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A look made entirely from zippers by el_in_es. Model: Phutthira Amornhirunphak Photo: Attire Club
Editorial: What Rules Your Heart?
C
hristmas, birthdays and other festive occasion often involve the concept of offering a present to someone in one way or another. Gifts are laid out under the Christmas tree, as a symbol of the recognition of one’s good deeds, or they offered directly as a sign of personal appreciation or encouragement. Sometimes, gifts are unexpected, and at other times they are something the receiver has really wished for. The things we want to receive are a very interesting part of our daily life and consciousness. They are usually things that are more or less out of reach for us (if they were completely available, we would immediately get them ourselves) and they indicate a need we have. At a first level, these needs may often seem superficial: why would you want a bag, a perfume, clothes, shoes, gadgets and so on? But, the fact of the matter is that these things have the role of making us feel a certain way, they are a status symbol, which can have gains in the long run and they often give us confidence. Sometimes their purpose is solely to fulfill an aesthetic need, other times, they reflect our values and our worldview. The things we want to have act thus as an indicator of our needs and of where we find ourselves in our lives. And that is a powerful thing. In this sense, may we hope that this holidays season will bring with itself not only material joy, but also a time of appreciating what we have and a moment of introspection with the purpose of bettering ourselves in the years to come. The Attire Club Team
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InCompanyt AttirehClub “To good men! May we know them, May we raise them, May we be them!�
Released by FRAQUOH AND FRANCHOMME Chief Executive Officer Dan Dimitriu Creative Director Iosif Trif Write letters to the editor iosif.trif@attireclub.org Visit our website attireclub.org Contact & advertising office@attireclub.org Address Based in Abu Dhabi, UAE & Vienna, Austria Telephone 0097 150 12 801 73 Follow us Facebook: facebook.com/attireclub
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Tumblr: attireclub.tumblr.com
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“Smythson blue, I like you.” Photo: Attire Club
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Contents
Winter 2020-21
EDITORIAL
What Rules Your Heart Understanding yourself. u3 AC ARCHIVE RCMBLSC
A blast from the near past. u 10 COLOR STORIES Blue Again Don‘t feel blue. u 12 EVENTS Chopard and the 2020 Mille Miglia Speeding up. u 14 IN THEIR OWN WORDS Dean Pelić Style from Croatia. u 18 THE ATTIRE CLUB 2020 CHRISTMAS BOOK The Wishlist and More! Poems, clothes and inspiration. u 24 METAFASHION Going Out, Getting In: Clubbing Insights in the colorful world of clubbing. u 34 ATTIRE CLUB LIBRARY Must-Read Articles from Our Website In case you missed it... u 38
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AC TRAVEL ARCHIVE Evening in St. Moritz Memories from the Engadine. u 39 FASHION WORLD The New Runways A look at the spring-summer 2021 womenswear shows. u 40 WATCH WATCHING Wonders on the Wrist: The Watches of Stefan Kudoke Beauty on every level. u 44 STYLE GUIDE 7 Reasons to Wear Suspenders Elevate your style! u 48 TRAVEL ALPHABET T for Transylvania More than just a myth. u 50 IN THEIR OWN WORDS Catching Up with Juan-Carlos Gordillo Designing fashion to last. u 54 CURRENT OBSESSIONS Eternal Fabergé Elegance Exquisite beauty. u 56 FASHION HISTORY A Brief Visual History of Santa Claus North Pole outfits. u 58 TRENDS The Small Attire Club Trend Book What‘s next? u 64 attireclub.org |
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HAPPY NEW YEAR A Fresh Start Celebrating a new beginning. u 70 FASHION AND TECHNOLOGY What is the Future of E-Commerce? Will we all buy exclusively online? u 75 FASHION WORLD Popov Leather Belts: The AC Review Our hands-on opinions. u 77 The ATTIRE CLUB MOOD DIARY Renaissance Era Costumes Colors, patterns and more. u 78 STORIES FROM OUR WEB Instagram Snapshots Are you following the AC? u 93 SECRETS OF FASHION Masks as Veils: Discussions on the Symbol of Purity and Identity Social utility. u 96 CINEMA CULTURE Movies for the Cold Season Films for the wintertime. u 100
SPWC The 2021 edition of the Snow Polo World Cup is cancelled. u 104 QR CODE GLOSSARY Discover More! Use your phone or tablet to scan the QR codes leading to the websites of the brands and people from this issue.
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u 106
Read the contents with a song!
AC WORLD
InCompanytAttirehClub
The Smart Magazine Attire Club is offering a complete men’s style, fashion and lifestyle experience, centered around the AC website. To discover our universe and over 1000 articles that will offer you the tools to develop your style, as well as fashion inspiration and cultural insights and to interact with us and be part of our community, visit us online.
attireclub.org +See our QR Code Glossary at the end of the magazine
AC
A R C H I V E
From the Attire Club Archive
RCMBLSC
ROCAMBOLESCO is a new fashion initiative which focuses on offering a collection of cool, modern clothes for the urban man. With sharp cuts and a forward-leaning vision, ROCAMBOLESCO (abbreviated RCMBLSC) is now in the launching stage.
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Photo: Attire Club Model: Alexandru Popovici
From the Online Edition
Attire Club is the ultimate resource for complete style guides, fashion inspiration and cultural insights that provide you with the tools you need for a continuous style development. Geared towards the sharp modern man, Attire Club offers practical “you can do it, here’s how” articles that will make you not only look better, but also feel better and more confident. With a groundbreaking new concept, AC is the essential online publication that brings out the best in who you are.
C O LO R
S TO R I E S
It is said that blue has positive effects on the mind and the body. As the color of the spirit, it evokes rest and is associated with freedom, imagination, intuition, expansiveness, inspiration, and sensitivity. Blue also represents wisdom, depth, trust, loyalty, sincerity, confidence, stability, faith, heaven, and intelligence. Photo: Attire Club
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From AC’s Social Media
Attire Club is 360 degrees experience and our readers can stay updated with us on every major social media platform, where we share articles, photos and more!
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CHOPARD AND THE 2020 1000 MIGLIA
E V E NT S
Mille Miglia 2020 Race Edition
Ben Dahlhaus wearing the Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Chrono 1000 Miglia 2020 Photo: © Adam Fussell
F
or the 32nd time in a row, Chopard was the main part-
Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard is also known for collect-
ner and the official timekeeper of the amazing 1000 Mi-
ing and driving cars, even at certain motorsports events.
glia rally. The event is usually organized in the month
of May and is regarded as being “the world’s most beautiful”.
The story of 1000 Miglia goes back to 1927, when it was start-
This year, however, it took place in mid-autumn, because of
ed by two aristocrats. It was a 1618 km route (1000 Roman
the harsh public health regulations. Thus, it was organized be-
miles, hence its name) and was a speed race that started and
tween 22 and 25 October.
ended in the Northern Italian town of Brescia after passing through Rome. The original formula was interrupted in 1957
400 crews set out to conquer the 1618 km / 1000 miles of the
and was re-launched several years later in 1977 as an endur-
course under the watchful gaze of a friend of the brand, Jacky
ance race for cars built only between 1927 and 1957. The
Ickx, who presided over the festivities organized by Chopard.
route has also changed slightly along the years, but it has kept
Ickx is a Belgian former racing driver, who won the 24 Hours of
its length 0f 1000 miles and its atmosphere, as the cars pass
Le Mans six times and achieved eight wins and 25 podium fin-
through some of Italy’s most beautiful landscapes and towns.
ishes in Formula One. He also won the Can-Am Championship in 1979 and the 1983 Paris–Dakar Rally. The evening before
In accordance with its annual custom, Chopard also intro-
the start of the race, during an intimate dinner at La Sosta in
duced a new series of watches that marked the start of the
Brescia, “Mister Le Mans” presented the new timepieces from
race, commemorating this new edition of the 1000 Miglia.
Chopard’s Mille Miglia Collection created by the in-house arti-
The Mille Miglia 2020 Race Edition chronograph is available
sans in homage to the race.
in a 250-piece limited edition and features a 42 mm-diameter case in bead-blasted DLC stainless steel and ethical rose gold
Chopard has been tied to the endurance race since 1988 and
with black leather strap and dial; and in 1000 pieces entirely in
is the manifestation of the close collaboration born from the
bead-blasted DLC stainless steel, each powered by a chronom-
Scheufele’s family passion for classic cars. Karl-Friedrich
eter-certified mechanical movement with automatic winding.
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Photo: Š Adam Fussell
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The collection also includes two other stainless steel timepiec-
harnessing the finest expertise and innovation cultivated by
es attired in a very contemporary shade of blue with the Mille
the Chopard workshops. Its cushion-shaped case is made of
Miglia GTS Azzurro Power Control (a 500-piece edition with a
bead-blasted DLC titanium and houses the Chopard 04.03-M
43 mm diameter) and the Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Chrono (a
tourbillon movement.
750-piece edition with a 44 mm diameter), also equipped with chronometer-certified mechanical movements with automatic
Watches are all about emotion, capturing and conveying a
winding.
lifestyle and a world view. Thus, it is awe-inspiring to actually have hands-on manifestations of their values through events
20-piece edition, the Mille Miglia Lab One, a concept watch
Photo: Š Adam Fussell
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such as the 1000 Miglia race. The Mille Miglia Lab One
Finally, Chopard presented a tourbillon chronometer in a
Ben Dahlhaus wearing the Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Chrono before the start of the race Photo: Š Adam Fussell
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I N
T H E I R
O W N
W O R D S
THE EVERYTHING MAN:
Dean Pelić
Modeling, writing a book, hosting a TV show, vlogging, acting… Dean Pelić has done it all. Currently, the Croatian native is one of the most popular people in his region and has a strong online following. We wanted to learn more about him and what makes him tick and he was very kind to offer an exclusive interview to InCompany by Attire Club. What can you tell us about your background? How were you
modeling is not as easy as it looks like, and it is far different
as a young boy?
than how it looks from the outside. It’s a hard work but also an
I really had a great childhood. Wouldn’t change a thing. Being
enjoyable one, if you love what you do. All the travels, all the
outside the whole day, playing with my friends from morning
people that you meet. It’s a great opportunity.
till evening… Definitely wouldn’t change a bit. As a kid I had lots of dreams, living in my imaginary world… I guess, not much
Which are your favorite fashion brands and why?
different than I am now. I guess some things never change.
I would be lying if I say that I have a favorite brand that I buy
Still have a lot of dreams, lots of them came true, still living in
like everything from. I have a lots of favorite brands lol as I
my imaginary world, in my own bubble, and liking it very much.
wear lots of different styles and various pieces. I like to mix
You have worked in very many fields; from journalism to acting
it a bit. So sometimes you see me wearing Boda Skins jacket
and modeling: which of these roles do you identify with most?
and with simple black t-shirt, Diesel jeans and Armani high-top
I always wanted to work on TV as a TV host and that goal I
trainers. The other day I will be in a camel coat paired with a
made true. I always wanted to write books, and that’s what
Sandro Paris hoodie, wearing Tom Ford glasses, Pepe jeans
I am currently doing. I published two books, one quickly be-
with Air Force One. And the next day I’ll be wearing a Tom Ford
came a bestseller, and the second one just came out a little
suit. It really depends on the mood. There are so many brands
more than a month ago. Right now, I am preparing my first
I like, and whenever I travel, I try to find some unique brands
book to come out in English, which is really something I am
from that country and get something I like. When it comes to
looking forward to. And of course, I also love being a model,
fashion, I like to play with it, but the most important thing is
it is something I started a long time ago, and I still love it as
that I feel good wearing it.
much as the first day. I enjoy being all of that: TV host, model, writer… Since I was a kid, I believed that you can be whatever
What can you tell us about your book?
you want to be, and to this day I believe in that.
