AURORA AUTUMN 2014
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AUTUMN 2014 ISSUE
DIRECT TO DUBLIN IN AN HOUR AND A BIT
Go green
Mod magic
History man
LOW IMPACT Holidays in harmony with the environment are growing in popularity
GAELIC GREATS A treat’s in store for fans of traditional music, song and dance from the Highlands and Islands
SCOTS INVADER Tony Pollard on Robert Bruce’s younger brother and the art of making TV programmes
highlands & islands airports
aurora autummn 14 ad pages_cover spots 12/08/2014 12:16 Page 2
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3-5 welcome and contents_03-05 contents 12/08/2014 11:28 Page 3
CHECK IN
03
WELCOME
FÀILTE ...gu iris an fhoghar aurora, irisleabhar dha
...to the autumn issue of aurora, the magazine for all customers of
gach neach-ceannach aig Puirt-adhair na
Highlands and Islands Airports.
Gàidhealtachd agus nan Eilean. Tha sinn ag obair trang an t-seirbheis as
We work hard to provide you with the best possible service at
fheàrr as urrainn dhuinn a thoirt dhuibh aig
our 11 airports – located at Barra,
ar 11 puirt-adhair – suidhichte ann am
Benbecula, Campbeltown,
Barraigh, Beinn nam Fadhla, Ceann Loch,
Dundee, Inverness, Islay, Kirkwall,
Dùn Dè, Inbhir Nis, Ìle, Baile na h-Eaglais,
Stornoway, Sumburgh, Tiree and
Steòrnabhagh, Sumburgh, Tiriodh agus Inbhir
Wick John O’Groats.
Ùige Taigh Iain Ghròt. Tha iomadh artaigilean san iris seo a
In this issue you’ll find a
chuireas an ùine seachad agus a bheir
variety of articles to entertain and inform you on your travels. We take a look at the
fiosrachadh dhuibh air ur slìghe. Tha sinn a’ toirt sùil air
many attractions of Dublin, the latest
na tàlaidhean a th’ ann am Bail'-Ath-Cliath, far a bheil an
destination easily reached by direct daily flights
itealan a-nis a’ sgèith dìreach gach latha a Inbhirnis.
from Inverness. We present an introduction to some of the
Tha sinn a’ toirt ro-radh dhuibh air àitean fuirich agus cur-seachadan air feadh na Gàidhealtachd a bhios a’
accommodation and activity providers all over
dèanamh oidhirp shonraichte a thaobh turasachd uaine –
the Highlands who make an effort to operate in
feallsanachd a tha a’ lùghdachadh an droch bhuaidh a th’
a sustainable way – an approach that has been
aig luchd turais ’s aig gnìomhachas air an àrainneachd.
labelled green tourism. As leisure activities go, few are more exciting than whitewater sledging, and we present an introduction to the sport. As an organisation, we are committed to supporting the Gaelic language, and in this issue our latest Gaelic feature looks at the forthcoming
Tha sinn cuideachd a’ toirt dhuibh ro-radh air a’ churseachad spreòdach, càrn-slaodaidh air an uisge geall. Mar bhuidheann, tha sinn fo chùmhnant taic a thoirt dhan Ghàidhlig, agus anns an iris seo, tha an artaigil Gàidhlig a’ coimhead air a’ Mhòd Nàiseanta Rìoghail ri teachd, a bhios ann an Inbhir Nis am bliadhna sa. Tha am Mòd a’ moladh ceòl Gàidhlig, òrain, dannsa
Royal National Mod, which this year is to be
agus ’s e tachartas sònraichte a bhios ann dha tòrr
held in Inverness.
dhaoine.
It’s a massive celebration of Gaelic music, song and dance, and for many people will be a
Ge b’ e dè phort-adhair a tha sibh a’ cleachdadh an diugh, tha sinn an dòchas gun còrd ur turas ruibh.
highlight of an eventful year. Whichever of our airports you are using today, have a good journey and enjoy your magazine. Inglis Lyon, Managing Director, Highlands & Islands Airports Limited
• AUTUMN 2014
AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK
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CONTENTS
04
highlands & islands airports
24 Air travellers’ magazine Autumn 2014 Volume 6 number 2
Managing editor • Neil Braidwood Editor • Don Currie Designers • Fiona Binning, Daniele Carotenuto, Sarah Slater
Advertising sales • Simon Fraser 01463 732223 x 240
0131 556 2220 aurora-mag.com FOR HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS AIRPORTS LTD Kirsteen Adams 01667 464212 kadams@hial.co.uk
Mod stars – the Glenfinnan Ceilidh Band
30
Aurora magazine (ISSN: 1759-9717) is published four times a year by CMYK Design. The magazine is free to airport users. Follow us on Twitter: @aurora_mag CMYK Design, 91 East London Street, Edinburgh EH7 4BQ. Tel: 0131 556 2220. Email: editor@aurora-mag.com Web: cmyk-design.co.uk © CMYK Design 2014 Please note that unsolicited manuscripts are not accepted. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without prior permission. Editorial material and opinions expressed in aurora do not reflect the views of Highlands & Islands Airports Ltd or the publisher. Highlands & Islands Airports Ltd and the publisher do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Products and services are subject to change without prior notice. Highlands & Islands Airports Ltd, Inverness Airport, Inverness IV2 7JB Printed in the UK by Pensord
Unspoiled – Loch Morlich in the Cairngorms
• AUTUMN 2014
3-5 welcome and contents_03-05 contents 12/08/2014 11:29 Page 5
AUTUMN CONTENTS
Our cover FREE COPY
Fair
AUTUMN 2014 ISSUE
DIRECT TO DUBLIN IN AN HOUR AND A BIT
Go green
Mod magic
History man
LOW IMPACT Holidays in harmony with the environment are growing in popularity
GAELIC GREATS A treat’s in store for fans of traditional music, song and dance from the Highlands and Islands
SCOTS INVADER Tony Pollard on Robert Bruce’s younger brother and the art of making TV programmes
highlands & islands airports
Regulars Halfpenny Bridge, which spans the River Liffey in Dublin, is one of the best-loved sights in an energetic city soon to have a direct daily flight from the Highlands.
06 News Catch up on the latest stories from your region and beyond
10 The big picture Think you know Rothesay? Well, you may not have seen it from this angle
13 Viewpoint Volunteering makes a big difference – especially when thought goes into it
14 Events Competitions
win
You could win a pair of tickets to the Country Living show in Glasgow, page 7
Contributors Mairi Bertram A native Gaelic speaker, originally from Lewis, Mairi now balances a busy career in media relations with raising her children in Inverness. For this issue of aurora she gives an insight to this year’s Royal National Mod, which she is keenly looking forward to.
Our pick of what’s coming up
Michael Gill
40 Room report
The phrase “man of many talents” applies to Edinburgh-based Michael, whose design skills are prized by publishers of magazines, books and newspapers. He’s also a keen photographer who loves to fly high, using a microlight, to capture images such as the one on our Big Picture spread. He’s a fine viola player, too. www.michaelgill.eu
Claybokie, at Mar Lodge Estate
43 Essentials What’s on, where to eat and stay
50 My autumn Tony Pollard, history man, is busy
Features 18 Irish highs
Richard Rowe
Tourism can be environmentally friendly, writes Richard Rowe
Richard Rowe is a freelance outdoors writer and editor based near Peebles in the Tweed Valley. For this issue of aurora he looks at the growing demand for green tourism, in which holidaymakers seek to minimise impact on the environment while maximising enjoyment. www.richardrowe.co.uk
37 Take the plunge
Thanks also to
Need a thrill? Then Don Currie recommends whitewater sledging
Paul Reddish and Rebecca Strahan
Now’s the time for a mini-break in Dublin, suggests Nikola Mossop
24 In the Mod Mairi Bertram looks ahead to the great celebration of Gaelic culture
30 Go green
AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK
06-9 news_news 11/08/2014 14:54 Page 6
NEWS
6
Better view
Alps here we come SKI holidays in the Alps are within easy reach of the Highlands, with tickets now on sale for flights from Inverness to the Swiss snowsports capital, Geneva. Flybe’s popular Geneva service offers a flight every Saturday between 20 December and 28 March 2015. Fares are from £49.99 one way, including taxes and charges. Flights will depart Inverness at 12 noon, arriving at 15.20. Return flights will leave Geneva at 16.00, reaching Inverness at 17.20. Inghams is offering packages to more than 20 resorts from Inverness this winter, with a range of top French and Swiss resorts available, including Méribel, Val Thorens and Alpe d’Huez in France, and Zermatt, Verbier and Saas Fee in Switzerland. Inglis Lyon, managing director of Highlands and Islands Airports, said: “We are delighted that Flybe is launching a second winter season to Geneva. With a superb choice of world-class ski resorts within each reach, Geneva is the perfect winter destination.” To book visit www.inghams.co.uk or call 01483 791114.
THIS design for a popular site in the Highlands is to become reality after winning a national architectural competition. The contest was held to find ways of enhancing the beauty of a viewpoint on the Caledonian Canal at Laggan, and it was won by Sean Douglas and Gavin Murray. The judges praised their attractive and striking design in timber, which uses the facilities building to draw attention to the view of Loch Lochy. Another contest, to inspire schemes for a site on the A939 Cockbridge to Tomintoul road, in the Cairngorms, with a view of Corgarff Castle and Ben Avon, was won by John Kennedy. As part of the Scottish Government’s Scenic Routes Initiative, young architects were invited to design installations that would celebrate, and improve access to, the nation’s best scenery. Environment secretary Richard Lochhead said: “This is a great project to harness the creativity of young architects and will ensure people can fully appreciate our beautiful countryside.”
Let the music play ARE you a traveller who can’t be without music, but is often without battery power or far from a mains socket? If so, the Rugged Ruckus solarpowered Bluetooth speaker may well be the answer. Just clip it to your rucksack, letting it absorb the sun’s rays during the day, and then come sundown you can connect it wirelessly to your smartphone or tablet to let your tunes fill the air. Its rubber casing shrugs off knocks, and it’s showerproof. Not only that, but it will charge up another device, such as a smartphone through a USB socket. It weighs just 530 grams and has built-in loops to attach to your backpack. £89.99, www.surfstitch.com
Visitors to Edinburgh who want comfort and convenience at an affordable price have a new option in Motel One, just opened at the West End of Princes Street. With double rooms from £69 a night, the hotel has a mix of lavish, regal décor and quirky contemporary furniture. Details at www.motel-one.com
• AUTUMN 2014
Dubai, easily reached from Inverness via Amsterdam with KLM, keeps getting more exciting. Breathtaking rides at the Aquaventure Waterpark at Atlantis, The Palm include a slide that propels riders through a shark-filled lagoon, and the world’s first slide within a slide. www.atlantisthepalm.com
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A taste for high art
Competition
THE Rembrandt Tower, Amsterdam’s tallest building, is to turn its top-floor boardroom into a restaurant for two weeks, giving diners unforgettable views of the city. Cooking for this special art and culinary experience is by star chef Wilco Berends. Diners will enjoy their meals surrounded by a unique Rembrandt collection from the Rembrandt House Museum. On a clear day, Utrecht, The Hague and even Rotterdam can be seen from the room, which is opening to the general public for the first time to mark the anniversary of the artist, who died in Amsterdam on 4 October 1669. Meals may be booked between 22 September and 4 October, and the city is easily reached from Inverness on direct flights with Flybe. www.rtboardroom.nl
WIN a pair of tickets to the Country Living Christmas Fair in Glasgow’s SECC this November. Be inspired by the roomsets and craft workshops on the day, browse some of the stalls, and buy unique presents for friends and family. There’s a food theatre too, so you can make a whole day of it! To be in with a chance of winning a pair of tickets, enter your details online and cross your fingers… bit.ly/aurora-win www.countrylivingfair.com/glasgow/
Property in safe hands AIRPORTS take up a lot of space and tend to contain many buildings – and the 11 airports operated by Highlands and Islands Airports are no exception. For the first time, the organisation has someone dedicated to making sure all property at its sites is used to the best possible effect. Jeff Collins, below, has joined the staff as building and property manager to take an overview of all property issues, including lettings and maintenance. He says: “My initial priority will be getting our understanding and knowledge of the estate up to scratch. We are a big landowner and it is imperative that we make the best use of our property. We want to maximise revenue and also make the best use of what we have from the point of view of our customers and communities. I’m very excited by the possibilities of the job.” Jeff, 56, is a general practice surveyor and joins HIAL from Allied Surveyors in Inverness, having lived in and around the city for 30 years.
