In fashion,
the ordinary
must always be
extraordinary
EDITORIAL Editorial: Getting Yourself Happy
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appiness is a complicated thing. A goal for many for sure, but there’s so much that is and could be discussed about happiness that one’s head can start spinning only when thinking of the amount of things that can be talked about when it comes to this subject. One thing is sure though: happiness is a universal thing and its definition is different from person to person. Some people mistake it for pleasure, overlap it with the idea of joy or see it as something that is maybe even too hard to be defined. For others, happiness is a state they reach every day. Certainly, the definitions and acceptations of happiness are as diverse as people are. While certain big definitions of happiness can be drawn and many thinkers have drawn them, happiness is ultimately something very private. And that is understandable, given that it is so important and fragile. Happiness, or our idea of it says a lot about who we truly are. It speaks volumes not only about our ideals of the world, but also about the ways one can or should get there, which means one is supposed to use to be happy, both on a material and a spiritual level. Thus, in a world where many people refuse to look inside themselves, it is only natural that happiness is something that many see as a taboo and others don’t even want to talk about. However, happiness is ultimately a moral duty and one should use all the things they can to gain it or to live it. While it might be hard, and great things are never easy to achieve, “every journey begins with a single step” as the old saying goes, so if you want to be happy, one way of getting there is taking it one step at the time. Look inside and you will find what happiness is and analyze the ways in which you can get there. A man can’t be happy until he takes responsibiliy for his life. Who knows, you might be there already… The Attire Club Team
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InCompanytAttirehClub Released by FRAQUOH AND FRANCHOMME Chief Executive Officer Dan Dimitriu Creative Director Iosif Trif Write letters to the editor iosif.trif@attireclub.org Visit our website attireclub.org Contact & Advertising office@attireclub.org Address Theresiengasse 50 Top 1 1180 Vienna Austria Telephone 0097 150 12 801 73 Follow us Facebook: facebook.com/attireclub
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Contents Autumn 2017
Editorial
Getting Yourself Happy Definining happiness is a tough job. u3 In Their Own Words Fashion Designer Marko Marosiuk The fantastic lives of divas. u 10 AC Style Notebook The AC Accessories Case It’s in the details. u 14 Style Guide Sneakers: Three Things to Check Sneakers are not just for sports. u 20 In Their Own Words Fashion Designer Claus Tyler The Austrian designer is taking his brand to Paris. u 24 Fashion and Culture She’s Got the Look Music videos charged with beauty. u 28 In Their Own Words Fashion Designer Aleksandar Gavrić 6
Modern Serbian Menswear. u 36
AC Style Notebook Fashion Fact or Fiction Guess which fashion rules make sense! u 40 In Their Own Words Fashion Designer Patrick de Pádua Chasing dreams from Portugal. u 52 Style Guide Emotion & Design: Talks on the Aesthetics of Watches What makes luxury watches special. u 58 Secrets of Fashion Odd Trends of the Past If you think today’s trends are weird, you should see these. u 63 Art and Culture Agenda Notes on Notes A photo portfolio of the finalists of the Transylvanian International Piano Competition.
Mixing it up.
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u 82
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In Their Own Words Fashion Designer Artem Shumov The Russian designer who’s making waves around the world. u 78 Current Obsessions For Him and Her Edition
Travel and Culture G for Greece Dancing the syrtaki. u 84 Fashion and Technology: In Their Own Words Entrepreneur and Innovator Dr. Carmen Hijosa Faux leather made from pineapples. u 90 A Report on the Party and the Guests Vienna Fashion Week 2017 Austria’s biggest fashion event in images. u 94 Fashion Ahead Drawn Clothes by Elvira ‘t Hart Literally. u 102 The Attire Club Mood Diary Huge 1700s Wigs High hair. u 104 AC World New Attire Club Bow Ties Which one’s yours? u 112 QR Code Glossary Discover the Brands Presented in This Issue Use your phone or tablet to go right to the brands and websites you've seen in this issue of the diary. u 114
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InCompanytAttirehClub
The Smart Magazine Attire Club is offering a complete men’s style, fashion and lifestyle experience, centered around the AC website. To discover our universe and over 1000 articles that will offer you the tools to develop your style, as well as fashion inspiration and cultural insights and to interact with us and be part of our community, visit us online.
attireclub.org See our QR Code Glossary at the end of the magazine
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IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Fashion Designer
Marko Marosiuk Marko Maosiuk is a fashion designer from Belgrade, Serbia. He graduated from the Academy of Fine Arts in Belgrade, the department of costume design and is currently working on building his own aesthetic and vision. Inspired by dolls and fairy tale characters, but also by divas, Marko loves the combination of glamour and mystery. In this InCompany by Attire Club interview, he discusses his preffered themes, how he became interested in fashion and who his dream client would be.
“ I am directing a play with each collection because in my mind, each model plays a different character” Can you tell us a little about your background? How did you grow up and how did you get to work in fashion? Marko Marosiuk: I fell in love with fashion when I was just a little boy watching Disney princesses, and thinking “OMG I love those dresses”. I was constantly drawing and painting as a child, and in that time, Disney princesses were my biggest inspiration. Later, when I discovered Vogue and the world of fashion, I fell in love with everything John Galliano was doing for 10
Dior, and realized how much I loved those big gowns, drama and details, and so, I got into the Academy of Fine Arts convinced that I wanted to become a costume and fashion designer, to make big and dramatic ball gowns myself. What are the main themes you explore in your designs? MM: I have always loved fairy tales and love stories, movies and the theatre, and so, with each of my collections I try to tell a different story, and it’s usually a love story. I feel
like I am directing a play with each collection because in my mind each model plays a different character - and there is always a queen at the end of the show. Also, I really like to experiment with form, different fabrics, and love paying attention to detail, and sometimes the details on my dresses are the most personal. In my work, I try to combine all the things that inspire me, and there’s s lot of them.
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a famous singer, to design her tour costumes, and the clothes she wears on stage and on red carpet. Would love to work for Kylie Minogue, because se is such a treasure, and such a style icon, and she looks like a fairy. Also I would love to work for JLo because she loves shiny, over the top glowing outfits, and she’s also a fashion icon, so I think that would be fun. How would you describe the Serbian fashion scene?
What are your personal interests outside of your work?
MM: There are really a lot of talented designers in Serbia. And also, I love the fact that we are so different from one another, and that you are able to see a bunch of different styles that are all good and interesting. But at the same time, fashion is not really appreciated in Serbia, it’s not a developed market, and people aren’t use to buying designer clothes. So I would say that Serbia is not the best place to work in fashion, but there are a lot of really talented people here.
MM: I really love books! I love reading, and I don’t think of it as something that is so much outside my work, since the books I read are a part of my inspiration, but yes, I really love books, and especially fantasy, and I plan on eventually writing an epic saga - in my early fifties. I love drawing and painting, and I also work as a freelance illustrator, and I feel like even in my illustrations I combine my love for fairytales, fantasy and pop divas.
