SUMMER 2018
T A K E O V E R
READERS’ ISSUE
Your photos. Your stories. Your tips. We hand Traveler over to you.
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CONTENTS 4 First Sight
Great images from Audley travelers: this edition, Botswana and Thailand.
8Escape Routes
Travel news, from new stays to the latest flight routes. Explore New Zealand on two wheels, Boreno’s push towards sustainability and learn about our charity of the year, ShelterBox.
14Iberian Peninsula
Our team of specialists share their favorite experiences from our two newest destinations: Spain and Portugal.
20 Just Back From…
Audley travelers report back from their latest trips in Scotland, Indonesia, Burma (Myanmar) and Brazil.
Traveler 22Audley Readers’ Awards
We turn to you, Audley travelers, to tell us your favorite destinations and experiences from your travels.
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Head to Head: Tasmania vs Kangaroo Island
Australia boasts two wildlife-packed islands off its mainland – but which is best for you?
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China
This huge country is becoming easier to explore thanks to its high-speed railways. Specialist Stephanie shares her favorite route. Plus: Audley traveler Alan tells us about his amazing experience in China’s south.
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YOUR TIPS
Keep an eye out for useful tips from Audley travelers throughout this issue.
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6 38Top Food & drink experiences Audley travelers share their favorite culinary moments from across the world.
40Tanzania
East Africa boasts some of the best safari experiences as well as the opportunity to meet the Maasai people. Specialist Mark shares his highlights. Plus: Audley traveler Nicola tells us about her wild journey.
48Interview: David Moore
Author David explains how traveling around the world with Audley inspired his first book.
50Your Photos
Photos from your travels: this issue, architectural highlights.
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WELCOME
Dear Traveler We’re proud to welcome you to this summer Audley Traveler Takeover edition, which has been led by many of your travels and favorite experiences. Whether you’ve shared your photos with us on social media, sent us your recipes or voted for your top travel destinations in our email survey, we’d like to thank you for contributing to this issue. You can find out what was voted the best train journey, city and beach in our Audley Traveler Readers’ Awards (p22) and hear about some of our travelers’ top culinary experiences (p38). While creating this issue, we’ve met some fascinating travelers, including Alan, who recently traveled to China with us and already has another trip planned for 2019 (p36). Also, David Moore, whose round-the-world trip inspired his first book – a must read for any discerning traveler. Our specialists have also been on hand to share their experiences of their recent research trips. On page 28, Australia specialists Alice and Jenna weigh up which Australian island they prefer for wildlife-spotting: Kangaroo Island or Tasmania. And, on page 30, specialist Stephanie takes us on her favorite high-speed train journey through China. I hope you enjoy the issue.
Jacqui Lewis President & Managing Director, North America
77 N Washington St, 6th Floor, Boston, MA 02114 Telephone: 1-855-838-8300 Website: www.audleytravel.com The vacations featured in this magazine are suggestions only and will be customized to fit your travel dates and preferences. All prices quoted are exclusive of international flights and subject to change. Designed by Wanderlust Travel Media. CST#2117258-40 | Fla. Seller of Travel Ref. No. ST39468.
Contributors Jenna Sweig Australia specialist On Jenna’s first visit to Australia, the diversity of the country’s natural wonders captivated her and have since kept her coming back time and again. On page 28 she shares one of her favorite places. Where exceeded your expectations? Spear-crabbing in the Daintree region with an aboriginal guide. Alan Hewison Audley traveler Alan shares his experiences traveling across China from Shanghai to Chengdu (p36). He was so taken with the culture that he is due to return in 2019. Where exceeded your expectations? Rural China with its superb scenery and wonderful people. David Moore Audley traveler and author In 2017, David and his wife Helene set off on a ten-month round-the-world adventure. On page 48 he talks about some of his highlights and explains how he’s been inspired to write a book about his travels. Where exceeded your expectations? Ballooning over the temples in Bagan, Burma (Myanmar).
Images supplied by Audley travelers, staff and suppliers, Mathieu Dupuis/Le Québec maritime, Robert Harding, Alamy, Trevor Kinzie, courtesy Denver Arts & Venues, TASCHEN, National Geographic Creative/ Hugo van Lawick, Superstock, iStock and AWL
SUMMER 2018
T A K E O V E R
READERS’ ISSUE
FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA FOR DAILY TRAVEL INSPIRATION Tag @AudleyTravel and #TheAudleyWay to share your travel photos with us.
Your photos. Your stories. Your tips. We hand Traveler over to you.
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THINGS we’ve learned this issue
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There’s much more to Xian than the Terracotta Army, including the street food of the Muslim Quarter (p34).
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Spain’s Alhambra palace offers not only tours but also the option to spend the night (p14).
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Kangaroo Island is home to subspecies found nowhere else in the world (not even mainland Australia), such as the rare glossy black cockatoo (p29).
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In Tanzania, the black heron uses its wingspan to cast a shadow over the water to attract fish, making it look like a floating umbrella in the process (p42).
On the cover Blue-footed booby, the Galapagos Congratulations to Christopher Donovan, winner of our front cover competition. Turn to page 8 to read more about his winning photo and to see our runners up. For more information on trips to the Galapagos, request a brochure at www.audleytravel.com/us/brochures AUDLEY TRAVELER | 3
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CHOBE NATIONAL PARK, BOTSWANA By Margaret Andrews, Audley traveler �In July 2017, I took my son, his partner and three teenage grandchildren to Botswana, Zambia and Victoria Falls. Sango Safari Camp in Botswana was luxurious, with private game drives, plus delicious food. We then flew north to Chobe Safari Lodge. The best activity there was a private boat trip on the river. It took place at lunchtime, so very few boats were out, enabling us to get close to many animals, including a family of elephant sheltering a young calf as they came down to drink. This was the closest I have ever been to wild elephant with their young.�
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FIRST SIGHT
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CHIANG MAI, THAILAND By Gordon T. Harris, Audley Traveler ”My partner, Debbie, and I walked the incline up to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep feeling the warmth of the sun and a gentle breeze, listening to the faint ring of the many brass chimes. We participated in three clockwise walks around the pagoda, all the while concentrating only on positive thoughts. As the sun was beginning to set, we were invited to experience the monks’ blessing ceremony. The serene atmosphere was extremely soothing and we became curious about the daily life of a Thai monk. Leaving in silence, we savored the calm as the chanting continued to occupy our minds.”
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FIRST SIGHT
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ESCAPE ROUTES
TRAVEL NEWS | FLIGHT DECK | CHARITY UPDATE | CHECK IN
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ON THE COVER
The winner of our front cover competition, revealed For this issue of Audley Traveler, we’ve turned to you for your photos, stories and tips. Of course, the takeover issue wouldn’t be complete without a cover shot from one of our travelers. We received hundreds of fantastic entries that we’ve narrowed down to our three favorites. Here’s what our photographers had to say about their shortlisted images…
Runner up Nick Kinna “I took this photo in the Mitai Maori village just outside Rotorua, on New Zealand’s North Island. We’d all settled down by the river in quiet expectation when the Maori warriors appeared from upstream in a waka (traditional canoe) – it was a magical start to a cultural and entertaining evening in which we learnt about the history and legends of the Maori.”
Runner up David Reynolds “Last June, we visited Khwai Tented Camp in Botswana. Our guide, Sinka, was determined to find a leopard that we had briefly seen the previous evening – and we were lucky to see her again in daylight. This is my favorite photo of the mother and cub, as they’re looking directly into the lens; the picture is hung on my wall and their eyes follow me around the room.”
Winner Christopher Donovan “As visitors arrived at North Seymour in the Galapagos Islands, this blue-footed booby waited to greet them. Although small, the island is an astounding wildlife location, with boobies, frigate birds (with their enormous red pouches) and brightly-colored land iguanas. We even witnessed a few steps in the famously awkward booby courtship dance.”
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ESCAPE ROUTES
South Africa in numbers
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FLIGHT DECK
Years since the birth of Nelson Mandela
The latest flight news
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Kenya Airways is launching new direct flights from New York’s JFK airport to Nairobi, Kenya, on their Boeing Dreamliner. The flight will launch this October in conjunction with their new direct option from Nairobi to Cape Town, South Africa, making multi-destination travel more accessible.
Capital cities: Pretoria, Bloemfontein and Cape Town
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Official languages
Latam Airline Brazil will offer direct flights from Boston’s Logan International Airport to Sao Paulo, Brazil. The flight will operate four times per week starting on July 2nd. Chicago O’Hare International Airport will now offer direct flights to Auckland, New Zealand, offered through Air New Zealand. Flights will be offered on a 787-9 Dreamliner aircraft on a thrice-weekly basis. The world’s longest non-stop flight is launching on October 11th thorough Singapore Airlines. The 19-hour-long flight will travel from Changi Airport in Singapore to Newark Liberty Airport in New York.
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Species of plants found on Cape Town’s Table Mountain
New Zealand on two wheels New Zealand is known for its Great Walks, but if you’re looking for a different way to explore its scenery, there are also some equally rewarding cycling trails that are well worth your energy. Whether you’re seeking a multi-day experience or something shorter, we have sought out trails of differing lengths across both the North and South islands. Choose from options such as the historic Otago Central Rail Trail, mountain vistas around Queenstown and the coastline near Hawke’s Bay. For more information, please contact our New Zealand specialists on 1-844-250-3440.
