Summer 2013 by Aurora Magazine

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Bavarian

beauty SUMMER 2013 ISSUE

OUR TEN-POINT GUIDE TO MUST-SEE MUNICH

Wave hello

Sky high

My summer

STAND-UP ACT A surfing beach right beside the airport? No, of course that’s not too much to ask

AIR TIME For two tall men in a small plane, stunning Hebridean views make any discomfort well worthwhile

RACHEL SERMANNI How Scotland’s busiest singer is looking forward to a lovely rest – and then some more shows

A LUXURY STAY FOR TWO AT THE PUTECHAN HOTEL

October Sunshine Getaways, flying from Inverness

Portofino, Florence & Tuscany

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Portofino, Florence & Tuscany Half-Board and Included Excursions

£200

Based in one of Tuscany’s most celebrated spa resorts, this wonderful holiday includes unforgettable excursions to the famous resorts of Santa Margherita and Portofino, and to exquisite Florence.

per couple *

Departs 5 October 2013 The French Riviera

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The French Riviera This wonderful week-long holiday offers plenty of time to relax and enjoy the glorious surroundings of the Côte D’Azur, and to join some wonderful optional excursions taken in the company of our friendly, knowledgeable tour manager.

£200 per couple *

Save

8 days WAS £789 NOW from £689pp

Departs 5 October 2013 Mount Etna, Taormina & the Treasures of Sicily

£200

8 days WAS £599 NOW from £499pp

Mount Etna, Taormina & the Treasures of Sicily Half-Board and Included Excursions Experience the treasures of this very special island, with three included full day escorted tours. Discover the centuries-old island capital Palermo, the glories of Monreale’s great monastery, the beauty of Taormina and the ruins at Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples.

per couple *

Departs 7 October 2013

8 days WAS £875 NOW from £775pp

Lake Garda

Lake Garda Experience the magical shores of Italy’s most popular lake, enjoying a stay in a choice of delightful resorts, the chance to rest and relax, and to join some wonderful, wellpriced excursions.

Departs 6 October 2013

www.newmarketholidays.co.uk These holidays are organised by Newmarket Air Holidays Ltd. ABTA V7812. ATOL protected 2325. Subject to availability. Single supplements apply. Calls cost 4p per minute. * Savings based on 1st edition brochure prices published 1st August 2012. Offer subject to availability & may be withdrawn at any time.

8 days from £577pp

0843 316 1166

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CONTRIBUTORS NIKOLA MOSSOP

Brought up in Gretna, Nikola spent her childhood enjoying the countryside most weekends – and managed to carry on doing that while studying, ﬁrstly theology at Glasgow University and then, as a postgraduate, magazine publishing at Edinburgh Napier University. She has a passion for music – especially Motown and Britpop, which she used to play to patients while volunteering at the Hospital Broadcasting Service in Glasgow. A recent addition to the aurora team, she gets into the groove with a lively travel feature on Munich.

WELCOME … to the summer issue of aurora, the award-winning magazine for all customers of Highlands and Islands Airports. We operate 11 airports – Barra, Benbecula, Campbeltown, Dundee, Inverness, Islay, Kirkwall, Stornoway, Sumburgh, Tiree and Wick John O’Groats – and we

PADDY WITHAMS

As a keen snowboarder and aspiring journalist, Paddy was lucky enough to land an internship at Onboard, a bilingual boarding magazine based in Germany. He reported on an event in Austria, wrote product reviews and practised his photography. He returned to finish his degree in philosophy and English literature at Glasgow University, and is now looking to spread his wings. Fittingly, he has written us a vivid account of a sunny day spent flying around the Hebrides in a light aircraft. He’s a keen photographer and brought us some fine aerial shots of Islay and Tiree. SUSAN WRIGHT

A great lover of the outdoors, Susan has what might just be the ideal job – communications manager for the John Muir Trust, named after the Dunbar-born environmentalist seen as the founder of the modern conservation movement. The Trust is dedicated to protecting wild land, and to spread the word about its mission has opened a visitor centre in Pitlochry – which is the subject of Susan’s ‘Viewpoint’ page in this issue of aurora.

• SUMMER 2013

constantly strive to improve the facilities and services for customers. One example is our new Gaelic Language Plan, which will increase the use of Gaelic in our airports, special training for staff and the appointment of Gaelic language ambassadors. Read more about the plan inside, along with news of direct flights between Inverness and the Swiss city of Geneva, perfect for winter sports or a mini-break. Small private planes, for business or leisure, make up a significant part of traffic at our airports – and they are a joy to travel in. Find out more inside. This issue also has a great feature on surfing, a sport that – remarkably – can be enjoyed close to all 11 of our airports. There’s a look at the fantastic DerryLondonderry City of Culture programme. Northern Ireland’s second city is easily reached from Inverness via Belfast. Further afield, we look at the vibrant city of Munich, worth a visit at any time of year. Whichever of our airports you are using today, have a relaxing journey and enjoy the magazine. Inglis Lyon, Managing Director Highlands & Islands Airports Limited AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

CONTENTS

AWARD-WINNER Scottish Customer Magazine of the Year

26 Air travellers’ magazine summer 2013 Volume 5 number 2 Managing editor Editor Senior designer Designer Advertising executive

• • • • •

Neil Braidwood Don Currie Matt McArthur Fiona Wilson Hayley Orr

0131 556 2220 aurora-mag.com CONTRIBUTORS Tom Bruce-Gardyne, Michael Gill, Jim Dunn, Marie-Helene Jeeves, Nikola Mossop, Rob Robertson, Lindsey Rogerson, Andrew Ross, Paddy Withams, Susan Wright

FOR HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS AIRPORTS LTD Megan Westmoreland 01667 464212 mwestmoreland@hial.co.uk

City of Culture celebrations in Derry

Aurora magazine (ISSN: 1759-9717) is published four times a year by CMYK Design. The magazine is free to airport users. Follow us on Twitter: @aurora_mag CMYK Design, 91 East London Street, Edinburgh EH7 4BQ. Tel: 0131 556 2220. Email: editor@aurora-mag.com Web: cmyk-design.co.uk © CMYK Design 2013 Please note that unsolicited manuscripts are not accepted. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without prior permission. Editorial material and opinions expressed in aurora do not reﬂect the views of Highlands & Islands Airports Ltd or the publisher. Highlands & Islands Airports Ltd and the publisher do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Products and services are subject to change without prior notice. Highlands & Islands Airports Ltd, Inverness Airport, Inverness IV2 7JB Printed in the UK by Pensord

highlands & islands airports

• SUMMER 2013

The Paps of Jura, seen from Sean Withams’ light aircraft as he and his son Paddy take a memorable day trip

20 SUMMER CONTENTS

Our cover Munich is a city of breathtaking buildings – none more so than the ultra-modern headquarters of BMW. Read all about what to see and do in the city, starting on page 44.

Competitions

win

Tickets to the amazing Loopallu festival, page 19; A stay at the beautiful Putechan Hotel in Kintyre, page 36;

Regulars

Features

06 News

14 Festival frenzy

Find out what’s happening in your region and beyond

Whether music, food or gaming is your thing, get that diary ﬁlled

10 The big picture

20 Surﬁng safari

Proof that Scotland’s seas can be as blue as anything in the tropics

Every HIAL airport has a surfers’ beach nearby, says Andrew Ross

13 Viewpoint

26 Derry lively

Awareness of our wild landscape is growing, says Susan Wright

Now’s the time to visit the City of Culture, suggests Seth Linder

50 Drink

32 Western wonder

Crofters invented cocktails, says our expert, Tom Bruce-Gardyne

52 Sport Two Opens add up to a great golf summer, Rob Robertson predicts

54 Motoring

Glorious Kintyre will live long in the memory of visitor Don Currie The Mercedes-Benz 350SL wins over hard-to-please Jim Dunn

56 Money Holiday funds are tight, but there’s a solution, says Lindsey Rogerson

59 Essentials

38 Air adventure Join Paddy Withams on a ﬂight up the beautiful west coast

44 Munchen away Let Nikola Mossop guide you round Germany’s southern gem

All you need to know about wherever you’re ﬂying today

66 My summer Rachel Sermanni on singing, hills and plans for an overdue holiday

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

NEWS

Swiss connection

Inside story OPEN an unassuming door in Nairn and you will ﬁnd an exciting mix of furniture and interior furnishings. Robertson and Bailey Interiors showcases the work of husband and wife design team Gavin and Julie Robertson. Gavin’s exquisitely crafted furniture and Julie’s relaxed European style make this the place for something special to transform a home. Innovative and stylish fabrics by Ian Mankin are another reason to visit the bright, spacious store in St Ninian Road.

SKIERS and lovers of city breaks, pay attention: Inverness Airport has secured a new winter service to Geneva. Flybe will ﬂy there every Saturday from 21 December, giving winter sports lovers easy access to almost 50 Alpine resorts within an hour of the city. And if you just enjoy exploring the shops, museums, historic buildings and restaurants of a great city, the new service is ideal, too. Switzerland’s second city has stunning views of Europe’s highest mountain, Mont-Blanc, and is dominated by a giant fountain, the Jet d’Eau, pictured right. Flights will leave Inverness at 13.20, arriving in Geneva at 15.40. The return ﬂight will leave Geneva at 16.20, reaching the Highland capital at 18.40. Inverness Airport manager Graeme Bell said: “Geneva is a perfect winter holiday destination, with a fantastic mix of attractions. This is a real coup for Inverness

Look behind you, Gromit LOVABLE clay characters Wallace and Gromit are pictured beside the shores of Loch Ness in their latest adventure. The image, showing the monster

IF YOUR black pudding’s not made in Stornoway, it’s not Stornoway black pudding. That’s the simple message from the European Commission, which has delighted the town’s butchers by giving their product the same “protected geographical indicator” status that applies to Arbroath smokies and Orkney beef.

• SUMMER 2013

Airport and we hope passengers will support the new service.” Travel agent Inghams is also offering ski packages from Inverness, with prices around £344 per person for a week in Courchevel, including ﬂights. The weekly Flybe service will launch on 21 December and is available for booking to 21 February 2014, with one-way fares from £59.99 including taxes.

sneaking up on Gromit, was created for a campaign to encourage Britons to holiday in the UK rather than going abroad. A website, yourgreatadventure.co.uk, shows the dog and his eccentric owner at Blackpool Pleasure Beach, Cheddar Gorge and Titanic Belfast.

GROWN-UP Lego fans will love Brick City, by Warren Elsmore. The book aims for economy and simplicity in its recreations of renowned buildings such as Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris, the Campanile in Venice, and the Burj al Arab tower in Dubai. Mitchell Beazley, £12.99.

On track SCOTLAND has its ﬁrst cycling centre for people with physical and learning disabilities. The Highland Cycle Ability Centre, at Cantray, near Cawdor, east of Inverness, has a 1 kilometre track and time-trial technology to measure cyclists’ progress. It has tandems for visually impaired cyclists, and tricycles. The £250,000 centre, built with support from sportscotland, was opened by Paralympic silver medallist Karen Darke. The Watermill Foundation, the charity behind the project, hopes it will encourage more young disabled people to take up cycling as the 2014 Commonwealth Games in Glasgow approaches. Disabled cycling clubs can use the facility, as can schools, community groups and able-bodied cycling clubs.

Reddy to party? THERE’S no better day to be a redhead than 1 September. That’s when gingers from all over the world congregate in Breda, near Amsterdam, for the Roodharigen festival. And Flybe aims to set a record for most redheads on a flight as it flies from Inverness to Amsterdam in time for the event. Flybe is designating Flight BE1285 on 30 August as an official redhead flight, with an all-ginger crew. All redheads flying on the day receive a voucher for a return flight on any Flybe route from Inverness. The festival, from 30 August to 1 September, is packed with parties, exhibitions, film shows and talks on all aspects of, er, red hair. More than 5,000 gingers are expected. Flybe offers daily flights from Inverness to Amsterdam. See flybe.com.

Western wonders SCOTLAND’S “Big 5” animals have been decided as part of the Year of Natural Scotland – and now the Western Isles are getting in on the act. The national Big 5 are the red deer, golden eagle, otter, harbour seal and red squirrel. Now voters can decide the Hebrides Little 5.

KNOYDART is like nowhere else in Scotland. Accessible only by sea or on foot, it has a strong community and a wealth of wildlife. A new book, Knoydart – Landscape, History, People, by Joanne Woolf, is a great celebration of the area. To order a copy for £4.95 plus P&P, call 01687 462242.

It’s a joint scheme by Curracag (the Outer Hebrides Natural History Society) and Outer Hebrides Biological Recording, and its aim is to focus attention on smaller species, such as the dark green fritillary, left. Be it a plant, mammal, bird, PHOTO: CHRIS amphibian, invertebrate, marine JOHNSON creature or fungus, if your favourite is smaller than a corncrake and lives in the islands, it qualiﬁes. See curracag.org.uk

CHILDREN who like to chat to their teddy in Gaelic are ﬁnding it’s not a one-way conversation. Bábóg, the world’s ﬁrst Gaelic speaking teddy, knows 33 words including numbers, colours and shapes. Pictured with Bábóg is Iona MacLean, of Lewis, whose voice was recorded for the teddy. £30 from Acair in Stornoway. acairbooks.com

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

NEWS

HIAL launches draft Gaelic Language Plan

HIAL a’ cur air bhog Plana Gàidhlig

REGIONAL airports group HIAL has launched a draft Gaelic Language Plan. In common with other public authorities, HIAL is required by the Scottish Government to produce a Gaelic Language Plan under the terms of the Gaelic Language (Scotland) Act 2005. The draft ﬁve-year plan outlines a series of measures by HIAL to support and promote the Gaelic language and culture. Proposals include the creation of a bilingual HIAL logo, increased use of Gaelic in airport signage, terminal information screens and online, Gaelic awareness training for frontline staff, and the appointment of Gaelic language ambassadors. Inglis Lyon, managing director of HIAL, said: “The Gaelic language and culture is an important part of Scotland’s heritage and identity. With airports across Scotland and around 1.3 million UK and international passengers, HIAL is determined to play its part in supporting the development of Gaelic, and in raising its proﬁle across Scotland.” Following a public consultation, the plan will now be submitted to Bòrd na Gàidhlig, the national Gaelic agency, for approval. It’s hoped the plan will be in place by the end of this year.

MARY, Queen of Scots is a ﬁgure whose fascination is undimmed more than 400 years after her death. The exhibition of her jewellery, furniture and portraits in the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh is a mustsee for visitors to the capital this year. It runs until 17 November.