Emirates airline has spent £2 million on a new passenger lounge at Glasgow Airport. As well as offering a place to wait for flights in comfort, it will showcase top Scottish products such as Loch Fyne smoked salmon and Glenmorangie whisky. Amanda McMillan, airport managing director, and Sir Tim Clark, Emirates president, are pictured with guests and colleagues.
Manchester is one of the UK’s top business and leisure destinations – and it’s about to get easier to reach it from Inverness. Flybe is introducing a third daily flight, leaving at 6.45am, Monday to Saturday, from 27 October. The new service is also ideal for international connections. To book, visit www.flybe.com.
AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK
06-9 news_news 11/08/2014 14:55 Page 8
NEWS
8
Making waves SCOTLAND’S stormy seas are home to more wave and tidal energy devices than the rest of the world combined, and the country is leading the race for this new form of sea power. The world’s largest wave energy project (off the Isle of Lewis), the world’s first consented tidal stream project (in the Sound of Islay) and Europe’s largest tidal stream array (in the Pentland Firth, between Orkney and Caithness) are three examples. In all, Scotland has 25 per cent and 10 per cent of Europe’s tidal and wave energy potential respectively. While financing these cutting-edge projects, then connecting their innovative machinery to our ageing electricity grid, remains a challenge, the waves being
made in Scotland’s far north are being felt across the globe. And keeping ahead of the pack requires tireless effort and collaboration. On 23 and 24 September, hundreds of those at the forefront of that race will come together at Scottish Renewables’ Marine Conference, Exhibition and Dinner to discuss the issues that could make or break their sector. Lindsay Leask, senior policy manager at Scottish Renewables, pictured left, said: “In such a young industry, collaboration is key. Issues like grid connections and electricity market reform have real impacts, and will all be on the table for discussion in Inverness.” For more information see bit.ly/srmc2014 or call Lisa Fraser on 0141 353 4986.
Follow a star HIGHLANDS tourism could be in for a boost thanks to Outlander, the forthcoming television drama based on the novels by Diana Gabaldon. VisitScotland has come up with an online itinerary to inspire visitors to follow in the footsteps of the heroine, Claire Randall, played by Caitriona
Richard Clubley has spent much of his life visiting Scotland’s islands – 65 so far – despite living in Sheffield. He has had many adventures in that time, the best of which he tells in a very enjoyable new book, Scotland’s Islands (Luath, £9.99). With foreword by Mairi Hedderwick and illustrations by Liz Thomson.
• AUTUMN 2014
One of the best-loved Scotch brands, Bowmore Islay Single Malt Whisky, has launched three luxury malts aimed at discerning travellers. Black Rock, £44.99, Gold Reef, £59.99, and White Sands 17Year-Old, £79.99, are inspired by the landscapes of Islay, where the distillery has stood on the shores of Loch Indaal since 1779.
Balfe, and see sites associated with the story. It includes the Highland Folk Museum in Newtonmore, the ancient stones of Clava Cairns, the ruins of Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness and the Glenfinnan Monument. But whereas in the story Claire literally goes back in time, you’ll have to use your imagination. Our picture, left, shows Claire with Jamie Fraser, played by Sam Heughan. www.visitscotland.com/ outlander
Film-maker Tim Dinsdale is credited with starting the global obsession with the Loch Ness monster. Now his son, Angus, has written a fascinating account of his father’s eventful life, much of it spent striving for answers. The Man Who Filmed Nessie is published by Hancock House, £16.99. See bit.ly/nessbook
aurora autummn 14 ad pages_Ad Pages 11/08/2014 16:30 Page 9
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THE BIG PICTURE
10
HOLIDAY HIGH From 200 feet up, the resort of Rothesay on the Isle of Bute looks particularly tranquil in this shot by microlight user Michael Gill. A few strollers are taking the air on the Esplanade, one or two more can be seen on the grass and there are a couple of cars on the move. But Michael’s fly-past was probably about as exciting as it got on that sunny day. His picture is a strong composition, with its diagonal lines dividing the shimmering water, the grey tarmac, the neat grass and trees, the road with its rather faded markings and its mini-roundabout, and the rooftops and chimney pots. And Michael knows all about shapes – when he’s not taking pictures he’s a magazine and newspaper designer. www.michaelgill.eu
• AUTUMN 2014
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AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK
aurora autummn 14 ad pages_Ad Pages 11/08/2014 16:30 Page 12
M.M. Miller Building & Civil Engineering Contractors MM Miller has operated in the Highlands since 1964 providing a full range of civil engineering and utility services to the Energy sector. Through our well trained direct labour force and experienced management team we have established an enviable reputation for successfully delivering projects safely, on time and to budget.
Our Capabilities cover Civil Engineering Services for the Renewables Sector Utility Services & Trenches Bulk Excavations & Enabling Works Drainage Works Concrete Foundations & Structures Substations & Control Buildings Security Fencing & Barriers Construction of New OfďŹ ces
Wind Turbine Foundations Biomass Foundation Structures Environmental Improvements Access Roads & Paving Street Lighting & Signage Asset Maintenance Conversion of existing buildings to form OfďŹ ces
www.mm-miller.com Please contact us at:Miller House, 55 Macrae Street, Wick, Caithness KW1 5QW
Tel: 01955 602746 24 Carsegate Road, Inverness IV3 8EX
Tel: 01463 241000 Email: sales@mm-miller.com
Q.A. ISO9001
13 viewpoint_viewpoint 11/08/2014 15:11 Page 13
VIEWPOINT
13
Winning EVERYONE BENEFITS WHEN EMPLOYERS SUPPORT COMMUNITY INITIATIVES, WRITES PAUL REDDISH – PROVIDED THOUGHT IS GIVEN TO THE PROCESS
A
NY business thinking early 20s to those who are retired. about corporate social We’ve been able to help and responsibility today should be support many different people with thinking about the give and get different skillsets to help other of its activity. That often involves people get on in life. With several finding an answer to the thousand mentees over several straightforward question: “How years, we have a great deal of pracdo we best support initiatives in tical experience in the real life our local community whilst challenges and benefits that arise ensuring our staff also benefit from these relationships. There are from the experience?” very few organisations that have We all know of, and many of this level of insight and practical us have participated in, days experience. We are now offering where a staff team help out the opportunity for organisations to building a wall, digging a hole gain from this experience. “We believe young people or painting fences. These are all More and more companies are have the talent and worthwhile activities, but we are taking an interest in youth employenergy to drive Scotland increasingly looking for more ment. Recent figures of a 20.6 per forward” innovative ways of partnering cent youth unemployment rate with local charities. within Scotland show that there is ProjectScotland, the charity I lead as chief executive, is still plenty more to be done. One of the major barriers best known for helping young unemployed people get to youth employability is finding a resource to identify on in life through volunteering. This year we will support the right talent relatively easily. We get to know our 900 young people to volunteer with more than 170 young people in both a personal and professional charities across Scotland. In the Highlands and Islands we capacity. Over their three-month volunteering placework with 25 charities, from the National Trust for Scotment we are able to see them develop, learn new skills, land to the Elgin Youth Café. Our volunteers commit and realise their own potential. themselves to 30 hours a week, for a period of three We are already linked with a number of organisations months, giving them the chance to make a real differwho benefit from being able to recruit directly from our ence to the charity and also themselves. talented, committed pool of young people. We’re We don’t just deliver a volunteering programme; we always looking for new organisations to help connect also look at what other options we can provide to with talented young people. further support young people to get on in life. Two of At ProjectScotland we believe in young people. We these initiatives should be of interest to any business believe that they have the talent and energy to drive looking to improve its corporate social responsibility Scotland forward. We’re looking for organisations that programme. share these beliefs to partner with us and develop their The first of these is our mentoring programme. Every corporate social responsibility initiatives. These partnerone of our volunteers is offered a mentor. Since it was ships will make a real difference to our young people, to founded, ProjectScotland has trained and supported the teams within your organisations, and the communimore than 600 mentors across Scotland. Our volunteer ties in which we all work and live. mentors come from all sorts of backgrounds; from business owners to senior executives, and from those in their www.projectscotland.co.uk • AUTUMN 2014
AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK
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EVENTS!
14
BUSY TIME BEER, MUSIC, DAYS OUT – WE’VE GOT IT ALL TO LOOK FORWARD TO THIS AUTUMN
EDIT
PHOTO CR
HEBTEMBER Various venues, Western Isles 1-30 September www.hebtember.co.uk There’s something for everyone in this wide-ranging festival, from music by Julie Fowlis, right, whose popularity is going from strength, to comedy with Fred MacAulay, who will be taking a light-hearted look at the ‘Frederendum’. Eight community ceilidhs are planned, and there will art and craft exhibitions, too.
• AUTUMN 2014
NORTH HOP Eden Court, Invern ess 29-30 August www.northhop.co.u k Craft brewing in Sco tland is going from strength to str ength – and many of its top practitio ners are bringing their wares to this new festival. There will be more than 50 beers and ciders to try, as well as str eet food vendors and musicians galor e.
14-16 events_events 11/08/2014 15:17 Page 15
PHOTOGRAPHS: LOSSIEMOUTH HERITAGE ASSOCIATION
DOORS OPEN DA YS Various venues 6 September www.doorsopend ays.org.uk All over Scotland, buildings not usually open to th e public throw open their doors. Jus t as an example, Lossiemou th, above, has joined in the schem e this year, offering chances to see round everything from th e 18th-century Lossiemouth House , left, to the town’s waste water treatment works or the Wind swept brewery.
LAGAVULIN ISLAY JAZZ FESTIVAL Various venues, Islay 12-14 September www.islayjazzfestival.co.uk This festival is going from strength to strength, as this year’s line-up illustrates. Highlights on a varied bill include American talents Donny McCaslin, the tenor sax player, right, and Champian Fulton, who sings and plays piano. Scottish performers include trumpeter Colin Steele and Tommy Smith, who plays sax with pianist partner Brian Kellock. The action is spread among distilleries and halls all over the island. PHOTOGRAPH: NIC
K CHAO
AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK
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PHOTOGRAPHS: IAN CAMERON; GENEVIEVE STEVENSON
EVENTS!
