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by
Agata Gadaleta and Roberto Tuberosa
FEATURES
FOOD TECHNOLOGY
by Luigi De Lisio
AND CULTURE
by Andrea Maraschi
Luigi Pelliccia
Challenges and opportunities of the “durum wheat-pasta” supply chain at the From Seed To Pasta V
by Agata Gadaleta
University of Bari “Aldo Moro” and Roberto Tuberosa
University of Bologna, FSTP5’s Organizing Committee
The conference coincides with an important moment for the University of Bari, which is celebrating its 100th anniversary since its foundation
From 24 to 27 September 2025, the international conference “From Seed To Pasta V” (A Sustainable Durum Wheat Chain for Food Security and Healthy Lives) will take place in Bari, Italy. The conference, now in its fifth edition and conceived, as a series, in 2008 by Professor Roberto Tuberosa, is an important worldwide appointment for researchers as well as for operators in the cereal sector to discuss the main innovations in genetic research and not only in the
durum wheat-pasta chain. The main objective of FSTP5 is to present the results of international research with a multidisciplinary approach to meet the current and future challenges facing the durum wheat-pasta supply chain, with particular reference to climate change issues. The conference comes at a very important historical moment for the University of Bari Aldo Moro, which is celebrating its 100th anniversary, and even more so for the Department of Soil, Plant
and Food Sciences (Di.S.P.A.), which has behind it a history of almost 90 years (until 2012 as the ‘Faculty of Agriculture’) in the last of which it has evolved considerably and achieved high levels of qualification that have allowed it in 2023 to be recognised by ANVUR as a ‘Department of Excellence’ for the quality of its research, scientific planning and teaching.
Di.S.P.A. is at the highest level for the quality of its scientific production with professors present in the rankings of international scientific research excellence, and among the many topics of agricultural research it deals with from the genetics of cereals to their transformation into finished products. In this field, the research group coordinated by Agata Gadaleta has always been involved in advanced research on cereals in numerous regional, national and international research projects in close collaboration with Roberto Tuberosa’s research group. Both groups have focused their research on genomics applied to the genetic improvement of durum wheat, as evidenced by the long list of publications in important scientific journals and collaborations with Italian and foreign seed companies. Research activities have focused on the study of resistance to biotic and abiotic stresses, characterisation of QTL (Quantitative Trait Locus) to identify the genes of the most
important plant pathways, using genetics, molecular biology and biotechnology approaches, including gene editing techniques, now called TEA (Assisted Evolution Techniques). These studies have made it possible to introduce genes into durum wheat cultivars that are involved in important nutritional quality aspects such as high fibre, antioxidant and carotenoid content, phenols, proteins, micronutrients, low allergen and mycotoxin content, and at the same time pathogen resistance through traditional and innovative techniques.
The recent PRIMA CEREALMED project aimed to enhance cereal biodiversity in the Mediterranean basin in order to select new varieties that are better adapted to a changing climate. The valorisation of cereal biodiversity together with increased resilience to climate change and sustainability of the sector are the objectives of Cerealmed, the research project coordinated by Agata Gadaleta, which was awarded EUR 1.3 million within the Prima programme (Partnership for Research and Innovation in the Mediterranean Area). The FSTP5 conference is also a great opportunity for all those working in the cereal sector in Italy and even more so in Apulia, as Apulia is one of the main producers of durum wheat in Italy. It will discuss the challenges posed by the
climatic crisis that requires up-todate crop management and rapid genetic improvement, made possible by breeding methods based on advanced genomic and phenotyping knowledge to identify superior haplotypes in terms of quantity and quality of production. FSTP5 will provide excellent opportunities to present and discuss the challenges posed by the climatic crisis that require adopting more sustainable crop management practices and faster selection gains, made possible by state-of-the-art breeding methods. The conference will also include a session, on the occasion of the 100th anniversary of his birth, in honour of Professor Gian Tommaso Scarascia Mugnozza, who graduated in Agronomy at the University of Bari in 1947, and later became Professor of Genetic Improvement of Agricultural Plants from 1968 and Dean of the Faculty of Agriculture from 1970 to 1976. Given the importance of durum wheat as a staple food in the diet of millions of people in Mediterranean countries and elsewhere, the FSTP5 conference will contribute to the debate on how best to sustain the world’s food and agricultural systems, from input to final consumption, while also considering changing consumer preferences and social interests in relation to health and environmental issues. These objectives will be pursued by bringing together some of the world’s leading experts in durum wheat genetics. The wide range of topics covered by the conference and the presence of industrial speakers will provide a high degree of interdisciplinarity and encourage new public-private partnerships. The FSTP5 conference will provide a unique and timely opportunity to discuss and define actions to improve the competitiveness and sustainability of the durum wheat supply chain from seed to pasta.
Agata Gadaleta, Roberto Tuberosa
International Wheat Congress 2026 in Bologna
The International Wheat Congress (IWC) is a prestigious biennial event established in July 2019 in Saskatoon, Canada. It is a major meeting for the global wheat community, providing a platform for leading experts, researchers, policy makers and industry professionals to discuss advances in wheat breeding, genetics, genomics and agronomy. The 2024 edition (the third) will be held in Perth, Australia, from 22-27 September. In 2026, however, the event will be in Italy, specifically in Bologna from 24 to 26 May at the city’s Palazzo dei Congressi.
2024 NPA Annual Meeting & World Pasta Congress
The NPA Annual Meeting will be held from 23 to 25 October in Philadelphia (PA) at the Downtown Sheraton Hotel in conjunction with the World Pasta Congress 2024. The event will focus on recent trends and hot topics in the pasta industry, while speakers will offer participants know-how and solutions on key business issues. Extensive networking opportunities and more informal activities, including historical and cultural tours, will frame the event. “The NPA is celebrating its 120 anniversary, and combining the Annual Meeting and World Pasta Congress is one way to celebrate. This conference is a space for the industry to come together to connect on issues of importance and share knowledge,” said NPA Executive Director, Carla Saunders. “The impressive lineup of speakers, industry-leading presentations and networking opportunities are not to be missed.”
