A great watch by Undone Photographed by Attire Club
Editorial: The Only Way Up Is Down The way in which we understand the world has a lot to do with our perception of things and, more importantly, with our interpretation of these. If we grasp the idea that most of what we call reality is in our minds, then we may begin to understand that we can make changes to everyday life. Indeed, each of us has the power to make changes to the way they are and feel by changing the way things are perceived. Influencing life can make us fulfill our destinies, which become fulfilled by the power of will. The alternative is fate, which is “monstrous and empty” and this is why, it can be important to aspire to higher vibrations - we need to “turn our bare backs to” the “villainy” of fate - as Carmina Burana makes us understand. Thus, it can be said that we can make changes to the way we feel and to who we are by understanding the world and ourselves. Self-knowledge is essential because we are a reflection of the universe and, the more we understand about ourselves, the more we understand about the universe. The same goes the other way. In this sense, it can be true that everything has a correspondent. Understanding the concept of correspondence allows us to connect the known with the unknown and dig deeper in the exterior world and our interior experiences. When thinking of things like reality and our impact on it, it may be essential to talk about truth. Self-knowledge and universal knowledge are useless if they are not true. In this sense, we all need to take a moment and look in the mirror: a non-space we must cross in order to receive the truth; because, ultimately, only “the truth will set you free”. The Attire Club Team
attireclub.org |
3
InCompanyt AttirehClub Released by FRAQUOH AND FRANCHOMME Chief Executive Officer Dan Dimitriu Creative Director Iosif Trif Write letters to the editor iosif.trif@attireclub.org Visit our website attireclub.org Contact & Advertising office@attireclub.org Address Theresiengasse 50 Top 1 1180 Vienna Austria Telephone 0097 150 12 801 73 Follow us Facebook: facebook.com/attireclub
Twitter: twitter.com/attireclub
Pinterest: pinterest.com/attireclub
Instagram: instagram.com/attireclub
Tumblr: attireclub.tumblr.com
4 | InCompanytAttirehClub
“Handle with Care” Photo: Attire Club
attireclub.org |
5
Contents Spring 2020
Editorial The Only Way Up Is Down Working Principles. u3 Color Stories Black Power or shade? u 10 Trends Acne Studios AI-based interpretations. u 11
Travel Album The Ionian Sea Where does this place take its name from? u 12 Watch Watching Higher & Higher: Raketa The story of a special Russian brand. u 14 In Other Words Song Book Lyrics for anyone. u 19 A Report on the Party and the Guests The 2020 Snow Polo World Cup Get on your ponies! u 20 The Attire Club Digital Library Must-Reads from Our Website Stay up-to-date. u 28
6 | InCompanytAttirehClub
The Estro Edit Aston Martin Helicopters A ride like you’ve never seen before. u 29
Fashion History The History of Color The chromatics of the 1930s. u 32 Style Guide Your 24-Hour Grooming Guide Looking good around the clock. u 34 Metafashion Why Do We Care about These People? The metaphysics of Instagram. u 38 In Their Own Words Blogger Richy Great menswear from Germany! u 42
Philosophy The Value of Things Understanding emotional value. u 50 Travel Alphabet Q for Quebec The French side of Canada. u 52 Current Obsessions Parmigiani Fleurier Edition A collection of exquisite watches. u 54 Watch Watching Zero Hour: Baselworld 2020 The first time the Swiss event was canceled. u 56 Metafashion Mirror Mirror The world of truth. u 64 The Style Map Going on the Road of Fashion Ideas and notes. u 69 attireclub.org |
7
Philosophy The Problem with Art, Beauty and Fashion Creating coherent styles. u 70 Culture Modernity The world today. u 73 Fashion and Technology Co-Founder of Orange Fiber: Innovator Enrica Arena Making textiles from citrus waste. u 74 Value Proposition The Million-Stitch Rolls-Royce A unique RR. u 78 Secrets of Fashion The Prince and the Pauper: Fakes, Knock-Offs and Replicas Almost identical, but still so different. u 80 In Their Own Words Catching Up with Model Shakhboz Makhmudov Are you keeping up? u 83 The Attire Club Mood Diary Our Moodboard as a Visual Journal Bibliotheca Curiosa Chemica. u 84 Cinema Culture The Film Dossier Magic and more magic! u 88 AC World The Attire Club 2019 Style Portfolio: Brandmania Who’s obsessed with Attire Club? u 94 QR Code Glossary Discover the Brands Presented in this Issue Use your phone or tablet to discover the people and brands from this issue. u 96
8 | InCompanytAttirehClub
InCompanytAttirehClub
The Smart Magazine Attire Club is offering a complete men’s style, fashion and lifestyle experience, centered around the AC website. To discover our universe and over 1000 articles that will offer you the tools to develop your style, as well as fashion inspiration and cultural insights and to interact with us and be part of our community, visit us online.
attireclub.org +See our QR Code Glossary at the end of the magazine
C O LO R
S TO R I E S
Black is usually a color that is associated with darkness and sadness. However, many people also see it as a powerful color. When contemplating on this, one can find as a reason for why black is a color associated with power, especially in fashion, that one who masters the darkness is a strong and commanding person. Photos: Attire Club
10 | InCompanytAttirehClub
T R E N D S
Acne Studios presented their autumn-winter 2020 collection in Paris. The departure point for the collection, which was mostly neutral in terms of colors, was artificial intelligence, which was the filter through which the brand reinterpreted many of their older, classic pieces.
attireclub.org |
11
T R AV E L
A L B U M
From the Attire Club Travel Archive
The Ionian Sea The Ionian Sea is one of Europe’s top natural attractions. The long coastlines where the sea and the mountains meet are the home of numerous beautiful cities across several countries and of tourist resorts which have a huge draw each summer. According to Ancient Greek writers, especially Aeschylus, the name Ionian is connected it to the myth of Io (Greek: Ιω). In Ancient Greek, the adjective Ionios (Ἰόνιος) was used to describe the sea because according to a legend, Io swam or flew across it. In most variations of the legend, Io was the daughter of Inachus, the King of Argos and a priestess of the Hera. It was in the Argean planes that Zeus noticed Io, who was a mortal woman, and lusted after her. Photo: Attire Club
12 | InCompanytAttirehClub
From the Online Edition
Attire Club is the ultimate resource for complete style guides, fashion inspiration and cultural insights that provide you with the tools you need for a continuous style development. Geared towards the sharp modern man, Attire Club offers practical “you can do it, here’s how” articles that will make you not only look better, but also feel better and more confident. With a groundbreaking new concept, AC is the essential online publication that brings out the best in who you are.
WATC H
WATC H I N G
Higher & Higher:
RAKETA
A t t i r e C l u b i n Ta l k w i t h D av i d H e n d e r s o n - S t e wa r t Raketa is an old Russian watch manufacturer, which has had a long and complicated history, but always being ahead of the curve in terms of watchmaking. Nine years ago, it was rebranded by David Henderson-Stewart, who saw great potential in it. David had a legal background; he graduated from the Sorbonne and from Oxford University with a Master’s Degree in European Law. Being part of the French bar and activating as a lawyer, he worked in the Moscow branches of French law firms and had no background in watchmaking, but decided to take on this old factory and bring a new wind into it. Currently, the watches offered by Raketa are very fascinating and we wanted to learn more about them and about David’s story, who was very kind in talking to us about the brand and how he turned Raketa into a household name. Going Further
The story of Raketa goes back many years to Soviet times. Many of the watches designed in that period were a reflection not so much of the politics of the Soviet Union, but rather of the technical ambitions this had. In this sense, many of the models that were invented, and which are now remade, were professional watches and were destined for the most interesting of professions, such as polar explorers, astronauts or sailors. Because form follows function, Raketa has become known for its 24hour movements, which are a mandatory feature to have on a watch if you are to go to the North Pole, in space or underwater, where you can’t get the light you would usually see in order to know whether the time indicated by your watch is AM or PM. Because the watches were made with these trailblazers in mind, their aesthetic also combine the roughness and sturdiness of these people with the unique aesthetic experiences they have in the unexpected and rather uncommon places they go. And so, to this day, Raketa watches empower and inspire people in their lives.
14 | InCompanytAttirehClub
Recently, the company has launched a re-edition of the Polar watch, for which they took out all the old watercolor drawings and the hand-made technical sketches, but to which they added slight improvements - for example, the water resistance was improved. “It is a 98% exact copy of the initial model”, David explains. The watch was very well received, especially given that there were not many models left from the initial release. The reason for that, as David explains, is because these were made for a very select group. The new release is produced by the exact factory that made it 50 years ago. What is even more fascinating is that the head of the engineering department is a lady who, at the time of the interview, had celebrated her 80th birthday the day before and she was also part of the team which created the original watch, having the development of the 24-hour movement under her care. This type of continuity is part of the Raketa story. Even though there was a massive regime change in Russia, the factory never actually closed its doors. “Even during
Photo: Attire Club attireclub.org |
15
the most difficult times in the ‘90s, when there was a lot of chaos in Russia, the factory never closed. It never stopped”, David explains. “When I first visited the factory 9 years ago, many old people were working at the factory and some still work here. However, during these 9 years, they have transmitted their know-how to the younger generations. There is a strong continuity in the production and, concerning the design, each model is based on the Soviet design.” The brand is always inspired by its history, but many contemporary watches are remakes or reinterpretations of the watch.
A Complicated History
What is rather intriguing about Raketa is that, while it maintained much of the Soviet design aesthetic, the watches are not political at all. Not even the people in Russia associate them with the communist regime. Maybe the reason for this is because they did not focus on any political events. Yes, they were Soviet and of course, made in the aesthetics of the time, but they were focused (mostly) on the technical achievements of the people and thus told stories that were very personal. Raketa does celebrate these personal stories and does not see them as a collectivist thing, which is perhaps why these watches are so appealing to so many people these days. The
16 | InCompanytAttirehClub
current customers of the brand come from very different walks of life and include many young people who see in the watches a symbol of resilience and power, which they feel they need to put out in their own lives in order to gain great results, regardless of what these may be. Raketa has managed in a way to bridge the ages, but, according to David, “it hasn’t been very easy because when we started, if you talk about the Russian markets, people looked more towards Western brands because for 70 years they had not been allowed to buy Western brands and suddenly they were allowed to. Today, many people remember their roots and think of the fact that their parents and grandparents wore Soviet watches and
they remember that Russia also did interesting things, so they come back to Russian watches. 8 years ago, we were contacted by a Polish distributor, and we were surprised that he wanted to sell Russian watches, but he said ‘look, this has nothing to do with politics, it’s just that we remember that our parents and grandparents wore Soviet watches and we like them.” Today, in many parts of Eastern Europe, there is a cultural shift. A lot of people, especially young people are beginning more and more to celebrate the positive parts of their cultures, of course, not forgetting the negative ones. David was, in a way, part of this movement. Living in Russia, he noticed that there were no big Russian brands that people from around the world like to buy and wear. This was how he realized the massive potential that Raketa had. Russia has a history that is just as culturally charged as France for example, and yet, there are no famous cultural brands coming from it. “Russia has had a chaotic history, which has destroyed a lot of things, but I have always believed that it has the legitimacy to have luxury brands and I started looking”, David recalls, “and soon enough I discovered that Russia had a long history with watches. I found out that there was one factory left in St. Petersburg and, when I went there, I was surprised that they were still making watches by hand, using old-school technologies and that there were people who had all this incredible know-how, but who were fighting to keep the field alive”. It did not come as a big surprise that the factory was not selling too many watches. “A watchmaker is an enthusiast”, David explains, “he is someone who is very passionate about his work and all these people who had continued to work were doing it only through enthusiasm. When I visited, there were only 20 people working there, 15 years before there had been several thousand.” The passion of the watchmakers and their personal involvement in the watches was what drew David to the brand and he decided to learn about watchmaking, as he was not an expert in the field and to rebrand Raketa. The label already had enough personality, that was not the hard part of the process - the difficult task was to convince people that they can enjoy something that is Russian. Odd as it may sound, after 1990, in Eastern Europe and, especially in Russia, many people were ashamed of their countries and cultures because of what had happened and thus, someone like David had to convince people that they can allow the positive aspects of their (recent) past and culture in their lives, as few as these may be. At first, many distributors did not want to sell their watches, as they all wanted only Swiss brands, but little by little things changed. Working with changing mentalities was indeed a hard task for David, who, besides having to convince people that Russian watches are not an embarrassment, had to also convince them that they are also not cheap, bad products.