16
FINDHORN BAY ARTS FESTIVAL Various venues, Moray 24-28 September www.findhornbayartsfestival.com This festival, making its debut in Homecoming year, features musical giants such as Eddi Reader, right, Shooglenifty and Capercaillie fiddler Charlie McKerron, as well as drama, notably Macbeth the Remix, a one-hour treatment of the Shakespeare tragedy, performed at Brodie Castle. Film, talks and visual art all add to the mix.
DARK SKYE STAR PARTY Clan Donald Centre, Skye 25 October www.destination-skye-lochalsh.com Astronomers and casual stargazers make their way under cover of darkness to the beautiful Clan Donald estate to share their enthusiasm and expertise. Guests include the Astronomer Royal of Scotland, John C Brown, photographer Sue Daly and Steve Owens, author of Star Gazing for Dummies.
ST KILDA STORY Taigh Chearsabhagh, North Uist Until 31 December www.taigh-chearsabhagh.org A fascinating collection of photographs and objects gives an insight into what life was like on the tiny group of islands that lies 39 miles north-west of North Uist, until the remaining 36 islanders asked to be evacuated in 1930.
• AUTUMN 2014
aurora autummn 14 ad pages_Ad Pages 11/08/2014 16:30 Page 17
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CLÒ MÒR INNSE GALL Visit us in-store to see Stornoway’s largest selection of Harris Tweed cloth, garments and accessories. Open Monday - Saturday, 10am to 5.30pm. 25 North Beach, Stornoway, HS1 2XQ Tel: 01851 700046 email: shop@harristweedhebrides.com
www.harristweedhebrides.com
18-23 Dublin_Dublin 11/08/2014 16:03 Page 18
DUBLIN
18
DUBLIN DELIGHTS
THERE’S A LOT TO DO AND SEE IN THE IRISH CAPITAL, THE LATEST CITY WITH A DIRECT DAILY LINK TO INVERNESS. NIKOLA MOSSOP HAS SOME SUGGESTIONS FOR YOU
• AUTUMN 2014
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Trinity College This seat of learning, founded in 1592, should definitely be on your schedule. The beautiful Old Library, below right, houses the astonishing ninth-century illuminated manuscript of the four Gospels, the Book of Kells. It’s on many visitors’ must-see list, so there may be a queue, but it is well worth the wait. Also on campus is the Science Gallery, which often puts on free exhibitions that will appeal to the whole family. www.tcd.ie www.dublin.sciencegallery.com
Temple Bar Known as Dublin’s cultural quarter, the Temple Bar area, left, has narrow cobbled streets lined with pubs, boutiques and galleries. It is a tourist hotspot, popular for its nightlife and live music. Comedy, theatre and music festivals are all held here, so check to see whether there’s anything special on during your stay. www.dublinstemplebar.com AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK
18-23 Dublin_Dublin 12/08/2014 12:46 Page 20
DUBLIN
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Loft Market If you want to add some flair to your wardrobe, this is the place to go. It is home to Dublin’s up-andcoming fashion and product designers, along with jewellers, vintage collectors and artists. Pictured left, it is ever changing and a firm favourite with fashionistas of all ages. It’s to be found on the top floor of the Powerscourt Townhouse. www.theloftmarket.com
Kilmainham Gaol Museum For an atmospheric and sobering experience, this is the place. Hear tales of heroic and tragic events from the 1780s to the 1920s. Guided tours last for an hour – get there early to make sure of a place. www.heritageireland.ie
• AUTUMN 2014
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The Guinness Storehouse
The city by bike
Uppermost in your mind as you touch down might be a good, hearty pint of Guinness, and the perfect place to taste the national delicacy is the Guinness Storehouse. Learn all there is to know about the celebrated stout, from how it is made to the awardwinning advertising that helped it become a worldwide brand. Have a go at pouring your own perfect pint and then enjoy it while taking in spectacular views over the city. www.guinness-storehouse.com
Seeing the sights on foot is enjoyable, but if you fancy a change, why not hop on a bike for a guided tour? Dublin City Bike Tours offer an easypaced tour with plenty of laughs and opportunities to capture snaps of the sights. Tours last 2-3 hours. www.dublincitybiketours.com
On the river Sometimes it’s nice to sit back and take in the sights, and a great way to do this is by boat on the River Liffey, pictured left. You can take a 45-minute trip, while a guide talks you through the history of the capital. You will sail under some famous bridges and see some exciting new buildings, too, including the Spire, right. As well as being informative, the tours are a lot of fun. www.dublindiscovered.ie
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aurora autummn 14 ad pages_Ad Pages 11/08/2014 16:30 Page 22
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DUBLIN
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Let’s have a tune Few nationalities like a tune more than the Irish. From U2 to the Cranberries, the Corrs, Sinead O’Connor and Westlife, the country produces countless stars, with many gaining their first recognition in Dublin. The city is packed with venues and your visit will not be complete unless you tap your toes to a live band. Try the Cobblestone for country, folk and bluegrass sessions, Whelan’s for new acts or the very cool Liquor Rooms for something quirkier.
Tuck in The morning after the night before can be a testing time, but after a traditional Irish breakfast you might just be able to get through the day. Kitty O’Shea by the Grand Canal serves a mighty breakfast that will be sure to start your day off right.
A day at the races Grab your fancy hat and head to Leopardstown racecourse for a fun-filled day out. Save money by buying your tickets online in advance, and this is the perfect way to add a touch of glamour to your city break. If you back a winner you might even be able to crank up the shopping a notch, too. www.leopardstown.com
Flybe launches its daily service between Inverness and Dublin on 26 October. Flights leave Inverness at 10.45, arriving at 12.05. Return flights leave Dublin at 12.30, arriving at 13.50. Fares from £49.99 one way. See www.flybe.com
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A’ CUNNTADH SÌOS CHUN A’ MHÒD
BHEIR AN FHÈIS CHULTARACH GHÀIDHLIG AS MOTHA ANN AN ALBA MÌLTEAN DE LUCHD-TADHAIL GU INBHIR NIS NUAIR A THILLEAS E AIR AIS GU PRÌOMH BHAILE NA GÀIDHEALTACHD AIRSON A' CHIAD UAIR ANN AN 17 BLIADHNA, THA MAIRI BERTRAM A' SGRÌOBHADH • FOGHAR 2014
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Deiseal bho chlì: Còmhlanciùil Glaschu Gria agus Barluath agus neach-cluiche òg toilichte
T
HA coimhearsnachd na Gàidhlig a’ cur fàilte bhlàth chridheil air a’ Mhòd Nàiseanta Rìoghail – fèis a bhios a’ moladh na h-ealain, ceòl, cultar agus cànan nuair a thilleas i gu Inbhir Nis bhon 10mh gu 18mh den Dàmhair am bliadhna. Bidh am Mòd a’ tàladh luchd-farpais à Alba agus bhon t-saoghal air fad , agus bidh mìltean de luchdamhairc aig tachartas na bliadhna seo anns a’ bhaile. ’S e an Comunn Gàidhealach a bhios a’ cur am Mòd Nàiseanta air dòigh – buidheann a tha a’ brosnachadh teagaisg, ionnsachadh agus cleachdadh na Gàidhlig. Chaidh a’ chiad Mhòd a’ chumail anns an t-Òban ann an 1892. Tha e air fàs bhon uairsin agus a nis is e an fhèis chultarach Ghàidhlig as motha a th’ againn ann an Alba. Thathas an dùil gun toir am Mòd spionnadh don bhaile-mhòir, a’ tòiseachadh le caismeachd beòthail le lòchrain eadar Caisteal Inbhir Nis agus Cùirt an Aodainn- am prìomh àite airson an tachartas - far an tèid an tachartas fosglaidh a chumail. Am measg an luchd-ciùil a tha cinnteach a bhith ann aig an fhosgladh, tha Skipinnish agus an còmhlan dùthchail Albannach, Gria. Ann an 2014 chithear an tachartas Iomaill as motha a bh’aig a’ Mhòd a-riamh taobh ri taobh ri na farpaisean. Bheir seo a-steach cuirmean, bogadh leabhraichean is CDan, seiseanan ciùil, bàrdachd, dannsa agus cruthan ealain eile de gach seòrsa. Tha
timcheall air dusan taighseinnse air gealltainn gum bi iad a’ tabhann ceòl traidiseanta Ceilteach san togalach, agus bidh cleasachd sràid a’ dol air adhart air feadh a’ bhaile-mhòir. Bheir an Iomall a-steach Caisteal Urchadan air bruachan Loch Nis, Gearasdan Sheòrais agus Ionad Tadhail Chùil Lodair agus gach sgìre mun cuairt.
Ainmeil Am measg prìomh thachartasan an Iomaill bidh Cuirm nam Fìdhlear oidhche Shathairne aig Cùirt an Aodainn. Thèid aoigheachd a thoirt don chuirm ann an co-bhonn ri “Blazin in Beauly” fo stiùir ciùil Bruis MacGriogair bho Blazin’ Fiddles, agus anns a’ chuirm chithear còrr is ceud fìdhlear, nam measg cluicheadairean ainmeil bhon t-saoghal air fad, còmhla ri buidhnean ionadail, agus tha e coltach gur e seo an fhìor chuirm fìdhlearachd as tarraingeach ann an Alba. Tha Bruis MacGriogair gu math toilichte a bhith an sàs aig tachartas cho drùidhteach. Thuirt Bruis: “Bha sinne aig Blazin’ Fiddles air ar togail le cèol agus òrain nan Gàidheal. Tha a’ mhòr chuid dhen chruinneachadh againn bhon Ghàidhealtachd is na h-Eileanan, agus tha e gu math spreòdach a bhith a’ ceangal ar sgoil chiùil Blazin in Beauly le cuirm
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To read this feature on the Mod in English, see the aurora website, www.aurora-mag.com
nam fìdhlear. Chuir sinn fios gu buidhnean fìdhlearan ionadail agus tha iad a’ coimhead air adhart ris an dùbhlan mòr seo.... còrr is 100 luchd-ciùil a’ cluich fuinn sàr-mhath aig Cùirt an Aodainn, airson toiseachadh sgoinneil a thoirt dhan Mhòid. Cò nach biodh air a dhòigh?” Thèid cuirm shònraichte a chumail feasgar Diciadain gus an 100mh ceann-bliadhna den Chiad Chogadh a chuimhneachadh, còmhla ris an neachciùil Erik Spence, a tha air pìos ciùil a sgrìobhadh a thèid leis a’ phìos bàrdachd “Banntrach Cogaidh” a sgrìobh an t-Urr. Iain Macleòid nach maireann. Bidh Còisir Ghàidhlig Inbhir Pheofharain agus Còisir Bhunsgoil Lochàrdail a’ gabhail pàirt ann. Bheir na Mòr-chòisirean, le còmhlain pìoba, madainn Disathairne far am bi na ceudan de luchd-còisir a’ seinn, fèis chiùil na seachdain gu crìch. Tha mu 3,000 luchd-farpais bhon t-saoghal air fad agus suas ri 10,000 luchd-amhairc an dùil a thighinn gu Inbhir Nis. Tha am Mòd a’ tarraing grunn dhaoine cothromach bho coimhearsnachd na Gàidhlig agus cuideachd luchd-tadhail agus luchd-farpais bhon t-saoghal air fad, a’ gabhail a-steach Breatainn, Èirinn, Astràilia, A' Ghearmailt, Canada, agus Na Stàitean Aonaichte. Tha dùil aig a’ Chomunn Gàidhealach gum faigh
• FOGHAR 2014
an eaconamaidh ionadail ‘boost’ de £2 millean agus bha àitean-fuirich làn bho chionn mìosan air ais. Thuirt Iain Moireasdan, Àrd-oifigear a’ Chomuinn Gaidhealach: “Tha sinn uabhasach toilichte a bhith a’ tilleadh a dh’Inbhir Nis airson a’ chiad uair ann an 17 bliadhna agus a bhith a’ toirt leinn an Iomall as motha ann an eachdraidh an tachartais.
