WINTER 2019
RELAXING EUROPE
Experience the countryside at its most laidback
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CONTENTS 4 First Sight
Spectacular images from our specialists’ latest trips: this edition, Borneo and Japan.
8Escape Routes
Travel news, from brand new stays to the latest flight routes. Drifting in Thailand, trekking in New Zealand and an update from our charity of the year, ShelterBox.
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Chilean Patagonia
Journalist Peter Duncan explores the wild landscapes of one of the most remote and beautiful corners of the planet.
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Top 6 New Experiences
From Colombia to Madagascar, our specialists recommend their top adventures for 2019.
22The Spirit of India
travels: South Africa, Chile, Singapore, and Morocco.
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A unique two-day stay, from cruising and cooking to getting close to the iconic cascade.
Our specialists reveal the best ways to gain an insight into the religions and rituals that define this truly holy country.
Head to Head: Cultural Fiji or isolated French Polynesia?
Hours In... Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe 3848
42Travelers’ Tales
The South Pacific offers far more than dazzling beaches- but which location is best for you?
Your stories and images: Nepalese highs and South African safaris.
30Rural Europe
Multigenerational Safari 46Q&A:
36Just Back From...
48Interview
Our team shares their favorite places in Europe to experience the languid and culturally rich countryside.
Updates from our specialists’
Our specialists offer their advice on how to plan the best safari for the whole family.
Moroccan guide Seddik Aassim.
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WELCOME
Dear Traveler
Contributors
Welcome to the winter issue of Audley Traveler. In this edition, our specialists offer inspiration for new adventures for the new year. On page 20, we introduce you to six of our most memorable experiences for 2019, from chocolate making in Madagascar to an exclusive peek of Giza’s Grand Egyptian Museum prior to its opening in 2020. Perhaps you’re looking to slow down and spend a bit of time reflecting on the upcoming year? On page 30, our Europe specialists share which countryside locations they like to visit to unwind. Finally, we know that the people that you meet along the way are one of the most important factors in the success of any trip. We’ve interviewed Moroccan guide Seddik Aassim – turn to page 48 to find out what he likes to show people who visit Morocco. Happy New Year.
Jacqui Lewis President & Managing Director, North America
77 N Washington St, 6th Floor, Boston, MA 02114 Telephone: 1-855-838-8300 Website: www.audleytravel.com The vacations featured in this magazine are suggestions only and will be customized to fit your travel dates and preferences. All prices quoted are exclusive of international flights and subject to change. Designed by Wanderlust Travel Media. CST#2117258-40 | Fla. Seller of Travel Ref. No. ST39468.
Peter Duncan Travel journalist Peter is an actor, former TV presenter and documentary producer. He recently traveled to Torres del Paine National Park, Chile, with Audley (p14). Any travel plans for 2019? The lakes and valleys of the Slovenian Alps. Luke Rogers Africa safari specialist Luke loves the diverse sights and sounds of Southern Africa, including the thunderous roar of the seventh natural wonder of the world: Victoria Falls! Any travel plans for 2019? Heading to Antarctica to check off traveling to my final continent. Allan Palmer Spain & Portugal specialist Allan lived in Spain for four years where he worked in tourism, taught English and earned a Masters Degree in Museum and Art Historical Heritage from the University of Madrid. Any travel plans for 2019? I have many friends and family in Spain, so I’ll focus primarily on the Iberian Peninsula.
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THINGS we’ve learned this issue
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Gauchos (Patagonian cowboys) drink mate, a tea made from the leaves of the yerba plant (p17).
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Famed author Beatrix Potter used to live, and found much inspiration, in England’s Lake District (p35).
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Durga Puja is a five-day festival that culminates in flower-draped idols being paraded through the streets, but preparation can be seen year-round in Calcutta (p27).
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Matatus are Kenyan taxis that are decorated extravagantly by their owners to receive more attention and, subsequently, more business (p21).
Images supplied by Audley travelers, staff and suppliers, Superstock, Robert Harding, Alamy, iStock and AWL W I N T E R 2019
On the cover Two windows in a wall, France
FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA FOR DAILY TRAVEL INSPIRATION Tag @AudleyTravel and #TheAudleyWay to share your travel photos with us.
Discover our favorite rural European stays on page 30. For more information, call our Europe specialists on 1-833-357-5639 or request a copy of our brochure at www.audleytravel.com/us/brochures
RELAXING EUROPE
Experience the countryside at its most laidback
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NIGHT WEAVING IN BORNEO Veronica Spann, Borneo specialist “On a recent visit to Sarawak, Borneo, I stayed with an Iban tribe in their communal longhouse. For most of the members of the tribe, the evening consisted of dancing and drinking copious amounts of homemade rice wine. However, for this woman the night meant finding quiet in the chaos through her art. As a weaver myself, I felt a certain sense of communion and felt compelled to photograph her, blissfully caught up in the moment.”
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FIRST SIGHT
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KONPON DAITO PAGODA, MOUNT KOYA, JAPAN By James Dennis, Japan specialist ”Set deep in the heart of Wakayama, Mount Koya is home to around 120 temples, with over 50 offering shukubo (temple lodging). Konpon Daito Pagoda is one of the most prominent buildings in the area and has been rebuilt several times (most recently in 1937) after multiple fires, mostly due to lightning strikes. On my recent visit, I woke at 6am to enjoy a traditional breakfast and to watch the morning ceremonies before exploring the town. Due to Mount Koya’s relatively isolated location, you often find yourself wandering around alone, which makes visiting a relaxing experience. Staying in a temple, hosted by monks, made this one of my most memorable stays in Japan.”
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FIRST SIGHT
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ESCAPE ROUTES
TRAVEL NEWS | FLIGHT DECK | CHARITY UPDATE | CHECK IN
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WHAT’S NEW
Drift off in Thailand Tucked away in a cove on Cheow Lan Lake, Panvaree The Greenery is a floating lodge backed by jungle-topped limestone cliffs. This new addition to Southwest Thailand offers a different way of exploring Khao Sok National Park. The lodge is reached by longtail boat and, during your stay, you can kayak across the lake, visit nearby caves or hike through virgin rainforest. Relax in the air-conditioned comfort of your floating cabin and enjoy dinner overlooking the karst-framed lake. For more information, please contact our Thailand specialists on 1-833-640-8006.
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ESCAPE ROUTES
Patagonia in numbers
19 miles
The length of the Perito Moreno glacier
FLIGHT DECK The latest flight news
Less than 5
Japan Airlines will launch a daily nonstop service between Seattle and Tokyo (Narita) starting from March 31st, 2019. This service will operate on a Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner.
People per square mile of land
Norwegian Air is adding a nonstop seasonal service from Boston to Rome and Madrid. Service to Rome will begin on March 31st and service to Madrid will begin on May 2nd. TAP Air Portugal is adding a new nonstop service to Lisbon from two major US cities. TAP will begin operating five round-trip flights per week between Chicago O’Hare and Lisbon on June 1st. They will also add five weekly round trips between Washington-Dulles and Lisbon on June 16th. In October 2018, Virgin Atlantic completed its first flight – from Orlando to London – using a fuel partly made from industrial waste gas. The cleaner, more efficient fuel converts waste gas from manufacturing into ethanol.
1.5 million+
Pairs of Magellanic penguins
Dash direct to Durban New direct flights from the popular hub of London Heathrow to Durban has made visiting South Africa’s third-largest city easier than ever. Sitting on the Indian Ocean coast, Durban is a lively, colorful, cosmopolitan spot – a great gateway for accessing the province and worth visiting in its own right. It boasts some of South Africa’s best contemporary artists and galleries displaying traditional Zulu artworks and textiles. Thanks to its multicultural population, the city’s culinary scene is also a highlight. You’ll find street vendors using Indian spices to create delicacies such as samosas and bunny chow (a hollowed half-loaf of bread filled with curry). For more information, contact our South Africa specialists on 1-833-640-8029.
