Aurora spring summer 2014 by Aurora Magazine

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BARCELONA

BRILLIANT BARCELONA

A glorious panorama of the city; a pavement café in the Ribera district, right; an Antoni Gaudí creation, La Pedrera, top right

• SPRING/SUMMER 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS: L BERTRAN/JORDI TRULLÀS/ESPAI D’IMATGE/A CONTRALUZ

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THE CAPITAL OF CATALONIA IS A BYWORD FOR CREATIVE BRILLIANCE IN THE STUDIO, FOOTBALL STADIUM AND KITCHEN. GRAHAM KEELEY, WHO HAS MADE THE CITY HIS HOME, SAYS THERE IS NOWHERE MORE WORTHY OF A VISIT

tepping off the plane at the airport most visitors get the feeling that they have finally made it to one of the world’s must see cities: Barcelona. Long one of Europe’s most fashionable destinations, it is fast joining that select club of cities that attracts visitors 365 days a year. Like London, New York and Paris, Barcelona is now bustling from Christmas to the height of summer. Depending on the season, visitors come in search of the city’s eclectic mix of cosmopolitan cool, classic Modernist architecture and great beaches. But it wasn’t always that way. Just over 20 years ago, this was a city where you could not get to the beach because it was an industrial port. The 1992 Olympic Games changed all that. The place was radically transformed into a modern city and soon became one of the hippest resorts for weekend breaks or longer holidays. Last year 7.5 million tourists came here.

Eccentric But where to head for first? La Sagrada Familia, Antoni Gaudí’s unfinished masterpiece, is the place people feel they must see even if they are not architecture lovers. It is never a wasted journey. When you arrive, the eight huge towers of La Sagrada loom out of nowhere. The eccentric mix of coloured baubles on the exterior of the building contrast with the more austere modern interior. One of the world’s most famous works in progress, it was started in 1882. However, construction was cut short by the death of its creator in 1926 when Gaudí was knocked down by a tram. Things were not helped when anarchists burnt the plans in the Spanish Civil War. Since then a team of

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BARCELONA

The Torre Agbar, on the edge of the commercial district

architects have had to guess what Gaudí had in mind. They now estimate the temple will finally be finished sometime between 2026 and 2028. But don’t hold your breath. As Gaudí himself put it: “My client is in no hurry,” referring to God. Be warned: if you just turn up you will be waiting for hours in the queues so a better idea is to book a place beforehand. If you have come to Barcelona to gorge yourself on Gaudí, then head to Parc Guell, a lovely rambling park in the north of the city whose most appealing features are the architect’s bizarre lizard-like stone statues. Gaudí was only one of the architects behind the park, which is taken as a prime example of the Modernisme movement in architecture and art during the 19th century. Unfortunately it is such a popular place the authorities have started to charge for the pleasure. Again, to avoid the queues book ahead. Casa Battló and La Pedrera, two other Gaudí creations, on Passeig de Gracia, are really worth taking in. Intended as functional houses for the city’s wellheeled elite, they are now museums. And after that, if you have had enough of architecture and fancy a bit of retail therapy, Passeig de Gracia is ideal. Join the rich Chinese and Russians as they stock up on Chanel, Gucci, Armani and other luxury brands. That is if your credit card can take the pain.

Messiah But some come to Barcelona for just one thing: a visit to the city’s alternative cathedral: the Nou Camp football stadium, home of Barça – pictured right. The team’s museum, replete with its glittering silverware, is included on guided tours. For any self-respecting football fan, visiting one of the great cathedrals of the game is probably a must. If you want to get tickets for matches, they are not hard to come by. The Barça shop in Plaza Catalunya sells tickets along with any amount of paraphernalia from teddy bears to team strips. Or try the club’s website. However, if you think tickets to see Barça are too much, try FC Espanyol, the city’s other team. You won’t see Lionel Messi and Co but you will still sample the excitement of Spanish football at first hand. If you can’t manage a match but just want a glimpse of Messi (or Messiah as he is known locally), head for his favourite restaurant 9Reinas (Nine Queens). The

• SPRING/SUMMER 2014

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Left: the Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar, a 14th-century Gothic masterpiece. Below: the Costa Llobera gardens

plush Argentine eaterie serves marvellous steaks – Messi prefers the Nebraska, since you ask. Spain’s second religion aside, Barcelona offers plenty for all. The second most visited site in the city is the Aquarium, perhaps because it is ideal for families. Visitors can walk through a tunnel and watch sharks swim over their heads. The Aquarium has a wide range of fish and marine life and once you are finished you could catch a bite to eat nearby in Barceloneta. Once a small fishing village, Barceloneta is now home to a summer tourist invasion and to a new marina where billionaires dock their superyachts. It does boast some of the city’s best fish restaurants or no-nonsense chiringuitos (beach bars) right next to the water. One fish restaurant which stands out is Suquet de L’Almirall (Passeig de Joan de Borbó 65). If you reserve a table outside you might like to spy on Chelsea owner Roman Abramovich’s yacht. If you prefer some tapas and a beer try Vaso de Oro (Carrer de Balboa 6). It is a long thin bar with tapas – a typical Spanish bar where you won’t be able to hear yourself think. The beach in front of Barceloneta is the most popular in the city, both with swimmers and surfers. But beware: it is also a happy hunting ground for thieves who prey on tourists either when they are in the water or when they (the thieves) are selling beers or offering massages or remedies for sundry ailments. From Barceloneta it is a short stroll into one of the city’s hippest areas, El Born. Here, in the tiny winding streets, you will find a mix of the best bars, restaurants and boutiques.

Behold If you want a bit of peace after this heady cocktail, you could drop into La Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar, a working church and a perfect example of Gothic architecture, which dates from the 14th century. Nearby is the Museo Picasso. Maite Ocaña, a former curator of the museum, said: “Though Picasso spent much of his life in France when he was in exile, we wanted to celebrate his most formative years, when he was in Barcelona surrounded by artists like Salvador Dalí.” Art lovers should also head to the Fundacion Miró, which celebrates the life and works of another of Barcelona’s most famous sons, Joan Miró. The sculptures and huge colourful works are something to behold. The foundation also has visiting exhibitions. Caixa Forum, which is near Plaza España, is a free museum that hosts visiting exhibitions of the latest cutting edge artists and the Masters. Another place worth visiting is the National Museum of Art of Catalonia, which mostly houses local artists but does sometimes have visiting collections worth catching. However, Barcelona has a rich tradition of art and there are many small private galleries that you come across as you stroll through the streets. If all this high culture gives you an appetite, there are plenty of places to satisfy it. Ferrán Adrià was the pioneer of alta cocina who concocted his recipes at a laboratory just off the famous La Rambla boulevard, more of which shortly. Known as the godfather of

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BARCELONA

molecular gastronomy – a nickname he hates – he is the man whose El Bulli on the Costa Brava won best restaurant five times from The Restaurant magazine. His mouth-watering mixtures of flavours and chemicals inspired a generation of imitators. But Adrià had enough of 15-hour days and not making enough cash from the restaurant itself so to the disappointment of foodies everywhere, he closed it down. He is due to open a new Mexican restaurant called Yaguarcan (House of the Jaguar) this summer in Barcelona. Meanwhile, his brother, Albert Adrià, runs what is probably the hottest gastronomic ticket in town, a tapas bar called Tickets Bar. Try to make a reservation for this upmarket restaurant about a month before you go. It is like no other.

Fantastic For something a little less fancy, head for El Born, which has some of the best tapas bars in the city, serving Spanish, Catalan or Basque specialities. Alternatively, if you are suddenly homesick and fancy a curry, head to El Raval. The Pakistani and Indian community there have opened a host of restaurants, many of which are excellent. No visit to Barcelona would be complete without two experiences; a stroll down La Rambla and a visit to Tibidabo. La Rambla is a mixture of strange bird sellers, human statues, trashy souvenirs and street thieves. Watch your pockets but enjoy the spectacle. Once at the end, you are at the statue of Columbus, who may or may not have been from Barcelona. If you fancy taking in the entire city, head up to Tibidabo, on the hill above the city, by bus, train and then finally by tram and have a drink at the bar at the top. For children there is a fantastic funfair, which is a marvellous relic from the Seventies. Visca Barcelona, as the locals say. 

A busy day on La Rambla. Below: Gaudí lizard at Parc Guell

Barcelona basics CATALONIAN SITES TO SEE

Fly very affordably to Barcelona from Inverness via London Gatwick in less than six hours. www.skyscanner.net. 9 REINAS www.nuevereinas.com NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ART OF CATALONIA www.mnac.cat CAIXA FORUM BARCELONA www.caixaforum.es PICASSO MUSEUM www.museupicasso.bcn.cat FUNDACION MIRÓ BARCELONA www.funacionmiro-bcn.org PARC GUELL www.parcguell.cat SUQUET DE L’ALMIRALL www.suquetdelalmirall.com BARCELONA FC www.fcbarcelona.es TICKETS BAR en.bcn50.org SAGRADA FAMILIA www.sagradafamilia.cat

• SPRING/SUMMER 2014

aurora spring 14 ad pages_Ad Pages 4/30/14 1:42 PM Page 23

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FIOLMADH

AN LUACH ANNS AN DEALBH ‘S ANN NAS COMANTA A THA A’ FÀS DHA LUCHD-DEALBHACHAIDH A BHITH TIGHINN DHAN GHÀIDHEALTACHD AGUS, MAR A THA MURRAY MACLEÒID AG AITHRIS, THA COTHROMAN NA LÙIB NACH BEAG

han eil mòran san t-saoghail cho breàgha ri seallaidhean na Gàidhealtachd is nan Eilean: beanntan mòra cumhachdail, muir gleansach, gorm is gleanntan uaine, ciùin. ‘S beag an tiongnadh ged eil i a’ laighe cho furasta air an an t-sùil. Fad bhliadhnachan tha luchd nan dealbhan air a bhith air an tarraing chun na sgìre, agus tha sin furasta a thuigsinn. Bhon fhiolm ainmeil Highlander sna hOchdadan — a rinn feum de dh’ìomhaigh ainmeal Chaisteal Eilean Dhonain — suas gu James Bond is Skyfall ann an Gleann Comhainn, tha luchd-cruthachaidh air a bhith air am beò-ghlacadh le àrainneachd àraidh na Gàidhealtachd.