Ruigsinneach “Is e farpais cridhe a’ Mhòid agus tha sinn air àireamh mhath de thagraidhean fhaighinn am bliadhna sa. Tha an Iomall cuideachd a’ ciallachadh gun urrainn dhuinn Dualchas na Gàidhlig a thoirt gu luchd-èisteachd ùr, Gaidheil is Goill còmhla agus a bhith a’ taisbeanadh luchdciuil tàlantach bhon t-saoghal air fad le prògram tarraingeach de thachartasan.. “Tha am Mòd gu math cudromach a thaobh cultar na Gàidhlig – ann an Alba agus air feadh an tsaoghail. Tha am Mòd cho soirbheachail seach gu bheil sinn a’ faighinn taic mhòr bho coimhearsnachdan agus gnìomhachasan anns na bailtean far a bheil am’ Mòd air a chumail agus tha sinn gu math toilichte gu bheil sinn ga chumail ann an Inbhir Nis a-rithist. “Bha buaidh mhòr eaconamach aig a Mhòd thar na
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trì bliadhnaichean a chaidh seachad – eadar £2.1 millean agus £2.5 millean. Chan eil e furasta amas a dhèanamh ro làimh ach tha sinn an dòchas gum bi na figearan seo nas àirde am bliadhna seo. Tha a’ Bhliadhna Tilleadh Dhachaigh 2014 a’ cur air tachartasan ann an Inbhir Nis agus chaidh am Mòd Nàiseanta a chumail ann an Inbhir Nis mu dheireadh ann an 1997. “Tha sinn an dùil gun tig grunn dhaoine chun a’ Mhòid am bliadhna sa agus tha sinn an dòchas gum bi an t-suidheachadh ruigsinneach dha daoine seach gum bi cothrom ann dhan h-uile duine tlachd a ghabhail sa Mhòd agus tha sinn a’ coimhead air adhart ri tachartas soirbheachail. “Tha An Comunn Gàidhealach cuideachd a’ ruith fichead Mòdan ionadail. Eadar iad, thathar a’ tàladh mu 4500 dhaoine òga agus gam brosnachadh airson a’ Ghàidhlig ionnsachadh, tro òrain, bàrdachd, agus innealan-ciùil. Tha na tachartasan ionadail seo gu math cudromach airson a’ Ghàidhlig a chumail suas an Alba.” Tha eadar-naiseantas a’ Mhòd Nàiseanta Rìoghail fhathast a’ fàs le taic bho EventScotland, agus a’ faighinn taic bho buidhnean an sàs ann am brosnachadh agus leasachadh na Gàidhlig, mar Bòrd na Gàidhlig agus Comunn na Gàidhlig, Comhairle
nan Leabhraichean, Pròiseact nan Ealan, Iomairt na Gàidhealtachd is nan Eilean, MG Alba agus eile. Thuirt Pòl Bush OBE, Àrd-oifigear EventScotland: “Is e comharrachadh agus taisbeanadh sònraichte de dhualchas cultarail na h-Alba a tha sa Mhòd Nàiseanta Rìoghail, a tha a’ toirt ìomhaigh mhòr don dùthaich a h-uile bliadhna. Tha sinn air a bhith ag obair le sgioba a’ Mhòid bho 2004, agus tha e na thoileachas mòr dhuinn a bhith a’ leantainn le ar taic mar phàirt den ghealladh againn a thaobh an Ro-innleachd Ghàidhlig Nàiseanta.
Aoigheachd “Leis gu bheil sinn a’ comharrachadh Tilleadh Dhachaigh na h-Alba 2014, bidh am Mòd aig teis mheadhan prògram Tilleadh Dhachaigh na Gàidhealtachd - sreath fad dà mhìos de thachartasan eadar seann nòs is co-aimsireil, agus seallaidh na tachartasan ann an Inbhir Nis de cho iongantach sa tha ar seallaidhean ann an Alba agus gheibh iad aoigheachd bhlàth.” Thuirt Pròbhaist Inbhir Nis, an Comhairliche Ailig Greumach: “Bidh am bliadhna 2014 air leth math le prògram de thachartasan stèidhte sa bhaile agus
Deiseal fa chomhair chlì: Dannsairean Gàidhealtachd aig fosgladh Mòd 2013 ann am Pàislig; Bruis MacGriogair, stiùiriche Cuirm nam Fìdhlear; dithis òganach dòigheil; Còisir Ghàidhlig Ìle le Cuach Sheriff MacMaster Campbell Memorial; chìthear co-chruinneachadh air na h-aodainn aca
AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK
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CULTAR
Merida a’ gabhail cuimse ann am Brave
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An Còmhlan-ciùil Tiriodh Skerryvore agus, gu h-ìosal, Còmhlan-cèilidh Gleann Fhionghain agus seinneadair Ainsley Hamill
fèisean air am meudachadh le tachartasan cudromach. “Gheibh daoine ionadail agus luchd-turais lorg air rudeigin a chòrdas riutha, agus bheir grunn de thachartasan gaoireil air a bhlàr a-muigh brosnachadh dha daoine anns a’ bhaile. Tha am Mòd gu math cudromach a thaobh an eaconamaidh – chan e dha àitean-fuirich a-mhàin, ach dha companaidhean eile mar feadhainn a bhios an sàs ann am biadh is deoch. Thuirt Scott Armsrong, Neach-stiùiridh Roinneil: “Tha turasachd gu math cudromach a thaobh an eaconamaidh ann an Inbhir Nis. Tha tachartasan agus fèisean deatamach ann a bhith a’ tarraing luchd-turais a-steach dhan phrìomh bhaile airson fuireach. Tha VisitScotland uabhasach toilichte fàilte a chur air a’ Mhòd Nàiseanta Rìoghail nuair a thilleas e air ais gu Inbhir Nis. Bidh am Mòd a’ cluich pàirt mhòr anns a’ Bhliadhna Tilleadh Dhachaigh
2014 agus gu dearbha pàirt gu math cudromach ann an Tilleadh Dhachaigh na Gàidhealtachd 2014. “’S e bliadhna iongantach a th’ ann an 2014 dha Alba agus a’ Ghàidhealtachd, a’ toirt cothrom dha Alba deàrrsach air feadh an t-saoghail. Airson an luchd-farpais agus an luchd amhairc, tha Tilleadh Dhachaigh na Gàidhealtachd agus am Mòd Nàiseanta Rìoghail a’ toirt cothrom dhan a h-uile duine tlachd a ghabhail nar cultar agus ar fàilte bhlàth ainmeil.” Tha am Mòd Nàiseanta Rìoghail a’ fàs agus a’ leasachadh a h-uile bliadhna agus tha seo a’ dearbhadh an dealas a th’ aig coimhearsnachdan ionadail agus cho cudromach sa tha an dleastanas aca ann a bhith a’ cur ri chèile aon dha na fèisean Gàidhlig as motha a th’ againn ann an Alba. £
www.ancomunn.co.uk www.modinbhirnis2014.com
DEALBHAN A’ MHÒID: GRAHAM HOOD
• FOGHAR 2014
aurora autummn 14 ad pages_Ad Pages 11/08/2014 16:31 Page 29
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GREEN TOURISM
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NATURAL FIT GREEN TOURISM IS FLOURISHING IN SCOTLAND AS LEADING PROVIDERS RESPOND TO THE GROWING DEMAND FOR LOW-IMPACT, SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL EXPERIENCES, WRITES RICHARD ROWE
W
HEN RHODA and Neil Campbell first opened the doors to Blue Reef Cottages, a striking and luxurious pair of eco-buildings on the west coast of Harris, in 2003, they were in many ways stepping into the unknown. In offering the first such five-star accommodation anywhere on Harris or Lewis, the Campbells had drawn their mark in the sand not just in terms of the quality on offer, but also the green ethos that sat alongside it. Built into the hillside on the family croft, the design of each turf-roofed cottage is based on Neolithic underground housing, with some traditional Hebridean building techniques thrown in. Power for the cottages comes from a small wind
• AUTUMN 2014
turbine, while their turf roofs not only provide habitat for wildlife but also combine with thick, stone walls to offer outstanding insulation – crucial in a place where the wind likes to blow. Aimed at couples, the one-bedroomed cottages provide a romantic, relaxing space in which to savour glorious views across the machair to pristine beaches, clear blue water and the mountains of North Harris beyond. The combination of location, style and eco-credentials makes for an alluring package that epitomises what most people would imagine when thinking of green tourism. “The market for this kind of accommodation was pretty niche at the time,” explains Rhoda. “There
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was very little geared towards couples, so we wanted to change that – and in doing so encourage people who already visited Skye to make the final leap over to Harris.” And leap they did, with guests arriving from all over the UK, Europe and further afield. Not surprisingly, many come for honeymoons and other special occasions. “It’s such a precious environment here and we want our guests to enjoy it as much as we do,” she adds. Fast forward 11 years and things are very different on Harris and Lewis: there are now more than 20 five-star accommodation providers on the island – not to mention many less high-end options – as
more and more people are enticed by the prospect of exploring an unspoilt environment on the very edge of Europe. “I think what we created really opened people’s eyes to what could be achieved,” says Rhoda. “There is so much going on in Harris now – it’s incredibly vibrant.”
Cool Such developments say everything about how quality breeds quality – and much about green tourism itself. But what’s in a name? Today, green tourism, eco-tourism and adventure travel increasingly inhabit the same space; the label no
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longer matters – all are about low-impact, sustainable travel experiences, often in areas of great natural beauty. This is the direction of travel now, believes Caroline Warburton, national strategy delivery co-ordinator at the Scottish Tourism Alliance. “Green tourism is more mainstream, fuelled in part by a recent trend towards ‘staycations’ but also movements around local food and drink,” she says. “At the more budget end, camping and glamping are now seen as cool rather than alternative.” Travel today is increasingly about authentic experiences and being immersed in a place, says Fran McCann, marketing executive at Macs Adventure, a Glasgow-based adventure travel operator that offers a range of walking and cycling holidays in Scotland and overseas. “Outdoor holidays are now becoming the norm in Scotland,” she says. “In the past, the majority of outdoor adventure holidays were too tough, so it was a niche area, but there are more options now and tourists are looking for something that satisfies their individual physical and mental needs. “For our part, we try to offer something for everyone, making adventure holidays accessible to more people at a level they are comfortable with.”
Abundant It’s perhaps telling that most Macs Adventure trips are now self-guided – a move that McCann says enables guests to interact with local communities and other trail users for a more authentic experience. “We’ve really seen the demand for this type of travel expand over the last decade as more people look for fulfilling travel experiences that are not only real but also include the health benefits of an active holiday.” Given the country’s landscape and abundant natural riches, Scotland is made for green tourism. But, in truth, it’s been a while coming; only in recent years has the desire to stand alongside the likes of Norway, Canada and New Zealand as a world-class green tourism destination turned from ambition to reality. From the development of new long-distance walking and cycling trails – the latest being the John Muir Way, from Helensburgh to Dunbar – to recent moves by the Scottish Government to safeguard some of the country’s wildest areas of land, there seems a greater determination than ever to both protect and show off • AUTUMN 2014
Clockwise from below: interior and exterior at Natural Retreats; Blue Reef Cottages, on Harris; you may see a golden eagle there. Previous pages: sunset with thrift
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Scotland’s natural bounty. And in one way, Scotland is already a world leader thanks to the long-running Green Tourism Certification Programme – an accreditation scheme that provides rigorous green grading for tourism businesses. Developed in Scotland in the mid-1990s, and now the world’s largest green accreditation scheme, the programme assesses the overall sustainability of businesses with a focus on running costs, efficiency and the wider marketing benefits of adopting a greener approach.
