A view inside the rotating restaurant located at the top of the Danube Tower in Vienna, Austria Photo: Attire Club
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Editorial: The Goal of the Sage
I
t is said that September is the January of the fashion calendar. In a way, fashion follows the old tradition of starting fresh in the fall… just like the school year, the old Celtic New Year or the Jewish New Year. For some reason, fall does seem
to be a new beginning, we find ourselves at a significant change, which marks many changes in our lives. One of these changes is, of course, the way we dress. Autumn is a great season for fashion, especially early autumn. It is not too cold and not too warm and, thus, it is just the right moment to wear jackets, to play with layers and to change it up several times a day. A new start is always an appropriate moment to contemplate on the idea of time. What is changing, what is not? In the book of Ecclesiastes, it is said that “What has been will be again,/ what has been done will be done again;/ there is nothing new under the sun.” The cyclicity of life is for sure something that autumn speaks plenty of. If we look close enough and try to connect with the things around us, we may find that time and space whisper their secrets to us in the in-between spaces during the autumn. Today, in the modern context, space has become time, as the web makes it easy for us to have or to access things, so that we don’t need to go somewhere to find them, but this means that we need to invest time to get the things we want. These days, as many people are stuck in their homes, space seems to take a whole new meaning. Maybe, what autumn teaches us is that if we are going to be introspective and if we take time to analyze our life, this for sure must mean that we should be more present in the moment, as otherwise, we will try to break down something that is empty of ourselves. It’s all about the moment. The Attire Club Team
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InCompanyt AttirehClub “To good men! May we know them, May we raise them, May we be them!�
Released by FRAQUOH AND FRANCHOMME Chief Executive Officer Dan Dimitriu Creative Director Iosif Trif Write letters to the editor iosif.trif@attireclub.org Visit our website attireclub.org Contact & advertising office@attireclub.org Address Based in Abu Dhabi, UAE & Vienna, Austria Telephone 0097 150 12 801 73 Follow us Facebook: facebook.com/attireclub
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“Does this go with that? A fair affair.” Photo: Attire Club
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Contents
Autumn 2020
EDITORIAL The Goal of the Sage Learning about the future from the past. u3 TRAVEL ALBUM Tower Power A decorative tower in the town. u 10 COLOR STORIES Purple The color of magic. u 12 METAFASHION Fashion as Self-Discovery Using fashion to discover who you are. u 14 IN THEIR OWN WORDS Costume Master Franรงois Echalier A blast from the past. u 18 FASHION WORLD Where are the Fashion Bloggers? The latest from a blogosphere in crisis. u 24
STYLE GUIDE Success in the Home Office: Dress Code or Baggy Look? The public home dress code. u 26 FASHION WORLD Virtual Runway Shows for the Spring-Summer 2021 Season: A Turbulent Matter Is your tablet the next cultural hot spot? u 28
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LIVING IN THE 2010s The Time of Social Media and Selfies A look back at the decade. u 30 AC LOOK BOOK The Attire Club ROCAMBOLSESCO Portfolio #RCMBLSC. u 40 IN THEIR OWN WORDS Blogger Mark St. James Catching up with the Canadian blogger. u 52 THE ATTIRE CLUB LIBRARY Must-Read Articles from Our Website Just in case you missed it. u 54 PHOTO Evenings in St. Moritz The land of furs and champagne. u 55 STYLE GUIDE Leather Jacket Care: This Is How You Make Worn Leather Clean and Soft Again Leather can look excellent for a long time if you know how to treat it. u 56 TRAVEL ALPHABET S for Slovakia Discover a beautiful Central-European country. u 58 CURRENT OBSESSIONS Aston Marins Everywhere So much automotive elegance around us! u 62 STYLE NOTEBOOK Our Little Autumn Book Scrapbooking the fall. u 64 FASHION AND TECH Signs from the Future: Key Focus Areas for Fashiontech What’s coming up? u 74 attireclub.org |
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METAFASHION Bo Gosse The man of the 2010s. u 76 Fashion World Good Clothes Are Rare: Dimoral in Review Our take on the brand. u 81 The Attire Club Mood Diary Equestrian Elegance Love for horses. u 82 Stories from Our Web Instagram Snapshots Are you following the big AC? u 91 A Report on the Party and the Guests A Festival to Remember: TamTam 2020 How a festival happened during the global crisis. u 94 Modern Curiosities Going On’s Insights or just nutty observations? u 100 Cinema Culture Movies for the Autumn Fashion docus and more. u 102 AC World From the Attire Club Style Portfolio Archive: The Academician Bow Tie Style by AC. u 106
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Read the contents with a song!
QR CODE GLOSSARY Discover More! Use your phone or tablet to scan the QR codes leading to the websites of the brands and people from this issue. u 108
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The Smart Magazine Attire Club is offering a complete men’s style, fashion and lifestyle experience, centered around the AC website. To discover our universe and over 1000 articles that will offer you the tools to develop your style, as well as fashion inspiration and cultural insights and to interact with us and be part of our community, visit us online.
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T R A V E L
A L B U M
From the Attire Club Travel Archive
Tower Power
The lighthouse on the Donauinsel (Danube Island) is located near the ReichsbrĂźcke (the Empire Bridge) on the side of the New Danube near the city in the Sunken City in Vienna. The building, which was built as a lighthouse, was originally a stage backdrop and never actually operated as a lighthouse. Photo: Attire Club
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From the Online Edition
Attire Club is the ultimate resource for complete style guides, fashion inspiration and cultural insights that provide you with the tools you need for a continuous style development. Geared towards the sharp modern man, Attire Club offers practical “you can do it, here’s how” articles that will make you not only look better, but also feel better and more confident. With a groundbreaking new concept, AC is the essential online publication that brings out the best in who you are.
C O LO R
S TO R I E S
Purple was long considered a symbol of power. In Roman times, only the emperor was allowed to wear robes dyed with purple. The senators had to be content with a purple ribbon on their toga. As with the Roman emperors, wearing purple robes was a status symbol of power for the German emperors. Since the dye could only be obtained with great effort - to obtain one gram of purple, it takes 8000 purple snails. Purple was so rare back in the day, that in paintings it was used to mark the most important person and was generally reserved for deities. Purple was also seen as an aid to contemplation and spiritual development; Leonardo Da Vinci once wrote that meditation and prayer is ten times more powerful while sitting in the violet light shining through a stained glass window. Photo: Attire Club
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From AC’s Social Media
Attire Club is 360 degrees experience and our readers can stay updated with us on every major social media platform, where we share articles, photos and more!
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M E TA FA S H I O N
FASHION AS
SELF-DISCOVERY Text / Photos: Attire Club
Fashion can be a path to self-discovery. This may sound odd, but it is true. Over the last 20 years or so, many scholars have studied the relation between clothing and the individual; both on a personal and a societal level. What they have discovered was what was obvious and in plain sight, namely that our clothes, accessories and our overall styling (hair, etc.) shape not just the ways in which others perceive us, but the ways in which we see ourselves as well. So, how can fashion be a tool for self-discovery? attireclub.org |
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you choose the brown one, ask yourself why you prefer that one and not the red one. In this case, the answer will come out quickly. It may be something like “the red one is too flashy”. This is an honest answer and can open the door to other questions, such as “why don’t I want to be flashy?” This answer can be completed by another question, which makes the conversation with yourself even more personal, namely “what do you think of flashy people?” or “why don’t I want to stand out in this context?” These questions will give you quite some insight into how you regard yourself, where you position yourself, etc. If your answers are honest, there are no right or wrong answers. Of course, there will come a time when you can’t answer those questions anymore. In this case, you may ask a friend, maybe they can give you some insight or put it away for a while. Make decisions based on instinct and maybe in some time, the answers will come. You can even keep a diary about your journey of self-discovery. The key is to be honest when you answer the giant question of “why?” For example, when a woman says that she “wants to feel sexy”; it is very important that the answer to the question of “why do you want to feel sexy?” to be given with straightforwardness. In many cases, people will decide that they don’t like fashion, that they are not interested in it and that they simply wear
T
what “comes next in the drawer”. Surely, these people should first analyze why they have the things they have. Secondly, he things we wear and the way we style ourselves have a tremendous impact on our lives. Firstly, they shape the way in which others see us, which can, of course lead to positive or negative relations, may they be personal or professional. But,
more than that, the things we put on ourselves contour to the story we tell us about ourselves. In many ways, clothes shape the thoughts we have about ourselves (they are of course not the only things that do this), which means that they shape the positions in which we hold ourselves in the world. The power of clothes is amazing not just in terms of how they affect relations, but in self-knowledge as well. It is clear that the clothes we wear say something about ourselves. “Fashion is instant language” – in the words of Miuccia Prada herself. If you dress in a classic suit, you may be a businessman, if you wear a Chanel bag, you are most likely affluent in terms of money, if you wear a football shirt, you’re in a sporty mood and so on. This is the obvious, first layer of how clothes talk about ourselves. On a deeper level, analyzing our clothes is a quick and rather deep way of understanding our aesthetic experience. In other words, why do we like the things we like? This may seem a rather complicated issue, but the beauty of clothes and accessories is that by asking yourself a few simple questions, you can dig very deep and find out a lot about yourself. For example, for many people it may be hard to explain why they choose something (from their closet or in a store); but the moment you ask yourself “why this and not the other?” everything starts to become clearer. For example, if you have to choose between a red shirt and a brown shirt and
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the answer to “why do I reject fashion” should be honest. If
you think dressing up is for dumb people, that is your right. But then again, the question of “why is dressing up for dumb people?” should come immediately. Sometimes, in such contexts, people give answers of the likes of “people who dress up are superficial, because they don’t focus on their minds, but on their appearance” – and that is not a completely fair point, but it is understandable. In such a case, one may ask himself whether it makes sense that high art performers, such as ballet dancers or opera singers are entitled to dress in nice costumes while on stage. If the answer is yes, then the normal follow-up is to ask yourself why on stage clothes matter in order to convey emotions, personalities and ideas and in everyday life this should not be the case. Moreover, people who “don’t dress up” should ask themselves how the world would look like if everyone wore for any occasion an oversized gray t-shirt and an old pair of chinos. If everyone rejected colors, patterns, tailoring, quality fabrics, designs and every other element that makes fashion what it is, what would the world look like? If the focus is only on the mind and soul, do these have no aesthetic needs? If they do have a need for pleasure, shouldn’t this matter and be met with the highest approach possible? Should fashion not be a tool to inspire others? And so, the case for fashion is built, but, moreover, one can discover that there may be other reasons to his refusal for fashion than a false reasonable argument. The truth is often uncomfortable, but then again so is a dental surgery. One thing that needs to be said is that self-knowledge, while in some ways does imply change, doesn’t have to imply it. In other words, if someone finds out something about themselves they don’t like and don’t want to change, they don’t have to change it, but they should be honest about it. Digging deep in the human soul though, one will discover that ultimately, almost everything is to be understood and can be treated with compassion. Given that “we are all special cases” as Albert Camus might say, each individual’s journey in terms of self-discovery through clothes is different and thus you should not expect everything to work or for everything to work in a certain way.
Read this article with a song!
The trick is not just to learn how to discover yourself, but also how to build your own style in order to build your own presence in your life and in the lives of those who count for you. Ultimately, in order to know the world, one needs to know himself. In this sense, any means of gaining information is something at least to be considered. Given the strong ties of clothing to individuality and group role, style and fashion can prove themselves to be great tools for those who want to learn a lot about themselves.
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I N
T H E I R
O W N
W O R D S
costume master
François Echalier François Echalier is a historical costume enthusiast. On his Instagram account, people can see impressive costumes from different eras that will leave you literally “bouche bée”. We wanted to learn more about him, and he was kind enough to give an interview - originally in French, of course. How did you start being interested in costumes?
What is people’s reaction to your costumes?
My passion for costumes has been linked to my love for the
Costumes always bring a sign of kindness to everyone. This
theater since I was a child. I’ve always loved the idea of em-
curiosity is a pleasure of reciprocity. Travelling to Scotland in
bodying a character. Costumes allow you to escape for a mo-
a kilt, for example, is a way to get more into the atmosphere.
ment. Since then, this passion has never left me. What costumes would you like to wear in the future, and Which was the first costume you’ve ever worn?
why?
Imagine, you find yourself in one of the most beautiful castles
The next project will be a sumptuous costume that I will make
in France, the castle of Vaux-le-Vicomte, in a Renaissance cos-
for the next Venice carnival. I will spend hours making the em-
tume for a shooting like the famous French film Peau d’Ane by
broidery for a future baroque project.
Jacques Demy. We might as well tell you right away that it will leave a lifelong impression on your mind.
What other hobbies and interests do you have besides costumes?
Which historical era is your favorite and why?
Traveling, heritage, photography as well as theater and world
I am passionate about 18th century period costumes because
history which are closely related to my passion for costume.
of the complexity of the dress codes and the preciousness of
In conclusion, I want to quote Antoine de Saint-Exupéry: “Let
the embroidery details.
the dream devour your life so that life does not devour your
I recommend the film Dangerous Liaisons (1988) or the recent
dream.”
Versailles series (2015) to get you in the mood. Even today, rococo remains a great source of inspiration in
Thank you!
fashion as well as in architecture. Who makes the costumes you wear today? Each project is a new collaboration. I work with different artisans. I recently had the opportunity to make some incredible
Discover Francois’ IG profile at
costumes for the Grévin Museum in Paris representing King
instagram.com/mrcostumes
Louis XIV in his masterful Sun King costume. I also make my own costumes with my wife. Where do you get to wear them? Fortunately not in everyday life, but there are, for example, historical reconstructions in imperial costumes of Napoleon’s troops such as the battle of Waterloo (June 18, 1815). We also meet up with other enthusiasts at the Venice Carnival for themed events in dream palaces. Sometimes, I go on fabulous trips such as a crossing of the Nile which has as the theme the Belle-Epoque years of Agatha Christie’s novels in a steamboat called the Steam Ship Soudan.
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“Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve” Antoine de Saint-Exupéry
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FA S H I O N
W O R L D
WHERE ARE THE
FASHION BLOGGERS?