2.3-million Year-old skeletons found in Sterkfontein caves
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Square miles covered by Kruger National Park
Explore sustainable Borneo Set within a remote part of Sabah, Borneo’s Deramakot Forest Reserve has suffered greatly from logging in the past. However, a recent change of attitude and greater education on forest conservation has allowed it to thrive. The area is home to some of Borneo’s native wildlife, including pygmy elephants, orangutans and the elusive clouded leopard. Spending time here is a great addition to a Borneo trip. Learn about the history of the area on night safari drives and explore the walking trails that wind through the lush rainforest. Accommodation here is locally run, providing an authentic and sustainable experience. For more information, please contact our Borneo specialists on 1-855-838-2120. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 9
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ESCAPE ROUTES
Your news: painting a picture CHECK IN
The most exciting new stays Wadi Rum Night Luxury Camp, Wadi Rum, Jordan Located in the heart of the Wadi Rum Reserve, this camp offers traditional Bedouin-style and en suite ‘Full of Stars’ tents (pictured). The latter’s bubble-like appearance stands out against the desert landscape, while a clear dome above the bedroom offers panoramic views of the night sky. Shipwreck Lodge, Skeleton Coast, Namibia Each room in this property resembles the remains of the derelict ships that are strewn along its coastline. Enjoy views across the dunes to the Atlantic, and activities including sunset drives, exploring shipwrecks and tracking desert-adapted elephant. Samudra House, Habaraduwa, Sri Lanka Sitting at the southern tip of Sri Lanka on Koggala Beach, the newly built Samudra House is a two-bed villa with panoramic views of the Indian Ocean. Designed by one of Sri Lanka’s top architects, the villa boasts stylish interiors and is just ten kilometres from Galle. Maria Bonita Inn, Fernando de Noronha, Brazil This boutique inn is set in a quiet neighborhood and within walking distance of some of the island’s best beaches, including Cachorro Beach. It has been uniquely furnished with locally sourced materials, providing a tranquil place to say on one of Brazil’s beautiful laid back islands.
Taking photographs on your travels is a great way to capture some of your favourite moments. Artist and Audley traveller Bob Woodhouse takes things a step further by recording his most memorable moments in a series of detailed paintings. “My interest in art was recently reignited by a visit to India. When planning our trip, I almost persuaded my wife not to include the Taj Mahal, fearing that it may be overcrowded. However, timing our visits there at sunrise and sunset meant we avoided the crowds and had a very special experience – how glad I was that we decided to include a visit after all.” To see more of Bob’s work, please visit www.bobwoodhouseart. blogspot.com
Picture perfect ‘Blue Taj’ By Bob Woodhouse
Score a ticket to the Australian Open Every year at the end of January, Melbourne, Australia hosts the 14-day Australian Open, a tennis tournament featuring some of the world’s most talented players. Audley Travel is offering a VIP ticket option to the event. Tickets will give access to the matches as well as entrance to a designated marquee where guests can go to escape the heat. An upgrade option is also available which includes a behind-thescenes event tour and possibly the chance to stand on the court before the matches start. A ticket to the match is a wonderful way to expand and enhance any trip to Australia. For more information, please contact our Australia specialists on 1-844-250-3450. 10 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
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ESCAPE ROUTES
How carbon offsetting is making a big difference To counteract the carbon footprint left by flying, we offset all flights taken by staff on research trips, and give all Audley travelers the option to do the same. In 2017, we offset a total of 2,251 tons of carbon. This doesn’t tell the full story, though: by supporting Kenya’s LifeStraw water filter project, which reduces the need to burn wood for boiling water, Audley also provided around six million liters of clean water for around 5,000 people. This year, Audley is supporting a new project: the Jikokoa stove. Much of Kenya’s household energy comes from wood, mostly burnt on smoky open stoves; this leads to air pollution, respiratory diseases and contributes to climate change and deforestation. The Jikokoa stove dramatically reduces fuel usage and cooking time. Find out more about these projects at www.audleytravel.com/us/about-us/ responsible-travel#carbon
Here are some examples of items typically found in a ShelterBox:
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CHARITY UPDATE
What’s in a ShelterBox?
W
e are supporting ShelterBox as our Charity of the Year in 2018. Following a disaster, a ShelterBox contains all the essentials to help rebuild the lives of those affected. Each item in the box is carefully picked to ensure that the best help is on offer in all individual circumstances.
• Custom ShelterBox family tent – built to withstand high winds and sub-zero temperatures • 50 foot nylon rope – vital for keeping shelters secure and stable • Two collapsible 4 gallon water carriers – enough for a family of four for a day • Two treated mosquito nets – offers protection against malaria-carrying insects • Two inflatable solar lights – keeps families safe in the darkness • Water purification unit – turns dirty water into clean drinking water • School bag – packed with everything a child needs to keep learning • Other essentials such as blankets, groundsheets, cooking pots, utensils and multi-use containers When a community is damaged, but not completely destroyed, a smaller ShelterKit can also be provided; this contains essential tools to repair homes. We aim to raise £50,000 this year to put towards providing shelter and equipment to around 200 families. To read more about Audley’s fundraising efforts, please visit www.audleytravel.com/us/about-us/ fundraising
What to READ
What to WATCH
What to SEE
What to DOWNLOAD
Recommended by Danna English “Road Trip Rwanda combines humor, history and geography to educate and entertain the reader about Rwanda. Will Ferguson takes you on a fun and enlightening journey though this amazing place known as ‘The Heart of Africa.’” Out now.
Recommended by Jenny Ramsey “I really enjoyed learning about Egypt’s history by watching BBC One’s Civilizations. When I saw Mary Beard gazing at a statue of Ramses II and exploring Karnak, I finally booked a trip.” Civilizations can be viewed at www.pbs.org/civilizations/home/
Recommended by Suzanne Buikens “A true marvel of the modern art world, I recommend going to The Cleveland Museum of Art this summer to see the work of Yayoi Kusama. Her bright installations are a rare treat for the senses.” On display July 7th through September 30th
Recommended by Anna Li “Keeping track of multiple currencies can be tricky. XE Currency offers live exchange rates and will even store the most recent rates, so you can continue to use the app offline. I use it all the time when traveling.” Available on iOS and Android. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 11
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ESCAPE ROUTES ↘
READER RECIPE
Indian kadhi By Elizabeth Kolbeck, Audley traveler
K
nowledgeable, elegant Mrs Singh, the grand lady of Dera Mandawa, was all mine. No one else had booked the cooking course that evening. My husband sat comfortably reading, supplied with drinks; she and I cooked at a courtyard kitchen in the soft Rajasthani dusk. I had time to ask all the questions I wanted, and she even changed her planned menu to show me kadhi (a chickpea flour and buttermilk gravy spiced with fenugreek). Tasting everything as we went along, we ate a full meal over the evening, talking and laughing about local history while we cooked. I’m now using this recipe on a regular basis at home, to great applause from the family.
Ingredients 1 cup chickpea flour (gram flour) 1/2 cup buttermilk 1 tablespoon ghee (clarified butter) 1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds 6 curry leaves Pinch asafoetida (this is very strong tasting, so start small) You can also add other flavorings, such as cumin seeds, chillies or turmeric powder Coriander leaves, chives or mint to garnish
Method
Mix the buttermilk and chickpea flour to form a medium-thick paste (like single cream) and set aside. Whisk if needed; you don’t want any lumps. You may find you need to add slightly more buttermilk or chickpea flour to get the consistency just right.
Put the ghee in a heavy-bottomed pan and heat, adding the fenugreek seeds, curry leaves and asafoetida. Fry until they pop and the scent rises. Add the flour and buttermilk mixture and stir until it thickens. Cook it
on a low heat for another 10-15 minutes. This is used as the basic gravy for a meal served with rice. Add cooked vegetables or fried pakoras to the sauce and garnish with coriander leaves, chives or mint.
Have you recreated a recipe we’ve featured in Audley Traveler? Or have you sampled a delicious local cuisine on your travels? We’d love to see images of your favorite food and drink experiences. Tag your Instagram and Twitter posts with #TheAudleyWay and @AudleyTavel.
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@JASONSCOTTPARK
@KATEFBROCK @STARSHARKS
11/07/2018 10:00
COMING SOON!
