Aurora autumn 2013 by Aurora Magazine

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Park

life

TEN YEARS OF SUCCESS IN THE CAIRNGORMS

AUTUMN 2013 ISSUE

PLUS

Alps alert

On the hop

My autumn

SLOPE OFF It’s never been easier to reach Europe’s finest ski resorts from the Highlands

PINT-SIZED Small beer is proving to be big business in brewing’s bold new age of independence

PAUL MURTON For his latest history-inspired television series, Paul explores Scotland’s finest islands

OUR PICK OF AUTUMN EVENTS

CHECK IN

CONTRIBUTORS RICHARD ROWE

As editor of the magazine for members of the John Muir Trust, which strives to protect wild landscapes, Richard was the ideal candidate to write our feature marking 10 successful years of the Cairngorms National Park. He also founded Scotland Outdoors magazine and remains a key contributor, writing about conservation and outdoor activities. Based at Innerleithen, in the Borders, he has a young daughter and lively dog to keep him busy, but has also found the time to write a number of wildlife books.

WELCOME … to the autumn issue of

aurora, the magazine for all customers of Highlands and Islands Airports. We constantly strive to improve services at our 11 airports – Barra, Benbecula, Campbeltown, Dundee, Inverness, Islay, Kirkwall, Stornoway, Sumburgh, Tiree and Wick John O’Groats.

PAUL MURTON

Currently to be seen on our television screens presenting Grand Tours of the Scottish Islands for BBC One Scotland, Paul is a leading maker of travel programmes that combine history, landscape, conservation, human interest and humour. Previous series have included Grand Tours of Scotland and Scotland’s Clans. We were delighted when he agreed to contribute the ‘My Autumn’ page for this issue of aurora.

We’re fortunate in the Highlands to have several great places to ski – but sometimes it’s nice to fly to the Alps for some sun and continental après-ski. Read in this issue about all-inclusive skiing holidays in Switzerland and France, flying direct to Geneva from Inverness. Other features celebrate two Highland success stories. We look at the huge achievements of the Cairngorms National Park, 10 years old this year, which has done much to safeguard the environment while encouraging economic development in this beautiful part of the world.

DAN HILLIER

How often do you take a few minutes to look up at the stars? If the answer is “never”, then you should try it – and getting started is easy. Find out how from our Viewpoint column, by Dan, who is visitor centre manager at the Royal Observatory Edinburgh, and also leader of the Dark Sky Discovery network, which points people to good sites all over the country from which to look at the night sky.

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We also speak to some of the people behind the astonishing rise of independent breweries. There are at least 60 in Scotland, some of them beginning to rival the established giants, others content to stay small while striving to make their beer even better. It’s a cheering tale of enterprise and dedication. Whichever of our airports you’re using today, have a good journey and enjoy your magazine. Inglis Lyon, Managing Director Highlands & Islands Airports Limited AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

CONTENTS

AWARD-WINNER Scottish Customer Magazine of the Year

24 Air travellers’ magazine autumn 2013 Volume 5 number 3 Managing editor Editor Senior designer Designer Advertising executive

• • • • •

Neil Braidwood Don Currie Matt McArthur Fiona Wilson Hayley Orr

0131 556 2220 aurora-mag.com CONTRIBUTORS Tom Bruce-Gardyne, Michael Gill, Jim Dunn, Dan Hillier, Marie-Helene Jeeves, Paul Murton, Rob Robertson, Lindsey Rogerson, Andrew Ross, Richard Rowe

FOR HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS AIRPORTS LTD Megan Westmoreland 01667 464212 mwestmoreland@hial.co.uk

You’re never too young to ski

Aurora magazine (ISSN: 1759-9717) is published four times a year by CMYK Design. The magazine is free to airport users. Follow us on Twitter: @aurora_mag CMYK Design, 91 East London Street, Edinburgh EH7 4BQ. Tel: 0131 556 2220. Email: editor@aurora-mag.com Web: cmyk-design.co.uk © CMYK Design 2013 Please note that unsolicited manuscripts are not accepted. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without prior permission. Editorial material and opinions expressed in aurora do not reﬂect the views of Highlands & Islands Airports Ltd or the publisher. Highlands & Islands Airports Ltd and the publisher do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Products and services are subject to change without prior notice. Highlands & Islands Airports Ltd, Inverness Airport, Inverness IV2 7JB Printed in the UK by Pensord

Micro brewing is growing bigger highlands & islands airports

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24 AUTUMN CONTENTS

Our cover The capercaillie is one of the most distinctive birds of the Cairngorms National Park, celebrating 10 years of success. PHOTOGRAPH: LAURIE CAMPBELL

Regulars

Features

06 News

14 Autumn action

Find out what’s happening in your region and beyond

There’s a chill in the air – but plenty of events in the ofﬁng to help you turn up the heat

10 The big picture Sheer cliffs look spectacular – especially when seen from above

13 Viewpoint The night sky is well worth a close look, suggests Dan Hillier

Competitions

win

Tickets to the Country Living Fair, page 35; A signed copy of Olympic gold medal winning rower Katherine Grainger’s book, page 37

34 Drink It’s all change on the distilling front, notes Tom Bruce-Gardyne

36 Sport

18 Ten great years

Rowing is buoyant just now, and Rob Robertson knows why

The Cairngorms National Park’s ﬁrst triumphant decade is celebrated by Richard Rowe

38 Motoring

The Mazda 6 has the performance Jim Dunn has been looking for

40 Money Outﬂank the banks with a peer-topeer loan, says Lindsey Rogerson

24 Alps direct

43 Essentials

Enjoy Alpine snowsports with inclusive holidays and direct ﬂights to Geneva from Inverness

All you need to know about wherever you’re ﬂying today

50 My autumn Paul Murton is well travelled, but he still ﬁnds Scotland surprising

27 Brewing up Big brewers have long been dominant – but they are now under threat from micro-rivals, writes Andrew Ross AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

NEWS

Quality corner THE north-east corner of Scotland is on the up, with the opening of the much-acclaimed Natural Retreats holiday destination at John O’Groats. With its luxury eco-lodges and opportunities to go on sea safaris to spot killer whales and sea birds, this development is already proving a shot in the arm to Caithness. Another boost comes with the introduction of extra ﬂights to Wick John O’Groats Airport. Two extra Flybe services, operated by Loganair, between the airport and Edinburgh on Fridays have been timed to improve connections to Birmingham, Manchester, Belfast, East Midlands and Southampton. In further timetable improvements, an extra four services per week between Shetland and Glasgow are to be introduced from 4 November. Again, connections to other UK airports will be enhanced as a result. For more details see hial.co.uk.

Measure of success SANDSTONE Press, of Dingwall, seems to be going from strength to strength, with the independent publisher’s latest triumph being The Tailor of Inverness, by Matthew Zajac. It’s the very personal and intriguing tale of how Zajac began to research his family tree and discovered that his late father’s wartime experiences in Poland and the Ukraine before setting up as a tailor in the Highland capital were not quite as he had recounted them.

THE city of Inverness has the “best small airport in Scotland” according to members of the consumers’ organisation, Which? Inverness airport beat Aberdeen and Prestwick airports in the poll. Graeme Bell, airport manager, said: “We continue to develop new services and were the ﬁrst airport in Scotland to introduce free wiﬁ.”

• AUTUMN 2013

Zajac, who is artistic director of the Dogstar theatre company, had already had great international success with his stage play of the same title, but the book version lets him go into much more depth on the physical and emotional journeys prompted by his quest for the truth. Anyone interested in the Second World War, emigration, Polish culture, the collapse of communism, family secrets and the emotional impact all these had will love this book, on sale at £8.99.

FACES are fascinating – and you won’t see a better collection than These Faces, a new book of photographs by Timothy Neat, published by Polygon, £20. They’re taken all over Europe, but many of the best show travellers and crofters in the Highlands and Islands. A great gift for the photography fan in your life.

OF THE

THE EDGE

WORLD ON YOUR DOORSTEP

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NEWS

ROAD cycling and mountain biking are pretty well catered for in the Cairngorms – but now BMX enthusiasts have a special place to work on their skills, too. The Carrbridge Bike Park was designed by Kerr McWilliam, 22, with help from his brother Lewis, 15. Kerr drew on his experience of similar parks in New Zealand, where he has worked as an Alpine race coach, and their dad, Ranald, was the driving force beind the project, which received support from the village’s development company, Carrbridge Ahead, and from the Scottish Government’s “Shovel Ready” fund, via the Cairngorms National Park Authority. Kerr said: “The bike park is going down a storm with kids from preschool age to high school and there’s a few adults having a go, too.” The bike park – which is next to the more sedate village bowling green – has a series of jumps and slopes, plus a skills practice area.

PHOTOGRAPH: FIONA QUIRE

Chain gang

Kerr in foreground with Lewis in action

Weather wise

Thrill factor EVERYTHING in Dubai seems to be the biggest, the tallest, the fastest – you get the idea. And the city’s dramatically expanded waterpark at Atlantis, The Palm, is no different. Superlatives abound at Aquaventure: largest-diameter slide, ﬁrst ‘slide within a slide’, longest zip-line, and so on. The names of the rides are suitably alarming: thrill-seekers huddle together in groups of six on

rafts to plummet down Anaconda, race each other on Poseidon’s Revenge, or experience zero gravity on Zoomerango. Along with the all-year warmth, the shopping, the hospitality and the spectacular cityscape, it’s yet another reason to visit Dubai, which is easily and affordably reached from Inverness, via Manchester or Amsterdam. See klm.com

SCOTCH on the rocks is one of life’s luxuries – unless you’re a “neat or nothing” connoisseur. But ice cubes can be ﬁddly and tend to stick to each other. Instead try these actual rocks to be kept in the freezer and used indeﬁnitely. £19.95 for a pack of six from prezzybox.com

• AUTUMN 2013

MUNRO baggers usually want to know the weather forecast before setting out for their chosen hill – and now it’s easier than ever to ﬁnd that information. A website called myweather2.com allows you to click on your proposed peak and see detailed information on the likely rainfall, wind speed, cloud cover and so on. Of course, there’s no guarantee it’ll be accurate, but at least it’s speciﬁc and saves you working out which region your hill is classed under. See bit.ly/1aTAiWc

WALKING holidays in Orkney are hard to beat, with the islands’ phenomenal combination of wildlife and archaeology – and the options just got even better. About Argyll Walking Holidays has added two Orkney tours to its July 2014 programme, each featuring shortish strolls and longer walks of up to 16 miles. See aboutargyll.co.uk

Green triumph NEVER again will log cabins be associated with roughing it. Eagle Brae, a development of seven selfcatering cabins on a hillside in the Highlands, is the height of luxury – and has already won a gold award for sustainability in the Green Tourism Business Scheme. The Canadian-style cedar cabins, pictured below, on the Struy Estate between Glen Affric and Glen Strathfarrar half an hour’s drive from Inverness, are powered entirely by renewable energy. Each cabin has a wild ﬂower roof, a wood-burning stove and wooden engravings carved in the Himalayas. The development is powered by a micro-hydro scheme, and biomass boilers

INTEREST in the night sky is growing – and if you’re new to the hobby, The Stargazer’s Notebook is the ideal way to record your progress. With helpful information from TV astronomer Paul Abel, it has pages for notes and diagrams on the stars and planets you see. Frances Lincoln, £10.99.

provide hot water. It has its own natural underground water source. Guests can choose from activities including ﬁshing, shooting, archery, sled-dog rides, hillwalking and camera safaris. Mike and Pawana Spencer-Nairn spent nearly a decade developing Eagle Brae. Mike, whose family has owned the estate since the 1930s, said: “We recognised there was a shortage of environmentally sustainable accommodation in the region, despite massive growth in the eco-tourism industry, and we have worked hard to ﬁnd innovative ways to meet the needs of this market as well as our own green ambitions.” See eaglebrae.co.uk

Latecomers warned GETTING to Heathrow from other airports in the London area is much easier than many people think – all it takes is a little patience. And now there’s even more reason to allow yourself ample time as the airport has introduced a system of automated gates designed to avoid ﬂight delays caused by passengers arriving late at check-in. Boarding passes will now be scanned automatically rather than by airport staff. Passengers cutting it ﬁne will see a message telling them to hurry to their departure gate, but those arriving after a cutoff time that depends on distance to the gate will be denied entry. A message then goes to the airline so that the latecomer’s baggage can be unloaded from the aircraft. It sounds stressful – but so are delays to departures. The answer is to think in advance about how you will reach Heathrow. See our regular guide on page 49.