356+ Glaciers in Patagonia
76 tons
Weight of the largest dinosaur – a Patagotitan mayorum – found in Patagonia
Visit Italy’s European culture capital With an estimated 7,000 year history of inhabitance, Matera is Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited city and now a 2019 European Capital of Culture. Known as a city of caves, it’s neighborhoods feature structures carved right into the limestone hills defining both the city and the experience of visiting. Having known for four years that Matera would be recognized in 2019 the city has been preparing, turning caves into unique hotels and restaurants, and is ready for the curious visitor to explore. Matera is located in Southern Italy a mere hour long flight from Rome making it an easy destination to add to any trip to Italy. For more information, please contact our Italy specialists on 1-833-640-8040. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 9
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CHECK IN
The most exciting new stays The Neem Tree, Udaipur, India Named after the tree that shades its pool, this eight-room hotel (pictured) has a boutique feel. There are views of the City Palace from the roof terrace, and hosts Helena and Manu ensure a memorable stay, thanks to their in-depth and invaluable knowledge of the city. Zuri Zanzibar, Kendwa Village Zanzibar, Tanzania Recently opened in July, this hotel is situated on a sunset-facing beach – a rarity on Zanzibar. It also features a funky, bohemian atmosphere and smart features, such as beds with individual cooling systems, putting it in a class of its own when it comes to style and technology on the island. Alkina Lodge, Great Ocean Road, Australia Set amid native forest, only a 20-minute drive from the Twelve Apostles, Alkina Lodge is a luxurious option near the Great Ocean Road. Its three fourbedroom lodges come with full cooking facilities or the option of chef-prepared meals. Futangue Hotel & Spa, Patagonia, Chile Located in virgin forest, this hotel allows you to experience the wilderness while staying in comfort. It has an indoor pool and sauna, and several communal spaces for relaxing: sit out on the porch or by a roaring fire.
Crowd-free Mount Cook Our new wilderness experience in New Zealand gives you an uninterrupted view of the Southern Alps heading off the beaten path in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park. After driving into the open tussock grasslands of the Hooker Valley, you’ll hike a short trail leading to Mueller Lake. You’re unlikely to encounter other visitors or hear
sightseeing helicopters whirring above. You’ll spend a few hours kayaking the lake, and might see distant rock avalanches thundering into the Mueller Glacier, before disembarking under towering Mount Sefton. For more information, please contact our New Zealand specialists on 1-833-640-8052.
Plastic bag ban in Botswana
New sails in Seychelles
As the drive to be eco-friendly strengthens, several African countries have been leading the way in banning the use of plastic bags and other plastic items, including Rwanda and Kenya. From November 1st, 2018, Botswana has followed suit. This ban extends to international travelers visiting the country – we advise not taking any plastic bags with you, as they will be confiscated and you may be issued with a fine. Beyond not taking plastic bags we also suggest traveling with minimal plastic to help support this movement in keeping Botswana’s ecosystem clean and healthy. For more information, please contact our Botswana safari specialists on 1-833-640-8037.
Discover Seychelles’ rich marine life and photogenic isles on our new catamaran experience. From Mahé, you can visit Sainte Anne Marine Park, one of the first protected marine areas in the region, which shelters six islands, coral gardens and seagrass meadows. Stop at Moyenne Island where giant tortoises roam and there’s opportunity to snorkel alongside turtles and manta rays. Alternatively, a boat from Praslin can take you to Grande Soeur Island, before snorkeling at Félicité or Coco Island beside eagle rays and turtles. For more information, please contact our Seychelles specialists on 1-833-640-8023.
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ESCAPE ROUTES
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CHARITY UPDATE
Supporting ShelterBox for another year
At the start of 2018 we aimed to raise $70,000 for ShelterBox, a charity that provides aid and hope to those who have lost their homes. Through a range of fundraising activities, from raffles to golf tournaments and pub quizzes, we have reached our target. This year, ShelterBox has sent teams to assess the aftermath of major disasters,
including the tsunami in Sulawesi and flooding in Kenya. The charity has provided essential items such as tents, tools and water purification kits to families in need. After seeing the impact of ShelterBox’s work, we’ve decided to support the charity for another year, increasing our total target to $140,000. This will help to rebuild the lives of around 400 families. To learn more about our partnership with ShelterBox, please visit www. audleytravel.com/us/about-us/fundraising
What to READ
What to WATCH
What to SEE
What to DOWNLOAD
After completing a ten-month round-the-world trip with Audley, David Moore has recorded his adventure in Turning Left Around the World. Read about his journey through 15 countries, exploring landscapes, wildlife and food along the way. Available now at Amazon.com.
The creator of Planet Earth has once again teamed up with Sir David Attenborough for a new Netflix show, Our Planet. The eight-part series promises to take viewers through some of the world’s most precious natural habitats. Netflix, out April 5th 2019.
For the first time Boston’s Museum of Fine Art will be displaying the work of Frida Kahlo alongside the arte popular that influenced her work. Frida Kahlo and Arte Popular will show from February 27th to June 16th. For tickets, visit www.mfa.org/tickets.
Using the Google Translate app, you can take a photo of text and instantly translate it. This feature is now supported in nearly 50 languages and will take away the challenge of deciphering menus and street signs on your travels. Available on iOS and Android. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 11
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ESCAPE ROUTES
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RECIPE
Crema Catalana By Allan Palmer, Spain and Portugal Specialist
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ecadent custard topped by a thin layer of caramelized sugar, crema Catalana is the southern relative of France’s crème brûlée. The contrast between the smooth, sweet custard and the bittersweet, blistered topping creates a satisfying end to a fulfilling Catalan meal. On my most recent trip to Barcelona, I had the opportunity to create this centuries-old treat with a local chef, Carlos, as the finale to our indulgent meal of seafood paella.
Ingredients Serves: 6-8 2 tbsp cornstarch 2½ cups whole milk A large slice of lemon peel (the whole peel, not just lemon zest) 1 cinnamon stick 5 large egg yolks ½ cup sugar Additional sugar to caramelize on top Fresh berries to garnish
Method 1. Bring the milk, lemon peel, and cinnamon stick to a boil. At the same time dissolve the cornstarch in a bit of water. Once the milk is boiling, beat in the dissolved cornstarch.
2. Remove the cinnamon and lemon peel from the milk and reduce the heat. 3. Beat the egg yolks and the sugar together until the mix turns a pale yellow. Slowly add the egg yolk mixture to the milk; stir constantly over low heat until thickened. 4. Once thickened, remove the mixture from the heat and pour it into ramekins. Let it cool for a bit, then cover in plastic wrap and let it chill for about four hours, preferably overnight. 5. Before serving, let the mix come to room temperature. Once it has, sprinkle a thin layer of sugar over each ramekin and caramelize the sugar with a kitchen torch. Top with fresh fruit and serve. Buen provecho!
Have you recreated a recipe we’ve featured in Audley Traveler? Or have you sampled a delicious local cuisine on your travels? We’d love to see your images of your favorite food and drink experiences. Tag your Instagram and Twitter posts with #TheAudleyWay and @AudleyTravel.
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SCHAERLI @FRANZISKA_
@STEVIEG52
@NATSGEOGRAPHIC
09/01/2019 15:57
DISCOVER
EUROPE WITH OUR NEW BROCHURE
Written by our Europe specialists, this brand new brochure is packed with our latest findings, hand-picked accommodations, and individually crafted authentic experiences
Start planning your journey to Italy, the UK and Ireland, France, Spain, and Portugal. Download our new brochure at www.audleytravel.com/us/brochures
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PATAGONIA
AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD Wild, remote, dramatic, almost supernatural – Chilean Patagonia feels like another planet, discovers journalist and former TV presenter Peter Duncan
Towering highs The Cordillera Paine loom over the azure waters of the Torres del Paine National Park
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CHILE
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here’s something to be said for reaching a destination late at night, and our arrival at the Explora hotel in Torres del Paine in Chile was certainly on the spectacular side of night-time arrivals. We were well into our third week of traveling through the myriad landscapes of Chile when we flew from Puerto Montt, itself 655 miles south of capital Santiago, even further south to Punta Arenas. The latter city is the major gateway to Torres del Paine National Park, seen by many as the spiritual home of Chilean tourism. Upon arrival at the airport around 7:30pm, we were greeted by a cheery employee from the Explora hotel who led us to a waiting car: a luxury minibus. Now, normally when confronted with the prospect of a four-and-a-half
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hour drive after a flight, you rarely find many glaring positives. But then you don’t usually find yourself in the midst of an alien landscape. A low-lying full moon illuminated this extraterrestrial scenery and added to the extraordinary notion of feeling like we were at the end of the world. We continued on towards the hotel, hugging the ocean on our left and the mysterious landscape on our right, and before long darkness descended. The only light left was that of the moon. Signposts flashed by intermittently until eventually we spotted the one we’d been waiting for: ‘Parque Nacional Torres del Paine’. From here the road twisted and turned and bumped, with gigantic shadows looming on either side until finally in the distance we spotted some twinkling lights. After a quick check
‘IN CHILEAN PATAGONIA, A SPECTACULAR VIEW ISN’T AN OPTION, IT’S GUARANTEED’
with the driver, we knew we’d arrived at our destination.
