SPRING 2019
CLASSIC COLOMBIA
Discover the culture, cuisine and coastline of Latin America’s overlooked gem
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CONTENTS 4 First Sight
22Kenya
Safari specialist Amy shares her favorite out-of-season safaris to add to your adventures in the African grasslands.
Updates from our specialists’ travels across the planet. This month, from Iceland, Tibet, Cambodia and Italy.
8Escape Routes
A Vietnam veteran returns 28 Interview:
Hours In… Bordeaux 4248
14Western Australia
to Head: Barcelona vs Lisbon 30Head
46Traveler’s Tales
Spectacular photographs captured on our specialists’ latest adventures: this issue, Antarctica and Tanzania.
Travel news, from brand-new stays to the latest flight routes and freshest experiences: find out our big news, hike in New Zealand and find history in Shanghai.
Specialist Sian road trips through the wild Outback and glossy Perth, discovering marine life and Aboriginal culture on route.
Bob Waldheim and his wife Ruth recently traveled back to Vietnam with Audley in order to heal from the past.
Barcelona’s fairytale architecture beckons, while Lisbon dazzles with intricate tile-work – but which city of culture is right for you?
6: South Africa Great Value Experiences 20Top 34Colombia Calling Get more for less in South Africa – our specialists share their recommendations.
Three city experiences to place this under-appreciated gem back on your map.
38Just Back From…
Visit renowned vineyards and sample delectable oysters in one of France’s most decadent cities.
Stories and images from your Audley journeys. This month’s reports come from India’s backwaters and mountains in Morocco.
50Your Photos
Heart-stopping pictures taken on your Audley travels.
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WELCOME
Dear Traveler
Contributors
Welcome to the spring issue of Audley Traveler. When planning a trip, you’ll usually want to know the best time to visit your destination, but it’s not always necessary to stick to these months rigidly. On page 22, safari specialist Amy explores Kenya outside of its main season and discovers that, while visitors might be fewer, the wildlife certainly isn’t. Colombia is a destination that has been on everyone’s lips recently. On page 34, Harry shares what he loves most about the country and how to make the most of your time there. Over on page 14, Sian from our Australia team tells us why Western Australia has all the ingredients for a great road trip: secluded national parks, masses of marine life and experiences that acquaint you with Aboriginal culture. I hope you enjoy the issue.
Jacqui Lewis Managing Director
77 N Washington St, 6th Floor, Boston, MA 02114 Telephone: 1-855-838-8300 Website: www.audleytravel.com The vacations featured in this magazine are suggestions only and will be customized to fit your travel dates and preferences. All prices quoted are exclusive of international flights and subject to change. Designed by Wanderlust Travel Media. CST#2117258-40 | Fla. Seller of Travel Ref. No. ST39468.
Amy Czarnecki East Africa Specialist After traveling throughout East Africa, Amy fell in love with the off-the-beaten path adventures Kenya has to offer, such as attending a Maasai celebration and walking in the Tumeran Wilderness. Best skill learned on the road? Let your expert guides control the day – they know much more than you! Harry Stone Colombia Specialist Harry first backpacked through Colombia in 2014. He has always loved the inviting culture and travels back whenever possible. Best skill learned on the road? Learn the language, even a little goes a long way. Leanne Proctor France Specialist After studying in France, Leanne wasn’t ready to leave and stayed for another year. France is a small country with an array of sub-cultures and she has loved exploring each region. Best skill learned on the road? Patience – adapt to the culture around you.
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THINGS we’ve learned this issue
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Fancy a traditional Colombian breakfast? You’d typically begin your day with a buñuelo (sweet, rolled dough) and tinto (coffee served dark and sugary). The Ningaloo Reef, on the Western Australian coastline, is the world’s largest fringing reef at 160 miles long – and the best place to spot the gentle whale shark. Johannesburg’s vibrant street art is rejuvenating inner-city areas, giving local artists a voice to explore the country’s turbulent past. Lisbon’s Ribeira Market, an establishment since 1892, is the best place in the city to sample cuisine from the entire country.
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Images supplied by Audley travellers, staff and suppliers, Alamy, iStock and AWL SPRI N G 2019
CLASSIC COLOMBIA
Discover the culture, cuisine and coastline of Latin America’s overlooked gem
FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA FOR DAILY TRAVEL INSPIRATION Tag @AudleyTravel and #TheAudleyWay to share your travel photos with us.
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On the cover Colonial town of Barichara, Colombia. Uncover the highlights of Colombia’s three key cities on page 34. For more information, call our Colombia specialists on 1-833-703-1402 or request the brochure at www.audleytravel.com/us/brochures
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GENTOO PENGUINS IN ANTARCTICA Matt Nilsson, Latin America product team ”This image was taken during a day of heavy snowfall in Antarctica. We were exploring some of the different trails our expedition leaders had marked out when a zigzagging path up a large hill caught our eye. Half an hour later, we reached the top and found ourselves among a sprawling gentoo penguin colony. We sat down on the outskirts and watched the penguins socializing. At one point, I saw two of them separate themselves from the group – they seemed to be sharing a moment. I got them centered in the frame before they waddled off to rejoin the colony.”
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FIRST SIGHT
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FIRST SIGHT THE MAASAI STEPPE, TANZANIA By Arista Midwinter, Tanzania specialist �While staying at Africa Amini Life Maasai Lodge in Tanzania, I realized that it is one of those places where you either lose or find yourself. Set on the plains between Mount Meru and Kilimanjaro, the lodge is surrounded by some of the most beautiful volcanic landscapes imaginable. I joined a nature walk with a Maasai warrior, who casually strolled alongside me while wielding his spear. He taught me all about the fascinating culture and traditions of the Maasai. What struck me most was how proud the Maasai are of their way of life, and I left feeling that their traditions will remain embedded within their culture for a very long time.�
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ESCAPE ROUTES
TRAVEL NEWS | FLIGHT DECK | RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL | CHECK IN
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WHAT’S NEW
New stays in Cambodia From the glory of Angkor Wat to the infamy of the Khmer Rouge, Cambodia has long drawn visitors for its historical and anthropological angles. The list of Cambodian experiences is growing, making it a destination that warrants a few weeks’ exploration. Traveling beyond Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, unspoiled jungles and remote islands now harbor some of the most exciting new properties in Asia. Highlights include the luxury camp Shinta Mani Wild (pictured) and Alila Villas on the island of Koh Russey. For more information, contact our Cambodia specialists on 1-833-357-5611.
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ESCAPE ROUTES
WHERE TO GO IN… 3 MONTHS
PERU
FLIGHT DECK The latest flight news
British Airways has made improvements to its Premium Economy (World Traveler Plus) cabins. The changes include new menus with enhanced catering and the introduction of updated amenity bags, blankets and pillows. This follows the ongoing rollout of new Premium Economy seats on flights from their London Gatwick base. As of June 22nd, Royal Air Maroc will begin offering direct flights, three times a week, between Boston and Casablanca, Morocco. EgyptAir will begin flying direct between Cairo, Egypt, and Washington Dulles as of June 3rd. This will be the carrier’s third North American destination. Air New Zealand will fly direct from Christchurch to Singapore using its 787 Dreamliner from December 1st 2019. The seasonal service will run five times per week, until February 22nd 2020 and features a revised interior with more Premium Economy and Business Class (Business Premier) seating. Its partner Singapore Airlines currently operates this route daily.
As the rains in the Andes cease, visitors can enjoy warm, sunny days and chilly, crisp evenings at altitude. This time of year lends itself to enjoying the attractions Peru has to offer, from admiring Machu Picchu in the sunshine, to enjoying a boat trip on Lake Titicaca under vivid blue skies, to trekking against backdrops of snow-capped mountains. For more information, contact our Peru specialists on 1-833-357-5689.
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THE UK & IRELAND With a mild climate, the UK and Ireland can be visited any time of the year, but we love to go in October, and bypass the peak crowds of summer as well as be rewarded with views of the autumn leaves’ changing russet and amber colors. The crisp weather is great for outdoor exploration followed by a hearty meal besides a roaring pub fire. For more information, contact our UK and Ireland specialists on 1-833-357-5669.
9 MONTHS
JAPAN
During the 2019 Rugby World Cup and 2020 Summer Olympic Games, flight availability in Japan will be limited and prices inflated. If attending isn’t a priority, we recommend visiting between December and February, which will see far fewer crowds – plus, the crisp wintry skies mean you’re likely to see a snow-capped Mount Fuji. For more information, contact our Japan specialists on 1-833-357-5658.
