WINTER 2020
BEHIND THE SCENES IN SOUTH AFRICA’S SABI SANDS
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CONTENTS 4 First sight
22Arctic & Antarctica
plantations, discover which of the Indian Ocean island’s fabled coastlines are for you.
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Visiting wineries and watching birds: our guide to a fine weekend in the Art Deco city.
Spectacular photos captured by our specialists: looking out over Capri’s rocky coast in Italy and pottering away in India.
Escape routes
Travel updates: celebrating new trips, finding Ireland’s wildest landscapes and navigating roads in Florence, Italy.
14 Thailand
From everyday life in Bangkok to spying elephants in Chiang Mai, our experts reveal their top five Thai experiences.
6: 20Top Drinks with a view
We take you over Shanghai’s skyline, across lantern-lit lakes and under the sea to show you our favorite watering holes. 2 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
Adventurer Greg Mortimer takes us to the poles, sharing his top wildlife spots.
Greece vs Croatia
Thousands of rugged islands are scattered along these country’s glittering coastlines – but which will tempt you?
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South Africa safari
We go behind the scenes of a wildlife reserve and find ‘Big Five’ spots aplenty.
36Just back from…
Updates from Hawaii, Iceland, Mexico and Egypt.
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Sri Lanka
From palm-fringed beaches to visiting whale pods and fragrant tea
4048 hours in… Napier, NZ 46Your stories
Painting in Antarctica and Oman plus traversing Vietnam – as told by readers.
49Interview: Ómar Sigurðsson
Expect snow and steam baths galore as the Icelandic guide shares his country’s charms.
50Q&A: Peru
How to plan for a Peruvian adventure from hiking the Andes to exploring the Amazon – without following the crowds.
WELCOME
Dear Traveler
The start of the year is when I’m often clamoring for new horizons. Nothing scratches that itch quite like an expedition cruise, which can take you through sea ice to the far reaches of the Antarctic, or past a roaming polar bear in the Arctic. Get inspired by our interview with polar explorer Greg Mortimer on page 22. Or for something a little closer to home, I’m happy to say that Croatia is now part of our Europe offerings. The country’s 1,200 islands offer sun-drenched pleasures, rare wines and historic cities. On page 28, we compare these Adriatic islands to those in Greece. We’ve also hunted down new experiences in an old favorite, Thailand. Our specialists have crafted their ideal journey, which takes in the true essence of the country – think wild elephants, culinary delicacies and the opportunity to dip onto the cultural side of Thailand’s coastal communities. And finally, on page 30, you can gain a fresh insight into the African safari experience. Specialist Amelia shares her thoughts from her recent sabbatical working at a lodge in South Africa, including how to make the most of your safari. I hope you enjoy this issue.
Jacqui Lewis Managing Director
77 N Washington St, 6th Floor, Boston, MA 02114 Telephone: 1-855-639-7245 Website: www.audleytravel.com The vacations featured in this magazine are suggestions only and will be customized to fit your travel dates and preferences. All prices quoted are exclusive of international flights and subject to change. Designed by Wanderlust Travel Media. CST#2117258-40 | Fla. Seller of Travel Ref. No. ST39468.
Contributors Emily Summer New Zealand specialist Emily’s love of wildlife greatly inspires her travels. While travelling extensively around New Zealand, she was lucky enough to spot orca and humpback whales. Favorite airport? Singapore Changi Airport. Where else in the world can you see a 40m indoor waterfall? Stefany Jevtic Croatia specialist Growing up, Stefany would return to her parents’ native Serbia twice a year and visit the surrounding countries. Read more about her love of Croatia’s islands on page 29. Favorite airport? Toronto Pearson. I’ve never had a bad experience there. Amelia Henderson Safari specialist After visiting family in South Africa, Amelia quickly became a safari addict and returns regularly. Favorite airport? Kruger Mpumalanga has a thatched roof and warthog regularly run across the tarmac, so you know you’re on safari.
Images supplied by Audley travelers, staff and suppliers, Alamy, AWL, iStockphoto, Getty Images, Dreamstime, Shutterstock and BBC Music.
FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA FOR DAILY TRAVEL INSPIRATION Tag @AudleyTravel and #TheAudleyWay to share your travel photos with us.
W I N T E R 2020
BEHIND THE SCENES IN SOUTH AFRICA’S SABI SANDS OFC_USA_mwv4.indd 3
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THINGS we’ve learned this issue
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In Iceland, you can see waterfalls, hot springs, volcanoes, glaciers and lava fields all in the same day. (p49) Sabi Sands may be well-known for the Big Five, but it’s also a prime location to see wild dog – a species that’s difficult to spot elsewhere due to their dwindling numbers and wide range of movement. (p30) As you cruise near the North Pole, you might see tree trunks that have floated from rivers in Siberia, sticking up from the ice. (p22) A pa is the name of a Maori hill fort or defensive settlement, usually built to defend fertile land or store food. You can still see their earth ramparts across New Zealand. (p40)
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On the cover Cheetah in Sabi Sands Game Reserve, South Africa. Go behind the scenes at a safari lodge on page 30. For more information, call our South Africa specialists on 1-855-655-7245 or request a copy of our Africa Safari brochure at www.audleytravel.com/us/brochures
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AUDLEY TRAVELER | 3
FIRST SIGHT
POTTER IN RAJASTHAN, INDIA By Alex Johnson, HR team member ’This picture was taken while I was staying in Rohet Garh, a family-owned heritage hotel on the edge of Rohet village. You’re free to walk around and rub shoulders with the villagers as they go about their business. I watched this man at work and asked if I could take his picture. He was completely absorbed in throwing a pot, and I tried to capture this moment with minimal blur caused by the fast-spinning wheel. I like the brightness of his blue shirt against the dun background: the same pigment is used to paint houses in the village, and famously in nearby Jodhpur.’
THE AUGUSTUS GARDENS, ITALY By Laura Plansky, Italy & Greece specialist “Founded by the eponymous emperor, the Augustus Gardens are a series of flowered terraces that offer some of the best views on Capri – an impressive boast on an island known for its panoramas. Even the path to the garden is visually impressive. Known as the Via Krupp, these switchbacks link Marina Piccolo to the gardens. The terraces and the path both look out over the rocky coast, the green island and the Faraglioni rocks, a trio of three limestone stacks rising out of the bright blue Mediterranean.”
FIRST SIGHT
ESCAPE ROUTES
TRAVEL NEWS | FLIGHT DECK | RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | CHECK IN
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WHAT’S NEW
Introducing Iceland & Croatia We’re thrilled to announce that we’ve expanded our European portfolio. We’ve added both Croatia, with its complicated history, wine, and sunny islands, as well as Iceland, where you can see volcanoes, glaciers, and otherworldly landscapes. You might sample rare (and hard-to-pronounce) wines on Hvar, go kayaking on the crystal-blue Adriatic off Split, or take a tour of Dubrovnik with someone who worked on Game of Thrones. In Iceland, you can snorkel between two tectonic plates, sample ‘Viking sushi’ just hauled from the North Atlantic, or even get lowered into the heart of a volcano. For more information, please contact our Croatia specialists on 1-855-558-8530 or our Iceland specialists on 1-855-505-0475.
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ESCAPE ROUTES
Where to go in… 3 MONTHS
CROATIA
FLIGHT DECK The latest flight news
Beginning on December 22nd 2019, Delta has launched a service connecting New York (JFK) with Mumbai, India. Delta is operating the route with a newly renovated Boeing 777-200LR. This aircraft features several seating options including the Delta One Suite, Premium Select, Delta Comfort+, and Main Cabin. American Airlines has announced its first ever destination in AfricaCasablanca in Morocco. The carrier will operate seasonal service from Philadelphia beginning in June 2020. Qantas will begin flying to Brisbane from both Chicago and San Francisco in April 2020. This news comes after Qantas received US approval for a joint venture with American Airlines. The Chicago-Brisbane route will be the world’s fourth longest flight at a distance of 8,916 miles each way.
With warm, mild weather and sunny skies, visitors can enjoy all Croatia has to offer, from kayaking to vineyard tastings. The Krka and Plitvice national parks are in full spring bloom, great for hikes to waterfalls or boat rides on turquoise-blue lakes. Additionally, the islands are awake after a sleepy winter, but you won’t find the same cruise-ship crowds of summer. For more information, contact our Croatia specialists on 1-855-558-8530.
5 MONTHS
ARGENTINA'S VINEYARDS Buenos Aires and Mendoza’s vineyards are year-round destinations, but the start of the Argentinian winter can be a rewarding time to explore them. The temperatures are cooler but not unpleasantly so, and the crowds are dwindling. Meanwhile, you might see southern right whales in the waters around the Peninsula Valdes; June marks the start of their mating season. For more information, contact our Argentina specialists on 1-855-310-7387.
7 MONTHS
JAPAN
All eyes are on Japan this year as it hosts the Olympics and Paralympics. If the lead-up to the games has inspired you to visit, consider traveling in late August. You’ll experience the post-sporting buzz without the crowds, and visitors seeking autumnal colors won’t have arrived yet. But if you do want to see autumn’s first blush, visit Hokkaido island, where trees redden earlier. For more information, contact our Japan specialists on 1-855-604-2198.
