Editorial: Onstage and Backstage
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hen style and fashion are discussed from a psychological or even philosophical point of view, the idea of identity is what comes up very quickly.
As psychology became very fashionable during the late 1990s and 2000s, it’s the concept of identity is what is being discussed now by many people from around the world. We are bombarded with discussions on who we really are; which makes one wonder whether there is a disconnect between who we are and who we want to be. There are many reasons why this could be the case, but probably the deepest reason for this disconnect is the fact that many people describe their identity by using one shallow description of only one dimension of their being. Identity is far more than that: it is what we use to operate in the world, our systems of morality and decision making, our emotions, our wants, our fears and our desires. In other words, it is what makes you – you, a functional person. This toolkit that we operate with in the world is the backstage of our selves: it is what is not revealed to the public (maybe just to some people) and represents the meta-characteristics that create what others see “onstage”. The backstage (the backend) and the onstage (the frontend) of a person are different entities that continuously interlay and influence each other. Our inside often determines our outside, but our outside also determines our inside more than we’d think. This is why fashion and our personal sartorial choices make for such an important aspect of life. Fashion is the connector between our backstage and our onstage. It is the shell of our inner being and reflects our inspiration, our emotions and our desires. The two do not necessarily compete, and therefore we should not embark on a race as to which one we should attend first. Because they are separate, complementary entities, it is best to be in high control of the different sides of your identity, as this way you will be able to navigate the world in the best way possible for you. The Attire Club Team 3
InCompanytAttirehClub Released by FRAQUOH AND FRANCHOMME Chief Executive Officer Dan Dimitriu Creative Director Iosif Trif Write letters to the editor iosif.trif@attireclub.org Visit our website attireclub.org Contact & Advertising office@attireclub.org Address Leopoldsgasse 4/16 1020 Vienna Austria Telephone 0097 150 12 801 73 Follow us Facebook: facebook.com/attireclub
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Contents Editorial:
Onstage and Backstage Our identity in its dual form. u3 In Their Own Words: Modeling Agency Manager Mitch Brown A look from the inside at one of the world’s roughest fields. u 10 In Their Own Words Model Marco Varga From soccer player to model to blogger. u 14 Style Guide: Habits that Will Keep Your Clothes and Accessories in Shape Making the best of your items. u 18 In Their Own Words: Model JosÊ Falcone From the Amazon to the world. u 22
Hola Amigos! A collection of captivating images from the latino world. u 26
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YListen to a song with the cotents!
Travel and Culture:
Current Obsessions: Porsche Edition Welcome to the world of Porsche! u 38 Secrets of Fashion: In Their Own Words: Menswear Blogger Karamjing Singh Maniani Men’s fashion with a turban. u 40 Travel and Culture: Travel Alphabet: E for Estonia The land of the most supermodels / capita u 46 Style Guide: How to Match Your Tie to Your Pocket Square Making a good combo. u 52 In Their Own Words: Filmmaker Hadi Moussally Mixing fashion, photography and film. u 56 AC Fashion Notebook: Updated Fashions From classic paintings to your closet. u 60 In Their Own Words: Fashion designer Gosha Altshuler Come on up, Eastern Europe! u 64 Fashion World: Sven-Holger Inspired by St. Moritz. u 68
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Style Guide: 10 Advantages of Leather Why leather is unbeatable. u 70 Forecast: Rethinking Luxury How brands will redefine luxury in the near future. u 74 Fashion Ahead: The first 3D printed at home collection by Danit Peleg Do it yourself. u 78 Fashion and Technology: In Their Own Words: Entrepreneur & Innovator Frank Wautier Coming up in style: Wetsuits made with the latest technology. u 80 The Attire Club Mood Diary: Our Moodboard as a Visual Journal The Jewel Book. u 84 Runway Report: The NAT Atelier AW 17-18 Collection Structure and dynamism. u 94 QR Code Glossary: Discover the Brands Presented in This Issue Use your phone or tablet to go right to the brands and blogs you've seen in this issue of the diary. u 96
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InCompanytAttirehClub
The Smart Magazine Attire Club is offering a complete men’s style, fashion and lifestyle experience, centered around the AC website. To discover our universe and over 800 articles that will offer you the tools to develop your style, as well as fashion inspiration and cultural insights and to interact with us and be part of our community, visit us online.
attireclub.org See our QR Code Glossary at the end of the magazine
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IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Modeling Agency Director
Mitch Brown
Mitch Brown is the owner of the Michigan-based Mint Modeling Agency.
With 10 years of experience as an international model himself and also having worked as scout, agent and photographer, Mitch is an insider of many facets of the modeling world. Having worked with brands such as Vogue, Giorgio Armani, L’Officiel and Gap, Mitch has a lot to bring to the table when it comes to launching new model’s careers. Discover our interview covering modeling, his past and current career and his advice for upcoming models.
“Modeling is a cut throat industry”
Can you describe what your work entails?
Mitch Brown: The main purpose of my agency is to scout, develop, place and book models in Michigan, around the United States and internationally. My goal is to have two different divisions, an international board as well as a local board. I ultimately am a full service agency as well as a mother agency. I will be scouting for local models to book work within Michigan as well as place and manage careers in larger markets. How did you come to create a model agency? MB: I have 10 years of experience in the industry. I myself was an international model. I worked in 10 coun-
tries during my career and was signed to 30 agencies. On top of being a model, I have scouted for agencies, I have been an agent in New York City and most recently I have gotten into portrait and fashion photography. You could say I have a pretty good understanding of how the industry works and I finally decided to start my own agency called Mint Model Management. I relocated back to my hometown of Grand Rapids after being away for so many years and am hoping to make an impact in my home state. How did your own work as a model influence the way you work with other models as an agent?
to dealing with other models as an agent. I have lived and breathed what a model does. I have done photoshoots and commercials myself. I have been to countless castings. I have done the runway shows in New York, Milan and Asia. I myself have been in the models shoes already, and I believe I have valuable first-hand experience and advice to give to new talent. What are you looking for in a model? MB: Someone unique. Someone who isn’t just a pretty face, but someone who has character and a great attitude.
MB: I definitely believe I have an upper hand when it comes 11
Is it harder for a model to make it in the business in Michigan or is it better to start out or be based in another place than New York or Los Angeles? MB: Having an agency in Michigan is a great tool to get signed to bigger agencies in larger markets. I started out with a mother agency in Detroit and they assisted in getting me contracts in NYC and all over the world. It is not easy for people to pack up everything, move to a big city and hope they will get signed to a top agency. Having someone local to help you and place you is easier and definitely more comforting and assuring. Michigan does have work for models. There are models who do it only part time for some extra money, while they pursue school or their careers who aren’t interested in going to New York or Miami or abroad. I am catering to these models also to bring a fresh new agency to Grand Rapids for our local clients to work with.