B
Text: Attire Club
ack a while ago, in February 2017, we
soon after the server overload, the admins of the website de-
wrote a post on our website titled “Is
cided to close down the messaging portion and make it re-
There a Crisis in Fashion Blogging?”
volve only around articles and recommendations. Of course
In it, we were discussing the rise of the
that this endeavor failed, because people had been accus-
fashion blogger - namely a person who
tomed to sending messages and to receiving them, so soon
shares photos of their outfits online
enough, the website became dull. Also, there was not enough
and sometimes adds their thoughts
interest to keep it running, and, while heartifb.com is still up
about clothing, accessories and groom-
today, it features posts from 2017 on the home page.
ing. The 2010s were a great decade for
fashion blogs, as the internet became increasingly accessible
Soon enough, many bloggers simply could not keep up with
through the spread of mobile devices and computers and also
the idea of constantly posting, as this, in the end, is at least
due to the decrease in prices when it came to digital photo
a part-time job, if not a full-time job. Moreover, the daughters
and video cameras. While many bloggers were more “general”
and sons of rich people, supported by massive PR agencies,
in their approach, others were catering to a specific niche. The
were already taking most of the advertising revenue. Of course,
mid-part of the 2010s was marked by heavy sponsorships that
there was no plain playing field: bloggers supported by signif-
brands were dropping on bloggers, who thought that this way
icant agencies, organizations and brands had their pictures
they would reach more potential customers and increase their
professionally taken, they were invited to runway shows all
sales. And that happened in some cases, but did not happen
over the world and didn’t basically need to work their e-mails
in others. In the end, it kind of turned out that many bloggers
in order to get any sponsorships - they were all arranged from
were not extremely influential, not in the sense that they were ‘bad’, but rather in the sense that people did not see them as someone who is worth listening to. And that makes sense, given that you really need to know how to build a public persona that recommends things before you get them to sell anything. In other words, people who ‘produced themselves’ did not necessarily know how to do it or did not have enough reach or resources to promote themselves as social tastemakers.
D
uring those years, which now seem to have happened really many years ago, even though it’s only been about 5 years, there was even a social media platform called
“Independent Fashion Bloggers”, where bloggers could connect. What happened was that bloggers were messaging each other so desperately in an attempt to gain more followers and likes, that the system soon became overwhelmed with this type of messages. In our article, we were saying that such a site will most likely soon disappear and we were right: not
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about the new version of Instagram, and some are already starting to quit it. Moreover, a good amount of people who have voiced their opinion about the future of the digital world have claimed that in the near future, there won’t just be one platform for each service, like we have today, where YouTube, for example is a monopoly in its market (and so are FB and Twitter), but rather several platforms that will compete, given that people won’t want to have to stand the constant hate they will get from both other users and the platforms themselves, so they will migrate to places where they will feel more welcome and at ease.
the mother ship. And so, the world continued to have a good amount of bloggers running the interwebs with their quirky “it’s called fashion,
I
n a way, the fact that so many fashion bloggers are migrating or shutting down makes sense - after all, we’re at the beginning of a decade and the 2010s bloggers will make
room for the bloggers of the 2020s.
look it up” - outfits. However, not too long after, around 201819 and also in 2020, many of these bloggers and websites
What the going a-wall of so many bloggers means is that there
seem to have vanished into thin air, without any explanation.
is indeed a bubble of influence in the online world and that
For example, Adam Gallagher from I am Galla simply stepped
most bloggers are not for real in their business. When some-
out and left a message on Insta saying that he wants to do art
one becomes so famous overnight it is very likely that they are
to lift up “marginalized communities”. It is not clear what hap-
pulled by a million-dollar PR machine, as Tim Gunn once said
pened that he decided to leave empty an account of 1.9 million
about the Kardashians and their model cousins. The idea that
followers. His latest FB post was in January 2019 and, in an
someone was “scouted” and taken from an average existence
extremely odd twist, got only 5 comments, one of which sim-
into the runway spotlight in the 21st century, simply based
ply said “Hi”. What is weird in this scenario is that one would
on their “great taste and personality” is a little ridiculous. It
expect that someone who is so followed and liked to garner
does not mean it doesn’t happen or that you can’t grow your
more attention when they go off the grid for a month. But that
own business, but going from the suburbs and working at the
didn’t happen. Since then, no news of Adam appeared, at least
mall to superstardom without an organic boost (for example,
no noticeable news. The same seems to be happening with
being on a TV show and working that to your advantage) is
another extremely popular blog, Scout Sixteen. Justin’s last
not really bound to happen. In most cases, it’s a flash in a pan,
post was in June 2020 and involved some skincare products.
and it would be really interesting to be able to really “follow
He posted about it on his Facebook profile, followed by 33,855
the money.”
and the post got no comments. It seems that he moved completely to Instagram, where he has posted since.
There is, it can be said, nothing wrong with commercial proj-
S
ects. After all, money still makes the world go round. ome voices say that bloggers are now quitting their
sites dominate. And, even if you are going to focus solely on
T
social media, it can be useful to have a portal as well. In the
cross-promote each other, but only those whom they know,
end, many people today who are around 30 or older remember
regardless of whether they have posted anything in the last
social media platforms like Friendster, and, of course, the big
three years or so and thus, we can clearly speak of an infla-
MySpace. In some parts of the world, sites like Hi5 were very
tion of influence. There really is a bubble that is not supported
popular, and people did not expect their massive demise. At
by much. Corporations are driving the game and pretending
one point, many bonds were created on Yahoo360 and, when
they’re not, people are acting like celebrities, even though no-
that shut down, lots of users moved to Multiply - which was an
body really knows much about them and it’s all form and no
extremely user-friendly site. Not everyone followed, and many
content.
connections were lost in the process. A few years later, Mul-
M
blogs and moving exclusively to social media. However, if that’s the case, it does not sound like a very good
strategy. In the end, the internet is still a place where web-
tiply started to diminish, then it became a marketplace focus on East-Asian countries and then, it ultimately shut down. Of course, many “influencers” are short-term businesses - if it can be put this way, so maybe focusing just on social media isn’t all bad. Recently, many people have started complaining
he crisis that is happening right now in the world of fashion blogging is one caused by greed, corruptibility and short-term thinking. Brands promote the people
they know, regardless of reach or quality of content, bloggers
aybe the reset button that is now being pressed on the fashion world and in other fields will determine a re-think of the entire influencer and blogging system
and people will look for value where value lies. Because, at the end of the day, that is the true potential of blogging.
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S T Y L E
G U I D E
SUCCESS IN THE HOME OFFICE: Dress Code or Baggy Look?
A
re you self-employed or employed at a com-
For singers, an upright posture is especially important to give
pany and are working from home - perma-
the voice the necessary space to allow it to be used at a max-
nently or for a while?
imum. It is no different with speaking. And so, it makes a big difference whether you are lying on the couch when talking to
Working at home in the office requires much
a customer on the phone or sitting upright at your desk.
self-discipline - staying at home in front of
your computer is not all online shopping and playing games,
It has been found that an appropriate outfit in the home office
but it also has many advantages, such as not being stuck in
is even performance-enhancing and promotes concentrated
rush hour traffic and feeling more comfortable in your own
and focused work.
home. Besides, you don’t have to follow a formal dress code like in the office. Which outfit for the home office is the right one?
Some people think they can sit in front of the computer comfortably in their pajamas, holding a cup of coffee. Certainly, this can work, especially for those who have been accustomed to working from home for years, but it may not be the best way
E
ven though clothing can influence our behavior, it does not mean that you have to sit alone in front of the computer in a formal gray suit. In most cases, that would
probably be a bit overdressed.
to go for everyone. However, this does not mean that you should not be welldressed. In order to find out how you should actually dress Your clothes and beyond
A
t the latest for video meetings and conferences, most
when working remotely, you can engage in an exercise in imagination.
people scurry out of their pajamas. And that is a good thing to do, even if you don’t have a video meeting.
In this sense, you can imagine that a customer, employee or your boss could suddenly appear at your door unannounced.
However, clothes do influence your behavior and attitude, and
What would be the “home office look” in which you would feel
thus, it is important, at least sometimes, to put yourself not
comfortable and also open the door with a good feeling?
just in a working mindset, but also in a working setting and clothes.
The answer to this question will, of course, be given by your field of work. Those who work in banking will have, of course, a
Imagine the following:
different answer than those working in an art gallery.
You want to convince a customer of your offer on the phone no matter if it is a great service or a product.
How to dress for a video conference?
What position do you take - with somewhat disheveled hair, in
V
sweatpants, baggy look or even in your pajamas?
1. At least your top should be very neat and elegant. It is better
Or, you want to discuss an important project with your team.
ideo conferences are extremely important. To make sure you are well-prepped for them, here are some tips you can consider for successful sartorial results:
to do without hoodies and band shirts for these occasions, What attitude do you take - freshly showered, a little bit
no matter in which field you work. If you want to keep it still
dressed up?
casual, go for a nice shirt with a jersey blazer or a high-quality sweater or blouse.
How do your posture and voice change? 2. Pay attention to patterns: In videos, small / restless patClothing influences our inner posture and attitude. And we are
terns can cause a so-called moiré effect. This can often be
already in the middle of a wonderful chain reaction. Because
seen in stripes and small checks. A flickering impression is
gestures, facial expressions and posture also change - and
created. Monochrome garments appear calmer and do not
with them your voice and the way you speak. And this, by ex-
distract from you. It is best to test the effect of patterns be-
tension, influences everything.
fore the meeting.
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3. Choose fresh and not too dark colors. Black looks dull in
that people who imitate the way their bosses dress are most
videos and the contrast to your face can be very hard.
likely to get ahead when it comes to climbing the career ladder. It’s a trick of the unconscious mind with which you can
Additional tip: If you are wearing jewelry, such as chains,
play.
watches, etc., make sure that these do not rattle or disturb the sound when they touch something. For example, you are wear-
To conclude, it can be said that with a look that supports you
ing a bracelet and lean on your laptop to type something; this
in your productive work and with good time management, you
may cause an annoying sound that will have everyone else go
most likely have great conditions to work successfully in your
“turn down your mike!”
home office.
One more thing that needs to absolutely be pointed out is that, if you are uncertain as to how to dress for a video call, you should probably ask your colleagues, bosses or employees. Or, if you think this may not go well, you can simply dress very neutrally and stylish (think turtleneck shirt with an open blazer) and see how everyone else dresses. Some studies argue
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FA S H I O N
W O R L D
Virtual Runway Shows for the Spring-Summer 2021 Season: A Turbulent Matter
F
Text: Attire Club
or the spring-summer 2021 season, there were
Six member and Royal Academy of Fine Arts professor Walter
no crowds, elaborate sets and soft lights under
van Beirendonck took it to his social media accounts to ex-
the glass dome of the Paris Grand Palais, as
press his discontent with the collection – not that it was not
Chanel presented its haute couture collection
good, but that it was in fact based way too much on his design
online. And so did all 33 participating labels that
aesthetic. Van Beirendonck’s fans were not shy when it came
would have shown during this installment of
to pointing out several instances when Abloh’s designs were
Paris Fashion Week. The current crisis forced fashion brands
blatant imitations of the Belgian’s creations.
to come up with other ways than the runway presentation to showcase their latest designs. At Chanel, it was a simple vid-
Van Beirendonck’s supporters also claimed that the new LV
eo featuring their impeccable clothes (although we’re not sure
eyewear styles are incredibly similar to the Fakbyfak, Thunder
what Chanel customer wears a classic Chanel suit with a maw
and Lighting sunglasses made for the autumn-winter 2018
hawk or a buzz cut). Dior released a video titled “Le Mythe
Van Beirendonck show. “Virgil did it again” Van Beirendonck
Dior”, which came under Italian director’s Matteo Garrone sig-
told Hypebeast. “This is not just copying, this is using my
nature and which showcased a series of miniature dresses.
world, ideas, colors, signature, cuts, shapes as his collection
Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri wanted to allude with it
moodboard. A world and signature [I’ve been] working on since
to the “Theatre de la Mode”, which was a post-World War II
1985. He is paid a huge amount of money to be an [‘artistic
phenomenon, when doll-sized dresses were sent around the
director’] and he has unlimited possibilities to work with any-
world to revive the French fashion industry. An interesting nod
body in the world — he could have asked me for a collabora-
to today’s context.
tion.” He continued by adding “He clearly feels invincible. Shame — also for Vuitton. I hate copycats”, referencing one of his own fall-winter 2020 designs. “More than ever, spread the word and let this dirty practice stop. Tell Vuitton to contact the real thing.” To counter-balance, a Louis Vuitton representative told the publication that Abloh’s collection was inspired independently. Louis Vuitton
After the couture shows, it was time for the men’s runways to take a step back and allow video presentations to convince audiences of the value of the brand. At Louis Vuitton, we could only see the idea of a collection going on a journey – not really any clothes. Virgil Abloh wanted to show this animated short video on the occasion of Paris Fashion Week only to prepare people for the new concept of the brand. The video was followed by some presentations, which were broadcast live and which were received with a surprise. Soon after the Shanghai show, the famous Antwerp
28 | InCompanytAttirehClub
The story will most likely continue to develop in the near future, but what can be clearly said is that Abloh’s approach to Vuitton has definitely been in certain ways a rather distant thing than one would normally expect from LV. Not the greatest things in the world, especially for those who had seen the designs of creatives like Walter van Beirendonck in the past. Whether Abloh copied van Beirendonck’s designs remains open for debate, but what is clear is that very often in the fashion business, large brands base their creations on smaller brands, which usually don’t have the attention or large enough platforms to be heard by the masses. At the same time, it can be clearly said that no one person owns an aesthetic or a creative idea and that basing creations on other projects is how
culture is created. It’s all a very fine balancing act.
with Ghanaian artist Amoako Boafo. The ten-minute video by British director Chris Cunningham not only presents the spring
The Abloh – van Beirendonck drama did not end here, of
collection titled Portrait Of An Artist, but it can also be under-
course, as it was taken online by fans who took the sides of
stood as a bow to the work of Amoako Boafo, who studied at
one designer or the other. While many people who had been
the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna.
critical of Abloh’s practices and approach to the brand (and to other things in which he would be tied to) felt finally heard, others said that the Belgian designer was the pot calling the kettle black, as he is also known to having drawn too much inspiration from his students’ work. The constant online arguing is quite expected and normal in the end, designers have fans who support them and their cultural contributions, but at the same time, people can take it really far online. This phenomenon is even stranger given
Prada
that probably most people who are arguing are not direct customers of the brands. Maybe they are, but it’s a little hard to
At Prada, before Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada will present
imagine a fancy princess who, after buying some LV luggage
their first joint collection in September, the Italian designer
with her daddy’s card goes online and writes negative things
demonstrated how fashion (the spring collection 2021 for men
about van Beirendonck. Then, she refuses to go to his next
and the intermediate collection for women) can be brought to
show (to which she is clearly invited), but, after reading some
life digitally.
harsh comments which some people she’s not even sure exist have posted after her comment, she decides that - indeed,
The ten-minute video called Multiple Views SS21 was divided
there is no reason to support the Parisian brand - at least not
into five chapters, which represented a compilation of contri-
while Abloh is the head designer, so she stops buying LVs and
butions by Martine Syms, Jürgen Teller, Willy Vanderperre and
maybe throws away her old stuff as a protest in a change of
a concluding catwalk presentation of minimalist, futuristic
mind. r/thathappened!.