MM: I once dreamed of working for a big fashion house, but later I realized that that is such a huge responsibility, and since I love pop divas so much, I think it would be a dream job for me to work for
Thank you!
What are you currently obsessed with, fashion- and otherwise? MM: I am a very obsessive person, right now I am obsessed with the new season of “Game of Thrones”, still pretty much obsessed with the pink showgirl costume John Galliano did for Kylie back in 2006; with the new Brandon Sanderson book, obsessively
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If you could design clothes for anyone in the world, who would it be and why?
listening to Lana Del Rey and Florence and the Machine, and as for fashion trends - I’m just really happy that unicorns are huge at the moment!
Discover Marko’s work at markomarosiuk.com 13
AC STYLE NOTEBOOK
The Attire Club Accessories Case Photos: Attire Club It is known that accessories can make or break and outfit and that acccessories you don’t wear, but carry (such as wallets, etc.) can have an impact not only on how you are perceived by others, but on how you relate to yourself. This is why it is always important to bave great accessories to rely on, regardless of season or time of day.
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A bow tie that features some color and texture can be a great thing to wear all day long: from work to eating at a nice restaurant and then enjoying a play or concert.
In the autumn, it’s essential to protect your phone with a strong sleeve or case.
Carrying just cards? Carry a card case instead of a wallet or money clip.
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A bracelet is a wonderful way of adding some visual interest to your arms, even if you are wearing a watch.
Sunglasses are a year-round accessory: put them on when you’re driving or hiking in order to relax your eyes.
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Carry your bills, cards and other slim essentials in a nice wallet.
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Always protect your glasses with a good, shock-resistant case. A little chain showing from behind your collar is a nice detail that can add a lot of visual interest to your look.
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A key chain will always make your keys easier to find.
With a dynamic pocket square, you can look cool and fun wherever you go.
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STYLE GUIDE
Sneakers: Three Things to Check Sneakers are shoes primarily designed to be worn during sporty activities. However, with the rise of the new “athleisure” trend, or the combination between sporty garments and classic clothes, they have entered people’s closets as casual, everyday shoes. And the fact is that sometimes sneakers truly do look really cool. On men, they often make them more dynamic and engaging and can make them even more powerful. And it’s no longer strange to see someone wear sneakers with casual suits. It’s all a fine balancing act, which is why you should pay close attention to the sneakers you buy. Design The design of your sneakers is a crucial part of the shopping process. To clearly identify the design you need, you should probably think of when and how you want to wear your sneakers. If you want them for strictly sporty activities, such
as running, hiking or playing football, you might want to go for a bulkier pair, with lots of “shielding” and buffer zones. This way, your feet will be protected from impact, rocks or other things that could make your feet tired or that may make you uncomfortable or cause bumps. If you want sneakers for everyday wear, you can go for something softer, more simple. Generally, everyday-wear sneakers should be smooth in design and less complicated than sporty sneakers. This way, you can wear your sneakers with anything from jeans and chinos to shorts. Find a dressier pair of sneakers, and you can even wear them with a casual suit or a sports jacket
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and jeans combo. For a safe bet, go for a pair that is neutral. Neutral colors such as beige, gray, white, black, khaki, tan, brown or dark blue go with anything and thus, you can wear them with any outfit. Often, simple, neutral slip-on sneakers can be a companion that you can wear from day to night and from the park to a restaurant.
Fabrics In terms of fabrics, there are three main choices you can opt for: leather, textile and synthetic.
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Leather sneakers are usually very stylish and very practical. Leather is comfortable, it molds on your feet in time and is highly durable. Textile sneakers are a great choice for everyday wear and for those who are on a limited budget. Natural textiles breathe well, which means that your feet will always be comfortable and fine. This type is not recommended if you know you’ll have to wear them in the rain, as water tends to slide through quite easily. Sometimes, textile sneakers are treated to be waterproof, but if you want to make sure you’ll get waterproof sneakers, you should in most cases opt for the leather version. 22
Synthetic sneakers are quite tricky. On one hand, synthetic materials are usually harm-
ful and bad for your skin, but certain synthetic fabrics have been developed for athlet-
ic purposes and can do your feet justice. This is why it is important to check the background of the synthetic material. Plain plastic or fake leather will probably overheat you and make your feet sweaty – not to mention they won’t last long and get dirty and smelly quite fast. On the other hand, if you find some cutting-edge technology, go for it and see how it works for you. Making the best choice in terms of sneakers will ensure you not only that you will feel comfortable, but that you will also look great as well. And that is what fashion is all about. Photos: Attire Club
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IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Fashion Designer
Claus Tyler
Claus Tyler is an fashion designer who captivated the hearts of many with his superb dresses and suits presented in Vienna during Fashion Week. His clothes shine like diamonds and expensive jewelry and are a great reinterpretation of the elegant balls and parties of the 1920s and 30s. This year, Claus has made a big move for his label and presented his latest collection in Paris and is movig to Germany to develop a studio that will be not only the HQ for his brand, but also a hub for creative people and artists.
“I would say I am probabily the gardener among fashion designers” Can you give us a little introduction on yourself: where you grew up, what your interests were, what your background is? Claus Tyler: During my childhood, my sense of style was influenced by the classicist architecture of Vienna which impacted my creative process and my plans for the future during the foundation phase. My years of study at a fashion college provided me with an important basic knowledge about textile techniques and developed my consciousness of quality. When I started working for several companies in the fashion industry, I realised that there was more to experience and thus kind of emancipated from Vienna, exploring metropolises 24
like Milan or Paris, which was to become an important setting for our collection. Probably, I would say I am probabily the gardener among fashion designers. I’m intrigued by floral designs, and dedicate a lot of time to the creation of our floral signature prints. I love to experiment with leaf- and flower-shaped embroidery or jacquard, to obtain breathtaking new textile creations. Your designs are very elegant and sophisticated; they give out a very deep vibe, but are extremely fresh at the same time. What is your creative process like? CT: It’s a continuous yearround process and it’s a lot of planning and selecting as
I usually have more ideas and projects in my mind than I can present in just two seasons per a year. I tend to collect impressions and ideas, bringing them to paper in the form of studies and sketches. I find my motives can be found in nature as well as architecture - which is to me is a kind of artificial nature created by human kind. After that, we start to create outstanding fabrics in partnership with the most talented weaving mills across Europe. It’s my heartfelt wish to create the designs and texture of the fabrics myself as it results in a crucial advantage for our clients.
Photo: © Stefen J. Wolf
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How do you balance the creative and the commercial aspects of fashion? CT: As I’ve mentioned before, the fabric development, creating patterns and experimenting with new trends is an important aspect of our collection. The studio line features unusual combinations of materials and surfaces. In our ready-to-wear collection, I try to interpret these innovations in a more wearable context to create amazing pieces for every day use. Our Studio Line did feature a complete collection of floral prints back in 2015 - 3-4 seasons later this became widely popular. Who is someone you would love to create a dress for?