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What is your advice for people who want to get into modeling? MB: Modeling is a cut throat industry. Keep learning, listening and following advice from industry professionals. Follow your passion and don’t give up!
Thank you!
Discover Mitch’s agency at mintmodelmgmt.com
Red, Yellow and Blue And Soon You Will Have Written A Quite Good Hai-Ku attireclub.org
IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Model
Marco Varga
Marco Varga is a Swiss model who, before becoming a model played football (soccer) as a professional. After beginning his higher education studies, Marco started working as a model after being discovered in the streets of Zürich. As of September 2016, he also opened a blog, where he shares his outfits and has gained a strong following, with over 30000 followers on Instagram alone. Discover our interview with Marco on style, blogging and fashion icons.
“There are some guys with a nice sense of style such as (...) Mariano Di Vaio”
How did you become a model?
What do you personally like to wear?
Marco Varga: I got discovered in the streets of Zürich.
MV: Depends on my daily mood, but sneakers with a nice suit is always a favorite look of mine.
Did you relation to clothes and styling change once you became a model? MV: Not at all, it actually changed when I started my apprenticeship and started earning my own money. Who are your role models in terms of style and fashion? MV: Hmm… I do not have that one idol, but in my opinion there are some guys with a nice sense of style such as magic fox in terms of street style and Mariano Di Vaio in terms of suits as an example.
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What can you tell us about your blog?
MV: Since I started, I have only blogged about my fashion looks; I will maintain this for sure, but I also added a new with lifestyle / travel section. A very interesting topic in my opinion, and I think everyone likes to discover new places as I do. Personally, I love sharing these kinds of moments.
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What are you obsessed with, fashion- and otherwise? MV: At the moment, I am definitely obsessed with fitness and healthy food. Since my trip to Thailand, I realized how bad my eating habits were‌ Since I started living healthier I am not that tired anymore and have more power throughout the day which is very important for my education and work. Thank you!
See more of Marco’s looks on his website at marcovarga.com
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STYLE GUIDE
Habits that Will Keep Your Clothes and Accessories in Shape
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n the AttireClub. org website, we often discuss about how important it is to invest in high-quality clothes and accessories. High-quality pieces usually feature better craftsmanship, a better aesthetic and are made to last for a longer time, as they are mostly made from good materials. Of course, having good pieces does not guarantee you that your clothes and accessories will look well even a long time after you have bought them. The way you handle them will have a big impact on how they will look in time. And you have all the interest to show off your things for as long of a time as possible. In this guide, discover some easy-to-do tricks to keep your clothes and accessories in shape for a longer time. 18
Photos: Attire Club
1. Let your neck 2. Put shoe ties hang trees in your shoes After you have spent some time wearing a tie, when you take your tie off, don’t throw it on the armchair in the corner. This might sound like the last thing you want to do after a long day, but hanging your tie on a tie rack or on a bar on your closet’s door or rolling it and placing it in a tie box will make it look better for a longer time. If you throw your tie on the floor on a sofa, it might get wrinkles and it’s rare for those wrinkles to go away easily. This is why you should always take a moment and hang your tie properly. Don’t forget to untie it first, otherwise, because of the knot; it will get a lot of wrinkles.
To maintain your shoes in shape, whenever you take them off, put shoe trees in them. This will make them look straight and wrinkle-free for a longer time or at least it will reduce the number of wrinkles your shoes would otherwise get. If you find yourself in a place where you don’t have shoe trees, stuffing them with newspapers or paper, will do the job quite well temporarily. In the long run, use shoe trees though.
3. Don’t put knitwear on hangers A very simple rule to follow if you want to maintain your clothes in shape is to always fold your knitwear and place it on a shelf. Don’t hang sweat-
ers or other knitted items on a hanger. If you hang knitted clothes on hangers, they will lose their overall shape and will hang badly on you. Not to mention they will get those invisible shoulder pads.
4. Remove stains quickly, wisely and easily If your clothes get stained, you should wash them as soon as possible. There are many ways in which you can remove stains, depending on the type of stain you want to remove. When you get a stain on a clothing item, make sure you blot it and not try to rub it away, as rubbing the stain
might make it larger and it might make it stick on your garment. Afterwards, you can throw the garment in the washer. As a quick tip, note that plain white vinegar is a good thing to apply on most stains. It also works great when it comes to preserving white and other bright items. Moreover, to maintain your clothes in great shape for a longer time, you should avoid bleaching them. Also, some clothes, such as jeans are better off air dried than dried in a washer, so, if possible, let your clothes dry in the air rather than having them dried in a machine.
5. Store your clothes in airy spaces Your clothes will get bad if you store them in places that are not dry and well-aired. Regardless of how you store your clothes, make sure that the place gets air, that it is not too moist and that your clothes are not too tightly squeezed one in the other. Clothing racks are a good alternative for those who lack space, as, even if you need to squeeze your clothes tightly, they will still get air from other sides.
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6. Remove dust from your accessories Your accessories, and especially jewelry, should be kept in boxes or drawers. We know that some people want to have their accessories hang on different holders, but letting them hang in the open air might make them get full of dust. Jewelry and accessories that feature a high level of intricacy are very hard to clean at home and once they get dust in very tight spaces will make their overall aspect lose its initial great visual impact.
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Doing simple things with your clothes and accessories will make you enjoy them for a longer time. Once you have invested in high-quality clothes and accessories, you should do your best to keep them in shape, as you deserve to enjoy your investment. For more style guides, visit attireclub.org
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IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Model
José Falcone An upcoming star in his own right, José Falcone is a Brazilian model who has all that it takes to take over the fashion world. He’s got the face, the body and the charisma to conquer the modeling scene, which he does one day at a time. Being present on social media and YouTube, he is conquering the attention of thousands around the world with his radiant presence. Read our interview with José on dreams, modeling and more.
“My dream is to be part of a Brazilian telenovela” How did you grow up? Did you always want to be in front of a camera? José Falcone: My modeling career started when I was 15 years old. This year, it will be 8 years since I’ve started modeling. I’ve had dreams of being a model since I was little and worked very hard to make it in the modeling world, but I finally managed to get an international contract. I am from the Amazon, in Brazil and unfortunately, there isn’t a fashion world that could help me. But, with what little I had there, I was able to create my brand, start my blog and become known in Brazil and the only male model with a fashion blog in the North of Brazil. I’ve always wanted to be in front of the camera, make videos, be in pictures and all that. I really love it.
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How did you become a model?
