Editorial: The Travel Issue
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hen reading about the sources of inspiration of various collections, one often finds that travel is a common theme. And there is a good reason for that. Traveling is a way of discovering new things, new colors, new aesthetics and new ideas that enrich one’s life and broaden his horizons. People who travel are always keeping the places they’ve been to as cultural reference points and try to go back to them when they need to understand something more about themselves, others and the world. Those who don’t get to travel as much often have a yearning for broadening their horizons. Even though today we have the world at our fingertips, seeing it on a screen is not enough. This is why we see more and more hand-crafted, ethnic-derived, naïve garments and accessories in the fashion world: the more we take in the world in a digital way, the more we have a need to compensate that through fabrics with textures. Moreover, in a world where everything becomes more and more standardized and simple, people are looking for ways to compensate that, and they do it by surrounding themselves with unique pieces of clothing, of art and of décor. Back to traveling, it is rare to have two people having the exact same travel background, which in many ways makes one’s travels a version of his unique identity. We see such kaleidoscopic combinations in the world of fashion very much, where designers combine unexpected worlds and ways of looking at things. The question of “what if ” is a very common and current starting point for many creative people around the world. What if a Mayan village met a high-tech Japanese robot factory? What if an African tribe read the legends of the Russian tundra? What if an Icelandic fisherman went to a k-pop party in China? These questions and others like them are the basis for many creative processes. This type of question as the basis for a creative process is also one of the best reflections we have of what the world is today: a global network of people and ideas that are coming together and looking for the best way possible to do it, as we understand that there is no going back. The Attire Club Team
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InCompanytAttirehClub Released by FRAQUOH AND FRANCHOMME Chief Executive Officer Dan Dimitriu Creative Director Iosif Trif Write letters to the editor iosif.trif@attireclub.org Visit our website attireclub.org Contact & Advertising office@attireclub.org Address Theresiengasse 50 Top 1 1180 Vienna Austria Telephone 0097 150 12 801 73 Follow us Facebook: facebook.com/attireclub
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Konstantin Korovin, Set design for Khovanshchina: Act I
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Contents
Summer 2018
Editorial
The Travel Issue Why travel is a great source of inspiration in fashion. u3 In Their Own Words Designer & Entrepreneur Franck Dubarry Watches with a twist. u 10 Travel Guide Badrutt’s Palace: The Dream Hotel Holidays in the Swiss Alps. u 14 New Ways Luxury Market Trends 2018-19 What’s in. u 18 In Their Own Words Influencer Luca Vezil The making of an it-boy. u 24 Continental Shift The Meaning of Travel Designers Juan Carlos Gordillo and Lars Andersson talk how traveling has influenced their designs. u 30 6
Looks Theory 5 Fashion Staples that Don’t Go Out of Style Must-haves. u 36 Fashion World The New Fashion World The world of style is getting a new look. u 48 In Their Own Words The Style Gate CEO Alessandro Maria Ferreri Branding luxury for over 20 years. u 52 Secrets of Fashion A Short History of Pattern Making and the Russian Revolution New world, new aesthetics. u 56 Current Obsessions Travel Watches Time watching. u 58 Travel & Culture J for Jordan Great facts about this captivating Middle Eastern country. u 60 Style Guide What is Thread Count... And Why It Matters Make informed decisions u 64 7
Fashion & Technology Money Matters: Fashion and Cryptocurrencies The trend on everybody’s lips... u 68 Style Guide What is a Go-To Watch? Watches today are more than just about telling the time. u 70 Travel Calendar Getting around Europe, one destination per month. Discover 12 destinations that offer great experiences. u 76 Fashion Ahead The First Anti-Pollution Scarf by WAIR Breathing fresh air is the new trend. u 78 Style Guide 28 One-Line Men’s Fashion & Style Tips Fashion in a nutshell. u 80 The Attire Club Mood Diary Our Moodboard as a Visual Journal Owen Jones’ Grammar of Ornament u 86
Fuse Ambition A look back at AC’s Efraim bow tie. u 96 QR Code Glossary Discover the Brands Presented in this Issue 8
Use your phone or tablet to discover the websites mentioned in this issue. u 98
YListen to a song with the cotents!
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The Smart Magazine Attire Club is offering a complete men’s style, fashion and lifestyle experience, centered around the AC website. To discover our universe and over 1000 articles that will offer you the tools to develop your style, as well as fashion inspiration and cultural insights and to interact with us and be part of our community, visit us online.
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FASHION WORLD
Designer & Entrepreneur
Franck Dubarry Franck Dubarry is a French entrepreneur and designer, with a strong reputation in the watch industry and advertising sector. Two years ago, he launched his eponymous watch brand, with which he set out to bring a new perspective on high-end watches. We discussed with Franck about his background, his motivations behind the key moves that shaped his career and what makes his newest endeavor special.
“We are not a conservative brand”
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ranck Dubarry comes from the world of law and finance, but has also worked in the creative world. In 1990s Paris, he owned an advertising agency, where he worked on many ad campaigns, many of which revolved around fashion and luxury items. In 1995, Franck decided to engage in a major shift in his career, when he sold his agency and started working as a consultant for creative campaigns. The reason behind this was because he wanted to own the rights for the things he created. With his strong background, a good eye for the market and trends and a passion for the visual – Franck being a passionate photographer himself, 10
he decided later on to launch his own watch brand, called TechnoMarine. The reason he chose watches was a thoughtful move on his part; not only is Franck a fan of watches, but he also understood that watches are a quick way of displaying one’s “social attributes”, as he puts it. For Franck, a watch is an instant way of communicating who you are, what your interests are and what your main personality traits are. His colorful approach to watches was also timely. He explains that “when I started the watch company, there was a gap between the fashion industry, where, for example, Versace was doing a lot of colors at the end of the 90s and the watch industry was very dull: brown, black, gray. So I thought I could bring some color to it and fill the gap I
had noticed.” In the mid-2010s, after selling over 2.5 million watches with TechnoMarine, Franck Dubarry sold his brand to a private equity fund, as he wanted to establish a new brand. Thus, in 2016 the Franck Dubarry watch brand was born. The colors and style of the watches are bold, colorful and fresh. They mix various
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with creative and new ideas and always try to bring an element of creativity and to move apart from the crowd, even though we respect the other players in the industry.” Franck Dubarry participated in the Baselworld watch and jewelry fair both years since the launch of his newest brand.
