WINTER 2018
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CONTENTS 4 First Sight
24Alternative safaris
10Escape Routes
to Head: Brazil vs Argentina 30Head
A selection of our specialists’ images from 2017, showcasing the best of Morocco, India and Australia.
Travel news, from brand new stays to the latest flight routes. We reveal the season’s best books, events and apps; plus biking through northwestern Argentina.
16Europe
Our experts help you make the most of a city break by sharing their dream 48 hours in Paris, Rome and London.
A growth in great-value stays and self-drive safaris is putting Tanzania, Botswana and South Africa’s big game front.
Explore the wildlife of the Pantanal or the Iberá Wetlands.
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South Australia
From the urban charms of Adelaide to the diverse wildlife of Kangaroo Island, South Australia has much to be discovered.
22Top 6: Bucket list 2018 38Just Back From…
Tasmania, Rwanda and Bhutan all feature on our specialists’ wishlist of this year’s most exciting destinations.
Our specialists report back from their latest research trips in Vietnam, Sri Lanka, Jordan and Scotland.
Hours in... Tokyo 4048
Whether you’re exploring ancient Buddhist shrines or soaking in the neon lights, the irresistible mix of the buzzing Japanese capital’s old and new guarantees you’ll be transported back to the future.
44Travelers’ Tales
Stories and photographs from our readers’ eye-opening Audley adventures: from the icy wonders of Patagonia to the deltas of Botswana.
Thailand 48Q&A:
Visiting elephants responsibly, relaxing on the beach and discovering culinary delights… our experts answer your most pressing questions about the Land of Smiles.
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WELCOME
Dear Traveler The setting of winter couldn’t be a more inspirational time for planning upcoming adventures. As the cold begs you to stay inside, your mind has time to wander and dream of places comprised of flavors you have yet to try and sights unseen. We’ve included plenty of ideas to inspire. On page 16 our specialists uncover the secrets of London, Paris, and Rome and give you their suggestions for how to make the most of two days in what are arguably Europe’s most iconic cities. If traveling to a warmer destination sounds particularly appealing, we have included alternatives to the classic safari options (p24). With self-drive routes and new game reserves that offer unique lodging options. On page 32 we take you to Australia where our specialists describe their favorite places in Southern Australia, a place full of unsung destinations rarely frequented by travelers. As you read we hope your lengthy bucket list continues to grow, however, if you are in need of a few additional ideas head to page 22 where we have some suggestions! Happy winter reading,
Jacqui Lewis Managing Director
77 N Washington St, 6th Floor, Boston, MA 02114 Telephone: 1-855-838-8300 Website: www.audleytravel.com The vacations featured in this magazine are suggestions only and will be customized to fit your travel dates and preferences. All prices quoted are exclusive of international flights and subject to change. Designed by Wanderlust Travel Media. CST#2117258-40 | Fla. Seller of Travel Ref. No. ST39468. Images supplied by Audley travellers, staff and suppliers, Mathieu Dupuis/Le Québec maritime, Robert Harding, Alamy, TASCHEN, National Geographic Creative/ Hugo van Lawick, Superstock, iStock and AWL
FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA FOR DAILY TRAVEL INSPIRATION Tag @AudleyTravel and #TheAudleyWay to share your travel photos with us.
Contributors Matt Malkin Australia & New Zealand specialist Matt’s passion for travel was ignited during his first trip abroad at 16 to visit relatives in Sydney. With every future visit to Australia, his love of this unique country continues to grow. Favorite place to warm up? The hot glacier pools in the heart of the New Zealand rainforest on the South Island.
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THINGS we’ve learned in this issue
Victoria Schennum UK & Ireland specialist Victoria may be marginally biased as a Londoner herself but she believes London is the best city in the world. She has enjoyed leading the UK & Ireland team so everyone has the chance to experience London like a proper local. Favorite place to warm up? The incredible Manor House in Bath, sitting by the fireplace with a cup of tea and cake. Amanda Mackenzie Japan specialist A former resident of Tokyo, Amanda can usually be found plotting out which restaurants to visit on her next trip to Japan’s capital. Favorite place to warm up? A private outdoor hot spring bath at Kinnotake Tonosawa in Hakone National Park.
On the cover The view over Paris, France Learn how to make the most of 48 hours in Paris on page 19. For more information, call our France specialists on 855-593-2104 or request a copy of our latest brochure at www.audleytravel.com/us/ brochures WINTER 2018
EXPLORE EUROPE Take a fresh look at the classic capitals – Paris, London and Rome
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The estimated $3,500 in coins that is thrown into Rome’s Trevi Fountain each day – traditionally thrown using the right hand over the left shoulder – are collected to support local charities (p21). It’s illegal to take coins out of the fountain.
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Selous Game Reserve in Tanzania has the largest population of lions in all of Africa (p28).
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Resident to Kangaroo Island, Australia, the notoriously shy echidna are one of the few mammals that lay eggs (p37).
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The Tokyo Skytree is not only the tallest building in Japan, it is also one of the best places to try traditional candies (p41). AUDLEY TRAVELER | 3
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FIRST SIGHT
PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION WINNERS Our specialists are passionate about travel, and many are equally passionate about photography. Each year, staff members enter their favorite images from their research trips in our photography competition. Here are 2017’s winners...
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THE ERG CHEBBI, MOROCCO By Olivia Snow, Morocco & Jordan specialist �One of my favorite places in Morocco to photograph is the Erg Chebbi and its sea of dunes. In the golden hours of the day, the sand shimmers with swirling patterns made by the wind, so every dune is distinct. I snapped this photo just before sunset. The shadows cast by the sinking sun outlined our profiles against a rising dune, and I loved the contrasting colors of the sand and the blue gandoura worn by my guide, Hamid. The Erg Chebbi offers such a different environment within Morocco, and the rolling sand dunes create the perfect backdrop for striking photography.�
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KERALA, INDIA By Susan Cunningham, China specialist ”This picture was taken on a trip to India during a day-long boat trip through Kerala’s backwaters. Kerala is a relaxing departure from the energy found elsewhere in India, and taking a cruise along its palm-shaded canals was an ideal way to wind down. We started the day with a traditional Keralan breakfast of iddiyapam – nests of rice noodles covered with cinnamon and shredded coconut. After boarding, the only order of the day was to sit back and enjoy the waterways. Kingfishers darted among the trees, local children splashed by the banks, and mullet fish swam beneath us.”
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‘FIELD OF LIGHTS’ & THE MILKY WAY, ULURU, AUSTRALIA By Mark Robinson, Australia & New Zealand manager ”For me, there’s no finer place to stargaze than the Outback. But walking within Bruce Monro’s colorshifting ‘Field of Light’ artwork – which carpets a patch of the ancient, sacred ground surrounding Uluru (Ayers Rock) – it’s difficult to decide if you should lose yourself in the lights on the ground or those light-years away in the sky above: it’s as if you’re suspended between the past and the present. To bring this destination alive, I used a tripod and a 30-second exposure to coax out the detail.” The installation is on display until 31 December 2020.
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ESCAPE ROUTES
TRAVEL NEWS | FLIGHT DECK | SOCIAL TALK | CHECK IN
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WHAT’S NEW
New year, new experiences Now that the festive season is officially over, we’re thinking about where our wanderlust will take us next. Whether it’s an outbackfocused tour of Sydney, a behind-the-scenes look into a French boulangerie or taking a canoe trip in Rwanda that appeals – we have plenty of new experiences to enrich your travels in 2018. Find out more about the latest experiences recommended by our specialists at www.audleytravel.com/us/2018-experiences or call 1-855-838-8300 to speak to a specialist directly about your travel plans.
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ESCAPE ROUTES
Tokyo in Numbers
Exploring Halong Bay and beyond
FLIGHT DECK The latest flight news
Cathay Pacific has announced the launch of their longest non-stop flight, totaling a full 17 hours of flying time. The flight will connect Washington DC and Hong Kong on their A350 aircraft. Volaris launched three brand new routes between California and the Mexican cities of Morelia and Zacatecas. The routes connect Morelia with both San Jose and Fresno and Zacatecas with San Jose. On December 15th Avianca Brazil launched a direct flight between Sao Paulo and New York. The route departs daily. Qantas has added to its domestic flights with Australia with a new route connecting Melbourne and Kingscote. The route which will be flown on Q400s is the first of its kind. American Airlines has launched daily flights connecting Miami with Cartagena, Colombia. This short three hour flight makes it easier to find the warm Caribbean sun in the depths of winter.
We’ve been looking at new ways to explore Halong Bay as cruise companies begin to reinvent their routes to include lesser-visited regions. Options include the Paradise Prestige, a new 15-cabin boat that travels through Halong Bay on a three-day, two-night cruise to Bai Tu Long Bay, not far from the border with China. For a more luxurious stay, the opulent Orchid Cruise departs from nearby Haiphong. This five-star sailboat is the first to explore Lan Ha Bay, which lies south of Halong Bay, jutting out into the South China Sea. For more information, speak to the Vietnam team on 1-855-838-0140.