Photo: © Yannik Steer
CT: Marlene Dietrich - she was one of the first well-documented superstars of the 20th century and I find her spirit still inspiring. She left
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her homeland for the purpose of fighting a cruel regime and appalling crimes during the 3rd Reich - which makes her truly heroic. What are you currently obsessed with, fashion- and otherwise? CT: We just moved into a new, bigger showroom located in Munich, and decorating it requires a lot of attention. It will not only become our headquarters, but a hotspot for fashionistas and the Arts. This season also marks the beginning of a new era in our company’s history, as we’ve de- Photo: © Sigrid Mayer cided to shift the venue of our runway presentation to Paris sessions laid a solid founFashion Week. We are thrilled dation for our company. by this opportunity, but of course such an endeavour also binds a lot of time and energy. My lifelong obsessions are fashion and plants, and luckily enough, these ob-
See more of Claus Tyler’s designs at claustyler.com
LievArts.com
Durable Art
FASHION & CULTURE
She's Got The Look Music videos have been a strong part of popular culture since they first appeared. They inspired and at the same time were inspired by the youth movements of the moment and influenced society at large. They introduced the so-called “MTV-style” editing, which means the viewer is not focused on a proposed action, but rather a visual discourse that conveys a mood and a state. Along with music videos came many beautiful people; as, as the old song goes, “video killed the radio star”. Many music videos feature gorgeous women, may they be a singer or a model who served as the muses behind the visuals and, sometimes, even the lyrics of the songs. Discover our roundup of the greatest ladies in music videos. 28
What I find is PLEASING ← Blondie - Heart of Glass Debbie Harry took the world by storm in the 1970s with her good looks, tunes and aloof vibe. Even though she’s always kept it simple, she managed to become a visual landmark for popular culture to this day.
To win the RACE? A prettier FACE! Brand new CLOTHES and a big, fat PLACE
↓ George Michael - Freedom ‘90 The most gorgeous woman to walk the Earth, Linda Evangelista was one of the models featured in George Michael’s iconic video. Her look has become timeless and a true standard for style.
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I think there’s something you should KNOW ← George Michael Freedom ‘90
German supermodel Tatjana Patitz was also featured in one of the world’s most beauty-packed 6 minutes and 36 seconds.
There’s someone else I’ve got to BE George Michael - Freedom ‘90 →
Christy Turlington also lip-synced to the video that gave us iconic lines such as “All we have to do now Is take these lies and make them true somehow” 30
Sometimes the CLOTHES do not make the MAN George Michael - Freedom ‘90 → Naomi Campbell because “All we have to see Is that I don’t belong to you And you don’t belong to me”
Pet Shop Boys - Domino Dancing ↑ The model featured in this cinematic video was Donna Bottman. Her looks, as well as the entire video are exquisite because of their timeless beauty, showing that true style is indeed outside of any time and place.
And now a STORM is breaking within my HEART 31
His wicked sense of HUMOR suggests exciting SEX ↑ Bjork - Venus as a Boy
The queen of cooks, Icelandic singer and musician Bjork is known just as much for her voice and lyrics as she is known for her looks.
I’m at my lowest boiling POINT Gwen Stefani ft. Akon- The Sweet Escape →
While she might be a little conventional, Gwen Stefani always appears to be enjoying herself and getting all dolled-up, which is why she’s so stunning. In the end, half of your style does come from the inside. 32
CHIAMAMI Blondie - Call Me → Not to obsess too much over Debbie Harry, but her look in the “Call Me” video could not have been passed by: it is simple, fresh and represents the image of a whole category of ladies.
↓ Westlife - Uptown Girl When Claudia Shiffer stepps into a restaurant and makes a reveal, there’s not much to add.
She knows what she wants from her TIME 33
It was a slap in the FACE ← Alanis Morisette - You Oughta Know
When Alanis Morisette is wronged, she’s not taking it easily. Her music feels honest and powerful, which is why so many fans around the world have made her album “Jagged Little Pill” be one of the most successful albums ever.
Alanis Morisette - Thank you → Showing that sometimes no clothes is the best look, Alanis Morisette is doing “The Secret” and doing it well.
The moment I let go of it, was the moment I got more than I could handle 34
It’s not the clothes; it’s how you wear them
IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Fashion Designer
Aleksandar Gavrić Aleksandar Gavrić is a Serbian menswear designer who focuses on dynamic sportswear that can be easily worn in many casual contexts. Today, the trend of being both sporty and ready for different activities is very powerful, so we wanted to gain more insight into it, as well as into Aleksandar’s passions and background. Discover our interview in the following pages.
“Everything changes incredibly fast” How did you start your career as a designer? Did you choose this line or work or did it choose you? Aleksandar Gavrić: My career begun pretty unexpectedly and accidentally. I’ve been interested in fashion since I was a boy. I remember when I was in first grade, everyone from my class was dressed by their moms, while I was cutting different shaped holes in my T-shirts and stained my jeans with acrylic colors. Everybody looked at me and probably thought I was crazy or something, but it turned out I somehow predicted last year’s trends all the way in 2007 right? Jokes aside, I always aspired towards having a unique style and I think that is one of the major characteristics of a fashion designer. However, I still think that 36
this work choose me! Even though I always loved fashion, I never thought or hoped that I would become a fashion designer. It just happened. I saw one interesting fashion show at Serbia Fashion Week in April 2014 which inspired me to create my own line and that’s how it all started. Who are your favorite designers and why? AG: Uh, to be honest, it is pretty hard for me to pick just a couple of designers whose work I like and appreciate, there are just so many talented and in some way genius people in the fashion world. However, if I have to pick, I will say I really like the work of Alexander Wang and Yoshi Yamamoto. Their creations are true examples of minimalism - every single piece is
perfectly designed in a way to show that “less really is more”. Also, both of them use quite a lot of black and white, which are my two favorite colors. What are your signature design elements? AG: I think that every designer has to have something that makes him stand out - which can be called his personal stamp. Think about it - when you see a garment that is all over the place with a bunch of golden details - it doesn’t take long for you to realize that is probably Versace. If you see a black dress with geometrical cuts and patterns you will instantly think of Alexander Wang, etc. When it comes to me, I use exclusively the colors black, white and gray - nothing more, nothing less. I use a lot of cotton, mesh, nylon,
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and rustle for my garments. Also, I like to add some signature details of mine such as hidden embroiled AG logo. This has brought me a lot of trouble actually because a lot of my clothing samples got lost in the SFW (Serbia Fashion Week) backstage because they didn’t have any tags. However, they were found really quickly because people recognize my work with ease (laugh). Who is your audience? Who are the men you design for? AG: My audience is young people, they are the ones who support me the most and understand my work and my expression the best. It is probably because we belong to the same generation and the age difference is not that big. However, even though my lines are urban and seem young people oriented, they are actually meant for everyone - men, women, old, young, happy and sad. Anyone who can see themselves reflected in my work is more 38
than welcome to join the Aleksandar Gavrić army (laugh). What do you think will be the next big trend in menswear?
ripped and stained or printed garments - those are the details that transform one piece of clothing into a piece of art.