aesthetics such as Latin American influences and the sport of polo and appeal to a young audience of people who want to wear something unique and colorful. It took a lot of work to launch a new brand, but to Franck it was worth it. Soon enough, his unusual watches drew people who wanted to wear something outstanding and who didn’t need to wear a known label to make a statement. Thus, people like the King of Morocco, the Sultan of Brunei and even a group of British billionaires soon became clients of the label. For Franck, this makes sense: people who are in such positions don’t need to flash labels to show their power and this is why they would rather wear something that expresses their personality and taste. “We are not a conservative brand”, he explains, “we try to come up 12
Pondering on the state of the watch industry, Franck says that his label is in a way harder to launch than his previous one, since now there are a lot more players in the game. But, at a steady but sure pace and by continuing to bring exciting watches to his audience, a brand like his can definitely sustain itself in the long run. The label is starting to grow a presence through Asia and the Middle East, which are growing markets in terms of luxury accessories. In terms of trends, Franck makes a clear distinction between the products themselves and their distribution. In terms of products, Franck sees a growth in smartwatches, which he believes will draw a new, younger segment of the population to discover the world watchmaking, even though they will start off with digital watches. As for the distribution of timepiec-
es, Franck sees a new way of selling on the horizon. He believes that in the near future, the digital part of selling highend luxury watches will become very important, but that it will need to be supported by a physical presence. In other words, people will discover more and more watches online, but will want to see them in a showroom in their vicinity. Therefore, we might see many small boutiques appear, where people will be able to see the designs they consider purchasing. These could not be stores with a street window per se, but rather on-appointment meeting places between brands and clients, which don’t have to be located on big commercial arteries. Franck Dubarry is definitely a man who knows how to work the ins and outs of a successful business; he has a fresh product, a vision and knows how to appeal to his target audience. Thus, the Franck Dubarry watch brand can very well be one of big new names in the word of watchmaking. Discover the Franck Dubarry watches at franckdubarry.com
Shoes, Shirt and Pants and You Are Ready for the Dance
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TRAVEL GUIDE
BADRUTT’S PALACE:
THE DREAM HOTEL Located right above the lake of St. Moritz, in one of the most luxurious resorts in the world, the Badrutt’s Palace Hotel has been a landmark of elegance and refinement in the Swiss Alps for more than a century. Situated in a majestic location, surrounded by breathtaking mountains and beautiful buildings, the hotel is one of the most special places you can live in in the entire world. Each room has a distinct character and the restaurants, spa and sports facilities complete the experience. The magic atmosphere of the Palace is only matched by its history and the people who come to visit it every year. 14
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adrutt’s Palace, located in the beautiful Engadin Valley, has a history that goes back to 1856. It was this year when Johannes Badrutt, a brave ski jumper bought a guesthouse in St. Moritz and decided to rebuild it in order to create the Hotel Engadiner Kulm, which today is called simply the Kulm Hotel. In 1864, Casper Badrutt, the son of Johannes Badrutt, bought the Hotel Beau Rivage in St. Moritz, which had been built in 1872 by C. Rungger
and altered it to create the Badrutt’s Palace Hotel we see today. Caspar decided to remodel the hotel and hired famous Swiss architects Chiodera and Tschudi to do it. The hotel got not just a new décor, but a new name as well, Palace Hotel. Meanwhile, Johannes Badrutt invited his first English guests to the hotel for winter sports and built curling rinks and the world’s first toboggan run to offer his guest a great experience. The official opening of the Palace Hotel was on July 29, 1896. Soon enough, the hotel started offering more and more captivating experiences and memorable moments to its guests. For example, in 1913, the first European indoor tennis court was inaugurated in the hotel.
Partying at the Palace was, and still is, legendary. On one occasion, a guest wanted to surprise his wife with a gift. While the content of the gift is unknown, the way it was delivered was an unforgettable experience for everyone who happened to be there on that day and see it. The guest impressed his partner by hav15
indoor BBQ, with a real green lawn. For those who want to relax and enjoy the silence of the Swiss Alps, the hotel offers 7 restaurants, 3 bars and a lobby snack bar (Le Grand Hall).
ing the gift being brought in by an elephant. This type of occasional moment is not the only time you can have a once in a lifetime experience at the hotel. Each year, New Year’s Eve is celebrated with an extravagant themed party that turns the hotel into a fairytale world. Sindbad the Sailor, Aladdin and the Magic Lamp, and Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves were just some of the themes of these dazzling parties. Outside that, guests can even tailor their own parties. Once, the hotel even put together an 16
Suites in the hotel feature living rooms and some even have Jacuzzis and grand pianos. In 1969-70, a fitness and pool center was added, which
was rebuilt in 2010 and 2002 saw the opening of the luxurious Serletta designer shopping complex (2 000 sqm / 21527.82 sqf ), which faces the main entrance to Badrutt’s Palace Hotel. Today it is renamed Palace Galerie.
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he glitz and glamour of Badrurtt’s Palace have drawn many celebrities throughout time. Thus, people like Audrey Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich and Charlie Chaplin have all enjoyed the experience of this grandiose hotel. Today, the hotel has something for everyone: from the wellness center to the King’s Club nightclub, every type of guest can enjoy their stay.
In 2016, the hotel celebrated its 120th anniversary. The celebrations were completed by the so-called “120,000 SFr. Package”. This was a package available only during 2016 and contained a transfer by private jet to and from St. Moritz, either from Milan or Zurich. Also, guests could reside in the luxurious Beau Rivage suites and could embark on a 120 minutes helicopter flight over the breathtaking mountain panorama. The Package also included a 12-course gourmet dinner. A cocktail containing a 1.2 carat Graff diamond was also included. The cost for the package was, of course, $120,000. In conclusion, it can be said that the Badrutt’s Palace Ho-
tel is the quintessential St. Moritz experience. It is the one place that contains everything this resort is about: elegance, luxury and overall fine living. This venerable hotel is in many ways what the palaces and castles of the past were: it combines the exclusivity of select rooms with the famous laid-back Swiss soft opulence. For its state-of-the-art hospitality and remarkable history, it has become and remains to be a worldwide attraction for those who want to enjoy the definition of luxury.
Visit the Badrutt’s Palace Hotel online at badruttspalace.com 17
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NEW WAYS:
Luxury Market Trends 2018-2019
Luxury is back in fashion. With an overall growth of 5% of the luxury market in 2017, to an estimated €1.2 trillion global worth and most luxury segments experiencing positive growth, it can be said that luxury goods are definitely at a high request. Shoes, jewelry and handbags ranked as the three fastest-growing product categories, increasing by 10%, 10% and 7%, respectively, at current exchange rates. Clothes, grooming products and handbags still make up the largest part of global luxury purchases, amounting to €61 billion, €54 billion and €48 billion, respectively — and collectively representing 62% of the personal luxury goods market. In 2017, almost two-thirds of all luxury brands (65%) experienced growth, up from only 50% in 2016. This is definitely the mark of a growing trend: luxury is sought, which means that companies need to create new, exciting products and experiences and to walk the fine line between the timeless quality and the modern edge that characterizes luxury goods. Photos: Attire Club
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O Digital vs. Physical
ne of the strongest trends in the luxury market is the growth of digital experiences. This has more significances than one. Firstly, there’s a steady growth of online sales; in 2017, online sales for luxury goods have increased by 24%. However, most luxury shopping is still done in person and the people who order things online often want to see and touch their products 20
before committing to them. However, the shopping experience is not the only thing that defines the digital luxury. This can also mean a whole digital platform where people can learn about their products. For example, traceability, where a customer can see who made their product and where is a big trend. Whether a product is genuine or not is also a major concern for luxury buyers. The motivations for owning luxury products, their stories and cultural meaning are also supported by digital endeavors. In a world where quality is increasingly common and accessible, people want products with strong backstories and social importance.
Standardization vs. Personalization Luxury today is not just about having top quality clothes, bags or other products, but it’s also a lot about making it your own. Some brands are going to the extreme where they offer 100% customized products, but many shoppers don’t want something completely individual, but a personalized version of something made with the knowledge and taste of the designer and that has a personal touch. Thus, inscribing your name on your bag for example is something many people want and will want to do.