• SUMMER 2013

THA am buidhean phort-adhair roinneil HIAL air am Plana Gàidhlig aca a chur air bhog. Coltach ri ùghdarrasan phoblach eile, tha HIAL air iarraidh le Riaghaltas na h- Alba Plana Gàidhlig a heasachadh fo chumhachan Achd na Gàidhlig (Alba) 2005. Tha am plana 5 bliadhna a’ soilleireachadh na ceumanan a ghabhas HIAL ann a bhith a’ cur taic ri is a’ leasachadh na Gàidhlig is a cultar. A-measg na molaidhean tha a bhith a’ dealbh logo dà-chànanach, a bhith a’ nochdadh barrachd Gàidhlig ann an soidhnichean, ann am ﬁosrachadh agus air loidhne, trèanadh ann am mothachadh cànain airson luchd-obrach a dhèiligeas ris a’ phobail, agus a bhith a’ fasdadh tosgairean airson na Gàidhlig. Thuirt Inglis Lyon, Àrd Stiùiriche HIAL: “Tha Gàidhlig is a cultar na pàirt chudthromach de dhualchas agus dearbh-aithne na h-Alba. Le puirtadhair air feadh na h-Alba agus mu 1.3 millean luchd-siubhail bhon ìoghachd Aonaichte agus thall thairis, tha HIAL airson taic a chur ri leasachadh na Gàidhlig, agus a bhith a’ togail a h-ìomhaigh air feadh na h-Alba.” Às dèidh dhan cho-chomhairleachadh phoblach crìochnachadh, thèid am plana a-nis gu Bòrd na Gàidhlig airson aonta. Thathar an dòchas gun tèid a chur an gnìomh ro dheireadh na bliadhna seo.

HACKNESS Battery on Hoy, Orkney, is celebrating its 200th anniversary. Built for defence against US and French warships, it contains historic furniture and military memorabilia. Historic Scotland is running Wednesday tours with costumed guides all summer at 11am, 1pm and 3pm. Details on 01856 701727.

• SUMMER 2013

THE BIG PICTURE

HOMEGROWN BLUES Ah, this must be the Maldives, you’re thinking. Wrong – it’s Point Sands, Kintyre, just opposite the Isle of Gigha. The magniﬁcent expanse of blue was captured by microlight user Michael Gill. To give you an idea of his height, that white ﬂeck towards the bottom left of the picture is a boat. See michaelgill.eu.

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

VIEWPOINT

Wildly successful THE JOHN MUIR TRUST, SUSAN WRIGHT FEELS, IS MAKING PROGRESS WITH ITS CONSERVATION CAMPAIGN

’M rested, relaxed and refreshed despite aching legs, a bit of sunburn and a bodyful of midge bites. That’s what wild places do to you. I’ve just come back from exploring a small part of the beautiful Knoydart peninsula owned by the John Muir Trust. Stunning blue skies and beaming sunshine brought this special wild place to life in quite a unique way. Scotland is blessed with some of the most amazing natural landscapes. Our wildlife depends on them and thousands of people visit them every year. Many people live close to them and make their living from them. The John Muir Trust recently opened a new visitors’ centre in Pitlochry, offering a window out to these wild places, and highlighting their value to people and nature. The Wild Space is different. It’s not attached to a nature reserve or a national park but it is a gateway to wildness, reminding people why wild places matter, why they’re essential. Driven by two key messages – “Love wild places” and “Help nature flourish” – we developed an interpretive exhibition featuring some beautiful images from top landscape and wildlife photographers such as Colin Prior, Peter Cairns and Danny Green. Using words, film and audio, the display reminds us that wild places are special. It illustrates the damage humans have done to Scotland’s landscape over centuries – deforestation, species extinction, large-scale sheep farming, intrusive developments. But it also points to what we can all do to protect our precious, finite wild land and repair the damage by working to restore habitats and wildlife. We’ve been open just over a month and the feedback from visitors so far suggests we have created a space that’s relaxing and inspiring. Judging from the comments

left in the visitors’ book by people from far and near, it seems to have touched a universal chord. “Lovely, peaceful and informative,” said the Perth College Moving On group. “Amazing display in an amazing place” was one Australian couple’s reaction. “Very impressed – giving landscape a voice is a huge responsibility,” noted the acclaimed nature writer Jim Crumley. People love the sense of space, the fresh smell of wood from the windblown native timbers, and the emotional resonance of the film that forms the centrepiece of the exhibition (some local people come in regularly just to watch the film again). And they’re impressed by the grandeur of the panoramic images of Scotland’s vast rugged landscapes. It’s a great reward for all the hard work we put into the space. In a compact indoor space on a busy village high street, we’ve managed to bring alive our amazing natural world. We can’t track people’s behaviour when they walk back out the door, but we hope their visit will inspire them to discover, explore and connect with the natural world – and do something to help nature flourish, even if that’s simply becoming a member of the John Muir Trust. Back in that corner of Knoydart from which I’ve just returned, nature has made a spectacular comeback, thanks to the dedicated efforts of staff and volunteers over 20 years. Birch, Scots pine, ash, hazel and juniper trees that had long disappeared have returned, and with them the mammals, birds and insects that have been missing for centuries. Nature will do her own thing when given the chance. She just needs a helping hand and the space to do it. We hope our more humble Wild Space will help get that message across. jmt.org/wildspace.asp

IN ASSOCIATION WITH SCOTLAND OUTDOORS WWW.SCOTOUTDOORS.COM

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

EVENTS!

LET’S HEAR IT MUSIC TENDS TO DOMINATE THE SUMMER CALENDAR – BUT THERE IS PLENTY MORE GOING ON, TOO

TIREE MUSIC FESTIVAL An Talla 20-21 July tireemusicfestival.co.uk

JAMES MORRISON

Renowned for its friendliness and superb sunsets, this is a festival that people tend to come back to. This year Capercaillie (above) top the bill, with Skerryvore, Manran, Breabach, Skipinnish and many others lined up to make this one of the strongest line-ups yet.

ISLAY FESTIVAL OF TH E SEA Port Ellen 2-4 August spanglefish.com/islayf estivalofthesea The island has a long his tory of fishing, trading, Irish connections and sailing for pleasure. All this and more will be celebrated with three days of watery activities including coasteering, paddleboardin g, kayaking, rowing and fishsmoking (left). See how boats are built and keep your strength up with fantast ic seafood.

• SPRING 2013

DARE PROTOPLA Y Dundee 8-11 August daretobedigital.com Crowds at this com puter gaming jambo ree just keep growing – an estimated 10,000 console cognoscenti from as far aﬁeld as China and India des cended on Tayside las t time, to demonstrate their prototypes and compete. Hosted by the University of Abertay, the event is the culmination of Dare to be Digital, a com petition that aims to give students and recent graduates a taste of life in a design studio, an d also gives them a tilt at a Bafta One to Wa tch Award.

BELLADRUM Beauly 2-3 August l.co.uk tartanheartfestiva zzled l this year features gri A strong, diverse bil d an ve (pictured above) bluesman Seasick Ste ll as we as Noisettes (right) versatile popsters the ’s a ere Th . tic an ers Twin Atl Glasgow up-and-com ir the n tha es heroes Jam lot more to late 80s be Down, and they will Sit c ssi cla ble pa inesca d. ne tai ter en rs nte sure to keep the pu

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

Celebrate Scotland, Land of Food and Drink during Scottish Food & Drink Fortnight 7th - 22nd September For more information, visit

scottishfoodanddrinkfortnight.co.uk

EVENTS

MATISSE, RS IN PRINT – TE AS M N ER MOD AND WARHOL PICASSO, DALI Dundee The McManus, November 23 August – 17 com e. de vandaatdun

VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON/DACS

t and most century’s greates Four of the 20th is exhibition th e celebrated in popular artists ar -up to the city’s part of the build from the V&A, all dy Warhol was e waterfront. An led own V&A on th such as his untit d for his prints, as ere chieﬂy renowne wh , ht rig , image from 1967 Marilyn Monroe edia and are best ed a variety of m us the other three tmaking was an s. All knew prin known as painter dience, and their reach a wide au on. effective way to ly in this collecti e through vivid genius will com

DUNDEE FLOWER AND FOOD FESTIVAL Camperdown Country Park 6-8 September dundeeﬂowerandfoodfestival.com

BLAS Various venues 6-14 September blasfestival.com Exceptionally wide in its scope and reach, this great Gaelic culture festival is strong on music but stirs crafts, writing, drama, art and even shinty into the mix as well. Among the highlights will be piper Calum MacCrimmon’s performances of a specially commissioned piece called Boraraig. The National Theatre of Scotland perform a new music-theatre piece entitled A Little Bird Blown Off Course, about the life of the song collector Margaret Fay Shaw. A very strong drama bill also includes Angus – Weaver of Grass, about a crofter who never spoke during nearly 50 years in a psychiatric hospital, and spent his time making astonishing costumes from grass. The Rachel Hair Trio (pictured above) bring their blend of harp, guitar and double bass, and there are three very strong bills at Eden Court in Inverness, culminating in a grand ﬁnale starring Capercaillie.

Gardeners and cooks – often the same people, of course – love this big, impressive event, with its talks, demonstrations, displays and tastings and competitions. Guest speakers normally seen on the small screen include Paul Hollywood from The Great British Bake Off and Christine Walden, gardening guru from The One Show. There’s a children’s marquee which this time is adopting the Year of Natural Scotland theme, with mini wildﬂower meadow to admire at close quarters.

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

EVENTS

SCOTTISH FOOD AND DRINK FORTNIGHT Various venues 7-22 September scottishfoodanddrinkfortnight.co.uk Hundreds of events, from farmers’ markets to tastings and demonstrations by chefs normally seen on the small screen, all aimed at promoting the best fare that the country has to offer. Last year big names such as baking guru Mary Berry and Skye hospitality pioneer Lady Claire Macdonald were joining in the fun, and this year’s events, spread generously all over the country, are bound to be just as tempting.

d weeken 0 8 £ f o win A pair lu l a p o o L o tickets t We have a pair of £80 weekend camping tickets to Loopallu to give away to aurora readers. To be in with a chance, simply go to aurora-mag.com and answer the question below.

QUESTION: In which year did the Loopallu festival ﬁrst take place? PRIVACY Please note that when you enter this competition will be added to the aurora emailing list, if you are not already a subscriber. Our mails are infrequent and you will be free to unsubscribe at any time. We will not pass your details on to third parties.

TERMS The winner will receive a pair of weekend camping tickets to Loopallu 2013, worth £80 per ticket. Travel is not included in the prize and entrants must be aged at least 18. The prizes are supplied by aurora magazine. Delivery addresses must be in the UK. The prize is non-transferable and there is no cash alternative. All entries must be received by noon on 19 August 2013. If the winner fails to respond to notiﬁcation within seven days, the prize will be allocated to another entrant. Employees of HIAL, Loopallu and aurora magazine/CMYK Design are not eligible to enter. No one aged under 16 is allowed into the festival without an adult.

LOOPALLU Ullapool 20-21 Septem ber loopallu.co.uk This superb ev ent in the phenomenally pretty town of Ullapoo l, ﬁrst held in 2005, is normally a sell-out, so do n’t delay. Headliners this year include Midlan ds indie heroes the Enem y (above right), ska legends the (above), Idlewild Beat singer Roddy W oomble and “o folk” merchan rc hestral ts the Moulette s. More acts we ﬁnalised as we re being went to press, so check the we any case much bsite – but in of the appeal is down to the go setting, friendl rgeous y atmosphere an d great food an d drink. AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

SURFING

PHOTOGRAPH: JENNIFER WILLMET

ON A WAVE NEAR YOU THERE ARE 11 AIRPORTS IN THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS AIRPORTS GROUP. AND GUESS WHAT? EVERY ONE OF THEM IS HANDILY PLACED FOR A SURFING BEACH. ANDREW ROSS PRESENTS A PERFECTLY BALANCED GUIDE, COMPLETE WITH GLOSSARY FOR THE TERMS IN ITALICS

Action in front of Holburn Head Lighthouse on the west side of Thurso Bay

Barra Barra and Vatersay are the southernmost inhabited isles of the Outer Hebrides chain and, with vast expanses of Atlanticfacing coastline, are a haven for surfers looking for virgin breaks and secret spots. There’s nothing secret about the sandy beach break at Traigh Eais, which is just west of the airport on Barra and perfect for beginners or, on a good day, intermediate surfers. Traigh Mhor – the beach that forms the sand runway at Barra Airport – is actually one of Barra’s best windsurfing beaches. Further afield, on Vatersay, connected to Barra by a • SUMMER 2013

Above: Traigh Eais beach, Barra. Right: Hosta beach, North Uist

causeway, Bagh Siar is pounded by Atlantic swell and increasingly surfers, in their 5mm winter wetsuits, hoods, boots and gloves can be seen braving the elements to surf here during winter when the waves are at their biggest. Barra and Vatersay boast year-round swell, however, and reasonable water temperatures, compared to breaks on the North Sea coast.

Stornoway Stornoway

also home to Nunton House, which sheltered Bonnie Prince Charlie after fleeing Culloden in 1746.

Benbecula

Dundee Barra

They may be nowhere near as consistent as their west coast cousins but there is still fun to be had on Scotland’s many east coast breaks, Dundee some of which are within paddling distance of Dundee Airport. St Andrews is home to two decent beach breaks well suited to beginners. St Andrews East is less consistent than its neighbour St Andrews West but when large swell does occasionally wrap in here from the North Atlantic and North Sea during the winter and early spring it can be one of the best spots on the east coast. Arbroath and Lunan Bay, which is particularly picturesque, are also good beach breaks worth checking out and both are quieter than St Andrews. Inverness Inverness

Inverness The first place east of Inverness Airport to get any serious swell or decent surf on the Moray Firth coast is Lossiemouth’s East Beach where a dedicated group of local surfers can be found in the line-up when there’s even the merest hint of swell. When the surf is small you can paddle out from the East Beach. When it’s bigger the harbour wall provides easier access, especially at high tide. A little further along the coast is the fishing village of Sandend, which has a very beginner-friendly beach break where surfers young and old can be found honing their pop-up. A handy rip along the rocks on the harbour-side can help surfers get out-the-back of the breaking surf at Sandend.