The Soviet Polar (re-edition) This watch model was originally produced in 1970 for the polar explorers of the 16th Soviet Antarctic expedition. They needed a robust watch on which they could rely totake them to the harshest place on Earth where temperatures can go down to -89°C / -128.2°F. However, being robust was not enough: since this freezing continent is in perpetual daylight or darkness during consecutive periods of 6 months, this watch also needed to allow them to distinguish day from night. The Copernicus The Copernicus watch pays homage to astronomy. Its design is entirely inspired by Copernicus’ theory of the Universe, which led to a fundamental revolution in the science of the 16th century: the Sun lies at the center of the system, and all the planets revolve around it (and not the other way round as had been thought up to then). The big circle (the minute hand) symbolizes the Earth which rotates around the sun in 1 year, whereas the small circle (the hour hand) symbolizes Jupiter which rotates around the sun in 12 years: indeed, the hour hand circles around the dial 12 times slower than the minute hand!
The Seaman The Raketa Seaman is dedicated to all those who love the sea. The word “Raketa” and the figures “0” to “9” are drawn with the flags of the “naval alphabet” used for transmitting messages between ships. The 24 hour dial enables the wearer to use the watch as a solar compass (by pointing the hour hand towards the sun), which is useful if the ship’s electronic compass ceases to work. The watch’s case can resist pressure up to 20 ATM (equivalent to 200 meters / 656 feet below the surface), which makes it completely waterproof. attireclub.org |
17
Going for the Stars
Developing the new Raketa, David also uncovered that there was a tremendous Russian know-how in terms of watchmaking. They did invite many people from Switzerland to come and bring their expertise to the brand, but many times, they did not follow their advice and did it as they knew. The Swiss told them to throw away their old machines and to buy new, Swiss machines, but they refused and many of the old, Soviet machines are still used today. Talk about a time capsule! And so, the Russian watchmakers still use old-school production methods today, instead of programming computers and robots. “We’ve had many people from Switzerland come and they were amazed that we were still doing things the way they were doing them 50 years ago. We’ve even had a journalist come last month, and he said ‘Please don’t change anything’, as he visited the factory”, David recalls. With so much talk about history and heritage, one may fail to see that Raketa is a brand that is also very much looking towards the future and that has generally a very original and personal twist on watches. Many models have something that makes them special. Probably one of the most special watches is the Russian Code, which goes counter-clockwise. For Raketa, this is actually the most normal way to read the dial. Maybe in the future, all watches should show the time like that. The reason why we read watches from left to right is not clear, but the most likely explanation is based on sundials. Back in the day, you would put a stick in the ground and depending on where the shadow would fall, you would know what time it was. Basically, the watchmaking convention was probably established based on the replicating of the movement of the sun and of the shadow. However, this is an illusion: the sun does not turn, it is the planets and moons that turn. The planets actually turn counter-clockwise around the sun and the planets also turn counter-clockwise around their own axes and the Moon also turns counter-clockwise around the The Earth, so basically, the natural movements of the planRussian ets is the counter-clockwise movement. “In that sense”, Code explains David, “it would be more natural to read the time in harmony with the movement of the elements in the solar system. If you project yourself 200 years in time, when we will be living on other planets, you can imagine that when you will visit your relatives on another planet, you will want to have a watch on your wrist that will replicate the movement of the planets you will be seeing from the spaceship.” In the end, Raketa has the idea of space at its core; the brand was
18 | InCompanytAttirehClub
“
founded in 1961 when Gagarin went to space. “It was a shock to everyone”, David says, “everyone was living on Earth and, all of a sudden, there was a man in space.” Thus, the brand is very avant-garde in nature and looks to a bright future. Currently, they are even working on a collaboration with Roscosmos who will provide them with metallic parts for the movement and the case from rockets that have actually been to space. The future looks good for Raketa, as the brand is now taking off and reaching new heights, which the lonely watchmakers of the early 1990s would not have dreamed of. The spirit of the brand is reflected not only in its watches, but also in its stories: strength, determination and style are what have driven Raketa to the forefront of Russian watchmaking.
“
I N
OT H E R
WO R D S
Blanc l’innocent, le sang du poète Qui en chantant, invente l’amour Pour que la vie s’habille de fête Et que la nuit se change en jour
White is the innocent, the blood of the poet Who through singing invents love So that life dresses up festively And so that night may change to day From L’oiseau Et L’enfant sung by Marie Myriam (1977)
attireclub.org |
19
A R E P O RT O N T H E PA RT Y & T H E G U E S TS
The
2020 SNOW 20 | InCompanytAttirehClub
POLO WORLD CUP
Photos: Attire Club
Ready!
2020 started in St. Moritz with a great show, as the classic fireworks show was replaced by a drone show. During the show, the drones formed impressive shapes in the sky, which took the form of the map of Switzerland, of the town’s logo and more. At the end, the fireworks took the shape of a classic fireworks show, indicating the permanent look towards tradition, which characterizes the Swiss. And so, as the small luxury resort was now in the new decade, people turned their focus towards the first major event of the year: the Snow Polo World Cup. As usually, the 36th edition of the tournament had been organized months in advance, but there seemed to be a last-minute issue which had people talking and worried about whether the event would even take place or not. The SPWC is organized on the St. Moritz lake, which needs to be well-frozen for the tournament to take place. However, at the beginning of the month of January, it seemed that the lake was still not frozen enough for the horses to run on it and for so many people to attend the shows, have lunch and visit the polo village. Many people believed that the even would be canceled due to insufficient ice thickness. In the end, after about a week after New Year, it was announced that the ice was thick enough for the event to take place. Now, people could look forward to the tournament and to focus on it. Last year’s edition was one full of interesting events, from Melissa Ganzi being the first woman team captain to win the tournament to the finale being played in heavy snowfall and under really dark clouds. Sankt Moritz prides itself with having over 300 days of sun each year, so
this was definitely not something one would expect.
Set!
And so, on the 23rd of January, a Thursday, the first event of the 2020 Snow Polo World Cup took place. The players’ and sponsors’ presentation was held as usually in the Sunny Bar of the Kulm Hotel, which is one of the top hotels in St. Moritz. This year, the four teams were: Azerbaijan Land of Fire, Badrutt’s Palace, Maserati and St. Moritz, initially announced as the de Grisogono team, which was the newly-formed team. Team Azerbaijan Land of Fire was composed by team captain Elcin Jamalli, Pato Bolanteiro, Agustin Kronhaus, Santiago Marambio and Rashad Hasanov and Ali Rzayev as reserves. Badrutt’s Palace was once again led by Melissa Ganzi; the other members being Juan Bautista Peluso, Nic Roldan (who is also a model and has also represented Piaget) and Alejandro Novillo Astrada. Team Maserati was helmed by Turkish player Kutlay Yaprak and also consisted of Switzerland’s own Fabio Meier as well as Argentinians Adrian Laplacette jr. and Valentin Novillo Astrada. Finally, the new team had Russian player Valery Mishchenko as team captain and consisted also of France’s Robert Strom, Max Charlton and Santiago de Estrada. As usually, there was an eclectic mix of player from all over the world. Some players of the tournament had played on the frozen lake of St. Moritz before, while others were present at the event for the first time. The umpires for the games were Oliver Ellis, Tim Keyte and attireclub.org |
21
22 | InCompanytAttirehClub
attireclub.org |
23
Marcelo Garrahan. Jan-Erik Franck once brought his great commentary and wit to the games. On occasion, he would pass the microphone to Tito Gaudenzi, polo player and son of Reto Gaudenzi, who is known as the Godfather of Snow Polo. The music was once again brought by DJ Mike.
Go!
St. Moritz is the place where the concept of modern winter tourism was born. Many innovations in terms of hospitality and travel appeared here and a lot of winter activities have their roots in the Swiss resort town. One of these is snow polo, the winter version of the noble game, which was started back in 1985 by Reto Gaudenzi. In 2020, once again, the land of champagne, fur and snow brought together many of the world’s glamouratti who enjoyed a series of fun polo games while sipping on Perrier-Jouët and enjoying great food. The tournament drew record crowds, as the weather was very sunny and warm and thus, just the right setting for an entertaining and relaxing weekend activity. The polo matches were as usual quite intense, with the four teams battling it out on the lake. What many don’t know is that there are a few differences between regular polo, which is played on grass and snow polo. For example, the snow polo field is somewhat smaller than a grass polo field - which
24 | InCompanytAttirehClub
gives the spectators the impression that they are very close to the action. The ball with which the games are played is larger than a regular polo ball and is lighter, which makes in some ways more unpredictable, especially given that every once in a while, the wind would blow over the frozen lake. The snow, which can break or become uneven also makes the game more unpredictable. After two days of exciting games, the final was disputed between team St. Moritz and team Azerbaijan Land of Fire. Ultimately, the winning team was team St. Moritz, with a final score of 4-1 ½. Besides from the coveted cup, the team members also received Chopard Mille Miglia watches, which were presented by Evelyne Sutter, Manager of the Chopard Boutique St. Moritz and Marijana Jakic, Brand Manager St. Moritz. Fabio Meier was named Best Playing Patron and the award for Most Valuable Player went to Max Charlton, who was offered a Chopard Alpine Eagle St. Moritz Edition. The event was completed by VIP luncheons on the frozen lake, black tie dinners and late-night dance parties at the King’s Social House at Badrutt’s Palace. In the end, in St. Moritz, during the SPWC there are all the details that make the experience remarkable: the sport, the food, the champagne, the people, the fashion, the diamonds, the cars… Everything together creates a unique atmosphere that is quite hard to match and that you won’t find anywhere else.
attireclub.org |
25
26 | InCompanytAttirehClub
attireclub.org |
27
T H E
AC
D I G I TA L
L I B R A RY
AttireClub.org Blog Must-Reads In case you missed some articles from our website, you can catch up with them here! Just scan the QR code and you will be directed to our website where you can read the posts!
The Duality of Paris Fashion Week Men Autumn-Winter 2020 Milan Fashion Week Autumn-Winter 2020: A Hopeful Event What’s Happening at London Fashion Week (Autumn-Winter 2020)? The Evolution of Men’s Fashion Trends in the 2010s The One Rule You Should Know about Mixing Patterns The Different Types of Jeans Cuts Briefs, Boxers, Boxer Briefs: Is There a Best Choice? Choosing the Right Eyebrow Shape for Men The Guide to Casual Suits Creating Proportions: Lapels, Ties and Collars A Critique of Fashion and Fetishism Hopes for Fashion 3 Wedding Fashion Tips for Grooms Future Trend: Exciting Fashion Shows The Different Types of Sneakers: A Practical Guide 28 | InCompanytAttirehClub
The Estro Edit q Aston Martin and Airbus Launch the ACH130 Aston Martin Edition The ACH130 Aston Martin Edition is the first offering from the recently-announced collaboration between Aston Martin Lagonda and Airbus Corporate Helicopters. The helicopter was released in January in Courchevel in the French Alps with four unique Aston Martin signature designs available. The ACH130 features interior and exterior designs created by the car brand, which come in four external liveries with complementary interiors. In this sense, the helicopters are embellished with Aston Martin signature elements, starting with the iconic Aston Martin wings, which are embossed onto luxury leather features, positioned throughout the cabin. Each helicopter produced will have a plaque on the instrument panel which will show the partnership logos, the edition number and, upon request, the owner’s name. Aston Martin Vice President and Chief Creative Officer, Marek Reichman, said: “We have our own set of automotive design principles but in recent years we have been learning how to apply our principles to other areas of design, such as architecture, motorcycles and now helicopters. This first application of our design practices to a helicopter posed a number of interesting challenges but we have enjoyed working through them. Beauty is of vital importance to Aston Martin and to our customers and we think the ACH130 Aston Martin Edition is an inherently beautiful machine. It provided a wonderful canvas for our team to work on so we now look forward to seeing everybody’s reaction.” Frédéric Lemos, Head of Airbus Corporate Helicopters, added: “The ACH130 Aston Martin Edition is optimally positioned in the market for hands-on owners who draw satisfaction from personally piloting their aircraft and it generates strong brand-loyalty. In the same way Aston Martin’s products are cars for drivers who relish being at the wheel and they inspire a comparable attachment to the brand. So they are the perfect partner for us in developing this superb new ACH130 Aston Martin Edition.” The final purpose of the helicopter was to combine the values and aesthetics of the two companies and to thus offer their customers a state-of-the-art product they will enjoy. The ACH130 will be available, of course only on request.
Photos: Aston Martin
attireclub.org |
29
#
From AC’s Social Media
Attire Club is 360 degrees experience and our readers can stay updated with us on every major social media platform, where we share articles, photos and more!
