Aurora winter 2014 2015

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AURORA

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WINTER 2014/15

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TREAT YOURSELF TO A WINTER BREAK

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Screen star

Boston’s best

My winter

REEL APPEAL Even Billy Connolly takes second billing to the stunning Wester Ross scenery

WINTER CHEERS This very welcoming US city has much more to offer than its famous TV comedy bar

EDDI READER The in-demand singer on her admiration for Robert Burns and her plans for a busy season

highlands & islands airports

“…MILES OF UNSPOILT COAST, JAGGED CLIFFS, SHELL BEACHES AND WHITE SAND. FROM UP HERE, THE END OF THE WORLD LOOKS PRETTY GOOD.” – John Sunyer, The Financial Times

For an unforgettable holiday in the North Highlands Famous for its position at the most north easterly point of Britain, John O’Groats is situated in a truly breathtaking location, boasting fantastic unspoilt scenery, dramatic landscapes and an array of wildlife, seals.

Visit Scotland’s premier snowsports destination!

The Inn at John O’Groats holds premium self-catering apartments and Natural Retreats also offer stunning

with good connections from both Edinburgh and

through some amazing coastal scenery.

Located in the heart of the Cairngorms National Park

Home to over 30km of pisted runs, CairnGorm Mountain boasts the best skiing in Scotland as well as phenomenal panoramic views from over 3,500ft. With 35 different runs there is something for every type of skier and boarder, including a great selection of freestyle areas. Everything you need for a perfect day of snowsports is located on-site, including equipment hire, lessons from The Ski School, delicious dishes at a choice of two restaurants and great shopping at our retail stores. Our runs are accessed via 11 different lifts, including the UK’s highest Funicular Railway, which takes you to a height of 1097 metres in just four minutes.

For the chance to win £200 worth of CairnGorm vouchers, visit cairngormmountain.org/giftvouchergiveaway cairngormmountain.org | +44 (0)1479 861261

Stroma and the Orkney Islands.

Stacks of Duncansby on our Natural Explorer boat, fantastic fresh Caithness dishes and idyllic holiday accommodation.

To book and for more information call our dedicated Concierge on 084532 28723 or email us on info@naturalretreats.com.

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3-5 Welcome and Contents_03-05 contents 05/11/2014 17:06 Page 3

CHECK IN

03

WELCOME

FÀILTE ...gu iris a’ gheamhraidh aurora, an irisleabhar

...to the winter issue of aurora, the magazine for all customers of

airson gach neach-ceannach aig Puirt-adhair na

Highlands and Islands Airports.

Gàidhealtachd agus nan Eilean. Tha sinn ag obair

We work hard to give you the

trang airson an t-seirbheis as fheàrr as urrainn

best possible service at our 11

dhuinn a thoirt dhuibh aig ar 11 puirt-adhair –

airports – at Barra, Benbecula,

suidhichte ann am Barraigh, Beinn nam Fadhla,

Campbeltown, Dundee,

Ceann Loch Chille Chiarain, Dùn Dè, Inbhir Nis,

Inverness, Islay, Kirkwall,

Ìle, Baile na h-Eaglais, Steòrnabhagh, Sumburgh,

Stornoway, Sumburgh, Tiree and

Tiriodh agus Inbhir Ùige Taigh Iain Ghròt. Tha gu leòr anns an iris seo a chòrdas ribh.

Wick John O’Groats.

Tha e nas fhasa na bha e riamh sgèith gu

In this issue you’ll find plenty

Lunnainn bho phuirt-adhair Inbhir Nis agus

to enjoy. It’s easier than ever to reach London from Inverness and Dundee

Dùn Dè, agus mar seo, tha sinn a’ toirt dhuibh iùil air dè

airports, so we present a great guide to what the

tha dol air adhart sa bhaile a’ gheamhraidh seo.

city has to offer this winter. Another fine city to visit is Boston, and it,

’S e baile grinn eile a th’ann am Boston ri thadhal agus ’s urrainn a-nis fhaighinn thuige gu math furasta bho Inbhir

too, can now be reached very conveniently

Nis taobh Bail'-Ath-Cliath. Mur an robh sibh a-riamh ann,

from Inverness via Dublin. If you’ve never

tha ar sgeulachd a’ toirt gu leòr adhbharan dhuibh ri a

been, our feature gives plenty of reasons to go.

dhol ann.

Closer to home, Gairloch in Wester Ross is a

Nas fhaisg air an taigh, ’s e àite brèagha a th’ann an

beautiful place seen in all its splendour in the

Geàrrloch ann an Taobh Siar Rois, agus chithear a

hit film What We Did On Our Holiday. Our

bòidhchead anns an fhilm What We Did On Our Holiday. ’S

article may tempt you to explore it for yourself.

dòcha gun gluais an artaigil sibh gus a dhol ann sibh fhèin.

We are committed to supporting the Gaelic

Tha sinn fo chùmhnant taic a thoirt don Ghàidhlig, agus

language, and our Gaelic feature in this issue

anns an iris seo, tha an artaigil Gàidhlig a’ coimhead air

looks at the growing popularity of adventure

rèiseadh cruadalach a tha a’ glacadh mac-meanmainn tòrr

racing, which is capturing the imagination of

dhaoine a tha a’ fuireach sa Ghàidhealtachd is na h-Eileanan

many who live in the Highlands and Islands as

agus cuideachd a’ tarraing a-steach grunn luchd-turais.

well as attracting visitors. Whichever airport you are using today, have a good journey and enjoy your magazine.

Ge be dè am port-adhar a’ tha sibh a’ cleachdadh andiugh, tha sinn an dòchas gum bi turas math agaibh agus gun còrd ar n-iris-leabhar ribh.

Inglis Lyon, Managing Director, Highlands & Islands Airports Limited

• WINTER 2014/15

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

3-5 Welcome and Contents_03-05 contents 05/11/2014 17:06 Page 4

CONTENTS

04

highlands & islands airports

24 Air travellers’ magazine Winter 2014/15 Volume 6 number 3

Managing editor • Neil Braidwood Editor • Don Currie Designers • Daniele Carotenuto, Sarah Slater

Advertising sales • Simon Fraser 01463 732223 x 240

0131 556 2220 aurora-mag.com FOR HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS AIRPORTS LTD Kirsteen Adams 01667 464212 kadams@hial.co.uk Aurora magazine (ISSN: 1759-9717) is published four times a year by CMYK Design. The magazine is free to airport users. Follow us on Twitter: @aurora_mag

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CMYK Design, 91 East London Street, Edinburgh EH7 4BQ. Tel: 0131 556 2220. Email: editor@aurora-mag.com Web: cmyk-design.co.uk © CMYK Design 2014 Please note that unsolicited manuscripts are not accepted. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without prior permission. Editorial material and opinions expressed in aurora do not reflect the views of Highlands & Islands Airports Ltd or the publisher. Highlands & Islands Airports Ltd and the publisher do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Products and services are subject to change without prior notice. Highlands & Islands Airports Ltd, Inverness Airport, Inverness IV2 7JB Printed in the UK by Pensord

The spectacular Boston skyline

• WINTER 2014/15

Worth it for the scenery – adventure racers in action

3-5 Welcome and Contents_03-05 contents 11/17/14 11:44 AM Page 5

WINTER CONTENTS

Our cover London is one of the fastestchanging cities in the world, with ever more eccentrically shaped towers springing up everywhere and dividing opinion on their merits. But for the cover of this issue, which includes a great guide to enjoying London this winter, we chose a universally popular building – Big Ben, seen here in all its warming, floodlit glory. Photograph: iStock

Regulars 06 News Catch up on the latest stories from your region and beyond

10 The big picture Dundee’s dramatic setting is seen at its best from high above

13 Viewpoint Scotland is beautiful – but it has the potential to be even better

14 Events Our pick of what’s coming up

42 Room report Forest Holidays, at Strathyre

45 Essentials What’s on, where to eat and stay

52 My winter Singer Eddi Reader has a full diary

Features 16 Lure of London Winter’s a great time to visit the big city, suggests Arusa Qureshi

24 Feeling brave? For some a mere run is not enough, Shona Marie MacLellan discovers

30 Mass. appeal Boston has history, sport and culture for everyone, Arusa Qureshi writes

36 Western wonder No wonder Gairloch is now a star of the big screen, says Brigid Benson

Contributors Brigid Benson Brigid is passionate about extraordinary people and places. She is the author of the award-winning books 52 Weekends by the Sea and 52 Weekends in the Country, and for this issue of aurora she sings the praises of Wester Ross.

Arusa Qureshi Arusa is in her final year at Edinburgh University, studying English literature. She spends a lot of time panicking about life after graduation, but calmed down enough to write us a great winter guide to London, a city she visits whenever she can.

Alan Watson Featherstone The founder of the environmental charity Trees for Life, which depends on the talents and hard work of its many volunteers, shares his vision of a Scotland with more wild land and a wider range of birds, animals and plants establishing themselves here.

Shona Marie MacLellan Shona Marie MacLellan, from South Uist, is a freelance Gaelic writer, translator and broadcaster. For this issue’s Gaelic feature, she looks at the growing – some might say bizarre – popularity of adventure racing.

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

6-9 News_news 05/11/2014 17:21 Page 6

NEWS

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Well connected INVERNESS Airport is really taking off, with the launch of flights to London City and Dublin. Flybe, Europe’s largest regional airline, has introduced the services as part of an expanded schedule from the Highland capital. It flies twice daily to London City and daily to Dublin. Services to Manchester will also be increased, with a third daily departure to the city, which is a fast growing hub for Flybe. Inglis Lyon, managing director of Highlands and Islands Airports, said: “The launch of new flights to London City is an important boost to Inverness Airport’s status as a hub for business travellers. About a third of our customers travel on business and with direct access to the heart of London’s financial district, we hope to increase our

share of this lucrative market. “The route is also ideal for leisure travellers as it’s well connected to the city centre and fashionable East End. London is one of the world’s great capitals and the launch of a new direct link into the city is an important boost for a regional airport like Inverness. "The new Dublin route also has great potential. The Irish inbound market is worth almost £30 million to the Scottish economy and the Highlands can now claim a greater share of this. For outbound passengers, Dublin is the ideal gateway to the US as it allows passengers to clear US immigration and border control checks at Dublin.” Meanwhile, winter flights to Europe’s ski capital Geneva are to run every Saturday between 20 December and 28 March 2015. Our picture shows, from left, Inglis Lyon, Inverness and Nairn MSP Fergus Ewing, Highland Council leader Drew Hendry, Flybe chief commercial officer Paul Simmons, and Inverness, Nairn, Badenoch and Strathspey MP Danny Alexander with Nessie cake.

The University of the Highlands and Islands is to boost its efforts to promote and develop the use of Gaelic. The university, which has several sites including Perth College UHI, pictured, aims to produce more bilingual resources and encourage staff to learn Gaelic and hold more Gaelic events.

• WINTER 2014/15

Pump action A NEW “pump track” is the latest addition to the Crown Estate’s bike trails at Glenlivet in the Cairngorms National Park. The BikeGlenlivet trails have already proved a big hit with families and experienced riders, with more than 10,000 using the trails since they opened last year. The new track will include jumps, bumps and banked corners designed to be negotiated using the rider’s momentum rather than pedal power. The 75-metre pump track is at the BikeGlenlivet hub, beside the Coffee Still Cafe and will be ideal for riders who want a warm-up before tackling the main trails. The Glenlivet Estate countryside manager, Vicky Hilton, said: “Our trails have attracted a fantastic amount of interest and thousands of visitors since they opened last year and the spinoff opportunities for the local community are significant.”

If you’re staying In Edinburgh and want a good night’s sleep then the Crowne Plaza in Royal Terrace is the place for you. Eight of its double rooms now form a ‘quiet zone’, with sound-proofed windows, housekeeping at certain times only, luxury bedding and aromatherapy kits.

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6-9 News_news 05/11/2014 17:22 Page 8

NEWS

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Windfall for island arts THE LEADING Hebridean arts centre, an Lanntair, in Stornoway, pictured left, has won funding of £1.21m over three years from Creative Scotland. The cash will help to support the organisation’s three-year business plan, and should act as a catalyst to attract further backing. David Green, chairman of an Lanntair, said the funding presented a “fantastic opportunity” that would have “a strong and positive impact across the social, cultural and economic landscape of the islands.” An Lanntair’s new director, Elly Fletcher, looks forward to developing “a superb programme of arts, creative and learning opportunities over the next three years.”