Stornoway Benbecula Benbecula and its neighbours, North Uist and South Uist, with their shallow bays, exposed Atlantic coastline and year-round warm waters, are gaining a growing reputation among the surfing fraternity. With many surf spots here uncharted, consulting any friendly local you spot in head-to-toe neoprene or with a surfboard on their car roof will prove more enlightening than any surf guidebook. Safe bets near Benbecula Airport include Hosta on North Uist, which is a consistent north-facing break that can deliver clean, shoulder-height waves on a beach that is as deserted and pristine as they come. Benbecula’s crescent-shaped Culla Bay is a good sand and shingle beach break for beginners and also a good bet when other spots nearby are too big. Culla Bay is

Exposed as they are to the Atlantic swell, Lewis and Harris boast some of the best and most consistent surf spots in Europe and are favourites with holidaying surfers from Scotland and further afield. There are enough good surf spots to fill an entire magazine article but Eoropie and Dalmore on Lewis and Scarasta on Harris are three of the best. Eoropie, on the northern tip of Lewis, is just 45 minutes’ drive from the airport. The view from the hill at the south end of the beach of the sets rolling into the beach is stunning, inviting even the most timid of observers into the clear, tropical-looking waters. This consistent, hollow beach break can produce some of the best long, right-hand tubes in Scotland. Dalmore is another consistent beach break often used for lessons by Surf Lewis, while those seeking isolation tend to head south to Scarasta. AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

SURFING

Campbeltown There are six decent surf breaks on the Mull of Kintyre, all within a 30-minute drive of Campbeltown Airport. Not all are beginner-friendly – particularly the rock-strewn, and ominously named Graveyards break opposite the rivermouth in Bellochantuy Bay. Graveyards takes its name from the cemetery that overlooks the picturesque beach – a sight surfers will see more often than they might expect in Scotland – and is more popular with advanced surfers. Beginners head to the stunning Dunaverty spot in Carskey Bay to the south of Campbeltown. It may be less reliable than other spots in the area such as Machrihanish and Westport, which boasts huge surf in the right conditions, but Dunaverty is a beautiful, mellow sandy, beach break. Below: Dunaverty Bay, Kintyre. Right: Machir Bay, Islay

Islay Islay has five decent surf breaks. The bays at Ardnave, Saligo, Machir, Lossit and Laggan on the island’s west coast are all within a 40-minute drive of the airport at Glenegedale, and Laggan Bay is within earshot. This four-mile long beach provides a plethora of breaks for surfers and, overlooked by the Machrie Golf Links, is a popular spot with other visitors, too. Islay is all about the deserted surf break, particularly Lossit Bay on the Atlantic Coast, though the lack of parking here means surfers must consider local people when choosing where to leave their cars – a policy that should apply in any remote surf spot. Machir Bay is one of the most beautiful beaches on the island and the beach break there is punchy and fast. As at other spots on the island, be mindful of rips and strong currents on changing tides.

Surf speak

TALK OF THE TUBES SECRET SPOT

LINE-UP

RIP

Rarely surfed beaches or breaks whose location is closely guarded by the few who surf them.

The area, generally on the ocean side of the break, where surfers gather waiting for waves.

BEACH BREAK

POP-UP

Surf spot where waves break over a beach, typically sand or shingle.

The action of switching from lying on your surfboard to standing after catching a wave.

Currents that run out to sea as water from breaking waves drains away. Surfers should always make themselves aware of any rips or currents before surﬁng in a new location. If in doubt ask a local or consult the excellent Stormrider Surf Guide, Europe for information on tides, rips and the best conditions for any given spot.

• SUMMER 2013

Sumburgh

Kirkwall

Islay Islay Campbeltown

Sumburgh South Shetland, like Orkney, boasts many secret spots and unridden waves, mostly due to geography and low footfall on the island. Two of the best spots on the island are probably Boddam and Sandwick to the south of Shetland’s mainland. However there are also two great spots within sight of the airport. Boatramp is a fun, consistent break that works well on a southerly or large westerly swell. Quendale Bay is a beautiful, often-deserted, beach that picks up plenty of swell.

Kirkwall Orkney has huge untapped potential for surfing with secret and undiscovered spots dotted all around the islands. The known breaks include Bu Sands, Fisk Helliar, Birsay Bay, Marwick, Skaill Bay and Skara Brae. Two of the best are Skaill Bay, a brilliant right that breaks over a smooth reef, and Skara Brae – yes, that Skara Brae, as in the Neolithic village. Indeed the ancient site now famous the world over was only discovered in 1850 when storms and a high tide saw the waves there strip the grass from a large mound to reveal the well preserved settlement. Among surfers, Skara Brae is better known for being home to a consistent, long left-hand point break but the presence of the settlement dating back to 3,200 BC overlooking the bay adds a certain resonance to surfing there.

OUT-THE-BACK

TUBE

REEF BREAK

Area behind or beyond where waves break. Surfers gather here to observe approaching sets of waves.

Tunnel formed when a large wave curls over.

Wave that breaks over a solid rock or coral base.

RIGHT

POINT BREAK

Wave that breaks to the right (from the standpoint of a surfer). Waves that break the opposite way are, perhaps unsurprisingly, known as lefts.

Long, peeling break formed when waves hit a headland or reef protruding from the coastline.

SET A series of waves approaching arriving from the open ocean at a surf break. Waves typically arrive in sets, separated by lulls.

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SURFING

Tiree Popular with surfers and windsurfers alike – this is a world-class windsurfing location due to W ick Wick the consistent breeze and swell – Tiree boasts John O’Groats five great surf spots dotted around the west and south coasts of the island. With white sands, clear waters and near perfect surf T iir ree Tiree conditions for much of the year, there are few better destinations for the travelling surfer. In the north of Tiree, Balephetrish is a good, if rocky, beach break, but is not as consistent as Balevullin Bay – though surfers should beware the cluster of rocks in the middle of the bay and the powerful rip currents here at high tide. Balephuil in the south of Tiree is another good reef break. Near Balevullin, The Hough is another good beach break while west-facing The Maze is one of the most popular surf spots on Tiree. None rivals Port Bharrapol, however, which combines beach and reef break potential in a truly stunning setting. You’re never too young to start

Staying upright ASK AN EXPERT As with all watersports, surfing carries an inherent risk so always put safety first. You need to be a competent swimmer and it is strongly advised to take lessons from a qualified instructor. Don’t surf alone, don’t eat less than an hour before surfing, speak to fellow surfers who know the local conditions, make sure you’ve got suitable gear and check weather and surf forecasts. THURSO SURF SCHOOL The most northerly surf school in Britain and close to one of the finest surf spots in the world. Surf school is run at beaches around Caithness, especially Dunnet beach, a favourite for beginners. 0844 802 5750, thursosurf.co.uk SUDS SURF SCHOOL Surf school at Balevullin beach on Tiree. The school takes advantage of the warm waters and consistent swell to offer year-round courses, from leisurely taster sessions to week-long intensive instruction. 07793 063849, surfschoolscotland.co.uk

Wick John O’Groats Caithness surf was really put on the global surf map between 2006 and 2011 when the O’Neill Cold Water Classic was held in Thurso, attracting the cream of the world’s surfing talent to the far north of Scotland. Talked about for the last three decades in UK surf circles as one of the world’s great right-hand reef breaks, Thurso East is now known worldwide and attracts surfing pilgrims from afar who want to experience this perfect barrel for themselves. Breaking over a reef in extremely shallow water, Thurso East is not for the faint of heart with Sh*t Pipe – the charmingly named break across the bay from Thurso East – more popular with intermediate surfers. Along the coast towards the airport, the sandbottomed beach break at Dunnet Bay is a better bet for beginners, with Thurso Surf School offering lessons there. • SUMMER 2013

Board bill Check with your airline before arriving at the airport with your board – not all aircraft can take boards, and if yours can, there may be a charge.

SURF LEWIS Surf school in Stornoway, which provides lessons and equipment hire at various beaches on Lewis and Harris. Surf Lewis offers one-to-one instruction and also group lessons, perfect for stag or hen parties or family groups. 07920 427194, surﬂewis.co.uk SURF FORECASTS See magicseaweed.com

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DERRY

TIME TO GO IF YOU’VE NEVER BEEN TO DERRY, PUT THAT RIGHT AS IT REVELS IN ITS ROLE AS UK CITY OF CULTURE, WRITES SETH LINDEN

EVIN MURPHY HAS NO DOUBT this is an important year for his home city. “It’s as plain as the nose on your face. The most viable way to bring about a more confident, diverse, forward looking society in Derry is through culture. It’s in our DNA after all, so how else would you do it?” That’s how the clarinettist and arts administrator sees the potential of the inaugural UK City of Culture 2013 to transform Derry. He’s not alone. On the night of 15 July 2010, when the decision was to be announced, many hundreds packed the Guildhall, a focus of city life for more than a century, to see whether Northern Ireland’s second city had topped the fourstrong shortlist. A mighty roar greeted the news that this

• SUMMER 2013

Dancers from the Fabrik Company, based in Potsdam, Germany, are among many performers from all over the world descending this year on Derry, where the new Peace Bridge across the River Foyle has transformed the landscape

-quoted rry’s year. In the oft would indeed be De ze Pri bel No porter, the words of one bid sup ment mo a s wa it ey, s Hean winning poet Seamu tory rhymed”. “when hope and his er all, decision was just. Aft Few could deny the 0th 40 the s Derry celebrate 2013 is also the year the d an lls wa rld famous anniversary of its wo already ted that the city was no ve ha uld judges wo ing able job of transform doing a quite remark t. pas the of s day itself from the dark ut the people Most of all, it was abo rs will discover for themselves. As visito not city where culture is themselves, this is a people the h wit ins beg t bu imposed from above , eed twards. How else, ind and reverberates ou t this historic bu would you transform gh rced city save throu sou -re der historically un other? a cultural year like no of the talents, not just red rtu nu s ha rry De ing liv st ate gre d’s lan Ire Seamus Heaney, but to el. Its contributions playwright, Brian Fri es to ton der Un nk icons the music range from pu g din an tst ou d an er il Coult singer-songwriter Ph slin Bre l tha Ca t nis e pia classical musicians lik rard McChrystal. Ge t nis ho op sax d an herty, winner of the The artist Willie Do d the actress Bronagh Venice Biennale, an o others from a never Gallagher are just tw y. ativit ending source of cre se nt is that each of tho But what is significa are, ts, en er homegrown tal artists, and many oth of y Cit to g a contribution in some way, makin the not just a year when is is Th . 13 Culture 20 city the ere wh t bu rry it De world’s great artists vis . istic achievements, too celebrates its own art ormation has been tra In truth, Derry’s nsf years now. Its historic taking place for a few the expensively restored, buildings have been tly en rec the to ds dge lea striking new Peace Bri t vas a to me ho e, built Ebrington Centr ea d projected to becom Performance Plaza, an a of n itio city, with the add cultural hub for the e. d much els Maritime Museum an le, king over the River Foy sna , dge Bri ce The Pea from the Protestant also connects people

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DERRY

Waterside to the Catholic cityside. Derry, finally, feels like one city. Of course, it has not been all plain sailing. There has been controversy over the use of the word UK in the City of Culture title, as many of the city’s Catholic majority see their identity as Irish. The city is very near the border with beautiful Donegal in the Irish Republic as well as a short drive from Northern Ireland’s dramatic Antrim coastline, with its renowned Giant’s Causeway. And should we call it Derry or Londonderry, or choose the cumbersome official compromise, DerryLondonderry? What’s in a name? Not much, would probably be the reaction of the many thousands who roared on surprise guest Robbie Williams and other stars at Radio 1’s Big Weekend in May or who were wowed in June by the visual theatre of St Colmcille’s Return, a largely river-based spectacular about Derry’s patron saint created by the man who wrote the much heralded opening of the London Olympics. In a sense the 400th The anniversary of the city’s Playh ouse been has lo a cult walls takes us back to the ng ural pow erho use in core of that argument over with the c proje ity, cts s Stree the city’s name. As part of uch t Talk as , abo Wha ve, a t If, r the Plantation of Ulster, nd ight, youn nurt g tale uring the old Irish settlement nt of Derry was rebuilt as an English stronghold. Paid for by the London Companies, hence the new name, Londonderry, those walls, the only complete city walls in Ireland and the last to be built in Europe, • SUMMER 2013

were not just for decoration. In the Siege of Derry in 1688-89 they kept out the army of James II, at no little cost to the defenders inside, and helped change the course of Irish history. The walls themselves will play a big part in the year of culture, with events like the Military Tattoo, historical re-enactments and much more. Surrounding the old city, they are not only wonderful to explore, but also offer easy access to some of Derry’s most important cultural venues. Just within or near the walls are the marvellous Playhouse Theatre, whose director Pauline Ross has been a cultural inspiration for the city; the Verbal Arts Centre, home to all kinds of innovative literary activity, and the recently renovated Guildhall with its excellent Plantation exhibition. There’s the Millennium Forum, where any number of major performances will take place this year and the award-winning Tower Museum, the perfect place to discover the city’s history – and enjoy the best view of Derry from its rooftop. In Magazine Street, just inside the West Gate, is one of Ireland’s most innovative arts hubs, the brilliant Nerve Centre, which will be hosting

, with the The city walls d, are a hin be ll ha Guild of Derry re tu fea deﬁning

numerous live music and cultural events. Visual art lovers should also check out the outstanding Void Gallery in Patrick Street. Picking up slowly, the year has already seen several highlights. The Royal Ballet wowed a packed audience at the Millennium Forum and the City of Derry Jazz and Big Band Festival was bigger than ever. But most of the major attractions still lie ahead. The Derry-born classical pianist Cathal Breslin founded the Walled City Music Festival with his American wife, flautist Sabrina Hu, in 2008. It runs from 19-28 July at venues around Derry and there will be two special concerts as part of City of Culture, organised with the City of London Festival. No event in the whole year will match the Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann for scale, spectacle and energy. The world’s biggest celebration of

Irish culture, this will be the first time the Fleadh has taken place north of the border. It is estimated that between 11 and 18 August, some 300,000 visitors will witness the cream of Irish traditional musicians and dancers from all over the world as the city turns into a massive performance space. As well as events at the Irish cultural centre, Cultúrlann Uí Chanáin, there will be a host of street sessions, pageants, marches, céilís and concerts. At the Walled City Tattoo, Irish and Highland dancers come together as a cast of hundreds bring music, song, dance and theatre to the city between 28 and 30 August. The event also features the Top Secret Drum Corps, a Swiss outfit whose remarkable drumming style was a highlight of the Edinburgh Tattoo. These days Derry’s waterfront is buzzing with cafes, restaurants and bars. All of which will be packed for the City of Derry Traditional Boats Regatta between 1 and 31 August. This is a recreation of an annual regatta of the 1900s, which featured the local punt boats, used as fishing boats in the north-west of Ireland for centuries. A quick mention of another local with a big reputation. George Farquhar, whose most famous play was The Beaux Stratagem, was born here in 1678. Local theatre group, Blue Eagle Productions, are presenting the George Farquhar Theatre Festival throughout September, including a biographical play, A Fresh Gale and Cold Chicken. AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

DERRY

Thanks to Codetta, a local choir with an international reputation, Derry is renowned for its choral singing. As part of the City of Culture, the City of Derry International Choral Festival, from 24-27 October, brings four days of top national and international choirs to venues such as the Guildhall, Waterside Theatre and the recently renovated St Columb’s Cathedral. The latter, the world’s first post-Reformation cathedral, is one of the city’s must-see sights. Try and take in the nearby and even older St Augustine’s Church too, also within the walls. Often promoted as Europe’s biggest Halloween party, the Banks of the Foyle Hallowe’en Carnival, from 29 October to 2 November, will be even more spectacular for 2013. It’s really a great excuse to don outlandish fancy dress and enjoy a colourful fireworks display over the Foyle. John Peel’s favourite punk group, the Undertones, are probably the best-known band to emerge from Derry. Their biggest hit, Teenage Kicks, is the title of a musical about teenage lust and love set in Derry during the punk era. It’s written by Colin Bateman and will be presented at the Millennium Forum from 1-9 November. Dance fans shouldn’t miss the city’s groundbreaking troupe Echo Echo, who stage their own festival from 8-17 November at their Bishop Street studios. Highlights will include the Fabrik Company from Germany and works from Palestine, Moldova and throughout Ireland. Based at the Nerve Centre, the Foyle Film Festival, 20-24 November, is widely regarded as one of the most exciting in Europe. For this special year, its 26th incarnation, it hosts The Unusual Suspects – a series of unusual screenings at unusual locations. Perhaps the most prestigious event of the year is the Turner Prize, the first time it has been staged outside England. The work of the shortlisted artists (including • SUMMER 2013

ft, is e, le ous of h y Pla City The the for ows h b s u ah with ize, ure, nerg ell Cult Re-e itch s a M y such Gar y b , t righ

Glasgow’s David Shrigley and Berlin-based Tino Sehgal) will be exhibited at Ebrington Square from 23 October to 5 January, with the awards ceremony on 2 December. And what will all this mean for Derry? I’ll leave the last words to Pauline Ross, who created the wonderful Playhouse Theatre virtually from scratch. She says: “The City of Culture could transform Derry as the Olympics transformed the East End of London. It will leave us that kind of legacy. It will be a year-long celebration that will allow us to articulate who we are and convey that to the rest of the world.” See cityofculture2013.com and derryvisitor.com



GETTING THERE Derry is easily reached from Belfast City Airport, served by frequent ﬂights from Inverness. Driving takes less than two hours. There are also trains and buses.