T Home vs. Travel
he luxury market is a global market, but it is segmented strongly into domestic shopping and abroad shopping. Countries like France, Italy, the UK, the US, etc. are still the major players in the luxury market and will remain so for the upcoming seasons. However, there is a strong focus placed on shopping while traveling or abroad, even for those who live in these countries. For example, when it comes to British luxury customers, half of the products they buy are while traveling. UK-incorporated multinational professional services network Deloitte published a report according to which, 15% of luxury goods are bought at an airport. When it comes to consumers from emerging markets, the pro-
portions for shopping abroad or while traveling (meaning in airports) rises to 60%. Selling at airports is also a very easy task, as you can basically predict the flow of customers. For example, at Heathrow, World Duty Free Group uses flight data to make sure speakers of the right languages are available along with the right goods for the market. Also, according to the Economist, Courvoisier and Hennessy are heavily displayed for flights to Barbados in the morning, only to be replaced by cheaper brands for afternoon flights to countries like the USA and Norway. L’Oreal places a very high emphasis on their airport retail too. Their airport sales are so important to their bottom line that they refer to airports as the “6th continent�. The place where one buys luxury goods is also relevant. Asian markets are at the moment more expensive; even though the Hong Kong and mainland China markets are seeing a small slowdown in luxury sales.
Prices in the UK have also gone up a little, after the big news of Brexit; which lead to a slight devaluation of the sterling. The Middle East also continues to be a strong contender on the luxury market. Places like Dubai and Abu Dhabi are very attractive for luxury brands and, due to the heavy tourism in the region, they perform very well. The economic changes and uncertainties of the region however have generated a slight slowdown in luxury shopping, but nevertheless, these places have a strong standing in the luxury market. Upcoming markets such as Russia or Latin America, who have a luxury sector that is rather small are still making efforts to maintain themselves in the game. Russia is a more stable market, while Latin American consumers are becoming more conservative with their purchases. The decline of the Mexican peso for 21
example has determined many consumers to be less outgoing in their luxury purchases. Other markets where luxury brands are not represented or where they are very little represented, such as Eastern Europe, Africa or certain parts of Asia do not seem to enter the flow of luxury shops soon, since there is still not a strong local market for such goods in those countries. Luxury shoppers from these countries usually travel to places like France, Germany, Switzerland or the US to make their luxury shopping.
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B Blockchain
l ockchain technologies are on the rise in all sectors of culture and the luxury market won’t go unaffected. We’re expecting to see an increase in blockchain authentication for luxury goods. It’s very likely that over the next seasons, we’ll see more and more brands hand out QR codes along with their products. These codes will contain a digital certificate of authenticity. Thus, the buyer will not only get a story of the product but will also have a reliable audit trail
and evidence that the product is original. Thus, blockchain technologies can help fight fraud not only in domains such as banking, but also in fashion. Moreover, since blockchain is the technology on which cryptocurrencies such as bitcoin are based, we’re most likely going to observe an increase in fashion-related cryptocurrencies, or, in general, decentralized currencies connected to the luxury market. According to the 16th edition of the Bain Luxury Study, published by Bain & Company for Fondazione Altagamma, we can expect the growth of the luxury market to continue at an estimated 4%–5% compound annual rate over the next three years (at constant exchange rates), with the market for personal luxury goods reaching €295–€305 billion by 2020.
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IN THEIR OWN WORDS
The Making of an It-Boy
LUCA VEZIL Luca Vezil is an Italian fashion and style blogger. On his website and social media he shares cool outfits and glimpses into his daily life. With over 500000 followers on IG alone, Luca has become one of Italy’s strongest digital influencers. Discover our interview with him.
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What can you tell us about your background? How did you become interested in fashion? Luca Vezil: Fashion has always represented a big fantasy world to me. Since I was a young student in my hometown, I was always fascinated by new trends, new collections from the fashion shows and the big campaigns I could see on TV, hoping someday I would find a way to be a little part of it. Where do you find your inspiration? LV: Social media have definitely changed the rules. As I said, TV was my major source of inspiration; whereas I now scroll Instagram – mostly all day long, to find new trends, new picture styles, new places to write upon my bucket list... Why did you open up your blog? LV: I was really shy at that time, but I felt I wanted to express myself beyond the four walls of my hometown too. The latter won and so I opened my blog, where I could share more about myself, my life, my personal style and my thoughts. I didn’t have any expectations, I knew it was only one drop in the ocean, but it finally was my drop and I worked hard to make the best out of that little drop.
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How did you become extremely well-known? LV: It just happened. Of course, being part of the Ferragni family helped me, as I was getting more and more known, but I worked hard to carve out my personal role. In the beginning I was struggling with how to do it, but then I realized that I just had to be myself and share my passions, my inner and outer world with my fan base, it gradually started growing. It’s strange, people now refer to me as a celebrity while I simply am not one and I don’t feel that, at all. I just am a guy living his life and trying to share the most with the people who love him and whom he loves. How would you describe your style? LV: I always refer to my style as my personal style. This is important because I feel style has something related to every single person: it may vary according to trends, trends but it’s important to have and maintain your own style. I wear casual clothes most of the times. I love sneakers, I have a huge collection of them and I like to change them almost every day. I’m a sport addict too, so it may happen that I go out in gym apparel, but sometimes you can also me in a double-breasted suit. I feel like a chameleon and that’s part of “Luca’s style”, people would get bored to see always same stuff, wouldn’t they?
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What do you think will be the next trend in menswear? LV: There’s something I love but I see people are not already used to: hats and beanies. Accessories are considered just the icing on the cake, but I firmly believe a good outfit can start with an accessory, as far as it’s a good accessory, of course! What are you currently obsessed with, fashion- and otherwise? LV: Fashion was the main interest I had when I entered this world, but then I started experiencing new ones. I’m currently so into fitness, I love it! Photography and design are two worlds that I’m now starting to explore and, once again, I have to thank social media to have provided me with the opportunity to get to know more about things I hadn’t thought I could be interested in only 5 years ago. Thank you!
Discover Luca’s blog at lucavezil.it
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CONTINENTAL SHIFT
THE MEANING OF TRAVEL Travel has a great impact on the world of many designers. As the world becomes more and more connected, far-away destinations serve as the starting point of the design of many clothes and accessories. Thus, we wanted to take a look at the creative process of two very different and distinct designers: Juan Carlos Gordillo from Guatemala and Lars Andersson from Sweden. Back in 2016, Juan Carlos launched a collection titled “Journey to the Americas�, in which he explored the classic American aesthetic, which he continued to use in his 2017 collection, which he presented during Vienna Fashion Week in Austria. On the other hand, Lars has designed a series of relaxed clothing, inspired by Indian culture and the way of life they express, which he discovered after having traveled a lot around the world. His clothes are a merge between the classic Swedish approach to style and the newfound ethnic designs of various Asian cultures. Discover our two exclusive interviews. 30
JUAN CARLOS GORDILLO
Juan Carlos Gordillo is a Guatemalan designer with a taste for texture, depth and light volumes. He started presenting his collections four years ago in Vienna, Austria, during the MuseumsQuartier Vienna Fashion Week event, which takes place annually in the Austrian capital and has since gained a lot of notoriety and fans. As he prepares to return to Vienna for a fourth time, we interviewed him about the role of traveling in his design aesthetic. In 2016, you have created a collection called “A Journey to the Americas�. What was the motivation behind it? Juan Carlos Gordillo: My inspiration was to show a diverse America, packed with many cultures, but I also wanted to showcase a strong America. And I speak of the American continent. In the collection, I wanted to show an adventurous girl, very motivated to travel the continent, interested in discovering new cultures, their problems, but also their beautiful features.
What meaning does travel have in your life? JCG: Traveling is discovering cultures, people and lifestyles. But it also teaches me to understand how the world is actually running.