FA S H I O N
H I S TO RY
The
Historyof Color: The 1930s
When analyzing the history of fashion and art, one will discover that each period of time had a specific color palette that was strongly tied to the events of those times and, of course, to the mentalities those events created. The 1930s were in many ways a decade marked by troubled spirits and agitation, as the great depression took its toll on the lives of many and political disaster started to make their way throughout Europe. The rise of fascism and the American dark blizzards all shaped the way people thought, created and dressed. And, while it can be for sure said that every color was present in every decade of history, there were a few colors, and even more nuanced, shades, that defined the entire visual landscape of the 30s, from clothing to postcards and posters and from buildings to plates and napkins.
32 | InCompanytAttirehClub
T
he 1930s were marked by color palette that was muted, soft and, above all, dusty. Most of the colors that can be seen in this decade were misty and chalky. Gentle hues of mauve and lavender, as well as shades like seafoam or cornflower were some of the defining visual cues of these times. The most popular color of the entire era was purple, with a wide variety of shades being used in clothing and graphic design. From shades like amethyst to orchid and from lilac to eggplant, purple was everywhere. The fact that these colors were dusty and muted definitely came as a reflection of the atmosphere of the time, which was one of worry and intense seriousness. The colors themselves, which are highly calming colors, were a reaction to everything that was going on. People in those times were looking for peace and tranquility and tried to find it wherever they could. Travel posters in particular featured highly calming colors, with serene shades of purple, teal and orange. In fashion, this gentle palette was at home especially in women’s fashion, of course. Besides purple, seafoam was another widely used color, which sometimes appeared in highly saturated tones, while at other times in very light ones. Unlike purple though, seafoam was very much used in household items, such as curtains or wall paint. The combination of purple and seafoam was also often met, and it can be said that it is a signature combination of the decade.
was a powdered blue, which almost read as gray. Blue was also paired with the other key colors of the decade, but also with beige, which was frequently featured in shades such as flaxen, maize, ecru or even in a honey hue.
The 1930s saw a return to extreme femininity (when it came to women’s clothing), so it is of no surprise that pink was also a widely spread color. Now, unlike in other decades, pinks were not very much worn by men who stuck with browns and the dark greens that are so characteristic of these times. It was the 30s when “Schiaparelli pink” appeared, which today is simply called “hot pink”. This color was used mostly for high fashion garments and only towards the end of the decade it started to gain more popular traction. And, speaking of pink, a popular combination that went throughout the 30s was composed of pink and seafoam, but not the strong, fresh, bold, highly saturated pink and seafoam shades we see in the 1950s, but rather in calming tones that were, again, very muted and dusty. Another popular color combination of the 30s was between gold and bronze. While the 1920s were full of silver, the 1930s were dominated by gold and bronze. This combination was most popular in architecture, but it was also present in elegant clothes and accessories and enjoyed by many. This opulent color mix was continued in shades of pearl, which was both rich and calming and was adopted by those who wanted something softer than bold metallic tones. Blue was also used quite often, but it
Interestingly enough, during the 30s, many advertisements, especially for children’s toys or projects and games were highly saturated and featured really bold colors such as red and yellow. However, the biggest presence in terms of bold colors was orange, especially when it was teamed with white or cream. Orange paired with seafoam, lilac or beige gives out a vibe that is uniquely 30s in style. The spread of Technicolor brought towards the end of the decade a shift in the color scheme, as emerald became a key player. From the city of Oz to green dresses in cinema, in 1939 green was the new big thing. 1939 also saw the beginning of a new palette consisting of strong blues and pops of red, which would develop over the course of the next decade. The 1930s were a time of a new propriety. Rules were back and people were keen on them in the hope that playing by the book would lead them out of the troubles of the day. Unlike the 1920s, the 30s were more “classic” and a lot more covered up. Despite this, we owe tanning becoming trendy to the 1930s, as well as palazzo pants (back then known as pajama pants) and cruise collections, which appeared due to those who would travel to the French Riviera during the cold season). The 30s were also the start of the craze of animal prints, as Africa became a strong visual theme and many wore cheetah and other prints. The designs of the 30s are reinterpreted by many designers even today, who rely on the aesthetic of long, thin shiny dresses, puffy men’s pants, subtle prints and color combinations that were characteristic of that decade.
attireclub.org |
33
S T Y L E
G U I D E
Your
24-Hour Grooming Guide It has already entered common knowledge that when we look at a person, we first notice their eyes and overall their face. And there is a good reason for that. You face communicates a lot about your lifestyle and health, which will make people get a quick, but strong impression of you. Thus, if you want to always be on top of your game, it’s quite important to take care of yourself. This is why we have put together an around the clock guide for your grooming routine. Photo: Attire Club
34 | InCompanytAttirehClub
8:00 AM - THE MORNING ROUTINE Some men have a longer morning routine, while others want to keep it to a minimum. Whatever your personal choice may be, taking a shower the first thing after you get up can have a good, invigorating effect. Afterwards, don’t forget to brush your teeth, floss and use mouthwash – this will make you feel more energized. If you are a daily shaver, it’s beneficial to do it after having taken a shower, as this will make the shaving process easier. After the shave, you can apply a toner or another lotion, as your pores are likely still open. Let your face absorb your hydrating lotion or aftershave or a natural replacement. Don’t forget your deodorant and perfume. If you have a beard, you can care for it at this point with a beard oil or brush. After that, take good care of your hair and use a hair styling product of your choice to make sure it stays on point. After eating or before leaving the house, throw some cold water on your face, to make sure your pores close and dust won’t enter them during the day, thus avoiding blemishes or other problems. Alternatively, you can use some sun screen for protection and touch up your face with a bit of foundation. If you’re not used to it, practice on the weekends, as touching up with makeup is a technique that takes some time to master. It may seem a little too much, but those who sweat much or get really oily during the day can truly benefit from it.
12:30 PM - THE TOUCH-UP Sooner or later in the day, maybe before lunch, maybe right after sometimes during the afternoon, you are most likely to need a touch-up or two. The three main areas you should focus on are: your hair, your smell and your make-up. If you have a beard, you can give it a few strokes with a beard comb as well. It’s best not to touch up in public, but rather go to a bathroom or a private room where you can fix your hair and everything else. To do this, it would be necessary to carry with you a small kit featuring a small comb, a small dose of a hair styling product, a small perfume bottle and a concealer and pad, should you have a touch of makeup on. In regards to the perfume, you can either spray it a bit all over or just on your pulses and behind the first two buttons of your shirt. Remember: the stronger the fragrance, the less you need to add on. attireclub.org |
35
18:00 - EYES To look fresh at dinner you can not only redo the three touch-ups you did at 12:30, but you can also use an eye drop to clear your eyes and look fresh and relaxed. Eye drops are supposed to restore natural brightness to your eyes while eradicating any redness you may have from spending long hours working. It’s a great trick, but it may not be recommended to do it every day as your eyes will get too used it and then require a bigger dose over time. It’s best to consult with an ophthalmologist first.
23:00 - EVENING CARE
Needless to say that before you go to bed, it’s crucial to take off everything you’ve put on during the day: foundation, hair gel, etc. This way, your body will be able to rest in its natural state. Don’t forget to brush your teeth and floss. If you want to exfoliate your skin, the evening is probably a good time to do it. Add a night cream (optional) and you are set to go… to bed.
Conclusion: At times, it may seem a bit difficult to invest very much time in your appearance. However, the results will be visible in time, which is why it is definitely worth considering taking care of yourself well. Surely, your daily grooming routine depends on your lifestyle a lot: people living and working in big cities have more elements to face and thus need more care than others. Sometimes, you only need to take certain measures at different times… It all depends on your needs and to the way your body responds to your routine. In the end, it’s about you.
36 | InCompanytAttirehClub
Your Style Is Worth Your While
AttireClub.org
M E TA FA S H I O N
WHY DO WE CARE ABOUT THESE PEOPLE? One of the most popular apps in the world, Instagram is a dance between showing off, overpowered sexuality and depression and anxiety. And yet, this type of social media is a big part of many people’s lives. The question then is, why do we actually care about people who make us so go mad?
38 | InCompanytAttirehClub
I
nstagram is an app that has won the hearts and minds of millions of people from around the world. It can be said that it is actually a world in itself.
Every day, 500 million people use Instagram stories and 1 billion people use the platform every month. Interestingly enough, the gender divide is quite equal, with 48% of users being male and 52% being female. According to a statistic, Instagram is the second-most downloaded free app in the Apple app store. Generally, Instagram is a two-way street: on one hand, people post photos and videos to receive validation and likes and, on the other hand, they use the platform to show their interest in other people (and brands). At its core, IG is all about connection, which may explain the huge success the application has seen. But, putting the commercial success of the app aside, it can be argued that IG as a whole has contributed to the cultural and emotional disaster which social media has become over the last years. If so many people are looking for validation on their phones, it probably means they’re not getting it in real life.
I
nstagram is a colorful place. On it, you can find anything from exciting start-ups to fun places and, above all, the IG influencer. Instagram celebrities are people who have found a tremendous following, sometimes in the millions, mostly based on their looks. Posing in sexy outfits and showing off legs, breasts or chests and backs (depending on the case) brings some people a lot of attention daily. Circumstances where these people feel depressed because they always think they have to provide new pictures and to be hotter than they were the day before, have been widely discussed and the effects these images have on those receiving them in their feeds are now starting to emerge more and more.
I
n many ways, it can be argued that social media is a great idea that has turned - or can turn- into a cultural disaster. It works well to keep up with places, events and brands, but it doesn’t work that well when it comes to personal… interactions. People are comparing their average days with the highlights of someone else’s life, highlights which in many cases are highly produced. And this is where the fascination with Instagram starts. People have become their own mediatic producers or have offered their time, reality show-style to an agency which makes them into “[fake] ideals” who others may want to follow. Influencers are supposed to sell products, but they don’t really do as they don’t have that much of an influence on culture.
W
hether IG ideals have any mirror in daily living is hard to tell. When talking IRL to some influencers, one will notice that many claim to be extremely busy (with being influencers). This situation is a strange one, as it automatically implies a lie. Either those who claim to be busy are extremely busy, in which case they don’t really lead the life of leisure they claim, or they are not busy, which means they lie about being busy. Some don’t have this approach and do it most likely to feel connected with the world or, better said, with other people. And, it can be argued, this is the very core if the IG concept. Social media makes us feel connected to the world and, at the same time, given the stark contrast between daily emotional states of loneliness and depression and a slot machine-type carousel of money, sex and food (all our basic needs); it tends to make many followers feel like they are not part of the world. Sometimes people update their followers on things nobody would actually care about, and yet, the feeling of connection (on the part of the follower) and attention (on the part of the user) make it into a multi-million dollar business. There’s a sadness to Instagram, which is not certain of where it is going to go. If we were to make a movie about the early 21st century, social media and the mechanics behind it as well as the outputs would most likely be at the core of the plot.
S
adly, there is also a type of hypocrisy roaming around Instagram stars. It’s a rather interesting phenomenon which is tied to the idea of “being watched”. Basically, people who follow IG hotties do so because they want to have access to people who are sexy and hot have a high sexual market value. These people adore bring watched and yet, IRL they would not “allow” people who are if lower sexual market value to stare at them. Moreover, they often try to make it seem that their posts about one thing, when in fact they are about something else. If a girl posts a picture about her speaking on her new phone for example and captions it “new phone”, she will make sure to leave a bunch of empty room and then hashtag it #abs #sexygirl #hotgirls, etc. The same goes with men. They caption a post “studying for a biology exam” and the hashtags read #muscles #sexy #cuteeyes #beard #sexymustache... You get the point. The level of self-awareness these people have is amazing. And that’s not a bad thing, but it can turn annoying when they pretend they’re not aware of why people are fascinated with their streams and what they are selling. Besides all of this, imagining a photo shoot for Instagram is fascinating. Shirts come off in the middle of Madrid, breasts are pulled up on the train, people pretend to be sleeping naked in a hotel room while someone goes up on a ladder or a piece of furniture to capture the image from above. People have turned into the producers, PR agents and advertisers of their own lives. And too many times, so-called influencers don’t even sell ads. attireclub.org |
39
T
he decade of the 2000s was the time of reality shows. With the expansion of mobile technologies and social media apps, reality shows have spilled into daily living. Politics and current events all seem to play by the reality TV handbook and with social media; people have turned into both the entertainer and the producers. The product is a world of oddness, which goes hand in hand with the general feeling of estrangement looming in the world.
G
enerally, reality shows end either due to lack of interest or because what happens becomes too harsh and hard to watch. We’re going to have to wait and see the way this melodrama will end or in what it will morph.
40 | InCompanytAttirehClub
I N
T H E I R
OW N
WO R D S
Blogger
Richy
Richy is a German menswear blogger and social media influencer who has a great eye for men’s fashion. We wanted to find out more about him and invited him to answer some questions, which he accepted. Discover our interview with him!