CLÌ: The Decoy Bride (2011), ﬁlm a chaidh a dhèanamh aig diofar àitean ann an Alba, le Kelly Macdonald agus David Tennant

Chan e a-mhàin gu bheil sin a’ cuideachadh le bhith togail ìomhaigh an àite fhèin am measg an t-sluaigh, ach tha e cuideachd air a bhith na ghnìomhachas feumail ann fhèin. Agus ‘s ann nas trainge fhathast a tha cùisean a’ fàs. Tha oidhirpean sònraichte air a bhith gan dèanamh fad bliadhnachan a-nis gus barrachd is barrachd dhaoine ann an saoghal telebhisein is fiolm a thàladh chun na sgìre. Chan e a-mhàin gu bheil seallaidhean àlainn ann dhaibh, thatar a’ cumail a-mach, ach tha na goireasan a’ fàs nas fhèarr fad na h-ùine. Gheibhear air sgiobaidhean foilm a laimhseachadh gu glan, tha e coltach. Tha pàirt mhòr aig Cailean Simpson, a

CLÌ: Sgioba telebhisean a’ dèanamh ﬁlm athchòireachadh de Rosamunde Pilcher aig Preston Mill, Lodainn an Ear

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‘B e Caisteal Eilean Donan an àrdachadh-inntinn airson nan seallaidhean anns am ﬁlm ainmeil Brave

tha stèidhichte an InbhirNis, ri chluiche ann a bhith ag obair le riochdairean is coimhearsnachdan. Bho chionn grunn bhliadhnachan chur Comhairle na Gàidhealtachd ionad sònraichte air chois airson dèiligeadh ris a’ ghnìomhachas, mar thoradh air na cothroman a bha iad a’ faicinn ann. ‘S e Cailean, aig a bheil gnothaich cuideachd ri turasachd, a tha os a chionn. “Bho thaobh teach-a-steach ann an airgead, ‘s e rudan mar sanasan telebhisein as cudromaiche,” thuirt e. “‘S dòcha nach eil buidseatan mòra aca, ach tha sinn a’ faicinn barrachd dhiubh. Le bhith ag ràdh sin, nuair a tha rud le buidseat mòr a’ tighinn tha e a’ ciallachadh

CLÌ: Daniel Craig agus Aston Martin 007 ann an Gleanna Comhann airson ﬁlmeadh Skyfall

an t-uabhas a thaobh ìomhaigh. “Thug crìonadh san eaconamaidh buaidh air cùisean. Cha robh uimhir de dhaoine a’ tighinn thugainn. Ach, tha a huile coltas g’ eil e air togail a-rithist. Tha mi dìreach air a bhith a’ bruidhinn ri riochdaire bho Hollywood — chan urrainn dhomh a ràdh cò a th’ ann aig an ìre-sa — agus iad airson sùil a thoirt air a’ Ghàidhealtachd a dh’fhaicinn dè cho freagarrach ‘s a tha i son fiomadh.” Gu cinnteach, tha coltas ann gu bheil an t-Eilean Sgitheanach gu sònraichte a’ còrdadh ri luchd nam fiolmaichean. Sa Ghearran, chaidh fiolm de MacBeth — le Michael Fassbender bho 12 Years a Slave na chleasaiche — a chlàradh, ann am pàirt,

CLÌ: Tha Merida a’ dol an aghaidh Rìgh Fergus ann am Brave

CLÌ: A’ ﬁlmeadh a’ phrògram cloinne coiteanta Katie Morag. Dealbh: Jerry Kelly

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FIOLMADH

air an eilean agus ann an 2012 bha Bodach an Stoir anns am fiolm aig Ridley Scott Prometheus, a bha togail air an dealbh ainmeil Aliens. Bha am fiolm 47 Ronin le Keanu Reeves cuideachd san Eilean Sgitheanach agus thàinig sin a-mach ann an 2012. Thuirt Maureen NicRaild, manaidsear an Taigh-Òsta Rìoghail ann am Port Rìgh, prìomh bhaile an Eilein Sgitheanaich: “Bha sgioba againn ann an seo a’ fuireach sa Ghearran (son MacBeth). ‘S e na daoine air cùl gnothaichean a bha fuireach còmhla rinne; bha an còrr ann an taighean-òsta eile. Bha e math bho taobh gnìomhachas dheth. Thug e togail a bharrachd dhuinne, chan eil teagamh sam bith an sin.” Beagan sìos an rathad bhuapa tha an taigh-òsta spaideil an Cuillin Hills. ‘S i Seònaid Stoddart am manaidsear. Thuirt i: “Bha e na bhuannachd mhòr. Bha sinn loma-làn son seachdain is suas gu deich là anns a’ Ghearran, aig àm geamhraidh nuair a tha sinn caran sàmhach. “B’fheudar dha tòrr dhe na h-àitichean leabaidh is bracaist is àitichean fuirich eile fosgladh tràth airson daoine a ghabhail. Bha thu a’ bruidhinn air 200 leabaidh. Fhuair tòrr dhe na gnìomhachasan ionadail buannachd às. Mar eisimpleir, ruith a’ bhuth shìos air a’ chidhe a-mach à bòtannan. Thug e togail mhòr dhan àite.”

Daniel Craig agus Judi Dench ann an Gleanna Comhann a’ ﬁlmeadh Skyfall

Thatar a’ meas gur fhiach gnìomhachas am fiolm luach £4 gu £5 millean gach bliadhna dhan Ghàidhealtachd — ged a tha sinn dualtach atharrachaidhean mòra fhaicinn. Mar eisimpleir, gheibh thu can suas gu £1 mhillean son aon fiolm mòr bho Hollywood na aonar. Tha cuideachd na h-iomairtean sanasachd a tha a’ tighinn na chois. Bho chionn dà bhliadhna, chosg VisitScotland £7 millean air iomairt margaidheachd a ràinig corr air 500 millean duine air feadh an t-saoghail, le dùil gun cruthaich e £140 millean dha companaidhean Albannach thairis an ath dheich bliadhna — figearan air leth fhèin mòr. Do dhaoine leithid Cailean Simpson, ged-ta, ‘s e am prìomh amas dèanamh cinnteach gu bheil a’ Ghaidhealtachd deiseil airson brath a ghabhail air na cothroman a tha anns a’ ghnìomhachas. ‘S dòcha gu bheil beachd ann fhathast gu bheil an sgìre ro iomallach, nach eil seirbheisean coileanta rim faighinn agus caran cosgail. Ach, tha sin cuideachd ag atharrachadh, a rèir Cailean. “‘S ann tro bheul-aithris as mòtha a bhios an gnìomachas ag obair agus tha sinn dìreach a’ feuchainn ri dèanamh cinnteach gu bheil a h-uile càil ann an àite

• EARRACH/SAMHRADH 2014

DEALBH: SONY/EON/MGM

An eaconamaigh

24-28 Gaelic_Gaelic 4/30/14 11:13 AM Page 27

dhaibh nuair a thig iad,” thuirt e. “‘S urrainn dhuinn comhairle a thoirt seachad air dè na h-àitichean as freagarraiche son fiolmadh, a rèir nam feumalachdan aca. Mar eisimpleir, ma tha iad ag iarraidh tràigh le craobhan anns a’ chùl faodaidh sinn innse dhaibh càite am faigh iad sin. “Bheir sinn cuideachd dhaibh fiosrachadh air seirbheisean ionadail, mar càite am faigh iad càr air mhàl. Tha na h-àitichean fuirich ann cuideachd agus dh’fhaodadh sin a bhith duilich aig an àm cheàrr dhen bhliadhna, ach son an fhìrinn innse chan eil sinn a’ cluinntinn dad de ghearainean mu dheidhinn.” Tha Alba Cruthachail — a chaidh a stèidheachadh le bhith toirt còmhla na buidhnean Scrìon na h-Alba agus Comhairle Ealain na h-Alba — ag obair air roiinnleachd ùr deich bliadhna a tha ag amas air Alba, a’ gabhail a-steach na Gàidhealtachd is nan Eileanan, a chruthachadh mar sàr àite son fiolmadh. Thuirt an t-àrd-oifigear aca Seònaid Archer: “Tha fiolm gu math cudromach dhuinne. Mar aon de ar prìomh dhleastanasan, an cois nan ealain agus nan gnìomhachasan cruthachail, tha sinn ag obair gu math cruaidh a dh’fhaicinn ciamar as urrainn dhuinn na goireasan a neartachadh son fiolm le bhith ag obair le ar com-pàirtichean, an Riaghaltas agus buidhnean eile. “Tha an lèirmheas air gnìomhachas am fiolm dol gar cuideachadh ann a bhith a’ dealbh roi-innleachd son fiolm ann an Alba agus tha sinn an dòchas seo a choileanadh ro dheireadh na h-Òg-mhios 2014. Bidh sinn ag obair le riochdairean neo-eisimleach ann an Alba agus daoine eile son a leasachadh. Bidh an roiinnleachd a’ cur a-mach nan amasan a bhios againn san ùine ghoirid, san uine mheadhanach agus san ùina fhada son gnìomhachas am fiolm a leasachadh agus airson faighinn a-mach ciamar a gheibh sinn air na h-amasan sin a choileanadh.”