SETTING OUT
That first morning, waking up in what would be our home for the next few days, is one that I won’t soon forget. Rolling up our window blinds, we were confronted by the iconic panorama that is the Cordillera Paine. Moody-looking clouds weaved in and out of the mountains, which by no means demeaned the view, but in fact only heightened the peaks’ imposing nature. Happily, on our
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Cowboy culture Riding with a gaucho is a great way to explore the national park
second morning, we arose to clear skies and a red sunrise dappling the famous mountains. The hotel itself sits next to a glistening glacial lake, Lake Pehoé, which is a turquoise color due to the sediment contained within the melting glaciers that feed it. Here a spectacular view isn’t an option, it’s guaranteed. After a delicious breakfast, we had our first decision to make: which of the day’s tempting activities should we choose? In the center of the hotel there’s a board that lists a selection of possible excursions.
There are more than 40 ‘explorations’ in total, running at various times during the morning and afternoon, although some trips last a full day. Explora’s guides wait by the board for guests who signed up the night before, and for any newcomers (like us) who’d like to join in at the last minute. We first decided to try the Cornisas hike – named after the cliffs we were to climb – which saw us leaving the hotel on foot. With an ascent of 1,150 feet, a distance of threeand-a-half miles and multiple lookout spots,
Lake life The Explora sits on Lake Pehoé, and many excursions begin with a trip on a catamaran; breakfast is served at the Explora AUDLEY TRAVELER | 17
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the hike provides an opportunity to see the park from many different perspectives, particularly the ever-changing blue hues of Lake Pehoé. After the hike (which was bracing – it can get pretty windy up high), we tucked into a well-deserved lunch and pondered our afternoon actions. My son Arthur and I settled on a horseriding trip from a local gaucho’s stable. These are an excellent way to really sit back and take in the scenery. We hacked through forests, passed lakes and all the while had views of distant mountains. The highlight, though, was the condor circling above us with its distinctive white feathers. The ride ended with some traditional mate (a green tea made from the leaves of the yerba plant), taken with the gaucho himself back in his stable.
The atmosphere in the hotel was very relaxed, and the guides and hotel staff were warm and friendly, as well as being very helpful. Explora’s architecture is focused on connecting the traveler to nature, with wood playing a fundamental role in the hotel’s design. We also took full advantage of the spa and outdoor hot tubs in our quest for relaxation after tough days out hiking. The food on offer was excellent too, with a new menu each day that covered both local and international cuisine. Paired with superb Chilean wine, it left us very satisfied.
TREKKING TRIUMPH
Our second morning arrived and after deciding to ramp up the difficulty, we settled on the 10-mile French Valley
trek to the heart of the Cordillera Paine. To reach the beginning of the hike we boarded Explora’s catamaran and proceeded to glide over Lake Pehoé towards the imposing peaks of the mountain range. Our timing was good, as we were treated to a whole day of glorious sunshine. The first part of the trek consisted of a semifarcical criss-cross of hikers, as different groups set off on different treks. However, as we all spread out, we were able to walk at our own pace, and at times we had the track almost to ourselves. We skimmed along the bottom of the vast mountains, tracing our way through the plateau below with all manner of birds and wildlife surging into view before scurrying away. Eventually we began to
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CHILE Happy hiker Peter takes in the view on the path to the French Valley
ascend through dense forest towards the distant sound of a raging river. We emerged at the end of a trail to a swinging rope bridge with a sign clearly stating ‘one person at a time’. Once safely across, we were told we had reached the Italian Camp, the final destination for some of the hikers – but not us. We had another leg to our journey. Ahead was a steep 1,500-foot climb that culminated in sweeping 360-degree views of the towering mountains around us, the huge French Glacier and down into the valley below. As our group sat down for a picnic lunch in the sunshine, we heard a rumble growing louder and louder, which was not coming from our stomachs. In fact, a large avalanche came crashing down the glacier opposite from way up high. Once we had drunk in as much of this incredible scene as we could with our eyes (and cameras), we set off on our return journey. The hike back was surprising in that it felt very different to the trek there. Whereas before we had the looming mountains ahead of us, on the return they were replaced by lake views and the vast landscape of the park laid out in front. You can be certain our legs were grateful for a rest that evening. Once back at the hotel, discussions quickly turned to how to make the most of our final expedition.
Nevertheless, we had a serious treat in store. We chose the Glacier Grey hike, which was another full day, albeit with a slightly easier distance of seven-and-ahalf miles and less elevation gain. The catamaran took us farther along the lake this time, to a dock. From there we walked towards the Grey Refuge. Halfway up the ascent there are incredible views of the glacier, as well as the extraordinary extension of the Southern Ice Fields from above. The vast ice wall of the glacier is impressive enough from a distance, but happily we were able to take a boat up close to the towering walls, navigating through floating icebergs that stick out of the water like blue crystal shards. The sheer power and immensity of the ice is the most striking thing. As we sat staring at the glacier, we wondered where else in the world has such bountiful variety of landscapes as Chile, and particularly this southernmost corner of the world, so far away from everything else. Our last dinner was spent revelling in the experiences of the past three days, content in the knowledge that with dozens more explorations available, we could come back many times and still not do it all. As the time came to leave, we thanked Explora’s guides and staff, who’d made our stay what it was and boarded our vessel back to Earth, hoping to return one day.
‘THE SHEER POWER AND IMMENSITY OF THE ICE IS THE MOST STRIKING THING IN THE SOUTHERN ICE FIELDS’
EXPLORING THE ICE
We woke with a tinge of sadness that it was our last day at the Explora. On ice The hike to Grey Glacier reveals striking shards and icebergs
Flight information: Flying from New York to Santiago takes 10 hours, followed by a 3 hour 20 minute domestic flight to Puerto Montt. When to go: November to March is when the region traditionally experiences its most temperate weather. Get me there: A 13-day tailor-made trip to Patagonia, including four nights at Explora Torres del Paine on a full board basis, plus time in Santiago, El Calafate and Buenos Aires, starts from $8,995pp. For more information, please contact our Chile specialists on 1-833-640-8095.
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TOP 6
NEW ADVENTURES
NEW EXPERIENCES FOR 2019 New year, new adventures. Our specialists reveal some of the most exciting experiences that 2019 is set to bring...
Ants in Barichara, Colombia 1Eat
Recommended by Anna Barnard “Colombia’s colonial town of Barichara is often hailed as the most beautiful and well-preserved town in the country. You can while away your days wandering through the cobblestone streets, enjoying the fragrance of the ylang-ylang trees that perfume the air. The languid pace of life and dreamy natural beauty have inspired dreamers and artists for centuries. At night, you might find yourself feasting on stewed goat with a side of hormigas culonas (fatbottomed ants), a delicacy that the indigenous Guane have hunted for over 500 years.”
a Matatu workshop experience in Kenya 2Try
Recommended by Richard French “Driving across Nairobi, you will see (and hear) lots of matatus – local commuter taxis. These are privately owned and operated, and the more extravagant your vehicle, the more young people will want to be seen riding in it. As a result, operators are constantly upgrading their vehicles with ever brighter, more elaborate paintwork, speakers and extras. This experience introduces you to Mo, an artist and mechanic who has pioneered this craze. Visiting his workshop, you’ll hear the story of how he, as a young orphan, added a lot of color to the capital’s streets.”
behind the scenes at Giza’s the Bay of Islands Grand Egyptian Museum in New Zealand 4Go 5Sail Recommended by Sarah Whatman “Scheduled to open in 2020 in Giza, Egypt, the new Grand Egyptian Museum will display over 100,000 of the country’s ancient treasures. Even before the official opening date, however, you can visit its Conservation and Restoration Center. The tour, which is limited to just 50 visitors a day, gives you the chance to see its conservation specialists hard at work in their state-of-the-art laboratories. You’ll get an exclusive peek at the experts as they carefully restore many of the country’s precious relics, including items from Tutankhamun’s tomb, many of which have never been displayed in public before.”
Recommended by Emma Maidment “The Bay of Islands is, as the name suggests, a region blessed with many secluded coves. While plenty of larger vessels ply its waters, we’ve sought out an experience that will take you away from the crowds. The Ataahua (Maori for ‘beautiful’) is a luxury 40-foot yacht that accommodates up to four people and offers the choice of either a daytime or twilight sailing option. The Ataahua comes pre-packed with food – be it lunch or an evening platter – and there’s even the opportunity to take the helm yourself, or get involved with the many other aspects of crewing.”
For more information, please contact our specialists on 1-833-357-5600.