“After I finished school with 18, I felt free and more comfortable to wear what I really wanted to wear” How did your interest in fashion and style begin? I think it started with the movie “Once Upon a Time in America. I was addicted to the style of the mobsters and couldn’t wait till I got my first suit at 14.
What can you tell us about your blog? In one word: developing. It’s still not like I want it and I always have something new in my mind that I want to do.
How has it developed over the years? I had many different styles but always came back to classic menswear. After I finished school with 18, I felt free and more comfortable to wear what I really wanted to wear.
What do you think will be the main trends in blogging in the future? Back in the days, it was enough to just write down what you did during the day. Today it’s getting more and more important to write about real topics.
Do you have any people you look up to stylewise? I really like the styles of “real” people like Blake Scott, Carlos Dominguez and Ben Brewster. But movie characters like James Bond or Harvey Specter can’t be missing from my list either.
What do you think will be the main trends in men’s fashion in the near future? Why? It’s hard to say, but I think natural bright colors will be a big thing this year. We need more positive vibes for the rest of the year. Personally, I wish that the jumpsuit for men will have its come-back.
What are your favorite things to wear? Suit trousers, simple loafers and a light shirt or t-shirt. You can never go wrong with it! How would you describe your personal style? Modern classic. How often do you shop for clothes? Just from time to time; if I like something, I buy it.
42 | InCompanytAttirehClub
What do you want to do in the near future, what are you focusing on? I’ve got a few projects that I’m thinking about. I’ll focus on making progress and I’m pretty sure that I will tell you more about it in the future.
YRead this article with a song!
What brands or designers are you following at the moment? I really like the made-to-measure work of Rooks & Rocks (from Hamburg) and the whole bespoke section of Luca Rubinacci (who is a really funny guy).
What are you currently obsessed with, fashion- and otherwise? At the moment I’m really into true crime podcasts and I’m a bit frustrated about the release change of the new James Bond. Discover Richy’s blog at richyskr.de
attireclub.org |
43
44 | InCompanytAttirehClub
attireclub.org |
45
46 | InCompanytAttirehClub
attireclub.org |
47
48 | InCompanytAttirehClub
attireclub.org |
49
PH I LO S O PH Y
The Value of Things
W
Photos: Attire Club
illiam Butler Yeats said that “we are happy when for everything inside us there is a corresponding something outside us.�
This simple idea is, if looked at with a magnifying glass, a really profound view into our nature as humans, which, in today’s world is a lost one for many. In the past, it was clear that things used to have symbolic value, the more important something was, the more rare and valuable materials it was made from and a lot of craftsmanship was put into it. The crowns of kings were made from the most precious gold and stones, religious artifacts were embellished with the most valuable materials one could get and craftsmen would put hours of labor into intricate models. The same happened with clothes; festive attire was made from special fabrics and was adorned with details for
50 | InCompanytAttirehClub
which one had to put in a lot of work. There was a clear idea that special occasions and special achievements require a physical context that matched them. What people understood back then (and a good group still does today) is that as humans, we are body and soul. Surely, even in the past, many people were told not to look at the material world and they did not, but things of rarity were still appreciated. As we moved into an industrial age, placing value on things started to be seen more and more as a sign of vanity and superficiality. And, while it can be very well argued that it is more valuable to place importance on your inner experiences, this focus has led to a collapse in beauty and value. Surely, many things, things of small value can have a lot of value if we associate them with something. Sometimes, the cheapest of objects can have
the highest value for us if it is connected to a person, emotion or moment. But, in other instances, if you want to express high personal value, achieved in one way or another, would it not be expected to want the best? In this sense, would you not want to wear the best clothes, to offer the most amazing jewelry you can, to be surrounded by things that raise your emotions and, as Yeats said, express on the outside what is on the inside? As an example of this concept, in the baroque era, people used to be tremendously poor and yet, the churches built in that time are overwhelmingly rich. The idea behind them was not to brag about how much money the religious leaders had, but to reflect the strength of the divine and to create in those who would enter the church a spiritual experience. In a time of darkness, an explosion of light and magic would give people hope; it would place something more than this world in front of their eyes. Objects, décor and clothes have always had a symbolic meaning. Surely, it’s not the objects themselves that have the primal value, but they are the expression of an experience. The body is a symbol of the soul. In the first season of the Netflix series The Crown, focusing on the life of Queen Elizabeth II, one of the most important scenes takes place in the 5th episode, when Edward, the Duke of Windsor (Alex Jennings), the man who abdicated his role as king, gazes on a tiny television picture of his niece’s coronation. In his home outside of Paris, the Duke is throwing a party for his guests and comments on the ceremony. “Oils and oaths. Orbs and scepters,” says Edward, “Symbol upon symbol. An unfathomable web of arcane mystery and liturgy. Blurring
so many lines no clergyman or historian or lawyer could ever untangle any of it.” “It’s crazy,” a voice from the crowd says. “On the contrary,” replies the former king. “It’s perfectly sane. Who wants transparency when you can have magic? Who wants prose when you can have poetry? Pull away the veil and what are you left with? An ordinary young woman of modest ability and little imagination. But wrap her up like this, anoint her with oil, and hey, presto, what do you have?” Pause. “A goddess.” And, indeed, so much of the symbolic world within us would be of little importance to the world without its outside expression. Sometimes, as the scene from The Crown teaches us, the “Smoke and Mirrors” (as this is also the title of the episode) can be like the Great Wizard of Oz. Sometimes, it can work backwards too: place much of value on the material and the outside and you will gain a significant change on the inside. This is why, in fashion, some labels are so sought after. Luxury labels express values and people want to be associated with those values and to enter in relations with others based on these. The outside expression of the inside is meant to be a connector. Not so much one with your own self, as you already have the experience embedded in yourself, but as a way of making the invisible visible. In some ways, things are similar to art in that they take something that is ungraspable and make it solid. Sometimes, the smallest of things have the biggest value, sometimes the most expensive and exclusive things are worth close to nothing, but what we cannot ignore is that things do have value. And we should make the best of that. attireclub.org |
51
T R AV E L
A L PH A B E T
The Chateau Frontenac by Bernard Gagnon
Q for Quebec The Canadian province of Quebec is known mostly for being the French part of Canada and for being the home of maple syrup. But there is a lot more to the province than this. Discover our list of facts about the region! liberate the region from the British. The siege was actually unsuccessful, and Quebec did not become the 14th colony. It remained under British rule until Canada became its own country in 1867. QUEBEC CITY, and not Montreal, as some think, is the capital of the province of Quebec. QUEBEC CITY is actually the oldest city in Canada. THE WORD “Kebec” is an Algonquin word, which means “where the river narrows”.
JACQUES CARTIER, a French explorer, landed in Quebec in 1535. However, it was only in 1608 when Samuel de Champlain arrived that a permanent wooden fort and fur trading post were set up. EVEN THOUGH IT IS A FRENCH-SPEAKING PROVINCE, Quebec City is the home of the Quebec Chronicle-Telegraph, a
52 | InCompanytAttirehClub
QUEBEC CITY is the only city surrounded by walls north of Mexico. It has 4.6 kilometers / 2.8 miles Jacques Cartier at Hochelaga, illustration from 1876 of walls. weekly English language newspaper. It was established in 1764, which makes it the oldest surviving newspaper and English newspaper in North America. IN 1775, American troops led by Benedict Arnold tried to invade and take over Quebec City in the Battle of Quebec, with the purpose to
THE SURROUNDING REGIONS of Quebec are “missing” some gravity, as this area has the lowest gravity on Earth. THE POPULATION in 2011 of Quebec City was 516,622. The metropolitan area had a population of approximately 765,706.
The coat of arms of Quebec
The flag of Quebec
ONLY ABOUT 1.5% of the population of the region speaks English. Over 95% of the population is French-speaking, but more than a third of the population can actually speak both English and French. THE CHATEAU FRONTENAC is credited as the world’s most photographed hotel. J.A. MOISAN EPICIER is the oldest grocery store in North America dating back to 1871.
A MAN WAS ONCE FINED $9.4 million and sentenced to 8 years in prison for stealing 3000 tons of maple syrup which cost $18.7 million from the Quebec reserve. Samuel de Champlain on the future site of Quebec City, 1608 by George Agnew Reid (1909)
YRead this article with a song!
IT TOOK QUEBEC EXACTLY 30 YEARS to finish paying for the 1976 Olympics.
The Quebec Conference, Canada, August 1943 Group photograph on the terrace of the Citadel in Quebec, on the occasion of the First Quebec Conference, with the Chateau Frontenac in the background. Front row: President Roosevelt of the United States and the Earl of Athlone, Governor General of Canada; back row: Mr Mackenzie-King, Prime Minister of Canada and the Prime Minister, the Right Hon. Winston Churchill, MP.
attireclub.org |
53
Current Obsessions Parmigiani Fleurier Edition
Parmigiani Fleurier was founded in 1996 by Michel Parmigiani, who had conceived the label back in 1976 through his work of restoring watches and watchmaking artifacts. Today, the brand is considered a high-end company and all Parmigiani Fleurier watches are hand-made. It takes at least four hundred hours to put together one watch. Each piece is constructed only with precious metals and precious or semi-precious stones and only a few thousand pieces are produced every year.
The Tonda Annual Calendar
The Tecnica Ombre Noir
The Ovale Pantographe
The Toric Chronometer Slate
54 | InCompanytAttirehClub
The Toric Quantième Perpétuel Rétrograde
The Bugatti Type 390 Special Edition Geneva Motor Show
The Kalpagraphe Black The Tonda 1950 Tourbillion Blue Abyss
The Tonda Chronor Anniversaire
The Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Slate
YCheck out this feature with a song!
The Toric Chronomètre The Bugatti Aérolithe Performance
attireclub.org |
55
WATC H
WATC H I N G
Zero Hour: Baselworld 2020 The 2020 edition of Baselworld was much expected, as the show had promised a strong renewal. But, as it happened, there was a bigger surprise that the organizers had not predicted. Photos: Attire Club
56 | InCompanytAttirehClub
attireclub.org |
57
New Decade, New Views
The 2019 edition was a cornerstone edition for Baselworld. The negative reviews the show had received for its 2018 edition and the pulling out of many important brands had the organizers decide to reshape Baselworld for the 2020 edition. In this sense, a new CEO in the person of Michel Loris-Melikoff took over BW and the needed changes were obvious, but, as Loris-Melikoff himself said, the 2020 edition would be the real beginning of a new era of Baselworld. The 2019 edition was not as highly attended as the editions before and, while it was still a good event, people felt a bit disappointed with it. Pushing towards 2020, bad news came as Breitling announced that it would not return to the show. But this did not stop the organizers with creating a whole new Baselworld. In August 2019, Watch Advisor put out a video interview with CEO Michel Loris-Melikoff, which was recorded in the empty hall 1.0. Last year, it was said that many brands were allowed to leave their booths over the year there, but now, as the hall seemed empty, we could see a first indicator of a fresh start for the Basel watch and jewelry fair. Moreover, Baselworld also decided to focus more and more on the concept of “community”, rather than on
the concept of “trade”. This could be a good idea, but it’s a bit of a risky one, as casting a net that is too wide can prove itself detrimental in the long run; but that remains to be seen. For the 2020 edition, the date of BW was pushed a lot later in the year, as the fair decided to coordinate with the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva. This way, the SIHH would take place from April 27 to 29 and Baselworld from April 30 to May 5. This way, the people coming for both of the fairs would not have to travel twice to Switzerland in a matter of only three months, as usually, the SIHH was held in January and Baselworld at the end of March. There are many factors that go into deciding these dates, which include the dates of Easter and holidays of other religions, so it’s a tough balancing act. In October, it was announced that the dates were a bit late and that as of 2021, the show would probably move about three weeks earlier, but clear dates would still need to be confirmed. The brands, buyers and the organizers of both fairs need to be comfortable with the date, so this became a fundamental matter to be discussed.