Momentum With more than 800 members in Scotland and about 2,500 across the UK, Ireland and Canada, those behind the scheme have a good sense of where tourism businesses are, or should be, heading. “I do think we are reaching a tipping point,” believes managing director Andrea Nicholas. “If businesses are not thinking about adopting green ideas they will be left behind, either because resource costs are too high, or it’s just what is being expected
and demanded by consumers.” The feeling of momentum around green tourism is reflected in the sheer number of recent start-up ventures that have green thinking, or some kind of eco-offering, at their heart. Some have seen serious money pumped into them, such as the multi-million pound redevelopment of accommodation at John O’Groats – and wider regeneration efforts for the area – by travel company Natural Retreats. The company also has big plans for the Cairngorm Mountain resort, which it took over earlier this year. Others are smaller scale, and more raw in their appeal. In the Borders, Ruberslaw Wild Woods Camping invites guests to embrace camping as it once was with a range of wild pitches within the new Teviot Valleys Special Landscape Area. Meanwhile, on the west coast, Oban-based marine biologist and underwater photographer Shane Wasik runs Basking Shark Scotland, which offers the chance to learn more about these impressive summer visitors – and even swim with them, if that’s your thing. But perhaps one of the best examples of the new AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK
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The hand-built log cabins at Eagle Brae, near Beauly, offer a luxurious yet sustainable holiday experience
wave of high-end green tourism provision can be found at Eagle Brae, a luxury self-catering development set in native woodland close to Glen Affric. With a selection of hand-crafted log cabins built to a design perfected in the wilds of British Columbia, Eagle Brae offers a backcountry experience, but with every possible mod con skilfully blended in – and all powered entirely by renewables. “What we have tried to create here is that genuine rustic wilderness cabin experience but not at the expense of all the modern amenities everyone is accustomed to these days,” explains co-owner Mike Spencer-Nairn. “There have been no shortcuts and no compromises – we have put as much effort into our cabins as we would into our own home. Actually more... our own home is a dump!” While Mike is not entirely convinced that all his customers completely “get” or even care too much about the eco side of the operation, staying in such a location none the less exposes people to a greener way of thinking, as well as creating a greater awareness of the landscape all around. That’s also the case at Blue Reef Cottages in Harris, where Rhoda Campbell is delighted that people visit from all over the world, but says that the green approach on offer is really just an extension of how people live in many such island communities. “As crofters, we are green without even having or needing the label – it’s a way of life in places like this,” she says. And the signs are that greener thinking will soon be a way of life for many more travellers eager to sample their own slice of a more natural Scotland. £ • AUTUMN 2014
Find out more ECO HOLIDAY OPTIONS BLUE REEF COTTAGES www.stay-hebrides.com EAGLE BRAE www.eaglebrae.co.uk RUBERSLAW WILD WOODS CAMPING www.ruberslaw.co.uk BASKING SHARK SCOTLAND www.baskingsharkscotland.co.uk NATURAL RETREATS www.naturalretreats.com MACS ADVENTURE www.macsadventure.com JOHN MUIR WAY www.johnmuirway.org GREEN TOURISM CERTIFICATION PROGRAMME www.green-tourism.com For more on nature-based tourism and adventure travel in Scotland generally, visit www.wild-scotland.org.uk
aurora autummn 14 ad pages_Ad Pages 11/08/2014 16:31 Page 35
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aurora autummn 14 ad pages_Ad Pages 11/08/2014 16:31 Page 36
HIGHLAND CATERHAM HIRE
Vehicle Hire and Sales Burnbank Street, Campbeltown Argyll, PA28 6JD
Tel: (01586) 554480 Fax: (01586) 551414 Email: enquiries@kintyrehire.com
Highland Caterham Hire offers you the opportunity to self drive hire an iconic British sports car, the Caterham Seven. Gift vouchers and wedding use are all catered for.
01343 842657 | 07831 847212 info@highlandcaterhamhire.co.uk www.highlandcaterhamhire.co.uk boyd@openroadhire.co.uk www.openroadhire.co.uk You will find us at: “Badentinan”, Elgin, Moray, Scotland, IV30 8QX. We are on the B9103, approxrimately 3.5 miles south of the A96.
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37-38 surfing_whitewater surfing 11/08/2014 15:43 Page 37
ADVENTURE
37
ROCKY RIDE
LET THE CURRENT DO ALL THE HARD WORK WITH A SPOT OF WHITEWATER SLEDGING, SUGGESTS SCOTLAND OUTDOORS EDITOR DON CURRIE
PHOTOGRAPHS: BOOTS N PADDLES
W
HITEWATER sledging did not mean a lot to my colleagues when I told them how I planned to spend my day off. Whitewater what? What the hell’s that? Those were among the questions they asked. Admittedly, it’s not a well-known pastime – so far. But it’s huge in New Zealand, and what works well there tends to go down a storm in Scotland, too – just ask the legions of happy bungee jumpers at Killiecrankie. Feeling suitably adventurous, I meet up with Dan and Joe, instructors with the outdoor experience company Boots n Paddles, and four other thrill seekers at Meig Dam, near Dingwall. We don wetsuits, flippers and helmets and manhandle our sturdy, yellow plastic sledges into the black water beneath the dam, on the downstream side. Any unease I feel glancing over my shoulder at the dam is dwarfed by the fear I feel as I look in the other direction towards the first rapids, which are thundering in my ears. After a few cheery instructions and a quick practice at righting the sledges should we overturn, we’re off. We fin our way to where the River Meig continues its flow through the Meig Gorge towards the River Conon and the Cromarty Firth. The current takes over and no more finning is required. What is called for, though, apart from much screaming, is a firm grip on the handles within the inside wall of the sledge, which protect hands from the rocks.
The most alarming aspect of the first descent is the lack of control. If the current sweeps you to the right, then to the right is where you’ll go. The bangs and jolts as sledge slams into rock are a shock, too – though not an unpleasant one. And so is hitting the pool at the bottom of the run. I plunge under and bob up, still holding firm to my sledge. “That was brilliant,” I shout to Dan. “Are there lots
more of those?” I catch a glint in his eye as he nods. And sure enough, there are more rapids, rocks and waterfalls, often with barely room in between to pause for breath. A few times I let go of the sledge with one hand and then have to slide back on board – but this is easy enough. My legs feel vulnerable dangling off the end, but the wetsuit provides protection against scrapes. AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK
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ADVENTURE
38
I take a few knocks, though, one of which leaves me with a black eye – don’t do this the day before your wedding. But none of it really hurts and the enjoyment more than compensates. There are still peaceful moments amid the mayhem, and it’s amazing to see a large toad sitting motionless on a rock, oblivious to our passage even as every one of us bashes into the side of that same rock. It’s also great to be travelling through a gorge that relatively
“The most alarming thing is the lack of control” few people see. The sides are sheer cliffs, thickly wooded on top and unfrequented by anglers or walkers. We see no-one else all afternoon. By the end I’m more tired than I expected. Although the current does most of the work, my muscles have been tensed. There are some places where we have to carry or drag the sledges, and this is quite strenuous. The trips are for competent swimmers aged at least 14, but for this route I’d say you do need a degree of strength. There are less arduous trips along the gentler River Feshie in the Cairngorms, or the River Moriston, near Loch Ness. My four fellow sledgers have been friends for years, but I instantly feel part of the gang. We look out for each other, laughing at the undignified descents, braving the rapids one by one and grabbing each other’s sledges to help regroup. Would they do it again, I ask as we dry off? Definitely, is the unanimous reply. So would I – though next time I might be a softie and take the Feshie option.
• AUTUMN 2014
Find out more Don Currie went whitewater sledging with Boots n Paddles, call 0845 612 5567 or see www.boots-n-paddles.co.uk Sessions last a couple of hours and cost about £55 per head. See www.scotoutdoors.com for other outdoor ideas
aurora autummn 14 ad pages_Ad Pages 11/08/2014 16:31 Page 39
Visit the
Spectacular with
at Elgol on the Isle of Skye
Contact us: Star Rent-a-Car Limited, 22 Commercial Road, Lerwick ZE1 0LX Tel: 01595 692075 Fax: 01595 693964 Sumburgh Airport Terminal Tel: 01950 460444 Fax: 01950 460084
Misty Isle Boat Trips Sealladh na Mara Elgol Isle Of Skye IV49 9BL
Contact@mistyisleboattrips.co.uk
Tel: 01471 866 288 mistyisleboattrips.co.uk
E-mail: info@starrentacar.co.uk Web: www.starrentacar.co.uk
The Priory Hotel COMBINE THE BEAULY SHOPPING EXPERIENCE WITH SOME RELAXATION Tea/ Coffee Snacks and Hot Meals All Day Every Day Served By The Open Fire. Monday - Saturday: 2 Course Lunch - £7.95 – 3 Course Lunch - £9.95 Sunday Carvery - 12.00-2.30 pm Traditional Scottish High Tea 5.00 – 7.00pm Everyday Bar Suppers and A La Carte Dinner From 5.00pm Every Day Email: reservations@priory-hotel.com “The Only Way To Dine And Stay In The Scottish Highlands”
The Priory Hotel The Square . Beauly . Inverness-shire . IV4 7BX T: 01463 782309 F: 01463 782531
40-41 room report_40-41 hotels 11/08/2014 15:54 Page 40
ROOM REPORT
40
HIGH life WITH STUNNING VIEWS FROM ITS LOFTY POSITION, AND LUXURY WITHIN, THIS HOUSE ON THE MAR LODGE ESTATE WAS PERFECT FOR NEIL BRAIDWOOD AND FAMILY PHOTOGRAPHS: NATIONAL TRUST FOR SCOTLAND
MAR LODGE ESTATE near Braemar in Aberdeenshire is well used to hosting shooting parties, but the Braidwood family had a different kind of party in mind when we booked Claybokie cottage for my father’s birthday. The property was built as a shooting lodge for guests of the previous owner of Mar Lodge when it operated as a hotel, so although a relatively new building, it still has an air of country house chic, while being finished to extremely high standards. With computerised heating, a huge kitchen with four-oven Aga and even a piano that plays
• AUTUMN 2014
itself, we (my parents, my wife, three children and myself) felt very comfortable the moment we set foot over the door. Claybokie accommodates 10 comfortably, with two rooms en-suite, and our first problem was choosing where to sleep. There are two doubles, the rest being twins, and most rooms have a spectacular view to the south over the River Dee, which winds through the estate like molten silver, on its way to the sea at Aberdeen. It has burst its banks more than once, most famously in 1829 during the “muckle spate” when the original Mar Lodge was all but washed away.
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HOW TO BOOK Claybokie sleeps 10, and the nearby Creag Bhalg sleeps eight. Both are available for short breaks as well as for full weeks, and can be booked over the festive season.