What can I tell you about my book? Well, it came after my weekly column, people seemed to really like it, and so it was a
Do you have someone you look up to?
natural step to put some of my favorite columns into a book.
Hm, not really. I never really had a role model. I don’t know
And, to expand upon the key themes, the book is all about re-
why. I never looked upon anyone and said “I want to do that”.
lationships, love and my view on those subjects. It is full of
Or maybe I did, but I always wanted to do it my way, anyway.
advice, and kinda going back to what love used to be. I’m very old-school when it comes to love and relationships, and even
What did you learn from working as a model?
though I thought that would be weird to people, they seem to
Uh, lots of things. I guess working as a model really helped
like my point of view on these things. So, yeah, I cannot wait
with my self-confidence which when I started wasn’t really
for this English edition to come out really, really soon.
that great. So slowly, as I was growing up working as a model, my self-confidence grew along, too. I definitely learned that
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Who are your readers?
to online shopping. But am too lazy to do that too [laughs].
Who are my readers? They are mostly women, however, some
There are just so many things, and it takes hours. I think I
men also have read my book. In general, they are people who
need a personal assistant [laughs]. Otherwise, I’m obsessed
want to see that there are other people thinking the same
with gadgets. I haven’t told you that. But I love a gadget. These
things as them, who look at love and relationships from a dif-
are the only “modern” things I actually am obsessed with. So I
ferent viewpoint. They often want to know they aren’t alone in
am eyeing new iPhone and iPad and a new Playstation. I can’t
dealing with some of this stuff.
get enough of these things. With everything else, I’m quite old-school, love history, historical places, historical movies
You also have a very active YouTube channel. What do you
and documentaries, books… but when it comes to gadgets, I
vlog about?
cannot help myself lol And travel, yeah that’s like my always
I do, although I don’t spend nearly as much time as I should
– obsession. Always looking for new places to go, booking
on my Youtube channel. I vlog about the same things as I talk
tickets even though I know that eventually I will have to can-
about in my book, but also travel, which is my biggest passion.
cel it because of all the
restrictions… I actually booked
some flight a few days You are also very popular on social media - what is your re-
ago but had to cancel
lation to it?
because of the situ-
Yeah, I guess that came naturally. Wasn’t expecting this much
ation, so I just keep
following across the social channels, IG, FB, YT etc. It takes
collecting vouchers to
work as I also collaborate with brands, but I don’t want my IG
use later when times
to look like some kind of webshop. It still is and always will
get better. What can
be my personal channel that I use to communicate with my
I tell you, it’s bigger
fans, where they can follow my journey, what excites me, what
than me, can’t help
saddens me and all sorts of stuff that make me, me. My fans
it, I just feel so good
follow me for who I am, and I really appreciate that.
when I book the tickets somewhere.
What are your plans for the next years?
It’s the best thing
Can we really plan anything nowdays? I think days of planning
ever.
ahead are gone. Don’t leave for tomorrow what you can do today because tomorrow is uncertain. You cannot plan anything in advance. You go day by day, and that is the best way to go. So definitely less plans, more actions right now. Because I think it’s obvious to us now that you cannot rely on or plan something for the next month let alone next year. So all we have is now. And that is great, actually. Do you have any New Year resolutions? No, I’m not that type of person that would like quit or begin doing something from 1.1 or Monday or whatever. If you wanna do something, do it immediately, do it right away, don’t wait for something or someone to change yourself. Everything else is just procrastinating and obvious not meant to be, or you don’t want it bad enough since you wait for something so you can change. That’s not how it works. What are you currently obsessed with, fashion- and otherwise? Fashion-wise, not much. I am thinking about how I need some new clothes as I rarely buy
Discover Dean’s web-
new stuff. I get a lot clothes from brands and stuff, but I rarely
site at
shop by myself. And the thing is, I don’t like shopping. Maybe
deanpelic.com
that’s because, as a model, I used to try on clothes so much on all of the shootings, shows and stuff that now when I go to the store and have to try clothes, I don’t want to. So, I stick
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z Christmas
AttirehClub FASHION 2020 Christmas Book
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M E TA FA S H I O N
“I will honor Christmas in my heart, and try to keep it all the year.” - Charles Dickens attireclub.org |
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Night of the Sun It was around midnight That it started to snow And oh, it was clear That the drifts would grow In the garden Some elves ran a’quick They wanted to make sure Nobody saw their tracks The deer were excited That the days would grow long Since, after Christmas The light would be strong 26 | InCompanytAttirehClub
How much for the swan in the window?
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Read this article with a song!
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The Little Boy As the fire goes out And the world is asleep A little boy’s still up Counting the sheep He listens around To any crack or wind Which may indicate That someone has pinned A few socks on his shelves Which may be filled With the work of some Really busy elves attireclub.org |
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High Time Your clothes are hanging properly on a rack And in the air is a scent coming from a cloves sack You have dreams of diamonds and gold And wish to play in the fluffy snow. When the pancakes are done And the cake has been eaten We’ll all take a walk Down what has been written 30 | InCompanytAttirehClub
THE GIFT BAG 3D photo by ArtPix, custom orders available at artpix3d.com
A watch by Atto Verticale
Perrier-JouĂŤt
A vest by Guild
The new Rolls-Royce Ghost Extended
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Wishes of Comfort and Gold Your pens are tired From having written so much... Cards, letters and notes For the young and the old. Now it’s high time To finally see What has been hiding under the tree Is it a duffle or is it a watch? Is it a snowflake or maybe a clutch? The constellation above May be enough... attireclub.org |
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M E TA FA S H I O N
CLUBBING
GOING OUT, GETTING IN Having fun in clubs is a complex matter. While it may seem skin-deep to some, looking at the unconscious complexities that define the clubbing culture will make one understand that all our actions are more complicated than we’d expect. 34 | InCompanytAttirehClub
Antoine de Saint-Exupéry
umbrella term; it does not refer only to sex-related things, but to overall desirability. In a classic environment, people are driven by mating and creating an offspring. In this sense, men and women are expected to bring different things to the table. Women are expected to bring fertility to the table; hence women with fertility markers are found attractive, and men are supposed to bring resources to the table, with which they will support the child. This may sound rudimentary and outdated, but this is how people have evolved and how most people are programmed due to natural selection which has taken place over the course of millions of years. Now, modern society may
P
be different, but our modern times are but a split second in the timeline of human evolution, so it is natural that we still
Special Effects eople have always had dancing parties: from the old dances around the fire to more modern garden parties to the contemporary music-blasting clubs, the need to get together with others in a dynamic atmosphere has always been there. But more recently, clubs, formerly
known as discos, have taken a very strong turn as they have become a culture in their own right. Day in and day out, people
base our actions on these instincts. And, of course, there is nothing wrong with that. Returning to the idea of exchanging sex for resources, it can be said that people will often try to find the best partner they can. Of course, a relationship cannot be sustained on a cold exchange only, which is why people need more than that if they want to have a good and healthy life together. Furthermore, what needs to be said is that the aforementioned markers are not singular markers. For example, money is not the only trait that indicates a guy’s sexual
go clubbing, which involves dancing, drinking and having fun.
market value, in a way; it is the end-marker. Intelligence, for
The goal of clubbing is of course not only to have fun but to
erful and able to provide for his family.
meet people for dates, sex and other… things. The cultural foundations of these fun worlds are quite intricate, but also very interesting to look at. In some ways, what is most interesting about them from an anthropological point of view is that the reasons and structures of clubs are something we all know on a more or less conscious level. So, here is a break-
example, indicates that he may, in the long run, become pow-
Wastelands
R
eturning to clubs, we will find that these are a “very basic” display of these fundamental things, with no real subtlety or philosophical layers. Clubs are a place of
conspicuous consumption, where to purpose is to trick in a
down of club culture and of why people go to nightclubs.
way others to find you more attractive than you actually are.
These days, there are clubs made for every taste, kink or pref-
one inebriated will distract from essential questions such as
erence. However, most clubs are mainstream clubs, which are centered on the idea of “bottle service”. Bottle service basically means that someone can rent a table for a night and will be served with an entire bottle (or more, of course) of alcohol, which can get really expensive. The idea here is that you don’t order a drink, but the entire bottle and this can cost from $500 to $5000 or even more. These bottles are often brought to the table by attractive waitresses and sometimes come with sparkles or other “special effects”. This is, of course, a way for the buyer to showcase how much money he has. Spending lots of money on superficial, non-essential things such as champagne is meant to be an indicator that one has a lot of money, thus a lot of power and hence a high sexual market value. Moreover, the fact that champagne can make such a show by being popped is another way of drawing attention towards
Throwing tons of cash on whiskey bottles and getting every“where did he get the money?” or “why is he this wasteful?” and will simply activate and appeal to our lizard brain, which, because of years of evolution, will respond positively to the stimuli offered by a lavish display of money and power. And this is precisely what avid clubbers want. Many people who party a lot often seek to “lose themselves”, which explains why the music in a club is so loud and why there is this entire dizzying atmosphere happening. And, while there is nothing wrong with disconnecting from one’s daily issues and stress, the constant process of trying to break away from oneself is an indicator of what is going on in someone’s life and how they relate to themselves. It can be argued that this type of collective effervescence
your disposable money.