Prada classics. Finally, the obligatory bow of Miuccia Prada. The future of fashion shows is not clear yet, even though some directions seem to have crystallized already. The idea of having a video instead of a real-life presentation is not something many people really like, in a way it abstractizes the idea of a luxury brand, which is all about social status and interaction – so just watching it from home won’t cut it. Most likely, fashion shows will adapt, and we will see some big shifts in the world of style anytime soon.
Hermès
Returning to the digital runway shows, another important highlight would obviously be Hermès, a brand that is delivering high-end creations season after season. Their video offered a look behind the scenes of the studios in the Parisian suburb of Pantin. In the staged video, designer Véronique Nichanian is able to watch her assistants at work like the cameramen – without the usual hectic pace of the fashion weeks in the last minutes before the show. This was also thought to be the way to discover the simple spring collection with its neon-colored accents. In a way, the video had a Loïc Prigent vibe to it, but we haven’t heard any complaints from him yet. Over at Dior, while director Matteo Garrone wrapped the label’s couture presentation of the women’s line as a fairy-tale short film, Kim Jones, the creative head of the men’s line, teamed up Dior
Are people really interested in the hottest ticket in town being on their phones?
attireclub.org |
29
LIVING IN the
2010s
The Time of Social Media
and
Selfies
Text: Attire Club
If the 2010s decade had a catchphrase or tagline, what would it be? Here are some thoughts people we’ve asked had: “The social media experiment gone wrong”; “You expected the Jetsons and got Twitter instead”; “You can’t protect against sabotage from within”; “I’m new in town and it gets worse”. So, what made this decade make people think so? Discover our rundown on the decade of social media. 30 | InCompanytAttirehClub
O
Did I Look Good at Least? n June 16, 2009, US broadcaster Bravo TV
lies (fake news) and character assassination (doxing, deplatforming, depersoning).
aired an episode of their then-new show called The Real Housewives of New Jer-
Even though society is said to be the opposite of nature, it
sey that became a defining moment for the
has an organic and extremely natural development to it. The
genre, and which can also be considered the
first episode of the
moment that announced the tone and events
RH franchise, which
of the decade to come.
started out with the Real Housewives of
During the 6th episode of the series, Teresa invites the Man-
Orange County aired
zos, the Lauritas, and the Staubs to join her for a dinner party
on March 21, 2006. 10
at a restaurant. However, as the dinner progresses, tensions
years later, on July 21,
rise when Danielle brings out a copy of the infamous book Cop
2016, new media out-
Without a Badge and wants to confront everyone about the
let The Young Turks posted a video on their YouTube of how their Republican National Convention coverage was crashed by none other than the controversial Alex Jones. The video is a fascinating piece of media, as it showcases just how the RH theme morphed into current events and political discourse. In it, they all start out discussing and trying to react well to the fact that Alex entered their studio, but, soon enough, Cenk Uygur gets upset. Danielle-style, Alex pulls out his “Hillary t-shirt”, a t-shirt that features Bill Clinton’s picture stylized like an Obama poster, with the word “rape” beneath. Theresa-style, who started making lists about why Danielle is a degenerate, Cenk explains, that “First of all, do you know who does this kind of shirt? First of all, a sick guy.” From there, it all goes downhill, Cenk starts yelling at Roger Stone (who was off-camera) calling him sick, yelling about Trump, rape accusations and the “usual”. Housewives-style, people gather
allegations and rumors that had been spread. Minutes later,
around, some film with their phones, some laugh and others
the women at the table start a state-of-the-art argument witnessed by almost everyone else, including Danielle’s children, which ends in Teresa’s slur “prostitution whore” and her famous table flip. Even though the 2000s had been the decade of the reality show, at the time, this scene and the entire Housewives franchise was a global cultural shock. The world had not seen in memory scenes that were so poisonous and hateful on television and which were at the same time, real. In a way, Housewives was the most extreme thing in the media landscape, as the cast would put out their personal lives on display and
assist bouche bée. The argument continues as Ana Kasparian
would be very candid about gossip, rumor and downright char-
enters the frame Jacqueline Laurita-style, wearing a red dress,
acter assassination - as millions watched. And, if a housewife
flipping her hair and waving her finger at Jones. A producer
was bashed enough, the other cast members could be sure
tries to push her out of the frame or simply prop her better for
that she would most likely not return for the next season. Bul-
the camera, but Cenk goes bananas, flips his microphone and
lying at its finest.
goes off on Alex yelling “do you think the lizard people are in charge?” The commotion soon ends, as there were too many
This extremely powerful form of media brought a new concept
people, and the chaos was getting out of hand. People casu-
to the world, which shaped the entire decade to come, namely
ally yell about liberals and terrorists as the crowd dissipates.
the idea of exposing and fictionalizing everyday life. But what most people did not know was that any fictive work implies
This event and the comparison to the Real Housewives scene
conflict and the escalation of tension with every season. And
are for sure anecdotal, but it can be considered a metaphor for
so, the 2010-2019 decade, the teens of the 21st century be-
the entire decade.
came a decade where people displayed their lives all over the web and continuously engaged in personal attacks, rumors,
attireclub.org |
31
Ana Kasparian pointing fingers and living her HWives dream
The Breakdown
T
In space news, the MAVEN probe arrived on Mars and India
he 2010s began with what some surely considered to
had its first Mars mission.
be a bad omen: the longest solar eclipse of the millen-
Google released the Google Glass, which did not take off as in-
nium and the devastating Haiti earthquake. Technolog-
tended and smartwatches became one of the most discussed
ical advances such as the introduction of the first iPad and
fashion trends.
the entering of augmented reality in the mainstream were also
In the same year, NATO ended is combat operations in Afghan-
strong marks of the decade. In 2010, scientists managed to
istan.
capture anti-matter, something that will very likely have an
In 2015, the Large Hadron Collider in Geneva reached its max-
echo in the decades to come.
imum operating power. Lithuania adapted the euro as their
2011
unfortunately
also
new currency.
brought a massive earth-
The Eurasian Union, a proj-
quake to Japan. This was
ect proposed in 1994 came
also the year of the cap-
into being. Current member
turing and killing of Osama
states of the EAEU are Rus-
bin Laden, who had been
sia, Armenia, Belarus, Ka-
sought for the last decade.
zakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.
South Sudan became a
In technology, 2015 saw
nation,
and
fi-
the first self-regulating ar-
nancial
crisis
deepened.
tificial heart, a new genera-
In medicine, 2011 saw the
tion of high-tech supercar-
first synthetic organ trans-
riers appeared and the New
plant and USB 3.0 becomes
Horizons probe arrived at
widely available. Moreover,
Pluto. The ownership of
consumer-level
Greece’s
robotics
electric cars reaches 1 mil-
entered more and more
lion worldwide and Micro-
everyday life. One of the
soft released Windows 10.
highlights of this year is the
In 2015, Queen Elizabeth
global population’s reach
also
to a record high of 7 bil-
gest-reigning monarch in
lion. As 2012 approached,
the history of Britain.
many people started to fear
became
the
lon-
2016 was a sporty year
doomsday, as the Mayan calendar was set to end its current
with Euro Cup being held in France and the Olympic Games
cycle on December 21 2012. Countless books, movies and
taking place in Rio de Janeiro. This year also saw many things
articles were created on this topic and many people actually
like agricultural robots, CCTV cameras and OLED displays
prepared for the worst.
becoming more mainstream. Also, the heated American elec-
As 2012 came, people saw themselves surrounded by events
tions took place and Donald Trump became the new president
such as the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II, the Lon-
of the United States.
don Olympic Games and the exploration of Mars by the Mars
In 2017, China established the largest megacity in the world
Science Laboratory. It was also announced that Voyager I
and the world’s first kilometer-high skyscraper was open. Los
crossed the heliopause and, back on Earth, quad-core smart-
Angeles also inaugurated a new tallest building and India
phones and tablets became a trend. On the day of December
completed: the structure of the Dibang Dam. Long podcasts
21, the fears of many were not met, as this was a rather calm,
were also huge.
but in many places dark day, when no end of the world came.
As every year, more space exploration successes and medi-
2013 was a year of tech-related events: North Korea conduct-
cal advancements were announced. Cosmetic surgery spikes
ed its third nuclear test, scientists created the first human
and electronic paper is seeing widespread use. Bitcoin and
embryonic stem cells through cloning and China celebrated
other cryptocurrencies were
its first unmanned Moon landing. Uruguay became the first
also significant trends.
nation to allow the full legalization of cannabis. Up north, the
In 2018, the African Central
NSA documents were leaked, which caused a great scandal.
Bank was established. Rus-
Meanwhile, British forces withdrew from Afghanistan.
sia hosted the FIFA World
2014 was a tense year with many moments of high emotion.
Cup. Polio is reported to
Latvia renounced its currency, the lat, to make way to the euro.
have been eradicated and
The first gay marriage to be hold in England and Wales took
a universal flu vaccine is
place. In Scotland, things got tense as people voted on the
available. Moreover, robots
independence of their land, which resulted in a “no” and many
were
cheered their favorite football teams during the FIFA World
surgeries than before and
Cup held in Brazil.
talks about transhuman-
32 | InCompanytAttirehClub
performing
more
ism, AI and robots are
struct its very struc-
already
mainstream.
ture was placed in the
Moreover, robot insect
decade before. In the
drones were now in
2000s, projects such
military use.
as The Da Vinci Code
Major topics of dis-
made people obsess
cussion are migration,
with looking for hid-
conspiracy
theories,
den meanings behind
social media, depres-
cultural products and
sion, narcissism, Brex-
with proving everyone
it, socialism, universal
and everything wrong.
basic
hate
WikiLeaks, the publica-
groups, major famine
tion run by Julian As-
in South America, fem-
sange, which released
income,
inism, environmental-
classified and private
ism, globalism and other -isms.
documents, was also established in the 2000s, but gained
In 2019, the Notre Dame cathedral in Paris sees a significant
major exposure in 2010, when Julian Assange was faced with
fire which leaves it almost in ruin.
allegations that led to his seeking asylum in Ecuador’s Lon-
EU elections are held and conservative parties see a major win
don embassy. He remained there until the end of the decade,
in countries like France, Britain, Spain and Italy.
in 2019 when the embassy lifted its protection of the contro-
On the other side of the Channel, Theresa May quits her job as
versial editor who now had to confront the political and, of
PM and is soon replaced by Boris Johnson, who promises to
course, media trials. WikiLeaks is an interesting phenomenon,
deliver Brexit by October 31. Of course, once again, no Brexit
as it was praised by some people and hated by others.
was delivered. Later, the UK General Election sees a great win for the pro-Brexit conservatives. After making two PMs resign,
The spread of the internet and the strong “uncovering” aspect
Nigel Farage’s Brexit finally came to fruition.
of culture began to trickle down in society into “deconstruction” and “conspiracy theories”. The relation of these things with society and the powers at be turned into a very complex
Tensions Rise
I
narrative: from love to hate and condemnation and back again,
t can be said that the 2010s were a decade that was marked
these were the main keys in which almost everything was
by many bad, violent events and by an overall state of ten-
done in the decade.
sion in much of the world. The advent of the reality-show
society, mixed with the many dangerous and controversial events that took place, did not leave much room for great art or complex discussions on creativity. It was all about politics, in one way or another. The films released during this decade were major political finger waggers, if not downright propaganda and there really was no mainstream talk about paintings or
Regression to the Meme
O
ne of the hallmarks of the decade was the meme culture, which was in many ways a reflection of the spilling of the world of reality shows into daily life. In
other words, meme became a fictionalized version of talking
music. If one were not to be part of certain circles where these
about daily happenings and events that were easily accessible
themes are of interest, words like “opera” or “ballet” were not
and understandable and that sometimes even talked about
even mentioned. Lowbrow art and camp became elevated to
important things. One of the clearest examples of the trans-
the position that in a working society would be held by those
fer of reality shows into everyday living through memes was,
who are talented in a difficult area and work hard on their craft
of course, the election of Donald Trump as US president. The
(Ling Ling practices 40 hours a day).
NY billionaire was known by most people in the United States and worldwide through his constant appearance in society
But, what was even more interesting (to put it mildly) in regards
newspapers and, of course, through his hit reality show, The
to the decade was that the focus was not so much about what
Apprentice. The fact that Donald Trump became a strong polit-
people do or say, but about the framework in which we op-
ical figure for the Republican Party made many people angry.
erate. A few groups became obsessed with redefining words
Trump’s anti-PC, capitalist and upbeat spirit made not just mil-
and structures and society become complicated due to the
lions of voters feel threatened, but also got many mainstream
fact that the common language (both literally and metaphor-
media (also known as the MSM) angry.
ically speaking) was gone. In other words, the 2010s were a decade where it was all about the structure of society and not
The 2010s were marked by a strong move away from a bal-
about its content. This is something of utmost importance, as
anced world and the polarization only seems to grow as time
the content of society is its purpose.
moves along. The more one side yelled for silencing, the other part trolled them more and more in the hope of exposing
As with many things, the set-up for a society looking to recon-
the opposition’s true intentions, which they managed to do in
attireclub.org |
33
said, “If your parents, the state, all media and the pope support your rebellion, it’s probably not a rebellion.” Duality was the order of business and happened in most areas of society. This highly intense context made many people wonder whether, for example, men and women can even work together. Trend forecaster and all-around respected futurist Lidewij Edelkoort even claimed that, by the end of the 21st century, as artificial wombs will appear, men and women will grow so strongly apart, that they will live completemany ways. The troll became a clear figure of society, with
ly separately. In the whole battle
someone like Milo Yiannopoulos owning up to the title and tak-
of the sexes discussion, the idea
ing it very seriously.
of destroying gender appeared and become one of the biggest
The odd political climate that marked the decade was also ac-
buzz words of the decade - once
companied by what can be called a “sexual insanity”, as sexual
again, catching on with some
politics became a strong focal point. It can be argued that the
and not so much with others.
sexual ideal of the decade was the so-called “virgin whore”, meaning that people tried at the same time to be oversexual
It seems that every good inten-
(slut pride, slut walk, slut everything) and highly puritanical at
tion that was put forward in the
the same time (some considered that simply asking someone
2010s turned into an impossi-
out for a drink was not just assault, but downright rape). This
ble thing to deal with. For exam-
created a climate in which a divide between men and wom-
ple, the #MeToo movement, which exposed the dirty and
en appeared, as men became increasingly afraid to even ap-
nasty sexual politics of Hollywood also backfired when men
proach women and women became increasingly dissatisfied
simply started refusing even to mentor or spend time with
with the men around them. This made many men become
them not just personally, but professionally as well. The high-
tired and made them decide to simply check out of the dating
light of the #MeToo movement was probably when 100 prom-
scene altogether. And so, movements such as MGTOW (Men
inent French women signed a letter calling the #MeToo move-
Going Their Own Way) appeared, which claimed that men
ment a “witch hunt” against men. The letter said that “Rape is
should simply refuse any contact with females and, ultimate-
a crime. But trying to pick up someone, however persistently
ly, with the whole society, as this became highly feminized.
or clumsily, is not — nor is gallantry an attack of machismo.