Heinz launches “fail-proof” carbonara in a can for Gen Z shoppers
Heinz has launched a “fail-proof” spaghetti carbonara in a can for Gen Z shoppers. Featuring pasta in a creamy sauce with pancetta, the NPD (rsp: £2/400g) is Heinz’s first pasta launch in a decade. Billed as “a fail-proof, quick and easy carbonara that comes with absolutely zero drama”, the NPD is targeted specifically at Gen Z shoppers, who wanted their food to be “both fast and convenient”, according to Heinz. It has launched DTC via Heinz to Home and will hit supermarket shelves in September. “We understand that people are looking for convenient meals that are effortless to prepare, and our new Spaghetti Carbonara delivers just that,” said Kraft Heinz meals director Alessandra de Dreuille. “It’s the perfect solution for a quick and satisfying meal at home.” This latest launch joins a raft of NPD by Heinz aimed squarely at younger shoppers over recent months.
Olam Agri to build pasta facility in Ghana
Olam Agri, an international company focused on the food, feed and fiber in emerging markets, plans to build a pasta production facility and expand its wheat flour production capacity in Ghana in a two-phase project with the potential to meet total pasta demand in the West African nation of over 33 million people. Olam Agri, which is 64.5% owned by Singaporebased Olam Group, has operated in Ghana for three decades and said it intends to bring pasta products closer to consumers with the country’s only production facility, directly sourcing and milling premium wheat for better quality control.
Milo Group: exports grow in the first half year
Milo, a Bitonto-based company specialising in the production of fresh pasta and known on the Italian and foreign markets under its own brand name “Casa Milo”, continues its growth trend in 2024, investing in the innovation of technologies and production methods, with a particular focus on the environment. In addition to the growth in the dry, fresh and egg pasta segments, the first half of 2024 also showed an overall growth of more than 15% in the bakery segment compared to the first half of 2023. Also in the first half of 2024, the foreign market is flying with +35% compared to the same period last year, and an increase in dry pasta production of +20%. According to a note by Giovanni Milo, Supply Chain Manager of the Milo S.p.A. Group, the goal is “to close 2024 with a turnover of 45 million”.
France: wheat harvest at lowest level in 41 years
France has reported its lowest wheat production since 1983, according to a market analysis by Argus Media, according to which the quantity harvested in the transalpine country in 2024 would amount to 25.17 million tonnes. Although this is a result at an all-time low, analysts argue that it should not affect the world cereal market, which would still remain balanced. More damaging are the consequences for producers, who are also burdened by non-reminiscent loans, dragged down by the abundance of wheat in the world. Numbers that obviously take their toll on exports to non-EU countries, which are expected to drop by 60% to 4.1 million tonnes, the lowest level since 2001/21, for an estimated loss of EUR 1.4 billion.
Academia Barilla brings the Italian gastronomic tradition on a cruise
Academia Barilla, the prestigious “Food Academy” of the Barilla Group, boarded the World Traveller ship that cruised the Mediterranean in 2024. During the cruise, guests participated in Italian cooking masterclasses with Chef Marcello Zaccaria and tasted gourmet dishes prepared with Barilla’s Al Bronzo pasta. During the voyage, passengers explored regional cuisines in various Italian ports. Guided by Chef Zaccaria, they visited local producers and markets to buy fresh ingredients and participate in Masterclasses on regional preparations, such as pasta with pesto and basil from Porto Venere, amatriciana with guanciale from Civitavecchia and pasta with clams from the Venetian Lagoon. This culinary journey offered an authentic overview of Italian gastronomy. Chef Zaccaria also stayed with the other professional chefs on board the American ship to share industry best practices, the secrets of Italian cuisine, and how to cook and serve Pasta Selezione Oro Chef Food Service.
International trade, customs reform simplifies exports
Awareness and recognition of the fundamental role of international trade for the Italian economy (in the sense of imports and exports) has led governments to implement a customs reform that was definitively approved by the Council of Ministers at the beginning of August and will be published in the Official Gazette in a few days, to come into force immediately. This is an important step forward to facilitate the work of Italian exporting and importing companies. In fact, it will be reduced from over 400 articles of the law to 122 articles, which will also greatly reduce the work involved in enforcing the regulations.
Functional pasta with omega-3 and 6
by Luigi De Lisio Bachelor of Science Degree in Food Science Former Technologist at the Molise Science and Technology Park (PST)
Another type of functional pasta that is important from a nutritional and physiological point of view is represented by products containing fatty acids in view of the various beneficial health effects recognised for these substances. The fatty alphalinolenic acid (Ala) (omega-3) and linoleic acid (Al) (omega-6) are defined as essential since the human body is unable to synthesise these molecules and, therefore, must necessarily take them in through food. The main sources of omega-6 fatty acids (in the Al molecular form) are wheat germ oil, seed oils (soya, sunflower and corn) and dried fruit (walnuts, pine nuts, peanuts, etc.); however, as we shall see in the text of this article, omega-3 fatty acids must be given more importance in one’s
Product overview
diet. The latter (in the Ala molecular form) are present in high quantities in flaxseed, chia seed and hempseed oil and, and to a lesser extent, in soya oil and walnuts. Two other omega-3 fatty acid molecules of great nutritional and physiological interest are docosapentaenoic acid (Epa) and docosahexaenoic acid (Dha). These nutrients are found in significant quantities in fishery products and, above all, in oily fish such as tuna, mackerel, salmon, sardine, herring, etc.
Physiological aspects
Although the importance of the introduction of omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids into one’s diet is recognised, the ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids from dietary intake is also important.
Unfortunately, over the past 100 years in Western populations this ratio has shifted in favour of omega-6 fatty acids. This shift has been particularly significant in some countries such as the United States, Canada and Great Britain; from a meta-analysis of available data, the shift in this ratio appears to be related to an increase in cardiovascular disease (Caboni, 2022). In view of the above, it would seem justifiable to revise past suggestions that indicated an optimal omega-6/omega-3 ratio ranging from 5:1 to 10:1 (Who & Fao, 1995). In this regard, Holub (2002) reports that Health Canada recommends reducing the ratio of omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids to 4; the CREA healthy eating guidelines suggest a ratio of 5 (CREA, 2018). Also from a strictly
metabolic point of view, the importance of omega-6 to omega3 fatty acids ratio from dietary intake, and in particular from plant foods and derivatives, can be understood, since linoleic acid (omega-6) is converted to docosapentaenoic acid (Dpa) with arachidonic acid as intermediate metabolite, while alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3) is converted to docosapentaenoic acid (Epa) and then to docosahexaenoic acid (Dha); and yet, the two metabolic pathways share the same enzymes that, therefore, influence the molecular conversion processes (Rodriguez-Leyva, 2010). Efsa, on the other hand, has not provided guidance on the omega-6/omega-3 fatty acid ratio to be introduced in the diet, but it recommends an adequate daily intake of omega-3 fatty acids, as a sum of Dha + Eha, of 250 mg.