(“collective effervescence” is a sociological concept coined by
To understand this better, a clearer explanation of the idea
somewhat-dysfunctional people normalize their dysfunction
of “sexual market value” can be made. In short and broadly speaking, sexual market value is the idea that people are, due or because of specific traits, more or less desirable. This is the anthropological explanation of what is commonly referred to as “she/he’s a 10, 9, 8, etc. Sexual market value is a wide
Émile Durkheim) is (not according to Durkheim) a way in which by exposing themselves to many examples of other similar people. In a way, the thought process is “if everyone is doing it, then it must be normal”. And here is where the mental, language-based trick lies. We often use the word “normal” to describe something common, but “common” is not necessarily
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“normal”, with the sense of proper or highly-functional. These days, for example, from an anthropological point of view, the abnormal is very common, as modern science and medicine allow for people with maladaptive genetic deviations to coexist with everyone else. In fact, according to some scientists, the maladaptive people have become a majority in the world, which is why everything seems so wrong to so many these days. But that’s a topic for another time. Back to clubs, it needs to be said that showcasing status through waste is not a new thing and that there is nothing wrong with collective effervescence - we all like to come together and sing or cheer. What can also be said is that clubs are not only for meeting people for sex or relationships, but they are also used for people from various business sectors to track down clients. People want to see who can afford to spend lots of money and, in some cultures, partying together is considered a trust-building experience, which may make a partnership more lucrative and streamlined. For some, clubbing is an achievement. It may sound odd, but for many people, being able to be seen, even if only as a part of an environment based around sexual selection and people with high sexual market value is an achievement. Some people feel that by being in such an environment, their SMV is heightened. Clubs are, in some ways, the physical manifestation of a hip-hop song. Manifesting culture is something we do all the time; we strive to act as our (sometimes fictional) role models, we put in practice the songs we sing, the poems we read and so on. There are a million examples of this; for one, people used to sing about going to battle before going to battle. Surely, this was in a way the opposite of a club; you would perform the song in order to get used to the idea of the cruelty that was about to happen and to cope with it in one way or another. Cultural Norms Base on Natural Instincts
C
oming back to clubs, it can be noticed that they have a lot to do with spending - that is clear. However, according to sociologist Ashley Mears, this kind of spending
would not be able to take place without a certain entourage. For example, she explains that there is a lot of tokenism that is happening in a club. For example, there are a lot of model-type women around and dancing on tables and, even if for some of the men there, they are not their type, they still express their admiration for them, as these women have been validated by the adverting and modeling industries as being attractive. Spending lots of money without a lot of outside signaling “would be considered meaningless”, as Mears said on an episode of the Modern Wisdom podcast where she was invited. “Nobody would see the expense of the bottle as being worth it, if the crowd would not be deemed high-status enough as worthy to impress, which fashion models are” Mears explains. It is interesting how clubs are one of the very few spots in today’s world where things are very traditional. Men are the
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“Nobody would see the expense of the bottle as being worth it, if the crowd would not be deemed high-status enough as worthy to impress” - Ashley Mears big spenders, women are brought mostly for décor and there are barely any big “sugar mamas” around. It is a very lucrative industry and highly private, so maybe this is why it is like that. The complex relations between men and women are very interesting in the clubbing world and involve a lot of mental twists and turns. For example, these places could not function without young, attractive women and yet, as individuals, they are considered worthless airheads. Check Yourself Before You Wreck Yourself
W
ith clubs, one of the most trialing things is who gets in and who gets left out. There is often a bouncer at the door who gets to decide who enters the party
and who is turned away. Generally speaking, young, attractive women are left through and guys who display marks of wealth, but usually, if there is a group of men without women, they get turned away too, unless the bouncer has enough reason to believe that they will spend a lot of money on buying women drinks. It’s like getting through the Gates of Heaven. In Berlin, there is a club called Berghain, which is considered to be the most exclusive club in the world. There is a famous guy called Sven at the entrance who blocks people for no apparent reason, and people can’t seem to figure him out. While this could not be checked, it is most likely that the Berghain bouncer rejects “perfect” people from time to time simply to create stories and an atmosphere of mystique and high preciousness. It may be a marketing strategy based on making people think “that crowd must be so high-status if even Miss Venezuela was turned around at the door.” This makes those who get to come in feel even more special and more willing to drop money. It’s a good business model, that’s for sure. Marketing or not, whatever Berghain does, works. Currently, there are multiple apps that help people crack the code to get into Berghain; there are videos online about how to get in, which draw lots of views. From a few accounts, it seems that Berghain is so private because it also has an apocalypse-type-sex angle, which goes back to the aforementioned idea of people who want to lose themselves - this German club may very well be the paramount of self-annihilation and self-destruction, or at least, the symbol for it. Speaking of the admission process in a nightclub, what should be added is that there is a whole economy going on as to who gets in. This economy is based on a proportion between “quantity” and “quality” and seeks to maximize the “status” of
the group. Promoters are often paid on the quality of quantity. It is a process that is somewhat cruel. In brief, it works similarly to a Monopoly game, where three houses equal a hotel. Pretty much in the same way, in a club; let’s say three 6s equal two 9s. Talk about mathematics! Taking Yourself Out
T
he bottom line when it comes to clubs is that club culture is really an exchange-based culture. Girls may feel good
about being friends with the promoters and taken out, and people may feel excited about getting a free drink or a gift bag, but, at the end of the day, there is no such thing as a free meal. And what is strange in a way about club culture is that it is such a cold culture, where people know this - it’s not a case of Marxist false consciousness, it simply is a trade environment where people with little skill (and often little money) try to trade up sexually and to enhance their dating value. Sometimes, as it happens, girls are offered accommodation in apartments (sometimes even in big cities, where rents can be extremely high) in exchange for partying at night or dancing at a club. Interestingly enough, by the time they are 30, what many young girls see as a dream turns into a nightmare. The explanation cannot be completely verified, but it has most likely to do again with the sexual factor, as, around 30, women’s fertility starts to rapidly decline. For a young woman, being able to play around and select men who are interested in her because of her fertility may bring her a high, but once she hits a certain age, she instinctively knows that she either locks up a man quickly or that she is very likely toast. Nightlife is, at the end of the day, or, better said, at the end of the night, constructed in the minds of the people who participate. Seeing a club during another time, one won’t help but notice that it is not as big, not as glamorous and not as rich. It is almost a figment. Clubbing is also fascinating because it is really destructive and yet, that is something people either seek or something they don’t seem to mind. But, in the past, people were willing to go to war only not to be rejected (and, again, because they wanted to self-destroy), so crushing your system on a regular basis doesn’t seem as bad. Clubbing and night life as a whole will most likely change drastically over the coming years. However, the underlining basis on which these are built will continue to be there as long as people will remain fundamentally the same.
Sexual Politics In October 2020, German designer Phillip Plein, who is known as being one of wealthiest people in Switzerland, although that is highly debatable, posted on his IG a picture of his girlfriend in a very sexed-up pose, accompanied by the following caption (no corrections were made, only emojis removed): “1 year 4 month and we still enjoy every day like we met just yesterday.... she makes me eat vegan food nearly every day,she is never not happy, we never had a fight or a serious argument we could not laugh about she cooks, she cleans the house, she bakes bread and she brings me food to the office, she takes online German classes, she reads more books than anybody I ever met before, she never complained of me coming home late from work, she does not like any real leather products, she made me design and produce VEGAN trainers, she separates the waste at home, she does not like to drive in cars which are not electric, she tries to safe every animals life on this planet (even the mosquitoes in our room) she never asked for anything than to be happy, she don’t care about materialistic Bullshit, she does not like shopping at all, she wants to make this planet become a better place ......... love you”. This is a very good example of a basic sexual market value exchange. She displays over-the-top sexual fertility markers and sexed-up features, which have most likely been cosmetically enhanced and checks all the current-year conventionality boxes. This way, Plein’s “lizard” brain is (tricked into being) assured that the potential offspring he may have with her will be healthy (even though, who knows what lies beneath the silicone?) and that they will grow up safely and thus will have a high probability of survival. Basically women who check all the conventions du jour signal that they won’t shake the boat in society and will be submissive to any request made by elders with the condition that her children grow up safely. It’s interesting though how Plein’s brand is a fashion brand - and a very successful one, don’t get us wrong, built around a clubbing aesthetic (some like it and others consider it a “tacky joke”). Eugene Rabkin summarized his brand in a High Snobiety article saying “His approach to design, if one may call it that, is ‘the more bling the better.’ Sparkles on everything, giant Swarovski crystal skulls, Playboy bunnies; his universe is as tacky as it gets.” Even though his entire public image is so club-centric, he really appreciates that his gf is not materialistic and that she doesn’t like shopping (we can’t verify the truth of that). That’s in a way similar to Paris Hilton trying to sell things she claims she hates. And, given the state of today’s world, it actually works. Many comments to the post were praising the Plein and his girlfriend, but not everyone found her so attractive. A comment, originally written in Russian said “is she a transvestite or something?” Quite the mind-melt this entire thing, if you will. Now, we are not picking on Plein, he appears to be a nice guy (even though, according to Glassdoor reviews, “Plein himself has many issues - poor management, poor communication, big ego, short-tempered” and his company is run in the most chaotic way possible and is characterized by ignoring e-mails, foul language, no HR, no strategy, no respect and so on) and we’re sure that Lucia Bartoli is nice too, but often, one will find that women with fake ta-tas go with men with fake power - in other words, men who are not really rich or powerful. Who knows anymore?
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AT T I R E
C LU B
L I B R A RY
AttireClub.org Blog Must-Reads Get cozy in front of the fireplace and discover a list of must-read articles from our blog. Simply scan the QR code on the right or visit our website to check out the posts! How to Dress for a Winter City Break 10 Materials to Wear in the Winter The Guide to Overshoes A Guide To Men’s Winter Jackets Buying Men’s Winter Gloves: A Guide A Beginner’s Guide to Men’s Sweaters How to Match Striped Shirts with Striped Ties Classic Patterns: A Complete Guide Men’s Christmas and New Year’s Eve Party Style Made Easy The Guide to Christmas Sweaters Golfer’s Christmas Guide A Quick Guide To Men’s Winter Hats How to Tie Your Scarf This Winter 3 Fun Suits for Festive Occasions New Year’s Solutions 38 | InCompanytAttirehClub
From the Attire Club Travel Archive
Winter Evening in St. Moritz Situated in the Upper Engadine at 1856m, the world class Swiss resort St. Moritz has an above-average number of sunny days, namely over 300 each year. This is why, in 1930, the Sun itself was chosen as the resort’s symbol. St. Moritz has often been a pioneer, for example, the first electric Christmas light shone here in 1878, in 1889 the first golf tournament in the Alps took place here and in 1935 one of the first ski lifts in Switzerland was in operation. It’s a magnificent place where people come together, practice sports, have fun and enjoy the views of the magnificent Alps. Photo: Attire Club
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FA S H I O N
W O R L D
THE NEW RUNWAYS A LOOK AT THE SPRING-SUMMER 2021 WOMENSWEAR SHOWS
I
Text: Attire Club n our trend forecast for 2021 (with application to the Fashion Weeks of 2020), one of the major trends we mentioned was called “Modern Regency: Lords, noblemen and preppies”. As the new collections for the spring-summer 2021
season are being unveiled, we are seeing this trend appear more and more. So far, we can observe it more in womenswear, but we are expecting to see it appear more and more in the menswear sector as well. Last season, we could see Moschino introduce their autumn-winter 2020 collection, which was centered around Marie Antoinette shapes and curves. Nothing screams regency more than the aesthetics of peak Versailles. It can be said that the Moschino collection was a little ahead of its time, as, what followed was the big wave of royalty-inspired clothes and runways.
took place in a very elegant garden, with lush botanicals, which reminded people of a classic French or English castle garden. Valentino also added the botanicals to their show, both in terms of garments and in terms of décor. “Botanics” was
For the spring-summer 2021 season, the biggest highlight was definitely the Dolce & Gabbana show, which featured an impressive display of prints and patterns, all mixed in a truly royal manner.
also a trend we mentioned in the Attire Club trend forecast published back in 2019. The Burberry show also went natural, placing their presentation in the
woods and working with a very earth-in-Burberry spired chromatic. Earth was another big trend we announced. At Versace, it was an underwater aesthetic that dominated,
Dolce & Gabbana
Moschino
Working in full-lockdown mode, Moschino released a fabulous marionettes video, which featured not only their high-end clothes, but also figures of their usual guests. The overall ambiance of the marionette show was one of high exclusivism, similar to a show from the 1950s or so and, in our opinion, gave a glimpse into what fashion shows will be in the very near future. Most likely, we’re not going to see those major productions anymore. Kenzo’s collection was not very regal in terms of the clothes themselves, but more in terms of the presentation. The show
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Versace
with aquatic prints, wet styling and an overall under-the-sea set. Prada went in a different direction and released a video featuring cameras and monitors - a theme that is very likely to become an ascending trend over the next seasons. As an example, Miu Miu’s video, which was released just a bit later after Prada’s, also featured screens. Later on, at the begging of October, Louis Vuitton also released their video of their newest runway show. The clothes were a bit “meh”, but the set was very on-trend. To showcase their latest collection, which
Louis Vuitton
The F&F Trend Forecast for 2025-30
they did with a physical show, the Parisian brand created a set filled with green screens, which featured different images in the post-produced version. In a way, the screen trend is not surprising; given the amount of screen time everyone has since the beginning of the corona crisis. The first “digital runways” were quite boring it can be said, but the newer ones are really remarkable. The new physical shows also bring a lot of joy and excitement to the fashion world, which is something we desperately need more of these days. Besides from fashion shows, we are seeing a general trend towards a new society. Recently, Li Edelkoort announced that she, together with other people would work on establishing a “World Hope Forum” and launched it by doing an almost daylong Zoom call, which people who were interested could join. The keynotes were not necessarily focused on fashion, but on re-organizing the world altogether. When she made the original announcement, Edelkoort spoke of how she sees the world
Read this article with a song!