What is the best part of being a model?
JF: Having a modeling career has always been my dream and when I was about 16, I discovered a course for “New Faces” at some agency in my city, which provided some tips and tricks in regards to walking the runway and acting. This is how it all offically started.
JF: The best part of modeling is that you get to travel a lot. This way, you get to meet people from all parts of the world
What can you tell us about your other ventures: blogging, acting, videos? JF: All these extra ventures were basically ways to showcase more of my job and to be as close as I can to my followers. They always want to find out more, and with these avenues, they feel like my real friends. I love acting, even though I need more practice. My dream is to be part of a Brazilian telenovela.
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and from extremely different cultures. You get to share experiences with other models, which is also great. What is the worst part? JF: The worst part for me is the launch of a career. The money you get here is not enough to even buy what’s strictly necessary. Not yet at
least, haha. But I’m the kind of person who has a lot of patience, who believes in the best and who has a positive thinking. I believe that if you do good things for others, good things will come back to you.
What do you want to do in the future? JF: My desire for the future is to continue with my modeling career and to begin a career as an actor too. And with that, to be able to help my family and to make a living for myself. I only wish health, because with that, I can reach my goals and prove everyone, including myself, that I am capable of doing it. Thank you! Follow JosĂŠ on Instagram at instagram.com/josefalcone/
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TRAVEL AND CULTURE
¥Hola Amigos! We’re inviting you to embark on a visual journey across Central and South America in which you will discover exciting people and landscapes. As East-West relations in the world tend to become thinner, the North-South axis will become one of the main bridges of fashion and culture in the future - but who knows? This InCompany portfolio features a carefully curated selection of photographs taken by talented artists who are sharing their view of clothing, accessories and overall style in countries such as Peru, Nicaragua, Chile and more.
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Pedro Szekely Aaron, Woman, Eagle and Baby Alpaca in Peru August 2007
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Estrella Vivanco-Stevenson Quechua Boys, Peru October 2015
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Gaby Fil Bailarines de Marinera en LurĂn, Provincia de Lima, Peru April 2015
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Hideki Naito Woman in Managua, Nicaragua February 2008
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Richard McManus Andean Boy in Pisac, Peru July 2016
Fernando Rosales Purépecha Boy, Michoacán, México
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Andres Tapia Mariachis in Mexico October 2015
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Adoravel Salvatore Machos, Mexico October 2006
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Samuel Yupanqui A woman in Puente Alto, Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile July 2015
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Current Obsessions Porsche Design Edition
For more Porsche Design, go to porsche-design.com 38
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SECRETS OF FASHION: IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Men’s Fashion Blogger
Karamjit Singh Maniani Karamjit Singh Maniani is a US fashion blogger who has set out to popularize the Sikh image in the States and the West. Because turbans create quite a confusion in the perception of many peope, Karamjit is using his blog to show menswear with a Sikh twist. Discover our interview with him, in which he discusses how he incorporates his turbans into his daily outfits, how he deals with not cutting his hair and what he makes of turbans on the runways of the world.
“The Sikh turban is a crown” Jay Singh-Sohal, author of the book “Turbanology: Guide to Sikh Identity” said that “The Sikh turban is a crown.” What can you tell us about the Sikh turban and what should people know about it? Karamjit Singh Maniani: I completely agree with Singh-Sohal, the Sikh turban is a crown because in pre-modern era the turban was regarded as a status symbol for Indian royalty. However, that was changed when Guru Gobind Singh Ji, mandated that Sikh’s are required to wear a turban as a symbol of their faith. This fundamental rule made the turban open to everyone of the Sikh faith regardless of their status in society, meaning that by 40
wearing a turban one is royalty because you are a Sikh. The one thing I would like to point out is that the “turban” is not a fashion statement and should therefore not be worn by non-Sikh’s as such. If they would like to feel what it feels like to wear a turban, then they must treat it with respect as a sacred religious article of faith. How do you incorporate your turbans in your outfits? KSM: I incorporate my turban in all my outfits by making it with the same hues of color. If my turban color doesn’t really match my outfit from the start, in the end, after the outfit is put together and due my knowledge of knowing what colors go together, everything
works out. How many turbans do you own? KSM: Well, the correct things say would be, “How many different types of clothes do I own.” I say this because I tie my turban every day and I have around 7-20 different colors that I use. I wear some more than others and stick to those which suit my skin tone. One of the requirements of Sikhism is not to cut your hair (Kesh). How do you deal with that? KSM: To be honest, I’ve never cut my hair (Kesh) since I was young and, as you can imagine, I have fairly long hair underneath my turban. I’ve
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found my hair to be an issue for me because I get to barge about having longer hair then most girls I meet and that’s always a fun conversation piece. In Sikhism, you are required to carry a small sword called a Kirpan to protect yourself and the weak. These days, that can be a good accessory to have. Do you carry one? KSM: The kirpan is a fundamental requirement for Sikh’s, but I live in the Unites States and carrying a small unconcealed dagger is against the law. So, I do not carry a kirpan.
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What is your take on cultural appropriation? What is your opinion on non-Sikh men wearing turbans? In other words, is the turban more cultural or religious? KSM: This issue is like two sides off a coin, to put it simply a turban for a Sikh is a religious article of faith. Many non-Sikh’s in Indian do wear a turban but they do so because a turban is cultural practice for them. The one thing someone who is of non-Indian origin and a non-Sikh should never do is wear a turban just because they find it to look “cool,” that is extremely insulting in my opinion.
How do you view Sikh turbans on the runway? KSM: I do not like it when fashion designers use Sikh turban on the runway especially when the model is non-Indian and non-Sikh and has no idea as to what a turban even means. Sounds harsh, right? But it’s my honest opinion, if a designer wants to promote cultural and religious diversity in their show then they need to scouts talent of Sikh faith. Now, let’s turn to you personally a little. What are your favorite things to wear? KSM: Well, my favorite things to wear are jeans and a shirt and when it’s too hot during the summer, shorts
with a nice t-shirt or shirt. How would you describe a great outfit?
KSM: My blog has been received mixed reviews as most blogs, some like it and some don’t. As the majority of my followers greatly like my work so anyone who dislikes it, I tend to laugh the bad criticism off.
What are you currently obsessed with, fashion- and otherwise? KSM: I’m currently obsessed with a lot of things in fashion even though I’m very picky about what I like. My preferred brands like Zara, Asos,
YRead this article with a song!
KSM: A great outfit for me is one that is simple but makes a big impact. The trick to obtain that is to buy quality not quantity and really know what colors compliment your skin tone, which is key to a successful outfit.
How has your blog been received?