Introducing custom adventures to Greece Starting this July, Audley will offer hand-crafted trips to Greece. Our team has been sourcing immersive experiences to help you connect with the country’s rich history and culture. Join us as we discover sunken ruins in Epidavros – kayak to the ruins before snorkeling over them for a closer look, then visit an olive oil producer for a tasting before you indulge in fresh sea urchins as part of lunch on a deserted beach. Or pedal an e-bike to Meteora monasteries to watch the sun set over the area’s unusual rock formations. Stay tuned for more information. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 9
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CHECK IN
The most exciting new stays Ranginui, South Island, New Zealand Ranginui is a three-room B&B on the shores of Lake Tekapo. Floor-to-ceiling windows and patios look out onto the lake and the Southern Alps. The hosts, Ann-Maree and Sab, are already popular with Audley travelers: they also run experiences in Australia’s Northern Territory. Souly Lodge, Oman Located right by the beach on the Indian Ocean, Souly Lodge is one of the first eco-lodges in Oman, using local wood and stone to construct the spacious bungalows and employing solar power and energy-saving lightbulbs. Senda Monteverde, Monteverde, Costa Rica This boutique hotel is located in the cloudforest of Costa Rica’s northwestern highlands. Rooms are dotted around the grounds in casitas overlooking a valley. Activities on offer include cookery classes, Spanish lessons, coffee tastings and birdwatching. The Middle House, Shanghai, China The Middle House is a sleek, modern oasis in the midst of Shanghai. Set away from The Bund, the historic riverside is a short walk away. The zen-style spacious studio rooms offer a soothing respite from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Ramble New Zealand’s latest trail New Zealand’s ‘Great Walks’ are celebrated as fine ways to see the country at its wild best – and now you can take a guided expedition of the newest addition to those ten epic treks: the Routeburn Track. Your day begins with a scenic drive around Queenstown’s Lake
Wakatipu to reach the trailhead in Glenorchy. The track crosses suspension bridges over rushing waters, before winding through native beech forest and into the mountains. For more information, please contact our New Zealand specialists on 1-833-357-5652.
A Shanghai history tour
Get closer to the wildlife
Now you can explore Shanghai’s former French Concession district on a guided walk with Patrick Cranley. A historian and Art Deco enthusiast, Patrick’s lived in Shanghai for more than 20 years and knows its buildings better than most. Together, you’ll dart in and out of traditional lilong (laneway) neighborhoods, pass forgotten ballrooms – with their original parquet flooring – and walk the Bund, popping into tenements just steps away from luxury hotels. For more information, please contact our China specialists on 1-833-357-5660.
Sabi Sands Game Reserve in South Africa has always been acclaimed for its diverse wildlife and luxurious lodges. Cheetah Plains is the latest lodge to open its doors, and is the first in the country to introduce Tesla-battery-powered game vehicles. Not only are these electric 4x4s more environmentally friendly, they’re also quieter. It means you can get closer to animals without disturbing them for even better sightings in the bush. For more information, please contact our South Africa specialists on 1-833-357-5629.
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RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL
Making giant strides in elephant welfare We’re committed to taking a responsible approach to travel and we want to ensure that your visit has a positive effect. One key area for concern is the welfare of captive elephants in tourism and we’ve already stopped offering experiences that involve riding elephants. Over the last year, as part of a wider focus on animal welfare, we’ve reviewed all the elephant experiences that we offer. It’s been a robust approach, with an internal team that includes a steering group working under the guidance of an external expert. After lots of discussions, we’ve drawn up a set of guidelines to ensure that we only offer experiences with associations whose primary purpose is the welfare of the elephants. To find out more about our Elephant Policy, please visit www.audleytravel.com/us/ about-us/responsible-travel
What to READ
What to WATCH
What to SEE
What to DOWNLOAD
Put your travel knowledge to the test against family and friends with Lonely Planet’s Ultimate Travel Quiz Book. With questions on everything from geography and culture to wildlife and transport, it’s ideal for all ages – and a great addition to any trip. Available May 21st, 2019
Disney is set to release the all-new live-action version of The Lion King on the 25th anniversary of the original movie. In 1991, they sent a team of animators to Kenya to do research for the film. As a result, most of the landscapes are based on the country’s vast national parks. Out July 2019
The Joan Miró: Birth of a World exhibition looks at the artist’s career and his dreamlike paintings that blur realism with abstraction. His work, which was often inspired by poetry, is showing at the MOMA in New York. Until July 6th 2019. For tickets, visit www.moma.org
Plane Finder tracks planes live on a worldwide map or by pointing your camera viewfinder at the sky. Simply type in the flight number and then follow your plane’s journey across the world on the map. Available on iOS and Android AUDLEY TRAVELER | 11
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RECIPE
Torta Valeria By Joe Fellini, Italy specialist Of all the people I met in Italy, Laura Niccolai is one of the most interesting. An energetic octogenarian with a passion for cooking, she grew up in an era when Italian women were expected to get married, have a family and stay at home. She chose to defy expectations instead and learned to cook in Milan under chef Gualtiero Marchesi, the first Italian chef to be awarded three Michelin stars. Laura opened her first cooking class in the 1980s before moving to the USA. There, she offered classes in San Francisco, Dallas, San Antonio and California. Here, she shares her recipe for torta Valeria (named after her daughter), which she usually serves with vanilla ice cream.
INGREDIENTS 3 egg whites 1/4 cup sugar 1 pinch of salt 3 egg yolks 1 tablespoon of corn starch, sifted 1 cup 58% cocoa content Valrhona haimelted is sold inwith most1/2 citicup es and chocolate, oftowns butter across India. Confectioners sugarI recommend trying it when you visit, but you’ll need METHOD a sweet tooth – it’s premixed 1. Preheat themany ovenvendors to 375°F. with milk and addGrease sugar and flour a 8asking. inchesMaster cake tin. without tea-makers, known 2. chai-wallahs, Place the egg whites, sugar and as make the ancient art ofsalt in a bowl. Whisk until thethan mixture brewing chai look easier it is. has slightly thickened – itclay should about In many places, small cups take are used three four minutes. to servetothe chai. Once you’ve finished, you 3. Addthe thecup egg yolks, the corn starch smash near the chai-wallah, who’ll and the chocolate butter collect themelted pieces and send them back to mixture; gently until smooth the pottersmix to be recycled into new cups. (mixing hardvisit willtomake the cake flat). Duringtoo a recent the sleepy Keralan 4. Pouryside, the batter intochatt the ed tin.toBake countr I met and a on the oven’s middle rack for 30–35 minutes. chai-wallah as my homestay host, Sinta, 5. Removefor theus. cake from the oven and interpreted He taught me his let it cool. Unmold, transfer to serve mother-in-law’s recipe for masala chai, and sprinkle confectioners which hewith brewed fresh for me. sugar. I watched
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Going out for an Italian Learn to cook in Campania with Laura
Have you recreated a recipe we’ve featured in Audley Traveler? Or have you sampled a delicious local cuisine on your travels? We’d love to see your images of your favorite food and drink experiences. Tag your posts with #TheAudleyWay and @AudleyTravel.
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JAPANESE DRIVETIME Hit the road and explore the land of the rising sun from the driver’s seat. Our specialists get behind the wheel and reveal their favorite cross-country jaunts…
Iya Valley, Shikoku by Hilary Nisbet “The bullet train might be the most iconic way to see Japan, but the country’s smallest island, Shikoku, is much better visited by car. Drive deep into the thickly forested Iya Valley and see the hidden vine bridges and mountainous views that are especially impressive in November as the leaves begin to redden. Stop off in some of the tiny rural villages, including Nagoro, a village that is populated by more scarecrows than humans.”
Tohoku by Caitlin Frost “Tohoku refers to the little-visited northern part of Honshu. The region’s volcanic mountains, wild coastline and neat rice fields are only really accessible by car – perfect for the adventurous. Take a pitstop and hike Mount Gassan (and be blessed by a priest at the top), relax by crystal-clear caldera lakes, or explore former samurai strongholds.”
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Noto Peninsula by Rory Dent “The Noto Peninsula juts out of the northern coast of Japan’s main island, Honshu. Home to the country’s most rugged coastline, the area is renowned for its healing hot springs and historic Buddhist temples. Spend a few days exploring 12th-century samurai residences and winding coastal roads, finishing at one of Japan’s finest traditional inns, Lamp No Yado, on the northeastern tip of the peninsula.”
Okinawa by Amanda MacKenzie “Japan may have a world-leading public transport system, but along the tropical island chain of Okinawa, you’ll need a car to explore freely. Enjoy a slice of Japan that few people visit as you hop between powder-white beaches, biodiverse national parks, and rural villages that feel different from anywhere on the mainland.”
Start planning your trip with one of our Japan specialists. Call us on 1-833-357-5658.