in a few years. She said that in the very near future, all that
P
ublished in April 2020, the Pain or Wonder trend forecast from Fraquoh and Franchomme defines the main trends in fashion, design, living and more. Today, we are witness-
ing a time of great change. New technologies like blockchain, 5G, AI, MR, IoT and others are driving the
will remain from today’s world are the buildings (and hope-
world into a new time, not just from a technological
fully the people), and that the systems in which we do things
point of view, but also from a political and cultural one.
will have to be redefined. The particularities of how systems
The coming years are most likely to bring new changes
would change have not been clearly mentioned, most people
in the way we live, in the way we organize our society,
probably don’t know all the details yet, but the trends are clear:
in the design of the objects we use on a daily basis
everything will slow down. The 20th century has been a cen-
(everything from cars to kitchen supplies), in politics
tury of rapid change and the beginning of the 21st century
and much more. The economic system will change
also saw many quick changes. However, at the same time, we
dramatically, and so will the way we interact with oth-
are seeing a slowing down in trends. Things are more static,
ers. Every social change involves a change in govern-
more stable and change less often. Moreover, we can notice a
ment, in the way we work and, as it is only natural, in
return to nature, which is not clearly defined. We’re expecting
the way we express ourselves artistically – the next
to see more and more people take on these trends over the
years may be agitated (probably more agitated than
next years.
people can imagine), but in a few years, life will slow down. Surely, some places will move more slowly than
We’ll look forward to what will be released next; this season
others. Trends today are becoming in general slower
of fashion is very likely going to become a reference season
and slower. For a while now, we have, in a way, come to
in fashion history.
a cultural standstill, so the next years will bring a shift and a “rethink” in the way we organize culture.
Discover the document at fraquohandfranchomme.com
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LievArts.com
Four Seasons Art
WATC H
WATC H I N G
WONDERS ON THE WRIST: THE WATCHES OF
Stefan kudoke
Stefan Kudoke is a German independent watchmaker. Before setting up his own brand, he worked at some world-renowned brands such as Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Breguet and Blancpain. Stefan is also the first independent watchmaker from Germany to be honored by the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève© (GPHG). In 2019, he won in the Petite Aiguille category for his KUDOKE 2 watch . Discover our interview with him! What can you tell us about your background? I was born in 1978 in the Eastern part of Germany, at that time still GDR, without any connections to horology at all. I went to a special sports school, where I pursued my first passion, cycling. After school, I started an apprenticeship as a watchmaker completely by chance and there I found my second passion. So I graduated with honors and refined my skills at the manufacture Glashütte Original in the studio for complications and prototypes. After receiving my Master Craftsman Certificate at the age of 22, I continued my professional development in the service department for Breguet, Blancpain, and Omega in New York before coming back to Germany to go to university. During my further studies of economics, I decided together with my now wife Ev to start a
cal part of my apprenticeship took place in the watchmaking
private business. At that time I was 26 years old. Now, at 42, I
school of Glashütte, where I later started to work at the re-
am still happy about this decision, as independence and free-
nowned manufacture Glashütte Original.
dom are two key factors for me to lead a happy life. How did you become a watchmaker?
Why did you shift from working with big brands to creating
I learned watchmaking the classical way in a small shop for
your own business?
restoration from two watchmakers (father & son). It was only
I always wanted to create something on my own. When I was
by chance that I fell into this occupation as I do not have any
a teenager I founded a company together with a couple of
horological family background. Only because the store was
friends offering airbrush design services and products. Cre-
located in my residential area I even considered becoming a
ativity and the urge to do something on my own have driven
watchmaker. At the age of 17, I started my apprenticeship in
me from early on. Above that, I might not be made to work in
my hometown Frankfurt (Oder), east of Berlin. The theoreti-
a huge organization. For me, it has been always important to
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realize my own ideas, not only being a little (executive) cog in a big wheel. What did you learn from running your own business? A lot, and I am still learning every day - this is what makes it so fascinating and exciting! Life for me is to set yourself always new goals and to accept new challenges. After a couple of years of self-employment, I can say that it also taught me patience and a certain level of calmness. Who are your customers? The typical KUDOKE customer does not exist. He/she is as individual and different as every watch from KUDOKE. But they all have one thing in common: our customers wear the watch for themselves, a big brand name is not important to him/ her. It is about the handcraft and the way it is manufactured. Therefore customers of KUDOKE are also “independent� in a certain way. Generally speaking, what is your process of creating a watch? The main criterion when developing a new watch model is that I have to like it myself. So I do not look at market researches like big brands do, but only listen to my own feeling (and that of my team of course). The rest of the creation process is quite similar to other watchmakers: at first, I do hand-sketches with first ideas, then I construct it, do the first prototypes, and once it is how I want it, the series (which is quite small compared to others) is going to be manufactured. Aesthetically, what are your sources of inspiration? That is a difficult question, as inspiration can come from different things that surround me, like the forest I walk through or
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Correct, I do not follow trends. Trends are most of the time short-lived. I want to manufacture watches that last. But that does not mean that we are not connected to the “watch-community“. We are in close contact with our customers, work with them on special projects and listen carefully to what they like and wish for. This exchange can also be a valuable source of inspiration.
the people I meet. Additionally, I love to browse through old books about historical watches and
But, of course, there is also a dilemma here - as
clocks. In the creation process, I sometimes use
a small team with no marketing department we
specific design elements and translate them into
can not attend every event etc.. We need this time
the modern age and interpret it in my own way. You are known very much for your skeleton watches. What can you tell us about your approach to these? Unfortunately, skeletonizing is not part of watchmaking education nowadays. In former times skeletonizing was a highly respected handicraft. But today mostly machines cut out parts of movements producing more and more interchangeable watches. So inspired by antique mechanical watches, I started to saw out movement plates. In the beginning, of course, I created a lot of waste. It took years to reach the quality level that a KUDOKE watch characterizes today. So the studying process was a long one - the more I practiced the better I became. Skill comes with practice. But, of course, you also need a great deal of imagination and creativity. And this is hard to learn – either you have it or you don’t. My personal approach for those pieces is to combine my artistic & creative vein with the technical aspect of watchmaking. That is why this collection line is called „KUNSTwerk“, the German word for work of art. It is about creating little ticking pieces of art
at the workbench and actually manufacture our watches. But we can observe that our customers and watch enthusiasts do support us a lot by distributing our philosophy and work especially through social media and word of mouth. For this, we are very grateful. As a final question, what watch would you like to make in the future? Why? For the time being, I am satisfied with the way things are. So we will focus on further developing the HANDwerk line with different models/indications and additional calibers. What appeals to me for the future is not so much doing a specific watch, but to refine my skills, to learn and deepen almost lost handcraft techniques, especially with regards to finishing and to incorporate those into future models. I consider my main task the securing of knowledge in watchmaking and its passing on to my children so that it does not get lost in the age of digitalization and eventually die out. In the end, it is all about humanity.
for the wrist. Maybe this is the reason why our skeleton watches are different from most of the others. I like to incorporate motives or special image concepts, like an art painter, who arranges his canvas. You are someone who does not follow trends. Would you say that you are not connected to the “watch community” - or what is your relation to it?
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Discover the KUDOKE website at kudoke.eu
Your Style Is Worth Your While
AttireClub.org
S T Y L E
G U I D E
7 Reasons to Wear Suspenders
S
Text: Attire Club uspenders are great fashion accessories, as they are
trends, suspenders are the thing for you. While there are more
stylish, practical and can even bring some surprising
types of suspenders out there to choose from, all types are
pluses not to just your looks, but also to the way you
just as cool.
feel and to your attitude. In this sense, we highly recommend men to get a pair of good suspenders.
2. Suspenders add structure The great thing about suspenders is that they add structure to
You can find many brands and stores that offer suspenders,
a man’s look. From a visual point of view, the lines drawn by
we recommend a store where you can find a wide variety of
suspenders add a type of enhanced structure to one’s body.
suspenders, such as JJ Suspenders. You may not even be
Thus, a man wearing suspenders will appear more grounded
aware of the many styles and types of suspenders available,
and confident, which is what fashion is all about.
in terms of fabrics (leather, nylon, canvas), style (X-style or Y-style, button-on, clip-on) or colors (you name it). A pair of
3. Suspenders add depth
dark suspenders or leather suspenders goes in many settings,
When we are discussing fashion and style, we always talk
from work to dinner, while others, more casual and colorful are
about a good outfit being one that has depth. Depth is usu-
more suited for casual settings, which is why it is important
ally achieved by adding multiple layers of clothing that are
to know what is available and make the best choice for you.
more or less visible. For example, a shirt - vest - jacket look
In this guide, we take a look at 7 reasons why you should wear
is a three-layer look that has depth. Suspenders do the trick
suspenders and what these can do for you!
as well, and you can especially use them during the summer, when adding too many layers may be a bit uncomfortable
1. Timeless style
from a thermic point of view.
Suspenders have been around for such a long time and look so amazing that they have become a staple of timeless style. If
4. Comfort
you want to look good and to wear something that transcends
Many guys have found that wearing suspenders is more com-
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fortable than a belt. The reason for this is because unlike
improve your overall pose and, by extension, your health. Not
some belts, suspenders don’t need any upward adjustment,
to mention the fact that when you stand up straight, you gen-
especially in the case of larger men. Moreover, suspenders
erally feel more bold and confident.
also allow your body to be more comfortable, which brings us to our next point…
7. Suspenders keep your shirt straight Sometimes, keeping your pants together with a belt can result
5. Good flow
in the billowing of your shirt. Wearing suspenders eliminates
Sometimes, a belt can act as a strain on your blood flow, re-
that stress, but you should, however, always be careful to wear
sulting in a bit of discomfort at your waist. Suspenders elimi-
fitting pants and shirts that are long enough to be tucked to
nate that stress and allow you to be not just very comfortable,
make sure your shirts stand well.
but healthier at the same time. All in all, it can be concluded that suspenders don’t just look 6. Suspenders promote good posture
great and secure your pants, but they can also add a lot of
Wearing suspenders will automatically make you stand up
health and confidence points to a man, which is why we con-
better. In suspenders, you are less tented to slouch. Thus, by
sider them a great accessory!
Shop at jjsuspenders.com
doing something as simple as wearing suspenders, you will
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T R AV E L
A L P H A B E T
T for Transylvania
Transylvania is a region in central Romania. It is mostly known for its medieval towns, mountainous borders and castles like the Bran Castle, a Gothic fortress associated with the legend of Dracula. Text / Photos: Attire Club
Bear tracks
STOKER’S COUNT DRACULA character is said to have been inspired by a 15th-century prince named Vlad III Drăculea, a military governor of noble descent known for impaling his enemies on stakes, which earned him the nickname Vlad the Impaler. One of the castles with which he is associated is the Gothic fortress Bran Castle, is a national monument, one of Transylvania’s best-known landmarks, and one of its most-visited destinations, even though, apparently, Vlad did not really reside there for too long (if, at all). TRANSYLVANIA IS FILLED WITH FORTRESSES and castles - every big city has a series of impressive monuments, but you will also find stunning sights in the smaller, lesser-known towns and villages of the region. IN THE PAST, there were very large Saxon and Hungarian minorities in the region. Today, in some parts people still speak
at home to have some type of competition of “who makes the
German and Hungarian is very common.
strongest palinca” going on.