VISIT SPAIN & PORTUGAL THE AUDLEY WAY In July 2018, we’ll be unveiling our latest Audley product – custom trips to Spain and Portugal! Follow us on social media to stay up to date on the launch
Our Spain and Portugal specialists will connect you with local experts who know the people, restaurants, and experiences you won’t find in a guidebook. See what travel can be when you know the right people. 013_US_SpainAdvert_USA_SO.indd 13
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The Red One The forbidding walls of the Alhambra hide an opulent, intricate complex of palaces 14 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
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Into
IBERIA
Introducing Spain and Portugal The Iberian Peninsula happily embraces a sophisticated and diverse culture. Our specialists have explored Spain and Portugal in depth and suggest five of their most memorable experiences
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Spanish glories (clockwise from this) The coastal beauty of San Sebastián; tile work from Gaudí’s impressive Casa Vicens; local treats of San Sebastián; decorated streets of Barcelona; the glorious Alhambra
SPAIN
SPEND THE NIGHT IN THE ALHAMBRA
By Kevin Crotty With its arabesque arches, graceful columns and airy Generalife gardens, the Alhambra is the most opulent remnant of Moorish rule in Europe. It also attracts thousands of visitors each day, who come to marvel at the intricate detailing of the Patio de los Leones and the carved wooden ceilings of the Mexuar. I recently saw a quieter side of the Alhambra by spending a night inside the walls of the palace complex. A 14th-century Franciscan monastery, which was also the original resting place of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, has been turned into the Parador de Granada (paradors are historic buildings that have been converted into hotels). I woke to the gentle sound of fountains in the courtyard and enjoyed my breakfast while basking in the glow of morning sun reflected off the whitewashed walls. 16 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
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IBERIA
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: A direct flight from New York to Madrid or Barcelona is about 7.5 hours or 11 hours from Los Angeles with direct and indirect options available. When to go: You can visit Spain any time of the year but we highly recommend spring and autumn for the most comfortable temperatures. For more information and pricing please contact our Spain specialists on 855-593-2125
EXPLORE BARCELONA LIKE A LOCAL
EAT WITH A GASTRONOMIC SOCIETY IN SAN SEBASTIÁN
By Allan Palmer
By Geoff Gillman
Vila de Gràcia is a village-like neighborhood that usually doesn’t garner much attention. I love its shady plazas and lively cafes, as well as its abundance of tapas bars. Gràcia, as it’s known to locals, is also home to Gaudí’s Casa Vicens. The architect’s first big commission, it only opened to the public late last year. During a privately guided tour this spring, I was impressed by its meticulously restored elaborate brackets, organic ironwork and the brightly colored sawtooth-patterned tiles, which all hint at the direction his later work would take. My guide and I then spent the evening hopping from one tapas bar to the next, sampling small plates as we went. One of my favorites was the pimientos de padrón – tiny sweet green peppers that are blasted with a high heat until their skins are blackened and blistered, then served heaped on a plate.
San Sebastián is a small city with an outsized culinary reputation. Here, many belong to a txoko, a Basque gastronomic society where members gather to cook and share meals. Casual, informal and intensely private, this loose network of culinary clubs forms the backbone of the city’s social life. This has fostered an exceptional culinary calling culture, which explainsParis whyisthe city has one The Eiffel Tower has of the highest concentrations of Michelin loomed over Paris for stars per capita in the world. However, you over 125 years can only visit a txoko as an invited guest of a member – which is how I got a chance to visit one. Accompanied by a member of the club, I went to the market and specialty shops to pick up provisions, before returning to the club to watch the chef prepare a hearty lunch. Then, I sat down to enjoy a meal with locals, glimpsing a side of San Sebastián that is usually closed to visitors. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 17
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PORTUGAL DISCOVER THE MANY FACES OF LISBON By Talia Mazepa A guided tour of Lisbon offers a good introduction to not only the city but to Portugal in general, where the distinctive neighborhoods all reveal different facets of the country’s history and personality. I glimpsed hints of Moorish culture in the Alfama quarter and remnants of the 1755 Great Lisbon Earthquake in the ruins of Carmo Convent, and then marveled at the post-quake Pombaline architecture of Baixa. In Belém, I discovered where Henry the Navigator launched the Age of Discovery and then admired the excess of Jerónimos Monastery, a sumptuously flamboyant monument to the wealth garnered from Portugal’s colonies. In the afternoon, I took a bright yellow tram up one of the city’s seven hills to one of its many miradouros (viewpoints), where I admired the cityscape of cobbled
lanes, terracotta roofs and the winding Tagus River as the sun set. Then, in the warm twilight hours, Lisbon revealed yet another face. Art Nouveau kiosks transform into walk-up bars where you can get a glass of wine or gin and tonic as the public squares fill with an open-air party that lasts until dawn.
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IBERIA Portuguese perfection (clockwise from this) Lisbon’s glorious arch at the Praca do Comercio; Portugal’s iconic pastel da nata (egg tarts); the Douro Valley is famed for its port and terraced hills; the tram-lined streets of the capital
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: A direct flight from New York and other East Coast locations toRoman Lisbon is about roofs over Italy’s 7 hours or you canThe fly view indirect from fromacross Castel a range of regionalcapital airports Sant’Angelo; (left) the US. Piazza Navona; (bottom) taking a Vespa tour When to go: You can visit Portugal any time of the year but we highly recommend spring and autumn for the most comfortable temperatures. For more information and pricing please contact our Portugal specialists on 855-593-2469.
CRUISE THROUGH DOURO VALLEY WINE COUNTRY By Sarah Collins For more than 1,000 years, the steep slopes of the Douro River Valley have been terraced into carefully cultivated vineyards. Buttery sunlight bathes the vines, which grow from the dry, stony soil in undulating rows. This is where vintners grow the grapes for port, the fortified wine that’s become synonymous with Porto, the city at the mouth of the river. In fact, it’s one of Europe’s earliest designated wine regions, a stricture put in place to prevent cheap imitations from flooding the market. But I found more than just port here – Douro also produces full-bodied reds and crisp, minerally whites. UNESCO recognized the natural beauty and man-made splendor of the valley in 2001, prompting a blossoming of infrastructure for visitors. You can stay at a
number of the area’s traditional estates, called quintas, which usually offer both indulgent rooms and exceptional menus. For a particularly indulgent night, I suggest the Six Senses Douro Valley Hotel and Spa – the company’s first foray into Europe. A leisurely lunch cruise on a private yacht offers, I think, the best way to take in the sun-gilded hills and lazy curves of the river. I lingered over a meal of regional delicacies as the boat sailed past swooping hills and villages filled with brightly colored houses before docking at one of the area’s wineries for a personal tour and tasting. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 19
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Updates from your recent travels: Scotland, Indonesia, Burma (Myanmar) and Brazil
FORT WILLIAM, SCOTLAND By Dave Andrews Who wouldn’t want to delight their inner child and ride the Jacobite steam train across the rail viaduct pictured in Harry Potter? We traveled from Fort William to the Western seacoast, met new friends, and enjoyed fish and chips in the picturesque seaside village of Mallaig.
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GET INSPIRED
MOUNT BROMO, JAVA , INDONESIA By Tula Bowden It was magical to watch the sun rise and light the skies around the volcanoes. After such a surreal moment, we embarked on the drive to the Sea of Sands, and then approached the edge of Mount Bromo’s crater. Here, we climbed 200 steps to the rim of the bubbling volcano, all before heading back to our hotel in time for breakfast.
PYIN OO LWIN, BURMA (MYANMAR) By Alison Radevsky Walking into this backstreet shophouse near Pyin Oo Lwin is something we’d have been unlikely to do without our guide Aye-Aye. We ate Shan noodles, delivered with a smile by the owner, who helped readjust our daughter’s longyi dress, which she (along with the rest of us) was finding hard to manage.
RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL By Michael Henry This was taken by our superb guide Luana Seara at the summit of Sugarloaf Mountain. Over my right shoulder you can clearly see Copacabana Beach. My wife Rhiannon’s left shoulder hides the world-famous Christ the Redeemer statue. We loved Rio, and we’ve both said we will definitely return. The city has a magical vibe — plus excellent cocktails.
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READERS’ AWARDS 2018 We asked you to vote for your favorite travel destinations and experiences in our online poll. Here are your winners...
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READERS’ AWARDS
Best city: CAPE TOWN “Scenery, culture, cuisine, diversity,“ is how Audley traveler Peter Garratt sums up the reasons he loves South Africa’s coastal city. Sandwiched between the Atlantic Ocean, the Indian Ocean and Table Mountain, Cape Town attracts more visitors than any other place in Africa, with its natural setting, cosmopolitan culture and Mediterranean climate providing the appeal. From scaling Table Mountain, to visiting the historic Robben Island, there’s plenty to explore in this vibrant city. For a family experience, Audley specialist Hailey Landers recommends kayaking around the Cape Peninsula; guided by a local, you will have the opportunity to see penguins and, if traveling between July and December, you may even spot whales. As Audley traveler Jennifer Nicholls puts it, Cape Town is an “amazing city for exploring, [with] great food and wine.” From Cape Town, it’s a short trip to the rolling countryside of the Winelands. Here, you can spend a day admiring the Dutch architecture and valley views of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, before sampling the region’s produce at a wine estate. RUNNERS UP: Cuzco & Sydney AUDLEY TRAVELER | 23
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Best country to explore by rail: PERU You voted Peru as your favorite country to explore by rail because of its spectacular scenery, your interactions with the friendly on-board staff and the wide range of options available. Whether it’s the short trip to Machu Picchu, or a multi-day journey taking in the scenery of the Altiplano, a railway journey can seamlessly fit into a trip to Peru. Many of you specified the Belmond Andean Explorer, an Agatha Christie-esque sleeper train, as your favorite way to explore the country. “This option offers travel between Cuzco, Puno and Arequipa in comfort, sampling traditional Peruvian dishes as piano music fills the train car and you stare out across the Altiplano – a unique and unforgettable journey,” says Peru specialist Holly Kennedy. For a shorter rail journey, Audley traveler Julian Roberts recommends taking the Vistadome train to Machu Picchu: “Our one-and-ahalf-hour journey took us through spectacular scenery, lush vegetation and alongside the Urubamba River. It was good being able to see thought the large windows and the glass roof.” RUNNERS UP: India & Japan
Best country for a road trip: NEW ZEALAND Untouched landscapes, empty roads and excellent food stops – these are just some of the reasons you voted New Zealand your number one destination for a road trip. Audley traveler Steve Hasler praised New Zealand’s South Island for having “a new wonderful view around every corner“ and “very friendly and comfortable B&Bs with good food.” There are hundreds of road trip options, but New Zealand specialist Chris Wilson’s favorite is the drive from Blenheim to Kaikoura.
