InCompany by Attire Club Issue 2 July 2016 by InCompany by Attire Club

attireclub.org

Editorial: A Different Kind of Glamour

eing someone interested in aesthetics, you are always faced with deciding whether something has value and is worth experiencing. Because value creation does not have a ready-to-use formula, some people, especially youngsters or those just starting to dazzle in the world of elegance, have trouble in making up their minds on whether something looks good or not. The men’s fashion world is for many an uncharted territory waiting to be discovered. While it is steadily growing, one can’t help but notice that it is generally growing towards a very conventional goal, with just small branches of different here and there. Most men’s fashion publications, both online and in print tend to showcase a suit-centric view of the world of elegance: the stylish man is a man who has money, who travels business and who wears expensive suits. At InCompany by Attire Club, we love to showcase that style is something that comes from within and that the expression palette is very wide. We’re always on the lookout for things that are not necessarily underground or mainstream, within reach or not, but that are valuable, sophisticated and relevant within themselves. We believe that it is important to learn to appreciate something for what it is. Therefore, once again, we explore the art and science of creating elegance. Merging concepts, playing with ideas and drawing conclusions are the daily practice of the AC elegantologist. The main conclusion we have drawn and that we’d love to share with you is that, to obtain style, one must create his own architecture. Building your own sense of the world will make you feel more empowered and more confident and it will show through your attitude and looks. This season, as you lie back, hike or move from place to place, take a moment and ponder on what makes you unique, what your specific attributes are, what empowers you and how you can play with these elements and valorize them best. The Attire Club team

InCompanytAttirehClub Released by FRAQUOH AND FRANCHOMME Chief Executive Officer Dan Dimitriu Creative Director Iosif Trif Write letters to the editor iosif.trif@attireclub.org Visit our website attireclub.org Contact & Advertising office@attireclub.org Address Leopoldsgasse 4/16 1020 Vienna Austria Telephone 0097 150 12 801 73 Follow us Facebook: facebook.com/attireclub

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Contents Editorial:

A Different Kind of Glamour

There’s nothing like creating your own emotional architecture. u3 In Their Own Words: Co-founders of whytes Thomas Escher & Nadia Botzenhard Can you reinvent the classic t-shirt? Discover our dialogue with two creative entrepreneurs. u 10 Style Guide: How a Shirt Should Fit The shirt is one of the most common menswear pieces. Discover all the things you need to know about choosing a shirt from our style guide. u 14 Fashion World: The Best of Baselworld 2016 Details and precision: See the best watches released in Switzerland this year! u 20 Style Guide: The Guide to Dress Shoe Laces Because it’s hard to go around shoe laces, we’re giving you all the tools you need to make your shoes laces memorable!

In Their Own Words: Fashion Bloggers’ Bed Diaries (Kosta Karakashyan, Diego Leon and Marcus Tan) Three fashion bloggers share their diaries on clothes, feelings and painting the town red. u 35 6

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Culture Circle: Photos of tribes and colorful cultures from around the world From Africa to South America, we’ve curated a collection of amazing photographs of ethnic clothes taken by talented photographers who love exploring visual anthropology. u 48 Style Guide: A Case for Card Cases Got cards to carry? A quality card case might be just the thing for you! In this shopping guide, we teach you all you need to know about card cases. u 56 Current Obsessions: Here’s What We Like This Season Everything that’s unique and fabulous this summer: from a golden soap dispenser to burgundy shoes. u 58 Travel and Culture: B for Bucharest The Romanian capital is a city like no other. Once called “The Small Paris, Bucharest has become a place of high contrasts. u 60 In Their Own Words: Italian Fashion Star Mariano Di Vaio From model to a star with millions of followers on-line, Mariano Di Vaio has done it all. He is sharing his story with us as we lean in on what he has to say. u 68 Fashion World: Cool Chaser Everyting that’s modern and timeless: from suits to colorful camera straps, here’s all you need to have this season! u 74 7

In Their Own Words: Hamid K.’s Moroccan Days Meet Hamid, one of Morocco’s most dapper dudes. u 82 In Their Own Words: Fashion Designer Michelangelo Winklaar Flowy, modern and edgy: These are the words that describe Michelangelo Winklaar’s womenswear designs best. Discover more in our interview! u 88 In Their Own Words: Humans with Superpowers: Researchers and Scientists Deepika Raj and Dr. Jung Ha-Brookshire We carried a high dialogue with two US researchers who analyze the way technology will be so strongly embedded in our clothes in the future, that it will become a new nature. u 92 Fashion Ahead: The Latest in Fashion Technology and Design from Sensoree Sensoree is a concept that creates garments that feature emotive technology. u 98 The Attire Club Mood Diary: Our Moodboard as a Visual Journal Swedish Paintings: From soft lights to impressive buildings, we invite you to discover Sweden through the eyes of its painters. u 100 Agenda: London Collections: Men - Spring Summer 2017 u 110 A picture is worth a thousand words... QR Code Glossary: Discover the Brands Mentioned in This Issue Use your gadget of choice to go right to the brands you've seen in this issue of the diary. u 112 8

InCompanytAttirehClub

The Smart Magazine Attire Club is offering a complete menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s style, fashion and lifestle experience, centered around the AC website. To discover our universe and over 700 articles that will offer you the tools to develop your style, as well as fashion inspiration and cultural insights and to interact with us and be part of our community, visit us online.

attireclub.org See our QR Code Glossary at the end of the magazine

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Co-founders of whytes

Thomas Escher & Nadia Botzenhard whytes is a brand that is currently dedicated to reinventing the classic white t-shirt. After 18 months, in which the two founders gathered feedback from a couple of hundred men, working with 379 international fashion bloggers and tested 22 fabrics and over a dozen patterns, they came up with a one-of-a-kind white t-shirt for fashionable men. The two founders, Thomas Escher & Nadia Botzenhard come from different backgrounds. Thomas is an award-winning Information Architect who’s been developing digital products for over a decade while Nadia is a professional fashion designer who’d been working in New York’s bustling Fashion Industry since 2009 before embarking on the whytes adventure. Their dedication to creating the best t-shirt out there is quite remarkable, so we did an interview with them to find out how they recreated the t-shirt. Read the interview below: What makes the whytes t-shirts different from other t-shirts in terms of design and in technology? Nadia Botzenhard: Our innovative and extraordinarily soft fabric as well as our distinct slim-fit cut are the two most important differentiators for sure. We’ve talked to almost 400 fashion experts around the globe and asked them: “What’s the perfect white t-shirt look like for you?” Most of them gave advice for a slim-fit cut with a sleeve length above average. That’s why our shirts come with mid-length, slim cut sleeves now. Our cut also relies on a black ribbon incorporated

into the collar and shoulder area, which stabilizes the cut and keeps the shirt in shape even after so many washes. Thomas Escher: The perfect shirt doesn’t come to life without the perfect fabric. We’ve had been researching

for almost two years, in order to find a high-quality fabric. We finally decided to go with a European made premium lightweight blend of Combed Cotton and Micromodal. Combed Cotton is a refined version of cotton, where slim brushes are used to pull out any impurities. Micromod-

al is a rather new fiber made from beech wood and spun into ultra-fine yarns to give our t-shirts the perfect fineness and a super-soft feeling. Our luxurious blend is more absorbent than regular fabrics and ensures that our t-shirts don’t shrink or stretch. How did you two meet and decided to start whytes? T.E.: Well, in the summer of 2009, Nadia and I moved from 12

Germany to the city that never sleeps. We both had been offered jobs there and were taking the leap of becoming New Yorkers. While it is very exciting to embrace a new culture and live somewhere abroad, you also have to take care of the little daily things that come with any move: finding new suppliers for your everyday items. That’s where the t-shirts come in. One day I startet googling for a plain white t-shirt but couldn’t find one. At first, I really couldn’t

believe it. So I started digging deeper, chatting up fashion bloggers from around the world, asking them for advice. The more I talked to those guys, the more obvious it became: there was no such thing as a slim fit, well sewn white t-shirt. At least not one that wouldn’t break the bank for the regular guy. When I told Nadia what I found out, it became obvious rather quickly that we should take on the task of solving this problem. Especially with her being

a fashion designer, knowing a thing or two about design, quality fabrics and cuts. After doing so much research, what did you conclude that are the main things men need from their clothes? N.B.: Besides the cut and fabric, there was one huge problem a lot of our community members addressed us with: the size. This might sound odd at first, but more often than not, the proportions of standard size clothes, especially shirts, seem to be off. The reason for this is simple: the width of our torso — the chest and waist measurement to be precise — does not necessarily grow in linear dimensions to our height. Still, most manufacturers develop their sizes as if our body proportions grow linear from size to size. A fact that leads to shirts which may fit in width, but not in length. During a week-long stroll through Munich’s English Garden, we’ve talked to and took measures of over 150 guys. Most of them told us the same story: “I’m usually a “Medium” but mostly have to buy a “Large” if I don’t want to turn my shirt into a belly top.” For us, these statements were evidence enough

to think about additional long version shirts. And so we decided to offer complementary long version shirts. This means, we basically keep the measurements in width and add 1.2 in / 3.5 cm in length. Right now, we are offering 10 sizes with another two in the works and are pretty confident that this tweak will save the belly top problem for generations to come. Why is it important to wear a t-shirt such as the one you are producing? N.B.: If it is important for you to wear our shirt, is something you have to decide individually. But what a lot of our community members keep telling us is this: The simplicity of a perfect white t-shirt is a really bold statement. It underlines the character of the guy wearing it and adds a certain factor of coolness. But: only if the color is as white as the driven snow. A promise, we are able to make, based on our innovative fabric. For men, a white t-shirt is still the most basic fashion piece there is – even almost a century after it was first introduced to modern fashion.