CAPERCAILLIE are under pressure – but they have successfully bred in the Anagach woods at Grantown-on-Spey for the ﬁrst time in years. Tim Poole, of the RSPB, called the news a chink of light, and said it showed people were heeding advice to keep their dogs on leads during the breeding season.

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

THE BIG PICTURE

INVERNESS, KNOWN AS THE CAPITAL OF THE HIGHLANDS, HAS SHOPS ON A FITTING SCALE. EMMA ROBERTSON GOES IN SEARCH OF SOME RETAIL THERAPY KINTYRE HAS AN EXCELLENT LONGDISTANCE WALK – AND SO MUCH MORE BESIDES, AS DON CURRIE DISCOVERS

LET’S HEAD FOR THE THRILLS

WAYto GO

OMPEII COMITER SENESCERET SABURRE, quam chirographi vocificat pretosius oratori, quod pessimus parsimonia concubine adquireret lascivius suis, utcunque umbraculi suffragarit quadrupei, ut fragilis agricolae aegre celeriter agnascor gulosus saburre. Apparatus bellis neglegenter conubium santet incredibiliter adfabilis concubine, quod chirographi corrumperet quinquennalis ossifragi. Utilitas fiducias praemuniet verecundus concubine, quamquam ossifragi agnascor saburre, etiam oratori libere insectat optimus utilitas matrimonii. Apparatus bellis amputat concubine, ut perspicax apparatus bellis senesceret saetosus rures. Concubine imputat matrimonii. Ossifragi adquireret quinquennalis agricolae. Parsimonia saburre lucide imputat rures, quamquam syrtes senesceret Octavius. Rures insectat syrtes. Perspicax rures comiter vocificat adfabilis agricolae. Saburre amputat incredibiliter verecundus cathedras, quod optimus lascivius fiducias praemuniet plane pretosius rures. Quadrupei divinus miscere saetosus zothecas. Pretosius saburre circumgrediet rures. Medusa conubium santet bellus matrimonii, ut syrtes iocari chirographi. Zothecas deciperet syrtes. Fragilis ossifragi circumgrediet apparatus bellis, utcunque adlaudabilis suis amputat Caesar. Utilitas matrimonii senesceret saetosus fiducias. Saburre incredibiliter libere insectat cathedras, etiam chirographi fermentet utilitas concubine, quamquam umbraculi lucide corrumperet adfabilis suis, quod tremulus matrimonii iocari aegre adlaudabilis oratori, quamquam rures suffragarit chirographi.

• AUTUMN 2013

HIGH DRAMA ST ABB’S HEAD, in Berwickshire, photographed here by microlight user Michael Gill, is a dramatic place. With its deeply indented volcanic cliffs, jagged rocks and white-painted 19th century lighthouse, it’s seen to great effect from this angle. The area is managed by the National Trust for Scotland as the country’s only voluntary marine reserve, and is home to countless crustaceans, marine plants and seabirds, such as kittiwakes and razorbills. It’s popular with divers, birdwatchers and walkers, many of whom head to the village of St Abb’s, seen in the top left of the picture, for some refreshment after a day of fresh air. When not soaring above Scotland, Michael is a designer – see michaelgill.eu

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

VIEWPOINT

Seeing stars MOST OF US KNOW LESS ABOUT THE NIGHT SKY THAN OUR ANCESTORS DID – AND IT’S HIGH TIME THAT WE REDISCOVERED ITS MAGIC, ARGUES DAN HILLIER

E SEEM to be on a rising wave of interest in the night sky at the moment, although it depends on your baseline. Thousands of years ago everybody would have been familiar with the night sky, and we’ve lost that knowledge as a result of living in towns and cities. Light pollution reduces the number of stars you can see, and sightlines become more restricted so that you don’t get to see a big sky in the same way. Nevertheless there’s growing interest, partly on the back of television programmes featuring people like Brian Cox. And in Scotland we are well placed to enjoy the night sky. If you look at satellite images showing light pollution you see that we have some of the biggest areas of dark sky in Europe. Many people come to Scotland to experience its wildness, and dark skies are now recognised as part of that picture. People enjoy looking at the night sky in different ways. With no expertise at all, you can appreciate the immensity of the sky and the sheer scale of the universe. It’s a surprise to some people that with the naked eye they may be able to see the bigger planets – Jupiter and Saturn – as well as satellites going past and shooting stars or meteor showers. Using binoculars makes a huge difference. One object that tends to be overlooked is the moon, because it is so familiar. But when you see the shadows of the craters, cast by the sunlight, you realise you are looking at a different world. You may be able to see the moons of Jupiter strung out beautifully on either side of the planet, and the rings of Saturn are spectacular. The Dark Sky Discovery initiative offers people a start in all this – a way for people to get their bearings on the sky, and they can then go on and get into it in more detail if they want to. The night sky appeals to people of all backgrounds and ages. Kids tend to love it, but a lot of adults have a

“

• AUTUMN 2013

latent interest, which they have never quite been able to satisfy. We run the Dark Sky Discovery Site scheme. These sites are specific places, 10 metres square, which are the answer to the question “Where is a good place to go and see the stars?” There are three criteria for a Dark Sky Discovery Site. The first is to do with darkness – the darkest category of site is one where you can see the Milky Way with the naked eye, and these are all in the countryside. There are other sites where you can see the main stars in Orion, and these don’t need to be so dark, provided they are away from street lights. The second criterion is sight lines – you need to be able to see a good all-round horizon. Thirdly, all sites need to be accessible – you need to be able to go there without permission, and you need to be able to use them with a wheelchair or pushchair. There are now 20 sites identified in Scotland. Once you’re familiar with the night sky, you will recognise parts of it all the time. But when you are new to it, you need to see the whole sky really well, and at a Dark Sky Discovery Site you have a good chance of doing that. If you want to take your interest further, it’s a good idea to join a local astronomy society. You learn quickly by being with someone who knows the sky a bit better and knows how to use a telescope. Pretty much every culture in history has placed some significance in the night sky. But people vary in how they connect to it. Some find it makes them think about the earth and how we should look after it. Some are drawn to how science and technology has brought us our incredible understanding of the universe. Others find it takes them down a science fiction train of thought. It’s an inspiration in lots of ways. 

”

darkskydiscovery.org.uk

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

EVENTS!

MAKE A DATE LET THERE BE LIGHT – AND MUSIC, BOOKS, THRILLS AND SKILLS. THERE’LL BE NO SHORTAGE OF EXCITEMENT THIS AUTUMN

FOREST HANTED THE ENC Pitlochry ood, near Faskally W ber 4-27 Octo rest.org.uk fo d te n a ench

h trees are t, in whic en ev e u as iq This un of colours zling array az d a in er lit up growing ev the air, is sales up music ﬁlls early ticket ular, with p o p s show, r’ re o ea y m year. This st la n o by four-fold n created rb’ has bee d an ey n called ‘abso n o ner Kate B ig es d ha g n w lighti onnell, it mo RJ McC re by p ce su ie d p n sou rchestral e mposed o th co y n ll ee ia b e ec sp French hav e h T s. , le ades John Bea ière for dec son et lum ccess su g masters of in w rs of gro ea y 0 1 r te to but af atening ots are thre p up here, the Sc erch. Wra p r off thei em th t. ea ck tr o a n k senses give your warm and

• AUTUMN 2013

TIREE WAVE CLASSIC Isle of Tiree 12-18 October tireewaveclassic.co.uk Some of the world’s best windsurfers descend on Tiree to compete amid some of the best waves in Europe – and to enjoy the sociable and lively atmosphere of an event that attracts the sport’s international elite while also welcoming the mildly curious.

RELENTLESS 24 William Nevis Range, Fort 19 October k nofussevents.co.u

mina can proud of their sta Mountain bikers by t ub do yond all demonstrate it be rough durance event th en is th ing complet d is the an otl Sc o’s ard rn Ba Leanachan Forest. elling gru is partner for th nominated charity e th for ng tracks used 24-hour pedal alo for hips. It’s as much ns pio world cham riders e th for as pporters spectators and su themselves.

PHOTOGRAPHS: OTTO KOOTA; GRAHAM SMITH; LANDEL JOHNSTON

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

EVENTS!

AMBER PERTHSHIRE Various venues November 25 October – 3 r.com perthshireambe created this Dougie MacLean th his wife great festival wi bill features e Jennifer, but th r acoustic he ot of all manner rsatile guitar talents. Ultra-ve ey; singermaestro Tim Ed y songwriter Budd Cape m Macdonald, fro percaillie Ca ; da na Breton, Ca cKerron; ﬁddler Charlie M rist Calum promising guita list supreme Buchanan; voca – all line up on Karen Mathes rse as Blair ve di in venues as ert Hall nc Co rth Castle, Pe g on Loch and the Cranno ren Tay. Pictured: Ka ie MacLean Matheson; Doug Academy e an lb and Breada ey Ed m Ti students;

PHOTOG

RAPH: RO

B MCDO

UGALL

FACLAN An Lanntair, Stornoway 30 October – 2 November faclan.org This year’s line-up for the Hebridean Book Festiva l looks like the strongest so far, with a wealth of brilliant guests, each with much to talk about. Jonathan Meades, whose aggressive, verbose style makes him one of the most idiosyncratic television broadcasters, and who has turned his attention to Lewis and Harris with a ﬁlm call ed The Land of Rust. Jon Ronson, best known for The Men Who Stare At Goats, discusses his latest book, a study of madne ss called The Psychopath Test. Former Home Secreta Johnson – everybody’s ‘de ry Alan cent politician’ – talks abo ut his acclaimed autobiogr Peter May, best known for aphy. his superb trilogy of Lew is-set crime novels, disc collaboration with photog usses his rapher David Wilson. Tw o giant names in childre ﬁction, Julia ‘Gruffalo’ Do n’s naldson and Mairi ‘Katie Morag’ Hedderwick, star festival’s schools progra in the mme. Pictured: Mairi Hed derwick, above, and Ala n Johnson • SUMMER 2013

Need to get to the airport?

Visit our website for more info on the JET services in Inverness or Orkney.

CAIRNGORMS

BIGGEST

best

• AUTUMN 2013

NOW CELEBRATING ITS TENTH ANNIVERSARY, THE CAIRNGORMS NATIONAL PARK CONTINUES TO EVOLVE AS A PLACE IN WHICH TO LIVE, WORK AND PLAY, WRITES RICHARD ROWE

T’S OFTEN SAID that the best way to appreciate the grandeur of the Cairngorms is to stand on one of the high tops. Seen from afar, the mountains appear rolling, gentle even, but, on a clear day, anyone gazing from one of these mighty summits will be in no doubt that this is a serious mountain range – an expanse of remote back country on a scale usually found only in other countries. With more than 55 peaks over 900 metres, including four of Scotland’s five highest mountains, the Cairngorms offer a lifetime of walking, climbing and ski touring. But it’s perhaps not the summits that

A family cycling at Gulabin, Glenshee

inform the character of this remarkable upland landscape so much as the vast plateaus that link them; together, they form the largest expanse of ground above 800m in the UK – an arctic-alpine environment that provides precious habitat for mountain hare, ptarmigan, dotterel and a host of specialist plants. Throw in the deep mountain passes that have long connected communities at lower levels, some of Scotland’s most celebrated rivers, vast swathes of ancient Caledonian pinewood – home to many of Britain’s most endangered species – and it is a landscape to quicken the pulse of anyone with a love of wild places. In September 2003, this central mountain area became the wild heart of the Cairngorms National Park – one of 15 in the UK, and Scotland’s second

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

CAIRNGORMS

PHOTOGRAPHS: CNPA/ANGUS FINDLAY; CNPA/WEE EPICS; MARK HAMBLIN/SOSOVISION

From left: the National Park offers endless cycling routes; youngsters on an outdoor learning trip; ﬁtting a transmitter to a hen harrier chick at Glen Tanar; path repair work in progress

after Loch Lomond & the Trossachs. It’s fair to say, however, that the national park was not met with universal cheer when first unveiled. Some of the doubters were concerned about additional layers of bureaucracy, while others were dismayed by the areas not included within the park’s original boundaries – with protests by politicians and conservationists at what they considered the folly of excluding parts of Highland Perthshire. Their voices were heard and, in 2010, the Scottish Government confirmed an extension of the park’s boundary to include Blair Atholl, Killiecrankie and Glenshee to the south – increasing the overall size of the park by a fifth. Now covering an area of more than 4,500sq km, it is twice the size of the Lake District, the UK’s second largest national park.