Two years on the A-List We at Audley know that our specialists are a big part of what differentiates us from other travel companies. That’s why we’re so thrilled to announce that two of our specialists – Japan specialist Tesia Smith and Southeast Asia specialist Jack Tydeman – have been honored by Travel+Leisure with a place on its prestigious A-List, a ranking of the best travel consultants in the country. Both are being recognized for their service and expertise for the second year in a row. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 9
CHECK IN
The most exciting new stays Casacau, Rome, Italy Combining vintage-inspired design and an enviable location near the Trevi Fountain, these stylish boutique apartments make a good base for your Roman holiday. The vibrant kitchenettes are stocked with essentials like eggs, milk and pasta so you can live like a local. Bullo River Station, the Kimberley, Australia This working cattle station has had a facelift, with a new pool and minimalist, spotless guestrooms. Staff are extremely hospitable, but there are no airs and graces. Wi-Fi codes are kept in a locked box; the onus is on cattle mustering and exploring the Outback. Sonop, NamibRand Nature Reserve, Namibia This luxurious, 1920s-style camp (pictured), set in the southern Namib Desert, has ten tents and a heated infinity pool. Staying here, you’ll be treated to butler service, five-course dinners and activities including nature drives, horseback rides, desert yoga and night walks. The Rosewood Yangon, Myanmar (Burma) We were so excited about the Rosewood Yangon’s opening that some of our specialists previewed the epic restoration work on this former colonial courthouse while it was in progress. It’s now welcoming guests as Yangon’s most luxurious heritage hotel, with riverside views from the rooftop pool.
Hit the road in Florence, Italy You can now explore Italy from behind the wheel in Tuscany. Brandon from our Italy team recently took to the road and found the country both remarkably beautiful and convenient to get around by car. He says, “It’s a great place for a road trip
because you get the change to see more local, traditional areas away from the tourists and set your own pace, all while keeping costs down. For more information, contact our Italy specialists on 1-855-811-2112.
New spa-hotel to open in Israel
Our responsible approach: child welfare
We’re excited to announce a new offering in the decadent Six Senses family of spa-hotels, scheduled to open this spring. Located in Israel’s Arava Valley, it’s designed to blend with the rugged, arid setting. The exterior is built of local stone while the restful interiors provide a soothing backdrop for the sweeping desert views. It offers a new level of luxury for visitors to Israel. For more information, contact our specialists on 1-855-629-9266.
We’ve been continuing our efforts to ensure your trip has a positive impact on the communities you visit. We reviewed our child welfare policy recently, and we've completed a thorough audit of the experiences we offer, under a simple rule: ‘If you wouldn’t do it here, then don’t do it there.’ As a result, we’ve been working with our country specialists, guides, and partners across the globe to no longer offer school visits, which disrupt lessons and impact child development.
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ESCAPE ROUTES
What to READ
What to LISTEN TO
What to SEE
What to DOWNLOAD
In Beyond A Thousand Hills, photographer and former Audley staff member Cate Gunn and her brother John capture Rwanda's developments in off-grid eco-tourism, entrepreneurship and daily life. Proceeds go to the Kigali-based African Entrepreneur Collective. Out now.
Explore the world through its music on BBC Radio 3’s Music Planet: Road Trip podcast. From India to Panama, each episode focuses on the musical culture of a different country. Browse the listings before you travel to find one that fits your trip. Available on most podcast apps.
The National Museum of African American History & Culture in Washington, DC is hosting 'We Return Fighting'. Part of the Smithsonian collection, the mixed media exhibit spans 26 themes, highlighting the African American experience during World War I. Open until June 14th.
Packing can be stressful. With PackPoint, you’re given a list of essentials to add to your suitcase. Simply input your destination, length of stay and purpose, and the app tailors your list, taking into account the type of clothing to include based on the forecast. Available on Android and iOS.
Introducing County Donegal Ireland’s northernmost county is a place of wild, raw landscapes, with sweeping beaches, heatherclad mountains, and towering sea cliffs. Since it’s so rugged and remote, it remains a bastion of traditional culture – a third of the county speaks Irish and traditional music and dance remain a vital part of everyday life. Few visitors make it this far north, but we’re thrilled to announce that we can now arrange trips to explore the region. For more information, contact our Ireland specialists on 1-855-704-7257. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 11
ESCAPE ROUTES Souped up Serve this smoky soup with a side of rye and a dollop of sour cream to beat the winter cold
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RECIPE
Solyanka By Lucy Halvorson, Russia specialist This recipe isn’t widely known outside of the Slavic states, which is a shame. For me, it’s real middle-of-winter comfort food; I order it as soon as I set foot in Russia. Don’t be put off by all the sour-tasting ingredients – the result is a deep, rich, orange-colored soup with a smokiness and a zing to it (it’s especially great when you’ve got a cold). Russians typically serve it with some dense rye bread and a dollop of sour cream. Buy smoked chicken if you can find it, but it’s not essential, as long as you use smoked sausage. 12 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
3 pork or beef sausages, cubed 3 cooked smoked sausages, cubed 3 tablespoons of olive oil 1 large onion, diced 3 tablespoons of tomato purée 8.5 cups chicken stock A handful of chopped pickles 4 cooked smoked chicken legs, meat removed and shredded 2 tablespoons capers ¾ cups brine from a jar of pickles Salt and pepper 3 tablespoons of parsley, chopped
1. Cook the sausage slowly until it’s browned and cooked through. Drain on a paper towel. 2. Heat the olive oil, add the diced onion and sauté for five minutes, before adding the tomato purée. Cook until the onion is softened. 3. Bring the chicken stock to a boil, stirring in the sausage and the pickles. 4. Cook for five minutes before adding the rest of the meat, plus the capers, onion mix, and brine. Cook for a further five minutes then season to taste. 5. Take the soup off the heat and toss the chopped parsley over the liquid. Serve immediately, scattering lemon slices, black olives, extra pickles and dill over each bowl.
TO GARNISH: slices of lemon, a handful of black olives, extra chopped pickles, a pinch of chopped dill, a dollop of sour cream.
TRAVEL CLOSER TO HOME HAWAII & CANADA OUR NEWEST DESTINATIONS We’ve picked some of our favorite experiences in Hawaii and Canada that you can look forward to. HAWAII Night Snorkeling with manta rays By Katherine Manning
The shores of Hawaii’s Big Island are frequented by the ethereal presence of manta rays, which feed on plankton after dark. Departing at dusk by boat, you have the chance to see these creatures in their natural habitat. After donning your snorkel gear, you enter the water and hold on to a raft fitted with diving lights that attract the plankton. Once your face is submerged, you’ll see manta rays swimming gracefully below as they feed, oblivious to your proximity.
Join a traditional Hawaiian luau For centuries, special occasions in Hawaii have been celebrated with feasts, once known as ahaaina, and more recently, luaus. You can join one hosted by Nutridge, a peaceful estate set in the green hills above Honolulu. As well as dining on traditional dishes like kālua pua’a (pork slow-roasted underground) and pūlehu (grilled) chicken, you can play Hawaiian games and try hula dancing. For more information, call our Hawaii specialists on 1-855-753-9514.
CANADA Go on the mail run… by seaplane By Sian Bernard
For some of western Canada’s more remote communities, mail is delivered by seaplane. Reserve a seat aboard the mail run plane, alongside local commuters, for an insight into everyday life for these isolated residents. You’ll soar over tiny islands, before stopping at the coastal village of Ganges on Salt Spring Island, where you have time to explore. Returning to Vancouver, you’ll have views across the city skyline and surrounding peaks.
Tour Old Montréal on foot Steeped in French-colonial history, Montréal’s oldest district has many original buildings, which you can explore with a local guide. As you walk through the maze-like streets, your guide will point out sights such as the Notre-Dame Basilica, the city’s three courthouses, the Château Ramezay, and the old Bonsecours Market. You’ll also see works of art and monuments in the Place d’Armes, Place Royale, and Place Jacques-Cartier public squares, where many events have taken place. For more information, call one of our Canada specialists on 1-855-649-2025.
Visit www.audleytravel.com/us/brochures to receive our new Hawaii and Canada brochures.
FIVE TAKES ON
THAILAND One trip. Five of our favorite experiences. Discover the depth and breadth of Thailand’s culture – all within two weeks.
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Thai temples Seeing the Wat Arun from the Chao Praya River; (above) Santa Cruz church in Bangkok’s Portuguese quarter
By Patrick Judy A quintessential Asian megacity, Bangkok is a clash of sleek office buildings, ancient temples and streets filled with the scent of barbecued skewers and freshly prepared curries. It’s a hub for visitors, who you’ll mostly see touring the kaleidoscopic City Palace and wandering down the T-shirt stalls of Khao San Road. On my most recent trip, I joined Paul, a Bangkok resident, who showed me another side to the city. We began by crossing the Chao Phraya River, which splits the cosmopolis, and started to explore its quiet western banks. Immediately you notice a difference: more greenery, low-rise buildings and a distinct lack of fellow travelers. On this tour, which lasts around a morning or an afternoon, you’ll stroll through the Spanish and Muslim quarters, dipping into churches and Sri Lankan temples. We stopped to admire the intricately carved doors of a 200-year-old mosque. Paul explained how certain communities came to live here, and how once this was the heart of the city, before the larger financial districts popped up across the river. In the Portuguese quarter, we stopped at a small house for a pastel de feijão, a light, fluffy
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A GLIMPSE INTO EVERYDAY LIFE IN BANGKOK
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hat makes Thailand such an alluring destination? Our Thailand specialists have banded together to pick five experiences that show you the real essence of the country – and they all fit neatly into one two-week trip. For example, you can explore intimate Bangkok neighborhoods most travelers are unaware of, observe elephants near Chiang Rai, and visit one of the quieter spots among Thailand’s panoply of celebrated beaches.
