Hello hello Photo: Attire Club
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Short Editorial: Hitchhiking on the Côte d’Azur
A
ttire Club has been on a voyage of exploration for over a decade. Throughout this expedition, it has kept a journal of everything that makes up the world of fashion, style, and... metafashion. We discovered amazing stories, made some impressive pictorials, and wrote compelling stories along the way. Maybe it’s time for the voyage to settle down and become a fullfledged celebration with rivers of champagne. Finally, we’re all about a champagne breakfast, a day at an antique bookstore, a museum visit, a drive along the Riviera, and a night at a casino or at home. Not to mention the velvet, diamonds, and gold. The Attire Club Team
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InCompanyt AttirehClub “To good men! May we know them, May we raise them, May we be them!”
Released by FRAQUOH AND FRANCHOMME Chief Executive Officer Dan Dimitriu Creative Director Iosif Trif Write letters to the editor iosif.trif@attireclub.org Visit our website attireclub.org Contact & advertising office@attireclub.org Address Based in Abu Dhabi, UAE & Vienna, Austria Telephone 0097 150 12 801 73 Follow us Facebook: facebook.com/attireclub
Twitter: twitter.com/attireclub
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Instagram: instagram.com/attireclub
Tumblr: attireclub.tumblr.com
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Old buttons Photo: Attire Club
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Contents
Winter 2021-22
EDITORIAL
Hitchhiking on the Côte d‘Azur Our 10-year party. u3 AC ARCHIVE Lèche-vitrines Hermès, the god of luxury u 10 FASHION FINDS Socks for outsiders Who wants to be with the our crowd? u 12 LOOKING BACK Maturity A few friends of our magazine share pictures of their younger selves and lessons they learned in time. u 14 ATTIRE CLUB‘S 10TH ANNIVERSARY A decade of AC Looking back to look forward. u 16 THE ESSENTIAL LUXURY What is the definition of luxury? What do you understand by luxury? u 18 HOW TO BE HAPPY IN THE WINTER Finding inner warmth in the cold season Winter is a time of reflection and understanding. How to make it work for you? u 20
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THE ATTIRE CLUB STYLE PORTFOLIO Eyes open Mind open u 22 GUIDE The guide to leather shoes Get your shoes, get your shoes! u 28 ATTIRE CLUB‘S SOCIO-AESTHETIC TRENDS Der Sonnenzyklus The world goes round... u 32 TRAVEL ALPHABET X for Xi‘an China at it‘s best. u 44 FROM THE ATTIRE CLUB ARCHIVE Sleigh time Quality time in Switzerland. u 45 GUIDE 4 common fashion mistakes men make in their 30s Are you getting it wrong?. u 46 HOW YOU LIKE THAT? Where do you buy from? Prices, aesthetics and double-edged swords. u 50 FASHION HISTORY The Journal des Luxus und der Moden One of the publications with which it all started... u 54
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CURRENT OBSESSIONS Quotes on beauty What do you have to say about beauty and style? u 56 CINEMA CULTURE 1: Black Mirror Is the abyss from our phones staring back at us? u 58 FASHION AND TECH Fashion brands in the metaverse: The next frontier? Fashion goes digital, once again. u 59 THE ATTIRE CLUB MOOD DIARY The sun Giver of power. u 60 STORIES FROM OUR WEB Instagram Snapshots Are you following our accounts? u 69 AC ARCHIVE Poppy What does a red field flower mean to you? u 72
Discover more awesomeness! For more greatness, use your phone or tablet to scan the QR codes leading to the websites of the brands and people from this issue. u 74
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Read the contents with a song!
QR CODE GLOSSARY
InCompanytAttirehClub
The Smart Magazine Attire Club is offering a complete men’s style, fashion and lifestyle experience, centered around the AC website. To discover our universe and over 1000 articles that will offer you the tools to develop your style, as well as fashion inspiration and cultural insights and to interact with us and be part of our community, visit us online.
attireclub.org +See our QR Code Glossary at the end of the magazine
AC
A R C H I V E
lèche-vitrines
Hermès
Hermès International S.A., or simply Hermès, is a French luxury design house established in 1837. It was founded by Thierry Hermès and it specializes in leather goods, lifestyle accessories, home furnishings, perfumery, jewelry, watches and ready-to-wear. Hermès was born in 1801 in Krefeld, Germany and, originally his business was a saddle company. Photo: The Hermès store in Sankt Moritz, Switzerland, by Attire Club
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From the Online Edition
Attire Club is the ultimate resource for complete style guides, fashion inspiration and cultural insights that provide you with the tools you need for a continuous style development. Geared towards the sharp modern man, Attire Club offers practical “you can do it, here’s how” articles that will make you not only look better, but also feel better and more confident. With a groundbreaking new concept, AC is the essential online publication that brings out the best in who you are.
FA S H I O N
Black sheep socks. Some people say that people who are “the black sheep of the family” are often those who see through everyone else’s lies and manipulation. Could that be true? Photo: Attire Club
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F I N D S
From AC’s Social Media
Attire Club is 360 degrees experience and our readers can stay updated with us on every major social media platform, where we share articles, photos and more!
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MATURITY lessons learned in time
To create, one must first learn a great deal about himself and how he interacted with himself and the world. This could be the definition of maturity: lessons learned that help to improve one’s self-awareness as a person and as a creator. We asked four of the magazine’s friends to explain what maturity means to them in their personal and professional lives.