Open for business INVERNESS Airport Business Park has masses of potential – and now the site has a business development manager determined to make it an economic success story whose impact will be felt across the Highlands. Rory Black, right, says one obvious attraction of the 250-hectare park is space. Land for commercial use in Inverness itself has virtually run out, and with transport links to the business park already excellent and improving further, it is an attractive option for companies looking to expand or relocate to the Highlands. He says: “Here you’ll find a planning-approved greenfield site, with a strategic development partner and funding packages available, plus great accessibility to an experienced and skilled population.” He points to the forthcoming Tornagrain New Town development, dualling of the A96 between Inverness and Nairn, more dualling on the A9 and the proposed railway halt at Dalcross as examples of improved infrastructure that should help attract companies to the park, along with the redevelopment of the Port of Ardersier. For some companies, being beside the airport, with

It’s nice to see a picture book about Scotland that concentrates on people, rather than scenery, and This Is Scotland, by Daniel Gray and Alan McCredie (Luath, £9.99) is a fine example. The South Uist Clay Pigeon Club caravan, soldiers on a ferry, a man with a sunburnt back – they’re all here.

• WINTER 2014/15

its expanding connections, is an attraction in itself. But he adds: “One of the main factors is that any company coming to Inverness Airport Business Park will be moving into a bespoke high-quality facility, they will not be refurbishing or adapting an existing building, and that makes the option very appealing.” Rory is an Inverness native who left for Glasgow to study marketing at Strathclyde University, but was happy to return to his home city, which he and his wife, Sarah-Jane, feel is a great place for their young daughters, Anna and Mary, to grow up. www.iabp.co.uk

Most air travel websites assume that you know where you want to go, then find you the best price for your dates. But a recent arrival in the market, geniusflight.com, instead lists all possible destinations from your departure point on your chosen date, that fall within your budget. Why not give it a try?

6-9 News_news 05/11/2014 17:22 Page 9

Boost for board THE BOARD of Highlands & Islands Airports Limited has been strengthened by the appointment of two new non-executive directors, Lorna Jack and Jim McLaughlin. Lorna, pictured far right, is chief executive of the Law Society Scotland and is a qualified accountant. She says: “My role as a non-executive director is to support the Executive team to deliver on the organisation’s plans and, when appropriate, to hold them to account. I will be bringing clear financial experience to the board. I like to have a clear strategy, and as we start to think about strategy renewal I will be able to help.” Based in Edinburgh, she had previously used Inverness Airport, but since joining the board has visited a number of other airports in the group. She says: “As a board we listen to the communities the organisation serves. The challenges that Inverness Airport faces are very different to those that, say, Tiree Airport faces. There are a lot of opportunities ahead, particularly at some of the burgeoning airports, such as Sumburgh.” Jim, pictured above left, was until recently human resources director at the Nuclear Decommissioning Authority. He was accustomed to using Wick John O’Groats Airport when visiting Dounreay, and now his role with Highlands and Islands Airports will enable him

All the gen on Geneva GENEVA isn’t just the gateway to Europe’s finest ski resorts – it’s a great destination in itself. Now, recognising that women are often the driving force behind city break decisions, Geneva Tourism has launched a book called the Geneva Girls’ Guide, containing hundreds of tips from the city’s in-the-know females. Geneva’s idyllic lakeside setting among spectacular mountains is complemented by a

This Scots pine is no ordinary tree – it’s Scotland’s Tree of the Year. Lady’s Tree, on the Loch of the Lowes near Dunkeld, beat five other shortlisted trees in a public vote organised by the Woodland Trust and backed by players of the People’s Postcode Lottery. The 100-yearold tree is named after the osprey that has nested in it for the past 24 summers..

to visit the group’s other airports. The board meets every six weeks, at a different airport each time. He says: “My background is in people management and strategy, and I hope to be able to help the organisation in those areas.” Having been a non-executive director with Direct Rail Services and chairman of the events company Energus, Jim knows what to expect at HIAL: “The idea is to challenge the executive team, and at the same time to support it.” Based in Linlithgow, West Lothian, he also does consulting for the University of Strathclyde Business School.

wide range of spas, high-end stores, luxury hotels and some of the best restaurants anywhere. No wonder it was voted Europe’s leading city break destination at the World Travel Awards. On arrival in this lively city, which is served by weekly direct flights from Inverness all winter, you can buy the Geneva Girls’ Guide from the tourist information centre in Rue du Mont-Blanc for 15.90 Swiss francs.

Castles are a muchloved symbol of Scotland, but many were neglected for centuries until a drive to restore them began in recent decades. Scotland’s Castles, by Janet Brennan-Inglis, published by The History Press at £14.99, is an intriguing book telling the stories of the heroic efforts to revive these buildings.

We’re used to Harris tweed handbags, cushions and iPad covers, but this Harris tweed smock from the leading outdoor brand Keela is a welcome newcomer. With its waxed cotton shoulder panels and handy pockets, it’s aimed at the growing army of bushcraft enthusiasts. Look out for it early next year.

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

10-11 Big Pic_Big picture 05/11/2014 17:24 Page 10

THE BIG PICTURE

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BRIGHT PROSPECT Dundee is said to be the sunniest city in the UK, and this shot shows it at its brightest. The picture is taken from a great new book, Britain from Above, published by Times Books at £25, and like the many other images in the collection it is well worth a close look. The city’s densely packed buildings and streets form a sharp contrast with the woods and fields of Fife at the other end of the Tay Road Bridge. Starting from the university area on the far right, as the eye moves leftwards and up it takes in the tiny-looking RSS Discovery, the elegant Steeple Church, with the shops of the Overgate Centre curving around it, the rejuvenated docks and the houses and gardens of Broughty Ferry, with the sands of Buddon Ness beyond. Photograph: Aerial Photography Solutions

• WINTER 2014/15

10-11 Big Pic_Big picture 05/11/2014 17:24 Page 11

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

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13 Viewpoint_viewpoint 05/11/2014 17:26 Page 13

VIEWPOINT

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A wild THE BEAUTY OF SCOTLAND IS RIGHTLY RENOWNED – BUT IT COULD BE EVEN BETTER, ARGUES ALAN WATSON FEATHERSTONE

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examples including the return of ANY visitors come to the osprey and the increase in Scotland for its natural pine marten numbers. Species beauty, and indeed the green, that were lost from Scotland, such wide-open landscapes of glens as the white-tailed sea eagle and and mountains are iconic images the red kite, have been reintrosuccessfully promoted by the duced. A five-year trial nation’s tourism industry. reintroduction of beavers at KnapStunning and spectacular dale was completed earlier this though such vistas undoubtedly year, and a government report in are, their beauty is nevertheless a 2015 will determine whether or reduced one, a shadow of the not more widespread beaver richness and diversity of the reintroductions will proceed. country before much of its “Artificially high The regeneration of native forests natural wealth was depleted numbers of deer and and recovery of wildlife populations during past centuries. sheep have suppressed This is particularly true of the the growth of new trees” are key elements in rewilding, a concept and practice that has Highlands, where many of Scotgained considerable attention recently. In essence, it land’s most scenic landscapes are, but it also applies to involves returning ecosystems to a state of natural health other regions, including the Southern Uplands and and balance again, in which they are able to sustain many of the islands. In all those areas, the land as we themselves without the need for ongoing management. know it has lost most of its original vegetation (due to Trees for Life, the charity I founded in 1986, has past deforestation), much of its wildlife, and indeed the been engaging thousands of volunteers in positive people themselves, who lived there in greater numbers, and practical action for rewilding for over 25 years. before the land became incapable of supporting them. The fruits of our efforts, and those of others, are now Following the loss of most of the country’s native becoming visible in the landscape, through the forests, artificially high numbers of deer and sheep growth of trees, and these young native woodlands have suppressed the growth of new trees and other are providing an expanded home for wildlife, from vegetation for the past two centuries, keeping the land wood ants and red squirrels to black grouse. For these in a state of minimal biological productivity. Even the recovering ecosystems to become self-sustaining, red deer, such a symbol of the Highlands and known as though, top predators are required, and the lynx is the Monarch of the Glens, is but a shadow of its former considered the most viable of our missing carnivores self; in Scotland today the red deer are substantially smaller than those in continental Europe, where they still for reintroduction in the next decade. The rewilding of suitable parts of Scotland offers an have a forest habitat to live in. exciting and inspiring vision of hope for the future, in Over the past quarter of a century, increasing numbers of people have become aware of this biological which we pass on to future generations a more vibrant and naturally diverse country than we inherited. It also impoverishment, and action has been initiated to help offers a fitting complement to the current movement for reverse it. Projects have been launched to regenerate greater political self-determination, as a healthy society, and expand native forests, from Assynt in the northwest with control over its own affairs, by necessity involves Highlands to Carrifran in the Borders, involving governcare for the health of the land itself. ment agencies, conservation groups and landowners. Similarly, initiatives have been launched to help the country’s wildlife populations recover, with successful www.treesforlife.org.uk • WINTER 2014/15

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

14-15 Events_events 05/11/2014 17:31 Page 14

EVENTS!

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LOOK LIVELY MUSIC, DOGS, ART, FILM AND FIRE – WHO ON EARTH SAID WINTER WAS A QUIET SEASON?

CELTIC CONNEC TIONS Various venues, Gl asgow 15 January-1 Febr uary www.celticconnecti ons.com

This magnificent fes tival brings together a rich mi x of musical styles . The bill includes cu rrent folk giants such as Kate Rusby , far left, legends suc h as Van Morrison an d Fairport Conventio n, overseas talents suc h as Galician multiinstrumentalist Carlos Nunez, left, Maori outfit Waior a and US gospel group the Campbell Brothers . See ‘My Winter’ with Eddi Reader, page 50.

PHOTOGRAPH

: HELEN WO

OD/SIBERPRIN

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Y SLED DOG RALL Aviemore 24-25 January yclub.org.uk www.siberianhusk shers – come from Racers – sorry, mu the biggest event in for all over the UK d calendar, organise the sled dog racing re mi Ad . sky Club by the Siberian Hu in the exciting el rev d an gs the do at day out. atmosphere for a gre

• WINTER 2014/15

14-15 Events_events 06/11/2014 11:14 Page 15

PHOTOGRAPH: WWW.SHETLAND.ORG

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by the party inspired The celebrated es lv vo in e heritag islands’ Viking llers, ve re ed m stu 0 co more than 1,00 s draws onlooker or guizers, and ain e world. The m from all over th ace pl of e takes prid guizer, the Jarl, akes m it as y his galle at the helm of by n w to the its way though burned amid be to ht ig hl torc t. en much excitem

WORKINGMAN – THE HOMECOMING Scotland Street School Museum, Glasgow Until early February bit.ly/scotssm The paintings of artist Alexander Millar, left, that feature two Glasgow characters “auld man” and “auld woman” are on show in the Charles Rennie Mackintosh-designed museum. His exhibition is intended to celebrate Scotland’s industrial heritage exhibitions, too.

N FILM BANFF MOUNTAI TOUR LD FESTIVAL WOR Various venues uary January and Febr m www.banff-uk.co adventures Witness inspiring m the fro s and expedition t as films sea ur yo comfort of ping from this jaw-drop to r tou on go al festiv uary), Edinburgh (24 Jan ruary), Inverness (12-13 Feb and ry) rua Feb Pitlochry (14 It’s a . ry) rua Feb (15 Glasgow ion act mix of nail-biting king and thought-provo documentary. PHOTOGRAPH: KENNAN HARVEY

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

16-21 London_London 05/11/2014 17:40 Page 16

LONDON

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HEAVEN ELEVEN A WINTER BREAK IN LONDON WILL BE NON-STOP ACTION. ARUSA QURESHI PICKS HER TOP 11 CAPITAL PLEASURES

Get your skates on How better to get into the festive spirit than visiting one of London’s Christmas ice rinks? Whether you’re an expert or a terrified first-timer, the gorgeous atmosphere and backdrop will be enough to leave you in awe. Head to Somerset House for a hint of luxury with your skating, or to the Natural History Museum, pictured above, which has both a huge rink and a smaller family space. For a slightly different experience, there is no better place than Westfield’s 160-capacity indoor rink, where you can enjoy family entertainment and shopping alongside a spot of skating. There’s also Hyde Park’s Winter Wonderland, pictured left, which features ice skating, circus shows, a magical ice kingdom, an ice bar, a giant observation wheel, rides, Santa land and markets.

• WINTER 2014/15

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Wonder at wedding dresses The V&A exhibition Wedding Dresses: 1775-2014 traces the development of the wedding dress as we know it today, featuring the work of key fashion designers such as John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood and Vera Wang. Indulge in some romance and glamour and take a peek at some of the most extravagant and beautiful wedding dresses the world has ever seen. Until 15 March.