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pastry covered in icing sugar. Among the faded ochre walls of the Portuguese architecture, I felt, momentarily, like I was in Europe. However, a few paces later we passed an old stilted wooden house that looked like it was slowly sinking into the river. Sitting on the porch was an elderly man who waved us over, eager to find out where I was from and why I’d veered into this neighborhood. As my tour came to an end, we passed a mosque that pulsed with celebratory music (a ‘wedding,’ grinned Paul). Some of the guests had spilled outside, and when they spotted us, ushered us in for a plate of food. I asked Paul if this was a rare occasion. ‘No,’ he said, smiling. ‘This is community life in Bangkok.’
Where next?
Take a five-hour scenic journey on a commuter train from Bangkok to Sukhothai. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 15
THAILAND A taste of Thailand Go on a cooking experience in Sukhothai
A THAI COOKING LESSON IN SUKHOTHAI By Lauren Coppola Wherever I am in the world, there always seems to be a Thai restaurant nearby. The country’s internationally popular cuisine is a big pull for visitors, as there’s nothing quite like tasting a Thai red curry or tom yam soup in the country of its birth. There are opportunities to refine your own Thai cooking skills right across the country, but to get really hands-on, 16 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
I suggest making your own noodles in Sukhothai. The city tends to hit the guidebooks due to its historical park, a sprawl of ruined temples and monasteries where the kingdom of Siam was founded. Across Thailand, however, it’s also a city synonymous with a hearty pork noodle dish. In a tiny restaurant on the outskirts of the historical park, you’ll be shown the fine art of making Sukhothai noodles, which have a chewier, thicker texture than traditional noodles. The dish, like all Thai
cuisine, aims for the ultimate balance of sweet, salty, sour and bitter flavors, and you’ll add barbecued pork, lime, palm sugar and chili in perfect unison. If you’re vegetarian, tofu is used instead. When the dish is ready, you’ll sit down to try your creation, which is served with crushed peanuts, more lime and crunchy green beans – and a rewarding glass of iced coffee or plum soda.
Where next?
Catch a short flight from Bangkok to Chiang Rai.
AN ELEPHANT ENCOUNTER IN CHIANG RAI By Patrick Judy You’ll see pictures of elephants in the airport and on beer bottles, on the currency and almost every type of souvenir. They’re an important symbol to the Thai people and encountering them has become a classic Thai experience. There are lots of wrong ways to do this, but there are also some really worthwhile ways to support these gentle, inquisitive creatures. For me, one of the best is to visit the Elephant Valley Project. Set in a vast tract of jungle on the outskirts of Chiang
Rai, a small handful of ex-logging and circus elephants live with their mahouts and a team of enthusiastic volunteers. Almost immediately after my arrival, I found myself following one of the volunteers into the jungle. We soon spotted an elephant, casually running its trunk over a tree looking for snacks. We kept our distance,
which is especially important – the elephants are being trained to reconnect with their natural environment so that, eventually, they can be released into the wild. At feeding time, there’s the opportunity to help staff pile up giant pineapples (a favorite, stomped on once then eaten whole) and leaves into a buffet. You can also have lunch with the
staff, who are keen to share stories of each elephant’s development, particularly when one has just mastered a new skill that brings it closer to becoming ready for release. You can visit for the day from Chiang Rai, or even spend the night on-site. It’s a very basic experience, with a simple room and shared bathroom facilities in a converted farmhouse, but it was quite something to listen to the elephants’ morning trumpeting as I woke.
Where next?
From Chiang Rai, it’s a short flight to Phuket, followed by a two-and-a-half-hour drive to Khao Sok National Park. Something to trumpet about Go on a responsible elephant experience
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A JUNGLE TREK IN KHAO SOK NATIONAL PARK By Nick Murawski Finding a patch of untouched jungle to hike through is a timeless Thai experience for me, especially when you’re pushing past thick vegetation toward a mountain viewpoint or a hidden waterfall. In Khao Sok National Park, you can take things further and stay in a floating lodge on Cheow Lan Lake. The watery setting allows you to explore by longtail boat deep into the surrounding forest. It’s just you and your guide, so treks can be tailored,
ranging from an hour’s ramble to a lengthy day-long trail. I recommend opting for an early start – it’s so quiet on the lake as the boat coasts along, the occasional hornbill flying above; pack your binoculars. As the jungle awakens, monkeys begin to scrabble around in the treetops and, if you’re incredibly lucky, you might see an elephant come to take a drink. The guides come from the local area. As you explore, they’ll point out hidden creatures or plants of interest. Every time there was the slightest noise, my guide
pricked his ears, looking out for the source – which, on one occasion, was a particularly fluffy tarantula. Part of the experience also includes lunch cooked at a family home – a small cluster of stilted house communities are hidden in the jungle. The villagers take turns to host, ensuring everyone gets the chance to gain income from visitors and, for me, it made for an ideal way to end a morning’s walk.
Where next?
Drive back to Phuket and catch a 30-minute speedboat ride across to Koh Yao Noi.
Explore green Thailand Take on the trails in Khao Sok National Park
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THAILAND The beach and beyond Koh Yao Noi offers a coastline of culture
A COASTAL COMMUNITY TOUR ON KOH YAO NOI By Heidi Lockwood I spend a lot of my time arguing that there’s more to Thailand than its beaches – but I wouldn’t plan a trip without a beach stay. There’s a slip of sand to suit everyone, from secluded coves to restaurant-lined promenades. It can be tempting to arrive and simply flop, but Thailand’s coastal and island communities are just as fascinating to visit as their inland counterparts – mostly because no one else does. Sitting in the middle of Phang Nga Bay, Koh Yao Noi is one of Thailand’s less developed islands, with a handful of hotels tucked into the occasional palm-edged bay. The beaches are photogenic specimens, but I’m suggesting you stay here for its morning island tour.
You’ll start at the waterfront, where a women’s cooperative practices traditional batik painting. On my visit, I was sat down with my own board and paintbrush and shown the correct technique. Your artistic creations will arrive at your hotel later, or can be posted home. Then, it’s a hop into a mini pick-up truck – Koh Yao Noi’s
main form of local transport – for a drive around the island. My guide was eager to point out that the tour is pretty flexible from here on in, depending on the season and your interests. We stopped at a coconut plantation to meet a husbandand-wife team, who showed us around and cut me a fresh nut straight from the tree to drink.
Where next?
It’s a speedboat back to Phuket. With its international airport, you can fly home from there. Or, of course, extend your trip; there are connections to Cambodia, Vietnam and Malaysia.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Flight time from the US to Thailand is around 20 hours. Cathay Pacific have a good range of connections, and fly into Bangkok and Phuket. When to go: Thailand is at its best during the cool and dry season between November and early April. Get me there: A 14-day tailor-made trip to Thailand, including international and domestic flights, starts from $4,300pp. For more information, contact our Thailand specialists on 1-855-595-6472. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 19
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EXPERIENCES
DRINKS WITH A VIEW
We don’t simply mean a cocktail at sunset. Our specialists reveal scenic vistas you can enjoy with a festive drink in hand, be it a pre-dinner aperitif or a steaming cup of coffee… Island Lodge, 1Mumbo Lake Malawi, Malawi
Elly’s Terrace, The 2 SirPeninsula Shanghai
3 Ponto Final, Lisbon, Portugal
Kinabalu, 4Mount Malaysian Borneo
Undersea Restaurant, 5 Ithaa Rangali Island, Maldives
Restaurant, Whale 6 Jonah’s Beach, Sydney, Australia
Recommended by Anna Boughen While sea-like Lake Malawi is beautiful from any angle, one of my favorite spots for a cocktail is at the remote Mumbo Island Lodge. Set on its own secluded island just off the lake’s southern shore, this rustic but exclusive lodge is built on a rocky outcrop and has a relaxed, low-key atmosphere. Come sunset, I like to grab a cool drink from the bar and sit outside as the light fades to gaze over the ‘Lake of Stars’ – you’ll see how the lake earned its nickname as hundreds of lanterns from fishing boats glow on the water’s surface.
Recommended by Sarah Attwood There’s nothing like sitting down to a drink when you’ve earned it. And I mean earned it. Climbing Borneo’s highest mountain is a day’s hike, followed by a 2am start the next day to make the 13,500 foot summit by sunrise. After you’ve savored your achievement, you’ll head down to Pendant Hut, a timbered building clinging to the side of the mountain at 10,820 feet. Here, you’ll be served a steaming cup of tea or coffee in the canteen, which overlooks forested hills, tiny villages and, on a clear day, the islands that dot Borneo’s northern coast far below.
Recommended by Virginia Casey A relative newcomer, the Peninsula slipped in alongside the heritage buildings lining Shanghai’s Bund riverfront in 2009. The hotel’s positioning on a bend of the Huangpu River gives Sir Elly’s Terrace perhaps the best views in the city. It’s ideal to arrive at this 14th floor, open-air rooftop bar before twilight, when you can admire the Bund’s skyline from its plush seating. Then, you watch the river come twinkling and flashing into life as darkness falls, and the towers of Pudong become illuminated with rainbow patterns.
Recommended by Ludo Bennett-Jones Set 16 feet under the improbably clear waters off Rangali, Ithaa is the world’s first undersea eatery and I think it still has the best views in the Maldives. The set menu features sophisticated lunch and dinner options – imagine lobster served with mango gel or chocolate mud cake with lime-infused coconut foam – as well as an extensive wine and cocktail menu. However, the real attraction is the views. You can admire shoals of fish as they shimmer by mere inches from your table, darting among the coral.