Regulatory aspects
At present, the European legislation (EU Reg. No. 116/2010, EU Reg. (EU) No. 432/2012) authorises, provided certain concentrations are reached (0.3g or 0.6 g of α-linolenic acid per 100 g
and 100 kcal of product), the use of the nutrition claim “source of” or “rich in omega-3 fatty acids”, respectively. If the conditions of
source of omega-3 fatty acids are fulfilled, the current legislation permits the following health claim as well: “alpha-linolenic acid
(omega-3) contributes to the maintenance of normal blood cholesterol levels” along with a sentence such as “the beneficial effect is obtained with a daily intake of 2 g of alpha-linolenic acid”. Whereas, if the condition of at least 1.5 g linoleic acid (Al) (omega-6 fatty acids) per 100 g and per 100 kcal of product is met, the claim “the linoleic acid contributes to the maintenance of normal blood cholesterol levels” can be made along with a sentence such as “the beneficial effect is obtained with a daily intake of 10 g linoleic acid”. With regards to omega-3 fatty acids, such as docosapentaenoic acid (Epa) and docosahexaenoic acid (Dha), the current European legislation (Reg. (EU) No.116/2010, Reg. (EU) No. 432/2012, Reg. (EU) No. 536/2013) authorises the following health claims: “Epa and Dha contribute to normal heart function”; “Dha contributes to the maintenance of normal blood triglyceride levels”; “Epa and Dha contribute to the maintenance of normal blood
pressure”; “Dha and Epa contribute to the maintenance of normal blood triglyceride levels”. Please refer to the above-mentioned regulations for full details regarding the conditions of use of the above-mentioned health claims.
Flaxseed flour is mixed with durum wheat semolina
Product development and formulations
In order to develop and optimise formulations for pasta containing omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, certain critical aspects must be taken into account, such as: the oxidative processes that may occur during technological processing and during the product shelf-life due to the high degree of unsaturation of omega-3 and 6 fatty acids; the levels of omega-3 and 6 to be achieved should nutrient losses occur during
cooking; and the maximum percentage of flour or supplements containing omega-3 and 6 that does not cause any negative sensory effect on the finished product.
Linseed
In order to produce pasta containing omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, the use of flaxseedderived flours (suitably delipidised) in a mixture with durum wheat semolina may be a suitable solution. In flax seed, the nutritional composition can be observed as specified in Table 1.
Table 1
First of all, it can be seen that the flaxseed has a low carbohydrate content of 7 g (European method), (De Lisio L., Jan-Feb 2022), whereas the protein content is high (20 g) and also the lipid content (33 g). The lipid substances that can be found in linseed contain about 60% omega-3 fatty acids (thus about 20 g omega-3 fatty acids (Ala)/100 g seed) and 15% omega-6 fatty acids (thus about 5 g omega-6 fatty acids (Al)/100 g seed), (Usda Food Composition Databases, Food Data Central). The ratio of omega6/ omega-3 fatty acid, which is very low at 0.25, is interesting from a physiological standpoint of view.
Chia seeds
Chia seeds also represent a peculiar nutritional composition (Table 2), both in terms of low carbohydrate content of about 8.3 g (European method) and the amount of omega-3 fatty acids, which is about 70% of the lipids (about 20.4 g omega-3 fatty acids (Ala)/100 g seed), and omega-6 fatty acids, which is about 20% of the lipids
Defatted chia seed powder since 2023
(about 5.8 g omega-6 fatty acids (Al)/100 g seed). The ratio of omega-6/ omega-3 fatty acids is very low, i.e. 0.3. In addition, chia seeds are rich in vitamin B1 and B3 and in some minerals (calcium, iron, magnesium, manganese, phosphorus and zinc), (Usda Food Composition Databases, Food Data Central). By means of appropriate delipidisation systems, flour with significant amounts of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids can be produced from chia seeds. With Regulation (EU) N2020/500 concerning novel foods, the European Commission had authorised the use of two types of partially defatted chia powder, i.e. high-protein and high-fibre chia powder, for certain foods. However, with regard to the use of these powders in pasta production, the Commission reserved the right
to carry out further investigations before authorising their use. With EU Regulation 2023/2214 of 23/11/2023, the European Commission extended the use of high-fibre defatted chia powder to five other food categories including “pasta products”. The use of this ingredient is authorised in the pasta production in a maximum quantity of 8g/100g of product and must meet the following chemical composition: moisture ≤ 9%, protein ≥ 24%, fat ≤ 12% and fibre ≥ 50%. However, the marketing authorisation for
Table 2
this flour was only granted, for a period of 5 years from 13 November 2023, to the company Functional Product Trading Arica SA/BENEXIA, which also obtained the protection of scientific study data. Therefore, now that the ingredient has been approved, the aim is to develop formulations and products containing the required amounts of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids to authorise the use of claims permitted by the current legislation and, at the same time, meeting suitable quality characteristics.
Ingredients from fishery products
As far as omega-3 fatty acids, Epa and Dha, are concerned, significant sources of these substances are represented by fishery products and, since they may lead to negative sensory effects in pasta, the use of micro-encapsulated ingredients in formulations may be an appropriate solution. In this regard, Iafelice et al. (2008), (Caboni, 2022), had developed spaghetti with the addition of a
Shelf-life of pasta with omega-3 was found to be the same as the traditional pasta
microencapsulated commercial supplement (0.6%, 1.2% and 1.8%) containing Epa and Dha in collaboration with the PST. The shelf-life of pasta supplemented with omega-3 was the same as the traditional pasta. The authors state that the product with 1.2% supplement (equal to 141 mg of omega-3 fatty acids/100 g dry matter) had a high sensory acceptability, cooking losses of less than 10% and quality parameter values (sensory evaluation) that do not differ from control production. Pasta with added omega-3 fatty acids may contribute to increased consumption of omega-3 fatty acids and thus promote a diet with a lower ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids.