One Day You’re In, the Next Day You’re Out
Baselworld has also announced the creation of a Community District in the show and that it would help jewelry start-ups, for which attending such a big show is usually a rather hard and costly endeavor. Meanwhile, LVMH President Jean-Claude Biver was still undecided whether to return to BW in 2020 or not. In November, Baselworld claimed, that for the 2020 edition, there will be a 50% increase in exhibitors in the “Gems & Pearls” sector. Moreover, it was announced that the sector will be relocated in Hall 2 with exhibitors grouped together on a single level. Other news and changes were announced as well: For example, Maurice Lacroix would have a booth at the show, but the Swatch Group, who left after 2017, would still not return. Other major names that announced that they would not return were Seiko, Breitling and Casio, which has exhibited here over the last years. To compensate, the organizers of the show announced the creation of “The Watch Lounge”, where fifteen indepen-
58 | InCompanytAttirehClub
dent watch brands that previously exhibited in a hotel near the show would present their creations. This space was made to complement Les Ateliers and a redesigned Watch Gallery. The organizers promised that they would focus on experiences and on the community, in order to make the event go with the times. In order to actually be special, the event must indeed offer great experiences which cannot be had online. However, one of the biggest news in terms of brands leaving and especially coming, was the fact that in January, Dolce & Gabbana announced that the company will be present at Baselworld. Alfonso Dolce, CEO of Dolce&Gabbana said: “Baselworld will be an accelerator for our business. Michel Loris-Melikoff and his team were able to listen to our needs by proposing an innovative concept that corresponds to our ambitious development strategy. We are very pleased to join the world’s largest trade show and the largest, broad and unique global community platform, and we will be exploiting every opportunity to take advantage of it.” “We tiptoed into the watch and jewellery industry
knowing it wouldn’t be easy,” explained Domenico Dolce. “The work of researching was long and hard, but it was worth it. It is a very fascinating world in which we have brought our values: the love for craftsmanship, the art of handmade, the attention to detail and the scrupulous choice of materials.” Stefano Gabbana also commented on their participation in Baselworld saying that “this world represents an exciting challenge. Every goal we’ve achieved has taught us that there’s always more to learn, that nothing is impossible when it’s passion that drives everything. Today, we are happy to take part in this important international event.” The announcement that the Milan giant would be part of the show was, as expected, met with both positive and negative comments.
Digital Supremacists
Digital supremacists are what we call the people who are claiming that fairs such as Baselworld are not relevant, given that PR and all communication and promotional activities these days are done online and that the digital world will only expand in the future. This debate is something that surrounded much the BW sphere over the last years and shows the separation that is happening attireclub.org |
59
more and more not just in the luxury market sector in general, but in the fashion and accessories sector overall, as many people seem to believe that everything will move online, while others seem to insist on the physical aspect as well. In many ways, the digital supremacy argument can be combated easily: regardless of the field you’re talking about, whether it is watches, clothes or cars, one still needs to see them in person and to get to talk and meet with the people in the community, rather than enjoying a video on IG. In the end, luxury is about having an experience. Surely, those who don’t like to get involved or who can’t make it to a fair will be happy or respectively, will enjoy receiving online updates - in the end, this is what the digital world should serve as, but the core of life is living. This may sound odd, but if all was digital, how would the world actually look? Wouldn’t the world reach a standstill? The digital watch community is quite different than the “real-life” watch community. On the Internet, people are throwing temper tantrums over fashion watches and see those wearing Daniel Wellingtons as truly sacrilegious. In daily life, people may look down on those wearing
60 | InCompanytAttirehClub
simple trendy watches, but they’re not as perplexed as youtubers are. Online, people tend to take things extremely seriously, even in the watch world.
Developing Stories
In early February, there was a bit of a rumor going around the Internet that Baselworld may cancel or may want to cancel the 2020 edition due to the coronavirus. It was even suggested that, even if there are no real threats to close down the event, the management should use this as an excuse and close the show in order to revamp and rebuild the whole thing. However, this did not seem to be the case, as in mid-February it was announce that Baselworld would host the Phillips in Association with Bacs&Russo auction house. This was not only a premiere, as this was the first auction house to exhibit in a major watchmaking show, but also a sign that the show would go on and take place as scheduled. Also, while BW took a hit by Bvlgari announcing that it won’t come back for the 2020 edition, the watch division of the LVMH Group announced that it would return with its brands TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith.
The Technical Sector’s was announced to double its number of exhibitors with almost 30 major companies returning.
Bad News
Other announcements regarding panel discussions and more were also made. However, at the end of February, as the news about the new Covid-19 fears spread around the world, the Swiss authorities announced that no public event with over 1000 attendees could take place until March 15th. Even so, the Watch and Wonders fair in Geneva (formerly known as the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) announced that it would cancel its 2020 edition, which was scheduled to take place just before the show in Basel. The Geneva Motor Show was also canceled. Soon, Baselworld also announced that it would postpone the show for January 2021. In all of Baselworld’s history, which started over 100 years ago in 1917, 2020 was the first time in which no show was held. A statement from the show read: “For health safety reasons and in accordance with the precautionary principle following the bans of large-scale public and private events issued today by the Swiss federal and cantonal authorities, Baselworld announces that it has taken the decision to postpone the show to Thursday 28th January 2021 to Tuesday 2nd February 2021 (Press Day on Wednesday 27th January), due to concerns related to Covid-19. Baselworld, which was to be held from April 30th to May 5th, 2020, has taken this difficult decision in close consultation with its partners and the health authorities in charge, in whom Baselworld has full confidence for their expertise and recommendations for the benefit of exhibitors, visitors and collaborators. Following today’s official ban on large public gatherings which meant direct repercussions for the show, Baselworld had no other option than to make a decision as all preparations, in particular, construction in the halls and of the stands was scheduled to commence next week (start March). Michel Loris-Melikoff, Managing Director of Baselworld said: ‘We deeply regret having had to postpone the event as planned due to the coronavirus, in full consideration of the needs of the watch and jewellery indus-
try to be able to benefit from the platform to develop their business. This decision has been all the more difficult in view of all the positives that have been achieved through listening and dialogue over the last few months, which resulted in new concepts and new solutions, that have attracted exhibitors to return and new ones to sign on. We registered encouraging growth in all sectors; watchmaking, jewellery, the gemstone and pearl trade, as well as in the technical branch. By postponing the show to January 2021, we have found a solution that enables the industry and all our customers to avoid losing a full year and at the same time reset their calendars for the beginning of the year, a period that is conductive to the presentation of their new products, new trends and order taking. This postponing will also allow Baselworld to continue developing and bringing new formats and solutions as well as improvements to the new concept we propose.’ Bernd Stadlwieser, Group CEO of MCH said: ‘Within the process of the last weeks, I was very impressed by the involvement and trust of all our customers, partners, stakeholders and team, to pro-actively find the very best solution in the interests of the industries. By communicating intensively all together, we were able to work on different scenarios and to jointly decide on the very best one. I would like to thank everybody for their belief in and commitment to our platform.” The news obviously made waves in the watch community, but many people agreed that it was the safe way to go. In fact, even if there had been no real fear of any disease, people would have still been weary, which would have had a negative impact on the overall atmosphere of the show, and thus, it would not have been a positive experience for many.
External Affairs
All the talk around Baselworld and all the current affairs almost made the news about Baselworld giant and attireclub.org |
61
Overall, the watch industry is in a rather bleak state. In 2019, in Switzerland, there were 3 million watches less produced than the year before.
red carpet favorite de Grisogono blended in with the background. What happened was that the high-end jewelry brand filed at the end of January for bankruptcy in Switzerland, soon after reports connected it to shell companies controlled by Isabel dos Santos, the daughter of Angola’s former president, and her husband, Sindika Dokolo. The company told media outlet JCK that “without financial support from the current shareholders and without a new investor, unfortunately, the company cannot continue as a going concern.” Later, de Grisogono USA, the American branch of the Swiss luxury brand, also filed for bankruptcy. The bankruptcy filing estimated de Grisogono USA’s assets at $1 million - $10 million and its liabilities as $10 million - $50 million. According to the filing, the company’s revenue was $1 million in 2019, $1.01 million for the year 2018, and $150,408 from January 1 until February 12. In other stories, Seiko, which had announced that it would not attend Baselworld, but hold its own event in Japan, also canceled this project, which also marked the 60th anniversary of Grand Seiko. Some brands announced that they would hold a smaller event called the Geneva Watch Days, but that their intention is not to replace Watch and Wonders.
62 | InCompanytAttirehClub
It is possible to propose a theory that the watch industry is facing such a decline because it has become so big. There are so many brands and watch models produced at such a fast pace that in a way it has taken out a bit of the exclusivity of the community. We’re seeing the same thing happening in the fashion industry with many brands expanding their portfolios and losing their exclusivity or simply going against their customers’ wants and needs in order to appease the political desires of Internet pressure groups. Troubled times, as the ones we are going through more and more, also call for less interest in luxury goods. In the context in which we find ourselves, many people are asking themselves whether there is really a need and a future to major watch events such as Baselworld. Our answer is yes, these events are very needed. Luxury brands and generally watch brands should always connect with their customers, distributors and with the media, otherwise, everything can become an online bubble, where nothing is at it seems. The announcement that Baselword 2020 would be “postponed” most likely involves that all arrangements will remain in place, not that there will be two editions of the fair in 2021. Regardless, the management of Baselworld has a tough few months ahead. Expectations for the 2021 edition are extremely high; as it is clearly the time for a big change.
LievArts.com
Seeing Sounds
M E TA FA S H I O N
Mirror Mirror: The World of Truth
M
irrors are daily objects that are so common that we feel as if they are part of the everyday landscape and hardly notice them as the fascinating objects that they are. But, besides their practical aspects, which allow us to observe ourselves and the world behind us, mirrors also have strong symbolic meanings, as reflected in myths, stories and art. Diving into the world in the mirror is a fascinating and complex journey that will change the way one sees the world. In art, mirrors appear everywhere, from folk tales and paintings to modern cinema and books. In commercial contexts, they are often associated with the world of fashion and style, given that most of the times we use them, we check how we look, whether it is before leaving the house or when we pass by a shop window on the street.
A Bar at the Folies-Bergère by Édouard Manet (1882)
To have a better understanding of the symbolism of mirrors, we need to look at the concrete, practical aspects they serve. In day to day life, mirrors are supposed to show us how something is so that we take the necessary measures to adjust it (if necessary). Thus, we don’t need our mirrors to lie to us, except in the context of a Monde à l’Envers (and upside- down world), such as a carnival or funfair.
I
n short, we want mirrors to tell us the truth. And so, the decoding of the symbolic meaning of mirrors becomes easy. Mirrors are truth-tellers. This is why, the probably the most famous mirror in art is the magic mirror in Snow White, who, regardless of what it may want, cannot lie and always has to tell the truth, no matter how upset the Queen may be.
The Matrix (1999) Alice in Wonderland and Through the Looking-Glass by Lewis Carroll
M
irrors are common mofits in many arts. The stepping of Alice through the looking glass is probably one of the most known entrances into the world of truth and of the initiates. This moment has been reproduced many times in cinema, one of the most famous stepping -into-the-mirror moments being in The Matrix. Speaking of cinema, this field is extremely full of mirrors: from the scene in Van Helsing where they step into the mirror and enter another world
64 | InCompanytAttirehClub
Superbia by Jacob Matham (attributed to), after Hendrick Goltzius, (1585 - 1589)
to Andrei Tarkovsky’s 1975 Зеркало (Mirror) film, the silver screen (an expression which also slightly relates to the concept of mirror) has plenty of mirrors to talk of. An interesting one is the mirror in Harry Potter, which shows people their wildest dreams but, at the same time, makes them lose their minds and become complacent: it’s not a motivating mirror and it leads to destruction rather than to success. It’s quite hard to make out why this mirror is the way it is, not to mention that, at least in the first film where it appears, it doesn’t play a big role. Maybe it’s because Harry Potter is a Monde à l’Envers? The myth of the Medusa is also a very famous mirror-related story: the horrible character, once it saw itself would destroy itself - this is not just an allegory for the hardness of bearing the truth about oneself, but it can also be seen as a very subtle image of Hell. If, in another dimension, truth and justice overlap, then all the things one did come back at that person, like the idea of karma also proposes.
O
ne can’t think of mirrors and not think of the creatures that do not have reflections: vampires. Symbolically speaking, vampires are very interesting creatures, and they represent a certain type of human (maybe more?). Vampires represent the people who suck on the blood of others in order to exist, they fear light and live among the dead. People who always need to drain others for their own purposes are usually people who are not surrounded by much dynamic living and, as it may happen, more often than not, they really fear any light being shed on themselves and their actions. Thus, it can be argued that such people don’t really have existences. Thus, their true selves are non-existent and, as such, vampires don’t have reflections in the mirror.
M
irrors are not just about objects and telling the truth; they also represent the idea of duality and of action and reaction. In this sense, we have the idea of twins, who are often seen as a single entity, or to have a connector that spreads into two people. The idea of twins is taken even further by the concept of the doppelgänger, which is often seen as a bad thing - the film Podwójne Życie Weroniki (also known as La Double Vie de Veronique or The Double Life of Veronique) directed by Krzysztof Kieślowski is a famous processing on that theme. Folk wisdom claims that everyone has a doppelgänger. People often have doubling experiences even without noticing it and have engaged in them for many thousands of years. For example, in the Cave of Forgotten Dreams documentary, there is a scene where we are in-
Self Portrait in Front of a Mirror by Toulouse Lautrec (1888)
troduced into the idea of the caveman dancing with his shadow, similarly to the way many people today exercise or dance in the mirror. We all want to engage with ourselves from the outside. Coming back to the world of art and culture, mirrors also appear in music. For example, French impressionist composer Maurice Ravel wrote a beautiful suite for solo piano between 1904 and 1905 - definitely worth a listen!