21,000 Restaurants and food stalls where you can dine on ramen
9 million People call the Japanese capital home
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People can be seen simultaneously crossing the street at the famous Shibuya Crossing
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Michelin Star restaurants to enjoy
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Subway lines traversing the city
Find a fresh view over South Africa Our new cycling experience in Knysna, on the Garden Route, takes you on a journey of discovery around the historic logging town’s lagoon and scenic Thesen Island. A local guide will point out native plant life and take you to the best viewpoints for the renowned Knysna Heads while highlighting the historical importance of the region. This is an easy and relaxed ride that ends at Thesen Island, which features a good variety of restaurants and bars for a thirst-quenching post-cycle drink. For more information, contact our South Africa specialists on 1-855-838-0550. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 11
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CHECK IN
The most exciting new stays Santani Wellness Resort & Spa, near Kandy, Sri Lanka Santani Wellness Resort & Spa (pictured) is Sri Lanka’s first dedicated wellness resort. It’s set within a wilderness overlooking the Knuckles Mountain Range, outside Kandy. The property’s 20 minimalistic villas, Ayurvedic spa and yoga classes provide the ideal retreat. Titanic Hotel, Belfast, Ireland Situated in the city’s regenerated dockyards, this new hotel was built within a converted 19th century shipbuilding office of Harland & Wolff, responsible for the construction of the Titanic, among many others. The hotel offers contemporary comfort while paying homage to the building’s heritage. The Oberoi, Marrakesh, Morocco A tranquil, luxury spa resort, The Oberoi, Marrakesh, is just 20 minutes from the city center. Located on its own private island, it lounges among citrus orchards and olive groves and has spectacular views of the Atlas Mountains.
Exploring Argentina on two wheels
Lakestone Lodge, Lake Pukaki, New Zealand On the shores of Lake Pukaki, Lakestone Lodge boasts six bedrooms with floor-to-ceiling windows and breathtaking views of the Southern Alps and the lake itself. The lodge’s grounds lend themselves to nature escapes — ideal for a quintessential New Zealand experience.
The Quebrada de las Conchas is a suitably dramatic backdrop for our new cycling experience through northern Argentina. This largely untouched region is home to incredible desert scenery and imaginatively named natural rock formations. Cycle past the ‘Amphitheatre’ and the ‘Tres Cruces’ (‘Three Crosses’) scenic viewpoint,
before stopping for a snack break. Then continue along the road to pass the formations of ‘El Sapo’ (The Toad), ‘El Fraile’ (The Monk) and ‘La Casa de los Loros’ (The Parrot House) until you reach an observation point called ‘La Yesera’ overlooking mineral-rich, strikingly multi-colored rock faces. For more information, please contact our Argentina specialists on 1-855-838-8630.
Join the Audley family We are excited to announce the launch of our brandnew careers website. You can learn about what it’s like to work at Audley, as well as view the latest news and job opportunities. Find out more about our offices in Boston, Witney and London (UK) and gain an insight into our awardwinning team. For regular updates, you can sign up to our weekly careers newsletter. For more information, please visit careers.audleytravel.com/us/ 12 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
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$95,000 raised for WE Charity Back in 2016 Audley pledged to rebuild a community health clinic in rural Kalthana, for WE charity. A year on and we’ve completed a host of fundraising efforts, from bake sales, bike rides and language classes, to marathons in Boston and London. As our final fundraiser, we hosted a talk by awardwinning producer Dr. Chadden Hunter (left), who revealed the secrets of making BBC’s Planet Earth II. We’re delighted to tell you that we’ve raised over $95,000. Over the past year, members of our fundraising team visited Kalthana to witness the project’s development, including the opening of the new health clinic. WE staff have since been able to bring basic health services and initiatives to Kalthana, with a focus on early childhood education and maternal health. We’ve enabled health education classes and introduced a new style of stove that combats respiratory diseases. Each year our staff nominate and vote for a new Charity of the Year. For 2018 we are pleased to announce ShelterBox as our new charity. By providing shelter and tools for families robbed of their homes by disaster, ShelterBox is transforming despair into hope.
What to READ?
What to WATCH?
What to SEE?
What to DOWNLOAD?
Looking for some spectacular travel inspiration? TASCHEN Books’ Around the World in 125 Years artfully collates a century of National Geographic’s horizon-broadening coverage and award-winning images into a neat collection of three heavyset volumes.
Thanks to her landmark study of chimps in Tanzania’s wilds, Dr Jane Goodall is one of the world’s most revered conservationists. Using rediscovered archive footage, Jane documents her studies and battles against the patriarchy. Showing in select theaters until the end of February.
The largest collection of King Tut artefacts to ever be displayed worldwide – 150 original objects including jewelery and sculptures – can be seen at the California Science Center in Los Angeles, starting March 24th and running until 2019. Book tickets at www.californiasciencecenter.org
If you like sharing images and updates directly from your travels, Wiffinity is an app that allows you to access WiFi locations around the world, so you no longer need to worry about roaming charges. You can also access maps in multiple travel destinations. Available on iOS and Android. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 13
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RECIPE
Brinjal Pahi (Eggplant curry) By Chloë Musson, Sri Lanka specialist
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f all the rich, flavorsome curries that make up Sri Lankan cuisine, it’s the eggplant curry (brinjal pahi) that tends to be the firm favorite. However, some say it can be a challenge to recreate at home – and quite time consuming. Thankfully, the owners of Rosyth Estate in Kegalle, near Kandy, have kindly shared their family recipe, and it’s certainly worth the effort. Traditionally, this would be served with rice and coconut sambal, a spicy condiment made from desiccated coconut, fish flakes and chilli. Ingredients ½ lb eggplant, julienne cut garlic and curry leaves. ½ teaspoon turmeric powder 4. Remove excess oil from ½ teaspoon salt the deep-fried ingredients. Vegetable oil for deep frying 5. Sauté the other half of the 1 onion, finely sliced onion and the whole spices, 2 cloves of garlic, finely sliced adding the curry powder, 1 cinnamon stick chilli and mustard. 3-4 cardamom pods 6. When the onions ¼ cup white wine are soft, add TOP TIP or cider vinegar sugar, vinegar, “Serve with jasmine 2 tablespoons mango chutney, or coconut rice for mango chutney tomato sauce more flavor with a sweet twist.” 4 tablespoons and coconut milk. tomato sauce 7. Add eggplant to 2 tablespoons sugar the sauce. 1 tablespoon mustard 8. Garnish with the 1 tablespoon chilli powder remaining deep-fried onion, 2 tablespoons curry powder garlic and curry leaves. 1 sprig of curry leaves 1 tomato, finely chopped Rosyth Estate have recently 1 cup coconut milk compiled their own recipe book, Salt to taste which can be purchased after taking one of their cooking Preparation classes at the hotel. For every 1. Add the salt and turmeric to cookbook sold, they will donate the eggplant and mix well. RS 1,000 ($6.50) to a local 2. Deep fry the eggplants in primary school they sponsor, small batches and set aside helping to buy items like shoes, (a generous amount of oil in toothbrushes and stationery for a standard frying pan will do). the children, as well as updating 3. Deep fry half the onion, the classrooms and playground.
SOCIAL TALK We love to see your updates – tag your social media posts with #TheAudleyWay and @AudleyTravel to share them.
We’ll be at Kicheche Camp @OlPejeta to celebrate our 25th Wedding Anniversary @audleytravel – @WhitLeaze Loved Vietnam. You are a fantastic travel company and haven’t failed us in our expectations! – Margaret Skelly
Uluru is just stunning. Having a fantastic time in Australia @audleytravel #loveOz #amazingskies – @Ljperkins1969 Thanks to @audleytravel for helping arrange this surprise (right) – Kerry Whitelegg
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TRIP PLANNER We’ve introduced a brand new tool on our website that provides you with your own space to store ideas for your next trip. As you browse destinations, suggested itineraries, hotels and experiences, click on the to drop them into suitcase icon your personal Trip Planner. When you’re ready to start discussing your trip with us, all of your ideas and inspiration will be saved in one place. To get started, just visit www.audleytravel.com/us/trip-planner and look out for the suitcase icon.
www.audleytravel.com/us/trip-planner
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A tale of three cities
LOND
PARIS How do you make the most out of Europe’s trio of classical cities when you’re pushed for time? We asked our England, France and Italy specialists to create their dream two-day itineraries for time-limited visitors
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EUROPE Democratic destination Rebuilt many times, the Palace of Westminster has been home to the English Parliament since the 16th century
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hough they are built on ancient foundations, Europe’s great capitals are always evolving. Over the past 2,000 years, London, Paris and Rome have all been hubs of sprawling empires and they remain vital centers of culture and innovation today. You could spend a lifetime discovering the history and attractions of each. This is not to say that you can’t get a real sense of the city if you only have a couple of days. We asked three of our Europe specialists to each craft an ideal two-day itinerary for their favorite capital, sharing local secrets and a few must-see sights.
