InCompany by Attire Club Issue 4 December 2016 by InCompany by Attire Club

Editorial: Blog, Blogger, the Bloggest

s the world is shifting from one way of being to the other, new ways of connecting with people appear and families or communities at large are built in different ways. One of these ways is through blogs. Just a few years ago, in 2006 for example, blogs were still something new: people were just starting to hear about them and most people did not know what to make of them. Initially, blogs were not taken very seriously as voices of society but they have grown into outlets that can be just as powerful as big corporations. Of course, the novelty factor, as well as the fact that bloggers did not have an equivalent in older societies, made people be quite reticent of them at first, and even today, bloggers at large still need to work to build credibility. But things are changing and bloggers that are more established and that have a good degree of credibility are becoming the new influencers of society. A blogger is a creative consumer, a journalist and a curator, creating his own sphere of influence. Today, blogging is beyond journalism, as it is more organic than classic journalism and incorporates many elements of society, such as dialogue by allowing comments, social media and advertising. This is why this December we have decided to keep the main theme of the magazine in the family and feature some of our fellow bloggers in the magazine. From The USA to Italy and from Pakistan to New Zealand, we cover the whole world of fashion bloggers, who have so gracefully opened their doors to us as we discussed with them style, fashion and blogging. The Attire Club Team

InCompanytAttirehClub Released by FRAQUOH AND FRANCHOMME Chief Executive Officer Dan Dimitriu Creative Director Iosif Trif Write letters to the editor iosif.trif@attireclub.org Visit our website attireclub.org Contact & Advertising office@attireclub.org Address Leopoldsgasse 4/16 1020 Vienna Austria Telephone 0097 150 12 801 73 Follow us Facebook: facebook.com/attireclub

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Contents Editorial:

Blog, Blogger, the Bloggest The creative consumer. u3 In Their Own Words: Fashion Communications Consultant Biki John A stylist, a fashion blogger, a TV producer - all in one. u 10 Fashion History: Fashions of the Future as Imagined in 1893 How did people in the 1800s imagine fashion will look like? u 14 Style Guide: Why and How You Should Wear Vintage Ties Add some style to your looks with vintage ties. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how! u 18 In Their Own Words: Blogger & Author Francesca Belluomini How to be Italian in Miami Beach. u 22

The Secret Photos of the World A collection of anonymous images depicting traditions throughout the world in the 1930s. u 26 In Their Own Words: Blogger Haseeb Sultan Abdul 6

From Pakistan with love! u 30

YListen to a song with the cotents!

Secrets of Fashion:

In Their Own Words: Bloggers Alexandra Zografou & Nadia Christodoulou The goddesses of Greek fashion blogging. u 36 Style Guide: 6 Things to Consider when Buying Glasses Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what you should know to get the best glasses! u 40 In Their Own Words: Blogger Sonia Sly The confluence of arts and fashion. u 44 Travel and Culture: The Vienna Christmas Markets The Austrian capital hosts numerous traditional Christmas markets Discover our photos! u 48 In Their Own Words: Fashion Designer Richard Rozbora Find out why the Slovak designer settled in Vienna. u 60 Current Obsessions: Here is what we love this season! Socks, shoes, cufflinks and more. u 64 Style Guide: 6 Advantages of Renting Clothes and Accessories In some rare cases, renting is better than buying! u 66 Fashion and Culture: Funny Fashion Laws from around the World Get ready to smile. u 71

Travel and Culture: Travel Alphabet: D for the Danube One of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest rivers is more than a river, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an inspiration. u 76 Fashion Ahead: The Bright BMBR Smart Jacket Wearing the Internet. u 82 Fashion and Technology: In Their Own Words: Fashion Designer & Innovator Anke Domaske Clothing made from milk? u 84 Under the Tree: Inspiration for Christmas What are you expecting to find under your tree? u 90 InTheir Own Words: Fashion Designer Yirko Sivirich Using Peru as his inspiration, the designer has created a unique aesthetic. u 100 The Attire Club Mood Diary: Our Moodboard as a Visual Journal Locomotive Litographs. u 106 Attire Club Flashback: The Attire Club Holidays Gift Guide u 114 A picture is worth a thousand words... QR Code Glossary: 8

Discover the Brands Mentioned in This Issue Use your gadget of choice to go right to the brands and blogs you've seen in this issue of the diary. u 116

InCompanytAttirehClub

The Smart Magazine Attire Club is offering a complete menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s style, fashion and lifestle experience, centered around the AC website. To discover our universe and over 700 articles that will offer you the tools to develop your style, as well as fashion inspiration and cultural insights and to interact with us and be part of our community, visit us online.

attireclub.org See our QR Code Glossary at the end of the magazine

Photographer: Patricia Santos

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Fashion Communications Consultant

Biki John Originally from Nigeria, now living in Germany, Biki John is a fashionista who is a strong presence in the global fashion scene. She has worked in many capacities, including as a fashion writer, a stylist, PR Consultant and TV host and producer. Besides her day job, Biki is also blogging sharing her personal outfits and opinions with the world. In this interview, our friend discusses her career, Nigerian fashion and her blog.

“I am an emotional dresser” How did you start your career in fashion? Biki John: I started with interning for fashion magazines like InStyle and Tatler, as well as assisting for stylists like Hector Castro, who at the time was styling iconic magazines like Russian Vogue. You do magazine styling, TV work and much more. Which part of your work is your favorite? BJ: I am lucky that my styling work allows me to work in different fashion mediums and each of them opens me up to new experiences, so it’s hard to pick my favourite. For example, I love interviewing people and showing fashion designs move so TV work is very appealing to me. At the same

time, I love conceptualizing and executing a fashion story, so I love magazine styling. Even though you currently live in Berlin, you still work with Nigerian companies. How would you describe the Nigerian fashion world? BJ: The Nigerian fashion industry- especially in the last 5 years- has grown immensely. Yes, we are still hindered by challenges like insufficient government funding and infrastructure, but now because we have more internationally recognized fashion shows that take place in Lagos, the fashion capital of Nigeria, our industry is slowly gaining more widespread recognition. Also, we have designers like Lisa Folawiyo (Jewel by Lisa), Nkwo Onwuka (NKWO),

Kenneth Ize and Amaka Osakwe (Maki Oh) who are all doing a tremendous job of fusing their African heritage with contemporary detailings in their collections. I for one look forward to when all of these achievements can reap more financial rewards for the creatives involved. It seems that African fashion is spreading a lot on the Old Continent and even in the United States. Do you see this trend? BJ: From the time luxury designers could travel to various continents to be inspired for their collections, they have borrowed and interpreted various African styles and traditions for their collections. For example, Yves Saint Lau11

ren’s African & Safari Collections shook the fashion world in 1967. In later years, high end designers like DVF, Burberry, Roberto Cavalli, Dries Van Noten and more have all produced collections with strong African themes that can be seen by their use of colourful wax prints, animal prints and safari tones. I also believe that international figures from Beyoncé to Michelle Obama wearing pieces designed by African designers has also helped to expose African fashion further to the masses. It’s my hope for the future that our designs and culture are seen less as trends and more as a lifestyle. On your blog, you share lots of pictures of your outfits. What are you looking for when you are putting together an outfit for yourself? BJ: Honestly, I don’t look for anything. I am an ‘emotional dresser’ this means I style myself according to my mood and what I am inspired by at that particular moment. If you go

Styling by Biki John for Kaltblut magazine. Photographer: Mika Ceron

through my personal style blog posts, you will see I love allblack outfits, colourful prints and statement accessories. At this particular moment, I am having a leather and faux fur moment! I am a big fan of the Glam Studio 54 and Dynasty era and this will become very obvious in my upcoming

autumn - winter blog posts! What are you looking for when you are putting together a look for a magazine, which are the ingredients of a great fashion shot? BJ: For me the foundation of a great fashion shoot is a strong and inspiring concept. For example, till this day, my favourite fashion shoot is Zula. The concept had Grace Jones’s strong African character Zula from Conan the Destroyer at its core. Because I had this clear vision, it was easy for me to assemble a team who I believed could translate my moodboard into reality. It also made pulling the clothes much easier because I knew the character I wanted to dress and story I wanted to tell via the images. Photographer: Patricia Santos

Styling by Biki John for Sublime magazine. Photographer: Marcelo Benfield

What is your forecast on the fashion world from a global perspective? BJ: There have been so many debates on the future of fashion based on the fact that when it comes to consumers and their way of shopping, people want more and more, and

they want it fast. As a result of that, I see more global e-commerce stores continuing to profit from the fact that more consumers are continuing to depend on physical stores less to satisfy their shopping and distribution needs. I also see the worlds of mobile, social media and retail merging

even further which will lead to some interesting results. Thank you!