W
hen looking at the low art world, we can observe that, in music videos, characters often break mirrors, which may be a compact metastory about the world of celebrity, where reality and truth are often rejected or broken.
O
nce we have a grasp of the strong symbolic nature of mirrors, we understand why the Mirrored World is the World of Truth, as opposed to the Upside Down World, which is the world of the dark. Those who work with photo editing software (or who simply edit pictures on their tablets) know that there is always a “flip horizontal” option - the equivalent of attireclub.org |
65
66 | InCompanytAttirehClub
attireclub.org | Arnolfini Portrait by Jan van Eyck (1434)
67
The False Mirror by René Magritte (1929)
a Monde à l’Envers and a “flip vertical” option - the digital version of the Mirrored World. This makes the mental structure clearer.
B
ecause everything has a negative, as well as a positive, the “dark side” of mirrors is definitely the aspect associated with superbia, also known as pride, which is considered by the Church to be one of the seven deadly sins. The unreasonable and inordinate self-esteem one has is considered an unpardonable sin leading to a total loss of grace. Double mirrorings are usually also a way of closing down goodness.
When trying to reach a conclusion about the significance of mirrors in the known universe, one can only notice that they are all about truth. This is why, most likely, when we want to discover someone’s true intentions, we look them in the eyes, as, the eyes “never lie” and are the “mirrors of the soul”.
O
verall, it can be said that mirrors are filled with extremely powerful symbolism and that this symbolism does not stop only at the level of intellectual discourse and experience, but is also mirrored in daily life.
Using the Subconscious
68 | InCompanytAttirehClub
Stories about doppelgängers
Many cultural and philosophical ideas such as the idea that mirrors are reflections of the truth are often used in commercial projects or products to convince people that the product sold is of quality. The Daily Mirror newspaper is a great example of that. However, many times this can be a way to manipulate people, which often works. During the years of the Soviet Union, for example, the most famous Russian newspaper was a publication titled “The Truth”. However, by the end of the regime, there was a saying in Eastern Europe which went “you’re telling more lies than “The Truh”.
The Style Map Contemplating the flowers in the garden
{A style trip of brands, colors and stories} Photos: Attire Club
Waking up to a spring shower Telling time with a Breitling
Journaling in a custom notebook while wearing a bow tie by Attire Club
Visiting an antiques shop in Mulhouse, France
Reading about the passions of love
Taking a walk in the sun
Finally find gold
Z Cufflinks by Fabergé The Grigori 18K white gold, crystal & blue sapphire cufflinks with diamonds by Fabergé can make a very special addition to a very special outfit. The deep blue goes with almost anything and is appropriate for both day and night and the lovely egg shape is a subtle and elegant nod to the classic creations of the house. Maybe these cufflinks are just the right thing to wear for the Easter Sunday dinner! The Grigori Cufflinks feature round white diamonds, round blue sapphires and crystal with lapis lazuli, set in 18 karat white gold. Price: €12000. Available online at faberge.com.
attireclub.org |
69
PH I LO S O PH Y
The Problem with Art, Beauty & Fashion
O
Photos: Attire Club
On the Subjectiveness of Art
ne thing that is almost always brought up in discussion when people debate art is that art is subjective. This is in a way the “let’s agree to disagree” of the art world, meaning that no consensus and thus no real connection between the people who are engaged in the debate can be had. The fact that “art is subjective” is true, of course. What it means, however, is not clear. The most obvious thing it means and should mean is that it is alright for people to have opinions and resonate with different forms of art. Thus, there’s no point in really arguing whether renaissance paintings are better than romantic paintings or whether Beethoven is better than Mozart. Of course, some objective parameters of measurement can be applied, but in the end, it’s a matter of taste. However, most times when the subjective nature of art is discussed, people actually refer to another conversation or debate. When most people claim that “hey, art is subjective”, they actually refer to the very nature of a product’s value. In other words, they are not sure whether something should truly qualify as art and, in the lack of an open and honest communication, the agreement to disagree is raised.
70 | InCompanytAttirehClub
What Is Art and What Is It Not?
This agreement to disagree leads to the lowering of standards in art. Not only are standards lowered, but, in many circles, they have disappeared altogether. In the eyes of many, anything passes as art and only the mere intention for something to be art makes it art, although sometimes this criterion is passed on as well. While it is true that one of the things artists should do is break boundaries and create beauty and that there shouldn’t be a board dusty people categorizing what is art and what it is not (à la “Mona Lisa Smile”), it is odd that art is the only field where anything qualifies to be seen as such. To compare, just because you call a box with a wheel a “car”, it doesn’t really make it a car, and accidentally cutting yourself while cooking or shaving doesn’t qualify as “surgery”. In the same way, cutting a twig and putting it into your home doesn’t mean it’s carpentry and counting Monopoly money doesn’t mean you’re banking. And yet, yelling into a microphone is seen as music, arranging shoes in a line is considered an installation and dressing up a model in cardboard is seen as “thought-provoking fashion”. Post-modernism (but not singularly) has turned everything on its head and has given birth to the concept of “there is no truth” and “everything is what you want it to be”. Of course, this does not make any sense. Just as
a quick logical scheme, if it is true that there is no truth, the statement that there is no truth is true and thus the original statement that there is no truth is false.
New Concepts
Art is associated with aesthetics, which is the field that studies pleasure-related experiences, the mechanisms used to create there and the results of these processes. Aesthetics is strongly related to beauty and beauty is fundamentally related to balance. However, in many creative fields, including fashion, there is a strong movement towards a redefinition of beauty. A paradox is often taking the place of the definition of beauty. This works in two steps. In the first step, socalled artists and tastemakers define art as “anything” and place great emphasis on the fact that beauty can be found anywhere. In the second step, they are pushing things that make you cringe and claim that this is what beauty is and that one should accept it, any other definition of beauty being shunned away, despite their claim that “anything goes”. It’s not so much the ideas that are wrong (they could work), as their implementation. It’s complicated, but many people are now starting to awake to this thing and create new artistic circles where they go back to classic beauty and elegance. In fashion, we are seeing this contrast too, where many collections seem like they were scrapped by children during arts class and are presented as being extremely high art, when in fact they are not. It is important in order to talk about something to be able to have a definition and criteria for what it is. In
other words, we all know what technology is and don’t call a watermelon technology. In the same way, why have so many people given up on the need to define art? It is important to have definitions if we want to talk about something. Knowing what needs to be done is the first step into having better art. If there is a standard for art and certain criteria (such as sophistication and symbolism instead of tautology, universality expressed through particularity, a play with proportion, rhythm and style, social and spiritual purpose, etc.) we will already have better art and better fashion. Taking the spiritual component of art (meaning that it should appeal and raise the soul) should also be taken seriously, since if you take it out in the belief that there is no soul, there is nothing to be raised and thus art can have much of a purpose. The fact that when bad art is criticized, people claim that “you don’t get it” is, besides it not being an argument but an ad hominem, insulting. In other words, according to some people, if you don’t see any beauty in a piece of dirty fabric and don’t have your soul raised by it, you’re dumb. Calling someone stupid won’t win you arguments.
Solutions
The fact that people are either not criticized or that their critique comes from people who live in a bubble is probably one of the worst things that can happen in art. This phenomenon does not happen in all creative fields. For example, in classical music, critiques are strong and musicians work a lot to meet the standards of those at the top. In other fields, such as fashion, the standards have been lowered a lot. Lidewij Edelkoort has claimed for a while now that design schools don’t teach attireclub.org |
71
a lot of essential things anymore. This is because people either don’t know them anymore or because those who know them want to live outside of the bubble. The solution for better creative products, better art, and better fashion is to break that bubble. We should understand that art is about communication and has no meaning if it’s made for its own sake. People in creative fields should be more severe as to what their field is. Teachers, curators and tastemakers should take beauty seriously and should look at their beauty compass and use it. Not having a compass for beauty and claiming to work in aesthetics means that you don’t have very high expectations of the world or of yourself; and that is a problem that needs to be immediately addressed. Creating meaning based on nothingness doesn’t work. There is already a strong movement in the direction of classic (for the lack of a better word) arts, as many artists are going back to rudimentary techniques, which they often combine with high-tech findings. We also see it in fashion, as many designers like slow fashion and are working on reinventing couture. Things are becoming more and more contrasting and
72 | InCompanytAttirehClub
greater and greater art and artists are emerging from the nonsense. So, having the guts to express your honest opinion, having the open mind and heart to being educated and asking questions and having high standards, firstly for yourself and then for the world are the tools each and every one of us, artist or non-artist have, to create better art in the world.
C U LT U R E
The Photography Gallery
Modernity If you only knew how bad things really are... When millions of people don’t have love or caring authority in their childhoods, they remain in a state of infancy even as they grow older and always look for others to tell them what to do and to care for them, giving power to any seemingly-authoritative figure. And so, we now find ourselves living in an age of “emotional incontinence�, characterized by a corporate monoculture, counterfeit emotions and where authenticity is a rare gem. Photo: Attire Club
attireclub.org |
73
FA S H I O N
A N D
T E C H
Co-Founder at Orange Fiber Innovator
Enrica Arena
Enrica Arena is one of the Co-Founders of Orange Fiber, an Italian company that patented and creates sustainable fabrics from oranges. The fabrics are truly innovative and offer a wide range of possible uses. We wanted to find out more about Orange Fiber’s work and invited Enrica to tell us more about their production process, their collaborations and more.
“ The signs of change are really encouraging� What can you tell us about Orange Fiber? What is it and how did it come about? Orange Fiber is the Italian company that patented and manufactures sustainable fabrics for the fashion industry from citrus juice by-product. In Italy every year, more than 700000 tons of citrus juice by-products are produced. The disposal of these leftovers has important economic and environmental costs, but, until a few years ago, no one has developed a viable alternative to disposal. On the other hand, we face an ever-increasing number of consumers demanding sustainable materials and of fashion brands seeking green innovation. It is for these reasons that we have worked to unite oranges, which are typical for Sicily, and world-renown Italian excellence in textiles, developing a disruptive technology that creates an innovative material out of industrial by-products. Seeing an opportunity where others only saw a problem, we envisioned a new life for these by-products and following a collaboration with Politecnico di Milano
74 | InCompanytAttirehClub
University. Back in 2012, we developed an innovative process to create a sustainable fabric using the leftovers of citrus transformation industry. Our innovative and patented process has the potential to reduce the costs and the environmental impact of pollution related to the industrial waste of citrus transformation, addressing the need for sustainability and innovation in fashion industry. What were the main difficulties in obtaining this fabric? The biggest challenges we faced since the beginning of our business have to deal with the process of production and the fundraising. Fortunately, during these years we were not alone in facing these obstacles. In particular, thanks to our business
citrus cellulose yarn that can then be blended at the weaving stage with other materials. If the fabric is 100% Orange Fiber, it has a soft and silky feel, it is lightweight and can be either opaque or shiny. In terms of quality, it can be dyed, colored and printed as any fabric. Actually, we have developed fabrics like poplin by adding cotton, jersey by adding elastane and our twill is either pure or blended with silk. For the ‘Ferragamo Orange Fiber Collection’ for instance, we used a 110 dtex filament thread blended with silk, to obtain a silky twill that has the same look, feel and function of its silk homologue.
angels we moved the first steps to transform our idea in a concrete startup; thanks to the funds received by Seed Money, Trentino Sviluppo (Operational Program FERS 2007-2013 of the Autonomous Province of Trento with the contribution of the European Fund for Regional Development) we developed the first fabric prototypes; thanks to Smart & Start, Invitalia (Ministry of Economic Development) we opened our first pilot plant in Sicily and thanks to the grant received by winning the Global Change Award in 2015, we finalized the very first industrial production that has been used to launch the first fashion collection with our fabrics. Actually our biggest challenges concern the industrial scale up and the optimization of the costs of production. Practically, on one hand we are working on the process and the synergies with citrus squeezers and their process and on the other hand we are working with industrial players in the cellulosic industry for fabrics to adjust to their standards of production, while keeping in mind brands’ requests and preferences that we discovered with our first production and testing our samples on the market with different players. Also, this process requires time and investment, so we also need to attract investors who believe and support innovation in sustainable fashion.