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a Tay village near Hanoi, Vietnam 3Visit
Recommended by Leo Felton “Vietnam is home to 54 different minority groups, each with their own history and customs. Just two hours north of Hanoi is a Tay village, which invites visitors to experience their way of life. It’s a welcome break from the fast-paced city, and gives a first-hand look at rural Vietnam. As you walk through the stilted houses, you’ll see tea processed by hand, be introduced to traditional medicines and sit down with a family for a shared meal. But be careful when complimenting the chef – I learnt that for the Tay, it’s bad luck to overly praise someone.”
a chocolate-making tour in Madagascar 6Enjoy
Recommended by Steve Upton “Indigenous Malagasy cacao, known as criollo, is quite rare and mainly used in luxury chocolate. During this workshop you can watch demonstrations by a local artisanal chocolatier, as well as getting hands-on yourself. Each stage of the chocolate-making process is carefully explained, and as you taste the chocolate at each stage, you’ll notice how the cocoa bean’s flavor develops as it’s roasted, then crushed, mixed with sugar (a process called conching), tempered and then turned into chocolate bars by your own hands. At the end of the workshop you’ll be an expert.” AUDLEY TRAVELER | 21
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Sacred rites A Buddhist woman holds a prayer wheel and beads 22 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
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THE SPIRIT OF
INDIA From Hindu festivals to Tamil temples, India is home to many religions. Our specialists suggest how best to immerse yourself in this diverse, spiritual nation
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B
irthplace of Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Sikhism, India’s home to at least nine religions in different parts of the country. You’ll find Himalayan monasteries, city mosques, Christian churches and Tamil temples. The best way to learn about India’s diversity is to immerse yourself in its religions, visiting places of worship, talking to guides or even traveling during a festival. Here, our specialists recommend their favorite experiences...
Window on Amritsar The Golden Temple appears to float on the ‘pool of holy nectar’
THE GOLDEN TEMPLE, AMRITSAR, PUNJAB By Emma Chorlton There are over 20 million Sikhs in India – a large number, but just a small percentage of India’s 1.3 billion population. The majority of the Sikh population lives in the northern state of Punjab, where you’ll find the city of Amritsar and the Golden Temple. For years, I’ve been fascinated by Sikh customs and rituals, as well as the inclusive nature of the religion, so on my first visit to Amritsar, I was keen to visit Sikhism’s holiest temple. The temple appears to float in the middle of the Amrit Sarovar, the ‘pool of holy nectar’. Known to Sikhs as Harmandir Sahib, it’s part of a larger complex called a gurdwara (‘door to the guru’) and can be entered from four sides, representing openness and acceptance. Before entering the temple, I removed my shoes and placed my pashmina over my head, imitating the ladies with their saris. As my guide walked with me into the gurdwara, we stepped through a small pool to bathe our feet. Beckoning me to the water’s edge, a group of smiling ladies used gestures to tell me that this section was a women-only bathing area. It was full of activity and chatter as they descended the steps and held chains to submerge themselves in the holy water. I didn’t join them but appreciated their warm welcome. Later, I returned to see the temple complex in the evening. My guide showed me into the langar (community kitchen), where volunteers prepare free food for around 100,000 people each day. Astounded by the vast cauldrons of dhal and rice, I relished the opportunity to help roll dough for chapattis. We then sat crossedlegged on the floor and joined the feast: anyone is welcome, no matter what race or religion.
Bake off The kitchen at Amritsar’s temple complex cooks for 100,000 people a day
Get me there: A 14-day tailor-made trip to Punjab starts from $3,475pp. For more information, please contact one of our India specialists on 1-855-838-8478. 24 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
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INDIA Holy water The locals prepare for a wash in the Ganges
BANARES/VARANASI, UTTAR PRADESH By Jason Toms Banares, more commonly known as Varanasi, is one of India’s oldest continually inhabited cities – predating Rome by about 700 years. For followers of Hinduism and Jainism, it is considered the holiest of the Seven Sacred Cities and is well-known for its many riverside ghats (a series of steps leading down to a stretch of holy water). For many Hindu worshippers, Varanasi is the location in which their deceased loved-ones obtain Moksha (a form of enlightenment) and are then released from the cycle of death and rebirth. I was initially apprehensive about visiting Varanasi, as visitors generally describe it as a visceral experience that will challenge everything you know about life and death. Upon my arrival, I was taken by small wooden motorboat down the longest river in India, the holy Ganges. Hindus view the Ganges as far more than just a body of water. In fact, this celestial river is personified as the
Goddess Ganga who is known for her purity and ability to wash away sin. As I traveled down this celebrated river, I immediately took note of the ladies hovering at the edge of the ghat, wearing bright and colorful saris, clasping their hands together to collect water from the river to gently pour over their faces. The men were more courageous, often submerging their entire bodies in the holy river in a ritual of purification. Children looked onward from a distance, some dipping their feet in the river while others enjoyed a game of splashing loudly. Elsewhere, a group walked by carrying pieces of sandalwood in preparation to perform a cremation ceremony by the river’s edge. Evenings provided the opportunity to watch an Aarti ceremony in which fire is used in a performance to pay reverence to Lord Shiva. Few cities remain so unchanged from the hands of time but this is definitely one of them. Get me there: An 11-day tailor-made trip to Varanasi starts from $3,120pp. For more information, please contact one of our India specialists on 1-855-838-8478. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 25
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BEYOND THE BEACH
Divine light The Meenakshi Temple is lit by candles, while its towers are brightly decorated with thousands of figurines
MEENAKSHI TEMPLE, TAMIL NADU By Hannah Deadman The southeastern state of Tamil Nadu, with its population of approximately 80 million, is home to a multitude of religions. Though the vast majority of the people here practice Hinduism, you’ll also find Christianity, Islam and Jainism. In the southern half of the state, perched on the Vaigai River, the city of Madurai is home to the Thirumalai Nayak Palace and Ghandi Museum, as well as to the vast, brightly decorated Meenakshi Temple. This sprawling complex of gopurams (gateway towers), galleries, shrines and inner temples is adorned with thousands of carvings and paintings of gods and goddesses, most importantly, Meenakshi, an avatar of the Goddess Parvati – the divine consort of Lord Shiva. Entering the temple, I moved closer to my guide, afraid of losing him among the throngs. The dim interior was lit only by candles, but most of the light was muted by the thick haze of incense and the bodies of worshippers. There was a heavy floral scent, too. Every woman and girl squeezed into the temple was adorned with big garlands, every deity was covered in bright petals, and yet more blooms were being presented as offerings to the gods. My head vibrated with
the continuous hum of chatter, chanting and prayers, individually quiet but loud en masse. An important pilgrimage site, Meenakshi is dedicated to the wedding of Meenakshi and Sundaresvara, and dates back to the sixth century BC. More than 33,000 brightly colored figurines adorn the temple, both inside and on the towering exterior. With the crowds, we shuffled through the halls and past the lotus ponds to the Hall of a Hundred Pillars. The temple’s best known for its closing ‘going to bed’ ceremony. Every evening, Brahmin priests carry the image of Shiva through the temple to be reunited with
his wife, Meenakshi. The procession is accompanied by chanting, cymbals and plumes of incense. Shiva’s then laid to rest for the night in goddess Meenakshi’s sanctum. Nowhere in India have I felt as transported as my visit here, where I was warmed by seeing multiple generations hold hands, make offerings and pray together. Get me there: A 16-day tailor-made trip to Tamil Nadu starts from $3,855pp. For more information, please contact one of our India specialists on 1-855-838-8478.
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INDIA
DURGA PUJA, CALCUTTA By Niall Causer India’s oldest port, Calcutta is considered the country’s cultural capital. This vibrant, lively city is known for its colonial history and architecture, Mother Teresa’s charitable headquarters, the Victoria Memorial and the vast Howrah Bridge. I’ve visited several times, but my most recent trip coincided with festival season – a first for me. Though it usually occurs in mid-October, the Durga Puja festival requires year-round preparation, which means that you can gain an insight into the festival without traveling during the official celebration dates. The Hindu festivities honor Shakti, the female principal of divine energy, as well as celebrating the victory of the goddess Durga over the evil demon Mahishasura. The city’s skilled artisans create Durga idols and statues all year. Production is highest in Kumartuli and, as my local guide led me through this potters’ quarter, we peeked through open doorways to see the workers sculpting. Some paused to tell us why they’d chosen to depict that particular part of the Hindu story. Most of their pieces were larger than I’d anticipated – exquisitely sculpted and adorned with fabric. One seamstress was hand-sewing sequins to a sari to ensure the goddess looked her best. Locals also descend on Calcutta’s flower markets to purchase flower arrangements worthy of their deities. We wandered through, admiring the perfumed displays and the Howrah Bridge, which dominates the skyline. Incense fills the air, matched by the strong floral scents, while the local tradesmen holler over each other. My guide told me that during the five-day festival, practitioners offer prayers to welcome the goddess, conduct rituals to honor different female energies, and hold evening folk dances. The flower-draped idols are paraded through the streets towards their final destination, the Hugli River. Standing in the packed streets, I was overwhelmed by the joyous chaos: music, chanting and the scent of cooking filled the air and everyone danced as they watched the statues go past. Petals and paint The build-up to Durga Puja sees artisans making sculptures and flowers being sold
Get me there: A 13-day tailor-made trip to Calcutta starts from $3,182pp. For more information, please contact one of our India specialists on 1-855-838-8478. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 27
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HEAD TO HEAD
FRENCH POLYNESIA
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The South Pacific offers so much more than magnificent beaches
he South Pacific islands are renowned for their spectacular coastlines and beaches, but they also have a hidden side. A rich Polynesian culture and timehonored traditions – from welcome rituals to food to rugby – are just a few reasons to visit beyond the beach. French Polynesia is home to remote and still pristine islands, while Fiji has a cultural diversity unrivaled in the South Pacific. Our specialists argue why you should prioritize one destination over the other – but which speaks to you?