LONDON Victoria Schennum UK & Ireland Specialist
DAY 1
Get your bearings with a two-hour guided tour in a vintage Mini Cooper. The agile vehicle can navigate the city’s narrow lanes, taking you places a regular car can’t. Your driver-guide will acquaint you with London’s key neighborhoods, winding backstreets and passing iconic sights such as Big Ben, the Tower of London, Westminster Abbey and Trafalgar Square. Get dropped off at the sprawling St James’s Park, which offers views of Buckingham Palace and a colony of pelicans – a gift from the Russian Ambassador in the 1600s. From here, afternoon tea at the Ritz Hotel is just a short stroll away. Enjoy dainty bites on a tiered silver tray, as well as an assortment of teas chosen by the resident tea sommelier.
After tea time, take the Tube (London’s metro system) to Marylebone. You can spend the afternoon wandering around the neighborhood’s cobbled streets, ducking in and out of independent boutiques, admiring the genteel Georgian architecture, and even visiting the Sherlock Holmes Museum at 221b Baker Street. In the evening, indulge in interactive cocktails at Artesian Bar. Set in the imposing Langham Hotel. I love this chic establishment that elevates cocktails from mere drinks into works of performance art. Thus fortified, take your place in the line for Barrafina, a Michelin-starred tapas bar in nearby Soho. After dinner, you’re well-placed to catch a show in London’s famed West End, or perhaps a musical performance at the renowned Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club.
DAY 2
Catch the Tube to Old Street Station and wander through Shoreditch, marveling at the eye-catching street art. The area is
known for its vibrant and dynamic assortment of guerrilla art, including colorful spray-paint murals and wry public statues. You might even see an original Banksy. From there, head through Columbia Flower Market to Brick Lane – a cultural melting pot with more art as well as some well-known curry houses. If Indian food doesn’t appeal, nearby is Old Spitalfield Market, where there are plenty of streetfood options, or the Hawksmoor steakhouse is a sound bet for a traditional Sunday roast. In the afternoon, I suggest taking a private tour of St Paul’s Cathedral. If you’re comfortable with steep stairs, climb to the Golden Gallery in order to enjoy the viewing
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PARIS Liz Marjollet France specialist
DAY 1
Begin your day in a properly Parisian manner on a leisurely chocolate-andpastry-themed walking tour through the Left Bank. Your private guide will introduce you to the artisans who make these delightful confections and explain the history behind them. After walking off the sugary treats, make way for lunch at a traditional cafe in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. If the weather permits, I’m fond of sitting outside under the classic striped awning at Le Pré Au Clercs, the cafe’s corner location makes it perfect for people watching. Continue your exploration with a private tour of Île de la Cité and Île Saint-Louis – two islands that form the historical and spiritual heart of Paris. Linger over Notre-Dame’s
leering gargoyles and flying buttresses, and witness the incredible stained-glass windows of the Sainte-Chapelle. Then move onto the quiet, residential streets of Île Saint-Louis, all the while taking in tales of the area’s storied past. Head back across town for a behind-thescenes tour of one of the most recognizable monuments in the world. Your guide will reveal the inner workings and hidden corners of the Eiffel Tower, including the Champ de Mars bunker, once used as a center of military communications, and the control room. From here, stroll to Le Procope for a fashionably late dinner at the city’s oldest continually run cafe. Founded in 1686, this venerable establishment has served the likes of Benjamin Franklin, Voltaire, Rousseau, and Napoleon Bonaparte, whose hat is displayed in a glass case (allegedly left as collateral against a bar bill he could not pay). The classically French menu includes my personal favorite, coq au vin.
platform at the top of the dome. From here, the panoramas of London are unparalleled. Nearby, Jamie Oliver’s Barbecoa steak house has excellent views of the cathedral. End the evening with a post-dinner drink at Sky Garden, a 500-foot-high glass-domed garden featuring several bars, a lounge and terrace, atop one of London’s most striking buildings: the ‘Walkie-Talkie’. Admission is free, but you’ll need to book a slot ahead of time to enjoy the views of the city’s skyline.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: A direct flight to London from New York is about 7 hours, or 10.5 hours from Los Angeles. When to go: You can visit London at any time of the year, but you may prefer visiting in the temperate (and also much less crowded) months of spring and autumn. Get me there: A 12-day tailor-made trip to the UK, including time in London, starts from $7,995 per person. For more information: Contact our UK and Ireland specialists on 855-593-2006.
Paris is calling The Eiffel Tower has loomed over Paris for over 125 years
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After a refreshing night’s sleep, you can tackle the Louvre. This palace-turnedmuseum houses one of the largest collections of art in the world, an overwhelming proposition. Even after visiting many times, I still recommend a private guide to steer you past the crowds and pinpoint works that will appeal to your personal taste. Afterward, replenish yourself with lunch in one of the traditional cafes that fill the cobbled streets of Le Marais. Au Petit Fer à Cheval is a well-respected cafe with a narrow green entrance and a horseshoeshaped bar. There are only a few sidewalk tables out in front where you can watch the world stroll by. In the afternoon, take a walking tour of Montmartre, the hill-top quartier where luminaries like Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, and Picasso once lived. At the top of the hill, pause at the Sacré-Coeur Basilica for a panoramic view of the city. Enjoy a pre-dinner aperitif at the rooftop bar of Terrass’’ Hotel, which boasts the city’s best view of the Eiffel Tower, especially when it’s lit up at night. Finally, if Fit for kings The interior of Paris’s 13th-century SainteChapelle church; (left) enjoy delicious chocolates on a walking tour
you’ve planned well ahead, you can adjourn for dinner at the Michelin-starred Le Jules Vernes restaurant on the second platform of the Eiffel Tower itself, or consider an elegant dinner cruise down the Seine instead.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: It’s about 7.5 hours to Paris from New York City, with direct and indirect options available from a choice of regional airports. When to go: Summer in Paris can often be hot and crowded. Instead, try to visit the city in the cooler spring or autumn months. Get me there: A 12-day tailor-made trip to France, including time in Paris, starts from $10,595 per person. For more information, contact our France specialists on 855-593-2104.
ROME Shannon Yates, Italy Specialist
DAY 1
Breakfast as the Romans do: standing at a cafe bar with an espresso or cappuccino. If you’d like something more substantial, add a cornetto, a horn-shaped pastry that’s similar to a croissant with assorted sweet fillings. Once you’ve fueled up, get an early start on the three major ancient Roman sites: the Forum, Palatine Hill and the Colosseum. A private guide is ideal here to navigate away from the crowds and help you understand the millennia-old ruins, adding the context and history necessary to make sense of the sometimes-skeletal remains. After a busy morning, slow down for a leisurely lunch at Osteria Barberini. This simple trattoria (restaurant) is tucked into a small backstreet and features a truffle-based menu that attracts a crowd of mostly local office workers. In the afternoon, indulge all your Roman Holiday fantasies with a guided tour of the city on a classic Vespa. The motorbikes can nimbly navigate Rome’s streets, especially in the narrow lanes and leafy piazzas of Trastevere. Your driver-guide will narrate 20 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
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Roman roofs The view over Italy’s capital from Castel Sant’Angelo; (left) Piazza Navona; (bottom) taking a Vespa tour
DAY 2
Wake up early to beat the crowds at the Vatican Museums with a private guide. Notable even in a country known for its artistic heritage, the museums’ collections are enormous and can be overwhelming, even to repeat visitors. Across the river, Piazza Navona is a graceful cobbled square bounded by baroque palazzi and filled with open-air artists at work. It boasts three fountains, including Bernini’s flamboyant Quattro Fiumi, which depicts four rivers personified as muscular men clustered around an Egyptian obelisk. Lunch at one of the many cafes that line the piazza, and if you choose the route, giving you an overview of the city’s layout and stopping at a few lesser-known sites that most tours miss, like the Roman Spa. When you’re done, have your driver leave you at Campo de’ Fiori to explore its bustling streets. Home to a lively market by day, the area turns into a boisterous open-air party in the evening as locals and visitors alike flock to the many bars and eateries that line the piazza. I like to have a Negroni and enjoy the appertivo buffet at Bar del Fico. Lively and informal, the restaurant is named after an ancient fig tree that grows in the square, but it’s also a play on words: ‘fico’ is also Italian slang for ‘trendy and cool’.
your table well, you can watch a painter transform a blank canvas into a work of art. After lunch, spend the afternoon exploring central Rome. You can throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain and know that your wishes are collected to support the city’s various charities. Climb the Spanish Steps to visit the Chiesa della Trinità dei Monti, a 16th-century church, and marvel at the 2,000-year-old Pantheon. The area is also known for chic designer shops. On your last night, take a terrace seat at the rooftop Aroma Restaurant. Chef Giuseppe Di Iorio’s Michelin-starred menu is rivaled only by the restaurant’s view of the Colosseum.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: It’s around 8.5 hours from New York City to Rome, and there are flights from a number of regional airports. When to go: Though you can go to Italy any time of year, it’s better to visit Rome in the spring or autumn, when there are fewer visitors crowding the city’s streets and the weather is pleasant. Get me there: A 10-day tailor-made trip to Italy, including time in Rome, starts from $5,620 per person. For more information, contact our Italy specialists on 855-787-3971. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 21
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OUR BUCKET LIST DESTINATIONS FOR 2018 Only the freshest, most exciting and innovative places have made it on to our specialists’ ultimate trip wishlist into a troubled past gorilla conservation island hopping Northern Ireland Rwanda Indonesia 1Journey 2Support 3Go Take a ride back through recent history on a black cab tour of Belfast with a local cabbie who will share first-hand accounts of life during The Troubles, the period of political turmoil that ended with the signing of the Belfast Peace agreement just 20 years ago. Then head further back to relive Northern Ireland’s shipbuilding heyday with a visit to the city’s regenerated dockyards that play home to the Titanic museum, and the new Titanic Hotel (p12). Coupled with the beauty of the spectacular Causeway Coast (as depicted in Game of Thrones), it’s no wonder the region topped Lonely Planet’s list of regions to visit in 2018.
