Underhood Service, October 2012 by Babcox Media

■ Nuts and Bolts of Restoration ■ Solving Head Gasket Failures ■ Customer One-Liners

MAGAZINE

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Publication

CONTENTS 30

Memory Lane The Nuts and Bolts of Restoration In his second part of a two-part feature, Gary Goms highlights the mechanical challenges of restoring his father’s Chevrolet truck. The truck had been in Gary’s family since his father purchased it new back in 1955.

Editor Edward Sunkin, ext. 258 email: esunkin@babcox.com Managing Editor Jennifer Clements, ext. 265 email: jclements@babcox.com

Tech Feature

Imported Service

Remember the Tritons Over the years, there have been numerous variants, changes and improvements in the Ford 4.6L V8.engine. Tech editor Larry Carley discusses service issues that are common on this engine and highlights its maintenance needs.

Solving Subaru Sealing Problems Shop owner John Volz shares his experiences and tips on Subaru head gasket service. While there are various theories why Subaru engines had sealing issues, John provides a step-by-step head gasket service procedure that has become common at his shop.

Technical Editor Larry Carley Contributing Writers Gary Goms, Scott “Gonzo” Weaver, Larry Bailly, Bob Dowie and Randy Rundle

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Volume XVII, No. 10

Graphic Designer Dan Brennan, ext. 283 email: dbrennan@babcox.com

Advertising Director Cindy Ott, ext. 209 email: cott@babcox.com

Publisher Jim Merle, ext. 280 email: jmerle@babcox.com

Circulation Manager Pat Robinson, ext. 276 email: probinson@babcox.com

Circulation Assistant Kim Hedgepeth, ext. 260 email: khedgepeth@babcox.com

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DEPARTMENTS

Columns Publication

06 Directions

ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES

08 Gonzo’s Toolbox

HOME OFFICE 3550 Embassy Parkway Akron, Ohio 44333-8318 330-670-1234 FAX 330-670-0874 www.babcox.com

14 Aftermarket Update

PRESIDENT Bill Babcox bbabcox@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 217

42 Component Connection

42 44 Tech Talk

VICE PRESIDENT Jeff Stankard jstankard@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 282 Sales Representatives: Bobbie Adams badams@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 238

62 Tech Tips

74 Products

Sean Donohue sdonohue@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 206 Dean Martin dmartin@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 225

75 Classifieds

Glenn Warner gwarner@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 212

80 Publisher’s Perspective EDIToRIAl ADVISoRy BoARD Brent Crago, owner Top Tech Automotive Cleveland, Tennessee

Anthony Hurst, owner Auto Diagnostics Ephrata, Pennsylvania

Tom Palermo, general manager Preferred Automotive Specialists Jenkintown, Pennsylvania

Paul Stock, owner Stock’s Underhood Specialists Belleville, Illinois

Albert Duebber, owner Duebber’s Auto Service Cincinnati, Ohio

Roger Kwapich, owner Smitty’s Automotive Toledo, Ohio

Van Pedigo, owner Richfield Automotive Center Richfield, Ohio

Michael Warner, owner Suburban Wrench Pennington, New Jersey

Marvin Greenlee, owner Meade & Greenlee Inc. Salem, Oregon

Rick O’Brien, technician Coachworks Portland, Maine

John Zick jzick@babcox.com 949-756-8835 List Sales Manager Don Hemming dhemming@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 286 Classified Sales Tom Staab tstaab@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 224

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UNDERHOOD SERVICE (ISSN 1079-6177) (October 2012, Volume XVII, Number 10): Published monthly by Babcox, 3550 Embassy Parkway, Akron, OH 44333 U.S.A. Phone (330) 670-1234, FAX (330) 670-0874. Periodical postage paid at Akron, OH 44333 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to UNDERHOOD SERVICE, 3550 Embassy Parkway Akron, OH 44333. UNDERHOOD SERVICE is a trademark of Babcox Media, Inc. registered with the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office. All rights reserved. A limited number of complimentary subscriptions are available to individuals who meet the qualification requirements. Call (330) 670-1234, Ext. 260, to speak to a subscription services representative or FAX us at (330) 670-5335. Paid Subscriptions are available for non-qualified subscribers at the following rates: U.S.: $69 for one year. Canada: $89 for one year. Canadian rates include GST. Ohio residents add current county sales tax. Other foreign rates/via air mail: $129 for one year. Payable in advance in U.S. funds. Mail payment to UNDERHOOD SERVICE, P.O. Box 75692, Cleveland, OH 44101-4755. VISA, MasterCard or American Express accepted.