Claybokie, left, commands fine views and is furnished to the highest standards
“All we had to do was sit in one of the window seats and admire the view” Claybokie is built high on a hill and the river defences have been much improved since those days. So all we had to do was sit in one of the window seats and admire the view. And what a view. Mar Lodge Estate has been in the care of the National Trust for Scotland since it was bought with the help of Lottery funding in 1995. Forming nearly 8 per cent of the Cairngorms National Park, and home to 15 Munros, the 72,500 acre estate attracts walkers, wildlife watchers and country sports enthusiasts alike. If you wanted, you could walk all day on the many footpaths that surround Claybokie. We were content just to drink in the scenery from the comfort of the house, with the occasional trip to Braemar or nearby Ballater. Every night, around 8.30, a herd of 30 or so red deer paraded beneath our window as they waded across the river in search of shelter or greener pastures. And every morning, at around 6.30 (I’m an early riser), I was treated to a performance of the lek, or mating ceremony,
From £935 for four nights for Claybokie or £750 for Creag Bhalg. For further information see www.ntsholidays.com or call 0844 493 2108 for a brochure.
of the black grouse in the field not far away. We were supremely comfortable, too, in our home from home – although, as our own home doesn’t have Sky, our kids would have been perfectly happy to put down roots at Claybokie. I had a go at cooking on the Aga, which, with a bit of practice, is hugely enjoyable. There is a conventional oven for the faint-hearted, however, as well as a microwave, two fridges, three sinks and numerous culinary gadgets I could not even name. It seems some guests draft in help to cater for those shooting parties, so the kitchen is bordering on the industrial in its capacity. My parents enjoyed exploring Claybokie’s large garden – quite enough for them at their time of life. There is a pond with bullrushes and scores of frogs, which kept them and the kids entertained, or stone benches to simply sit on and enjoy the heather rockery. Claybokie is a great place for a break in every sense of the word – I had no mobile signal and there is no internet connection – so we could truly switch off and concentrate on what we were there for. My dad’s birthday was a success – spent among family in tranquil surroundings. And not a single shot was fired. £
AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK
aurora autummn 14 ad pages_Ad Pages 11/08/2014 16:32 Page 42
Inverness Inverness Airport Airport Taxis Taxis a Taxis T aaxis to and from Inverness Airport
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43-49 essentials_43-49 essentials 11/08/2014 16:48 Page 43
Essentials WHETHER YOU’RE A BUSINESS TRAVELLER OR A TOURIST, VISITING FAMILY OR GOING TO A MEETING, OUR HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS AIRPORTS GUIDE WILL POINT YOU TO THE BEST FOOD, ACCOMMODATION AND TRANSPORT LINKS
Sumburgh
Kirkwall Baile na h-Eaglais S Stornoway tornoway Steòrnabhagh Benbecula Beinn nam Fadhla Wick/John Wick/John O’Groats Inbhir Uige/Taigh Uige/Taigh Iain Ghròt
Barra Baraigh
IInverness nverness Inbhir Nis
Tiree Tiree Tiriodh Tiriodh Dundee Dùn Dè Islay Islay Ile Campbeltown Ceann Loch
• AUTUMN 2014
AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK
43-49 essentials_43-49 essentials 11/08/2014 16:48 Page 44
ESSENTIALS
Barra
44
FROM THE AIRPORT
Car hire: Call Barra Car Hire, 01871 890313, or MacMillan Self Drive, 01871 890366 before you arrive. Taxi: Book with Barra Island Taxis, 01871 810012, or J Campbell, 01871 810216. Bus: Runs between the airport and Castlebay. Details from R MacMillan, 01871 890366; H MacNeil, 01871 810262; cne-siar.gov.uk.
PHOTOGRAPH: DUBLIN AIRPORT
BON APPETIT
SPOTLIGHT Dublin Airport You can fly from Inverness to Dublin direct with Flybe from 26 October. See www.flybe.com, and for more information on Dublin airport see www.dublinairport.com.
FROM THE AIRPORT
Car hire: www.hertz.co.uk +3531 844 5466 www.budget.co.uk +3531 844 5150 www.avis.co.uk +3531 605 7500 www.europcar.co.uk +3531 812 2800 www.dooleycarrentals.com +3531 944 6866 Taxi:
Follow directions to the taxi ranks outside both Terminal 1 and Terminal 2. Staff will be on hand if you need help.
Bus:
Plenty of buses and coaches link the airport to Dublin city centre and surrounding areas, and also national services going to towns and cities across Ireland.
NIGHTCAP For a sophisticated tipple, Flutes is a stylish setting in which to choose from a range of champagnes and sparkling wine. For something healthy and tasty, try Jump juice bar.
BON APPETIT Treat your sweet tooth at the Chocolate Lounge, where a conveyor belt brings the goodies right to you.
PILLOW TALK The Carlton Dublin Airport Hotel has a free shuttle service to and from the airport. It runs every half hour and takes 10 minutes. www.carltondublinairport.com
175 1940 4 16 1.2 20 In numbers
ROUTES AVAILABLE
AIRPORT OPENED
NEW SERVICES STARTING IN 2014
€
BILLION SPENT ON AIRPORT REVAMP
MILLION PASSENGERS IN 2013
The CASTLEBAY HOTEL uses the best of Barra produce. Call 01871 810223 or see castlebayhotel.com.
NIGHTCAP The HEATHBANK BAR is in a former church whose thick walls enclose a bright bar with fine views. Northbay, 01871 890266, barrahotel.co.uk.
PILLOW TALK Britain’s most westerly hotel, the ISLE OF BARRA BEACH HOTEL, looks over the sands of Tangasdale Beach, and makes the most of the island’s fine lamb and fish. 01871 810383, isleofbarrahotel.co.uk.
BE A TOURIST Once you’ve landed, you’ve already seen the most famous sight – the beach landing strip. KISIMUL CASTLE is seat of the Clan MacNeil, and don’t miss the deserted village of BALNABODACH. The island is ideal for walking, cycling and wildlife watching.
WHAT’S ON The Barra and Vatersay Island PRODUCE SHOW, on 6 September in Castlebay hall, is a highlight of the year.
Benbecula FROM THE AIRPORT
Car hire: Try Ask Car Hire, 01870 602818; Autotec, 01878 710266; or Laing Motors, 01878 700267.Taxi: Book from Benbecula Taxis, 01870
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602464, or MacVicar’s, 01870 603197. Bus: A regular service takes you to points all over Benbecula, North Uist and South Uist. For details see cnesiar.gov.uk/travel.
BON APPETIT STEPPING STONES is popular for its delicious fare such as brochette of king scallops. Balivanich, 01870 603377.
NIGHTCAP Good selections of ales, wines and whiskies can be found at DARK ISLAND HOTEL, Liniclate, 01870 603030; ISLE OF BENBECULA HOUSE HOTEL, Creagorry, 01870 602024, isleshotelgroup.co.uk.
century POLOCHAR INN makes great use of local ingredients, and is in a great setting with an ancient standing stone. 01878 700215, polocharinn.com
BE A TOURIST The scenery, flora and fauna are spectacular so bring boots, camera and binoculars. The white beaches, lochs and hills calm the most troubled souls. Causeways link the island to North and South Uist.
WHAT’S ON Two artists, JOANNE TATHAM and TOM O’SULLIVAN, are showing sculpture photographs at Taigh Chearsabhagh between August and October.
PILLOW TALK LIONACLEIT GUESTHOUSE is comfortable and set on a croft, with seven rooms for B&B guests and two self-catering cottages. 01870 602176, lionacleit-guesthouse.com. At KYLES FLODDA, a modern B&B overlooking North Uist, you’re well placed to explore nature. See kylesflodda.com. LANGASS LODGE at Loch Eport, North Uist, offers comfort and great cooking, using local game and seafood with garden herbs. 01876 580285, langasslodge.co.uk. On South Uist, the 18th-
Campbeltown FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Call Burbank Garage, 01586 544480, or Campbeltown Motor Co, 01586 552030. Taxi: Call Fona Taxi, 01586 554001; Roy’s Taxis, 01586 554625; Tavi’s Taxis, 01586 551122; Kintyre Connect Minibus Service, 07825 091502 or 07984 634824. Bus: Book ring-and-ride bus from airport by calling West Coast Motors, 01586 552319.
The war memorial on top of Dundee Law, with view of the Firth of Tay and Fife
BON APPETIT DALNASPIDAL is a great place to stay and serves a mix of Scottish and South African dishes. Dalnaspidal Guest House, Tangy, 01586 820466, dalnaspidal-guesthouse.com.
NIGHTCAP BURNSIDE BAR is friendly and traditional. Burnside Square, 01586 552306.
PILLOW TALK CRAIGARD HOUSE, an Italianate-style building, is a classy place to stay. Low Askomil, 01586 554242, craigard-house.co.uk.
BE A TOURIST The Mull of Kintyre gave its name to the UK’s biggestselling single. The record, featuring Campbeltown Pipe Band, was Paul McCartney’s love song to the area, which has many attractions. Walkers will like the KINTYRE WAY, where the view changes with every step, taking in Ireland, Islay, Jura and Arran. The glorious CAMPBELTOWN PICTURE HOUSE is the oldest cinema in Scotland. MACHRIHANISH golf course is one of the country’s finest.
WHAT’S ON The MULL OF KINTYRE BIKE CHALLENGE, on 12 October, has four options, from three to 70 miles, to suit different ages and abilities. .
Dundee
FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Avis, Arnold Clark, Alamo and Europcar all serve the airport – call 01382 662200. Taxi: Booking in advance is advised. Call Tele Taxis on 01382 669333 or 50 50 50 Taxis on 01382 505050. Train: For destinations and times call 08457 484950 or see nationalrail.co.uk.
BON APPETIT The SHIP INN at Broughty Ferry has great fish and meat dishes, plus fine views. Fisher Street, 01382 779176. The excellent BON APPETIT
brasserie offers tempting dishes such as grilled red mullet with fennel and orange dressing and beetroot puree. Exchange Street, 01382 809000, bonappetit-dundee.com.
NIGHTCAP The SPEEDWELL TAVERN, aka Mennie’s, has a fine Edwardian interior and many whiskies. Perth Road, 01382 667783, speedwell-bar.co.uk.
PILLOW TALK Looking over the waterfront, the APEX is a modern comfort zone with a spa. West Victoria Dock Road, 0845 365 0000, apexhotels.co.uk.
BE A TOURIST Whether you want to shop, enjoy art, or go sightseeing, this city is for you. The OVERGATE SHOPPING CENTRE is a great place to browse, DCA (Dundee Contemporary Arts) has an ever-changing programme of exhibitions and a great café. For maritime history visit Captain Scott’s ship, the RRS DISCOVERY, or HM FRIGATE UNICORN, the oldest Britishbuilt ship still afloat. The SENSATION science centre, with its 60 hands-on exhibits, will excite youngsters’ curiosity.
WHAT’S ON The Caird Hall has a stellar line-up this autumn, with comedian ROSS NOBLE on 1 October, national treasure BILLY CONNOLLY on 11 and 12 October and violin virtuoso NICOLA BENEDETTI on 13 November. Beer fans will enjoy OKTOBERFEST, with music and brews galore at Discovery Quay from 2-4 October. Writers from far and wide gather in the city for the DUNDEE LITERARY FESTIVAL from 22-26 October. The DUNDEE MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL, on 28 and 29 November, has some great speakers, including climber MARTIN MORAN, filmmaker RICHARD ELSE, survival expert LYLE BROTHERTON and handbiker KAREN DARKE. DUNDEE SCIENCE FESTIVAL, 1-16 November, has put together a varied programme.