FRENCH POLYNESIA
By Jenna Sweig French Polynesia is seen as a classic beach destination, but there’s so much to the region. You can lounge in its polished resorts, but you can also explore outlying archipelagos with wild, undeveloped shores. French Polynesia’s Society Islands (which include Bora Bora and Tahiti) offer peace, tranquility and refined properties. Think white sand, lagoons and overwater bungalows, all complemented by a backdrop of mountains, rainforest and waterfalls. Your trip could take in beautiful Bora Bora. Here, you can stay in a villa balanced on stilts above the sea and sit on your deck,
watching the sun sparkle on the lagoon. If you fancy something more active, you could go diving to observe the rich marine life of the outer reefs – beginners are welcome. If you have an appetite for adventure, make your way to Papeete on Tahiti (French Polynesia’s capital) to board a 14-day expedition cruise to the remote Marquesas Islands. En route, the Aranui V takes you through the lagoons of the Tuamotu Islands: pancake-flat, tiny in dimension, and sparsely populated. You might see copra (dried coconut kernels) desiccating in the sun – the islanders’ main source of income.
Your first glimpse of the Marquesas is likely to be their dizzyingly vertical cliffs. They rise straight out of the ocean and are smothered in vegetation. This part of French Polynesia is a far cry from Tahiti – it looks completely unexplored. When I visited I thought: is this how the first Western explorers felt when they laid eyes on these islands in 1595?’ The primary focus of the Aranui V is to carry supplies to the more remote islands of French Polynesia, and it acts as a lifeline to their small populations. Even today, the Marquesas remain relatively untouched by tourism. Life on the Marquesas Islands is all about simple pleasures. Landing on the island of Nuku Hiva, for example, you might see the dock lined with locals eagerly anticipating the ship’s cargo. People might be playing a ukulele and singing songs, while others cook meat to feed the workers as they unload. The Marquesas also contain treasures you won’t see elsewhere in the South Pacific: only here can you explore archaeological sites containing the most significant tiki structures outside of Easter Island. Get me there: An 18-day trip to French Polynesia, including 14 days on the Aranui V, starts from $9,978 pp. For more information, contact Jenna or our French Polynesia specialists on 1-833-640-8050.
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HEAD TO HEAD
vs FIJI
but which part of this dazzling region should you choose? FIJI
By Chris Wilson The true appeal of Fiji is its geographical, natural and cultural complexity, though its history alone is intriguing. The islands have long been fought over by tribes from Melanesia and Tonga. Fiji’s native tribe, the iTaukei, learned to defend their homeland with efficiency and hostility. The islands’ isolation was ended by the arrival of Wesleyan Christianity; today, Fiji has a warm, welcoming society. Today, the islands have evolved from a majority of iTaukei to a diverse mixture
of cultures. Even though there are differences, the new belief system is that, no matter your ethnicity, you’re Fijian. One of the best places to stay in Fiji is Matangi Island. The Douglas family have farmed and looked after Matangi since the 1860s and, like them, you might soon feel you have a special relationship with this place. After a heartfelt song-and-dance greeting, Matangi reveals its treasures. Rooms are beautifully decorated with traditional Fijian tapa cloth. The dining and entertainment are incredible, and the reefs are alive with dozens of fish, including parrotfish, stingrays, and small reef sharks.
As well as relaxing on Matangi, you can take part in a number of intimate cultural encounters. You might, for example, like to attend a church service in the Yasawa Islands. For me, the vitality and honesty of the singing reminds me of visits to church as a child. The only thing that the Fijians are more passionate about than religion is sport – particularly Rugby Union. The sevens format is worshipped; every island has a team. Children are taught the importance of kicking the oval-shaped ball as soon as they can walk. And, again, this is something you can see for yourself if you journey beyond the beaches and visit Fijian villages. Once, in a small village on the island of Qamea, I got a delighted reaction when I told the locals that I come from the town of Rugby in the UK and my great grandfather made the original Gilbert balls used in the earliest international games. Time and time again, it’s the passion shown by the Fijians that can reshape your experience of this country from ‘just a beach destination’ to an unforgettable, culturally layered community. Get me there: A 12-day tailor-made trip to Fiji starts from $4,867pp. For more information, please contact Chris or one of our Fiji specialists on 1-833-640-8050. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 29
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RETREAT IN THE EUROP
Europe doesn’t just boast classic cities. Beyond the great capitals, it’s easy to
Emerald idylls A lakeside cottage and small boat in Connemara, Ireland
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OPEAN COUNTRYSIDE
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sy to slow down, relax, and become immersed in local culture and traditions
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here are so many reasons to visit Europe that planning a trip can overwhelm you. Should you concentrate on the cuisine, the scenery, the culture and history, or meeting local people? Our advice would be to live like a European. Locals across Europe prefer a laid-back pace, and will sit for hours with a coffee and friends in an open-air cafe, spend all day fishing in a mountain river or laze away a warm evening playing petanque. Here are some of our favorite places to slow down, giving you time to recharge and truly experience life in Europe like a local.
THE RHÔNE-ALPES, FRANCE By Samantha Sutherland Often referred to as the ‘Tuscany of France’, the Rhône-Alpes region offers not just rolling hills and medieval villages, but also the clear waters of Lac d’Annecy, the towering peaks of the Alps and slopes of vineyards. You can hike in the mountains around Chamonix or Lac d’Annecy, or simply breathe in the mountain air while indulging in a wine-and-cheese tasting in Lyon, France’s gastronomic capital. My favorite way to spend the day is by going on a hike through the Chamonix region, with a stop for a sumptuous picnic of local meats, cheeses and wine in a grassy Alpine meadow overlooking Mont Blanc. At a minimum, I suggest spending at least two days here, to give yourself enough time
Peak perfection Views from Lac d’Annecy
to settle into rural French life. Allow for three or four days if you also want to explore Lyon and venture into the celebrated Burgundy wine region in addition to hiking and experiencing the local cuisine. Your stay: Hôtel Beau-Site Talloires. A small, boutique hotel on the shores of Lac d’Annecy, Beau-Site Talloires dates back to the late 19th century. Overlooking the lake, its lawns sweep down to a grassy beach, with mature trees shading the dining area. You can rent boats and electric bikes, and there’s a great selection of walking trails
nearby. A leisurely private boat or public ferry takes guests into the heart of Annecy, a pretty hub of canal-side streets, medieval buildings and lively restaurants. Get me there: An 10 day tailor-made trip to Lyon, Burgundy wineries, Lac d’Annecy and Chamonix in France, including a stay at Hôtel Beau-Site Talloires and private hiking experience near Mont Blanc starts from $6,020pp. For more information, contact Samantha or one of our France specialists on 1-833-640-8073. White magic Chamonix sits below the Mont Blanc massif
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EUROPE City style Évora is a charming spot for a historic stroll
ALENTEJO, PORTUGAL By Kevin Crotty Covering south central and southern Portugal, the Alentejo is a dry, dramatic landscape filled with sunbaked vineyards, cork oak forests and vast wheat fields punctuated by small villages of whitewashed houses. You can see remnants of the region’s long history in the city of Évora, which boasts Moorish alleyways, intact medieval walls, Roman ruins and a Gothic cathedral. I think the Alentejo produces the best of Portuguese cuisine. Regional dishes focus on seasonal, local ingredients including fresh game, Iberian black pork, peppery olive oils, wild mushrooms and a wealth of sheep’s milk cheeses. Spend the day exploring the scenery and visiting some of the best wineries of the Alentejo, indulging in delicious private tasting and food-pairing experiences. I suggest spending two or three days in the region, including time to visit Évora. Your stay: São Lourenço do Barrocal. This rural retreat is set on a farm estate that’s been in the same family for more than 200 years. Today, the farm’s kennels have been converted into a chic farm-to-table restaurant and the former chicken house doubles as a
small shop. The property also boasts a spa and its own winery where you can enjoy tastings or guided tours, as well as stables for rural riding lessons. The estate is part of a Dark Sky Reserve and by night you can go stargazing at the Alqueva Lake Observatory.