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DISTILLERY & VISITOR CENTRE

KINTYRE

KINTYRE HAS AN EXCELLENT LONGDISTANCE WALK – AND SO MUCH MORE BESIDES, AS DON CURRIE DISCOVERS

WAYto GO

• SUMMER 2013

Sunset over the Atlantic, left, and boats in Campbeltown harbour

OME have called Kintyre the forgotten corner – but suddenly the profile of this beautiful and lively peninsula is on the up. A combination of investment, energetic promotion, unaccustomed attention from the media and a growing willingness on the part of visitors to look beyond the obvious have all helped. Sailors, surfers, walkers and birdwatchers have treasured this part of Scotland for decades – but there has long been a feeling that their numbers could be greater. Access is vital to any region’s prosperity, and Kintyre has laboured to dispel the mistaken belief that it is hard to get to from our main cities. Not so. Flybe has given Kintyre a vote of confidence by introducing new Sunday flights between Glasgow and Campbeltown this summer. The airline now operates up to 22 flights a week with fares starting from £29.99. The convenient flight

only takes 50 minutes and each passenger gets a free 20kg baggage allowance. And there are other ways of reaching the area, too. In May, CalMac introduced a new ferry service running three times weekly between Ardrossan in Ayrshire and Campbeltown, with an extra stop on Saturdays at Brodick, on Arran. It is the ferry operator’s first new route in 20 years. Small, fast passenger boats operated by Kintyre Express run between Campbeltown and Ballycastle in Northern Ireland. The crossing takes 90 minutes and is popular with cyclists, who can bring their bikes on board, and with leisure and business travellers in either direction, who can arrange for a hire car to be waiting on arrival. Road connections are also far better than some assume. The journey by car from Glasgow to Tarbert, where Kintyre begins, takes as little as two hours, 20 minutes, and there are several buses per day. And it’s not just passenger transport that is improving. In April a £4.6 million quay was opened in Campbeltown by deputy first AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

KINTYRE

minister, Nicola Sturgeon. This followed work on deepening the harbour to allow in vessels big enough to carry the six-metre wide wind turbine towers being manufactured by Wind Towers at Machrihanish. She said: “Opening the new quay marks a significant milestone – not only for the local community in Argyll, but for the whole of Scotland.” Not so hard to get to, then. But what awaits when you arrive? I decide to go on a two-day visit to find out, using the abovementioned Loganair service – and finding that the staff at Campbeltown airport are as friendly a bunch as you could hope to meet. My first treat is a walk along two beautiful parts of the Kintyre Way, • SUMMER 2013

an 87-mile walkers’ trail that snakes its way down the peninsula from Tarbert in the north to the aptly named Southend. I’m accompanied by the Way’s route manager, Andy Holtby, newly arrived in post following 10 years working on the Speyside Way in Moray. He believes his new role will prove even more satisfying, as he works on ways to enhance and extend the route, taking more of it off-road and attracting more walkers. He says: “It’s so diverse in its terrain and landscape, and all the way along there are fantastic 360degree views.” Andy takes me on a moorland trek through Innean Glen, near Ballygroggan, where every step is in the company of skylarks in full

voice, and then on a coastal stretch south of Carradale, where vivid yellow broom fringes a succession of delectable bays looking across the Kilbrannan Sound to the hills of Arran. Just as impressive as the scenery, though, is the economic activity that the Kintyre Way is stimulating. Network Carradale, a charity aiming to lure more visitors to this attractive village, has opened a cycle hire and repair service right on the Way, which is also popular with those who prefer pedalling to walking. Mechanic Ian Brodie maintains a range of mountain bikes on which to explore the endless forest tracks in the area. More unusually, he shows me two motorised all-terrain

Offshore gem

THE ISLE OF GIGHA

Clockwise from main picture: Mull of Kintyre Lighthouse; a windsurfer takes off; the peaceful Lady McCartney Memorial Garden in Campbeltown; the Springbank Distillery, where visitors can enjoy a guided tour

buggies that he hopes will give disabled people a taste of the outdoor adventure that is often denied them. “The scenery and fresh air round here is great,” he says, “and there’s no reason why everyone shouldn’t have a chance to enjoy it.” A few miles south, at Ifferdale, Andrew Gemmill’s cattle and sheep farm is also on the Way, and he has taken advantage by converting outbuildings into an extremely well appointed bunkhouse and bothy for walkers, cyclists and anyone else caring to stay. He is well known throughout Kintyre for the quality of his beef and lamb, on sale at farmers’ markets in Campbeltown and Lochgilphead, and is hoping the

new accommodation will soon be held in equally high esteem. He says: “I wanted to broaden the business and diversify. A lot of work has gone into this and I think it will do well.” There’s far more to this part of Scotland than the Kintyre Way, though. It’s packed with places of interest – generally quite low-key, but all the more charming for that. I’m especially taken with St Columba’s Footprints, near Dunaverty, which are said to mark the spot where Columba landed in 563 en route to Iona, where he was to change the course of Scottish history. The medieval stone carvings of armoured lords at the ruined Saddell Abbey are impressive – all

If spending any time at all in Kintyre, make a point of visiting the peaceful Isle of Gigha, just three miles to the west. The ferry from Tayinloan takes only 20 minutes and the island is great for cycling, walking and wildlife watching. It also has the spectacular Achamore Gardens, where the mild microclimate allows a renowned collection of rhododendrons and other noteworthy plant to ﬂourish. The island, owned and run by the local community since a buyout in 2002, has a hotel, B&Bs, holiday cottages and a campsite. See gigha.org.uk

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Travel facts NEED TO KNOW

The Ugadale Hotel from the ﬁrst tee at Machrihanish golf course

the more so as I have the place to myself. In Campbeltown, I’m also the only one soaking up the sunshine in the unexpectedly touching Lady McCartney Memorial Garden, tucked away in Shore Street. A statue, made by Jane Robbins and paid for by Sir Paul, shows Linda holding a lamb and sits among beautifully kept flower beds cared for and financed by friends in the area. It would be odd to discuss this area with no mention of its most celebrated residents, and I hear several anecdotes about them, all favourable. They spent a great deal of time here at their farm, and Sir Paul is still spotted occasionally. But it’s Linda, who died in 1998, that seems to have inspired special affection with her work for charity and support for local events. People all over the world have heard of the Mull of Kintyre, in many cases solely because of the record, which sold more than six million copies worldwide, and the accompanying video, filmed on Saddell Beach and starring the Campbeltown Pipe Band. OK, you knew all that – but did you know about the garden? If not, you probably do know about a building just a few streets away – the Springbank Distillery. It caters superbly for visitors, and

because it’s the only distillery in Scotland where the entire manufacturing process takes place on site, including bottling, so there is much to see – and taste. For me, time is running out and I only manage to call in for a chat at Cadenhead’s Whisky Shop in Union Street, where I nervously pick up the most expensive bottle on sale, made in 1919. Not having £50,000 on me, I leave empty-handed and head for my next appointment, at Machrihanish Dunes golf course. Opened in 2009 by the US developer Southworth, this is already rated by many as a truly world-class course and a worthy neighbour to the historic Machrihanish course. I’m a twice-a-year hacker and really have no business venturing on to a course of this quality, but Peter Stogdale, a host, starter, buggy driver and enthusiast for all things Kintyre, is happy to accompany round a few of the holes, which have all been laid out without major earth-moving and with maximum care for the environment. “It’s absolutely beautiful isn’t it? I feel very lucky to be here,” he says, pretending not to be surprised at the one decent shot of my visit. He’s talking about Machrihanish Dunes, of course – but his words could equally apply to Kintyre itself. 

Don Currie stayed at The Putechan, Bellochantuy, theputechan.co.uk, and at the Ugadale Hotel at Machrihanish Dunes, machrihanishdunes.com The Putechan – pronounced Pooch-e-kin – is a former hunting lodge a stone’s throw from the Atlantic and very close to the classic beaches at Machrihanish and Westport, much loved by surfers and windsurfers. Now magniﬁcently converted into a boutique hotel, it serves excellent meals using as much local produce as possible. The Ugadale is a 22-room luxury hotel, complete with spa and its own separate pub. Both hotels highly recommended. Find out more about Kintyre on explorekintyre.co.uk and for Kintyre Way route information and maps see kintyreway.com Carradale Cycle Hire, networkcarradale.co.uk Ifferdale Bunkhouse, 01583 431666 Springbank Whisky, springbankwhisky.com Find out about travel to Kintyre by plane, ferry and bus on ﬂybe.com, calmac.co.uk and citylink.co.uk

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

FLYING FOR FUN

UPS DOWNS WHEN YOU’RE THE SOLE PASSENGER AND THE PILOT’S YOUR DAD, THAT’S PERSONAL SERVICE. PADDY WITHAMS SHARES SOME BLUE-SKY THINKING ON HIS FLIGHT FROM FIFE TO TIREE AND ISLAY

• SUMMER 2013

of a perfect day I

F YOU’RE a regular air passenger around the Highlands and Islands, you may think you know what a small plane feels like. And certainly, though the aircraft used for regular services to, say, Barra, or Wick John O’Groats, are tiny compared to the jumbo jets that criss-cross the Atlantic, they are certainly not the smallest in the skies. Sean Withams, or Dad, as I know him, is a pilot for easyjet, but he also belongs to a small co-operative that share-owns a Rallye 150, a distinctive light aircraft with a large glass canopy. Inspired by a good weather forecast, we decide to make the trip from our base in east Fife over to the west coast islands of Tiree and Islay. Normally a trip in it involves a 30-minute jaunt that does not stray too far from the home grass strip, so as I climb in I’m very much looking forward to our cross-country adventure. We plan to cruise at a mere 100 miles an hour, which may not sound that fast – but it’s amazing how much difference a high average speed and an as-the-crow-flies route make to a journey time. Between our starting point and our first

The magniﬁcent view from the Rallye 150 high above Islay

stop in Tiree lie 150 miles of land and sea, and this is to be covered in only an hour and a half – a lot quicker than road and ferry. After completing the mandatory pre-flight checks we strap ourselves into the small four-seat aircraft and begin to taxi out. The Rallye is a bit more spacious than some light aircraft. However, if you’re over six feet, as we both are, there is still not much room for stretching. The left-hand seat is the pilot’s seat, with the co-pilot on the right, and there are controls on both sides, reminiscent of a driving instructor’s vehicle. This enables both people in the front to fly, but it also means you have to watch where you put your feet – stretch them too far and you’ll start controlling the tail rudders. The full body straps and headset are standard procedure for every flight but it is only on flights that stray over open water that lifejackets are needed. The headsets act both to reduce the drone of the noisy engine and to allow radio communication between those in the cockpit. The engine is fired up and once it has warmed and stabilised, we are ready for take-off. Taking off in such a small aircraft is quite an experience. Even though I’ve experienced it many times before, the moment the aircraft’s lift outmuscles gravity never fails to amaze me. In an airliner this moment does not inspire much in the passenger beyond a general AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

FLYING FOR FUN

Facing the control tower at Islay airport and, opposite, refuelling. Below: the brightly painted aircraft

relief, but in a light aircraft you are right in the action. You can feel the bumpy ground being replaced by the smooth air and see the blades of grass get smaller and smaller until they become just another green field. Now we are airborne we direct our attention to our pre-planned route. A journey in the air is different to one on the ground in several ways, not least in how you navigate. When driving, navigation involves taking the right road, the right exits, and reading signs. Navigation in the sky is far more like hill walking and a detailed route map must be drawn up and calculated beforehand. You can go the wrong way at any point so having a correct bearing and a variety of landmarks along the route are both essential. Our route was a fairly straight line and was marked with a few usefully placed wind farms, which we used to clarify our direction. For each notable landmark we had a pre-calculated estimated time of arrival based on the distance between points and our estimated ground speed. Another crucial part of the pre-flight calculations is the direction and speed of the wind. • SUMMER 2013

The aircraft’s flight speed is its speed relative to the air around it and factoring in the wind’s speed and direction is key to getting an estimated ground speed. An aviation map is also different from a regular map and all the usual ground markings are overlaid with important aerial information. The sky is a busy place, and is divided up into various airspaces, many of which require permission to enter. Our route took us over Callander, Oban, Mull and Coll and only required communication with the air traffic zones we passed through. Most airfields of any size require permission to land and this can be granted over radio, although it makes much more sense to phone in advance to avoid an unexpected refusal. The airfield will also be able to give you important information about landing there and answer any questions you may have. Once we’re past Callander the scenery becomes more mountainous and the miniature roads and dwellings are replaced by fantastic views over the Southern Highlands. We are cruising at around 3,000ft, which gives us a great perspective; high enough that we were safe and could see well ahead

but also low enough to not miss out on the little details. Flying in a light aircraft can be almost like looking over a miniature model of Scotland and you often spot interesting places for walking and visiting. It is like bringing your own mountain, thousands of feet higher than everything else, from which to view the landscape. We have now flown for about an hour and are about to cross the sea from Oban to Mull. I look at the map to see where we are and become momentarily confused – the large marking for Oban does not seem to correspond to the town on the ground. I quickly realise my mistake when I look to where I thought the map said Oban was, and I see instead a large strip of tarmac. Understandably, an aviation map is far more concerned with an airport, which could be a destination, than a settlement, which is only ever a landmark. Travelling above land, rather than sea, as much as possible for safety reasons, we fly over Mull to the Isle of Coll, where we turn southwest down the island towards Tiree. Pilots always know their aircraft’s gliding distance relative to their altitude and so any flying over water is done in a manner that will allow a descent to dry land in the event of an engine failure. We track down the west sides of these two islands and get great views of their beautiful coastlines. We are close to Tiree now and radio communication is established in a language foreign to those unfamiliar with aviation terminology, with much use of phonetic terms. Some of these – whisky, golf and hotel – seem quite appropriate to the landscape beneath us, others – Quebec,