With the 2017 opening of two fantastic eco-lodges, One & Only’s Nyungwe House and the Bisate Lodge, Rwanda is ideal for travelers seeking comfort that supports conservation. While the increased gorilla trekking permit fees in 2017 made some people rethink a visit, the change deserves a second look. It reflects a strategy shift toward limiting tourism’s footprint on the primates’ habitat, ensuring the sustainability of conservation initiatives and helping generate revenue for communities living around Virunga Volcanoes National Park. Rwanda is also great for travelers short on time thanks to minimal travel distances, and can easily be combined with a safari in East Africa.
new world comforts Bhutan 4Enjoy
wildlife and wilderness lost civilizations Tasmania Northern Peru 5See 6Explore
Bhutan attracts a certain kind of intrepid traveler – willing to travel great lengths to experience this remarkable land. This year, thanks to significant progress on Bhutan’s massive road maintenance project, travel time on itineraries around Bhutan is expected to decrease dramatically, making a multi-point trip more manageable. Timing couldn’t be better for the opening of five new Six Senses properties this year in Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey, Bumthang and Paro. Travelers will be able to comfortably travel between all five to create a well-rounded journey, combining thoughtful immersion into the local culture with proven luxury stays.
Head to Australia’s lesser-visited island of Tasmania for what’s now regarded as the country’s best multi-day hiking tours and scenery. We’ve seen growing interest in the island, which luckily hasn’t affected the relative value of travel here. Travelers can stay in style while learning about the history of the former-penitentiary island at the new 5-star MACq 01. Each room tells a story about a certain characteristic that impacted Hobart history, giving travelers the unique opportunity to learn about the island’s convict roots and their ongoing impact on Tasmania’s unique culture, art and food.
While Bali’s long been considered a top beach destination, we have been seeking options to visit its numerous rural communities to offer beach-goers a more immersive experience. We’ve developed multi-day tours in Sidemen and De Klumpu focused on responsible travel and traditional local life. These combine perfectly with the coastal town of Candidasa where great touring options include cycling and street food tours. Travelers to Indonesia also have a brand new ultra luxury retreat at the new Bawah Island – an exciting private island escape for the seriously wealthy in a remote corner of Indonesia that opened with just 35 eco luxe rooms.
A lesser known pre-Incan fortress in Northern Peru is just starting to attract foreign visitors. The site known as Kuelap is set in a pristine cloud forest where the mountains meet the Amazon rainforest. Rivaling Machu Picchu in size and grandeur, only 5% of visitors to Kuelap are foreign tourists. The round houses were built by the Chachapoyas civilization using millions of cubic feet of stone, and were estimated to have taken over 200 years to complete. A new direct flight from Cuzco to Trujillo, will reduce travel times for clients who wish to see the country’s key spots in one trip.
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SAFARI YOUR WAY SAFARIS
Great-value stays and self-drive options mean that there’s more variety than ever for exploring the wilds of South Africa, Tanzania and Botswana...
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SAFARIS
Follow the herd Having quenched their thirst at a waterhole, these elephant head for shelter AUDLEY TRAVELER | 25
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SAFARI Big attractions Branching out A leopard strolls (clockwise from this across the plains of image) Tree-climbing South Africa’s Krugerlion in Busanga Plains; National Park; (left) walking safari from a group of impala Musekese Bush sip tentatively at Camp; rainbow over a watering hole Victoria Falls
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afaris are on many people’s travel wish lists, and for good reason. Spotting Africa’s famous cast of wildlife up close is an incredibly exciting way to spend your days, and is an experience that will stay with you long after you’re back home. You may think that all safari experiences involve fully inclusive accommodation and guided game drives. However, there are plenty of great-value options that give you a chance to spot the Big Five while exploring at your own pace.
HAZYVIEW, SOUTH AFRICA By Anna Boughen In South Africa’s Lowveld town of Hazyview, just outside Kruger National Park, you can stay in a traditional guesthouse on a bed-and-breakfast basis and self-drive into the park, following a mix of wellmaintained paved and gravel roads. Undertaking a safari this way means you can enjoy full days of game viewing at your own pace and for a much lower cost than if you’d stayed within the park itself. Many of Kruger’s key species have been sighted by people visiting the park in this way, for example a picnic lunch beside a waterhole may give you close-up views of animals coming to drink. On my recent research trip I was lucky enough to spot lion, elephant and rhino as I drove between stops. Each picnic or rest camp area has a sightings board listing the most recently spotted wildlife species, and as you drive along you can share what you’ve seen with others following the same route. A self-drive safari is perfect for those who are used to striking out on their own and who like to set their own pace
for the day. But if you prefer to have a guide on hand, you can still opt for a great-value one-day game drive with a knowledgeable local guide. Before dawn breaks, you’ll be picked up from your guesthouse and driven into the park in an open-sided vehicle just as the sun rises. At this time you might encounter predators as they return from their night of hunting, and hear choruses of birds celebrating the start of a new day. You can also watch as the landscape is gradually illuminated by the strengthening glow of the sun. Spending time with a guide when visiting Kruger gives you the benefit of an extra pair of eyes, as well as their expertise when it comes to identifying wildlife – ideal if you can’t tell a cheetah from a leopard. Additionally, guides are tuned into the local ‘bush radio’, so in the event of a particularly exciting wildlife sighting elsewhere in the park, they can drive you straight to the heart of the action in no time at all.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Hazyview is accessed via a short domestic flight from Johannesburg, which is a 15 hour direct flight from New York. When to go: Visiting Kruger is enjoyable year round. Dry season (June to October) is best for general game viewing, especially around the waterholes, whereas birders should aim for the rainy season (November to March), which is also when many animals have their young. Get me there: A six-day tailor-made trip to South Africa, including two days in Hazyview and a guided safari, starts from $2,975pp. For more information, contact one of our South Africa specialists on 1-855-838-0550.
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SAFARIS
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SAFARI SELOUS GAME RESERVE, TANZANIA By Izzy Greaves Unbeknownst to many, in the south of Tanzania lies Africa’s largest game reserve. Due to the fact that it’s often overlooked and situated away from the well-worn tracks of the main safari trail, Selous Game Reserve is an ideal place to get away from the crowds, allowing for a truly authentic experience. The Rufiji River runs through the reserve, attracting hippo and vibrant birdlife, and with the varied landscapes comes a wide mix of wildlife. Despite the air of exclusivity here, the money that you spend on a safari in Selous goes much farther than it would if you were in northern Tanzania, because you’re able to take part in a range of activities not easily arranged in the north.