AG: Now, this is a tough one that really had me thinking. The truth is, there is no way to predict anything, especially fashion trends and statements in the 21st century. Why? Because everything changes incredibly fast. One day something is a huge hit, tomorrow nobody even remembers it. This is why I think it is practically impossible to predict big trends, which is pretty fun if you ask me - you never know what to expect. I just love surprises! What are you currently obsessed with, fashion- and otherwise? AG: Currently, I am obsessed with oversized garments - they have always been and always will be a huge trend. Besides this, I am also a huge fan of
See more of Aleksandar’s designs at aleksandargavric.com
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AC STYLE NOTEBOOK
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Fashion
Fact or Fiction Photos: Attire Club Model: Adrian Samson
The world of style and fashion does have some unwritten rules, and while most rules are there for a good reason, others simply appear to have been taken from the “because I say so� shelf. While we encourage every man to challenge the limits and break the rules, it is important to know the motivation behind a rule and how to wear things correctly before you start breaking them, otherwise, you risk putting only weird looks together. When it comes to debunking some rules and seeing whether they are relevant or not, many guys appeal to online forums, which, even though they can be helpful at times, are not always the best source of information, as you never know whether the person replying to your comment is honest and, even if they are honest, whether they can back up what they are saying. Some people believe that rules are rules, but if there is no reason for a rule to exist, why should it? Let’s take a look at some of the most common cases of fashion regulations and see whether there is any reason for them or not.
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Myth #1: “Blue and green should never be seen / Black and brown will make you frown” Answer: Fiction You have heard these sayings so many times, with the “red and green” variation for the first one – that it seems to be a true rule. However, there are many old rules regarding clothes and colors, but today we all know that these rules are not always based on clear reasons. Take a look at some of the color combinations said not to work together and analyze why they actually work or not. Blue and green: The reasons why blue and green should not be worn together remains a mystery, but what we know is why they do go together: Blue and green are close to each other on the color wheel, which means that they are in an analog relation. Analog color combinations are combinations consisting on colors that lie close to each other on the color wheel. These combinations are very harmonious and are often found in nature. Just look at how great a blue sky looks above a beautiful, green forest. Why shouldn’t you use this palette in your outfits as well?
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Brown and black: The reason many people consider that black and brown don’t go together is because brown is on the dark end of the color spectrum and can be easily mistaken for black and therefore pairing the two would result in an outfit that lacks definition and which could appear muddy. This is something that could happen, but only if you choose the wrong shade of brown or a brown that lacks depth. A strong, powerful brown or a light almost chalky brown can work very well with black. 44
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Red and green: The reason why red and green are said not to go together well is because they are both very strong colors and might end up clashing. Red and green are complementary colors, meaning they lie on opposite sides of the color wheel and can therefore be matched very well together. Our recommendation is to tone down one of the colors to obtain a harmonious effect, as otherwise you risk looking like a Christmas ornament. Using this combination in a summery outfit will also tone down the Christmas effect. 46
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Myth #2: Black makes you look thinner Answer: Fact Black, and dark colors in general make you look thinner, but only under one condition: your clothes need to be have the right cut and to be tailored as good as possible for your body. Wearing an oversized or an undersized black shirt will make you look misbalanced. Colors and patterns have slight shaping effects, but only when the cut of the garment is impeccably cut. Never rely on colors, patterns or prints to give you shape! Shape and size are more important than color or embellishment. 48
Myth #3: Your tie should not match your pocket square Answer: Fact If you are wearing a tie and wish to add a pocket square as well, the rule is that the pocket square should not match your tie in fabric and shape. Therefore, if you are wearing a red cotton tie, you can match it for example with a dotted green silk pocket square. The reasoning behind the rule is that a pocket square should complement your tie. There is no point in adding two accessories of the same type twice. However, there are people who break this rule and look great doing it. Back in the day, your tie needed to match your pocket square, so wearing matching pieces is always going to be a reference to the past. 49
Myth #4: Suspenders and belts should not be worn together Answer: Fact Wearing both suspenders and a belt is a big sartorial faux-pas. The reason for this is because both the belt and the suspenders serve the same purpose, which is to hold your pants up. Wearing a belt and suspenders at the same time will only make you look afraid that you pants will fall off. To give you a better picture, wearing suspenders with a belt is the equivalent of wearing two blazers one over the other. 50
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IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Fashion Designer
Patrick de Pádua Originally from Liechtenstein, Patrick de Pádua is a designer living in Portugal. He focuses on sporty menswear, which can be easily worn by women too and has just released his latest collection. In this exclusive InCompany by Attire Club interview, Patrick shares insight into the way he sees clothes, his customers and more!
“I need to be able to look at the piece and want to wear it, otherwise something is not right” What can you tell us about your background? How did you grow up and how did you interest in fashion develop? Did you find fashion or did it find you? Patrick de Pádua: I was born in Vaduz, Liechtensten. In 2000, I moved to Portugal, which turned out to be a little complicated afterwards. In the first year of high school, in Portugal that I had to choose between science and mathematics, languages and communication, business and sociology or art. I chose art. I was focused on what was being taught, but I soon noticed 52
that fashion was what really interested me. I moved to Lisbon and applied to the Modatex School to study fashion design. I graduated from there in 2014. In March 2014, I was chosen by ModaLisboa to present my creations on the New Blood platform. As part of ModaLisboa’s partnership with FashionClash, I was chosen to present my collection to represent Portugal in the famous Modefestival in Maastricht in June 2015 and I even received an award from FashionClash. In March 2016, I was chosen by the New Blood jury to showcase my collections each Photo: David Velez
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season. In January 2017 I was named by Time Out Lisbon the Brand of the Year. I think I have found my way in the fashion world… What inspires you in your creative process? PP: Usually day-by-day things. I really love the streetwear concept. For me, it is naturally easy to create in that area. I can use an object as inspiration, or a line or pattern and then create around it: and to translate it into a piece of clothing that is beautiful and easy to wear. In the end, I need to be able to look at the piece and want to wear it, otherwise something is not right!
combine with traditional elements and military details. This is my signature. Basically, my clothes are fundamentally street and the silhouettes are often oversized.
line is mostly masculine, but this does not mean that women can’t wear it too – basically, if you enjoy oversized clothes, you are my customer.