Pasta with hempseed flour
The nutritional, qualitative and relevant aspects of pasta production with hempseed flour have been extensively discussed in a previous article to which we refer for details (De Lisio L., “Molini d’Italia”, sept. 2023).
Luigi De Lisio luigidelisio@libero.it
REFERENCES
• De Lisio L., 2021, Paste alimentari che riducono l’indice glicemico post-prandiale, Materie prime e processi applicabili nella produzione della pasta per il mercato europeo, “Pasta&Pastai”, n. 180, May 2021.
• R. Cubadda e E. Marconi, Atti del 5° Convegno AISTEC, “Cereali, scienza e benessere dal campo alla tavola”, June 2003.
• De Lisio L., Ricerca e sviluppo di paste dietetiche e funzionali, “Tecnica Molitoria”, June 2004, pp. 532-535.
• Ministero della Salute, Linee guida sui probiotici e prebiotici, rev. March 2018.
• Reg. (EU) 2015/2314 of Dec. 7, 2015 authorizing a health claim made on food, other than those referring to the reduction of disease risk and child development and health, and amending Regulation EC No. 432/2012.
• Kreft S., Knapp M., Kreft I., Extraction of rutin from buckwheat (Fagopyrumesculentum-Moench) seeds and determination by capillary electrophoresis, “Journal of Agricultural and Food chemistry”, 47 (11), 1999.
• Park C.H., Kim Y.B., Choi Y.S., Heo K., Kim S.L., Lee K.C., Chang K.J., Lee H.B., Rutin content in food products processed from groats, leaves and flowers of buckwheat. “Fagopyrum”, 17, 2000, pp. 63-66.
• Watanabe M., Catechins as antioxidants from buckwheat (FagopyrumesculentumMoench) groats, “Journal of Agricultural and food Chemistry”, 46, 1998, pp. 839-845.
• Kayashita J., Shimaoka I., Nakajoh M., Kishida N., Kato N., Consumption of a buckwheat protein extract retards 7,12dimethylbenz(alpha)anthracene-induced mammary carcinogenesis in rats, “Bioscience, Biotechnology and Biochemistry”, 63, 1999, pp. 1837-1839.
• Liu Z., Ishikawa W., Huang X., Tomotake H., Kayashita J., Watanabe H., Nkajoh M., Kato N., A buckwheat protein product suppresses 1,2 dimethylhydrazine-induced colon carcinogenesis in rats by reducing cell proliferation, “The Journal of Nutrition”, 131, 2001, pp. 850-1853.
• Skrabanja V., Liljeberg E.H., Kreft I., Bjorck I.M., Nutritional properties of starch in buckwheat products: studies in vitro and in vivo, “Journal of Agricultrural and Food Chemistry”, 49, 2001, pp. 490-496.
• Foster-Powell K., Ha Holt S., Brand-Miller J.C., International table of glycemic index and glycemic load values. 2002, “Am. J. Clin. Nutr.”, 76, 2002, pp. 5-56.
• Marconi E., De Lisio L., Falasca L., Di Camillo A., Colonna M., Marinucci B., Messia M.C., Iacobelli A.M., Cubadda R., Utilizzazione del grano saraceno per la produzione di paste, biscotti ed estrusi cotti a elevato valore dieteticonutrizionale, 6° convegno AISTEC, “Cereali: Biotecnologie e processi innovativi, una sfida per un mondo in cambiamento”, June 2005, Valenzano (BA).
• Caboni M. F., Integrazione di prodotti da cereali con acidi grassi omega-3, “Pasta&Pastai”, 189, Jun.-Jul., 2022.
• Who & Fao, Joint Expert Consultation Report, Fats and oils in human nutrition, “Nutr. Rev.”, 53 (7), 1995, pp. 202-205.
• Holub B. J., Clinical nutrition 4: Omega-3 fatty acids in cardiovascular care “CMAJJAMC”, 166 (5), 2002, pp. 608-615.
• CREA, “Linee guida per una sana alimentazione italiana”, 2018.
• Rodriguez-Leyva D., Pierce G.N., The cardiac and haemostatic effects of dietary hempseed, “Nutrition and Metabolism”, 7 (32), 2010, pp. 1-9.
• Regulation (EU) 116/2010 of 09-02-2010 amending Regulation EU No.1924/2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council with regard to nutrition claims.
• Regulation (EU) 432/2012 of 16-05-2012 on the compilation of a list of permitted health claims on food, other than those referring to the reduction of disease risk and child development and health.
• Commission Reg. (EU) 536/2013 of June 11, 2013 amending Regulation (EU) 432/2012 on the establishment of a list of permitted
health claims made on foods, other than those referring to the reduction of disease risk and to children’s development and health.
• De Lisio L., Composizione e valori nutrizionali degli alimenti, i metodi di regolamentazione, “Pasta&Pastai”, n. 185, Jen.-Feb. 2022.
• https://fdc.nal.usda.gov, United States Department of Agriculture (Usda), “Food Composition Databases, Food Data Central”.
• Commission Regulation (EU) 2020/500 of 06-04-2020 authorizing the placing on the market of partially defatted chia seed powder as a novel food under Regulation (EU) 2015/2283 of the European Parliament and of the Council amending Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) 2017/2470.
• Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) 2023/2214 of October 23, 2023 amending Implementing Regulation (EU) 2017/2470 as regards the conditions of use and specifications of the novel food partially defatted chia (Salvia hispanica) seed powders.
• Iafelice G., Caboni M.F., Cubadda R., Di Criscio T., Trivisonno M.C., Marconi E., Development of Functional Spaghetti Enriched with Long Chain Omega-3 Fatty Acids, “Cereal Chemistry”, vol. 85 (2), March-April 2008.
• De Lisio L., Cannabis sativa, Pasta e prodotti alimentari contenenti farina di semi di canapa, “Molini d’Italia”, Sept. 2023.