What are the most important things you’ve learned about doing business since you launched whytes? T.E.: Be honest. Ask for advice. Nobody knows everything – and that’s ok. With whytes we are offering a product that’s based on the opinion of 400 fashion-conscious people. Would it be as good, if we’d only put the elements in place that were important to us? Probably not. To me, a successful product designer or entrepreneur has to be able to listen. If you have the talent to really listen to the market, you can start creating a product that solves the problem of your potential community. And down the road, your help hopefully leads to entrepreneurial success. Why? If you just sell something for the sake of making money, you might win a customer today. But if you genuinely help someone, you have a good chance to create a customer for life. AC: Thank you! To discover the whytes t-shirt, go to www.whytes.co

STYLE GUIDE

How a Shirt Should Fit: A Guide

A good button-up shirt is a must-have in any man’s wardrobe. A go-to shirt needs to have a few features that make it the right thing to wear on any occasion: it is simple, functional, versatile and gives any man an instant style upgrade! Even though a cool shirt is something every guy must have, many men still have trouble choosing the right shirts for themselves, and that is why we want to bring some light on the matter. In this guide, we will walk you through all the essential things you should know about shirts and the way they should fit. We will look at the big picture, but also at the details, so that you can be sure you buy a perfect shirt the next time you go shopping! The guide is broken down into sections, in order to help you memorize the information better and make the best of it!

The cut Shirts are generally broken down into three main categories, which you will sometimes find under another terminology, but the concept is basically the same. Traditional fit shirts are usually cut more like a square, or a box if you will, and are rather standard-looking. Regular fit shirts are usually similar to traditional fit shirts, just that the sides are more tapered, making them frame your body better. Slim fit shirts are usually tailored in the chest, waist and arms for a leaner, sharper look. This has nothing to do with being “slim” as opposed to “large”. It simply means that is it very tailored on your silhouette. There are also “extra slim” shirts, which are a more extreme version of slim fit shirts. A good shirt is well-fitting, meaning that is cut in a way that makes it hug your body tightly, but also leave a lot of room for movement. Basically, a proper shirt should cover your body snuggly, but still allow you to move and raise your arms without feeling too tight.

Length and sizes Most dress shirts are made to be tucked in your pants, so the lower part won’t be visible most of the time. It is supposed to be long enough so that it doesn’t come out of your pants when you move, but it should be short enough so that it does not feel like a second pair of pants. If you decide on wearing a more casual shirt and sport it untucked, it should not go lower than the bottom part of your pants’ zipper.

The body

The problem with shirts is that most guys buy shirts that are made in standard sizes, thought to fit the majority of the population. This can be an issue, as if a shirt is tailored to fit a very wide range of men, it means that it does not fit almost anyone perfectly and therefore, some guys should have their shirts tailored!

A good shirt should frame your body but it should not be skin tight. To see if it’s too loose or too tight, try pinching your shirt at any point you wish. You should be able to pin about 1 - 3 in / 2,5- 7,6 cm of fabric from your shirt. If you can pull more, it means that your shirt might be just too big, while anything tighter might make you very uncomfortable when pinching. The armholes should be as high as they can go, but they should not cut into your armpit or cause any discomfort. Also, try to lift your arms in order to test the armholes. You need to be able to make any movement in a shirt! When it comes to the shoulders, the seams of the shoulder should simply hug your shoulders and lay at the corner of your shoulder joint. In other words, the lines represented by the shirt’s stitching you should match the natural lines that define your shoulders and arms.

The waist A lot of shirts are too full around the waist, so make sure that when you sit down you don’t feel any discomfort or that the fabric doesn’t simply add around in a bulky, unpleasant matter. If you can’t find a shirt that meets all these criteria, you can always buy one that is a little bigger and have a tailor change it a little, according to your body. This is a tip that is particularly useful for men who are larger or for teenages: buy a shirt that is a bit larger (in the sleeves, in the body and in length and have it altered by a professional.

The sleeves Proper sleeves should be slim, so that you avoid billowing, but they shouldn’t be skin tight either. Try testing the tightness of a shirt by bending your arm. If you feel like the shirt is going to crack, then you are wearing a too tight of a shirt. In terms of length, the cuff is supposed to end 1 in / 2,5 cm past your wrist or where your wrist meets your palm. Make sure that you can’t pinch more than 1 in / 2,5 cm of fabric near the cuff when your arms are hanging. This extra fabric is useful because it allows you to bend your arms comfortably. If you can’t measure 1 in / 2,5 cm with a ruler or measuring tape, remember that this is approximately the with of two fingers, or in some cases of a single thumb, should you be a man with bulkier fingers. The cuff should be tight enough not to move up and down your hand, but you should still be able to feel comfortable.

The pockets

Dress shirts - No pockets For a dress shirt that you wear on a special occasion or to work, a shirt with no pockets is the right way to go! This is the dressiest option and confers a clean look. We recommend wearing a dress shirt

Casual shirts - One pocket Shirts that have only one pocket are considered way less dressy than those with no pockets and are suited for casual environments such as walking in the park or hitting the beach. Remember that shirts that are supposed to be worn with a vest or with suspenders should have no pockets, even if you are going for a casual look. If they do, your chest might look a little bulky, and not in a good way!

way in what’s regarding your attitude and feelings about yourself! A shirt that fits well needs to fit well on all levels, so checking off these points is essential if you want to not only look great, but also feel good in your dress shirt.

Utiliarian shirts - Two pockets Shirts that have two pockets are usually designed with a utilitarian purpose in mind. For example, police people, air pilots or forrest people such as mountain guides wear this kind of shirts. Two-pocket shirts can be elegant, but only if worn in such a context. Having a well-fitted shirt is very important, regardless of your size or body frame. Also, as an additional tip, if you want your shirts to last longer, you should opt for a good undershirt (covered on the Attire Club website)! Doing so, you will be able to save a lot of money and time!

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When it comes to pockets, it’s highly important to look at their number!

with no pockets anywhere you might go.

Most guys will need to have their shirts modified by a tailor in one way or another, but this is definitely worth it, as good shirt can improve your look by a lot and go a long 19

FASHION WORLD

The Best of Baselworld 2016 The Baselworld Watch and Jewellry Show is an international trade show of the watch and jewelry industry, organized every spring in the city of Basel in Switzerland. The show is a strong tradition and one of the most important events of this type. It comprises around 1500 exhibitors that come to Basel from over 40 countries. The pieces presented during the exhibition, which include all of the best watches and precious gems (hence the high prices) attract over 145 000 participants.

Golden Peafowl by L’Duchen Its natural elegance and its magnificent plumage have earned the peafowl high consideration across every culture for many centuries. In China, it is a symbol of peace, prosperity and beauty; in India, it has for 4,000 years been synonymous with immortality and fertility; while in the West it stands for renewal and resurrection. L’Duchen wished to pay tribute to this legendary animal through a dedicated watch. The hand-painted dial required ten layers of lacquering and painting corresponding to 80 hours of fine workmanship. Creating a model from the Art Collection may take up to three months. This technical mastery enables L’Duchen to offer its customers entirely personalised timepieces clothed in a timeless exterior and meeting the rigorous demands of the

Swiss made label.

Bracelet/strap Calfskin strap, stainless steel folding clasp.

Movement Mechanical automatic, ETA 2836 calibre. Price range $ 1015 - 2030 Functions € 920- 1840 Hours, minutes, sec- CHF 1000 - 1999 onds. Case Stainless steel, 42 mm. Anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 50 metres (5 bar/165 ft). Dial Peafowl motif hand-painted on gold leaf.