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ESSENTIALS
46
PERTHSHIRE AMBER, the Dougie McLean Festival, has a wealth of music talent coming to halls of every size from 24 October-2 November.
Inverness FROM THE AIRPORT
Car hire: Options include Avis, 0844 544 6017, Europcar, 01667 460000, and Arnold Clark, 0845 607 4500. Taxi: Book with Inverness Taxis on 01463 222900. See inverness-taxis.co.uk. Bus: Airport bus goes to the city centre for £3.20 single. Stagecoachbus.com or 01463 239292 for other routes. Train: Nearest stations are Inverness and Nairn. See scotrail.com for times.
BON APPETIT
The MUSTARD SEED is rightly busy. 16 Fraser Street, 01463 220220, themustardseed restaurant.co.uk. CAFE1 emphases seafood and quality cuts. 75 Castle Street, 01463 226200, cafe1.net. RIVER HOUSE RESTAURANT, a bright restaurant overlooking the Ness, impresses by using resources of the region. 1 Greig Street, 01463 222033, riverhouseinverness.co.uk. THE KITCHEN, also with some fine river views, is deservedly popular. 15 Huntly Street, 01463 259119, kitchenrestaurant.co.uk.
NIGHTCAP
NUMBER 27 is a bright bar with arcane beers served by friendly staff. 27 Castle Street, 01463 241999, number27inverness. co.uk. Folkies, ceilidh bands and comedy can all be enjoyed at HOOTANANNY’S, 61 Church Street, 01463 233651, hootananny.co.uk. By day the FOUNDRY is a relaxing café. After 8pm it does a brisk trade in beers, wines and cocktails. 28 Church Street, 01463 713005, foundryinverness.co.uk.
PILLOW TALK Luxury is the order of the day at ROCPOOL RESERVE, but it’s not beyond affordable. Culduthel Road, 01463 240089, rocpool.com. The KINGSMILLS HOTEL, set elegantly in four acres of gardens, offers family rooms and two-bedroom, twobathroom apartments. Look out for a thank you letter from Robert Burns, who stayed here in 1787. The leisure club and spa will revitalise you. Culcabock Road, 01463 237166, kingsmillshotel.com. The ROYAL HIGHLAND HOTEL has been much-loved for over a century and a half. In the middle of town, it’s Victorian splendour at its best. Station Square, 01463 251451, royalhighlandhotel.co.uk. TRAFFORD BANK GUEST HOUSE, once home to a bishop, is a delightful place to stay. Each bedroom has a mix of antique and modern furniture. Fairfield Road, 01463 241414, traffordbankguesthouse.co.uk. The luxurious CASTLE STUART, close to Inverness Airport, is a 17th-century tower in its own private grounds. 01463 790745, castlestuart.com.
BE A TOURIST This wonderful city offers delightful RIVERSIDE WALKS and is an enjoyable place to shop. The hinterland is studded with castles and distilleries, many of which offer whisky tastings. The FLORAL HALL is an oasis of peace. Take a boat trip on LOCH NESS to search for the monster, visit nearby BRODIE CASTLE or CAWDOR CASTLE, wander on CULLODEN MOOR, where the Jacobite Rising was crushed in 1746. Equally atmospheric are the prehistoric CLAVA CAIRNS, a group of burial mounds in unspoilt woodland.
WHAT’S ON
MICHAEL PALIN, Monty Python legend turned nonstop traveller, comes to the
Eden Court on 14 September with a show to mark publication of his latest volume of diaries. Two great singersongwriters from different eras play the venue in October – JOAN ARMATRADING on 19 October and RACHEL SERMANNI on 26 October. Eden Court has the ever-droll STEPHEN FRY in a livestreamed show on 1 October and wildlife cameraman GORDON BUCHANAN in person, with his show Lost Adventures, on 21 October. CROMARTY FILM FESTIVAL, 5-7 December, is small in scale but big in appeal.
Islay FROM THE AIRPORT
Car hire: Booking in advance is advisable, with Islay Car Hire on 01496 810544 or D and N Mackenzie on 01496 302324. Taxi: Call Carol MacDonald Taxis on 01496 302155, Fiona’s Taxis on 01496 301622, Lamont’s Taxis on 01496 810449 or Rhinns Taxis on 01496 850170. Bus: Most places on the island are linked by B Mundell’s bus. Call 01496 840274 or ask at information desk.
BON APPETIT
The HARBOUR INN serves beef, lamb and seafood with style, in a scenic setting. Bowmore, 01496 810330, harbour-inn.com.
NIGHTCAP There’s a superb choice of malt whiskies at the LOCHSIDE HOTEL. Bowmore, 01496 810244, lochsidehotel.co.uk.
PILLOW TALK Charming rooms, great food and a beautiful location make the PORT CHARLOTTE HOTEL a great place to stay. 01496 850360, portcharlottehotel.co.uk. Friendly, historic, handy for all parts of the island, the BRIDGEND HOTEL is committed to local produce. 01496 810212, info@bridgend-hotel.com. AN
TAIGH-OSDA is a cool hotel in Bruichladdich, overlooking Loch Indaal. 01496 850587, antaighosda.co.uk. KILMENY COUNTRY HOUSE is a small luxury hotel near Port Askaig. Occupying a great vantage point, it is set within woods and farmland. There are four colour-themed bedrooms and a suite. 01496 840668, kilmeny.co.uk. COILLABUS ECO DWELLINGS are two luxury cottages on the wild Oa peninsula. Each sleeps four and has a hand-made hot tub. Built with reclaimed wood and stone, the cottages have turfed roofs. 01852 200565, coillabus.com. The ISLAY HOTEL, in Port Ellen, has been rebuilt, and its pristine white walls shine out over the harbour, while the wood inside is warm and welcoming. Call 01496 300109. The OLD EXCISE HOUSE at Laphroaig is comfy, historic, welcoming – and walking distance from three distilleries. 01496 302567, theoldexcisehouse.com. The ISLAND BEAR, on the main street in Bowmore, is a recent, very tasteful addition to the island’s B&B options. 01496 810375, islandbear.co.uk.
BE A TOURIST Islay is much less crowded and commercial than, say, Skye or Mull, yet its attractions are just as powerful. Not least is its status as a stronghold of whisky making, and all eight DISTILLERIES are open to visitors at various times. The island is a superb destination for walkers, anglers and birdwatchers. Autumn is the time to see geese by their tens of thousands – barnacle, brent, white-fronted, greylag and others. For a historical day out, it’s hard to beat FINLAGGAN, the ancient seat of the Lords of the Isles, and though the buildings are ruins, the site, beside a beautiful loch, is atmospheric. The ISLAY WOOLLEN MILL, at Bridgend, made the Highland tweed gear sported by Mel Gibson and Liam Neeson in their historical epics. Its shop is well worth a
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St Magnus Catheral in Kirkwall
Stromness, 19-21 September, features artists such as Half Deaf Clatch, Northsyde and Sparo and the Yahs – not household names, but all with big followings in the blues world. The ORKNEY STORYTELLING FESTIVAL runs from 23-26 October.
Stornoway FROM THE AIRPORT
Car hire: Carhire Hebrides has its fleet based at the airport. Call 01851 706500 or see carhire-hebrides.co.uk. Taxi: Order from Castle Cabs, 01851 704636, before your arrival, pick one up at the terminal or call airport information, 01851 702256. Bus: Hourly service to town centre, Monday to Saturday. Visit cne-siar.gov.uk/travel. visit. 01496 810563, islaywoollenmill.co.uk. The MUSEUM OF ISLAY LIFE, at Port Charlotte, has exhibits dating from 8000BC to the 20th century and countless books and pictures. 01496 850358, islaymuseum.org.
WHAT’S ON The music festival on neighbouring Jura, 26-28 September, stars WOLFSTONE in the Sunday night concert in the distillery cooperage. The ISLAY SESSIONS, 7-9 November, is a traditional music festival to keep spirits up as winter draws near.
Kirkwall FROM THE AIRPORT
Car hire: Call WR Tullock on 01856 875500. Taxi: Call Bob’s Taxis on 01856 876543, Craigies Taxis on 01856 878787, George’s Taxis on 07541 034830 or Stromness Taxis on 01856 852852. Bus: The Jet bus operated by Stagecoach in Orkney runs all day – for times call the firm on 01856 870555 or the airport information desk on 01856 886210. See stagecoachbus. com for other Orkney routes.
BON APPETIT
LUCANO is named after Lucania, southern Italy, where the owner hails from, and this bright restaurant sticks to its roots, with the emphasis on good, fresh ingredients. 31-33 Victoria Street, Kirkwall, 01856 875687, lucanokirkwall.com.
NIGHTCAP
HELGI’S is Viking-inspired and very tasteful, with its slate floor, wood panelling and cosy atmosphere. A great place to enjoy real ale, good coffee and home baking. Albert Street, 01856 879293.
PILLOW TALK
At historic WOODWICK HOUSE if you want a walk in the woods or on the beach, both are yards away. Evie, 01856 751330, woodwickhouse.co.uk.
BE A TOURIST Kirkwall is enjoyable to wander around, with a busy harbour, narrow streets, lively pubs and the stately ST MAGNUS CATHEDRAL. Further afield, renowned archaeological wonders vie for attention. Perhaps the best of all is the prehistoric village of SKARA BRAE, with its perfectly intact shelves and
doorways. Also stunning is the chambered tomb of MAESHOWE, with its passage carefully aligned so that the winter solstice sun shines through it to illuminate the chamber. The RING OF BRODGAR is up there with Callanish and Stonehenge in the standing stones league table, and the BROUGH OF BIRSAY, a tidal island rich in Norse ruins and birdlife, is an unforgettable place. The Neolithic TOMB OF THE EAGLES on South Ronaldsay is also worth a visit – you slide in on a large homemade skateboard. Just as intriguing is the ornate ITALIAN CHAPEL, painted by Italian prisoners during the Second World War. ORKNEY BREWERY, where beers such as Dark Island and Skull Splitter are made for a growing tribe of fans, is well worth a visit, with tours of the brewhouse and fermentation rooms and a nice café.
WHAT’S ON
The ORKNEY INTERNATIONAL SCIENCE FESTIVAL, 4-10 September, features a look at Norse and Scottish genetics and an event marking the 450th anniversary of Galileo’s birth. The ORKNEY BLUES FESTIVAL, at
BON APPETIT
At the elegant PARK RESTAURANT you might start with seafood filo baskets, moving on to Lewis lamb shank and spicy mint couscous. 30 James Street, 01851 702485, theparkguesthouse.co.uk. Booking is essential at DIGBY CHICK restaurant, which has two menus – one for early birds, and an à la carte from 7pm. Expect ultra-fresh ingredients, expertly prepared. 5 Bank Street, 01851 700026, digbychick.co.uk. AN LANNTAIR is a thriving arts centre with workshops, a cinema and gallery. The restaurant and bar overlooks the harbour, and serves food from 10am till late. Kenneth Street, 01851 703307, lanntair.com.
NIGHTCAP
MCNEILLS is a cosy bar with live music. 11 Cromwell Street, 01851 703330. The STAR INN is small but has a good selection of spirits. 13 South Beach, 01851 702289.