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Photo: Mine Kasapoglu, MQVFW
“Traveling is Luxury” What are your favorite places to travel? JCG: I love traveling to Spain, they have many things in common with Latin America. But I also love Vienna, Berlin and Mexico.
You have been presenting your collections in Vienna for three years now. Why is traveling such a long distance worth it for you? JCG: It is true that it is a huge distance. But to present my work in Vienna was worth
it, as it represented the birth of “Juan Carlos Gordillo” as a brand, and this process has been like the growth of a baby. Also, due to it, today, the public and professionals begin to recognize me as a designer.
32 Photo: Mine Kasapoglu, MQVFW
Photos page 35 top: Thomas Lerch, MQVFW
What did you take from discovering Austria back to Guatemala and into your collections? JCG: The most important thing that resulted from presenting in Austria was the embrace I got from the audience. What is one place you would like to travel to in the future? JCG: It’s a dream, but I would love to be able to see “Route 66” in the United States and do it Norman Reedus style with a Harley. It’s like a symbol of freedom... but honestly, there are many places that I would love to visit. To me, traveling is luxury, traveling is discovery. Thank you!
Photo: Mine Kasapoglu, MQVFW
Discover more of Juan Carlos’ designs on his IG at instagram.com/juancarlosgordilloofficial 33
LARS ANDERSSON Lars Andersson is a Swedish fashion designer who creates clothes inspired by the most grounded parts of society: from the nomadic tribes and ethnic clothes he uses as his aesthetic inspiration to his knitwear, which he is very fond of. His background is colorful and dynamic and Lars has gone through many things to come to do what he does today. In this interview, we discuss his background, his inspiration and, of course, his travels. What can you tell us about your background?
knitted so I wanted to do it too.
Lars Andersson: I was born and grew up in Sweden in a small town called Lindesberg. I studied two years of fashion in Sweden before at age 19 moving to Paris for 6 months. While in Paris, I applied to the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. I was accepted and moved there to start my studies in fall ’94.
It was not until I was about 17 that I decided I wanted to study fashion. I had seen a movie, Slaves of New York, and I wanted to create that fashion show. It was very dramatic.
At an early age in Sweden, I learned both how to sew and knit, as this is part of the Swedish educational system. And in kindergarten, this was also something that was taught to us. Also, both my mother and grandmother
Who or what are your main sources of inspiration? LA: I’m heavily inspired by different cultures, religions, tribes and nomads from around the world. I have spent lots of time in Kathmandu, Nepal where I do my full fashion knitwear, and since last year, I also spend a fair amount of time in Kolkata, India where I do my wovens and cut and sew. Both places are amazing for inspiration. I love the older women wear-
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Model: Agne Petkute Photographer: Therese Aldgard Stylist: Sarah Muenchrath Hair and Makeup: Kristian Kanika
Model: Sajid Alam Photographer: Soumnath Roy
ing the sari, and how in winter they layer them with their shawls and cardigans, my autumn-winter 2018 collection was very much inspired by this look. And for the men, the lungi and t-shirt. They look very chic wearing this. And many older men wear the super lightweight cotton kurta with the dhoti, which is also another fantastic look. There is an endless amount of inspiration in these places. How did you decide to travel around the world? LA: I was living and producing my work in NYC for about 10 years in my studio with my knitters. The last few years
when business grew, work was taking over and I was always working. In the end, it was no longer enjoyable. Then, a good friend of mine recommended a factory in Kathmandu, Nepal. Everything was handmade. It was similar to how I had always worked, but without me having to actually constantly knit, as there would be a factory producing the garments. I was reluctant to leave at first, given that I had never done work with a factory before, and, on top of, it was also on the other side of the world. I did a fair amount of research and finally in the fall of 2013, I decided to go. It was love at first sight. Kathmandu is amazing. Temples everywhere. Sadhus, women dressed in the sari. Incense in the air. Full of color. It was magical to me. I loved it. However, given that Nepal is a very poor country, it has its challenges. But the craftsmanship of the knitting is fantastic. And luckily for me, I love spending time there. Now I’m also spending lots of time in Kolkata, India. Here, I’m finding the same love for the crafts I found in Nepal, but now with hand loom weaving, khadi, embroidery, printing. West Bengal has a very rich crafts tradition. India in general is fantastic… Why do you think extremely grounded and old cultures appeal to you? LA: Craft is important to me.
It’s what drives me. Much of the people I’m inspired by, like nomads, tribesmen, old culture people and such, they still wear many traditional garments. Lots of handmade items, in the same ways they’ve done it for centuries. Despite this, my intention is to always do something modern and timeless with it. I am a very hands-on designer. I tend to drape and make patterns rather than draw the de-
madic culture, ethnic tribes and religion. What are you currently planning to do in the next months? LA: I’m currently developing my cut and sew jersey collection that I will be debuting on my webshop in the next couple of weeks, I’m working on my samples for my men’s spring 2019 collection which I will show at Tranoi, Paris during the men’s market event. Actually, I am very excited to bring back the men’s collection. Been a few years since I last did it. Thank you! Model: Juhie Gosh Photographer: Somnath Roy Make Up: Nabin Das
Model: Antonino Russo Photographer: Therese Aldgard Stylist: Sarah Muenchrath Grooming: Mike Potter
signs. I love spending time in the factories, the weaving villages, working with the crews to develop my designs. It’s so rewarding to see and learn about all they know. And, since for 10 years I sat and knitted daily, I feel close to the people who make these clothes. The skills they possess are fantastic. How would you describe your design aesthetic? LA: Minimal, timeless, urban bohemian, nomadic luxury, craftsmanship, modern classics infused / inspired by no-
Discover more of Lars’ designs at larsandersson.net 35
LOOKS THEORY
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5Fashion
Staples that Don’t GoOut of Style Photos: Attire Club Model: Adrian Samson
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ith trends coming in and out of fashion at a rather fast pace, many men are looking for timeless items they can invest in and make sure they will be able to wear for a long time and which they will be able to use in many types of outfits. Having a few items that don’t go out of style will not only help you save money, since you won’t be investing in new trends all the time, but it will save you time as well, as you will have a few go-to items that you’ll know you can’t go wrong with. And we all know that time is the new luxury. This is why, when going shopping, you can take these items into account…
Watch A watch is a symbol of timeless elegance, refinement and attention to detail. Since watches these days are not so much about telling time anymore, they have become jewelry pieces that act as great
style statements. A well-designed watch has a story to tell – from dive watches that let others know about your dynamic and adventurous personality to diamond-studded pieces that reflect a need for impeccable luxury.
A watch that is not extremely specific (such as digital watches) can go a long way in terms of versatility, since you will be able to mix and match it to a wide variety of looks, from simple day to day outfits to complete night looks. 39
Coat Since jackets of various aesthetics come in and out of style all the time, a classic coat in camel, black or even burgundy, is a piece that will be a great companion not through just one winter, but through many seasons. Moreover, a classic coat is a highly flexible piece in terms of mixing and matching: it can be worn with suits and ties or with jeans and boots. It’s a go-to item that can turn out to be a great investment. 40
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Leather Jacket Leather is an amazing material, as it is durable, flexible and gets only stronger in time. Moreover, unlike other materials, it helps your body stay at a good temperature regardless of season and is very protective. Its flexibility will make a leather jacket adapt to your body easily, which will make it look tailored to your size, thus giving you a polished and structured look. As we said on Attire Club before, everything looks more powerful in leather.