Follow Bikiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blog at myfashionslashlife.com 13

FASHION HISTORY

Fashions of the Future as Imagined in 1893 The Strand magazine published in 1893 a series of illustrations by W. Cade Gall under the title “Future Dictates of Fashion”. Starting from the premise that a book from a 1993 called “Past Dictates of Fashion” had been found in a library, the article describes the fashions of the 20th century. Of course, for the people in 1893, those fashions represented the future. The illustrations focus on a medieval aesthetic very much, which, even though was wrong, goes to show that the author did in a way notice that fashion would in a way be cyclical. If you think about it, back in the 19th century, the concept of fashion as we have it today was rather fresh. The drawings are interesting to look at and prove how hard it is to predict future aesthetics, especially for such a long period of time. Studying these drawings, you will see that in Gall’s imagination, the 1920s were not very different from the 70s. Of course, he did not predict that society would change so drastically so quickly. Some things, such as that women’s skirts would shorten, were for him unconceivable. But he did get the Hammer pants… somehow. Discovering this type of future visions is fascinating as it makes one feel that they might be glimpsing into another dimension. Who knows, maybe in the future we will even be able to do that too.

STYLE GUIDE

Why and How You Should Wear Vintage Ties

Photos: Attire Club

Quality, quality, quality When you are buying a vintage tie, you should always make sure that it is really worth wearing. Look for any striking abnormalities, defects, smells, etc., that might make your tie unwearable. Always remember that a vintage tie is not a new tie and that it will have flaws, but if these aren’t major ones, they shouldn’t take away from the piece’s value.

ies are the most common male accessory worn around the world. A tie is an element that gives a man elegance, style and refinement. This is why your ties should always be impeccable and should always express your personality, taste and preferences. Vintage ties are becoming more and more fashionable today, as the rediscovery of old fashions brings new inspiration and new ways of expression. Vintage pieces have cultural meanings attached to them and, while we encourage you to own a few vintage clothes, we think that there are some things that need to be considered when you are purchasing a vintage item. Your goal is to look your best and this is why we have put together a list of things you should consider when you want to wear a vintage tie.

Make sure that your seller is honest about the era from which your tie comes, the state it is in, whether it has been through alterations or not and so on. It can be hard to find an honest source, but it is definitely worth it. There is no point in buying a “lie tie”; it is basically the equivalent of buying a rip-off!

Vintage and modern When you are wearing a vintage tie, you should always wear it with modern pieces. There are some people who think that vintage accessories work well paired with other vintage accessories, but, as style experts, we believe that, since you are living in the 21st century, you should look like you are living in the 21st century. Wearing references to other times and places is alright and we encourage you to do that, but we don’t want you to look like you are wearing a costume. We

think that one vintage piece in your outfit is enough, but if you really want you can opt for two pieces at a time. If you want to be clear about the era you are referencing, you can wear modern clothes that have a vintage vibe. So many designs today are inspired from vintage clothes, without looking like a costume. We encourage you to wear your vintage tie with modern clothes that have that certain vintage vibe, but are not vintage within themselves. Since vintage ties are clearly a statement, we recommend that you wear them mostly with casual outfits.

Know your references When you are wearing a vintage tie, it is very important to know exactly where it comes from and what it represents. You might find out that some styles reference dark events and you don’t want to attract the wrong kind of attention. Always make sure the tie you are wearing was not part of some gruesome association’s uniform.

Know your styles When wearing vintage ties, many men think theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve tied their tie wrongly, if the front end is shorter than the thin end. If you find yourself in this situation, you didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do something wrong, as many men in the past used to stick the thin, long end in their waistband. Some famous men like Fred Astaire and Gene Kelly used to place the entire tie in their waistband to keep it from flying away. But these days, there are better ways to make your tie stay in place. Which brings us to our next point...

Accessorize Even though ties are already accessories, they can be further accessorized with smaller accessories. Tie clips, pins and other creative pieces can make a tie both stable and stylish. We think that a vintage tie looks better with a modern tie bar, but it really is all a matter of taste. If you wish, you can wear a vintage tie with a vintage tie bar (but then you should not wear any other vintage item).

Mixing eras If you are wearing a vintage tie with another vintage piece, you should consider whether you want to mix eras or not. Will a tie from the 1930s work with a tie clip from the 1990s? The answer is both yes and no. To make sure two vintage pieces go together well, at least one of them should be what you would consider â&#x20AC;&#x153;timelessâ&#x20AC;?. For example, a simple, golden tie clip is a timeless piece. Of course, it will have a subtle mark of its era in its design, but overall it is a piece you can wear with a tie from any decade and place.

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Blogger & Author

Francesca Belluomini Francesca Belluomini is a Italian fashion writer, stylist and blogger, who lives in Miami Beach, Florida. In this interview, Francesca discusses her Italian heritage, her website and her new book, “The Cheat Sheet of Italian Style”.

“It wasn’t until I moved to the States that I realized how much Italian I was” What can you tell us about growing up in Italy? How has this influenced your life? Francesca Belluomini: It wasn’t until I moved to the States that I realized how much Italian I was. Family is the center of your universe and by that I mean long, messy, crowded lunches on Sundays, waiting for Santa on Christmas Eve, mushroom hunting after the first rain showers in September, fall weekends spent perusing the antique markets in the neighboring medieval towns in Tuscany, summers at the beach. It’s a simple life surrounded by art and history and that is the biggest privilege, it stimulates curiosity, it molds an eye for esthetics and appreciation for craftsmanship.

How did your work in the fashion field begin? FB: It all started with playing dress up in my grandmother’s armoire. Our great grandmother was a talented and known seamstress in town, my grandmother, my mom and her sisters were always dressed to the nines and I was lucky enough to have free access to those gowns and silk frocks. I remember I would grab the scraps of the fabrics from the floor in the studio after the clients were gone for the day and my great grandmother’s assistants would make dresses for my dolls. That’s when I started understanding the quality of the fabrics, handmade details like stitching, embroidery, the privilege of custom made. I think it never left me. The same way I can recognize by the color if pasta has been cooked al dente, I love the touch of a supreme fabric like cashmere or silk

duchesse and I select by touch. On your website, you offer a system that helps women be their best style-wise. What can you tell us about that? FB: After my major wardrobe crash, when I realized my closet was full of meaningless clutter and I had “nothing to wear” like we all do, I realized I had fallen in the trap of consumerism, edging fast fashion at an addicting rate and reached a screeching alt. How come my grandmother or my father were always impeccably chic and yet had very few items in their closet? In a retrospective process, in which I went extreme-Marie-Kondo, I realized that “I feel good only when I look good” and it’s never with more than a few of good pieces. That’s what I call the Italian way and now it’s in the book: ten struts to reconcile with confidence and that feeling of appropriate23

ness by only searching inside your closet in the morning. You are currently releaseing a book. What can you tell us about it? FB: It’s out! Like a baby, long hours of labor, a little bit more than just a piece of me in it, but I am proud of that little precious creature. In fact, I am told it’s common for authors to relate to their books as their brood. How was the writing process for you? FB: I love writing, if I need24

ed confirmation. It’s thrilling and terrifying, paralyzing, even though my motivational speakers friends would discourage me to use the word. It’s a solitary process that needs people, I wrote most of the book in the early morning hours, but then would read it at a café with white noise, it needed a frame. Never like in those months, I remembered the words of my sociology professor in college who would encourage us to “look at ourselves like a passerby from the balcony” as that is the only perspective that a serious journalist should approach any news. I became a spectator of me walking down the street.

And, last but not least – How to be Italian? FB: There are things we do and things we don’t, but we really don’t follow rules, same goes for trends. The most important thing is “don’t take yourself too seriously” and that “quintessential seal of being pulled together with insouciant elegance” will come natural. But first, coffee. Thank you!