Give ballet a twirl This winter, the Royal Opera House is hosting Christopher Wheeldon’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, which is a magnificent show for a great number of reasons. Of course, the show features absolutely stunning visuals thanks to designer Bob Crowley. But Jody Talbot’s score is also brilliant, going perfectly hand-in–hand with the show’s choreography. For something more traditional, head to the London Coliseum for Tchaikovsky’s classic Swan Lake, choreographed by Derek Deane.

See a show Theatreland, above right, is an essential port of call for visitors and the festive period is a great time to go. Matthew Bourne’s dance adaptation of Tim Burton’s Edward Scissorhands returns to Sadler’s Wells this Christmas – expect some truly exciting choreography. For a family-friendly extravaganza, look no further than the Peacock Theatre, which plays host to the Raymond Briggs classic The Snowman, pictured above left. Music, a full orchestra, story telling and dance add up to a magical experience.

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

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LONDON

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Treat yourself For Christmas shopping, this city is the place. High-end stores such as Harrods and Selfridges stock pricey gifts aplenty, but for a bargain try one of the many markets. Borough Market specialises in gourmet food while there’s everything from clothes to records at Old Spitalfields Market. The new Foyles Bookstore on Charing Cross Road is well worth a visit. With more than 200,000 titles on four miles of shelves, the spacious former home of Central Saint Martins art college supplies the perfect environment to discover new books.

Join the fast lane As Britain’s longest indoor go-kart track, the newly opened Capital Karts, above right, offers something truly exhilarating. Adrenalin junkies can race in RIMO Alpha Go Karts – the ones that Formula 1 stars drive to relax, apparently. In a UK first, this 1050m European-style track offers the ultimate driving experience.

• WINTER 2014/15

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Go Gothic Head to the British Library for its scary exhibition Terror and Wonder – The Gothic Imagination. From Horace Walpole’s The Castle of Otranto, which sparked the birth of a number of Gothic conventions, to Buffy the Vampire Slayer, one of the most academically studied pop culture properties of all time, the Gothic genre is always evolving. The exhibition features all the classics such as Dracula and Frankenstein but also Gothic-inspired artworks and modern photography and costumes. One not to miss, especially for anyone who loves Gothic literature, art or film. Until 20 January.

Deutsch discovery

Top table One of London’s most historic restaurants, Quaglino’s, in St James’s – see pictures, left – has undergone a multi-million pound renovation. It opened in 1929 and became a favoured location for the city’s glamourati. With a fabulous contemporary European menu and a 300-bin wine list, this is the place for luxurious dining. There’s no rush – DJs and live bands will keep you entertained into the early hours. No wonder Roxy Music liked it so much (remember that line from Do The Strand? “Do it on the tables. Quaglino’s place or Mabel’s…” No? Well, it’s a classic – ask your dad.)

Germany is a fascinating country, yet its achievements get less attention than those of, say, Italy and France. Looking at the past 600 years in the context of the fall of the Berlin Wall, the British Museum exhibition Memories of a Nation is packed with objects, such as this 1920s vase from Brandenburg. Examine the troubled 20th century or enjoy the artistic, technological and architectural achievements that the country is renowned for today. Until 25 January.

Flybe now runs twice daily flights between Inverness and London City – very handy for all parts of London. Flights leave Inverness at 07:15 and 17:15, one-way fares from £49.99. Easyjet flies twice daily from Inverness to London Gatwick at 06:40 and 16:00, one-way fares from £13.99. From Dundee, Loganair, Flybe’s franchise partner, flies twice daily to London Stansted, with fares from £74.99 one way. See www.flybe.com and www.easyjet.com

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

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LONDON

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Still not exhausted? THEN HERE’S MORE

MAYOR OF SCAREDY CAT TOWN The entrance to this speakeasy-style bar is through a fridge in the dining area of Spitalfields Breakfast Club. But the bar isn’t just known for its quirkiness, it also features a fantastic menu of well-crafted cocktails. ARCHIPELAGO

Visit Hogwarts You’re bound to see at least one Harry Potter film over Christmas, so why not see where they were made? The Warner Brothers Studio, in Watford, just 20 minutes from Euston Station, offers fans a tour giving access to iconic props, costumes and sets, plus an insight into the magic of filmmaking. This Christmas, the studio has a seasonal makeover as the Great Hall is filled with actual props and decorations from the films. Visitors will get a first-hand look at how the Christmas feasts were created and filmed – see above. A treat for adults and children alike.

For some truly exotic dining, look no further than Archipelago restaurant. Guests are invited on a “sensory dining journey” as dishes such as crocodile, wildebeest and kangaroo are served up alongside standards. BRICK LANE Why not enjoy a curry at any of the delicious restaurants along this famous East End street? While you’re there, pop along to Beyond Retro for some vintage shopping, or to Rough Trade for all your vinyl needs. HINTHUNT You’re trapped in a room with 2-4 other people and you have 60 minutes to escape by solving a number of puzzles and mysteries. The goal is simple: work with your teammates and get out in time! ELECTRIC CINEMA

Revel in Rembrandt The National Gallery’s exhibition Rembrandt: The Late Works shows how the artist’s later years were full of tragedy and loss. He had already suffered the early loss of his wife and three of their children, but he then went on to face bankruptcy, legal wrangles and the loss of his only remaining son. But surprisingly this didn’t limit his talent – rather he was able to hone in on a style of painting that was expressive and highly creative. The innovative nature of his later pieces earned him the title of “the greatest master of the Dutch Golden Age” and this show lets you experience all his intensity and emotion at first hand. £

• WINTER 2014/15

This cinema in Shoreditch is the ultimate in comfort. Here you can enjoy a broad range of films from your soft, velvet sofa decorated with plumped-up cushions. A selection of food, cocktails and beer are on sale at the bar. HAUNTED THEATRELAND From Soho to Covent Garden, take a guided walking tour and peek into the darker side of Theatreland’s history as you explore the secrets behind some famous venues. TOWER BRIDGE TOUR For exclusive access to areas that are normally off-limits, book a slot on one of the much-loved bridge’s engineering tours. Enjoy impressive views and fascinating behind the scenes information and discover how the famous bridge is raised and lowered. For fuller details see www.aurora-mag.com

aurora winter 14_15 ad pages_Ad Pages 05/11/2014 18:47 Page 21

aurora winter 14_15 ad pages_Ad Pages 05/11/2014 18:47 Page 22

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9 Return flights from a choice of Scottish airports 9 Comfortable, modern coach transfers 9 We are ABTA and ATOL bonded, providing you with financial peace of mind

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The colourful charms of Southern Italy, and the elegance of a classic coastal resort first discovered by Romans seeking rest and relaxation.

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Discover the charm and warm hospitality of the Neapolitan Riviera, one of the Mediterranean’s most highly favoured corners.

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24-29 Gaelic_Gaelic 05/11/2014 17:47 Page 24

DÙBHLAIN

24

ÀM IOMAIRT

DEALBHAN: NO FUSS EVENTS; DURTY EVENTS; WILD FOX EVENTS; HANDS ON EVENTS; RAT RACE; MALCOLM COCHRANE; STEVE CARTER

AIRSON CUID AGAINN CHAN EIL A’ RUITH AIR RATHAD MATH GU LEÒR. THA SHONA MARIE NICILLFHIALAIN A’ TOIRT SÙIL AIR DÈ THA TARRAINGEACH MU DHEIDHINN RÈISEAN CRUADALACH

• GEAMHRADH 2014/15

24-29 Gaelic_Gaelic 05/11/2014 17:47 Page 25

N

UAIR A CHLUINNEAS cuid na faclan cruadalaich, rèis neo dùbhlan, chuirear sin daoine dheth bho rudeigin a dhèanamh ach airson cuid eile, ’se na faclan sin a tha iad airson a chluinntinn nuair a thig e gu rèis-cruadalaich (adventure race) neo marathon. Mu tha rudeigin doirbh, ’s ann is fhèarr. Tha an àireamh de dhaoine a tha a' còimhead airson dùbhlan sònraichte air èirigh agus tha iad a' tighinn dhan Ghàidhealtachd agus na h-Eileanan airson fhaighinn. Thairis air na beagan bhliadhnachan a chaidh seachad, tha mòran rèisean dùbhlanach cruadalaich a-nis a’ tachairt air feadh an roinn, a’ toirt air gaisgich gabhail thairis air teachd an tìr agus gu math tric gun sian a bharrachd ach gu bheil iad an gnothach a dhèanamh air. Dè tha a’ tarraing daoine gu aon rèis gu sònraichte? Agus dè tha ga fhàgail na dùbhlan? Tha a’ trèanadh airson rèis mar marathon neo lethmarathon na dheagh tòiseach tòiseachaidh. Thug Ruairidh Gibson, bho Inbhir Nis air fhèin dùbhlain deich rèisean an-uiridh a’ ruith airson carthannas a bha a’ toirt a-staigh measgachadh de rèisean 10k agus duathlons air feadh a’ Ghàidhealtachd agus hEileanan agus e ag innse carson a thagh e iad: “Dhomhsa, bha diofar adhbharan ann na rèisean seo a thaghadh. Bha dhà neo trì faisg orm mar an leth-marathon ann an Inbhir Nis. Thagh mi an Glenlivet 10k agus an Nethy 12k airson na Co-fharpaiseachan anns an Rat Race; A’ tighinn a-mach à Loch Tatha rè an Artemis Great Kindrochit Quadrathlon; Streap fada air an Coast to Coast

seallaidhean agus airson pàirt a ghabhail ann a rèis nach robh air rathad. Bha an fheadhainn eile air a thaghadh a chionns gun robh caraidean a’ ruith còmhla rium no bha dùbhlan a bharrachd ann.

An trèan “Fear de na rèisean is fhèarr no a chòrd rium gu mòr, ’se Race the Train. Math airson an fheadhainn a tha dìreach air tòiseachadh a’ ruith, ’se rèis 8K a th’ ann bho Coit a’ Ghartain dhan Aghaidh Mhòr an aghaidh trean agus rinn mi an gnothach air! ’Se deagh rèis a th’ ann. Chan ann a h-uile latha a gheibh thu cothrom ruith an aghaidh trean! An fhear bu duilighe a rinn mi ’se an Nairnshire Challenge. Tachartas math ach bha an t-sìde truagh. Bha e math crìoch a chur air ach bha a’ ruith agus a’ dol air baidhseagal agus an t-sìle ann airson ceithir uairean a thìde gu math trom. Agus nuair a ghoirtich mi mo ghluin, bha mi a’ smaointinn gun robh an dùbhlan agam deiseil. Bha agad ri ruith thairis mòinteach Cawdor, tarsaing abhainn anns an droch shìde agus fios agad gu bheil 18 mìle agad ri dhèanamh fhathast air baidhseagal.” A bharrachd air an dùbhlan pearsanta gus 10 rèisean a dhèanamh, chruinnich Ruairidh £970 airson diofar carthannasan: “Ged a chaidh mo ghoirteachadh agus bha an t-sìde dona uaireanan, dhomhsa, bha a’ criochnachadh rèis, a’ coimhead air seallaidhean fhads a bha mi a’ ruith agus a’ cruinneachadh airgead airson carthannas, uile ga dhèanamh math dhomh. An ath bhliadhna, tha dùil agam 10 rèisean a dhèanamh a-rithist. Tha dùil agam marathon, coig leth-marathons agus ceithir tachartasan eile a dhèanamh. Tha mi an dòchas an rèis Gairloch 10k a dhèanamh neo an Great Wilderness Challenge.”