Yankee, Zulu – are a bit more exotic. Once we have successfully landed and taxied to our space we head up the control tower to pay the landing fee. For larger aircraft, marshalling is necessary, but with light planes there is not much need. You don’t need to walk far from the terminal to get into the countryside and the ten-minute stroll down to a local general store provided a welcome leg stretch. On returning to the airport we see a FlyBe aircraft taxi up to the terminal and we fear we might face a slight delay. For reasons of security and practicality, the commercial aircraft has to be fully alighted, refuelled and then re-filled with passengers again before we can walk out to our aircraft. It’s an interesting moment as our day of recreational flying crosses paths with those for whom flying is a job, or a travelling necessity. Before long, we are back in the air and heading south to Islay. In order to minimise our time over water our route goes back via Mull, over to Jura and then south down towards Islay. Although such precautions add extra time to the journey, in the event of an engine failure they could be the difference between a safe emergency landing and a watery dip. The detour actually has the bonus of giving us an excuse to fly down the length of Jura in brilliant weather. There are few better ways to check out a place you have never been before and after seeing the island from the air I definitely want to visit it on foot sometime. Jura and Islay are close to each other and as we approach the coast of Islay it seems an ideal place for some low-level flying. There are various rules on

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FLYING FOR FUN

The ﬁre engine on standby at Tiree and, left, the route, passing Oban. Below: Sean Withams at the controls PHOTOGRAPHS: PADDY WITHAMS

low-altitude flying: to fly below 500ft you must not be within 500ft of any human, livestock, or POINTS TO CONSIDER settlement in any direction. Even in Scotland this is quite an uncommon circumstance so with the perfect IT COSTS about £5,000 to get a private pilot’s visibility and the empty coastline ahead of us, we licence – mainly due to the legal requirement to made the most of the situation and descended to have 45 hours of instruction, and for each hour an exhilarating level. you must pay for plane rental and fuel as After climbing back up to a more usual well as instruction. Tuition can be spread height, we make contact with air traffic over a period to make it more affordable. control and descend to Islay airport for Your best option may be to take Find out about prior a refuel and a cup of tea. This time we individual lessons to begin with and permission, refuelling, are marshalled into our space by see whether you enjoy it. handling and fees on ground staff and we refuel from a small Distance is given in nautical miles, hial.co.uk tanker before heading for the airport’s which equate to one minute of latitude. A great café, the Fly Cuppa. If we’d had nautical mile is 1.151 statute miles. more time we would have visited the Find out more on ukga.com/home/view. amazing beach at the end of the main runway but time is pressing and we have to get back in the air. The same view of Jura that amazed us on the way down is equally impressive on the way back and once we are back over mainland we soar through the widely spaced fluffy clouds, with the sun-soaked mountains below us. By 4pm we are back at the grass strip in Fife after crossing Scotland twice and visiting two of the west coast’s most beautiful islands. The joy of light aviation lies in the great distances that can be covered in a single day and the incredible views that come with it. It may not be a practical way of transporting your possessions, or reliable in bad weather, but in good conditions there are few better ways to see the land in which you live. ?

Learning to fly

• SUMMER 2013

MUNICH

MUNICH MUSTS THE CAPITAL OF BAVARIA IS GERMANY’S THIRD CITY IN SIZE, BUT IS SECOND TO NONE IN APPEAL. NIKOLA MOSSOP RECOMMENDS HER TOP TEN HIGHLIGHTS

• SUMMER 2013

Oktoberfest

In the countless tents of Oktoberfest punters can choose from a huge selection of German beers and culinary delights. The crowd really get into the spirit of the festival by dressing in traditional Bavarian gear, singing and dancing along with the brass bands and revelling in the bright lights of the funfair. Although a litre of beer will cost you around €9, admission is free and this is a great day out. 21 September - 6 October. oktoberfest.de/en/

The green-topped towers of the Frauenkirche and the ornate white carved stone of the New Town Hall dominate the Munich skyline

Walking tours These highly recommended free walks offer an inexpensive, educational and entertaining guided tour of the city’s historical and cultural sights. Head for the meeting-point at Marienplatz where you will find a number of tour guides – most popular are the Radius Tours (guides in blue and white chequered shirts) or Sandemans New Europe (guides in red t-shirts). Starting at 10.45am and 1pm, these daily tours last up to three hours and run to schedule come rain or shine. This is an excellent introduction to Munich and a great way of unravelling the city’s secrets.

PHOTOGRAPHS: BAYERN TOURISMUS MARKETING

Allianz Arena tour Enjoy a 60-minute tour of the world-renowned home of the newly crowned European football champions, Bayern Munich. See the dressing rooms where Messrs Robben, Ribery and Schweinsteiger pull on their strips, walk down the tunnel and out into the breathtaking arena. This guided tour provides a visual treat for anyone passionate about football or even anyone with a keen eye for impressive architecture. The tour costs €10 for adults and €6.50 for ages 6-13. allianz-arena.de/en/arenatour/ AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

MUNICH

Olympic Stadium Tour After days of sightseeing you might be in need of a bit of an adrenalin rush; this Olympic stadium tour may just be what you need. Those with a head for heights can climb the roof of the stadium whilst taking in the spectacular views of Munich and the Bavarian Alps. This guided tour lasts 120 minutes and there is the option of flying across the stadium on the Flying Fox. olympiapark.de/en/home/

The Olympic Stadium and its surroundings, right, are well worth a visit, while a bike tour, below, is ideal for getting your bearings. Far right: puppets are among the treasures at the City Museum

Mike’s Bike Tours

Discover the winding, ancient alleyways, meandering riverbanks and glorious parks of Munich all on this bike tour. There are a range on offer, but the standard tour, priced €25, is about four miles and lasts four hours. Your guide will provide a fun and informative tour of this bike-friendly city, and there’s a chance to quench your thirst at the Chinese Tower beer garden. mikesbiketours.com/munich/

• SUMMER 2013

Munchner Stadtmuseum If you want to add a touch of culture to your Munich trip then where better to start than the City Museum? Permanent exhibitions range from music, with fascinating and obscure instruments from all over the world, to puppet theatre and showmanship. The Typical Munich exhibition is in five sections, taking you from Munich's beginnings in the late 16th century to the post-war decades of the 20th century. This is a fantastic way to experience the remarkable history of Munich and at €6 per adult, it’s a must-see! muenchner-stadtmuseum.de/en.html

Feldmochinger See You might be lucky enough to experience sizzling temperatures during the summer months – and if you do, Feldmochinger See is just the place to cool down. With its fresh, clean water, this beautiful lake is perfect for swimming, relaxing and escaping the hustle and bustle. Access couldn’t be easier, simple take the S1 train straight to Feldmoching. bit.ly/15fSIrg

Jodlerwirt Leave behind the tourist hotspots and pay a visit to this hidden gem of a pub. With an accordionplaying host, stand-up comic, yodelling sessions and a great selection of beers and wines, you’ll be singing and swaying with fellow punters right into the wee small hours. jodlerwirt-muenchen.net/

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

Discover The Queen Mother’s Home in Caithness

CASTLE, GARDENS, SHOP & TEAROOM WITH ANIMAL CENTRE FOR CHILDREN

Open daily 1st May to 30th September 2013 Closed 30th July to 12th August 2013 inclusive* Castle open 10.20am to last entries 4.00pm Free parking - Limited disabled access *Dates subject to change, please see website

The Castle of Mey is situated on the north coast of Caithness just off the A836 between Thurso and John o’ Groats For further details please telephone 01847 851473 or www.castleofmey.org.uk

MUNICH

Getting there DESTINATION MUNICH Flybe ﬂy daily from Inverness to Amsterdam, from which there are direct ﬂights to Munich (and 300-plus other cities).

Eagle’s Nest Not only is the Eagle’s Nest of historical significance but it is also situated on top of Mount Kehlstein, boasting spectacular scenery of the Alps. Built by the Nazis for Hitler’s 50th birthday, it commands breathtaking views. Tours leave at 8.30am from opposite the main railway station. bit.ly/16u4uAX

Maximilianstrasse Fancy a taste of the high life? Maximilianstrasse, above, is the designer store hub, boasting names such as Gucci, Armani, Prada and Chanel. If you're looking to spend a small fortune, sip a cappuccino in one of the pavement cafés or merely enjoy some innocent window shopping then this exuberant street is well worth a visit. bit.ly/12dlprf  AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

DRINK

IT’S THE JET SET’S TIPPLE OF CHOICE – BUT IT WAS PIONEERED BY SCOTTISH CROFTERS DESPERATE TO TAKE THE EDGE OFF THEIR ROUGH SPIRITS

TIME FOR A

EVER SINCE the ﬁrst raw spirit dribbled off a still, people have mixed their drinks. In Scotland it was uisge beatha infused with heather or bog myrtle, perhaps sweetened with a little honey. This was not so that one crofter could appear more sophisticated than his neighbour, it was purely to make the spirit more palatable. Without the mellowing inﬂuence of time and wood, early whisky would have been the roughest moonshine imaginable. As the art of distillation improved and spirits became more polished, the idea of mixing for pleasure rather than merely to mask the pain, caught on. Yet for all its modern-day sophistication, the word ‘cocktail’ has earthy roots. Unscrupulous horse traders would insert a stub of ginger into a horse’s backside to give it a spring in its step and make its tail • SUMMER 2013

stand up proud, prior to selling the poor beast. The ﬁrst written mention connecting the cocktail to a drink was in a London newspaper in 1798, even though most Americans swear blind they invented it. Speakeasy Either way it implied the use of ginger or ‘bitters’ to spice up a spirit. When the American bartender, Jerry Thomas published his classic How to Mix Drinks, or the Bon Vivant’s Companion in 1862, he included ten cocktail recipes all involving bitters, among a host of slings, cobblers, ﬂips and sours. No-one knows when the cocktail became the generic term for all such drinks including the warmedup versions Victorians served to their children. The hot milk posset, which included

almond essence and a good tot of rum, was a prototype of Calpol. The Negus, a hot punch made from port, was “the beverage drink at children’s parties” according to Mrs Beaton’s ‘Book of Household Management’. The cocktail became a symbol of the jazz age and when US Prohibition came along in 1920, it slipped underground as something to enjoy furtively in a speakeasy, although the average shot of bathtub gin needed something to help it slip down. By the time Prohibition ended in 1933, the cocktail emerged with a strong American accent, led by the dry Martini. “When the Martini came out after the 1850s it was incredibly wet,” says Iain Grifﬁths of Bramble, a cocktail bar in Edinburgh. “It was two parts

gin to one part vermouth and sometimes even in equal parts.” Although Noel Coward famously denounced the use of vermouth, and suggested the drinker merely waft the glass in the vague direction of Italy, a dry martini in Bramble would be in the proportion of six to one, with the spirit always gin, of which Bramble stocks over 40 brands. “But if someone wants a vodka Martini, we’ll make it with a smile.” This is the cocktail popularised by James Bond. In the books he preferred Scotch and soda, and his creator, Ian Fleming, was a gin man, sometimes sinking a bottle a day until his doctor persuaded him that Bourbon might be marginally less harmful. Girly In the ﬁlms, vodka sounded more modern and linked to cold-war Russia where most of Bond’s early villains came from. The cocktail, as everyone knows, had to be “shaken not stirred”. On the lips of Sean Connery that sounded OK, but lapsed into self-parody with Roger Moore and was ﬁnally snuffed out by Daniel Craig in Casino Royale. When some hapless barman trots out the line to almost audible groans from the audience, he is met with a withering stare. “Do I look like I give a damn?” In complete contrast to the

black tie world of 007, are the big, fruity, rum-based cocktails and Hawaiian shirts that are part of Tiki culture. Today’s Tiki bars are all off-shoots of the original Don the Beachcomber’s Polynesian restaurant in 1930s Hollywood, and their resurgence has helped popularise rum. For some men, these brightly coloured drinks with cocktail umbrellas might seem too ‘girly’, but they pack a punch. The zombie, the drink that “gets you drunk from the bottom up”, to quote Billy Connolly, is not for the faint-hearted. Words: Tom Bruce-Gardyne

In the mix THREE TO TRY CAORUNN GIN 42% Harvey Nichols, Royal Mile Whiskies £27-30 Made at Speyside’s Blamenach distillery, this gin mixes the classic, juniper-led botanicals with local rowan berries, heather and bog myrtle for a decidedly fruity, cocktailfriendly gin.

Islay Festival of the Sea 2-3 August, Port Ellen

The Islay Festival of the Sea is an annual event celebrating the rich seafaring heritage of the island, its historic maritime associations with Ireland and is a showcase for fresh local produce, talent, unique culture and sportsmanship.

SAILING COASTEERING PADDLEBOARDING KAYAKING TUG O’ WAR ROWING REGATTA With a plethora of games and activities to satisfy a wide range of ages and interests. Including boatbuilding from Galgael and the Coracle Society, talks, exhibitions and food fair.

ACQUA RIVA REPOSADO TEQUILA 40% Waitrose £23.65 Mix this pure Agave tequila with pure agave syrup and lime juice for a beautiful, supposedly hangover-free, Margherita. ANGOSTURA WHITE RUM 37.5% Marks & Spencer £11.99 This smooth, citrusscented white rum from Trinidad and Tobago makes a ﬁne alternative to Bacardi and is perfect for simple Tiki cocktails at home.

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

+44 (0)1496 300 579 www.spangleﬁsh.com /islayfestivalofthesea

SPORT

OUBLE DDELIGHT TWO OPENS IN SCOTLAND A FEW DAYS APART? THERE’S NEVER BEEN A BETTER TIME FOR GOLF FANS

CHANCES ARE if you are heading north with your golf clubs you’ll have your eye on playing the worldclass Castle Stuart course. You’re not alone. Players now come from all over the world to test themselves beside the Moray Firth on some of the greatest holes set in the most beautiful surroundings you could imagine. There wasn’t always such a rush to play there. For the first few years after Castle Stuart opened in 2009 it remained Scotland’s secret golfing gem. That’s because those who knew about the quality of the course in the early days liked to keep quiet so they could enjoy it even more. Unfortunately for them, but happily for the rest of us, their cover was blown when the Scottish Open was first staged there two years ago. Television coverage raised the profile of the superb course – pictured above – and now discerning golf fans head to Castle Stuart whenever they are in the north of Scotland. The course will stage the Aberdeen Asset Management Scottish Open for a third year in from 11-14 July this summer before the event up sticks and moves to Royal Aberdeen in 2014.