Tree of Life by Kerbe- 41-piece limited series danz speaks of mystery, life and hope, making the The horological cre- Tree of Life a complete ations by Kerbedanz and rare work of art. are infused with powerful symbolism. These Movement messages are conveyed Mechanical automatthrough an artistic in- ic, KRB-03 calibre, 35 terpretation of the cases jewels, 28,800 vib/h, and dials on Kerbedanz twin barrels, 120-hour watches. The Tree of power reserve. Life is a jewellery anthem to immortality, Functions symbolised by the tree Hours, minutes. after which it is named. With its deep roots and Case spreading branches, 18K yellow gold, 42 it unites heaven and mm. Case, crown and earth, spirituality and lugs set with 541 emereternity. Framed by a alds (5 cts). Anti-refleccase entirely set with tive sapphire crystals, green emeralds that are front and back. Wathe colour of life itself, a ter-resistant to 50 mehand-sculpted gold tree tres (5 bar/165 ft). adorns the green enamelled dial. This scene is Dial suffused with the light Solid yellow gold with of sparkling diamonds. gold bas-relief sculpture The dainty chatons em- set with 8 diamonds, bedded into the gold and cloisonnĂŠ enamel backenamel are the fruits of ground. the tree, each a token of immortality. Kerbe- Bracelet/strap danz has also decorated Alligator with 18K yelthe original Technotime low gold folding clasp. base calibre with equally meticulous care. This

Price range $ 50797 - 152392 â&#x201A;Ź 46024 - 138074 CHF 50000 - 150000

dial. This remarkable pocket watch is testimony to Longines’ rich history, and is presented as Elegance, along with a limited edition of 20 tradition and perfor- pieces. mance are at home in the pocket thanks to Movement this Lépine watch, a re- Mechanical handminder of the bond that wound, monopusher has united Longines and column-wheel chronoequestrian sports since graph, L790.2 calibre the late 19th century. (ETA A08.L31), 20 This replica of a mod- jewels, 28,800 vib/h, el fitted with Longines’ 48-hour power reserve. first ever chronograph, produced in 1878, will Functions delight modern-day Hours, minutes, secdandies, collectors, and onds, chronograph. horse-racing enthusiasts with its classic exterior Case and mechanical heart. 18k pink gold, 55 mm. Opening the pink gold Anti-reflective sapphire cover, which is en- crystal, engraved cover graved with a jockey and back. and his mount, reveals in all its splendour the Dial hand-wound move- Polished white lacment complete with quer. Small seconds at column-wheel chrono- 6 o’clock. Large central graph mechanism. It chronograph hand. is operated by a single pusher on the winding Price range crown, allowing the $ 20319 - 50797 large, central chrono- € 18400 - 46000 graph hand to sweep the CHF 20000 - 50000 elegant white lacquered The Longines Equestrian Pocket Watch Jockey 1878 by Longines

the elegance and ornamentation of French style, matched by peerless standards of preciLeroy demonstrates the sion. full measure of its expertise with the Auto- Movement matic Tourbillon Reg- Mechanical automatic, ulator. A large flying hand-skeletonised L512 tourbillon freely orbits calibre, chronometer at its summit, unob- certified by BesanĂ§on structed by any bridge. Observatory, 23 jewIts heart is in diamond els, 28,800 vib/h, 22K with an openworked gold oscillating weight, structure. The pure flying tourbillon with technique behind this two balance springs, diregulating organ en- amond escapement, 52sures a degree of preci- hour power reserve. sion that is certified by BesanĂ§on Observatory. Functions The entire movement, Hours and minutes in oscillating weight and a regulator configudial of the Automatic ration, seconds on the Tourbillon Regulator tourbillon. have been delicately skeletonised and cham- Case fered by hand. A me- 18K pink gold, 41 mm. ticulously fashioned Anti-reflective sapphire rosette, with echoes of crystals, front and back. the early 1900s, adorns Water-resistant to 50 the off-centre hour dial, metres (5 bar/165 ft). signalling the regulator configuration of Dial this seven-piece lim- Skeletonised and chamited series. Hand-fin- fered by hand. Blued ishing extends even to steel hands. the heat-blued slender hands. Leroy respects Automatic Tourbillon Regulator by Leroy

Bracelet/strap Double-sided, handstitched black alligator, 18K pink gold buckle. Price range $ >152400 â&#x201A;Ź >138100 CHF >15000050000

The Treasure Royal Stallion by SARCAR In stating the importance of being “large enough to be strong… and small enough to be free”, Carlo Sarzano, the founder of SARCAR Genève in 1948, was to carve out the trail for his brand over the coming years. Dedicated to cultivating superlative craftsmanship, it has made a speciality of prestigious limited editions. This Royal Stallion from The Treasure collection is no exception: the magnificent stallion sculpted in 18K gold and adorning the dial pays tribute to man’s oldest friend, without which the world would not be what it now is. For centuries, the horse has facilitated countless conquests and the economic development of many regions. Today, its natural nobility remains as admirable as ever, whether in the field of sport such as polo, or in magnificent ceremonies. 9-piece limited edition.

Case 18K 5N pink gold, 40 mm. Bezel adorned with 18K gold gemset horseshoes and 18K gold horse head. Gemset crown. Sapphire crystal.

Dial Movement 18K 5N pink gold Mechanical automatic, paved with diamonds. Frédéric Piguet. One-carat solitaire diamond revolving around Functions a pavé dial. 314 brilHours, minutes. liant-cut diamonds – 3.94 cts. 28

Bracelet/strap Black alligator. Gemset 18K pink gold folding clasp. Price range $ >152400 € >138100 CHF >150000- 5

Reference 1741 Platinum by Urban JĂźrgensen Urban JĂźrgensen is introducing a new model, Reference 1741 Platinum with perpetual calendar, leap year indicator and moon phases. This timepieces showcases an almost forgotten traditional technique called grenage admirably revived by the brand. It is hand-crafted, delicate and time-consuming, but the final result justifies the difficulties in creating such intricate dial finishing. The hand-made grenage dial is fitted with the white gold applied Arabic numerals. The moon disc involves more than 20 different operations required to create a unique miniature marvel of classic workmanship such as is rarely found in timepieces nowadays. The reference 1741 caliber is based on the P4 inhouse movement.

Movement Hand-wound mechanical, UJS.P4 calibre, 24 jewels, 21,600 vib/h, twin barrels and Swiss lever escapement, 60hour power reserve.

Case Platinum, 41 mm. Domed sapphire crystal. Sapphire back. Water resistance to 30 metres (3 ATM/100 ft).

yellow gold.

Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, moon phases and perpetual calendar (day, date, month, leap year).

Dial Solid silver with hand finished grenage, white gold 18K applied Arabic numerals. Hand made in thermally blued steel and 18K

Price range $ 25400 - 45700 â&#x201A;Ź 23000 - 41500 CHF 25000 - 45000

Bracelet/strap Black, brown or blue alligator with platinum buckle, optional folding clasp.

See more Baselworld watches on our website at attireclub.org

STYLE GUIDE

The Guide to Dress Shoe Laces Shoe laces, shoe strings in American English or bootlaces in UK English are not only a system that helps you fasten and secure your footwear. They can however, also be a style statement. Shoe laces come in many shapes, styles and sizes and can style up not only your shoes, but your whole look. If you know a few things about shoe laces, you can make wiser decisions when it comes to them and have a great sartorial experience. Here’s what you should know…

Style 1. The most common type of shoe laces are flat shoe laces. These usually come with casual shoes, sports shoes and everyday models. This type usually stays tied for a longer period of time, which is why it is used for shoes that are worn when you are doing a lot of physical activity. They are also more comfortable against the top of the foot. 2. For dressier surroundings, round shoe laces are the recommended type. This type is definitely not as common and goes best with formal outfits. 3. No-tie shoe laces are a special kind of laces that basically turn laced shoes into slip-on shoes. They are usually popular among children who can’t tie their own laces. They are casual and generally decorative and used by funky adults or those who prefer slip-on shoes. They usually divide into elastic and non-elastic. The elastic ones hold their tightly-curled form on the unused portion of the shoelace. This means that that it does not back through the eyelets when the ends are pulled through the highest. Non-elastic, locking shoelaces however, have plastic or metal clasps. These can be pulled tightly and locked into place right near the highest eyelets. This way, the shoelaces will be kept tightly in place.