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» Directions

By Ed Sunkin | EDITOR

Autonomous Autos

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Photo credit: Steve Jurvetson

service these vehicle systems. Bob Lutz, former GM vice chairman and idea man behind the Chevy Volt, said recently that he expects mass-produced driverless vehicles on the roads within 20 years and that the technology to operate such vehicles is already available. Lutz cited “smart systems” like start-stop technology, lane departure warning systems, adaptive cruise control and GPS guidance — designs currently used in some of today’s high-end vehicles — will be combined by engineers to produce the hands-free cars. Together, these advancements are designed to keep the vehicle in its lane and at a safe distance from the car in front of it. The car will also apply the brakes to avoid a collision, even when a car driving 30 miles slower suddenly pulls in front of it.

“Self-driving cars do not run red lights.” “I expect that self-driving cars are going to be far safer than human-driven cars,” said Google co-founder Sergey Brin. “Selfdriving cars do not run red lights.” There is a lot of speculation on how these driverless vehicles will impact the service industry. For one thing, it’s going to take technicians even more skilled in computers and electronics to

Google reported that its experimental autonomous Prius has driven more than 300,000 miles without an accident.

October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

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he auto industry won’t be producing vehicles in the near future that encompass the options of the flying “Spinner” cars portrayed in 1982’s Blade Runner, however, the reality is that we will soon be seeing something more like the “Johnny Cabs” that hailed from the 1990’s film Total Recall. In March of this year, the Nevada Department of Motor Vehicles issued a license for a self-driven car, and in late September, California’s Gov. Jerry Brown, at a ceremony at Google’s headquarters in Mountain View, signed into law a bill that his state’s Department of Motor Vehicles is to write regulations covering robot cars by January 2015. The law also allows autonomous vehicles to operate on California roads.

Lutz thinks this is a great idea, since “cars don’t smoke pot or drink,” and thereby the nation will see a reduction in driverimpaired accidents. The vehicles could be bad news for collision shops, as fewer accidents transforms into less work for collision shops. Insurance costs also could decline. While the expected safety improvements are beneficial, the aftermarket may see more miles per vehicle increase, as the technology will allow more people such as the elderly and those who do not like to drive in traffic the opportunity for more travel. Vehicles also could be programmed to arrive at your shop for service or maintenance even without a passenger. Let’s just hope the “smart car” doesn’t forget the credit card to pay for the work. ■

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» Gonzo’s Toolbox By Scott “Gonzo” Weaver

Dealing With Wacky One-Liners From Your Customers

id you ever notice some people have an excuse for just about anything? Did you also notice how some people have a quirky explanation for the problems with their cars? I sometimes wonder what some of these folks would think if they actually heard themselves from my side of the counter. I’ve heard it all (or, at least I think I have.)…nothing surprises me any more. So, I thought I would jot down some of the wacky problem descriptions and customer requests I’ve heard over the years. For those who work on my side of the repair counter, see how many of these you’ve heard before.

HERE ARE A FEW OF MY ALL-TIME FAVORITES: “It’s not intermittent; I know it does it sometimes.” “I drive my car a lot, and it does this every day; last time it was a month ago.” “My car is going to blow up…I heard it ticking.”

“I don’t want this car to last forever. I just want it to last long enough until I can afford one that will.” “The tail lights went out on my car.” – “When did you notice they were out?” “At night.”