Follow Francesca’s blog at chicfb.com

Rule #56: Always keep a balance between your teamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s look and your individuality attireclub.org

SECRETS OF FASHION

The

Secret Photos World the

In 1935, “Manhattan House” published a book called “The Secret Museum”. The publication is indeed a veritable mystery book. It has no author and no credits. It does not have a copyright, a date, page numbers or an index. It simply features “Five Volumes in One” that put together a visual history of people from all around the world. Presented with descriptions in a rather cold tone, the images continue to fascinate as they tell the stories of rituals and slaves, of weapons and warriors and of equilibrists and equestrians. These unique photos seem in a way to represent a disaster about to happen: they so are culturally charged, that the viewer feels that the whole anthropological charge and structure will break and fall a second after the photograph has been taken. Discover a selection of these photos in this IC X AC roundup.

FLORAL MASKS HIDE THE BLUSHES OF SOME BULGARIAN BRIDES Regardless of whether a bride is rich or poor, she endeavors to make her headdress, which is the center of her image, as gorgeously ponderous as possible; and, as much as she can carry. The cap of coins and floral burden are fortunately not worn for long and are quickly replaced by the more popular and simpler headdress – a simple wreath of flowers and leaves.

IN A COTTAGE COURTYARD ON THE ISLAND OF MOON (MUHU) Embroidery is one of the main handicrafts of some Estonian peasant women, who place a lot of attention to details such as stockings and gloves. These pieces are among the regulation gifts traditionally presented on marriage.

THE WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL SAVAGE A native Maori wearing a traditional costume.

“WEARING O’ THE GREEN” IN THE LATVIAN COUNTRYSIDE In Latvia, Saint John’s Day, called by the Latvians “Ligo” is one of the most cheerful holidays in Latvia. On this occasion, people decorate themselves and their houses with garlands of foliage, mostly oak leaves. Both young and old participate in this festivity, which is a remnant of pagan celebrations in connection with the ancient nature-worship of ancient people.

TRIPPING IT ON “THE LIGHT FANTASTIC TOE” Legend has it that Finnish people are very fine dancers. Their enthusiasm and naturalness when it comes to dancing are impressive and the grace they communicate is impressive. A hard work’s day is often crowned with a feast and dance during the haymaking and harvest seasons and everyone who’s contributed to the work is welcome to dance along.

IDENTIFICATION BADGES IN PERU When a Peruvian Indian starts out on a journey, he generally will daub his face with scarlet dye. This is meant to have a grotesque effect and indicates the tribe to which he belongs. The necklaces made of seeds and beads he is wearing represent his total worldly possessions.

HOMELY BUT COMELY PEASANT PAIR OF THE BLACK FOREST The costumes worn by these newlyweds from Schapbach, Germany donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t feature many ostentatious details. However, the chaplet, which is composed of colored glass balls and beads is a never-failing feature of classic bridal attire.

GIRLS OF THE EASTERN BORDER OF ALBANIA DANCING IN THE GORGEOUS DRESSES OF THEIR CLAN In Albania, girls do most of the filed work, while men pursue (or evade) vendettas. For them, shepherding and cattle tending is like a holiday task and, when they do it, they embroider their festive attire with lacework coifs and stiff heraldic overdress. Meanwhile, their small savings go in a silver-work with which they adorn their costumes.

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Blogger

Haseeb Sultan Abdul Haseeb Sultan Abdul is a Pakistani blogger and pop culture aficionado. A few years ago, he started his blog called That Paki Blog, where he would post poetry and essays of personal thoughts. He then added a fashion twist to it and became a very prominent online presence, which opened many doors for him.

“I was that weird kid who would devour the style pages of various newspapars” How did your passion for fashion and creative works begin?

How did you start your blog, originally thatpakiblog.com?

you become an influential blogger in Pakistan and around the world??

Haseeb Sultan Abdul: To be honest, I was that weird kid who would devour the style pages of various newspapers and have cutouts of every collection in a collage on his walls. At the same time, I used to write a lot of poetry and non-fiction. My journal at that time was filled with pictures and cutouts from weekly fashion newspapers supplements and creative writing chronicling my life in my boarding school.

HSA: In my senior year of high school or 12th grade, I started my blog. I thought maybe I could combine the things I loved and write about it on my blog. The blog has evolved so much. And it’s been seven years since then that I’ve been keeping this online journal.

HSA: I think I became known as the poet boy who wrote about men’s fashion and it was really interesting because my blog’s name was unique and it didn’t limit me in ways a regular fashion-only blog name would’ve. It was my space, and everyone was welcome enough that I got thousands of followers who stayed with me on this journey. I think it was my blatant honesty and being myself that made me get where I am. The internet is a very intelligent place, and fake-ness

In a way, the name of your blog, That Paki Blog, was very representative of who you were as a blogger – you represented the surprise element of the web. How did

can only survive for so long! Was there a lot of criticism or pressure coming with the blog? HSA: I think not from the people but from my own self. I constantly thrived to create original and unique content that was inspiring and fun to go through. At the same time I didn’t want to be the dumb good looking boy who posted pictures of his pretty face and gained followers from that. There’s nothing wrong with it, but I just don’t want it for myself. So it got kind of tough to balance the element of originality in this world of constant bombardment of monotony. But my readers always appreciated when i did something new, and that is what still keeps me going. What would you say have been the highlights of your career as a writer and blogger so far? HSA: Oh, so many! I became a top celebrity stylist, I wrote for GQ, and a post for Buzzfeed on men’s fashion. I also modeled for a little bit. Then I took a break from blogging to focus on my art. When I got back and started posting my art, i got Tumblr famous for a while, and my art reached the eyes of over 1.5 million people in a little over two weeks. Because of that I got to design a magazine cover and it’s been just really exciting!

What is the current state of your relationship with being an online influencer? HSA: I think I still strive for originality and try and stay away from monotony. My followers appreciate it and my engagement level is still very much sane. But most of all, my followers listen to me, and do consider my opinion on fashion as valid, and that’s something I don’t see a lot here in my country.

How would you describe the Pakistani blogging scene? What are the main interests, what are the influences, what are the niches? HSA: Very poor quality. I think PR companies in Pakistan have taken over the blogging scene in Pakistan and now it’s all about who does the most marketing. Everyone calls themselves a blogger. With Instagram, it’s gotten easier to get famous and gain a following, but at the same time the quality of blogging has dropped so much. So I 33

think now, the main interest is just about who covers what event, and who posts the most pre-requisite posts sent over by the PR person.

art! I’m excited to see what the future holds.

How would you describe the Pakistani fashion scene?

HSA: I want to open a physical space where i can get to sell not only carefully curated things, but a curated lifestyle to people. Health, fashion, interiors, books, I want to create a space where people come to be better than they are and leave a whole new person. So that’s the dream for now. But I’d also like to write a book of essays and some fiction as well.

HSA: It’s growing. Baby steps, but the right steps are being taken. I am very happy with how the internet has brought a sense of positive competition among designers, so much so that they’re now trying to evolve their aesthetics, and just creating real works of

What would you like to do in the near future?

Thank you! To keep up with Hasseb, visit his blog at haseebsultan.com

Rule #123: Always be careful and follow the rules when breaking into new territories attireclub.org

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Bloggers

Alexandra Zografou & Nadia Christodoulou Alexandra Zografou and Nadia Christodoulou are the Greek fashion duo behind the “les assories” blog. Their blog consists of fashion features that encourage dialogues on style among designers, publishers, bloggers, professionals and other fashionistas and fashionistos. In this interview, they discuss their blog, the contemporary Greek fashion scene and what they personally love to wear.

“We decided to dedicate our free time to create something (...) that would channel both our personalities” How did you start your blog? Alexandra Zografou: It all started in the summer of 2013, when we were both finishing our internship at a fashion magazine – we were interning at different departments; Nadia at Events and me at the Editorial department. At that time, I was thinking about my potential next step, and how it would really help if I started a blog as an online portfolio, and then Nadia pitched me the same idea. That was it! We felt the timing couldn’t be more right, and we posted our first story in October.

Nadia Christodoulou: This goes back three years ago, in what I believe was sort of a “transitional” life phase for both of us, as we had just finished our internships, and had to plan our future steps. So we decided to dedicate our free time to create something… good; something that would channel both our personalities as well as our academic and professional backgrounds. After brainstorming and filtering our numerous ideas, we came down to les assorties!