Partnerships The park is administered by the Cairngorms National Park Authority, a public body with a remit that could not be any broader – or more challenging. In addition to conserving and enhancing the area’s outstanding natural and cultural heritage, the authority is also charged with promoting sustainable economic and social development of local communities. The latter recognises that the Cairngorms are not just a hub for outdoor recreation, but also a place in which around • AUTUMN 2013

17,000 people live and work. “The concept of what people see as a national park is different around the world, with nature conservation [rather than people] often the overriding priority,” notes Duncan Bryden, convenor of the Park Authority Board. “But with so many people living within the park, we have a very different set-up.” Some communities are in better shape than others, with problems common to many rural areas such as lack of adequate public transport, an ageing population and shortage of labour skills playing their part. All are issues that the authority is keen to address. It has done so through close co-operation with communities, businesses and public sector partners – a collective approach made even more necessary by the structure of the park authority itself. Unlike other national parks in the UK, it does not actually own land, directly employ rangers or run its own visitor centres; instead much of that work is undertaken by other land managers and private businesses. As such, the park authority has until now operated as more of a facilitator, with a focus on encouraging others within the park to recognise and value its special qualities. “We have spent a decade building partnerships, which has helped emphasise the point that we are not just some heavy-handed regulator,” Bryden explains.

Wildlife In terms of the lifespan of a landscape, its wildlife and people, a decade is no time at all, but national park status has already made a significant impact. Bryden, who has been involved in the park’s planning since the very beginning, is proud of what has been achieved. He points to the millions of pounds invested in improvements to the core path network (undertaken by environmental charity, the Cairngorms Outdoor Access Trust); high-profile conservation initiatives that have benefited species such as Scottish wildcat and capercaillie; and a long partnership with the John Muir Award, a well-respected environmental education initiative, that has seen more than 10,000 awards achieved in the park. Most recently, it launched Cairngorms Nature, a new initiative designed to encourage local people and visitors alike to help safeguard and enhance the park’s many natural riches. But it’s perhaps the park’s name and branding that has made the greatest impact to date. It’s one of the first areas in Scotland to harness the power of a destination, and a variety of local businesses now work together under the auspices of the Cairngorms Business Partnership to ensure a high-quality visitor experience

throughout the park. Central to that has been use of the park’s brand – complete with its logo of an osprey clutching a fish – with the park positioning itself from the off as a leading ‘green’ destination. The area now sees upwards of 1.5 million visitors a year, with many drawn by its national park status. It’s a big plus, believes Keith Ballam who, five years ago, took over the running of Craggan Outdoors, an activity company based near Grantown-on-Spey. “The identity of the area strengthens the call for people to come, while there is also a certain feel-good factor about spending time in a national park,” he comments. But from Bryden’s perspective, it’s not just about people coming and spending money. “We also want them to learn about why the park is so special,” he says. “A national park is just that – something for all the people of Scotland to enjoy.” Crucially, people are not just visiting but staying, too, with the area now a magnet for those looking to work in the outdoors or simply enjoy a more outdoor lifestyle – including a particularly welcome influx of young people. The resort town of Aviemore has seen the arrival of several new outdoor businesses, while leading adventure travel operator Wilderness Scotland AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

FACLAN 2013

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CAIRNGORMS

Walkers at Soldier’s Leap, Killiecrankie, (top) and a path maintenance team at work

PHOTOGRAPHS: CNPA/ANGUS FINDLAY; ELEANOR MACKINTOSH

recently upped sticks and relocated from Edinburgh. Meanwhile, Aviemore’s successful bid to host the prestigious Adventure Travel World Summit in 2010 spoke volumes about the area’s desire to be a player on the world stage. It’s the sort of international attention that has since seen National Geographic Traveller magazine list the park as one of the world’s top 20 destinations, while last year National Geographic listed the park in the world’s 50 Last Great Places, describing it as “the destination of a lifetime”.

community (An Camas Mòr) within Rothiemurchus Estate near Aviemore. Such is the demand for housing that the park authority planning committee has For more on the Beneﬁts given the green light for the building of work of the Given Aviemore’s position as the premier up to 1,500 houses over a 30-year period. Cairngorms National tourism and business hub, the trick now is Campaigners against the plans cannot Park Authority, visit to ensure that social and economic benefits understand why this is being proposed in cairngorms.co.uk, or to ﬁnd out how are felt throughout the park. The signs are such an ecologically rich area, while the best to explore promising. The boundary changes have park authority is adamant that the for yourself, see brought developments around Blair Atholl, development will not only be in keeping visitcairngorms.com including a new visitor centre, while to the with its surroundings, but also be exactly north the recently formed Tomintoul and what is needed in terms of providing Glenlivet Development Trust is working on housing and employment opportunities a range of community-led plans to help regenerate the for future generations. local area. Mountain bikers will be particularly keen to It’s just one of many difficult decisions the park sample the new, purpose-built trails scheduled to open authority will likely need to make as it continues to at Glenlivet Estate in the autumn. balance the different sides of its remit. As Bryden Of course, many challenges lie ahead, not least in emphasises: “While we want to build sustainable continuing to marry what appear to be the conflicting communities and help businesses thrive, nature aims of pursuing community and economic conservation will remain a central plank of what development while also safeguarding the park’s natural we do.” environment. It’s a tricky balancing act, one perhaps Get that balance right and the national park will best highlighted by the divided opinion surrounding be a true standard bearer – one that the whole of proposals to build what will effectively be a new Scotland can be proud of. 

More info

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

SKIING

DIRECT FLIGHTS AND UNBEATABLE DEALS MEAN IT’S EASIER AND QUICKER THAN EVER TO REACH EUROPE’S TOP SKI RESORTS

Alpine

ACTION

KI RESORTS are now to be found in mountain ranges all over the world – but for many enthusiasts, the Alps will never be bettered. And no matter how much you enjoy skiing in Scotland, at times the thought of sun on your back, mountain-top restaurants and après-ski aplenty is irresistible. This winter, travel agent Inghams has teamed up with Flybe to make ski holidays in these magnificent mountains accessible for all, with direct flights between Inverness and Geneva, transfers to a wide choice of Swiss and French resorts, and catered accommodation. Flights will run every Saturday from 21 December until 1 March 2014. The flight will serve the French resorts of Avoriaz, Chamonix, Courchevel, Flaine, La Plagne, Les Arcs, Megève, Méribel, Morzine, Tignes, Val d’Isère and Val Thorens as well as the Swiss resorts of Grindelwald, Mürren, Saas Fee, Verbier, Wengen and Zermatt.

Alive It’s an unbeatable choice, and the right resort for you will depend on your skiing ability and what you like to do once you’re back down from the slopes at the end of each day. Val d’Isère is an ideal choice for adventurous skiers and snowboarders, with its abundance of steep runs and endless off-piste expanses. After dark the resort comes alive with classy bars, clubs and restaurants frequented by the stars but warmly welcoming the rest of us as well. There are modern buildings throughout this popular resort, but there’s history, too. The parish • AUTUMN 2013

church, built in the 17th century, is an attractive sight, as are the numerous chalets. The town built its first ski lift in the 1930s, putting it in the vanguard of the sport loved by millions today. It is home to French skiing hero Jean-Claude Killy, who was born in Paris but brought to Val d’Isère as a toddler at the end of the Second World War. He grew up in the town and went on to win three Olympic gold medals. The slopes of Val d’Isère and neighbouring Tignes are collectively known as the Espace Killy, in his honour. Méribel is a great option for families, with a short transfer time from Geneva, excellent children’s ski kindergarten and plenty of activities including gokarting, bowling, ice skating and dog sledding. The sports centre, which hosted Olympic events in 1992, has far more than the expected ice rink – it also boasts a climbing wall, gym, swimming pool and spa.

Even the most popular resorts are big enough to ﬁnd your own space

Historic

The historic Mont Blanc tramway is one For nightlife, there are plenty of the most spectacular train journeys of lively bars, many of them anywhere, and there are areas for children’s British-run. Jack’s features standsledging. At night, as well as restaurants of Après-ski at Val d’Isère up comics and bands, and Dick’s every description, bars such as Amnesia have Tea Bar, which serves plenty of DJs to coax yet more movement out of those tired refreshments stronger than tea, stays open muscles, and the town even has its own microbrewery. until daybreak. At the Rond-Point, toffee vodka and Zermatt, whose name means “in the meadow”, is crowd-surfing are among the attractions. surrounded by dramatic peaks, including the Chamonix has established itself as an all-year venue Matterhorn. This German-speaking village became for adventurous sports such as mountain biking, widely known in the 19th century as a haunt of whitewater rafting and paragliding. But skiing will mountaineers, many of them British, and a small probably remain its staple fare, with every variety of the museum records such tales as that of Edward Whymper, sport well catered for. The Vallée Blanche, a run of who led the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865 20km among towering peaks, is one of the classic before triumph turned to tragedy with the deaths of winter sports experiences, but there are plenty of less four climbers from the seven-strong party on the ambitious options, too. way back down. AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

SKIING

PHOTOGRAPH:

MONICA DALM

ASSO

PHOTOGRAPH: PATRICE LABARBE

From top: deep snow covers the chalets at Chamonix; a tempting window display at the resort; snowshoes – an alternative to skis at Val d’Isère

Romantic For skiers. there’s a wide choice of runs and very reliable snow cover, with one of the longest seasons in the Alps. It’s a peaceful place, largely car-free, with the few vehicles you do see running on battery power to avoid air pollution. Wooden barns flank the cobbled streets and there’s a romantic atmosphere. There are countless chairlifts, one of which has the rare distinction of crossing an international border – its top is in Italy. Simple, traditional fare is served at mountain huts high on the slopes.

Avoriaz is a modern resort, and one that is the result of careful planning. Its hotels are designed to blend in with the surrounding mountains, and horse-drawn sleighs provide transport around the resort. A new development, the Aquariaz, is an indoor aquapark with hundreds of tropical plants and trees – ideal for any youngsters who feel like a change from snowsports. Prices and facilities vary between resorts, but here are some illustrations to give you an idea. At Val d’Isère, from £693 per person, Inghams is offering seven nights catered accommodation at the 3.5-star Chalet Les Barmettes. At Méribel, from £693 per person, Inghams is offering free lift passes for children aged up to five, and seven nights catered accommodation at the 4-star Chalet Côte d’Arlin. At Zermatt, from £594 per person, Inghams is offering seven nights catered accommodation at the 3-star Chalet Hotel Atlanta. Prices quoted represent a saving of £25 per person and are subject to availability. They include return flights from Inverness to Geneva and resort transfers. Catered accommodation includes breakfast, afternoon tea or coffee and cakes and a four-course evening meal with unlimited wine. Guests can pre-book ski lessons or book on arrival through the Inghams representative in the resort.  For more information, or to book, visit www.inghams.co.uk or call 01483 791114.

PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIPPE ROYER

• AUTUMN 2013

CRAFT BEER

MINE’S A MICRO SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL AS FAR AS TODAY’S BEER DRINKERS ARE CONCERNED. ANDREW ROSS RAISES A GLASS TO SCOTLAND’S INDEPENDENT BREWERIES

BrewDog founders Martin Dickie and James Watt

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

CRAFT BEER

Williams Bros’ Alloa brewery

Beer on the board at the Sutor Creek Cafe, Cromarty, near the Black Isle Brewery

S FAR AS DRINK goes, whisky is Scotland’s standout product and premier export. But with the number of independent craft breweries soon set to rival the number of active distilleries in the country and, with beers from independent breweries gaining global recognition and winning awards, could real ale be Scotland’s next big success story? With a UK real ale industry worth £1.5bn per year and growing, independent breweries are becoming big business. As recently as the late 1990s real ale was perceived to be the preserve of bearded men getting on in years who met in gloomy pubs to discuss the merits of Fursty Ferret and Hop Back Summer Lightning. But tastes change – it is à la mode for young men to sport beards these days – and real ale pumps are replacing taps pouring massproduced beer in pubs across the country. “Since the early 2000s the craft beer market in Scotland has seen significant growth,” says Sam Faircliff, managing director of Cairngorm Brewery, founded in Aviemore in 2001. “Consumers recognise and appreciate the difference between craft beer and massproduced beer and we are noticing it is not just men who enjoy our products. There is growing interest and appreciation of craft beers by younger consumers, too, and demand for our products is resulting in increased sales year on year.”