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A DIARY FROM D
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DOWN UNDER Western Australia has it all: national parks, Aboriginal culture, and the closest fringing reef. Our specialist shares her experience of the region’s most extraordinary road trip WORDS BY SIAN BERNARD
Park life The Pinnacles Desert at Nambung National Park, where million-year-old pillars jut out of silky sand AUDLEY TRAVELER | 15
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he first thing you might notice are the colors. There’s the oxblood, vermilion, rust, and ochre of the Outback; the pale olive green of the eucalypts; the pearlescent white of the beaches; and the neonturquoise, spearmint, aquamarine of the Indian Ocean. Then there’s the sky: an unblemished cornflower blue. The almostconstant sun makes everything glow with a Technicolor intensity, and between July and October, the whole region is awash with a rainbow of wildflowers. I first visited Western Australia 12 years ago. Last December, I returned for a research trip. I’m happy to say that the
colors haven’t dimmed and nor has the residents’ hospitality: endlessly welcoming, proud of their homeland, unpretentious, and kind. This isn’t the Australia you might have encountered elsewhere. Leaving behind the bright lights of Perth and heading up the Coral Coast, you’ll find a less manicured, more rustic backcountry. It’s a place where you can pull into a no-frills roadhouse (gas station) and pass the time of day with ranchers, truckers, and farmers. The kind of place where your Aboriginal guide still participates in traditional ceremonies. Towns are tiny, roads are long and there’s no well-oiled tourist conveyor belt.
ON THE ROAD
The best way to see Western Australia is by car. The classic route hugs the Coral Coast, taking you north from Perth, the state capital, to Exmouth, where you can then catch a flight back to your starting point. The whole route sees you cover 770 miles. On the way, stop to explore geologically striking national parks, tour with knowledgeable Aboriginal guides and snorkel the thriving Ningaloo Reef. An added bonus: as of April 1st this year, rental car company Avis is reducing their one-way drop-off fees, making this trip much better value for money. You do need to be prepared for some long days in remote, Outback-esque
Jump to it Spot kangaroos on the beach; (above) explore cosmopolitan Perth and its Elizabeth Quay
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AUSTRALIA Path through Perth Swan River runs through the metropolitan area of Perth; (below) Kings Park
terrain. Some drives last more than five hours, but you can break up the journey with some incredible sights, including Pinnacles Desert and Pink Lake. Roads are uncrowded. The landscapes you pass through are full of surprises, such as deserts punctuated with termite mounds – from afar, they look like people striking wacky poses. And the roadhouses, where you can grab a coffee and a bite to eat, are a hoot. They always seem to come with some eccentric extra. I’ve counted a gang of resident emus, a random fiberglass sculpture and, most unexpectedly, some of the most delicious Vietnamese spring rolls I’ve ever tasted. All this, in the middle of desert.
at COMO The Treasury Hotel, stands out, but I’ve also had a lovely evening at a brewhouse on Elizabeth Quay, Perth’s newest development. The Swan River winds through the city and you don’t need to go far to find open green spaces: Kings Park, with its array of native botany, sits right in the city center. Sweeping beaches, some with dining spots
overlooking the ocean (ideal for experiencing a crimson Indian Ocean sunset) are only a short drive or train ride away. They’re all the more tempting given that Perth is Australia’s sunniest state capital. However, what I like the most about Perth is that, despite the changes it’s seen over the past decade, it retains a low-key, understated, small-town feel.
POLISHED PERTH
Perth has long been the overlooked little brother to megawatt cities such as Sydney and Melbourne. Until now. Western Australia’s state capital has undergone major development in recent years, bestowing it with a smart, high-sheen feel and a spate of new eating, drinking, and entertainment outlets. The gourmet wizardry of Wildflower, the restaurant AUDLEY TRAVELER | 17
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PILLARS, PICTURE FRAMES & PRISTINE BEACHES
Driving north from Perth, the first national park you’ll hit is Nambung. Its showpiece is the Pinnacles, where million-year-old limestone pillars jut out of the silky sand. Nearby lies Lake Thetis, whose shoreline is scattered with miniature crater-like mounds – thrombolites, billion-year-old living fossils. Further on, there’s the tawny-red Tumblagooda sandstone of Kalbarri National Park, which has been sculpted into various formations. You can visit them on a series of easy walking trails. My favorite is the loop trail that leads to the park’s most popular spot: ‘Nature’s Window’, a natural arch perfectly framing a view over a gorge. Francois Peron National Park, four hours up the coast, is covered in orangey-scarlet sand – sacred to local Aboriginals. This was where I first became enraptured by Western Australia’s chromatic power: when I saw the sand juxtaposed with the cyan ocean. Beyond Exmouth, you’ll come to Cape Range National Park. Here you can snorkel
in Turquoise Bay, with its thriving turtle population, and bask on unspoiled white sands. The park also has several viewpoints where, in the Austral winter, you can spy humpback whales. There is also Yardie Creek, an immense gorge, that lies a short drive away. The hiking is accessible and you’re likely to see plenty of kangaroos.
UNDER THE SEA
Although I have spent a lot of time on the Great Barrier Reef, and it has a special place in my heart, I was genuinely astonished at the amount of marine life
that I saw during just one day’s snorkeling on the Ningaloo Reef. The world’s closest fringing reef at 160 miles long, the Ningaloo – unlike the Great Barrier – lies close to shore. You don’t need to venture out into the ocean to experience its treasures, nor do you need to be a diver. And – newsflash – it’s not all about whale sharks. Although these gentle creatures visit the reef from March to July, they’re not the only fish in the sea. I took a group snorkeling trip out of Coral Bay. “You’ll be swimming with turtles today,” announced our skipper. Ok,
View to a thrill Peek through Nature’s Window for views across Kalbarri National Park; (above) a green sea turtle on Ningaloo Reef
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AUSTRALIA Lorem ipsum dolor qui nientibus Life’s a beachdus aspient iissenih, Discover a whole new world conecup tatibusdae under the surface at Shark Bay; (below) a thorny devil lizard
I thought, skeptically, let’s hope I see at least a couple. Wrong. Within minutes of entering the water, I was surrounded by them, their shells like a throng of rocks bobbing about on the surface. Next, it was the turn of the manta rays, who soared beneath me like underwater kites. Then, we moored over what was – as our on-board marine biologist explained – a shark-cleaning station. Sure enough, when I jumped back in and donned my mask, there they were. Grey reef sharks circled below, patiently having their pedicures (courtesy of thousands of small fish who nibble at the parasites on their skin). I also counted – among other species – flounders and a spindly, flute-like cornetfish. Further to the south, at Monkey Mia, you can also see something very rare: dugongs (a type of sea cow). Once endangered due to depleted seagrass meadows (their food source), the dugongs here are now happily breeding again. You can take a boat trip that has permission to enter a special dugong reserve. You will, with luck, see several of them mooching placidly around the boat. Back on dry land, keep an eye out for thorny devil lizards (yes, that’s their real name). Encrusted in triceratops-like spines and hooks, they’re petite yet
fearsome. The one I saw was most obliging and posed for an extended photoshoot.
CALL OF NATURE
Darren Capeswell – “call me Capes” – is a Yamaji Man from Shark Bay and you can spend a day with him touring his back yard, Francois Peron National Park. He takes you around the park by 4x4 (the only way to access it), pulling over at whim to examine ocean viewpoints, take short walks and explore bush medicine and bushcraft. “Do you happen to have a small blemish on your body?” he asked at one point. Sheepishly, I showed him one of my hands. “Stick this in,” he said, handing me some
thorns, “and in a couple of days it’ll be gone.” He wasn’t lying, I discovered. Capes is filled with positivity about the future of Aborginal-owned businesses in the fishing and touring industries. Expect to be called “Sista” or “Brotha”, and to glean a lot of information about native flora and fauna. “When nature talks, we listen; when nature’s healthy, we’re healthy,” he told me when discussing the region’s ecology. The evening is spent at the Francois Peron Homestead, a heritage property with a hot-spring-fed hot tub in its grounds. You can soak in it, wine in hand, and stargaze while Capes barbecues fresh barramundi. At one point I saw him gazing at the moon. “It’s going to rain tomorrow,” he mused. Friends, he wasn’t lying about that either.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Flight time from Los Angeles to Perth is around 20 hours via Melbourne. When to go: April to October coincides with wildflower season and brings cooler, drier weather. Get me there: A 12-day tailor-made trip to Western Australia’s Coral Coast starts from $3,750pp. For more information, please contact Sian or our Australia specialists on 1-833-357-5651. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 19
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GREAT VALUE EXPERIENCES IN SOUTH AFRICA As the dollar-to-rand exchange rate increases, our specialists reveal the best luxury-for-less experiences in South Africa
1Self-drive the Garden Route
2 Eat well for less
the Big Five in the Eastern Cape 4 Track
cities and towns Johannesburg’s on foot street art scene 6 Explore 5 Experience
Recommended by Anna Boughen The Garden Route remains one of South Africa’s best-known drives thanks to its diverse landscape. Not only is self-driving an economical way to explore the country due to low fuel costs, it also gives you the freedom to pull over at various viewpoints during your journey to appreciate the shifting scenery and wave-battered coastline. Accommodation options vary from comfortable three-star guesthouses to luxurious hotels. Whenever I find myself in these parts, I like to sit at a seaside cafe in Plettenberg Bay and watch pods of dolphins skimming through the waves.