How did you choose the blog’s name? AZ: It was all Nadia! I have always been fascinated with the French language, which she is impressively fluent in, and asked her if she could make a few suggestions. We came down to les assorties because its meaning implies a duo, and we both firmly believe that the French fashion has always been – and will remain– at the forefront of the global fashion scene. NC: Alex and I may be two completely different people, but we have three important points in common: One, we

understand each other without even having to use words, which is the secret behind a successful collaboration; two, we laugh a lot; three, we have the same view of fashion while having completely different personal styles. In other words, we match and complete each other! And as genuine French lovers (of everything) we chose to describe ourselves in a French way – actually I did! What have been your website’s highlights so far? AZ: I would have to say having the tremendous luck to interview people whose career and entrepreneurial spirit we admire, like Alexandra Van Houtte from Tagwalk and Amy Roiland from A Fashion Nerd and FashionTap. Another thing would be being included in fashion shows and events resonating with our mission through our website. Photo from ‘The12Project : CONFLICT, featured on les assorties. Photo : h7o7Films (Hadi Moussally & Olivier Pagny). Model : Alexandre Jeanson. Fashion Designer : Songzio. Fashion Stylist: Marie Scirocco MUA: Wallace Woo Hair Stylist : Alexandre Jeanson Hair Assistant: Aimie Benanan.

What can you tell us about the Greek fashion scene?

thanks to their eccentric work - see Nikos Koulis and Lito.

AZ: I believe that, with a few exceptions of Greek designers known internationally, the Greek fashion scene – from designers and bloggers to publishers – is limited, and still has a long way to go to compete within the global fashion industry. What I am really excited about though is the new crop of Greek jewelry designers carving their own path to the fine jewelry industry

NC: The Greek fashion industry is represented by many creative and talented designers, but has not developed that much due to the small size of the local market and financial difficulties. However, there are well-established Greek designers, who have began building a reputation abroad, and through their work are making the Greek fashion community proud in-

NC: The moment we received our first fashion show invitation.

Fernando Echeverria Shoes, featured on les assorties Photographer: Alexandros V.

ternationally. It’s impressive how many successful fashion brands have cropped out within the last decade, and I believe that we have much more to see yet. How do you see the blogging landscape evolving? AZ: I believe that anyone deciding to start a blog today would have to be utterly professional about its every aspect – from layout to its business growth plan. With the blogosphere being oversaturated, the options are endless, so standing out and attracting your target audience is a tough goal. Having a very particular niche and a unique voice is crucial. Then again, with all established bloggers expanding their blogs into media or retail businesses, I think blogging could be a launch pad for other careers within the industry.

What are you currently obsessed with, fashion- or otherwise?

never dare to do a year ago. Thank you!

AZ: Sporting high turtlenecks underneath silk slip dresses; anticipating Rachel Antonoff ’s Betty-and-Veronica inspired collection hitting the stores in spring; honing my horseback riding skills and trying my first jump within the first semester of 2017 – wish me luck! w NC: Wearing my fine jewelry casually, something I would

Follow the les assorties blog at lesassorties.com Photo from Cafuné, featured on les assorties

NC: I believe what makes a blogger successful is authenticity and clear orientation, elements that give specific character to the site. Today bloggers are considered neither journalists nor advertisers anymore; they are influencers and content creators. They represent the consumer decision journey; how they think, feel and finally come to purchase a product. So, I strongly believe in this relationship between bloggers and brands; the evolution of this relationship could lead to the evolution of the blogging landscape.

STYLE GUIDE

6 Things to Consider when Buying Glasses

Photos: Attire Club

lot of people today need to wear glasses. Fort u n a t e l y, glasses are now not only medical pieces, but fashion accessories as well, as many fashion brands are developing eyewear lines as well. You can choose a pair of glasses that will compliment your look if you know what to look for when buying a new pair.

of the lenses, the most important thing about a pair of glasses. A pair of glasses can enhance your natural features and make you look better. Some people even look better with glasses than without.

Here are six things to consider when you are thinking of buying new glasses:

Therefore, people with oval faces can wear most shapes, while people with rounder faces should wear glasses that feature rather pointy angles. People with square faces should balance out their features by wearing glasses with rounded edges.

1. Shape The shape of your eyeglasses is, besides the functionality

This is why it is very important to choose the right glasses for your face shape. Basically, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about working with your facial feature and balancing them to create a harmonious look.

2. Sizes Eyeglasses frames are sized with three numbers written on the packaging or on the frame. These numbers represent the size of the lens, the size of the bridge that crosses your nose and the length of the temples. These measurements, however, do not take into consideration the thickness of your glasses or other elements, so two sets of frames with identical measurements can feel different

depending on their design. This is why you should remember that thinner, lighter frames usually sit more comfortable and allow a better fit, which is what makes them more appropriate if you have glasses that feature important points in the lenses. Heavy and large frames should be sized looser than what you are used to.

3. Color The color of your glasses is a very important aspect. When you are buying glasses, you should take a few factors into consideration: The color or print of your glasses frames is a crucial element to consider when you are choosing stylish glasses. You need to consider your features when you are choosing these. Your glasses are going to be placed very close to your eyes, your hair and obviously, your skin, which is why it is important to know how to coordinate colors. Some colors mix better

with others, some combinations create contrasts (e.g. black frames on very white skin) while others mute each other out (e.g. white frames on very white skin). The color of the lenses is also an important factor to think of. Most glasses have transparent lenses or feature reflexes, while others change their color with the environment. Some sunglasses feature very colorful lenses. These generally are sporty and go well with urban clothes. Make sure that the frames â&#x20AC;&#x201C; lenses combination is the right one and afterwards consider whether this color or color combination works well with your wardrobe. Which brings us to our next point...

ban clothes usually go better with funky designs and bright colors such as bright green or fuchsia, while semi-formal or formal clothes should be matched to elegant, sleek glasses. Remember that when it comes to wearing metallic glasses, both gold and silver are neutrals, so they can be worn with anything. Gold and silver can also be paired with each other, which means that if you have golden sunglasses they will work with a silver necklace too, not with just a golden one.

4. Versatility To find the right pair of glasses, you also need to consider the way they work with your style. Think of the clothes you are wearing and go for a pair that has a design that works well with your clothes. Ur-

Your style is not the only thing your glasses need to match, they also need to be appropriate for the things you do or for the places you go. Ask yourself whether the pair you are trying on is right for your job, for the message you want to send out and for your lifestyle. A pair of hot pink glasses is probably not the most appropriate look if you are trying to be a doctor for example.

5. Materials In regards of materials, there are many chemicals that are used to make glasses. Nylon-based composites and plastics are generally used to create colorful glasses, but painted metals are also used sometimes. Zylonite (also called just Zyl) is also a lightweight material from which frames are made. It is available in most colors. Sport glasses are generally made from more flexible nylon-based materials. Because of their flexibility and lightness, titanium and titanium alloys are also popular fabrics when it comes to manufacturing glasses. If you suffer from allergies or have sensitive skin, you should be careful with wearing cheaper blended metals. Most alloys used to make eyeglass frames include nickel, which is an element to which some people are allergic. You can also find frames made from aluminum, which might come at a very affordable price, but are not very durable. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also not very healthy to wear 42

aluminum, so we definitely recommend avoiding those.

6. Price The price is a decisive factor when you are on the lookout for a new pair of glasses. After considering all the factors written so far, the price is probably a key element when it comes to purchasing glasses. As you know, more expensive does not always equal better, but if you want to buy cheap glasses, ask yourself why they are so cheap. Purchasing a pair that costs very little is probably an indicator of weak materials and bad payments for the workers that make the frames. Think about the fact that you will be wearing your glasses a lot, which is why you should think of investing in a good piece. Designer frames usually come at higher costs, but they usually also guarantee quality materials and good craftsmanship. To conclude, we need to say that these tips are just guidelines that can help you buy a good pair of glasses. In the end, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about your personal comfort, the confidence your glasses give you and the way you feel they convey to the world the message you want to transmit.

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IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Blogger

Sonia Sly Sonia Sly is a Chinese-New Zealander with a background in media, the arts and theatre. Formally, she trained as an actor at the Toi Whakaari: New Zealand Drama School, but has expanded her career into many directions, becoming even and award-winning documentary producer for RNZ National. On her blog, Sly on the Wall, Sonia explores clothes, art and design, the ways these connect and the way they trigger emotion, memory and even humor. In this interview, she discusses her career, her blog and the New Zealand fashion scene.