How do you find the response of the fashion industry and the response of the customers to your fabric? Our Orange Fiber has always aroused the interest of fashion brands and customers, in Italy and abroad. Every day we receive dozens of expressions of interest and - in order to satisfy them - we are working hard to increase our production capacity and scale up our process. The more we will replace traditional fabrics the more we will contribute to the restart of the fashion industry and create a greener future for our planet. You’ve had a collaboration Salvatore Ferragamo. What can you tell us about that? The very first fashion collection made with the exclusive Orange Fiber fabric has been launched on the occasion of Earth Day 2017 on April 22 by Salvatore Ferragamo. We pursued a collaboration that represents our shared ethical values where we worked on shaping the fabric and showcasing its potential for elegant and sustainable applications. Faithful to their motto, Responsible Passion, Salvatore Ferragamo is the first fashion house to employ Orange Fiber fabrics. This much-anticipated collaboration is born of a shared passion for creative innovation, sustainable design and our beloved heritage of Italian excellence. Our brands have come together to produce a daily wear capsule collection of ethereal, breezy pieces flawlessly suited for the S/S 2017 season and beautifully con-
What are some of the uses the fabric can have (for example, what types of clothes can be made, etc.)? Orange Fiber has the same peculiarities of man-made cellulosic fibers and it can be used to create different looks, feels and types of clothes (dress, top, trousers, pochette, etc.) according to the designer’s needs. We are able to manufacture a 100% attireclub.org |
75
structed with the softest of fabrics for a renewed wearing experience. The high quality of the Orange Fiber fabric, the precious prints by the Italian designer Mario Trimarchi and the stylistic mark of the Salvatore Ferragamo Maison made for an exclusive collection that sounds like a hymn to Mediterranean creativity and that represents our official entry into the international fashion market. Last April our fabric has been included in the Conscious Exclusive 2019, the premium H&M collection made only with recycled and sustainable materials. In line with its commitment to a greener fashion industry and always attentive to industry innovations, the Swedish brand has chosen Orange Fiber to create a sophisticated boho-style top, a tribute to the beauty of nature and a great success for our company. In June, on the occasion of Pitti Immagine Uomo 96, we presented a limited edition of sustainable ties created by the iconic sartorial brand E. Marinella with our fabric. How do you think this type of technology can develop in the future? Today we are working hard to move forward in the R&D process to a point where we can scale up the technology and restart the production, with a long term goal of optimizing the costs of production. This is crucial if we want to develop new collaborations with fashion brands sharing our values and eventually replicate the technology in Italy and abroad, as we extended our IP in the USA, and it is pending in EU, India, Brazil and Mexico. For the future we hope to establish ourselves as the first Italian mover in the segment of sustainable fabrics through a “green� production of cellulosic fabrics from renewable sources and to create a highly recognizable textile brand for its commitment toward environmen-
76 | InCompanytAttirehClub
Adriana Santanocito and Enrica Arena presented the first sustainable fabric in the world created from citrus fruits to the First Ladies and Gentlemen of the 43rd G7 Summit held in Taormina. Here are Brigitte Macron, Christine Lagarde and Melania Trump.
tal protection and transparency. Further, we want to expand our production outside Europe in order to increase our impact and minimize our logistics, keeping in mind our sustainability goal. Do you think that over the next years, there will be a major shift in the way we relate to clothes? Yes, we believe that in the next years there will be a major shift in the way we relate to clothes, a kind of revolution that has already started. More and more consumers are demanding sustainable products and - driven by a bottom up effect - fashion brands are gradually changing their mindsets, incorporating more sustainable materials and practices, in a circular economy perspective. The journey to a greener fashion industry is still long but the signs of change are really encouraging. So, we are positive and do our best!
VALUE PROPOSITION T The Million Stitch Rolls-Royce The Rolls-Royce Bespoke Collective was recently hired by a Stockholm-based entrepreneur with a passion for flowers to customize a Phantom in such a way that it will immerse the occupants in an overwhelming floral setting. The team thus created the “Rose Phantom”: a vision made with a million embroidered stitches. The starting point for the project was a rose bred exclusively for Rolls-Royce by Harkness Roses. The base of Rolls-Royce in Goodwood, England is the only place in the world where this rose is grown. The Peacock Blue exterior of the Rose Phantom is accented with a Charles Blue twinned-coachline that intertwines organically like the stem of a rose. Inside the car, the marque’s fabled starlight headliner illuminates the floral scene, with roses interspersed with Peacock and Adonis Blue butterflies. As a centerpiece of the interior, Phantom’s Gallery is embellished with stems of embroidered roses climbing through the glass fronted fascia. This custom RR is definitely a beautiful highlight for the brand and showcases the possibilities and magic that can occur when different directions in arts and craftsmanship combine.
78 | InCompanytAttirehClub
LievArts.com
Four Seasons Art
S E C R E TS
O F
FA S H I O N
The Prince and the Pauper: Fakes, Knock-Offs & Replicas
A
ccording to a report by Europe’s Office for Harmonization in the Internal Market (OHIM), counterfeit products cost European brands the value of 9.7% of their total sales every year- about $28.7 billion - and these figures focus only on the European brands. Add up American and Asian companies and the numbers become unbelievable. Today, buying fakes or knock-off fashion items is a common practice and people have become used to the idea of being surrounded by “designer” items, which are not “designer” at all. Sometimes, these products imitate the original items more or less precisely and try to pass as originals and sometimes they don’t - a change of a letter (Gucci becomes Pucci) should be enough to make things clear.
80 | InCompanytAttirehClub
T
here is a strong market for this type of goods and it is rare that people look deep inside the roots of why so many people want to buy fakes, knock-offs and replicas. Evolutionarily, humans are programmed to showcase status in order to have a safe life and, in most cases, to be able to find a good partner with whom they will pass their genes on. A part of showcasing social and, more importantly, sexual market value, is to showcase that you have money and power. As long as humans have had a history and a culture, there have always been physical markers of wealth and power. These were always more or less the same, but they usually consist of owning things that others can’t afford; which is what basically defines the idea of luxury. In short, luxury is something which is very much sought-after, but which most people can’t afford. For example, in the desert, water is a luxury. People with wealth and high status have always
attireclub.org |
81
had items that have showcased their position in society and these have most often come in the shape of clothing, accessories and other products such as luggage, cars and more. In short, modern luxury brands have, little by little, become synonymous with power, money and elegance. And, speaking of elegance, luxury brands like Chanel, Gucci or Prada are also strongly associated with personal values. Sports brands are also associated with values such as health, dynamism and strength. This why, in many communities you will see people desperate to showcase these labels, even though they all know that they are not real items - they try to communicate that they are sporty, which means that they are healthy and have good genes.
I
nterestingly enough, fakes cost brands only 10% of their business and generally, it appears as though these brands are not especially bothered by people using their trademark logos. The reason for this is quite simple: most people who buy authentic things from Prada, Louis Vuitton or Hermès do so from authorized shops only or from their official online stores. You will rarely find a billionaire buying a vintage Chanel bag from the back of a truck on a wet alley thinking it’s a real item. The two groups (those who buy originals and those who buy fakes) generally don’t overlap. Sometimes, though, people start with fakes, and, when they see their social power, they switch to the real thing. There have been cases where huge dramas appeared around fakes. In the 1980s in Japan, there were women who had received Chanel bags from their husbands and, when the bags broke, went to Chanel stores to have them fixed. Once they arrived there, they were told that the bags were in fact fake. We’re not sure whether any divorces came from this, but hysteria and anger did ap-
82 | InCompanytAttirehClub
pear for sure.
T
hinking symbolically, the world of fakes is best framed by Mark Twain’s 1881 novel The Prince and the Pauper, in which two boys, who looked almost identical, once prince and one pauper, exchange lives for a while. The story concentrates the idea that while two elements can look (almost) exactly the same, their origin, background and inner spirit is what tells them apart. This is why, at the end of the story, the prince returns back to the throne and becomes king. This is just one of the reasons why wealthy people prefer to spend lots of money on something that is almost as good as something that is fifty times cheaper. It’s the background and the origin that count. This does not mean that fakes are worthless: this is why in The Prince and the Pauper, the new king protects his friend from whom he has learned a lot.
I
t is said that “imitation is the biggest form of flattery” and, in many ways, this is true. Having people imitate you indicates that you are a model for them and that you represent something to look up to for them. Of course, the only bigger flattery is to take one’s lessons and make them your own. Symbolically, the doubling of something usually implies a (great) difference or creating an opposite. While a mirroring in a surface tells the truth, the doubling of something usually implies a difference (à la the evil twin motive in telenovelas). Sometimes though, fakes can be very useful too. In the end, a very popular phrase many people use is “fake it until you make it”.
I N
T H E I R
OW N
WO R D S
Catching up with...
Shakhboz Makhmudov Shakhboz Makhmudov is a model and actor from Uzbekistan. He’s a strong presence in the Asian modeling scene, appearing in many magazines, billboard ads and videos. We wanted to catch up with him, so we invited him to answer a few questions exclusively for InCompany by Attire Club! What fashion brands do you follow? I am most interested in following brands like Tom Ford, Versace, Dolce and Gabbana, Hugo Boss, Gucci, Adidas. I have worn clothes from Dolce and Gabbana and Adidas many times for different projects and I really like their style. Since I have already visited many countries in Asia, this year I plan to go to Europe. And there I want to work with these brands. Do you have a workout routine? I am interested in freestyle wrestling, boxing, football and fitness. What are you currently watching / listening to / reading? I like movies which feature stars like Tom Cruise, Jackie Chan, Tom Hardy, Johnny Depp and Brad Pitt. I listen to calm music like chillout music. Now I’m reading Daniel Keyes’ Flowers for Algernon. This fantasy story has amazing psychological power and makes you think about the universal human issues of morality. What is currently your favorite food? My favorite food for life is our national Uzbek plov*! This is the best food for me. Plov is a symbol of Uzbek cuisine! Who are you currently working with; what projects do you have in progress? I recently arrived in Tashkent after touring several Asian countries where I have worked with a few brands. For example, thanks to MP Models Agency Thailand, I starred in a video for the Head & Shoulders shampoo. This video was released in 5 countries: Singapore, Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia and the Philippines. Now, I am in Tashkent and I am engaged in the cinema - I have several series contracts, as I’m interested in acting. After I finish acting in TV shows in Tashkent, I hope to visit Europe and try to discover different opportunities. Also, I recently opened TASH MODEL MANAGMENT my modeling agency and school.
Follow Shakhboz on Instagram at @shakhbozofficial
*Editor’s Note: Uzbek plov is a dish consisting of lamb, rice, vegetables and spices. attireclub.org |
83
THE ATTIRE CLUB MOOD DIARY Our mood board as a visual journal
84 | InCompanytAttirehClub
Bibliotheca Curiosa Chemica Jean-Jacques Manget (1652-1742) was a Swiss doctor, writer and collector who published works on the European black plague, heart rhythm disturbances and anatomy. He is also known for publishing one of the most complete compilations of alchemical writings ever published. Manget’s Bibliotheca Curiosa Chemica from 1702 collected 140 alchemical treatises in 2 massive volumes and also featured illustrations from these rare or lost original hermetic texts. Authors included names such as Athanasius Kircher, Roger Bacon, Georg Agricola and even Nicholas Flamel. attireclub.org |
85
YRead this article with a song!
86 | InCompanytAttirehClub
St. Matthew and the Angel by Rembrandt, 1661
attireclub.org |
87
C I N E M A
C U LT U R E
1
O r s o n Welles’ ished i n i f Un s s e n i s u B
Orson Welles is known by most people for his War of the Worlds broadcast and for his iconic cinematic works. However, what many don’t know is that Orson had under his name many unfinished projects, which have caused much discussion and controversy during the 1970s and 80s, but which, in retrospect can be seen as great tools for understanding the mind and heart of the magician and director.
88 | InCompanytAttirehClub
Candid photograph of Orson Welles dated October 29, 1945
attireclub.org |
89
O
rson Welles is of course one of the most known and respected directors in the history of cinema. Most people know him for his 1941 film, Citizen Kane. His production, starring himself, is considered to be one of the best movies in history; despite it not being that excellent and Orson himself later declaring that the ending was like a final scene from a B-rate book. When looking at his life and career, one can argue that the drama of Orson Welles’ life was an uncommon one. Most young people who want to direct find themselves in a lot of difficulty to create their first film. And so, what happens in many cases is that ta young director will put extremely much information in his first film as an attempt to get out there as much as possible for the fear that he may not be able to make any other film. For Orson, it can be said that it was the other way around. He started out by creating big movies and towards the last part of his career acted like a film school graduate who is obsessed with squeezing out in the world as much as possible. But Orson was also a rather smart man. Maybe he knew very well what he was doing and, as an extremely grandiose act of magic, he confused all of us by dazzling us with an overbearing experience. Regardless of what the case was, it can be clearly said that Orson was someone of a mosaic person: his mind was sensitive and complex and understood the world in a very impressive manner.