Shift Cairngorm Brewery’s story could be echoed by many of the 60 or so independent or ‘micro’ breweries across the country from Aberdeen to Dumfries, Orkney to Colonsay. They form part of over 1,100 independent breweries within the UK – which is a 70• AUTUMN 2013

year high, according to the Campaign for Real Ale. Bruce Williams, founder of Williams Bros Brewing Company, says: “We started brewing in a five-barrel brewery in Argyll once or twice a week, moving up to five times a week in a 10-barrel brewery in Strathaven. We then took over the 40-barrel Forth Brewery in Alloa, brewing eight times a week with plans to increase this because of ever-growing demand. We are now exporting to over 20 different countries. “People are much more interested in drinking good quality smaller batch beers and there also appears to have been a shift towards beers brewed with New World hops. The hop farmers are constantly breeding new strains of hops and this is creating some really exciting flavours in beers which are proving extremely popular.” The number of independent breweries in Scotland has grown steadily since 2002, when the then Chancellor of the Exchequer, Gordon Brown, announced a sliding scale of tax relief for small breweries. Originally, relief on duty was offered to brewers producing up to 30,000 hectolitres (HL) but was extended in 2004 to an upper limit of 60,000 HL. “The introduction of Small Breweries’ Relief was a defining moment for the Scottish craft beer industry,” says Sam Faircliff. “Cairngorm Brewery have used this relief 100 per cent for capital investment and without it we might not actually still be here.” That tax relief, combined with a food and drink revolution sweeping the UK driven by TV chefs such as Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, as well as the growth of farmers’ markets and the emergence of the concept of “food miles”, encouraging consumers to support local producers in preference to global conglomerates, was a

PHOTOGRAPH: PAULTOMKINS, VISITSCOTLAND, SCOTTISH VIEWPOINT

PHOTOGRAPH: PAUL TOMKINS, VISITSCOTLAND, SCOTTISH VIEWPOINT

Brewdog’s IPA on the bottling line

Beer on board

kick-start for the real ale revolution. It saw the number of independent breweries in Scotland balloon as the new wave of brewers targeted free-houses and then brewery-owned chains of pubs across Scotland to try to gain a foothold in a market saturated with massproduced lagers and ciders.

Incredible With these batch-brewed beers proving popular, soon they were a regular sight on the shelves of our supermarkets, too. Yet industry insiders believe the market is still in its infancy. “There has been a noticeable shift towards craft beer and away from boring, insipid fizzy lagers that dominated the UK beer scene,” says James Watt, cofounder of Aberdeenshire brewery BrewDog, which sells beer in 32 countries and is on track to turn over £20 million this year. “We started in 2007 brewing beers in our garage in tiny batches, filled bottles by hand and sold our beers at local markets, and it grew from there. We are confident that this will continue as a trend as more consumers get savvy to the exciting world of craft beer. In terms of the market, we believe it is only just getting started.” Watt’s optimism is shared by Lewis Hill, who runs Orkney’s Highland Brewing Company with his father, Rob: “My dad founded the brewery in 2004 and in the years to 2010 it was just him brewing, delivering, invoicing and not sleeping. I started working with him full-time in 2011 and growth has been a steady 30 per cent since. In the first three months of the financial year sales were up 40 per cent on that period last year. “The growth is incredible – most breweries cannot make enough beer, us included,” adds Hill. “Generally beer sales are declining but the artisan ‘craft’ market is growing exponentially. “It is generally agreed that the growth will not be

stopping soon. Indeed, we are planning our biggest expansion yet.” Recently demand for real ales has continued to grow – to put that growth in context, BrewDog has been named by the Sunday Times as the fastest growing food and drinks company in the UK for the last three years. Cairngorm Brewery has also experienced staggering growth since starting brewing in 2001 when annual turnover was £290,000. In 2013 its annual turnover is forecast to be close to £2m. Suddenly these so-called micro breweries aren’t so micro any more. Yet these businesses retain a friendly face, which, alongside producing more-ish ales, has been key to their success. At a time when provenance is everything, the new generation of brewers perfectly fits the profile that consumers demand of their producers. Far from being faceless multinational food groups (which might have one arm producing dog food and another continental lager – ‘brewed under licence in the UK’ of course), the Scottish independent brewing scene is awash with big personalities, many with strong ethical and eco-friendly business principles.

Variety “One of the areas that we are most committed to, second only to producing quality beers, is sustainability and minimising our impact on the environment,” says Sam Faircliff. “When our founder sold his previous business he decided that he wanted to invest in a sustainable business in the Highlands which was capable of creating a number of permanent jobs.” The Black Isle Brewing Company, which proclaims its setting in rural Easter Ross is “a true beervana”, sets out its eco-credentials: “We are not looking to change the world but we do want to make it a better place – our mantra is evolution not revolution – Save the Planet Drink Organic.” AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

Crearhowe â&#x20AC;Śa very special place

HETHER you are visiting Orkney for the history, wildlife or just in search of peace and tranquility â&#x20AC;&#x201C; then Crearhowe is the perfect base for your Orcadian holiday. Tastefully refurbished to reflect not only the natural beauty of its stunning surroundings but also to

take into account green issues, Crearhowe, sleeping up to six people, offers comfortable, high quality self catered accommodation. Overlooking Scapa Flow, the Churchill barriers and the beautiful Italian Chapel, the property enjoys panoramic views and is only seven miles from Kirkwall.

Contact Mrs Karen Withams 01334 850310 enquiries@crearhowe.co.uk www.crearhowe.co.uk

CRAFT BEER

Williams Bros beers

Bruce and Scott Williams, founders of Williams Bros

And lest we forget: not only do Scottish real ales sell well at home and overseas (Innis & Gunn in Edinburgh produces Canada’s biggest selling British bottled beer with 2013 sales projected to be 500,000 cases, a staggering 40 per cent of all its sales; while the Cairngorm Brewery says 5 per cent of its turnover is from export, up from almost zero a year ago, and projected to rise to at least 25 per cent over the next five years) but their beers are fantastic. Such is the variety – from modern, hoppy, zesty summer ales to rich, dark stouts – that some bars and restaurants are even matching real ales with food. At the 2012 CAMRA Champion Beer of Britain awards – the real ale Oscars – held annually at the Great British Beer Festival, Stewart Brewing’s Embra from Midlothian was voted Champion Bottled Beer of Britain while Cairngorm Brewery’s Black Gold was in the top three in the Champion Winter Beer of Britain category. In 2011 Houston Brewing Company’s Peter’s Well was voted Best Bitter and Atlas Brewery’s Wayfarer was awarded a bronze medal in the Speciality Beer Class. Since 2002 Scottish ales have twice been awarded CAMRA’s highest accolade – the Champion Beer of Britain Supreme Champion, with Harviestoun’s Bitter & Twisted (2003) and Deuchars IPA (2002) clinching the top award. Independent brewers are even starting to target the mainstream lager market: “Our main area of

Brewery tours SEE HOW IT’S DONE BLACK ISLE BREWING CO, MUNLOCHY Free tours are held seven days a week for much of the year and culminate with a tasting. A great shop stocks the brewery’s full range of beers, seasonal specials, local produce and brewery merchandise. blackislebrewery.com CAIRNGORM BREWERY, AVIEMORE Brewery tours are held ﬁve days a week, with weekend tours by prior arrangement, for much of the year. Tours last for one hour and cost £3. cairngormbrewery.com HOUSTON BREWING COMPANY, RENFREWSHIRE Free tours begin in the brewery’s own pub – where head brewer Carl Wengel meets your group before guiding you round. The tour offers the option of adding on a two or three course lunch for groups of eight or more. houston-brewery.co.uk ORKNEY BREWERY, STROMNESS With a refurbished visitor centre, gift shop and tasting hall, visitors are welcomed for tours of the brewhouse and fermentation room six days a week. A group tour with tasting costs £5 per person.

growth over the last three years has been from the introduction of the Core Craft Keg Range,” says Bruce Williams. “Our Caesar Augustus lager won Gold in the Lager category in the Society Of Independent Brewers’ Craft Beer in Keg competition this year.” The biggest threat to the Scottish real ale industry is the big brand conglomerates that are the antithesis of their microbrewery counterparts. Big business knows a good thing when it sees it (especially skyrocketing sales figures) and just as ethical smoothie maker Innocent was sold out to Coca Cola and Green & Black’s chocolate was sold to Mondelez International (owner of Cadbury, Toblerone and Oreo) the word is that the big brewers are circling the leading independent Scottish brewers, keen to get a piece of the action. Don’t expect any of the swathe of passionate Scottish brewers to sell out just yet, however. BrewDog are fiercely independent and laughed off suggestions they would ever sell out to the corporate culture they so staunchly oppose. “Our mission is the same now as it was six years ago: to make other people as passionate about great craft beer as we are,” says James Watt. Highland Brewing’s Lewis Hill shares Watt’s enthusiasm: “The Scottish brewing world is a very exciting place and there’s never been a more exciting time to be part of it. There is so much to look forward to.”  AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

ROOM REPORT

A BLACK BOX BESIDE THE ROAD OPENS UP ITS CHARMS TO NEIL BRAIDWOOD

AT FIRST SIGHT the Dakota Hotel looks a bit like a factory. It has a monolithic feel – it’s black and shiny with no discernible windows – and seems a bit incongruous, planted in a retail park on the south side of the Forth Road Bridge, near Edinburgh. It’s probably no accident that it looks like this – a Dakota, in case you didn’t know, is a 1940s American aircraft, made from riveted aluminium, and the lobby of the hotel is festooned with amazing black and white photographs of the iconic plane. The lift, too, has a porthole with fluffy white clouds scudding by to make you feel as though you are sky high. So my wife Maureen and I feel like we’re on holiday before we’ve even set foot in our room on the fifth floor.

Tempting Our room is moody, ﬁnished in shades of chocolate brown, with an exposed brick wall at one end, chromium lamps and dark wood furnishings and mirrors. There’s a window, but the view is of the dual carriageway leading to the bridge. I especially love the large chrome ampersand mounted like a statement on the brick wall. It all feels comfortable and luxurious, with lovely added extras such as the towelling dressing gowns and • AUTUMN 2013

tempting toiletries. There’s a huge drench shower, but no bath – so if you prefer a bubble bath, you’re out of luck. None of the rooms have them ﬁtted. We have wiﬁ, the usual tea and coffee facilities and LCD television. After freshening up, we head downstairs for a predinner cocktail at the bar. The brown, muted themes follow through to the public areas, with statement glossy vases punctuating the space. The factory feel is continued as the ceiling has conduits with electric cables snaking around above you and visible air conditioning ducts.

Intimate Feeling like Don Draper in this retro-yet-contemporary setting, I opt for an Old Fashioned, while Maureen puts the waiter on the spot and asks what the ingredients are in their margaritas as they don’t feature on the cocktail menu. There’s a pause, and I think he’ll have to go back to the bar and check, but in fact he rattles off all the components for the drink like a true expert. Moments later, we’re sipping the most delicious alcoholic creations and watching the guests milling around. It’s a Friday night, and I’m not expecting the restaurant to be all that busy. Wrong – our intimate table for two is beside the entrance, with large parties of diners

With its exposed brick interior walls and shiny black exterior, the Dakota is a striking place

some Durrus, a mild semi-soft cheese from Ireland, all served with quince jelly and some delicious oatcakes. I find you never get enough crackers with a cheese course, but when I request more, it’s no problem. We have coffee through in the reception area, lounging on a big squashy sofa to people-watch. Back in our room, the bed is pretty firm, but has a soft mattress topper, which made it feel luxurious and cosy. We sleep well, and aren’t disturbed at all in the night, even though we’re right next to one of the busiest roads in Scotland. The restaurant has a different feel in the morning as Cosy we sit down to breakfast. The wooden venetian blinds, closed the night before, are open now, The main courses arrive – fillet of sea trout for flooding the room with light. We help ourselves to Maureen and slow-cooked oriental-style pork belly for cereals, fruit and yogurts from the central table, then me. My meat is melt-in-the-mouth, though I do have order a full Scottish for Maureen and smoked salmon to negotiate the inevitable fatty strips. Maureen’s fish and scrambled eggs for me. My combo is delicious (I try a piece) and the comes with a caper and tomato relish that vegetables not overdone. tastes quite overpowering – not really The portions are a good size, but what I expect at breakfast time, and a bit not so we can’t eat any more – bring unnecessary. I make short work of the fish on the desserts! Neither of us are Dakota Hotel Edinburgh and eggs, though. convinced by the choice on offer, so Queensferry Our time at the Dakota is almost over. It Maureen plays safe with a trio of Edinburgh hasn’t felt like we’re sharing a car park homemade ice cream, and I decide EH30 9QZ with Tesco just off the A90, but then on cheese. This consists of Old 0131 319 3960 sometimes you find the most amazing Lochnagar cheddar, a wedge of dakotahotels.co.uk things in the most unlikely of places.  Stilton, a slice of goats’ cheese and trooping past. Most appear to be local, and know the staff, which is a good sign – this restaurant clearly has a good reputation. Maureen opts for dressed Eyemouth crab to start, while I choose salted chilli squid. The service is prompt, and the atmosphere in the restaurant lively. Our starters are delicious, mine cooked to order, fried in a delicate batter with just the right hint of sea salt. Maureen detects celeriac mixed in with the crab meat, and declares it a great combination. We don’t think we can manage a bottle of wine after our cocktails, so order a half carafe of house rose.