Laces length A lot of men have an issue with establishing the right length of their shoe laces. And this is rightly so, as there is no exact rule when it comes to the length of the shoe laces. Of course, children’s shoes will need shorter laces than adult’s shoes, but there are many other factors you need to take into consideration. The eyelets of your shoe are a strong indicator of how long your shoe laces must be. For example, 4 eyelets (on both sides) on a standard size shoe would require a 28 in / 70 cm shoe lace, 6 eyelets match a 35 in / 88 string, 10 eyelets are best for 39 in / 99 cm and 20 eyelets need a 59 in / 150 cm shoe string. Of course, 20 eyelets is something you would normally meet in a boot. These numbers though are not exact if you wish to do any other shoe lace tying technique than the classic criss-cross lacing. For more complex and complicated shoe lacing techniques, you will need longer shoe laces. To see more techniques of tying your laces, go to attireclub.org.

Shoe size To determine whether a pair of laces is too long or too short, you should check whether the laces are too long after you tied them or if you can’t comfortably tie them. By design, bigger shoes will need longer laces, while smaller shoes will need shorter ones. The number of shoe holes is the real indicator of how long you need your laces to be and many brands offer charts that give you insight into how long your laces should be, according to the design of their shoes.

Color The most common colors shoe laces have are black or brown since they are neutral and neutrals go with anything. Occasionally, you will see brown shoes with a matching brown pair of laces, and sometimes they can even be tan or beige for a soft, natural color combination. 31

However, black, brown and white shoes go with any color of laces: red, yellow, purple, orange, blue, indigo, green and every other neutral: black, white, tan, ivory, khaki, beige, gray, dark blue, etc. It is customary for younger people who wear athletic shoes to wear more colorful laces, but we certainly don’t think that they are the sole market for that. We definitely recommend that you wear colorful laces with any type of shoes. Contrast colors, for example look great (e.g. yellow laces on black shoes). Wearing colorful laces will transform your laces into a fashion statement and won’t go unnoticed.

Aglets Aglets are the elements that hold the laces together. They represent those hard tips at the end of the strings that allow the wearer to quickly put the string through the eyelets. They are very practical and usually made out of plastic or metal. Normally they are simple, but sometimes you will find more decorative ones made out of copper or brass.

Additional information It is really necessary to treat your shoe laces as a fashion accessory. Choosing the color and type you are going to wear is a mark of your personality. This is why we recommend that you also wash your shoe laces and take them out when you polish your shoes. Doing so, you will get a fresh look and the image of your shoes will always be complete. These are the basic things you need to look for when buying shoe laces whether it’s on or offline. Even though they are a small accessory, shoe laces are always necessary, so why not make use of them to the fullest? 32

h FASHION BLOGGERSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

BED DIARIES

Writer, fashion blogger and dancer

Kosta Karakashyan

Find Kosta online at coolgearcavalier.com

March 2nd All day in my room. When lounging around I like wearing relaxed soft cotton lounge pants or shorts and a tank top. Since itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s still chilly outside, a loose cardigan is in order.

March 7th Spending the whole week running between dance classes. Need to wear something easy to move in and easily washable. Sweatpants every day with statement sneakers and a big dark coat. That way I can switch the sweats and t-shirt every day. Also got a chance to take a look at the Old Navy Summer 2016 collection preview. Inspired by all the classic Americana looks and the easy summer colors. Ready for warm weather and swim shorts.

March 10th Time to bust out the denim jacket! I like this one with the paint splatters and the sleeves rolled up. Note to self: wait a few days before wearing anything so light. The afternoon was too cold to wear it over a tank top for dance class yetâ&#x20AC;Ś

March 12th Birthday party for a friend tonight! Cotton blazer and slob t-shirt over jeans and boots. Good casual and smart mix. I always like strong accessories like a cuff bracelet or a lapel pin for a fun evening l o o k . You don’t wanna be the overdressed guy at the bar, but still stand out…

March 16th On holiday in Cuba… speedos, sunscreen and sunglasses is the uniform. Might throw on a t-shirt or shorts for lunch and a dress shirt for dinner, but the beach or the pool is where you’ll find me working on my tan. Varadero is a dream.

March 18th

March 30th

Another day staying in all day in sweats and ordering room service. When you’re not going out all day make sure to keep your feet warm. That’s the easiest way to catch a cold.

Talking about sportswear as fashion on the blog today. Sweatshirt over a cotton t-shirt and joggers. Sportswear outfits look the cleanest when they are done in neutral colors.

April 9th

April 17th

Toronto bound once again. Wanted to go for a tonal allblue look today blending deep navy with washed out denim and a more hard-to-define blue. This is all about playing with the silhouette and the textures while keeping the hues constant.

All black today rocking my new Uri Minkoff backpack. It’s a great fashion statement when you want to carry a few notebooks or a light laptop. I finished the look with classic aviators by Ray-Ban and a colorful Maison Kitsune pin.

April 21st

April 24th

All decked out for the Miami Vibe ballroom dance competition. After deliberations, I went for the no-tie look but still kept the shirt buttoned up.

Night out in Miami sporting a mesh/satin t-shirt, black moto jean and funky Adidas Y-3 sandals. I’m not usually the person that will wear a dress shirt to the club as I like dancing and feeling free.

April 28th Today is the smart/casual mix that I love wearing. It’s all about a sleek blazer over a simple t-shirt with some fun accessories. Here I went for the black moto jeans again and a classic pair of Ray-Bans. 39

Style blogger and Social Media Consultant

Diego Leon

Find Diego online at dandyinthebronx.com

March 7th I went to an all-boys Catholic high school. Back then, I didn’t try care about the style or fit when it came to my uniform. But I found my blazer this morning and it brought back some good memories. It was navy blue, with ornate gold buttons. It has an awesome insignia of the school on the front pocket. Sadly, I discovered I was the size of 3 Diego back then and there was no way tailoring could fix this. It was that big! I had 42

a shoot today so I went for a Preppy school boy look to try to get that feeling back. Had a tie sent to me from CottonBrew which completed the set. I like to add a little bit of fandom to my outfits as well, so to complement the yellow stripes of the tie, I added a yellow lapel pin from the game Pokemon.

March 9th I’m always trying to fit photo shoots during my day job. Today I had the chance to shoot with fellow Bronxite, @just2lls. She really was inspired by this wall and insisted we shot there. This was the warmest day we had in a while so I rocked white pants and no show socks for this shoot. I love wearing white pants but it’s so dangerous. I knew because of the location, it was going to be risky. But the weather was perfect for it.

March 12th

March 14th

March 16th

Daniel Wellintong had an awesome brunch for bloggers. It was at ACE Hotel in NYC and it also included a photoshoot. It’s always great to network with others and see what projects everyone is working on. Gonna have bubblys all day! I think the theme was going to be monochrome for the shoot, so I went with an all-black suit with no tie.

Wearing my March Sprezzabox accessories today for a shoot at Goorin bros tonight. Sucks that it’s raining! Wearing galoshes but I feel it’s too tight for my double monks. After work I headed over to Goorin Bros in Noloita to learn about hats and find the right hat for me. One of the merchants there, Steven, walked me through the hat selection process. I learned about fit, style, and even hat accessories. At the end, I got myself a Panama hat, perfect for the upcoming warmer season.

Shooting for my new socks from sock cardigan this afternoon. Working with Nick again to make some awesome content. I had a gig with New York Times as well so I included a newspaper for the shoot as well. I wanted the outfit too look business worthy but with a hint of character.

March 17th

There was a blogger meet up hosted by obviouslysocial social this morning at 8:30am. Totally worth it for content. Met other fashion bloggers and food bloggers and did selfies all morning. Later in the day, I was off to Raleigh, North Carolina for a wedding. 43

Find Marcus online at martan.com.au

Fashion Blogger April 1st

Marcus Tan

I style shoots on occasion. This shoot in particular was my first menswear shoot. It was 3 hours out of Melbourne but it was all worth it. I can remember I was working crazy hours whilst prepping for this shoot. I had curated looks to suit the beach setting. It paid off in the end. It is nice to be able to translate my aesthetic onto another other than just being my own canvas.

April 2nd

A benefit of having the blog is being able to be a part of awareness campaigns. Being able to contribute worthwhile charities is a great opportunity. I chose to work with the McGrath Foundation for their Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Using my influence to spread awareness is something which is so important to do, giving back to society for a greater purpose.

April 6th

April 9th

April 12th

Short shorts and trainers. Even my workout gear needs to be curated. Classic and black. I never had work out gear till recently. I personally enjoy to exercise in the comfort of my own apartment. I don’t really enjoy the idea of sweating around others. Though to break my habit I took to the beach for a spot of morning yoga.