An tarraing Fhad ‘s a tha na h-oifigearan a strì le dè an dòigh as fheàrr air adhart, tha luchd am fiolm agus na riochdairean daonnan a’ coimhead le sùil gu math fàbharrach air a’ Ghàidhealtachd, le na cothroman a th’ ann son dhealbhan. ‘S e riochdaire is stiùiriche a th’ ann am Mìcheil Hines, a tha glè aithinichte son obair le comadaidh, às dèidh a bhith na stiùiriche air am pròrgam ainmeil Still Game. Bhuannaich e cuideachd duais aig Fèis nam Meadhanan Ceilteach am bliadhna son an comadaidh Gàidhlig “Dà Là san Dàmhair”, a chaidh a dhèanamh dha BBC Alba. Mar chuideigin a tha mion-eòlach air a’ ghnìomhachas agus air a’ Ghàidhealtachd ‘s na hEileanan, tha e a’ tuigsinn glè mhath carson a tha

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FIOLMADH

Merida a’ gabhail cuimse ann am Brave

To read Murray MacLeod’s filming feature in English, see the aurora website, www.aurora-mag.com

uimhir de tharraing ann. “Tha grunn adhbharan airson gu bheil fiolmadh anns a’ Ghàidhealtachd agus na h-Eileanan cho tarraingeach dha daoine,” thuirt e. “Ann am pàirt tha e mu dheidhinn ealain agus ann am pàirt ann an dòigh phractaigeach. “An toiseach, an solas. Tha an solas aig amanan eadar-dhealaiche dhan bhliadhna dìreach mìorbhaileach ann an sgìrean iomallach na Gàidhealtachd. Tha an dath agus na dealbhan dìreach sònraichte agus tlachdmhor dha chlàradh. Cuideachd, chan eil càil a’ cur dragh air an t-solas nàdarrach, mar sin tha an solas a’ fuireach rèidh dhut. “San dàrna h-àite, tha e nas sàmhaiche na àitichean far a bheil barrachd sluagh. Tha seo math bhon taobh phractaigeach dheth bhon tha e a’ ciallachadh nach fheumar stad a’ fiolmadh cho tric sa dh’fhaodadh. “Mar a bhios fios math aig daoine, tha na

CLÌ AGUS CEART: a’ ﬁlmeadh Katie Morag. Dealbh: Jerry Kelly

• EARRACH/SAMHRADH 2014

seallaidhean dìreach air leth, ach cuideachd eadar-dhealaichte, mar sin tha àiteigin mar Leòdhas is na Hearadh a’ toirt farsingeachd de chothroman gun a bhith siubhail slighe fhada. Tha tràighean, mòintichean, beanntan, bailtean, creagan is muir, gu lèir taobh a-staigh uair a thìde de shiubhail. “Gheibh thu air toirt a chreidsinn gu bheil thu ann an Siorrachd Iorc, sa Charibbean (ma tha e grianach!), sa Chumrigh, àite sam bith ann an Alba agus sgìrean beinne le bhith beagan cruthachail leis na deilbh. Mar sin dheth, ‘s e àite air leth a th’ ann son fiolmadh airson faodaidh e bhith càil sam bith agus àite sam bith a thogras thu.” Bho dhràma eachdraidheil gu saoghal ùr craichte, fiadhaich san àm ri teachd, chan eil càil a choltas gu bheil crioch air na cothroman a th’ anns a’ Ghàidhealtachd’s na h-Eileanan, eadar gu bheil thu a’ bruidhinn gu fìor no mas fhìor. £

CLÌ: Michael Caine air an seata airson Kidnapped aig Cuileann Ros, Fìobh

29-33 ryder cup FB_ryder cup- final layout 4/30/14 11:17 AM Page 29

RYDER CUP

THE WORLD IS WATCHING PHOTOGRAPHS: GLENEAGLES/THE PICTURE STORE/EVENTSCOTLAND/VISITSCOTLAND

IN A YEAR OF HUGE EVENTS, THE RYDER CUP WILL PLACE SCOTLAND CENTRE-STAGE WRITES ANDREW ROSS

HIS is a big year for Scotland, with the Commonwealth Games and a historic referendum pending, but an event in late September may yet overshadow them both on the world stage. With an anticipated television audience of 600 million, as well as hundreds of thousands of overseas visitors arriving on our shores to watch in person or in the clubhouses of the country’s great golf courses, Scotland – and its tourism industry – is bracing itself for the Ryder Cup. Between September 23 and 28, the greatest golf show on earth descends on the Gleneagles Hotel resort in picturesque Perthshire. Pitting the finest European and American golfers against each other, this team format golf tournament is not just the biggest golf event on the planet, it is the third biggest sports event of any kind, in terms of television audience, after the Olympic Games and World Cup. Playing host to the extravaganza not only lets Scots see the event on home soil for the first time in 41 years, it will also give Scotland’s economy a boost for years to come.

All smiles – for now: Team captains Tom Watson (United States) and Paul McGinley (Europe) with Ryder Cup trophy, left. Main picture shows the 2nd hole at Gleneagles, with Glen Devon in the background

Leading their teams into four days of fierce competition on the PGA Centenary Course at Gleneagles are captains Paul McGinley (Europe) and Tom Watson (United States). Each team of 12 will be bristling with talent, comprising the nine best performing players of 2013 and 2014 plus three crucial wildcard picks for each captain. As we go to press, leading the charge for a spot on Team Europe are Henrik Stenson, Sergio Garcia, Victor Dubuisson, Rory McIlroy, Ian Poulter and Luke Donald. A similar galaxy of greats leads the US team qualification list with Phil Mickelson, Jim Furyk and Dustin Johnson all looking certainties. Multiple Major winner Tiger Woods and Team Europe stalwarts Lee Westwood and Graeme McDowell are notable absentees from the top of the qualification points lists. And, though these superstars will likely earn enough points to qualify, the captains’ wildcard picks are the ultimate ‘Get out of Jail Free’ cards with history showing that captains’ picks can play a vital AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

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RYDER CUP

Course highlights The Jack Nicklaus-designed PGA Centenary Course has been devised with match play golf in mind. Whereas most tournaments are stroke play – where the lowest score wins the tournament – the Ryder Cup format pits players or pairs of players headto-head, needing only to better their competitor’s score to win a hole. Win enough holes and you win your match. Thus, the Ryder Cup course has been designed for maximum drama, tempting golfers to take risks. It is holes 14 to 18 where the drama really cranks up. The 14th is a drive-able 320-yard par 4 so big hitters will be looking to drive the green to put pressure on their opponents. The 15th demands an accurate drive – with penal rough down the left to be avoided at all costs – followed by an approach to a narrow, long green. Momentum at a key stage of the round can be gained by clever play, or reckless play by your opponent. The 16th is one of the course’s signature holes. A long par 5 with the approach shot to the green played over water. This is where the Ryder Cup could be won or lost on the ﬁnal day. The par 3, 17th provides a little respite before the closing dogleg par 5 – a classic risk/reward hole. A long drive leaves the option of going for the green in two but with a narrow, three-tiered surface with run-offs on both sides, anyone that misses the target will struggle to make bogey.

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Left: the signature 16th

part in proceedings. Ian Poulter, a wildcard pick in 2012, went on to win his four matches as Europe staged an unlikely comeback at Medinah Country Club, Illinois, to clinch the trophy.

History There is huge global interest in this blue ribbon event. Belying golf’s reputation as genteel and reserved, the Ryder Cup has in fact seen some notable battles in recent years. The Ryder Cup was first held at Worcester Country Club, Massachusetts, in 1927 – though a forebear of the tournament had been held at Gleneagles in 1921 – with the biannual event alternating between the USA and Europe ever since. USA dominated in the early

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A dramatic view of the 8th green and its formidable defences

PHOTOGRAPH: SNS GROUP

Left: Luke Donald in action

years, when the opposition comprised the best golfers from GB & Ireland. However, the format was changed in 1979, when continental Europe’s best golfers were welcomed into the fold. It would take a further three meetings before Europe saw success, triumphing at The Belfry in 1985, then again at Muirfield Village, Ohio, in 1987. A tied contest in 1989 saw Europe retain the Cup, but a simmering rivalry between European great Seve Ballesteros and American star Paul Azinger began that would bubble over in 1991 at Kiawah Island, South Carolina, in a Ryder Cup that will forever

be known as the War on the Shore. Against the backdrop of the Iraq war, the USA won back the trophy they had, until 1983, viewed virtually as their entitlement. It is this 1991 contest that is credited with propelling the Ryder Cup from a friendly event held in the Corinthian spirit to a widely anticipated and fierce contest.