The inability to form couples or pair bond also gave rise to the
[…] Just like in the good old witch-hunt days, what we are once
appearance of the “incel”, a word that stands short for “invol-
again witnessing here is puritanism in the name of a so-called
untary celibate” which basically describes men who were fed
greater good, claiming to promote the liberation and protec-
up with being refused by women, including “fats and uglies”,
tion of women, only to enslave them to a status of eternal vic-
as one of the poster-boys for incels claimed in a video. It’s not
tim and reduce them to defenseless preys of male chauvinist
really clear what incels want. As men and women grew apart,
demons.” Of course, some of the critics of the movement tried
a new conversation appeared. One of the buzzwords of the
to backpedal, which left many fans disappointed, but which
decade was for sure the sex robot, as many people turning to
gained them another day in the spotlight and in good connec-
sex dolls and robots to satisfy their physical needs. How they
tion with the mainstream powers.
satisfied their needs for connection and intimacy remains to be determined. As expected, some even advocated for the “hu-
In terms of books, it appears quite natural that the best-seller
man” rights of robots.
of the decade (and, in fact, of all times) was “50 Shades of Gray” - a sexual novel for women. Again, power, sex, polarities…
The Marching Band
A
dvocacy and standing up for a cause was one of the big ones in the 2010s. Everyone was an activist, everyone claimed to be politically informed and wise, and
the dominos of advocacy fell just as expected. From animal rights to ending airplanes, everyone was a “literate advocate” for something. One of the poster girls of activism was, of
No Country for Culture
I
n terms of culture, or better said, the entertainment that passed as mainstream culture in the decade, most of it was focused on television series and movies. Competitions
such as Big Brother, The Amazing Race, Survivor, Idols, The
course, teenage activist Greta Thunberg, who made head-
X-Factor, The Voice, cooking competitions and The Bachelor
lines in 2019 when she moralized the UN and everyone she
were some of the most-watched productions of the decade. In
could see about having her childhood destroyed by climate
the second half, though, as many people’s lives became reality
change while claiming to be a huge rebel and going against
shows through Instagram and Facebook, fiction series took
the powers of society and culture. Many people took her seri-
the spotlight. Most of the most-watched shows were set in
ously, while others did not, such as comedian Aron Flam, who
the past and acted as an escape from the tumbles du jour.
34 | InCompanytAttirehClub
Given that the 2010s were a time of great change imposed
took on culture grew to prominence worldwide. These people
by the leaders of the world, many cinematic productions were
did the best they could to bring some balance to the mis-
quite weak, as they had to act as ideology pushers. Moreover,
balanced world people saw all
the unavoidable move towards a global society formed (for
around them. Probably the best-
the moment) of highly different cultures made the quality of
known of these men is Jordan B.
movies decrease as well, as no cultural references, puns or
Peterson, the Canadian clinical
anything that may be misinterpreted or offend one culture or
psychologist who started out by
the other was allowed. The cinema of the 2010s was a severe-
posting his thoughts and lectures
ly dulled down version of what it was in decades such as the
on YouTube and rapidly grew to a
1950s, 60s or even 90s.
worldwide speaker and best-selling author, especially due to his
Needless to say that in terms of celebrities, not many memora-
book “12 Rules for Life”, which
ble presences walked the red carpet of Hollywood or Cannes.
suggested what people can do
In turn, k-pop stars in East Asia drew millions of fans who got
in order to tame down the chaos
really involved in what they did and found a lot of meaning and
around them. Surely, there were
actualization in their movies and music.
other thinkers who made waves
Probably the biggest celebrities of the decade were the Kar-
on the side, such as Slovenian Philosopher Slavoj Žižek, “and
dashians. Kim Kardashian, a woman whose public image was
so on and so on”.
based on the archetype of the whore was the number one “influencer” of the decade. Her relative models, Gigi and Bella
Interestingly enough, the decade ended with the highly con-
Hadid made headlines, but due to a million-dollar marketing
troversial movie about the Joker, which tackled many issues
machine, not because anyone had pushed them to prominence
related to meaning, relevance in society and more.
as it had happened with Linda Evangelista, Eva Herzigová or Naomi Campbell in the past. In an interview, Naomi even refused to comment on Kendall Jenner and her cherry-picking
The Other Side of the World
treme superficiality, narcissism and being dysfunctional. Soon
T
enough, depression was glamorized and mental illness was
identify as another race) was a thing and whether bathrooms
glorified. Of course, the ones who suffered most from this
should be gendered or not, the other half of the world occupied
were the people who were actually going through harsh times.
their time with building themselves up for a future battle and
of the runway shows she does. It can be said that the values du jour of the 2010s were ex-
urning a look to the other side of the world, while Europe and America were arguing whether transspecies (where you identify as a cat or another species),
transkin (where you identify as a fairy) or transrace (where you
with developing things that would enable them to create their
Kim K feeling like an evil bitch
future. Things such as quantum computing, the Internet of Things (IoT), the blockchain, cryptocurrencies, drones, 5G and other technologies were at the forefront of the business and public debate in the Middle East, in Asia and even in Northern Africa who was catching up after the Arab Spring. Of course, talking about these things helped sweep under the rug the sever problems these societies have, but it also gave them a big push into the modern world and allowed for them to develop and create a basis on which hopefully, they will redefine themselves in a balanced and productive way in the future. Social Media: The Barroom Brawl
meaning, an inflation of words and an empty nihilism. This
T
A Crisis in Meaning
I
n many ways, the 2010s were characterized by a lack of
he 2010s started out as a promising decade, but, by 2015-16, it was already clear that people found themselves in the impossibility of doing what they wanted.
The decade started out with the expansion of the internet, as
is what paved the way for a new breed of philosophers and
Psy’s video Gangnam Style became the most-watched video
thinkers to appear. The so-called “Internet Dad” was a big phe-
at the time, uniting the world in a choreography. Soon enough,
nomenon, as a new group of “merry men” (meaning a group of
though, the internet became not just the place “to be”, but
highly different characters who fight for a common goal) who
also the battleground for power and survival. Little by little,
attireclub.org |
35
social media platforms
The massive lean towards bombastic explanations was com-
like
bated two-fold: one, by the mainstream media who down-
and Instagram became
played everything, but also by YouTube stars who “made
the most common words
sense” of what things were “really” like - as if they knew.
Twitter,
of the decade and posting selfies online turned into the main activity for
Occupy Our Time
of flower power, the
W
2010s were the decade
many people as possible that the Earth is actually flat. Flat-
of selfies and social
earthers were mocked and ridiculed and, whether the Earth
media. The complica-
is flat or not, seems to be still up for debate. The Flat Earth
tions brought about
movement is now a clear indicator that many people in the
by these things were tricky and concerning. Many
world don’t believe anything they are told anymore. Some phi-
found themselves depressed by the (low?) number of likes
losophers even notice that we are moving towards a society
they received on posts or because they can’t compete with
where people become increasingly segregated, as many sim-
others in terms of looks. Others became frustrated that some
ply choose to check out of the mainstream. If you take this,
people and brands can invest heavily in self-promotion, even
the MGTOW movement and other similar movements into
though they lack any real reason to be
consideration, you can’t help but notice that this is actually
many. If the 1920s were the jazz age and the 1970s were the decade
at the forefront of
culture.
hile many people in the 2010s were obsessed with getting the newest iPhone (to take good pictures of the latest ‘Occupy’ protest) or making sure they
eat gluten-free, others took on as their mission to convince as
true.
By the second half of the decade, social media platforms became the place for screaming matches between various extremist groups and moderates. The fact that social media needs to be fueled daily (if
Cyberpunk 2020
T
he constant agitation of the decade installed a fatigue in people, which was noticeable in the deep dive in nostalgia.
Almost every year of the decade was marked by
not multiple times a day) with new
a trend based on a nostalgic feeling. At one point,
content that will get reality-show
the 60s were the trend, then the 70s, then the 80s
type reactions meant that every-
and then the 90s. People took refuge in a time
one from small Twitter journalists to
which was not necessarily simpler, but which they
megacorporations pushed news and ideas that were ‘out-ex-
knew how it would end.
tremeing’ each other. And so, things like pedophilia became
This nostalgia, which could be seen both in fashion, movies,
soon enough a mainstream topic.
TV shows, games and everything in between also uncovered some rather interesting things.
The Honey Boo Boo Child Conspiracy Theory
I
One of these was the 1988 tabletop role-playing game Cy-
t all started out, as everything in the decade, with it being
berpunk 2020, which made an eerily accurate description of
discussed in the reality show sphere. A rather popular real-
the late 2010s. The game talked of transhumanism (which
ity show, Here Comes Honey Boo Boo, which documented
was the platform on which independent US candidate Zoltan
the life of a child beauty queen was canceled after allegations
Istvan ran in 2016), but above all, it spoke of a social atmo-
were made that Honey Boo Boo’s mother was dating a man
sphere which was extremely familiar to many. In a later, 1994
who had been accused of abusing children. Fast forward to
book related to the game, we could read that “It is now ac-
the end of the decade and people are talking about child abuse
cepted among historical scholars that in the decades before
rings and allegations are made about Prince Andrew being in-
the Collapse, America suffered from the sickness of racism
volved in trafficking circles. True or not, this is a mark that the
and ‘cultural identity.’ Everyone wanted to be seen as special.
2010s were a spill of reality shows (which characterized the
Every group had to be ‘equal’ to or preferably better than its
2000s) in what we would call real life.
neighbors, and fought to protect its ‘special’ rights. If anyone had something that someone else wanted, they were painted
Another example is the rise in so-called conspiracy theories or
as racist, sexist, elitist, or worse. This divisive ‘me first’ atti-
uncovering of secrets. If in the 2000s we could see fictional
tude eventually tore the fabric of American culture apart and
books and movies about massive secrets being uncovered (à
caused it to self-destruct in a fireball of competing ideologies,
la Da Vinci Code): in the 2010s, we had multiple YouTubers
none of which truly recognized each other’s validity.” The book
discuss all types of conspiracies 24 hours a day.
also talked about mass migration in the UK, which has also become a reality.
36 | InCompanytAttirehClub
Interestingly
the
It can be said that the 2010s were all in all a decade of “dis-
book was titled Neo Tribes,
ruption” - people disregarded or tried to disregard many of the
which is a term that de-
things they felt belonged to the old world. From men who dis-
scribes the culture of the
avowed classic relationships to gender-abolishers and from
late 2010s extremely well.
giant tech companies seemingly ending privacy, it seems that
The idea of creating new
there was a clear break from the past - in what the mainstream
“tribes” based on various
is concerned. Speaking of
ideas, traits or concepts
the mainstream, the end of
was
main
the decade also saw a clear
trends of the decade and
division between different
of course, it was also re-
types of people and groups,
flected in the media - TV
a division which will most
series like Peaky Blinders
likely increase in the future.
or Carnival Row all talk about the dynamics of groups who
This rupture comes on the
one
enough,
of
the
live together.
background of many people
Oddly enough, Neo Tribes also talked about the state of the
refusing the moral depravity
media, describing entertainment as “generic and bland” and
they see around them and
spoke about the “sameness” of print magazines - which are
trying to take a considerate
all printed by the same publisher. It also foresaw that things
approach towards the new
would become boring in order to appeal to as many people
things that are coming up.
as possible saying that “The product is bland, mindless and caters to the lowest possible denominator”.
The wave of change was also noticeable in the Western world
Neo Tribes also spoke about the ascend of body augmenta-
in the form of the mass migrations from Africa and the ME into
tion techniques, visible today mostly in smartphones, which
Europe and America, which took place mostly after 2015 and
take on many of the things people want to do. In return, peo-
which were one of the biggest controversies of the decade.
ple become increasingly less human, which is something Marshall McLuhan talked about decades ago.
Also, breaking with the past also happened through sad
The 2005 version of the game looked at a world in which all
(and quite symbolic) events such as the 2019 fire at the No-
data became “intangible” and where even “recent recorded
tre-Dame cathedral in Paris.
history is in doubt”. This phenomenon is also something we could see a lot of: history, both recent and old is being rewritten depending on who is writing it and what the political status quo of the day is. Wikipedia, a source of information in its initial state, which was used by countless students to obtain information, has slowly become an editorialized view of the world. The digital encyclopedia has turned into a worldview
The Peter Panning Generation
B
ecause the world in the 2010s was so tumultuous and because everything moved online, so did rebellion, with trolling becoming a real thing, as people spread “digital
graffiti” through memes and message boards. These memes
manifesto and, in order to counterbalance this, in late 2019,
were a way of poking jokes at the culture, but many were an-
Russia’s government announced that it would invest about 2
gered by them and by their being “pure ideology” to use a Sla-
billion rubles ($31 million) in a counter-product of Wikipedia,
voj Žižek phrase.
which would be based on the Great Russian Encyclopedia. The idea of a Neo Tribe is not necessarily a good or bad one - it
The big polarization - infantile and sad as it is - was very well
just depends on how it is implemented.
seen during the 2016 US presidential campaign, when we could see a true “style” war: the war of the hats, as (mostly)
The Last Men and the First Men
T
women in pink crochet hats marched against the men wearing
he agitation of the 2010s may seem that everything
red trucker MAGA hats (to generalize, of course). This banal
that happened in the decade was gloom and doom,
polarization became rapidly spread in different forms across
but there were many amazing things that happened as
the world, but soon enough, it became clear that it is in fact a
well. From cat videos to 3D printing, there was a lot to be seen
battle for political ideology. Trump’s win (through punch lines
during these years.
and catchphrases) divided not only the United States, but the world at large. The reason why American politics are so im-
Blockchain and cryptocurrencies also skyrocketed and of-
portant is because, as the saying goes, “When America sneez-
fered a glimpse into what the world would look like in the near
es, the whole world catches a cold”, meaning that American
future. Moreover, the Internet of Things (IoT), smart cities,
culture and politics influence in different ways the world at
self-driving cars and other amazing innovations were created
large.
and it is very likely that in the next 10 years or so, they will become the new norm.