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and Express Men usually have most of the trends I like. Men should devote time to wearing clothes that fit your body type like “fitted clothing.” Wearing sometime that is baggy all over the place is a big no. In short, what is the modern Sikh? KSM: The concept of The “Modern Sikh” is my way to showcasing that fashion present in every society, culture, religion, and ethnic background and diversity in fashion shows needs to be given more opportunity. I started my blog to highlight the Sikh community in the United States and clear the confusion about people who wear turbans. Thank you! Discover Karamjit’s blog at themodernsikh.com
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Taking Our Hats off to the Best in Fashion attireclub.org
TRAVEL AND CULTURE: TRAVEL ALPHABET
EEstonia for
Estonia is one of the three Baltic states. It is a small country, but it is a very developed place. Estonia is at the forefront of technology, business and supermodels. Discover our visual journrey this small, yet dynamic place. 46
Photo: Lauri Oherd
Geography of Estonia
ESTONIA HAS 2222 ISLANDS and islets in the Baltic. That’s a lot, but other European countries have even more: Finland has 179,000.
THE HIGHEST POINT IN THE COUNTRY is Suur Munamägi (which can be translated as “Big Egg Mountain”), which has just 318 meters / 1,043 feet above sea level.
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BECAUSE OF ITS LARGE, FLAT SURFACES, Estonia is a great place for Nordic ski training. In 2006, one Estonian sportswoman won two gold medals during the Olympic Winter games and Estonians bought every pair of skis available in shops the very next day.
ESTONIA HAS THE LARGEST NUMBER of meteorite craters per land area in the world.
Photo: Dennis Jarvis
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History & Culture of Estonia THE NAME of the country comes from the “Ests” who inhabited the region in the 1st century.
THE OFFICIAL CAPITAL of Estonia is Tallinn, but the country is unique because it has more than just one recognized capital. The country has several capitals that change throughout the year. Tartu is established as the “cultural capital of Estonia”, while Parnu is known to be the “summer capital.”
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ONE OF THE GREATEST ESTONIANS is considered Paul Keres, who was a chess grandmaster from the 1930s until the mid 1960s.
TALLINN is sometimes called “the Silicon Valley of Europe” and has the continent’s highest number of startups per head of population.
ESTONIA WAS THE FIRST COUNTRY in the world to adopt online voting. They did it back in 2005.
THE HIGHEST NUMBER OF SUPERMODELS per capita in the world is also found in Estonia.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT is completely free for residents of the Estonian capital, Tallinn.
Photo: Alex Liivet
Society of Estonia ESTONIA IS ONE OF EUROPE’S LEAST CROWDED countries. Its population density is 28.4 people per square kilometer. Only Finland, Sweden, Norway and Russia have lower numbers. With 1.3 million inhabitants, Estonia is also one of the least populated countries of all the EU member states.
THERE ARE A LOT MORE WOMEN THAN MEN LIVING IN ESTONIA. For every 100 females in Estonia, there are only 84 males. Only the Northern Mariana Islands, a US territory in the Pacific Ocean, which has a population of around 50,000, has a smaller percentage of males
than Estonia.
SKYPE has been invented in great part by a group of Estonians. Today, 44 per cent of its employees are based in Tallinn and Tartu. ONE OF THE HIGHEST ADULT LITERACY rates in the world is also found in Estonia with 99.8% of people being literate, according to UNESCO. The only countries that claim to have higher rates of literacy are Latvia and North Korea (dubiously). THE ESTONIAN POPULATION has fallen a lot in recent years. In 1989 there were 1,565,662 people liv-
ing in the country and today there are only 1,317,797, which means that the country has had a 16% drop. ABOUT 1.5 MILLION TOURISTS visit Tallinn each year, which includes more than 500 000 cruise passengers. E-STONIA is one of the nicknames the country should have as it is one of the few countries in the world where you can do almost anything from education to healthcare online. You can even register a company online in less than 5 minutes.
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STYLE GUIDE
How to Match Your Tie to Your Pocket Square
The pocket square, also known by the name pockerchief or handkerchief, is a very small, yet significant piece of men’s accessories. The hankie, as it is also called is mostly known for its decorative purposes and for the fact that it can be folded in so many ways that you can loose count. However, while this might be interesting trivia, the number one question that men ask when it comes to their pocket squares is whether this should match your tie or not. In this guide, we look at the vaious ways in which you can match your tie to your pocket square, following one simple rule: they shouldn’t match. 52
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or great sartorial results, there is only one basic rule you should follow when it comes to wearing your tie with a pocket square, and this is that they shouldn’t match. For many guys, this puts them in some difficulty, as choosing to be exactly matched is the easy way out. Unfortunately, being all matched is not something that looks well: it simply goes to show that you do things in a simplistic way. There’s nothing wrong with being simple, but simplistic denotes that you are a bit sartorially lazy.
Just because your tie should not match your pocket square, doesn’t mean that they should be picked at random. There are a lot of color schemes you can use to establish which colors go together well. For example you can opt for complementary colors, such as red and green; blue and orange; yellow and purple for a contrasting effect, or you can opt for analog colors such as green and blue; blue and violet; or yellow and orange for a more subtle look! If one of the two accessories (tie or pocket square) is a neutral color (gray, beige, white, khaki, black, etc.), the other one can be any color you want it to be. Neutrals go with any color. Also, sometimes you might want to match your pocket square to your shirt, especial-
ly if you are wearing a white shirt. A white shirt goes well with a white pocket square, especially if the jacket is black or navy. In this case, the tie can be of any color and style.
YRead this article with a song!
Of course, if you are wearing a tie, it is not mandatory to wear a pocket square or vice versa; especially on casual occasions, but it makes a nice touch. So, whether you want to wear a tie and a pocket square to a formal event or in a casual setting, here are the elements you should consider:
Color
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Ties and pocket squares by Ulterior Motive
Patterns There are three possibilities when it comes to matching your tie to your pocket square should you decide to wear a pattern or a print. a.The tie is a solid color and the pocket square has a pattern or a print. In this case, one of colors of the pocket square can be the color of the tie, but this is not mandatory. For a more subtle look, you can opt that the color that reoccurs to be in a different shade on the pocket square. b.Both the tie and pocket square have patterns or prints. If both accessories have patterns or prints, they should never be the same. The rule to matching patterns or prints is that they should never be the 54
same size. Even if you are mixing different patterns, they should still not be the same size. For example, if your tie has thin stripes, you can mix it with a pocket square with thick stripes (the same pattern but in a different size). A tie with thin stripes can also be mixed with a pocket square with dots, for example. In this case, the dots should be large, since the lines on the tie are thin. If the stripes on the tie were thick, you should have matched them to small dots (different patterns of different sizes). c.The tie has a pattern and the pocket square is in a solid color. In this case, there is not much to say, the same rules from point “a� apply. The two should not match, but they should go together well and complement each other.