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DRINK

STILL GAME MICRO-DISTILLERIES SOUND LIKE FUN – BUT THEY COULD HAVE A SERIOUS FUTURE

LIKE LITTLE BOYS in a chocolate factory – that’s how Tony Reeman-Clark described he and his colleagues’ excitement at the prospect of opening the Strathearn distillery – the newest and smallest in Scotland. It is housed in a renovated steading near the Perthshire village of Methven, though to describe it as small is misleading. With its tiny pair of hand-made copper stills which you can almost wrap your arms around, Strathearn is positively pocket-sized. At the time of writing all that awaits is one final rubber stamp from HM Revenue & Customs before the distillery can be fired into life. For Reeman-Clark and his partners – David Lang and David Wight, it will be the culmination of four years’ graft since they conceived the idea. Friendly The struggle is testament to how pioneering Strathearn is as Scotland’s first micro-distillery. Apart from raising nearly all the funds themselves, the threesome had to jump through countless hoops to persuade the authorities to grant them a licence. “But some of the more enlightened members of HMRC are starting to realise there’s going to be a revolution and there will be many more micro-distillers,” says Reeman-Clark. He admits there were moments when they almost gave up. “People used to say to us ‘is this your mid-life crisis?’ and I’d tell • AUTUMN 2013

them that two of us already had motorbikes, so we’ve been there. No, this is a serious business, and it’s serious for Scotland because we’re putting that friendly, romantic veneer back on to the whisky business.” The distillery plans to produce 20,000 litres of alcohol a year, some of it white spirits, such as gin, some aged in wood for three to six months as ‘uisge beatha’ or ‘uiskie’, and the rest aged for at least three years as Scotch whisky. Battle All the casks used will be the traditional 50 litre octaves – a ﬁfth the size of the ex-Bourbon barrels beloved by the industry. Being smaller, the ratio of wood to spirit is much higher and helps speed up maturation. For £750 the distillery will lay one down for you, and in three years you can come and collect around 95 bottles of totally unique single malt whisky, though you will have to pay for bottling and tax. And it is tax that explains the government’s keen interest in distilling that goes right back to its ﬁrst mention in Scotland in the Exchequer Roll of 1494. The authorities became obsessed with the size and shape of stills and wanted to stamp out anything that could be easily transported or concealed. At some point in the 19th century the head of excise in Edinburgh, who was a part-time distiller on the side, decreed that anything

Tony Reeman-Clark with 50 litre cask

smaller than his own still of 400 gallons was illegal. It was a rule that remained in force until 2008, after an almighty battle by three would-be distillers in London called Sipsmith. Master distiller Jared Brown takes up the story: “There was endless legal work of being told we absolutely couldn’t do it, and the reason given was that a new licence had not been granted in anyone’s lifetime. We pointed out that that wasn’t precedent for us not starting a distillery, and eventually they rang Scotland to ask how to issue a license.” What came in the post was somewhat disappointing, and sure to be corrected when Hollywood retells the story. Instead of a scroll of parchment with a magniﬁcent wax seal – the very least the boys at Sipsmith were expecting, they received a scruffy A4 sheet with the words ‘distillery licence’ scribbled by hand. Boost Still it was victory, and Jared Brown is convinced that microdistilling will do for spirits what craft brewing has done for beer. “In this age of near-complete globalisation, the last luxury is a local product.” It is already happening in America, with over 400 micro-distilleries at the last count, and “now that Sipsmith’s kicked the door open, it’s coming this way, without a doubt.”

Back at Strathearn they can only agree. “This revolution is going to happen right under the noses of the big distillers,” says David Lang. The industry giants are pulling in the opposite direction with massive new distilleries like Roseisle, near Elgin, which produce in a day what Strathearn can only manage in 18 months. While the scale may be awesome there’s not much of that “friendly, romantic veneer”, or indeed many jobs, given how production has become so automated. “If we can make Scotland the home of craft distilling we will have gone full circle to where we were 400 years ago,” says Reeman-Clark. It would certainly boost rural employment, and it wouldn’t cause a whisky loch in the process.  Words: Tom Bruce-Gardyne

Craft race THREE TO TRY SIPSMITH LONDON DRY GIN 70cl Waitrose (Ocado) £23.50 The UK’s pioneering craft gin has a lovely ﬂoral nose and some well-judged botanicals to offset the tart intensity of juniper. COPPER HOUSE GIN 70cl adnams.co.uk £26.99 Adnams, the Suffolk brewer and recent convert to craft distilling, won the 2013 Gin Trophy (IWSC) for this complex, creamytextured gin. STRATHEARN SINGLE MALT WHISKY 50 litre cask strathearndistillery.com £750 (plus tax and bottling) No instant gratiﬁcation, but if you can wait three years you will have about 95 bottles of a truly unique single malt.

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

SPORT

KATHERINE GRAINGER FINALLY GOT HER GOLD – AND SCOTLAND’S OTHER ROWING TALENTS ARE NOW SHOWING THEIR METTLE

Strokes of

BRILLIANCE SO WHAT’S YOUR favourite Olympic memory from London 2012? Sir Chris Hoy winning his record-breaking sixth gold medal? Mo Farah’s victories in the 5,000 and 10,000 metres? Maybe Jessica Ennis-Hill’s heptathlon success? Magnificent though all those were, for me the radiant smile of Katherine Grainger when she finally won gold at the fourth time of asking topped the lot. Picking up silver medals at three successive Olympic Games would have broken many sportswomen, but not Katherine, who never gave up and finally won her elusive gold in the double skulls with Anna Atkins at Eton Dorney in front of 30,000 ecstatic rowing fans.

Surprise As someone who remembers the days when more shopping trolleys than rowing boats were in the canals and waterways of Scotland, • AUTUMN 2013

it’s been a pleasant surprise for me to see the positive effect her success has had here. According to Lee Boucher, high performance director of Scottish Rowing, there are now more people than ever, especially teenagers, signing up to take to the water after being awestruck – or should that be oarstruck – by Katherine’s exploits. “The Katherine Grainger effect cannot be over-estimated,” says Boucher, speaking at the Scottish Rowing Centre at Strathclyde Country Park. “We are seeing more and more people looking to join boat clubs since watching Katherine win her gold medal. “I am involved a lot at university level and in the aftermath of the Olympics we had 500 students from Glasgow University wanting to join their boat club when the new term started, with a similar ﬁgure coming forward at Edinburgh University.

“In Aberdeen there is also huge interest at Robert Gordon University and overall there is clearly a legacy left by Katherine in terms of the number of new people taking up the sport all over Scotland.

Special “The way she performed at the Olympics and has remained in the public eye since then has clearly struck a chord with Scottish people of all ages who want to follow in her footsteps.” Glasgow-born, brought up in Aberdeen and educated in Edinburgh, she has kept up her Scottish links by becoming Honorary President of the Amateur Scottish Rowing Association and an honorary life member of Aberdeen Boat Club. She also retains membership of the St Andrew Boat Club in Edinburgh, based at Meggetland on the Union Canal. There are some very special places

PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES

WIN

Katherine Grainger, left, and Anna Atkins with their gold medals and, opposite, at their moment of triumph

all over Scotland to take to the water and for me the pick of the bunch are in and around Inverness. There the members of Inverness Rowing Club can choose between two stretches of the Caledonian Canal – one of more than 5,000 metres to the west, towards Loch Ness, the other 2,000 metres to the east, towards the Moray Firth. Their members claim they have the best rowing water in Scotland and the fact that the canal is relatively sheltered, with no tide or stream, no sharp bends, and with little trafﬁc makes it hard to argue with them. My time at Aberdeen Boat Club, which is the biggest in the country in terms of membership, also showed me that the north-east rowers are among the most competitive and dedicated in the country. The sport continues to thrive, too, at the aforementioned St Andrew Boat Club, which is the oldest in the country, and at the Glasgow Rowing Club on the Clyde. The big question that remains is: what are the chances of Scotland producing more Olympic Gold medallists in the future? By the look of things, pretty good. There is a growing number of talented rowers out there. Heather Standing, who lives in Lossiemouth, won a gold medal

with Helen Glover in the women’s coxless pairs at the 2012 Olympics and she may have a go at winning another in Rio in 2016.

Shape Paralympic rowing gold medallist David Smith, a former pupil of Kingussie High School, is another who could challenge for a podium place in Brazil. Others to look out for in the future include the likes of Imogen Walsh and Alan Sinclair, of Inverness Rowing Club, Polly Swan and Katherine Douglas, of Edinburgh, Sam Scrimgeour, from Forfar, and Vicky Meyer-Laker, from Premnay, Aberdeenshire, who were all included in the GB rowing team for the World Championships in Chungju, South Korea, in August. We also have Iona Reilly, of Robert Gordon University, who is one of the top rowers at under-23 level, while teenagers Lewis McCue, from Aberdeen, and Calum Michael, of Dumfries, are two talents to watch. All in all, then, Scottish rowing is in good shape in the wake of Katherine Grainger’s gold. Let’s hope that in three years’ time in Rio we’ll be celebrating another Scottish-born rowing gold medallist.  Words: Rob Robertson

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

KATHERINE GRAINGER

The inspirational story of her journey to

Olympic Gold at

LONDON 2012

dreams do come true THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY

I nt ro d u c t i o n by S I R S T E V E R E D G R AV E

Win a signed copy of Katherine Grainger’s superb new book, Dreams Do Come True: The Autobiography. We have ﬁve copies of this beautiful book, each signed by Katherine. The book is published by Andre Deutsch and costs £20. It’s packed with pictures from her dramatic career in which she won silver medals at three Olympic Games before achieving the ultimate prize at London 2012.

Just answer this simple question:

In which city was Katherine Grainger born? Enter online at aurora-mag.com/ competitions PHOTOGRAPHS, BY GETTY, ARE TAKEN FROM DREAMS DO COME TRUE: THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY

MOTORING

QUICK Cut to the

NEVER MIND THE JARGON, THE MAZDA 6 OUTPERFORMS ITS OWN IRKSOME PUBLICITY CLAIMS

THE WORST THING about the latest Mazda 6 will almost certainly be the bit that the marketing gurus like to call “The Purchasing Experience” – AKA having your will to live extracted by a heavily armed salesman. The weaponry, in the case of the Mazda salesman, consists of a long list of acronyms and pompous labels applied, basically, to help convince you that the new model is better in every way than the old. The new, third generation Mazda 6, the potential buyer will be informed, beneﬁts from a SKYACTIV technology suite. This, the company claims, helps the car to set new benchmarks for fuel economy and carbon emissions in the CD segment. In spite of the hype, standstill • AUTUMN 2013

to 60mph under nine seconds, a top speed above 131 and getting on for 70mpg sound good to me. But the model also beneﬁts from other, less clearcut technologies according to Mazda. There is, for instance, the company’s Sustainable Zoom-Zoom driving and electrifying KODO – “Soul of Motion” styling. Eh?

Empire And there’s more, for the new Mazda 6 is the ﬁrst mass-production Mazda to be equipped with i-ELOOP regenerative braking technology which, apparently, compliments the existing i-stop (sic) idle stop system. Confused? Don’t be. The story so far is that Mazda has reﬁned the 2.2 litre diesel engine originally designed for the baby Jaguar when that luxury car maker was, like Mazda, part of the Ford empire. To this they have added the

regenerative and engine stop/start technology pioneered by BMW eight years ago to provide one of the biggest performance boosts since engine management computers of a decade ago. The end result is a perfect example of state-of-the-art family motoring, the equivalent if you like, of the redoubtable Ford Cortina, but for the 21st century. And it is an impressive tour de force which demonstrates how car makers have harnessed technologies to achieve levels of performance and economy that were believed unattainable just a decade ago. Back then 70mpg was only just about managed by tiny, cramped shopping cars whose token luxury was a factory-ﬁtted radio/cassette player.