Recommended by Sam Thompson The end of a concrete pier lined with abandoned warehouses might not seem like the most promising place for a much-loved restaurant, but this is where you’ll find Ponto Final. Aim to get a table outside on the sliver of weathered dock. The canary-yellow color scheme stands out cheerfully against Lisbon’s often brilliant blue sky, and you sit right on the water’s edge (tread carefully). Gaze across the Tagus at Lisbon’s Praça do Comércio district, and at the city’s graceful suspension bridge, Ponte 25 de Abril. Drinks-wise, choose a local Alentejo wine to complement the hearty home cooking.
Recommended by Vina Nguyen Before eating at Jonah’s, dally with your aperitif on the outside terrace. This gourmet restaurant occupies a plum position on the clifftops above the quiet expanse of Whale Beach (a shy cousin to Sydney’s busier Palm Beach). You’ll gaze out over the Pacific and a slick of buttery-gold sand with rocky margins, fringed by a forested headland. There are good surf breaks here, so you might see a lone surfer plying the waves. Even getting to Whale Beach is an experience; you arrive by seaplane, having soared over Sydney Harbour and the northern beaches en route.
For more information, please contact our specialists on 1-885-639-7245. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 21
GREG MORTIMER It’s not every day you get a ship named after you. To celebrate the Greg Mortimer’s launch, we caught up with the veteran polar expedition leader
Land of the polar bears Spy polar bears swimming next to icebergs
POLAR ADVENTURES
G
reg Mortimer has set foot in Antarctica virtually every summer since 1990. Australian by birth and an experienced polar expedition leader, he’s the co-founder of Aurora Expeditions, one of Audley’s trusted partners in the world of expedition cruising. To celebrate the maiden voyage of the Greg Mortimer, a new vessel named in his honor, we sat down with Greg to talk about his enduring love for the polar regions and his hopes for their future. He also shares some of his greatest wildlife sightings, and pinpoints what he feels to be the main differences between the Arctic and Antarctic.
Greg, when did you first go to the polar regions?
It was back in the early 1980s, when I took a job with the New Zealand government as a geologistmountaineer in Antarctica. I was mapping the mountains near the Ross Sea: a dream job.
What was it about this first trip that captivated you? I can remember stepping out of the plane and looking across at the mountains. It felt like you could stride over there in an afternoon,
24 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
but in reality, they were 75 miles away. I also recall gasping in excitement when the cold hit me. I fell in love right then and there.
Can you tell us about the people you’ve met during your career at the poles?
There’s a cast of thousands, but let me tell you about one of them: Wally Herbert, or rather Sir Wally. He was a famous British explorer and very likely the first person to get to the North Pole. He went overland with dogs, and he got there pretty much
on the same day as Neil Armstrong landed on the moon. I’ve also met artist Keith Shackleton, who is Sir Wally’s nephew.
What, in your opinion, are the main differences between the Arctic and Antarctica?
The Antarctic is full-frontal – it’s in your face, you’re in amongst it. You get an overwhelming sense of the power of the natural forces at work there, especially the ice, and the grand scale of the place. The Arctic is much more subtle: it creeps up on you. It’s quite disarming because of that. The light there is also like no other light in the world. It’s low, soft and quite intoxicating.
What about the wildlife?
In the Antarctic, there is an explosion of wildlife. You can stand on the edge of a colony of 1.5 million penguins, and they won’t see you as a threat. So, a well-behaved human can just be there with the animals, and not feel like they are a burden. In the Arctic, polar bears, the main
POLAR ADVENTURES
‘IN THE ARCTIC, POLAR BEARS, THE MAIN PREDATOR, EAT ANYTHING THEY CAN FIND, SO THERE’S AN EDGE TO THE WILDLIFE THERE’ predator, eat anything they can find, so there’s an edge to the wildlife there. Plus, animals and birdlife are disseminated throughout the Arctic; they’re not found in big populations, like the penguin colonies.
Do you have a favorite species?
In the Antarctic, it’s elephant seals. They are extraordinary creatures. As pups they’re gorgeous – their big eyes look at you plaintively and you just want to cuddle them. When they are fully grown, though, elephant seals are threetonne brutes. On land they’re like a very ungainly slug; in the water they are like nuclear submarines.
The polar bear is also an extraordinary being – but oddly enough, I’ll go for the walrus, a bizarre animal that is hard to get your head around. They look like they’ve been put together as a bad joke, and they behave like that, too; they’re fantastic. A walrus once put a tusk through the side of my Zodiac, which was unusual. We were cruising along, then one big guy came across and punctured it. So, you’ve got to be careful of walruses, but at the same time, they’re generally extremely timid.
Disgruntled walruses aside, what are some of the most memorable
experiences you’ve had on your expeditions?
Seeing whales in the Davis Sea off the coast of east Antarctica; it’s a very wild place. My crew and I had an amazing day when we saw at least 100 whales of different species, in particular a small flotilla of blue whales. We were in an icebreaker going at 15 knots (that’s the best part of 18 miles per hour), and the blue whales were just racing past us. It was like we were standing still. In terms of on-ice experiences, it would be seeing a polar bear hunt. I saw one, with its huge frame, jumping up and down on the ice because it was stalking a seal and
Polar predators (from left) See a gentoo penguin breeding colony with young chicks in the Antarctic; a polar bear making tracks in Spitsbergen, Svalbard
AUDLEY TRAVELER | 25
Arctic adventurers (from top) Spot a walrus lying on snow and paddle past a glacier on a kayaking adventure in Spitsbergen
26 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
could sense its hidey-hole. I then saw the polar bear pick up the seal and drag it out across the ice, before devouring the animal. And here’s something you don’t expect. Near the North Pole, you can sometimes see tree trunks sticking up out of the whiteness.
They’ve come out of the big rivers of Siberia and get trapped in the ice.
What inspired you to start offering polar expedition experiences to others? In the 1990s, I was invited to go as an expedition leader on one
of the first of the Russian ships that were emerging from the embers of the Soviet Union, by a friend who’d started an Antarctic travel company. I saw firsthand the effect that the cocktail of polar experiences has on people. It fired my imagination and I returned home buzzing. Being in the polar regions is such an otherworldly experience that it has a big impact on visitors; their eyes are opened – and that’s a great energy to be around. To see the most jaundiced of city lovers have their eyes opened by the power of this great wilderness, that still recharges my battery. So, yes, I wanted to take people to places you can’t get to otherwise. To have an impact on their thinking. For them to see real wilderness, and understand how puny man is in comparison.
POLAR ADVENTURES
‘THE JOY OF IT IS YOU’RE DOWN ON THE WATERLINE, WITH THE FREEDOM TO PROPEL YOURSELF. YOU HEAR THE ICE SLIDE ALONGSIDE YOUR KAYAK’ If people are keen to add additional adventure activities to their polar expedition cruise, what do you typically recommend?
THE SHIP
Special features • The Greg Mortimer is the first expedition cruise ship to feature an X-BOW™, a cutting-edge inverted bow that will make open ocean crossings smoother. • Fold-out, hydraulic viewing platforms for unobstructed observation of passing marine life. • Special platform for easier and quicker launching of Zodiac boats and kayaks. • Virtual anchoring technology, causing minimal disturbance to the seabed.
Climbing and diving is for the experienced only, but I think kayaking is a really cool thing to do. I’d encourage anyone to get a bit of practice beforehand, though, so you can feel comfortable in the boat and really make the most of the polar experience. The joy of it is you’re down on the waterline, with the freedom to propel yourself. You hear the ice slide alongside your kayak. There is no engine noise; there’s deep silence. There’s an intimacy about that, whether you’re in the Arctic or Antarctic. Also, it can be an even better way to see wildlife, given that there’s no engine noise – although like I said, in the Antarctic creatures don’t have predators on land so you can move respectfully and freely on the edges of them. Hiking, too. I like to take people on hikes, get out and about, stretch their legs and move around. It’s actually easier in the Arctic, as in the Antarctic your routes are limited by crevasse fields, and you get absorbed by the wildlife.
What are you most excited about regarding this new ship – your namesake? The design: it’s wild. It’s the first of its kind in the world, a whole new class of vessel. The bow is so bold in its shape, but the entire vessel is very sophisticated. So much experience from the last 25 years or so has gone into this ship – its functionality, its environmental credentials, the ability to get on and off it easily. All these things are impressive to me.
One aspect of a typical day on a polar expedition cruise (as well as any wet and dry landings) are the daily on-board lectures. How important are these lectures to you?
Very. We have talks every day when we’re not occupied on shore. We have biologists and physicists and geologists, all kinds of specialists; it’s a pretty good classroom. Sometimes we have a talk based on what we’re going to do the following day, but I tend to like not giving away too much information, allowing people to discover the day for themselves. Also, as with all polar expeditions, we don’t always know where we’re going to go, and the ship might need to change direction in the middle of the night.
What do you think the future hold for the polar regions?
We’re seeing the results of climate change in the Arctic, perhaps less so in the Antarctic because of the sheer volume of ice there. In the Arctic, you’ll actually see the impact of climate change, with water pouring off huge ice shelves. Care is required when it comes to travel to the polar regions, and we’re definitely going to need even more rigid management in the next five to ten years.
What’s next for you?