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Jeans Jeans are probably the goto pants for most men. And that is for a good reason. A high-quality pair of jeans will make a great investment in your wardrobe as it will be strong and comfortable for many years. Moreover, due to their neutral, yet bold look, well-cut jeans will make you look good and go with almost anything. Classic, blue jeans go with simple sporty t-shirts, long pants, shorts and a variety of shoes, from wingtips and boating shoes to sandals and, why not, slippers. 45
White Shirt A white shirt is a wardrobe saver. When you are in doubt about what to wear, put on a classic white shirt. Depending on the setting for which you are dressing, you can dress it up by adding a tie and blazer or dress it down, by simply opening a button or two. White shirts go with almost anything from dress pants to jeans and from classic blazers to leather jackets. 46
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FASHION WORLD
Images: Attire Club
Over the last years, there have been a lot of discussions in the fashion world on creating a new fashion system. According to giants like Lidewij Edelkoort, the fashion system as we know it is “obsolete” and needs a reconfiguration. For many people like Li Edelkoort, the image that represents the fashion of today is the “Nothing Changes” jacket by Russian designer Tigran Avetisyan. When we interviewed Tigran for the July 2017 issue of InCompany by Attire Club, he explained that the jacket represented the way he was feeling about the state of the fashion world today. And, while many people love fashion and discovering new clothes, there is a feeling that some things should change in the fashion system. Fashion and textiles are the world’s 4th largest value creator. This good standing of the style industry could be the reason why people in the business are so reticent to change: if you have something that works, why change it? How can you be certain that the things you will change will have positive results and not negative ones? 48
O The Main Problems
There are more possible reasons for this phenomenon. One, that the “fast fashion” trend has made clothing less interesting. The oversatu-
ration of the market makes people place less value on the clothes. 2018 is said to bring back the big labels, like Supreme did in 2017. In 1967, Roland Barthes wrote that “it is not the object but the name that creates desire; it is not the dream but the meaning that sells.” This is the concept on which luxury brands rely and are always looking to reinvent. And, for their respective markets, it works. But how about for a larger, more mainstream market? What are the values behind everyday clothes?
Two, the heavy discussions, or better said conflicts over the very concept of “identity” that have been at the forefront of news and legislation in the Western world make people be more reticent to clothes. For those in West, clothes are very strongly connected to identity and in a context where identity is in crisis, people tend to shy away from investing in new clothes, as apparel is deeply con49
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ne thing is for sure. As a recent Bloomberg article said, “apparel has simply lost its appeal”. What this means is that, while people are still interested in buying new clothes and accessories, the trend is a decrease in demand.
nected to our identity as individuals and as group members. On the other hand, the people in the non-Western world, while they are still buying enough clothes, are not very sure what attitudes and visions they want to encourage. They are careful about where their money goes.
a tremendous impact on the world of fashion. The fashion system will integrate blockchain technologies, which will lead to an increase in the buyer’s experience and will add to the system’s transparency. Moreover, cryptocurrencies will play a role in how fashion is sold and bought.
Thirdly, fashion is not in tandem with the desires of the market at large. Given that clothes and style in general has become so political, the world of fashion has become extremely exclusive. All those who are not interested in the political messages of clothes tend to feel left out. In the menswear sector we are seeing a strong discrepancy between the wants of men and the offer of the market. The clothing offered today is simply not interesting enough for the markets and, more than that, the overall image of the modern man is disconnected from what many men on a global level demand. In other words, the identities proposed by many brands don’t overlap with the identities modern men have or want to have.
As technology progresses, clothes and accessories will become integrated in what is called today the “Internet of Things”. Clothes will have a lot of technology integrated in them, which will be connected to the rest of the things we do, listen to, read, watch and even eat. For example, your clothes could take measurements of your body’s metrics, make an evaluation and give tips on improving your diet. This may sound a bit sci-fi, but in the January 2018 issue of InCompany by Attire Club, Pierre-Alexandre Fournier of Hexoskin gave details on how his brand’s clothes will give the wearer great insight into their state of health.
Solutions Digital technologies
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here are some relevant things that are most likely to mark the new shifts in fashion over the coming years. The latest developments in digital technologies will have 50
If this technology will mix with others, such as with clothes that measure the quality of the air around you and so on, one will be able to have a lot of insight into their own presence just by wearing clothes and checking their tablet or whatever device will be fashionable. Slow fashion
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second thing that will bring change to the fashion system is the
birth or rebirth of slow fashion. Many designers today are becoming more and more interested in creating clothes that are not line-produced, that are unique and that follow slow craft work. The future might very well be a combination between old craft and new technologies. It is not clear how the fashion system will change. The most probable scenario is to have a rebranding of both the very meaning of clothes and of the way we relate to them. It is of the highest importance to make sure that we don’t change the things that work well and that are great about fashion, as much of what fashion is already should not change. The fashion world is a strong and stable giant and there are many microsystems in it that work very well. However, certain things will demand a change whether we like it or not and thus, fashion insiders should be careful in the way they conduct their work in the years to come.
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Four Seasons Art
IN THEIR OWN WORDS
The Style Gate CEO
Alessandro Maria Ferreri Alessandro Maria Ferreri is the CEO of The Style Gate, a company dedicated to helping luxury brands develop their products, marketing and everything in between. He has a strong background in the world of fashion and luxury, having worked with brands like Jean Paul Gaultier, Etro, Marni, Vivienne Westood and more. In this InCompany by Attire Club interview, we discuss his background, style and more!
“The way you dress will always be an important business card” What can you tell us about your background? Alessandro Maria Ferreri: I want to start off by saying that in 2018, I will be celebrating the 20th anniversary of my career. I started working in luxury in 1998 after obtaining a degree in Management Engineering and having written, for Aeffe Group, the software that the pattern designers use to build a garment on AutoCAD. These very dense and long 20 years saw me managing different brands and “maisons”, both in Italy and Paris, handling all sort of collections, from haute couture to contemporary lines. This wide knowledge brought 52
me to found my own management services company 3 years ago. How did your interest in style and aesthetics spark? AMF: I believe teenage is the moment in which many people develop the passions that will accompany them all along their lives. I was very lucky to have my youth time in the 80s and 90s, years that have been crucial for the explosion of fashion. For masters like Versace or Jean Paul Gaultier, those years have been a blossoming time and for me, they were a great moment to start developing a real passion and interest in this world.
Who or what are your main style inspirations? AMF: For a man, it is not so easy at the moment to take inspirations from the actual male icons, as the we should all dress like Kanye West or Jared Leto. Still, there are phenomena that resonate quite well with my way of dressing: I don’t have a strict style, if I may say so, as I tend to be like many men today, who easily jump from Gucci to Cos depending on their mood. I appreciate a lot of what Junya Watanabe does and, in general, am a big fun of Croco accessories, in all forms and colors.
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What can you tell us about your website, TheStyleGate. com? AMF: My web site is my company profile. There, you can find a good part of my projects - those not covered by confidentiality agreements, feedback given by major luxury actors, a big section of interviews and there’s also a press section, along with videos and my complete bio. It is important that everybody can openly check who I am, what I do and who I work for, as transparency, integrity, experience and success stories are the pillars of credibility today. Many managers do not have any solid background and important accomplished projects. TheStyleGate. com has the possibility to show, through a mobile screen, the real me and convince you to use my services, in case you feel you need them. For all the rest, included the fancy parts, you can just Google my name and find many pages full of info and photos. What are, in your opinion the main ingredients for a good outfit? AMF: Everything starts from the shoes! Save your money on everything except shoes, which have to be always clean, beautiful and impeccable. You can have holes in your sweater, but, with a stunning pair 54
of shoes, the outfit will shine! Go bold and never have basic shoes, as people tend to judge you, looking at your feet. Shoes are, in my opinion, the only part of an outfit that can cost a real fortune: they are an investment on your image and your future! What are your obsessed with, fashion- and otherwise?