Luxury The Mazda 6 is a big ﬁve-door ﬁveseater that, even in its most basic

6 of the best MAZDA 6

Engine: 2.2 litre diesel 0-60mph: 8.8 seconds Top speed: 132mph Combined economy: 68mpg Gearbox: Six-speed manual Price as tested: £23,885

form, comes crammed with technology and luxury equipment. I drove the mid-range diesel version priced at just under £24,000 after handing over £660 for the metallic paint job. Though it still has only cloth upholstery it boasts automatic lights and wipers, privacy glass, dual zone climate control and more controversially, a fully integrated large-screen TomTom navigation system.

Gimmicks This looks good and it worked perfectly in the test car but I have to question its inclusion (at some significant cost) when most mobile phones come with a perfectly good satnav system as standard. The one on my iphone for example, not only serves abroad in our motorhome but, when shoved into my crash helmet, directs me round Scottish back roads on my motorbike. I have been carping at small details, I admit, but the built-in satnav is yet another example of the window dressing disguising a perfectly good motor car that shouldn’t need gimmicks to sell it, even in a crowded and competitive market.

ST UCK

Nowhere in the hyperbole, for instance, is there any mention of just what a lovely drive this car offers – a quality that I suspect is strongly linked to the genes it shares with Jaguar. For it was a Jag that ﬁrst came to mind as I gave the test car a workout over some quiet roads in the hills overlooking the River Clyde. It’s quick, it’s quiet, it’s extremely comfortable and there’s enough feedback through the controls to let you know that you are controlling the car and not the other way round. When you become aware of that you are tempted to push on a bit and the car allows this, with bags of grip but a suspension system sophisticated enough to maximise grip while giving a wonderfully smooth ride. Yet more Jaguar genes, I suspect. Of course, no car company likes to admit to “borrowing” technology from other car makers, even if they are the standard-setting luxury marques, so maybe one way round this is to mask it with gobbledegook. If you can survive that part of the purchasing experience, and negotiate a discount appropriate to today’s economic situation, you’ll ﬁnd the latest Mazda 6 a remarkably accomplished motor car for the money.  AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

FOR GIFT IDEAS?

MONEY

INTEREST RATES ARE LOW, AS SAVERS KNOW ONLY TOO WELL. BUT THERE IS AN ALTERNATIVE TO GRUMBLING

Peer treasure DO YOU WANT to earn a better rate on your savings than offered by the high street banks and help Scottish businesses while you are at it? Then peer-to-peer lending is well worth a look. At least once a week I get an email from a group called Save Our Savers, which purports to speak for disgruntled savers everywhere, and regularly calls for the Bank of England to hike base rates. The group doesn’t seem to care that raising base rates at this tentative point in economic recovery could bring about ﬁnancial Armageddon for swathes of the country’s businesses. Not only selﬁsh, but foolish, I’d say. The group’s energy would be far better spent lobbying the government to bring peer-to-peer lending under the protective wing of the Financial Services Compensation Scheme – but more on that later. The truth is there are higher interest rates available to savers – if they know where to look.

ILLUSTRATION: MH JEEVES

Beneﬁt If you have not heard of peer-topeer lending then a brief explanation is in order. Basically it matches money from savers to borrowers (individual or business). Because there are no advisers and • AUTUMN 2013

accountants taking a cut, both borrower and lender/saver beneﬁt from better rates. Some numbers to drive home this point. At the time of writing the information site Moneyfacts said the best paid savings account, the Post Ofﬁce, was paying a paltry 1.5 per cent before tax. Compare that to the pre-tax average returns with peer-to-peer lending services: 4.6 per cent (Zopa), 4 per cent (Ratesetter) and 5.8 per cent (Funding Circle).

Crowdfunding and social funding are not peer-to-peer lenders as they are based around a charity model and do not promise any return for investors. One thing anyone considering putting their savings into a peer-topeer site should know is that at present their money is not protected by the Financial Services Compensation Scheme. What does this mean? Well if your bank goes bust the FSCS will reimburse you up to £80,000. The scheme does not pay out for savings lost on peer-to-peer lending.

Expansion

It is important to stress what I mean by peer-to-peer lending, and also what I don’t mean. The three companies mentioned above have been the trailblazers of this new way of saving/borrowing in the UK. Over the last ﬁve years they have collectively lent £500 million and demand is growing rapidly. A recent study of the sector forecasted that it could be lending £12.5 billion annually within the next few years.

However peer-to-peer sites do their best to protect savers by splitting savers’ money across many different loans to give protection from any one borrower defaulting. Currently peer-to-peer lenders have very low default rates – Zopa’s is 0.85 per cent, signiﬁcantly lower than those of the high street banks. Hopefully I have now explained what is in it for savers. So let’s turn to businesses. Everyone knows that the big banks are just not lending to small and medium sized businesses – the lifeblood of any economy – despite being given millions by the government to do just that. The peer-to-peer lenders are now stepping in to ﬁll this gap: Zopa and

Ratesetter will lend to sole traders while Funding Circle will lend to businesses limited by guarantee. To date Funding Circle has lent £6.25 million to 121 Scottish businesses and currently has two Glasgow-based firms looking for finance on its site. One a landscaping company looking for £50,000 to help it expand, the other a sheet metal business seeking £60,000 to buy machinery. Past borrowers vary, though, and include everything from a family run hotel that borrowed to finance refurbishment to a law firm using its loan to fund expansion. Funding Circle – which only lends to businesses – differs from Zopa and Ratesetter in that it provides far more detail on who money will be lent out to. Indeed it is possible for savers to select which business they will lend to by sector (such as engineering or hospitality) or by location. Lenders can also ask questions directly of any business they are considering lending to. They can then state how much they want to lend and at what interest rate.

Popular The interest rate a business pays on its loan will be the average of all those offered by savers once the loan has closed on Funding Circle’s

Marketplace. In short the more popular the business is with savers the lower the interest rate a business will pay as savers bid against each other for a piece of the loan. The UK government recently gave peer-to-peer lenders £10 billion to lend out through its funding for lending scheme. Given the government’s annoyance at the big banks’ ongoing reluctance to lend to viable companies even more money looks likely to be channelled to small and medium-sized businesses this way in the near future. Indeed some councils have also decided to help local businesses by investing money through peer-to-peer lenders. Peer-to-peer lending is a relatively straightforward way to earn a higher rate of interest, while possibly helping the economy to grow. Just remember to keep an eye on the default rate.  Words: Lindsey Rogerson

WEALTH WARNING Lindsey Rogerson is an awardwinning investment journalist and a member of the Financial Services Consumer Panel. The views expressed are personal and do not constitute ﬁnancial advice. Individuals should seek professional advice before taking ﬁnancial decisions.

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

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AUTU

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Essentials WHETHER YOU’RE A BUSINESS TRAVELLER OR A TOURIST, VISITING FAMILY OR GOING TO A MEETING, OUR HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS AIRPORTS GUIDE WILL POINT YOU TO THE BEST FOOD, ACCOMMODATION AND TRANSPORT LINKS

Sumburgh

Kirkwall Stornoway Stornoway Benbecula Wick Wick John O’Groats

Barra

Inverness Inverness

Tiree Tiree Dundee Islay Islay Campbeltown

• AUTUMN 2013

AURORA-MAG.COM • HIAL.CO.UK

ESSENTIALS

Barra

PHOTOGRAPH: GENÈVE AÉROPORT

FROM THE AIRPORT

SPOTLIGHT Geneva Airport The airport is 4km from Geneva city centre and is well placed for destinations in both Switzerland and France – its perimeter runs along the French border. Every Saturday in the skiing season, Flybe runs a weekly direct ﬂight from Inverness, from 21 December to 8 March 2014. Flights leave Inverness at 13.20, arriving in Geneva at 16.40, and return ﬂights leave Geneva at 17.20, reaching Inverness at 18.40.

FROM THE AIRPORT Customers who have booked skiing holidays with Inghams have transfers to their resort included. For other travellers there are excellent connections. A single ticket is valid for trains, trams, buses and boats – and passengers who have just arrived can take a free ‘Unireso’ ticket from a machine. This is valid for 80 minutes, anywhere in Geneva. Car hire: Travellers heading for French destinations should book a hire car to collect in the ‘French sector’ of the airport; those bound for Swiss destinations should arrange to collect theirs in the ‘Swiss sector’. This saves time, and possibly an extra charge. French options include avis.fr, europcar.fr and hertz.fr. The Swiss equivalents are avis.ch, europcar.ch and hertz.ch. Taxi:

Fares to the city centre are about 35 Swiss francs (£24).

Bus:

Seven routes link the airport with all parts of the city, buses leaving every 8-15 minutes.

Train:

The station is accessed directly from the airport’s arrivals area, with trains to city centre leaving every 12 minutes at peak times and taking six minutes.

NIGHTCAP Le Bar has its own winter garden. For music and atmosphere try the Montreuz Jazz Café.

BON APPETIT Gourmets head to the Caviar House and Prunier Seafood Bar. For something meatier try La Terraza, serving all things Argentinian.

PILLOW TALK The bright, modern Nash Airport Hotel has a free shuttle bus from the arrivals hall.

In numbers

1 111 3.9 2 14 MEDITATION ROOM

DIRECT DESTINATIONS

KILOMETRE

RUNWAY

TERMINALS (ONE WINTER-ONLY)

MILLION PASSENGERS A YEAR

Car hire: Call Barra Car Hire, 01871 890313, or MacMillan Self Drive, 01871 890366 before you arrive. Taxi: Book with Barra Island Taxis, 01871 810012, or J Campbell, 01871 810216. Bus: Runs between the airport and Castlebay. Details from R MacMillan, 01871 890366; H MacNeil, 01871 810262; cne-siar.gov.uk.

BON APPETIT

The CASTLEBAY HOTEL uses the best of Barra produce. Call 01871 810223 or see castlebayhotel.com.

NIGHTCAP

The HEATHBANK BAR is in a former church whose thick walls enclose a bright bar with ﬁne views. Northbay, 01871 890266, barrahotel.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK Britain’s most westerly hotel, the ISLE OF BARRA BEACH HOTEL, looks over the sands of Tangasdale Beach, and makes the most of the island’s ﬁne lamb and ﬁsh. 01871 810383, isleofbarrahotel.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST Once you’ve landed, you’ve already seen the most famous sight – the beach landing strip. KISIMUL CASTLE is seat of the Clan MacNeil, and don’t miss the deserted village of BALNABODACH. The island is ideal for walking, cycling and wildlife watching.

Benbecula FROM THE AIRPORT

Car hire: Try MacLennans Garage, 01870 602191; Ask Car Hire, 01870 602818 or Laing Motors, 01878 700267, laingmotors.co.uk. Taxi: Book from Benbecula Taxis, 01870 602464, or MacVicar’s, 01870 603197. Bus: A regular service takes you to points all over

Benbecula, North Uist and South Uist. For details see cnesiar.gov.uk/travel.

BON APPETIT STEPPING STONE is popular for its delicious fare such as brochette of king scallops. Balivanich, 01870 603377.

NIGHTCAP Good selections of ales, wines and whiskies can be found at DARK ISLAND HOTEL, Liniclate, 01870 603030; ISLE OF BENBECULA HOUSE HOTEL, Creagorry, 01870 602024, isleshotelgroup.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK LIONACLEIT GUESTHOUSE is comfortable and set on a croft, with seven rooms for B&B guests and two selfcatering cottages. 01870 602176, lionacleitguesthouse.com. At KYLES FLODDA, a modern B&B overlooking North Uist, you’re well placed to explore nature. See kylesﬂodda.com. LANGASS LODGE at Loch Eport, North Uist, offers comfort and great cooking, using local game and seafood with garden herbs. 01876 580285, langasslodge.co.uk. On South Uist, the 18thcentury POLOCHAR INN makes great use of local ingredients, and is in a great setting with an ancient

standing stone. 01878 700215, polocharinn.com

House, Tangy, 01586 820466, dalnaspidal-guesthouse.com.

BE A TOURIST

NIGHTCAP

The scenery, ﬂora and fauna are spectacular so bring boots, camera and binoculars. The white beaches, lochs and hills calm the most troubled souls. Causeways link the island to North and South Uist.

BURNSIDE BAR is friendly and traditional. Burnside Square, 01586 552306.

WHAT’S ON TAIGH CHEARSABHAGH holds an art workshop on 21 and 22 November, on the theme of ‘Exploring Objects’.

Campbeltown FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Call Burbank Garage, 01586 544480, or Campbeltown Motor Co, 01586 552030. Taxi: Call Fona Taxis, 01586 554001; Roy’s Taxis, 01586 554625; Tavi’s Taxis, 01586 551122; Kintyre Connect Minibus Service, 07825 091502 or 07984 634824. Bus: Book ring-and-ride bus from airport by calling West Coast Motors, 01586 552319.