Comeback By 1999, with Europe having won five of the previous seven meetings, tensions boiled over at Brookline, Massachusetts, when the USA’s Justin Leonard sank AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

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RYDER CUP

Shadows pick out the dips on the home straight – the 18th. Left: José María Olazábal, who captained Europe to victory in 2012

PHOTOGRAPH: SNS GROUP

a crucial 45-foot putt and teammates and partners celebrated wildly on the green where Europe’s José María Olazábal still had to take his own putt. Olazábal missed, and the USA team went on to win the Battle of Brookline. Europe has won five of the last six meetings, most recently at Medinah in 2012. The Miracle of Medinah saw the European team trail 10-6 only to stage a miraculous comeback to win by 14½-13½ having won eight, lost three and halved one of the final day’s singles matches. Whether Gleneagles 2014 will be a powder keg or a picnic no-one can say, but what is certain is that Scotland will witness the world’s greatest golfers giving their all for their team simply for the glory of it, with not a penny in prize money in sight… And with Gleneagles boasting no obvious alliterative synonym for war or battle perhaps we are braced for Glory in the Glen?

Incredible The Ryder Cup 2014 is not just a great opportunity for McGinley and Watson’s charges to write their way into golfing folklore. It is a great opportunity for the Scottish economy. Airlines, hotels and restaurants and more expect to see a huge upsurge in spending connected to the Ryder Cup. Oversees visitors are • SPRING/SUMMER 2014

expected to travel to Scotland in their tens of thousands, with many of those attending the event remaining in the country for an extended holiday. When Celtic Manor in Wales hosted the Ryder Cup in 2010 the local economy saw £83m spent, with a further £20m said to have “leaked” across the border to Bath and Bristol. With Gleneagles firmly rooted in the heart of Scotland, the country can expect a £100m Ryder Cup boost to the economy. Mike Cantlay, chairman of VisitScotland, says: “Hosting the Ryder Cup, one of the world’s largest sporting events, will not only translate into direct benefits for golf tourism in Scotland, but also to the wider tourism industry. “Due to the central location of Gleneagles, the impact of hosting this incredible event will not only be felt in Perthshire, but right across Scotland, Benefits to Scottish tourism include the accommodation sector, travel and transport companies, Scottish food and drink suppliers, attractions and a wide range of businesses throughout the industry. “We can’t wait to show audiences right across the world why Scotland is the Home of Golf, whilst leaving a legacy that is tangible, visible and carries with it longterm benefit.”

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Flags ﬂy as Gleneagles prepares its welcome

How business is set to benefit Perthshire businesses, particularly, are expected to receive a fillip from hosting the Ryder Cup. The Perthshire Business Tourism Group – a consortium of hotels and attractions, such as Blair Castle, Crieff Hydro Hotel, Perth Concert Hall and Scone Palace – is working towards the growth of the region’s business tourism industry and is anticipating immediate and longer-lasting benefits from having the Ryder Cup on its doorstep. “With the world’s gaze focused firmly on the region, Perthshire Business Tourism Group is working to maximise opportunities for its members and also to raise the profile of the region as a business tourism destination,” says its chairman, Sam Morshead. “Accessibility as well as facilities will be emphasised in campaigns running during the Ryder Cup,” he adds. “Gleneagles was chosen as a venue for the 2014 event for golfing reasons but also for its location (90 per cent of people in Scotland live within 90 minutes of Perthshire), its excellent travel links and because of the plethora of venues and partners which can service the huge accommodation and hospitality demands that the event creates. “The legion of media, spectators, sponsors and guests – including business owners from Scotland, Europe and beyond – in attendance will witness first-hand all that Perthshire has to offer.

This includes natural assets, food and drink, activities and cultural and historical experiences, but also the breadth of strategic partners on hand in the event, meeting, conference, team-building and incentive travel market. “The likely scenario is that in the years to come we will see repeat visits to the area for business and pleasure.” There will also be a huge boon from the priceless exposure to a huge global Ryder Cup television audience. Against the backdrop of hosting the Ryder Cup, EventScotland and the Scottish Government have given over £10m in support to professional tournaments held in the country with the Scottish Open, Senior Open Championship and the Ladies’ Scottish Open among those to have beneﬁted. The positive effect will be enjoyed for decades, as these events have helped re-establish Scotland as a host of major golf tournaments beyond merely the Open. On a more modest level, numerous university bursaries have been awarded in courses in tourism and hospitality at the University of Stirling, Queen Margaret University and Perth College UHI. Clubgolf – the junior golf initiative that has seen 280,000 children introduced to the game since 2003 – will beneﬁt, too, receiving funding as a result of the 2014 Ryder Cup for years to come. £

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

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LANDSCAPES

PICTURES of PERFECTION PHOTOGRAPHS: COLIN NUTT

THE BEAUTY OF SCOTLAND IS SECOND TO NONE – AND A TRIUMPHANT HUSBAND-AND-WIFE PUBLISHING VENTURE IS A GLORIOUS TRIBUTE TO ITS VARIETY. EITHNE NUTT, OF NESS PUBLISHING, TELLS THE STORY

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Caribbean colours at the Wick of Gruiting, on Fetlar, the ‘Garden of Shetland’. Unst can just be seen on the horizon

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LANDSCAPES

“Our hope is that the books will help people see Scotland for the wonderful country that it is”

At Helmsdale, Sutherland, The Emigrants shows a family being forced from their home. The woman, cradling their infant, steals a last backwards glance. The sky, stormy and ﬁery, seems to empathise with the family’s plight

s I write this, it is exactly seven years since my husband Colin and I said a fond farewell to our Cotswold cottage, squeezed ourselves and our cat into the car along with all the bits that hadn’t made it on to the removal van and headed up the road to Inverness on a beautiful April day. At last we were “coming home” to Scotland. I had left it 35 years earlier to work in Oxford and, although Colin was not born here, he was also coming home in a sense, as his love for Scotland goes right back to his teenage years when he visited for the first time and was completely smitten. We have been in publishing for 30 years. Colin became self-employed in the late • SPRING/SUMMER 2014

1990s when he published a series of local interest books, including some for English Heritage and Historic Scotland. So the idea of starting a series of Scottish photographic books was a pretty natural progression. Many of our Scottish customers seemed to like the idea of a book specific to their own particular region. Armed with our new digital cameras, we began. Colin did the big mountain climbs and long walks and covered an awful lot of countryside, finding places off the beaten track, ancient monuments, waterfalls, clearance villages, forests and lochs. I joined him on some of the less demanding treks and, in the gaps, we looked for a house

At Symbister, on Whalsay, Shetland, the building on the left is a survivor from the days of the Hanseatic League. The composition takes in centuries of seafaring, with huge modern trawlers in the background

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An archetypal Scottish scene at Loch Assynt, Sutherland, with the trademark Scots pines on the islet

Top: When the light is bright, the colours are right. Add the modern bridge, at Bonar Bridge, Sutherland, contrasting with the traditional village, and the picture works. Above: at Mousa Broch, Shetland, wildlife and history combine, making the cormorant appear as a guide: ‘Welcome to my broch!’

where we could live and also run the business. In January 2008 we moved to Elgin. Then, in April, the first four books in the series arrived – 12,000 copies in total. So we got cracking on the other part of the job, selling and distributing the books. As a two-person team, we get to do everything. I wasn’t much involved with the business at the start, but soon became full-time. Colin has had to extend his travels to cover the country so I do most of the administration, speak to customers and deal with orders – and sometimes have the odd idea or two. Each year we have produced a number of new books plus revised and expanded AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

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LANDSCAPES

A few minutes before this, Suilven had started to create cloud, making it look like a mountainous steam engine. Now the cloud swathes its upper reaches, all reﬂected in the loch. The boat on the shore provides the ﬁnishing touch

Lovely modern stained glass at Dornoch Cathedral: it gives an impression of being etched, as well as stained in those delicate colours

editions. Seven years on, we have 29 books in the series that has become Picturing Scotland and that now covers the whole of Scotland. But we aren’t stopping there and intend to continue growing the series. As the number of books going to press has increased over the years, preparation time has become increasingly hard work and some dreadful summers have made photography really tricky or downright impossible. Highs and lows come in all sorts of ways but, for photographers, they usually involve weather. But the main reason for our books, and our greatest hope, is that they will help people see Scotland for the wonderful

• SPRING/SUMMER 2014

country that it is, in its completeness – not just the well-known and well-trodden areas, but places less well-known and visited. Each picture in our books has a story to tell and through the photography, book introduction and captions, we try to bring that view to life for the reader. There is a saying that a picture paints a thousand words and, while I believe that’s true, there is also a “back story” to each one; one which involved the journey to that place, the miles walked, the road travelled, the kind of day it was, sunny, windy, rainy or stormy, the scent on the air, the sound of birdsong or the bark of a deer. Pictures can serve as reminders of moments in time – and not just for the

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At St Ninian’s Beach, on a May evening, Shetland was masquerading as the South Seas. With the camera set up on a tripod and a few trial shots taken, the penny dropped that to make the picture ‘right’ it would be necessary to catch the waves breaking simultaneously on each side. Half an hour later it happened