“Every time I shut my car off, it won’t start.” “My valve stems won’t stay aligned.” “My brother used to be a mechanic, so he knows everything.”

Two weeks after a customer has called, he arrives at the shop and tells you, “I’m the guy who called yesterday.” “I’m not in a hurry for it.” (A sign they’ll be calling in less than a half hour to check on it.)

“I lost my voltage in the car.” (Well, go find it!) “I’ve got a shortage in my car.” (What are you short of?) “I can’t afford the repair, so just fix what’s broken.”

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“I need to pick it up today.” (Closing time comes along, and they are nowhere to be found.) “I don’t care what it costs, just fix it.” (Sure you do!)

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» Gonzo’s Toolbox “My car is having issues.” “I’ll have to wait on it, even if it takes you all night to fix it.” “All you mechanics are alike!” (I have a twin?) “I should have learned to fix cars, so I could tell you what’s wrong with it.” “You’ll have to work around my dog, he stays in the car.” “I already know what’s wrong with it; I don’t need you to tell me what’s wrong.” – “So what’s wrong with it?” “I don’t know; I sued the last mechanic who worked on my car.” “I want to speak to the mechanic who worked on the car. (Oh you do?) Then I want to speak to your boss. Oh, you’re the boss, well then I want to speak to the owner. Oh, you’re the owner, then I want to speak to someone in charge.”

“I saw smoke coming out of my vents, so I poured water down them. Now when I turn on the blower motor it gurgles in the car. Did I do that?” “Here are the keys. It’s the blue one sitting out front.” (There is only one car out front… and it’s blue.) Never a dull moment at the repair shop, that’s for sure. Oh, there are more wacky comments that I could add, but I think I’d run out of room to write them down. I’d like to think each and every one of us at some point in time said something stupid to a service person. I know I have, and I’m sure with my wacky sense of humor they’d be talking about it for a long, long time. You just have to laugh at the comments after a while. You can’t take it too seriously, or you’ll just drive yourself crazy. Next time you get somebody at the counter and he or she wants you to take a guess at a repair rather than actually diagnose it…tell him or her what I say. “Sure, I’ll take a SWAG at it.” And when they ask, “What’s a SWAG?” you can tell them: “Scientific Wild $%# Guess.” ■

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» Aftermarket Update

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How Automotive Technology Changes How We’re Training By Gary Goms

While crystal ball gazing is generally out of my field of expertise, most of us should nevertheless be taking a look into the future to understand how new technologies will affect the repair and parts distribution sectors of our industry. Sad to say, most veteran shop owners respond to the challenges of new technologies with, “We’ll master new technologies the same way we mastered alternators, disc brakes and electronic ignition.”

Ford Focus Electric

mon to hybrid vehicles because the idea is to avoid wasting gasoline and increasing exhaust emissions by allowing the engine to idle at stoplights. The GM system is basically a generator/starter assembly that’s connected to the engine crankshaft by a heavy drive belt. A large battery resides in the trunk area of the vehicle, which allows the engine to

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“We’ll master new technologies the same way we mastered alternators, disc brakes and electronic ignition.”

Statements like this are more wishful thinking than well-reasoned outcome because earlier technologies were usually incremental improvements on old designs rather than the groundup designs we’re seeing today.

Incremental Designs As for incremental improvements on an existing design, General Motors has introduced its new version of stop-start technology, which basically consists of a conventional engine and powertrain in which the engine is designed to shut off when the vehicle is at rest. This feature is com-

be silently started when the accelerator is applied. Similarly, we’re looking at clean diesel technology being introduced into modern passenger vehicles. Diesel-powered vehicles are old hat in Europe because fuel efficiency is an absolute requirement for taxicabs and other commercial passenger vehicles. Clean diesel technology applies the full range of modern engine control electronics to create diesel engines that not only perform as well as gasoline engines, but that also deliver much better fuel economy. Because conventional mechanical fuel systems