PILLOW TALK
BROAD BAY HOUSE, a fine guesthouse, is at Back, on the coast seven miles north of Stornoway. Its spacious rooms, furnished in solid oak, have wi-fi
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and iPod docks. You’ll find a tray with wine, biscuits, fruit, water and a stamped postcard to send home. 01851 820990, broadbayhouse.co.uk. The three-star CABARFEIDH HOTEL, about a mile from the town centre, scores highly for its cuisine and service. It also has good facilities for business guests. Manor Park, Perceval Road South, 01851 702604, cabarfeidh-hotel.co.uk. HOLM VIEW GUEST HOUSE is minutes from the airport. This four-star, five-bedroom house has splendid sea views and a host who goes out of his way to ensure that guests enjoy their stay. 18 Rathad na Bhraighe, 01851 706826. BRAIGHE HOUSE, overlooking the sea just a few minutes from the airport, has five immaculate bedrooms and the breakfast menu has the Braighe House Stack – Stornoway black pudding topped with bacon, potato scone and a free-range poached egg. 20 Braighe Road, 01851 705287, braighehouse.co.uk.
BE A TOURIST Stornoway is a great place to relax and explore. Spend time at the harbour, watching the fishermen unload their catches – which you could be eating in a couple of hours. Be sure to see CALLANISH, one of Britain’s most magical places. No-one knows the exact purpose of these ancient standing stones, but their power is undeniable. Nearby, DUN CARLOWAY BROCH is a magnificent Iron Age tower you can explore.
WHAT’S ON MARK RADCLIFFE and his Band of Foes play An Lanntair on 25 September. On 1 October, the venue holds its first ever live streaming event, featuring STEPHEN FRY doing his More Fool Me show at the Royal Festival Hall in London to launch his latest volume of memoirs. Scottish Opera will be here in person on 21 October to perform
MACBETH. From 29 October to 1 November, the FACLAN literary festival takes a First World War theme, and has lined up some great writers, such as Trevor Royle and Robert Macfarlane.
PILLOW TALK The 32-room SUMBURGH HOTEL, very handy for the airport, is friendly and comfortable. 01950 460394, sumburghhotel.com.
BE A TOURIST
Sumburgh FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Call Star Rent-a-Car on 01950 460444. Taxi: Call Boddam Cabs on 01950 460111, J & I Taxis on 01950 422207 or Allied Taxis on 01595 690069. Bus: A regular airport bus takes you to Lerwick in about 40 minutes. Call John Leask & Sons on 01565 693162.
BON APPETIT BUSTA HOUSE deserves its reputation among foodies. Busta, 01806 522506, bustahouse.com. The SCALLOWAY HOTEL twins stunning waterfront views with a high-quality menu that makes a feature of Shetland’s excellent seafood. Main Street, Scalloway, 01595 880444, scallowayhotel.co.uk.
NIGHTCAP THE LOUNGE is a busy pub in Lerwick, good for live music as well as popular quizzes. Mounthooly Street, 01595 692231
Beside the airport is one of Shetland’s principal sights – JARLSHOF. It contains remains from 2,500BC up to the 17th century, making it a fascinating place to visit. MOUSA BROCH is the best preserved Pictish tower in the country. WILDLIFE is a Shetland strong suit, with Arctic skuas, great northern divers and killer whales among species to spot. On Yell the SHETLAND GALLERY aims to showcase the islands’ best contemporary art.
GUITAR FESTIVAL, 6-8 November, curated by Martin Taylor and featuring talents from far afield, such as Australia’s Tommy Emmanuel, and from Shetland, too.
Tiree FROM THE AIRPORT Car and bike hire: Call MacLennans, 01879 220555. Taxi: Order from John Kennedy Taxis, 01879 220419. Bus: The on-demand dial-abus is on 01879 220419.
BON APPETIT CEABAR is a guest house with a very popular restaurant commanding great sunset views. Booking advised. 01879 220684, ceabar.com.
WHAT’S ON
NIGHTCAP
Knitting, spinning, weaving and dyeing are all on the agenda at SHETLAND WOOL WEEK, 4-12 October – in its fifth year and growing fast. The SHETLAND FOOD FAIR, 14-16 November, attracts some of the islands’ top producers. Musically, autumn is a good time to be on the islands, with the SHETLAND ACCORDION AND FIDDLE FESTIVAL being held for the 27th time from 9-13 October. It’s followed by the SHETLAND INTERNATIONAL
The TIREE LODGE HOTEL is a popular, often lively pub at Gott Bay, 01879 220368.
PILLOW TALK ROCKVALE GUEST HOUSE is a friendly, comfortable place to stay, with a lovely, bright lounge. 01879 220675, rockvaletiree.co.uk. The charming SCARINISH HOTEL offers simple, beautifully cooked food. After eating, relax in the Lean To bar. 01879 220308, tireescarinishhotel.com.
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KIRKAPOL HOUSE is a converted Victorian church beside the sea. The hosts are happy to collect guests from the airport and will supply packed lunches. 01879 220729, kirkapoltiree.co.uk.
BE A TOURIST
AN IODHLANN is the island’s historical centre and the place to shed light on your Tiree ancestry. See aniodhlann.co.uk or call 01879 220793. The RINGING STONE is a boulder that makes a metallic clang when hit with another stone. DUN MOR, at Vaul, is a broch, or place of refuge, built in about 60AD. Tiree is one of the UK’s windiest places, and also among the sunniest and most beautiful, with white, sandy beaches. See isleoftiree.com.
WHAT’S ON
The TIREE WAVE CLASSIC, which attracts windsurfers and supporters from across the globe, is from 12-17 October.
Wick John O’Groats FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Book with Dunnetts Garage on 01955 602103, Richards Garage on 01955 604123, Europcar on 01667 462052 or National Car Hire on 01463 238084. Taxi: Call Jimmy’s Taxis on 01955 602727, Johnnie’s Taxis on 01955 605041 or Millers Taxis on 01955 606464. Bus: Stagecoach 82 and 182 buses stop at the airport, providing connections to Wick and Thurso. The 25X links Wick with Inverness. For times see stagecoachbus.com or call 01463 239292. Train: Wick station is 1.5 miles from the airport, with trains to Thurso and Inverness and stations between.
NIGHTCAP
The ALEXANDER BAIN, named after the Wick man who invented the electric clock, is a bright, roomy bar, serving a good choice of ales and bar meals. 01955 609920. The PORTLAND ARMS is an atmospheric and cosy former coaching inn in Lybster. 01593 721721, portlandarms.co.uk.
HEATHROW CONNECTIONS
PILLOW TALK
The QUAYSIDE B&B is friendly and every room has a harbour view. Harbour Quay, 01955 603229, quaysidewick.fsnet.co.uk.
BE A TOURIST
WICK HERITAGE MUSEUM has won awards for its displays on the town’s history as a fishing port and centre for glass-making and distilling. CAITHNESS HORIZONS, in Thurso, is a must-visit museum, with much to see and regular events. TIMESPAN, in Helmsdale, is a superb attraction loved by genealogists and casual visitors alike. JOHN O’ GROATS is the most northerly settlement in mainland Britain and is being transformed. A few miles west is the CASTLE OF MEY, with its ornate turrets and walled garden. The FLOW COUNTRY, Europe’s biggest blanket bog, is a striking landscapes, with a bleak appearance but a wealth of birdlife. Ruined CASTLE SINCLAIR GIRNIGOE is a fine sight.
WHAT’S ON Caithness Horizons, in Thurso, is hosting a Norse-themed harvest festival, or VETRABLOT, on 24-25 October.
Need to get to Heathrow? It’s easy via airports reached from Inverness and Dundee. Times and prices are a guide.
From Luton A pre-booked taxi from Prestige Airport Cars takes 50 minutes, and costs from £55. A National Express coach takes from 55 minutes and costs from £22.90.
From Gatwick A pre-booked taxi from Prestige Airport Cars takes 45 minutes, from £45. A National Express coach takes 1 hour 5 minutes and costs from £25.
From London Stansted An hourly National Express coach runs directly from London Stansted to Heathrow, taking 1 hour 20 minutes, and tickets can be bought at a ticket desk in the airport, at the bus station or on the coach. Fare from £26.80.
From London City A pre-booked taxi from Riverside Cars takes 1 hour 15 minutes, from £50. To transfer to Heathrow via Docklands Light Railway (DLR) to Canning Town, Jubilee line tube to Green Park and Piccadilly line tube costs £5.30 and takes 1 hour 40 minutes. Or take the DLR to Canning Town, Jubilee line tube to Baker Street, Bakerloo line tube to Paddington (1 hour) then Heathrow Express, which leaves Paddington every 15 minutes and takes 15 minutes to reach Heathrow. This costs a total of £24.30.
Contact prestigeairportcars.co.uk / 03331 231818 riversidecarslondon.com / 020 7231 7766 nationalexpress.com / 08717 818181 For train and tube information see tfl.gov.uk
BON APPETIT
The CAPTAIN’S GALLEY, a superb seafood restaurant with a loyal following, serves the best local produce in a converted ice house and bothy. The Harbour, Scrabster, 01847 894999, captainsgalley.co.uk.
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50 my autumn_50 My autumn 11/08/2014 15:55 Page 50
MY AUTUMN
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Tony Pollard THE BROADCASTER AND ARCHAEOLOGIST WILL SOON BE ON OUR SCREENS AGAIN – BUT THAT’S NOT ALL THAT’S BEEN KEEPING HIM BUSY
I
’M REALLY looking forward to After Bannockburn being shown. It tells the story of Edward Bruce’s invasion of Ireland, and filming it was new territory for me. I had been to Faughart, where he died, and I had been to Dublin, but the other places I was seeing for the first time. If I’m learning stuff, then hopefully the viewer will as well. I have strong Irish roots, and making the programmes really enthused me about the country. For the first Bannockburn programmes we were doing original research – we were on the ground trying to peel back layers of history and it was a long, intricate process. I enjoyed the Irish experience in that I could stand in the landscape and get a feel for what these events must have been like without the burden of doing the archaeology, which is extremely time consuming. Television allows me to go to places that I couldn’t through academia. I spent three weeks this summer making a series on Second World War German military engineering that took me to the Polish-Russian border, to the Wolf’s Lair, up to the north of Norway to look at the wreck of the Turpitz and to V-1 sites in France. It’s very intense – anyone who says television is easy is being slightly disingenuous. To know that people all over the world will be watching these programmes I find very rewarding. The number of archaeology students has gone up immeasurably thanks to
• AUTUMN 2014
programmes like Time Team, and in a smaller way ours. When Neil Oliver and I are working together we are like two halves of one person. We’ve known each other since we were firstyear students and TV crews often find us in some corner laughing our heads off. For me, autumn means the start of the academic year. Getting the new students is always a pleasure. This autumn, for me, there will be a lot of First World War events. I am running a project on the experience of Glasgow University in the war – four and a half thousand students and staff took part and several hundred were killed. At any time of year, my favourite place in Scotland is Loch Fyne, where I have a small house – well, a jumped-up shack – with the sea at the bottom of the garden. I’ve got otters, red squirrels and a burn. I’ll spend some time there trying to finish my second novel, which is a horror story set in an Austrian castle with British prisoners of war in it. It’s Escape from Colditz meets Stephen King. I like to let the imagination fly a bit. £ Tony Pollard is director of the Centre for Battlefield Archaeology at Glasgow University. With Neil Oliver, he presented the BBC documentaries Two Men In A Trench and The Quest for Bannockburn. After Bannockburn is to be shown this autumn.
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