AMF: Unlike what many people might thing, am not really obsessed with fashion. Yes, I truly believe that, in the modern life, a smart outfit is a great help on many occasions, but money has to be spent using culture, elegance and a sense of style. I am obsessed with good manners, as they are essential in any interaction. I, for example, do not tolerate people who do not answer emails: not answering always shows something nega-
tive and I make sure that this is clear as day to everyone on my team. What are in your opinion, the biggest changes and trends we’ll see in the future in the luxury market at large and in the fashion business in particular? AMF: Nowadays customers tend to consume and digest fashion proposals with such a dangerous speediness that is very difficult to predict where all this will lead us. Still, it is quite clear that today’s business model, on which fashion has stood for the last 40 years has arrived to a point of no return and that we will unfortunately see many stars falling. Vetements, Gucci or Off White have become too loud to be able to last. People will soon need another drug, another religion to follow and another way to get excited. There are no more faithful customers and younger generations have many other interests than fashion. Still, the way you dress will always be an important business card: so find your style at H&M or Dior, or mix the two, but invest in it and remember to polish your shoes every day! Thank you Visit Alessandro’s website at thestylegate.com
SECRETS OF FASHION
A Short History of Pattern Making and the Russian Revolution The Russian revolution of 1917 brought not only political changes to the cultural scene of the country, but also a cultural shift. Because a new way of thinking and of doing things was now reinforced, a whole new approach to art and creative production was put in place. Everything from furniture to fabrics had to be reinvented in order to convey the messages of the new era. Clothing and fashion are always at the forefront of shaping the way people relate to society and to the way they relate to themselves. Thus, in order to push the idea that Russians now lived in an industrial society, new patterns and motifs had to be invented.
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he classic, beautiful leaves and flowers of the past were now replaced with mechanical, geometric motifs. To elevate the importance of the new patterns, the creators of these patterns we not seen as artisans, but rather as artists. Many of them, who were mostly women, were actually excited about merging textile creation with the new ideas of the revolution, as these ideas seemed fresh and modern.
The new designs were composed of geometrical shapes (squares, zigzags, grids, diamonds, circles) and often featured symbols such as gears and wheels. Of course, the sickle, hammer and red stars were also present in the sketches. These, however, did not become an instant trend, as they seemed a bit abstract for the average population.
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he more prevalent patterns featured motifs that were more practical and more related to everyday life. Thus, subjects such as industrialization, airplanes, factories and sports were the iconographic pro-
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tagonists of the Russian fabric patterns created between 1920 and 1930. These obviously had a propagandistic role. They pushed an agenda of what people were supposed to think about, which is always easier to do than to push notions of how to think.
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etails such as patterns, textures or prints are the background for any aesthetic and artistic movement and are a great way to discover the link between the economics, politics and social culture of a
time. In conclusion, it can be said that these pattern are extremely relevant from a historic point of view because they teach us how every detail of the fabric of society is important in order to shape the zeitgeist of a time.
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n perspective, now we can see how these patterns played a role in the new social arrangement of Russia. The patterns suggested a strong block of human activities, a repetitive sameness, which seems overly-mechanical and industrial. Older patterns that featured natural motifs were also repetitive, but they reminded the viewer of a garden, whereas the new ones, with their blocks and strong lines in Russian constructivist style, imposed a new type of approach to life; one where everything was controlled, nothing went out of line, where everything was predictable and any “imperfection�, meaning stepping out of the rows, was immediately noticeable. Humans were now framed into heavy, dull-rhythm structures.
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Current Obsessions Travel Watches
The BREGUET Classique 5157
The TAG HEUER Carrera Chronograph GMT
The OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M
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The ALBERT RIELE Concerto
The CALVIN KLEIN Achieve K8W371C1
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The JAQUET DROZ Tropical Bird Repeater
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TRAVEL & CULTURE
J for
JORDAN
The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan is a vibrant and dynamic country in the Arab world, that receives large numbers of tourists from all around the world each year. Its beautiful landscapes, rich history and welcoming people make it must-see destination for those who love to travel and have new and exciting experiences.
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AFTER PETRA, JERASH is the second most popular cities visited by the tourists. According to historical records, Jerash has been inhabited
since 3200 BC to 1600 AD. The city is divided in two parts, the old city and the new city. Old city is a city which is the ancient Roman heritage building, the new city is where the population lives now. ALONGSIDE EGYPT, Jordan is one of only two Arab nations to have made peace with Israel. In 1994, Jordan signed a peace treaty with Israel, ending the 46-year offi-
cial state of war. AMMAN, the capital of Jordan, was once named Philadelphia. It was named after Ptolemy Philadelphus (283246 BC) who rebuilt the city during his reign before Amman was taken by Herod around 30 BC and fell under the influence of Rome.
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THE ANCIENT CITY OF PETRA, known as “The Rose City� is famous for its unique architecture carved directly into the rock face. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New 7 Wonders of the World.
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THE NATIONAL DISH of Jordan is the mansaf. It is a traditional dish made of lamb, which is cooked in a sauce of fermented dried yogurt called jameed and served with rice or bulgur.
in Amman. In 2003, when it was raised, it was the tallest free-standing flagpole in the world. It was built from steel and erected on the grounds of Raghadan Palace at the royal compound of Al-Maquar.
SPEAKING OF FOOD, in Jordan it is polite to refuse the offer off a meal three times before accepting.
THE LOWEST POINT ON EARTH in terms of dry land is the shore of the Dead Sea in Jordan. It lies at 420m / 1378ft beneath sea level.
THE METRIC SYSTEM is the legal standard, but some local and Syrian units are still widely used, especially in the villages. THE RAGHADAN FLAGPOLE is a 126.8 meters / 416 feet tall flagpole located 62
JORDAN IS THE ONLY COUNTRY in its region without oil. DESPITE WHAT MANY THINK, Jordan has a combination of Mediterranean and arid desert climates, with
Mediterranean climates prevailing in the north and west of the country. The majority of the country is desert though.
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STYLE GUIDE
What is Thread Count And Why it Matters...
Wearing clothes made from quality materials is a very important aspect of looking your best. This is why, even as a consumer, one must understand a few essential things that define garments. This way, you can see clothes in a more nuanced light and make better decisions the next time you go shopping. One of these essential characteristics is “thread count”.
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hread count is one of the basic measures to understanding the quality of your clothes. It is specific to fabrics that are woven together by threads, like cotton and is used as a measure of fabric control all over the world.
Technically, thread count means the number of threads woven together in a square inch. You count both lengthwise (warp) and widthwise (weft) threads. So 100 lengthwise threads woven with 100 widthwise threads produce a thread count of 200.