Better than pop corns. Pasta on the big screen
by Andrea Maraschi
Postdoctoral Researcher, Interuniversity
Research Center “Seminary of the History of Science” University of Bari
Lecturer in Anthropology of Food
Department of Agricultural and Food Sciences
University of Bologna
Pasta, a cornerstone of Italian cuisine, has also found a special place on the big screen, becoming a powerful cultural symbol both in Italy and the United States. This seemingly simple food has taken on profound meanings in storytelling, evoking emotions, and representing cultural identities. In Italy, pasta on the big screen is often linked to tradition, family, and homeland. Scenes of Sunday lunches with huge steaming plates of pasta have become iconic, representing warmth and family unity. I’m writing this article on a special day, Ferragosto (the 15th of August). As a déjà-vu, a film like “Pranzo di Ferragosto” (“Ferragosto Lunch”) by Gianni Di Gregorio (2008) comes to mind, one of many movies where the preparation and consumption of
Pasta, conviviality, and narrative
pasta is used as a metaphor for Italian life, interpersonal relationships, and the passage of time. In this small neorealist picture set in Rome, a middle-aged man named Gianni agrees to look after the mother of the building manager Alfonso on Ferragosto. The real protagonists of the film are elderly women, one of whom, Maria - Alfonso’s aunt from the south - is an expert in preparing baked pasta, probably made with penne or rigatoni. With mozzarella, mind you, certainly not béchamel, as would be plausible a little further north. A specific scene is dedicated to the preparation, where the elderly lady explains to the host every secret of the toppings and how to ensure that the “crust” turns out perfect and doesn’t burn. It is a story of life experience and gender, finding its
sublimation in festive days like Ferragosto, where the flavors of the past and traditional cuisine can cheer up a merry gathering assembled for the occasion. Here, the preparation of pasta becomes an act of care and intergenerational connection.
Sauce is a family affair
There are numerous films in which pasta is mentioned, shown, cited, discussed, eaten, loved, or spectacularized. Here I will refer to just a few examples that show how an ordinary dish such as pasta can be employed to tell several different stories. In the first chapter of “The Godfather” (1972) directed by Francis Ford Coppola, which won three Oscars, Michael Corleone’s apprenticeship as the family’s leading man (not a job for everyone) also goes through the
kitchen. In the first part of the film, after his father is attacked and Michael returns as a decorated marine from World War II, Peter Clemenza, Vito Corleone’s trusted man, helps Michael integrate into the criminal family. However, he doesn’t do so by bringing up issues of illicit trades or gang clashes: rather, he teaches him the recipe for pasta sauce. A sauté (sofrito) of oil and garlic, then tomato puree, preserved sausages, meatballs, a dash of red wine, and a sprinkle of sugar.
In Italy pasta on the big screen is often associated with tradition
You never know, says Clemenza, you might need to cook for a crowd someday. A sauce suitable for a dish of spaghetti, though this isn’t specified in the movie.
Al Pacino
Anyway, the preparation of the sauce becomes a metaphor for the transmission of family traditions and power within the mafia. But it also shows how criminal activities are not disconnected from daily and family life, and that the traditions of the homeland, Italy, are fundamental for new ItalianAmerican families.
In “The Godfather” Peter Clemenza shows to Michael the recipe for pasta sauce
Let’s not forget that Italians, just like many other ethnic and cultural minorities, have often been stereotypically associated with their most representative food. They were called “macaroni” - and in doing so, little of Italian identity remained, with no distinction between the Italians themselves
(those from the north often consumed polenta more than anything, but we know how clichés work). Not surprisingly, even today, the idea of “Italians” abroad is based on stereotypes regarding southerners.
The Italian-Americans
Speaking of Italian and American identity at the table, in September 1996, the film “Big Night”, directed by Stanley Tucci and Campbell Scott, was released in U.S. theaters (and a few months later in Italian ones). Set in the 1950s, the film follows the story of two Italian brothers, Primo and Secondo Pilaggi, who emigrated to the United States and run the Paradise restaurant. The restaurant is going through a period of financial difficulty because it seems that American customers do not appreciate Primo’s refined cuisine, which is very attached to uncompromising Italian traditions. Meanwhile, another Italian restaurant, much more commercial, run by the elderly Pascal, is hugely
successful. Pascal, in fact, has decided to give the customer what the customer wants, reducing the complexity of Italian cuisine to a series of stereotypes that American culture projects onto Italy, like the huge bowls of spaghetti with meatballs that contrast with the Paradise’s simple macaroni with
Lady and the Tramp in an iconic scene from the film, redrawn
remind us of the ones in Disney’s “Lady and the Tramp” (1955), set in the United States at the beginning of the 20th century, where the two dogs accidentally share the same spaghetti, ending up kissing when they meet in the middle. In this cultural and commercial clash, the two brothers decide to organize a big night as a last chance to save their business. The elaborate dinner features the “timpano,” an elaborate baked pasta dish with garganelli inside a pasta crust stuffed with boiled eggs, provola or mozzarella, meatballs, and more. The preparation of the timpano represents the craftsmanship and dedication in Italian cooking, symbolizing the passion and pride of the two Italian brothers running a restaurant in the United States. The dish is a declaration of identity and cultural resistance. Just ask Alberto Sordi, whose iconic forkful of “maccaroni” (i.e., spaghetti) in “An American in Rome” (1954) became a symbol of our country, no matter where we come from. Eating pasta makes us feel at home regardless of where we are. Carlo Verdone also shows this in his highly underrated film “I’m Crazy About Iris Blond” (1996). Romeo, who has moved to Brussels for artistic reasons, returns from a concert with his partner Marguerite and immediately starts fiddling with spaghetti and jarred sauce. No way, their relationship is in dire straits, and she punishes him by replacing the pasta with some yogurt: he was too overweight and needed to start a diet. The night ended at McDonald’s for Romeo - secretly, of course. It’s no coincidence that an entire cinematic genre, the Spaghetti Western, bears this name.
And how do Italians see themselves?