Who are the men for whom you design? PP: I usually say that my clothes are rather unisex. My
How would you describe your aesthetic? PP: I like the streetwear and sportswear aesthetics, which I 54
Photo: David Velez
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When you think about your clothes, do you think of them more as works of art or functional items? PP: My designs are ready to wear pieces, it’s all about what works on a day-to-day basis. What I look for with my designs is that people feel comfortable and relaxed when they are wearing them. That is the most important thing for me. On what are you working at the moment? PP: Right now I am working at a school, teaching design and also work for a Portuguese label. The little time that I have left is dedicated to putting my collection together and to try to keep my name out there and make it culturally relevant. It’s not easy to concentrate only on my own label, because this would involve a big financial investment, which is why I can’t dedicate all of Photo: Elio Nogueira
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my time to my brand and work as much as I can to be able to do it.
Photo: Elio Nogueira
Outside of your work, what are your daily interests? PP: The little time I have outside my work I use to practice sports and to hit the road – I always like to discover new places and to do new things. It’s important to me to always be preoccupied with something.
To see more of Patrick’s designs, go to patrickdepadua.com
STYLE GUIDE
Emotion &Design: TALKS ON THE AESTHETICS OF WATCHES
In our time, everyone owns a tablet or another device which can let them know what time it is, with enough precision to catch a plane or a bus. This is the reason why watches have been redefined and designers have discovered new ways to express luxury and style through their pieces. Watches today have become more elegant, more subtle and refined and are not just timepieces anymore; they are veritable style statements and means of expressing one’s personality. Design has the power to transmit messages and to create emotion. It does not serve just as a case for a function; it never has. Brands and designers compete and to create unique pieces that convey the messages of luxury and refined 58
goods that their brands represent. But what is it that makes a quality watch different than a knockoff you might wonder. In this article, we take a look at the elements that, if done together right, lead to the creation of a highly elegant piece that won’t fail to compliment your look.
Visual factors There are three factors that compose the features of any piece. These are the visual factor, the tactile and the aesthetic one. These factors of a product are the ones that have the biggest power on drawing the consumer, but not the whole power (prices, marketing strategy and other elements
have an impact on the buyer as well). The visual elements included in a design are: The line. The lines, respectively the outlines of a product are the things that constitute its overall feel. The lines can be rounded or square, long or short, combined or single and they are the ones that set the vibe of the whole product. When you look at the watch, you can notice its line and the way different types of lines are combined: a well-designed watch has a combination of lines that leads to a harmonious whole. One of the key words in design is balance: if a timepiece is misbalanced or feels out of shape, it probably really is. Always go with pieces that look as if all their components go together. Ripoffs usually fail at having proportional lines and volumes: they simply imitate something without checking any dimensions, angles or a sense of continuity.
The Golden Afternoon by DeWitt
The Universo Tourbillon by Vasto
The color. Color is described by hue, chroma and value. Hue is defined by the simple words we use to define a color: purple, green, blue, red, etc. Chroma or saturation is the dominance or strength of a color. Thirdly, the value or lightness of a color is used to describe the overall intensity to how dark or light a color is. A true master knows how to mix colors, how to mix shines, how different metals go together and how they work together with other fabrics, such as leather or string. The texture. The texture refers to the way a certain surface feels: whether it is rough or smooth. This factor is extremely important in fashion, as people come in close contact with their clothes and accessories, and therefore, the surfaces need to feel just right. Because we are speaking of watches, you should think of how important both the main part and the band of a watch are. If the leather or the metal that comes in contact with
your skin does not feel right, you are certainly not going to wear that watch more than once. The shape. The shape is the two-dimensional geometrical form of an object. It’s what we see when we look at it from a distance and from a single angle. The form. The form is the three-dimensional version of the product: it’s what we see when we go around a product and look at it from different angles. The form of a product is one of the deciding factors when we choose whether to purchase something or not. This is why today online shops offer several pictures of their products or one from an unusual angle or allow you to go around a piece digitally, instead of using a simple, frontal photo. The size and proportion. Size and proportion are very important as we would not be able to make sense of the world, should we not be aware of how big things real59
The Dragon Tourbillon by Louis Moinet
ly are. But that’s not what is most important here. When it comes to these factors, it’s not the numbers in themselves that count, but how they are in relationship with other elements. A watch should be proportionate to one’s arm; it should also be in the size range of what we know a watch should be. If you make a watch that’s too small, nobody will wear it.
Design and association
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The thing about associations is that they are quite different from one person to another. Even though some associations are almost general, with few exceptions, the way in which we associate things can also be very personal and different, as our visual backgrounds tend to differ so much. Our connection and experiences connected to a certain thing also tend to have a big impact on the way we interpret designs. This is why it can sometimes be risky for designers to opt for strange associations as they can’t be sure what the response will be to their product.
A design can also express function. This is something very often found in watches. Since today most people have phones that indicate the time, watches have become more a fashion statement than a utility good. That is why watches need to express their meaning; such as quality materials, careful craftsmanship and an appreciation of a combination of the two. This is a good reason watches are such amazing accessories: they are functional, but they are also the expression of the wearer’s admiration for a well-done object. Watches today have changed half of their function: they are timepieces which indicate the time with an amazing precision, but they are also indicators of one’s personality, wealth and in some parts of the world, status. It is amazing to observe how an object that had an informative purpose and was adorned to express the wearer’s position has become a widespread indicator of elegance, an indicator of comprehension of style and an acquaintance with fine workmanship and finesse.
Design and function The visual element of a design will always be determined by the function of the object. A very appealing product that does not work very well won’t be appreciated, and on the other hand, a product that is simply functional but not aesthetically attractive will not be appreciated either.
YRead this article with a song!
When it comes to shapes, lines and overall design, we always use our involuntary imagination and because of our visual culture and background we always tend to make associations. The human mind is designed in such a way that it always associates new things with elements with which it is familiar. This is why it is said that indigenous people in America did not see the European ships approaching, as they had nothing with which to associate them. The association process is not a complicated one; if we try to go too deep, we might miss the forest for the trees.
Sometimes, certain shapes are associated with certain colors. For example water is associated with the color blue, even though water is not blue. Something resembling waves will therefore also be associated with the color blue. This way, designers can play with references and surprise us. That’s somewhat risky though, as you can’t know how some people will react to, let’s say, orange waves.
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SECRETS OF FASHION
Odd Trends Past of the
A fashion trend is a new design or styling manner that is accepted by a large population and is followed enthusiastically for a longer or shorter time span. Following a trend is a way of connecting to your peers and affirming your place within a group. Once the perception of the novelty is gone, a trend fades and is usually replaced by another, which is in most cases a counter-reaction to the initial trend. Trends have always been around, and, even though the fashion industry was not what it is today before the 19th century, this does not mean that trends did not exist and that men and women were not following the latest fashions, even though these were, in most cases, reserved to the high class, who could afford investing in clothing and styling and who’s members had the time to do so. In this roundup, we are taking a look at some bizzare trends from past eras.