I enjoy the dress up before a shoot. I am that type of guy who tries everything on and then with shoes, hair, bag, etc… Sometimes it comes to me, I can visualise the silhouette or vibe I want to have whilst other times it is trial and error. Since style is so subjective on each person and then with mood I always make sure to have an open mind.

April 8th Cocktails and conversations. I went to the launch of Appleton Estate Rum. Definitely a nice way to wind down after the long work week. I can remember when I first started blogging and I had a calendar full of events whether it be an opening or product launch I would pack a change of clothes after work and then bolt to the event. It was such an interesting thought that through blogging I was invited to these events.

I altered some pieces to make a full mesh look. Not for the faint hearted. Having experimented in my youth with colours, prints and textures I now take what I enjoy and refine that. I had a big mesh phase a few years back around the sportsluxe fad. Unfortunately for me I still enjoy mesh, but it isn’t readily available anymore. So I make do. Buying pieces that I can manipulate my ideal silhouette. That is style in itself, and mine in particular.

April 15th

April 17th

Recently I took up baking… I also play with my food. It is the greatest escape from everything. And to be honest the only time when I’m not in front of a screen and I tap into my creativity. I don’t have as much time to unwind or screen-detox but cooking helps to even me out.

I have recently found my obsession with Grey. Casual, comfortable, yet stylish with the right combinations. Ironically I never really saw value in gray. I always considered it too wishy washy. Being in the middle of black and white. I chose to pick either or. But there is something I see when I piece a grey outfit. Some sort of clear but functional aesthetic. I may not enjoy the shades of grey in life, however with clothes I’m all for it.

April 18th

April 21st

April 30th

When I am not at work I am all about comfort. Soft cottons and jerseys. Being in a suit is rather constricting and ‘stiff ’, so I like to switch it up so that I can just relax. I always aim for a contrast. Either loose pants and a more fitted shirt or vice versa. You don’t want to look like a complete slob or a ken doll 24/7.

There is nothing better than wondering around a museum in the early hours of the morning. Lines don’t exist and there is no one to judge you as you stand still absorbing the aesthetics as time roles over. I like to wander around an absorb sights and sounds. I believe that it helps foster my being and my creativity.

I love to relax at the beach. Watching the sunset as the waves crash against the rocks. I like to do it alone. A cap and some ripped jeans, simple basics. I can spend hours walking on the beach as the sun sets. Shoes off whilst my feet get lost in the sand. Listening to the waves is one of the most therapeutic sounds.

attireclub.org

ulture ircle

Clothes define the confluence point of a personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s individual and social identity, working with values, rituals, heroes and symbols in order to create a physical manifestation of an internal experience. Contemplating the different ethnic (and modern ethnic) clothes of cultures from around the world, we must notice that on numerous occasions, clothing is more of a consequence of necessities and cultural norms, as well as of beliefs, lifestyle and continued influences.

Sergio Carbajo, Suri Tribe, Ethiopia

Walter Callens, The Masai tribe: This warrior tribe of nomadic pastoralists are descendants of Nilotic and Cushitic people originally from north of Lake Turkana over 10 centuries ago. Notice the watch on the guy on the rightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hand.

Walter Callens, Kenia, El Molo village at Lake Turkana

Erwin B, Hamar woman between cows during bull jumping ceremony, Ethiopia, 2010

Jon Bengoetxea, Portrait of a woman in Morocco, 2015 53

Christopher Nowak, Fire dancing man in French Polynesia

Julia Zabrodzka, En el mercado de artesania San Cristรณbal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico Max Levay, Maracatu Rural (Casa da Rabeca), Brasil

attireclub.org

STYLE GUIDE

A Case for Card Cases Card cases are a great alternative to wallets, especially for people who prefer carrying their money on cards rather than cash. For those who don’t like bulky wallets – or any type of wallets for that matter, card cases are the go-to item when it comes to keeping their cards safe and stylish, as they are minimal and light, but practical and very versatile at the same time. Card cases have not appeared too long ago, as they became popular only with the spread of bank cards and other types of cards such as building access cards, skiing chairlift cards and so on. Before this democratization of technology, most people only used wallets and regular keys to pay for things and access various buildings. In this guide, we take a look at the reasons why you should own at least one card case and make sure your cards have a great home.

Comfort Today, more and more people make payments by using cards. The reason for this is mostly comfort-related. Making payments with a bank card is easy, it does not require counting money or calculating change, it does not tear and, if you lose it, you can automatically block it. Card cases are just the right thing to use if you don’t want to carry around a wallet or even a money clip. Card cases are can be carried in a pocket or in some cases, even in the sleeve of your phone, they are sleek, elegant and appropriate for everyone: men, women, younger people, older people, blue collar or white collar, everyone can enjoy the benefits of a great card case.

Style Since cards are so frequently used, they need a good home that should be combination between practicality and style. From a style perspective, card cases come in a series of materials, colors and styles that fit any taste, preference and budget. Your card case should be, as any other accessory, an extension of yourself and an expression of your personality. They should also be versatile and practical. A versatile card case is a case that usually comes in a neutral color, such as brown, black, 56

dark blue or white and that is made from leather, nylon or other similar strong materials. You will often find card cases that feature very bright colors. Remember that, even though we encourage you to buy colorful things, some colors are to be reserved for very casual settings, such as the gym or an amusement park evening. Bright pink, neon green and fuchsia are shades that work best with casual settings, while deeper colors such as silver, purple, burgundy and emerald are more suited for dressier occasions or academic environments. As we already said, card cases have the advantage of being very light and very compact. We are aware that, if you have a wallet, it does not necessarily mean that it is heavy and extremely bulky, but sometimes, a wallet can change the look of your pants, which is why you might want to switch to card cases. Men who wear tight pants especially, will notice that their wallets can be extremely visible in their pockets, which is not the most subtle and aesthetic thing in the world. Sometimes, men can even get square marks on their pants because of their wallets which will change the shape of your pants completely. A card case takes care of all these problems immediately. Moreover, a card case is a symbol of a man who is ordered, who thinks clearly and who can keep track of his money without having to physically see it. And, yes, we know that, de-

spite all these things, sometimes you still need physical money to go around. This is why some card cases, such as the ones from Ulterior Motive for example, feature more slots that allow you to store some bills. And, if you are working with $100 bills, how many do you really need?

your finances to yourself, not showing everyone how much money you actually carry at a time with you.

Cleanness Many people are reticent when it comes to card cases because they feel that they will not have any room for other things they might usually carry around with them. What we can say is that if you have other essentials you need to carry around, you can put those in a separate small bag or a larger wallet. Card cases are great for everyday use, but they are also perfect for situations where carrying something else can get inconvenient. For example, when you are traveling or participating in a crowd event, do you really need your everyday carry with you? There is nothing wrong with having a wallet and / or a card case at the same time. Sometimes, you can leave your wallet or small bag behind and just walk around with no bulk in your pockets.

Using a card case can change the way in which you handle your money, it can make you more organized and will help you keep better track of your spendings. Moreover, as we have seen, a card case can make you look more stylish as well. Card cases can also make great gifts, as they are both useful and elegant and most cases can be easily engraved with symbols, letters or numbers that will give them a personal touch.

To conclude, we can say that a card case is not only a stylish option to keep your cards in, but also a great way to style up your overall look. Besides the style and the comfort brought by a card case, you will also benefit from keeping 57

Current Obsessions Here’s what we like this season!

The Martin Wholecut - Oxblood by PAUL EVANS $399 / €354,6 paulevansny.com

Aqua Facets comb by GO-COMB $13.99 / €12,43 go-comb.com

Apple Gold soap dispenser by IVAR $6771,3 / €6017,1 ivarlondon.com

Custom Leather Duffle Bag by WASKERD $900 / €800 waskerd.com

Mr. A Smile boxer by HAPPY SOCKS $28 / €25 happysocks.com

Stag Ring by KIE $69.99 / €62,19 shopkie.com

TRAVEL AND CULTURE: FASHION ALPHABET Bucharest is the Romanian capital and, with a population of around 2 000 000, the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest cities. One of the densest cities in South-Eastern Europe, Bucharest is a highly contrasting place in terms of anything and everything you can imagine. Take a look at some fascinating facts about the city that currently holds sixth place on the list of the largest cities in the European Union by population within city limits, after London, Berlin, Madrid, Rome, and Paris.

for ucharest A girl watching the University of Artsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; annual fashion show

The Romanian Aethenaeum

A Gucci store next to communist buildings

Jewelry from the Romanian Museum of History

History of Bucharest THE NAME BUCUREȘTI has an uncertain origin. Tradition and legends connect the founding of Bucharest with the name of a man named Bucur, whose identity is unknown. In some legends, he’s a shepherd, in others a prince, in others an outlaw and in others a fisherman or a hunter. The word definitely relates to the Romanian bucurie, which means happiness or joy

THE FIRST HISTORICAL MENTION of Bucharest was as the “Citadel of București” in 1459, when it became the residence of the famous Wallachian prince Vlad III the Impaler, who inspired the allknown character of Dracula.