John-Mikaël Flaux
Watchmaker and creator of horological machines, France At 30 years old, I must remain humbled by the experiences of my older peers. Life has pushed me in the direction of creative independence, a difficult but meaningful choice. Maturity is usually equated with responsibility in decision making, but also with the ability to overcome the naivety and desires that children can show: to simplify, we often oppose maturity to childhood. I think this is a mistake. After five years in the watch industry, I decided to leave the world of watches, in which I was no longer satisfied, to devote myself to the realization of automatons and exceptional watchmaking objects, the mechanics of art. A risky choice, my childhood dream... Today I contemplate with enthusiasm the glances of my customers shining when they become children again by discovering my achievements. What a gift! No regrets. I make objects that give childhood time available for grown-ups. For me, maturity is the ability to have a new and constructive look at reality, without naivety, but without erasing the look we had as children: simple, devoid of conformism and especially in the present moment.
Juan-Carlos Gordillo Fashion designer, Guatemala
Well, today, I can say that what I have learned is that I never abandoned my dreamer spirit and soul; which I had in my childhood. But something I learned over the years has been perhaps to be independent and responsible for myself; because every decision we make ends up affecting us in some way. Professionally, I have learned to be open and to have an attitude willing to discover new things because the world evolves every day. Professionally and personally, I have learned not to be naive and be careful not to fall into the hands of very cunning people who profit from many artists. For lack of maturity and experience, many of us are always exploited, by event organizers, pseudo Fashion Weeks and so on. They sell us an idea that they support us when the reality is that they are only interested in profiting from our illusions. Accepting and learning this reality is very hard, but maturity helps us understand things as they truly are. Finally, I want to say that we never reach complete maturity because we will always live new experiences. Which, with wisdom, helps us to continue cultivating maturity. Life, as a whole, is a school.
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Stefan Kudoke
Watchmaker, Germany In the Cambridge Dictionary, one of the definitions of maturity
is
“the
quality of behaving mentally and emotionally like an adult”. I wouldn’t claim this to be appropriate entirely for me yet, but there were certainly a couple of key lessons I learned during my childhood that influenced the way I behave and think today. The most imprinting experience for me was when I did high-performance cycling starting at the age of 7 until I was 17 years old. At a special school for sports, the focus was on physical and mental training as well as performance. When my friends and I went to the holiday camp, I took my bicycle with me to ride my daily training session. Now you could say: “what a poor boy”. But it taught me self-discipline, to be focused and persevering, set myself goals and work towards it but also to cope with setbacks and deal with it in a positive way. Today this attitude helps me in my daily life as an independent watchmaker. Maybe you could even say I wouldn’t have started it without this past experience. And cycling still is one of my greatest passions - after my wife and watchmaking, of course.
Richard Rozbora
Fashion designer, Slovakia After completing several years of study and successfully presenting my final collection in front of the evaluation committee, I realized reality stood at the crossroads of my future life. I had to face new challenges, and whenever the headlights went out after my fashion show was over, there was always a new stage coming. I often remember my childhood, and I am aware of the responsibility arising from the requirements to be more and more mature.
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Attire Club’s 10th Anniversary
A
ttire Club is very excited to celebrate its 10th an-
InCompany by Attire Club reached all continents and featured
niversary on 6 January 2022. Ten years ago, we
some amazing people in it. For example, we were surprised
started out on social media and then as a small
that Italian influencer Mariano Di Vaio wanted to be featured
blog. It wasn’t the very best thing in the world, but
on our second cover. Back then, the magazine was bi-annual,
we had a concept and a structure that got many people inter-
but then it became a quarterly publication. In its many issues,
ested, both as professionals as well as individuals who wanted
the magazine has covered great people from the fashion world:
to learn about fashion and style.
designers, models, innovators, writers, bloggers, and lots of influencers. Moreover, it has also featured people from the field
Soon enough, Attire Club started growing (with a lot of work
of arts, culture and sports: we cover music (both classical
and effort), and later, it became a go-to website for men’s style,
and pop), painting, car racing, acting and more. We coined the
fashion and lifestyle (and more).
“metafashion” term, which describes everything one does before and after getting dressed.
Our initial motto was “creating style out of fashion”, which is an idea that is rather mainstream today. Attire Club’s novelty re-
The amazing global approach and the varied themes, all some-
lied upon the idea that we were based on offering style guides.
how connecting, are what we are most excited about. We’ve
These were general articles that detailed the ins and outs of
featured people from Switzerland, Germany, France, Austria,
style, as they could be applied to any taste, preference, age, or
the UK, the USA, Israel, Kenya, Thailand, Japan, Egypt, Moroc-
budget. For example, one of our most-read articles was about
co, Kenya, New Zealand, Ukraine, Russia, Greece, Peru, Gua-
mixing and matching colors in various color schemes (ana-
temala, Italy, Portugal, Sweden, Slovakia, Serbia, Hungary and
log color combinations, complementary color combinations,
more. It’s quite a biglist, and we can barely believe that Attire
split-complementary color combinations, etc.). This type of
Club is such a global presence.
article drew massive crowds from around the world and, soon enough, Attire Club was read in 98% of the world’s countries.
Regular features in the magazine became the Fashion and
Attire Club was offering style guides of various complexities
Tech section, which detailed the latest in fabric innovation and
but was also commenting on fashion shows, reviewing brands
other advanced technologies used for clothing and accesso-
and products, and offering philosophical insights in the world
ries, but also the travel alphabet, where we looked at a place,
of fashion, appearance, culture, and style. Briefly put, it was
region, or country starting with each letter of the alphabet.
offering, as we are saying today, a complete style fashion and lifestyle experience for the modern man. Moreover, Attire Club
The issues of the magazine have a red string: there is always a
connected with many blogs and websites (it was the time of
connecting factor and often, there is also something that con-
the spike in fashion blogs) and even put out a short documen-
nects the issues with each other.
tary called We Are Fashion, which was a video collage of the thoughts of fashion bloggers from fashion bloggers all over
Along the way, in its 10 years of existence, Attire Club has also
the world. After becoming more established, being featured in
offered direct help to people from around the world with their
many publications, and collaborating with numerous brands,
outfits. From individuals who want to look their best to team
AC started to also present its Style Portfolios, which repre-
outfits, we’ve covered it.
sented our attempt at creating fashion. These were more of a visual statement and an arts and craft project rather than
After doing all of these things, what we are most happy for are
a complete fashion presentation, but they were well-received.
the millions of views we’ve received on our website and the
Trend forecasting also became included in our body of work,
many readers we have had. People’s appreciations, whether
and, if we may say so, the predictions were quite accurate.
per e-mail, in comments, or in person, are what tells us that we’re doing it right.