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In Fashion
T
display in their shows: the Dolce and Gabbana summer 2015
he world of fashion has seen a lot of change during the
red show is one of the highlights of the decade (together with
2010s, especially in menswear. At the beginning of the
other shows around that time), as well as the shows offered
decade, there was a huge spike in fashion blogs - peo-
by Armani in 2018 and 19. Billionaire was also outstanding
ple would post photos of their outfits and the most successful
and Bally never disappointed. Other highlights came from Paul
bloggers were those who had something special. At the time,
Smith and Hardy Amies, but we did not expect anything less.
it was said that there were over 2 million fashion blogs in the world. There was even a website called Independent Fash-
In womenswear, there seemed to be a duality between over-
ion Bloogers (IFB for short) which acted as a social media
done styles and really dragged-down fashions, which went in
for these new stars. Many of these bloggers also had con-
tandem with which women were during the decade.
tracts with brands and did sponsorships as they wore shoes, bags and jackets they would get. However, it wasn’t until long
Back to menswear, it can be argued that every element can
that the rich and powerful took over and that brands realized
have two types of contradictions: an anti-contradiction and
that most bloggers have quite a limited influence. Some new
a non-contradiction. If the anti-contradiction of the classic
names, who worked really hard broke through and carried on,
menswear revival trend was the feminization of men, the
now having to face the trials of being
non-contradiction came in the form
part of the new media.
of nihilism and boredom. A lot of men’s fashion, especially the one
Many of these fashion blogs were
created after 2016-17 had at its core
menswear blogs, which documented
a strong negation of almost every-
the revival of classic menswear. The
thing. In this sense, we could see a lot
early 2010s were a great time from a
of minimal wannabe designs, whiny
sartorial point of view, as classic tai-
clothes (and models), and downright
loring, colorful suits, colorful socks,
dystopian fashions walk down the run-
elegant shoes and everything that
ways of the world. A lot of the odd club
comes with it came back in style,
kid aesthetic of the 80s was brought
only this time around with a better
back to life and many created what
fit than ever before. Men were now
they themselves called “anti-fashion”
investing almost as much as
rather than fashion.
19th-century dandies in their style: brands offering beau-
One of the reason why these an-
tiful pocket squares, ties and
ti-aesthetics managed to become
shirts exploded. Around 2013,
so popular was that postmodern
there was a very fun vibe in the
thought took over the mainstream
men’s fashion world, as finally,
cultural discourse and relativism
the dapper gents of the world
became the norm of the day. And
seemed to go mainstream.
so, we saw an end not just of beauty, but also of ethics and, some
This trend did not last for very
would argue, decency.
long though, as more and more brands started to put out over-
Towards the very end of the de-
sized clothes. At first, it seemed
cade though, a small start of a
like an interesting trend and a
turning of the tide became visible,
precise balance with the conveyor belt of suits, but soon enough,
with classic menswear coming back in style.
it became annoying, especially as most men stopped identifying with this style. The oversized trend seemed to have replaced everything that was “nice and decent” and did not
Angels & Demons
a hot issue of the day, many labels started to dress men in
J
gender-bending outfits or even in women’s dresses. This com-
culture of the 2010s go from something exciting and capti-
pletely lost the international audiences and many style-orient-
vating to a caricature of itself. People started clapping to ev-
ed gents checked out of their style sites newsletters.
ery political statement; there was an inflation of terminology
see any stopping anytime soon. Many guys were disappointed. Brands quickly went from celebrating masculine style to hiding it. As drag entered the mainstream and gender being
ust as the reality shows of the 2000s tended to be authentic during their first seasons and “overacted” during their latter seasons, as characters desperately try to be-
come memes or to become quotable, so did the mainstream
and people swung back and forth, depending on how the wind Armani, Dolce and Gabbana and others put classic clothes on
38 | InCompanytAttirehClub
blows. But, this is how it’s always been.
resented the acceleration of this process. This is why maybe people think about downloading consciousness in computers to escape the world Cypher-style, this is why people join new social media platforms such as Thinkspot, Minds or Parler or quit them all and this is why people are increasingly separated. Some argue that this is an ideological war, others that it is a political war and some voices even explain that it is even a genetic war. The bottom line is that there is probably no going back and that we will have to reinvent the world.
The End of the Game
R
eality shows were great during the 2000s because they allowed for an outside view of ourselves, but once we became our own producers through IG stories and FB
posts, the outside view disappears and all that remains is the noise. The 2010s may be the last decade (a time at least), when we
Religion was not missed by the strong cultural shifts of the teens of the 21st century. As often in history, religion at large was used to harm people and to garner guilt and even hate in
can still speak of an intersection of people in a “public square”. As of the 2020s, it is most likely that groups will grow apart more and more (they already do) and will have completely dif-
some cases.
ferent histories and ideas to tell and remember. We’re already
The most prominent religious shock of the decade was prob-
ing manners by different people and this will only grow over
ably the 2013 resignation of Pope Benedict XVI, which he announced on February 11. The Vatican had not been faced with such an event since He was Gregory XII in 1415. Pope Benedict XVI was replaced by Pope Francis, a likable figure from Argentina. It wasn’t too long though until many Catholics (and not just Catholics) lost hope in the new pope, who, because of his actions and words, they saw as more of a political figure
seeing how certain events are perceived in completely opposthe next years. One can clearly see that this decade was the massive conclusion of the culture of the 20th century. The good, as well as the bad, were exposed and people are now making room for a new culture to arise.
with a social agenda than a spiritual leader.
It is very likely that in a few decades from now, people will
One of the biggest moments that was disapproved by Cath-
as a simpler time. But, this does not mean that the times were
olics was the Pachamama scandal, when Alexander Tschugguel and a companion threw a few Amazonian statues that were located inside a Vatican church in the Tiber. Again, many
look back at this time with nostalgia and will see the 2010s calm. And while we may remember who some people in the public eye were and what events were taking place, we will all remember these in the settings of our own lives.
turned to online voices such as Dr. Taylor Marshall for wisdom and classic religious living rather than to the leader of the Church. A Catholic priest in the Archdiocese of Mexico City even burned effigies of the pagan Pachamama statues and led a service to atone for the sin of worshiping. In this context, it is not surprising that many people became obsessed with Kanye West’s new religious self and his Christian album.
Read this article with a song!
The Only Way Out is Down
T
he teens of the 21st century were also a time of horrific attacks and unimaginable cruelty. These things are extremely sensitive topics, but in many ways, they con-
tributed to the overall demoralization of the world. In the end, the 2010s were a time of great inversions. Undoubtedly, many had noticed that values became turned upside down for decades - it can be even argued that the world has not even recovered from WWI and WWII, but this decade rep-
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#
A C
LO O K
B O O K
The
Portfolio ROCAMBOLESCO is a brand new fashion initiative which focuses on bringing a collection of sleek, modern clothes for the modern man. With sharp cuts and a forward-leaning vision, ROCAMBOLESCO (abbreviated RCMBLSC) is now in the launching phase. Discover an exclusive preview in our portfolio. Photos: Attire Club Model: Alexandru Popovici
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LievArts.com
Four Seasons Art
I N
T H E I R
O W N
W O R D S
C ATC HI NG UP WI T H
Mark St. James Mark St. James is a style blogger from Vancouver, Canada.
How would you define your way of dressing? My way of dressing has changed dramatically over the last decade. I used to wear a cape-style coat with dramatic aviators to Fashion Week and was no stranger to fur. In the past 5 years, I’ve recycled the fur and toned down my style considerably. I now think a great fitting black t-shirt and slouchy cotton pants are refined and with COVID turning everyone into couch potatoes, I find myself buying into natural fabrics like cashmere, cotton, and linen to feel more comfortable at home or crusading the front lines at the grocery store. Since clubs and a lot of restaurants have made it safe, but ultimately less fun to go out, I am spending more time at coffee shops in an oversized blazer with a breathable tee underneath with minimal jewelry. A stylish and subtle watch goes a long way. As for shoes, I’m living in my runners. But of course, always keeping the soles clean. Which brands do you like and follow closely? Since my sneaker game is weak, I always try to stay up to date with the latest kicks from New Balance, Giuseppe Zanotti, Louboutin and Gucci, to name a few. Even if I can’t head to the store and pick them up today, I see stores like Simon’s (and even H&M) create great styles that are inspired by the sock shoe or the extended sole runner seen on the high fashion runways. I find myself zooming in on the sneakers at runways across the world to see what’s coming up next. For clothing, I love the brand Ten Tree. I’m inspired by their eco-friendly stance where they plant 10 trees for every purchase you make. It’s incredible. The fabrics are super soft like Tencel, organic cotton and hemp. Do you have any style icons you look up to? I love David Rose played by Daniel Levy on Schitt’s Creek. His oversized sweaters and often monochromatic looks are something I would definitely wear. I take what he wears in the show and tone it down a few notches. Do you have a grooming routine? Grooming is a big part of feeling good, so I think every guy needs to treat themselves in this way. I like to get a pedicure every six weeks and really enjoy the calf massage that comes with it. But for my face, I wash with a non-greasy soap, use a toner to balance my pH, slap on an organic moisturizer and exfoliate twice a week. I do occasionally use men’s makeup to conceal dark circles under my eyes or puffiness as well as a bronzer. I only use makeup for special occasions and none of my close friends or family know I’m wearing it, it’s just for confidence.
52 | InCompanytAttirehClub
Photos courtesy of Mark St. James
Maybe it is because he appeals to my more dramatic side, but
What is your workout regime? I used to work out 6 days a week pre-COVID, but now I find that I get to the gym, mask on, 3-4 times a week. It’s more difficult because it is appointment based, but I like to do the staple legs, chest and triceps, back and biceps routine. I find it works for me and adds bulk while still fitting into my clothing (for the most part). I did recently have to get rid of 90% of my suit jackets due to them not fitting in the arms. But that’s how it goes and I prefer this new dad bod look over the leaner one I had in my youth. What are you currently reading, watching, and listening to? I just started the third book of Brandon Sanderson’s The Stormlight Archive, Oathbringer. This 4400-page fantasy trilogy has had me riveted since I first picked it up with an imaginative yet realistic setting, believable characters and character development, and it is expertly edited. I’m a nerd at heart, so this really appeals to me. Since lockdown hit back in March, I basically watched everything on Netflix, Crave, Disney+ and Amazon Prime. But I will always go back to classics like Suits, Wolf of Wall Street, and Disney classics like Emperor’s New Groove (which I watched last night). I also really enjoy the high budget reality competition shows like Next In Fashion and Glow Up. Music-wise I’m really an open-minded person. I like everything from acapella like Pentatonix and Peter Hollens. Love WAP. And Popstar with Drake and Bieber (minus Bieber’s hair… obviously). Discover Mark’s website at marquisoffashion.com
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A T T I R E
C LU B
L I B R A RY
AttireClub.org Blog Must-Reads Discover a list of must-read articles from our blog. Simply scan the QR code on the right or visit our website to check out the posts! Trail Running Shoes are THE Shoe Trend for Men – Even in the Autumn Cottagecore: The Next Big Trend Baselworld Becomes Houruniverse What Should a Man Wear on a Date A Quick Guide to the Main Dress Codes Give Yourself a Makeover in 7 Easy Steps The Guide to Long T-shirts The 3 Rules Of Wearing a Colorful Suit How to Wear a Floral Shirt 6 Fashion Subcultures You Should Know About How to Dress to Impress on the First Date What Approach to Fashion Do You Have? 4 Things to Consider When Buying Jeans 5 Fashion Staples that Don’t Go Out of Style What Should Children Wear? 54 | InCompanytAttirehClub
From the Attire Club Travel Archive
Evenings in St. Moritz Situated in the Upper Engadine at 1856m, St. Moritz has an above-average number of sunny days, namely over 300 each year. This is why, in 1930, the Sun was chosen as the resort’s symbol. St. Moritz has often been a pioneer, for example, the first electric Christmas light shone here in 1878, in 1889 the first golf tournament in the Alps took place here and in 1935 one of the first ski lifts in Switzerland was in operation. Photo: Attire Club attireclub.org |
55
S T Y L E
G U I D E
Leather Jacket Care:
L
This Is How You Make Worn Leather Clean and Soft Again eather is a very strong, durable and flexible mate-
that there won’t be any odd reaction which will damage your
rial. However, sometimes, even the coolest leather
jacket. Then, you can simply use the agent from seam to seam
jackets can go a little astray - it’s bound to happen
to ensure that the area remains uniform.
after a good amount of wears. Removing stains from suede leather
If your leather jacket is dirty, dry and stiff, discov-
er the Attire Club guide to how to clean and care for smooth leather and suede so that it becomes clean and supple again.
F
or suede, when the stain is fresh, you can try to absorb the moisture with a paper towel without rubbing. Dry stains and dirt should not be wet-cleaned. This often
leaves stain marks. If you have some really troubling stains, it
What do you need to know before you clean your leather
would most likely be best to consult a specialist for stains that
jacket?
cannot be removed.
B
efore you can start with the cleaning and caring, you first need to know what type of leather is in front of you. There are two different types, which have different
properties and should be cleaned differently because water is absorbed on suede (leather with a napped finish) and not on smooth leather. With one exception: aniline leather (leath-
Can leather jackets be machine-washed?
I
f the jacket needs a basic cleaning, you can also wash the leather jacket in the washing machine. For this, you will need a pH-neutral and re-greasing leather detergent. More-
over, the jacket should be turned inside out before washing.
er dyed exclusively with soluble dyes) is one of the softest
You should also make sure always to follow the washing in-
leathers, but it absorbs drops. Therefore, if you have a smooth
structions. Most jackets survive washing in the machine well,
leather jacket, you should check whether it is aniline leather. If not, you can treat your jacket like any other smooth leather. How can you be sure that something is genuine leather?
F
irst indication: the real leather label. The problem: It is not compulsory to add, and it does not say anything about the quality of the leather. You can only be really sure
when you have worn the jacket or if you know the source to be credible (product description, customer service, etc.). Leather stretches with time and is breathable. Sometimes, analyzing the texture of leather can be a good indicator. If the leather has certain scratches or lacks complete uniformity (this is not to say that it should be all over the place) - it is most likely real leather, as genuine leather is, of course, imperfect, by virtue of being organic. Synthetic leather is usually more repetitive in texture and very uniform, given that it is made from plastic. How to make leather smooth again
S
tains and dirt are relatively easy to get out when it comes to smooth leather jackets. You can clean the jacket dry with a soft brush or wet with a special leather
cleaner. If you use a specialized cleaner, you should probably try it on a concealed area first. This way, you will make sure
56 | InCompanytAttirehClub
but if you’ve spent several thousand euros on the piece, you should have it professionally cleaned. If you have leather jackets with differently colored parts, it is best to have a specialized service take care of them, as the different parts can react differently to the same cleaning process. Otherwise, you risk that the colors will fade away.
Do you have to care for leather jackets?