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Italian chopines, 1550-1650 Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Herman Delman, 1955
Italian Chopines If you thought the platform shoe appeared in the 1960s, think again! During the Renaissance, Venetian women, especially courtesans wore a type of shoe called the “chopine”. These served as an overshoe that protected a lady’s real shoes and dress from dust and mud, which were very frequent on streets of Italy during the 1500s. Chopines were made mostly from cork or wood and were covered with velvet or brocade. And, just like in the case of huge wigs, these shoes became a status symbol, ranking the woman who wore the highest heel on highest position in society. According to historical sources, some heels were over 20 inches / 51 cm high. Obviously, not every woman can walk on such high platforms, so the chopine-wearing crowd used to be accompanied by a servant on whom they could lean. However, Fabritio Caroso, an Italian dancing master, wrote that a proper lady should be able to dance carelessly regardless of the shoes she is wearing. It was a requirement in those days to be able to dance in chopines if you wanted to call yourself a real courtesan.
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Big, powdered wigs Just like in the case of heels, the women of today owe their wig wearing to the male aristocrats of 17th century Europe. In those times, kings, nobles, composers and other important men could be identified by wearing blond or white curly wigs. These were often adorned with bows or ribbons.
Portrait of a Gentleman by Nicolas de Largillierre Early 1700’s
This trend goes back to King Louis XIII of France who was losing his hair and was ridiculed by the English monarch. To place himself above any other king and remain in that position, Louis decided to wear a wig so that
he could prove he was the most virile king. It wasn’t long until this unconventional style became a fashion statement around the royal court, as most of the king’s men started wearing wigs, regardless of whether they were bald or not. It is important to understand that in those times, whatever a monarch did or said was something that was undisputed and it was a crime not to approve of the king. And, since France was the style epicenter of Europe, the wig trend took off across the rest of Europe like wildfire. Soon enough, the aristocrats were trying to outdo one another and the wigs got bigger and bolder. The result of this trend was the appearance of a whole industry of wig makers, who founded their guild in 1665. It was not long before these wigs were such a strong part of the European culture that you had to wear one if you wanted to climb up in society. By the late 1700s, men used to pour starch-based powder over their wigs so they would be as white as possible. 65
Fake eyebrows Speaking of eyebrows, let’s take a look at another way in which women used to make their eyebrows pop back in the day. This time, we are looking at European women from the 18th century, who used to wear false eyebrows. These were made from mouse skin and were made most likely to contrast with the very pale skin which was in style at the time. For those who did not have access to mouse skin, the alternative to dark eyebrows was using black-lead to paint on a well-defined brow. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu wrote in a 1716 description of the women who went at the theatre that: “All the ladies have… snowy foreheads and bosoms, jet eye-brows and scarlet lips.” Mouse pelt eyebrows were so embedded in the culture of the time, that there were even poems about them, such as this one:
A 1780 Ralph Earl portrait of Ester Boardman, a lady who wore mouse eyebrows
“On little things, as sages write, Depends our human joy or sorrow, If we don’t catch a mouse tonight, Alas! No eyebrows for tomorrow.” The downside, and what probably led to the death of this trend was that these glued eyebrows used to fall easily and you can only imagine how a embarrassing it must have been for a lady if she entered the theatre with two mouse brows and came out with only one. And, besides worrying that their brows might fall off, women also needed to be careful with the cats around the house, as poet Matthew Prior wrote in a funny 1718 poem:
“Helen was just slip into bed Her eyebrows on the toilet lay Away the kitten with them fled As fees belonging to her prey.” 66
Portrait of Mary of Burgundy 1457 – 1482
No eyebrows At one point in time, more precisely during the 15th century, it was trendy for women to shave their eyebrows off completely. But the plucking didn’t stop there. Aristocratic women from that era used to also pluck back their hair to obtain a more pronounced forehead.
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Patches Patches were initially used by Romans, who wanted to emulate the goddess Venus who was said to have a beauty mark. However, wearing patches as a fashion statement was something that came into being in the 16th century in England and lasted until the 19th. Most people today are not familiar with what patches were and it definitely seems something strange to understand. Basically patches were small pieces of velvet, black silk or fine leather that were glued onto specific parts of the face to highlight certain features or to resemble a beauty mark. For example, one could wear a patch by the corner of the mouth, the corner of the eye or around the temples. At one point, the place where you would glue your patch was an indicator of a message: for example, a patch glued above
Portrait of a lady with a mask, unknown painter 19th century
the lip meant that you were flirty, a patched placed near the eye meant that you were provocative and a patch sticked on a wrinkle was an indicator of a cheerful personality. Patches were also used to cover scars and pimples. Of course, there were a lot of people who used to exaggerate and wear too many patches, which resulted in them looking like they were covered with flies. In fact, in France and England, patches were called “mouches”, which is the French word for flies, and in Russia they were called “mushka”. This fashion trend (and addiction for some), was also used to denote political views. According to a 1711 issue of “The Spectator”, “Politically minded dames used their patches as party symbols: the Whigs patching on the right, and the Tories on the left side of their faces, while those who were neutral, decorated both cheeks.” During the 19th century, both men and women used to wear patches, which could now be found in many shapes, such as square, heart, star, moon, and even as a coach and horses. This trend lasted until the 1850s, when, after centuries of being in style it wore out and was put aside.
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LievArts.com
Art Hoc
ART & CULTURE AGENDA
Notes on Notes Photos: Attire Club
This July, The Visio-Musica Cultural Association in partnership with Aegeria Artists e.U., supported by the Brasov City Hall have organized the 70
inaugural edition of the Transylvanian International Piano Competition. Attire Club was a partner of the event.
The contest was adressed to young piano talents with ages between 7 and 28, who competed for exciting prizes (the grand prize consisted of 1500
euros, represenation, concert opportunities and more) in four categories. And the competition was indeed harsh, as around 60 contestants from 15 countries, including Austria, Taiwan, Japan, Bulgaria, Switzerland tried to impress the judges of the contest held in the mountainous Romanian town of Brasov. The jury was composed of pianists and teachers with a vast experience in stage performing, teaching and whose talents are captivating audiences from around the world. These were Stefan Arnold, Ioan-Dragos Dimitriu, who is also the Artistic Director of the contest, Antoinette van Zabner, Pavel Eliashevich, Corina Ibanescu and Paola Sorrentino. The event was young and upbeat, as dynamism and a positive spirit lie at the core of the contest’s values. The auditions and the finals for the 18 years+ cateogry were also streamed online and watched by people from different countries. In the end, the grand prize of the TIPNOC went to Botac Alexandru-Cadmiel. This edition of the Transylvanian International Piano Competition has reached its goal to start off a new revival of the Transylvanian and, more particulary, Brasovian cultural scene, which was a
true center for classical music. TIPNOC was in fact the first international piano competition held in this city in more then 25 years. The stepping stone has been set and was embraced by many art lovers from the local scene and the world at large. The event brought together young contestans from around the world, featured exciting recitals and offered a series of impressive przies. It all goes to show the charm that top-shelf cultural events have and the universal strength and appeal of classical music. We were at the event and shot a series of portraits of the eight finalists, as chosen by the jury. The photographs were taken during rehersals or right after the musician’s performance in the final round.