In 2015, Attire Club launched its print publication, InCompany by Attire Club. The magazine was designed to be something like
In the future, we hope to evolve and develop, but to make sure
our haute couture collection: a journal that presented many in-
that we always offer people amazing articles, images, and fea-
terviews, stunning photography, mood boards, and fascinating
tures.
features that documented our passions, the world at large and encouraged readers to be their best versions. The magazine soon became present in various boutiques and hotels (the St. Moritz Carlton and Badrutt’s Palace, two of Switzerland’s top hotels) and was a media partner for upscale fashion, watches, jewelry, sports, and technology events.
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The Essential
C
Luxury
oco Chanel said that “some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity.”
A clear definition of luxury may be found in the fact that it is characterized first and foremost as something rare but in high demand. Other luxury characteristics follow, but this is the key trait that distinguishes luxury. A spring of freshwater, for example, is a luxury on a desert island. Is Gabrielle’s quote still valid in this case? One could argue that it is unquestionably true. In what way? To begin, she claims that luxury is not poverty, but rather the polar opposite of vulgarity. Tastefulness or elegance are frequently used as synonyms for vulgarity (a superexplanation of something) and indecency. Coco links, or even superimposes, luxury with taste in this way. And it is somewhat correct. Taste and elegance transcend money, prestige, and social conditions. People are frequently placed in circumstances that are downright vulgar. Unfortunately, society as a whole rarely defines or describes these events as such. If luxury and taste are more or less synonymous, it can be concluded that taste is a valuable commodity. While it can be argued that back in the day, taste was more common, it can be claimed that today, taste and elegance are more lacking than ever. So, regardless of how we define luxury and what we honestly understand by it, we may assert that a new class of individuals with taste is out there, but it is becoming a small niche. Perhaps it has always been this way, or perhaps society is simply reordering, as some argue, but regardless, emotional and spiritual dignity and nobility reign supreme. In the end, it was the same questionable lady who said that “elegance is when the inside is as beautiful as the outside.” Text: Attire Club
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HOW TO
BE HAPPY IN THE WINTER
E
ach season has its own mental particularity. As the cal-
to realize who you want to be and figuring out the road that
endar changes, it’s not just the colors and the tempera-
needs to be taken to get to the person you are meant to be.
tures that change, but our emotional and spiritual states
We all know who we are and who we should be, if we dig deep
undergo changes as well. Spring is all about birth and rebirth,
enough. Maybe the Christmas star can help us do just that.
childhood and young age, the new, the trendy, and the fresh. Summer is dynamism; it is about optimism, easy living and
Once we have done our best to provide answers to these ques-
fun. Autumn is sober and agitated; it makes people ponder the
tions, we can start thinking about what we want to do and who
meaning of life and other dimensions. And winter... well, winter
we want to be right now. The year is not a circle; even though
is about slowing down, reducing life to the essential activities,
the months rotate because we never come back to the same
and contemplating - not so much the outside, but the inside.
month of the same year. In this sense, the year is a spiral; we come back to the sample place, but at a different, deeper level
The vast, white scenery of winter, which is similar to a blank
with more understanding of a given topic. This is why winter
canvas or a blank page, set us to write the next chapters and
can be a happy season. It’s time not necessarily to unwind, but
months of our lives. Winter is in some ways divided in two.
to think about what is essential and what we really need.
Firstly, there is the joyous holidays season, which is all about finding light in the darkness and joy in the cold. Then, after
So much of our daily lives consist of material things, which
January, it all slows down and forces us in a way to think about
are a very important part of life. The big mistake we too often
ourselves, the people around us, who we are, and what we do.
make is that we equate these things with happiness and think
1 January is, for many people, a blank canvas moment when
that the better off we are materially, the more fulfilled we will
they think not only about the year that’s past and about plan-
be. But, one could argue, this is not the case. Yes, the mate-
ning the agenda for the coming year, but also a time when they
rial world and physical well-being are important, but they are
think about who they are. Thinking about who you are does
only the basis for a truly authentic life. An authentic life is one
not mean simply psychoanalyzing yourself or trying to observe
that stems from our emotional state, from our inner peace and
yourself from the outside and from the inside, but also trying
fulfillment. This can be noticed in today’s consumption-based society, where people, while they always claim they want more things, better cars, and bigger homes that would make them happy, are still depressed and feel down. Maybe the reason is that we are not truly fulfilled. Maybe that’s what we’re supposed to learn from winter, namely to look at our naked souls and see what truly matters and what is truly worth building: is it a new car or is it a deep, serious relationship?