Get me there: A 10 day tailor-made trip to Portugal’s Douro Valley, Lisbon and Porto, including a stay at São Lourenço do Barrocal, starts from $5,050pp. For more information, contact Kevin or one of our Spain specialists on 1-833-640-8077.
A taste of Portugal Enjoy delicacies fresh from the Alentejo’s varied landscapes
Boats to Bora Bora An aerial view of the approach to Bora Bora; (above) a traditional tiki structure and a typical warm local welcome
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EUROPE
Cast away in Ireland Try you hand at fishing in Connemara
CONNEMARA, IRELAND
DOLOMITES, ITALY
By Andea McLaughin Connemara is dotted with unspoiled loughs, mountains, bays, coves, woodland and rivers. Native ponies roam free across this wild terrain, which is broken only by a few small towns and villages. On your visit, you can go hiking in the mountains or fishing in the rivers and lakes, which teem with salmon and trout. The region’s also known for its art galleries and hand-crafted products, especially in Connemara’s main town, Clifden, and in smaller Roundstone. You can spend a day with a guide to learn about local sea- and land-farming traditions. I loved the sheep dog demonstration and the chance to try my hand at sheep shearing, as well as the boat trip where I met shellfish farmers and indulged in seafood. I also took a walk along the ‘famine road’, passing abandoned villages and discovering more about the famine that devastated Ireland in the 19th century. I recommend spending a couple of days in the area, exploring by car, including time for hiking or fishing. Your stay: Ballynahinch Castle. During your stay in one of Ireland’s finest hotels, you can go salmon fishing or clay pigeon shooting and follow walking trails through the estate’s woodland. The castle boasts a fine-dining restaurant as well as a traditional Irish pub.
By Caroline Quinn Located in northeast Italy, the Dolomites region boasts jagged mountains and rolling valleys that are dotted with Alpine villages and laced with hiking trails. Gondolas or chair lifts allow even those who don’t want to hike to ascend to the glacial lakes and rifugios (mountain huts), which provide hearty meals with mountain views. Sitting so close to the Austrian border, you’re likely to find German or Austrian dishes such as späetzle (similar to gnocchi) and cheese dumpling soup, alongside Italian meals. One of my favorite things to do in the area is hike around the Cinque Torri with a private guide, stopping for food and history at an old rifugio. Three days in the Dolomites
will give you time to slow down and enjoy the Italian lifestyle as well as soak up the views. Your stay: Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa. Providing glamour amid striking surrounds, the Rosa Alpina’s well-appointed mountainstyle rooms and suites offer a luxurious base for exploring, and the hotel offers several award-winning restaurants. There’s also a spa and relaxation complex, and an array of activities, including walking, golf and cycling. Get me there: An 8 day tailor-made trip to Verona, the Dolomites, and Venice, including a 3 night stay at Rosa Alpina Hotel and a guided hike around Cinque Torri starts from $6,575pp. For more information, contact Caroline or one of our Italy specialists on 1-833-640-8040.
In the pink The sunset glow on the Dolomites is known as the enrosadira
Get me there: A 7 day tailor-made trip to Dublin, Galway and Connemara in Ireland, including a stay at Ballynahinch Castle and a private seafood and farming experience starts from $3,540pp. For more information, contact Andea or one of our Ireland specialists on 1-833-640-8071. 34 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
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Take to the Lakes The Lake District is paradise for hikers, and for those who simply love a good view
LAKE DISTRICT, ENGLAND By Jackie Roth Situated in the northwest of England, the Lake District National Park has been immortalized by some of the UK’s finest poets and artists. Outdoor enthusiasts are likely to enjoy hiking on the park’s many trails, which might take you past England’s highest mountain or its deepest lake. Those looking for less energetic ways to enjoy the area’s natural beauty can explore any of the cafes, pubs and shops that you’ll find in the region’s villages and towns. I love relaxing into English life with afternoon tea, especially with a rural view of lonely farmsteads and sheep scattered across the hillside. I was fortunate enough to take tea in the garden of Beatrix Potter’s marital home with an expert who lives there. From this secluded spot, there were views across the road to Hill Top, the house where she used to write her books, and is now a museum. I suggest spending at least two days in the Lakes to fully appreciate the countryside lifestyle and explore at your own pace. Your stay: Forest Side Hotel. Housed in a romantic Gothic mansion near Grasmere, the fully renovated Forest Side Hotel offers accommodation befitting of royalty. Though it’s secluded, thanks to its quiet location among the trees, you’ll find many shops and restaurants just a short taxi ride away.
A real treat Take afternoon tea in the former home of Beatrix Potter
The hotel has a head gardener, in-house sommelier and even a Michelin-starred chef.
BEST TIME TO VISIT:
Get me there: A 7 day tailor-made trip to London, Oxford and the Lake District in England, including a stay at Forest Side and a behind-the-scenes Beatrix Potter afternoon tea experience starts from $5,430pp. For more information, contact Jackie or one of our UK specialists on 1-833-640-8069.
During the winter months, the French Alps and the Dolomites are snowcovered. The summer months bring large numbers of visitors to Europe in general. Therefore, we suggest visiting during the autumn months of September, October and November. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 35
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Our specialists’ latest dispatches, from South Africa, Singapore, Chile, and Morocco
SABI SAND WILDTUIN, SOUTH AFRICA By Tyler Protano-Goodwin “I always get excited when I’m back on safari. My expectations are high as I sit alert, looking for animals. On subsequent game drives I remember the true wonder of the experience – the anticipation of the unexpected. Not knowing if we are going to see a lion stalking a Cape buffalo, or a baby elephant playing, or a blazing sunset followed by the twinkling Milky Way makes the journey just as memorable as the result.”
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GET INSPIRED
PATAGONIA, CHILE By Josh Laredo “The highlight of Torres del Paine National Park was undoubtedly the hike to the base of the ‘Towers‘. While at the Las Torres lodge I had the chance to cover part of the trail on horseback, which saved my legs from giving out! The pinnacle of the trip was sitting at the top of the trail (3,000ft), braving the elements, and marveling at the towers still another 6,000ft above me!”
SOUTHEAST ASIA By Mary Cropper “I’ve never been on a train like the Eastern & Oriental Express. Starting in Singapore and ending in Bangkok, I felt magically transported back to an era when rail travel was the epitome of opulence. Each night I enjoyed a nightcap while listening to the pianist play, before retreating to my room, which was ornately decorated in dark woods and fresh flowers.”
SOUSS VALLEY, MOROCCO By Olivia Snow “The former home of hyperrealist Chilean painter Claudio Bravo can be found near Taroudant, amid the palmeraies of the Souss Valley. Presently, the palace functions both as a unique hotel and living museum. As I rode around in Bravo’s own horse-drawn carriage, I could sense that this place was far more than his creative refuge; his studio has been preserved as he left it.”
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Water wonder The local name for Victoria Falls is Mosi-oa-Tunya (‘the smoke that thunders’); (right) try a canopy tour via zip line
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48 Hours in...
VICTORIA FALLS ZIMBABWE
There’s more to these wondrous cascades than just fantastic views – spend two days here to try cooking, fine dining and canopy flying WORDS BY LUKE ROGERS
DAY 1 7am Wake to the sound of Mosi-oa-Tunya (‘the smoke that thunders’) before enjoying breakfast in the garden at your hotel, Ilala Lodge, with views of the falls’ rising spray.
8am Join a local resident for a two-hour stroll around Victoria Falls town to meet some of the talented artists, jewellers and sculptors that reside here. There won’t be a strict route or timetable, so you can spend time chatting to locals and going behind the scenes of small businesses.
Your guide can tell you about the journey of David Livingstone, the first European to see the falls in 1855 and who named them after the Queen of England.
11am
4pm
Head to the edge of the Zambezi gorges for a two-hour guided canopy tour. After a full safety briefing, follow your tour leader along nine zip wires. The rainforest below will likely be teeming with birdlife, and you might spot elephant. Zipping across the width of the gorge, you’ll have fleeting views of the Zambezi’s rapids and Victoria Falls Bridge.
Join a sunset cruise along the Zambezi. After a welcome drink and introduction from the captain, you’ll head upstream, exploring small islands and riverbanks while looking out for wallowing hippo, bathing elephant and birds such as egrets and fish eagles. Drinks and refreshments will be served on board.