“The blog has become more of a platform for personal expression” How did you start your website, Sly on the Wall? Sonia Sly: I had always wanted to start a blog, but my media job kept me so busy. I was actually on maternity leave for a year and finally had a chance to get it going - I was starved of a creative outlet. I work for RNZ National in New Zealand and my job is highly creative, so I found myself desperate for a new venture and so Sly On The Wall was born. What have been some of your blog’s highlights? Sonia Sly: That’s an interesting question. Over time the blog has become more of a platform for personal expression more than anything else. 44

It’s a creative space outside of my job. I love writing about the fantastic creative people that I meet and going to New Zealand Fashion Week! I also love playing around with photography and the blog has also enabled me to experiment with different styles of writing. Since starting my blog, I now cover a lot of fashion content for RNZ including a fashion-based podcast called My Heels are Killing Me, which goes behind the scenes of the fashion industry here in New Zealand and was launched this August. As a New Zealander, what can you tell us about the fashion scene in New Zealand?

SS: I think New Zealand fashion is changing quite dramatically. At the really ‘fashionable’ end of the spectrum it used to be quite dark and moody, think Nom*D and Zambesi which are well established Kiwi labels who have always pushed boundaries and are considered a bit underground in places like Australia. WORLD is a label that’s all about bright color and quirky prints and the designers like to make fun of fashion. I especially adore their menswear. Jimmy D designs a lot of beautiful drapey black silks that work across a lot of different body types. I think he understands that women don’t always want to flaunt their figures, but that clothing should always make you

Photographer: Luke Calder

feel good - he’s just started designing unisex pieces too! But, yes, today there are a lot of exciting new designers entering the industry. Wynn Hamlyn is one of my favorite new designers who does very technical things with knitwear and this year at New Zealand Fashion Week he presented incredible coats made of Axminster carpet. I tried one on and it basically swamped me at 4’11”, but the models made them look incredibly covetable. Other designers coming through that are worth looking out for are Eugenie - lots of great womenswear denim, Queensland-based Kylie Mangan who presented an incredible palette this year and the perfect candy floss woolen pinafore dress, and Motel Bible by designer Annalisa Bradley, who showed so many pieces that I want in my wardrobe. I always like designers that are less conventional and push the boat out...Steve Hall is a young menswear designer who has just moved overseas. I was lucky enough to get some custom pieces made before he left the country!

of arts content, so I love being able to extend that across to my blog with articles that are informative and give an insight into a designer or artist that people might not have heard of before. I don’t always have time to do this, but I love supporting new talent where I can! I also love poetry, so my website can tend to be a playground to express myself or an idea - sometimes based around an outfit. I like being a bit abstract at times, and with poetry you can say so much more.

On the blog, you cover not only fashion, but also other forms of creativity. What role do these play in your life?

SS: Finding funny Gifs to send to friends always puts a smile on my face. And fashion-wise, I’m super obsessed with balloon-shaped sleeves. I’m a massive fan of New Zealand label, Karen Walker (internationally known for her sunglasses). She always does a small cut, and as I’m rather petite I always find something that works for me in her collections. I bought one of her balloon sleeved trench coats

SS: Yes, that’s correct! I have a media degree, but I also trained as an actor and have done a bit of writing for stage and also a lot of writing for radio documentaries over the past 10 years. As part of my job I’ve produced a great deal 46

What are your main sources of inspiration? SS: I love connecting with ‘real’ people who enjoy a good honest conversation. Nature, as cheesy as that sounds, is always inspiring and I live on a hill that backs onto a bush reserve so it’s rather peaceful. Silence also inspires me because the most interesting insights can often be found in the spaces between... What are you currently obsessed with, fashion- or otherwise?

a few months ago, which is perfect as we’re transitioning into summer now. I’m also obsessed with ethical online clothing store Well Made Clothes. And one of my ultimate obsessions is a long-time love affair with Trippen shoes. The architecture and design is beautiful and I love how unique they are. I just bought my first pair! I have to admit that it’s possibly the beginning of building up a collection... For more, visit Sonia’s blog at slyonthewall.com

From the Campbell Luke New Gen Presentation. Photo by Sonia Sly.

From the Salasai Life in theory Presentation. Photo by Sonia Sly.

Rule #50: Always be sure of what you do attireclub.org

TRAVEL AND CULTURE

Vienna Christmas Markets Greetings from the

Vienna is known worldwide for its tradtional Christmas Markets that take place every winter in the Austrian capital. These dreamllike events are a great source of inspiration for colors, shape and shine. Discover a collection of pictures from the 2016 edition of various Viennese markets.

Photos: Attire Club 48

At the Town Hall Christmas Market

At the City Hall Christmas Market

At the Altwiener Christmas Market

At the Stephansplatz Christmas Market

At the City Hall Christmas Market At the City Hall Christmas Market

At the City Hall Christmas Market

At the MuseumsQuartier Christmas Market

At the Altwiener Christmas Market At the Altwiener Christmas Market

At the “Am Hof ” Christmas Market At the Altwiener Christmas Market

At the City Hall Christmas Market At the City Hall Christmas Market

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Fashion Designer

Richard Rozbora

Richard Rozbora is a Slovak fashion designer who works as the creative director of the family label Rozbora Couture. He is presenting his collections in Vienna, Austria and has even received the Austrian Quality Store Check Awards. In his womenswear designs, he is exploring femininity and modesty and always striving for impeccable tailoring. In this interview, he discusses Slow Fashion, why he chose to work in Vienna and shares his advice for upcoming designers.

“Everything in fashion depends on creativity” How did your career as a fashion designer begin? Richard Rozbora: As a teenager I used to say to my parents that the only school I would like to graduate in was the Central St. Martin’s University of the Arts in London. That has happened and I think it was arranged by destiny. I started to study architecture, design and interior design at the Faculty of Architecture of the Slovak Technical University in Bratislava. After several academic semesters, I left to study fashion design at the Frederick Institute of Technology in Nicosia, Cyprus, where my father served as the Ambassador. I learned many professional techniques and technology, everything from cutting to sewing. During my study time, I was addressed by a professor from Brighton University who was extremely interested by me and my creation. That time she was teaching Matthew Williams who is now significant personality of British fashion. 60

In spite of her trying to convince me to focus my study om textile design, I decided to study fashion design - womenswear at Central St. Martin’s, which is, according to some professionals, the best school of fashion in the world. What would you say is your vision: what are your influences, what subjects do you discuss with your clothes, what are the main design elements you like to use and why? RR: I enjoy every phase of the preparation of new collection. The biggest challenge for me is to create clothes in such a way that they are perfect, beautiful and that they fit customers well, not only models. Certainly, I do not see myself only like an artist; I am no swinger with a glass of champagne in my hand. I am a practical and pragmatic entrepreneur with a tendency to be more technical. I am also a manager who has to solve a number of production and

practical questions. I consider namely that the type of fashion I make is not exclusively art. It is just the balance between artistic and commercial products. Of course, fashion can be a work of art, but for this type of art patrons must be found because the price of such a piece is often staggering. How do you balance the artistic – commercial aspect of making clothes? RR: Fashion is playful and fun, I really enjoy it, and that is, I think, visible on my models. In architecture, which I studied as well, you can wait your whole life for something interesting to come up, which in the end sometimes does not materialize. Everything in fashion depends on creativity. I like to say that if you make a mistake in architecture, it could be dangerous with fatal consequences. If you make a mistake in fashion it could become a trend.

Photographer: Stefan J. Wolf

And what inspires me? Sometimes it is an idea, other times, casual look on the street with architectonic gems or on simple stone pavement. Inspiration is everywhere around us, you just have to look at things from a different perspective. I draw my ideas from architecture, art, nature, history, from combining the non-combinable, connecting things which seemingly contradict each other - essentially from everywhere. In my creation, I like to use monochromatic fabrics and silk. I rarely use printed fabrics that I make myself, as I believe that my colleagues who are textile designers, and have already created the patterns, have done their job. You claim to be an adept of “slow fashion”, what can you tell us about that? RR: Yes, I am an advocate for the Slow Fashion philosophy and I am pleased by the fact Photographer: Stefan J. Wolf

that younger generations are more and more willing to pay for quality and that they wear clothes they can put on even some years later. For instance, Lady Diana was well known for recycling her dresses. In the past, clothes were even subjects of inheritance from generation to generation. Recently, I noticed on Facebook a status of Ivanka Trump’s had her dressed in clothes that were twenty years old. I cannot imagine that wonderful garments by the late designer Oscar de la Renta would not still be worn or that anybody buys very nice clothes to wear only for one season. Some of the outfits are just like a jewel and people wear jewels without any time limit. It is a fashion which, thanks to its timelessness and high quality, never goes out of style.