Fabrics When it comes to fabrics, a man is supposed to follow the same rule. Since the purpose of the pocket square is to break the jacket and to add a nice touch to it, the fabric of the pocket square should also be different than the fabrics from which the jacket and tie are made. Of course, the tie and the jacket should not necessarily be made from the same fabric, but the pocket square can really be very different. Since most suits are made from wool, a nice pocket square can be made from silk. Silk and wool go great together. If your suit is made from a rather fine material, you can add a rougher pocket square, maybe even something with a texture. It’s up to you how you wish to match your tie to your pocket square, but we think that if you follow these guidelines, you will always look great, no matter of the style you adopt and of what your taste is. You should have confidence in yourself and try different combinations to see which one works best.
With Orange and Blue You’ll Get the Best Review attireclub.org 55
IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Filmmaker
Hadi Moussally Hadi Moussally is a filmmaker and photographer living in Paris. Having two Masters’ degrees under his belt, he has directed and scripted over 20 short films, music videos, fashion films, experimental films and documentaries. Now he has embarked on The 12Project, a new venture that combines film, photography and fashion.
“I try to give a meaning to my films and photos” What is The12Project? Hadi Moussally: The12Project is 12 months, 12 fashion films, 12 editorials, 12 fashion designers, 12 models and 12 themes. Each month of the year, we produced an arthouse film that lasts for around one minute and a series of photos, different from all the other films and photos in the project. Each film and photo series contains strong, important messages that are coherent throughout the project. Who is involved? HM: First of all, h7o7Films, a video and photo production company created with my associate Olivier Pagny, we both are the producers of The12Project. We started 56
with a little team of friends and gradually got bigger and bigger with talented friends coming from fields of all kinds. Today, we count 10 members on the team, Olivier Pagny (Photographer, DOP & Post-Production) Max Romain (Original Music), Marie Scirocco (Stylist) Wallace Woo (Make Up Artist), Alexandre Jeanson (Hair Stylist), RJ Arkhipov (Communication Director), Fabien Ghernati (Graphic Designer), Jean Assem Privé (Commercial Designer), Manuel Billi (Financial and Business) and me, Hadi Moussally (Director & Photographer). We are all based in Paris, except Max Romain, who is based in Canada.
What is the goal of The12Project? HM: Having always held an avid interest for fashion, I had an idea to involve my friends whose occupations span from hairstyling, make-up and fashion styling to graphic design, sound engineering to even poetry! We all came together to create a project where we could all do what we loved and that was how the The12Project was born. The idea was to show fashion in a different light, we wanted to use collections to voice our collective thoughts on particular themes. The aim of The12Project is to combine all kind of arts and use all of them as a message.
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company and work on films and photography in different fields: music, documentaries, corporate and especially fashion. On the other way, I think film school taught me to always give meaning to the image I produce. For me, even though fashion is a big industry, I think of it as a form of art. That’s why I try to give a meaning to my films and photos.
How has it been received? HM: Until now, The12Project has received one award, four nominations and fifteen official selections in festivals worldwide. It was a big surprise for us, since we didn’t expect anything when we did it. We just wanted to do something different and something that has a meaning. For me, the biggest surprise is that The12Project is getting bigger and bigger based on the number of views, fans and followers, and impacting all kind of audiences. What have you learned from doing this project? HM: Each month was a new challenge: to create, to produce, to shoot, and especially to seize the ultimate beauty. Today I learned that if we want something really hard, we need to work hard for it. It may sound cheesy, but it’s true. The12Project has had many ups and downs and it’s a project that is made to share our point of view and to show fashion differently and with a meaning. Some of the larger obstacles we have faced, being a young project, being taken seriously in our attempt to show a different side to fashion. This is why, a few times, I just wanted to abandon it, but with the help of my team and associate, we faced all the problems and we were happy to achieve the first year of the project, and finish it as we wanted. It was a lot of hard work, but now it’s time to the 58
audience to see it, to think about it and especially, to enjoy it. What is your personal relation with fashion? HM: I studied filmmaking, and I have received two Master’s degrees, one in feature films and one in documentary. So, I wasn’t really in the fashion industry, even though I have always been interested in it. Until one day, a friend of mine asked me to do a backstage video. The client and I were pleasantly surprised: with my associate, Olivier Pagny, we did something different for the backstage videos trying to mix aesthetics and storytelling. And since, we built our production
Thank you! To discover The12Project, visit the12project.com
AC FASHION NOTEBOOK
Updated Fashions Visual arts such as painting can always serve as great sartorial inspiration. To exemplify just how this can be done in everyday life, we have chosen a series of six iconic portraits, which we have translated into modern images. For each look, we did a dressier take and a more casual one, to show how a color palette or concept can be worked in different ways.
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IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Fashion Designer
Gosha Altshuler Gosha Altshuler is a Ukranian fashion designer. He started his label twelve years ago and since has worked on developing his art and craft. His designs balance classic high end fashion with modern, easy-to-wear clothes. In this exclusive interview, Gosha discusses his designs, the Ukrainian fashion scene and more.