I highly recommend guided walking safaris as they allow you to appreciate the smaller aspects of the bush that you might not otherwise notice, from paw prints in the dirt to unusual insects and brightly plumed birds. The expert guides can tell you the finest details about the wildlife and where they slot into the local ecosystem. There’s also a chance that you’ll come across larger animals, making for some heart-stopping moments. Boat safaris are also a key activity here. Gliding along the river in the early morning light, you can watch closely as animals take their first drink of the day, spy crocodiles basking along the banks, and get within splashing distance of swimming hippo. Game drives are still popular here, with the reserve having the largest population of lions in Africa. But knowing that you can combine this with a jaunt along the river or
an in-depth exploration of the bush on foot adds another element to your safari.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Flight time is approximately 20 hours to Dar es Salaam from New York. From here, Selous is a scenic 45-minute light aircraft flight away. When to go: While high temperatures and humidity feature all year round, the dry season (July to October) is more likely to deliver clear sightings of the rich wildlife. Get me there: A 10-day tailor-made trip to Tanzania, including four nights in Selous and time on the beach in Zanzibar, starts from $4,420pp. For more information or to book, please contact one of our Tanzania specialists by calling 1-855-838-0545. Fishing trip A yellow-billed stork searches for food in a backwater of the Rufiji River, Selous Game Reserve
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Making a splash (clockwise from this) The Zambezi crashes over Victoria Falls; giraffe and zebra roam the riverbanks; elephant cross the Chobe River
KASANE & CHOBE NATIONAL PARK, BOTSWANA By Philippa Henley Botswana is perhaps most renowned for the beautiful Okavango Delta. However, I’d urge people not to overlook the country’s oldest national park, Chobe. Widely regarded as having one of the highest concentrations of wildlife in Africa, this is the place to see large game in huge numbers. Kasane is a town that borders Chobe National Park, and aside from boasting its newly refurbished international airport, there are a number of great-value accommodation options to choose from here. Chobe Safari Lodge was one of the first built in the area and has secured a prime location overlooking the Chobe River, giving you close-up views of elephant and buffalo coming to drink. There’s nothing quite like sipping a cocktail from the
comfort of your balcony while watching the setting sun cast silhouettes of the surrounding flora and fauna, the sky streaked burnt orange, pink and red. In terms of safari experiences, Chobe certainly doesn’t disappoint. Game drives are offered daily through the park itself. You also have the option of taking a boat cruise along the Chobe River, the water of which helps to sustain the tens of thousands of elephant that reside here – some of which you might see playing and bathing in the water just a short distance away. Local village tours, photographic safaris, scenic flights, and even a visit to nearby Kazungula’s Snake Park – home to around 17 species of snake – can all be easily arranged from Kasane. Combining your safari with time at Victoria Falls also works well, with Kasane being about two-and-a-half hours away by road. You can easily factor in a stay
on either the Zambian or Zimbabwean side, or visit on a day trip from Kasane.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: There are no direct flights to Botswana, but regular flights depart to Johannesburg from multiple cities in the US. From here, a connecting flight to Kasane takes under two hours. When to go: Chobe can be visited year round. The dry months (May to October) are best for game viewing, when wildlife congregate around water sources and vegetation is much lower. Birdwatching is best from late December to March. Get me there: A nine-day tailor-made trip to Botswana, including three nights in Chobe and a visit to Victoria Falls, starts from $4,665pp. For more information, contact one of our Botswana specialists on 1-855-838-0530. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 29
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HEAD TO HEAD
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Both offer some of the best wildlife viewing in the world –
he Brazilian Pantanal covers some 80,800 square miles, extending into Paraguay and Bolivia. The vast array of wildlife here live in the variety of rivers, forest and savannah. Most of the area floods for long periods, making it the largest tropical wetlands in the world. The opportunities for wildlife viewing are as close to ‘guaranteed’ as you can get. Argentina’s lesser-known Iberá Wetlands is less than 10% of the Pantanal’s size. However, that’s still 7,450 square miles: an expansive and rewarding area to explore. The wildlife can be a bit elusive, but its lack of worldwide fame means you can visit without seeing many other travelers. Which experience is for you?
THE PANTANAL
THE PANTANAL vs T
By Anna Barnard The Brazilian Pantanal. The name alone evokes images of toucans, parrots, caimans, tapirs, capybaras, monkeys, anteaters, anacondas and jaguars in the flooded plains of southern Brazil. But with such a massive area, where do you start? Roughly speaking, the region is split into two areas with entry points in the north at Cuiaba and the south at Campo Grande. These two gateways allow you to access lodges which can be within 30 minutes or up
to 5 hours from the airport. You may need to travel farther depending on the type of lodge or wildlife experience you’re looking for. My favorite Pantanal experience can be found at Araras Lodge, around two hours by road from Cuiaba. This rustic property is remote yet comfortable and even boasts a pool and hammocks. Not long after I arrived, I found myself in a canoe paddling through water lilies with regular sightings of caimans, storks and capybaras, and monkeys scrambling through the trees at the water’s edge. I was up early the next day and set out on horseback. Traveling by horse allows you to cover more distance and that means more wildlife (you can also go by 4x4 if you prefer). This was one of the best birdwatching days of my life: I saw everything from large rheas and jabiru storks to tiny red-crested cardinals, but it was the hyacinth macaws that made my day. I spotted several pairs of these intelligent birds searching for nuts and ripe fruits.
That evening, I enjoyed a cold drink on the deck at the lodge and, as the sun set in golds and oranges across the water, my mind turned to the wildlife we hadn’t seen. Jaguar sightings are rare here, so I wasn’t expecting those, but I did think that a giant anteater would have rounded things off nicely. I’d love to say that I was looking in the right direction when one was spotted the following morning… but all I saw was a tail vanishing into the undergrowth! I feel that it’s only fair to point out that none of Audley’s Brazil team can agree on the best part of the Pantanal. My colleague Fiona, for example, prefers the southern Pantanal, which, due to its cattle farms, has more of an estancia-type feel with many private reserves. These do have some advantages: lodges such as the Caiman Ecolodge operate vital conservation projects including a jaguar habituation program, meaning that big cat sightings are far more common. But one thing is for sure: wherever you choose to go in the Pantanal, you’ll be in one of the most biodiverse environments in the world. Get me there: A ten-day tailor-made trip including Rio de Janeiro, Iguaçu, the Pantanal and a three-night stay in the Amazon starts from $5,135pp. For more information, please call our Brazil specialists on 1-855-838-8610.
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HEAD TO HEAD
The river runs wild Should you get your wildlife thrills visiting the epic Pantanal (left) or the lesser-visited Iberá Wetlands (this)
THE IBERÁ WETLANDS
but which of these South American wonders will you choose? THE IBERÁ WETLANDS
By Melissa Dear If you’ve never heard of the Iberá Wetlands before, you’re not alone. Truth be told, I’d been to Argentina twice before I really appreciated the opportunity they presented. You’ll find them south of the Paraguayan border and, after you visit, you may start to wonder why not many people seem to know about them. For a start, these wetlands are home to around 30% of Argentina’s biodiversity: that equates to some 4,000 species, including toucans, jabiru storks, caimans, peccaries, jaguars and even maned wolves. While I’d done my research for my first visit to the wetlands, nothing could really prepare me for being raucously greeted by a family of howler monkeys who had
taken up residence in a tree outside my room. Not a bad start to the trip. Putting the wildlife to one side for a moment, one of the real joys of the wetlands is its accessibility. I stayed at the impeccable Estancia Puerto Valle and could not have been made to feel more comfortable. Getting there was a breeze, too: within an hour of disembarking my one-anda-half-hour flight from Buenos Aires to Posadas, I’d checked in and was enjoying a cold glass of wine on the banks of the Parana River. The next day I met all the guides who would take me out on a nearby lagoon, kayaking on a river, trekking in search of monkeys, and horse riding. The days out exploring were busy but, despite the scrumptious food at the lodge and the wild sunsets, I never wanted them to end.
First, my guide and I headed to a pier, where we encountered a huge colony of capybaras before getting out onto the water. As my guide expertly punted the boat along in near silence, the wildlife calmly revealed itself: everything from endemic caiman species to marsh and pampa deer. My guide even pointed out the best angles for photos. I freely admit I am no birder, but I was also soon spotting and naming a whole range of avifauna. The streamer-tailed tyrant fast became my favorite. Getting on a horse is almost obligatory in this part of Argentina, especially when you’re staying on an estancia: not only is it part of the culture, it’s also a fulfilling way to explore the landscape and wildlife. The ride exposed me to more of the 360 bird species found in the wetlands, and also gave me a feel for the history of the place and its way of life. Despite being somewhere I previously had very little knowledge of, I can truly say that the Iberá Wetlands gave me the wildlife experience of my life – and all in the comfort of an excellent small hotel. Get me there: An 11-day tailor-made trip to Argentina including Iguazu, Buenos Aires, Peninsula Valdes and the Iberá Wetlands starts from $5,245pp. For more information, please call one of our Argentina specialists on 1-855-838-8630. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 31
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Walking on water Glenelg Beach jetty stretches into the Saint Vincent Gulf outside Adelaide
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SEARCHING FOR
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Cosmopolitan cities, manicured vineyards and wildlife-packed Kangaroo Island... Australia’s south boasts a haul of diverse wonders
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AUSTRALIA
“At the mercy of the roiling Southern and Indian oceans and covered in mallee scrub, eucalypt forests and unpaved dirt roads, Kangaroo Island is a land untamed.”
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outh Australia has so much to offer, and yet it’s often neglected by first-time visitors to the country. Here, our specialists speak in detail about three key South Australian areas: the cosmopolitan city of Adelaide, the natural wildlife haven of Kangaroo Island, and the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale winelands. What’s really satisfying is that all these places are clustered together, meaning that you can experience the variety this vast territory has to offer in one trip.