O
ver time, leather loses fat and moisture and becomes dry. In this sense, what you should do is apply leather grease or oil sparingly on a regular basis. This will also
help protect the jacket against unwanted moisture. Suede, on the other hand, should be permeated, preferably immediately after purchase. When it comes to suede, it is essential to re-
How do you dry a leather jacket after cleaning?
D
ry your wet jacket in the air in the shade or with the cold program in the dryer. When the leather is no longer damp, it usually feels stiffer. We recommend kneading
and pulling the jacket so that it becomes soft again. Can leather be ironed?
T
member not to wear it if it rains. What do you do if you get caught in the rain with suede?
I
f you get suede wet because of rain or other factors, it is important to remember to never put leather on the heater. It’s better to hang in the air, but not directly in the sun. The light
makes the material hard and brittle and fades the colors. You
he answer to whether one can iron leather is yes, but
can rub out water stains with a rubber brush in the direction
only very carefully, with a dry cloth over it and at a me-
of the grain.
dium temperature. It is a best practice to try it on the
inner lining first. If it’s not absolutely necessary, then keep your hands off the iron.
The correct storage of the leather jacket
W
hen it comes to storage, leather jackets should hang loosely. If the jack-
et has to go into the suitcase, you can wrap it up smoothly and then take it out soon. Otherwise, wrinkles will form. To prevent the leather from going moldy, the jacket should not be stored in plastic or a damp cellar. Furthermore, oiled jackets can stain and should, therefore, be kept away from light-colored clothing in particular. To conclude, it can be said that, with the right care, leather can withstand quite big problems. These are little likely to occur anyway, but it is essential to make sure that you care for your leather pieces. If you want to enjoy your leather jacket for as long as possible, you should care for it regularly, hang it up properly and rather not clean it too often. Because even proper cleaning puts a certain amount of strain on the leather every time you
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wear it.
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T R A V E L
A L P H A B E T
S for Slovakia
Slovakia is a small, but extremely beautiful country in Central Europe. It is the home to many impressive cultural landmarks and has an impressive natural landscape. The capital, Bratislava, is a tourist hotspot and just the right place to spend a weekend, a week or a month. Discover some interesting facts about it. Text / Photos: Attire Club SLOVAKIA HAS THE WORLD’S HIGHEST NUMBER of castles and chateaux per capita. To get a sense of this idea, imagine that there are 180 castles and 425 chateaux in a country with the entire population far smaller than New York City! SLOVAKIA’S POPULATION was of about 5.45 million in 2018. Before going independent, Slovakia was part of Czechoslovakia. The country split into two entities, Czechia and Slovakia in 1993 by mutual agreement. MORE THAN 6000 CAVES have been discovered so far in Slovakia! The most impressive caves can be found in the national parks of Low Tatras, Slovak Paradise and Slovak Karst.
The Slovak flag
SLOVAKIA HAS A UNIQUE ACTIVE GEYSER that spouts water to a height of 15 m / 49.2 ft. It erupts every one and a half days. Similar geysers can be found only in Iceland. THE BEAUTIFUL VILLAGE OF ČIČMANY in Northern Slovakia has a status of world’s first reservation of folk architecture. More than 130 houses belong to the historic preservation area. IN THE VYCHODOSLOVENSKE MUSEUM, there is a treasure on display consisting nearly 3000 gold coins, two m / 6.5 ft long gold chain and medals from the 17th century. BRATISLAVA is the only capital in the world that is bordering two countries: Austria and Hungary. Moreover, all three cities are stretched on the banks of the Danube river, and you can take a boat cruise from Vienna to Bratislava that takes only 90 minutes.
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A bridge in Bratislava An outline of Slovakia and its regions
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THE OLD MEDIEVAL TOWN OF LEVOČA is the home of the high-
The Bratislava Castle
est wooden altar in the world. This impressive work was created by Master Paul. It is located in the Church of St. James right in the historical center of Levoča. The altar is 18,6 m / 61 ft high and 6 m / 19.6 ft wide altar was made without the use of a single nail! A GOOD NUMBER OF FAMOUS PEOPLE have in part Slovak origins. Examples include Angelina Jolie, Audrey Hepburn, Andy Warhol, Paul Newman and Bon Jovi. A MONUMENTAL 8,5 m / 27.8 ft long Bethlehem with moving figures was crafted in a period of 15 years and is located in the House of Mercy in Rajecka Lesna. SLOVAKIA IS THE WORLD LEADER in cars produced per capita. THE OLDEST ARCHEOLOGICAL TOY TO BE DISCOVERED in Central Europe was found in the archaeological site near Kosice. It is a four-wheeled pushcart from the grave of a child and comes from the period around 1600 BC. You can see it in the Archaeological Institute of SAV in Kosice.
View of Bratislava
An inverted pyramid building in Bratislava
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Your Style Is Worth Your While
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Current Obsessions Aston Martins Everywhere
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S T Y L E
N OT E B O O K
Our Small Autumn Book As the warm season draws to a close, it slowly gets colder outside and the days become shorter. The sun’s rays are now noticeably cooler: an unmistakable sign that autumn is beginning. Autumn is the transitional period between summer and winter in the temperate zones of the Earth. Now the leaves of the trees are changing their color, and many grains and fruits are ripe - it is harvest time. Many people also enjoy autumn because of its colorful splendor. They are happy about the many fruits that ripen in autumn, enjoy the bright autumn flowers and take a walk through a colorful deciduous forest. New photos: Attire Club
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Seeing Sounds
FA S H I O N
A N D
T E C H
Signs from the Future:
KEY FOCUS AREAS FOR FASHIONTECH Text: Attire Club
Fashion and technology seem to be two parallel universes that never intersect. However, for the past few years, each of these universes has been trying to make an incursion into the other, with varying degrees of success. 3D printers, smart textiles, connected clothing and virtual
Sustainable fabric and garment production
reality - these may have been concepts from a sci-fi novel a
Sustainable fabrics and new approaches to making garments
few decades ago, but, today, they are the innovations that will
are defined by the idea of making clothes that will either last
mark tomorrow’s clothes and accessories.
for a long time or which can have a shorter use time, but which can be easily discarded. In this sense, we are seeing innova-
The fashion world has seen over the last years a series of
tions in the field of renewable fabrics, which can be “grown�
highly innovative projects that have used clothing and acces-
from the original fabric or materials made from unconvention-
sories as the basis for tech projects with remarkable proper-
al and surprising sources, such as fruits or leaves.
ties. While the field of fashiontech is still a very narrow niche, there are many people who are taking an interest in it. Smart materials Even though there are many disruptive projects on the market,
Another type of innovative materials is, of course, the sector of
the different approaches people and companies are taking to
smart materials. These are fabrics that are infused with tech-
the combination of fashion and technology can already be di-
nology, which allow the wearer to have some type of super-
vided into a few key areas.
power. From jackets which incorporate the internet to fabrics
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that release a kind of cream for those with hypersensitive skin,
direction where it will be defined by contrasts. This is some-
the options of what can be done today are staggering. The
thing that is reflected in fashion as well. It is already clear that
main issue with these fabrics is that they cost incredibly much
some people can afford and have access to the latest innova-
and thus are not available to the masses.
tions, while others don’t. Even if we are not talking about some hyper-advanced item of clothing, but just about something like a super-performing sneaker, we are already seeing a great di-
Digitally-driven manufacturing techniques
vide. Will an Olympics running competition be won by some-
New technologies (which are actually not so new anymore)
one who has the ultra-aerodynamic sneakers or by someone
like blockchain and artificial intelligence (AI) allow brands to
who wears regular old shoes? Clearly by the first one. Much in
procure, manufacture and sell garments and accessories in
the same way, in the next decades or so, we will see a world of
a very transparent and fair way. Some companies are already
people who have access to the latest technologies and a world
placing a big focus on the idea of using only materials that
of those who don’t. Right now, the differences don’t seem so
have been ethically gathered, produced and which is sold only
big, but they will clear as day in a few years.
by authorized dealers. This way, customers can rest assured that their rings and bags have not been made by children or
It can be said that today fashion has a rendez-vous with time.
sourced in unethical working conditions. Supply chain trans-
The future belongs to those who will use the technologies of
parency and traceability will be a big trend in the decade to
their time and satisfy the needs and desires of consumers.
come in the world of fashion and style. While we are seeing a great deal of progress and highly interesting applications of fashiontech, many people fail to see the hidden part of this progress. The world is clearly moving in a
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M E TA FA S H I O N
Bo Gosse The man of the 2010s
How do today’s men feel? Are they going through a crisis of virility in the face of the feminization of society? If we were to make a portrait of the man of the 2010s, what would it be like?
E
Text / Photos: Attire Club ach era has its zeitgeist and its own typologies. If you
where he frequently throws lavish (but informal) parties that
think about it, each historical moment has had its ideal
are unexceptionally tremendous successes and are usually
body, its ideal fashions and, of course, its typical (which
raided. (But he has a way with The Law). Clubs: Discotheque,
is not necessarily the ideal) psychological profile.
Le Gigolo, Muriel’s National Film Theatre, La Poubellle, Rockingham, Ronnie Scott’s (offer drinks at, but has never joined
In 1963, Axle, a magazine, published an amusing and quite in-
The Establishment). Takes: The Observer, Peace News, Dexa-
triguing portrait of a sixties male archetype. The piece was
drin. Glances at: The Times, Daily Express, Izvetzia, Private
written by Ken Howard and Alan Blaikleym, who were the
Eye, Encounter, Town, Playboy, Paris-Match, Sight and Sound,
editors of the magazine. At the time, they were 23 and later
his horoscope. Went through novel and poetry reading stage
they became pop music composers, writing hits such as Dave
at 15; still studies reviews quite carefully. Listens to: Today
Dee’s Xanadu.
(2nd edition), Pick of the Pops. Watches: Panorama, Tonight, Compact (for laughs and because he knows some of the cast
Reading their portrait can’t make one not wonder what the ar-
very intimately), Points of View. Outlook: Intellectual inferiors
chetype of the current man is.
regard him as unassumingly highbrow, while academics find his ‘untouched originality’ refreshing. Remarkably adaptable,
Their article, titled Son of the Sixties, read in part:
is equally at home in the company of Soho villains and com-
“Build: Tall; slim; muscular without exercise. Complexion: clear;
pany directors, pop singers and clergymen. Mixes everything
permanently bronzed without sun or man-tan; never sweats...
from sex to drinks and generally likes neither straight. Believes
Seldom laughs (but rare smiles are planned and dazzling - he
in experience (hash-smoking, etc.) as a right rather than as
was born in natural fluoride area). Hair: Black; well-combed,
anything wildly off-beat, but demands best in everything. A
no dressing; styling suggests but never quite descends to
self-confessed dilettante, seeks to avoid type-casting; likes to
more obvious fashions of the day (Frost, Como, etc.) Clothes:
confound admirers of both sexes by appearing in public with
by John Michael and Marks and Spencer. Can wear a white
wholly atypical companions. An agnostic, takes pleasure in
shirt for the whole week. General appearance: Air of masculine
arguing the case for Christianity and was cynical at attempts
competence cunningly offset by one or two ambiguous touch-
at compromise in Honest to God. Politics: Wouldn’t vote in
es (name-bracelet, St. Christopher chain, pastel denim shirt);
the next election even if he were 21. Occasionally supports
usual expression, a mixture of Come-Hither and Come-Off-It;
Committee of 100 demonstrations, but no longer marches ...
can appear alternately boyish and authoritative, a trump com-
Future: Middle-age. And then…?”
bination arousing maternal and subject feelings in women simultaneously, rendering him irresistible. Looks at best after an all-night party. Background: only son of fashionably separated parents (White Russian mother, Franco-Jewish father) whom he visited alternately in school holidays; discreet fostering of
H
aving read this portrait, one realizes how hard it is to sketch it from within. Moreover, it is definitely a great ex-
ercise in imagination to think of what the description of the modern man is.
their sense of guilt won him ample allowance and Porsche at 18. Education: Attended Bedales where he swam on summer
In 2005, French rapper Disiz rleased a song titled “Bo Gosse”,
nights in nude and was encouraged extracurricular activities;
a text-sound play on the term “beau gosse”, which translates
he in turn encouraged extra-martial activity of master’s wife
like “handsome guy” or so (“handsome boy, kid, dude). The
who fondly imagined she had done the seducing. Always the
song, funny and lacking in seriousness as it may be, was in
centre of any group, without the responsibility of actual lead-
many ways a lot ahead of its time, as pretty much drew out
ership... Scraped 3 G.C.E. passes and entered St. Martin’s Art
the outline of the young man of the decade to come. Currently,
School where... he gained an undistinguished diploma. Occu-
it’s too early to talk about the man of ‘20s, but we already have
pations: rejected father’s suggestion that he should ‘work his
some perspective on the man of the teens. In the song, which
way up from the bottom’ (in three years) in his costume jewel-
is not entirely PG-13, in case you were planning on listening
lery business. […] Residence: From liberal expense account was
to it with your grandma, we can find lyrics such as “On a tous
able to set up basement flat in renovated Earls Court terrace,
un beau gosse en nous… Si si, même toi, t’inquiète” (“We’ve all
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got a handsome kid in us… Yes, even you, don’t worry”), “C’est ta voix de beau gosse intérieure qui te parle” (“It’s your voice of the inner handome kid that’s talking to you”).
T
he modern young man, it can be said, is definitely someone who feels disenfranchised. He’s someone who has
done his studies and paid his dues and yet, no real or valuable outcome has followed. It can be said that the modern young
The song goes on to say “Moi j’suis un beau gosse, évidem-
man is someone who in many ways feels cheated by society.
ment qu’je m’aime, moi, c’est tout dans la sape, tout dans la
Nevertheless, he won’t back down too easily or, better said,
caisse” (“I’m a handsome kid, so obviously I like myself, it’s all
will find a way to reject society’s conditions by embracing
about the clothes, all about the wheels”).
some of them in his own way.
Later, we hear “Ouais, ouais, j’vis encore chez mes parents, et
He is a guy who realizes that he may never have a family or a
alors, ça fait quoi, d’toutes façons, j’ai qu’trente ans” (“Yeah,
home - working a job or even two jobs won’t pay the bills for
yeah, I still live at my parent’s, so what, I’m only 30 anyways”).
that. Moreover, after 26, he does not want to live with room-
The rapper also adds that “Le net est un océan à thons, faut
mates anymore - what’s the point in that? - so he decides to
savoir y pêcher” (“The Web is an ocean full of ugly chicks in
move back home until a better opportunity arises. The reason
which you’ve got to know how to fish”).
why he does not want to live in a rented place is because he only sees it as a loss of money. In the end, what is he going to
One lyric also claims “Même désarmé, j’ai plus d’un tour dans
do in a small apartment surrounded by a bunch of noisy and
ma poche, jamais bredouille c’est la devise du beau gosse”
nosey neighbors? The current youngsters don’t have guests
(“Even disarmed, I’ve got more tricks up my sleeves, never go
or entertain, and intimacy can be found in other places. He
back empty-handed, that’s the motto of the handsome kid”).
doesn’t really need to cook or anything; he goes out with his buddies and, after eating at a fast food place, he goes out
These lyrics, which seemed very hedonistic and quite self-cen-
clubbing for the night.
tered at the time now seem to be the mirror reflection of the contemporary gosse.