BON APPETIT DALNASPIDAL is a great place to stay and serves a mix of Scottish and South African dishes. Dalnaspidal Guest

PHOTOGRAPH: IAIN MCLEAN

William McIlvanney is appearing at Dundee Literary Festival

PILLOW TALK CRAIGARD HOUSE, an Italianate-style building, is a classy place to stay. Low Askomil, 01586 554242, craigard-house.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST The Mull of Kintyre gave its name to the UK’s biggestselling single. The record, featuring Campbeltown Pipe Band, was Paul McCartney’s love song to the area, which has many attractions. Walkers will like the KINTYRE WAY, where the view changes with every step, taking in Ireland, Islay, Jura and Arran. The glorious CAMPBELTOWN PICTURE HOUSE is the oldest cinema in Scotland. MACHRIHANISH golf course is one of the country’s ﬁnest.

Tay Street, 01382 200399. The excellent BON APPETIT brasserie offers tempting dishes such as grilled red mullet with fennel and orange dressing and beetroot puree. Exchange Street, 01382 809000, bonappetit-dundee.com.

NIGHTCAP The SPEEDWELL TAVERN, aka Mennie’s, has a ﬁne Edwardian interior and many whiskies. Perth Road, 01382 667783, speedwell-bar.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK Looking over the waterfront, the APEX is a modern comfort zone with a spa and a good restaurant. West Victoria Dock Road, 0845 365 0000, apexhotels.co.uk. MALMAISON opens in Whitehall Crescent on 1 December.

WHAT’S ON

BE A TOURIST

The Mull of Kintyre Bike Challenge, or MOKBIKE, for short, will draw riders of all ages and abilities to the peninsula’s roads on 13 October.

Whether you want to shop, enjoy art, or go sightseeing, this city is for you. The OVERGATE SHOPPING CENTRE is a great place to browse, DCA (Dundee Contemporary Arts) has an ever-changing programme of exhibitions and a great café. For maritime history visit Captain Scott’s ship, the RRS DISCOVERY, or HM FRIGATE UNICORN, the oldest British-built ship still aﬂoat. The SENSATION science centre, with its 60 handson exhibits, will excite youngsters’ curiosity.

Dundee FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Avis, Arnold Clark, Alamo and Europcar all serve the airport – call 01382 662200. Taxi: Booking in advance is advised. Call Tele Taxis on 01382 669333 or 50 50 50 Taxis on 01382 505050. Bus: The 8X runs Monday to Saturday, 6.30am-10.30pm, every 30 minutes. Airport to city centre and railway station takes about ﬁve minutes. Train: For destinations and times call 08457 484950 or see nationalrail.co.uk.

BON APPETIT NUMBER 25 is popular for its friendliness and value. South

WHAT’S ON The McManus is hosting an exhibition called RE:NEW, made up of some of the city’s most recent art acquisitions. It will run until spring 2014 and will be divided into two groups – one will be

ESSENTIALS

NIGHTCAP

NUMBER 27 is a bright bar with arcane beers served by friendly staff. 27 Castle Street, 01463 241999, number27inverness. co.uk. Folkies, ceilidh bands and comedy can all be enjoyed at HOOTANANNY’S, 61 Church Street, 01463 233651, hootananny.co.uk. By day the FOUNDRY is a relaxing café. After 8pm it does a brisk trade in beers, wines and cocktails. 28 Church Street, 01463 713005, foundryinverness.co.uk.

unusual perspectives of Dundee; the other will be works inspired by the natural world, such as Graham Fagen’s rose sculpture. DUNDEE LITERARY FESTIVAL, at the Bonar Hall from 24-27 October, features household names such as TV dragon Duncan Bannatyne, thriller writers Denise Mina and William McIlvanney and Great British Bake Off winner John Whaite. The city’s SCIENCE FESTIVAL, from 217 November, has a varied programme of talks and workshops for all ages.

PILLOW TALK Luxury is the order of the day at ROCPOOL RESERVE, but it’s not beyond affordable. Culduthel Road, 01463 240089, rocpool.com. The KINGSMILLS HOTEL, set elegantly in four acres of gardens, offers family rooms and two-bedroom, twobathroom apartments. Look out for a thank you letter from Robert Burns, who stayed here in 1787. The leisure club and spa will revitalise you. Culcabock Road, 01463 237166, kingsmillshotel.com. The ROYAL HIGHLAND HOTEL has been much-loved for over a century and a half. In the middle of town, it’s Victorian splendour at its best. Station Square, 01463 251451, royalhighlandhotel.co.uk. TRAFFORD BANK GUEST HOUSE, once home to a bishop, is a delightful place to stay. Each bedroom has a mix

Inverness FROM THE AIRPORT

Car hire: Options include Avis, 0844 544 6017, Europcar, 0871 384 1121, and Arnold Clark, 0845 607 4500. Taxi: Book with Inverness Taxis on 01463 222900. See inverness-taxis.co.uk. Bus: Airport bus goes to the city centre for £3.75 single. Stagecoachbus.com or 01463 239292 for other routes. Train: Nearest stations are Inverness and Nairn. See scotrail.com for times.

The MUSTARD SEED is rightly busy. 16 Fraser Street, 01463 220220, themustardseed restaurant.co.uk. CAFE1, despite its name, is very much a restaurant, emphasing seafood and quality cuts. 75 Castle Street, 01463 226200, cafe1.net. RIVER HOUSE RESTAURANT, a bright restaurant overlooking the Ness, impresses by using resources of the region. 1 Greig Street, 01463 222033, riverhouseinverness.co.uk. THE KITCHEN, also with striking river views, is deservedly popular. 15 Huntly Street, 01463 259119, kitchenrestaurant.co.uk.

PHOTOGRAPH: AIDAN BRADLEY

BON APPETIT

of antique and modern furniture. Fairﬁeld Road, 01463 241414, traffordbankguesthouse.co.uk. The luxurious CASTLE STUART, close to Inverness Airport, is a 17th-century tower in its own private grounds. 01463 790745, castlestuart.com.

GIOVANNI on 7-9 November and comedians ARDAL O’HANLON on 14 November and DANIEL SLOSS on 15 November. The INVERNESS FILM FESTIVAL, from 6-10 November, was ﬁnalising its programme as we went to press, but it always contains something special.

BE A TOURIST This wonderful city offers delightful RIVERSIDE WALKS and is an enjoyable place to shop. The hinterland is studded with castles and distilleries, many of which offer whisky tastings. The FLORAL HALL is an oasis of peace. Take a boat trip on LOCH NESS to search for the monster, visit nearby BRODIE CASTLE or CAWDOR CASTLE, wander on CULLODEN MOOR, where the Jacobite Rising was crushed in 1746. Equally atmospheric are the prehistoric CLAVA CAIRNS, a group of burial mounds in unspoilt woodland.

Islay FROM THE AIRPORT

Car hire: Booking in advance is advisable, with Islay Car Hire on 01496 810544 or D and N Mackenzie on 01496 302324. Taxi: Call Carol MacDonald Taxis on 01496 302155, Fiona’s Taxis on 01496 301622, Lamont’s Taxis on 01496 810449 or Rhinns Taxis on 01496 850170. Bus: Most places on the island are linked by B Mundell’s bus. Call 01496 840274 or ask at information desk.

WHAT’S ON

BON APPETIT

The Ironworks attracts plenty of tempting acts and this season is no exception, with TRAVIS coming on 18 November, the DARKNESS on 21 November and the VIEW on 19 December. Eden Court welcomes PAUL MERTON’S IMPRO CHUMS on 26 October, acclaimed play THE TAILOR OF INVERNESS on 30 October, Scottish Opera’s DON

NIGHTCAP

Machrihanish, Kintyre

The HARBOUR INN serves beef, lamb and seafood with style, in a scenic setting. Bowmore, 01496 810330, harbour-inn.com.

There’s a superb choice of malt whiskies at the LOCHSIDE HOTEL. Bowmore, 01496 810244, lochsidehotel.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK Charming rooms, great food and a beautiful location make the PORT CHARLOTTE HOTEL a great place to stay. 01496 850360, portcharlottehotel.co.uk. Friendly, historic, handy for all parts of the island, the BRIDGEND HOTEL is committed to local produce. 01496 810212, info@bridgend-hotel.com. AN TAIGH-OSDA is a cool hotel in Bruichladdich, overlooking Loch Indaal. 01496 850587, antaighosda.co.uk. KILMENY COUNTRY HOUSE is a small luxury hotel near Port Askaig.

PILLOW TALK

At historic WOODWICK HOUSE if you want a walk in the woods or on the beach, both are yards away. Evie, 01856 751330, woodwickhouse.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST

The Italian Chapel, Orkney

Occupying a great vantage point, it is set within woods and farmland. There are four colour-themed bedrooms and a suite. 01496 840668, kilmeny.co.uk. COILLABUS ECO DWELLINGS are two luxury cottages on the wild Oa peninsula. Each sleeps four and has a hand-made hot tub. Built with reclaimed wood and stone, the cottages have turfed roofs. 01852 200565, coillabus.com. The ISLAY HOTEL, in Port Ellen, has been rebuilt, and its pristine white walls shine out over the harbour, while the wood inside is warm and welcoming. Call 01496 300109. The OLD EXCISE HOUSE at Laphroaig is comfy, historic, welcoming – and walking distance from three distilleries. 01496 302567, theoldexcisehouse.com. The ISLAND BEAR, on the main street in Bowmore, is a recent, very tasteful addition to the island’s B&B options. 01496 810375, islandbear.co.uk.

whisky making, and all eight DISTILLERIES are open to visitors at various times. The island is a superb destination for walkers, anglers and birdwatchers. Autumn is the time to see geese by their tens of thousands – barnacle, brent, white-fronted, greylag and others. For a historical day out, it’s hard to beat FINLAGGAN, the ancient seat of the Lords of the Isles, and though the buildings are ruins, the site, beside a beautiful loch, is atmospheric. The ISLAY WOOLLEN MILL, at Bridgend, made the Highland tweed gear sported by Mel Gibson and Liam Neeson in their historical epics. Its shop is well worth a visit. 01496 810563, islaywoollenmill.co.uk. The MUSEUM OF ISLAY LIFE, at Port Charlotte, has exhibits dating from 8000BC to the 20th century and countless books and pictures. 01496 850358, islaymuseum.org.

Kirkwall

BE A TOURIST

WHAT’S ON November can be quiet – but not on Islay, where from the 8th to the 11th, venues across the island will come alive for the ISLAY SESSIONS, with pub gigs and musical workshops.

HELGI’S is Viking-inspired and very tasteful, with its slate ﬂoor, wood panelling and cosy atmosphere. A great place to enjoy real ale, good coffee and home baking. Albert Street, 01856 879293.

Islay is much less crowded and commercial than, say, Skye or Mull, yet its attractions are just as powerful. Not least is its status as a stronghold of

FROM THE AIRPORT

Car hire: Call WR Tullock on 01856 875500. Taxi: Call Bob’s Taxis on 01856 876543, Craigies Taxis on 01856 878787, George’s Taxis on 07541 034830 or Stromness Taxis on 01856 852852. Bus: The Jet bus operated by Stagecoach in Orkney runs all day – for times call the ﬁrm on 01856 870555 or the airport information desk on 01856 886210. See stagecoachbus. com for other Orkney routes.

BON APPETIT

LUCANO is named after Lucania, southern Italy, where the owner hails from, and this bright restaurant sticks to its roots, with the emphasis on good, fresh ingredients. 31-33 Victoria Street, Kirkwall, 01856 875687, lucanokirkwall.com.

NIGHTCAP

Kirkwall is enjoyable to wander around, with a busy harbour, narrow streets, lively pubs and the stately ST MAGNUS CATHEDRAL. Further aﬁeld, renowned archaeological wonders vie for attention. Perhaps the best of all is the prehistoric village of SKARA BRAE, with its perfectly intact shelves and doorways. Also stunning is the chambered tomb of MAESHOWE, with its passage carefully aligned so that the winter solstice sun shines through it to illuminate the chamber. The RING OF BRODGAR is up there with Callanish and Stonehenge in the standing stones league table, and the BROUGH OF BIRSAY, a tidal island rich in Norse ruins and birdlife, is an unforgettable place. The Neolithic TOMB OF THE EAGLES on South Ronaldsay is also worth a visit – you slide in on a large homemade skateboard. Just as intriguing is the ornate ITALIAN CHAPEL, painted by Italian prisoners during the Second World War. ORKNEY BREWERY, where beers such as Dark Island and Skull Splitter are made for a growing tribe of fans, is well worth a visit, with tours of the brewhouse and fermentation rooms and an appealing café.