TRANSYLVANIA IS CALLED IN HUNGARIAN Erdély. Linguists
PORK meat is mostly preferred in Transylvania. Here, you can
claim that the origin of this word comes from the Hungarian word ‘erdő’, which means forest, and more specifically, from ‘erdő-elő’ (might be translated as the moment you have not reached the forest yet). The Latin ‘Transylvania’ is the opposite, meaning ‘erdőn-túl’ (after you left the forest or across the
taste a wide range of homemade cold cuts, such as sausages and salami and many other meat specialties. Let’s just say that if you’re a vegetarian, you will most likely end up eating the salads served as garnishes to the main courses.
forest).
ROMANIA HOUSES 60% of Europe’s entire brown bear popula-
PALINCA is an alcoholic drink that is very popular in the re-
mon in the region, so it may not be completely safe to travel
gion. It is similar to the Russian vodka, as they’re both made through distillation, the difference being that vodka is made out of cereals and palinca is usually made out of fruit. If you are a tourist, you shouldn’t be surprised if your Transylvanian host will offer you a very strong palinca, that is almost impossible to drink, as it’s something normal for those who make it
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tion, most of which lives in Transylvania. Bears are very comalone or at night in the woods or the mountains. Sometimes, bears also enter villages and even at the peripheries of big cities. DRACULA may always be the headliner in terms of creepiness, but there is more going on in the region. The Hoia-Baciu Forest
Bran castle
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in Cluj-Napoca is known as the Bermuda Triangle of Eastern
PEOPLE HERE PARTY a lot. In some parts of Europe, clubs
Europe. The beautifully crooked, twisted trees that are found
close around 2 AM, but not around here. Don’t even think of
here are an eerie sight and have inspired countless folktales
arriving at a party before midnight—no one will be there, and
of people who have gone missing in the forest. These are said
parties often last until 8 AM.
to have been snatched by the ghouls that possess the trees themselves. There has been almost every possible mention
THERE IS A FASHION WEEK in Transylvania called Feeric
of paranormal activity, including vampires, ghosts and UFOs
Fashion Week, held between a few cities.
and is therefore considered one of the scariest forests in the world.
IF TRANSYLVANIA WAS AN INDEPENDENT STATE, it would be bigger than Portugal, Switzerland, the Netherlands, Belgium,
TRANSYLVANIA HAS SOME PARTS which are known as the “Small Siberia”. In regions such as Tinutul Secuiesc, there are valleys where the temperature during the winter season is approximately -30 degrees Celsius / -22 Fahrenheit. THE ASTRA MUSEUM in Sibiu is the second largest open-air museum in the world. It features over 300 houses and buildings, including watermills and windmills, impressive wine, fruits and oil presses, hydraulic forges and a lot more.
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Ireland, and Hungary.
A limo in Cluj-Napoca, Transylvania’s largest city
The Brasov fortress
Autumn afternoon in Bran The Black Church in Brasov (it gets its name because of a 1689 fire.
View of Soviet blocks in Cluj-Napoca
Medieval reenactment on the street. Sunset in Brasov
Old part of Cluj-Napoca
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I N
T H E I R
O W N
W O R D S
C ATC HING UP WIT H
Juan-Carlos Gordillo Juan-Carlo Gordillo is a fashion designer from Guatemala. What have you been working on recently? I’m working on my online store which I opened on the plat-
What are you currently obsessed with, fashion- and other-
form Etsy. In this store, I am offering my creations, which are
wise?
unique pieces and made under the concept “Upcycling and
Currently, I am experimenting with men’s fashion, and the
Slowness”. Through it, I can easily reach my customers who
pattern-making techniques used in order to make menswear.
will have the guarantee of my signature look. Of course, many
And I am also spending time with myself, my loved ones, and
clothes are made of denim (sometimes in combination with
friends. And obviously with my life partner Urs and my dog
other fabrics), which is my signature material.
Mona. They are an important part of my life.
Did your approach to design change over the last months?
Do you have any resolutions for next year?
No, on the contrary, I believe that I continue to develop my
To continue with my new e-commerce adventure, it needs a lot
style and philosophy; but now, I also offer male creations.
of attention because it is the present and obviously the future.
These have been well received by my customers and got pos-
I have a lot of faith in science, and believe that human intel-
itive comments from the industry.
ligence can help control the health crisis. This will help us to develop our purposes. Because right now, everything is uncer-
What do you make of the new changes in the fashion calen-
tain.
dar? I think the changes are good because the industry had an ab-
Juan-Carlos Gordillo
surdly stupid system. The entire process of creation, produc-
modeling his own
tion and consumption was not sustainable for anyone. I hope
menswear creation
that the changes are for the future and not just because of the pandemic. What is your opinion of the “digital runway shows” we’ve recently seen? Some of them seem to me like video games, but it was just a substitute tool, and we must adapt to the new options. I think that digital will never replace the magic of the real/face-toface experience. Fashion is like food; you enjoy it by touching and feeling it. The virtual will never replace these details.
Model: Bella Rosa Photograph by Martin Rößler
How do you think the fashion world will change over the next seasons? It is very early to predict a future, given the uncertain present, but I believe that fashion houses will focus more on quality and on “timeless” designs. What do you currently watch, read, listen to? I am currently watching “The Walking Dead” for the second time. I am a fan of this series because it shows the true personality of humans. I listen to a lot of indie folk, country, classical, as well as modern music and I am discovering Spanish artists like Maria Pelae. Over the last two months, I read the books “Dime Quien Soy” (“Tell Me Who I Am) by Julia Navarro and “El Zorro” by Isabel Allende; and, currently, I am reading the book “Homo Deus: Breve Historia del Mañana” (“Homo Deus: A Brief History of Tomorrow”) by Israeli author Yuval Noah Harari.
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Model: Katharina Heß Photograph by Martin Rößler
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Current Obsessions Eternal FabergĂŠ Elegance
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Since 1842 when it was established in St. Petersburg, Russia, FabergĂŠ has been a brand associated with glory, high elegance and beauty. Today, the brand is as strong as even and offers a series of impressive jewelry collections. Photos: FabergĂŠ
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FA S H I O N
H I S TO RY
A Brief Visual History of Santa Claus Text: Attire Club
Kris Kringle, Father Christmas, Sinterklaas... Santa Claus has not only many names around the world (and in time), but also many looks. Here is a look at how Santa’s style has evolved through time.
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n December 24, every year, homes around the world are expecting to welcome a guest in their homes. It’s a guest they have never really met, don’t expect to ever
meet, but about whom they know precisely what he looks like and what he is like. Santa Claus is coming to town each year to bring gifts and presents to children who were nice during the year that is about to end. And, even though nobody has ever seen the real Santa Claus, we all know what he looks like and what his personality is: St. Nick, Father Christmas or Kris Kringle, as he is also known, is an older man who travels through the sky on the evening of December 24 in a sledge carried by reindeer, and enters the homes of Christians through the chimney only to leave presents under the Christmas tree or in stockings, depending on where you live. He is dressed in red and is quite heavy and has an upbeat spirit and is very merry.
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ave you ever wondered what Santa Claus looked like a hundred years ago or more and how his style and look
have developed over the years? Where did Santa come from and how come, despite his imposing stature, he can easily glide through the chimney?
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A 13th century icon of St. Nicholas did not look very much like our version of Santa Claus, and he was more interested in the festive aspect of Christmas (which was the central aspect of the holiday during the Middle Ages) than on focusing on children and gift-giving.
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nce colonizers from Northern Europe, the Netherlands and the British Isles moved and settled in America, these
images started to mix, which is why the US Santa has so many names: Father Christmas, Santa Claus (which is a re-interpretation of the Dutch word “Sinterklaas”).
ur brief visual history of Santa Claus begins in Northern
But Santa’s image as
Europe, where during the month of December, and es-
we know him today was
pecially around the winter solstice (on December 21), when
not the creation of pop-
some places don’t even receive one minute of sunlight, people
ular belief. It was two
created a series of characters that would bring gifts to bright-
New Yorkers who lived
en up the mood of the season. These characters were either
in the 19th century that
elves, gods and even goats, but they were not very similar to
defined Santa Claus as
what Santa is today.
the man we know today.
The first Santa-like character is the Dutch Saint Nicholas, who was inspired by a real 4th century Greek bishop who was
Clement Clarke Moore
known for his kindness and for putting gifts in people’s socks.
(July 15, 1779 – July
Sinterklaas, as the Dutch call him, is dressed like a bishop and
10, 1863) was a New
wears red and white brings gifts to kids who were nice in ear-
York professor of orien-
ly December. A similar character existed in England, and was
tal and Greek literature
known by the name of “Father Christmas”. Father Christmas
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who in 1822 wrote a 56-
Clement Clarke Moore
In Russia, Santa Claus (Father Frost) comes along with his daughter line poem named “A Visit from Saint Nicholas”.
North Pole and has a big naughty or nice list.
Today, we know that poem by the name of “The Night Before
Nast continued his drawings year after year and, by the 1900s,
Christmas”. In this poem, he singlehandedly created the mod-
the image of Santa Claus as we know him today was already
ern American Christmas myth and set the basis for the way we
created and was starting to spread throughout the world.
see Christmas today. Moore drew his inspiration from the orig-
Needless to say that some cultures were not very happy to
inal Greek Saint Nicholas and from his Dutch version. Moore,
welcome back a character they had exported several years
however, added a few different visual elements to his Ameri-
ahead. Today in the Netherlands, Sinterklaas is still more pop-
can Santa: he dressed him in American fur and gave him a pipe
ular than the classic Santa Claus.
and presented him not as the bishop he was in Europe, but as a merry elf with a joyous spirit that was able to glide through the chimney due to his small size. Moore’s Santa carried a sack full of toys on his back and flew through the sky on a
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here is one more interesting aspect that marks the evolution of Santa Claus’ image and style. Even though many
people believe that it was Coca-Cola that dressed Santa Claus
sleigh carried by eight reindeer, something which was inspired
in red, this is not true. However, Coca-Cola did make use of
by the god Odin, who flew on a horse with eight legs. However,
Nast’s Santa Claus to promote their brand during the off-sea-
Moore’s Santa had no elves, no letters from children and no
son and associated their red and white of their logo with the
North Pole workshop.
red and white Santa was dressed in. Furthermore, since Coca-Cola is an international brand, their ads contributed to the
These elements were introduced by Thomas
spread of the image of the American Santa throughout the
Nast, another New Yorker who lived in the 19th
world, especially in countries that did not have images of San-
century. Nast was a caricaturist and editorial
ta Claus and therefore, for millions, the image of Santa from
cartoonist who completed Moore’s image of
Coca-Cola commercials is the only one they have.
Santa Claus. In 1862, he was commissioned by one of America’s most prominent maga-
Today, in pure post-modern spirit, Santa Claus is reinterpreted
zines, Harper’s Weekly, to create their Christ-
and made to reference anything and everything (we have hip-
mas illustrations. He based his drawings on
ster Santas, skater Santa, pilot Santa), but the image that pre-
Moore’s character, but transformed him from
vails is still the one created by two New Yorkers in the 1800s.
an elf into an old, big man who lives at the
Thomas Nast (1840 – 1902)
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What Santa really looks like, we might never know, but what we know for sure is that we can each imagine him whatever we like and that history shows that he is a man who likes to keep up with the fashions and trends of the world.