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THE ATTIRE CLUB STYLE PORTFOLIO EYES OPEN MIND OPEN 22 | InCompanytAttirehClub
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I HAVE THREE EYES TWO TO LOOK ONE TO SEE attireclub.org |
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NOBODY REALLY KNOWS ME attireclub.org |
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G U I D E
THE GUIDE TO LEATHER SHOES Text / Photos: Attire Club
T
oday leather is seen as a sign of quality and durabil-
high-quality dress shoes and is on the more expensive side.
ity, which is why many men always look for leather
On the not-very-expensive side, a very common type of leather
shoes when they go shopping. Leather can be incor-
used to make shoes is actually pigskin. Machines today can
porated in many ways in a shoe: for example, a shoe
work with it easily. Pigskin accepts dyes very easily, which
that has a leather sole will be a lot more resistant than a shoe
makes it great for producing colorful shoes. In case you did
with a non-leather sole. Of course, a shoe with a leather sole
not know, footballs are also made out of pigskin.
can get quite expensive. If you wish to stay between calfskin and full-grain side leather, We recommend that you invest in a quality pair of shoes (leath-
you can opt for kidskin. Kidskin (as weird as it might sound to
er sole or not) because leather is qualitative, durable, and com-
some) comes from young goats. It is mostly used for women’s
fortable. There is a massive difference between how your feet
shoes, but this does not mean that it won’t be an important
feel in a leather shoe and a synthetic shoe.
part of the male shoe industry as well. A very common type of kidskin leather is suede. This is created by using a range of
In this guide, we look at the different types of leathers, how to
chemical and natural treatments.
maintain them and at how to pick the right pair. And then, there are the more exotic leather types, obtained Types of leather
from a diverse palette of animals such as lizards, sharks, os-
One of the most high-end material used to make leather
trich or crocodiles. If you want to know more about these, we
shoes is calfskin. This one is very fine and usually reserved for
can tell you that crocodile leather originates from animals
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The second thing you can check is the sole and the heel. These need to be well stitched (we’d prefer) or glued. If the stitch seems to be sloppy or easily breakable, then it can very well be. When trying them on, make sure they fit you right. If they are a little too rough, don’t worry, they will adapt to your feet in time, so there is no need to buy a bigger or a smaller size in the hope that something will change. Quality shoes usually feel right from the beginning. Think of how to invest in the shoes. If you are buying your leather shoes in order to wear them a long time every day, you can opt for a shoe with a leather sole, since these can be repaired or replaced, so the shoes will last a long time, making the price/wear ratio really worth it. legally farmed in the South Pacific and South Africa. Generally, ostrich leather comes from farm-raised animals as well.
Caring for leather
Ostrich leather is usually soft and easy to shape. The leather
Making sure you take good care of your leather shoes will
made out of sharkskin is exceptionally resilient and resistant.
most likely make them last longer and look better.
Full-grain leather is the most natural leather you can wear since it undergoes minimal treatments. This leather is usually
It’s crucial to shine them after you wear them and not leave
made from cow skin, but it can also be obtained from other
them dirty, as the dirt that comes in contact with them will
animals. Because full-grain leather is not sanded, it can have
have an impact on them.
minor flaws, but it’s the most natural and breathable shoe one
Make sure your shoes are moisturized, polished, and water-
can wear. This leather uses the whole animal hide. Top-grain
proofed!
leather is also a great material that can go a long way. Its qual-
When they get wet, it’s best to let them air dry.
ity is incontestable, but it is not as durable as full-grain leather
Suede and nubuck shoes need special care. Don’t use prod-
because it uses just the top layers of the animal hide.
ucts made for general leather shoes. If they have spots, try using an art gum eraser. As an alternative, you can use undilut-
Choosing leather shoes
ed white vinegar on a soft cloth. The rule is to never rub suede.
Deciding to get a pair of leather shoes is a good choice in our
What you have to do is blot! After removing the stain, brush the
opinion. Here are some tips on what to look for in a leather
shoe and let it dry.
shoe while you’re at the store. Having these things in mind will help you always be on top of First, you can check if it’s too thin. If it looks like rice paper, it’s
your shoe game. Wearing good shoes will make you feel con-
probably very thin and can easily break. You want to feel that
fident and relaxed, which is, in the end, what style is actually
the shoe is strong, even though it’s flexible and comfortable.
all about.
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AC ’ S
S O C I O - A E S T H E T I C
T R E N D S
DER SONNENZYKLUS We are now living in a world where we cannot ignore anymore the fact that, whether we like it or not, we are extremely connected to one another. In this sense, having this realization is no longer enough, we need to make an emotional shift into how we perceive each other. The main problem with this situation is that openness and care is often seen as having to simply come from one side. However, if we want to have a good future, we need to all reach out to each other. More division is on the rise and, at the same time, more connection. In terms of socio-aesthetic trends, we, as a world, will take cues from magic, spiritualism and astrology and will cherish nature very much. We are now in a moment when everything has to change, let’s establish what we want to create! 32 | InCompanytAttirehClub
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HANDMADE THINGS There are many new ways of doing things. We now have amazing materials, new technologies, which means that there is a lot of new potential in the world. However, this does not mean that the handmade world will disappear - it will only take off. The key for those who want to create is to discover what they like and how to use these skills and, more importantly, interests to build something fantastic.
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WHAT GIVES
Meditation, healthy boundaries, prayer and other things should be the daily rituals we take in order to detoxify our minds and, slowly, the world around us. The change in the world can be a moment to “clean the house”.
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GENERATION ALPHA By 2025, the number of Gen Alphas (people born between 2010 and 2025) is expected to reach nearly 2 billion. Despite the fact that they are the youngest generation, their culturally diverse and hyper-digital nature is already shaping trends, creating new markets, and positioning them as household decision-makers.
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TALENTS Whether your talent is to make people laugh or to create a robot, following it could make a great positive impact on the world. Maybe it is only a hobby, but, who knows, it could bring someone a great benefit. Few, but valuable clients could be the next thing in society.
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BROWNS & EARTH TONES Could we be witnessing a romantic rural revolution in the near future? Earth, nature, and organic beauty may be the key trends of the future.
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UNINHIBITED CRAFTSPEOPLE How do the things around you make you feel? Do you feel more at ease as a consequence of the things you have, or more inhibited and odd? A new spiritual release will make people, especially those who create things to be more uninhibited and to come together.
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CHARACTER TOUCHES The objects we will use in the future won’t be as impersonal as the ones we have today. Mass production will still be a thing, but there will likely be a move towards things that have a personal note.