Given that he is not really allowed to reach for real values, he mostly manifests these online on sites like Reddit or YouTube.
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He is also au current with FB, Twitter
are OK with “polyamorous” relationships. Many male feminists
and Instagram, but also has a profile
are “queer” or “gender-bending” or “gender non-conforming”
on BitChute, Parler and Minds. He is
or “gender non-binary” depending on the day. Except for oth-
sad, but, at the same time, he wants
er male feminists and female feminists, pretty much all oth-
to do or have things that give him a
er groups of men consider these men to be weak “soy boys”.
sense (if only a shred) of dignity and
There is even a lot of talk on the web about the “soy boy smile”,
value. And so, he is a hard worker at
which is an overeuphoric and dishonest smile displayed by
the gym and enjoys looking good and
these men, with the purpose of hiding their frustrations and
drawing attention. Some dudes have
sadness and to keep their overbearing girlfriends or wives -
their car as their most valued pos-
not to mention to gain a community. They’re considered to
session, while others lift themselves
be an embarrassment to male kind and described with words
up with a few (they can’t afford too
such as “beta” or “orbiter”. Some people consider feminist
many) designer clothes and accesso-
males to be simply guys who pretend they feminist in order
ries (bags, sunglasses).
to “get” women.
Every so often, he goes on vacation
MGTOW. Men Going Their Own Way, abbreviated MGTOW (and
- maybe a city break or something
curiously pronounced “meeg-tow”) is a movement which sees
cheap and from time to time (Ibiza or
women in general as bad and thus considers that they (and
Mykonos would be ideal, but mostly
feminized society at large) should be rejected. There are differ-
anything will do), he watches pirated
ent types and levels of MGTOW - some still believe in finding
movies on his laptop or on his huge
a “unicorn” - meaning a needle in the haystack woman, while
computer screen. He does enjoy old-
others simply reject women altogether and prefer celibacy. In
er action movies as well as the new
the MGTOW community, which is very active on Reddit, but
Transformers, a few series on Netflix
also on YouTube where it is helmed by user Sandman, there is
or Amazon Prime, but is also inter-
a lot of talk about the upcoming sex robots. MGTOWs also use
ested in controversial films like the
acronyms such as THOT (That Whore Over There) or AWALT
Joker or The Hater.
(All Women Are Like That), even though some men think that
T
NAWALT (Not All Women Are Like That) and admire conserhe modern young man tries
vative beauties such as Lauren Southern, Brittany Pettibone
to understand life and to navi-
or Faith Goldy, who portray strong, yet classically feminine
gate the different male niches, even
women. While MGTOWs may seem as a joke and a caricature
though he is not really part of any of
to many, there is in fact a lot of substance to the moment.
them - he may be the intellectual, dark and alpha type, but is
These men have made a simple calculus which has lead them
not sure himself whether he really does qualify. But who does?
to the conclusion that in the West (if not everywhere in the world), the chances of having your finances and mental stabil-
Some of these niches are:
ity crushed by a woman are very high and are thus not willing
Intellectual, Dark and Alpha. Even though they are not a cate-
to take the risk of divorce, custody battles and alimony.
gory per se, men with old-school masculine traits have these days become a niche and a category of their own. Today, these
GGTOW. GGTOW, pronounced “gig-tow” is the gay version of
are men who don’t like to be part of any category and who con-
MGTOW. GGTOWs don’t reject other men, but still women and
sider themselves as free thinkers. The reason behind this is a
feminized society at large. GGTOWs are men who don’t want
rather nuanced and complex one: classic men are very differ-
the resources of gay men to go to the feminist intersectional
ent, from athletic types to artists, there are a bit too many vari-
coalition. They also despise the fact that gay men are often
ations to mix everyone together. These men are usually more
treated by women as their accessories, purses, confidants in
drawn together by what they don’t like, rather by what they like
which they can pour their issues in, bodyguards and clowns.
and love to find common ground in order to have complex and
The GGTOW movement is relatively small and there is not a
deep discussions, whether it may be about sports, conspira-
clear representative of GGTOW, even though there have been
cies, politics, psychology, economy or technology and have as
some active voices. Someone who could be described as GG-
a goal to have a structured society.
TOW, but who is not a good representation of the movement is controversial agitator Milo Yiannopoulos. However, Milo
Male Feminists. Male feminists, as their designation explains,
has been rejected by most groups which could have him as a
are men who are all about feminism. They support women, go
member because of his comments and rhetoric. GGTOWs are
to feminist marches and read feminist literature. They wear
fans of not only the young conservatives of the online world
t-shirts saying “the future is female” and often feel ashamed
such as Candance Owens or Guy Bensen, but also of the old
to bring their masculine energy (well, you know) to feminist
guard, represented by women such as Ann Coulter, Christina
poetry slams. These men see themselves in the Try Guys and
Hoff Sommers and Camille Paglia, who are their Chers and
fanboy over politicians like Justin Trudeau. Many times, they
Madonnas.
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Incels. Incels are men who describe themselves as “involun-
are out of work and who are not married (or not married to
tary celibates”. These men are sad and lonely guys who drool
someone they like), things will go south very fast. And, giv-
over women they can’t have. They are often quite sad cases,
en that we are in this exact situation, we will soon see a big
but their requests are not clear. Maybe socialized vaginas?
change in the world. The tide will turn.
This may sound like a joke, but given the direction in which the world is going, this could soon become a reality. Incels are angry at women, but want them. The poster boy for incels is a young man whose name is not really known, but who famous for a YouTube interview he gave in which he explained that he asked about 2000 women out and was rejected by all of them, including “fats and uglies”.
O
ur modern man is neither an MRA (men’s rights activist), nor is he a feminist. He tries to be respectful towards most
people, but often finds it hard to find reasons to be respectful. He’s just making for ways to make it. The modern guy is in some ways fearless, in others fearful. He needs help, but his buddies can’t provide it. Who knows - once he and his bros will realize that they do count and that are powerful, a change might very well take place. Pretty soon, the different types of guys will realize that they have more in common than they think. However, each group will fight for their ideals.
W
hat is odd is that society seems to ignore something that should be obvious, namely the fact that when you
have, in a given group, be it a town, a country or a continent, a very large amount of men who don’t own any properties, who
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FA S H I O N
W O R L D
Good Clothes are Rare: Dimoral in Review
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Text: Attire Club
e all look for great fashion that we can use in order to build our own style. But, to do that, one needs some great pieces to work with. When going shop-
ping, whether it is in a store on online, we often see the same things over and over again. This is why it’s always great to find brands that offer amazing clothes. We recently discovered Dimoral, a Dutch label founded in 2015 and were glad we did. The main reason for this is that they offer a series of great essentials, such as t-shirts and hoodies that have a great structure to them and that feature some really cool “embellishments”. To start off, the overall structure and fit of the Dimoral clothes is great: the brand has really paid close attention to create clothes with a clear and sharp frame. In fashion, the number one rule of aesthetics, before color or anything else, is fit. And so, it can be said that Dimoral has checked the number one thing on the to-do list for new brands. Another plus-point in regards to the fit of the clothes is their design. The hoodies and t-shirts are quite simple in design (they compensate on another level), but the polo shirts have a really updated and modern design, suited for modern men. What they did was to “raise” the collar line and to give the polos and overall futuristic feel by making them very closely and tightly cut and shaped. They feature some great embroidery and are made from mercerized cotton. The other pieces, which are more classic in terms of shape, feature some really outstanding embroidery. This is not something many brands do, which is why we really like them. It is always important to be able to stand out with something that is wearable and cool. The hoodies are decorated with more than just embroidery, as they also feature metal eyelets, cord ends, the brand’s “Dim” signature-trimming and a beautiful black velvet around the sleeve. For extra comfort and a feel of refinement, you will also black velvet inside the hoodies. In fashion, as we always say, half of one’s style is his attitude The embroidered models are also a nice touch: they feature exotic animals, in both representational and abstract models. This way, they bring a dash of modernity and a strong masculine attitude. To conclude, we can say that we were glad to discover Dimoral. Their clothes are a great example of what good clothing should be: comfortable, stylish and, above all, it should be
Shop at di-moral.com
and this can be sometimes given by the way the clothes feel.
something that one likes and enjoys wearing. We’ll definitely look out for what the brand will do next and are sure many men will enjoy discovering them both on and offline.
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THE ATTIRE CLUB MOOD DIARY Our mood board as a visual journal 82 | InCompanytAttirehClub
EQUESTRIAN ELEGANCE The world of horseback riding has always been associated with notions like nobility, strength and dignity. From the adorned horses of medieval knights to the imposing equestrian statues of old to the majestically-groomed horses of jumping competitions - horses are a symbol of purity, resilience and grace.
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Seeing Sounds
Stories from our web Make sure to like, share and subscribe @attireclub
Check out some highlights of things we liked and shared on our IG stories feed!
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A R E P O RT O N THE PART Y AND T H E G U E S T S
A Festival to Remember: TamTam 2020
Soul Serenade
Text / Photos: Attire Club
E
very event organizer was severely impacted in 2020
resented in total. Thus, locals and the numerous tourists (as
by the context of the current crisis. One after another,
Brasov is a huge travel hot spot in the region) could enjoy not
events got shut down around the world; from the Gene-
just music, but also dance, theater, film, visual arts and more.
va Car Show back in the spring to the much-awaited Olympic
There was even an event in which cooking was mixed up with
Games, which were supposed to take place in Tokyo.
music. That is some idea! Last year, the festival took place in July, which was a great time and which allowed many tourists
However, some events did manage to happen, in one form or another. One of these few happy cases was that of the TamTam Festival, now at its 2nd edition, which is held in the Romanian city of Brasov. The festival was started last year by pianists Ioan-Dragos Dimitriu and Horia Mihail, both artists with
to enjoy the festival.
E
arlier this year, the organizers announced that the festival would be even bigger, lasting for more days and featuring
some international household acts and that they would even
international recognition, and took the world of East-European
have an “off-festival” season, organizing single events under
festivals by storm right from the start. In 2019, many artists
the title “TamTam Reverb”. But, as with any great story, there
performed on 7 outdoor stages and in a few indoor venues, in
was obviously a twist, as, right after the first concert from
parks and on the streets of the town. The festival, even though
the Reverb series, the world got thrown into the corona crisis,
it was organized by two classically-trained musicians, focused
which saw many events get cancelled. Unfortunately, while
not only on pretty much all types of music, but 5 arts were rep-
the crisis did have a great negative impact on the health of
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95 The good balcony seats. 4Tune Quartet playing in open air.
many, it also had a big impact on people’s work, their travel
were still quite restricted in pretty much all parts of the world,
plans and their incomes. Some of the most affected people
including the city of Brasov, which was subjected to some se-
were, of course, independent artists, who saw their livelihoods
rious (and on occasion dumb) restrictions. However, the intent
go down the drain for the year. And, what else can you do if
to move forward with the festival was still there, even though,
there are no jobs around?
it was clear that, if it were to take place (and that was a big if), it would have to be done with quite a different approach. Soon
Because they got the situation from the start, the organizers
enough, it became clear that it would have to be smaller and
of the TamTam Festival soon embarked on a unique project
that the international acts were completely off the table.
that allowed both artists and audiences to win. In this sense, they organized a series of shows and concerts which were streamed live online, to which people from anywhere in the world could buy a ticket. This way, singers and other perform-
T
he global and the local situations were changing fast, and so were the plans for the event. The dates got moved, the
lineup changed (more or less) and the location was still un-
ers did not see their income disappear completely and people
known. It would have been hard to make a festival with 7 out-
could enjoy a live concert at home. The Digital Stage project
door stages spread throughout the city with all the measures
was a very good idea, as it allowed people not only to take a
that were in place. Doing it somewhere in the city center would
break from the uncertainties of the present, but it also gave
have also been hard, since events were limited to a certain
viewers and artists a sense of being connected through the
number of attendees and were subjected to other conditions,
live show.
which would have made the whole thing a strategic mess.
T
he idea of being connected is something that is part of the
And so, the festival got pushed to September, if, of course, the
festival’s world view, as, through it, the organizers wish to
world would not enter a new lockdown. In the meantime, the
make art a part of people’s lives and also to allow those with
organizers found a great idea of how to make the whole thing
artistic interests (and inclinations) to take the stage on occa-
happen. It would take place on the sports field of a local elite
sion. #BeTheArtist.
high school, which is in the open air and which has fences, which allows the team to control how many people are inside.
A few endless months later, after the shutdown ended, events
Also, chairs had to be placed at a distance.
Calin Roman
Street sign One of the highlights of the festival: The Jazzy Jo experience A movie showing on the A. Saguna sports field
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The Musiculinaria event featuring Horia Mihail (piano - who also cooked), Filip Papa (cello and, who also cooked andIon Bogdan (flute)
The painting area
Food and drinks
Jewelry by Lehel
A marching band moment
Unveiled artists Performance art by NoAshaDa
Watzzy
An evening rock’n’roll concert
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Ioan-Dragos Dimitriu
Horia Mihail and his traveling piano
A great atmosphere ruled the area for the three days of the festival Dan Byron
B
ecause it was part of the festival’s concept to spread
rock’n’roll bands bring some dynamism to an otherwise lonely
throughout the city and make it vibrate at another level
autumn night.
for a few days, some parallel events were organized at a local private art gallery and also at some local restaurants and cafés where music can be played. Horia Mihail, together with violinist Filip Papa organized again the Musiculinaria event,
T
he reason why a festival consisting of an eclectic mix is a great idea is because it allows people not only to enjoy the
things they love and their type of artistic expression, but also
during which they played classical music and cooked for a big
to discover new things. In today’s world, where we all spend
audience and two exhibitions were also organized; one in front
hours each day glued to our screens in our own cultural bub-
of the high school’s stadium and another in a newly-renovated
bles, we often don’t really get to experiment with new ideas,
public square.
new ways of expression and with new people.