Recommended by Chris Thompson Addo Elephant National Park, in the Eastern Cape, has one of the densest African elephant populations in the world. Here, you can embark on a self-drive safari along its tarred roads – a more adventurous way to track the Big Five. It also gives you the flexibility to stop if, for example, you encounter a pride of lion wandering by. If you did want to spend time with a guide to find out more about the park’s wildlife, you can pre-book game drives with expert rangers. Accommodation options here offer good value for money, and this region is malaria-free, making it an excellent choice for families.
Recommended by Hailey Landers South Africa’s varied wildlife, landscapes and activities have always made it a popular destination with both first-time and repeat visitors. However, you’ll also find diversity in its food. Local dishes are derived from a mixture of Asian, African and European influences and meals are prepared using a fusion of local spices and the freshest ingredients. Whether you’re biting into a samosa from a Capetonian street vendor or feasting on an eight-course tasting menu in a fine-dining restaurant, you’re guaranteed quality food for a fraction of the cost you’d pay back home.
Recommended by Amelia Henderson Steeped in political history, Johannesburg is well worth exploring if you’d like to delve into South Africa’s recent past. The country’s former struggles, and their subsequent impact, are also reflected in the artwork you encounter as you stroll through the recently rejuvenated inner-city area. Here, the streets are bustling with local vendors and artists who are using their creativity as an opportunity to empower themselves. I like exploring the Maboneng Precinct, where bursts of contemporary street art line the walls and you can buy handmade African crafts at fair prices.
vineyard-hopping in the Cape region 3 Go
Recommended by Ben Bovill While there are many well-known vineyards in the towns of Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Paarl, you’ll also find lesser-known, more intimate wine estates. Visitors can sample some of their finest wines; not only are the tasting fees well priced, many vineyards will also waive the fee if you buy a bottle. If you’re in Stellenbosch, I recommend trying Waterford Estate’s wine and chocolate pairings. It feels as though you’re sitting in a Spanish courtyard as you sample three of the estate’s wines, alongside chocolates specially selected to complement your palate.
Recommended by Molly Gustafson Whether you’re joined by a local guide for a walk through the streets of Cape Town’s Bo-Kaap area or strolling the oak-lined avenues of Stellenbosch (South Africa’s second-oldest town), morning walking tours reveal parts of the Cape you generally wouldn’t see from a vehicle. I enjoy meeting and talking to the guides, many of whom have grown up in the area and are eager to share insights into their hometown. Walking tours tend to be shorter than vehicle-led ones, too, so you have the rest of the day to explore further, armed with your newly acquired local knowledge.
For more information, please contact our South Africa specialists on 1-833-357-5629.
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Getting the point A juveline black rhino spars with a bull white rhino
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WALKING ON THE
WILD
SIDE Our safari specialist reveals how strolling is the new driving, as she leaves the 4x4 far behind to get an up-close look at some of Kenya’s wildest parks
WORDS BY AMY CZARNECKI
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afari specialist Amy visited three of Kenya’s most wildlife-rich areas outside of the busier months that see the much-anticipated Great Migration river crossings. From camel-assisted walking safaris to spotting endangered species and facing the Masai Mara without the crowds, she proves that there’s never a bad time to embark on a Kenyan safari.
CALL OF THE WILD
The gateway to the Laikipia Plateau, one of Kenya’s biggest stretches of wilderness, is a grassy airstrip in the market town of Nanyuki. I arrive in a Cessna Caravan, having flown past the individual peaks of Mount Kenya. A handful of people sit on plastic chairs, snacking on samosas and drinking cold Tusker beer as they wait for the small turboprop plane to return them to Nairobi. Save for the rusted, life-size sculpture of a rhino nearby, the ramshackle buildings and sleepy atmosphere remind me of the frontier towns of America’s Wild West. A man waits by the edge of the airfield, clutching a sign with my name on it. He
greets me with a handshake, and with no time wasted, we’re on our way north, towards the Lewa Wilderness Conservancy. We drive down a flat, dusty road, bordered here and there by block-shaped buildings bearing signs for ‘The Equator Chalet’ and ‘Equator Curios’. While the equator passes through the country four miles south of here, it’s not as hot as you’d expect. Laikipia comprises high-altitude rangelands where the air is refreshingly cool. Stretching from Mount Kenya to the Great Rift Valley, this patchwork of huge, privately owned plots is roughly the size of New Jersey. Wildlife has historically used this area as a corridor, but numbers began to dwindle when the land was used for cattle ranching. Luckily, careful land management in recent years has returned it to its roots. It’s now a haven for a varied cast of animals, including several endangered species, such as the black rhino and Grévy’s zebra. Safaris here take you beyond just sitting in a vehicle, giving you an opportunity to
explore your surroundings on foot. You’ll find few other visitors, despite the high density of wildlife. I soon arrive at Lewa House, a thatched building built of local stone and surrounded by large indigenous trees that provide much-appreciated shade. I’m welcomed with a cold glass of fresh mango juice from Callum and Sophie, who run and live on this farm-turned-safari lodge with their two young children. Sophie’s family have been connected with Lewa for five generations; it was her great-grandfather who first began to conserve the land and its wildlife alongside farming. Staying here, your individual cottage looks out over the seemingly unending plains, with mountain ranges tinged blue in the distance. It soon felt like home to me. Lewa House is centrally located within the Lewa Wilderness Conservancy, private land that was transformed into a rhino sanctuary in the 1980s. A pioneering model of successful conservation, it now supports a variety of animals. Antelope and giraffe
‘SAVE FOR THE RUSTED SCULPTURE OF A RHINO, THE RAMSHACKLE BUILDINGS AND SLEEPY ATMOSPHERE REMIND ME OF AMERICA’S WILD WEST’
Circle of life (clockwise from top right) Enjoy a camel-assisted walking safari in Laikipia Plateau; the exterior of Lewa House; giraffe feeding at the Lewa Wilderness Conservancy; the lush grasslands of Mount Kenya
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KENYA are commonplace, and you might encounter cheetah, leopard, wild dog and buffalo with the help of your experienced guides. An elephant corridor extends from Mount Kenya through Lewa and out into the open expanses of the Samburu region, and you’ll often see herds plodding along the well-trodden route. The best part about a stay in Lewa is the rejection of a stringent safari schedule – your time is highly flexible. My guide, Joseph, plans each day to my preferences, but makes sure I don’t miss anything in his own subtle way. We split our time between game drives and walks through the plains and I relish the nights spent beside the campfire listening to stories about the bush. I didn’t come here to tick animals off my checklist, but I do anyway. We spend hours watching large herds of elephant mingling in the river and observe a leopard slinking off into the tall grass. We successfully track black and white rhino a few times – a rare experience in East Africa.
HIKING WITH HUMPS
When I wake up on my last morning in Lewa, I’m sad to leave. I say my goodbyes with genuine promises that I’ll be back, and Joseph drives me to the gate, where another driver is waiting for me. We cross back through Laikipia County, with Mount
Kenya a constant focal point rising from the surrounding ridgelines, and pass through Nanyuki once again before heading west. Our destination is Tumaren Ranch, a 6 sq mi property that borders Kenya’s vast Northern Frontier. It’s the starting point for a camel-assisted walking safari, which is owned and run by Kerry Glen and James Christian. The couple purchased the land as a base for their safaris and spent years living on it with their children. Tumaren Camp is now the permanent base camp for their walking safaris. When on safari here, you stay for the first night in one of six large sleeping tents, each with solar lighting, a shower and furniture strewn with brightly patterned fabrics. Then, you walk each day to different spots in the bush, where staff will have set up camp for the night. When I arrive, I meet my guide, Gabriel, and we spend the evening on a short walk to
get acquainted with our surroundings and each other. As we walk, Gabriel reads me the story of the tracks and signs that animals have left behind. “A bull elephant walked this way,” he says, pointing towards rocky outcrops in the distance. “You can see his footprints here. It’s a bull because a female would not be alone. Can you see how the footprint is broken here? He kicks sand forward as he walks, so we can tell which way he is going.” We pass impala and Grant’s gazelle, which stand deathly still and alert, assessing us before bolting to a safe distance. It’s a world apart from safaris in a vehicle, which generations of animals have become so accustomed to that they barely register your presence. Being on foot is a two-way conversation with the bush – every action has a reaction. As we walk, Gabriel’s eyes are constantly scanning and evaluating our surroundings, but he still keeps up a conversation with ease. Growing up in the bush has taught him a gentleness and respect for the land that’s apparent both in his footsteps and his stories. “There is nothing to be afraid of,” he says. “The animals are more scared than you are. Nothing here wants to hurt us. We give them the space that makes them comfortable.” The rest of my time is spent like this, exploring the bush with Gabriel and
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On the hunt (clockwise from this) A leopard on the prowl; a herd of elephant on the African savannah and impala at dawn in Masai Mara National Reserve
Good morning, Vietnam Sunrise sends shafts of light over Ha Giang
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KENYA
skilled trackers on foot. We walk for a few hours each morning while the rest of the team hurries ahead, all our supplies loaded onto camels, to set up camp for the night ahead. Arriving at each new campsite in time for lunch and a cold drink, I then read my book or chat with the local Samburu and Maasai guides and trackers. In the evening, we walk to a sundowners spot, watching the sun sink into the horizon in an explosion of salmon-pink and fiery orange. We eat dinner under the stars. Wine flows around the campfire and I sleep soundly to a steady chorus of cicadas. I feel that I could spend weeks out here and barely scratch the surface. Before I know it though, I’m back at the Nanyuki airstrip and flying on to my last stop, one of the private conservancies bordering the Masai Mara. Owned by the Maasai, the land here once saw conflict between humans and wildlife. However, with profits from safari-goers now directly benefiting
local communities here, a sustainable future for both humans and wildlife has been achieved. Staying in a conservancy rather than in the main reserve gives you a more exclusive experience – the only visitors allowed in a private conservancy are those staying at the limited number of camps within its boundaries, so you’ll see far fewer people when out on game drives. Also, the conservancies are unfenced, so animals can move freely across the land.