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Babcox Memorial and AVI Education Scholarship Recipients Announced The Automotive Management Institute (AMI), in conjunction with Babcox Media, recently announced Peter Rudloff, owner, Pete’s Garage, Peter Rudloff Inc., Newark, DE, as the recipient of the Tom B. Babcox Memorial Scholarship. The scholarship recognizes a management-oriented member of the Automotive Service Association (ASA) Mechanical Division. The recipient receives $1,000 to be applied toward expenses to attend educational sessions and view the latest repair technologies and equipment during the Congress of Automotive Repair and Service (CARS), Oct. 10-13 in New Orleans. AMI, in conjunction with Automotive Video, Inc. (AVI), also announced Charlene Parlett Charlene Parlett and Edward Roth as the recipients of AVI Education Scholarships. Edward Roth The scholarships recognize automotive service professionals who have a strong desire to improve their management and technical skills through education. Parlett receives $1,000 to attend CARS, while Roth receives $1,000 to be applied toward expenses to attend seminars offered during the AVI Training Conference in Las Vegas, Oct. 29–30. For more information, visit http://bit.ly/RQFPmF.

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» Aftermarket Update have been replaced by a computer chip, service-ready training is required.

Identifix Direct-Hit Subscriber Base Jumps by 40% in Last Two Years Identifix, Inc. recently announced three significant milestones for the company’s award-winning online tool, Direct-Hit. Direct-Hit has exceeded 35,000 subscribers, with the number of vehicle look-ups reaching 15 million per year. These numbers are up from 25,000 subscribers with 12 million look-ups in 2010. In addition, Identifix reports that the number of Hotline Archives has reached 525,000, which represents a 25,000 increase over the past six months alone. http://bit.ly/UlrhY5

Ground-Up Designs I think it’s obvious that federal energy and environmental policy is the driving force behind more ground-up research by auto manufacturers. Our most recent domestic ground-up design is the Chevrolet Volt, which is essentially an electric car with its own onboard gasoline-powered generator. The Volt is slowly gaining acceptance, much like the early Toyota and Honda hybrid cars did years ago. Despite the many criticisms of this new technology, Chevrolet had to build the Volt and get it into the marketplace to gain the manufacturing experience and consumer feedback needed to develop future generations of “green” vehicles. General Motors gained volumes of real-world experience during the early 1990s when it leased its then-new EV-1 electric cars to a select group of consumers in

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California and Arizona. When the EV-1 was eventually pulled off the market, this enthusiastic group of customers actually tried to buy these cars back. Since it cost GM about $80,000 to manufacture an EV-1 at that time, price was an issue. The lack of service infrastructure and the projected lack of market share needed to support the EV-1 also prompted General Motors to scrap the EV-1 project. The data gained from the EV-1 experiment nevertheless supplied the foundation for the current Chevrolet Volt. Most domestic and import auto manufacturers are now offering their own versions of electric and hybrid vehicles. Given the universal appeal of “green” transportation, many manufacturers have extended hybrid power into their high-end vehicle lines.

The Modern Service Bay All of this technology is based upon computers and electronic modules controlling vehicle functions. Advancing battery technology and power control strategies are also improving performance and longevity of battery-powered vehicles. In most cases, a factory scan tool and database is required for any major diagnosis or repair. Because keeping up with modern vehicle technology can, in the most literal sense, become a full-time job, I think more modern technicians will find themselves specializing in specific services or manufacturers. When we speak of tooling in the modern independent repair shop, we’re speaking of more than just buying the latest “special” wrench. For example, today’s extended service interval vehicles often require a scan tool to check

» Aftermarket Update

GM’s start-stop technology, called eAssist, turns the engine off when the vehicle is at rest and helps reduce the gas engine’s work during acceleration or on inclines.