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GOOD, OLD CLASSICS The slowness of craft techniques lends majesty and depth to design. Objects and textiles of the future should be inspected for the possibility of fine details and finishing, such as braiding, basket weaving, engraving, painting, lace making, embroideries, and more.
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E le stelle Sono sempre più belle E tutto brila E tutto scintilla Non sei romantica Ma questo: questo e l’amore Questa! questo e l’amore E non fa niente! La telefonata Sono innamorata Malata per te Non capisco più niente Non vedo più la gente E non fa niente And the stars Are always more beautiful And everything shines And everything sparkles You are not romantic But this: this is love This! This is love And it’s okay! The phone call I’m in love Sick for you I don’t understand anything anymore I don’t see people anymore And it doesn’t matter Everything is blue We like it better I think I, I think I Love you! From the song Italove by Emmanuelle
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E tutto blu Ci piace di piu I think I, I think I Love you!
Your Style Is Worth Your While
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T R AV E L
A L P H A B E T
r o f X Xi’an Text: Attire Club
Xi’an (read Shee-Anh) is the capital of the Shaanxi Province, and the third most populous city in Western China, after Chongqing and Chengdu, as well as the most populous city in Northwest China. It lies near the confluence of the Wei and Feng Rivers. Xi’an (previously Chang’an), an imperial historic town and eastern departure point on the Silk Road, has long been an important crossroads for people from all across China, Central Asia, and the Middle East, and hence a hub of many ethnic identities and religious beliefs. Here are some incredible facts about it!
XI’AN, known as Chang’an for much of its history, is one of the
ACCORDING TO A 2020 CENSUS, the city’s total population
Chinese Four Great Ancient Capitals, having held the position
was 12,952,907 people.
under numerous of China’s most important dynasties. THERE IS A BIG MUSLIM COMMUNITY in Xi’an. Many of the city’s Muslims run stores or restaurants, which are a big draw
adopted in 1369 under the early Ming dynasty.
for tourists.
XI’AN IS PRESENTLY China’s second most popular tourist des-
THE EAST ASIAN MONSOON influences the climate in Xi’an,
tination.
which has a temperate climate.
THE CITY IS THE STARTING POINT of the Silk Road and home
THE BEST TIMES TO VISIT THE CITY are April to June and
to Emperor Qin Shi Huang’s Terracotta Army, both of which are
September to October.
UNESCO World Heritage sites. ACCORDING TO THE NATURE INDEX, Xi’an is one of the top 40 cities in the world for scientific research production. XI’AN IS CURRENTLY a sub-provincial municipality with 11 districts and two counties.
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Read this article with a song!
THE NAME OF THE CITY, which means “Western Peace”, was
From the Attire Club Archive
Sleigh Time Situated in the Upper Engadine at 1856m, the world class Swiss resort St. Moritz has an above-average number of sunny days, namely over 300 each year. This is why, in 1930, the Sun itself was chosen as the resort’s symbol. St. Moritz has often been a pioneer, for example, the first electric Christmas light shone here in 1878, in 1889 the first golf tournament in the Alps took place here and in 1935 one of the first ski lifts in Switzerland was in operation. It’s a magnificent place where people come together, practice sports, have fun and enjoy the views of the magnificent Alps. Photo: Attire Club
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E V E NT S
4 COMMON FASHION MISTAKES MEN MAKE IN THEIR 30S Text: Attire Club
M
en in their 30s are expected to dress better than
One solution could be to wear brogues or casual loafers. An-
they did in their 20s. And that’s something to
other option is to wear upscale sneakers that are obviously
be understood, since in your 30s you are more
far better than your running shoes. Swap your gym shoes for
experienced and mature than you were before.
designer sneakers. Givenchy, for instance, have a great selec-
Expectations regarding your appearance rise along with age,
tion of sneakers that can fit all sorts of styles, whether you’re
income, experience and seniority at work. However, dressing
trying to nail the streetwear chic look, or you want to pair them
your age in your thirties can be a challenge, especially when
with a nice pair of tapered chinos, a white buttoned shirt, and
there aren’t too many clothing options that cater specifically to
a solid colored blazer.
this demographic. Before you go and revamp your wardrobe, here is a look at 4 common fashion mistakes men make in
If you aren’t sure where to look, you can find Givenchy sneak-
their thirties that you don’t want to make yourself. This way,
ers through luxury online retailers like SSENSE. They have a
you can budge some pitfalls you’ll find along the way. We’ll
wide variety of sneakers which range from urban street sneak-
explain exactly why these are mistakes and give you a few tips
ers to jaw sneakers. Brown and black jaw sneakers resemble
on what to do instead.
work boots but are much more comfortable. Black and light sneakers may pass for loafers in some situations. Branded lux-
Wearing grungy shoes
ury sneakers won’t be mistaken for the same shoes you play
Tennis shoes and sneakers are for your morning jog or your
in, either. And you want a clear distinction between your work
evening at the gym; they are rarely suitable for work anymore.
attire and what you wear elsewhere.
Also, cheap sneakers detract from your polo shirt and khakis, and they make you look unprofessional. This problem is compounded if they’re dirty or worn.
Wearing the same shirts everywhere A man in his thirties should save his t-shirts for the weekend.
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This doesn’t mean you can’t wear a t-shirt. It means you need
30’s style, and look both elegant and comfortable. The fabric,
to wear a clean, elegant t-shirt if you wear one at all.
pattern, and color of the blazer will also make a huge difference.
On the flipside, you don’t have to have a lot of variety in your wardrobe. You can have several black or blue cotton shirts
If you want to build your collection, go for a soft colored cor-
that all look the same. Just rotate through them so that they
duroy blazer, a navy one, and one made of woolen tweed, and
don’t look worn out. Invest in quality clothes that won’t wear
don’t be afraid to play with original patterns and bright colors.
out quickly, and don’t wear items with stains or rips. However, you shouldn’t wear a sweatshirt and hoodies to work, period.