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

aurora winter 14_15 ad pages_Ad Pages 05/11/2014 18:47 Page 26

Hotel Hebrides is a four star award winning boutique We e have exacting standards hotel in the Outer Hebrides. W across all aspects of the hotel from our bedroom design to veryy high g quality q y service levels. Our Pierhouse Seafood Restaurant is now a must visit destination restaurant serving the finest Hebridean seafood. . Isle of Harris . HS3 3DG . Scotland Hotel Hebrides . Pier Road . Tarbert arb a Teel: +44 (0)1859 502364 | Fax:+44 (0)1859 502578 E-mail: stay@hotel-hebrides.com | www.hotel-hebrides.com

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To read our feature on adventure racing in English, see the aurora website, www.aurora-mag.com

Airson an fheadhainn a tha airson rudeigin a tha nas duilighe buileach a dhèanamh agus a tha airson iad fhèin a phutadh, tha na rèisean cruadalach. Làn poll agus lùths, tha na rèisean seo a’ toirt a-staigh barrachd na direach a’ ruith. Dh’fhaodadh gu bheil thu a' ruith thairis mòinteach, a’ dol air baidhseagal air talamh duilich, a’ snàmh neo ag iomradh thairis uisge. Tha ùidh anns na rèisean seo ag èirigh agus ’se seo an t-àm as fhèarr airson rèis a thaghadh, foirm a’ lìonadh agus trèanadh a thoiseachadh. Cha bu choir do dhuine sam bith na rèisean a dhèanamh gun trèanadh agus ged a chanadh cuid gu bheil na daoine a tha a’ dèanamh na rèisean ‘craicte’, tha iad a’ dèanamh tòrr trèanadh airson na rèisean seo. Mar sin, mu tha thu airson thu fhèin a fhluicheadh, a bhith làn poll agus làn sgrìoban, gu math sgìth ach gu math tòilichte nuair a tha thu deiseil dhen rèis, bheir sùil air na rèisean aig Durty Events. Chruthaich Paul McGreal, na tachartasan seo agus dh’ innse e carson a thagh e a’ Ghàidhealtachd agus na hEileanan airson na tachartasan aige. “Tha Durty Events airson tachartasan a chur air dòigh ann an àiteachan air leth sònraichte. Feumaidh iad a bhith eireachdail le seallaidhean àlainn. Feumaidh iad cuideachd taic fhaighinn bho na coimhearsnachdan airson an cur air dòigh.

Iongantach Fear de na tachartasan a tha a’ còrdadh ri mòran ’se an Craggy Island Triathlon a th’ air Eilean Cearara. ’Se àite iongantach a th’ ann làn daoine taiceil agus air leth. Bi Donnachadh Mac Eachainn, fear-aiseig an eilean gam chuideachadh. Tha sinn a’ creidsinn gu bheil a’ snàmh bho tìr mòr chun an eilean mar pàirt den triathlon air leth agus tha na compàirt againn a’

A’ tòiseachadh tràth (mullach) agus àm ùrachadh aig an Celtman

smaointinn gu bheil na seallaidhean bho Mhuile agus Latharna a’ còrdadh riutha cuideachd. Tha mi fhèin agus Donnachadh air a bhith nan caraidean fad bhliadhnachan, tha mi air grunn Nollaigean agus Oidhche Chulaig a chur seachad air an eilean. ’Se àite fiadhaich, àlainn a th’ ann, nach eil ri fhaighinn ann am mòran àiteachan eile agus tha na slighean air an eilean dìreach math airson triathlon nach eil air rathad. Thainig an tachartas mun cuairt as dèidh leann neo dhà a ghabhail ann an taigh Dhonnachaidh air aon latha Nollaig! Chaidh tachartas eile a chruthachadh le Paul, beagan bhliadhnachan air ais leis an t-ainm The Celtman: Bha mi dìreach air crìoch a chur air ‘ultra triathlon’ còmhla ri ceathrar eile ann an taobh an Iar a' Ghàidhealtachd. Thug am pàirt far an robh an 180 mìle air baidhseagal mi tro Ghleann Toirbheartain airson a’ chiad uair. Ged a bha mi uabhasach sgìth, bha na chunnaic mi mìorbhaileach. Nuair a bha mi a' bruidhinn ri Stuart McInnes a bhitheas gam chuideachadh le a’ cur air dòigh an Celtman, bha sinn a’ còimhead airson àite far an urrainn dhuinn rèis coltach ris an Norseman a chruthachadh ann an Alba. Dh’ fhaighnich e dhomh càite am bu AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

aurora winter 14_15 ad pages_Ad Pages 05/11/2014 18:47 Page 28

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chòir dhuinn a chumail agus bha sin furasta fhreagairt – rèis sònraichte a chumail ann a sgìre sònraichte ann an dùthaich cho eireachdail sa th’ann san t-saoghal. Nuair a thoisich sinn a’ cur air dòigh an rèis, thug na coimhearsnachdan ann an Sìldeag agus Toirbheartain dhuinn taic agus ’se an taic acasan agus an cuideachadh aca a tha a’ dèanamh an Celtman air leth airson a h-uile duine.

Seallaidhean A bharrachd air rèis a bhith air a chur ann an àite iomallach le talamh duilich, an t-sìde ann an Alba a’ dèanamh talamh sam bith doirbh le gaoth, uisge agus uaireanan sneachda. Cur ris a sin fraoch, boglachan, lochan agus creagan a tha Alba ainmeil air a shon agus tha an cùrsa nadarrach aca gan taladh. Tha gu leòr dheth sin air a’ Ghaidhealtachd agus na hEileanan ach airson mòran ’se am fàilte a gheibh iad bhon choimhearsnachd gan tarraing ann. Tha aon de na rèisean a tha a’ còrdadh ri daoine a’ tachairt air eilean Bharraigh, anns an h-Eileanan Siar. Tha am Barrathon mun cuairt rathad an eilean trom agus a-rèir aon neach a bhitheas a’ gabhail pàirt ann, Graham Milne, ball den Chlub Triathlon ann an Glaschu, gu bheil sin a’ còrdadh ri cuid a bhitheas a’ ruith: “’Se eilean àlainn a th’ ann airson thu fhèin a chur tro dùbhlan ach tha na seallaidhean ga dhèanamh. Tha mi air a bhith a’ dol gu Barraigh airson ceithir bliadhnachan a-nis. Tha an t-uabhas airson an rèis aca a dhèanamh gu bheil na 250 àite ri fhaighinn ga reic cho luath, tha iad a’ falbh ann an seachd mionaidean. Mar sin, mu tha sibh airson pàirt a ghabhail ann, feumaidh tu bhith luath. “Tha sinn daonnan a’ faighinn fàilte chridheil bhon eilean aig àm an rèis agus bi iad a’ leantail an

Luchd-baidhseagal anns an Artemis Great Kindrochit Quadrathlon agus, gu h-ìosal, ruitheadair rè an Highlander Mountain Marathon

rèis agus ag èigheachd dhuinn airson ar cumail a’ dol. Agus tha a chèilidh as dèidh làimh na tharraing cuideachd. Bi an còmhlan na Balaich Bhatarsaigh a’ cluich fad na oidhche, tha t-uabhas de bhiadh blàsta ga chur air bòrd agus nuairsin tha dannsairean an eilean a’ cur ris a chèilidh. Bi cuimhne agam air gu bràth.” Aig an àm seo den bhliadhna, bi cuid againn a’ smaointinn air rùintean na bliadhna ùire neo amasan ri dhèanamh na do bheatha. ’S docha gu bheil a’ ruith neo a’ dol air baidhseagal air an liosta. Mu tha, tha gu leòr clubaichean ruith ann a-nis air feadh Alba far an urrainn dhut barrachd ionnsachadh mu dheidhinn. Mu dh’ fhaoidte gur e 2015 am bliadhna a ni thu an gnothach air na rùintean pearsanta sin a choileanadh agus fhaicinn na tha aig a’ Ghàidhealtachd agus na h-Eileannan ri thabhann. £ www.durtyevents.com www.barrathon.org.uk www.invernesshalfmarathon.co.uk www.handsonevents.co.uk www.wildfoxevents.co.uk

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

30-33 Boston_Boston 06/11/2014 15:28 Page 30

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BOSTON BECKONS NOW’S THE TIME TO VISIT THE FASCINATING CITY WHERE THE STORY OF THE UNITED STATES STARTED, WRITES ARUSA QURESHI. AND WITH A SIMPLE CONNECTION FROM INVERNESS VIA DUBLIN, IT’S NEVER BEEN EASIER

• WINTER 2014/15

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EEP HISTORICAL and political roots make Boston one of the oldest and most fascinating cities in America. From the Boston Tea Party in 1773 to the Battle of Bunker Hill two years later, the city was the setting for a number of key events that led up to the American Revolution. But history is certainly not the only thing Boston has to offer.

When exploring Boston, the best way to start is undoubtedly to follow the Freedom Trail. One of Boston’s best known attractions, it was created in the 1950s by Bostonians who were determined to preserve the story of the American Revolution. With 16 sites spread along a 2.5 mile walking trail, it draws a huge number of visitors to the

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

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city every year. Start at the Boston Common, America’s oldest public park, to see where 1,000 Redcoats made camp during the British occupation of Boston in 1775 and where the hanging of witches, murderers and pirates used to take place. Other points of interest along the way are the site of the Boston Massacre, Paul Revere House and the USS Constitution, docked at Pier 1 of the former Charlestown Navy Yard, where the trail ends. For an alternative walking tour, the Black Heritage Trail gives visitors an introduction to the history of Boston’s 19th-century African-American community. The African Meeting House, the oldest black church still standing in the United States, is especially worth a visit as it was the site of Frederick Douglass’s influential 1860 anti-slavery speech. If you need something a little more kid-friendly, head to the Museum of Science to see everything • WINTER 2014/15

from dinosaur fossils and live animal presentations to micro-robots and butterflies. The museum houses vast collections of natural history phenomena and technological wonders for kids to marvel at as well as for adults to appreciate. The planetarium and 4-D theatre are particular highlights but why not visit the temporary Maya: Hidden Worlds Revealed exhibition, too? It allows visitors to explore Mayan culture through never-beforeshown artefacts and hands-on activities which highlight the rise and eventual decline of an incredible civilisation. The Museum of Science’s location on the Charles River offers outstanding views of the Boston and Cambridge skylines. Across the river in Cambridge lies Harvard University, one of the most prestigious universities in the world. Pop over to the campus for some interesting stories and a slightly different view of American and world history. With famous alumni including Barack Obama, TS Eliot and Natalie

30-33 Boston_Boston 05/11/2014 17:56 Page 33

Clockwise from main picture: ready for action at Fenway Park baseball stadium; the Arnold Arboretum; bringing history to life; shopping at the Prudential Centre; an attentive young visitor at the Science Museum. Previous pages: the city skyline provides the backdrop for dinghy sailors on the Charles River

Portman, the university consistently tops international rankings. There are free student-led tours of the campus every Saturday at 10am, noon and 2pm. As well as the university, the Arnold Arboretum of Harvard is another worthwhile site to see. It occupies 281 acres and features a comprehensive living collection of trees, shrubs and woody vines. On top of its educational value, it’s a lovely haven, perfect for walks and quiet reflection away from the hustle and bustle of the city centre. However, if hustle and bustle is precisely what you're looking for, head to the Back Bay for some of Boston's finest shopping. Newbury Street is perfect for high-end shops including Chanel and Cartier. Often described as one of the most expensive streets in the world, Newbury Street is bursting with luxury. Elsewhere in Back Bay, the Copley Place shopping

mall is also full of upscale brands like Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior and the Prudential Centre is home to a 620,000-square-foot mall packed with shops and restaurants. For something slightly different, head to Faneuil Hall Marketplace for the oldest market in the Boston area. With quaint little stalls selling every type of food that you can imagine, Faneuil has something for everyone. In contrast, a visit to Fenway Park baseball stadium is a must. Composer John Williams once said of the place: “When you think about Boston, Harvard and MIT are the brains of the city, and its soul might be Faneuil Hall or the State House or the Old Church. But I think the pulsing, pounding heart of Boston is Fenway Park.” The home of the Red Sox team has been around since the early 1900s and is a true piece of American history and culture. As well as taking a tour, be sure to catch a game to soak up the fantastic atmosphere. Even if you’re not familiar with the rules of baseball, the excitement will be enough to keep you entertained. If you’re looking for alternative forms of fun, AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

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Boston certainly has it covered. The Museum of Fine Arts is one of the most comprehensive art museums in the world, with a collection of nearly 450,000 works. The current Hollywood Glamour: Fashion and Jewellery from the Silver Screen exhibition displays the glamorous world of Hollywood in the 1930s and 40s. Focusing on the style of starlets including Marlene Dietrich and Joan Crawford, it lets you take a look at the most exquisite designer gowns and jewellery from the period. Alternatively, the Goya: Order and Disorder exhibition gives an insight into the world of a master of European art. Highlighting the competing forces of order and disorder in the Spanish Old Master’s life, it conveys his creativity very well. For a different sort of cultural outing, the Boston Symphony Orchestra at the Symphony Hall is brilliant. Listen to inspiring pieces played by passionate musicians surrounded by architecture that is truly awe-inspiring. The current programme is full of music from different genres and periods and has received great acclaim so far, thanks in part to new conductor Andris Nelsons. This winter, cellists YoYo Ma and Gautier Capucon will be featuring alongside the BSO and with guest musicians visiting regularly, it’s worth keeping an eye out for your favourites. For a pre- or post-show drink, Boston has some fantastic pubs and bars to choose from. For fine craft beer, head to the Cambridge Brewing Company, a favourite among locals and • WINTER 2014/15

Clockwise from above: Joan Crawford’s jewellery and gowns from the Hollywood Glamour exhibition; the city’s orchestra in action; the pints flow. Below: the most famous Boston bar

tourists alike. With some of the best house beers around, including the Tall Tale Pale Ale and Charles River Porter, and interesting seasonals, too, like the Great Pumpkin Ale, visitors will be spoilt for choice. If cocktails are more your thing, Brick & Mortar is a great place to visit. With records spinning constantly in the background and an excellent cocktail menu, the Central Square cocktail bar has a very classy, cool vibe. Boston is also home to one of the most iconic bars in popular culture. Pop into the Cheers bar from the opening credits of Eighties sitcom Cheers for a drink and a good old sing-along. Altogether now: “Where everybody knows your name...” £

Getting there Fly from Inverness to Dublin with Flybe for an easy onward connection to Boston, with pre-clearance for US immigration and customs.