GET TO KNOW ADELAIDE By Simon Massey My first impressions of Adelaide q weren’t promising: when I first visited in 1999, the airport was practically a shed. Now, the flagship city of South Australia has all the charm and verve to rival Sydney, Melbourne or Perth. The innovative, modern food scene is garnering awards, while it’s still beloved for its august heritage buildings as well as the suburban beaches that line the nearby Saint Vincent Gulf. Yet the city has its own distinct personality, too. Physically, Adelaide’s all about open space. The whole city was designed to be surrounded by parkland: you’ll find few high rises here. Adding to this feeling of openness, you can reach the best beaches via a pleasant flat cycle path
that runs along the Torrens River and onto the coast. You can take a tram to the beach of Glenelg, but a half-hour’s cycle takes you to Henley, a slice of spotless, honeyed sand where 20 visitors or more counts as ‘busy’. In Henley Square, set back from the beach, you’ll find good restaurants and bars, fountains for children to splash in and in the evenings a light show. Visit at sunset and watch it from Henley’s wooden jetty: since all the beaches face west, it’s quite a spectacle, washing the sky in crimson and tangerine. When it comes to dining, most visitors head for buzzy Rundle Street. However, it doesn’t have a monopoly on the best food and drink. Along Pirie Street, Gilbert Street and in the Central Market area, you’ll find independent coffee chains, cheesemakers, trattoria-style places, dim sum (known locally as ‘yum cha’) restaurants and craft beer bars. Gilles Street Market (held every second Sunday of the month) in the southeastern corner of the city has many pop-up places, and if you want to get off the beaten track, head north to the Adelaide Hills. Here the town of Hahndorf – originally settled by Lutheran migrants in the 19th century – dishes up hearty bratwurst, schnitzel and Bavarian beers. For me, no trip to the city is complete without a peek at the Adelaide Oval. It was given a glossy makeover in 2014, but it has still kept that traditional
cricket club feel. The Moreton Bay fig trees, heritage-listed scoreboard and the Hill (where England’s Barmy Army set up camp) have been lovingly preserved, but the ground now boasts features such as a double-tiered riverbank stand. Cricket fans can climb to its roof, or even watch games from up top.
COUNT WILDLIFE ON KANGAROO ISLAND By Holly Wilson Set 70 miles off the Adelaide coast at the mercy of the roiling Southern and Indian oceans, covered in mallee scrub, eucalypt forests and unpaved dirt roads, Kangaroo Island w is a land untamed. Its isolation has helped protect its wildlife, including the marsupials whom explorer Matthew Flinders named the island after in 1802 (they saved his crew from starvation). Nowadays, thankfully, visitors watch the island’s kangaroos rather than eat them. They’re more muscular than their mainland cousins, with black tips on their paws and ears. Koalas, too, steal some of the limelight, if you know where to look (they only eat a certain type of eucalypt gum), while polka-dot-and-striped goannas haunt the underbrush. Sea lions and fur seals crowd some of the island’s blustery beaches: habituated to human presence while still completely wild, they hardly bat an eye as you walk past.
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a. The German-influenced village of Hahndorf, Adelaide Hills b. Lighthouse of Cape Willoughby, Kangaroo Island c. A pelican overlooking one of Adelaide’s many sandy beaches d. A sculpture of legendary Australian cricketer Don Bradman e. Sunset over Glenelg jetty in Adelaide f. A koala and baby resting on a eucalyptus tree g. A food market in Adelaide h. A hiker looks up to the wind-eroded granite of the ‘Remarkable Rocks’ in Flinders Chase National Park i. Punters relaxing in a cafe in Hahndorf
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AUSTRALIA 0
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migrants in 1842. Their legacy is palpable, from the bakery that 0 161 kilometres serves German breads and pastries to nearby wineries like Tscharke’s. It’s built in an authentic German SOUTH AUSTRALIA timber style, partly inspired by 3 owner Eva (a German expatriate). Barossa German heritage also shines in its Valley NEW SOUTH craft breweries: call in at Barossa WALES Valley Brewing and swap wine for 1 Adelaide a pint in their outdoor biergarten, which often has live music. 4 ra McLaren yR If you want to head off the beaten Vale ive r track, head south of Adelaide to 2 McLaren Vale r. Closer to the Kangaroo Island coast, it has good beaches and a refreshing breeze in the air makes VICTORIA for more consistent wines. Many of its wineries are boutiques, while Robe others are larger-scale, such as the y le Grampians Val Yarra National joyfully eccentric Molly Dooker’s Park Melbourne Great (the name means ‘left-handed’ in Australian Australian parlance). Port Bight Fairy As some of the McLaren Vale wineries are less well known Apollo Bay internationally, I suggest taking part in a private tasting tour. The guided wildlife tours are I enjoyed the wine so much at with deserted beaches, shrubexcellent on KI (as locals call it), SC Pannell I ended up shipping shrouded limestone clifftops, a b c easily some of the best I’ve ever a crate of it home, but d’Arenberg’s solitary lighthouses and the d e f joined. As well as showing you the stole my heart. This family-owned weathered granite boulders named big hitters, guides will happily help winery has a great restaurant the ‘Remarkable Rocks’, their sides g h i you find more elusive fauna. situated on a veranda overlooking splashed with bright orange lichens. I wanted to see an echidna. the vines (if you go, order the a. Seals at Seal Bay, RAISE A GLASS TO THE A monotreme (egg-laying lobster bisque). They also offer Kangaroo Island WINELANDS mammal), they have a long, thin winemaking workshops, giving b. Wine tasting in the By Matt Malkin snout, looking like a European you the chance to make your own Barossa Valley 0 miles c. A short-beaked echidna An hour’s drive hedgehog that’s 100 gorged on protein blend. After an afternoon of resting in Flinders Chase 0 kilometres northeast of Adelaide powder. ‘They’re161very rare, you playing with measurements, National Park d. Cabernet grapes in the brings you to the know,’ said my guide. Moments pipettes and beakers, I felt like Barossa Valley vineyards Barossa Valley e, later, he heard a scuffling in the I was back in a school chemistry e. Kangaroos on their an impressive expanse of lowgrasses, and called me closer. lesson. Only this lesson ended namesake island f. Grape harvesting in the lying, gently undulating hills A spiky clump hovered into view, with a glass of fine red. Barossa Valley threaded with rows of vineyards. I sniffing out its latest meal. g. The Hanson Bay TRAVEL ESSENTIALS There’s more to this place than its visited in the austral spring: the coastline, Kangaroo Island h. A German-influenced Flight information: vines weren’t quite at their height wildlife. Cottage industries, sign for a vineyard in the Flight time is approximately of summer lushness, but the area including gin distilleries, honeyBarossa Valley 16 hours to Adelaide from was wonderfully fresh. Despite making (Ligurian bees thrive here) i. The vineyards of the Barossa Valley Los Angeles. its proximity to the city, the and oyster farms are helping KI When to go: South Australia Barossa is a place where you make a name for itself on the is a year-round destination, can relax, lulled by the peace artisan food and drink scene. however the weather is most and quiet (and maybe the effects I’ve met islanders who hardly pleasant between September of a good vintage or two). ever venture to the mainland, and May. You can while away a pleasant a sentiment that’s less Get me there: An 11-day couple of days visiting the cellar parochialism, more an intense tailor-made trip to South doors of a few wineries, sampling pride in their home. Visitors are Australia on a self-drive basis the local specialities of grenache warmly welcomed: it’s common to starts from $4,845pp. For more see people waving at cars that come and shiraz, and soaking up the information, please contact languid pace of life. I like the past (they’re still a rarity here). our Australia specialists on German influences of Lyndoch, There’s also the landscape itself. 1-844-250-3450. which was founded by Lutheran It’s wind-beaten, unspoiled, raw Broken Hill
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Our specialists’ latest dispatches from Vietnam, Sri Lanka, Jordan and Scotland
TONKINESE ALPS, VIETNAM By Jack Tydman “New road infrastructure has made the journey from Hanoi into Northern Vietnam’s breathtaking Tonkinese Alps more accessible. Upon arrival I stayed at Topas Eco-Lodge, which sits on top of a hill overlooking some of the most scenic rice terraces in the country, a great base for trekking to the surrounding villages before ending the day at their stunning infinity pool.”
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GET INSPIRED
UDA WALAWE NATIONAL PARK, SRI LANKA By Stephanie Buckland “I took a game drive through the plains of Uda Walawe National Park and saw crocodiles, water buffalo, peacocks, and elephants gathered around the reservoir. I then visited the nearby Elephant Transit Center where orphaned elephants are looked after until old enough to be released back into the wild.”
MOUNT NEBO, JORDAN By Talia Mazepa “In Jordan, even a simple drive from one location to the next is part of the adventure because you continuously stumble across ancient ruins, dramatic gorges and historic ground. Here, I’m looking out from Mount Nebo, the rumoured burial place for Moses. It’s said that he first saw Jerusalem from here after spending 40 years in the desert.”
EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND By Victoria Schennum “I fell in love with Edinburgh from the moment I climbed craggy Arthur’s Seat – located in the heart of the city, this dormant volcano offers sweeping views of the turreted skyline stretching out to the nearby rocky hilltops and sea. My love affair with Edinburgh continued as I visited the lively Stockbridge Market, strolled the Royal Mile and tested the booming culinary scene.”
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Electric city The streets of Shinjuku come alive at night
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48 Hours in...
TOKYO
From Buddhist shrines to neon pop-culture, Tokyo can be an assault on the senses. Our specialist helps you take in both the modern and the ancient, and fuel up on cuisine in between. WORDS BY AMANDA MACKENZIE
DAY 1 6AM
melon pan at Kagetsu-do. The sweet bun is covered in an irresistibly crunchy coating.
10AM Jet lag lends itself well to early mornings – take advantage and head to Tsukiji Fish Market q. Explore the outer market, which is open to the public, and then settle in for a freshly made sushi breakfast.
8AM Head to the historic district of Asakusa before the crowds. Tokyo’s famous Sensoji Temple w, allegedly built in 645 by two fishermen on the site where they found a golden Buddha, is surrounded by a complex of halls and gardens. After visiting the main building, stop at the hidden shopping arcades just beyond the temple grounds, and order a freshly-made
Visit the Tokyo Skytree e. The tallest structure in Japan stretches about 2,000 feet high and is home to restaurants, an observation deck and shops. Particularly worth a visit is Ameshin, a candy store that specializes in the traditional art of amezaiku. Watch the staff as they cut, pull and bend the sweet confections into animal- and flower-shaped sculptures.
SPECIALISTS’ TOP TIPS
1PM Board a water bus from Asakusa to the futuristic district of Odaiba r (pictured left), home to some of the most cutting-edge technology in Japan. Start with an alfresco lunch along the boardwalk before checking out the Panasonic Center and the Miraikan for an in-depth look at Japan’s coolest robots.
5PM Follow the crowds of salarymen (Japanese term for office workers) as they head for dinner in Yurakucho t. Tiny restaurants have sprung up under the elevated train tracks of the Yamanote Line. This is as authentic as it gets; many of these restaurants will not have English menus, but the food is some of the best you’ll have anywhere in Tokyo if you’re willing to try.
Order a pocket Wifi device to be delivered to your hotel. Free Wifi isn’t as widely available as you’d think and Google Maps is an invaluable resource while you’re out exploring! Robert Heard Public trash receptacles are rare in Japan. Be prepared to carry your trash with you until you can dispose of it properly. Tesia Smith Japan is still a cash-based society. Make sure you have enough yen on hand to cover food and shopping expenses in case the vendor doesn’t accept cards! Caitlin Frost AUDLEY TRAVELER | 41
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Culture clash (clockwise from this image) Tokyo’s mix of old and new can be seen in the Asakusa Kannon; Tsukiji Market; street stalls in Asakusa; and the skyscrapers overlooking the Imperial Palace East Gardens
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TOKYO
DAY 2 8AM Enjoy breakfast at the Palace Hotel y. Conveniently located across the street from the Imperial Palace, it offers fantastic views of the gardens as well as the modern Wadakura Fountain Park next door.
10AM It’s time to traverse Shibuya’s famous ‘scramble crossing’ – the Tokyo landmark where more than a thousand pedestrians surge past each other seamlessly at each change of the light. For the best aerial view, skip Starbucks and head to the Shibuya Mark City complex u instead. The trendy district of Harajuku (pictured right) is mere minutes away and you can explore the stores up and down Takeshita Street filled with the latest in Japanese street fashion. Change up the pace with an early-afternoon stroll through the Meiji Shrine i and its surrounding forest. The trees and structure were donated from around Japan in 1920 to honor Emperor Meiji and his wife.
2PM
5PM
Make your way to the Isetan store o in Shinjuku Sanchōme for lunch. Depachika is the colloquial term for the food metropolis found on the basement floor of major department stores in Japan. They offer a tantalizing array of fresh local foods and gourmet items imported from all corners of Japan and the world. Take your lunch up to Isetan’s roof deck to enjoy the green space hidden among Tokyo’s concrete jungle.
No trip to Japan is complete without a night of karaoke. Karaoke parlors are as commonplace as convenience stores and you can rent a private room by the hour.
8PM When you finish singing your heart out, head to the Park Hyatt a in Shinjuku for dinner at the New York Bar & Grill to relive scenes from the film Lost in Translation.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: 14 hours direct from New York City. Direct flights are also available from Boston, Atlanta, Chicago, and major cities on the West Coast. When to go: March through mid-May and September to December. May is sunny and warm (perfect for long days of walking and exploring hidden neighborhoods) and December’s mild temperatures are accompanied by festive holiday illumination displays as far as the eye can see. Get me there: An 11-day tailor-made tour of Japan, including time in Tokyo, starts from $4,995pp. For more information, contact our Japan specialists on 855-787-3971. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 43
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TRAVELERS’TALES SHARE YOUR STORIES AT WWW.AUDLEYTRAVEL.COM/US/SHARE
The tip of the travel iceberg? Getting up close to Patagonia’s ice fields
PATAGONIA
Mary Drury & Richard Dibling traveled to Chile & Argentina with Audley
P
anoramic photos of Torres del Paine on a calendar were what inspired our trip to Patagonia, and we were not disappointed. We started our journey with two nights in Santiago. We found plenty to explore in the one-and-a-half days we had there and were delighted with our boutique hotel, Le Reve – a lovely green oasis of calm in a very busy city. The first day we visited the house and museum of poet Pablo Neruda. On the second we joined a walking tour with a very knowledgeable guide. From here we flew to Puerto Montt and were then escorted to our hotel, Casa
Molino, by Isabel, our guide, and our driver, Manuel. Our room had views through the floor-to-ceiling picture window overlooking Lake Llanquihue and the Osorno Volcano. We spent four nights here, and each day we were taken on a wonderful excursion. Isabel was a delight – full of local stories and a wide knowledge of the local flora and fauna. On the first day we walked in the Alerce Andino National Park rainforest, stopping to watch the birds and enjoy our picnic. On the second day we visited the Vicente Perez National Park and saw the beautiful Petrohue Falls and then hiked through the forest to the Green Lagoon and on up the
slope of Osorno. Our last day was spent on a day-long trip to Chiloe Island – the land of the seals – where we stopped off to visit some of its ornate and beautiful wooden churches and the famous palafito homes built on stilts over the sea. We had a delicious seafood meal one evening overlooking the lake, and on another occasion we had the best steak of our whole trip – together with a surprise birthday cake, as Isabel had tipped off the manager that it was Richard’s birthday. On our final day we said our goodbyes and were driven back to the airport for our flight south to Punta Arenas. Here we were driven
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TRAVELERS’ TALES
to Patagonia Camp deep in the Torres del Paine National Park – the highlight of our trip. We stayed in luxurious yurts dotted among the trees and overlooking the lake and the twin peaks of Torres del Paine. The central point was a well-appointed lounge/ dining room/meeting room, and here we met in the evenings for wonderful cocktails and enjoyed delicious three-course meals – nothing was too much trouble. The scenery changed all the time with the weather and we were never short of photo opportunities – hopefully we managed to take some shots worthy of a calendar! A lamb barbecue was held on at least two evenings and this was a great opportunity for travelers to swap stories. We stayed here for five nights in total and met people of all nationalities and made some lasting friends, too.
INSPIRATIONAL ICE
From Patagonia Camp we were transported by road across the border into Argentina to El Calafate. Here we were based in the Design Suites overlooking the piercingly blue Lago Argentina. The main purpose of this part of the trip was a visit to the Perito Moreno glacier – and it didn’t disappoint. Who’d have thought you could spend nearly two hours looking at ice? It was
dramatic, too, as great chunks of ice were regularly falling off. It’s 230 feet high and, after a boat trip to take you close to its face, you’re left with plenty of time to wander along the raised walkways to view the glacier from all different points. The weather was a mix of sunshine and clouds, making for some very dramatic photos. Buenos Aires was a great way to end the trip – huge and very varied. As we had a limited amount of time here, we picked out one or two things to do each day, but you could spend a lot longer here. We walked in the parks, visited bustling indoor markets and wandered by chance into the (free) Museo del Bicentenario. This is built in a space once occupied by the city’s fort and later by its
customs office. Exhibits trace Argentina’s history since its first cry for independence, with plenty of bilingual guides to help you out. We also discovered an excellent (free) railway museum with a guide who was keen to help us get the most out of our visit. Our final evening here was the best way to end our trip: the Argentine Experience. The evening was a light-hearted mix of fun and food. First, there was a quiz, then a lesson in cocktail making with plenty of drinking as well. This was followed by a lesson in making empanadas and a little competition for the best design – which somehow I managed to win! Finally, there was a delicious three-course meal with as much wine as you wanted. The two girls who hosted the event were worth their weight in gold. They made the whole evening fun but still informative, and during the meal we chatted to our fellow participants, all of them at different stages of their own trips. It was a memorable evening before we tumbled into a taxi back to our hotel ready for our flight home the next day. This was a beautifully organized and varied trip, and we picked up lots of tips on our way from fellow travelers. You just can’t see everything in one trip, and I’m sure we’ll be back to explore more of this fascinating continent.