I’ve recently been very tied up with the new ship, but there’s something else I’ve been working on that’s really important: I’m delighted to say that all our expeditions are now carbon neutral. I think it’s a necessity.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Flight time from New York to Ushuaia, Argentina (where you board your Antarctic cruise) via Buenos Aires (where you’ll spend a night) is around 15 hours. For the Arctic, flight time is seven hours from New York to Oslo, where you’ll catch a three-hour connecting flight to Longyearbyen in Svalbard, the Norwegian Arctic. When to go: Cruising in Antarctica is possible between late October to March. The Arctic has a shorter window: visit between May and September. Get me there: ∞ A 15-day tailor-made trip to Antarctica, including two nights in Buenos Aires, starts from $11,375pp. ∞ A 7-night cruise to Svalbard starts from $6,520pp. ∞ For more information, please call one of our polar regions specialists on 1-855-828-8392.
AUDLEY TRAVELER | 27
HEAD TO HEAD Greek chic Head to Santorini for views over the caldera to the glistening Aegean sea; (below) admire ancient ruins in Delos
GREECE vs
Both countries offer varied rugged islands, vast ancient history, cheerful
G
reece and Croatia boast thousands of islands – some large, some small – scattered among the brilliantly blue waters of the Adriatic and Aegean. No matter which you choose, you’ll find sunny skies, an abundance of dusty olive groves and family vineyards making hard-to-find wines. With such choice, it can be hard to decide where to go, so Laura and Stefany offer an overview to help you narrow down your options.
GREEK ISLANDS
By Laura Plansky Each of Greece’s 6,000 islands boasts a distinctive personality and culture. Though you can’t visit them all in just one trip, here are a few of my favorites. With whitewashed houses and sunset views over a sea-filled caldera, Santorini is probably the most photogenic Greek island. It’s certainly the most photographed. Glitterati flock here, drawn to the towns of Fira and Oia, which cling to the cliff overlooking the caldera. For something different, I’d suggest a tour of Akrotiri, instead. Once a Minoan settlement, Akrotiri was buried in the eruption that created the 28 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
island’s caldera. Now it’s an archeological site that uncovers the Bronze Age society that once thrived here. Neighboring Mykonos is similar to Santorini with its sugar-cube houses and glamorous visitors, but it’s also the launch pad to one of ancient Greece’s most sacred sites. Delos was once a prospering city and holy sanctuary, and archeologists have unearthed many of its mansions, temples, and statues. You can visit on your own, or take a private guide to help decipher the ruins. Milos is much less visited than its better-known brethren, even though it offers dozens of beaches. I enjoy Sarakiniko – a playground of wave-sculpted white stone curves and arches – but I also like Papikinou’s soft sands and Tsigrado’s sea caves. Many beaches are difficult to reach by
land, so take a private sailboat tour, and your captain will anchor in a turquoise cove, from where you can swim or admire the view from on deck. Closer to the mainland, Hydra is easier to access via a 90-minute ferry ride from Athens. Wheeled vehicles are forbidden (except for the garbage truck), and for heavy loads, the local residents use donkeys. With its indolent atmosphere, it’s a great place to unwind from your hectic island-hopping schedule. Get me there ∞ A 10-day tailor-made trip to Greece’s islands, including Santorini, Milos, Hydra and Athens, starts from $6,445pp. For more information, contact our Greece specialists on 1-855-800-7321.
s
CROATIA
vineyards and glittering cerulean seas – but which one is right for you? CROATIAN ISLANDS
By Stefany Jevtić There are more than 1,200 Croatian islands strewn along the country’s coast. No matter which you choose, I suggest starting with a guided tour and then spending your time exploring on your own: wander through small towns, kayak on the Adriatic, cycle past olive groves, or visit vineyards to discover wines you can’t sample in the States. Just a 90-minute ferry ride from Split, Hvar is a sunny island that’s become a magnet for yacht owners, who come to dock in glitzy Hvar town. Though it’s fairly small, the town boasts a wealth of elegant eateries, swanky hotels, and a riotous nightlife. If that doesn’t appeal, head to Stari Grad on the north coast. This laid-back settlement is almost the polar opposite of its swanky southern counterpart, with low, boxy buildings crowded together in a warren of narrow streets. Just outside the town you’ll find the Stari Grad Plains, a UNESCO-listed site thanks to its 2,400-year-old agricultural system made from dry-laid stone enclosures. A little south of Hvar, Korčula is covered in gentle hills and lush vineyards growing local grapes that are practically unknown outside of Croatia. On a visit to one of the many family-run vineyards, you can sample white wines made from two indigenous
Life’s a beach Find sand-like pebbles at Zlatni Rat beach; (below) admire the beauty of Korčula’s old town
grapes: Pošip, which creates full-bodied whites, and grk, a variety that produces a dry white with hints of melons and herbs. At the eastern tip of the island, Korčula’s old town is surrounded by 15th-century fortifications built to fend off pirates. Within the ramparts, you’ll find streets lined with Gothic and Renaissance architecture, remnants of the era when the island was protected by the Venetian Republic. Brač is largely overlooked by international visitors, but it’s a popular holiday destination for Croatians. That’s at least in part because it’s home to Zlatni Rat, one of the country’s most popular beaches, thanks to its small, well-rounded pebbles which almost feel like sand (something you won’t find in Croatia). The beach is located in the resort town of Bol, where locals usually stay when they visit.
Stay at Sutivan, instead, which is largely untouched by tourism and makes a great base for exploring. You can kayak clear waters, take a guided bike tour, hike through forested highlands, and visit wineries and olive groves. Just a 30-minute catamaran ride from Split, Šolta is rarely visited, even by locals. There are just a few guesthouses and fewer hotels. I suggest exploring the busy waterfront or taking out a kayak to admire the scenery. You can also find a quiet stretch of pebble beach and enjoy the sea views in glorious solitude. Get me there ∞ A 10-day tailor-made trip to Croatia’s islands, including tours on Hvar and Korčula, starts from $6,800pp. For more information, contact our Croatia specialists on 1-855-558-8530. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 29
BACKSTAGE ON
SAFARI Daily ‘Big Five’ spots, regular 4x4 tours and a lot of hard work… we go behind the scenes at South Africa’s Sabi Sand Wildtuin Reserve WORDS BY SAFARI SPECIALIST AMELIA HENDERSON
Mother’s pride A lioness looks out over Sabi Sands in South Africa, as taken by Africa specialist Amelia
SOUTH AFRICA
Amelia spent part of her recent sabbatical working at a luxury lodge in South Africa’s Sabi Sand Wildtuin reserve. Here, the safari specialist shares her experiences and explains why she finds the area so special.
The big four A mother elephant takes her young herd for a wander through the bushveld
T
he sound of helmeted guineafowl squabbling outside my window woke me up. I was staying at Simbambili Game Lodge, in South Africa’s Sabi Sand Wiltuin reserve bordering the Kruger. However, instead of waking up in one of the lodge’s nine plush suites, I was starting my day in the staff quarters, which were still much more comfortable than I was expecting. What lay ahead didn’t involve game drives, bush walks or an afternoon idling by my own plunge pool. Instead, I’d be greeting new guests, listening to the excitable chatter of people returning from their game drives, and making sure everything, from the rooms to the food, was up to scratch. But I was here, in South Africa, my happy place. My roots in South Africa stretch back almost a decade to when my family moved to Johannesburg for my father’s job. 32 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
I fell in love with the place as soon as I arrived. Every time I visited, we would always find something new and different to do, whether it was a safari, beach time on Durban’s coast or a city break in Cape Town or Johannesburg itself (in my opinion, an underrated city). As an Audley specialist, I returned to explore, and when I was given the chance to take a three-month sabbatical, I knew exactly where I wanted to spend the time. After a few weeks traveling
around South Africa to visit new areas, I arrived at Simbambili Game Lodge for my five-week stint as a member of its front-of-house team. With its nine suites, each with a veranda facing a dry riverbed frequently visited by elephant, an in-house spa therapist and cozy common areas, the lodge is a luxurious option for a safari. However, I soon realized just how much goes on behind the scenes. The lodge itself is run by husband and wife team, Tania and Mike, who have lived
‘ELEPHANT VISITED THE RIVERBED EVERY DAY FOR A MUD BATH, I SPOTTED A LEOPARD DRINKING FROM IT A COUPLE OF TIMES, AND ONE DAY I WATCHED AS FOUR LION BOUNDED OVER TO QUENCH THEIR THIRST’
SOUTH AFRICA
and worked there for 16 years. From the moment you walk in they make you feel welcome, along with the rest of their staff, from the rangers to the scullery workers.
A TYPICAL WORKING DAY
While each day was different in its own way, I soon slotted into a daily routine. I would wake just after guests had headed off on their early morning game drive or bush walk, and gather with the rest of the staff for a run through of the day – who was arriving, who was leaving, any special requests guests might have. I’d then prepare documentation for guests checking in and out before ensuring each suite was up to standard for our new arrivals. Then it was my favorite part: hearing about what people had seen on their morning activities. Their excitement at seeing a leopard or elephant or lion, or AUDLEY TRAVELER | 33
I became acquainted with a mother leopard and her cub, which was just six months old when I first encountered them. As I continued to bump into them on my drives, I was able to watch the cub grow and look more closely at the way they formed a bond. I still check for updates on the cub’s progress via the lodge’s Instagram feed. I also had some fantastic wild dog sightings – a species that’s difficult to see on safari elsewhere due to their dwindling numbers and wide range of movement. You know it’s special when you can see the excitement in your guide’s face upon hearing ‘wild dog’ over the radio. Then adrenaline kicks in as you hurry to where the pack was last sighted, hoping it hasn’t moved on. Luckily for me, a pack of 18, complete with pups, were busy feeding on their latest prey: an unfortunate impala. We watched the gruesome scene for a while, and I was suddenly glad I hadn’t witnessed the kill.