Father Christmas, as illustrated in Josiah King’s two pamphlets of 1658 and 1678 ‘Ghost of Christmas Present’ in Charles Dickens’s A Christmas Carol 1843 A famous image from the novel is John Leech’s illustration of the ‘Ghost of Christmas Present’. Although not explicitly named Father Christmas, the character wears a holly wreath, is shown sitting among food, drink and wassail bowl, and is dressed in the traditional loose furred gown—but in green rather than the red that later become ubiquitous.
“Le Bonhomme Noël” by Osvaldo Tofani in his green clothes and on a sled (Le Monde illustré, December 21, 1895).
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An image from the 1864 edition of Clement Moore’s poem “A Visit from St. Nicholas”
The “Merry Old Santa� by Thomas Nast A Santa Claus Coca-Cola ad
A contemporary Dutch Sinterklaas and the Zwarte Piet character
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T R E N D S
the small attire club trend book
It is very likely that the times that will soon come will bring a lot of change with them. We will most likely see a lot of “looking towards ourselves” attitudes, which will be in some ways counter-balanced by some groups. Any change in society brings a shift in aesthetics as well (or is it the other way around?). In this sense, while many of the trends of the last seasons will continue (the ones we correctly guessed are Earth, Regency, Botanics, etc.), many new directions will appear. Here is a look at some general trends we’re expecting to see in fashion, but also in home décor, city planning, art, entertainment, tech and food. 64 | InCompanytAttirehClub
P REHISTORIC STORIES
Over the last seasons, we have definitely seen a massive growth in handmade, naïve products. Now, this trend will be taken to the extreme, as we are expecting to see a lot of prehistoric aesthetics. Think “raw”, “asymmetric”, “brut”, etc. attireclub.org |
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BRUTALISM
Brutalism was the soviet architectural style that is now making a come-back. Currently, it is not a massive trend, but we are expecting to see it grow. What is interesting is that it will most likely be adapted by very different types of groups. On the one hand, communist nostalgics will enjoy it and, on the other hand, we will a growth of so-called “brotalists” - big dudes who want massive, durable elements in a dainty and fragile world. In this sense, we’re expecting to see not only hard and heavy structures (in many fields), but also concepts such as concrete, bros, boxing, etc. will be processed in architecture, fashion, art, food, tech and more. Hotel Casino de la Selva, Cuernavaca, Mexico, photo by Félix Candela
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MIDCENTUR Y MODERN Mid-century modern is an American design aesthetic that applied to interior, product, graphic design, architecture, and urban development. It was most popular from roughly 1945 to 1969, during the United States’ post–World War II period. We’re expecting it to make a slight come-back through things such as “upscale Ikea furniture” or simple, yet elegant clothes with a strong accent on easy storage and high functionality.
Aquarelle Aquarelle is the technique of painting in transparent, rather than opaque tones with watercolors. This naĂŻve, childlike aesthetic will make a significant trend over the next seasons. Its dainty colors and soft lights will be what many people will lean towards to.
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COLOR F UL G LASS
Whether in home objects, architecture, but also fashion and tech, the world will be taken by storm by colorful, mostly transparent glass. While stained glass may be the basis for all of this, we are also expecting to observe a lot of soft, transparent glass (or imitations or adaptations, of course).
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COLOR REPORT G REEN
Green will be one of the trending colors of the near future. Of course, this has a lot to do with ecology, but it is also related to nuclear power, aliens and more. To be more nuanced, A.I. Aqua (which is more towards teal or blue than green) is considered the trending color of 2021.
Powder Power: Pink, Coral, Champagne ATOMIC TAN G ERINE Atomic tangerine was a shade of orange introduced in 1972. Back then, the brutalist trend was taking off in many places, and there was also a 20s revival all over the place (which has somewhat melted in the overarching visuals of the 1970s). In this sense, we’re expecting to see many oranges be a part of the near future. Dusty shades and powder-like tones such as pink, coral or champagne will also be on-trend.
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M E TA FA S H I O N
20 21 A Fresh Start 70 | InCompanytAttirehClub
The New Year is a holiday that looks both towards the year’s that’s passed and towards the year that is coming. It is a great time to reflect and to make plans, but also to understand oneself and the world. Above all, the New Year is a brand new chance to get it right. attireclub.org |
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H ave you already heard About the newest thing in town? P eople say it’s glorious P eople say it’s fun Y ou’d say it was the coolest thing under the sun. Now the truth is, E verybody knows W hen the new year comes, Y ou know how it goes! E very new start Attracts a different vibe
R eady to get better, like a good, old wine. 72 | InCompanytAttirehClub
The Wishlist
Read this article with a song!
3D Crystal Iceberg, custom orders available at artpix3d.com
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New Year Cocktails Discover our recommendations for a fun-filled NYE party!
WHITE RUSSIAN Ingredients: 5 cl / 1 2/3 oz (5 parts) Vodka 30 cl / 1 oz (3 parts) Fresh cream 2 cl / 2/3 oz (2 parts) Coffee liqueur Preparation: Pour coffee liqueur and vodka into an Old Fashioned glass filled with ice. Float fresh cream on top and stir slowly. Served: On the rocks; poured over ice Drinkware: Old-fashioned glass
CHAMPAGNE COCKTAIL Ingredients: 4.4 cl / 1 1/2 oz brandy 2.2 cl / 3/4 oz ruby port 2.2 cl / 3/4 oz orange juice 11 cl / 4 oz champagne Preparation: Pour the brandy, port, and orange juice into a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake well. Top with champagne. Served: Cool Drinkware: Champagne flute BIJOU Ingredients: 1 part gin 1 part green Chartreuse 1 part sweet vermouth Dash orange bitters Preparation: Stir in mixing glass with ice and strain Served: Regular, no ice Drinkware: Cocktail glass
GIBSON Ingredients: 16 cl / 2 ounces (6 parts) gin 1 cl / 0.33 ounce (1 part) dry vermouth 1 silverskin onion Preparation: Stir well in a shaker with ice, then strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with the onion. Served: On ice Drinkware: Cocktail glass
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FA S H I O N
A N D
T E C H
What is the future of
E-COMMERCE?
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Text: Attire Club lobal e-commerce retail sales to hit $4.9 trillion by
opments, such as Russia, Brazil or India will witness a consid-
2021. New studies estimate that the worldwide re-
erable growth in online sales.
tail e-commerce sales will reach a new high by 2021.
E-commerce businesses should anticipate a 265% growth
In terms of marketing, we will see an increase in videos. Ap-
rate, from $1.3 trillion in 2014 to $4.9 trillion in 2021.
parently, 64% of shoppers make a purchase after watching branded social videos and many people prefer watching a vid-
These figures clearly indicate that the world of online shop-
eo about a product rather than reading the product descrip-
ping is on the rise. But, what many people ask themselves is
tion. Review videos can also strongly contribute to the growth
how the market will change over the course of the years to
of digital shopping.
come? In the long run, we will see more and more people being interOne of the main things people ask themselves is whether
ested in the story of the items they purchase. They will want
physical stores will become obsolete. The answer is definitely
to find out where the materials are sourced, where they are
“no�, at least not anytime soon. Malls and boutiques are still
made and how and other similar information. In this sense,
a very strong part of the retail chain. However, some physical
blockchain-based applications can come to meet these re-
stores will change their direction a little bit, in that they will
quirements.
focus more on experiences, on showcasing unique products and on customer interaction, especially when it comes to per-
In short; for now, online shopping will grow overall and very
sonalization of goods, which will also be a big trend.
much in the fashion and styling sector too. This is why we can now see many brands pursue collaborations: they are appeal-
Another thing that will happen in the world of digital retail is
ing to several audiences at once, which helps them increase
that we will see an increase in sales in emerging markets.
their sales. In the long run, we will see a bit of a divide between
Countries and regions that are currently seeing major devel-
markets, but that is still to come.
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LievArts.com
Seeing Sounds
FA S H I O N
W O R L D
Popov Leather Belts The AC Review Text: Attire Club
Popov Leather is a Canadian brand started about 7 years ago
with such belts. In time, the belts do get softer, but not more
by Ryan Popoff, who set out to create a top-notch leather wal-
fragile. Their buckles are also strong, so you probably won’t
let. Little by little, his brand developed and currently employs
have to worry about them breaking soon.
a team of professionals who work on creating and marketing high-quality leather goods. Their most-known products are
The belts proposed by Popov Leather come in different colors
their belts and wallets, but they also make watch straps, pass-
and shades. However, they are all neutrals, which means that
port covers and more.
you can wear them with anything. In fashion, neutral colors are colors like black, brown, beige, khaki, gray, dark blue, and a
Recently, we got the chance to see and wear some Popov
few others. These colors can be matched with anything wor-
Leather belts, which come highly recommended by both the
ry-free. This is a plus for most guys, who often fear that they
brand and other customers. The belts are made from heavy-
may look foolish without realizing it. But, rest calm gents, as
weight Horween leather, which means that they are supposed
the belts by Popov Leather can be worn with anything from
to be strong and durable and to look very good as well.
jeans to gray or black pants, even if the belts are rather brown. Surely, as mentioned above, they may not be suited for a for-
Popov Leather has established itself as one of the popular
mal suit, both because of their ruggedness and because suits
leather good brands on the Internet, while it may not be a
should usually be more matchy-matchy, but you can definitely
brand you see at every street corner, it’s one that people know
wear a Popov Leather belt with a casual suit.
and talk about. Their belts and wallets are often compared to those of other popular brands, which makes them a household name in the niche.
Another thing that is important to say when it comes to the Popov Leather belts is that upon buying them, you need to be
And, indeed, the Popov Leather belts are worth their praise.
careful about their sizing instructions and to make sure you
They are indeed strong and seem extremely durable, after
get the sizing right. However, if the belt may not fit, they do
wearing them day in and day out for a while, it still seems that
have a 90 days exchange policy.
they will be in great shape a long time from now.
In terms of pricing, at $79 / piece, these belts are well-priced and compare with other products from similar brands.
The most important thing to know about the Popov Leather belts is that their overall aesthetic is more on the casual side:
In conclusion, it can be said that if you are looking for a cool
they are best for everyday wear and not the go-to belt for an
belt that you will probably wear for a long time or a nice gift
evening party. However, they do go in every other context: you
for someone, you can find one that suits you on the Popov
can wear them to work, you can wear them when you’re out
Leather website.
having fun with your friends, and you can even wear them to a more dressy event if you can make it work with the entire
Popov Leather is a brand that is dedicated to offering quality
ensemble. Their sturdiness definitely is their most impressive
products, which means that they will do all they can to satisfy
quality; these belts are what we would call “statement acces-
their customers. And for that, they are definitely worth trying
sories”, in that they make a great impact when worn. We feel
out!
yet bold accessories that look masculine and that convey a strong spirit, all while being subtle and understated. Their cool ruggedness is their key feature. The belts are quite thick and wide, which is great, but it also implies that you need to wear them with pants that will work
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Shop at popovleather.com
that this is something many men today want, to wear simple
THE ATTIRE CLUB MOOD DIARY Our mood board as a visual journal 78 | InCompanytAttirehClub
Renaissance Era Costumes Kostüme der Männer und Frauen in Augsburg und Nürnberg, Deutschland, Europa, Orient und Afrika (Costumes for Men and Women in Augsburg and Nuremberg, Germany, Europe, the Orient and Africa) is an anonymous manuscript currently present at the Bayerischen Staatsbibliothek (Bavarian Library) in Germany. It contains around three hundred hand-painted national costumes produced in the 16th century. The book was most likely created in Augsburg and seems to be one of a very few similar works from around the same time. The captions above are the rough chapter - country - translations with a little modernizing and, in the interests of avoiding any unintended international conflicts, should probably be taken with a grain of salt. They all are, however, great pattern, color and print inspiration. All the images featured were extensively background cleaned. attireclub.org |
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Russia, Poland, Finland, Lapland, Croatia
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Ireland
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Turkey
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Turkey
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Venice
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Hungary
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LievArts.com
Seeing Sounds
Stories from our web
Make sure to like, share and subscribe @attireclub
Check out some highlights of things we liked and shared on our IG stories feed!