Color shifts The shifting tones of Patagonia offer some tantalizing photographic opportunities
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Super spots The Hollidays were delighted to – eventually – catch sight of a leopard
VICTORIA FALLS & BOTSWANA
Simon & Sarah Holliday visited Victoria Falls & Botswana with Audley
W
e recently returned from our safari honeymoon in Botswana. Our first stop was Victoria Falls on the ZambiaZimbabwe border. Here, we stayed at the Ilala Lodge, a beautiful hotel with traditional African decor and rolling gardens where we were able to watch the spray from the falls rising majestically on the horizon. We got our first glimpses of wildlife that evening, as we enjoyed a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River where an elephant splashed about on the riverbank and a pod of hippo basked. We woke up early the next day and set off on a short walk to the area’s pièce de résistance. Upon arriving at the falls’ entrance we politely refused the friendly offers of local traders selling ponchos, instead
choosing to march on in our shorts and t-shirts, camera at the ready. As we wandered along the paths of the surrounding Victoria Falls National Park, we were soon greeted by the tremendous roar of the ‘Smoke that Thunders’. Its sheer power was breathtaking. Having been drenched from head to toe with spray from the world’s largest sheet of falling water, we couldn’t help but think that perhaps those ponchos may well have been a good idea! The grins on the faces of the locals as we headed back to the hotel said it all.
TRACKING IN CHOBE
Later that morning we traveled by road through Zambezi National Park and on to Chobe National Park in Botswana. Chobe
Elephant Camp was to be our base for the next few days. The lodge has a truly spectacular setting, perched on a ridge above the Chobe River. The views and sunsets over the surrounding landscape are stunning. As soon as we arrived, we were whisked out on a game drive with our knowledgeable guide, Mike. We were soon lucky enough to get close to a very large herd of buffalo, already closely watched by a male lion. But we saw so many different species in Chobe; ‘Giraffe Valley’, as Mike described it, took us to within a few feet of perhaps 30 giraffe that were licking the soil for vital minerals. We also regularly spotted large herds of elephant, hippo, crocodiles, impala, kudu, zebra, warthog, jackal, and on one evening, a pride of lion feeding on a kill at a small watering hole.
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TRAVELERS’ TALES
Safari sights (clockwise from this image) Rare wild dog, the Victoria Falls and giraffe all featured on the Hollidays’ trip – with a little help from their guides
We did have one unexpected encounter with an animal while having a picnic lunch in the middle of the bush. One of the local vervet monkeys must have had a taste for French cheese, tucking a block of our Camembert under his arm. He found a branch in full view of his startled audience below before sampling his stolen goods… all he was missing was a glass of Bordeaux red! On our final game drive, Mike tracked down the rare African wild dog. It felt as though we were part of the pack as we sped along the dusty track behind the dog, which had brought down an impala. It was fascinating to see them working together to make a kill, then delivering a rallying call to alert others to their prize. And thanks to Mike, we had front row seats.
CANOEING THE DELTA
The next leg of our journey involved a short flight into the Okavango Delta – a vast, flat, swampy region that floods annually following the rains in the Angola highlands. We felt immersed in the wilderness as our 4x4 crept around each corner searching for the delta’s renowned predators. Sango Safari Camp was our chosen lodge – a wonderful tented camp set on the bank of the Khwai River on the edge of Moremi Game Reserve. At night we could hear hippo and elephant splashing right outside our tent, and taking an outdoor shower beneath the stars was a truly memorable experience. We also spent an afternoon paddling along the river in a mokoro (a traditional canoe). This was
a tranquil experience that allowed us to take in the delta from a different perspective. Thanks to our excellent guide, Frank, we were able to get close to a wonderful array of animals, including spotted hyena, a huge bull elephant and a lioness guiding her four tiny cubs through marshy wetland. But our most exhilarating moment came in the last ten minutes of our final game drive. Frank had been on the lookout for a leopard throughout our stay, and after following tracks and listening to the warning calls of impala for over an hour, the moment finally arrived: a leopard slipped out of the tall grass and headed straight towards our truck. Witnessing this was a moment we’ll treasure for the rest of our lives, and the icing on the cake to a perfect honeymoon in Botswana. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 47
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Q&A
ASK THE EXPERTS...
THAILAND
Visiting elephants responsibly, beach relaxation and culinary treats: our specialists explain how to get the most out of your trip to Thailand THAILAND SPECIALISTS
Q
We want to see elephants but don’t like the idea of sanctuaries, what can you recommend? We’re proud of our approach to responsible tourism and are excited to start offering visits to Kui Buri National Park, which provides an opportunity to see elephants in the wild. I was lucky enough to visit the National Park on a recent trip and managed to view a herd of wild elephants roaming across the grasslands: it was unforgettable. A visit also provides an insight into the history of conflict between people and elephants. Local farmers have had to develop ways to protect their crops from curious elephants without harming them. You can spend the night in a welcoming local homestay to learn more. AP
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Alex Putnam
Blair Peterson
Q A
Jack Tydeman
Which island is best for relaxing on the beach in the summer? Koh Phangan is a relatively undeveloped island covered in jungle. While full moon parties attract lively crowds, these only occur on a small area in the southeast around Haad Rin. Stay on the north coast and you’ll remain blissfully unaware. Either luxuriate in the Anantara Rasananda or enjoy great value at the more rustic Buri Rasa Village. Nearby there’s a local Thai village where you can dine out along one of the best sand beaches in the region. Easily reached from
Koh Samui or Surat Thani, this fits well if you’re looking to add some downtime to the end of a longer trip. BP
Q A
What can you suggest for a food enthusiast? You’re spoiled when it comes to choices in Thailand. I recommend a street food tour of Bangkok as an ideal introduction to a broad range of Thai delicacies. The tour starts in the morning when the markets are at their freshest and the temperature is more comfortable for walking. Your food guide will take you on a journey through one of the oldest parts of the city, where traditional life continues in the shadows of skyscrapers. Along the way you’ll try classic Thai curries and grilled meats as well as more unusual dishes – teen ghai toon (braised chicken feet) is a particularly fragrant dish. JT
Q
We’ve been to Chiang Mai before, where else can you recommend in northern Thailand? There’s an interesting range of rural destinations across the north, but my favorite route is to the northwest of Chiang Mai. Here, you can take in the charming town of Pai before journeying on to sleepy Mae Hong Son, close to the Burmese border. The roads follow a dramatic series of hairpin bends to
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traverse steep forested valleys (so best avoided if you suffer from car sickness), passing waterfalls and hot springs along the way. It’s possible to fly from Pai back to Chiang Mai to avoid having to return the same way. There are trekking options for a range of fitness levels, with forested caves and border-town tribes to visit along the way. For more adventure, there are also some challenging bike trails running across the hillsides. Avoid the region in March and April when the annual burning of crops can impact flights and spoil views. AP
Q A
Where should I visit to learn about Thailand’s history? The Kingdom of Thailand has had three capitals in its tumultuous history. The current capital, Bangkok, is the hub that every traveler passes through. Many also choose to visit Ayutthaya, to the north, because it is easily accessible from Bangkok. I recommend going further north, to Thailand’s original capital, Sukhothai. Here you can explore ancient ruins on foot or by bicycle, enjoying the serenity of a small hotel and relatively few visitors. This combines well with Chiang Mai and can be reached by train or flight from Bangkok. As is often the case, the extra travel puts most people off but is well worth it. BP
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In the frame Thai Monks at Phanom Rung
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#TheAudleyWay We love receiving your live updates on Twitter and Instagram. If you’re not on your travels, you can also get involved by sharing themed images from any of your Audley trips (details below). Just write #TheAudleyWay on your posts and we’ll feature our favorites in the next edition. Not on social media? Head to www.audleytravel.com/us/social to upload your images directly and to see the latest posts from Audley travelers around the world. Lindy Crocombe Meeting the locals, Antarctica
Chrissie Holford Superman-style zip line, Costa Rica
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@thedulaig Japanese breakfast, Takayama, Japan
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@marinalai Thornybush Game Reserve, South Africa
@alicalicali Hoi An, Vietnam
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The spring 2018 Audley Traveler theme is… natural patterns. Whether it’s speckled birds, landscapes, underwater ecosystems or unusual ice formations, we want to see your photographs that showcase the natural patterns you’ve witnessed on your travels. To take part write #AudleyMagazine and @AudleyTravel on your Instagram or Twitter post. Alternatively, you can post directly to our Facebook wall or upload your image to www.audleytravel.com/us/social
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FIND OUT MORE... To request a brochure please visit: www.audleytravel.com/us/brochures or call 1-855-838-8300
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