Not paying attention to detail
Graphic t-shirts may become less and less suited as well.
Don’t make the mistake of ignoring the little details. For example, you can ruin the look if you wear a bad watch or tennis
Making mistakes with suits
shoes with an expensive suit. You’ll come off as lazy or inex-
A man in his thirties should have at least one good suit. How-
perienced if you don’t match patterns in your suit, shirt and tie.
ever, you can do more if you have a mix of pressed pants, jackets, dress shirts and ties. Focus on buying quality suits that fit
Choose matching cufflinks and belts. Don’t wear a hat that
you. Have them tailored or fitted if necessary, because ill-fit-
conflicts with the rest of the outfit unless you take it off when
ting high-class clothing comes off wrong. Consider having a
you arrive at work. On the other hand, you want to wear little
black, navy and blue suit so that you have a variety of choices.
accessories like watches, belts and cufflinks that demonstrate
You could mix and match fabric weights – then you’re covered
understated class, not bright and garish. Think tweed patterns
in both warm and cool months. Note that you can wear sweat-
in a suit instead of pinstripes.
ers under a sports coat to keep warm. If you live in a colder area, consider owning at least one good wool overcoat that
Your wardrobe should shift as you get older, and reflect your
complements all of your suits.
growing sense of identity. If you want to have a positive attitude, it’s important to look sharp and sophisticated even when
If you’re not that much into suits, you should at least consider
you’re wearing business casual outfits.
adding blazers to your rotation. Blazers are quintessential to
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HOW YOU LIKE THAT
50 | InCompanytAttirehClub
How much for the fashion in the mirror? Over the last few years, we’ve seen more and more things unravel and a lot of secrets starting to unveil in society. As usual, technology is the driver of these discoveries. The rapid spread of accessible internet around the world and the easy international shopping process available to so many people has made a lot of illusions crush, but it has also opened the gate to new, heightened quality fashion products and objects in general. Decades ago, quality and price went hand in hand. If you wanted something of great quality, you were supposed to pay quite the sum for it. Quality meant quality: you could buy a coat, a jacket, or a belt and make sure you would be able to wear it for years if not even decades. As industrialization grew and shopping became more democratic, many brands started offering products that were of low quality. This is understandable, but another phenomenon, which is a lot stranger, happened as well. As luxury brands clearly distanced themselves from mainstream brands, a new category of brands appeared. These brands can be called “accessible luxury” or “middle street luxury.” The idea is that many brands offer their products as being of great quality and even luxury (there is a whole other conversation about what “luxury” actually means), even though these products are mass-produced and only labeled as being a part of the collection of a brand that invests a lot in simply creating an image. This is something that worked until a few years ago. Brands would create a great image with a modern logo and a superb story and then they would buy
The Attire Club Experiment Story
mass-produced items from websites like AliExpress or Aliba-
Image top: Red sneakers bought from AliExpress, photographed by
ba, slap their logo on them and mark up the prices 50 times.
Attire Club Image middle: A screenshot of the $15 price on AE Image bottom: The same shoes (or maybe the same design, but better production quality) sold for $110.
Technology now allows us to track these products far easier. With the Google lens or a knowledgeable search on AliExpress, anyone can find the original product. And that is a good thing for multiple reasons. Firstly, AliExpress is a fantastic website, as it allows people to skip various steps in buying something. Secondly, the fact that cheap products sold as high-end items are so easy to track forces real quality creators, especially artisans and creators who make items with their hands to up their game. Consumers can now also tell the difference between a mass-produced item with a fancy logo and a real original and unique product, especially as brands are adopting blockchain technologies to authenticate their products. What this means is that there is a whole new market for real quality and uniqueness. On the one hand, as daily consumers, we need products like the ones we can find on AliExpress, but we also need more special items. In a way, one feels tricked when they are offered a clothing item as being a fancy thousand-dollar piece, only to then find it online for five dollars. The watch industry is highly aware of such practices and, over the last year, there has been a movement (get it?) of stirring away from lower-end watches sold as masterpieces. There is, of course, a place for cheap watches, but that does not mean we should kid ourselves into believing that a common fashion watch is paramount in watchmaking. Value and aesthetics: A double-edged sword This phenomenon raises an interesting conversation about The Attire Club Experiment Story Image top: Colorful sneakers bought from AliExpress, photographed by Attire Club Image middle: A screenshot of the AE price Image bottom (2): The same shoe sold by two different stores
aesthetics. What we need to ask ourselves when it comes to mass-made items bought on the cheap, labeled, and sold expensively is what our aesthetic experience is about. How many of us can actually appreciate something that looks good? Does something that looks good have to be expensive? The answer seems
to be clearly not. Also, it raises the age-old question of how much power branding actually have, given that we seek status so much that we are willing to pay such big sums for a stamp of approval? Who makes the actual product? Who is the actual innovator? Is a knock-off worth anything at all? These are all questions that we should ask ourselves right now. Many people have lived their lives consuming only quality items, and this lifestyle may just make a come-back. In the end, there should probably be a better balance between high craft and products made just for short use. This would help us declutter not only our closets, but our minds as well.
FA S H I O N
H I S TO RY
The Journal des Luxus und der Moden
T
he “Journal des Luxus und der Moden” (“Journal of Luxury
and Fashions”) was a German fashion periodical that ran
from 1786 to 1827. It is regarded as one of the world’s first fashion publications. The magazine was preceded by the Cabinet des Modes, which became the world’s first fashion magazine one year prior, and was followed by the “Journal des Luxus und der Moden” (17861827) in Germany and “Giornale delle Dame e delle Mode di Francia” (1786-1794) in Italy, which became the world’s second and third fashion magazines, respectively. Because the French fashion magazine stopped during the French Revolution, its two foreign replacements began to play a significant position in Europe’s fashion journalism for numerous years, when the branch was still in its infancy.