WHAT’S ON

ORKNEY STORYTELLING FESTIVAL, at various venues from 24-27 October, features Bob Pegg with his one-man show about the Orkney explorer John Rae, born 200 years ago this year. Other master storytellers on the bill include Dale Jarvis, from Newfoundland, and Lawrence Tulloch, from Shetland.

Stornoway FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Carhire Hebrides has its ﬂeet based at the airport. Call 01851 706500 or see carhire-hebrides.co.uk. Taxi: Order from Castle Cabs, 01851 704636, before your arrival, pick one up at the terminal or call airport information, 01851 702256. Bus: Hourly service to town centre, Monday to Saturday. Visit cne-siar.gov.uk/travel.

BON APPETIT At the elegant PARK RESTAURANT you might start with seafood ﬁlo baskets, moving on to Lewis lamb shank and spicy mint couscous. 30 James Street, 01851 702485, theparkguesthouse.co.uk. Booking is essential at DIGBY CHICK restaurant, which has two menus – one for early birds, and an à la carte from 7pm. Expect ultra-fresh ingredients, expertly prepared. 5 Bank Street, 01851 700026, digbychick.co.uk. AN LANNTAIR is a thriving arts centre with workshops, a cinema and gallery. The restaurant and bar overlooks the harbour, and serves food from 10am till late. Kenneth Street, 01851 703307, lanntair.com.

NIGHTCAP MCNEILLS is a cosy bar with live music. 11 Cromwell Street, 01851 703330. The STAR INN is small but has a good selection of spirits. 13 South Beach, 01851 702289.

PILLOW TALK

Brodie Castle, Inverness

BROAD BAY HOUSE, a ﬁne guesthouse, is at Back, on the coast seven miles north of Stornoway. Its spacious rooms, furnished in solid oak, each have their own have wi-ﬁ and iPod docks. 01851 820990, broadbayhouse.co.uk. The three-star CABARFEIDH HOTEL, a mile from the town

centre, scores highly for cuisine and service. Manor Park, Perceval Road South, 01851 702604, cabarfeidhhotel.co.uk. HOLM VIEW GUEST HOUSE is minutes from the airport. This four-star, five-bedroom house has splendid sea views and a host who goes out of his way to ensure that guests enjoy their stay. 18 Rathad na Bhraighe, 01851 706826. BRAIGHE HOUSE, overlooking the sea just a few minutes from the airport, has five immaculate bedrooms and serves a superb breakfast billed as the Stornoway Stack. 20 Braighe Road, 01851 705287, braighehouse.co.uk. At Leverburgh, on Harris, AM BOTHAN is a new five-star bunkhouse with great views.

BE A TOURIST Stornoway is a great place to relax and explore. Spend time at the harbour, watching the ﬁshermen unload their catches – which you could be eating in a couple of hours. Be sure to see CALLANISH, one of Britain’s most magical places. No-one knows the exact purpose of these ancient standing stones, but their power is undeniable. If you have time, don’t just look at the main group, explore nearby stones, too. Also in the area, DUN CARLOWAY BROCH is a magniﬁcent Iron Age tower you can explore.

WHAT’S ON Wolfstone founding member DUNCAN CHISHOLM brings something special to An Lanntair on 22 November in the form of Kin, a performance bringing together live contemporary folk music, ﬁlm and photographs to celebrate landscape, language, tradition, community and family.

Sumburgh FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Call Star Rent-a-Car on 01950 460444. Taxi: Call Boddam Cabs on 01950 460111, J & I Taxis on

be a

PHOTOGRAPH: SCOTTISH VIEWPOINT

ESSENTIALS

Callanish Standing Stones, Lewis

01950 422207 or Allied Taxis on 01595 690069. Bus: A regular airport bus takes you to Lerwick in about 40 minutes. Call John Leask & Sons on 01565 693162.

BON APPETIT BUSTA HOUSE deserves its reputation among foodies. Busta, 01806 522506, bustahouse.com. The SCALLOWAY HOTEL twins stunning waterfront views with a high-quality menu that makes a feature of Shetland’s excellent seafood. Main Street, Scalloway, 01595 880444, scallowayhotel.co.uk.

NIGHTCAP THE LOUNGE is a busy pub in Lerwick, good for live music. Mounthooly Street, 01595 692231

PILLOW TALK The 32-room SUMBURGH HOTEL, very handy for the airport, is friendly and comfortable. 01950 460394, sumburghhotel.com.

BE A TOURIST Beside the airport is one of Shetland’s principal sights – JARLSHOF. It contains remains from 2,500BC up to the 17th century, making it a fascinating place to visit. MOUSA BROCH is the best preserved Pictish tower in the country. WILDLIFE is a Shetland strong suit, with Arctic skuas, great northern divers and killer whales among species to spot. On Yell the SHETLAND GALLERY aims to showcase the islands’ best contemporary art.

WHAT’S ON Youngsters dressing as a dinosaur for the DINO DISCO on 19 October at Shetland Museum could win themselves a prize. Catch the top Irish accordionist SHARRON SHANNON at Clickimin Leisure Complex on 2 November. Still in acoustic mode, ﬁddle hero ALY BAIN plays at Mareel the following night, with Ale Moller and Bruce Molsky. RICKY ROSS, once of Deacon Blue, appears there on 19 November.

Tiree FROM THE AIRPORT Car and bike hire: Call MacLennans, 01879 220555. Taxi: Order from John Kennedy Taxis, 01879 220419. Bus: The on-demand dial-abus is on 01879 220419.

BON APPETIT CEABAR is a guest house with a very popular restaurant commanding great sunset views. Booking advised. 01879 220684, ceabar.com.

NIGHTCAP The TIREE LODGE HOTEL is a popular, often lively pub at Gott Bay, 01879 220368.

PILLOW TALK ROCKVALE GUEST HOUSE is a friendly, comfortable place to stay, with a lovely, bright lounge. 01879 220675, rockvaletiree.co.uk. The charming SCARINISH

LAIRD For more information call 0844 493 2108

HOTEL offers simple, beautifully cooked food. After eating, relax in the Lean To bar. 01879 220308, tireescarinishhotel.com. KIRKAPOL HOUSE is a converted Victorian church beside the sea. The hosts are happy to collect guests from the airport and will supply packed lunches. 01879 220729, kirkapoltiree.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST

AN IODHLANN is the island’s historical centre and the place to shed light on your Tiree ancestry. See aniodhlann.co.uk or call 01879 220793. The RINGING STONE is a boulder, probably dumped by a glacier, which makes a metallic clang when hit with another stone. DUN MOR, at Vaul, is a broch, or place of refuge, built in about 60AD. Tiree is one of the UK’s windiest places, and also among the sunniest and most beautiful, with white, sandy beaches. See isleoftiree.com.

WHAT’S ON

TIREE TECH WAVE, on 24-28 October, is a gathering of progressive thinkers in the ﬁelds of technology, art and design.

Wick John O’Groats FROM THE AIRPORT Car hire: Book with Dunnetts Garage on 01955 602103, Richards Garage on 01955 604123, Europcar on 01667 462052 or National Car Hire on 01463 238084. Taxi: Call Jimmy’s Taxis on 01955 602727, Johnnie’s Taxis on 01955 605041 or Millers Taxis on 01955 606464. Bus: Stagecoach 82 and 182 buses stop at the airport, providing connections to Wick and Thurso. The 25X links Wick with Inverness. For times see stagecoachbus.com or call 01463 239292. Train: Wick station is 1.5 miles from the airport, with trains to Thurso and Inverness and stations between.

BON APPETIT

The CAPTAIN’S GALLEY, a superb seafood restaurant serves local produce in converted ice house and bothy. The Harbour, Scrabster, 01847 894999, captainsgalley.co.uk.

HEATHROW CONNECTIONS

NIGHTCAP

The ALEXANDER BAIN, named after the Wick man who invented the electric clock, is a bright, roomy bar, serving a good choice of ales and bar meals. 01955 609920. The PORTLAND ARMS is an atmospheric and cosy former coaching inn in Lybster. 01593 721721, portlandarms.co.uk.

PILLOW TALK

The QUAYSIDE B&B is friendly and every room has a harbour view. Harbour Quay, 01955 603229, quaysidewick.fsnet.co.uk.

BE A TOURIST

Need to get to Heathrow? It’s easily done from airports served by regular ﬂights from Inverness and Dundee. Journey times and fares are intended as a guide.

 From Luton A pre-booked taxi from Prestige Airport Cars takes 50 minutes, from £55. A National Express coach takes 1 hour 5 minutes and costs £21.90.

 From Gatwick

WICK HERITAGE MUSEUM has won awards for its displays on the town’s history as a ﬁshing port and centre for glass-making and distilling. CAITHNESS HORIZONS, in Thurso, is a must-visit museum, with much to see and regular events. TIMESPAN, in Helmsdale, is a superb attraction loved by genealogists and casual visitors alike. JOHN O’ GROATS is the most northerly settlement in mainland Britain and is being transformed. A few miles west is the CASTLE OF MEY, with its ornate turrets and walled garden. The FLOW COUNTRY, Europe’s biggest blanket bog, is a striking landscapes, with a bleak appearance but a wealth of birdlife. Ruined CASTLE SINCLAIR GIRNIGOE is a ﬁne sight.

A pre-booked taxi from Prestige Airport Cars takes 45 minutes, from £45. A National Express coach takes 1 hour and costs £25.

 From London City A pre-booked taxi from Riverside Cars takes 1 hour 15 minutes, from £50. It costs £5.30 and takes 1 hour 40 minutes to transfer via Docklands Light Railway (DLR) to Canning Town, Jubilee line tube to Green Park and Piccadilly line tube to Heathrow. Or take the DLR to Canning Town, Jubilee line tube to Baker Street, Bakerloo line tube to Paddington (1 hour) then Heathrow Express, which leaves Paddington every 15 minutes and takes 15 minutes to reach Heathrow. This costs a total of £24.30. Transferring by National Express coach involves two changes and takes 3 hours plus, so is not the best option.

Contact Prestige Airport Cars: 03331 231818 or prestigeairportcars.co.uk Riverside Cars: 020 7231 7766 or riversidecarslondon.com National Express: 08717 818181 or nationalexpress.com For train and tube information see tﬂ.gov.uk

For ﬂight and booking information visit

highlands & islands airports

hial.co.uk

Local access, global outlook

for a weekend or visit www.ntsholidays.com

MY AUTUMN

Paul Murton THIS ENERGETIC FILM-MAKER LOVES HISTORY, LITERATURE, EXPLORING SCOTLAND AND TELLING ITS STORIES. THIS TIME HE HEADS FOR THE ISLANDS

UTUMN is a great season for reflection. It’s great when the nights are drawing in and you can sit in front of an open fire and sample some malt whiskies – that’s the best part of it. I’ve been pretty busy this year working on Grand Tours of the Scottish Islands. We shot it in the spring and then edited it in the summer. Shooting went fantastically well – we were blessed with some superb weather. It hardly rained on us at all. It differs from the previous series in two ways. We are concentrating on islands, so it has a very maritime flavour to it – lots of boats, lots of sea. Also in previous series I was guided through Scotland by this old guidebook, Black’s Picturesque Guide to Scotland, but Black’s didn’t visit many of the islands, so this time I’m following the journals of various early travel writers, including Sarah Murray, who is my favourite, Dorothy Wordsworth, Dr Johnson and Hugh Miller. It gives the series more points of view. Islands have had an allure for me as a child. Humans being naturally inquisitive and adventurous, you see an island on

• AUTUMN 2013

the horizon and you want to go and set foot on it. It’s really difficult to say which island is my favourite. I’m very partial to Fair Isle. It’s a wonderful little island. It’s the remotest island community in Britain, and it seems to be surviving and thriving quite well in the 21st century. Foula is a very surprising island in a lot of ways. It’s incredible to think that this dramatic lump of rock, with the highest cliffs in Britain, has been home to a community for thousands of years. Eigg has a fascinating history and an interesting dynamic. It’s been through great changes, with the community buying the island, and it’s also a fantastically beautiful part of the Hebrides, where the views are just astonishing. There’s a grandeur there that is pretty much unparalleled. Making the series, we only got five days per programme so we had to set things up in advance, but there’s such a thing as island time – people are reluctant to commit to meeting you at such and such a point, at such and such a time. So you have to improvise a lot. You have to go with the flow, and that’s quite enjoyable.  Grand Tours of the Scottish Islands is on BBC One Scotland on Mondays at 7.30pm