Purists Castle Stuart will be saying goodbye in style as such is the quality of • SUMMER 2013

players in this years’ field and the beauty of the surroundings that American broadcast giant NBC is to show the tournament live throughout the States. It is the first European tour event to be given such exposure. It is not surprising that, as well as television crews, some of the world’s top players will flock to Castle Stuart for one final time as playing the course is perfect preparation for the Open – sometimes called the British Open for the sake of clarity, though this incenses the purists. The oldest of the four majors, and the only one held outside the US, it is being held the following week, starting on 18 July at Muirfield in East Lothian.

I have had the great fortune to play both courses and because Castle Stuart is ostensibly a seaside golf links crafted in the Highlands, it’s the perfect place for pros from around the globe to hone their skills ahead of their trip to Muirﬁeld. Interestingly Darren Clarke and Ernie Els played Castle Stuart in 2011 and 2012 respectively and

then went on to win the Open so the course is clearly a breeding ground for winners of the Claret Jug. This year I already have a few pounds bet on 1999 Open champion Paul Lawrie (pictured in action above) to fulﬁll his dream of winning his ﬁrst ever Scottish Open. I haven’t been bold enough to back him to do the double and go on to win the British Open but wouldn’t it be great if that happened in what is shaping up to be a great summer of golf for Scotland? Lawrie, who played a key role in Europe’s dramatic Ryder Cup victory over the USA at Medinah last year, has made no secret of his desire to win his own national tournament that is close to his heart. “I’ve always said if I was only ever to win one more title in my career it would be the Aberdeen Asset Management Scottish Open,’ Lawrie told aurora. “It’s my national Open, played just a couple of hours from my home in Aberdeen so it would be a huge honour to be champion. “It’s nice when you know that

people are walking round the course supporting you a little bit more than you would normally find elsewhere. And, of course, it is ideal preparation for The Open at Muirfield the following week.” A glance at the roll call of previous Scottish Open winners shows that some of the greats of the game such as Els, Luke Donald, Graeme McDowall, Retief Goosen and Ian Woosnam have all won the tournament that was first contested in 1972.

Impressive And can you name the first ever winner of the tournament that was staged at Downfield Golf Club in Dundee? Go to the top of the class if you remember that it was England’s Neil Coles who beat Brian Huggan of Wales in a play-off for the first ever Scottish Open title. The field back then was impressive and included the likes of Peter Oosterhuis, Bernard Gallacher, the 56-year-old former Open winner Max Faulkner and the 18-year-old Sam Torrance. In 1972 the total prize fund was £10,000, with Coles picking up the princely sum of £1,950 for winning. The prize fund at Castle Stuart this year will be £3 million with the winner receiving a cheque for

£500,000. Changed days indeed. Golfers’ bank balances aren’t the only thing that will be enhanced following their visit to Scotland as the economy of both the Highlands and East Lothian will be helped considerably by hosting these two great tournaments. More than 60,000 fans are expected at Castle Stuart, with about 100,000 likely to descend on Muirfield. Economic forecasts suggest that the Highlands will benefit to the tune of about £5 million through Castle Stuart hosting the Scottish Open. East Lothian will be about £25 million better off as a result of the Muirfield extravaganza. Everyone will be a winner – and if Paul Lawrie wins the Scottish Open I will be cheering the loudest before heading to the bookies for my winnings. Words: Rob Robertson

Tee for tickets FIND OUT MORE For Scottish Open ticket information, see aamscottishopen.com or call 0800 023 2557. For details on the Open at Muirﬁeld go to theopen.com

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

MOTORING

PRIMARY COOL

WHETHER YOURS IS BLACK, RED OR WHITE, THE MERCEDES-BENZ 350SL LOOKS FANTASTIC – AND THE PERFORMANCE DOES NOT DISAPPOINT

AFTER THE BEST part of half a century, Mercedes-Benz have finally come up with a flagship SL that looks good in all three of the primary sports car colours – black, red and white. Most Super Lecht models since the fabulous 300SL that was the company’s first post-war exotic, and the slightly less exciting 190 of the late Fifties and early Sixties, have managed to look good in, at best, only two of the primary colours. The new car has finally escaped the square, slabsided shape of subsequent SLs with carefully sculpted lines that owe every bit as much to art studio as engineering laboratory.

Beautiful This is far and away the most efﬁcient SL in history, yet in spite of being aerodynamically sound it has its own beauty, thanks in large part to those deeply scalloped ﬂanks. I can’t be the only one to have pondered its similarity to the orig• SUMMER 2013

inal Chevrolet Corvette which, despite being American, is one truly beautiful car. Having said all that, I simply couldn’t order the latest SL in red because, however attractive, it’s not really nice to rub other people’s noses in it when you are splashing out £72,140 for an indulgence in the middle of the longest recession in modern history. Mind you, as automotive indulgences go, this asking price for the entry level 350SL looks positively restrained beside the six ﬁgure price tags of its rivals from Bentley and Rolls-Royce. Unlike those, however, the SL will happily serve as daily, allweather transport thanks to the fact that you can park it most places without fear of envious vandalism and, courtesy of Merc’s leading-edge engine technology, you can reasonably expect 30 miles to the gallon in everyday use. Mercedes-Benz actually claims an astonishing 37mpg on the

combined cycle but my experience is of nearer 30mpg. This is, however, simply stupendous economy for a car that can get to 60mph from rest in under six seconds and needs to be electronically restrained to 155mph top speed. Part of the equation is the ultralight aluminium bodywork but there is a lot of clever energy saving and management in the 3.5 litre V6 engine and the standard seven-speed automatic gearbox.

Unique There is a ﬂappy paddle, manual change mode for the gearbox but such is the state of its art the gearbox does it better than man can do each and every time. Mercedes pioneered the modern folding hardtop with the smaller SLK and after more than a decade in service it has proved reliable enough to be used to get the top up and down for even the shortest of journeys. Driving with the top down in

Scotland’s best-selling guidebooks for cyclists.

In ﬁgures MERCEDES-BENZ 350SL Genre: Folding hard-top convertible Price: from £72,140 Top speed: 155mph 0-60mph: 5.9 seconds Combined economy: 37mpg

our climate is made even more practical thanks to the company’s unique airscarf system, which delivers warm air to the back of the neck and has now been made standard kit. Figure in the powerful twin climate control system and heating for the electrically adjustable seats and it is difﬁcult to get anything cold while driving the SL top down.

Satisfying Other standard fitments in additional to the usual fare of alloy wheels and quality sound system are leather trim and wood or chrome detailing. But while the commendably efficient ‘Command’ satnav and entertainment system that is fitted scores high on novelty value, I’m not convinced that it gets me there any faster than the navigations that came as standard on my phone. What the specifications don’t tell you is just how pleasant a car the SL is to live with, though the

marketing guys have gone a bit too far by hyping it as “your private jet for the road”. It is, though, a lovely way to travel from the minute you tug on the door handle to open what is one beautifully engineered door. It shuts with a satisfying double thunk and, comfortably seated, you can enjoy a satisfying look and feel of quality. There’s a lusty burble from the exhaust when you move off and this can be replaced by a raucous snarl if you plant the right foot and, as the performance ﬁgures conﬁrm, this is a seriously quick car if you really want it to be. But unless you’re very young, and very enthusiastic and probably a bit foolish, you probably realise that there’s a time and a place for laddish behaviour and that, most of the time, you simply want to get there comfortably and quickly. That’s why you buy a MercedesBenz SL. Words: Jim Dunn

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THINK CAREFULLY OR YOU COULD LOSE OUT WHEN SORTING OUT YOUR HOLIDAY CURRENCY

THERE ISN’T REALLY a painfree way to say this, so I promise to rip the Band-Aid off quickly. You will have less money to spend abroad this summer than last and unless something awful happens to the rest of the world between my writing this and you reading it, you will have less money than even when I put pen to paper. Politicians like to say the economic crisis is a global one – but when it comes to spending power abroad, the truth is we Brits alone are being hammered. The typical summer holiday spend of £1,000 is worth 5 per cent less in euros than it was this time last year, and if it’s US dollars you want, the decline has been even worse. Even those not planning on holidaying inside the eurozone or United States will ﬁnd that most holiday destinations (including the Middle and Far East) have currencies linked to one or other of these currencies. So faced with getting less for their pound, canny holidaymakers need to do some homework. Firstly there is a bafﬂing array of terms used when it comes to foreign exchange, deliberately so if you ask me. In fact economists have a term for it – confusion pricing – and yes • SUMMER 2013

it is designed to bafﬂe and bamboozle us into submission.

Fooled But I’m here to help. First up, don’t be fooled by phrases such as “commission free” or “0% commission”. You have to look beyond this to the underlying exchange rate. The big supermarkets and travel operators and Post Ofﬁce are not your friend. At the time of writing the difference between these and the best-buy foreign currency deal was between 20-30 euros (assuming £1,000 exchanged). That’s at least an extra round at the bar. Worst was the Post Ofﬁce, offering 1.14 to the pound, and top of the bunch, according to the information group Moneyfacts,was Best Foreign Exchange at 1.71. Next, if you are on a budget, or just don’t like your bank taking the mickey, then it is worth checking out what foreign loading fees (this is what the banks call the exchange rate they apply when a credit or debit card is used abroad), withdrawal fees and transaction fees your bank will apply. The number and size of these have been rising rapidly. Holidaymakers should not be tempted by “Dynamic Currency

Conversion”. I am not alone in considering this a scam, and I ﬁrmly believe that if banks weren’t so un-transparent in the exchange rates they apply to foreign purchases, people would not be tempted to opt for a sterling price when paying for a meal out. In short, after a few drinks, it might seem tempting to agree to the waiter’s suggestion that you pay in sterling but all the research shows that the exchange rate applied will mean the meal ends up costing more than if you paid in the local currency – which can really mount up over a two-week break. It might seem a tad “sad” to sit at home monitoring exchange rates, but an increasing number of Brits are doing just this. According to Consumer Intelligence, about 13 per cent of our fellow countrymen buy their foreign currency after tracking ﬂuctuations throughout the year and then hold on to it for as long as six months before they jet off on holiday. Anyone who bought their euros at the end of 2012 will have about £50 more to spend this summer than those shopping for the currency now (assuming £1,000 is exchanged). The difference for those travelling to the US is even

# # # greater â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an extra ÂŁ75 of spending power. If you are the type who plans ahead then you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to opt for hard cash when locking into a favourable exchange rate. Foreign currency cards will work just as well, as the exchange rate is ďŹ xed when the money is pre-loaded on to the card.

Surprises Foreign currency cards are the new kids on the block, and if the growth in both the number of providers and currencies on offer is anything to go by, they are hugely popular with budget-conscious travellers. The Post OfďŹ ce Travelcard is available in sterling, euros and US dollars, while the likes of FairFX, Caxton FX and Travelex can load up to 60 individual currencies on to their cards. It is important to look at the speciďŹ cs of the card, as well as how you will use it, as they are not all the same. The Post OfďŹ ce and Virgin apply a fee if the card is used to withdraw cash at ATMs (up to $2 a time with Virgin) while most providers apply a fee every time the card is topped up or reloaded with cash. On the plus side most foreign

currency card providers allow you to top-up your card online and will reimburse the money on the card if it is lost or stolen â&#x20AC;&#x201C; not something that is straightforward, or always possible, if you lose actual cash. One provider, ICE, even pays 1 per cent cashback on all purchases made with its card. So, to recap, if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to come back to any nasty surprises, in the form of bank surcharges, it is better to lock in an exchange rate before you leave. Be sure to read the small print on your travel insurance ďŹ rst, to ensure it covers you for lost and stolen cash, or opt for a provider that will issue a new card. Then all you need is some decent weather and great travel companions to guarantee a happy holiday.

# #

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Essentials

WHETHER YOU’RE A BUSINESS TRAVELLER OR A TOURIST, VISITING FAMILY OR GOING TO A MEETING, OUR HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS AIRPORTS GUIDE WILL POINT YOU TO THE BEST FOOD, ACCOMMODATION AND TRANSPORT LINKS

Sumburgh

Kirkwall Stornoway Stornoway Benbecula Wick Wick John O’Groats

Barra

Inverness Inverness

Tiree Tiree Dundee Islay Islay Campbeltown

• SUMMER 2013

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Barra

ESSENTIALS

FROM THE AIRPORT

Car hire: Call Barra Car Hire, 01871 890313, or MacMillan Self Drive, 01871 890366 before you arrive. Taxi: Book with Barra Island Taxis, 01871 810012, or J Campbell, 01871 810216. Bus: Runs between the airport and Castlebay. Details from R MacMillan, 01871 890366; H MacNeil, 01871 810262; cne-siar.gov.uk.

BON APPETIT

The CASTLEBAY HOTEL uses the best of Barra produce. Call 01871 810223 or see castlebayhotel.com.

SPOTLIGHT Munich Airport

In numbers

Munich Airport, or Flughaven Munchen Franz Josef Strauss, to give it its full name, is easily reached from Inverness Airport by flybe’s daily service to Amsterdam, then connecting KLM flight to Munich. Flights depart Inverness at 12.25, arriving at Amsterdam at 15.15; the Munich flight leaves at 18.00, arriving at 19.25.

FROM THE AIRPORT

Car hire: avis.co.uk +49 089 97597600 europcar.co.uk +49 089 9735020 hertz.co.uk +49 089 9788619 Taxi:

Plenty of cream-coloured taxis to be found at the airport – fare to city centre about 50 euros.

Bus:

Go to Area D at the airport to ﬁnd the Lufthansa airport bus, which leaves every 20 minutes for Munich’s main railway station, the Hauptbahnhof, via Munich-Schwabing (Nordfriedhof). Journey 45 minutes.

Train:

NIGHTCAP

On the S-Bahn electric train system, the S1 and S8 run to main stations in Munich including Marienplatz, Laim and Ostbahnhof. Choose the Day Ticket entire network for transfers to and from the airport (11.20 euros) and stamp your ticket at a machine on entering the S-Bahn before boarding the train, or risk a ﬁne.

0 1992 34.5 18 79 OTHER AIRPORTS NAMED AFTER THE FORMER BAVARIAN PRIME MINISTER

AIRPORT OPENED

MILLION PASSENGERS ANNUALLY

HOLES AT AIRPORT’S OWN MINI-GOLF COURSE

NIGHTCAP Alfredo Bar offers a range of regional beers.

BON APPETIT Airbraeu Brauhaus is a great place to eat.