The number of threads is usually an indicator people look for when buying bed sheets – in the industry it is known that the more threads a sheet has, the softer it is. It is said that 200 is a good thread count for sheets, while 400 is already considered to be very fine. Brands who reach for the 65
moon also go for thread counts of 1000. However, thread count is also a good way of understanding clothes, as you will be able to understand this indicator. For example, summer shirts that are extremely easy and light have a smaller thread count than a proper dress shirt, which should be very compact. As a point of reference, an average men’s t-shirt has a thread count of roughly 40-50 (single-ply). In comparison, a nice men’s dress shirt at some of the retailers who sell high-quality garments will start at 100-120
thread count (two-ply). As a side note, the ply is also an important aspect of a fabric. It defines the number of yarns that are twisted together to make a single thread, or single component, of fabric. Typical fabrics range from one-ply to three-ply with the most common varieties being two-ply and single-ply. The main difference between oneply and two-ply is the number of yarns that are twisted together to make a single thread that is then woven into the fabric. Single-ply means that
one yarn is twisted together while two-ply means that two yarns are twisted together. The result of this difference is that, generally, two-ply fabrics have a tighter weave and are heavier than single-ply fabrics. Therefore, ply is an important element to consider when comparing quality of fabric. This is why, it does not mean that a fabric of 120 thread count is of higher quality than fabric of 110 thread count unless you take ply into consideration as well. When it comes to materials such as cotton and thread count, the quality and type of your cotton will also have an effect on the way the fabrics were dyed or colored, as well as how you should wash and care for them. Therefore, taking thread count and ply into consideration when buying clothes or bed linens and when caring for them will help you make wiser decisions and maintain your clothes better in the long run.
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How to Be Mr. Fancy Pants at a Glance
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FASHION AND TECHNOLOGY
Money Matters:
FASHION & CRYPTOCURRENCIES Today, cryptocurrencies are everywhere. With their hyped appeal, they seem to have taken over the hearts and minds of many. But are they really the next big thing?
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he fashion industry is a field that always takes pride in being ahead of the game, always with one foot in the next season. Therefore, it did not come as a big surprise when the field was one of the very early adaptors of new cryptocurrencies. There are already a few fashion-specific coins out there and big media names such as Fashion TV are even taking a variety of cryptocurrencies from their advertisers. In Vilnius, Lithuania, there is even a physical store where people can pay with money from their digital wallets. All these things go to show that the people who shape the fashion industry have a strong faith in the power these currencies will have in the future.
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And that’s the state of cryptocurrencies for now. After the huge success of bitcoin, more and more people have released their own currencies, which, as it was economically expected, decreased their real value. But this should not mean that all cryptocurrencies will be worthless in the future. The contrary might be just the opposite. While many of these currencies are most likely to crumble and disappear, it is likely that there will be a few that will have tremendous success. In order to gain power, there are even conferences on fashion and blockchain that are organized (last year, such a conference was held during the Blockchain Fashion Week in Kiev, Ukraine). While there is not a very strong demand for digital
coins at the moment in the fashion industry, the technologies behind it, such as blockchian technology are more and more used in the field. For example, there is more and more discussion about integrating blockchain technologies in the labels of clothing in order to provide the customers with the reassurance that the items they bought are authentic. Furthermore, the idea of providing customers with information on where and how their clothing was made is also one that is seems to be of great interest to both manufacturers and customers. With the rise of newer technologies such as the Internet of Things – which can be seen very well in fashion items such as the smartwatch, what today seems a bit
alien and unpractical will become extremely handy and approachable in the near future. With the Google glasses and smartwatches, the fashion world placed itself once again ahead of the game. At the moment, cryptocurrencies are not centralized (given that that’s the idea behind them) and are not strongly regulated by governments or banks. Many organizations and people who develop such coins have a hard time with the legal aspects or simply with the trust aspect of the process. However, this can be just a matter of time. It is very likely that the future will bring a great economical shift, where such currencies will be-
come established. Once this will happen, it is most probable that they will become regulated, which will mean that many people will gain trust in them. There are of course also people who hope that decentralized currencies will lead to a decrease in state control over currencies, but that is not very likely to happen. “The Future is Cryptocurren-
cy� said a Fashion TV commercial and they might be right. Just as people transitioned from horses and carriages to cars and from classic TV channels to smart TV apps, so will we transition from classic money to digital money and look back at the times when we carried metal coins with us as an unnecessary oddity.
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STYLE GUIDE
What is a
Go-To Watch? Photos: Attire Club
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ith the rise of digital tehnologies, watches have shifted their main function from telling the time to being accessories that elevate the wearer’s style and let others know who you are without saying a word. A great watch that features both an impressive array of complications and that has a captivating visual appeal is something you definitely must have in your wardrobe. If you are not one to have many watches, you should definitely have one good, goto watch, which you can wear in any context and with any clothes. Having a go-to watch is useful from both a practical and a stylistic point of view.
Versatility
Always handy
A go-to watch is a timepiece that must be extremely versatile. In fashion, versatility means that it goes with anything in terms of clothes and that it can be worn in any context. Therefore, a go-to watch can be for example, metallic, as metals are neutrals and go with any color, as well as with any other metals, but also matte. Shiny watches don’t always go in any context, but an opaque metallic watch surely does. When you are searching for a go-to watch, always opt for one that is simple, but that still makes an impact and is sophisticated.
A versatile timepiece offers the advantage that it is easy to pick: unlike other accessories such as a tie, which implies choosing the right knot and knowing how to do it, or a bow tie, which can be stressful to choose, having a go-to watch will assure you that you will always have an element to style up even a very standard outfit. Moreover, as we already mentioned, a watch only requires a few seconds to put on and the only decision you need to make is the arm on which you will wear it, unlike the case of other accessories.
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A symbol For many people, and in many working fields, a watch is an essential style accessory. People who work on Wall Street for example love wearing watches as an indicator of their job – and that makes sense: men who work in banks for example always need to dress according to a dress code, which does not leave much room to communicate your job or personality, which is where a good watch comes in. Moreover, in certain European cultures or companies, wearing a great watch is a symbol that you are a professional. Also, a watch can be a great style statement during an interview, but you shouldn’t 74
make it all about the watch and try to impress the interviewer with it, not even in a subtle way.
You’ll be on time While it is highly obvious that a watch is meant to show the time, it does happen for your phone to run out of battery from time to time. In that case, you won’t be reachable, but at least you will be able to be on time. Of course, you can ask people for the time or always look at public watches, but looking at your watch is a lot better.
You’ll be in control Not only will you always be able to tell the time, but wearing a watch will make you look more confident even if
your phone is working. Always fishing for a big phone to check the time can look a bit desperate, while a glance at your wrist will make you appear more confident and relaxed. Having a go-to watch will bring not only style to your outfits and communicate lots about you, but it will also give you confidence and a positive attitude, as, as we always say, when you look great, you will also feel that way. This is why we definitely recommend investing in a watch that will match your needs, your style and your wardrobe and that will go a long way.
Always Addressing Power Dressing
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TRAVEL CALENDAR Photos: Attire Club
Europe is a fascinating continent that offers a multitude of touristic attractions. From political and historical sites to fantastic shopping areas and nightlife, one can find almost anything you wish in the Old Continent. Discover our Travel Calendar through Central and Eastern Europe. January - St. Moritz, Switzerland. January is not only a great time to visit St. Moritz because of the snowy mountains and the great skiing conditions, but also because it is the time when the Snow Polo World Cup takes place.
February - Milan, Italy. Milan is always a great town to visit. It is quintessentially Italian and a great destination for those who love art and shopping. And not to mention, Fashion Week. March - Basel, Switzerland. Those who love high-end watches and to discover the latest innovations in terms timepieces should not miss Baselworld, which takes place each year in March in this Northern Swiss city. April - Mulhouse, France. L’Alsace is a region that one must visit during the spring. Wherever you may go in the area, a visit to the beautiful city of Mulhouse, is mandatory.