“The route begins in the winelands, from where you wind up the hills towards Kaikoura. In spring you can see beautiful blooming trees with the snow-capped Kaikoura Ranges in the background.” If you’re hoping to combine your road trip with some hiking, specialist Jessie Mooney recommends the route between Franz Josef and Queenstown, taking in the Haast Pass and Lake Matheson, as well as walking at the foot of Mount Cook (Aoraki). RUNNERS UP: South Africa & Australia
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READERS’ AWARDS Best historic site: THE TAJ MAHAL “I knew it would be beautiful but I was still surprised when I saw it,” says Erica Latham. “So much better than the photos can ever portray,” says Elaine Battison. It’s clear that no matter how many photos you’ve seen of the Taj Mahal, this elegant mausoleum is even more impressive in real life. India specialist Georgia Holmes recommends visiting the Taj at sunrise: “This is when the site is at its quietest and most beautiful in the soft early morning light.” For a unique view of the Taj, India specialist Chloë Musson suggests taking a walk through Kachpura village, led by a local guide who will offer insights into rural life. The walk ends at Metah Bagh Park, a littleknown spot across the river from the Taj offering spectacular sunset views. RUNNERS UP: Machu Picchu, Peru & Angkor Wat, Cambodia
Best destination explored by boat: THE GALAPAGOS It’s not just the wildlife that inspired your ardour for cruising the Galapagos; Ruth Ripman particularly enjoyed the “fabulous guides and very comfortable accommodation.” Whether you’re looking for a larger 100-passenger boat with multiple restaurants and plenty of on-board facilities, or a smaller 16-passenger ship with an exclusive feel and personalized service, there are plenty of
options in the Galapagos. With no land access to the islands’ beaches and bays, a Galapagos cruise offers the opportunity to visit pristine nature away from the crowds. Each island offers visitors unique wildlifespotting opportunities; you could spot red-footed boobies on Genovesa, or watch hundreds of sea lions line the shore of San Cristobal. Galapagos specialist Ella Thompson
recommends taking a trip to watch giant tortoises amble around at a breeding project at the Charles Darwin Research Station. For Audley traveler Walter Tersmette, the highlight was the daily routine: “14 days of eating, hiking with the birds, kayaking with the turtles, eating more, then watching the sunset.” RUNNERS UP: The Mekong River, Southeast Asia & Milford Sound, New Zealand AUDLEY TRAVELER | 25
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Best hiking destination: PERU
Best beach destination: COPACABANA, RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL You voted Copacabana as your favorite beach for the excellent views it offers of Rio de Janeiro. Audley traveler Michael Henry’s highlight was looking up at the iconic Sugar Loaf mountain, whereas traveler Amanda Li enjoyed “watching the sunset while sitting on the rocks.” Many of you felt that strolling or cycling along Copacabana Beach is one of the best ways to get a feel for Rio. Locals from the wealthiest quarters and the
favelas alike come here to relax, play volleyball or football, and surf. While there are plenty of accommodation options near the beach, there are a few standout properties. Brazil specialist Tom King suggests staying at the Hotel Emiliano for great beach service and amazing views from the rooftop pool. RUNNERS UP: Zanzibar, Tanzania & Khao Lak, Thailand
If you’re planning to hike to Machu Picchu, it’s not just the four-day Inca Trail that will get you there. In fact, many of you said that the single-day version of the hike was one of the best treks you’d ever done and, as Audley traveler Ruth Ripman put it, there is “a great sense of achievement when arriving at the Sun Gate” at the end of the hike. Another popular option is hiking the mountain of Huayna Picchu; Audley traveler Liz Mason enjoyed the “outstanding history, walking in the steps of the Incas [and the] unbelievable views of Machu Picchu from the top.” The Sacred Valley has many hiking options that cater to any level of fitness. If you like the idea of a multi-day hike, but don’t want to camp, then Peru specialist Chloe Dillon-Smith recommends trying the Lares Trek: “We work with some opulent lodges, so after a day of hiking over mountains and through villages, you can relax in comfort.” RUNNERS UP: New Zealand & Patagonia
Best wildlife-spotting destination: SOUTH AFRICA South Africa was voted your favorite wildlifespotting destination. Audley traveler Peter Garratt said it was his “best safari experience” and Charlotte Ziff describes her South African safari as “unbelievable”. Linda Norwell particularly enjoyed the opportunity to see the Big Five – Kruger National Park or Shamwari Game Reserve are two of the few places in Africa you are likely to spot them all. The lodges here offer excellent service and a chance to experience the bush in comfort. Audley traveler Jackie Colburn particularly enjoyed her stay at Shamwari Bayethe Lodge:
“The personal interactions and attention to detail were fantastic. We never expected to experience the wildlife as closely as we did.” However, it’s not only game you can spot. South Africa specialist Amelia Henderson recommends taking a sunrise meerkat excursion in Oudtshoorn to view these curious creatures. Or, if visiting between November and March, specialist Kirsty Downing suggests turtle tracking on the Elephant Coast, where you can view turtles laying eggs or hatchlings making their dash to the ocean. RUNNERS UP: Botswana & Ecuador
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READERS’ AWARDS
Where would you most like to go next? NEW ZEALAND When it comes to why you want to go to New Zealand, the answer is simple: the scenery. From Milford Sound’s arrowheaded peaks, to stratovolcanoes rising above the plains, and ice fields careering down almost to the edge of the Tasman Sea, there is a lot packed into this small country. Whether you’re a first-timer or a repeat visitor, there’s plenty to keep you occupied; Audley traveler Les Brett comments: “Our last trip there was so good, we want to go back.” For spectacular views, New Zealand specialist Rupert SanfordScutt suggests visiting Lake Rotorua: “Here you can rent a catamaran boat to explore the lake. It’s a perfect opportunity to try some fishing, kayaking or paddle boarding. From here, you can even charter a helicopter to fly over an active volcano.” RUNNERS UP: Japan & Namibia
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HEAD TO HEAD
TASMANIA vs K HEAD TO HEAD
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Australia’s Tasmania and Kangaroo Island are home to
ustralia is rich with wildlife-spotting opportunities, and the expansive islands of Tasmania and Kangaroo Island, off the southern coast, are two of the best. While uniquely different, we know that not everyone has time to include both on their travels, so specialists Alice and Jenna have weighed in with their preferred choice…
TASMANIA any traveler. For wildlife lovers, Tasmania By Alice Ball, Australia specialist offers pademelons, wallabies, wombats, Tasmania is worlds away from platypus and quolls, and it’s the only the rest of mainland Australia, place home to the elusive Tasmanian devil. and not just in terms of You could spend days searching for the geography – although it does sit rarer species on the mainland, yet on my last isolated in the Southern Ocean some 150 trip to Tassie, I simply headed to a car park in miles south of the mainland. On arrival, Cradle Mountain National Park at sunset. you’re instantly hit by the dramatic There, I saw about six wombats snuffling change in landscape, swapping away on their evening graze. outback and cosmopolitan For a truly Tasmanian cities for lush land, blue wildlife experience, waters and craggy I recommend a two-day “Tasmania is great mountains. With over 50% tour with Craig, an for a self-drive trip of the island made up of adventure guide more – beautiful scenery with very little traffic.” protected national parks, commonly referred to as Terry Thomas, Tasmania is a haven of ‘Bushie’. Craig and his son Audley traveler unspoiled wilderness. live and breathe off-the‘Tassie’, as it’s fondly beaten-track adventures. known, has an adventure to suit Bushie’s ethos is to sit back in
TOP TIP
the bush and let the wildlife come to him, as he spots elusive creatures such as tiger quoll or ringtail possum. For walkers, Tasmania has over 1,700 miles of managed walking tracks and over 800 separate walks through national parks. Some of the best walking can be done on one of the ‘Great Walks’ of Tasmania, which combine guided multi-day wild walks with luxurious camping and well-prepared local produce in some remote settings. Those seeking local culture, art and history should feel at home in the city of Hobart, the ideal place to start to any trip to Tasmania. Be sure to stay over a weekend to make the most of the local festivities. Kick off your Friday night with a visit to Rektango, a fun-filled two hours where local bands play live music, held throughout the year. Saturday is market day, when an entire street comes to life with local artists, crafts, fresh produce and souvenirs. To finish your weekend, enjoy a trip to MONA Art Gallery, built into a cliff face, the gallery is home to unique installations. But no matter when you visit, there’s always something to do. Summer in Tasmania offers festivals and markets, spring has blooming gardens, autumn boasts the best walking and wildlife opportunities, and come winter, snow-capped mountains are the lure. It really is a land for all seasons.