I
n the end, the festival turned out to be quite different than
It remains to be seen what will happen in the future with the
what was expected. It was, however, still a fun three days,
TamTam Festival, but, for now, it can brag about being one of
where people could walk around, listen to music, check out
the few standing events in a world that is quite shaken down.
paintings and photographs, enjoy music by the windows of
Its mere existence goes to show that things can be achieved
a gallery or outside it and have an overall good time. Foods
and that culture can thrive, even in a quite unfriendly environ-
and drinks were also present and people could also buy some
ment.
locally-made pieces of jewelry from a small brand. The nights brought the headliners to the stage, which were some big names in the nation and people had fun singing along, dancing and waving their phone flashlights. It was a dreamy at-
F
estivals today are on a growing trend. Clubs and pubs may be fun, but millennials really prefer festivals. In a recent
survey by Virtualnights, more than half of 18- to 35-year-olds
mosphere, of which the month of September 2020 had not
(54%) named music festivals and open-air events as their fa-
dreamt a few months prior.
vorite types of spending their free time.
What is great about a festival such as TamTam is that one
Great festivals bring together thousands and thousands of
can see so many forms of artistic expression is a somewhat
people in a festive atmosphere, which often seems other-
condensed time. Some of them are quite surprising, such
worldly. And in this atmosphere, we meet new people, we have
as a classical quartet reinterpreting rock songs, others are
fun and discover ourselves. And that is why festivals can really
timeless, such as Beethoven being played with refinement
be the next great thing and the place where people will create
and finesse. The smooth sounds of jazz seem to be just the
many of their happy memories.
right soundtrack for an early fall, and the beats and guitars of
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The Weaver’s Bastion is an impressive construction in the old town, and a great place for open-air shows such as the Piazzolla by Night show featuring the Bucharest Tango Trio. The show was held in honor of the recently-passed director of the Reduta Cultural Center, Mr. Marius Cisar.
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MODERN curiosities Text / Photos: Attire Club
In good, I’m gone. Everyone who has been on a medium-sized or large airport knows that these are hive-type places which would seem extraordinarily grandiose and complicated to the untrained eye. But, beyond their complexity, airports are fascinating because of how colorful they are. An international airport is not just a runway show in terms of clothes, but also a parade of mentalities, emotions and attitudes towards life. In the case of a bit calm at night, as many move towards hotels and a fair amount of travelers go to sleep on the benches or the floor. However, the dusk brings out new waves of people and so, the stores reopen. Checking out clothes and accessories at a very early hour is a rather unique experience. The first thing one may notice when checking out luxury stores such as Prada or Burberry at 5 or 6 in the morning is that of course, there is no champagne for the shopping experience. Secondly, there is a contrast between the joy and freshness of the vendors and the tired passengers, most of whom probably had to get up at 4 or earlier to catch their 6:30 flight. Luxury airport shoppers are usually a bit different than the regular high street shopper in that they are not necessarily the frequent Louis Vuitton or Dolce and Gabbana buyer. These are mostly people who enjoy the brands but find themselves bit too restrictive financially and benefit from the lower airport prices and sometimes of the vacation spirit to make a luxury purchase. Thus, these aren’t necessarily the folks who go from sleeping on the floor to the Gucci store, but they might be still wanting a serious sleep in a fine bed.
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Heavy sleepers
mid-size airport, things can become a
Speaking of fashion and sleep, Tom Ford said in an interview he once gave that a good sleep is his definition of luxury and anyone who has ever been sleep-deprived can agree. The reason why early shopping can be interesting is because it can help you create a psychological profile of your needs. It is correctly said that you should not buy groceries on a completely empty stomach, as you are going to be tempted to buy more of the things you don’t need only to satisfy the craving. In the same spirit, it can turn out to be quite funny to see what appeals to you in terms of shopping at different hours. This is an experiment that works both online and offline. Surely, it doesn’t mean that if you’ll go shopping tired you may want to buy a paja-
conditions. Analyzing whether different
ma, but for example, it is possible to in-
perfumes appeal to you differently from
cline more towards sporty, comfy items
context to context can also be a style
when you’re craving sleep than in other
diary entry.
If your baby could talk, what would she say?
Credo. Have you heard the gold digger anthem? It goes like this: “Me no study, Me no care, Me just marry millionaire If he die, I don’t cry, I just find another guy.” Hot topics. One hot debate these days is whether it is OK to open up an Instagram account for your baby. Will the babies of today have any control over how they tell their stories as they grow up? Dog life. We’ve recently heard about a dog having a book out. This, in a way, reminds us of Marcus Tullius Cicero’s quote, “Times are bad. Children no longer obey their parents, and everyone is writing a book.” The awesomeness chart. Here’s a great idea heard from a guy: see yourself on an “awesome chart”. The mantra is: “the older I get, the more awesome I become.”
Pearls for the Boys?
I
n modern culture, pearls have been strongly associated with women’s style. However, recently, more and more designers and stylists have offered pearls as part of their
menswear collections. One of the best examples is the Casablanca autumn-winter 2020 collection, which featured many cool looks that included pearls. Celebrities are also doing it: Harry Styles, Lars Eidinger and ASAP Rocky place pearls around their necks more and more often. Kanye West even around his shoulders. Back in the day, however, pearls were mostly worn by men and were a strong sign of power and wealth. Once, monarchs from all over the world adorned themselves
Maharajah Bhupinder Singh of Patiala (1891 - 1938) in a photograph from 1911.
with these “precious stones” of the seas. Since antiquity, pearls have fascinated people from all cultures as a rare natural treasure surrounded by all kinds of myths. What do you make of this new trend? Pearls photo: Attire Club
Notice the pearls around his neck. Picture from the National Portrait Gallery, London
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C I N E M A
C U LT U R E
1
THE AC Autumn MOVIES LIST What to watch this autumn: from old classics you might have seen to new films you’ll enjoy!
The Others (2001) The Sacrifice (1986) Capricorn One (1978) The Enigma of Kaspar Hauser (1974) Metropolis (1927) Inferno (2016) La Vie en Rose (2007) The Concert (2009) The Double Life of Véronique (1991) The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari (1920) The Invisible Man (1933) Blackboard Jungle (1955) Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961) Mascots (2016) The Purple Rose of Cairo (1985) 102 | InCompanytAttirehClub
2 The Da Vinci Code Revisited almost 15 Years Later
T
Text: Attire Club
he Da Vinci Code, written by Dan Brown, was published
stations in Europe, the teaser for the movie, consisting of the
in 2003 and soon became the most controversial book
“So Dark the Con of Man” moment ran almost every 3 or 4 min-
of the early 21st century. In it, the main characters,
utes. In France, people could go on guided tours of the Louvre
Robert Langdon and Sophie Neveu investigate a murder in the
branded as Da Vinci Code tours, narrated by Jean Reno, who
Louvre and, in doing so, they follow a set of clues to unravel a
appeared in the movie as Captain Bezu Fache.
mystery, taking them to London and then to Rosslyn Chapel. It is estimated that 81 million copies of the book have been
The Da Vinci Code may not have introduced singlehandedly
published, making it one of the most popular books of all time.
symbolic thinking into the 21st century, but it definitely was a part of it. In 2006, Julian Assange’s WikiLeaks was found-
In 2006, a 2-hour and 29 minutes (54 in the extended cut) film
ed, which would also become a powerful instrument through
adaptation starring Tom Hanks and Audrey Tatou was made,
which conspiracy theories and the search for the hidden would
which contributed even more to the hype and controversy
be introduced to the public.
brought on by the story’s high point, namely that Christ and Mary Magdalene had a child and that their bloodline is still
Back in its day, the film was extremely popular due to the heavy
present in the world today.
marketing machine that pushed it and was met with hatred by some and with high expectations by others. Critics were not
The film, directed by Ron Howard, was a big success at the
very enthusiastic about it, and people who left their comments
box office, in most part due to its provocative nature and due
online were also not extremely captivated by it. Many consid-
to the millions of dollars poured in its promotion.
ered it to be a little bit too “vanilla”. The way in which the film was received says a lot about our society and the paradigm
At a cinematic analysis, it can be said that the Da Vinci Code is
in which we live. People were discontent because the movie
a decent movie and deserves many
did not feature enough drama or
a, but, at the same time, it is lack-
enough violence. If you think about
ing here and there, such as in the
it, the whole premise and idea of
acting department. Its power, how-
the movie was a very tense one, so
ever, lies not so much in the contro-
the fact that we are desensitized
versy it caused at the time - even
to these premises and that a mov-
though this is how it seemed back
ie centered on the entire sang real
when it was launched - but in the
theme leaves many yawning is an
fact that it is responsible for intro-
indicator of how people perceive
ducing the new symbolic thinking
the world. The way The Da Vinci
in the world.
Code was received goes to show
If you think about it, the Da Vinci
how much - or, better said, how
Code was the start of the new wave
little people are connected to their
of symbolism, conspiracy theories
past, to their beliefs and to their
and other ways of symbolic thinking. It was an unparalleled
collective and individual histories. At the same time, the film,
phenomenon which did not ‘just happen’. Looking back, one
besides introducing the new symbolic thinking, also ushered
can clearly tell that the success of the Da Vinci Code and the
in what is now a growing trend, namely the focus on old Eu-
introducing of new a new symbolic thinking was a coordinat-
ropean traditions and values, which are currently apparently
ed effort. The movie (and book) were everywhere and talked
highly suppressed by the powers at be.
about all around the world. Extremely many household names were involved in the making of the movie and in promoting it.
In short, The Da Vinci Code is a strong point of reference not
The film was supported by big entities such as the Louvre mu-
just in the history of cinema, but in the history of global culture,
seum, and we can also see two nice shots of the Ritz as well as
as it paved the way of what would become the mainstream
car logos. Important entities also participated in the making of
paradigm of the years to come. Today, people talk with ease
the film: for example, the scenes which take place at Rosslyn
about secret organizations, plans made in the shadows and
Chapel were shot at the actual site. In terms of promotion and
even concepts such as the Flat Earth theory. All of these are
post-film expansion, many people may remember how strong-
indicators of the fact that people have become accustomed to
ly the film was popularized. Watch German TV channels such
the notion that, more often than not, things are not necessarily
as RTL - which was at the time one of the most popular TV
what they seem at a first glance.
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3 5 Must-See Fashion Documentaries
F
Text: Attire Club
ashion
Iris
and
documentaries
In 2014, Iris Apfel be-
are two worlds
came the subject of a
that are strongly in-
documentary
tertwined.
Fashion
ed by Albert Maysles,
documentaries
in which he explored
uses to
communicate
direct-
its
the mind of the iconic
stories and documen-
style icon. This doc-
tarians
always
umentary is all about
happy to step in in the
creativity and the abil-
fascinating world of
ity to influence the
fashion.
world while maintain-
are
ing a low key. There are many documentaries about fashion that one can watch, so we have made a selection of tiThe Secret World of Haute Couture
tles that can compose a pertinent must-see list.
This 2007 film is a more obscure reference, but it is nevertheless one Notebook on Cities and Clothes
of the most fascinating fashion docu-
The 1989 documentary “Notebook on Cities
mentaries ever. Focusing on the clients
and Clothes” explores the creative process and
of haute couture clothes, this movie is
struggles of Japanese designer Yohji Yamamo-
an engaging incursion into a secret
to. In this film, directed by Wim Wenders, the
world that will never be open to sharing
fashion designer discusses cities, identity and
itself with the world.
the cinema in the digital age. Bonus: We Are Fashion Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel
While not a feature film, our own
“Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel” is
web documentary “We Are Fashion”
most likely one of the best documentaries
launched in 2014 is an insight into
related to fashion to have ever been made.
the views of fashion bloggers from
Presenting the personality of the woman
all continents of the world.
who transformed fashion from what it was
With over 2 million fashion
in the 1930 to what it is today, the film is not
blogs in the world, Attire
only a lesson in history, but also a touching
Club was interested in ex-
story.
ploring who these people are and what their views of fashion and style are.
Mademoiselle C When Carine Roitfeld of French Vogue decid-
Documentaries,
ed to create her own magazine, she might not
rently on the decline as a
while
cur-
have known how hard it can be to launch your
genre, are a great way to learn
own media venture. “Mademoiselle C” is a great film
about the world on the way in
documenting the launch of the very first CR fashion
which people want to present
book. While the movie is lacking a bit in the technical
themselves or a particular concept. Documen-
department, it is a very compelling and captivating
tary films are a great tool, as they are always
story.
a dynamic way to discover worlds beyond your own.
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“Identity” … of a person, of a thing, of a place. “Identity”. The word itself gives me shivers. It rings of calm, comfort, contentedness. What is it, identity? To know where you belong? To know your self worth? To know who you are? How do you recognise identity? We are creating an image of ourselves, We are attempting to resemble this image… Is that what we call identity? The accord between the image we have created of ourselves and … ourselves? Just who is that, “ourselves”? - From the opening monologue from “Notebook on Cities and Clothes” attireclub.org |
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A C
W O R L D
From the Attire Club STYLE PORTFOLIO Archive
The Academician Bow Tie
The first Attire Club Style Portfolio was launched on 2/22/2014 and was titled “Fashion Proposition”. Our fashion experiment consisted of twelve original bow ties, each with it’s own personality, just like the twelve months of the year, the twelve sun signs or even the twelve cranial nerves. The goal of this “fine fashion” collection, as we like to call it, was to celebrate diversity, embrace one another and accept ourselves for who we are. Photo and bow tie: Attire Club Another bow tie from the collection was the Magician
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SUBSCRIPTION
Subscribe to InCompany by Attire Club to make sure you receive your beautiful print copy of each edition. With a focus on quality and sophistication, InCompany by Attire Club magazine explores the fashion world in an original and creative manner. Featuring interviews with creative talents, style guides, stunning photography and carefully curated products and travel recommendations, the goal of the magazine is to present more than the typical fashion publication. Capturing a compelling image of the fashion world, the magazine covers both the independent and mainstream areas of fashion and from the very ethnic and old-school to the latest hightech innovations. Go to levolny.mozello.com to buy the subscription for just â‚Ź90 (about $102) or just scan the QR code on the left.
QR Code Glossary Discover the websites featured in this issue!
Franรงois Echalier u instagram.com/mrcostumes Page 18
Aston Martin u astonmartin.com Page 62
ROCAMBOLESCO u instagram.com /rocambolesco_fashion Page 41
Dimoral u di-moral.com Page 81
Liev Arts u lievarts.com Pages 51, 73, 90
TamTam Festival u tamtamfestival.ro Page 94
Mark St. James u marquisoffashion.com Page 53
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Always Addressing Power Dressing
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See you online! attireclub.org facebook.com/attireclub twitter.com/attireclub pinterest.com/attireclub instagram.com/attireclub attireclub.tumblr.com vk.com/attireclub 110 | InCompanytAttirehClub
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Ballet Royal de la Nuit. Louis XIV en Appollon The Royal Night Ballet. Louis XIV as Apollo Anonymous author
IChAC