And there’s more The latest three volumes in the Picturing Scotland series cover Lanarkshire, Orkney and Shetland. www.nesspublishing.co.uk Left: A day of chilly wind and showers at Badbea, Caithness, gave a feel of how hard life must have been like for crofters here. Below left: Ben Loyal provides a great vantage point from which to enjoy the Sutherland landscape

photographer. For one man from Northern Ireland who had travelled the length and breadth of Scotland during his working life, our books served as that kind of reminder – so much so that he bought the entire series as, for him, every picture was a precious memory. Over this last year, in particular, we have received a great deal of encouragement from people who have bought books in the series and have thoroughly enjoyed them. It is the unexpected letters and phone calls of appreciation that mean such a lot to us and encourage us to carry on when sometimes we are so busy that we don’t know what to do next.  AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

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ROOM REPORT

HOME from HOME WHAT NEIL BRAIDWOOD NEEDED ON A BUSY WEEKEND WORK TRIP WAS SPACE, COMFORT AND CONVENIENCE. HE WAS DELIGHTED TO FIND ALL THAT AND MORE AT SKENE HOUSE

EVER FELT like your hotel room was just a bit cramped and impersonal? When travelling on business, especially for long periods, it’s great to have a space that feels like a home from home. Charles Skene, of Aberdeen, thought the same thing, and in 1979 created a serviced apartment concept in response to the growing number of business travellers to the city during the oil boom years. Now with three locations across the Granite City, and with around 200 rooms and suites, Skene House offers comfortable, spacious living when travelling for business or pleasure. We stayed in the Whitehall complex, which consists of an

• SPRING/SUMMER 2014

entire street of Victorian tenement ﬂats, renovated and ﬁnished to high standards. There is a 24-hour reception on the street corner in a former shop, which includes a lounge, dining room and honour bar. There’s a secure car park to the rear, and even tidy gardens for every block of apartments.

Early My colleague, Don, and I were on a business trip for a couple of days, so the idea of staying in a ﬂat like this appealed, as we could relax together, but still have our own rooms. Better still, it’s only a ﬁve-minute walk to bustling Union Street, with its bars, restaurants and shops. We checked in and were given a

standard hotel-style plastic key card which would operate the external door and the door to the flat. Once inside, we kicked off our shoes and explored. There was a double room and a twin room, with everything you’d expect from a decent hotel, but the rooms are so much bigger. There’s a fully appointed kitchen, so you can cook and eat when you want, and when we announced that we were leaving too early to enjoy breakfast the next day, a member of staff brought cereal, bread, juice and fruit to the flat so we wouldn’t miss out. There was a welcome pack in the apartment, though it didn’t seem to be aimed at us – a copy of Cosmo, fluffy dressing gown and slippers, along with toiletries, was

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In the city WORTH A VISIT THE GRILL www.thegrillaberdeen.co.uk For a taste of traditional Aberdeen, this art deco bar (once a restaurant), has a large, and largely male, clientele, although that could be because the footie was on when we visited. Be prepared to stand and chat. UNDER THE HAMMER

obviously meant for the fairer sex – so I wonder what a welcome pack for us might have looked like?

Delicious There’s free broadband and a TV, but that’s about it on the entertainment front. Best to go into Aberdeen for that. We stopped off at reception and the honour bar, where you help yourselves (the ﬁrst drink is complimentary, all others you pay for). We chose

“There’s a fully appointed kitchen, so you can cook and eat when you want” from a variety of chilled beers, opting for Dark Island, from Orkney, and sat back with some peanuts. The large lounge area only had a couple of guests, and no music, so we ﬁnished our drinks and wandered into the centre of town for a meal. Aberdeen is a thriving city with a

prosperous population and plenty of students in the mix too, so there’s a lot on offer, from large chain pubs and restaurants to smaller traditional establishments. We managed to venture into quite a few – see our recommendations in the panel on the right. On our last day, we were able to enjoy the buffet breakfast at the reception area. All the usual items were on offer, including delicious fresh pastries along with wafﬂes and cupcakes. You can choose a traditional fry-up from the a la carte menu, too, and pay a supplement. We had a busy programme for the weekend, and it was a great advantage to have such a comfortable and relaxing place to stay. With plenty of space to spread out, our Skene apartment really felt like a home from home. £ l Skene House Whitehall, 2 Whitehall Place, Aberdeen AB25 2NX. 01224 646600. www.skene-house.co.uk

11 North Silver Street, AB10 1RJ Tel: 01224 640253 This basement bar is beneath an auction house, and there is a civilised, bohemian crowd here. The customers create a relaxing atmosphere where you can enjoy good conversation. RUSTICO www.rustico-restaurant.co.uk This authentic Sicilian restaurant is a class act. Bypass Pizza Express on the main street, and seek out delicious linguine marinara or ovenroasted seabass. Helpful, friendly staff and a buzzing atmosphere with glorious images of Italy on the walls. THE LEMON TREE www.aberdeenperforming arts.com Sadly we never saw the inside, as we arrived just too late, but this long established alternative arts centre puts on live music, plays and comedy. There’s a lively bar serving Brewdog beverages (apparently).

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Essentials WHETHER YOU’RE A BUSINESS TRAVELLER OR A TOURIST, VISITING FAMILY OR GOING TO A MEETING, OUR HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS AIRPORTS GUIDE WILL POINT YOU TO THE BEST FOOD, ACCOMMODATION AND TRANSPORT LINKS

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ESSENTIALS

Barra

FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Call Barra Car Hire, 01871 890313, or MacMillan Self Drive, 01871 890366 before you arrive. Taxi: Book with Barra Island Taxis, 01871 810012, or J Campbell, 01871 810216. Bus: Runs between the airport and Castlebay. Details from R MacMillan, 01871 890366; H MacNeil, 01871 810262; cne-siar.gov.uk.

SPOTLIGHT Barcelona Airport

In numbers

Barcelona Airport is easily reached from Inverness via London Gatwick. See www.easyjet.com or www.britishairways.com. Find out more about the airport’s facilities on www.bit.ly/invbarc

FROM THE AIRPORT

10 1918 12 61 35 th

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Car hire: www.avis.co.uk 0844 544 6007 www.enterprise.co.uk 01275 474400 www.europcar.com 010275 474623 www.hertz.co.uk 0843 309 3011 www.sixt.co.uk 0844 248 6620 Taxi:

No need to book – plenty of cabs await outside the terminal.

Bus:

Several operators link the airport and city centre, buses leaving every 5-10 minutes and taking about 35 minutes to Plaza Catalunya.

Train:

Services to the city centre run between about 5.40 and 23.30 and take just under half an hour.

NIGHTCAP Lizarran is a tapas bar with tables outside.

AIRPORT OPENED IN MUNICIPALITY OF EL PRAT

DISTANCE TO CENTRE OF BARCELONA

SHOPS IN AIRPORT

BON APPETIT Portagaig is a bright restaurant run by a Michelin-starred chef – but it can turn out a swift and tasty snack, too, if that’s all you want.

PILLOW TALK Barcelona Airport Hotel has a free shuttle link with the terminal, and also with the city centre – plus there’s a pool. www.barcelonairporthotel.com

MILLION PASSENGERS IN 2013

The CASTLEBAY HOTEL uses the best of Barra produce. Call 01871 810223 or see castlebayhotel.com.

NIGHTCAP The HEATHBANK BAR is in a former church whose thick walls enclose a bright bar with ﬁne views. Northbay, 01871 890266, barrahotel.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK Britain’s most westerly hotel, the ISLE OF BARRA BEACH HOTEL, looks over the sands of Tangasdale Beach, and makes the most of the island’s ﬁne lamb and ﬁsh. 01871 810383, isleofbarrahotel.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST Once you’ve landed, you’ve already seen the most famous sight – the beach landing strip. KISIMUL CASTLE is seat of the Clan MacNeil, and don’t miss the deserted village of BALNABODACH. The island is ideal for walking, cycling and wildlife watching.

WHAT’S ON BARRATHON, on 28 June, is a half-marathon and fun run that attracts entrants from far and wide. It’s followed by a ceilidh.

Benbecula FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Try Ask Car Hire, 01870 602818; Autotec, 01878 710266; or Laing Motors, 01878 700267.Taxi: Book from Benbecula Taxis, 01870

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GREAT GLEN Spectacular scenery, excellent food and plenty of exercise makes the perfect Highland journey

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highlands & islands airports

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602464, or MacVicar’s, 01870 603197. Bus: A regular service takes you to points all over Benbecula, North Uist and South Uist. For details see cnesiar.gov.uk/travel.

BON APPETIT STEPPING STONES is popular for its delicious fare such as brochette of king scallops. Balivanich, 01870 603377.

NIGHTCAP Good selections of ales, wines and whiskies can be found at DARK ISLAND HOTEL, Liniclate, 01870 603030; ISLE OF BENBECULA HOUSE HOTEL, Creagorry, 01870 602024, isleshotelgroup.co.uk.

BON APPETIT

century POLOCHAR INN makes great use of local ingredients, and is in a great setting with an ancient standing stone. 01878 700215, polocharinn.com

DALNASPIDAL is a great place to stay and serves a mix of Scottish and South African dishes. Dalnaspidal Guest House, Tangy, 01586 820466, dalnaspidal-guesthouse.com.

BE A TOURIST

NIGHTCAP

The scenery, ﬂora and fauna are spectacular so bring boots, camera and binoculars. The white beaches, lochs and hills calm the most troubled souls. Causeways link the island to North and South Uist.

BURNSIDE BAR is friendly and traditional. Burnside Square, 01586 552306.

PILLOW TALK CRAIGARD HOUSE, an Italianate-style building, is a classy place to stay. Low Askomil, 01586 554242, craigard-house.co.uk.