various fluid levels in the vehicle. And, while the technician is checking fluid levels, he also might be checking the general health of the vehicle itself. If he’s using an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) scan tool or an aftermarket J-2534 reprogrammer, he might also install the latest calibrations in the powertrain control module (PCM) to correct issues covered in the latest technical service bulletins (TSBs). When he

repairs the vehicle, he has the option of using the OEM database to access OEM repair procedures. I think it’s also fair to say that the modern independent shop will develop more specialized service bays and have a wireless computer terminal in each bay. The wireless computer terminal allows instant access to various databases and allows technicians to reprogram vehicle control modules

without moving the vehicle to another service bay. Another tooling issue we’re facing in the modern independent shop is that many of the OEM diagnostic procedures are designed for use with the OEM scan tool. I recently experienced this when diagnosing a seat warmer on a modern selfadjusting seat. The seat was also equipped with a sensor that adjusted the cushioning effect of the air bag by estimating the occupant’s weight. In short, the aftermarket scan tool simply didn’t have the ability to “read” the seat control module, which rendered the OEM diagnostic data useless. In view of the above, I think it’s apparent that small shops simply can’t afford the tooling required for the dozen or more auto manufacturers participating in our domestic market. Most shop owners should therefore move away from the old-school general repair shop model into a more modern vehicle or service-specific model. As for the future of the

Federated Winners Have ‘Dream Weekend’ Thunder, lightning and some heavy rain couldn’t keep the winners of the Federated “Dream Weekend” from having a great time. The five Federated service provider customers who attended the Federated “Dream Weekend” in August in St. Louise were: Dave Christopher — Christopher’s Car Care, Tallmadge, OH; Howard Fulton — Cassel’s Garage, Melbourne, FL; Brad Heimbach — Brad’s Motor Market Place, Lafayette, IN; Rodney Gisler — Performance Plus, Three Rivers, TX; and Troy Stariha — Kalama Auto Supply & Repair, Kalama, WA. http://bit.ly/OJunCN UnderhoodService.com 17

» Aftermarket Update “general” repair shop model, any independent can become a general repair facility, provided it has enough service bays, technicians and market support to do so.

Service-Ready Training One of the major changes in the independent service market will be the need for “service-ready” training when dealing with the new groundup vehicle designs containing a highvoltage battery. In the past, the independent service market trained after the technology had passed out of warranty into the independent market. Much of that learning curve was based on trial-and-error experimentation and upon bits and pieces of training and information. Today, it’s nearly impossible to diagnose and repair modern vehicles until the technician has a formal understanding of how the various systems work. How does the independent aftermarket approach service-ready

training? First, we generally can’t service new technology until it’s passed out of its warranty period, so we do have the luxury of providing most of our training slightly after, instead of before, the new technology has appeared. But, in another sense of the word, technicians need vehicle-specific training before they attempt to service the many new platforms coming into the general market. We do have a network of private trainers specializing in specific systems like hybrid vehicles or modern diesel injection systems and who offer classes that can vary from between three hours to three days in length. It’s a tough market because the time required to research, develop and “de-bug” the material can be months and sometimes years. One thing is for certain, the need for service-ready training will become readily apparent as vehicle operating systems become more complex. ■

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GUESS THE CAR! WIN $50! #8

What vehicle MAKE does the picture on the left represent? Submit your guess with our online contest form by visiting www.UnderhoodService.com/guessthecar or scan the QR code to the right with your smart phone. The winner will be randomly selected from correct entries and awarded $50. Entries must be received by November 1, 2012.

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Solved by: Darren Sibole, manager, Team Hutchen’s, Waynesboro, VA

CONGRATULATIONS Darren! Employees of Babcox Media, industry manufacturers and Underhood Service advertisers are not eligible to enter.

18 October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

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» Memory Lane

1955 CHEVY RESTORATION

Nuts, Bolts and Screws

By Gary Goms

n the August issue of Underhood Service, I detailed the work that went into rebuilding the body for my dad’s 1955 Chevy 3100 pickup truck. This month, I’ll talk about the mechanical challenges of restoring a truck that I began maintaining when I went to work in a gas station in 1957. Because my Dad bought the truck new, I recall in detail how the truck looked and drove during the late 1950s. This first-series 1955 Chevrolet 3100 truck represents the end of an era in which a pickup truck was built strictly as a utility vehicle. A few months after this truck was built, Chevrolet entered a new marketing era by introducing the second-series 3100 with a standard 12-volt electrical system and an optional V8 engine, automatic transmission and stylized Cameo appearance package.