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KANGAROO ISLAND a wide variety of indigenous wildlife – but which will you prefer? KANGAROO ISLAND
By Jenna Sweig, Australia specialist Kangaroo Island will forever be memorable to me for one simple reason: the wildlife. You really cannot beat the up-close-and-personal encounters you’ll have on Kangaroo Island, known locally as ‘KI.’ Once there, you’ll realize that it’s aptly titled, as you’d have to try extremely hard here not to see a kangaroo. Once a part of mainland Australia, KI broke away during the last ice age, which isolated certain animals and created subspecies that you cannot find anywhere else in the world, such as the Kangaroo Island kangaroo and the glossy black cockatoo. You also won’t be hard-pressed to spot one of Australia’s most famous furry creatures, the koala. While many Australians go their entire lives without seeing one in the wild, koalas are actually overpopulated on KI, making your chances of seeing these shy animals very likely. Even though it was fascinating observing koalas and kangaroos in their natural environment, I ’d have to say my favorite wildlife encounter on the island was definitely at Seal Bay. The playful sea lions on the beach truly do act like dogs of the sea; their curious demeanour instantly won me over.
my trip, I was lucky enough to While the wildlife is what see a couple of echidnas on draws most travelers to the side of the road. I would Kangaroo Island, “Kangaroo Island has fantastic guides who have never spotted them there’s definitely helped me see a variety without my local guide; something to be said of birds and wildlife in it’s also extremely rare to about the diversity of the their natural habitat.” see them in pairs. landscape. You’ll find Lyn Hind, Since the island is so red dirt roads reminiscent Audley traveler undeveloped, places to eat of the Australian Outback, outside of the main town are rugged coastline along the few and far between, but tours can Southern Ocean and rolling take in gourmet dining options, with locally green farmland pastures. Due to the fact sourced food prepared for you right in the that the majority of the island is only wilderness. Dining al fresco on picnic tables accessible by dirt roads, I would suggest covered with white table cloths offers a mix using a guide to make the most of your of authenticity with just a touch of luxury. experience on KI. KI has a variety of accommodation to suit Knowledgeable guides provide the best every traveler. There’s an opulent lodge oportunities to spot local wildlife. During with sweeping views of the Southern Ocean – my pick for honeymooners. There are quaint and welcoming B&Bs as well as family-friendly, great-value lodging options. You can even stay on a working farm if you want to experience authentic local culture.
YOUR TIP
Get me there: A 17-day tailor-made self-drive trip taking in the highlights of both Kangaroo Island and Tasmania starts from $6,800pp. For more information, contact Alice, Jenna or one of our Australia specialists on 1-844-250-3450.
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Next stop… Beijing’s Great Wall is just one of many sights opened up by China’s growing rail network
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CHINA IN MY POCKET
A growing high-speed train network is making the Middle Kingdom easier to explore than ever WORDS BY STEPHANIE BUCKLAND, CHINA SPECIALIST
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hina’s scale means that a degree of internal travel is non-negotiable if you’re keen to see several places in the same trip. Until recently, this meant taking a number of internal flights. But that’s no longer the case, for the Middle Kingdom has been quietly creating what is now the world’s most extensive high-speed rail network. Since 2016, more and more routes have opened up, connecting major cities and revolutionizing domestic travel. This huge destination is now remarkably easy to manage. Now, it’s possible to travel between many of China’s major cities modern buildings, and your guide will (such as Shanghai, Beijing, Xian and explain clearly where you need to board and Chengdu) without ever setting foot in when (they’ll also show you how to an airport. locate this information on your Train travel in China is a ticket). Although China’s breeze: stations are vast, trains are comfortable and “Taking the bullet train from Beijing to Xian and Looking ahead the Maglev in Shanghai The skyline of are two experiences Shanghai: ‘the China I would recommend.” of tomorrow’, as one Sanjay Amin, guide described it Audley traveler
YOUR TIP
Speedy service A bullet train waits at the platform at Xian railway station
easy to manage – even for non-Mandarinspeakers – you’ll still feel like a bit of a pioneer. Your traveling companions will be mostly domestic travelers and commuters, so expect a few friendly glances and expressions of pleasant surprise.
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YOUR TIP “A great experience in Beijing is eating Peking duck and watching a kung fu show.” Liz Mason, Audley traveler
Guarding the gate A bronze lion in front of the Hall of Supreme Harmony in Beijing’s Forbidden City
WHERE TO GO IN CHINA… BY TRAIN SHANGHAI Start your journey ‘back to front’ by starting in Shanghai and circling in from the coast. This is ‘the China of tomorrow’, according to my guide Leo. The city’s headline attraction is the Bund, an elevated riverside promenade fronted by a motley collection of neoclassical and Art Deco British colonial buildings. It’s best in the early evening, when you’ll see loved-up couples posing for a pre-wedding photoshoot (a tradition for modern young Chinese people) against the Pudong skyline. Across the river, this spiky assortment of modernist high-rises illuminates as night falls in a multi-colored light show. The great jeweled orb of the Oriental Pearl Tower contrasts with the soaring futuristic skyscraper of the newly opened Shanghai Tower. Observe it all from a rooftop bar, such as my favorite, Hyatt at the Bund. But Shanghai is not all about architectural exuberance. Take a tour around Yu Gardens, a restored Ming dynasty walled retreat replete with rockeries, koi ponds and little tucked-away pagodas. For an insight into China’s more recent history,
lose yourself in the Shanghai Propaganda Poster Museum, an out-of-the-way archive of surreal, Soviet-style art and disquieting political messaging that was fed to the masses in Mao’s heyday. One activity I’d heartily recommend is a guided bicycle tour around the city’s French Concession district. It’s a superb way of delving into the Shanghai that few visitors ever really see. Think warrens of traditional shikumen stonegate houses and the backstreets of the old town, with their lines of flapping washing, small street markets and residents nonchalantly sitting outside in their pajamas, chatting to their neighbours or playing chess. You can also nip into one of Shanghai’s manicured grassy parks, where people gather to practise t’ai chi, water calligraphy and folk dancing – don’t be surprised if you’re invited to join in. Then it’s time to head to the station. Due to the ever-increasing volume of domestic visitors, Shanghai-to-Beijing trains have had their speed limits lifted to 220 miles per hour, meaning they now make the journey in four-and-a half to six hours as opposed to 13. Alternatively, you could catch the train to Huangshan (a four-hour journey from Shanghai), a dizzyingly sheer granite peak with temples at its summit and (on clear days) far-reaching views over the surrounding mountainscapes. Finish by
descending to explore some of the wellpreserved, centuries-old merchant villages, such as Huizhou.
BEIJING There’s so much in Beijing that demands your attention. You’ll want to take in the gilded, Russian-doll-like palace complex of the Forbidden City, the yawning space of Tiananmen Square where Chinese dynastic architecture meets Soviet grandeur, and the hushed halls and altars of the Ming-period Temple of Heaven. However, beyond the grand sights there are many other experiences that will give you a sense of the city and its people. I always urge visitors to take a private cooking class in the hutongs (low-rise grids of streets with traditional courtyard housing); wandering these ancient alleyways gives you a real sense of old-world Beijing. My favorite cooking class, by far, takes place in the Jiang Fa hutong. Carlyle – an enterprising young Beijinger with an infectious enthusiasm for Chinese cuisine – will talk you through five classic dishes. The next day, escape the city and drive for two hours to reach a little-trodden section of the Great Wall, Jinshangling. Arrive early and you might just find you have the entire AUDLEY TRAVELER | 33
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CHINA
LIFE ON BOARD CHINA’S TRAINS
Army maneuvers Xian’s Terracotta Army – created to guard China’s first emperor in the afterlife – was only found in the mid-1970s
YOUR TIP
“Seeing the Terracotta Warriors in Xian is a once-in-a-lifetime experience to tick off your bucket list.” Hilary Eccles, pathway to yourself. Looking a living, pulsating city in Audley traveler ahead, you’ll see the wall its own right. scampering over the crags and folds As night falls, I always make of the pine-studded mountains and a beeline for the Muslim Quarter, where the disappearing into the haze. You can walk streets come alive with food stalls and along it for miles. vendors hawking their wares. You’ll pass From Beijing, take the high-speed train everything from steaming piles of goats’ directly to Xian (a four-hour journey – it trotters to cold noodles in sesame sauce used to be 16), potentially stopping off to (a northern Chinese speciality), to trays see one of China’s best-preserved walled of just-out-of-the-oven persimmon cities, Pingyao. cakes stuffed with crumbly walnuts. My top eat: roujiamao – a pita bread-like bun crammed with succulent and fatty fried pork or beef.