Spotted in the trees The leopard in Sabi Sands are comfortable around vehicles; (below) a wild dog
Room with a view Watching elephant from the lodge
even a bird they had always wanted to spot, was infectious. Most of my morning involved checking in our new guests, showing them around the lodge, and saying goodbye to others (many of whom vowed to return.) I would usually have a bit of time to relax while the guests were on their afternoon game drive. I read a lot of books during my time there (the lodge has its own library), but the best entertainment was found outside. From the lounge I was able to sit and watch over the waterhole. Elephant visited every day for a mud bath, I spotted a leopard drinking from it a couple of times, and one
day I watched as four lion bounded over to quench their thirst. Next, thoughts would turn to dinner. Sometimes we’d surprise guests with a candlelit meal in the middle of the bush, which I’d help set up, waiting in anticipation for them to appear. Or, if they were dining back at the lodge, I’d join them by the roaring fire. The best nights were when the guests bonded over their shared experiences. The air rang with the sound of laughter and stories brought to life in exaggerated voices – the same stories they’d be telling their friends and family back home.
OUT IN THE BUSH
It wasn’t all work, though. Every few days I was able to join game drives, and I had some of the best wildlife sightings ever. Sabi Sands is home to all the Big Five, but it’s particularly known for its leopard population – you’re likely to see one on most days. Sightings of leopard here are different to anywhere else because they’re so comfortable with vehicles; sometimes they get so close you feel you could almost reach out and touch them – although I’d strongly advise against it! 34 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
SOUTH AFRICA There were slightly fluffier sightings, too. One that stuck with me was when I was on a game drive with a family desperate to see giraffe – an animal I’d seen many times before. When we finally tracked one down, they were so excited. I suddenly saw the giraffe through their eyes and I thought, ‘Yes, being so close to the world’s tallest animal is amazing.’ All in all, I was left feeling that Sabi Sands is one of the best safari destinations in the country, if not the continent. It’s private, so only people staying in the reserve’s camps and lodges can do game drives there, so sightings don’t get congested. It has all the headline animals any first-time safari goer would want to see – in one game drive you’ve a good chance of encountering three, four or even all the Big Five. Plus, the intimacy of sightings sets it apart for more seasoned safari enthusiasts.
Under African skies Enjoy dinner with a touch of stargazing
AMELIA’S TIPS FOR A SABI SAND WILTUIN SAFARI • Stay for four nights rather than three. Most of the guests I spoke to wished they’d stayed an extra day. It makes you feel that bit more relaxed and immersed in the bush.
HEADING HOME
Time seemed to pass both slowly and within a blink of an eye, and soon my time at Simbambili came to an end. It was difficult saying goodbye – both to the people who’d become friends, and to Sabi Sands, its familiar dry landscape scattered with bushes and brimming with wildlife. Now back home, I miss being interrupted in the office by elephant passing through the camp (an unlikely occurrence in London). I miss the dramatic sunrises and sunsets blasting the sky with deep oranges, hazy pinks and streaks of lilac. But mostly, I miss falling asleep to the whoops of hyena and waking to the calls of helmeted guinea fowl. What I’ve taken with me from the experience is a renewed love of the bush, and I know that if someone asked me what kind of vacation I’d like to go on, my answer now – and probably always – would be a safari.
• Be prepared for animals to wander through camp – you’re in their territory. Staff will make sure you’re safe by escorting you to and from your room when it’s dark. • Take a pair of binoculars. They’re especially handy for seeing Sabi Sands’ 300 bird species up close. • Try some South African food. Simbambili and many other lodges regularly host braai (South African barbecue) nights around the boma (campfire).
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Flights from Boston to Cape Town via Paris take 18.5 hours. Domestic flights from Cape Town to Kruger’s private game reserves take around 2.5 hours. When to go: Game viewing is excellent year-round, but we particularly recommend June to October, when the dry landscape makes it easier to see wildlife. Get me there: A 9-day tailor-made trip to South Africa, including international and domestic flights, time in Cape Town and a safari in Sabi Sand Wildtuin, starts from $5,559pp. For more information, call our South Africa safari specialists on 1-855-655-7803. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 35
Our specialists’ latest dispatches from Hawaii, Iceland, Mexico and Egypt
HAWAII
By Sophie Poole ‘Despite being more of a lakes lover, I was soon won over by Hawaii’s tropical good looks. I hopped between Maui, Oahu, the Big Island and, my personal favorite, Kauai. Here, I sailed and snorkeled along the Nā Pali Coast, whose sheer emerald cliffs formed a backdrop for both Jurassic Park and the more recent Jurassic World. The kayaking, zip-lining and forest hike experiences left me vowing to return.’
GET INSPIRED
ICELAND By Amanda Resendes ‘The highlight of my trip to Iceland was the country’s landscapes. I spent a whole day exploring Þórsmörk (Valley of Thor), a deep gorge carved by glaciers and framed by snow-draped mountain peaks. My guide, Einar, drove us across rivers in his super jeep (a 4x4 with oversized wheels) and we hiked to volcanic craters, black desert plains and waterfalls feeding crystalclear streams. Our reward? An alfresco lunch freshly prepared by Einar.’
SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE, MEXICO By Alison Wallinger
‘I loved just casually ambling around the colonial town of San Miguel de Allende – that’s really the best way to explore it. You can eat well here: lining its cobbled streets and squares are ice cream and coffee shops, rooftop bars and high-end restaurants. It’s got an artistic streak, too – the town is a hub for fine art galleries, including painting and sculpture, and local handicrafts, such as woodcarving and textiles.’
EGYPT By Albert Goody ‘Built by Ramses the Great on the edge of his empire, the 13th-century BC temples at Abu Simbel are probably the best-known of those that were rescued from Lake Nasser in the 1960s. UNESCO reassembled them above and behind the original site, after it was threatened with being flooded by rising waters with the construction of the Aswan High Dam. My visit, on a cloudless day, was the highlight of my most recent trip to Egypt.’
AUDLEY TRAVELER | 37
Guiding light Make your way down the Sri Lankan coastline with Galle Fort Lighthouse leading your way
SRI LANKA COAST BY COAST
With varied beaches, big (and small) wildlife and sense-tantalizing trails, Sri Lanka’s coast is justly fabled – but which region is best for you? Explorer Marco Polo called Sri Lanka ‘the most beautiful island in the world’ and it’s easy to see why. Sri Lanka specialist Alison Hall has just returned from a research trip to the country, and shares her coastal travel tips.
THE SOUTH & SOUTHWEST COAST
Why go? For Sri Lanka’s best
beach hotels – everything from sleek, international resorts to smaller, boutique properties. 38 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
The sand also ranges from bronzed and palm-fringed to rose-gold and shell-speckled. With rough seas, swimming isn’t always possible; have a dip in your hotel pool instead and go to the beach for long ruminative walks, Indian Ocean-gazing and sunset-viewing. You’ll find cinnamon and low-level tea plantations to explore, too, while the national parks of Udawalawe (for elephant) and Bundala (for coastal birdlife) are possible to visit in a day.
In Kalutara, there’s the sacred Kalutara Bodhiya – its white dagoba is one of the few completely hollow stupas in the world. Plus, if you like architecture, this region is home to one of Geoffrey Bawa’s celebrated properties.
If you only do one thing… Visit Galle, with its elegantly restored smorgasbord of Portuguese, Dutch and British colonial buildings. Try a traditional Sri Lankan mask painting workshop in
Galle Fort, or simply wander around the streets of boutique shops and restaurants.
Where to stay Mosvold Villa, where you can dine alfresco, overlooking the sea. The beach here is slightly more protected, making it possible to swim.
When to go December to April – although this is the busiest time, you stand a good chance of shower-free days.
SRI LANKA THE EAST COAST: Trincomalee & Pasikuda Bay
Nature’s call Fishermen take to the beach on the Kalpitiya peninsula; (below right) spy rare sloth bears in Wilpattu National Park, in the northwest
Why go? For Sri Lanka’s
most striking beaches – wake at sunrise for a particularly photogenic vista. There’s some good snorkeling off Pigeon Island, near Trincomalee, where you can see colorful corals and clownfish (decent snorkeling spots are a rarity in Sri Lanka, as its strong sea currents make for poor visibility.) And then there are the visiting whale pods…
If you only do one thing… Make it whale watching: blue and sperm whales flock here in high numbers between May and October.
Where to stay Jungle Beach: the sand is a deep yellow and fringed with thick vegetation, plus they’ll arrange trips to Pigeon Island. Alternatively there’s Uga Bay at Passikudah Bay. The white-sand bay’s long underwater plateau provides a long stretch of shallows – good for families with water-loving children.
When to go From May to September, when the sea is generally calm.
THE NORTHWEST COAST: Kalpitiya Peninsula
Why go? For Sri Lanka’s
most active beach stay. It’s the country’s prime spot for kite surfing, diving and sperm whale spotting – the species visit this coastline between November and April, joining the spinner dolphins who hang out here nearly all year long. Across the peninsula, are the leopards and sloth bears of Wilpattu National Park.