You present and sell your clothes in Vienna. What brought you to the Austrian capital and what made you stay? RR: Of course my team and I chose Vienna. We decided to develop our activities in this historical multicultural city due to our family roots. My ancestors have been living there. Vienna is also a beautiful town which is very fast changing. It is a creative metropolis which it always had great culture and art. Vienna is now stepping in the fashion industry spotlight as well. People here support fashion. I highly appreciate the patronage and support from Ms. Uschi Fellner and the ladies who are organizers of MQVFW (MuseumsQuartier Vienna Fashion Week). My Italian materials subcontractor always told me that Vienna would be a suitable place for the development of our international activities. To-

Photographer: Robert Rozbora

gether with my brother Robert, I made the business decision to open our boutique and for three years we operated it directly in the center of Vienna. Back then, in 2012, I was personally invited to Paris by Jessica Minh Anh, a fashion show organizer and supermodel, who is also the General Manager of J. Model Management. I presented my collection in the one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s major fashion capitals and represented Austria.

Since then, I have presented every year my collections in Vienna during Fashion Week. What is your advice for people who are now starting a design or styling career? RR: In this profession only talent is not enough. Its share for a future career is about 25%. It is very important to make great use of education, experiences, perseverance, purposefulness as well as responsibil-

ity in daily work and to love your profession. You have to be convinced that the way you have chosen has its place in your life and it is worth to be perseverant despite hardships. I wish everybody who is working in the creative industry all the success on his or her professional path. Thank you! Discover Richardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designs at rozbora.com

Current Obsessions Here’s what we like this season! The Spetses I Shoes by PIETER PETROS Price undisclosed pieterpetros.com

Northwood Purple Rhodium Plated Cufflinks by THE DARK KNOT $45 / €42 thedarkknot.com

Snowflakes Rolling Pin by GOOD WOODY $27 / €25,8 https://www.etsy.com/shop/ GOODYWOODYcompl 64

Flamingo Vinyl Apple MacBook Skin Cover by STYLE MY $22.3 / €21,05 stylemy.com.au

Washington Socks by SOCIETY SOCKS $9.9 / €9,3 mysocietysocks.com

Personalized Christmas Gift by KASA DESIGN STUDIOS $6.4 / €6 https://www.etsy.com/shop/KasaStudioDesigns

STYLE GUIDE

6 Advantages of Renting Clothes and Accessories

verybody wants to have a big wardrobe, full of unique items and to constantly purchase new items that will complement their current clothes. This process can be expensive and it might make your closet so full that you will get lost in it. It is important to have a versatile wardrobe that showcases your preferences, taste and personality! Today, however, we want to focus on a very interesting aspect of the fashion world: renting clothes and accessories. In this AC guide, we will be looking at five advantages of why you should give such a service a try! This being said, note that we do not encourage you to have all your items rented! We believe that you should own the core of your wardrobe: it is very important to have items you can always rely on and which you should know that they are always ready to 66

use and in perfect shape. This gives you emotional comfort and saves a lot of time! There are a lot of reasons why you should rent accessories from time to time, and even bigger pieces of clothes. Here are our six main arguments:

The provider makes sure that the items are in a good state You might think that renting cloths is like borrowing second hand clothes, but that is not the case. Most rental clothing providers make sure that the clothes they give out are in great shape and that they offer a good service. These services work like real businesses and generally the owners want to make sure that the customer comes back. A business that has no returning customers usually fails to stand the test of time. Most businesses succeed from the word being passed around, so they want

to make sure that you will be offered quality services

The provider makes sure that the items are in a good state Renting out cloths is a great way to make sure that your wardrobe or your accessories drawer will never be too full and that you will always have something new, without thing piling up. Closet organizers usually say that if you have not worn something within the last 12 months, you should throw it out! Renting out ties or accessories is a great way to make sure you don’t have to raid your own wardrobe in the search of what needs to be kept and what doesn’t.

You will always have something new

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Ties and accessories are great ways to style up your outfits. We said earlier that we think that it’s really important to have a wardrobe of your own, that reflects your style and personality and to which you can always go to for a complete outfit. Accessories are more flexible and renting out some will make the same clothes look differ-

ent or appropriate for a different occasion. Wearing the right accessories can really make an outfit. Wearing new accessories every time you go somewhere is sure a mark of personal care and attention to detail. Some services that rent clothes and accessories have an option where one is allowed to purchase items as well. This way, if you really like an item and wish to own it, you can do that.

You will avoid impulse buying Some shopping advisers claim that you shouldn’t buy something the moment you see it. Let it stay on your mind, and, if you really think about it a while after you’ve seen it,

you should go ahead and purchase it. This is where rental ties and other accessories come in very handy. You can receive a few items you like, wear them for a while and send them back. There’s no need to buy every shirt or tie you like just for a moment.

It’s not very expensive Renting fashion items can be a lot cheaper than actually purchasing new items every time you need something that is not a “must”. This way, you will save money, which we recommend that you invest in your “permanent collection” or in something else you like.

You don’t need to buy something you are only planning on wearing just a few times Unless it’s a special piece which you want to have in your own collection of items, there is no point in buying an item you won’t wear more than twice. Of course, some things get to have sentimental value and you should own those, but other than that, renting out items is the best way to go. We know from experience that men often want to wear a very special tie or jacket, but hesitate to buy it because they know they won’t wear it anytime soon again.

Of course, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s up to you in the end to decide which pieces need to be owned and which can be rented out, but we wanted to bring to your attention the fact that you can have a rotating or partially rotating wardrobe and that there are alternatives to classic shopping! In the end, your style should reflect your personality and there are a lot of ways in which this can be achieved.

Rule #43: Always pay attention to the details

attireclub.org

FASHION AND CULTURE

FUNNY

FASHION LAWS FROM AROUND THE

WORLD

The world is full of laws that are strange and sometimes very funny at the same time. Clothing and fashion also have their bizarre laws that were given a long time ago and, even though many of these weird laws are repealed, some are still on the books. While some laws donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make much sense, others make you think of the event that caused these laws to appear. Here is a collection of strange yet funny laws from around the world relating to clothes, fashion, grooming, etiquette and more!

Clothing and fashion 1. In US state Alabama, there is a law that forbids men from wearing a funny fake mustache to church. 2. Another law in Alabama claims that it is illegal to carry an ice cream cone in your pocket at any time.

5. Speaking of bathing suits, to swim in the ocean at Brighton Beach in Australia, one must have a neck-to-knees swimsuit. 6. Another law from Australia states that it is forbidden to go out on the streets wearing black clothes, felt shoes and black shoe polish on your face. These are considered to be the tools of a cat burglar. 7. Also, in Victoria, Australia, women are not allowed to wear hot pink pants after midday on Sundays. 8. In South Africa, young people wearing bathing suits need to keep a distance from each other of at least 12 inches 30.4 cm. Next time you go to the beach in South Africa, remember to bring your tape measurer! 9. In Thailand, a law says that you may not leave your house without wearing underwear. How do they know?

3. In Castellammare di Stabia, which is small town south of Naples, Italy, the mayor has ordered the police to fine women who show too much cleavage or who wear miniskirts. He received a lot of criticism, but anyone who was showing too much skin could be fined up to â&#x201A;Ź300 / $395. 4. On a similar note, in America a woman is not allowed to wear a bathing suit on a highway, unless she is accompanied by at least two police offers or is armed with a club. 72

10. Another Thai law claims that one must always wear a shirt when driving a car. 11. A law in Fargo, North Dakota (USA) claims that a person who is wearing a hat when they are dancing or is present at an event where people are dancing can be jailed for their act. There is no law saying the same about pants. 12. North Dakota seems to be a state filled with funny fashion laws. In this US state, it is illegal to lie down and fall

asleep with your shoes on. 13. Speaking of shoes, a law from Portland, Oregon states that one needs to tie his shoelaces while walking down the street. 14. A law in Cleveland, Ohio makes it illegal for women to wear patent leather shoes in public so that they don’t give a gentleman an unintentional peek show. 15. South Dakota also has some great fashion laws. Here, a horse is not allowed to enter Fountain Inn unless it’s wearing pants. 16. In Paris, a law from 1799 states that women who want to “dress like a man” and wear trousers; “must obtain special permission from the police” first. Who knew? 17. A city in US state Arizona makes it illegal for men to wear suspenders. 18. In Britain, it is technically illegal to stand within 100 yards / 91.4 meters from a ruling monarch if you are not wearing any socks.

wearing their housecoats. 22. In Switzerland, you are not allowed to hang your clothes outside to dry on Sundays.