XIAN
Xian is reminiscent of old China (give or take the odd Starbucks and shopping mall), its center a neat rectangle girded by 12th-century Ming-era ramparts that you can circumnavigate on foot or by bicycle. It’s a place that’s mostly associated with Emperor Qin Shi Huang’s famed funerary objects, the Terracotta Warriors, and they’re immensely rewarding to see in person. Your guide will expertly lead you around the vast pits containing these life-size brown clay models, helping you find a quiet spot to stand and admire them away from the crowds. But there’s much more to Xian than the Terracotta Army; it’s
China sometimes arouses images of jostling crowds, but this isn’t the case: you’ll find that travel on board the high-speed trains is a sedate affair. Seats partially recline and give you plenty of leg room. The toilets are clean, Western-style facilities, and there’s a dining car and coffee shop selling snacks and bentobox-style meals (you can, with a little Mandarin, also order hot meals at your seat). Best of all (for an avid tea drinker like me), you’ll find boiling water dispensers located at the end of every carriage. Make like your fellow passengers and bring a reusable travel mug with you. Place green tea leaves in the bottom, and you can simply keep topping up your drink whenever you feel like it.
If you’re intrigued to try everyday Chinese cooking in all its many guises, Xian is a good place to try your hand. In a community just outside the city center, you can visit a family for lunch and experience famed Chinese hospitality firsthand. As your hosts ply you with plate after plate (including a range of delicious nibbles and exquisitely cooked rice and noodle dishes), your guide-cum-interpreter will then explain to you all about Chinese home-cooking traditions. Your hosts may even treat you to a quick dumpling-making lesson while you’re there.
Spicy street food Spicy noodles and lamb chuan’r (kebabs) are typical of the cuisine of Xian’s Muslim quarter
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For a real beyond-thefood tour. On this evening walking guidebook adventure, tour, you’ll take a peripatetic clamber into an old approach to dining, military-style 4x4 with a stopping at various different “My favorite hiking private guide for a tour eateries to sample experience was in the of the rural plateau traditionally piquant Dragon’s Back Bone rice surrounding Xian. Sichuan dishes. Just terraces of Guangxi.” You’ll drive through watch out for the infamously Barbara Clarke, Audley traveler farming villages hot ‘numbing peppers’. emblazoned with Outside of food, tea and an propaganda murals and easy-going ambiance, Chengdu’s meet a talented paper-cutter claim to fame is its Giant Panda and armorer, both of whom will show you Breeding Research Base located 11 miles their craftsmanship. north of the city center. Arrive as it opens From Xian, it takes three to four-and-afor your best chance of witnessing these half hours on the train to reach Chengdu. famously somnolent creatures tucking into breakfast. Those with extra time can continue on the train to Chongqing, China’s most populous city and an industrial powerhouse. Try its If Xian feels more relaxed than the great signature spicy hotpot dish before boarding metropolises of Shanghai and Beijing, then a three-day cruise of the Yangtze River to Chengdu is positively mellow. It’s a leafy, experience little-accessed pagodas and the park-filled city brimming with traditional fjord-like scenery of the Three Gorges. teahouses where the elderly, students and Alternatively, carry on by train to visitors alike all shoot the breeze for hours Guizhou Province to explore off-theover bottomless cups of pu’er tea. beaten-path villages that are home to some Chengdu also has a lively food scene, of China’s 56 minorities, each with their which is best explored on a Lost Plate own unique style of dress and customs.
YOUR TIP
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Direct flights from California to Beijing and Shanghai take around 15 hours. When to go: Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to October) see China at its mildest, weather-wise. The summer can be too hot, and temperatures often drop dramatically during winter. Get me there: A 14-day tailor-made trip to China, including Shanghai, Beijing, Xi’an, Chengdu and all train travel, starts from $5,500pp. For more information, please contact Stephanie or one of our China specialists on 1-855-834-8220.
Illustration: Scott Jessop
CHENGDU
Meeting an icon Chengdu is famed for its informative panda breeding center
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CHINA: YOUR STORY
‘I HAD DINNER WITH THE LOCALS, HIKED TIGER LEAPING GORGE AND TRIED BAMBOO RAFTING IN YANGSHUO’ Alan Hewison traveled to southern China with Audley
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hina has some of the friendliest people that I have ever come across. Particularly in Shanghai, where I began my trip. If they hear you talk in English, people will come up to you and want to join in the conversation. Elsewhere, I was often the only western visitor in some of the off-the-beatentrack destinations I visited. It was quite a novel experience to have people asking to take my photograph. One of my favorite places that I stayed in was Zhaoxing, a Dong minority village. They have their own traditional dress and language, and it used to be quite secluded. There was entertainment in the morning and the evening, the people were very friendly, and I found the traditional wooden buildings really interesting; the drum towers, which look a little bit like pagodas, tend to be meeting places for the older men who congregate around an open fire pit. They always made space for me to come and sit.
MEETING THE MIAO The most unusual experience that I had while traveling in the south of China was in the Miao villages just outside Kalli, in southeastern Guizhou. I had dinner with a local couple there and we went out to their rice field to catch fish in an open-bottomed basket; they wore waders to catch them. They didn’t speak any English, and only see westerners twice a year. After dinner, we visited the local silversmith to have a look around his workshop and the first thing he did was invite us in for dinner. Everyone was very hospitable. All the women in the area wear silver as it’s said to ward off evil spirits; at religious ceremonies the women are often decked out in silver ornaments and headdresses. It’s quite a commonplace material for people here as they have some big silver mines. One of my standout experiences came in another of the Miao villages that I visited. There
was a funeral procession taking place, and the women were wearing ceremonial costumes while musicians played traditional bamboo reed instruments. They laid the coffin down outside the village gates and gathered around it. My guide told me that some people see it as a sad occasion, while others view it as a cause for celebration because the deceased has gone to meet their ancestors.
TAMING THE TIGER As well as experiencing some of southern China’s villages and culture, there were plenty of walking opportunities.I hiked the Tiger Leaping Gorge, overlooking the Jinsha River in Yunnan province, one of the deepest gorges in the world. There were very steep sections on the first day, and then I spent four hours walking downhill on the second day – it was great exercise. Some of the leaves were turning when I was there in March and the water was very blue, which is typical for that time of year. After the dry winter period, the heavy rain comes and washes the mud down the ravine, giving the water a silty color. I was also able to try some bamboo rafting in Yangshuo. It was very gentle, as we drifted down a series of dams that had been dropped into the river. There were two seats, for my guide and I, and someone driving the raft
with a pole behind. I found that I needed to pick my feet up all the time, otherwise I would have got soaked. I passed a few villages and large, looming karst mountains that came in lots of unusual shapes and sizes. Another of the interesting experiences that I had in Yangshuo was a cookery class. I am not much of a cook, but I had tuition from a local chef and then ate what we had cooked for dinner – we cooked Yangshuo beer fish, chicken with cashew nuts and green vegetables with garlic. The meal was delicious. Something that did surprise me were the fields of rapeseed – they’re a huge attraction. When I stayed at the Linden Center in Xizhou, there was a rapeseed field behind the hotel and newlyweds went out there for wedding photographs. Sometimes there were four couples in the field at one time. I really enjoyed traveling through southern China. The people were very friendly and the accommodation I stayed in was comfortable and had all the amenities I needed. In particular, the Bivou in Lijiang was a nicely designed boutique hotel, while others I stayed in felt very authentically Chinese. I enjoyed my trip to China so much that I’ve booked another trip with Audley to explore more areas in the region in 2019.
Embracing China Chongsheng Temple in Dali; (right) Alan learns about ancient traditions in Zhaoxing
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TOP 6 FOOD & DRINK EXPERIENCES From sampling wine in South Africa to making ceviche in Lima, you share your favorite food and drink experiences
1Pastry making, France
2 Kaiseki dinner, Kyoto, Japan 3 The Winelands, South Africa By Michael Missios It is rather hard to describe the sensual experience of a Japanese Kaiseki dinner, combining the ambience, presentation and taste of this multi-course, traditional feast. We had the pleasure of experiencing such a fabulous meal at the cozy but elegant Kamikura restaurant in Kyoto last year. All ten seats at the restaurant are in front of a counter where every course – we had 14 – is meticulously prepared by the chef, perfectly balancing the tastes of the freshest local ingredients for you. Each course is like a piece of art, so beautiful that you feel guilty disturbing it with your chopsticks.
By Jennifer Nicholls Arriving in Franschhoek in the Winelands is like stepping back in time, with its vibrantly painted houses and beautiful landscaping. La Motte winery was my absolute favorite place for lunch. It’s lovely to wander around; in fact, we enjoyed it so much that we returned for dinner and sampled the tasting menu with wine parings. We also had a lovely lunch at the Mont Rochelle winery in a very relaxed environment. Then, at the Waterford Estate, just outside Stellenbosch, we indulged in a wine and chocolate tasting session – it was interesting to see how different the wine tasted before and after the chocolate.
4 Hoi An, Vietnam
5 Lima food market, Peru
6 Saigon after dark, Vietnam
By Christina Mackford I have long been a fan of French cuisine, but especially of French pastries – understandably so! The cooking class that we enjoyed in Paris proved to be both an essential way to understand Parisian culture and food as well as a delicious way to spend the day. We worked alongside charismatic chef Didier Lavry making an array of pastries, including pain-auchocolat, croissants and the parisse baguettes, while we listened to his engaging stories about his career and his recipes. Hearing about the chef’s passion for his city and his profession was incredibly inspiring.