SPECIALISTS’ TOP TIPS Visit the rainforest in the afternoon – there are fewer people and the light creates rainbows in the spray. Russell Nash
6pm
Wear shorts or quick-drying pants and sandals when visiting the falls – you’re likely to get wet from the spray and this will help you to dry off quicker. Georgie Brown
Return to your hotel to freshen up in time for dinner at the award-winning restaurant, The Palm. The menu changes often, but includes a variety of local dishes as well as a choice of artisan gins and South African wines.
Request a KAZA visa when you arrive – this allows you to cross between Zimbabwe and Zambia so you can see the falls’ full expanse. Louise Roberts
1pm Enjoy lunch at the Lookout Café, which overlooks the Zambezi, before exploring the footpaths and viewpoints of the Victoria Falls Rainforest, taking in the views of the cascades.
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The full falls In 48 hours you can enjoy fine dining, spot wildlife, relax at Ilala Lodge and admire the cascades
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VICTORIA FALLS
DAY 2 6am Head out early for a sunrise boat cruise. A continental breakfast will be served as the sun rises through the morning mist. The river is quiet at this time of day, making it easier to spot birds such as African skimmers, jacanas and pied and malachite kingfishers.
Cooking and cruising Learn to make an African stew to fuel your adventures on the Zambezi
10am Head to Ko Mpisi village, a traditionally run homestead. Here, you’ll meet the village chief, Chief Mpisi, who’ll tell you about the area’s rural culture, traditions and lifestyle. You can chat to him about traditional healing techniques, local farming practices and small-scale conservation, and see a typical set up of a farming village.
12 noon Return to Victoria Falls town to browse the curio market before heading to the esteemed Victoria Falls hotel to enjoy lunch on the colonial-style terrace.
2pm Join a ‘Pot and Paddle’ experience. First, a top chef will guide you in creating a traditional African stew, slow-cooked in a potjie (a three-legged cast-iron cooking pot), which is placed in the embers of a fire for around three hours. All the ingredients will be provided: choose from beef, lamb, fish, vegetables,
herbs and spices. While it simmers, you can take a short game drive through Zambezi National Park, looking out for wildlife such as elephant, buffalo, baboons, giraffe, zebra and lion. Then take to the river in an inflatable dinghy, paddling slowly and enjoying a sundowner drink. The afternoon will end with a three-course dinner under the stars, with your own potjie as the centerpiece.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Flight time to Johannesburg International Airport from New York is approximately 16 hours. It is a two-hour flight from Johannesburg to Victoria Falls Airport in Zimbabwe. When to go: Victoria Falls is a yearround destination – it is always a spectacular sight though views differ depending on water levels. Levels are highest March to May and lowest September to December. For arguably the best views, visit between June and August – the water flow is impressive but there’s not so much that the spray obscures your view. These are also good months for game watching in southern Africa’s parks and reserves. Get me there: A ten-day tailor-made trip, including three nights in Victoria Falls, starts from $5,520pp. Victoria Falls combines well with a safari in South Africa, Botswana, Zambia or Namibia. For more information, please call Luke or one of our safari specialists on 1-833-640-8021. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 41
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TRAVELERS’TALES SHARE YOUR STORIES AT WWW.AUDLEYTRAVEL.COM/US/SHARE
Himalaya high Treks here weave amid the world’s highest peaks
NEPAL
Linda Dale and her friends traveled to Nepal with Audley
L
inda Dale, Ann Brown and Maggie Edwards have returned from their adventures in the Nepalese Himalaya. Here are some diary extracts from part of their five-day mountain trek in the foothills, which took them on a loop from Pokhara through the Annapurna range.
FRIDAY, MARCH 23RD
Sun was forecast for today, so we made an early start to escape some of the heat. By 7:30am we were on the steep staircase up to Himalaya Lodge Ghandruk, 6,500 feet
above sea level. The sun was going to be strong and our legs certainly had to be too. When we booked this trip, we said we wanted a challenge, and we were certainly rewarded with one. Looking up as we trekked was not an option, as the sight of rows of steps fading into the distance was somewhat discouraging. It was always best to look out across the river, which gradually became smaller. The vastness of the mountain slopes became more and more apparent, and at times the scale and beauty was almost too much to take in.
We saw monkeys, an owl and an eagle, and watched advancing mule trains as they managed their staggering loads on the unstable scree of the pathways. As we climbed higher, the people seemed more wearied, more sun-lined and stooped in their daily battle to maintain shelter, food supplies and warmth in such a beautiful but harsh environment. We reached our destination of Himalaya Lodge after seven hours. The mist had already settled and as we fell early into bed aching and exhausted, my mind kept
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TRAVELERS’ TALES
returning to one particular conversation. Earlier in the day, we had rounded a corner in one of the many villages we passed, and encountered an old lady sitting on the terrace of her one-roomed house. Her legs and feet were awkwardly twisted beneath her body. Sanu, our guide, sat beside her and talked at length in Nepalese. Sanu explained to us that an illness in childhood had caused the malformation of her limbs. By the time we left, she was laughing and waving, and phone numbers had been exchanged. Sanu had explained to her that she was now the woman’s adopted daughter and, if she wanted to talk, she was to ring. Later in the day Sanu’s phone rang and our new friend was anxious to pass on her greetings to us. It was wonderful to see the warmth and care between the generations of the Nepalese, and to witness the true meaning of family here.
Village views Settlements perch high in the Nepalese hills; Linda, Annie and Maggie with their guides and porters
SATURDAY, MARCH 24TH
Tranquillity prevailed today. We were woken at 5:45am by a tap on the window and a steaming cup of tea at our door. “Sunrise on the mountain ma’am.” We threw on some clothes and staggered out to the grass veranda. The mountains, which had been obscured by mist on our arrival, stood towering into the deep blue sky. A small shaft of sunlight brushed the top of Annapurna II, creating a glistening diamond on its peak. It was impossible to take in the vastness of these 23,000 foot monsters, but we gained some sort of perspective by glimpsing the pinpricks of buildings on top of a forested mountain half its size in the foreground. As the minutes passed, the light grew in breadth and intensity, gradually easing its way across and down the mountain sides, throwing broad lines of alternating shades across the peaks and beyond. The air reverberated with bird song. Nature could not have painted a more perfect setting. Yesterday’s climb had tested our reserve to the limits but this moment was our reward. Breakfast was served on the terrace and my gaze never wandered. Then the sides of one of the mountains started to slide. Within seconds a vast cloud of snow swirled into the air, creating a massive white shroud, which fell slowly and silently down into the valley. It was over in a couple of minutes. We sat looking at our porridge, wondering how many other people could say they ate their breakfast while watching an avalanche on one of the tallest mountains of the world. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 43
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SOUTH AFRICA
Amanda and Timothy Clark traveled to South Africa with Audley
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safari holiday is full of excitement, fresh air, excellent food and good company. We stayed in three lodges in the north of South Africa: Marataba Safari Lodge, Marataba Mountain Lodge (which offers both walking safaris and game drives) and Madikwe Safari Lodge. We took our game drives in a Land Cruiser, which allowed everyone an excellent view. As is common, the first animals we spotted were small herds of impala, followed by the brindled gnu (or wildebeest), with stately kudu and zebra not far away. We learned from our guide that different species of herbivore stick together as protection against predators. Each evening we stopped for sundowners. In Africa the sun descends quickly, plunging the landscape into blackness. The temperature drops dramatically, so we put on extra layers ahead of our night drives.
On one, we sat for several minutes listening to the sounds of the bush, hoping to hear the roar of a lion. Instead, we were mocked by the throaty chuckle of a hippo. Our guide drove just a few feet before his spotlight picked out a white rhino, its flank reflecting the light back at us. Then, after the vertical take-off of a night jar made us jump, our guide picked up the fresh tracks of a lioness in the sand. We followed them slowly. Eventually, our vehicle caught up with her – we spent at least 20 minutes watching her amble about. She was completely at ease with us following her, pausing to scent mark, and shaking her paws disdainfully as she stepped in puddles of water.
LED TO THE LEOPARD
Evening drives tended to be exciting as the carnivores were on patrol. We saw
both male and female lion, brown and spotted hyena and two sightings of leopard. Twice we escorted lions on their evening search for prey; during daylight hours we only witnessed sleepy lionesses, digesting their latest meal. Leopard were much more difficult to see, and required great patience from our guides. We followed tracks that would suddenly disappear, only to be spotted going in a different direction. The determination of our guides paid off, however. Our first fleeting sighting of a leopard was after an exhilarating drive through thornbush thickets: a large male who was most definitely on a mission. Our second sighting was of a female that we’d unsuccessfully tracked the previous day. We found her the next morning, sitting under a tree that used
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Safari style Amanda and Timothy Clark were blown away by the brilliant game-watching in South Africa
to be a favorite haunt of her mother. We watched her change position, stretch and yawn for several minutes. Then she stood up and walked a few paces to bury something before leaping up into a tree to eat: an impala.