I
n the last part of his life, Orson was seen by many as a burnt-out genius, as someone who had created a lot of amazing productions but who was now unable to release any new work. However, the truth of the matter is that while Orson was not in the spotlight for any new movies or television shows, he was very often at work, involved in many projects which were not released - most of them remaining unfinished. The lost films of Orson Welles however are a great body of work: watching the available footages, one can see that the director was more than just a movie maker; he was a magician of the everyday and someone whose interests were larger than his ability to cope with them. Orson saw details and stories and understood that the quotidian is a complex phenomenon, in which stores and perspectives intertwine and that the camera and storytelling are means which allow you to live or understand various Portrait of Orson Welles on the cover of the New York Sunday News, recreating the CBS Radio studio in the newspaper’s photographic studio in 1938
90 | InCompanytAttirehClub
people and lives and, by extension, the universe. Whether in the first, second or third person, telling stories is both a way of communicating with others and of interacting with the world. In 1975, soon after releasing F for Fake, which was the last film he completed, he was offered a Lifetime Achievement Award. At the ceremony, in his short speech he explained that he can accept the award only “in the name of all mavericks”. This way, it can be said that he understood that, while he may have been someone who had had much public acclaimed, he was always at the front of the curve and that doing things that were ordinary or boring was of no interest to him. Interestingly enough, upon looking at his career, one can always see the fact that Orson had the rare ability to create art that is both accessible (by present and future audiences) and to use the medium in a way that is unique, without taking away rules by which it worked. For example, when he created the Orson Welles’ Sketchbook series, a short British show in which he drew while telling 15-minute stories, he invented what we today would call a vlog. He basically understood the intimacy of television and saw the future possibilities that the medium could offer, decades before there was even talk of the internet. When he passed on ten years later, he had established a reputation as someone who did not finish his films. The Other Side of the Wind was almost ready, but, for legal reasons, it was still blocked from public view. The stories surrounding Orson and the way he was conducting his work made many believe that even his fame was a hoax, while others saw him simply as a fallen king. In many ways, one can clearly say that the mysteries and controversies were something Orson enjoyed - despite the fact that we have no way of knowing that. But, given that we are aware of his deep passion for magic, hoaxes and fakes, it can be said that the idea of audiences not knowing something for sure was a passion of his.
D
uring the late 80s, after Orson’s passing, Oja Kodar, his muse and lover, following a period of not getting close to any of Orson’s things because she was not “emotionally ready”, decided to rehabilitate his name and to release and talk about the work he had done, but which the public had not seen. Orson had left her with an impressive archive of footage and montages, which could finally shed light on the rumors and scraps many people were talking about. The films that Orson did complete and release were mostly pictures that were heavily altered by producers and studios; thus, they were not completely reflective of his vision. However, the films that were now viewable showcased the way in which Orson himself saw things and how we wanted his movies to look. In the given financial circumstances, of course.
The themes explored by Orson in his unfinished projects were so varied and intriguing that they can keep people on the edge of their seats. “If Koda was carrying on with Picasso in the south of France, how did Hughes, who was at the time busy growing his toe nails in Vancouver, make it to those secret meetings on the Mexican pyramid?” Only such a quote from a film gives us a glimpse into the complex and, in all honesty, complicated mind of Orson Welles. But in the end, this is who Welles was: a magician who used smoke and mirrors to bamboozle people. Should we look at him from this perspective, Kaja’s defenses would not actually be necessary.
F
or him though, as the man behind the curtain, life was most likely structured and he used these structures to create his illusionist acts. In another film, we hear Orson say “Ladies and gentlemen, suppose I come right out with it and admit to you now that my old Martian hoax on the radio was… well not exactly a hoax.” Don’t you just want to know what happened? “That there were secret sponsors of that broadcast who were in fact some rather influential beings from outer space. You smile. I think they’re smiling, Gary and I’d just like to remind them that it is since that broadcast that there have been in this country alone authenticated sightings. You still think it’s a joke? Good. That’s the way we want you to feel about it. For now…” This kind of really strong and captivating statements in Orson’s movies make it seem that his entire latter career was itself in fact a hoax, which ensured that the discourse he created over the course of the first half of his life would remain open and at the same time, unveiled in mystery.
T
hrough his unfinished films, Orson created not just layers of secrets, boxes of mystery and most likely a lot of fake leads (we all know how much he loved fakes), but he also gave birth to a whole universe of backstories. The fact that Orson saw human existence as a multiverse
Photograph of Orson Welles, the lead illustration in a Look magazine photocrime feature about The Mercury Wonder Show, 1943
can also be drawn from his drawings. He would often doodle and would throw his things away, but Oja would save and keep his works. His drawings were sometimes like still movies. He would draw someone, then the way someone else looks at that person and so on - this way, the director would create a range of stories based on the same moment, each representing a perspective of a different character. He would also draw the sets for his movies and paid attention to every detail he could.
A
ccording to Oja, in his private life, Orson was quite different than his public persona. He was quiet and humble and actually rejected the megattireclub.org |
91
F for Fake (1973) was the last film Welles completed
alomaniac image people ascribed to him. At the same time though, he did enjoy using and playing with it on screen. The general idea of identity was one with which he often played in his essays, as exemplified by the hilarious Lord Plumfield versus Welles, in which he played not only with the concept of identity, but also with the idea of looking behind the curtain and the actions a truth-seeker can afterwards take. He had done so masterfully before in the sketch show called Broaden Your Mind from 1968 and ’69. If the world was a stage for Shakespeare, the world was Orson Welles’ film set.
I
ndeed, as Oja recalled in an interview, Orson was scrapbooking, or better said, scrapfilming all the time. They were traveling around the world with filming and editing equipment and with a lot of other gear Orson found useful. “Seeing our luggage, people must have thought we were completely crazy”, she said when thinking back on the travel days. On one occasion, a window frame he saw served as the point of inspiration for a humorous scene in which he played Winston Churchill. The reporter asks off camera in a serious questioning voice: “What are the desirable qualifications for a young man who wishes to become a politician?” Churchill replies: “The ability to foretell what is going to happen tomorrow, next week, next month, next year… and to have the ability to explain afterwards why it didn’t happen.”
T
he socio-cultural aspect of the story was what captured many people’s attention for years. Everyone was discussing why Welles was not able to finish his movies. In many cases, friends would act in his films, as he did not have large budgets and locations had to be changed due to financial reasons. When The
92 | InCompanytAttirehClub
Other Side of the Wind was not released, many people felt that their views on Orson were correct. Interestingly enough, the film was finished by a team of film makers after more than forty years since the project was started by Orson and was released in 2018 in selected theaters and on Netflix. Orson had a rich social life and knew many people and was surrounded by many young actors and directors as well. When he wanted to shoot a few scenes for The Other Side of the Wind, he could not afford a real film set, so he, Oja and a few young people sneaked into the set on a day when nobody was working there. Orson was hidden in a van.
O
rson also worked on adaptations of the books of his favorite author, Tania Blixen, and even did a pilot for a TV talk show. He claimed he enjoyed television very much, because you couldn’t make a talk show for a movie screen and because television was all about people, which was his favorite subject. There were many bad times in Orson’s life, but he managed to weather them. Having Oja by his side was probably also useful.
W
elles was also profoundly passionate about acting. His rich theater background did not really reflect in his work, but, as Oja recalls, in her living room was where she saw some of the most impressive theater. Apparently, Orson made a great Romeo… and a great Juliet. Because he was such a one-man-band, Orson also decided to make an autobiographical film. Unfortunately, this was not completed as well, and it would have been extremely interesting to see how we wanted to present his life to the public. Maybe the theme of the movie was enough for us, as the film was about a one-man-band.
2 As Above So Below
“Winged vulture leads the way with brightest light in darkest day. Underneath the heaven’s reign what is lost shall be regained. Halfway twixt the darkest gate and this tablet laid atop a paird fate.”
A
s Above So Below is a 2014 American film directed by John Erick Dowdle. The film centers around Scarlet, an accomplished archeologist professor and alchemy scholar, who is continuing her father’s hunt for Philosopher’s Stone. After a series of clues, she understands that her quest needs to take her deep inside the catacombs of Paris. Thus, she and an ad-hoc crew enter the secret tunnels of the City of Lights and start exploring some corridors which were completely off-limits. It is interesting that the municipality of Paris actually allowed for filming to take place in the real catacombs of the French capital. As the team of adventurers dives deep in the unknown, little by little we get to understand that there is more than strange architecture luring in the underground. The characters begin to see that the tunnels hide not just physical mysteries, but that they also act as a mirror of their sins. Thus, it is not long before the mental and physical pressure is felt and the characters enter into a type of personal hell. The characters decide that they need to continue their quest, without actually knowing how they would escape or whether they would make it, but understanding that “The Only Way Up is Down”. The film features many references to mystical practices and to the occult and the characters share many similarities with Dante’s Inferno. In both works, the characters
enter hell, traverse its nine circles and see sinners punished according to their sins. In some instances, the dialogues mirror lines from Dante’s guide Virgil and, in the end the characters escape through a portal where gravity is reversed - the final scenes being extremely fascinating. In Dante Alighieri’s Inferno, we find out about the Nine Circles of Hell, known as Limbo, Lust, Gluttony, Greed, Anger, Heresy, Violence, Fraud and Treachery. In As Above So Below, there are nine floors which correspond to these levels. In the first floor, the characters find La Taupe, who is in a state of limbo and wonders forever in the dark. On the second floor, Lust, a deafening sound of a vortex is heard, as described in Dante’s book. On the fourth floor, a treasure that cannot be obtained is found and on the seventh floor the characters face extreme deadly violence. On the ninth floor, Treachery, the characters see Satan on a throne. Of course, the most important part of the film is the fact that the Philosopher’s Stone is found within the spirit of Scarlet, which she can obtain only after going through hell and back and after discovering it in herself. This is why, when she goes back to the place she had found the original stone, she only looks at herself in the mirror and goes back. The real Philosopher’s Stone is something that can be found within oneself. Its power lies in the belief of the stone and the belief in oneself and the faith in divinity. This story and concept have had many variants, such as Odin’s Discovery of the Runes. The reception of the film was not overall an extremely positive one, which is both surprising and not so surprising. On the one hand, it is expected that such a complex film not to be understood, especially by audiences who see it as a cheap Blairwitch Project, but on the other hand, it would have been great to have more people grasp the deeper concepts presented in the movie, as it is a film with a lot to say. attireclub.org |
93
AC
WO R L D
The Attire Club 2019 Style Portfolio: Brandmania
Photos: Attire Club More: attireclub.org
94 | InCompanytAttirehClub
YRead this article with a song!
The focus of the 2019 Attire Club Style Portfolio was the idea of the new culture that is emerging and the fresh logomania, which, in most cases these days, is hand-made. It’s the dawning of a new age, but now, most of the newcomers are just in buds.
SUBSCRIPTION
Subscribe to InCompany by Attire Club to make sure you receive your beautiful print copy of each edition. With a focus on quality and sophistication, InCompany by Attire Club magazine explores the fashion world in an original and creative manner. Featuring interviews with creative talents, style guides, stunning photography and carefully curated products and travel recommendations, the goal of the magazine is to present more than the typical fashion publication. Capturing a compelling image of the fashion world, the issue covers both the independent and mainstream areas of fashion and from the very ethnic and old-school to the latest high-tech innovations. Go to levolny.mozello.com to buy the subscription for just â‚Ź90 (about $102) or just scan the QR code on the left.
QR Code Glossary
Discover the brands and people featured in this issue! Acne Studios u john-mikael-flaux.com Page 11
Liev Arts u lievarts.com Pages 63, 79
Raketa u raketa.com Page 14
FabergĂŠ u faberge.com Page 69
Aston Martin u astonmartin.com Page 29
Orange Fiber u orangefiber.it Page 74
Rocambolesco u rcmblsc.wordpress.com/ Page 30
Les Taureaux u lestaureaux.wordpress.com Page 77
Yaki Bracelets u yakibracelets.com Page 41
Rolls-Royce u rolls-roycemotorcars.com Page 78
Richy Skr u richyskr.de Page 42
Shakhboz Makhmudov u instagram.com/shakhbozofficial Page 82
Parmigiani Fleurier u parmigiani.com Page 54 96 | InCompanytAttirehClub
Always Addressing Power Dressing
AttireClub.org
See you online! attireclub.org facebook.com/attireclub twitter.com/attireclub pinterest.com/attireclub instagram.com/attireclub attireclub.tumblr.com vk.com/attireclub
Émile Friant Self-portrait, 1878
IChAC