Neorealist masterpieces like Vittorio de Sica’s “Bicycle Thieves” (1948) are a privileged mirror
through which we can glimpse the realities of poverty and hunger in post-war Italy. In post-war Rome, Antonio Ricci gets a job as a bill poster, for which it is essential to own a bicycle - which is promptly stolen from him on the first day. The story revolves around his frustrated and desperate attempts to recover it or even steal another one. A pitiless portrayal of a country in dire straits, with miniatures that today seem to depict a time long gone, like a portion of pasta and potatoes in
exchange for attending Mass. A few years later, in 1954, “Misery and Nobility” directed by Mario Mattoli, tells the story of two very poor Neapolitan families involved in a scheme to help a young marquis marry the daughter of a wealthy former cook. One of the most famous scenes is when the protagonists are presented with a huge steaming bowl of spaghetti with tomato sauce, and everyoneand firstly Totò - dives in with their hands, like the Neapolitan “lazzari” or “lazzaroni” that were
The poster for “Bicycle Thieves”
already depicted in the 17th century. A symbol of the struggle against hunger - and not really of Mediterranean Diet - spaghetti with tomato sauce thus becomes the icon of one of the most memorable scenes in Italian cinema. Not to forget other typical dishes of poor cuisine, like pasta and chickpeas from “Big Deal on Madonna Street” (1958): a simple dish, sure, but one that fills the belly. All substance, no fluff. Fast forward thirty years to 1986, and we arrive at the weight-loss clinic in “Seven Kilos in Seven Days”, where Pozzetto and Verdone try every trick in the book to keep their clients away from food (for example, they arrange a “psychological dinner”). One night, however, they too have to prepare something for dinner, namely penne all’arrabbiata. The smell of pasta and especially garlic wakes up all the hungry clients, who show up in the kitchen in
The preparation of the timpano in Big Night represents the craftsmanship in Italian cooking
pajamas and bathrobes and are brusquely chased away. Next time, Verdone suggests, they’d rather make pasta with butter and Parmesan: the smell will be less strong and no one will notice.
And how do others think about pasta?
Among many examples that could be made of what pasta represents abroad, the first that comes to mind is “City Lights” (1931) and its infamous spaghetti scene where Charlot ends up biting into a streamer that has fallen from the ceiling. Of course, each to his own,
and Chaplin often lent himself to comedic scenes like this. Each to his own, like in “Elf”, a 2003 American comedy in which Buddy, a human raised by Santa Claus’s elves, discovers his origins and ends up topping a plate of spaghetti with candies, marshmallows, chocolate syrup, and more. After all, Buddy grew up at the North Pole, far from human habits, and among the elves, the diet consists almost exclusively of sweets and sugars, according to the film. The dish of “macaroni” and cheese (which are most likely cellentani) microwaved by Kevin in “Home Alone” (1990) is similarly a symbol of his culture, as well as of his own - albeit temporary - independence. In fact, to complete the meal, Kevin places a wine glass filled with... milk on the table. But I believe the most iconic use of pasta on the big screen in recent years is feeatured in “Eat Pray Love” (2010), a film where the protagonist Elizabeth Gilbert (Julia Roberts) embarks on a journey of self-(re)discovery in Italy, India, and Bali. She seeks the true pleasures of life - the simple ones -, spiritual peace, and true love. The first stop coincides, of course, with the genuine taste of Italian food, symbolized by a memorable scene: sitting at a Roman trattoria, Elizabeth watches a young couple across the street sharing a long kiss and exchanging warm embraces, when a plate of spaghetti with tomato sauce is placed in front of her. Simple as that. Now, she can experience her own personal love affair. She twirls the pasta and eats it with all the sensuality and passion she has seen in that kiss, because that dish represents the beginning of a journey to rediscover the pleasure of living, far from the stress of modern life. A time machine to rediscover the value of genuine things - a luxury that we can enjoy every day in Italy.
Andrea Maraschi
2024 - A complex, yet rewarding year for pasta
by Luigi Pelliccia Head of the Research, Market and Press Office Department of Federalimentare
After the fluctuations over the past few years, in 2024 the production of the pasta sector has regained a solid expansion trend. Let us look back for a moment at the fluctuations in this sector in recent years. Production reached an extraordinary +8.5% in 2020, when consumers “held on” to pasta at the peak of the pandemic, while the food industry as a whole closed the year with a -2.5% drop in production. This was followed by a huge step back in 2021 (-9.0%), then a new upturn in 2022 (+3.0%) and a equivalent downturn in 2023 (-3.7%). Now, the first five months of 2024 show a production boost in the pasta sector of +4.1% over January-May 2024. This is an impressive delta, well above the
The expansion trend from exports is the secret
+1.2% reached by the Italian industry as a whole at the same time. In short, the sector seems to have come out of the fluctuating trend mentioned earlier. The secret? The expansion trend coming from exports. And it can only come from there, when the domestic market is disappointing and static.
The sector’s figures
Let us look at the figures. In the first four months of the year, pasta exports reached 1 billion 444 million in currency, +6.7% over the same period in 2023. More importantly, in terms of quantity, pasta exports reached 851 thousand tonnes, with an almost double growth of +12.1%. Actually, exports of the aggregate food industry grew in
currency more than pasta, with a +10.4% quarterly increase, but in quantity exports stopped at +6.9%.
From the comparison between the delta in currency and quantity of pasta exports, it is pretty clear that the product unit price across the border fell compared to the previous year, thanks to the downturn of cereal prices. And this has certainly contributed to strengthening the sector’s leadership in the global market. It is no coincidence that 2023 pasta exports accounted for 56.3% of the sector’s turnover, which is more than double than 26.9% reached last year by the overall export of national “food and beverage” on its aggregate turnover.
Source: Federalimentare processing of Istat data
Market outlets
It is also interesting to see that the two leading markets, Germany and the United States, strengthened their positions in the first four months, with trend increases of +11.7% and +13.3% respectively. While two very important markets in the Far East, like Japan and Korea, were not far behind, with increases of +17.1% and +20.6% respectively.
In short, the development path of a flagship and mature product like Italian pasta is linked, once again and more than ever, to the export boost, in a stagnant market. In this regard, suffice it to say that summing up all the drops in food sales in volume over the last two and a half years (from the beginning of 2002 to June 2024), the result is a 9.6% cumulative cut. And that is not all. In fact, food sales look even worse than “non-food” sales in quantity, which show a cut of 2.7 points over the same time span. In a nutshell, it seems as if “food and beverages” were the Italians’ main source of savings.