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S E C R E T S
O F
FA S H I O N
Masks as Veils:
Discussions on the Symbol of Purity and Identity
Text / Photo: Attire Club
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Breathing In, Breathing Out
The question of who we are and how we relate to others has
he global corona crisis has had a significant impact
two types of answers. The first one can be described as the
on the world - not just from a medical, but also from
connected mode, which is characterized by an ongoing move-
an economic and social point of view. In a way, it has
ment towards the outside. The second one, the separation
accelerated what was already happening, namely a
mode, proposes a return to our roots and towards the group
change in the world, acting as a replacement of a war; and
and thus involves a strong differentiation from the outside.
at the same time, putting a bit of a twist on the way we see
The coronavirus has forced people to deal with these issues,
things.
which had been anyway at the forefront of debates and discussions around the world, mostly though in the Western
The corona crisis is a deeply interesting situation from a phil-
world. Do we separate from the “other� or not?
osophical or symbolic point of view. What we are seeing with the corona crisis is a clear accel-
The Sick Self
complicated as well: identity, integrity, the relation between
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the inside and the outside, how these are separated and how
own world, where you are at the center, you would most likely
flexible those lines are.
sketch it as a world that contains different outside layers of
eration of a break down in meaning. And, as with any breakdown in meaning, the themes that are being put forward are the most basic things people deal with - but some of the most
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he main characteristic of an infectious disease is that it always arrives from an outside source. It does not matter at what level we regard it. A virus is something
that comes from the outside. If you were to imagine your
“not you”. For example, a closer layer contains your family and
aspects, but which work on the same structure are, for ex-
friends, another layer your acquaintances, then the strangers
ample, things such as saying goodbye to your guests. When
and then even your enemies. A further layer would contain ani-
people who are “foreign” leave, the purity of the family is main-
mals, as separate entities that border your universe, but which
tained. The field of fashion and clothing is also filled with such
are nevertheless more or less connected to it. In an ordered
examples: leaving your shoes at the entrance door, taking off
world, at the very margin, you will find death and chaos. Thus,
the “street” overcoat are just a few examples. In some Islamic
it is not surprising that the coronavirus has come from the
societies, women remove their veil once they are within the
“outside”, no matter who you are. Most people see it as coming
protection of their home and in front of those who are not, in
from China, but in China, it is seen as coming from animals
one way or another, considered “outsiders”.
- regardless of who and where you are, any virus is seen as
Thus, it can be clearly said that purity is strongly tied to iden-
coming from an outside layer. It comes as no surprise that so
tity.
many diseases throughout history, especially those that have affected cross-borders communities are said to originate from
One of the places where a big part of the daily expression of
animals. Flees or rats were the carriers in the past, while today
our identity takes place is the bathroom. Here, we wash our-
we hear of the swine or bird flu. Even HIV is said to have orig-
selves from the dirt with which we come into contact, here
inated from monkeys, and, even if that is not true, it is highly
put on things such as hairspray, beard oil and makeup, but it
interesting, since it confirms the way we see and live the world
is also here where we take it all off. The bathroom is where
as a symbol. The same structure is applied to the urban myth
we trim our beards, clip our nails and leave behind everything
of the bat soup.
that is not “us” at a symbolic level. While it may be a touchy topic, the bathroom is where we also leave what our body does
When looking at the structures of being which rule the West
not need, which is our excrements, and we use toilet paper
today, we can definitely notice that, after World War II, we have
to make that clear distinction. The reason why people went
moved very strongly towards the connected mode of being.
crazy and bought tons and tons of toilet paper now is self-ex-
The UN, the international trade concept, the European Union
planatory.
and even more abstract concepts, such as the “global village” are all examples of that. The notion of extending yourself to the outside has been almost the most poignant idea of the last
Masks as a Symbol for Civilization
were completely quarantined, with no way of getting in or out.
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The fact that today there is no balance between the connect-
medical masks, while others made sure to express their iden-
ed and the separated mode is the reason why the measures
tity through fashion masks.
half a decade or so. Now, the pandemic is forcing us (more or less) to reconsider these ideas. Back in the spring, many countries closed down their borders and, in some cases, even cities
oon enough, an element resembling in a way a piece of toilet paper was introduced, namely the face mask. One after the other, groups, societies and places made
masks a mandatory thing to wear. Most people wore classic
that were taken to combat the spread of COVID-19 seemed so severe. The lack of balance between identity (what is “me” or
The casual face mask is also an interesting symbol of purity
“us”) and what is the “other” is in a way similar to not looking
and identity. Generally speaking, masks, regardless of culture
around when walking around in a dark space. Hence, the con-
of context, imply the assuming of an identity. In carnival, peo-
fusion that was generated by the coronavirus was quite the
ple dress up in order to make things that would otherwise be
natural thing to happen.
socially unacceptable, in some tribes, people wear masks to fight, as to not be blamed for their actions and in other con-
The crisis pushed things towards extreme of the separated
texts, people wear masks in order to be “possessed” by a spirit
mode, but it did not get there completely. However, forcing
which will allow them to facilitate one thing or another in the
people to close themselves with and only with those in their
spiritual or physical realm. So, indeed, masks are an element
very close proximity, which, in many cases meant only with
tied to one’s (assumed) identity.
themselves, has lifted a veil off the problems of the high-connected mode.
The face mask worn during a health crisis is very strongly tied to the idea of a “purity veil”. The most common purity veil is, of course, the veil worn by a woman on her wedding day, when
Matters of Purity
D
she comes to altar covered in a white, transparent veil, which
iscussing diseases and viruses cannot happen without
she (or her fiancé) takes off as she arrives at the final stop
taking a look at their opposite, namely at purity. Purity
before the ceremony. This entire concept is strongly tied to
is a notion that is very much connected with the idea
the notion of purity and identity. It is tied to purity in that it
of cleanness. And, what one does when he wants to become
marks the fact that what lies beneath is pure and untouched
clean is obviously to remove what is unclean. This is a phe-
by the outside world or by anything that could be (symbolical-
nomenon that happens at every level in society. For example,
ly) considered “dirty” and it is tied to identity in that the bride
when you are dirty and your hands are full of germs, you go
is unveiled before her future husband. She takes the veil off
wash your hands in order to remove the germs. Less obvious
only when she is in front of him, as to mark the intimate rela-
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tionship between the two and also, the husband needs to see
march towards anonymity through the new technologies that
her and make sure that she is who he expects her to be before
will shape the next decades, such as blockchain. Blockchain’s
becoming married to her.
primer feature is that it is a system on which pretty much anything can be built and which allows for transparency within
Modern masks have a very similar role: they are a marker of
anonymity. For example, with the help of blockchain, one can
the difference of the outside, impure world and the pure, inti-
build a banking system, which keeps everyone’s information
mate, inside-the-walls world.
private, but which will automatically point out any faults in the system. Similar technologies can be applied to almost any-
Interestingly enough, masks have been a theme that appeared
thing.
in fashion for a little while now. They actually started appearing before the global crisis, and some forecasters predicted
Moreover, the idea that anonymity is the new celebrity is not
that masks would be trending on the runways of the world.
very new and, while it may not really be something that will
This is quite interesting since it is pretty clear that designers
last for a long time, for now, as the world sees much unrest
and forecasters could not have known what would unfold.
and people are not willing to take responsibility for their ac-
Even if we would be conspiratorial in our thinking, we could
tions, being anonymous will continue to be “a thing”.
agree that it is very unlikely that so many people knew what
Mass identification will be a prominent characteristic of the
would come.
world of the next years. Already, a good number of systems that support this movement are in place, and it can be said
But, what can be said is that most likely all these people felt it
that they will only grow over the next period of time.
in the air, they could - consciously or unconsciously - smell the fact that we are in an identity crisis and that this is sartorially expressed through masks, which are an overarching symbol
A Cultural Collapse
protect people from catching the virus or not, but, regardless,
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masks have, besides all their other meanings, also come to be
that has its equivalents in philosophy (nihilism), society (total-
a symbol for caring about others. Thus, these masks are, in a
itarianism) and religion (Satanism). It is characterized by the
way, ritualized tokens with a strong narrative component.
idea of a lack in values, of powerlessness (which forces one
for civilization. The symbolic connections between “health” masks and carnival or ritualistic masks is very wide. For example, there is a still ongoing debate about whether masks do
ooming out, one can clearly say that the way the crisis was handled was a clear reflection of the postmodern thought which characterizes our times. Postmodern-
ism is not just an artistic movement; it is an entire paradigm
to “struck a deal”) and of randomness. And, if you take a close Protective masks are, through their ritualistic component, also
look, the handling of the corona crisis check with excellence
a way of drawing the focus point of people to the pandemic by
all of these boxes.
creating a type of modern, urban superstition. To get a better understanding of this, we can take a quick look at how some
Some of the measures that were met by local authorities
superstitions work. For example, if you are in the proximity
around the world seemed very odd, and many people got really
of danger and “knock on wood” - the act of doing so draws
frustrated with them.
your attention to the context, which is the first step in taking precautions to avoid the danger. In the same way, wearing a
For example, the idea that sneezing has almost become a
mask, even if it may not completely shield you or others from
crime for which one can get arrested is a very strange one.
SARS-CoV-2, is a way of drawing your attention and the at-
The house arrest, under which millions were put, basically
tention of others to the fact that you are finding yourself in
forbidding them to see their friends, family or even their boy-
a crisis situation. If you think about it, this conventionalism
friends, girlfriends and fiancés was a mind-numbing concept.
is what drives people even at a subconscious level to wear
People who were jogging alone in parks were hunted down by
masks even where there aren’t many others around. There
drones like fugitives on the run. The information regarding the
have been cases where people were asked to wear masks
disease, that was given out as a letter of law was often con-
even during digital meetings (for real). The state thus manag-
tradicted in a matter of days and some local measures were
es to convince people to always remind themselves that they
downright absurd. For example, in many parts of the world,
are living in a dangerous setting.
there was a curfew, making it illegal to walk the streets at night. In other parts, elderly people, who were supposed to be
The fact that masks are very much about assuming a differ-
the most fragile in the face of COVID were allowed to walk out-
ent identity is also connected to the idea put forward by many
side only during a certain time frame, thus cranking them all
people that through this crisis, we will usher in a new time
up together in supermarkets and buses. Even odder was the
and a new way of doing things. In certain regards, this en-
fact that protests were seen as harmful or benign, depending
tire “masking” process is about the new person. If we allow
on what was being protested and some businesses were told
ourselves to stretch out this idea, we can see how anonymity
to stop their work, even if they were done by a single person,
may be the new state of things. While, on the one hand, there
from their home, in front of their computer.
is a clear direction towards the lack of privacy, there is also a
98 | InCompanytAttirehClub
Tell anyone these things and they will believe you are talking from a postmodern fiction novel.
Up or Down?