PILLOW TALK There are a number of quality hotels close by and the luxurious Kempinski hotel is between Terminals 1 and 2.

AIRLINES OPERATE AT AIRPORT

The HEATHBANK BAR is in a former church whose thick walls enclose a bright bar with ﬁne views. Northbay, 01871 890266, barrahotel.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK Britain’s most westerly hotel, the ISLE OF BARRA BEACH HOTEL, looks over the sands of Tangasdale Beach, and makes the most of the island’s ﬁne lamb and ﬁsh. 01871 810383, isleofbarrahotel.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST Once you’ve landed, you’ve already seen the most famous sight – the beach landing strip. KISIMUL CASTLE is seat of the Clan MacNeil, and don’t miss the deserted village of BALNABODACH. The island is ideal for walking, cycling and wildlife watching.

WHAT’S ON

BARRA LIVE, held in a marquee on Tangasdale Machair, is the UK’s most westerly music festival, and one of the best, with a line-up including the Vatersay Boys, Wolfstone and Skerryvore. 26-27 July, barralive.co.uk. The always popular Barra and Vatersay PRODUCE SHOW is in Castlebay on 7 September.

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TIME TO TAKE THE PLUNGE AND TRY SOMETHING NEW

Benbecula FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Try MacLennans Garage, 01870 602191; Ask Car Hire, 01870 602818 or Laing Motors, 01878 700267, laingmotors.co.uk. Taxi: Book from Benbecula Taxis, 01870 602464, or MacVicar’s, 01870 603197. Bus: A regular service takes you to points all over Benbecula, North Uist and South Uist. For details see cnesiar.gov.uk/travel.

BON APPETIT

STEPPING STONES is popular for its delicious fare such as brochette of king scallops. Balivanich, 01870 603377.

NIGHTCAP Good selections of ales, wines and whiskies can be found at DARK ISLAND HOTEL, Liniclate, 01870 603030; ISLE OF BENBECULA HOUSE HOTEL, Creagorry, 01870 602024, isleshotelgroup.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK

LIONACLEIT GUESTHOUSE is comfortable and set on a croft, with seven rooms for B&B guests and two selfcatering cottages. 01870 602176, lionacleitguesthouse.com. At KYLES FLODDA, a

AGRICULTURAL SHOW on Hosta Machair on 7 August. The Island Book Trust has organised a walk from Loch Skipport to Usinish Lighthouse on 31 August. ALASDAIR MacEACHEN gives a talk on his journey to the South Atlantic at Lionacleit School on 20 September.

modern B&B overlooking North Uist, you’re well placed to explore nature. See kylesﬂodda.com. LANGASS LODGE at Loch Eport, North Uist, offers comfort and great cooking, using local game and seafood with garden herbs. 01876 580285, langasslodge.co.uk. On South Uist, the 18th-century POLOCHAR INN makes great use of local ingredients, and is in a great setting with an ancient standing stone. 01878 700215, polocharinn.com

Campbeltown FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Call Burbank Garage, 01586 544480, or Campbeltown Motor Co, 01586 552030. Taxi: Call Fona Taxis, 01586 554001; Roy’s Taxis, 01586 554625; Tavi’s Taxis, 01586 551122; Kintyre Connect Minibus Service, 07825 091502 or 07984 634824. Bus: Book ring-and-ride bus from airport by calling West Coast Motors, 01586 552319.

BE A TOURIST The scenery, ﬂora and fauna are spectacular so bring boots, camera and binoculars. The white beaches, lochs and hills calm the most troubled souls. Causeways link the island to North and South Uist.

WHAT’S ON

THE FRAGILITY OF FLIGHT is a series of bird-themed exhibitions and activities at Taigh Chearsabhagh, North Uist, until 27 July. Enjoy the HIGHLAND GAMES at Askernish, South Uist on 17 July, and Tigharry, North Uist on 19 July. Runners compete in the fairly arduous BEN KENNETH HILL RACE at Lochboisdale on 4 August. See the animals and produce at NORTH UIST

BON APPETIT

DALNASPIDAL is a great place to stay and serves a mix of Scottish and South African dishes. Dalnaspidal Guest House, Tangy, 01586 820466, dalnaspidal-guesthouse.com.

NIGHTCAP

BURNSIDE BAR is friendly and traditional. Burnside Square, 01586 552306.

PILLOW TALK

CRAIGARD HOUSE, an Italianate-style building, is a classy place to stay. Low Askomil, 01586 554242, craigard-house.co.uk.

Machrihanish, Kintyre

PHOTOGRAPH: AIDAN BRADLEY

BE A TOURIST The Mull of Kintyre gave its name to the UK’s biggestselling single. The record, featuring Campbeltown Pipe Band, was Paul McCartney’s love song to the area, which has many attractions. Walkers will like the KINTYRE WAY, where the view changes with every step, taking in Ireland, Islay, Jura and Arran. The glorious CAMPBELTOWN PICTURE HOUSE is the oldest cinema in Scotland. MACHRIHANISH golf course is one of the country’s ﬁnest.

WHAT’S ON

MULL OF KINTYRE MUSIC FESTIVAL, at various venues from 22-25 August, has pulled off a coup by signing up the Fratellis, who may no longer trouble the charts but put on an excellent show. Skipinnish are among other highlights. TARBERT MUSIC FESTIVAL, from 20-22 September, is always worth a visit, too.

Dundee FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Avis, Arnold Clark, Alamo and Europcar all serve the airport – call 01382 662200. Taxi: Booking in advance is advised. Call Tele Taxis on 01382 669333 or 50 50 50 Taxis on 01382 505050. Bus: The 8X bus runs Monday to Saturday, 6.30am10.30pm, every 30 minutes. Airport to city centre and railway station takes about ﬁve minutes. Train: For destinations and times call 08457 484950 or see nationalrail.co.uk.

BON APPETIT

NUMBER 25 is popular for its friendliness and value. South Tay Street, 01382 200399. The excellent BON APPETIT brasserie offers tempting dishes such as grilled red mullet with fennel and orange dressing and beetroot puree. Exchange Street, 01382 809000, bonappetitdundee.com.

NIGHTCAP

The SPEEDWELL TAVERN, aka Mennie’s, has a ﬁne Edwardian interior and many whiskies. Perth Road, 01382 667783, speedwell-bar.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK Looking over the waterfront, the APEX is a modern comfort zone with a spa and a good restaurant. West Victoria Dock Road, 0845 365 0000, apexhotels.co.uk.

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ESSENTIALS

this city is for you. The OVERGATE SHOPPING CENTRE is a great place to browse, DCA (Dundee Contemporary Arts) has an ever-changing programme of exhibitions and a great café. For maritime history visit Captain Scott’s ship, the RRS DISCOVERY, or HM FRIGATE UNICORN, the oldest Britishbuilt ship still aﬂoat. The SENSATION science centre, with its 60 hands-on exhibits, will excite youngsters’ curiosity.

WHAT’S ON

AFRICAN PRAISE AND GOSPEL ﬁlls the Caird Hall with stirring sounds on 27 July, and the venue hosts the ST PETERSBURG STRING QUARTET on 27 September. ROCK PHOTOGRAPHY by Harry Papadopoulos is on show at the McManus until 11 August. PARADE, a musical about a miscarriage of justice in the Deep South, is on at Dundee Rep from 7-10 August, and THE BERRIES, a play about berry-pickers in the ﬁelds of Kirriemuir, runs from 21-24 August.

Inverness FROM THE AIRPORT

Car hire: Options include Avis, 0844 544 6017, Europcar, 0871 384 1121, and Arnold Clark, 0845 607 4500. Taxi: Book with Inverness Taxis on 01463 222900. See inverness-taxis.co.uk. Bus: Airport bus goes to the city centre for £3.75 single. Stagecoachbus.com or 01463 239292 for other routes. Train: Nearest stations are Inverness and Nairn. See scotrail.com for times.

BON APPETIT

The MUSTARD SEED is rightly busy. 16 Fraser Street, 01463 220220, themustardseed restaurant.co.uk. CAFE1, despite its name, is very much a restaurant, emphasing seafood and quality cuts. 75

Castle Street, 01463 226200, cafe1.net. RIVER HOUSE RESTAURANT, a bright restaurant overlooking the Ness, impresses by using resources of the region. 1 Greig Street, 01463 222033, riverhouseinverness.co.uk. THE KITCHEN, also with striking river views, is deservedly popular. 15 Huntly Street, 01463 259119, kitchenrestaurant.co.uk.

NIGHTCAP

NUMBER 27 is a bright bar with arcane beers served by friendly staff. 27 Castle Street, 01463 241999, number27inverness. co.uk. Folkies, ceilidh bands and comedy can all be enjoyed at HOOTANANNY’S, 61 Church Street, 01463 233651, hootananny.co.uk. By day the FOUNDRY is a relaxing café. After 8pm it does a brisk trade in beers, wines and cocktails. 28 Church Street, 01463 713005, foundryinverness.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK Luxury is the order of the day at ROCPOOL RESERVE, but it’s not beyond affordable. Culduthel Road, 01463 240089, rocpool.com. The KINGSMILLS HOTEL, set elegantly in four acres of gardens, offers family rooms and two-bedroom, twobathroom apartments. Look out for a thank you letter from Robert Burns, who stayed here in 1787. The leisure club and spa will revitalise you. Culcabock Road, 01463 237166, kingsmillshotel.com. The ROYAL HIGHLAND HOTEL has been much-loved for over a century and a half. In the middle of town, it’s Victorian splendour at its best. Station Square, 01463 251451, royalhighlandhotel.co.uk. TRAFFORD BANK GUEST HOUSE, once home to a bishop, is a delightful place to stay. Each bedroom has a mix of antique and modern furniture. Fairﬁeld Road, 01463 241414, traffordbankguesthouse.co.uk. The luxurious CASTLE

STUART, close to Inverness Airport, is a 17th-century tower in its own private grounds. 01463 790745, castlestuart.com.

BE A TOURIST This wonderful city offers delightful RIVERSIDE WALKS and is an enjoyable place to shop. The hinterland is studded with castles and distilleries, many of which offer whisky tastings. The FLORAL HALL is an oasis of peace. Take a boat trip on LOCH NESS to search for the monster, visit nearby BRODIE CASTLE or CAWDOR CASTLE, wander on CULLODEN MOOR, where the Jacobite Rising was crushed in 1746. Equally atmospheric are the prehistoric CLAVA CAIRNS, a group of burial mounds in unspoilt woodland.

WHAT’S ON

INVERNESS BOOK FESTIVAL, 7-10 August, is celebrating its 10th anniversary, so a strong line-up is assured. Indy fans can catch the CRIBS at the Ironworks on 13 August. The LOCH NESS DUATHLON, on 24 August, is a 60k cycle and a 7k trail run. DUNSINANE, by David Greig, starring Siobhan Redmond as Lady Macbeth, is a summer highlight at Eden Court from 24-31 August. Author NEIL GAIMAN appears at the Ironworks on 28 August, with the MAGIC NUMBERS playing an acoustic set there on 19 September. The BAXTERS LOCH NESS MARATHON is on 29 September.

Islay FROM THE AIRPORT

Car hire: Booking in advance is advisable, with Islay Car Hire on 01496 810544 or D and N Mackenzie on 01496 302324. Taxi: Call Carol MacDonald Taxis on 01496 302155, Fiona’s Taxis on 01496 301622, Lamont’s Taxis on 01496 810449 or Rhinns Taxis

on 01496 850170. Bus: Most places on the island are linked by B Mundell’s bus. Call 01496 840274 or ask at information desk.

BON APPETIT

The HARBOUR INN serves beef, lamb and seafood with style, in a scenic setting. Bowmore, 01496 810330, harbour-inn.com.

NIGHTCAP There’s a superb choice of malt whiskies at the LOCHSIDE HOTEL. Bowmore, 01496 810244, lochsidehotel.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK Charming rooms, great food and a beautiful location make the PORT CHARLOTTE HOTEL a great place to stay. 01496 850360, portcharlottehotel.co.uk. Friendly, historic, handy for all parts of the island, the BRIDGEND HOTEL is committed to local produce. 01496 810212, info@bridgend-hotel.com. AN TAIGH-OSDA is a cool hotel in Bruichladdich, overlooking Loch Indaal. 01496 850587, antaighosda.co.uk. KILMENY COUNTRY HOUSE is a small luxury hotel near Port Askaig. Occupying a great vantage point, it is set within woods and farmland. There are four colour-themed bedrooms and a suite. 01496 840668, kilmeny.co.uk. COILLABUS ECO DWELLINGS are two luxury cottages on the wild Oa peninsula. Each sleeps four and has a hand-made hot tub. Built with reclaimed wood and stone, the cottages have turfed roofs. 01852 200565, coillabus.com. The ISLAY HOTEL, in Port Ellen, has been rebuilt, and its pristine white walls shine out over the harbour, while the wood inside is warm and welcoming. Call 01496 300109. The OLD EXCISE HOUSE at Laphroaig is comfy, historic, welcoming – and walking distance from three distilleries. 01496 302567, theoldexcisehouse.com. The

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The Italian Chapel, Orkney

ISLAND BEAR, on the main street in Bowmore, is a recent, very tasteful addition to the island’s B&B options. 01496 810375, islandbear.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST Islay is much less crowded and commercial than, say, Skye or Mull, yet its attractions are just as powerful. Not least is its status as a stronghold of whisky making, and all eight DISTILLERIES are open to visitors at various times. The island is a superb destination for walkers, anglers and birdwatchers. Autumn is the time to see geese by their tens of thousands – barnacle, brent, white-fronted, greylag and others. For a historical day out, it’s hard to beat FINLAGGAN, the ancient seat of the Lords of the Isles, and though the buildings are ruins, the site, beside a beautiful loch, is atmospheric. The ISLAY WOOLLEN MILL, at Bridgend, made the Highland tweed gear sported by Mel Gibson and Liam Neeson in their historical epics. Its shop is well worth a visit. 01496 810563, islaywoollenmill.co.uk. The MUSEUM OF ISLAY LIFE, at Port Charlotte, has exhibits dating from 8000BC to the 20th century and countless

books and pictures. 01496 850358, islaymuseum.org.

WHAT’S ON Runners compete in the ARDBEG ISLAY HALFMARATHON on 3 August. See the best of the island’s animals, produce and much more at the ISLAY SHOW on 8 August. Perhaps the most spectacular event in the Islay calendar, the AIR SHOW, is at Isdlay Airport on 10 August. The RSPB run regular GUIDED WALKS at Loch Gruinart and The Oa – see rspb.org.uk. Neighbouring Jura has its MUSIC FESTIVAL from 27-29 September.