28. If you are a man with a mustache in US state Iowa, you may not kiss a woman… in public. How about another man?

23. In Washington State, USA painting polka dots on an American flag is illegal.

29. Speaking of kisses, a kiss is not allowed to last more than five minutes in the USA, and in France you are not allowed to kiss on railroads. That’s fair…

24. A Wisconsin law makes it clear that people who look offensive may not go out in public. Isn’t offense in the eye of the beholder?

Grooming, etiquette and everything else 25. In US state Florida, it is considered an offence to take a shower naked. 26. Speaking of nudity, in Minnesota there is law that forbids sleeping naked.

30. In the UK, an 1837 law says that a woman is allowed to bite off a man’s nose if he is kissing her against her will. 31. However, women don’t have it all so good in the UK, as it is illegal for a woman to eat chocolate on a public conveyance. 32. In US state Nebraska, a mother may not give her daughter a perm without a state license.

19. Remaining in the UK, a 1313, makes it illegal for anyone to enter the Houses of Parliament wearing a suit of armor. 20. In California, there is a law that says that you cannot wear cowboy boots unless you own at least two cows. 21. A US federal law claims that women may not drive

27. In Indiana, you are not allowed to take a bath between October and March.

33. If you are getting your hair done in Florida, you are not allowed to fall asleep under the dryer.

43. In the USA, if you bite someone with your natural teeth is considered “simple assault”; white biting someone with false teeth is “aggravated assault”.

34. In Michigan, according to the state law, a woman’s hair is her husband’s propriety, so she has to obtain his permission before altering it. 35. A law in Omaha states that a man is not allowed to run around with a shaved chest. Walk, yes, run, no. 36. In New York, it is illegal to greet someone by putting your thumb to your nose and wiggling your fingers.

44. And to top it all off, a law from Alaskan capital Juneau says that if you own a flamingo, you may simply not allow it to go to a barber shop. As you can see, these laws are not taken seriously because they simply do not apply to modern living. However, they are a great window to the mentalities of the 18th and 19th century and to the way people solved issues within their communities.

37. In Vermont one is not allowed to whistle underwater. 38. In Waynesboro, Virginia, it is illegal to tickle women. 39. Speaking of laughing, in Idaho, you may not be seen in public without a smile on your face.

41. In New Jersey, it is illegal to frown to a police officer. 42. Another NJ law states that it is illegal to annoy someone of the opposite sex. Apparently, people in New Jersey are very sensitive. 74

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40. If you want to make a grimace, note that in Illinois and Oklahoma, it is not legal to make faces at dogs.

Rule #23: Always find the right fit for you attireclub.org

TRAVEL AND CULTURE: TRAVEL ALPHABET

for the

Danube

The Danube river is the second-largest river in Europe. It is an important transport route, the habitat of many species of fish, the source of water for millions of people and the source of inspiration for artists, as well as a destination for tourists.

Photos: Attire Club 76

The Danube crossing Bratislava

An Austrian ship on the Danube in Vienna, Austria

The Danube in History SOME OF THE EARLIEST human cultures actually lived in the proximity of the Danube River - in its basin.

ANCIENT GREEKS used to navigate up the Danube from the Black Sea, as far as todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Iron Gate in Romania. Later, as the Romans developed river transport, many cities appeared along the Danube.

IN THE MIDDLE AGES, goods were moved on the Danube either by boat or barge or along its banks, which fostered development of the Habsburg and Hungarian empires. BETWEEN THE 14TH AND 19TH CENTURIES, the Ottoman Turks had a hard time with the Hungarian and later Austrian (Habsburg)

Empires for control of the Danube; the river formed the Ottoman Empireâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s northern border for centuries. FEW PEOPLE KNOW that there are many shipwrecks on the bottom of the Danube, most from WWII.

The Danube under a bridge in Bratislava, Slovakia

The Danube in Culture

“AN DER SCHÖNEN BLAUEN DONAU”, Op. 314 (German for “By the Beautiful Blue Danube”), known in English as “The Blue Danube” is a waltz by the Austrian composerJohann Strauss II. Strauss composed it in 1866. THEREFORE, IN 2016 the waltz celebrates its 130th birthday.

THERE ARE SEVERAL UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES in the Danube River region. These are: • In Austria: Historic Centre of Salzburg; Schönbrunn Palace; Wachau Cultural Landscape; Historic Centre of Vienna

• In the Czech Republic: Historic Centre of Cesky Krumlov; Historic Centre of Prague • In Germany: Old Town of Regensburg

• In Hungary: Budapest / Danube Banks; Early Christian Necropolis of Pécs (Sopianae) • In Romania: Danube Delta; Villages with Fortified Churches in Transylvania. YRead this article with a song!

THE DANUBE SCHOOL or Donau School (German: Donauschule or Donaustil) was a circle of painters from

the first third of the 16th century in Bavaria (Germany) and Austria (mainly along the Danube valley). Many also were innovative printmakers, usually in etching.

A harbour on the Danube at the border between Bulgaria and Romania

The Danube in Society TODAY, AROUND 20 MILLION PEOPLE rely of the Danube River for their drinking water.

produced in the Danube region include Grüner Veltliner, Roter Veltliner, Riesling, Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch.

THE DANUBE RIVER VALLEY is home to many world-class wines, and viticulture here goes back almost 2,000 years. The valley’s prime winegrowing areas include among others Wachau, Kremstal, Traisental, Kamptal and Wagram. Wine varieties

THE DANUBE RIVER is often used for leisure boating and travel cruises. There are as many as 70 cruise ships between Vienna and Budapest alone and many more between Vienna and Bratislava, on which people can have lunch and have fun.

THE DANUBE one of Europe’s most important landmarks. The river is so present in European society that it has been featured in Greek legends, Romanian folk songs, and hundreds of modern-day novels. THE DANUBE is lined by hundreds of bicycle trails and walking paths, making it a popular place among Europeans and tourists.

The Romanian town of Sfântu Gheorghe, where the Danube meets the Black Sea

The Danube in Geography THE DANUBE RIVER IS EUROPE’S second-longest river, after the Volga River. It measures 2.860 km / 1,785 miles. THE DANUBE is the longest river in the European Union. IT CROSSES 9 COUNTRIES. These are: Austria, Romania, Bulgaria, Slovakia, Hungary, Ukraine, Croatia, Germany and Serbia. FOUR CAPITALS lie along the Danube. These are: Vien-

na (Austria), Bratislava (Slovakia), Budapest (Hungary) and Belgrade (Serbia). THE DANUBE HAS ITS SPRING in Donaueschingen, which is in the Black Forest in Germany.

THE MOUTH OF THE DANUBE is the Danube Delta in Romania. In the Romanian town of Sfântu Gheorghe the Danube meets with the Black Sea, creating beautiful square waves. THE DANUBE RIVER’S TRIBUTARIES include riv-

ers such as Iller, Lech, Altmuhi, Naab, Regen, Isar, Inn, Enns, Morova, Raba, Vah, Hron, Ipel, Sio, Drava, Vuka, Tisza, Sava, Timis, Great Morava, Caras, Jiu, Iskar, Olt, Osam, Arges, lalomita, Siret, and the Prut. AROUND ONE-THIRD of the Danube River passes through Hungary’s borders.

Fashion Ahead Wear the Internet with The

Bright BMBR Smart Jacket by ThisPlay

New York fashion brand Rochambeau, 2016 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist, has created a digital jacket designed to offer its wearer a unique experience in the city. The brand collaborated with Avery Dennison and Evrythng in the frame of their “Born Digital” partnership and developed the “Bright Bmbr” jacket.

For further information visit this-play.com

The jacket is equipped with secret chips and QR-codes that give the wearer access to exclusive Internet content. This basically means that the wearer can use his own smartphone to interact with the technology incorporated inside the jacket. The Bright Bmbr jacket is able to give one tips on city events and places to see such as art

galleries, fashion events, restaurants and art galleries. It’s all about exploring a secret world in order to have a fantastic experience. Laurence Chandler, founder of Rochambeau, said: “We started Rochambeau as an outlet for creative expression and artistic collaboration. We can’t think of a more

amazing way to do this than to create beautiful garments with culture and connectivity stitched into the very fabric of the item. We’re excited about designing more Rochambeau products which are born digital.” Discover the BMBR jacket at rochambeau.nyc 83

FASHION AND TECHNOLOGY: IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Fashion Designer & Innovator

Anke Domaske

Anke Domaske is the founder of the QMilk company, which produces garments from milk protein. It all began when Anke was searching for chemically untreated clothing for her stepfather who was struggling with serious health problems. Fibers made from milk proteins became her interest and in April 2011 she started her brand focusing on developing clothing made from raw and renewable materials. In this interview, Anke discusses the techniques of turning milk into clothing, the merge of fashion and technology and what she thinks will be the next big thing.