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34-39 Gairloch_Gairloch 11/17/14 11:26 AM Page 36

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GO WEST ON A GREAT ESCAPE TO GORGEOUS GAIRLOCH, BRIGID BENSON DISCOVERED THE MAGNIFICENT HIGHLAND SCENERY OF THE HIT FILM ‘WHAT WE DID ON OUR HOLIDAY’

T

HE COMEDY What We Did On Our Holiday explores the tensions of a grand family gathering at which adults strive to keep secrets from each other only to find themselves upstaged and astounded by the unabashed honesty and extraordinary actions of junior members of the clan. Much of the action, featuring Billy Connolly, David Tennant and Rosamund Pike, unfolds at an imposing country house, but the most memorable scenes are filmed amid the wild Wester Ross landscape at Red Point beach, near Gairloch, a couple of hours drive from Inverness. The scenic journey from the capital of the Highlands to the rugged coast is spectacular and • WINTER 2014/15

my advice is to allow plenty of time to admire the views. Awesome mountain scenery clamours for your attention and frequent pit stops along the way are hard to resist. The route skirts the shores of Loch Maree, the fourth largest freshwater loch in Scotland. Dreamy wooded islands rise out of the huge shimmering pool bounded by high mountains. Little wonder that it was in this extraordinary setting that the seventh-century Celtic monk Maelrubha founded a religious cell, on Isle Maree. Britain’s first National Nature Reserve, Beinn Eighe, was established here in 1951 to protect a precious landscape where golden eagles soar high

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PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIGID BENSON; BBC FILMS; NTS

Clockwise from left: Red Point beach; Inverewe Garden; Billy Connolly and Rosamund Pike in What We Did On Our Holiday; Ben Miller and David Tennant

above red deer in ancient pinewoods, survivors of the Great Wood of Caledon, a forest that may have cloaked the Highlands extensively. In autumn the mountains resound to the battle cry of bellowing stags. Their deep, eerie moan is spine tingling as they prepare for brutal combat to win the right to mate with hinds that are fertile only for a day or so each year. Before reaching Gairloch, do succumb to the invitation of the B8056 single-track road with passing places that meanders through far flung crofting communities with the promise of Red Point beach at the end.

Linger at Badachro, an idyllic anchorage in Loch Gairloch sheltered by Dry Island, Eilean Tioram and the now sleepy Eillean Horrisdale where the crofting community worked at a former cod curing station. At high or low water the jumble of fishing boats and pleasure boats in Badachro Bay is a joyful sight. AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

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The scenery that brought gasps from the audience for What We Did On Our Holiday(below)

The minor road visits Shieldaig, where there’s a traditional Victorian hunting and shooting lodge, and Port Henderson, where a lucky boat builder claimed to have met a mermaid who promised to keep safe anyone who sailed his boats. At Opinan gentle walks through the dunes lead to a beautiful sandy beach and from the hamlet of South Erradale spectacular coastal scenery offers views across the Minch to the isles of Rona, Raasay and Skye. Next stop Red Point. I recall that when the glorious beach loomed large on screen at the cinema where I saw What We Did On Our Holiday, there was an audible gasp of awe from the audience. For anyone inspired to discover it, the real life beauty of this untamed place does not disappoint. Before the minor road reaches the amber sands, take the opportunity to pause at the hilltop viewpoint for an unforgettable panorama of Hebridean islands, beaches, heather moorland and majestic mountains. In the movie the magical beach soon begins casting

• WINTER 2014/15

its spell as anarchic grandfather Gordy, played by Billy Connolly, delights in revealing the wild scenery of his youth to a trio of intrepid grandchildren from London. Larking around on the sand, they share precious life lessons. From remote Red Point it is just 12 miles to the hub of Gairloch pier at Charlestown. Here you will find good food, great coffee and marine wildlife boat trips that are hard to resist when notice boards report regular sightings of otters, dolphins, basking sharks and minke whales. An award-winning glass bottomed boat reveals the wonders of the crystal clear shallow waters, including rare starfish. During the making of the film, the cast and crew were often in the cafés and shops around Gairloch. At the friendly Gairloch Pantry, owner Claire Senior, coffee connoisseur and trained barista, laughingly recalls what she describes as Billy Connolly Sunday; her best ever day of trading prompted by news spreading around the village that the celebrity had dropped in for a cuppa. At The Treasure Chest gift shop you may be surprised to encounter handsome growling teddy bears hand crafted in Gairloch by Allan and Wendy Mullaney. When she is not working in the shop, Jan MacGregor loves to be outdoors enjoying the landscape. Her favourite view is from the road to Poolewe, overlooking Tollie Farm. “It just takes your breath away. You can see the whole length of Loch Maree. You can walk on the shore there and not meet a soul apart from deer and cattle. If you’re feeling fed up, go there, have a little cry and you’ll come back feeling exhilarated!”

aurora winter 14_15 ad pages_Ad Pages 05/11/2014 18:48 Page 37

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Just Just North of Gairloch and Inverewe Inverewe Gardens, Gardens, Aultbea Hotel Hotel is nestled nestled on the edge edge of Loch Loch EEwe. we. Enjoy from locally sourced lightt lunch; Enjoy a seasonal dinner fr om a loc ally sour ced menu; a ligh Ĺ˝ĆŒ Ć?Ĺ?žƉůLJ Ć?ŽžÄž ĹšŽžÄž Ä?Ä‚ĹŹĹ?ĹśĹ? ĂŜĚ ĨĆŒÄžĆ?Ĺš Ĺ?ĆŒŽƾŜÄš Ä?ŽčĞĞ Ç ĹšĹ?ĹŻĆ?Ćš Ć?ŽĂŏĹ?ĹśĹ? Ĺ?Ĺś ƚŚĞ Ĺ˝ĆŒ Ć?Ĺ?žƉůLJ Ć?ŽžÄž ĹšŽžÄž Ä?Ä‚ĹŹĹ?ĹśĹ? ĂŜĚ ĨĆŒÄžĆ?Ĺš Ĺ?ĆŒŽƾŜÄš Ä?ŽčĞĞ Ç ĹšĹ?ĹŻĆ?Ćš Ć?ŽĂŏĹ?ĹśĹ? Ĺ?Ĺś ƚŚĞ ŽƾĆšĆ?ƚĂŜĚĹ?ĹśĹ? Ç€Ĺ?ÄžÇ Ć? ĨĆŒŽž ƚŚĞ ĆŒÄžĆ?ĆšÄ‚ĆľĆŒÄ‚ĹśĆš ĂŜĚ Ä?ŽŜĆ?ÄžĆŒÇ€Ä‚ĆšĹ˝ĆŒÇ‡Í˜ ŽƾĆšĆ?ƚĂŜĚĹ?ĹśĹ? Ç€Ĺ?ÄžÇ Ć? ĨĆŒŽž ƚŚĞ ĆŒÄžĆ?ĆšÄ‚ĆľĆŒÄ‚ĹśĆš ĂŜĚ Ä?ŽŜĆ?ÄžĆŒÇ€Ä‚ĆšĹ˝ĆŒÇ‡Í˜ &Ĺ˝ĆŒ ĆšĆŒĆľÄž ĆŒÄžĹŻÄ‚Ç†Ä‚Ć&#x;ŽŜÍ• žĂŏĞ Ä‚ ĹśĹ?Ĺ?Śƚ ŽĨ Ĺ?Ćš ĂŜĚ ĨÄ‚ĹŻĹŻ Ä‚Ć?ůĞĞƉ Ĺ?Ĺś Ä‚ Ć?ĆľĆ‰ÄžĆŒ ĹŹĹ?ĹśĹ? Ć?Ĺ?njĞ Ä?ĞĚ &Ĺ˝ĆŒ ĆšĆŒĆľÄž ĆŒÄžĹŻÄ‚Ç†Ä‚Ć&#x;ŽŜÍ• žĂŏĞ Ä‚ ĹśĹ?Ĺ?Śƚ ŽĨ Ĺ?Ćš ĂŜĚ ĨÄ‚ĹŻĹŻ Ä‚Ć?ůĞĞƉ Ĺ?Ĺś Ä‚ Ć?ĆľĆ‰ÄžĆŒ ĹŹĹ?ĹśĹ? Ć?Ĺ?njĞ Ä?ĞĚ Ĺ?Ĺś ŽŜÄž ŽĨ ŽƾĆŒ ĹŻĹ˝Ä?Ĺš ĨÄ‚Ä?Ĺ?ĹśĹ? ĆŒŽŽžĆ? ƚŽ ƚŚĞ Ć?ŽƾŜÄš ŽĨ ƚŚĞ Ç Ä‚ĆšÄžĆŒ ůĂƉƉĹ?ĹśĹ? Ĺ?ĞŜƚůLJ Ĺ?Ĺś ŽŜÄž ŽĨ ŽƾĆŒ ĹŻĹ˝Ä?Ĺš ĨÄ‚Ä?Ĺ?ĹśĹ? ĆŒŽŽžĆ? ƚŽ ƚŚĞ Ć?ŽƾŜÄš ŽĨ ƚŚĞ Ç Ä‚ĆšÄžĆŒ ůĂƉƉĹ?ĹśĹ? Ĺ?ĞŜƚůLJ Ä‚Ä‚Ćš ƚŚĞ Ä?ŽƊŽž ŽĨ ƚŚĞ Ĺ?Ä‚ĆŒÄšÄžĹśÍ˜ Ćš ƚŚĞ Ä?ŽƊŽž ŽĨ ƚŚĞ Ĺ?Ä‚ĆŒÄšÄžĹśÍ˜ K KƉĞŜ Ä‚ĹŻĹŻ Ç‡ÄžÄ‚ĆŒ LJŽƾ Ä?Ä‚Ĺś Ä?Äž Ä?ÄžĆŒĆšÄ‚Ĺ?Ĺś ƚŚĂƚ Ä‚ Ç Ä‚ĆŒĹľ Ç ÄžĹŻÄ?ŽžÄž Ä‚Ç Ä‚Ĺ?ĆšĆ? LJŽƾ Ä‚Ćš ƾůĆšÄ?ĞĂ ,Ĺ˝ĆšÄžĹŻÍ˜ ƉĞŜ Ä‚ĹŻĹŻ Ç‡ÄžÄ‚ĆŒ LJŽƾ Ä?Ä‚Ĺś Ä?Äž Ä?ÄžĆŒĆšÄ‚Ĺ?Ĺś ƚŚĂƚ Ä‚ Ç Ä‚ĆŒĹľ Ç ÄžĹŻÄ?ŽžÄž Ä‚Ç Ä‚Ĺ?ĆšĆ? LJŽƾ Ä‚Ćš ƾůĆšÄ?ĞĂ ,Ĺ˝ĆšÄžĹŻÍ˜

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aurora winter 14_15 ad pages_Ad Pages 06/11/2014 10:56 Page 38

Close to all Orkney ferry ports Minutes from the Castle of Mey Quality Accommodation, all en-suite Open Fires Waarm Hospitality Complimentary Wifi access Private Coach Parking Great Food The Norseman Hotel 01955 603344 www.norsemanhotelwick.co.uk

The Castletown Hotel 01847 821656 www.castletownhotel.co.uk

34-39 Gairloch_Gairloch 11/17/14 11:28 AM Page 41

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There’s much to discover around Gairloch, from the golf club on the beach to Gairloch Heritage Centre and remote Rue Reidh lighthouse, which can be booked for holiday. An escape of just a few days there will whet your appetite for more. The diversity is extraordinary; discover walking trails in the newly planted pinewood at Loch Bad na Sclalag and the subtropical

paradise of Inverewe Garden and Estate on the shores of Loch Ewe. The lush refuge, founded in 1862 by Osgood Mackenzie and now cared for by the National Trust for Scotland, is warmed by the Gulf Stream and fondly known as The Oasis of the North. Step into the exquisite walled garden and, like Alice in Wonderland, prepare to be awestruck. £

Western wonders BEINN EIGHE

GAIRLOCH GOLF CLUB

Discover the mountain’s inspirational wildlife, geology and trails. www.nnnr-scotland.org.uk

It’ll be hard to keep your eye on the ball with so much scenery to admire. www.gairlochgolfclub.co.uk

BOAT TRIPS There are many to choose from – here are three sites to check. www.seawildlife.co.uk Hebridean Whale Cruises www.hebridean-whalecruises.co.uk Gairloch Marine Life Centre and Cruises www.porpoise-gairloch.co.uk

RUA REIDH LIGHTHOUSE, GAIRLOCH Stay here for breathtaking sea views.www.stayatalighthouse.co.uk

LOCH MAREE HOTEL

ATLANTIC BEARS

While making What We Did On Our Holiday several cast members stayed here, and so did Queen Victoria in 1877. www.lochmareehotel.com

If teddy bears are your thing, here’s where some great ones are made. www.atlanticbears.co.uk

INVEREWE GARDEN Explore this civilised Eden among the wilderness, pictured above. www.nts.org.uk/Property/InvereweGarden-and-Estate

BADACHRO INN Overlooking Isle Horrisdale on the south side of Loch Gairloch, there’s good food and a fine malt whisky collection at this beautifully situated inn. www.badachroinn.com

THE GAIRLOCH PANTRY This is the place for great coffee, delicious milkshakes and scrumptious whisky, honey and oatmeal ice cream. Check it out on Facebook.