BUCHAREST became the capital of modern Romania in 1862

BETWEEN AROUND 1920 AND 1944, Bucharest was known as “Small Paris”, as it had a strong resemble to the French capital, with lots of beautiful buildings and flair. HOWEVER, DURING THE 40 YEARS of communism Romania saw beginning with the 50s, the city’s landscape changed a lot, due to Ceaușescu’s urbanization plans. Today, Bucharest is a chaotic mix of both good and bad architecture. IN THE LATE 1980, The People’s House was built in Bucharest (initially called House of the Republic). Measuring 885.8 ft /270 m in length,

787.4 ft / 240 m in width, 282.1 ft / 86 m in height and 301.8 ft / 92 m underground, it is the second-largest administrative building on Earth, after the Pentagon. The Palace of the Parliament (as it is officially called), has 20 floors (8 of them are underground), 100 rooms and a total size of 3 552 090.44 sq2 / 330.000 m². THE “GEORGE ENESCU” FESTIVAL, which celebrates classical music is held annually in the Romanian capital. The festival and concert, held at the Romanian Athenaeum is named after Romanian composer George Enescu, who has had and continues to have a very big impact on the international music scene.

Bucharest Fashion Week rehersals

Fashion in Bucharest

BUCHAREST FASHION WEEK is an event that is held twice a year (once in the spring and once in the winter). The event features shows from both Romanian and international designers during its run. It is generally held outside the city, in a village near the Henri Coandă airport.

ONE CAN STUDY FASHION design at the Bucharest University of Arts. Their programs, divided into three years for a bachelor’s degree

WHILE MOST PEOPLE in Bucharest buy their clothes from malls and markets, you can still find many boutiques and stores that feature handmade clothes and accessories on the streets of the Romanian capital.

you’ll find some luxury stores from brands such as Gucci, Burberry or Armani, these labels don’t mean much to most people in Bucharest.

LABEL CLOTHING is considered a medium luxury by many people in Eastern Europe, including Bucharest. Brands such as H&M or Nike are considered to be quite high-end and are rather expensive in relation to people’s incomes.

YRead this article with a song!

MOST OF THE DESIGNS and designers don’t have a strong echo in the Bucharest society (you need to be a fashion insider to know about them) and the event are barely covered in the local and national media.

and two years for a master’s degree focus mostly on fashion as art and less on its commercial aspect.

THE LUXURY MARKET is very small and, even though 65

Scenography and theater costume students showcase their work

A woman in a semi-traditional outfit at a fair downtown Bucharest

Lifestyle in Bucharest

PEOPLE IN ROMANIA love their traditions and always put together fairs and public events where people dress in traditional costumes (or derivates of these) and play popular music (or, again, adapted versions of popular music).

CLUBS and bars are highly popular among people who live or travel to Bucharest. The â&#x20AC;&#x153;Party Capital of Eastern Europeâ&#x20AC;? has clubs that are open until the last customer leaves early in the morning.

CONTRASTING is probably the word that describes Bucharest best: the city is a mix of modern and old in every aspect from architecture (old communist buildings next to futuristic ones) to mentalities. Sometimes news such as children being bitten by a pack of dogs in front of a luxury restaurnat make it seem that Bucharest is a surreal place. PEOPLE IN BUCHAREST and Romania in general take much importance in the way they look and present them-

selves to the world. Here, people put a lot of money, time and effort into taking care of their clothes, their grooming and their overall appearance. Despite this, shopping areas for clothing, accessories and grooming products in Bucharest are very small compared to other European cities and sales for these items is extremely low. Photos: Attire Club

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Italian fashion star

YRead this article with a song!

Mariano Di Vaio

Mariano Di Vaio is an Italian model who has worked with some of the biggest brands of the fashion world. In March 2012, he started his blog, mdvstyle.com, which soon became an internet sensation. In just 18 months, Mariano was one of the most influent fashion bloggers worldwide. The influencer has millions of followers on his social media pages and is the poster boy of the â&#x20AC;&#x153;It Boyâ&#x20AC;?. We invited Mariano to write an exclusive essay for InCompany by Attire Club, where he discusses his career, Italy and, of course, fashion. 68

On being a model

became a model when I was eighteen. I simply left my home and I thought “OK, I’m starting out all over! Yeah!” I moved to London for one year and then I went to New York to study at the New York Film Academy. I wanted to be an actor but, at the same time, big brands asked me to model, so I thought that this could become a great career, especially because of my passion for the fashion world. Talking about this world, I can say that it is both wonderful and hard: you’re always on a tight schedule, and the system is full of fierce competition. At the same time, though, it’s also a shiny world, full of beautiful things to do, like shooting in fantastic locations and modeling during incredible Fashion Weeks.

On both sides of the fashion world

ow I feel far away from the time I was a model, because now, as an influencer and entrepreneur, I watch the show from the front row. It’s a weird feeling, looking back at the time when I was on the catwalk and thinking that now I’m invited to the same shows, but in another position. Also, watching the catwalk, I see how it’s changed over time. There was a time where the female and male modeling worlds were very different, especially because there was a stereotypical beauty, but now the times have changed, and every brand wants to communicate different things. The beauty of the models, female and male, depends on the concept of the collection. There isn’t a singular beauty ideal, but different kinds of beauty standards. It’s great because before this time, the male modeling world was limited, while the female’s one was globally well-known. Now, however, men’s fashion has the same importance as women’s fashion.

On becoming a blogger

fter my experience as a model and after studying at the NYFA, I started my career as a blogger, because I saw how in New York there were a lot of guys taking photos of each other and some were even posting images on the web, even though they rarely were professionals. They’d say: “Look how weird or strange or funny that guy is there.” But there was no one who would try to display veritable style. Or who tried to give some advice. So I created a blog to give the right fashion tips to guys in New York, and so, my dream job started. You can read all about my experience in my new book, “My Dream Job”, which is coming out now!

On passion and family

y passion for fashion started from my father’s wardrobe. I guess I can say I was inspired by a gentlemen’s closet: my father’s wardrobe was full of double breasted jackets, and I started to wear them at home. I did it out of curiosity but, when I got confident with fashion and clothes, I really enjoyed it. And so, a passion was born, the passion for Italian style; and, what’s remarkable is that this passion turned into a job after my experience in New York, where I learned to mix the classic Italian allure and the street-style attitude. The MDV Style website was born there.

he true “italianità” talks about craftsmanship and quality, innovation and class. The MDV brand was in fact born with these cornerstones: an Italian concept that proposes to the world products made in Italy, from Italian shoes to a collection of leather accessories made by hand in Italy. I lived in several cities and countries, but this style is part of me,

even if I love to take inspirations from the places I visit and incorporate it into my outfits.

On finding your inspiration

nspiration is something I just can’t describe in words. It’s everywhere: from the new design of a skyscraper to the beautiful downward motion of a leaf that falls from a tree. I love to mix fabrics and colors, lines and cuts, and I think that dressing doesn’t mean covering, but creating something new in order to communicate something different.

n order to find inspiration everywhere, it’s important to be curious, it’s important to have hobbies. I love to practice sports, from surf to motocross. I think that’s crucial, and without my hobbies,

I wouldn’t be here. Creating a new style is something hard, and you need to be inspired to do that. After all, the way you dress reflect the way you feel. This is the key to develop new styles. All in all, I need to be inspired to create an interesting outfit, and my recommendation is this: if you want to be an inspiration, be inspired, if you want to be interesting, be curious. This is the one and only way to create something new.

Discover Mariano’s blog at mdvstyle.com 72

FASHION WORLD

COOL CHASER From striking sweaters to camera straps, here’s a bouquet of things we can’t help but love this season!