“We’ve survived several crises and revolutions during the last period of time” How do you define your design aesthetic? Gosha Altshuler: The aesthetic of my clothing can be defined by words such as simplicity, functionality and comfort. It is also about faith in traditions and, at the same time, about a craving for something innovative and unconventional in fashion. What are the main influences in your designs? GA: There are a lot of factors that influence my designs – music, new fabrics, the creative works of other people, new information. The world that surrounds us can inspire me in many ways. The inner state of my soul at this or that moment in life is definitely a 64
source of inspiration. Who are your clients? GA: Among my clients are women and men of different ages. But as a rule, all my clients regardless their age, sex and occupation are people who I would describe as having mature personalities. I can describe my client as an intellectual with a sophisticated taste, who has an active lifestyle and an independent position in life. How do you describe the Ukrainian fashion scene today? Where do you think it is heading? GA: We’ve survived several crises and revolutions during the last period of time. It’s
only natural that all these things made a big impact on all spheres of culture. The events of last few years served as an impulse for more vigorous processes in the Ukrainian fashion industry. And, at the same time such changes made us face all the problems exist-
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ing in the industry. We still continue to have problems with access to good materials and accessories. Unfortunately, there is a lack of real specialists and there are many people who have an insufficient qualification. But nevertheless, this is a period when people appeared who are great to represent Ukrainian fashion in the world. Finally, we’ve managed to attract more attention to the world fashion; today we are competent and decent players in the industry. The Ukrainian fashion industry moves forward all the time, and to my mind, in the nearest future a lot can change drastically. In my opinion, a big amount of brands of uncertain quality will disappear soon. Only professionals will survive, those who have their own solid niche and position in the market. And probably only then will we generate some valid and fair regulations in the Ukrainian fashion business. What are you personally obsessed with, fashion- and otherwise? GA: I adore my job, I love my family‌ Music is also one of my main obsessions. I enjoy playing and watching football. And, of course I am passionate about giving people joy and good moods with things that I create. Thank you! 66
Discover Gosha’s label at instagram.com/ goshaaltshuler.official/
Orange Sometimes Works Like Clockwork attireclub.org
FASHION WORLD
SVENHOLGER
Sven-Holger is a German brand that seeks to create an personal experience for their customers. Their aesthetic is very representative of the people they target, which is mainly the high Swiss and German society. The Sven-Holger Atélier wearer is, as the founder of the brand, Mr. Sven-Holger himself says, someone who you’d see at the St. Moritz Tobogganing Club Crest Run in the Swiss Alps. Here are some things we learned about the brand from Mr. Sven-Holger himself. The brand is individualizing fashion staples (e.g. Casual Jacket, Outdoor Parka, etc.) for the needs of their customers. It is dedicated to using natural materials of the highest quality (e.g. cashmere) and fulfilling their custom-
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ers’ desire for functionality (e.g. iPad pockets in jackets and wardrobe carabiners). Their masterpiece - the Suvretta reversible Cashmere Parka can be individualized with seven different furs / faux furs which the wearer
can swap out whenever they like, thus changing his look for every occasion or for the new season. They can also be detached altogether for events where you prefer not to wear fur. In addition, their furs can be attached to other garments.
The Collection Theme, dedicated to the “Skeleton Sport / Cresta Run, St. Moritz” is all about the story of Sven-Holger, which began more than a decade ago. It is deeply rooted in St. Moritz. The Atélier now translates the timeless clarity
of the Swiss sports collections at the turn of the century and the atmosphere of the racing events into the wardrobe of the style-conscious cosmopolitans.
Every item, including the accessories are created with care. Cufflinks are produced by Bentley & Skinner, London (Jewelers by Royal Appointment to Her Majesty the Queen and H.R.H. the Prince of Wales).
Discover Sven-Holger at sven-holger.com 69
STYLE GUIDE
10 Advantages of Leather Photos: Attire Club
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eather is a fabric that has been used by humans to make clothes and accessories, long before the fashion industry as we know it appeared. It has been used in all eras, by pretty much every culture and they knew why they were choosing it. Leather is a great material that protects the human body or goods; it is comfortable and long-lasting. There are a lot of leather types which can be turned into a very long palette of products and many people occupy their time with manufacturing leather goods, as there’s nothing like a hand-made leather piece. Some people and take their craftsmanship to a different level and turn it into great brands. Using leather goods, as it’s useless to have them if you don’t use them, has a lot of advantages. These are:
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1. Durability. Leather is an extremely durable material, especially if it is of high quality. Generally, leather manufacturers try to make the best from their leather and to treat it in a way that will make it more resistant and durable. Even though high-quality leather goods might be more expensive, you can almost always be sure that they will last years and look just as good. 2. Timelessness. Speaking of durability, we also need to speak about the timeless fabric leather is. Leather goods are always in style and are the mark of a person who is steady and who values strong foundations. This is why you can’t say “there’s no point in leather being extremely durable, if it won’t be fashionable”, because leather has proven itself as a timeless fabric. 3. Style. Leather is a very elegant material. In its natural color or dyed, leather will always add a certain degree of quality to any design. Everything looks more powerful in leather: leather wallets look better than plastic wallets,
leather pants look more badass than cotton pants. If you’re going to get into a barroom brawl, you better wear a leather jacket. Jokes aside, leather always looks good and is an indicator of quality, appreciation of elegance, strength and naturalness. It’s actually pretty amazing how one can communicate so many things through the fabrics of his clothes and accessories. Genuine leather won’t peel or crack, so your leather goods will always be ready to be used. We need to mention that genuine leather goods, should they be accessories or clothes, have small scratches or signs. Don’t worry; those are an indicator that the leather is of high quality and not man-made and are to be appreciated. 4. Naturalness. Leather is a natural fabric and we don’t condone any type of synthetic leather (with a few exceptions, of course). It’s always important to have things that are made from natural fabrics, as, as human beings we need to be in contact with natural objects when it comes to clothes. Synthetic fibers can
give you rashes, make your skin itch and even though sometimes you might not feel it or be able to make the connection directly, wearing natural fabrics will make you feel physically and mentally good, as opposed to synthetic fibers which can make you feel bad, as they are foreign elements to your body and are not optimized for human wear. 5. Strength. Besides from lasting a long time, leather usually keeps its quality in time as well. Leather is resistant to dry abrasion, can be resistant to fire (if treated for it), and it is partly waterproof. Unlike other materials, leather is also resistant to dust mites and fungal attacks. Leather is also lint and dust-free, which means that it will look and feel just as great even if you don’t treat it in a special way. We would recommend that you get leather travel bags as well, as when you travel you need to have sturdy things in which you place your belongings.
7. Flexibility. With all the talk about leather being tough and unbreakable, one might begin to think that leather is similar to rock or wood. But that’s obviously not the case. With time, leather becomes more and more flexible while keeping its shape and strength. This is why you shouldn’t worry if a leather item you purchased seems a little woody in the beginning and then begins to soften, that’s supposed to happen and it’s not a bad thing. Being flexible makes leather only greater, as it molds to its owners lifestyle, shape and way of use.
8. Leather doesn’t cost much. When we tell people that leather is inexpensive, many raise an eyebrow. But leather is truly not expensive. It is true that leather products cost more than products made from synthetic leather or other fabrics, but they last so much longer that the cost/wear ratio is extremely small. For example if you buy a leather duffle bag for $900, but you will use it for the next 10 years, it means that it costs you only $90/ year. If you use it 150 times in a year, the cost/use is $0.6. From experience, we can tell you that some leather backpacks or other types of bags can very well last more than 10 years.
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6. Leather breathes. This might sound like a vague argument, but leather is a fabric that breathes well. Imagine what would happen if you seal a room and leave it like that for a year. You would end up having a room full with fungus, because of unbreathable air, the things in it would get either too moist or too dry and everything would be out of place. However, if you let air go through the room or have wooden window frames, everything will still be in or-
der one year later. The same happens with leather. If you keep your goods in leather bags and wallets or dress up in leather, everything will be balanced and right due to this factor. This is a great unique feature leather has, and you should take advantage of it!