Germany and the US have strengthened their position
The Italian food market downturn continues It should also be underlined that the Italian food market downturn did not stop and also affected the first half of 2024. In fact, in this
FOOD ECONOMY
Source: Processing on Istat data
period the Italian food market showed a further decrease in food sales in quantity of -1.4% compared to January- June 2023. Yet, household purchasing power has improved in recent months. Probably, the reason is the increase in tax collection and,
above all, the restart of the saving trend, facilitated by an international scenario that is far from generating stability and certainty. In any case, it is clear that such a downturn of the
than ever
for pasta, but for the entire food sector, in order to counter such a gloomy and deep-rooted market trend. The risk is that this trend may slow down in the long run even the characteristic push for added value and products of excellence, with the related, important repercussions in terms of prestige and profit margins. In any case, the current picture confirms a significant change in the domestic scenario, frankly unpredictable until a few years ago. This is the scenario and the complex structural profiles we will have to face.
Luigi Pelliccia
The Italian food market downturn continues
Professional PASTA
SUBSCRIPTION
Bühler opens application center for local grains in Nigeria together with Flour Mills of Nigeria
Bühler, in collaboration with Flour Mills of Nigeria Plc, has opened a grains application center in Nigeria dedicated to processing local and ancient grains. This sustainable and transformative commitment was made based on the need to address food insecurity, not just in Nigeria, but progressively across the African continent. Today around 2.3 billion people in the world live in food insecure conditions, according to the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) of the United Nations. With their specific advantages, local grains such as sorghum and millet can play a vital
The main goal of the Grain Processing Innovation Center is to bring the industrial processing of local grains and crops to the next level and thereby contribute to affordable nutrition
To address food security challenges, Bühler is opening a dedicated Application & Training Center with research and development capabilities in Kano, Nigeria
role in improving food security, particularly in Africa. Use of these raw materials is at a low level today, and processing is not developed. To address this challenge, Bühler is opening a dedicated Application & Training Center with research and development capabilities in Kano, Nigeria, together with its founding partner, Flour Mills of Nigeria (FMN), and its collaborating partners, such as Olam Agri.
The main goal is to bring industrial processing of these grains to the next level and thereby contribute to affordable nutrition. “Sustainable food value chains utilizing local grains are the number one priority to develop Africa,” says Johannes Wick, CEO of Bühler’s Grains & Food segment.
“In addition to improving the food value chain, we see great business opportunities with a new category of processed food,” says John Coumantaros, Chairman of the Board of Flour Mills of Nigeria.
The GPIC will empower customers, researchers, and partners to collaboratively explore cost-efficient food processing solutions for local grains such as sorghum, millet, maize, soybeans, and other local crops such as cassava, different types of beans, nuts, and seeds
Commenting on the foreseeable impact of the Application & Training Center, Coumantaros stated: “FMN has always been at the forefront of driving food self-sufficiency in Nigeria and progressively across the continent. The application center is well positioned to sustainably
develop local grains, create business opportunities, and provide viable alternatives to some imported raw materials used in production. Therefore, this partnership further demonstrates our consistency in developing local content and in our commitment to feeding and
The production facility includes all steps of processing, from cleaning and sorting to dehulling, tempering, and milling
enriching lives, every day.”
Local grains and crops offer many benefits and are therefore a key tool in improving food security. They have high nutrient density with valuable vitamins, minerals,
proteins, and fats, are climate tolerant and able to withstand high temperatures and arid conditions, and require less fertilizer and pesticide than other grains. “With these characteristics local grains are
ideal plants to be cultivated in Africa, specifically under the conditions of accelerating climate change,” says Ali Hmayed, Head of Bühler’s new Grain Processing Innovation Center (GPIC) in Kano. The main reasons these local grains and crops have not yet been integrated into industrial solutions are complex, ranging from low farming volumes and short shelf life to a lack of process knowledge and equipment. Together with its partners, Bühler is now taking a major step to break through this blockage and is open to further collaborations.
The GPIC is a three-floor building spanning an area of 480 square meters, housing pilot-scale production facilities, research and development labs, and classrooms. The production facility includes all steps of processing, from cleaning and sorting to dehulling, tempering, and milling. The heart of the plant is Bühler`s high-compression AlPesa grinding system. The GPIC will empower customers, researchers, and partners to collaboratively explore cost efficient food processing solutions for local grains such as sorghum, millet, maize,
The GPIC is a three-floor building spanning an area of 480 square meters, housing pilot-scale production facilities, research and development labs, and classrooms
Johannes Wick, CEO of Bühler’s Grains & Food segment
soybeans, and other local crops such as cassava, different types of beans, nuts, and seeds.
In close collaboration with the Bühler African Milling School in Nairobi, Kenya, the GPIC also offers training and education courses on local grains and their advantages and requirements in cultivation and processing. Additionally, this new Application & Training Center will enable Bühler to optimize its processing portfolio for local grains in terms of both performance and cost efficiency. The GPIC is embedded in Bühler’s global network of 25 Application & Training Centers. The first series of trials with customers has already been agreed upon.
Strengthening food security and economy
One key reason for the challenging food situations in Africa is that many regions of the continent are strong importers of grains, mainly wheat and rice. This makes them
vulnerable to trade disruptions and foreign exchange rate fluctuations.
“Local grains offer many opportunities, not only to increase food security but also to generate new jobs in agriculture and adjacent markets, as well as enabling countries to become more independent from imports,” states Ali Hmayed.
The transformation of the food supply chain in Africa will not happen overnight. “This requires concerted efforts across numerous sectors, including agriculture, processing, recipe development, end-product innovation, and consumer engagement,” says John Coumantaros from FMN.
“Together with our partners, we at Bühler are happy to now contribute to this system change with the aim of ensuring that more people in Africa have access to affordable and healthy food, thereby reducing hunger and malnutrition,” says Bühler’s Johannes Wick.
Ali Hmayed, Head of Bühler’s new Grain Processing Innovation Center
John Coumantaros, Chairman of the Board of Flour Mills of Nigeria
AXOR has completed new modernization project
A pasta production company operating in Holland
has partnered with AXOR for their modernization projects
AXOR, offering pasta production technologies with over 170 reference projects worldwide, has recently completed another significant modernization project in Holland. As part of the project, a continuous semi-automatic dryer was integrated into the long-cut pasta production line. The Dutch pasta producer was looking to reduce drying time and energy consumption for their long-cut pasta production line.