WHAT’S ON The island’s HALFMARATHON takes place on 7 June, and runners qualify for an unusual bonus – a free swim in Lionacleit pool. So don’t forget your cozzie.

BE A TOURIST The Mull of Kintyre gave its name to the UK’s biggestselling single. The record, featuring Campbeltown Pipe Band, was Paul McCartney’s love song to the area, which has many attractions. Walkers will like the KINTYRE WAY, where the view changes with every step, taking in Ireland, Islay, Jura and Arran. The glorious CAMPBELTOWN PICTURE HOUSE is the oldest cinema in Scotland. MACHRIHANISH golf course is one of the country’s ﬁnest.

PILLOW TALK

Campbeltown FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Call Burbank Garage, 01586 544480, or Campbeltown Motor Co, 01586 552030. Taxi: Call Fona Taxi, 01586 554001; Roy’s Taxis, 01586 554625; Tavi’s Taxis, 01586 551122; Kintyre Connect Minibus Service, 07825 091502 or 07984 634824. Bus: Book ring-and-ride bus from airport by calling West Coast Motors, 01586 552319.

Machrihanish Dunes Beach

WHAT’S ON

PHOTOGRAPH: AIDAN BRADLEY

LIONACLEIT GUESTHOUSE is comfortable and set on a croft, with seven rooms for B&B guests and two self-catering cottages. 01870 602176, lionacleit-guesthouse.com. At KYLES FLODDA, a modern B&B overlooking North Uist, you’re well placed to explore nature. See kylesﬂodda.com. LANGASS LODGE at Loch Eport, North Uist, offers comfort and great cooking, using local game and seafood with garden herbs. 01876 580285, langasslodge.co.uk. On South Uist, the 18th-

The CAMPBELTOWN MALTS FESTIVAL runs from 21-23 May, with an open day at Springbank Distillery on 22. The KINTYRE SONGWRITERS FESTIVAL, 23-25 May, is always a joy, with the action centring on Whisky Macs and the White Hart Hotel, this year’s headliners being Papa Alpha 28, Pete MacLeod and Scott Hutchison. Gigha gets in on the act with the GIGHA MUSIC FESTIVAL from 27-29 June. Long-distance runners converge on Kintyre for the KINTYRE WAY ULTRA AND RELAY on 10 May, with a choice of runs, none of them short. For something rather less gruelling, one of the country’s most scenic halfmarathons, MOKRUN, is contested over the sands and country lanes of the Mull of Kintyre on 25 May.

Dundee FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Avis, Arnold Clark, Alamo and Europcar all serve the airport – call 01382 662200. Taxi: Booking in advance is advised. Call Tele Taxis on 01382 669333 or 50 50 50 Taxis on 01382 505050. Train: For destinations and times call 08457 484950 or see nationalrail.co.uk.

BON APPETIT The SHIP INN at Broughty Ferry has great ﬁsh and meat dishes, plus ﬁne views. Fisher Street, 01382 779176. The excellent BON APPETIT brasserie offers tempting dishes such as grilled red mullet with fennel and orange dressing and beetroot puree. Exchange Street, 01382 809000, bonappetit-dundee.com.

NIGHTCAP The SPEEDWELL TAVERN, aka Mennie’s, has a ﬁne Edwardian interior and many whiskies. Perth Road, 01382 667783, speedwell-bar.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK Looking over the waterfront, the APEX is a modern comfort zone with a spa. West Victoria Dock Road, 0845 365 0000, apexhotels.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST Whether you want to shop, enjoy art, or go sightseeing, this city is for you. The OVERGATE SHOPPING CENTRE is a great place to browse, DCA (Dundee Contemporary Arts) has an ever-changing programme of exhibitions and a great café. For maritime history visit Captain Scott’s ship, the RRS DISCOVERY, or HM FRIGATE UNICORN, the oldest Britishbuilt ship still aﬂoat. The SENSATION science centre, with its 60 hands-on exhibits, will excite youngsters’ curiosity.

WHAT’S ON The Caird Hall has two contrasting guests coming up – explorer SIR RANULPH FIENNES on 4 June and comic JIMMY CARR two nights later. The venue hosts Scottish

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ESSENTIALS

Dance Theatre’s performance of HUMAN SCALE on 4 and 5 July. From 20 June to the end of August the McManus has an “immersive exhibition” called THE WHITE WHALE, by sculptor Nick Evans. BIRDSONG, a play based on the First World War novel by Sebastian Faulks, comes to the Rep from 9-14 June, and on 19 June the Rep’s youth theatre groups showcase their talents. THE HAZEY JANES play Fat Sam’s on 7 June. PERTH FESTIVAL, 22 May-1 June, is always packed with delights, and this year’s bill features Jools Holland, Alison Moyet, Scouting for Girls, star Russian conductor at the helm of the Royal Liverpool Philharmonic Orchestra and English Touring Opera performing The Magic Flute.

Inverness FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Options include Avis, 0844 544 6017, Europcar, 01667 460000, and Arnold Clark, 0845 607 4500. Taxi: Book with Inverness Taxis on 01463 222900. See inverness-taxis.co.uk. Bus: Airport bus goes to the city centre for £3.20 single. Stagecoachbus.com or 01463 239292 for other routes. Train: Nearest stations are Inverness and Nairn. See scotrail.com for times.

BON APPETIT The MUSTARD SEED is rightly busy. 16 Fraser Street, 01463 220220, themustardseed restaurant.co.uk. CAFE1, despite its name, is very much a restaurant, emphasing seafood and quality cuts. 75 Castle Street, 01463 226200, cafe1.net. RIVER HOUSE RESTAURANT, a bright restaurant overlooking the Ness, impresses by using resources of the region. 1 Greig Street, 01463 222033, riverhouseinverness.co.uk.

THE KITCHEN, also with river views, is deservedly popular. 15 Huntly Street, 01463 259119, kitchenrestaurant.co.uk.

NIGHTCAP NUMBER 27 is a bright bar with arcane beers served by friendly staff. 27 Castle Street, 01463 241999, number27inverness. co.uk. Folkies, ceilidh bands and comedy can all be enjoyed at HOOTANANNY’S, 61 Church Street, 01463 233651, hootananny.co.uk. By day the FOUNDRY is a relaxing café. After 8pm it does a brisk trade in beers, wines and cocktails. 28 Church Street, 01463 713005, foundryinverness.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK Luxury is the order of the day at ROCPOOL RESERVE, but it’s not beyond affordable. Culduthel Road, 01463 240089, rocpool.com. The KINGSMILLS HOTEL, set elegantly in four acres of gardens, offers family rooms and two-bedroom, twobathroom apartments. Look out for a thank you letter from Robert Burns, who stayed here in 1787. The leisure club and spa will revitalise you. Culcabock Road, 01463 237166, kingsmillshotel.com. The ROYAL HIGHLAND HOTEL has been much-loved for over a century and a half. In the middle of town, it’s Victorian splendour at its best. Station Square, 01463 251451, royalhighlandhotel.co.uk. TRAFFORD BANK GUEST HOUSE, once home to a bishop, is a delightful place to stay. Each bedroom has a mix of antique and modern furniture. Fairﬁeld Road, 01463 241414, traffordbankguesthouse.co.uk. The luxurious CASTLE STUART, close to Inverness Airport, is a 17th-century tower in its own private grounds. 01463 790745, castlestuart.com.

shop. The hinterland is studded with castles and distilleries, many of which offer whisky tastings. The FLORAL HALL is an oasis of peace. Take a boat trip on LOCH NESS to search for the monster, visit nearby BRODIE CASTLE or CAWDOR CASTLE, wander on CULLODEN MOOR, where the Jacobite Rising was crushed in 1746. Equally atmospheric are the prehistoric CLAVA CAIRNS, a group of burial mounds in unspoilt woodland.

WHAT’S ON If tribute bands are your thing, head to the Ironworks for DOORS ALIVE on 10 May or WHOLE LOTTA LED on 21 June. IAN ANDERSON, of Jethro Tull – the man himself, not a tribute – plays Eden Court on 21 May, and the same venue has gags galore from TOMMY TIERNAN on 22 May and JASON BYRNE the following night, both as part of the Happyness Comedy Festival. The NORTHERN ROOTS FESTIVAL starts on 30 May, and the STARS OF STRICTLY COME DANCING show off their moves on 2 June. ULLAPOOL BOOK FESTIVAL, 9-11 May, has a strong line-up, with Jackie Kay, Matthew Zajac, AL Kennedy and many more.

Islay FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Booking in advance is advisable, with Islay Car Hire on 01496 810544 or D and N Mackenzie on 01496 302324. Taxi: Call Carol MacDonald Taxis on 01496 302155, Fiona’s Taxis on 01496 301622, Lamont’s Taxis on 01496 810449 or Rhinns Taxis on 01496 850170. Bus: Most places on the island are linked by B Mundell’s bus. Call 01496 840274 or ask at information desk.

BE A TOURIST

BON APPETIT

This wonderful city offers delightful RIVERSIDE WALKS and is an enjoyable place to

The HARBOUR INN serves beef, lamb and seafood with style, in a scenic setting.

Bowmore, 01496 810330, harbour-inn.com.