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Stages of Restoration

Before we get too deeply involved with repairing the technology of that era, let’s discuss the three basic stages of restoration: refurbishing, frame-up and concours. Most “restorations” are simply a variation of the refurbishing process since most mechanical and cosmetic repairs are done with the body installed on the frame. The second stage is a body-off, frame-up restoration. Because we converted Dad’s truck to a V8 in 1968, it wasn’t completely original. So, even with converting back to a six-cylinder engine, my plan was to keep the truck as original as possible while updating its performance with modern accessories. Any frame-up restoration includes removing layers of hardened grease, dirt and rust by patiently hand-scraping, steam-cleaning and sand-blasting the various parts. Similarly, most

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» Memory Lane of the major parts, such as the engine and drivetrain are rebuilt to the original specifications and reinstalled. In most restorations of average vehicles like a pickup truck, it’s not too important to be historically correct in all aspects of the restoration. The third stage would be a vehicle that’s restored to showroom condition, which is generally called a “concours” restoration. Concours restorations are extremely expensive and are generally performed by shops specializing in that work. In these cases, the technicians must be experts in the original configuration of the vehicle and know where to find the original parts needed to achieve that goal. Most post-World War II vehicles restored to concours condition are relatively low-production models worth a six-figure price. In my book, it’s always best to restore the vehicle as closely to its original condition as closely possible simply because vehicles in original condition are relatively rare and because they have higher market value. To keep my truck as original as possible, I bought a copy of the vehicle’s shop manual on DVD and the assembly line manuals for the body and chassis on paper. Paper manuals are also available for the wiring and electrical and for the bed. These are inexpensive and are essential for accurately restoring the vehicle. Chassis Restoration

As mentioned above, the frame and running gear was painstakingly cleaned and painted with a semi-gloss black that is easily touched up and less likely to

1955 CHEVY RESTORATION

show surface defects. Years earlier, I had rebuilt the front and rear axle and replaced all of the spring shackle bushings. The rivets holding the front spring shackles and running board braces to the frame had loosened and, in an earlier repair, had been tack-welded to the frame. This isn’t a procedure I would normally use, but one with which I had to live.

For safety’s sake, the ’55 Chevy got all new brakes, drums, cylinders, lines, hoses and hardware.

When rebuilding the chassis, it’s best to replace all brake and fuel lines with reproduction lines and brackets available from restoration suppliers. If you’re concerned about the safety and reliability of the single-piston master cylinder, dual-piston conversions are available. For safety’s sake, I recommend replacing all brake lines, hoses, cylinders, shoes, hardware, drums and park brake cables with new. Be aware that some repro park brake cables won’t mount securely in the stock frame brackets. I had to fabricate some small “L” brackets to prevent the new cables from pulling out of the frame brackets. While you’re at it, make sure that the frame-mounted shaft

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supporting the brake and clutch pedals is horizontal to the frame. If this shaft isn’t aligned properly, the pedals won’t align with the holes in the cab floor. For whatever reason, the bracket holding my pedal mounting shaft needed straightening and, since the bracket is made from 1/4” steel, this job is very time-consuming. Before disassembling the front axle, check the camber angle on each side. Back in the 1950s, a mechanic had inadvertently switched the spindles from sideto-side during a collision repair, which caused my truck to wander. Years later when I had my own alignment machine, I switched the right and left spindles to provide the most positive camber on the driver’s side. Kingpin reaming has probably become a lost art. When checking kingpin wear, temporarily adjust all endplay out of the wheel bearings and make sure that the tapered kingpin retaining bolt is snugged into place. All kingpins have some play, but shouldn’t have enough to substantially affect toe angle. Once installed, the kingpin bushings must be

Before checking kingpin bushing wear, snug the tapered retainer bolt and tighten the wheel bearings to zero endplay.