By Walter Tersmette We’ve been lucky to have had many great food experiences while on our travels, but none have been better than in Hoi An at Ms Vy’s Market Restaurant. The experience exceeded our expectations in every way. Our day started with a fun boat ride to the central market for a lesson on local herbs, spices and produce. Back in the restaurant, we then had a chance to amble from one food station to another, learning about (and also getting to taste) an amazing array of street foods. Our cooking class, led by a terrific chef, gave us a chance to prepare a variety of tasty dishes.
By Sarah Stephens This wasn’t just a food tour: it was a whole Peruvian culinary and cultural experience. We learned about Peruvian history and politics while exploring the Barranco district, visited hidden cafes, and sampled freshly roasted coffee and exotic smoothies. The most fun part was the food market, where we met with local traders and tried the vibrantly colored fruit and vegetables. We then donned our aprons to make ceviche (I’d never tasted fish so fresh!) and the iconic pisco sour. Finally, we gorged on Peru’s fine fusion cuisine at the scenic restaurant located at the pre-Inca ruins of the Huaca Pucllana.
By Steve Drinkwater ‘Saigon After Dark’ is an understated description of the highlight of our trip. It was a night of food and entertainment with a twist – we traveled on the back of a Vespa. We were picked up at dusk by our guide Lora, and, after nervously donning our helmets, we launched into rush hour. The first stop was a roadside bar for drinks and street food, then more scootering to a traditional pancake house. By this time the traffic had thinned, so we toured at a somewhat faster pace to a jazz cafe, where we had coffee and listened to acoustic music. Then it was a final journey round the streets back to our hotel just before midnight. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 39
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Plain views Staying at Maasai Lodge brings you closer to Tanzania’s scenery
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WILD TANZANIA
Home to vast protected areas, this East African country offers plenty of chances for one-on-one encounters with the locals and wildlife alike… WORDS BY MARK GILLIES, TANZANIA SPECIALIST
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TANZANIA
“I turn around and not ten feet away from me is a young bull elephant, looking us over absent-mindedly while searching the ground intently for pine nuts and fruit with his trunk.”
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he 12-seater Cessna Grand Caravan bucks in the hot African sky as we make our way from the bustling metropolis of Dar es Salaam to the Selous. We spend an hour above the clouds before descending quickly. What strikes me first is the vastness: seemingly endless expanses of acacia trees, wide snaking rivers and golden savannah. The Selous Game Reserve is one of the largest protected areas in Africa, second only to Namibia’s Mudumu National Park, and the descent via light aircraft is one of the most captivating parts of a safari here. Below us, a tower of giraffe rambles in slow motion across the rain-washed plains and hippo laze in the shallows. As we draw closer to the ground, the landscape blurs with heat and we finally glide parallel to the airstrip. Our suave pilot turns around in his aviator sunglasses: “This is Siwandu. Welcome to the Selous.” Even before I step out of the plane, I know it’ll be love at first sight. I hop out and take my first steps onto a sandy runway surrounded by naked baobab and green acacia trees, their branches shaking violently with vervet monkeys. This is the Selous: wild, remote, the same way it has been for hundreds of years. My guide, Leverd, comes running over to grab my bag and hands me a cool towel to wipe my face. Then we’re off, cruising over bumpy paths beside lush doum palm forests and
along the banks of Lake Tagalala. palms frame views of the lake, and We stop to watch a black heron the place has a languid, tropical feeding in the shallows, systemically atmosphere unlike any camp I’ve crouching low and opening its wings been to before. to create an umbrella shape around I take a seat closest to the lake, ask its head. Leverd explains that it’s for a cold Kilimanjaro lager and chat called canopy feeding – the heron to the other guests. One couple have casts a shadow over the water, just arrived from their home in the which attracts fish. Canadian subarctic, over a 40-hour Entertained by the bird, we sit for journey away, and can barely a few moments enjoying views believe their surroundings. Then, across the lake, the surface dotted suddenly, Shaun – an amiable South with smooth dead trees that remind African who runs the camp – says in me of inverted lightning a soft, no-nonsense voice, strikes. Leverd tells me “Now, no quick the different names movements.” of the trees and I turn around and “We’ve been to Tanzania birds we can see not three meters several times – we’ve (the Selous is away from me is seen cheetah, lion and the excellent for a young bull Great Migration. It’s our birdwatching) recommended safari spot!” elephant, looking Adrian Marsh, and we listen to the us over absentAudley traveler hauntingly beautiful mindedly while cry of a fish eagle as it searching the ground settles on one of the intently for pine nuts and protruding trees. We then head fruit with his trunk. I’m so close for Lake Manze Camp, where I’m that I can see his amber eyes and to spend the next three nights. long eyelashes. Despite only being an adolescent, he’s huge. MAKING CAMP “It’s okay, he comes by here A bush camp on the banks of Lake often. He likes the fruit on the Manze, this property is the epitome ground,” Shaun reassures us. of a simple life spent in the open air, We sit in awed silence until the a camp that could be packed up in a great beast ambles away towards the day and leave no footprint behind. lake for an afternoon drink. The thatched main area has tables, sofas and chairs set right in the sand. KEEPING BUSY The tented rooms are raised up One of the major draws of the Selous slightly on earthen mounds for me is the variety of activities you overlooking the lake. can do. I head off on game drives, There are no frills here, but it’s boat safaris and walking safaris, very comfortable and its proximity spotting big game while barely to nature is difficult to match. Leafy encountering another vehicle.
YOUR TIP
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a. A Masai giraffe slakes its thirst on the waters of Selous Game Reserve b. White-fronted bee-eaters perch near their nesting holes in a riverbank of the Rufiji River c. A male greater kudu antelope keeps an eye out for predators d. Lake Manze and the Rufiji River are home to large herds of hippo e. An elephant feeds on the lush grass of the reserve f. A brightly colored crested barbet rests in a tree g. An old male Cape buffalo stands stoically h. A stork sits on the banks of the Rufiji River i. A lioness stalks an impala antelope
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TANZANIA
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a. The Maasai people inhabit the lands bordering Kenya and Tanzania b. A young Maasai marrior (moran) with his flock on the Serengeti Plains c. A male lion shows off his mane d. The inside of one of the bungalows at the Maasai Lodge e. Handmade beaded jewelry is part of the Maasai’s traditional dress f. Views of the area around the Maasai Lodge g. An elephant wanders the Ngorongoro Crater h. The swimming pool at the Maasai Lodge i. A Maasai warrior surveys his land
I drop my bag and head outside to But, sadly, on the third morning watch Maasai warriors partake in I have to leave, so I say a heartfelt thank you to Leverd and board a spear-throwing competition. a plane for my next stop: Arusha. With infectious joy, they sing, Soon, I’m being driven to Maasai dance, laugh and scream at each Lodge, a three-hour trip by road. other’s attempts to hit the target, Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s tallest a rolled-up bale of grass hung in a peak, hoves into view, its snow tree. To me, the Maasai seem to be glittering in the sun. Long ago, constantly celebrating life. eruptions from ‘the roof of Africa’ That afternoon, a Maasai called fertilized the wide savannah plains. Kiserian (meaning ‘the peaceful The lodge lies flanked by one’) takes me on a nature walk Kilimanjaro and its younger through the foothills and I start to brother, Mount Meru. The learn practical insights into his scattering of traditional round lifestyle. We dig out roots that store mud-and-thatch huts dots the water in case of thirst, stop to plains and blends perfectly inspect tracks in the dirt into the landscape. We and cut sticks from pull up and are Salvadora trees to welcomed warmly make toothpicks. “The Ruaha is a wonderful by the Maasai who We walk by wild reserve, especially for a run the lodge. zebra and through walking safari because of Men and women herds of cattle its climate, wildlife and dressed in all the trailed by knowledgeable guides.” colors of the shepherds. The John Park, Audley rainbow sing their Maasai live in traveler greeting, and the harmony with nature, lodge manager, a noble and we spend time really warrior with intricate taking in our surroundings, beading draped around his head making note of what’s around and and chest, offers me a large horn what to stay clear of. filled with a dark liquid. I’m relieved to find it’s not the animal LEARNING THE ROPES blood that the Maasai drink After a few hours, I return to the during special occasions but lodge feeling refreshed, so much so a vegetable substitute. that I’m willing to try a portion of I’m led to my clay-walled hut and barbecued goat. It’s not my am amazed. Unlike a traditional favorite, but the meat is tender Maasai building, this has windows and juicy, and not a single part of and plenty of natural light, furniture the animal goes to waste. made of local wood, beaded Relaxing by the fire, I chat with dreamcatchers, embroidered animal a few Maasai, who tell me about skins and woven rugs. the struggles they face in balancing
TOP TIP
the tensions between their traditions and the pressures of modernity. It’s an interesting conversation that never turns somber but stays matter-of-fact, and we all learn a little bit from each other. This is what makes Maasai Lodge special – no one is here for show. The lodge provides an authentic insight into Maasai culture as well as somewhere to hit the pause button for a few days. It is part of Austrian-registered NGO Africa Amini Alama’s efforts to help Tanzania’s Maasai communities benefit from foreign visitors. All of the staff are from local villages, and profits from each guest’s stay are fed back into the local communities. I ended my time in Tanzania watching Maasai women sing and dance, the sun setting in a blaze of reds, oranges and pinks behind them.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS: Flight information: Flight time from New York City to Dar es Salaam is around 16 hours direct. When to go: February is green season in the Sealous— the park is lush and it’s the best time to see wild dog. Get me there: A six-night tailor-made trip to Tanzania, including accommodation, meals, activities and international flights, starts from £3,115pp. For more information, please contact Mark or one of our other Tanzania specialists on 01993 838 545. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 45
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TANZANIA: YOUR STORY
‘EVERY FEW MINUTES WE’D ENCOUNTER GIRAFFE, ELEPHANT OR WARTHOG – WE SAT IN OUR VEHICLE A FEW FEET FROM A CHEETAH AND HER FOUR CUBS’ Nicola & John Park walk on the wild side in Tanzania
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his was our first safari adventure and we chose Tanzania for its variety of landscapes and habitats. We started at Lake Manyara and the extraordinary Ngorongoro Crater, where numerous wildlife sightings are guaranteed, but often in the presence of other visitors. For the second phase of our trip, we flew south in a tiny plane from Lake Manyara to Ruaha, the largest national park in Tanzania, arriving in late January at the end of the low season. The landscape was startlingly different, lush and green at this time of year, with distinctive baobab trees dotted among acacia bush. We were the only guests at tented Kigelia Camp, which dedicated itself to imprinting the lightest possible footprint on its environment. The staff made it clear that nothing could be too much trouble, the food was excellent and we had a wonderful tent with a huge comfy bed, separate bathroom area with jugs of river water for the wash basin, plus the outdoor ‘bucket’ shower. A balcony outside our tent overlooked the river, just feet away, where elephant came to drink. Hyena footprints dotted the sand in the mornings; the camp was literally in the bush.