Left: Gentleman in Vienna Right: Women’s fashion from 1795
54 | InCompanytAttirehClub
Read this article with a song!
(1815)
LievArts.com
Four Seasons Art
t n e r r u C s n o i s s Obse It can be said that beauty is the thing that defines fashion and separates it from the craft of clothes making, even though, even the simplest garment has an ideology behind it and is based on an aesthetic concept.
QUOTES ON BEAUTY
Throughout history, many artists, philosophers and other thinkers have pondered on what beauty is and what role it plays both in the life of the individual and of the community at large. This is why we have put together a collection of great quotes about what beauty is, its function and more!
over to find the beautiful, we “Though we travel the world or we find it not.” – Ralph Waldo Emerson
must carry it with us,
“Remember that the most beautifu l things in the world are the most useless; peacocks and lilies for instance.” – John Ruskin
s because they make them
ul place “All gardeners live in beautif – Joseph Joubert
so.”
“I don’t like standard beauty – there is no beauty without strangene ss.” – Karl Lagerfeld 56 | InCompanytAttirehClub
eauty.” b s i e c n a “Exuber Blake – William
“Order is the shape upon wh ich beauty depends.” – Pearl S. Buck
ing the mind.”
t step of purify e world, is the firs
ty in th “Looking at beau – Amit Ray
“There is no beauty in sadness.” – Katerina Stoykova Klemer
t a s e t o u q e r o Read m At tire Club.org
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C I N E M A
C U LT U R E
1 Black Mirror
“If you gaze into the abyss, the abyss gazes also into you” - F. Nietzsche
B
Text: Attire Club lack Mirror is a well-known TV show that has captivat-
that happenings in real life resembled a Black Mirror episode.
ed audiences from all around the world in recent years.
This suggests that, on some level, people are noticing that
It tells a distinct story in each episode, imagining a dys-
the show is, in fact, about our current times, and that what
topic near future. The stories focus on where current technol-
is shown there is really a highly fictionalized and dramatized
ogy will take us and are frequently depressing and overwhelm-
version of it, with certain exceptions, of course.
ing, highlighting the idea that technology will cause us to lose our humanity.
When discussing BM, a simple imagination exercise can be performed. Consider presenting the world of today to some-
When watching Black Mirror, one is left wondering what the se-
one from the 1960s, from politics to technology and entertain-
ries’ goal is. Any cultural product serves
ment. What would they think? They would
a purpose in the culture in which it is
probably be as frightened and outraged
created and fills a specific need. A large
about Black Mirror as we are about social
product like this show would not be cre-
media and everything that goes on there,
ated in vain. Furthermore, it would not be
reality shows, constant news flashes,
as successful if it did not strike a chord
and outlandish conduct. To think about it,
with the audience.
our grandparents’ generation (born in the 1940s and 1950s) would have thought it
When watching Black Mirror, one may
was unacceptable to share private imag-
feel anxious because it appears to de-
es from their photo albums with the rest
pict society’s near future. And, certainly,
of the world, which is something we now
it may be claimed that the show takes
do all the time.
the most recent social notions, such as isolation, social media, AI, and so on,
Finally, one can question himself, “What
and pushes them to a potential conclu-
is the message of Black Mirror?” Accord-
sion. At the same time, one can’t help
ing to Marshall McLuhan, for every tech-
but question whether we aren’t already
nical breakthrough, we lose a certain ap-
in that scenario in many ways. On first
titude. Build the car, and we will walk or
viewing, the second episode of the se-
ride horses less; invent GPS, and you will
ries, in which people pedal to earn a form
lose your capacity to orient yourself in
of money that they may spend mostly
place, and so on. Do we lose our humani-
on digital products and, at most, on par-
ty in a world dominated by technology? If
ticipation in a false talent show, seems
that’s the case, shouldn’t we obtain other
highly alarming. However, with closer
benefits that we might not have had oth-
examination, one will realize that the vir-
erwise?
tual city’s lifestyle is remarkably similar to many people’s lives throughout the
The show’s purpose, perhaps, is to provoke thought about the dangers and pitfalls of conformity and
small spaces in slums, work in factories doing routine jobs 10
comfort, as well as about how we can protect our spiritual
hours a day, only to spend their entire salary on basic necessi-
essence in a world where technology is the norm and the “re-
ties and the occasional smartphone, where they consume me-
quired” lifestyle. The title of the show can also be an indica-
dia and the occasional app upgrade, and dream of becoming
tion: our phones and other screens all look like black mirrors,
famous. Suddenly, the world of BM doesn’t seem so far away.
devices said to be used in dark magic. At the same time, in A Space Oddisey
The same may be said about the show’s social media scores
from 1968, the block that had seem-
and other seemingly outlandish notions.
ingly brought intelligence (and other things) to humankind also resembled
Over the last few years, you may have heard someone suggest
58 | InCompanytAttirehClub
a massive black screen.
Read this article with a song!
world. If you consider that millions of people nowadays live in
FA S H I O N
A N D
T E C H
FASHION BRANDS IN THE METAVERSE: THE NEXT FRONTIER Text: Attire Club
T
he term “fashion technology” has captivated the world’s
founder’s 200th birthday, the label created a mobile game
attention over the previous five years. The fashion
called Louis the Game. The game is not your ordinary mobile
technology movement, which peaked in 2016-2017,
game. It has 30 NFTs and chronicles the life of a digital char-
produced thousands of meetup groups and tech firms (also
acter. It should be noted that these tokens are not available
known as fashion tech or ‘fashtech’).
for public purchase and are instead used as part of the game’s collection.