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» Memory Lane carefully reamed to a hand-press fit. If the spindle is too tight to turn by hand when mounted on the axle, the steering won’t return properly. If the kingpin is fitted too loosely, it will develop excessive play at an early stage. Make sure that the kingpin support bearing is lubed and installed right-side up so it will shed water. Next, shim the endplay out of the spindle and make sure the protective end caps are properly staked into place. One shot of quality water-resistant chassis grease at 1,500-mile intervals is generally enough to keep the kingpins, tie rods, drag link and spring shackles properly lubricated. Last, repack the original balltype wheel bearings with viscous wheel bearing grease and adjust to allow a few thousandths of an inch of endplay. If you’re concerned about bearing durability, tapered roller bearings are available as a drop-in replacement. Although remanufactured steering gears are available, I rebuilt my own. The major problem I had was removing the steering worm bearing cup from the adjustable end plug. I ended up having a new plug custom-built. If the recirculating ball portion is severely worn, the steering gear overcenter adjustment can’t be made. When properly adjusted, the steering wheel should turn freely, but exhibit zero play at the steering gear center point and some looseness when turned to full lock.

1955 CHEVY RESTORATION

The first- and second-series 1955 trucks were equipped with an open-driveshaft Hotchkiss drive. The basic four-speed transmission design was used until the early ’60s. Because I’m building a higherrevving engine for later installation, I found that McLeod Clutches in California still had the patterns available to fabricate a new steel-billet flywheel to fit the dowel pins on the crankshafts of the early Chevy sixes. McLeod also supplied the clutch assembly. Later six-cylinder engines use the same flywheel as the small-block V8 engines. Engines

The post-war 216 cubic-inch engines were equipped with poured connecting rod and main bearings. The main bearings were lubricated with about 15 psi oil pressure and the connecting rods used dipper lubrication. Because engine life was generally less than 70,000 miles in those days, most dipper-lubricated engines were eventually replaced with one of the many full-pressure engines that flooded the salvage yards during the late 1950s. Full-pressure, insert-bearing engines first appeared in the 1953

Drivetrain

I won’t spend much time on drivetrain because the basic technology hasn’t changed much in 50 years. Chevrolet trucks used a torque-tube drive through 1954.

The electric fan required hand-fabricated shrouding to help force air through the OE radiator.

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Chevy sedans equipped with Powerglide transmissions. The changeover continued through 1954 and, by 1955, all six-cylinder engines were equipped with insert bearings and full-pressure lubrication. The engine ID number is on the engine block, just behind the distributor. Engine identification information is available on restoration suppliers’ websites and from antique engine restoration specialists like Egge Machine in Santa Fe Springs, CA. My current engine is a 1954 261 cubic-inch, heavy-duty truck engine that I purchased from the estate of a veteran mechanic friend. I understand that he increased the power on this freshly rebuilt engine by installing the old six-cylinder Corvette camshaft and milling 0.030” off the cylinder head. Getting the correct water pump length is important when swapping the Chevy 216, 235 and 261 six-cylinder engines into the early chassis. In this case, I installed a new, short-shaft water pump available from any restoration supplier. The engine is also equipped with a Mallory electronic distributor, Clifford Research water-heated intake manifold, Clifford tubular header and exhaust system, and a 350 cfm Keith Dorton series, two-barrel Holley carburetor. To aid part-throttle fuel distribution, I mounted the carburetor sideways on the manifold. The carburetor has replaceable air bleeds and was originally designed for 2.3L, fourcylinder Ford racing engines. When adding carburetion, it’s important to either use a chart or calculate the cubic feet per minute (cfm) air flow of the engine. Since an excessive cfm rating will make the carburetor difficult to jet and

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» Memory Lane

1955 CHEVY RESTORATION

To eliminate the bulky and messy OE cartridge oil filter, I mounted a remote spin-on oil filter inside the frame and a small oil cooler under the radiator mount to help cool the return oil.