END OF THE ROAD
The busiest time to visit the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem is from July to October, when the annual Great Migration of wildebeest and zebra moves up to the Mara River that separates Tanzania and Kenya. These perilous river crossings are undoubtedly a spectacle to witness, but nothing beats the Masai Mara in December for me. November’s short rains have just ended and the grasslands are growing back into
a lush, green carpet, plump with nutrients for impala, topi and warthogs. With most of the wildebeest gone, the elephant herds return – you can spend time watching them swimming and playing in the Mara River. The rains have washed away the territorial scent markings of the plains’s game, and impala and Thomson’s gazelle chase each other around, reasserting their dominance. Without a constant buffet of wildebeest around, hyena and lion compete for food while leopard stalk smaller prey in solitude and cheetah hunt and eat quickly before the bigger cats catch on. There are often bursts of rain in the afternoon, but this settles the dust and cools off the day. My time in the Mara is spent on game drives in the main reserve and a bordering conservancy. Even in the vast amount of space we explore over the span of a few days, I see only a handful of other vehicles. My safari ends with me sipping a gin and tonic on an escarpment, watching the sunset wash the land in a warm glow – a land that has long captured the world’s attention.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Direct flights from New York to Nairobi take around 14 hours. When to go: Early-to-mid-December and January to February offer better value and fewer visitors than the Great Migration season. Get me there: A ten-night tailor-made trip to Kenya, including time at Lewa House, private walking safaris and all national park fees and flights, starts from $12,800pp. For more information, please contact Amy or our Kenya safari specialists on 1-833-357-5622.
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Returning to
VIETNAM 28 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
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INTERVIEW
Bob Waldheim recently returned to Vietnam with his wife Ruth, 50 years after he fought in the Vietnam War from 1967 to 1968. Bob spent his 19th birthday stationed in Lei Nong, at the Marine Civic Action Group compound Alpha 8, during the Tet Offensive. It was a small village located six miles south of Hue that was then part of South Vietnam. This year, he decided that it was time to return. “I needed to get rid of my guilt, get rid of the black spots on my heart. No therapy in the world was going to lift those spots.”
Why did you decide to go back? Ruth pushed me to go. She encouraged me to face the demons head on, and I knew in my heart that I needed to find peace. I was personally at the point in my healing where I needed to deal directly with the effects that Vietnam has left me with. I also wanted Ruth to see the place that had left its unshakeable mark on me.
In search of lost time Sunrise on the Mekong Delta; (opposite right) Bob in Vietnam
How did you plan your trip? I searched online for a tour that would be tailormade, and I found Audley. I didn’t want to go to Hanoi – I wanted to walk on the land that I had been on
50 years ago. The next day, our country specialist Veronica called. Ruth and I sat out on the back porch in the sun for over an hour explaining everything that we needed from this trip. My life has been impacted by the effects of wartime post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD). I needed to face my demons in order to heal and live my life without fear. A week later, Veronica had planned a trip for us, paired with a guide who had lived through the war and a driver. Veronica had listened to more than our needs; she had listened to our story and had created an itinerary that spoke to it. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 29
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Turning the clock back (From top left) Bob with his driver, wife Ruth and guide Thong; Bob revisiting the land where he fought; life on the Mekong Delta; (Opposite, from top right) Bob’s photograph of four-year-old JimMie; Bob with Ruth and a grown up JimMie, Bob and JimMie getting to grips with each other
What was the value of traveling the country with your own guide? Thong is a former history teacher who had, at the age of eight, witnessed the landing of US Marines in Danang. He was incredibly knowledgeable and shared stories of the history of the people, the culture, and how the war impacted the country where I spent a year fighting. He enlightened me and helped
me to understand his country’s past, present and future. Most importantly, between Thong and our incredible driver, they were able to find areas that I needed to visit despite the fact that they are now overgrown and unrecognizable. Tell me about JimMie. Connection was essential to get me through some of the darkest days in Vietnam, some of the
darkest I’ve ever experienced. I met JimMie, a young boy who was just 4 years old and lived where I was stationed. We developed a friendship that was pure innocence, something that no longer existed during my reality at the time. I took his picture 50 years ago, and when I returned to Vietnam, I brought that picture in the hope that he had survived the war. Thong showed the picture to everyone.
He asked shop owners, people on the street, anyone who might know of JimMie’s whereabouts. When our last day in the region was approaching, I asked if we could scrap the day’s scheduled activities and keep searching for the village. Something told me to try again. A woman seemed to recognize the photo and ran off yelling JimMie’s name. The moment she returned with
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INTERVIEW
‘I WAS HAUNTED BY WHAT HAPPENED TO THE VIETNAMESE PEOPLE. I HAD TO GO BACK AND SEE WHAT THEIR HEALING LOOKED LIKE’
a man who appeared to be in his mid-fifties, I knew it was him. He wasn’t sure at first as to who I was, but once he saw the picture, he started crying. Both of just stood there crying and hugging, the tears more meaningful than any words. What healing occurred when you were there? There were three times when we had Agent Orange dumped
on us in the war, a defoliant chemical that was responsible for the deaths of millions of people. I was haunted by the question of what happened to all the people who lived there. I had to go back and see for myself. I had to know what their healing looked like. And I needed to see what it looked like when we put our wounds together and turned them into strength.
As we stood in a museum in the Ashau Valley looking at pictures of children with birth defects, I turned to the curator and told her how sorry I was for what we did in and to her country. I’ll never forget what she said back, “The Vietnamese culture is one that lives for the future, not the past”. It was the second time in eight days that I had listened to those exact same words.
On our second day, we had been introduced to a retired North Vietnam colonel who spoke the same words. We hugged and cried when I asked him for forgiveness. The black spot that I have lived with for the past fifty years was finally lifted from my heart. No more nightmares. No more regrets. I have finally found peace of mind and heart. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 31
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HEAD TO HEAD
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BARCELONA
Both of these Iberian cities combine cosmopolitan flare
isitors to Iberia can choose between a range of captivating cities, among them Barcelona and Lisbon, both of which have their own distinctive personality. Barcelona is a vibrant Mediterranean city overflowing with art and dream-like architecture, while Portugal’s chic capital is experiencing a well-deserved renaissance of popularity. Specialists Talia and Geoff discuss their reasons for visiting each.
BARCELONA
By Geoff Gillman It’s easy to see why Barcelona has become almost synonymous with the work of Antoni Gaudí. When I’m in the city and venture out for my ever-so-necessary daily churro break, I greet the twisted lampposts, fairytale houses and towering steeples of the yet-to-be-finished Sagrada Familia like old friends. However, Barcelona is more than just its glitzy, modernist heritage. I like starting off my visits to Barcelona with a jaunt around the Gothic Quarter, the city’s tangled medieval core. In addition to cozy restaurants and buzzing tapas bars, the neighborhood is also home to some of the oldest buildings in the city – a 4th-century Roman wall and a cathedral dating back to
the 1300s. Sometimes I’ll come here to enjoy a café solo (espresso) at a nearby cafe and try to listen for the honking of the cathedral’s 13 geese. These mascots date back to medieval times – they serve as a reminder of the cathedral’s patron saint, Eulalia, who was martyred at the age of 13. As beautiful as these historical sites are, I can’t help but be drawn to Barcelona’s vibrant modern scene. I always enjoy strolling down what is arguably Spain’s most well-known thoroughfare, La Rambla. Cars buzz by, street vendors hawk their wares, and friends laugh, enjoying the day. It’s no different inside the Mercat de la Boqueria, located just off La Rambla.
A fixture in Barcelona since the 1200s, it’s a barrage of sights and smells, colorful fruit stands around one corner, butchers hollering around another, with some small bars sprinkled throughout. I like to stop and order a croqueta, a breaded-and-fried fritter filled with creamy béchamel and jamón ibérico. Continuing down La Rambla towards the water, you’ll see the sparkling Barceloneta waterfront, originally the home of the city’s fishermen, and a great place to sample some of the freshest seafood (pictured left). From here, stroll along the waterfront to the glittering Port Olímpic, where the well-todo come to enjoy a seaside evening. You can also take a ride on the city’s cable car up to the Montjuïc area for some sweeping views of central Barcelona. The area is home to an inviting collection of art museums and verdant gardens where you can take a stroll, as well as a castle with views over the city skyline. When I’m lucky enough to spend a weekend in Barcelona, I like to come up here at night to enjoy the sound and light show at the whimsical Montjuïc Magic Fountain. Get me there: A ten-day trip to Spain, including Barcelona, starts at $5,555pp. For more information, please contact Geoff or one of our Spain specialists at 1-855-593-2125.