Lear more about TIPNOC at tipnoc.com
Patria Hall
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Botac Cadmiel
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Lee Ting-I
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Alberti Maxime
Shemchuk Ivan
Manea Mihaela
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Diaconu Ionut
Yildiran Orcun
Kawasaki Sawaka
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Yildiran Orcun
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Great fashion is the basis for great style
IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Fashion Designer
Artem Shumov Russia is becoming a strong voice in fashion and it definitely deserves a bright spotlight and a close look, as more and more great style is coming from here. Artem Shumov is a Russian designer originally from St. Petersburg who has caught our attention and the world’s with his impressive collections of men’s clothes. His aesthetic is all about mixing styles and creating clothes that work in a variety of environments and settings. Artem’s focus is also to create comfortable clothes, in which men can feel their best. In this exclusive InCompany by Attire Club interview, Artem shares his thoughts on his inspiration, his designs, his background and more.
“My parents shared a lot of their wisdom with me” What can you tell us about how you grew up? Artem Shumov: I was born in Perestroika, it was a difficult time for most of our country. Fortunately, my family is very kind and lovely. My parents shared a lot of their wisdom with me, I am very thankful for having them in my life! How did you start working in fashion? AS: It has been my dream since I was 4 years old. Then, when I was studying at the uni, I was lucky enough to work for two greatest de78
signers in St. Petersburg. They are the smartest people I have ever met in my life!
Where do you find yourself on the Russian fashion scene?
Where do you find your inspiration in terms of themes and aesthetics?
AS: Menswear design.
AS: In Russia. We have a very rich cultural and historical background. There are so many stories, so much art and music.
Your autumn-winter 2017 collection featured models with blood-like makeup on their faces? AS: Right.
How do you describe your designs?
What did you want to communicate through that?
AS: Interesting clothes hidden in a casual style.
AS: That collection is about the Russian Revolution of 1917. I wanted to explore those times. Civil War hap-
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pened shortly after, it cost a lot of blood of common people. How was the collection received? AS: The audience was very kind to me. I think it was OK. What do you think will be the next big trend in menswear? AS: Comfort. And masculinity.
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What are your current interests and hobbies outside of fashion? AS: I like sports and studying Chinese. It is super interesting!
To see more of Artem’s designs, go to artemshumov.com
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Current Obsessions For Him and Her Edition Necklace by FAINA Price: €399 / $470 Photo: Viki No Viki faina.at
Etui “Eco” by SO LCH LD Price: €99 / $116 so-lch-ld.com
Dress by VIKTOR & ROLF Price: Undisclosed viktor-rolf.com
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Top and Pants by MAIKEN K Price: Undisclosed maiken-k.at
Fluffy Laser Cats Sweater by BREAKING ROCKS Price: €79 / $93 breakingrocksclothing.com
Joss Wallet Case by MIKE GALELI Price: €49.90 / $59 mikegaleli.com
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TRAVEL & CULTURE
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G for
The cradle of Western civilization, Greece is a sunny country that has become a strong touristic destination. With a rich history and culture, this Balkan country is a destination for those who love good food, good beaches and to dance the night away. Photos: Attire Club
Greece
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Greek landscape
Nature of Greece GREECE HAS MORE THAN 3,000 ISLANDS and islets, of which about 170 are populated. ABOUT 20% of the surface of the country is represented by the islands. THE LARGEST ISLAND of Greece is Crete. GREECE HAS A POPULATION of about 10 million inhabitants. THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN in Greece is Mount Olympus, which has over 50 peaks, the highest reaching 2917 meters / 9570 feet. 86
GREECE HAS ON AVERAGE MORE THAN 250 DAYS OF SUNSHINE; or three thousand sunny hours each yeara year, which makes it one of the sunniest countries in the world and the most sunny in Europe. THERE ARE ESTIMATED TO BE AROUND 120,000,000 OLIVE TREES IN GREECE, and some of the olive trees from the 13th century are still producing olives today.
BECAUSE OF ITS EXTREMELY DIVERSE GEOGRAPHY, ranging from high mountains to sandy beaches, Greece has one of the largest varieties of wildlife in Europe.
The Church of Saint Demetrius, or Hagios Demetrios in Thessaloniki
Culture of Greece THE GREEKS REFER TO THEIR COUNTRY AS HELLAS or Ellada and its official name is the Hellenic Republic. The English word “Greece” derives from the Latin Graecia, which was used by the Romans, and literally means “The land of the Greeks.” THE CAPITAL, ATHENS, has been inhabited continuously for over 7000 years. GREECE IS THE WORLD’S LEADING PRODUCER OF SEA SPONGES, especially in the sea off Kalymnos Island.
THE NATIONAL CHEESE of Greece is Feta, which is eaten more in Greece than any other country. ABOUT SEVEN PER CENT of the world’s marble comes from Greece. ACCORDING TO MULTIPLE SURVEYS, the Greeks are the most sexually active nation in the past decade. According to researchers, Greeks have sex 164 times a year, while Brazilians rank second with 145 times. ZORBA THE GREEK, a film starring Anthony Quinn, showed how much the Greek
people love to dance and break plates. There are more than four thousand different traditional dances from the various regions of the country and this number accounts for only the officially recognized ones. EVEN THOUGH THE CHINESE could challenge this honor, according to the archaeological finds we have at this moment, Greek is considered the oldest written language still in existence with nearly five thousand years of continuous usage.
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The Ionian Sea
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Hotel in Kalabaka
EVEN THOUGH SUICIDE RATES have risen, Greece remains the country with the lowest suicide rate in the European Union and second in the Western world behind Malta. Before the economic crisis, however, only three countries on a global level (Nepal, Grenada, and Saint Kitts and Nevis) were behind Greece.
GREECE IS THE COUNTRY WITH THE MOST archeological museums in the world, over 100. WHEN THE OLYMPIC GAMES STARTED, in 776 BC, there was a signle event, namely a short sprint competition. Only after the 15th edition, the sporting events started to be more diverse.
THE WINNERS OF THE OLYMPIC GAMES did not receive gold, silver and medals as they do today, but olive wreaths for the winner and possibly some money or jars filled with olive oil and celery sticks. It was more practical if you think about it.
Meteora
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FASHION & TECHNOLOGY: IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Fashion Innovator
Dr. Carmen Hijosa Dr. Carmen Hijosa is the CEO of Ananas Anam, where she developed an innovative, sustainable and natural non-woven textile called Piñatex®, which is made from the fibers of pineapple leaves. Piñatex is the result of seven years of work and research. The fabric is a by-product of the pineapple harvest of the Philippines and, besides its fashion uses, it is supporting the local economy by providing an additional source of income for farmers, without involving the need for any other extra land, water, fertilizers or pesticides. The fabric can be used in a variety of ways, which could have a strong impact on the ways clothes and accessories are produced. Discover our interview.