After conducting thorough research to find the most efficient solution from pasta processing technology companies, they decided to work with AXOR. Company authorities stated that the solution provided by AXOR met all their drying process needs. Initially, AXOR’s R&D team conducted detailed research on the raw materials of pasta to ensure maximum efficiency and quality in the drying process. The engineering team then designed
a Continuous Semi-Automatic Dryer for the producer’s long-cut pasta line and successfully integrated it. The provided dryer utilizes the latest technology, allowing for homogeneous drying of the product. AXOR emphasizes the importance of precision in every step of the pasta production process to maintain quality. They are dedicated to improving the overall quality of pasta production and ensuring the success of their partners.
Western Macaroni Manufacturing Company
Western Macaroni Manufacturing Company started in 1903 in Salt Lake City, Utah.1, 2 It was born from earlier ventures of Antonio Ferro, who started his first pasta factory in 1896.3 By 1905, the company made 22 different shapes of “sun-dried” macaroni, spaghetti, vermicelli and egg noodles under the Red Tiger Brand and it was located on 242 South 4th Street West.4 On July 11, 1906 the company incorporated with Gaetano Borelli as president, Nicola Del Duca as vice president, Antonio Ferro as secretary and general manager and Erminio De Rocca as treasurer.5
Early in the firm’s existence, they advertised in Italian that their pasta was equal to the best Italy had to offer. One such ad in 1908 directed to Italian-Americans claimed Western Macaroni pasta was produced by highly skilled tradesmen using Semolina from “accredited” mills in Kansas and Minnesota.6 They clearly understood the importance of using good raw materials for making high quality pasta to attract customers, particularly discerning Italian-Americans.
The company grew rapidly. However, in the late 1910s, a fire destroyed much of the factory.7 It was rebuilt and expanded with new equipment.8 During World War I, the company doubled its capacity due to an increase in demand from a shortage of imports from Europe.9 By this time, they made 45 varieties under the Queen’s Taste brand and the company claimed to be
the largest pasta factory west of Chicago, with 30 employees, servicing the intermountain and coast region, including cities such as Boise, Butte, Great Falls, Los Angeles, Missoula, Portland and San Francisco.10 They also exported to parts of Canada.11 By the early 1920s, Western Macaroni became a market leader of pasta in the western United States, elevating the company to one of great
importance for Utah, especially in light of its significant out of state shipments.12
A 1922 article in the Salt Lake Telegram touted the state-of-theart pasta making process at Western Macaroni.13 The company used “scientific” methods for production, including the use of hydrometers to determine when the pasta was dried to specification.14
Presses in operation at Western Macaroni (used by permission, Utah Historical Society)
The multistory factory was laid out with manufacturing on the basement floor, offices and shipping on the second floor, drying on the third and fourth floors and raw material storage on the fifth floor.15 Finished pasta was placed in boxes lined with paper and sealed to protect against dust.16 The company could make 6-tons (5,440 kilograms) per day.17
The company was innovative and developed products in response to developing trends. In 1922, the company recognized pasta was becoming popular in the United States beyond just with ItalianAmericans because these products were heathy, economical and versatile, offering many opportunities for nutritious, inexpensive and interesting meals.18 This led to the company making a wide variety of products, including “novelty” shapes, for use in cream
sauces, soups, macaroni salads and desserts, such as custard pudding.19 They even made a “fancy macaroni” with a grooved surface to add some zing to the presentation.20
The company dissolved in 1942 after the retirement of Antonio Ferro, who was one of the founding members and served as the president.21 22 Ferro was born in Sersale, Italy in 1872, immigrated to the United States in 1894 and by the time he retired from Western Macaroni, he became known as the “pasta king”, a fitting title for a man who poured his heart into making Queen’s Taste pasta.23
Note: the factory building was listed on the United States Register of Historic Places in 2015.
Leonard J. DeFrancisci
National Pasta Association History Committee Pasta Institute of Technology
Notes
1 ”Ex-Macaroni Manufacturer Dies at Salt Lake Hospital”, The Salt Lake Telegram, Salt Lake City, Utah, volume XLIII, number 182 (August 29, 1944), page 18.
2 ”Active Utahn Dies After Long Illness”, The Salt Lake Tribune, Salt Lake City, Utah, volume 149, number 138 (August 30, 1944), page 11.
3 Twila Van Leer, “Pasta King Ruled Over Utah Empire”, Deseret News (August 13, 1996), https://www.deseret.com/1996/8/13/19259847/pastaking-ruled-over-utah-empire/.
4 ”Sun-Dried Macaroni, Spaghetti, Vermicelli and Egg Noodles” advertisement, The Salt Lake Tribune, volume LXXI, number 170 (October 1, 1905), part one, page 11.
5 ”Will Make Macaroni”, The Salt Lake Tribune, volume LXXIII, number 89 (July 12, 1906), page 12.
6 ”Western Macaroni Manufacturing Co.” advertisement, Il Minatore, Salt Lake City, Utah, volume I, number 42 (October 24, 1908), page 4.
7 W. J. O’Conner, editor, “Local Factory Leader in West”, The Salt Lake Telegram, volume XXI, number 62 (April 1, 1922), second section, page 6.
8 Ibid.
9 ”Queen’s Taste Products Shipped to Cities of Coast in Carload Lots”, The Salt Lake Telegram, volume XV, number 330 (December 24, 1916), page 5.
10 Ibid.
11 ”Home of the Western Macaroni Company Where ‘Queen’s Taste’ Products Are Made”, The Salt Lake Telegram, volume XXI, number 259 (October 15, 1922), page 8.
12 W. J. O’Conner, “Local Factory Leader in West”.
13 ”Home of the Western Macaroni Company Where ‘Queen’s Taste’ Products Are Made”.
14 Ibid.
15. Ibid.
16 Ibid.
17 Miriam B. Murphy, “The Pasta King of the Mountain West”, History To Go, An offcial website of the state of Utah (May 1996), https://historytogo.utah.gov/pasta-king/.
18 W.J. O'Conner, “Local Factory Leader in the West”.
19 Ibid.
20 Ibid.
21 ”Ex-Macaroni Manufacturer Dies at Salt Lake Hospital”.
22 ”Active Utahn Dies After Long Illness”.
23 Miriam B. Murphy, “The Pasta King of the Mountain West”.
Western Macaroni, 244 South 500 West, circa 1915, (digitized by Leonard J. DeFrancisci)