TWO LOCHS RADIO News of the area broadcast from a cottage on the seashore. www.2lr.co.uk WHAT WE DID ON OUR HOLIDAY

CROFT 23 Go green with this sustainable B&B at South Erradale. www.croft23.co.uk

The home entertainment release of the film is scheduled for late January 2015.

BAD NA SGALAG

MOUNTAIN COFFEE HOUSE AND HILLBILLIES BOOKSTORE

An enjoyable circular walk through pinewood, pictured right, punctuated by lochs and waterfalls. www.walkhighlands.co.uk

Combine an independent bookshop with rare high mountain coffee and a bed for the night and you have a quirky attraction. Find it on Facebook.

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

40-41 Room Report_40-41 hotels 11/17/14 11:54 AM Page 42

ROOM REPORT

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Best of both WORLDS A STAY AT FOREST HOLIDAYS IN STRATHYRE WAS THE PERFECT WAY FOR NEIL BRAIDWOOD TO RECHARGE HIS BATTERIES WITH A MIX OF ADVENTURE AND RELAXATION

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T WASN’T DIFFICULT to sell the idea of a log cabin retreat to my family – for the boys, there was the prospect of adventure, in the shape of mountain bike rides through the woods. For the girls, a more relaxing agenda was on the cards, as the cabin had a hot tub attached. Of course, we couldn’t forget Ruby, our Springer Spaniel, who was very welcome in the cabins (some aren’t dog-friendly so check first). Forest Holidays have two locations in Scotland – Argyll and Strathyre. It was to the latter we were headed, to spend a September weekend in one of a cluster of high-quality cabins next to Loch Lubnaig, just north of Callander. As far as outdoor locations go, the Strathyre cabins take some beating. Ben Ledi towers above the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park with its walks and wildlife, and National Cycle Route 7 runs past our door. There’s canoeing on the loch, and Callander’s shops and restaurants are just a few miles away. Once checked in at the Forest Retreat reception, • WINTER 2014/15

where there’s a café and a well-stocked shop, we set out to explore our surroundings. You can’t park right outside your cabin, so there’s a wee bit of a walk, but this keeps the complex relatively car-free and safe. Our cabin is pretty compact, but full of light due to the huge windows, so it feels spacious and airy. All mod-cons are in evidence, including dishwasher and TV.

Relieved WiFi had not yet reached our Strathyre cabins, though it has since been installed. Its absence disappointed our teenage children Ella and Charlie, but I felt strangely relieved to be disconnected from the world in this way. After all, we had come on holiday to relax, not get stressed by emails and social media. We had booked bikes in advance, and went to collect these near the Retreat. They were pretty well used and required a bit of tinkering, but off we set along the gloriously car-free cycle route, feeling free and invigorated. The path is mainly flat and follows

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The Forest Holidays experience can include canoeing, wildlife and lots of taking it easy

Forest facts the loch up to Strathyre, some seven miles north. Ruby came too, bounding alongside us, revelling in this new form of exercise. We had brought our own evening meal, but while it cooked in the oven, my wife Maureen and I relaxed over a pint of draught Peroni in the Retreat’s bar. Ruby was allowed in, too, and was spoiled with dog biscuits. Later, with dinner over, it was time to test out our hot tub on the veranda. We had already heard our neighbours’ squeals of delight as they sampled the Jacuzzi bubbles, (and some other bubbles, if the popping corks were anything to go by), so we slipped into our swimming costumes and took the plunge. Having never experienced a hot tub in the outdoors, I was pleasantly surprised. It was fun – four of us up to our necks in warm water with the stars overhead and owls hooting in the trees.

“Our cabin is full of light and feels spacious and airy”

Quirky Next morning, we lined up for our nature trek with resident ranger Jack Black. Jack, (pictured above) is a great character, local to the area, with 30 years in the forces under his belt, and a healthy respect for the natural world. He led us along the lochside, pointing out plants and explaining their uses and history. His infectious giggle had us all laughing at times. He leads twilight walks, too, which sound exciting. We visited a great restaurant in the evening – the Mhor 84 – a kind of quirky Scottish motel with a twist a few miles to the north. With delicious food, great beers and a lively atmosphere, once you get settled you don’t want to leave. There’s even a games room for kids, with a pool table and an X Box. Once back at the cabin, we realise how dark it is, and stay out on the veranda counting the stars. It’s impossible, so we turn in for the night. Our weekend in the forest leaves us re-energised, and feeling like we’ve been away for much longer. Luxury in the outback – this might just catch on… £

Forest Holidays have nine sites in the UK. Two are in Scotland – the one where Neil Braidwood stayed, near Strathyre, on the shore of Loch Lubnaig in Perthshire, and one at Ardgarten on the shore of Loch Long in Argyll. See www.forestholidays.co.uk There are three types of cabin to choose from. Golden Oak cabins, which have two or three bedrooms, have an outdoor hot tub and logburning stove. They sleep 4-6 and tend to be in the best spots. Silver Birch cabins, which also have two or three bedrooms and sleep 4-6, also have a hot tub. And if the hot tub is not important to you, Copper Beech cabins, which have two bedrooms and sleep 4, are a good value option. The Forest Retreat, which acts as the hub of the Strathyre site, is a café, bar, shop and reception centre where staff can arrange activities for you, including ranger-led walks and cycle hire. Attractions close to the Strathyre site include the Rob Roy Story in Callander, where an audio-visual presentation tells the story of the legendary clan leader, and Go Ape, a zip-wire course in the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park.

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

aurora winter 14_15 ad pages_Ad Pages 05/11/2014 18:48 Page 42

43-49 Essentials_43-49 essentials 05/11/2014 18:36 Page 43

Essentials WHETHER YOU’RE A BUSINESS TRAVELLER OR A TOURIST, VISITING FAMILY OR GOING TO A MEETING, OUR HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS AIRPORTS GUIDE WILL POINT YOU TO THE BEST FOOD, ACCOMMODATION AND TRANSPORT LINKS

Sumburgh

Kirkwall Baile na h-Eaglais Stornoway Stornoway Steòrnabhagh Benbecula Beinn nam Fadhla W ick/John O’Groats Wick/John Inbhir Uige/T aigh Iain Ghròt Uige/Taigh

Barra Baraigh

Inverness Inverness Inbhir Nis

Tiree Tiree Tiriodh Tiriodh Dundee Dùn Dè Islay Islay Ile Campbeltown Ceann Loch

• WINTER 2014/15

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

43-49 Essentials_43-49 essentials 11/17/14 11:38 AM Page 46

ESSENTIALS

Barra

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FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Call Barra Car Hire, 01871 890313, or MacMillan Self Drive, 01871 890366 before you arrive. Taxi: Book with Barra Island Taxis, 01871 810012, or J Campbell, 01871 810216. Bus: Runs between the airport and Castlebay. Details from R MacMillan, 01871 890366; H MacNeil, 01871 810262; cne-siar.gov.uk.

PHOTOGRAPH: EANDJSFILMCREW

BON APPETIT

SPOTLIGHT Boston Airport As New England’s main entry point, Logan International Airport, to give it its full name, generates about $7 billion of economic activity a year. It’s the 19th busiest airport in the US and is easily reached from Inverness via Dublin.

FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire:

Options include Avis, Enterprise, Hertz and Thrifty, all of which operate from the Rental Car Centre on Transportation Way.

Taxi:

Cabs are in plentiful supply outside the airport, or for a fun alternative you can take a free shuttle bus to Logan Dock and then a water taxi downtown.

Metro:

Boston’s subway, the first in the US, is cheap and easy. A free shuttle bus takes you to the airport subway station, on the Blue Line.

NIGHTCAP Boston Beer Works is a great place to relax, while the Harpoon Tap Room offers some of the city’s micro-brews.

BON APPETIT Bonfire, part of celebrated chef Todd English’s empire, combines Argentine, European and American steakhouse influences, with flavoursome results. Vineyard Grille sticks to American cuisine, with the emphasis on seafood. Dine Boston, the brainchild of Red Sox hero Darren Lewis, aims to showcase the tastes of New England.

PILLOW TALK The Hyatt Boston Harbor hotel has gorgeous waterfront views, a fitness centre and a restaurant and lounge overlooking the city skyline.

30 1,700 33 12 4 In numbers

INTERNATIONAL DESTINATIONS

ACRE FOOTPRINT OF LAND

The CASTLEBAY HOTEL uses the best of Barra produce. Call 01871 810223 or see castlebayhotel.com.

NIGHTCAP The HEATHBANK BAR is in a former church whose thick walls enclose a bright bar with fine views. Northbay, 01871 890266, barrahotel.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK Britain’s most westerly hotel, the ISLE OF BARRA BEACH HOTEL, looks over the sands of Tangasdale Beach, and makes the most of the island’s fine lamb and fish. 01871 810383, isleofbarrahotel.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST Once you’ve landed, you’ve already seen the most famous sight – the beach landing strip. KISIMUL CASTLE is seat of the Clan MacNeil, and don’t miss the deserted village of BALNABODACH. The island is ideal for walking, cycling and wildlife watching.

MILLION PASSENGERS A YEAR

THOUSAND EMPLOYEES

TERMINALS

Benbecula FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Try Ask Car Hire, 01870 602818; Autotec, 01878 710266; or Laing Motors, 01878 700267.Taxi: Book from Benbecula Taxis, 01870 602464, or MacVicar’s, 01870 603197. Bus: A regular service takes you to points all over Benbecula, North Uist and South Uist. For details see cne-siar.gov.uk/travel.

43-49 Essentials_43-49 essentials 05/11/2014 18:36 Page 45

BON APPETIT STEPPING STONES is popular for its delicious fare such as brochette of king scallops. Balivanich, 01870 603377.

NIGHTCAP Good selections of ales, wines and whiskies can be found at DARK ISLAND HOTEL, Liniclate, 01870 603030; ISLE OF BENBECULA HOUSE HOTEL, Creagorry, 01870 602024, isleshotelgroup.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK LIONACLEIT GUESTHOUSE is comfortable and set on a croft, with seven rooms for B&B guests and two self-catering cottages. 01870 602176, lionacleit-guesthouse.com. At KYLES FLODDA, a modern B&B overlooking North Uist, you’re well placed to explore nature. See kylesflodda.com. LANGASS LODGE at Loch Eport, North Uist, offers comfort and great cooking, using local game and seafood with garden herbs. 01876 580285, langasslodge.co.uk. On South Uist, the 18thcentury POLOCHAR INN makes great use of local ingredients, and is in a great

setting with an ancient standing stone. 01878 700215, polocharinn.com

BE A TOURIST The scenery, flora and fauna are spectacular so bring boots, camera and binoculars. The white beaches, lochs and hills calm the most troubled souls. Causeways link the island to North and South Uist.

WHAT’S ON Poet and novelist CHRISTINE DE LUCA gives a reading at Taigh Chearsabhagh on 27 November. At the same venue, Uist Arts Association’s winter exhibition runs until January, and on 26 January the UIST WRITERS’ GROUP takes song lyrics as the theme for its poetry evening, also at Taigh Chearsabhagh.