“Piñatex® is an entirely new textile” Can you describe how and why you started creating a new fabric made from pineapple leaves? Dr. Carmen Hijosa: In the 1990s I was commissioned by the Design Centre Philippines to suggest improvements to their leather export market. While researching this industry I saw firsthand the extent of the toxic impact of mass leather production, and was compelled to find another option that could both provide both a sustainable leather alternative and opportunity for social and economic development. The abundance of nat90
ural fibers provided great opportunity to experiment, and the qualities of the pineapple fiber - being strong, light and flexible - made it suitable to use as a non-woven mesh. What makes it different from other pineapple-based textiles made in the Philippines? CH: Piñatex® is an entirely new textile. Unlike the traditional Filipino pineapple-fiber weavings, Piñatex® is a non-woven material, able to be commercially produced and suitable for use as an alternative to leather.
In short, how is the material achieved? CH: The process of creating Piñatex® happens in stages. One, the removal of the fiber from the pineapple leaf, through a process called decortication. The leftover biomass can be used as a natural fertilizer or biofuel. Two, degumming the fiber. Three, creating a non-woven mesh from the fiber. And four, textile finishing, creating the final product that is used by designers.
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What are the main uses for Pi単atex速? CH: Footwear, accessories, clothing, interior furnishing and automotive interiors. How would you like to develop the fabric in the coming years? CH: We are currently working towards creating an entire-
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ly cradle to cradle version of Pi単atex速, using all natural dyes and finishes. At the moment, the base mesh is compostable, but to withstand the needs of the market the finish currently contains petroleum derived elements. However, no PVC or harmful chemicals are used throughout the process. We look forward to achieving an entirely biodegradable finish!
What do you think are at the moment the top innovations in terms of textiles? CH: There are many exciting developments in textile innovation, from advancing technology to recycle plastic and extrude new filaments, such as with the Parley Ocean Plastic, to bio-chemical developments that reduce the need for the use of harmful chemicals, to other textiles created from the waste of food agriculture, such as Orange Fiber and Vegea, creating textiles from citrus juice and the wine industry respectively.
Do you think that what we call today “innovative textiles” will replace some of the mainstream textiles we use today, such as synthetic petroleum-based fabrics? CH: Yes, I believe so! As people become more aware of the impact of many of the ‘mainstream’ textiles we have been using to date there will be a conscious need for more sustainable alternatives.
For more on Pinatex, go to ananas-anam.com 93
From the Anelia Peschev show
A REPORT ON THE PARTY AND THE GUESTS
Vienna Fashion Week 2017 The 9th edition of the MuseumsQuartier Vienna Fashion Week took place in the Austrian capital this September, as Austrian and international designers took on the catwalk to showcase their latest creations. The event featured over 50 shows across six days, which were held in a tent at Vienna’s famous MuseumsQuartier, or the Museum Neighborhood. 94
From the Anelia Peschev show
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From the Juan-Carlos Gordillo show Model: Petra Sivakova
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Vali Cioban and her collection
Backstage
Linda Charoenlab of Lalalove (middle) and friends
From the Lalalove show
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From the Smaranda Almasan show
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Backstage
From the Munzaa show
From the Black Sugar show From the Richard Rozbora show
From the Paul Direk X Pitour show
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From the Pitour show
From the Iarocheski show Backstage
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Martina Mueller of Callisti presenting her designs
From the Mathis show
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Fashion Ahead Drawn Clothes by
Elvira ‘t Hart Elvira ‘t Hart is a fashion designer who creates wearable drawings. This might sound odd at first, but it is actually a very cool process and concept. Her designs are not just based on drawings, they are literally drawn. The sketches are cut out by laser in leather or other fabrics. Leaving all the characteristics of the original sketch intact, like outlying lines or parts that are not completely colored in. A sketch doesn’t have to be finished to show what is depicted, it leaves something to the imagination.
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Her most famous piece, “The Drawn Jacket” has been featured in 2016 in the exhibition #Techstyle, an exhibtion on the use of technology in fashion curated by Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. Elvira was also invited to showcase her work in fashion fairs in Milan and Paris. While the piece is definitely an expo item, Drawn Jackets can be ordered on her website in your own measure. Another piece, the “Drawn Bra” was worn by Lady Gaga. Are her pieces art or are they functional garments? According to Elvira, she tries to achieve both. In her artist statement, she says “I’d like to make interesting pieces that belong as much in a closet as well as being framed on the wall like an artwork.”
For more, you can go to Elvira’s website at elvirathart.com 103
THE ATTIRE CLUB MOOD DIARY 104
Our mood board as a visual journal
HUGE 1700s WIGS 105
Fruit Stall 1777 published by Matthew Darly
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Mlle des Faveurs a la Promenade a Londres 1770s
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The Flower Garden 1777
Le stratageme Amoureux, ou la toilette a la mode 1770s
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The Green Stall 1777
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This is Something New 1777
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AC WORLD
New Attire Club Bow Ties For the past season, we have created a series of pictures that propose a three-layer story, where the furthest layer from the camera is a rather gray and uncertain layer, the world, upon which people try to build their lives. We realize that today, to make something that’s uplifting for the soul, one needs to have a strong shell and a great layer of protection from the outside. This is why the three bow ties we are presenting: the Fabio, the Duardo and the Florentino feature harder and darker materials on the outside and softer, lighter materials on the inside part of the design.
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LievArts.com
An Artwalk
QR Code Glossary
Discover the websites featured in this issue!
Marko Marosiuk u markomarosiuk.com Page 13
Ton der Jugend u tonderjugend.com Page 61
Claus Tyler u claustyler.com Page 26
Wiener Konzerthaus u konzerthaus.at Page 61
Liev Arts u lievarts.com Pages 27, 69, 113
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Transylvanian International Piano Competition u tipnoc.com Page 71
Aleksandar Gavrić u aleksandargavric.com Page 38
Artem Shumov u artemshumov.com Page 80
Patrick de PĂĄdua u patrickdepadua.com Page 56
FAINA u faina.at Page 82
Baselworld u baselworld.com Page 57
SO LCH LD CLOTHING u so-lch-ld.com Page 82
Viktor & Rolf u viktor-rolf.com Page 82
Maiken K u maiken-k.at Page 83
Breaking Rocks Clothing u breakingrocksclothing.com Page 83
Mike Galeli u mikegaleli.com Page 83
Ananas Anam u ananas-anam.com Page 93
Elvira ‘t Hart u elvirathart.com Page 103
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See you online! AttireClub.org facebook.com/attireclub twitter.com/attireclub pinterest.com/attireclub instagram.com/attireclub attireclub.tumblr.com shop@ attireclub.tictail.com
16th century sculptured wood horse Painter: René d’Allemagne 1902, Histoire des Jouets
IChAC