If you only do one thing… Given that this is a kitesurfing capital, it’d be a shame not to try it: beginner lessons are available.
DELFT ISLAND, THE JAFFNA PENINSULA If you’re looking for the most off-thebeaten-track beaches in the country, you’ll find them just off this isolated peninsula – one of the best discoveries from my recent trip. The sea is bathwater-warm and although you’re restricted to a day trip (there are no hotels here), you can combine a visit with time in the coastal city of Jaffna, with its Dutch fort, restored library and Hindu temples.
Where to stay Palagama Beach. Its cabanas are the epitome of rustic, desertisland-style comfort.
When to go For kitesurfing, between May and October. The weather’s generally drier than the east coast, so you can widen your travel window to include April and November too.
Big sightings Spy pods breaching in Sri Lankan waters on a whale watching trip; (right) calming beaches
For more information, please contact one of our Sri Lanka specialists on 1-855-670-7036.
AUDLEY TRAVELER | 39
NEW ZEALAND
NAPIER
Architectural tours, wineries, Maori culture and birdwatching: two days in Napier, the stylish Art Deco city and gateway to New Zealand’s Hawke’s Bay region. SPECIALIST: EMILY SUMMER
DAY 1 SUNRISE
Head to the city beach q to see the sun lifting above the Pacific in a tangerine wash. Congratulations: due to Napier’s geography, you’re one of the first people in the world to see the new day breaking.
8AM
Breakfast at Mister D’s w. The menu is extensive, but I’d order their doughnuts. As an added quirk, you insert your own fillings (such as custard) into the doughnuts using a syringe.
40 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
10AM
After its 1931 earthquake, Napier was rebuilt and decked out in the style of the day, Art Deco. The best way to see its architectural highlights is to take a guided tour – in a vintage car, no less. It’s a good introduction to the city’s signature look, alerting you to some of the best examples of stained glass, motifs and other detailing.
12PM
Lunchtime. Try the Hunger Monger e for some of the best fish and chips in New Zealand.
2PM
You’ve got two options for this afternoon, depending on how you’re feeling. If you feel like relaxing, escape to the Ocean Spa r. Luxuriate in its waterfront setting and heated outdoor and saltwater pools. However, if you would like to try something more energetic, drive about 45 minutes north of Napier to reach Mountain Valley t – a stretch of forested countryside at the end of the Kaweka mountain range. It’s great for hiking.
6PM
Why go to just one great restaurant for dinner when you can go to many? On a dining tour, you’ll be transported around several Hawke’s Bay vineyards, from boutique wineries to historic establishments like the Mission Estate y(founded by 19thcentury French missionaries). You’ll eat different courses at each place, with wine pairings. However, the icing on the cake is that the tour is perfectly timed so you’ll watch the sunset from Craggy Range u , a glass of bubbles in hand.
Napier nouveau (from left) Appreciate the Art Deco exterior of the National Tobacco Company Building; lunch at a winery; enjoy the Dome’s Art Deco style at the heart of Napier’s atmospheric seafront
Art, wine & nature (clockwise from this) Find thousands of Australasian gannets at Cape Kidnappers; climb Te Mata peak; relax at the Elephant Hill Winery; Waipunga Falls; (opposite) head to Napier’s vineyards to enjoy some of New Zealand's best wine country
TOP TIP ‘If driving over from Taupo, stop at Waipunga Falls, a three-pronged cascade an hour’s drive from Napier.’
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Mission Estate Winery Eskdale Ōtātara Pā Historic Reserve
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Hastings
Mission Estate Winery Ōtātara Pā 8 Historic Reserve
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Time for a short stroll. Pop into Charleston Chic s , a store
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Hop in a 4x4 with a guide to reach the headland of Cape Kidnappers a. The clifftops here are home to a 3,000-strong colony of yellow-headed Australasian gannets. You might see males offering seaweed to females as part of their mating dance.
Waipunga Falls Mountain Valley
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Flight time is 12.5 hours direct to Auckland from Los Angeles. When to go: For a quieter, calmer ambience, go for August, the tail-end of New Zealand’s winter. Alternatively, if you love Napier’s look, early February sees the city host its annual Art Deco Weekend (you’ll need to book up to a year in advance). Get me there: A 19-day tailor-made trip to New Zealand, including time in Napier, Tongariro National Park and Waitomo, starts from $5,534pp. For more information, contact our New Zealand specialists on 1-855-760-0056.
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2:30PM
You have a dinner reservation at Pacifica d , a fine-dining restaurant with locally sourced produce.
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Your tour finishes with local seafood snacks. Then, head to Elephant Hill winery o for a light lunch.
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Good morning. I thought you might appreciate a later start today, after last night’s indulgences… After breakfast, drive to the site of a pa i (a place where a Maori fortress-cum-village once stood). Following a powhiri (welcome ceremony), you’ll explore the site. The signs of its existence are barely visible, but your guide will show you archaeological traces and explain the importance of the site.
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dedicated to all things Art Deco including clothes, bags, jewels and various trinkets.
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Ajuna Eatery Mister D’s
Tutira
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AUDLEY TRAVELER | 43
YOUR STORIES SHARE YOUR STORIES AT WWW.AUDLEYTRAVEL.COM/US/SHARE
The big picture (clockwise from this) John painting his private camp in Oman’s Empty Quarter and his depiction of it at sunrise; John at work in the Antarctic and his painting of the red ship; John and wife riding camels in the desert
OMAN & THE ANTARCTIC
Commander John Ford, a former pilot in the Royal Navy, has traveled across Oman and cruised the Antarctic – and painted in both
C
ombining his passion for painting with a love of travel, Commander John Ford shows us the artwork he created while exploring Oman and the Antarctic, and tells us what inspires his creativity.
continued to paint ever since, and now have a particular interest in marine painting, having had a 26-year career in the Royal Navy.
How long have you been painting for?
As a pilot in the Royal Navy I’ve seen a lot of the world, but my wife and I have always enjoyed traveling – she came out to meet me in Singapore when we were first married.
Since I was an aspiring artist at 17 – I still have some of my original paintings. I’ve 44 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
Has traveling always been a passion?
I’d say that the highlight of our travels has been our trip to Antarctica with Audley. We cruised from South America to the Falkland Islands and South Georgia before reaching the Antarctic Peninsula. Everyone should make a stop in South Georgia, if they can, as it’s teeming with bird and animal life. As for the Antarctic itself, I think it’s very special. There’s almost something philosophic about being on this vast, uninhabited continent.
YOUR STORIES
What was it like to paint in the Antarctic?
On our cruise we set out twice a day in Zodiac dinghies. One day, while the others trudged off to see a penguin colony, I was dropped off onto my own patch of snow. As an artist, you are always looking for a nice composition, and as I headed off with my paint box, I settled down to paint the scenery, using the red hull of our ship as a focal point.
On this day it was sunny, so the cold was bearable, and as the heat of my body melted the ice, I began to slowly sink into the snow as I painted. I paint with oils and have a box that has a special set of slots so I can slip the paintings in there to dry.
You’ve painted everywhere, from watery landscapes to deserts... The desert was pretty cold too. As part of our recent trip across Oman, we spent a night in the Rub’ al Khali, known as the Empty Quarter, one of world’s largest deserts. We drove around 25 miles into the sandy dunes, where our private camp was pitched. After sunrise, one of the team carried a chair for me out across the sand, and I set my paint box on my knee just as the sun began to rise behind the dunes. I painted our camp but, using a little artistic license, I omitted the support tent and kitchen in the background.
How did painting in Oman’s desert contrast to the Antarctic?
Well, sand got everywhere for starters. The highlight was the human interactions. When I was painting, the staff at our camp was excited to see what I’d been up to, and everyone was always incredibly warm and welcoming. In fact, this was my biggest impression of the country. Our driver guide stayed with us for the entire trip and helped us learn about the Omani people and their lives. They’ve experienced a big change over the last 50 years, moving from being a nomadic people to a more modern society, and he shared this with us during our trip.
What have you done with these paintings?
At the moment they’re stacked up in my studio, as I’ve just finished preparing for an upcoming exhibition. It’s just a question of wall space!
SHARE YOUR STORIES AT WWW.AUDLEYTRAVEL.COM/SHARE AUDLEY TRAVELER | 45
DOWN TO THE DELTA Chris Birch and his wife Adrienne recently traveled from Pu Long in the north down to southern Vietnam’s Mekong Delta
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ur guided walk in Pu Long was all downhill, and with the humidity we weren’t looking forward to the trek back up. It was great when we discovered the driver was waiting at the bottom. As we walked, villagers called out xin chào (hello) in greeting as we passed. Sometimes the children would shout ‘hello’ and giggle.
VIETNAM 46 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
On the way back, we paused to see bamboo waterwheels – our guide explained that they irrigate the rice fields that are at a higher level than the river. We also walked around the rice fields while in Mai Chau, where we saw lots of small communities, a farmer sitting on his heels and watching his water buffalo and another leading his cow to fresh grass.