“I think it is sad that fashion has become a waste product” You discovered that you could develop materials from milk protein out of need for materials that had not been treated chemically. How can your fabrics help people? Anke Domaske: There are more than 6 million people in Germany alone that suffer from neurodermitis. 1 kg of fabrics needs at least 1 kg of chemicals only for the dying. The idea was to create a chemical free fiber, to avoid many triggers of allergies. The reason was that my step dad suffered from a textile allergy and we couldn’t find for him anything to wear. That’s why we have thought of an alternative concept.

Can you explain in a few words how you actually create fabrics from milk protein? AD: When milk turns sour, the whey separates from the protein. The protein is dried to a protein powder. Then it is being put into a machine that works like a noodle machine. Then you add water to it and you create dough. At the end you find a spinneret with so fine holes that you don’t receive noodles but fine fibers.

Given that you work in a field that is quite futuristic, how do you see the relationship between biotechnology and fashion evolve in the future? AD: I think it will become a major part. There are over 6 million tons of fibers missing currently in the market and the gap is rising. We have to look for future resources how we can create fibers to fill this gap. Do you think the mainstream is ready for fabrics that are more eco-friendly and clean? AD: I think it is sad that fashion has become a waste product. Hardly anyone sees the 85

Photographer: Anny CK Model: Anastasia Bresler

What do you think will be the biggest developments in fabrics and clothing in the near future? AD: I think smart fabrics from waste streams will be the next development, plus also the

electronically fabrics. It will fill an urgent need. Because our use of textiles is rising and our resources we use currently are endless.

Discover more of Ankeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work and QMilk at qmilk.eu

Where would you like to take QMilk next? AD: We are currently entering the market in different textile fields. We are at the moment happy when we can stabilize the things we have created so far. For us, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lifetime work and it is so much fun discovering the many properties and possibilities the material has.

YRead this article with a song!

effort from a fiber becoming a final piece of clothing. I think there will be always the part of the world that wants the fast fashion, but I do see that there is the opposite movement as well, where it is again about to have clothing for several years and ecologically produced.

Under the Tree Photos: Attire Club

Under the Tree, Darling it’s better, Down where it’s stellar, What a sight you will see!

Riddle me this, riddle me that, watch out boys, ‘cause the reindeers are back!

On the second day of Christmas my true love gave to me two snow globes and more joy than I could see

On the darkest day of winter Through the snowy woods I go But what did I see? A shower of stars Shining right in front of me

Where the bells sing sliently In the middle of the forest There will be our Christmas tree

Wait till the night before Christmas, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;cause thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s when all the miracles glissen

What do I care how much it may snow?

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IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Fashion Designer

Yirko Sivirich

Yirko Sivirich is a Peruvian fashion designer with a charming aesthetic. His garments are on trend, yet many of them can be made part of a capsule collection. Polished and sophisticated, his clothes are perfect for a man who is looking to be sartorially dynamic and unique. In this interview, Yirko discusses his design aesthetic, his inspiration and the Peruvian fashion scene.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I let it up to my customers to decide how to make use of my designsâ&#x20AC;? When and how did your work with fashion begin? Yirko Sivirich: I began working as a fashion designer around eight years ago. First, I created a very commercial brand and in 2012 I decided to release my own label. How would you describe your design aesthetic? YS: The aesthetic of my designs is very focused on tailoring and urban style, seen from a creative perspective. I like to play a lot with cuts and silhouettes, as well as with color palettes and with some prints. What are the major themes and subjects you explore in your designs? YS: I get frequently inspired by my country as I consider that Peruvian culture has a lot 101

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of references and motifs I can use. For me, it’s also a way to show I am grateful for living in Peru. Who is the man for whom you design? YS: He is a man who conceives clothing as a way to expressing his creativity, freedom and lifestyle. For him, dressing well represents part of his personality. I design the clothes and propose the concepts, but ultimately, I let it up to my customers to decide how to make use of my designs and incorporate them in their looks. How do you balance out the artistic and commercial aspect of fashion? YS: After eight years working in the fashion industry, I can

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say that I know what my clients like. So now when I start a new collection, I have to balance my ideas with what would sell commercially. And, fortunately, my clients are very open-minded with their way to see fashion, so that permits me to be more creative. How would you describe the Peruvian fashion scene? YS: Peru is a country with a very rich culture and a great textile tradition. It also has very fine fibers, such as alpaca, vicuña and other camelides. However, we still need to grow a lot with respect to design. Today, there are many Peruvian designers who work to strengthen the local fashion industry and I am proud to contribute to it.

Where do you see yourself in it? YS: I see myself as a Peruvian who works with a lot of passion to contribute to the growth of the fashion industry of his country. How would you describe your work process? YS: I consider myself as a perfectionist and obsessed with the details. I think that’s one of the reasons people recognize my work. Where do you want to go in the future? YS: I would like my work to be recognized internationally. And I’m working on it. I believe that with great effort and passion great things can be achieved.

Discover Yirkoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designs at facebook.com/yirkosivirich 105

THE ATTIRE CLUB MOOD DIARY 106

Our mood board as a visual journal

Locomotive Lithographs The first American locomotive builders’ prints were created in the late 1830s and ‘40s as the industry was seeing not only a boom in products but also an increasing competition among manufacturers. As chromolithography was introduced in the 1840s and ‘50s, these began to order beautiful color prints for their engines in order to attract customers. The results compose a stunning book of bedtime story-like images, with carefully chosen colors to fill the balance of geometric shapes that compose the designs of the locomotives. Here is our collection of mid-1800s Locomotive Builders’ Prints from The Boston Athenæum.

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Wm. Mason & Co. Builders, Taunton, Mass.

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Locomotive for Passengers with Outside Cylinders. Built by the Lowell Machine Shop, 1852 Taunton Locomotive Manf.g Co. Taunton Mass. William A Crocker, Treas. Willard W Fairbanks, Agent

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Wm. Mason, Taunton, Mass. ‘Highland Light’

Portland Company’s Passenger Engine, 1854. Portland, Maine

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Locomotive Engine for Passengers as built by the Lowell Machine Shop, Lowell Mass. 1852

Amoskeag Manufacturing Co. Outside Passenger Engine, Manchester, NH

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Twenty Four Ton Passenger Engine, ‘Gen. Stark’, delineated by Chas F Thomas of Taunton Mass.

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ATTIRE CLUB FLASHBACK

The Attire Club Gift Guide The 2014 Edition

The 2014 Attire Club Gift Guide featured a collection of handpicked products to inspire AC elegantologits in their search for the perfect gift for a man, may it be someone they hold dear or someone from work. 114

Just like the 2014 Holidays Gift Guide, the 2016 edition also featured great gifts for the sartorially-interested, may they be a technical type or a creative or free spirit.

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QR Code Glossary

Discover the websites featured in this issue!

Gagliardi u gagliardi.eu Page 2

Parastie Eyewear u parasite-eyewear.com Page 59

My Fashion S/ash Life u myfashionslashlife.com Page 13

Rozbora Couture u rozbora.com Page 63

Chic FB u chicfb.com Page 24

Pieter Petros u pieterpetros.com Page 64

Haseeb Sultan u haseebsultan.com Page 34

The Dark Knot u thedarkknot.com Page 64

les assorties u lesassorties.com Page 39

Good Woody u https://www.etsy.com/shop/GOODYWOODYcompl Page 64

Sly on the Wall u slyonthewall.com Page 46

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StyleMy u stylemy.com.au Page 65

Society Socks u mysocietysocks.com Page 65

Kasa Studio Designs u etsy.com/shop/ KasaStudioDesigns Page 65

Rochambeau u rochambeau.nyc Page 83

QMilk u qmilk.eu Page 89

Yirko Sivirich u facebook.com/yirkosivirich Page 105

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See you online! attireclub.org facebook.com/attireclub twitter.com/attireclub pinterest.com/attireclub instagram.com/attireclub attireclub.tumblr.com shop@ attireclub.tictail.com

“Sweet dreams till sunbeams find you Sweet dreams that leave all worries behind you” Gus Kahn - Dream a Little Dream of Me

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