Men’s shorts by Feltraiger feltraiger.com

Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s suit by Cake for Monarchs cakeformonarchs.com

Clothes by Jacob Holston jacobholston.com

Camera straps by InTePro etsy.com/shop/InTePro Photos: Attire Club

Sweaters by Breaking Rocks Clothing breakingrocksclothing.com

Find Hamid online at hamidkhayai.blogspot.com

SECRETS OF FASHION

Hamid K.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Moroccan ays D Attire Club / Hamid Khouyi

Hamid Khouyi is a Morccan fashion blogger. He is a brave man who, through his clothes not only expresses his style, but also breaks cultural boundaries and makes hard political statements. We invited him to tell his story, not to criticize anyone, but to explain the impact clothes have in his life and the hardships that come with being a dapper guy. 83

A time of colorful innocence My name’s Hamid Khouyi, I’m a 25 year old fashion blogger and travel writer from Morocco. I finished my studies in Sociology and soon after, I lost most of my interest in it. At the same time, I’ve discovered other interests, which have since grown a lot. Currently, I’m thinking about applying to some schools in Germany to pursue what I really want: photography, fashion and travel writing. I think these are some of the very few things I’m not too bad at. My interest in fashion started when I was younger. When I was little, I saw a lot of colors around me and old Moroccan dresses. I guess I was always attracted to things that people wouldn’t usually look at. I was always drawn to vintage and old clothing – I found these very different and they encouraged me to use them and to develop my unique style. Soon after, I used to browse for days or weeks in the Internet and watch fashion shows. That’s where I picked a lot of ideas.

Guess the Jew Fashion in the Sahara or in Morocco in general is sometimes like a crime – here, people wear only traditional or generally conservative outfits. There are just a few people who actually dare to dress differently than the rest. People People usually wear what is available and not dirty at the moment. Sometimes, they wear all in djellacolors in an outfit and sometimes they wear a djellaba, which is a traditional men’s dress, which bas. Photo by they wear with sneakers or jeans. Csörföly D. (cropped)

Traditional Moroccan clothes are sometimes very colorful – they’re nice for good weather and occasions, but don’t go as casual outfits. Wearing them as such kills the beauty of those traditional clothing. I am one who enjoys dressing up differently and more modern. Sometimes, when you dress like me, you get a lot of funny comments from people on the street. People who dress in the slightest differently or special, often face comments, which are intended as insults. I often hear people say “Oh, you think that you are from Europe or America?”, or they think I’m gay 85

or Jewish, which here is frowned upon, to say the least…

My own Morocco

I did have a bunch of strange experiences, especially in 2008. I had long hair and I was always fighting with people for this reason. To be honest, because I had this style in high school, I had to face a lot of stress. For example I had such a bad year with my Islamic education teacher: she was always rude to me and I had to repeat the year just because of the way I dressed. More than that, the high school principal stopped me once and said “My son, we are Arabs, we don’t wear that. Please change your style or stay home – we don’t need students like that, who wear damaged jeans have different hairstyles…” But I did it my way…

My favorite colors are blue, white, dark red, gray and black – I think these are essentials. They go well in the Moroccan Saharan atmosphere. The colors I love are natural colors that you can see everywhere here in the Moroccan landscape. I travelled all over Morocco and still love to go back to some beautiful cities like Chefchaouen City and Merzouga because I feel these cities were made for my style. The food here is really traditional as well. Our main meals consist of tajine and couscous – it looks and tastes great. During my travels, I enjoy stopping in coffee shops, not only because I am addicted to coffee, but also because I like to look at people and smell that great smell of food, especially in Marrakech city. I love watching life there and what people are wearing: it’s always great for inspiration! In Casablanca I had my first professional shooting for a French fashion contest, which is why that place means a lot to me as well.

The family heritage Back then, my style was very vintage. I was, and, to be honest, still am addicted to the old market, where you can find the old trends. My dad also collected old and vintage clothes and things like radios and other home essentials. He started out in life from the bottom and couldn’t afford to wear anything new: he only wore the pieces other people wouldn’t wear anymore. He is still passionate about vintage clothing and old things. Many of his clothes mean a lot to me too and I just wish I could have them in my size… My dad did speak to me about my clothes, but from a positive point of view. I think that maybe he felt that I am a little him or maybe he watched me being another version of his young self – enjoying his youth again by watching me wear clothes in my style. He is such a great and simple man and his attitude makes me take it easy and be humble. It’s due to him why I became so attracted to the fashion of the 70s. However, I put my twist on this style by incorporating elements I saw in my travels. And my new home right near the beach. This tumultuous atmosphere taught me to appreciate the way everyone dresses and to understand that style is what you make it. I always love it when people express themselves through details and use elements such as colors to make a look their own. To discover things, you need to be all you can be and pay attention to what you are seeing. 86

Photo by Femke Schook, Makeup/Hair: Florence Claire Menke, Model: Stephanie Yoyo.

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Fashion designer

Michelangelo Winklaar Michelangelo Winklaar is a fashion designer who is working to push the boundaries of fashion by expressing concepts through his clothes. His universe is expressed through particular In in our Q&A with the Dutch designer, he discusses his vision, his brand and the fashion world. What are the main shapes, colors and fabrics you work with and, more importantly, why? First of all thank you for the InCompany by Attire Club feature invitation. At the ‘Michelangelo Winklaar’ label, we do our best to explore our vision with our clients, and by sharing it with you, we are reaching our audience, which is very important for us. The recognizable shape of our designs is the female silhouette; we want the client to feel beautiful on her special occasions, because our clients deserve nothing less. As for the colors, they usually are natural and based on flowers, earth tones and forest shades. We work with natural and traditional fabrics such as silk, linen, bamboo, alpaca and cashmere. Do you consider yourself a conceptual designer, a practical one or do you balance both worlds? I am definitely a philosophical designer. I would rather create a design based on ideas like color pallets, history and culture, having as a starting point the question “what if?” “What if violet is the new black?” This process leads to an answer which leads to another question and so on, as my creative mind continues to work. Next to designing; the process of researching is a lot of fun and also highly educational. As a human being you cannot learn enough. After I take in many concepts, I translate my vision into a wearable item, which allows my client to express herself in her environment.

Photo by Floris Naber

Which five words would describe your brand and which five words would describe you? Michelangelo Winklaar designs stand for; intelligence, elegance, luxury, future and past. I would describe myself today as curious, passionate, creative, social and open-minded. If you were a character in a movie, who would you be? That would be me, myself, as my life is as real as a reality-movie can get. Edna Mode, the fantastic designer from the Disney Pixar movie “The Incredibles” is an animation character which seems to have been made after me. Who is the woman you design for? She is a woman who prefers high-quality fabrics, clothing that is manufactured in Europe and likes to stand out in a crowd.

Photo by Stef Lohstroh, Makeup/ Hair: Florence Claire Menke, Models: Lais, Michelle, Sippora J.

What are the major changes that are happening in the fashion world at the moment? How are you incorporating them in your work? Fashion for me is the common state of mind in society. As you see, fashion today goes fast, and it changes every season. I decided a few years ago that I will not be joining this fast fashion experience. Instead, I take the time, as long it takes, to make valuable collections. Because as a client, you should always buy a timeless design that will last, and maybe leave it to the next generation. To discover Michelangelo’s designs and more on his brand, go to michelangelowinklaar.nl

YRead this article with a song!

Photo: Feeric Fashion Week Romania (from Michelangelo’s spring-summer 2016 runway show)

Photo by Stef Lohstroh, Makeup/Hair: Florence Claire Menke, Model: Sippora J.

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Humans with Superpowers 92

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Researchers and scientists

Deepika Raj & Dr. Jung Ha-Brookshire Deepika Raj is a doctoral student at the University of Missouri, USA and the Vice-President of the Graduate Student Association of the Textile and Apparel Management Department at her University. She is researching the intersection of technology and fashion and examines the collaboration between designers and engineers for wearable technology innovations. Dr. Jung Ha-Brookshire is Associate Professor and the Director of Graduate Studies in the Department of Textile and Apparel Management at the University of Missouri. She teaches Global Sourcing and Retail Marketing and Management to undergraduate students; and Theory Development and Global Supply Chain Management to graduate students. Her research interests include global supply chain and sourcing strategies, sustainable production and consumption of textile and apparel, and firm/industry identity issues. In this IC by AC interview, they discuss wearable technology, way the way it will influence our lives and the interaction of mind and body. Deepika Raj (left) Dr. Jung Ha-Brookshire (right