Campbeltown FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Call Burbank Garage, 01586 544480, or Campbeltown Motor Co, 01586 552030. Taxi: Call Fona Taxi, 01586 554001; Roy’s Taxis, 01586

554625; Tavi’s Taxis, 01586 551122; Kintyre Connect Minibus Service, 07825 091502 or 07984 634824. Bus: Book ring-and-ride bus from airport by calling West Coast Motors, 01586 552319.

excellent BON APPETIT brasserie offers tempting dishes such as grilled red mullet with fennel and orange dressing and beetroot puree. Exchange Street, 01382 809000, bonappetit-dundee.com.

BON APPETIT

NIGHTCAP

DALNASPIDAL is a great place to stay and serves a mix of Scottish and South African dishes. Dalnaspidal Guest House, Tangy, 01586 820466, dalnaspidal-guesthouse.com.

The SPEEDWELL TAVERN, aka Mennie’s, has a fine Edwardian interior and many whiskies. Perth Road, 01382 667783, speedwell-bar.co.uk.

NIGHTCAP

Looking over the waterfront, the APEX is a modern comfort zone with a spa. West Victoria Dock Road, 0845 365 0000, apexhotels.co.uk.

BURNSIDE BAR is friendly and traditional. Burnside Square, 01586 552306.

PILLOW TALK CRAIGARD HOUSE, an Italianate-style building, is a classy place to stay. Low Askomil, 01586 554242, craigard-house.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST The Mull of Kintyre gave its name to the UK’s biggestselling single. The record, featuring Campbeltown Pipe Band, was Paul McCartney’s love song to the area, which has many attractions. Walkers will like the KINTYRE WAY, where the view changes with every step, taking in Ireland, Islay, Jura and Arran. The glorious CAMPBELTOWN PICTURE HOUSE, soon to be restored, is the oldest cinema in Scotland. MACHRIHANISH golf course is one of the best. .

Dundee

FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Avis, Arnold Clark, Alamo and Europcar all serve the airport – call 01382 662200. Taxi: Booking in advance is advised. Call Tele Taxis on 01382 669333 or 50 50 50 Taxis on 01382 505050. Train: For destinations and times call 08457 484950 or see nationalrail.co.uk.

BON APPETIT

Looking south-west over Dundee and the Firth of Tay

The SHIP INN at Broughty Ferry has great fish and meat dishes, plus fine views. Fisher Street, 01382 779176. The

PILLOW TALK

BE A TOURIST Whether you want to shop, enjoy art, or go sightseeing, this city is for you. The OVERGATE SHOPPING CENTRE is a great place to browse, DCA (Dundee Contemporary Arts) has an ever-changing programme of exhibitions and a great café. For maritime history visit Captain Scott’s ship, the RRS DISCOVERY, or HM FRIGATE UNICORN, the oldest Britishbuilt ship still afloat. The SENSATION science centre, with its 60 hands-on exhibits, will excite youngsters’ curiosity.

WHAT’S ON The McManus presents A SILVERED LIGHT, an exhibition of Scottish art photography, until 4 January. At DCA, US artist JIM CAMPBELL has his first solo exhibition from 22 November to 25 January. Catch DEACON BLUE at the Caird Hall on 4 December and THE VIEW on 12 December at the same venue. The RSNO will performing The Snowman there on 19 December and DYLAN MORAN brings his new stand-up show to the hall on 4 March. The hall welcomes STRICTLY COME DANCING’S ANTON & ERIN with their new production on 19 February. At Dundee Rep, Roald Dahl’s JAMES AND THE GIANT PEACH will keep all ages entertained from 27 November until 31 December.

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Inverness FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Options include Avis, 0844 544 6017, Europcar, 01667 460000, and Arnold Clark, 0845 607 4500. Taxi: Book with Inverness Taxis on 01463 222900. See inverness-taxis.co.uk. Bus: Airport bus goes to the city centre for £3.20 single. Stagecoachbus.com or 01463 239292 for other routes. Train: Nearest stations are Inverness and Nairn. See scotrail.com for times.

BON APPETIT The MUSTARD SEED in Fraser Street is rightly busy. CAFE1 in Castle Street puts the emphasis on seafood and quality cuts. RIVER HOUSE RESTAURANT, a bright establishment on Greig Street looking over the Ness, impresses by using resources of the region. THE KITCHEN, in Huntly Street, also with fine river views, is deservedly popular.

NIGHTCAP NUMBER 27 in Castle Street, is a bright bar with beers you may not have tried before, served by friendly staff. Folkies, ceilidh bands and comedy can all be enjoyed at HOOTANANNY’S in Church Street. By day the FOUNDRY in Church Street is a relaxing café. After 8pm it does a brisk trade in beers, wines and cocktails.

PILLOW TALK Luxury is the order of the day at ROCPOOL RESERVE, but it’s not beyond affordable. Culduthel Road, 01463 240089, rocpool.com. The KINGSMILLS HOTEL, set elegantly in four acres of gardens, offers family rooms and two-bedroom, twobathroom apartments. Look out for a thank you letter from Robert Burns, who stayed here in 1787. The leisure club and spa will revitalise you. Culcabock Road, 01463

237166, kingsmillshotel.com. The ROYAL HIGHLAND HOTEL has been much-loved for over a century and a half. In the middle of town, it’s Victorian splendour at its best. Station Square, 01463 251451, royalhighlandhotel.co.uk. TRAFFORD BANK GUEST HOUSE, once home to a bishop, is a delightful place to stay. Each bedroom has a mix of antique and modern furniture. Fairfield Road, 01463 241414, traffordbankguesthouse.co.uk. The luxurious CASTLE STUART, close to Inverness Airport, is a 17th-century tower in its own private grounds. 01463 790745, castlestuart.com.

BE A TOURIST This wonderful city offers delightful RIVERSIDE WALKS and is an enjoyable place to shop. The hinterland is studded with castles and distilleries, many of which offer whisky tastings. The FLORAL HALL is an oasis of peace. Take a boat trip on LOCH NESS to search for the monster, visit nearby BRODIE CASTLE or CAWDOR CASTLE, wander on CULLODEN MOOR, where the Jacobite Rising was crushed in 1746. Equally atmospheric are the prehistoric CLAVA CAIRNS, a group of burial mounds in unspoilt woodland.

WHAT’S ON Enjoy some fantastic sounds at the MG Alba Scots TRAD MUSIC AWARDS Ceremony and Gala Concert at Eden Court on 13 December. The Christmas pantomime ALADDIN is at the same venue from 2 December-4 January, with resurgent rockers DEACON BLUE on 5 December and saucy comic CRAIG HILL on 14 February. At the Ironworks, a winter showcase featuring WE CAME FROM THE NORTH and ATLAS is lined up for 27 December. Inverness Town House will be hosting the KALEIDOSCOPE

SAXOPHONE QUARTET on 13 January and on Hogmanay the RED HOT HIGHLAND FLING at the Northern Meeting Park features Craig Hill and the Red Hot Chilli Pipers. Kingussie, in Strathspey, holds its FOOD ON FILM festival, which is a really unusual and multi-stranded event involving tastings, classes, food-related film shows and more, from 5-8 February. In Glen Affric, WINTERFEST is a festival of walking and much more, from 6-8 February.

Islay FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Booking in advance is advisable, with Islay Car Hire on 01496 810544 or D and N Mackenzie on 01496 302324. Taxi: Call Carol MacDonald Taxis on 01496 302155, Fiona’s Taxis on 01496 301622, Lamont’s Taxis on 01496 810449 or Rhinns Taxis on 01496 850170. Bus: Most places on the island are linked by B Mundell’s bus. Call 01496 840274 or ask at information desk.

BON APPETIT The HARBOUR INN serves beef, lamb and seafood with style, in a scenic setting. Bowmore, 01496 810330, harbour-inn.com.

NIGHTCAP There’s a superb choice of malt whiskies at the LOCHSIDE HOTEL. Bowmore, 01496 810244, lochsidehotel.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK Charming rooms, great food and a beautiful location make the PORT CHARLOTTE HOTEL a great place to stay. 01496 850360, portcharlottehotel.co.uk. Friendly, historic, handy for all parts of the island, the BRIDGEND HOTEL is committed to local produce. 01496 810212, info@bridgend-hotel.com. AN TAIGH-OSDA is a cool hotel in Bruichladdich, overlooking

Loch Indaal. 01496 850587, antaighosda.co.uk. KILMENY COUNTRY HOUSE is a small luxury hotel near Port Askaig. Occupying a great vantage point, it is set within woods and farmland. There are four colour-themed bedrooms and a suite. 01496 840668, kilmeny.co.uk. COILLABUS ECO DWELLINGS are two luxury cottages on the wild Oa peninsula. Each sleeps four and has a hand-made hot tub. Built with reclaimed wood and stone, the cottages have turfed roofs. 01852 200565, coillabus.com. The ISLAY HOTEL, in Port Ellen, has been rebuilt, and its pristine white walls shine out over the harbour, while the wood inside is warm and welcoming. Call 01496 300109. The OLD EXCISE HOUSE at Laphroaig is comfy, historic, welcoming – and walking distance from three distilleries. 01496 302567, theoldexcisehouse.com. The ISLAND BEAR, on the main street in Bowmore, is a recent, very tasteful addition to the island’s B&B options. 01496 810375, islandbear.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST Islay is much less crowded and commercial than, say, Skye or Mull, yet its attractions are just as powerful. Not least is its status as a stronghold of whisky making, and all eight DISTILLERIES are open to visitors at various times. The island is a superb destination for walkers, anglers and birdwatchers. Autumn is the time to see geese by their tens of thousands – barnacle, brent, white-fronted, greylag and others. For a historical day out, it’s hard to beat FINLAGGAN, the ancient seat of the Lords of the Isles, and though the buildings are ruins, the site, beside a beautiful loch, is atmospheric. The ISLAY WOOLLEN MILL, at Bridgend, made the Highland tweed gear sported by Mel Gibson and Liam Neeson in their historical epics. Its shop is well worth a visit. 01496 810563, islaywoollenmill.co.uk. The

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Stromness holds its CHRISTMAS OPEN exhibition from 22 November until Christmas Eve. The Cromarty Hall at St Margaret’s Hope hosts a Christmas BAZAAR on 6 and 7 December.

Stornoway FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Carhire Hebrides has its fleet based at the airport. Call 01851 706500 or see carhire-hebrides.co.uk. Taxi: Order from Castle Cabs, 01851 704636, before your arrival, pick one up at the terminal or call airport information, 01851 702256. Bus: Hourly service to town centre, Monday to Saturday. Visit cne-siar.gov.uk/travel. A sunny day to arrive at Inverness Airport

MUSEUM OF ISLAY LIFE, at Port Charlotte, has exhibits dating from 8000BC to the 20th century and countless books and pictures. 01496 850358, islaymuseum.org.

the owner hails from, and this bright restaurant sticks to its roots, with the emphasis on good, fresh ingredients. 31-33 Victoria Street, Kirkwall, 01856 875687, lucanokirkwall.com.

WHAT’S ON

NIGHTCAP

If cycling is your thing, the splendidly named VELO CLUB D’ARDBEG holds a ride every Sunday, leaving from outside the minimarket at Bruichladdich at 10am.

HELGI’S is Viking-inspired and very tasteful, with its slate floor, wood panelling and cosy atmosphere. A great place to enjoy real ale, good coffee and home baking. Albert Street, 01856 879293.

Kirkwall FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Call WR Tullock on 01856 875500. Taxi: Call Bob’s Taxis on 01856 876543, Craigies Taxis on 01856 878787, George’s Taxis on 07541 034830 or Stromness Taxis on 01856 852852. Bus: The Jet bus operated by Stagecoach in Orkney runs all day – for times call the firm on 01856 870555 or the airport information desk on 01856 886210. See stagecoachbus. com for other Orkney routes.

BON APPETIT LUCANO is named after Lucania, southern Italy, where

PILLOW TALK At historic WOODWICK HOUSE if you want a walk in the woods or on the beach, both are yards away. Evie, 01856 751330, woodwickhouse.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST Kirkwall is enjoyable to wander around, with a busy harbour, narrow streets, lively pubs and the stately ST MAGNUS CATHEDRAL. Further afield, renowned archaeological wonders vie for attention. Perhaps the best of all is the prehistoric village of SKARA BRAE, with its perfectly intact shelves and doorways. Also stunning is the chambered tomb of

BON APPETIT MAESHOWE, with its passage carefully aligned so that the winter solstice sun shines through it to illuminate the chamber. The RING OF BRODGAR is up there with Callanish and Stonehenge in the standing stones league table, and the BROUGH OF BIRSAY, a tidal island rich in Norse ruins and birdlife, is an unforgettable place. The Neolithic TOMB OF THE EAGLES on South Ronaldsay is also worth a visit – you slide in on a large homemade skateboard. Just as intriguing is the ornate ITALIAN CHAPEL, painted by Italian prisoners during the Second World War. ORKNEY BREWERY, where beers such as Dark Island and Skull Splitter are made for a growing tribe of fans, is well worth a visit, with tours of the brewhouse and fermentation rooms and a nice café.