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with historical sights, but which will you choose to visit? LISBON
By Talia Mazepa When I meander the streets of Lisbon, I’m always in awe of the colors – bright-yellow trams clattering by, black-and-white cobbled squares and buildings clad in vivid azulejo tiles. It’s amazing to think that so much of what you see here is, by European standards, relatively new. Devastated by natural disasters in 1755, the city underwent extensive reconstruction, which created its current grid system, grand plazas such as the waterfront Praça do Comércio in the Baixa district and fashionable thoroughfares
like Avenida da Liberdade, Lisbon’s answer to the Champs-Élysées. The textures of the city are just as varied as its colors. The patterned walkways gently direct amblers to sights such as the towering wrought-iron Santa Justa Elevator. Designed by a Portuguese student of Gustave Eiffel, it transports view-seekers to a panoramic platform at the top. From here, look out over Lisbon’s red rooftops and see the rocky ramparts of Castelo São Jorge, an 11th-century Moorish fortress. Lisbon embraces the idea of change. Its central Ribeira Market has served as the main hub for fresh produce, meat and fish
since 1892. A newer section has been added, featuring a grand food hall with stalls lining the walls and a seating area, so you can indulge in local pastries, wine, coffee, ice cream, ham, and other treats. Throughout the city, old news kiosks have been turned into pop-up bars where you can sit and enjoy an atmospheric drink (perhaps a sip of ginjinha, a local cherry liqueur) at one of the many viewpoints overlooking the city. I also hate to leave without venturing to Belém, a district about 20 minutes outside of central Lisbon. The launching point for the voyages of some of Portugal’s best-known explorers, such as Vasco da Gama, the region is also home to Belém Tower (pictured left). Strolling along the waterfront and admiring the monuments to Portugal’s nautical explorers pairs perfectly with a pastel de nata. This creamy custard tart originated here centuries ago, when medieval monks used egg whites to stiffen their robes. Left with an excess of yolks, they used it to create the rich, sweet pastry. It has since become a symbol of the city and is sized just right for an afternoon treat. Get me there: A ten-day trip to Portugal, including Lisbon, starts at $6,400pp. For more information, please contact Talia or one of our Portugal specialists at 1-833-640-8077. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 33
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COLOMBIA CALLING
There’s much more to this South American country than meets the eye. Our specialist explores its top three cities and reveals why they’re back on the map… WORDS BY HARRY STONE
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Discover Colombia Watch the sun set over the city of Cartagena
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COLOMBIA
“Colombia is still a place I keep returning to: sprawling Bogotá, innovative Medellín and sultry Cartagena have well and truly taken root in my heart.”
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eed a bit of warmth to help put winter behind you? Colombia specialist Harry invites you to explore the country’s trifecta of popular cities – capital Bogotá, mountainous Medellín and coastal Cartagena.
BUENA BOGOTÁ q
Even ten years on from my first visit, Colombia is still a place I keep returning to; it has well and truly taken root in my heart. Yes, even the capital, Bogotá – a bullish, sprawling Andean metropolis you might be tempted to skip over or treat simply as your entry and exit point to the country. I recommend you give it a chance (or at least two days of your time). I like to start any visit with a morning at Paloquemao market. It’s an explosion of color (it’s the world’s second-largest flower market) and flavor (it’s bursting with food stalls selling all kinds of fresh produce and street food). Begin your day here with breakfast, Colombian-style: a buñuelo (sweet, rolled dough) and tinto (coffee served dark and sugary.) You might return for lunch, too. I like to grab a portion of lechona tolimense – an entire pig stuffed with rice and vegetables and roasted for hours. You’d be hard pressed to find many Colombians who don’t enjoy this carnivore’s delicacy. Spend the day browsing museums in La Candelaria district, Bogotá’s
Old Town. There’s a wealth to choose from, but the headliners are the Gold Museum (where you’ll find relics crafted by Colombia’s indigenous Muisca people) and Museo Botero, one of Latin America’s leading art museums. You can see several pieces here by one of the country’s leading lights, artist Fernando Botero, including the El Pájaro sculpture – a big, gutsy, sumo wrestler of a bird. Come evening, you might like to try one of the city’s cutting-edge restaurants, such as Villanos en Bermudas for its artful creations. “You’re lucky,” grinned my guide Veronica, the last time I was in Bogotá, “it is Sunday.” This was how I discovered the weekly custom of Ciclovía, when a sizeable section of the city streets close to cars so that cyclists can take over the roads. It’s the ideal opportunity for visitors to see nooks and crannies otherwise missed. If you can time your stay to coincide with a Sunday, do – Bogotá has the most extensive bike path network in the world, with more than 180 miles of trails. Riding alongside everyone from intenselooking, Lycra-clad veterans to youngsters on training wheels, you’ll see the city unfold in a much calmer way. It allows you to hone in on little, everyday vignettes: vendors selling empanadas and fruit, heavily bearded men hawking tinto coffee, a gallery of graffiti. You’re also likely to get clear views of the Andes, released from their veil of smog.
A MEANDER IN MEDELLÍN w
Make your next stop Medellín, a short flight from the capital. The city lounges in a valley, overlapping onto the surrounding mountainsides. The days are often bright, the air balmy yet fresh – a year-round weather pattern that gives Medellín its nickname, ‘the city of eternal spring’. Of course, its name was once synonymous with something – or rather, someone – else. But the city’s horrific past as the headquarters of Pablo Escobar’s notorious drug cartel has been long left behind. Now, Medellín is one of the continent’s safest cities; it was named ‘most innovative city’ in 2013 by the Urban Land Institute. If you can, dedicate at least a day to witness all the changes that have taken place in the 25 years since Escobar’s downfall. Firstly, you need a guide like Adriana. She’s less tour guide, more storyteller, and her tours typically begin in Comuna 13, once considered one of the most violent barrios (neighborhoods) in the city. It has now risen from the ashes thanks to creative social and urban planning from government and private investors. Getting there is a novelty: you take an open-air escalator. Located on a steep foothill, it was long cut off from the city center by drug barons, who used this topography to their advantage. Today, the escalators serve as a symbol of hope,
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a. The view over Medellín b. Street art in Medellín c. Saint Catherine of Alexandria Cathedral, Cartagena d. Sunflowers in Paloquemao market in Bogotá e. An artifact on display in the Gold Museum, Bogotá f. Inside Parque Arví, just outside of Medellín g. Changing of the guard in Bogotá h. A selection of fruits available at Paloquemao market i. Colorful houses in the street of La Candelaria, Bogotá
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COLOMBIA
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a. La Candelaria, Bogotá’s Old Town b. A local fruit seller in Cartagena c. Old Town, Cartagena d. Street art in Bogotá e. A plate of ceviche made during a cookery class with Chef Carmen f. La Catedral Primada in Bogotá g. View of Comuna 13’s open-air escalators from above, Medellín h. A collection of hats made in Cartagena i. Flowers growing on a building in Cartagena
reconnecting citizens with central Medellín. “Nowadays,” Adriana says, “elderly residents can take goods back to their homes, vote in the city center and visit friends in other barrios. The escalators have helped foster a sense of community.” The barrio is brilliantly decorated with bright murals that spread messages of love and cohesion. Walking around, you might see live street dancers, a result of education projects working to create unity among Comuna 13’s youth. Stop for a mango biche (a sour green mango popsicle) from a street vendor. In the afternoon, visit Parque Arví, a green space that stretches over 60 sq mi, located just outside the city. The park is easily accessed by an integrated public transport network and elaborate cable car system that has been instrumental in reforming troubled districts, reaching even the most isolated areas. The prices allow anyone, regardless of distance, to ride the metro for the same cost. Before hitting the park’s walking trails, stop by the farmers’ market. Try the café con queso – hot chocolate with a gooey slab of salty cheese plopped into it. Trust me – it’s better than it sounds.