May - Bratislava, Slovakia. The Slovakian capital of Bratislava barely feels like a capital. It is quiet, touristic and easy to get around. The air is clean and there are many travel destinations to check out, such as the iconic Bratislava castle. 76
June - Paris, France. The City of Lights is a magical place that does not need much introduction. This bare fact indicates what a fantastic destination it it. Paris has basically almost everything you may think of: shopping, museums, restaurants, great hotels and everything in between. Not to mention a vibrant night life and tons of events in every season.
July - Sidari, Greece. Sidari is a settlement in the northern part of the island of Corfu. It is a truly astonishing place where the sea meets with the land. The place is known for the Canal d’Amour, a unique rock formation in different shades of yellow and lots of greenery at the top. August - Strasbourg, France. Strassbourg is the formal seat of the European Parliament. It is known for its Gothic CathÊdrale Notre-Dame as well as its rich cultural landscape with many German influences. September - Salzburg, Austria. Salzburg is a must-go place for those who love Austria, Mozart and the Alps. The entire city is welcoming and very dynamic in terms of great attractions, events and souvenirs. October - Budapest, Hungary. The Hungarian capital is bisected by the River Danube and has a particular charm, as it is located right at the center between Western and Eastern Europe. November - Brasov, Romania. Located in a mountainous valley, this Transylvanian city looks like a gingerbread town during the cold months. It is minutes away from a great ski resort and has thus become a strong touristic attraction for those seeking something special. December - Vienna, Austria. The Austrian capital is known for many things: its musical scene, its great food, its museums and its one of a kind zoo. However, it is probably best known for its many Christmas markets, which take place each year during the months of November and December. These are a definite must-see in Central Europe.
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Fashion Ahead
The First Anti-Pollution Scarf by
WAIR French label WAIR has developed the first anti-pollution scarf. It is a professional protection device and a lifestyle accessory specifically designed to protect urban people from pollution and microparticles. It can be used with the SUPAIRMAN by WAIR app,which is a personal assistant that helps one live better in the city.
The WAIR scarf is a great idea because it mixes the usefulness of the anti-pollution technology it is based on with the fashion aspect of the item. Many people wear scarves, especially when riding a bike or communing and thus, having a two-inone piece helps them need less items to fulfil more tasks. For example, in cities that have rather big smog problems, such a scarf is a must-have, as it helps you ditch the protective mask many people wear. Moreover, a scarf can always add a nice touch to an outfit, as it adds dimension and depth to a look. For more, please visit wair.fr 78
There is definitely a strong focus today in fashion to have a combination of stateof-the-art technologies and style and it is most likely that that will be one of the big trends of the future. Clothing will more often than not also have a functional aspect to it, which will be based on technology and the WAIR scarf is definitely part of the avant-garde to that.
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STYLE GUIDE
28 One-Line Men’s Fashion & Style Tips At Attire Club, we are covering men’s fashion and style in every aspect and in from many angles. Our style tips can be applied by men of any age, size and apply to every kind of body type and budget. While we usually offer in-depth fashion advice, explaining the inner workings of men’s style, in this guide we have decided to create a checklist of 28 practical style tips in the form of one-liners.
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Jackets, shirts & pants 1. Whenever you are sitting, unbutton your dress jacket or blazer. 2. Always leave the lowest button of your jacket unbuttoned, unless you have a one-button jacket, which you can tie when you stand. 3. The collar of your jacket must touch the collar of your shirt. 4. A shirt must touch your body, without squeezing it tightly. 5. The shoulderline of a jacket or a shirt must match your shoulder line. 6. Don’t pull a tucked shirt out. 7. The cuffs of your shirt must pop not more than 1/2 inches / 1,3 cm from your jacket’s sleeves. 8. A true dress shirt has no pockets. 9. Your pants should have one or no folds at the bottom. 10. A tuxedo should always be worn with a bow tie.
Colors & patterns 11. Neutral colors – brown, black, gray, beige, khaki, tan, ivory, dark blue, go with any other color. 12. Thick stripes go with thin stripes. 13. Opposite colors such as blue and yellow go together well. 14. Colors that are similar, yet distinct, such as blue and purple go together greatly. 15. Metals go with any colors. 16. You can wear both silver and gold at the same time., since they are both neutral.
Accessories 17. Never wear both suspenders and a belt, as they serve the same purpose. 18. Matching your shoes to your belt will make you look great. 19. Wingtip shoes go with almost any type of outfit. 20. Keep the size of your accessories proportionate to your body. 21. A necktie should touch the line of your belt. 22. Men with round faces should wear rectangle glasses; men with more square faces can wear glasses with round frames. 83
Fabrics 23. Thin men can wear heavier fabrics to look bigger. 24. Bigger men can wear thin and soft fabrics to appear trimmer. 25. Don’t wear cotton in the wintertime.
Grooming & styling 26. A buzz cut is better to have than a badly maintained haircut. 27. For a smooth face, always shave with the grain. 28. To add volume and shape to your hair, dust hairspray from afar and model it easily. Remembering some quick and simple fashion and style rules will definitely help you to make better choices and to improve your looks. Making one small improvement to any outfit can make it look better in no time. This will make you not only look more polished and elegant, but it will also make you feel more confident and will give you a good attitude to do anything you need to do.
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THE ATTIRE CLUB MOOD DIARY 86
Our mood board as a visual journal
Owen Jones’
Grammar of Ornament True beauty results from that repose which the mind feels when the eye, the intellect, and the affections, are satisfied from the absence of any want. - Owen Jones, Grammar of Ornament First published in 1856, Grammar of Ornament was Owen Jones’ design masterpiece. The book is a lavish folio highlighting stunning patterns, motifs and ornaments in 112 illustrated plates. Each intricate illustration featured in the book explores design principles behind the architecture, textiles, manuscripts and decorative arts of 19 diverse cultural periods, with a final chapter revelling in the glory of the natural world. Grammar of Ornament was a monumental publishing project that achieved standards of colour printing that had never been seen before and 150 years later it is still in print.
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The Grammar of Ornament cover
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Top: Egyptian ornaments Bottom left: Egyptian ornaments Bottom right: Greek ornaments
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Pompeian ornaments
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European Renaissance ornaments
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Celtic ornaments
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Celtic ornaments
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Turkish ornaments
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Illuminated ornaments
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AC WORLD
Fuse Ambition The Efraim bow tie was created for the fall-winter 2015-16 Style Portfolio, Fuse Ambition. The aesthetic is based on the clash between the wilderness of colors and the structural, cultural processing of colors. In fashion, colors have the ability to transform a season and, by extension the way you see the world and your mood.
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Discover more at attireclub.org
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QR Code Glossary
Discover the websites featured in this issue!
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Amaze London u amaze-london.com Page 2
Lars Andersson u larsandersson.net Page 35
Franck Dubarry u franckdubarry.com Page 12
Liev Arts u lievarts.com Pages 51, 99
Badrutt’s Palace u badruttspalace.com Page 17
The Style Gate u thestylegate.com Page 54
Luca Vezil u lucavezil.it Page 29
Transylvanian International Piano Competition u tipnoc.com Page 55
Juan Carlos Gordillo u instagram.com/ juancarlosgordilloofficial Page 33
Wair u wair.fr Page 78
LievArts.com
Natural Art
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InCompany by Attire Club was an official press partner for Baselworld 2018
Photograph of Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin at a press conference during his visit to Finland. Photo: Arto Jousi / Suomen valokuvataiteen museo / Alma Media / Uuden Suomen kokoelma
IChAC