WHAT’S ON Take part in THE BA’, the timehonoured street ball game, on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day – or just watch, if you prefer, as it’s distinctly rough. On Hogmanay, street celebrations include a parade by the KIRKWALL PIPE BAND. The Pier Arts Centre in

At the elegant PARK RESTAURANT you might start with seafood filo baskets, moving on to Lewis lamb shank and spicy mint couscous. 30 James Street, 01851 702485, theparkguesthouse.co.uk. Booking is essential at DIGBY CHICK restaurant, which has two menus – one for early birds, and an à la carte from 7pm. Expect ultra-fresh ingredients, expertly prepared. 5 Bank Street, 01851 700026, digbychick.co.uk. AN LANNTAIR is a thriving arts centre with workshops, a cinema and gallery. The restaurant and bar overlooks the harbour, and serves food from 10am till late. Kenneth Street, 01851 703307, lanntair.com.

NIGHTCAP MCNEILLS is a cosy bar with live music. 11 Cromwell Street, 01851 703330. The STAR INN is small but has a good selection of spirits. 13 South Beach, 01851 702289.

PILLOW TALK BROAD BAY HOUSE, a fine guesthouse, is at Back, on the coast seven miles north of Stornoway. Its spacious rooms, furnished in solid oak, have wi-fi and iPod docks. You’ll find a

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tray with wine, biscuits, fruit, water and a stamped postcard to send home. 01851 820990, broadbayhouse.co.uk. The three-star CABARFEIDH HOTEL, about a mile from the town centre, scores highly for its cuisine and service. It also has good facilities for business guests. Manor Park, Perceval Road South, 01851 702604, cabarfeidh-hotel.co.uk. HOLM VIEW GUEST HOUSE is minutes from the airport. This four-star, five-bedroom house has splendid sea views and a host who goes out of his way to ensure that guests enjoy their stay. 18 Rathad na Bhraighe, 01851 706826. BRAIGHE HOUSE, overlooking the sea just a few minutes from the airport, has five immaculate bedrooms and the breakfast menu has the Braighe House Stack – Stornoway black pudding topped with bacon, potato scone and a free-range poached egg. 20 Braighe Road, 01851 705287, braighehouse.co.uk.

A peaceful Stornoway street scene

Thursday. On 6 December, the STORNOWAY LIFEBOAT LADIES GUILD holds its Christmas Fayre at the Retirement Centre, Bayhead.

Sumburgh FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Call Star Rent-a-Car on 01950 460444. Taxi: Call Boddam Cabs on 01950 460111, J & I Taxis on 01950 422207 or Allied Taxis on 01595 690069. Bus: A regular airport bus takes you to Lerwick in about 40 minutes. Call John Leask & Sons on 01565 693162.

BE A TOURIST Stornoway is a great place to relax and explore. Spend time at the harbour, watching the fishermen unload their catches – which you could be eating in a couple of hours. Be sure to see CALLANISH, one of Britain’s most magical places. No-one knows the exact purpose of these ancient standing stones, but their power is undeniable. Nearby, DUN CARLOWAY BROCH is a magnificent Iron Age tower you can explore.

BON APPETIT BUSTA HOUSE deserves its reputation among foodies. Busta, 01806 522506, bustahouse.com. The SCALLOWAY HOTEL twins stunning waterfront views with a high-quality menu that makes a feature of Shetland’s excellent seafood. Main Street, Scalloway, 01595 880444, scallowayhotel.co.uk.

WHAT’S ON An Lanntair’s exhibition on the Great War, GAIRM NAN GAIDHEAS/CALL OF THE GAEL, runs until 7 December. The venue hosts the panto JACK AND THE BEANSTALK from 14-17 January, and welcomes comedian CRAIG HILL on 20 February. If you prefer to be in the spotlight yourself, there’s a star slot awaiting you in the open mic night at MCNEILL’S every

NIGHTCAP THE LOUNGE is a busy pub in Lerwick, good for live music as well as popular quizzes. Mounthooly Street, 01595 692231

PILLOW TALK The 32-room SUMBURGH HOTEL, very handy for the airport, is friendly and comfortable. 01950 460394, sumburghhotel.com.

BE A TOURIST Beside the airport is one of Shetland’s principal sights – JARLSHOF. It contains remains from 2,500BC up to the 17th century, making it a fascinating place to visit. MOUSA BROCH is the best preserved Pictish tower in the country. WILDLIFE is a Shetland strong suit, with Arctic skuas, great northern divers and killer whales among species to spot. On Yell the SHETLAND GALLERY aims to showcase the islands’ best contemporary art.

WHAT’S ON The leading wildlife film-maker DOUG ALLAN talks about Life Behind The Lens at MAREEL on 4 December, and on 12 December the venue hosts a Hip Hopity Christmas Show by the INFERNO DANCE GROUP. The Bonhoga Gallery has an exhibition of DON MCCULLIN photographs called Fallen, from 29 November to 22 February. Looking further ahead, comic DYLAN MORAN is due at MAREEL on 5 March.

Tiree FROM THE AIRPORT Car and bike hire: Call MacLennans, 01879 220555. Taxi: Order from John Kennedy Taxis, 01879 220419. Bus: The on-demand dial-a-bus is on 01879 220419.

BON APPETIT CEABAR is a guest house with a very popular restaurant commanding great sunset views. Booking advised. 01879 220684, ceabar.com.

NIGHTCAP The TIREE LODGE HOTEL is a popular, often lively pub at Gott Bay, 01879 220368.

PILLOW TALK ROCKVALE GUEST HOUSE is a friendly, comfortable place to stay, with a lovely, bright lounge. 01879 220675, rockvaletiree.co.uk. The charming SCARINISH HOTEL offers simple, beautifully cooked food. After eating, relax in the Lean To bar. 01879 220308, tireescarinishhotel.com. KIRKAPOL HOUSE is a converted Victorian church beside the sea. The hosts are happy to collect guests from the airport and will supply packed lunches. 01879 220729, kirkapoltiree.co.uk.

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BE A TOURIST AN IODHLANN is the island’s historical centre and the place to shed light on your Tiree ancestry. See aniodhlann.co.uk or call 01879 220793. The RINGING STONE is a boulder that makes a metallic clang when hit with another stone. DUN MOR, at Vaul, is a broch, or place of refuge, built in about 60AD. Tiree is one of the UK’s windiest places, and also among the sunniest and most beautiful, with white, sandy beaches. See isleoftiree.com.

Wick John O’Groats FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Book with Dunnetts Garage on 01955 602103, Richards Garage on 01955 604123, Europcar on 01667 462052 or National Car Hire on 01463 238084. Taxi: Call Jimmy’s Taxis on 01955 602727, Johnnie’s Taxis on 01955 605041 or Millers Taxis on 01955 606464. Bus: Stagecoach 82 and 182 buses stop at the airport, providing connections to Wick and Thurso. The 25X links Wick with Inverness. For times see stagecoachbus.com or call 01463 239292. Train: Wick station is 1.5 miles from the airport, with trains to Thurso and Inverness and stations between.

BON APPETIT The CAPTAIN’S GALLEY, a superb seafood restaurant with a loyal following, serves the best local produce in a converted ice house and bothy. The Harbour, Scrabster, 01847 894999, captainsgalley.co.uk.

cosy former coaching inn in Lybster. 01593 721721.

PILLOW TALK The QUAYSIDE B&B is friendly and every room has a harbour view. Harbour Quay, 01955 603229, quaysidewick.fsnet.co.uk. If you want to go dramatically upmarket, ACKERGILL TOWER is spectacular and stands beside a secluded beach in a huge estate. NATURAL RETREATS at John O’Groats is very special indeed.

BE A TOURIST WICK HERITAGE MUSEUM has won awards for its displays on the town’s history as a fishing port and centre for glass-making and distilling. CAITHNESS HORIZONS, in Thurso, is a must-visit museum, with much to see and regular events. TIMESPAN, in Helmsdale, is a superb attraction loved by genealogists and casual visitors alike. The lovely CASTLE OF MEY has ornate turrets and walled garden. The FLOW COUNTRY, Europe’s biggest blanket bog, is a striking landscape, with a bleak appearance but a wealth of birdlife. Ruined CASTLE SINCLAIR GIRNIGOE is a fine sight.

WHAT’S ON Caithness Horizons in Thurso has an exhibitiion of work by LOCAL ARTISTS throughout December and January, and a Christmas Market on 6 December. Timespan has a talk on the RSPB’s FORSINARD FLOWS reserve on 25 November, and a Christmas storytelling event on 13 December.

HEATHROW CONNECTIONS

Need to get to Heathrow? It’s easy via airports reached from Inverness and Dundee. Times and prices are a guide.

From Luton A pre-booked taxi from Prestige Airport Cars takes 50 minutes, and costs from £55. A National Express coach takes from 55 minutes and costs from £22.90.

From Gatwick A pre-booked taxi from Prestige Airport Cars takes 45 minutes, from £45. A National Express coach takes 1 hour 5 minutes and costs from £25.

From London Stansted An hourly National Express coach runs directly from London Stansted to Heathrow, taking 1 hour 20 minutes, and tickets can be bought at a ticket desk in the airport, at the bus station or on the coach. Fare from £26.80.

From London City A pre-booked taxi from Riverside Cars takes 1 hour 15 minutes, from £50. To transfer to Heathrow via Docklands Light Railway (DLR) to Canning Town, Jubilee line tube to Green Park and Piccadilly line tube costs £5.30 and takes 1 hour 40 minutes. Or take the DLR to Canning Town, Jubilee line tube to Baker Street, Bakerloo line tube to Paddington (1 hour) then Heathrow Express, which leaves Paddington every 15 minutes and takes 15 minutes to reach Heathrow. This costs a total of £24.30.

Contact prestigeairportcars.co.uk / 03331 231818 riversidecarslondon.com / 020 7231 7766 nationalexpress.com / 08717 818181 For train and tube information see tfl.gov.uk

NIGHTCAP The ALEXANDER BAIN, named after the Wick man who invented the electric clock, is a bright, roomy bar, serving a good choice of ales and bar meals. 01955 609920. The PORTLAND ARMS is an atmospheric and

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Eddi Reader THIS SINGER LIKES BURNS POEMS BETTER THAN BURNS SUPPERS – BUT SHE HAS MUCH ELSE TO LOOK FORWARD TO

F

OR ME THERE’S always an edge about winter. Autumn is like a warning that it’s going to get really cold. You get beautiful days, but you know it’ll lead to this darker period, and if we didn’t have things like Christmas and Celtic Connections to look forward to we’d be cooried in trying to get through it. I’m a person who’d like to be outdoors but stays in the house. I get up and think “I’m going walking” and end up washing the dishes. There’s been 20-odd years of Celtic Connections and I remember seven-yearolds at my gigs clapping along to Willie Stewart, and they’re now in bands themselves. What this festival has done is to give us a confidence in our own culture, and that’s kind of sneaked up on us. This time at Celtic Connections I’d like to involve some more orchestration, and I’m thinking I might lean it towards Scottish song. I discovered all these old Scottish songs when my uncle died and I had to clear out his house. There was tons of music from the Twenties and Thirties and before, so I’m going through it and seeing if any of it hits me in the heart. When I left Scotland at the end of the

• WINTER 2014/15

Seventies there was nothing here for someone like me. There was no focus on the cultural aspects of Scotland, but I came back to find young people who knew more about Scotland than I ever did. I love Robert Burns, but I’ve not been to many Burns Suppers. When I was growing up I thought Burns was not for the likes of me, from a council estate, so to find out that he was one of my kind was a revelation. In the past 12 years I have discovered a path to Scotland, through Robert Burns. I’ve got Tam o’ Shanter pinned up in my toilet so that I can read it every time I’m in there. I have some other things I’m working on. I’m hoping to write a kind of autobiography-stroke-discovery-of-my-past, a kind of Who Do You Think You Are? in novel form. I’m chipping away and I’m hoping there’ll be a book at the end of it. £ Eddi Reader plays at Glasgow Royal Concert Hall on 20 January as part of Celtic Connections. In December, she appears with Phil Cunningham at Glasgow City Hall on 18, Edinburgh Queen’s Hall on 19 and 20, Perth Concert Hall on 21 and Aberdeen Music Hall on 22.

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