NIGHTCAP There’s a superb choice of malt whiskies at the LOCHSIDE HOTEL. Bowmore, 01496 810244, lochsidehotel.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK Charming rooms, great food and a beautiful location make the PORT CHARLOTTE HOTEL a great place to stay. 01496 850360, portcharlottehotel.co.uk. Friendly, historic, handy for all parts of the island, the BRIDGEND HOTEL is committed to local produce. 01496 810212, info@bridgend-hotel.com. AN TAIGH-OSDA is a cool hotel in Bruichladdich, overlooking Loch Indaal. 01496 850587, antaighosda.co.uk. KILMENY COUNTRY HOUSE is a small luxury hotel near Port Askaig. Occupying a great vantage point, it is set within woods and farmland. There are four colour-themed bedrooms and a suite. 01496 840668, kilmeny.co.uk. COILLABUS ECO DWELLINGS are two luxury cottages on the wild Oa peninsula. Each sleeps four and has a hand-made hot tub. Built with reclaimed wood and stone, the cottages have turfed roofs. 01852 200565, coillabus.com. The ISLAY HOTEL, in Port Ellen, has been rebuilt, and its pristine white walls shine out over the harbour, while the wood inside is warm and welcoming. Call 01496 300109. The OLD EXCISE HOUSE at Laphroaig is comfy, historic, welcoming – and walking distance from three distilleries. 01496 302567, theoldexcisehouse.com. The ISLAND BEAR, on the main street in Bowmore, is a recent, very tasteful addition to the island’s B&B options. 01496 810375, islandbear.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST Islay is much less crowded and commercial than, say, Skye or Mull, yet its attractions are just as powerful. Not least is its

43-49 essentials_43-49 essentials 5/1/14 11:01 AM Page 47

chamber. The RING OF BRODGAR is up there with Callanish and Stonehenge in the standing stones league table, and the BROUGH OF BIRSAY, a tidal island rich in Norse ruins and birdlife, is an unforgettable place. The Neolithic TOMB OF THE EAGLES on South Ronaldsay is also worth a visit – you slide in on a large homemade skateboard. Just as intriguing is the ornate ITALIAN CHAPEL, painted by Italian prisoners during the Second World War. ORKNEY BREWERY, where beers such as Dark Island and Skull Splitter are made for a growing tribe of fans, is well worth a visit, with tours of the brewhouse and fermentation rooms and a nice café.

WHAT’S ON

Port Charlotte, Islay

status as a stronghold of whisky making, and all eight DISTILLERIES are open to visitors at various times. The island is a superb destination for walkers, anglers and birdwatchers. Autumn is the time to see geese by their tens of thousands – barnacle, brent, white-fronted, greylag and others. For a historical day out, it’s hard to beat FINLAGGAN, the ancient seat of the Lords of the Isles, and though the buildings are ruins, the site, beside a beautiful loch, is atmospheric. The ISLAY WOOLLEN MILL, at Bridgend, made the Highland tweed gear sported by Mel Gibson and Liam Neeson in their historical epics. Its shop is well worth a visit. 01496 810563, islaywoollenmill.co.uk. The MUSEUM OF ISLAY LIFE, at Port Charlotte, has exhibits dating from 8000BC to the 20th century and countless books and pictures. 01496 850358, islaymuseum.org.

WHAT’S ON RSPB wardens are leading a series of WALKS at the Oa peninsula and Loch Gruinart throughout the spring and summer. The BEACH RUGBY tournament, on 14-15 June, at

Kilnaughton Bay, Port Ellen, will be as hard-fought as ever. Gaelic culture and more will be celebrated at the ISLAY FESTIVAL, 23-31 May, with headliners including Dougie Maclean. The CANTILENA FESTIVAL, at various venues from 6-11 July, features classical music at its best, by many of the greatest composers.

Kirkwall FROM THE AIRPORT

Car hire: Call WR Tullock on 01856 875500. Taxi: Call Bob’s Taxis on 01856 876543, Craigies Taxis on 01856 878787, George’s Taxis on 07541 034830 or Stromness Taxis on 01856 852852. Bus: The Jet bus operated by Stagecoach in Orkney runs all day – for times call the ﬁrm on 01856 870555 or the airport information desk on 01856 886210. See stagecoachbus. com for other Orkney routes.

BON APPETIT

LUCANO is named after Lucania, southern Italy, where the owner hails from, and this bright restaurant sticks to its roots, with the emphasis on

good, fresh ingredients. 31-33 Victoria Street, Kirkwall, 01856 875687, lucanokirkwall.com.

NIGHTCAP

HELGI’S is Viking-inspired and very tasteful, with its slate ﬂoor, wood panelling and cosy atmosphere. A great place to enjoy real ale, good coffee and home baking. Albert Street, 01856 879293.

PILLOW TALK

At historic WOODWICK HOUSE if you want a walk in the woods or on the beach, both are yards away. Evie, 01856 751330, woodwickhouse.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST Kirkwall is enjoyable to wander around, with a busy harbour, narrow streets, lively pubs and the stately ST MAGNUS CATHEDRAL. Further aﬁeld, renowned archaeological wonders vie for attention. Perhaps the best of all is the prehistoric village of SKARA BRAE, with its perfectly intact shelves and doorways. Also stunning is the chambered tomb of MAESHOWE, with its passage carefully aligned so that the winter solstice sun shines through it to illuminate the

ORKNEY NATURE FESTIVAL, 10-18 May, has a full programme of walks, talks, boat trips and more, offering a great way to experience some of the most interesting flora and fauna in the UK. The Pier Arts Centre, Stromness, has a series of ANIMATION WORKSHOPS for all ages on 11 May. The ORKNEY FOLK FESTIVAL, 22-25 May, has a huge bill of talent from the islands and much further afield – highlights include Saltfishforty, Shooglenifty and the Driftwood Cowboys. What better way to explore the island of Hoy than by entering the HOY HALF MARATHON on 15 June?

Stornoway FROM THE AIRPORT

Car hire: Carhire Hebrides has its ﬂeet based at the airport. Call 01851 706500 or see carhire-hebrides.co.uk. Taxi: Order from Castle Cabs, 01851 704636, before your arrival, pick one up at the terminal or call airport information, 01851 702256. Bus: Hourly service to town centre, Monday to Saturday. Visit cne-siar.gov.uk/travel.

BON APPETIT

At the elegant PARK

ESSENTIALS

RESTAURANT you might start with seafood ﬁlo baskets, moving on to Lewis lamb shank and spicy mint couscous. 30 James Street, 01851 702485, theparkguesthouse.co.uk. Booking is essential at DIGBY CHICK restaurant, which has two menus – one for early birds, and an à la carte from 7pm. Expect ultra-fresh ingredients, expertly prepared. 5 Bank Street, 01851 700026, digbychick.co.uk. AN LANNTAIR is a thriving arts centre with workshops, a cinema and gallery. The restaurant and bar overlooks the harbour, and serves food from 10am till late. Kenneth Street, 01851 703307, lanntair.com.

NIGHTCAP MCNEILLS is a cosy bar with live music. 11 Cromwell Street, 01851 703330. The STAR INN is small but has a good selection of spirits. 13 South Beach, 01851 702289.

PILLOW TALK

Brodie Castle, Inverness

BROAD BAY HOUSE, a fine guesthouse, is at Back, on the coast seven miles north of Stornoway. Its spacious rooms, furnished in solid oak, have wi-fi and iPod docks. You’ll find a tray with wine, biscuits, fruit, water and a stamped postcard to send home. 01851 820990, broadbayhouse.co.uk. The three-star CABARFEIDH HOTEL, about a mile from the town centre, scores highly for its cuisine and service. It also has good facilities for business guests. Manor Park, Perceval Road South, 01851 702604, cabarfeidh-hotel.co.uk. HOLM VIEW GUEST HOUSE is minutes from the airport. This four-star, five-bedroom house has splendid sea views and a host who goes out of his way to ensure that guests enjoy their stay. 18 Rathad na Bhraighe, 01851 706826. BRAIGHE HOUSE, overlooking the sea just a few minutes from the airport, has five immaculate bedrooms and the breakfast menu has the Braighe House

PHOTOGRAPH: SCOTTISH VIEWPOINT

43-49 essentials_43-49 essentials 4/30/14 4:02 PM Page 48

preserved Pictish tower in the country. WILDLIFE is a Shetland strong suit, with Arctic skuas, great northern divers and killer whales among species to spot. On Yell the SHETLAND GALLERY aims to showcase the islands’ best contemporary art.

WHAT’S ON BARBARA DICKSON and RAB NOAKES play Mareel on 8 June, with EDDI READER coming on 15 July. In between, a more raucous night is on the cards when indy heroes THE VIEW come calling on 21 June. The Callanish Standing Stones at the entrance to Loch Cean Thulabhig

Tiree Stack – Stornoway black pudding topped with bacon, potato scone and a free-range poached egg. 20 Braighe Road, 01851 705287, braighehouse.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST Stornoway is a great place to relax and explore. Spend time at the harbour, watching the ﬁshermen unload their catches – which you could be eating in a couple of hours. Be sure to see CALLANISH, one of Britain’s most magical places. No-one knows the exact purpose of these ancient standing stones, but their power is undeniable. Nearby, DUN CARLOWAY BROCH is a magniﬁcent Iron Age tower you can explore.

WHAT’S ON Runners converge on Stornoway on 24 May for the town’s HALF-MARATHON, with much of the course through the wooded grounds of Lews Castle. The HARRIS ARTS FESTIVAL, 28 June-5 July, is always well worth a look. If, after all that culture, you want to get physical, then the ISLE OF HARRIS HALF MARATHON is on 5 July.