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9. Leather smells good. As weird as this might sound, leather has a certain smell to it with which you might be familiar. The reason this is important is not only because one can have a nice experience smelling his leather wallet, but for another reason as well. If you have a synthetic wallet or key tag and place it in your bag or briefcase, the bad smell a synthetic product might have can spread all over, giving you and the people around you a big surprise when you open the bag or briefcase. Moreover, since the smell of leather is a natural one, it behaves well when in contact with perfumes, so you won’t have bad experiences that might involve the change of your perfume’s smell.
10. It is eco-friendly. Not only is leather natural and therefore no chemicals were used in the making of it, polluting the air, the rivers and the environment in general, but unlike other fabrics, leather is also bio-degradable. In a world where fashion is often accused of not being environmental-friendly, owning leather goods is just a way to be both eco-friendly and stylish.
To conclude, we can say that leather is one of our favorite fabrics, as it is strong, but works with you and your lifestyle, it is inexpensive and natural, it looks amazing and is extremely durable.
For more style guides, visit attireclub.org
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Rethinking Luxury Photos: Attire Club
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The world of luxury goods has always had its special place in the hearts and minds of its consumers and culture at large, as well as in the business world. Today, luxury is on the point of a new beginning. Here is our forecast of how luxury will be reconceptualized in the decade to come.
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Too much of a good thing is bad The luxury world is a very distinct cultural place and market. Defined by the high quality of the goods, but even more by the steep prices, the luxury movers and shakers of the world make it hard to gain access to their world. Historically, the luxury market has always had a rather steady flow. Even in times when others markets have suffered by going down, or went extremely high due to eco-
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nomic prosperity, the luxury market has maintained its level, featuring an overall continuous growth. The reason for this is quite clear: the luxury market is a defined sector that is separate from many elements. People who buy luxury products are not very affected by the ups and downs of certain industries, unless there is a big boom or crash. Also, the concept of “the rich are getting richer” is one of the causes why the luxury market is expanding.
As we are now at the beginning of 2017 looking ahead to a rather unclear time – most futurists and trend forecasters don’t know what to make of it – the luxury market finds itself in a rather unique position. On the one hand, it will maintain its status of being unreachable by the masses, but on the other hand, it needs to think of strategies to go up, as many more people today can afford luxury goods. There are growing luxury markets in countries such as Russia, India and Brazil and luxury shopping is rapidly expanding in places like China, where new shopping centers are built and luxury shoppers are commuting in order to get the newest bags, jackets and shoes from Paris. Also, the fact that many people are making lots of money from online retailing and other similar sources adds to the expansion of possible luxury customers.
And, while for most industries it is a great sign that the overall industry is booming, this can prove itself to be quite a downer for some luxury brands and consumers. As more and more people can afford luxury goods – from bags and shoes to watches and cars, the concept of luxury could be soon redefined. One of the main traits of luxury is that it is not accessible to many people, and, if more and more people can access it, it isn’t luxury anymore. Therefore, in the next years, the luxury sector might have to come up with bigger and bolder products and experiences. It’s pretty certain that we will see a come-back of couture. The approach will be a combination of high tech and slow craft. This way, there will be a new segment of luxury shoppers created, or a bigger distancing between the new class of affordable luxury and exclusive luxury goods. One of the key words on which luxury brands might rely is the experience factor or the story factor. While the quality of the products cannot be very much increased (of course we will see lots of technological advances incorporated in clothes, but these will be rapidly adapted by the mainstream), the story of an item or the experience that will be associated with it will be what will define luxury. In other words, the person who makes the item, the person who designs it or the
provenience of the materials themselves will be what will define luxury. That is not to say that the quality and branding will disappear. They will definitely remain and become bigger, but they will also have to work with these new concepts and incorporate them in the brand’s concept. Digital matters In recent years, luxury labels have not been very active digitally, featuring simple websites and low-key social media presences. And there’s a good reason for that. Online content these days is available to everyone and, offering the same experience to a luxury buyer as well as to a simple visitor makes the luxury experience less special. The weight of luxury lies in owning a product, not reading comments about it online. In recent months, several brands have developed bigger social media strategies, as studies have shown that many people even buy luxury goods
online, directly from their phones. These, however, are the so-called accessible luxuries, which again draws us to the line between accessible luxury and exclusive luxury. True exclusive luxury goods are bought as the result of an experience, not by tapping your phone in line at a counter. This is why it is most likely that there will be a strong break in the world of luxury in the years to come: on the one side, there will be the affordable luxuries, which will grow in diversity and size and on the one hand, there will be the exclusive luxury goods and experiences, which will grow in quality and also in price. Luxury within itself is more of an experience: it is based on emotions, on the way one feels when wearing, driving or experiencing something. It’s about being associated with a set of values and concepts. And that is not going to change any time soon. Originally published on attireclub.org on March 4, 2017
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Fashion Ahead The First Collection 3D Printed at Home by
Danit Peleg Danit Peleg is an Israeli fashion designer who used 3D printing to materialize her first collection. While this technology has been around for a while, the Shankar College of Engineering and Design graduate who was the first one to make a whole collection that was printed at home. Her designs are not only fashion-forward in terms of technology, but in terms of design as well. And, as a cherry on the top, they are extremely wearable.
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Danit’s endeavor is definitely a very relevant move in the fashion world. As 3D printing becomes more and more popular, the fact that a designer has been able to create a runway-ready collection using a 3D printer at home is a remarkable step, which can open up a whole new discussion about materials and fashion in general. While it took 2000 hours for Danit to print her collection, the designer is hoping for a future where people will be able to print custom-made clothes from home in just a couple of minutes. This very possible scenario can definitely be a game changer in the way we make, think of and, most of all, access clothes.
Discover more 3D printed clothes by Danit Peleg at danitpeleg.com
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FASHION AND TECHNOLOGY: IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Entrepreneur & Innovator
Frank Wautier Frank Wautier is one of the key people of the French Kalypse brand, which offers a new take on wetsuits. Using state-of-the-art technology and a new style approach, the label is offering a new and completely improved experience to diving, both from a technical and an aesthetic point of view.