WILDLIFE WONDERS
Other memorable sightings included warthog families and a gaggle of mongooses that had made their burrows in the remains of an enormous spent termite mound. We also watched a herd of elephant that included very young calves. One, aged about four weeks, tried to take a dust bath with comical results, as it failed to coordinate its trunk and the dust. On another occasion, we watched newborn giraffe calves, their umbilical cords still attached, cavorting around their mothers.
When we came across a troop of baboons, we were told that if we watched them for long enough we’d recognize human characteristics. Sure enough, there was a judge presiding over his court. Another surprise was seeing a white rhino bull in our path. He stamped his feet and tossed his head at our vehicle for several minutes, slowly advancing before tiptoeing stealthily backwards into the undergrowth. Senses are heightened while walking, especially when following a track that other animals use. It gives a different perspective to your safari. While animal sightings are rare, walking gives you the opportunity to identify animals’ tracks and dung. You’re also able to enjoy the scenery and learn about ecology. Twice while on foot we happened upon the dung of a black rhino and its tracks,
but never saw one, even though we were close enough to hear its munching. Unlike its relative, the white rhino, the black rhino is unpredictable and can be dangerous. On both occasions our guides beat an orderly retreat. One walk took us along a riverbank in search of an elephant herd that we’d seen the evening before. Instead, we came across four white rhino. We watched them for a while before they ran off into the thorn bushes, becoming instantly hidden from view. The camouflage abilities of wild animals were truly astounding. Going on safari leaves you full of admiration for the very knowledgeable guides. The accommodation is first class, and the chefs are extremely talented. It’s a trip that I highly recommend and hope to experience again. AUDLEY TRAVELER | 45
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Q&A
ASK THE EXPERTS...
MULTI-GENERATIONAL SAFARIS
As more families of all ages are going on safari together, our experts answers the most commonly asked questions we receive... MEET OUR SPECIALISTS
Katie Sherman
MIke Herscot
Molly Gustafson
Tom Wilkinson
Hailey Landers
Q A
Which area would you recommend for a multi-generational safari? Kenya is my top pick for a large family group because it offers so much more than just amazing wildlife, it’s easy to come up with activities to appease a wide set of interests. For example, meeting the Maasai or Samburu people while your kids join in a soccer match in the local village is something that can have a lasting impact on all ages. You can also visit projects like the Reteti Elephant Sanctuary to learn about conservation, or finish your stay with time at the beach. Even the safari itself can be diverse – with options to explore on foot, by horseback, as well as fly camping. Kenya also has many options for families to rent a private home or sections of camps. Kenya Airways new nonstop flight from JFK to Kenya, also makes travel more seamless for young families. For families looking to try their first safari, I would also be hard pressed to not mention South Africa. You can see so much on a short safari drive adapted to shorter attention spans, and the wildlife areas are accessible so a few days on safari works well with time in Cape Town and visiting Victoria Falls, for example. South Africa also boasts safari reserves where malaria precautions aren’t necessary, which can be a deciding factor especially for young families.KS
Q A
What is the minimum age for children to go on a safari experience? There are many different safari activities, and some are only possible for older children. While minimum ages differ from country to country, a good guideline would be that all children are welcome to go on safari, though if they are younger than 12 it is common to be required to book a private guide and private vehicle. To go gorilla and chimpanzee tracking you must be 15 years or older. MH
Q A
Will there be any activities tailored especially towards children? Some incredible children’s programs have been introduced at some of our favorite safari camps, with trained and enthusiastic guides. The benefit of this is while the adults relax in the middle of the day, the children will have fun with the guide making bows and arrows, turning a termite mound into a pizza oven, and learning about the tracks and dung left by smaller critters around the camp. Activities are flexible and varied, depending on what the family enjoys doing at the time, and there is always a huge focus on learning, conservation and appreciation of nature.MG
Q
We’d ideally like to all stay together on safari, is this possible?
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Not only is it possible to stay together on safari, it’s an advantage! There is no better way to connect with nature and each other than by staying at an exclusive-use property in the bush. Some lodges offer multi-bedroom villas that cater specifically to small groups, creating a private atmosphere with your very own chef, safari ranger and even butler. Other smaller camps allow groups of varying sizes to book the entire property at no additional per person charge. Beyond the obvious advantages of exclusivity, it is exceptional value for money. Not only do you get to explore the most thrilling regions of Africa with your closest friends and family, you do it at a fantastic price! TW
Q A
What’s your top tip for a large family traveling together on safari? The dynamic and age range of your group are the most important details to consider when planning your safari. The right lodge can make a huge difference, so be specific with your specialist. A safari lodge is more than a place to rest, they include dedicated naturalists, full days of game drives plus activities and all your meals. A few really stand out from the pack when it comes to creating meaningful and memorable experiences for all ages in your group. HL
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The hot seat (clockwise from this) A boy gazes out from the tracker chair; elephant; a family watches river wildlife in Kruger; giraffes
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In conversation with...
SEDDIK AASSIM In September we held our annual training workshop for our guides in Morocco and asked what inspires them. Among them was Seddik Aassim,, who has been guiding in Morocco for over 35 years and is a local tour director and operations manager 48 | AUDLEY TRAVELER
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INTERVIEW Shifting sands Camel trekking amid the desert dunes; (right) hospitality, mosaics and minarets in Morocco; (below) Seddik Aassim
TRAVEL HIGHLIGHT “Visit Rabat’s Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art to see a side of Morocco that guests often miss.”
What inspired you to become a guide? I grew up on the coast, in an area that’s popular with overseas visitors. When I was younger I used to help visitors with directions and point them to different sites within the town. I really enjoyed showing them around, which made me think about becoming a guide. What qualities are most important for a guide to have? To be patient and really listen to what guests want, which may not always be in what they say. Sometimes you have to read their mood and look for other clues so that you can adapt the tour to make it as memorable as possible. What is your favorite thing to show clients traveling to Morocco? I really enjoy talking about everyday life here and giving www.audley.com
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visitors an insight into our cultural differences, as well as highlighting how many cultural values we share. Morocco is perhaps much more liberal than people expect and I enjoy helping people to really learn and understand this. What do you love most about guiding here? I love seeing the guests surprised by the beauty of the country and by the historical and cultural richness on offer. There’s so much in Morocco to explore – historic souqs, Roman ruins, a beautiful coastline and, of course, the endless expanse of the desert. I also love working with Audley to develop new experiences and find new ways to promote Morocco. I’ve learned not to simply accept things as they are,
but to always look for new ideas and exceed guests’ expectations. What motivates you professionally? The feeling that I’m an important element in showing the best that Morocco has to offer and giving visitors happy memories of their time here to look back on. Looking forward, is there anything new in Morocco that you’re particularly excited about sharing with visitors? I am fascinated by the recent Palaeolithic discoveries at Jebel Irhoud. The ancient Homo sapiens remains found here pre-date those found in East Africa and are changing how people understand the timeline of human evolution. I love that Morocco is now a key part of that story.
The four pictures at the top of the page were taken by Morocco specialist Olivia Snow on her latest research trip AUDLEY TRAVELER | 49
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#TheAudleyWay We love receiving your updates on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. Even if you’re not currently traveling you can share images from your recent trips based on each edition’s theme. LANDSCAPES
@enjmaidment Egmont National Park, New Zealand
Cathy Tunstall Colca Canyon, Peru
@albacastr0 Sunrise in Sri Lanka
Andy Roberts Bora Bora, French Polynesia
@tom_pegs Mount Wellington, Tasmania, Australia
@EmmaChrltn Jawai, Rajasthan, India
@mark.tfd Big Buddha, Hong Kong
@ic.atnyc Torres del Paine National Park, Chile
@ReySincJackie Machu Picchu, Peru
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The spring 2019 Audley Traveler theme will be… unique hotels From safari lodges to cowboy ranches and forest cabins, we want to see the best places you’ve stayed on your travels. To take part, write #TheAudleyWay and @AudleyTravel on your Instagram and Twitter posts. Alternatively, you can post directly to our Facebook wall or upload your image to www.audleytravel.com/us/social.
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FIND OUT MORE... To request a brochure please visit: www.audleytravel.com/us/brochures or call 1-855-838-8300
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Come and visit us for specialist advice Many clients find it an invaluable and enjoyable experience planning their trip in person with our specialists, and we welcome visitors to our office in the historic North End of Boston, MA. Feel free to contact us to schedule an appointment with a specialist for your chosen destination. France
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