Now, the next big thing in fashiontech is using the Metaverse as a new platform. Fashion companies have invested between
Balenciaga was the first fashion house to collaborate with
1.6 and 1.8 percent of their revenues in technology by 2021.
Fortnite, a popular online game that has gained popularity due
That proportion is predicted to climb to between 3.0 and 3.5
to its VR concerts. Given its creative director’s fresh ideas,
percent by 2030. Many people believe that technology may
Balenciaga recommended four different products from its
provide a competitive advantage in customer-facing activities,
huge collection to be sold as avatar skins and accessories.
where companies have traditionally focused, and, increasingly,
It produced a computer character known as Doggo, who was
in operations. Robotics, advanced analytics, and in-store ap-
completely outfitted in a Balenciaga outfit.
plications may assist in streamlining processes, enhance sustainability, and offer an excellent customer experience. A part
Nike has released numerous gorgeous pieces that are avail-
of that budget seems to go to MV applications.
able for purchase but cannot be worn in real life. They are among the virtual tokens made available when Nike acquired
Some brands have already established a considerable pres-
the footwear brand RTKFT.
ence in the Metaverse. RTKFT was founded in 2020 and has already shown outstandBlankos Block Party, Burberry’s first non-fungible token, was
ing results, collaborating with crypto artist Fewocious in 2021
created in collaboration with Mythical Games. Therefore, Burb-
to sell 600 pairs of shoes as NFTs, amassing a total of 3.1
erry built a virtual world of vinyl toys known as Blanks for any
million dollars in less than seven minutes.
game collector who enjoys the Metaverse. Tommy Hilfiger made his first foray into the Metaverse by colGucci has created The Gucci Vault Discord, which is designed
laborating with Nintendo’s Animal Crossing New Horizons, a
to drive and foster open discussions on the future of the
2020 social simulation game. Later, the company collaborated
Metaverse. It is expected that this will be the brand’s official
with the well-known gaming platform Roblox to launch its vir-
server, hosting its creative area and allowing the past, pres-
tual clothing collection for users’ avatars.
ent, and future to coexist together. Gucci creatives will also be able to explore new digital places and help filter some of
Dior collaborated with Ready Player Me, a metaverse avatar
the House’s vintage items and top designers through the vault.
platform, to provide its customers with an interactive branded
Gucci has also joined Superplastic, which specializes in rare
experience by allowing them to create digital avatars and pur-
vinyl toys and antiques. They collaborated to create the Su-
chase an exclusive Dior scent.
perGucci- beautiful and one-of-a-kind CryptoJanky NFTs and ceramic sculptures. These NFTs extensively use the brand’s
Luxury fashion businesses are entering the Metaverse, a plat-
distinct patterns, symbols, and icons. Gucci collaborated with
form that has assisted them in increasing sales and popularity.
Roblox, one of the most popular gaming platforms, in 2021 to
This initiative has been a success and based on current trends,
display Gucci handbags, headgear, and sunglasses in avatars.
we may expect additional fashion industry giants to partici-
The Gucci Garden location was open for two weeks, allowing
pate in the Metaverse.
collectors and gamers to purchase memorabilia and various rare Gucci items. This demonstrated to the world the size of
And, get this: To make it even more “meta”, this article was
the Metaverse and its impact on various businesses.
written in part by an AI!
Louis Vuitton, like Gucci, is deeply interested in and has embraced the Metaverse. On the birthday of the company’s
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THE ATTIRE CLUB MOOD DIARY Our mood board as a visual journal 60 | InCompanytAttirehClub
THE SUN The sun, according to the alchemist, signifies the perfection of all matter on any level, including the mind, spirit, and soul. The symbol’s relationship with both gold and the divine appears to be as old as alchemy.
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Sun rising over the city from Splendor Solis Salomon Trismosin (?), 1582 (?)
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Vädersolstavlan Urban målare, Jacob Heinrich Elbfas, 1535, 1636 (?)
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Olive Trees with Yellow Sky and Sun Vincent Van Gogh, 1889
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A Beaming Sunset Wojciech Weiss, 1901-1902
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Red Sunset on the Dnieper Arkhip Ivanovich Kuindzhi, 1905 .
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LievArts.com
Seeing Sounds
Stories from our web
Make sure to like, share and subscribe @attireclub
Check out some highlights of things we liked and shared on our IG stories feed!
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AC
A R C H I V E
The red poppy flower represent consolation, remembrance and death. At a time of great dispair, it is an occurance that marks a moment.
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Photo: Attire Club
SUBSCRIPTION
Subscribe to InCompany by Attire Club to make sure you receive your beautiful print copy of each edition. With a focus on quality and sophistication, InCompany by Attire Club magazine explores the fashion world in an original and creative manner. Featuring interviews with creative talents, style guides, stunning photography and carefully curated products and travel recommendations, the goal of the magazine is to present more than the typical fashion publication. Capturing a compelling image of the fashion world, the magazine covers both the independent and mainstream areas of fashion and from the very ethnic and old-school to the latest hightech innovations. Go to levolny.mozello.com to buy the subscription for just €90 (about $102) or just scan the QR code on the left.
QR Code Glossary Discover the websites featured in this issue!
John-Mikaël Flaux u john-mikael-flaux.com Page 14
Juan-Carlos Gordillo u juancarlosgordillo.com Page 14
Kudoke u kudoke.eu Page 15
Rozbora Couture u instagram.com/rozboracouture Page 15
Liev Arts u lievarts.com Pages 55, 68
Read this article with a song!
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Always Addressing Power Dressing
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See you online! attireclub.org facebook.com/attireclub twitter.com/attireclub pinterest.com/attireclub instagram.com/attireclub attireclub.tumblr.com vk.com/attireclub
British Library digitised image from page 205 of “The Nobility of Life, its graces and virtues, portrayed in prose and verse by the best writers”. Selected and edited by L. Valentine in 1869.
IChAC