T
he corona crisis happened in part due to a major crisis in identity. This led to a lack in containment, which is how serious problems spread. This may also mean that
in the future, we will other crises take place, until people will learn to assume one identity or another. Think of it this way: identity means separation. A bottle of apple juice is a bottle of apple juice because it is separated from a bottle of milk. If there is no container, meaning no bottle, one cannot speak of order (apple juice vs. milk) and only of chaos and basically of an unusable mess. There are very many levels on which the crisis can be analyzed; for example, it could be talked about why some people choose to self-isolate at an individual level, while others at a community level, the crisis can also be broken down from the perspective of the concept of the crown and of glory through
Worlds and World Views: The End of the Mainstream
suffering (and the crown’s relation to horns) and from many other points of view. What needs to be clearly said is that while a symbolic analysis is crucial for a better understanding of the world and its structures, we must also always remember that the hands-on level is also a crucial one to act at. What is clear is that this crisis will change the world. The challenge we are not faced with is not to cling to certainty and to have a fatalistic view, but to think about discovering and implementing new ways of doing things that will help us fulfill our needs, be happy and make it work well for ourselves as individuals.
H
ave you ever wondered whether we live in the same world or not? Of course, not physically, but rather mentally. The world is subjective as it, but today’s social
climate makes people grow apart more and more. This was quite the norm back in the day, and now it seems that we are seeing a revival of this social stratification. In the past, people were separated, but they were not living together. Today people live together and are more and more mentally separated. Living in different worlds means not just that people disagree on things or that they see things differently, but they don’t even think of the same things and can’t even relate to each other. While our universes intertwine physically, they seem to connect less and less on a psychological and mental level. In a way, it is the end of the mental public square. It’s the end of the mainstream. Moreover, when it comes to values, people are not at all on the same page. It has become a cliché to say that one group or another such as youth, for example, have no values but what
Read this article with a song!
this means is actually something very profound - it actually means that people can’t even relate to the same things in the same way. For example, when someone thinks of the idea being rich and having a high status; of grandeur and elegance, some believe that that is something that is part of the universe of Hollywood celebrities, others of the Royal Court of England, others of silicon Valley and others believe that the paramount of richness is their local mayor. Having complete understandings of the same idea makes communication quite impossible, which means that in the future, we will probably see a great divide between groups.
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C I N E M A
C U LT U R E
1
THE AC Winter MOVIES LIST When it snows outside and the wood is cracking in the fireplace, treat yourself to a film!
Lies My Father Told Me (1975) Fiddler on the Roof (1971) Babel (2006) Snow in August (2001) Jack (2004) Love is All (2007) National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation (1989) Andrei Rublev (1966) Solaris (1972) Stalker (1979) The Mill and the Cross (2011) Girl with a Pearl Earring (2003) Mortdecai (2015) A.I. Artificial Intelligence (2001) Zoolander (2001) 100 | InCompanytAttirehClub
2 “I am searching for nothing, I am happy”
“
Text: Attire Club I am searching for nothing, I am happy” is one of the most thought-provoking lines to be said in a documentary film. The quote stems
from Jonas Mekas’ 1968 production Diaries, Notes and Sketches (also known as Walden). The feature film is a collage of scenes shot by the director across a few decades. In the words of Mekas himself, “Since 1950 I have been keeping a film diary. I have been walking around with my Bolex and reacting to the immediate reality: situations, friends, New York, seasons of the year. On some days I shoot ten frames, on others ten seconds, still on others ten minutes. Or I shoot nothing.... Walden contains material from the years 1964-1968 strung together in chronological order.” The movie has a very “vloggish” vibe, as we would put it today and a rather artistic feel to it, depending on who you ask, that is. At a closer look though, Walden is a highly profound, monumental work of art. Regardless of what one may think of Mekas’ aesthetic and style, the “I am searching for nothing, I am happy” is extremely intriguing and worth debating. At the first level, the line seems to encapsulate the ultimate state of happiness. In a way, we tend to get to understand that happiness resides in being at peace with the world. Not searching for solutions to problems, not looking for meaning, not being challenged seems to be a state of nirvana. Or, it can be argued that the line does not imply a nirvana-like state, but
The line can be interpreted many other ways. One may not seek anything and be complacent because he does not know there is anything to seek. Another meaning could be that he does know that he could search for a lot, but chooses not to search for anything, either because he feels defeated or because he decides that it is what is best for him. Quite a lot of options. It is said that continually searching for happiness won’t make you happy - could it have something to do with this concept? “I am searching for nothing, I am happy” is a fascinating line, especially if taken out of any context and analyzed as a quote. It makes one reflect on the multiple perspectives that can be had over one thing and offers insight into how one thing can have as its “core code” a variety of ideas with the same outcome, but, depending on the code, with different meanings.
rather a stoic state, where one takes things with ease. However, at a deeper analysis, one may begin to ask himself whether this not-search-for-anything happiness is not a type of being complacent.
Read this article with a song!
One might argue that life is all about searching for better results, for higher meanings and for the actualization of the self and of the other. In this sense, the line becomes a manifesto of a lazy man, of someone lacking a deep interior life. So, which one is it? Is it a simple recipe for happiness, implying that being at peace with oneself with the most important thing, or is it a reflection of a time of nihilism and scary dogmatism?
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101
3 Quelle Tristesse: The Paris Hilton Documentary Text: Attire Club
“It made me not trust anyone. Not even my own family,” Paris says as her voice goes from her real, deep voice to the fake, baby voice.
B
ack in September, Paris Hilton released a documentary
herself. As the years went by and Paris passed the torch to
on her YouTube channel, titled “This is Paris”. The fea-
her former assistant, Kim Kardashian, Paris started focusing
ture film had as its purpose to shed a new light on the
on being a DJ, doing club appearances and selling everything
controversial starlet.
from perfumes and other cosmetics to bags and shoes worldwide. She really became a rather accomplished businesswom-
Paris Hilton became known in the 2000s. She is an heiress of
an.
the Hilton hotel chain and became prominent due to scandalous headlines, the funny “The Simple Life” reality show and
Besides doing her DJ-ing gigs and talks, Paris was also keep-
because of her infamous sex tape.
ing in touch with her fan base through social media and her YouTube channel. The documentary she announced for the
Paris’ public im-
fall
age was that of
as its purpose to
the dumb blonde
bring some new
bimbo.
She
be-
would
have
information
to
came known say-
light,
of
ing “stupid things”,
which her fans did
for clubbing too
not know.
things
hard and for being an avid shop-
The almost two-
per. Soon enough,
hour-long feature
she became the
film
starts
out
poster
with
Paris
an-
girl
for
the 2000s reali-
nouncing that she
ty show era and
would release in-
became
formation that will
known
worldwide for be-
have a strong im-
ing the first person to become “famous for being famous”. She
pact on her image and, hopefully, on others. However, for the
became associated with all things consumer-society, with sel-
first part of the film, we don’t really get a sense of what it could
fies and with a tabloid lifestyle.
be. The first part introduces Paris, which was a little redundant for fans, but it also contains some fun scenes. For example,
Watching back “The Simple Life” and other shows, it can be
there is an archive moment when Paris and Kim are walking -
clearly said that she, behind the scenes, was not the same as
this was before Kim became famous, and a girl takes a picture
her public persona. Later, after 2010 or so, she explained in
of Paris stomping in front of the next diva of reality television.
several interviews that she is a hard worker and that even her
Of course, she could not have known that Kim would become
baby voice is fiction. Surely, she did not completely rebrand
the next Paris, but it’s a fun scene nevertheless. What one can
“I look around and it’s like a cartoon” - Paris Hilton 102 | InCompanytAttirehClub
appreciate is how fast Kim puts her smile back on as they walk into the club. Other interesting scenes feature some fascinating shots of her Asian fans going bananas over seeing Paris. Hilton may be famous, but those people were screaming like it was the Second Coming.
“They were abusive in every possible way.”
In the last part of the film, we find out all about her troubles as a teenager, when she was sent by her parents to a reeduca-
- Paris Hilton
tion center, where she was beaten, mentally abused and kept
But, after we get introduced to the whole Paris Hilton vibe, little
basically abducted with the accord of her parents and taken to
by little, cracks start appearing in the wall, as things are slowly coming to light. In the first phase, between the glitzy images, we get inserts of Paris sharing rather disturbing information. For example, in one scene, she claims to have nightmares all the time (which is explained later) and, in another scene,
in solitary confinement. Paris tells the story of how she was the school. In the film, we’re made to believe that her mother, Kathy (her dad never makes a camera appearance) finds out about the things she went through at the school on camera. Surely, this seems a bit staged. And, even if it was not staged, it is hard to ask
she confesses to
the viewers to be-
not trusting peo-
lieve
ple and to actu-
Hilton
ally being afraid
and
the Provo school,
extremely
given
sad statement. It
daughter to be kid-
wonder what her
napped while they
life must be like,
were present and
given that her en-
did not bat an eye.
tire public image
It’s ridiculous.
is based on being
from a micro-historic point of view, in the sense that for a few years now, the idea of a shy woman who is afraid or timid around men has wholly vanished. Another very intriguing moment in the build-up is the fact that we learn that one of the characters in the film had built an entire paparazzi agency based on her. It really makes one think how much fakeness there is to the whole celebrity industry and how much of everything we see in the media is a PR stunt. As a meta-concept, as viewers, we can’t help but wonder how much of the documentary is a PR stunt. Watching the film, we also get a few moments in which we see Paris being in a relationship. She sets up secret cameras because she is afraid of her new boyfriend and later we get to see a full blown-out fight at an event. The whole thing may be real, but it feels a little staged and reality-show-esque. Who knows? We’ll give it the benefit of the doubt. More and more, we get a sense of what we had been told already time and time again, namely that Paris is not really the character she plays on TV. At one point, she even claims that she herself doesn’t know who she is. And this makes sense: when you are building a character that you are playing many hours each day and when you can’t open up to anyone and barely have any friens, you may have a sense of who you are in reality, but that sense is not actually reflected in the things you do. This is where the film really takes a turn; as many people will identify with this.
she
arranged for their
al and makes one
The statement regarding her fear of men is also interesting
that
and her husband
is deeply person-
a great contribution. Or maybe not such a great contribution?
not
was going on in
powerful
watched by men. A public image to which she, of course, has
Kathy
did
know about what
of men. This is a rather
that
The conclusion to the film is in a way what people know - more or less consciously. Namely that, first of all, these kinds of people always lead incredibly complicated lives, which go layers deep and about which we may never find out the real truth. Secondly, that in many cases, celebrity - and especially being famous for nothing is a soul-crushing process, where one can truly lose themselves. Thirdly, we learn that Paris is an extremely sad person, who most likely dislikes her life to the maximum. Despite this, at the end, she keeps saying that she will still use her old image for her brand. This is a little odd, as, in this case, she would be trying to push an image of something she clearly explained is painful to her. And, unfortunately, given the state of the world today and the nature of mankind, she may even succeed. The documentary is really a powerful movie, regardless of whether you see it as a PR stunt or as a powerful coming out story. It really goes to show how much trouble or emptiness (or both) often lies behind sparkling gates, multi-million-dollar Beverly Hills homes and millions of social media followers. When the world is upside down and one lives in a “monde à l’envers”, everything is on its head: the things that should make one happy make them sad and the other way around. And that, while it may be a way to find light, is no way to find love.
“Everyone says I’m the original influencer. But sometimes I feel like I helped create a monster” - Paris Hilton 103
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AC
W O R L D
News from the
SNOW POLO WORLD CUP
The Snow Polo World Cup takes place every January on the frozen lake of St. Moritz. Because of the outstanding situation the world finds itself in this year and the uncertainties that characterize it, the organizers have decided not to hold the event in 2021. Hopefully, we’ll be back in 2022! Photo: Attire Club
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