CLASSIC CARTAGENA e
Sultry and Caribbean-fronted Cartagena is a place where people shake their hips unapologetically in the streets and the sunshine is relentless. Candy-colored houses line cobblestoned streets that echo with the click-clack of horse-drawn carriages. Bordered by large 16th-century ramparts, the colonial city center is full of visitors and locals, casually strolling along or using them as a viewpoint for admiring a fiery sunset. Their true purpose as a bulwark against pirate attacks (once a daily reality for the Spanish conquistador stronghold) is almost impossible to imagine now. A rum and chocolate tasting experience at restaurant El Arsenal also makes for an entertaining time (it’s never too early for rum here). Your guide talks you through the art of making the liquor, creating
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elaborate cocktails, and pairing the tastes with local chocolate. Watch as the bartender whips you up a coquito, blending coconut milk, cinnamon, vanilla and dark rum together to create a creamy concoction with a tropical twist. With a bit more bounce in your step, you can meet up with Chef Carmen, owner of a restaurant that’s putting Cartagena’s food scene on the map, as well as Moshi in Medellín, a more recent offering. You’ll head off to buy ingredients for a meal that you’ll cook together at Carmen Cartagena, her flagship restaurant. You’ll likely shop at buzzing, open-air Bazurto Market to pick up mojarra (a local fish) as well as ripe lulo (a tart citrus fruit) and coconut to flavor rice dishes. Take part in the cooking, or just watch Carmen at work, observing how she transforms raw ingredients into a plate of Caribbean and Creole-influenced cuisine. In the evening, it’s time to dance. The nights are silkily warm and everyone knows how to salsa. It doesn’t matter if you don’t, though
– someone’s always happy to show you. Make for Café del Mar, where you can dine al fresco or dance to live music in the rooftop bar. The ambience is infectious, with people spilling out of the cafe’s doors and into the street, beer in hand.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Direct flights from Boston to Bogotá are around six hours. When to go: Colombia is a year-round destination. That said, it can be very busy between December and April when the weather is drier and the coast isn’t too humid, so avoid this period if you’d like a quieter experience. Get me there: A ten-day tailor-made trip to Bogotá, Medellín and Cartagena starts from $2,705pp. For more information, please call one of our Colombia specialists on 1-833-703-1402. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 39
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YAMDROK LAKE, TIBET By Kara Frigon “Yamdrok Lake sits on the Southern Friendship Highway between Lhasa and Gyantse. At 5,000 meters above sea level, it feels like you’re touching the heavens. The sky looks like a great blue pool. White glaciers throw into relief dozens of multicolored prayer flags, yaks graze the mountainside, and the air rings with the sound of bells from nearby monasteries.”
Our specialists’ latest dispatches from Tibet, Italy, Iceland and Cambodia
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GET INSPIRED
SIENA, ITALY By Tylo Ward “Modern Siena is shaped by centuries of rivalries between districts known as contrade, which compete twice a year in the thrilling, sometimes-dangerous Palio horse race. Natives pledge lifelong allegiance to their contrada, often choosing friends and significant others based on these ties. On my last visit, my guide made me an honorary member of his Lupa (She-Wolf) District.”
TWIN CRATERS, ICELAND By Laura Robinson “In February, I set out on a group research trip to Iceland – a new Audley destination launching later this year. We explored the Golden Circle, snorkeled the silfra fissure, hiked through Thingvellir National Park, enjoyed pastries in Reykjavik, and even took a helicopter ride over the twin craters (pictured here).”
PREAH VIHEAR, CAMBODIA By Jack Tydeman “On my last research trip, and my sixth visit to Cambodia, I went on an exclusive temple safari, and stayed in a temple after it was closed to other visitors, removing me from the more touristy centers in Siem Reap. A comfortable tent and bed was set up for me, and I indulged in a threecourse dinner with full bar service – all of this in the wilds of Cambodia.”
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A cobbled classic One of Bordeaux’s winding streets; (right) take a cruise of the Bassin d’Arcachon
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48 Hours in...
BORDEAUX
From a wine-blending workshop to lazy coastal cruises, our specialist helps you squeeze every last drop of pleasure out of two days in Bordeaux WORDS BY LEANNE PROCTOR
DAY 1
11:30am
5pm
Wake up in your room at L’Hôtel Particulier, an imposing 19th-century townhouse in the central pedestrianized area of Bordeaux, and make your way to the breakfast room, where your food is made to order.
Stop at one of the many waterfront wooden cabanes and enjoy a light meal of oysters, freshly caught in the bay that morning, accompanied by local wine, bread and pâté. Afterwards, sail around Île aux Oiseaux (Bird Island), best known for its postcard-worthy stilted houses.
Attend a wine cruise on the Garonne River. Sip on local vintages as you sail past some of Bordeaux’s best-known landmarks, including the fountains at Place de la Bourse.
8am
2pm
Meet your driver in the lobby and depart for Cap Ferret, a coastal town southwest of Bordeaux. With your private skipper, you’ll take a cruise of the Bassin d’Arcachon in a traditional pinasse boat (pictured below), originally used by local fishermen to collect oysters in the bay.
After returning to your hotel, take a short stroll to the nearby Saint-André Cathedral to explore its wealth of history. Alternatively, you could follow the pedestrianized roads to the Opéra National de Bordeaux, where you can admire its stately neoclassical façade.
7am
7pm Disembark and walk along the quai (dock), stopping for a leisurely dinner in one of the city’s many restaurants – my favorite is La Brasserie Bordelaise on Rue Saint-Rémi.
SPECIALISTS’ TOP TIPS Make sure to explore both the Médoc and Saint-Émilion wine regions for a more well-rounded understanding of Bordeaux wines. Aislyn Emerson Wander through the warren of streets in the pedestrians-only area of the city, where you’ll find several tucked-away squares that boast boutique shops, cafes, and art shops. Careese Peters Have lunch outside in the small square by Saint-André for the best views of the cathedral. Samantha Sutherland AUDLEY TRAVELER | 43
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Vive la Bordeaux! (clockwise from top left) Bordeaux Cathedral; grape harvest; a vineyard in the region; pedestrian street in the Old City
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BORDEAUX
DAY 2 9am Sleep in late today, but be sure not to fill up too much on breakfast – you’ll be enjoying a number of food tastings during the day.
11am Meet your private driver in the lobby of your hotel and embark on a walking tour focused around the city’s food. You’ll taste many of the region’s best delicacies, including the Bordeaux canelé, a small custard-filled pastry that’s spiked with rum and vanilla and boasts a richly caramelized crust. Your guide will also take you into the cave of a 15th-century convent-turned-affinage (a cheese ager and purveyor), where you can sample a variety of local cheeses.
5pm After taking some time to digest, make your way to the Place aux Quinconces for a wine-blending workshop. Held
A fisherman’s dozen (clockwise from top right) Dine on oysters fresh from the Bassin d’Arcachon; a room in L’Hôtel Particulier and its courtyard
in a reclaimed townhouse, it begins with an introduction to the particularities of Bordeaux wines before you learn how to taste them like a professional sommelier, with a focus on identifying the unique aromas in each variety. Finally, you become the winemaker and create your own vintage, blending cabernet sauvignon and merlot to your personal taste.
7:30pm Make your way to Mama Shelter, where you can enjoy a cocktail on its eclectic rooftop bar. If you’re hungry, head out for a bite to eat at Le Carreau on Rue du Pas-Saint-Georges for traditional southwestern French fare. I recommend the duck confit – it’s the house specialty.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Flight time from New York City to Bordeaux is ten hours, likely with a layover in Paris. When to go: Bordeaux is a year-round destination, though June to August brings pleasant weather and the wine region is at the height of its growing season. Get me there: A ten-day tailor-made trip to southwestern France, including time in Bordeaux, starts from $4,455pp. For more information, please call Leanne or one of our France specialists at 1-855-593-2104
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TRAVELERS’TALES SHARE YOUR STORIES AT WWW.AUDLEYTRAVEL.COM/US/SHARE Local celebrities Everywhere the Hurndalls went, they were stopped for selfies
INDIA
Alan & Alison Hurndall traveled to India with Audley
I
t’s late afternoon in the coastal city of Chennai. Twenty hours ago, we were in England, slip-sliding through snow and ice in our winter boots. Now we’re sweating in the heat and sun, barefoot and jet-lagged, negotiating a jungle of pushbikes, rickshaws, scooters, and tuk-tuks. Welcome to India. We are at the start of a 950 mile road trip across the states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala. It’s a public holiday, and outside the Hindu temple – our first – there are thousands of people. It’s chaotic, but friendly.
The scene is a heady cocktail of noise and smells, incense fills the air, mixing with the aroma of the street food vendors, the scent of jasmine, diesel fumes and spices. People shout to make themselves heard above a cacophony of hooters and horns. At the temple’s entrance, a line of visitors jostle to deposit their footwear in a hut, others just toss their sandals and flip-flops onto a heap on the pavement. Flower sellers offer beautiful yellow and mauve garlands. Inside, a holy man greets us with a bow, his hands clasped together in prayer.
Kapaleeshwarar Temple dates back to the 7th century and is the size of a block of flats. It stands as a magnificent, colorful, if somewhat spooky attraction. A cast of myths and legends – gods (some halfhuman, half-animal) peacocks, elephants, snakes – stare down at us. Here they worship Shiva, the protector against evil and one of the most important gods in the Hindu pantheon. Whole families drop to the ground before his image, girls and women on their knees, boys and men flat out on their stomachs. A human line
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stretches around the block. They’re waiting to be blessed by the priests and have their hands smothered in holy ash, the remains of a sacrificial fire where wood soaked in oil and herbs is burnt. Devotees observe the ritual, wearing a red or white bindi on their forehead; they move clockwise around the temple, and nine times around the main shrine. Some even take selfies with the sacred cows. This is our first visit to India and, with our senses jolted into life, we’re already hooked.