What are the biggest innovations in wearable technology youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve researched? Deepika Raj: The fashion industry is going through a tremendous amount of change with increased attention from technology companies such as Google and Intel. The effective combination of hard technology and soft fashion products is very crucial for WT. Currently, the market is full of hard, often aesthetically unpleasing WT gadgets made of plastic and other materials which are not quite comfortable to wear. This is where the need of getting softer materials for WT kicks in. Clothing items that are already designed based on the shape of the human body can be modified to incorporate technological elements to create WT that is easier and more comfortable 94

to wear. In our research, for the first time to our knowledge, the perspective of WT professionals was analyzed to uncover the challenges associated with product development. We examined how heterogeneous team members come together for innovation in the WT industry. One of the major findings of the research was how the difference in cultural and educational backgrounds of engineers and designers creates barriers in communication, leading to derailment of potential quality products. What is the relation between smart fabrics and wearable technology? D.R.: Smart fabric is the future of wearable technology. In our research, we found

that plastic and hard materials are not a very good fit for wearable technology. They are not comfortable for long term usage as they do not contour the human body as efficiently as a fabric. Apart from that, a clothing item already provides shelter to human body. The next step in clothing revolution is to make the shelter more scientific and protective on top of its traditional function of giving physical and psychological comfort. Additive manufacturing is another promising area which can prove helpful in inventing new kind of smart fibers which are good conductors as well as have good wearable properties. However, this high level of technological integration in clothing, whether in yarn or fabric form, will be disruptive for the clothing and textile industry. Some researchers

in the clothing and textile industry do believe that we need such disruption to revamp this industry to make it more environmentally sustainable which is very much needed in today’s world. What innovations are most likely to enter the mainstream market very soon? D.R.: With advent of solar fibers, and importance of solar energy to make our world more sustainable, I believe that we will find fabrics made from solar fibers. There are lot of innovations happening in intimates – undergarments that can clean on their own, more breathable bras that open and close vents based on the sensory information. Clothes with embedded LEDs that display information according to the consumer’s preference and clothes which changes shape according to the mood of the consumer can enter the market in future. Most of these innovations are niche-market focused and will require a lot of effort for mass production. It is very easy to make a prototype or few samples for niche market but scaling can prove compli-

cated. The intrinsic nature of fashion and technology makes seamless integration between the two, quite cumbersome. We look forward to the collaboration between Google and Levis for Project Jacqaurd to judge the feasibility of adding wires, connectors and batteries to fabric components during production stage. I think, fashion industry needs to take a lead in this initiative, and it’s time to build upon our values of creativity and add innovation to our skill set. In one of your articles, you claimed that wearable technology will give people superpowers. How will WT impact our lives and what superpowers will we have? D.R.: WT is going to impact our lives in multiple ways. As per one of the findings in the

research we need to have integrative WT that can solve multiple problem. Just like when medicine is injected in one of the nerves, whole body gets benefited by that medicine, we need to have one WT that can benefit us in multiple ways. For example – a WT that has the capability of making us healthy through health monitoring using sensory information, helping us interact with world by providing functions of a mobile phone and, incorporating motion sensors that can help in making our life easier by controlling appliances. The power given by WT can be limitless – we can get telepathic powers of communication through a chip embedded in the collar of our shirt, or flying powers by wearing clothes with wing like features. WT is affecting each phase of a human life. In child life sciences, WT is helping in understanding the growth pattern of babies and toddlers; in work life, WT is an immense source of productivity; and for older generation, WT is ensuring the safety and longevity of human life. As sensors and technologies are becoming smaller, we will see that 95

technology will be embedded in the clothes which we wear and then it will find its way on in-skin implantation. You are currently research techniques such as psychophysiology. Can you explain what this is and why you are using it? Dr. Jung Ha-Brookshire: Psychophysiology is a branch of psychology that is concerned with the physiological bases of psychological processes. The main subject matter of psychophysiology is the interaction of mind and body. In our study, my colleague and I tried to measure physiological response of consumers when responding to untrustworthy business activities by tracking the heart rates. Indeed, our study showed that when consumers were exposed to messages about malevolent business activities, their heart rate decelerated and affected consumers’ perceived trust and purchase intention. That is, some messages do impact both cognitive and physiology of the readers and there-

fore businesses would have to avoid such negative attention from consumers. We believe that psychophysiological research approach could tell us more than what the survey respondents would share. Can it be said that in the future, technology will become “nature?” D.R.: Two of the core concepts of wearable technology are ‘ubiquitous computing’ and ‘human computer interaction.’ Mobile phones were invented less than fifty years ago, and now it has become integral part of most of humans’ lives. We are not productive enough without using mobile phone. The study on human computer interaction has facilitated the way we use technology and it has made technology very user friendly. Just like most of us have not learned computer typing skills, but by using it constantly it has embedded in our brain, in the same way as younger generations are growing up with more advanced technology, some of them

will become part of our “nature” and will be difficult to live without. Technology will become like an external organ which will facilitate in all aspects of our life. So, yes. I do believe it will become part of our lives naturally. PHOTOS: Attire Club (except portraits)

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Fashion Ahead On AttireClub.org and in the InCompany magazine, we always love to feature the most interesting, advanced and captivating fashions of the moment. While we generally do a roundup of creations by different brands, in this article we’ll be focusing only on the creations of Kristin Neidlinger from SENSOREE. Their therapeutic biomedia is emotive technology with visual, auditory and tactile displays that promote extimacy – externalized intimacy. Their clothes make use of advanced technology to literally show on the outside how one feels on the inside. Here are some of their creations, which offer insight, communication and fun.

NEUROTiQ (bottom) is brain animating fashion – a knitted, 3d printed, EEG brain sensor – that maps thoughts and exhibits brain states with color.

The GER MOOD SWEATER (left) interprets emotion and displays excitement levels instantly with an illuminated collar. It is a whimsical approach to new forms of communication inspired by the body.

The FURVER fo.corset (right) is a hard shell, vacuum formed corset with emotionally volatile fur made of fiber optics. Inspired by sea anemones and porcupines, this design offers body armor with animated boundaries. The FURVERs interactive fur is an extension of goose bumps, the hair we feel rise in anticipation. At the base of the neck is a motion sensor that acts as the eyes in the back of the head. When it feels someone approach, the fiber optic fur illuminates and rises up and to warn and protect personal space dimensions. This SENSOREE interaction retrains the wearer to tune into this latent sense.

Discover SENSOREE online at sensoree. com

THE ATTIRE CLUB MOOD DIARY 100

Our mood board as a visual journal

Swedish Paintings Edition

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View of Uppsala, Uppland, Sweden 1760s 14th century stone house, Stora HĂ¤stnĂ¤s, Visby, Gotland, Sweden, Drawing from 1873

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Lars Cedergren, St. Nicolai medieval church ruin in Visby, Gotland, 18161830

Jokkmokk Old Church, Lappland, Sweden Litograph from the 19th century

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Elias Marin , Gripsholm Castle outside Mariefred, Sรถdermanland, Sweden, Watercolored pencil drawing, 1780 - 1800

The Swedish navy at Karlskrona in July 1789, Blekinge, Sweden

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Karl Nordstrรถm, Winter Night, 1907

Karl Nordstrรถm, Dawn Mt Chocorua, 1925

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Elias Martin, painting by Martin of Drottninggatan, a major thoroughfare in Stockholm, 1808

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Anna Palm de Rosa, Gustavianska operan, 1892

Anna Palm de Rosa, Speeding ticket, Bois de Boulogne

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Bruno Liljefors, Winter landscape with bullfinches, 1891

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AGENDA

London Collections: Men Spring-Summer 2017

LCM ambassador HuBing & Johannes Huebl at One For the Boys Chaity Ball at the London Collections: Men Spring-Summer 2017 event. Photo by Darren Gerrish, British Fashion Council 110

QR Code Glossary

Discover the websites presented in this issue!

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whytesu whytes.co Page 13

Paul Evans u paulevansny.com Page 58

Rampley & Co. u rampleyandco.com Page 33

Go-Comb u go-comb.com Page 58

Angelo Igitego u angeloigitego.com Page 34

Ivar London u ivarlondon.com Page 58

Cool Gear Cavalier u coolgearcavalier.com Page 36

Waskerd u waskerd.com Page 59

Dandy in the Bronx u dandyinthebronx.com Page 40

Happy Socks u happysocks.com Page 59

Martan u martan.com.au Page 44

KIE Shoppe u shopkie.com Pages 59, 91

MDV Style u mdvstyle.com Page 72

Hamid K. Hayaiu hamidkhayai.blogspot.com Page 82

Pattern of Society u patternofsociety.com Page 73

M-Clip u m-clip.com Page 87

Feltraiger u feltraiger.com Page 74

Michelangelo Winklaar u michelangelowinklaar.nl Page 90

Cake for Monarch u cakeformonarchs.com Page 75

Frigo by Revolutionwear u revolutionwear.com Page 97

Jacob Holston u jacobholston.com Page 76

Sensoree u sensoree.com Page 99

In Te Pro u etsy.com/shop/InTePro Page 79

JAQET u jaqet.com Page 111

Breaking Rocks Clothing u breakingrocksclothing.com Page 80

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