“The biggest revolution in the future would be to get rid of the use of neoprene in favor of a more eco-responsible material” How did the idea of Kalypse come about? Frank Wautier: With a biomedical engineer diploma, I created 20 years ago, a home health care company in Montpellier, in the south of France. For various reasons, I sold this company 3 years ago. Passionate about scuba diving, I decided to create Kalypse 2 years ago. Everything started from a simple fact: wetsuits are generally not easy to put on, they are uncomfortable and generally have no style or nice colors. I noticed that in dive shops, all the wetsuits were black. Moreover, nothing today is proposed for women and their specific body shape. 80
So, by creating Kalypse, I wanted to propose well-designed wetsuits that are also comfortable and made in France. Coco Chanel said that “if a woman is poorly dressed, you notice her dress, and if she is impeccably dressed, you notice the woman”. I wanted to make all women who wear wetsuits more beautiful! What makes your wetsuits different? FW: There are four aspects that define our wetsuits: comfort, style, made-to-measure and the fact that they are made in France. First of all, in terms of design
I work in collaboration with a Parisian stylist who drew all our models. All sketches were submitted to a panel of men and women divers, who participated in the selection of models. Then, I created an experts committee, which was a collaborative partnership between Kalypse and professional diving instructors, who helped us definite the innovative technical solutions. For two years, they tested by actual diving all the prototypes in order to create the four models. The second pillar of our wetsuits is the comfort. In parallel to working on the styles, we have succeeded in developing an exclusive 3D design software: the wetsuits
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are created using an avatar. Using modern manufacturing techniques, after cutting the different parts of the wetsuit, when we glue and sew them together, we find the same volume present on the avatar. Therefore, when a wearer puts on the wetsuit, they slide freely inside. It’s really easier than with any regular wetsuit and much more comfortable. Its an unmatched fit and feel! The made-to-measure provides a high degree of comfort: it’s works just like a second skin.
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Lastly, all our wetsuits are designed and fully handmade in our workshop in Montpellier. Our fully controlled production cycle incorporates rigorous quality assurance processes, enabling us to offer a 3 years warranty to all customers. In addition, years of experience in wetsuit design and manufacturing have resulted in an exceptional overlock seam quality, which can be found in all of our products.
How do you use the digital measurement techniques? FW: All the avatars we use come from measurement campaigns - 3D scan data from our international sizing catalogue, carried out by the IFTH (Industrie Française de l’Habillement – the French Industry of Clothing). This is how we can create avatars for all the divers from all continents. For the moment, when we create a tailor-made wetsuit, we take the different measures of
the customer’s body, as a classical tailor would do. These measures allow us to recreate the avatar of the customer. Then we apply the parts of the wetsuit on their avatar.
FW: The first thing you feel when you dive with a custom fit Kalypse wetsuit, is comfort.
The use of a particularly stretch neoprene, dedicated to diving, will increase the feeling of well-being as well.
Many of our customers, even diving instructors, tell us they have the feeling of diving in a pajama! This is true even if the customer’s girth comes out the standard. Then, the control of the compression template allows us to further increase the comfort by elim-
How do you see the future of wetsuits?
To facilitate this measurement, we are currently working on the development of an automatic solution based on photos taken by the customer with his smartphone.
FW: Many young divers are turning away from this sport because the wetsuits are not elegant. It seems to me inevitable that
diving brands will propose more suitable products. But they are subjected to high criteria of profitability which hamper them in this approach. The biggest revolution in the future would be to get rid of the use of neoprene in favor of a more eco-responsible material. Thank you! Discover Kalypse at kalypse.fr
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How does getting a custom fit help the wearer?
inating the sensations of constraint and breathlessness. Finally, the custom fit makes it possible to obtain a true second skin wetsuit. The air pockets, water pockets in diving, are eliminated, thus increasing the thermal performance of the wetsuit. This is why some of our customers have dropped their semi-dry wetsuit in favor of a Kalypse. The air pocket, often present in the woman’s waist and lower back, no longer exists with our wetsuit.
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THE ATTIRE CLUB MOOD DIARY 84
Our mood board as a visual journal
The Jewel Book Our Mood Board this season features the Jewel Book of Duchess Anna and Duke Albrecht V of Bavaria, who had an incredible collection of jewelry. The series of images is a collection os must-see paintings of mid-16th century jewelry.
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RUNWAY REPORT
The NAT Atelier AW 17-18 Collection NAT Atelier released its autumn-winter 2017-18 collection during Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days. The collection mixed a conceptual approach with a wearable and practical vision, which resulted in a balanced and tense collection.
Inspired by the aesthetic of the constructivism of the 1920s and 30s, the collection featured a mix of sharp lines and shapes and soft curves and light areas. The alternating between these contrasting design elements resulted in a very dynamic collection of garments, therefore representing the inspiration for the collection. Just like many constructivist creative works, it was all about diagonals and the way in which these came together in purposeful intersections. The colors were definitely one of main points the collection wanted to make: dark and light, but always deep and strong. We could see many blacks and grays, accompanied by very strong spots of 94
orange. The hard fabrics, which offer movement nonetheless also express this idea of contrast between the visible and forces that drive it. The reason why this collection was special was because it dealt with themes such as dynamics, progression and
cyclicity. The fashion world is at a point where it is stepping into another dimension, so a collection that works with these issues is definitely a great conversation starter. While the garments were filled with so much cognition, they were also very practical and wearable. The fact
that they use few (but pretty well chosen) design elements makes them versatile. They can definitely be mixed with other types of pieces, which can result in different types of outfits: dressy, sporty, etc. Nat Stakhniv, the brand’s creative director wanted to use the elements of constructivism as he felt that they can represent a structure on which one can build. He took a lot of his inspiration from constructivist architecture, which is still around in many places, having become some sort of
classic aesthetic. The NAT Atelier autumn-winter 2017-18 collection was definitely a collection about finding direction: the lines reminded us not only of architectural design elements, but also of crossroads leading the way. The colors were all about finding difference in uniformity and details were the marks of personality in a simplified environment. It was all about a fight that can lead to a symbiosis: very harsh, natural materials were
mixed with very soft fabrics, bright colors were mixed dark ones and soft curves were intertwined with harsh cuts. Hard and soft, here and there, they and us.
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QR Code Glossary
Discover the websites featured in this issue! Transylvanian International Piano Competition u tipnoc.com Page 2
The12Project u the12project.com Page 58
Mint Model Management u mintmodelmgmt.com Page 12
LaFress u lafress.com Page 59
Marco Varga u marcovarga.com Page 16
Musette u musette.eu Page 63
JosĂŠ Falcone u instagram.com/josefalcone Page 25
Gosha Altshuler u goshaaltshuler.com Page 66
Porsche Design u porsche-design.com Page 38
The Modern Sikh u themodernsikh.com Page 44
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Sven Holger u sven-holger.com Page 69
Danit Peleg u danitpeleg.com Page 79
Kalypse u kalypse.fr Page 83
NAT Atelier u facebook.com/nat.atelier.uk Page 95
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A vintage article about rhe man behind the character, Charles Chaplin. Speaking of onstage and backstage...
IChAC