HONK HORNS, PLEASE
Our trip was to take us on an engrossing journey across south India, through towns and villages, over mountains and along coasts, staying in cities, on rivers, plantations, at homestays and a beach resort. We had discovered quite quickly the first rule of the road in India: that there are no rules. They drive on the left, but that’s purely an opening negotiating
position. They actually drive left, right, center, and straight at you. Drivers overtake, undertake, pull out at junctions, on blind bends, and often travel the wrong way on one-way streets and highways. Pedestrians are way down the food chain of road users, which can include stray cows, dogs, chickens, monkeys, mongooses, even peacocks. In the country, whole herds of cattle and goats cross motorways, and farmers think nothing of drying their rice crop in the road, blocking one of the lanes. The thing is, nobody seems to mind. Horns are used as a method of communication rather than in a fit of aggression. I had soon worked out that Indians are actually excellent drivers, always expecting the unexpected, and judging every morsel of space with precision. Whizzing past an inch from your nose at 30 mph while crossing the road doesn’t even constitute a near miss. It’s as though every road user is protected by a mystical, magnetic force that prevents them ever crashing into each other.
KERALAN WATERWAYS
Two weeks in, and we find ourselves in ‘the Venice of India’ – the Kerala backwaters. We are floating on a houseboat, a former grain barge, which has been converted into a luxury vessel. These wooden-hulled boats are the length of a bowling alley and covered in thatch. They’re like floating cottages. There are 2,000 such crafts along the 560 miles of interconnected canals, rivers and lakes that make up the backwaters where freshwater from the Ghat Mountains meets the Arabian Sea.
We’d boarded at noon yesterday, cruising the waterways and canoeing the narrower inlets. The people here live off the waters and the fertile rice fields. They don’t seem to mind. Children, immaculate in their school uniforms, waved from the banks. Women did their washing in the waters, then slammed the dripping wet clothes on the obligatory flat stone. Apart from the skipper, engineer and a chef, who served a fish lunch and a buttered chicken masala dinner, we have the boat to ourselves. It’s now 5:30am and I decide to greet the new day from above. I slip out of bed and tiptoe upstairs. There’s a perfect stillness everywhere. The only sound is birdsong echoing across the water, lit by the fading blue moon and the shimmering lights of various vessels moored on the banks. There’s a 12-hour curfew from 6pm every day to give fishermen exclusive use of the river at night. But they’ve packed up. Even the mosquitoes are gone. Gradually, the sun stamps its golden glow over the paddy field beside us, creeping across the water. The first movement comes from the birds. A lone kite hovers above, egrets land in a huddle in the fields and, amazingly, whole squadrons, literally thousands of migrating birds, cross the bend in the canal ahead. It must be a navigation point. On the stroke of six, the boat opposite slips quietly from its mooring. Within minutes the commute has begun. A barge drifts by with a cargo of sand, then a fleet of college rowers practicing for their regatta, apparently a big event around here. A man emerges from his home to bathe in the freshwater canal. The sky changes color, now streaked with purple. It’s overwhelmingly beautiful. A breakfast of fruit and fried eggs is ready. The backwaters are awake. And if there’s a more magical dawn, I’ve yet to see it. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 47
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Moroccan majesty The Djemaa El Fna bustles in Marrakech; (right page) traveling through Essaouira and the High Atlas
MOROCCO
John & Judith Johnson traveled to Morocco with Audley
W
ithin minutes of landing at Marrakech Airport, we were whisked into the fast-track lane and through and out in 15 minutes. We later met people who’d spent hours standing in line. Our private car took us to the Djemaa el Fna, the large public square in the heart of the city, and, from there, our guide led us on foot into the middle of the medina (old city) to the exquisite Riad Monceau. We stayed in a spacious ground-floor room that opened onto the tranquil courtyard garden, which was set around a pool. Having arrived to our hotel in the morning, we were ready for our private guide to show us around the medina. Having been to Marrakech as a student, some half a century ago, I know how easy it is to get lost in the teeming madness of the
medina. Luckily, our private guide, Ali, was born and bred here. He appeared to know every single person in the old city and they him. He was proud to show off his city, taking us to parts that other tour guides don’t tend to reveal to visitors. As darkness fell over the Djemaa el Fna, the last rays of the sun turned the tower of the Koutoubia Mosque fiery red against the lowering backdrop of the High Atlas. Lamps, flashlights and cooking fires were lit and the great square gradually flooded with people, as if bubbling up from underground springs. Locals and visitors together mixed with Berber dancers, street traders and cooks at smoking barbecues – children and old folk alike revelled in the joyous insanity of this square, whose size and atmosphere surely can’t be matched in all the world.
ESSENTIAL ESSAOUIRA
When we were planning this trip, Emma, our specialist, urged us to spend some days on the Atlantic coast, even though it normally wouldn’t have crossed our minds to do so. After three days in Marrakech, our driver took us on the half-day trip across the Argan Valley (where yes, the goats really do stand in trees) to the fishing port of Essaouira. As before, we were met by our guide and led into the medina – less frantic than Marrakech, but no less historic. Originally a Carthaginian seaport with a later Portuguese fort, it’s more recently famous for being a Game of Thrones location: Astapor, home of the Unsullied. In the heart of the medina, we arrived at the Riad Watier to a warm and genuine welcome and another delightful stay.
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After Marrakech, Essaouira ran at a slower pace. The streets of the medina are wider and boast many fine restaurants, which are kept well supplied by hundreds of identical blue fishing boats in the harbour. And while we had learned to cook tagine and trimmings at the Maison Arabe in Marrakech, in Essaouira it was a pastry course that we were excited about.
GETTING RAISED BY THE ATLAS
The third leg of the trip saw us leave Essaouira early morning for the drive by private car back to Marrakech, then on into the High Atlas. If the riads Monceau and
Watier had exceeded our expectations, the Kasbah Bab Ourika completely smashed them. Built in the traditional Berber style of red, rammed earth, its austere exterior hides an eclectic modern hotel with a fine restaurant and glorious gardens, studded about with hidden, shady corners complete with cushioned sofas and mountain views. We resolved immediately to return some day for a long, lazy weekend. We took a camel ride with a private guide for just the two of us down the rocky road to the Ourika River as the sun set over the mountains. The hour on Hassan’s camels was a little uncomfortable, but saddle
‘OUR GUIDE SHOWED US TRAILS AND SIGHTS THAT WE WOULD NEVER HAVE FOUND ALONE’
soreness fades; great memories of the mountains, the sunset, the villages and the patient, plodding camels never will. The following day, we met our guide, Mojar, for a trek up to a village to have lunch with a Berber family. The adventure was a gem and will be a treasured memory of the trip. Mojar is a seasoned mountain guide who soon assessed what was a comfortable pace for us and showed us trails and sights that we would never have found alone. That left us with one more day to kick back and let the staff at the Kasbah Bab Ourika spoil us rotten. Then, our car arrived to speed us to the airport, where our guide (who had fast-tracked us in) sorted our paperwork and took us right to the security gate. Here, he wished us a pleasant flight, and thanked us for visiting Morocco. That’s right. He thanked us. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 49
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#TheAudleyWay We love receiving your updates on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. Even if you’re not currently traveling you can share images from your recent trips based on each edition’s theme. UNIQUE HOTELS
@catherine_chunks_turner Selous Riverside Safari Camp, Selous Reserve, Tanzania
@andrewmichaelashby Lord Milner Hotel, Matjiesfontein, South Africa
@joeystewart3130 Alila Fort, Bishangarh, Rajasthan, India
@franziska_schaerli Desert Nights Camp, Wahiba Sands, Oman
Cathy Tunstall Eco Tour Houseboat, Borneo
@ccbespokeyoga The Datai Langkawi, Malaysia
@colin.a.owen Anavilhanas Jungle Lodge, the Amazon, Brazil
@rebecca.explores Pangkor Laut Resort, Pangkor Laut Island, Malaysia
@_vickicooper_ Dhoni Suite, COMO Cocoa Island, The Maldives
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The summer 2019 Audley Traveler theme will be… beaches From the turquoise waters of Thailand lined with colorful longtail boats to the powder-soft sands on the Maldives, we want to see your favorite beach spots. To take part, write #TheAudleyWay and @AudleyTravel on your Instagram and Twitter posts. Alternatively, you can post directly to our Facebook wall or upload your image to www.audleytravel.com/us/social.
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FIND OUT MORE... To request a brochure please visit: www.audleytravel.com/us/brochures or call 1-855-838-8300
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Come and visit us for specialist advice Many clients find it an invaluable and enjoyable experience planning their trip in person with our specialists, and we welcome visitors to our office in the historic North End of Boston, MA. Feel free to contact us to schedule an appointment with a specialist for your chosen destination.
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