Tanzania times With a little help from their guides (bottom), the Parks saw an huge amount of wildlife in their time in Ruaha, including cheetah (left) and elephant (right)
Our safari guide Eli Sante was fantastic and seemed able to identify anything and everything. The wildlife was prolific: every few minutes we’d encounter a dozen giraffe peering at us over bushes; further on, elephant families crossed the road ahead of us, the babies suckling as they toddled forwards; a family of warthogs would trot by, keeping a careful eye on us; a ‘business’ of banded mongoose would scurry along, stopping to sit upright and watch us like meerkats; and tiny dik-diks crouched motionless in their dens, but close enough for us to see their whiffly noses and large round eyes. Once, we sat in our vehicle for an hour, no other visitor within sight, just a few metres from a mother cheetah and her four cubs. In three days we passed perhaps six other vehicles.
SUPER SAFARI On our second day we had just left camp when Eli spotted a huge lioness sitting a couple of feet from the roadside – what a start to the day. Later, we walked accompanied by two rangers, heading in the direction of elephant that they had spotted from the top of a hill. The terrain was quite difficult, with thornbushes and muddy ascents and descents, crossing ditches and riverbeds, following elephant paths which prevailed for much of
the walk. The rangers checked paths before entering them, not wanting to come across animals unexpectedly. After 20 to 30 minutes we spotted a sole young male elephant; we stayed carefully out of range, about 100 feet away, watching him. After a few minutes he began to flap his ears and wave his trunk, showing that he had smelt us, and he turned away. We met a small group further along and approached cautiously; four elephant – one being a baby – were ripping off branches and foliage and feeding on the other side of a dry riverbed. We watched them disappear up the opposite bank via a steep elephant path. Further along we realized we were being watched by a group of giraffe, who kept their distance but followed us for some time, their gaze intently focused on us. There were perhaps 20 of them – dignified, extraordinarily tall, beautiful. It was just us and them in an empty landscape. From Ruaha we flew to the Selous Game Reserve, which was different again but equally untouched and unvisited. It was a huge privilege to visit such areas, which seem so much more the terrain of their wildlife than their visitors – we had found the untouched African bush we had hoped to see.
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In conversation with...
DAVID MOORE
David Moore has been on a ten-month round-the-world trip with Audley, from Peru to Japan, and now he’s writing about his epic adventure in his first book… What kickstarted the idea for your adventure? Neither my wife Helene nor I had backpacked when we were younger, but two years ago we decided that, while we’ve still got our health, we should do it. Helene bought the biggest map she could find, and each of us marked it up with pink and blue pins of where we’d like to go. After four weeks, we’d worked out a route, but when we thought about how to make it work, we quickly realised that the task was incredibly daunting. That’s when we found Audley. You visited so many destinations on your trip – where stood out? The obvious one is Easter Island. Everybody knows what the Moai statues look like, but to actually spend three or four days with a local was extraordinary. Tito, our guide, was absolutely
brilliant and told us how his family and ancestors had been there for hundreds of years. He talked us through the story of the Moai and why there are 900 of them dotted around the island, why they were made and how they were moved. It was those sorts of stories that were underneath the surface of what we knew about Easter Island. You spent a lot of time in South America. What else caught your eye there? We loved Peru and, again, our guide was fantastic. Over the course of four days, the guide told us the story of the Inca and the emperor Pachacutec, and the story of Machu Picchu. Nothing prepares you for that first sight of the citadel, when you walk up and the plateau opens in front of you. It was quite an emotional moment, actually. It was incredibly calm and serene, and
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INTERVIEW All over the world David and Helene experienced some of the greatest travel icons on the planet
I found it extraordinary – the whole place. We visited a lot of Peru, seeing Lima, Arequipa and Lake Titicaca, where the scenery was wonderful. Did you spend time in the jungle? Yes, we went to Puerto Maldonado in Peru for the Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica, which was really out of our comfort zone but fantastic fun. We were only there for five days, right in the middle of the jungle, staying in stilted cabins. We went on a night hike looking for tarantulas, which was frightening. A week earlier, we stayed in Mashpi Lodge in Ecuador, a glass-walled oasis in the middle of the cloudforest – an extraordinary place that recently featured on the BBC’s Amazing Hotels: Life Beyond the Lobby.
wonderful and delivered on all levels. Then, with the Terracotta Army, we were quite lucky because we saw them the day after the Qingming Festival finished. The day before, there had been thousands of visitors, but when we went, we didn’t even have to wait in line. So, what led you to write the book? It all started when I told my children that I’d write as I went along and send them what I called ‘Moore Ramblings’. A couple of friends heard I was writing these and, before I knew it, it snowballed into quite a lot of people wanting to read my ramblings. They suggested I try and make a book out of it, and thankfully a publishing company said yes.
What can we expect You visited from your book? TRAVEL TIP Southeast We have had so “Always chat with local Asia later on. many experiences people who can provide That must that have been stories and insight that have been a big planned, but it’s you won’t find in the guidebooks.” change… often the unplanned It was, but that was and bizarre ones that the beauty of this trip: made it. We met the contrast. Burma a lady with six-foot-long hair in (Myanmar) was probably the middle of a rice field, dug our the place we the fewest own baths on the volcanic expectations for, but it beaches of New Zealand and absolutely delivered. We went were given an oxygen tank to ballooning over Bagan at help us sleep at night in Lake 5.30am, just as the sun was Titicaca. I also want to inspire coming up. We soared over the others to push themselves out area, its 2,000 temples and of their comfort zone. You can read about it and watch as monuments sprinkled across many David Attenborough the landscape. It was programs as you like, but you’ll extraordinary. We also visited never understand the real thing the Ghost Market in Mandalay, until you actually go and see it which disappears off the for yourself. railway tracks to allow a train to pass, only to be set up again just as quickly. David’s book, Did you have any other highlights in Asia? It would have to be the Great Wall and Terracotta Army. We were taken to a part of the wall that not many people go to and we walked along it for two or three hours. It was
Turning Left Around the World, is released on 24 September. Visit his website at www.davidcmoore-author.com for more information about his trip, including photographs and a link to pre-order the book. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 49
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TRAVELERS’ TALES
#TheAudleyWay We love receiving your updates on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, and even if you’re not currently traveling you can share images from your recent trips based on each edition’s theme. ARCHITECTURE
@starsharks Miyajima, Japan
@ktrowbridge The Great Wall, China
@JulieFraserPhotography Udaipur, India
@TracyJBell Quito, Ecuador
@karshuu Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca, Morocco
@melhwt Machu Picchu, Peru
Win an #AudleySafari Share your best wildlife photograph or video with us for the chance to win an Audley safari for two. To enter on Instagram or Twitter, post your photograph with the location and write #AudleySafari and @AudleyTravel on your post. To enter on Facebook, head to www.facebook.com/audleytravel and post your photograph or video on our wall or our related posts. If you’re not on social media, you can enter via our website at www.audleytravel.com/social/us. The competition is open from the August 20th- September 23rd 2018. Terms and conditions apply.
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FIND OUT MORE... To request a brochure please visit: www.audleytravel.com/us/brochures or call 1-855-838-8300
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