Sumburgh FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Call Star Rent-a-Car on 01950 460444.

be a

Taxi: Call Boddam Cabs on 01950 460111, J & I Taxis on 01950 422207 or Allied Taxis on 01595 690069. Bus: A regular airport bus takes you to Lerwick in about 40 minutes. Call John Leask & Sons on 01565 693162.

BON APPETIT BUSTA HOUSE deserves its reputation among foodies. Busta, 01806 522506, bustahouse.com. The SCALLOWAY HOTEL twins stunning waterfront views with a high-quality menu that makes a feature of Shetland’s excellent seafood. Main Street, Scalloway, 01595 880444, scallowayhotel.co.uk.

NIGHTCAP THE LOUNGE is a busy pub in Lerwick, good for live music. Mounthooly Street, 01595 692231

PILLOW TALK The 32-room SUMBURGH HOTEL, very handy for the airport, is friendly and comfortable. 01950 460394, sumburghhotel.com.

BE A TOURIST Beside the airport is one of Shetland’s principal sights – JARLSHOF. It contains remains from 2,500BC up to the 17th century, making it a fascinating place to visit. MOUSA BROCH is the best

FROM THE AIRPORT Car and bike hire: Call MacLennans, 01879 220555. Taxi: Order from John Kennedy Taxis, 01879 220419. Bus: The on-demand dial-abus is on 01879 220419.

BON APPETIT CEABAR is a guest house with a very popular restaurant commanding great sunset views. Booking advised. 01879 220684, ceabar.com.

NIGHTCAP The TIREE LODGE HOTEL is a popular, often lively pub at Gott Bay, 01879 220368.

PILLOW TALK ROCKVALE GUEST HOUSE is a friendly, comfortable place to stay, with a lovely, bright lounge. 01879 220675, rockvaletiree.co.uk. The charming SCARINISH HOTEL offers simple, beautifully cooked food. After eating, relax in the Lean To bar. 01879 220308, tireescarinishhotel.com. KIRKAPOL HOUSE is a converted Victorian church beside the sea. The hosts are happy to collect guests from the airport and will supply packed lunches. 01879 220729, kirkapoltiree.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST AN IODHLANN is the island’s historical centre and the place

LAIRD For more information call 0844 493 2108

43-49 essentials_43-49 essentials 4/30/14 4:02 PM Page 49

to shed light on your Tiree ancestry. See aniodhlann.co.uk or call 01879 220793. The RINGING STONE is a boulder, probably dumped by a glacier, which makes a metallic clang when hit with another stone. DUN MOR, at Vaul, is a broch, or place of refuge, built in about 60AD. Tiree is one of the UK’s windiest places, and also among the sunniest and most beautiful, with white, sandy beaches. See isleoftiree.com.

WHAT’S ON TIREE MUSIC FESTIVAL, which regular goers have nothing but praise for, is not until 18-20 July, but be warned – tickets always sell out. This year’s bill was still being ﬁnalised as we went to press.

Wick John O’Groats FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Book with Dunnetts Garage on 01955 602103, Richards Garage on 01955 604123, Europcar on 01667 462052 or National Car Hire on 01463 238084. Taxi: Call Jimmy’s Taxis on 01955 602727, Johnnie’s Taxis on 01955 605041 or Millers Taxis on 01955 606464. Bus: Stagecoach 82 and 182 buses stop at the airport, providing connections to Wick and Thurso. The 25X links Wick with Inverness. For times see stagecoachbus.com or call 01463 239292. Train: Wick station is 1.5 miles from the airport, with trains to Thurso and Inverness and stations between.

BON APPETIT The CAPTAIN’S GALLEY, a superb seafood restaurant serves local produce in converted ice house and bothy. The Harbour, Scrabster, 01847 894999, captainsgalley.co.uk.

609920. The PORTLAND ARMS is an atmospheric and cosy former coaching inn in Lybster. 01593 721721, portlandarms.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK The QUAYSIDE B&B is friendly and every room has a harbour view. Harbour Quay, 01955 603229, quaysidewick.fsnet.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST WICK HERITAGE MUSEUM has won awards for its displays on the town’s history as a ﬁshing port and centre for glass-making and distilling. CAITHNESS HORIZONS, in Thurso, is a must-visit museum, with much to see and regular events. TIMESPAN, in Helmsdale, is a superb attraction loved by genealogists and casual visitors alike. JOHN O’ GROATS is the most northerly settlement in mainland Britain and is being transformed. A few miles west is the CASTLE OF MEY, with its ornate turrets and walled garden. The FLOW COUNTRY, Europe’s biggest blanket bog, is a striking landscapes, with a bleak appearance but a wealth of birdlife. Ruined CASTLE SINCLAIR GIRNIGOE is a ﬁne sight.

WHAT’S ON The FIFIE RESTORATION PROJECT, running until July at Timespan, Helmsdale, is an ambitious attempt to bring back a rare 19th-century ﬁshing boat to its original glory. From 14-18 May, Caithness Horizons in Thurso hosts PICTISH CAITHNESS, a programme of talks, storytelling, drama and art workshops.

NIGHTCAP The ALEXANDER BAIN, named after the Wick man who invented the electric clock, is a bright, roomy bar, serving a good choice of ales and bar meals. 01955

HEATHROW CONNECTIONS

Need to get to Heathrow? It’s easy via airports reached from Inverness and Dundee. Times and prices are a guide.

 From Luton A pre-booked taxi from Prestige Airport Cars takes 50 minutes, and costs from £55. A National Express coach takes from 55 minutes and costs from £22.90.

 From Gatwick A pre-booked taxi from Prestige Airport Cars takes 45 minutes, from £45. A National Express coach takes 1 hour 5 minutes and costs from £25.

 From London Stansted An hourly National Express coach runs directly from London Stansted to Heathrow, taking 1 hour 20 minutes, and tickets can be bought at a ticket desk in the airport, at the bus station or on the coach. Fare from £26.80.

 From London City A pre-booked taxi from Riverside Cars takes 1 hour 15 minutes, from £50. To transfer to Heathrow via Docklands Light Railway (DLR) to Canning Town, Jubilee line tube to Green Park and Piccadilly line tube costs £5.30 and takes 1 hour 40 minutes. Or take the DLR to Canning Town, Jubilee line tube to Baker Street, Bakerloo line tube to Paddington (1 hour) then Heathrow Express, which leaves Paddington every 15 minutes and takes 15 minutes to reach Heathrow. This costs a total of £24.30.

Contact prestigeairportcars.co.uk / 03331 231818 riversidecarslondon.com / 020 7231 7766 nationalexpress.com / 08717 818181 For train and tube information see tﬂ.gov.uk

For ﬂight and booking information visit

hial.co.uk highlands & islands airports

Local access, global outlook

for a weekend or visit www.ntsholidays.com

50 my spring_50 My spring 5/1/14 11:03 AM Page 50

MY SPRING

PHOTOGRAPH: SCOTTISH HOCKEY

Linda Clement SCOTLAND’S HOCKEY CAPTAIN HAS EVEN MORE REASON THAN THE REST OF US TO LOOK FORWARD TO THE COMMONWEALTH GAMES

e’re now well into our four months of full-time training at the new national hockey centre on Glasgow Green. The facilities are brilliant, with two very good pitches and a permanent stand that can accommodate 500 supporters. We train ﬁve out of seven days, with Monday and Tuesday off. We might do a couple of hours on the pitch in the morning, break for lunch and then go to the gym and do some weights, then we might be back on the pitch in the afternoon, perhaps practising set pieces. We do some running sessions, but we’re already at a good level of ﬁtness, so we prioritise pitch-based work with stick and ball to keep it relevant. We also do video analysis. I remember, when I was made captain, thinking that’s been done for a reason, so I shouldn’t change too much in terms of how I operate, and just try to lead by example. I’m proud to captain the team, and I try to provide a link between the players and coaching staff. I’ve been to three Commonwealth Games and they stand out as highlights in my career, but to experience it in my home country would be the ultimate. I hope the Games will increase interest in hockey and more youngsters will be inspired to take it up. It’s a great game that can be played throughout the year. It’s a real physical challenge. You have to be fast and skilful, and you make really good friends through it. Those of us who don’t live in Glasgow have

• SPRING/SUMMER 2014

been staying at the Holiday Inn Express near the ground. It keeps us focused on the task at hand, but we go out to the cinema or out for a meal so we do have a life. On the two days we’re off we go home, which for me is Edinburgh. I was born at Fortrose, on the Black Isle, and lived there until I came to Edinburgh to go to university. I love that part of the world. It was a fantastic place to be brought up and I go back at least once in the summer and at Christmas to see my dad. The highest we’ve ever finished in the Commonwealth Games is fifth, and our aim is to do better than that. Breaking into the top four is going to be a really tough challenge but we’re willing to push for it. Competition for places is as strong as it’s ever been, so I’m taking nothing for granted. After it’s all over I’ll have a couple of weeks before going back to my job as a PE teacher. I’ve got no firm plans but I’ll hopefully get away for at least a few days. Obviously this spring is special, but this is always a good time of year for me. The days are getting longer and the evenings lighter. You have the whole summer ahead of you. £ The Scottish women’s hockey team play Commonwealth Games group matches against Malaysia (25 July) followed by Australia (27), Wales (28) and England (30).

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