Kirkwall FROM THE AIRPORT

Car hire: Call WR Tullock on 01856 875500. Taxi: Call Bob’s Taxis on 01856 876543, Craigies Taxis on 01856 878787, George’s Taxis on 07541 034830 or Stromness Taxis on 01856 852852. Bus: The Jet bus operated by Stagecoach in Orkney runs all day – for times call the ﬁrm on 01856 870555 or the airport information desk on 01856 886210. See stagecoachbus. com for other Orkney routes.

BON APPETIT

LUCANO is named after

Lucania, southern Italy, where the owner hails from, and this bright restaurant sticks to its roots, with the emphasis on good, fresh ingredients. 31-33 Victoria Street, Kirkwall, 01856 875687, lucanokirkwall.com.

NIGHTCAP

HELGI’S is Viking-inspired and very tasteful, with its slate ﬂoor, wood panelling and cosy atmosphere. A great place to enjoy real ale, good coffee and home baking. Albert Street, 01856 879293.

PILLOW TALK

At historic WOODWICK HOUSE if you want a walk in the woods or on the beach, both are yards away. Evie, 01856 751330, woodwickhouse.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST Kirkwall is enjoyable to wander around, with a busy harbour, narrow streets, lively pubs and the stately ST MAGNUS CATHEDRAL. Further aﬁeld, renowned archaeological wonders vie for attention. Perhaps the best of all is the prehistoric village of SKARA BRAE, with its perfectly intact shelves and doorways. Also stunning is the chambered tomb of MAESHOWE, with its passage carefully aligned so

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that the winter solstice sun shines through it to illuminate the chamber. The RING OF BRODGAR is up there with Callanish and Stonehenge in the standing stones league table, and the BROUGH OF BIRSAY, a tidal island rich in Norse ruins and birdlife, is an unforgettable place. The Neolithic TOMB OF THE EAGLES on South Ronaldsay is also worth a visit – you slide in on a large homemade skateboard. Just as intriguing is the ornate ITALIAN CHAPEL, painted by Italian prisoners during the Second World War. ORKNEY BREWERY, where beers such as Dark Island and Skull Splitter are made for a growing tribe of fans, is well worth a visit, with tours of the brewhouse and fermentation rooms and an appealing café.

WHAT’S ON

SHOPPING WEEK, 21-27 July, gives Stromness a party atmosphere, with a variety of events. Many of the islands hold agricultural shows, the biggest being the COUNTY SHOW in Kirkwall on 10 August. Two notable festivals are the INTERNATIONAL SCIENCE FESTIVAL, 5-11 September, and the BLUES FESTIVAL, 20-22 September. Stromness Museum is holding an exhibition until the end of October on the Orcadian doctor and explorer JOHN RAE to mark the 200th anniversary of his birth.

Stornoway FROM THE AIRPORT

Car hire: Carhire Hebrides has its ﬂeet based at the airport. Call 01851 706500 or see carhire-hebrides.co.uk. Taxi: Order from Castle Cabs, 01851 704636, before your arrival, pick one up at the terminal or call airport information, 01851 702256. Bus: Hourly service to town centre, Monday to Saturday. Visit cne-siar.gov.uk/travel.

Book now! Making flying better.

BON APPETIT At the elegant PARK RESTAURANT you might start with seafood ﬁlo baskets, moving on to Lewis lamb shank and spicy mint couscous. 30 James Street, 01851 702485, theparkguesthouse.co.uk. Booking is essential at DIGBY CHICK restaurant, which has two menus – one for early birds, and an à la carte from 7pm. Expect ultra-fresh ingredients, expertly prepared. 5 Bank Street, 01851 700026, digbychick.co.uk. AN LANNTAIR is a thriving arts centre with workshops, a cinema and gallery. The restaurant and bar overlooks the harbour, and serves food from 10am till late. Kenneth Street, 01851 703307, lanntair.com.

NIGHTCAP MCNEILLS is a cosy bar with live music. 11 Cromwell Street, 01851 703330. The STAR INN is small but has a good selection of spirits. 13 South Beach, 01851 702289.

PILLOW TALK

Brodie Castle, Inverness

BROAD BAY HOUSE, a fine guesthouse, is at Back, on the coast seven miles north of Stornoway. Its spacious rooms, furnished in solid oak, have wi-fi and iPod docks. 01851 820990, broadbayhouse.co.uk. The three-star CABARFEIDH HOTEL, a mile from the town centre, scores highly for cuisine and service. Manor Park, Perceval Road South, 01851 702604, cabarfeidhhotel.co.uk. HOLM VIEW GUEST HOUSE is minutes from the airport. This fourstar, five-bedroom house has splendid sea views and a host who goes out of his way to ensure that guests enjoy their stay. 18 Rathad na Bhraighe, 01851 706826. BRAIGHE HOUSE, overlooking the sea just a few minutes from the airport, has five immaculate

bedrooms and serves a superb breakfast billed as the Stornoway Stack. 20 Braighe Road, 01851 705287, braighehouse.co.uk. At Leverburgh, on Harris, AM BOTHAN is a new ﬁve-star bunkhouse with great views.

BE A TOURIST Stornoway is a great place to relax and explore. Spend time at the harbour, watching the ﬁshermen unload their catches – which you could be eating in a couple of hours. Be sure to see CALLANISH, one of Britain’s most magical places. No-one knows the exact purpose of these ancient standing stones, but their power is undeniable. Nearby, DUN CARLOWAY BROCH is a magniﬁcent Iron Age tower you can explore.

WHAT’S ON The Island Book Trust is running a BOAT TRIP from Husinish, Harris, to Mealista Island on 3 August. SCOTLAND CREATES is a series of weather-inspired dance and animation workshops at Ness, Stornoway and Bays of Harris Community Centre. The HARRIS ARTS FESTIVAL, from 1-17 August, is a mix of music, drama and crafts.

Sumburgh FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Call Star Rent-a-Car on 01950 460444. Taxi: Call Boddam Cabs on 01950 460111, J & I Taxis on 01950 422207 or Allied Taxis on 01595 690069. Bus: A regular airport bus takes you to Lerwick in about 40 minutes. Call John Leask & Sons on 01565 693162.

BON APPETIT BUSTA HOUSE deserves its reputation among foodies. Busta, 01806 522506, bustahouse.com. The SCALLOWAY HOTEL twins stunning waterfront views with a high-quality menu that makes a feature of Shetland’s excellent seafood. Main

be a

PHOTOGRAPH: SCOTTISH VIEWPOINT

ESSENTIALS

Callanish Standing Stones, Lewis

Street, Scalloway, 01595 880444, scallowayhotel.co.uk.

NIGHTCAP THE LOUNGE is a busy pub in Lerwick, good for live music. Mounthooly Street, 01595 692231

PILLOW TALK The 32-room SUMBURGH HOTEL, very handy for the airport, is friendly and comfortable. 01950 460394, sumburghhotel.com.

BE A TOURIST Beside the airport is one of Shetland’s principal sights – JARLSHOF. It contains remains from 2,500BC up to the 17th century, making it a fascinating place to visit. MOUSA BROCH is the best preserved Pictish tower in the country. WILDLIFE is a Shetland strong suit, with Arctic skuas, great northern divers and killer whales among species to spot. On Yell the SHETLAND GALLERY aims to showcase the islands’ best contemporary art.

WHAT’S ON The SCOTTISH ENSEMBLE bring folk and classical music together with a concert at Mareel on 3 August. From 411 August, at the same venue, FIDDLE FRENZY features top

talents including Lau, Fiddler’s Bid and Aly Bain, celebrating the islands’ glorious musical tradition. Shetland Museum and Archives is running CHILDREN’S WORKSHOPS throughout the summer.

Tiree FROM THE AIRPORT Car and bike hire: Call MacLennans, 01879 220555. Taxi: Order from John Kennedy Taxis, 01879 220419. Bus: The on-demand dial-abus is on 01879 220419.

BON APPETIT CEABAR is a guest house with a very popular restaurant commanding great sunset views. Booking advised. 01879 220684, ceabar.com.

NIGHTCAP The TIREE LODGE HOTEL is a popular, often lively pub at Gott Bay, 01879 220368.

PILLOW TALK ROCKVALE GUEST HOUSE is a friendly, comfortable place to stay, with a lovely, bright lounge. 01879 220675, rockvaletiree.co.uk. The charming SCARINISH HOTEL offers simple, beautifully cooked food. After eating, relax in the Lean To bar.

LAIRD For more information call 0844 493 2108

01879 220308, tireescarinishhotel.com. KIRKAPOL HOUSE is a converted Victorian church beside the sea. The hosts are happy to collect guests from the airport and will supply packed lunches. 01879 220729, kirkapoltiree.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST

AN IODHLANN is the island’s historical centre and the place to shed light on your Tiree ancestry. See aniodhlann.co.uk or call 01879 220793. The RINGING STONE is a boulder, probably dumped by a glacier, which makes a metallic clang when hit with another stone. DUN MOR, at Vaul, is a broch, or place of refuge, built in about 60AD. Tiree is one of the UK’s windiest places, and also among the sunniest and most beautiful, with white, sandy beaches. See isleoftiree.com.

WHAT’S ON

TIREE REGATTA, on 3 August, will be spectacular whether you’re competing or watching.

Wick John O’Groats FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Book with Dunnetts Garage on 01955 602103, Richards Garage on 01955 604123, Europcar on 01667 462052 or National Car Hire on 01463 238084. Taxi: Call Jimmy’s Taxis on 01955 602727, Johnnie’s Taxis on 01955 605041 or Millers Taxis on 01955 606464. Bus: Stagecoach 82 and 182 buses stop at the airport, providing connections to Wick and Thurso. The 25X links Wick with Inverness. For times see stagecoachbus.com or call 01463 239292. Train: Wick station is 1.5 miles from the airport, with trains to Thurso and Inverness and stations between.

NIGHTCAP

The ALEXANDER BAIN, named after the Wick man who invented the electric clock, is a bright, roomy bar, serving a good choice of ales and bar meals. 01955 609920. The PORTLAND ARMS is an atmospheric and cosy former coaching inn in Lybster. 01593 721721, portlandarms.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK

The QUAYSIDE B&B is friendly and every room has a harbour view. Harbour Quay, 01955 603229, quaysidewick.fsnet.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST

WICK HERITAGE MUSEUM has won awards for its displays on the town’s history as a ﬁshing port and centre for glass-making and distilling. CAITHNESS HORIZONS, in Thurso, is a must-visit museum, with much to see and regular events. TIMESPAN, in Helmsdale, is a superb attraction loved by genealogists and casual visitors alike. JOHN O’ GROATS is the most northerly settlement in mainland Britain and is being transformed. A few miles west is the CASTLE OF MEY, with its ornate turrets and walled garden. The FLOW COUNTRY, Europe’s biggest blanket bog, is a striking landscapes, with a bleak appearance but a wealth of birdlife. Ruined CASTLE SINCLAIR GIRNIGOE is a ﬁne sight.

WHAT’S ON

TIMESPAN, at Helmsdale, is hosting a series of events from 2-18 August, including a lifeboat day, ﬂower show and ceilidh, to mark the bicentenary of the Kildonan Clearances.

BON APPETIT

The CAPTAIN’S GALLEY, a superb seafood restaurant serves local produce in converted ice house and bothy. The Harbour, Scrabster, 01847 894999, captainsgalley.co.uk.

HEATHROW CONNECTIONS

Need to get to Heathrow? It’s easily done from airports served by regular ﬂights from Inverness and Dundee. Journey times are approximate.

 From Luton A pre-booked taxi from Prestige Airport Cars takes 50 minutes, from £55. A National Express coach takes 1 hour 5 minutes and costs £21.90.

 From Gatwick A pre-booked taxi from Prestige Airport Cars takes 45 minutes, from £45. A National Express coach takes 1 hour and costs £25.

 From London City A pre-booked taxi from Riverside Cars takes 1 hour 15 minutes, from £50. It costs £5.30 and takes 1 hour 40 minutes to transfer via Docklands Light Railway (DLR) to Canning Town, Jubilee line tube to Green Park and Piccadilly line tube to Heathrow. Or take the DLR to Canning Town, Jubilee line tube to Baker Street, Bakerloo line tube to Paddington (1 hour) then Heathrow Express, which leaves Paddington every 15 minutes and takes 15 minutes to reach Heathrow. This costs a total of £24.30. Transferring by National Express coach involves two changes and takes 3 hours plus, so is not the best option.

Contact Prestige Airport Cars: 03331 231818 or prestigeairportcars.co.uk Riverside Cars: 020 7231 7766 or riversidecarslondon.com National Express: 08717 818181 or nationalexpress.com For train and tube information see tﬂ.gov.uk

For ﬂight and booking information visit

hial.co.uk highlands & islands airports

Local access, global outlook

for a weekend or visit www.ntsholidays.com

MY SUMMER

Rachel Sermanni HER SONGS ARE TAKING HER ALL AROUND THE WORLD NOW, BUT THIS OUTSTANDING HIGHLAND TALENT IS QUITE HAPPY AT HOME

’M REALLY looking forward to going on holiday with my family. We’re going to Brittany and we’ll be near a beach, so there’ll be lots of outdoor happenings. It’ll be an active, sunny holiday. I’m an outdoors person, having been brought up going to the west coast for holidays. We used to go kayaking, gorge walking and hill climbing. I’ve done more Munros on the west coast than I have on our doorstep in the Cairngorms. I’ve done skiing here, but not much climbing so far. I’ve been touring for months. I did a UK tour, then played in Toronto and stayed for two weeks to soak up the atmosphere. I did Tartan Week in New York then a European tour starting in Holland and went to Leichtenstein, Austria, Italy… then I toured Ireland. Plans are afoot to go back to Canada for festivals in Dawson City and Calgary. I get excited rather than nervous. It makes a difference when the atmosphere’s there – the aim is to connect. I’m proud of everything I’ve done. I don’t really look forward. I like looking back sometimes and think wow, how did that happen? I love the conception of an idea and the

• SUMMER 2013

writing of the song, but it’s much harder when you’re busy, because you don’t have time. I used to be in my room every night, going through scraps and notes. I didn’t want any pressure to do a second album. I don’t foresee an album coming very soon and I don’t think people will mind. I’m thankful that I’m not signed to a label so I’ve got no overseers going “excuse me, we want to hear demos”. I’ve never had that pressure and I’m going to make the most of that and hopefully create something that feels alive. It’ll come when it comes. I want to continue exploring and being creative. I’m not ambitious to be some sort of major famous success – that’s not in my sights at all. But I have small ambitions – I’d like to be able to drive a car this year, and I’d like one day to have a house on a hill. As well as this main river that I run along, the songwriting thing, I’m quite into healing. I explore alternative therapy and medicine, and I really like to draw. I’m in a very happy place right now, which is this place. Home… Carrbridge.  Rachel Sermanni plays the Queen’s Hall, Edinburgh, on 9 August and Doune the Rabbit Hole, near Stirling, on 25 August. Her album, Under Mountains, is on Middle of Nowhere. rachelsermanni.net

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