TASTING HANOI
On our drive to Hanoi, there were lots of roadside stalls selling different things. After stopping for oranges, sugar cane and grilled fish, we guessed our driver must have a shopping list from his wife. In the afternoon, we had a food-tasting experience with a blogger who took us to lots of little places to try the local food,
such as pho bo (a beef noodle soup), omelettes, a baguette made from rice flour, quail, and a green mango salad. This was a great introduction and gave us ideas for later in the trip. It seems that the Vietnamese don’t linger over their food; you just about finish one thing before heading off to seek out the next snack. Our hotel, the Hanoi Pearl, was in a great location close to
YOUR STORIES
Visiting Vietnam (opposite) Chris and Adrienne traveling through northern Vietnam; (clockwise from this) farmer weeding the rice fields in Mai Chau; motorcyclists in Hanoi; a pig float
the lake. We were in Hanoi over the weekend, when the streets around the lake were closed to traffic. Teenagers were skipping and playing jianzi, a bit like foot badminton – they kick a special shuttlecock with a heavy rubber base to one another. We bought one for our own children to try.
HOI AN’S GREATEST HITS I’m convinced that our hotel, The Merchant House, in the old quarter of Hoi An, cooks the best omelettes in Vietnam. It also runs a range of activities, including a two-hour boat trip, a foot massage and a food tasting, with rice wine to wash it down. The music here was certainly interesting. We visited a bar
with a U.S. Army theme, where a band played a Carpenters song with a reggae beat! The guitarist moved effortlessly from classical music to western pop songs from the 1950s to 70s. The night market is a great place to try some street food, too. I entertained everyone with my inability to get up off the tiny stools.
SWIMMING IN SAIGON
We took a flower-market tour in Saigon. In the past, the flowers came from Cambodia, but now the majority come from Dalat, an agricultural city that was the capital of the Federation of Indochina during World War II. We watched stallholders make beautiful
bouquets of lilies, orchids and roses – each taking several hours and selling for little. We stayed at the Liberty Central Hotel, where we swam in the infinity pool on the 24th floor – what a fabulous view. When we returned to the hotel after exploring the area, we visited the roof terrace bar, sipping mojitos as we watched the sun go down.
MEKONG DELTA DELIGHTS
We arrived at Coco Riverside Lodge, on the banks of the Mekong, by boat. Our cabin faced out to the river and hammocks were provided for us to relax in (and hopefully
not fall out of). While we relaxed, we watched the boats chug past. Several of them hadn’t seen any paint for years, apart from the eyes painted on to protect them from evil spirits. On our cycle ride that afternoon, we saw some people making crispy rice – everyone jumped when they popped the rice. On the small roads, not only did we have to dodge the chickens (they were definitely free range) but we also skirted around the rice that had been spread out to dry. We also visited a rice mill and met the friendly owner, who was very proud of his Manchester United t-shirt.
SHARE YOUR STORIES AT WWW.AUDLEYTRAVEL.COM/US/SHARE AUDLEY TRAVELER | 47
#TheAudleyWay We love receiving your images and updates on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. Even if you’re not currently traveling, we would love you to share images from your recent trips. BIRD’S EYE VIEWS
@works4clothes Beach near Hoi An, Vietnam
@franziska_schaerli Mount Bromo, East Java, Indonesia
@ashonlife Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe and Zambia
Will Thomas Palenque, Mexico
Ian Carson ArtScience Museum, Singapore
@audrey_spear Cape Town, South Africa
@thetogethertravellers Tanzania
@the_realfrankg Sigiriya Rock, Sri Lanka
@gdjustis Lake Wanaka, New Zealand
We always love to see what you are up to on your travels. Please continue to share your favorite photos and memories with us, simply write #TheAudleyWay and @AudleyTravel on your Instagram and Twitter posts. Alternatively, you can post directly to our Facebook wall or upload your images to www.audleytravel.com/us/social
48 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
INTERVIEW
ÓMAR SIGURÐSSON What’s it like to show people around the country you’re passionate about? Superjeep guide Ómar Sigurðsson discusses his role in helping people discover the best of his home country, Iceland. Ice to meet you Explore Iceland with Ómar Sigurðsson
Why did you first become a guide?
I’d worked in IT for over 20 years, but I’d always enjoyed the outdoors: camping, hiking, fishing and exploring, so I decided to take a break one summer to become a guide. Thirteen years later, here I am, still on a break.
What is your favorite thing about your job?
Meeting people from all over the world and seeing Iceland through their eyes. This country has a seemingly endless amount to offer. I’m always discovering something new and exciting.
Where is your favorite place in Iceland?
Grímsfjall, a mountain rising from Vatnajökull glacier. There’s a large hut on top of the mountain where you can stay overnight. It’s
at least a three-day journey to get there as you have to drive over a glacier. The hut’s half-buried in snow and the icicles are horizontal from the wind. Luckily after digging your way inside, it’s warm and cozy. You can also take a natural steam bath in the middle of Europe’s biggest glacier.
What’s so special about Iceland?
In summer, Iceland experiences almost 24 hours of daylight. The time between 4am and 6am is magical. When winter comes, I really like playing in the snow with snowmobiles or superjeeps, plus there’s always a good chance of seeing the northern lights.
INSIDER TIP Best hiking spot? Landmannalaugar, in the highlands.
Iceland’s an amazing country where you can see so many things in a single day – lava fields, hot springs, waterfalls, volcanoes and glaciers. The variety of the landscape is so incredible and different.
Do you prefer summer or winter in Iceland?
What’s your top tip for anyone planning to visit in 2020?
Remember that the weather is very unpredictable. We say: ‘We don’t have any weather, only examples of how weather can be,’ because it changes so quickly. Then again we also say: ‘There is no bad weather, only inappropriate attire.’ If you dress correctly, in layers, you can always enjoy the outdoors.
Which activity do you most enjoy leading?
I’m a superjeep guide, so I like venturing off the beaten path to explore beautiful places where no one else is around. I also love hiking, especially glacier hikes.
What three things should visitors do in Iceland? First, enjoy the hospitality of Icelanders – we like to make you feel welcome. Second, enjoy the water: drink fresh spring water from the tap and bathe in the country’s many thermal baths. Finally, simply enjoy nature. Take your time and embrace being in the middle of nowhere, and if you don’t see everything on your first visit, you’re welcome again and again. For more information, please call our Iceland specialists on 1-855-505-0475. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 49
Q&A
PERU
WITHOUT THE CROWDS
Peru is popular and rightly so, but are there ways of stepping off the tourist conveyor belt? Yes, say our Peru specialists, and here’s how. PERU SPECIALISTS
Fiona Cameron
Lizzie Williams
Ryan Moncton 50 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
Q A
I want to hike the Inca Trail, but I’ve heard it’s busy. You’re right – 500 permits a day are issued for the ‘classic’ Inca Trail. Though it’s a rewarding hike, you might want to consider another path used by the Incas. The Salkantay Trek is a multi-day circuit around the mountain of the same name, taking you up to snow-streaked passes and glacial lakes, and then down through pampas, green valleys, and fruit plantations. The Lares Trek takes you through slightly less demanding terrain and visits Andean weaving communities, allowing you to better appreciate their skillful textiles. You can camp or stay in comfortable lodges. Then there’s the more remote, high-altitude Ausangate circuit. It sees you circumnavigate a sacred peak near Cuzco over five days, and takes in Rainbow Mountain. Its candy-striped look is due to sedimentation, its mineral make-up and the wonders of plate tectonics. Got your heart set on approaching Machu Picchu on foot? You could hike KM104 (roughly the last day of the Inca Trail), combining it with a more off-the-grid, one-day walk in the Sacred Valley. I like the Huchuy Qosqo trail, a high-pass route descending to a plateau where some hidden ruins squat, overlooking the valley. RM
Q
I’d love to visit the Peruvian Amazon. Where should I go for a quieter experience? Most people stay in the Tambopata Reserve in the southern Peruvian Amazon, so go against the grain and head north to Iquitos. In Peru’s northern Amazon lodges, you’ll encounter fewer travelers, since the majority of visitors stay on cruise ships – and there aren’t even that many of those. I prefer the north. You have a good chance of seeing pink river dolphins, entrancing creatures whose flesh is a light rose color. There’s a larger population of sloths, and you’ll have a private naturalist guide at your lodge – in the south, you’ll normally share a guide with others. You’ll also travel on the main Amazon, which is always a thrill; the flow of water is much faster and the river is immensely wide. FC
escarpment by the Chachapoya people (800 to 1476 AD – their name poetically translates as ‘cloud warriors’). It’s believed to have been a sacred or ceremonial center. Unlike Machu Picchu, vegetation is busily consuming the ruins, giving them a wild, ragged feel. In the desert around Chiclayo, there’s the treasure trove of the Lord of Sipán, who is thought to have been a VIP of the Moche culture (200 BC to 600 AD). You can examine the finery discovered in his tomb. Think astonishingly detailed metallurgy, from gold helmets to earrings set with turquoise. Near Trujillo, there’s the stepped Moche temple of El Brujo, with a tattooed female mummy as its showpiece. I also really like Tambo Colorado, an Inca adobe complex near Pisco, south of Lima. LW
Q
Where can I go for a bit of downtime in Peru? Why not go to the beach? Máncora, in the northwest corner of Peru, has a languid fishing village mentality. It has long, white-sand beaches that never feel crowded. They’re lined with small, chic hotels and private houses, and tuk-tuks roam up and down. There’s good surfing, and, between July and September, look out for breaching humpbacks. There’s also great ceviche. FC
A
I plan to visit Machu Picchu, but I’d also like to see some more off-thebeaten-path ruins. Which ones do you recommend? It’s easy to forget that the Incas are only part of Peru’s history – many other civilizations flourished here. Witness their legacy by traveling to the mountainous inland and coastal desert of northern Peru, a region ignored by most visitors. Take a cable car to Kuélap, a limestone site built high on an
A
Q A
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