I used a 1/8” gas welding rod to mock up the carburetor bell crank linkage. The hand-made throttle pedal bell crank bolted to the inner firewall is mounted on ball bearings for smooth operation.

will reduce low-speed throttle response and performance, always give the smaller carburetor the benefit of the doubt. In this case, 80% volumetric efficiency is just about all a vintage Chevy six will produce. Therefore, a 261 cid engine running at 80% volumetric efficiency will pump about 350 cfm of air at 5,000 rpm. In any case, this engine has plenty of torque and, with a 3.90:1 axle ratio and 27” diameter tires, it easily climbs most hills in high gear. Electrical Systems

Because crumbling insulation is 26 October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

The fuel filter and electric fuel pump are mounted together on a fabricated aluminum mount that bolts onto stock bolt holes located inside the frame.

an invitation to disaster, it’s necessary to replace the wiring harness, especially if your truck will be used as a “daily driver.” Since I installed a 12-volt system with manually controlled electric fan, electric fuel pump, latemodel starter and single-wire alternator, I designed my own wiring harness. The first step is to determine fuse capacity by connecting a battery charger to the battery and bringing the terminal voltage up to 7.1 for six-volt systems or up to 14.2 for 12-volt systems. Keep in mind that the amperage draw on six-volt accessory will also be about twice that of a 12volt accessory. With the charger in place, the amperage draw of each accessory can be accurately

» Memory Lane measured by connecting it to the battery and checking the amperage draw with an inductive amp probe. In general, most accessories should be fused at twice the amperage draw. Motors might require three times operating amperage due to high startup amperages. The fuse capacity should also be consistent with the gauge of wire being used. Because the original six-volt system provided fuses only for the brake and tail lights, I attached an auxiliary aftermarket tubular-fuse box to the bottom of the cardboard glove box to protect the fuel pump and accessories. The cardboard is protected from heat by aluminum backing plates attached to the fuse box. Not perfect, but the glove box was the only location under the dash that was convenient and functional. The next step in fabricating your own harness is to use your search engine to locate “ampacity,” which will lead you to a number of websites that will provide the amperage capacity of various lengths and gauges of wire. If in doubt, go with the heavier wire gauge just to preserve mechanical strength. If you’re staying with a six-volt system, an original-style replacement wiring harness has the much larger wire gauge size needed to handle the extra amperage required for six volts. If you’re going with 12 volts, the six-volt wiring harness can be modified as required. Because I changed over to a 1960s bell housing with the solenoid-controlled starter, I had to fabricate the engine wiring harness. I basically stayed with the original color codes and duplicated the original lighting harnesses,

1955 CHEVY RESTORATION

Here, the wiring has been attached to the engine accessories, zip-tied together, and is ready to route under the dash. In this case, I left the wiring zip-tied so I could modify it at a later date.

routing them through the original retaining clips and junction blocks to provide an original look. I routed the starter, fuel pump and ignition system harness through an existing hole in the firewall and dropped the wiring directly over the top of the starter. I also kept the original firewall-mounted horn relay and brake/tail light fuse box to give it that “original” look. The key to making a neat, show-worthy wiring harness is to keep the wires running straight in the loom. It’s best to buy a large bag of 4” cable ties to hold the wiring harness together until all wires are installed and cut to the correct length. It’s easier to neatly tape the harness by clamping the end in a soft-jaw vise and stretching the wires tight. The tape should generally be lapped about half-width. The wires should also neatly exit the loom to the accessory and be “y” taped at every junction. Practice makes perfect here, so be prepared to waste some tape and wiring to learn the process. I recommend buying professional wire crimping pliers (available from any online speed shop) that can accommodate different

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types of factory terminals. It takes some practice using extra terminals and scraps of wire, but making a factory-style crimp makes the job look show-worthy. But, following my own preference, I soldered all connectors with a mini butane torch. It’s important to use small-gauge rosin-core solder and to only place a small drop of solder at the tip of the wire where it exits the crimp. If solder is allowed to creep into the length of the wire, it will cause a stress point that will cause the copper wire to work-harden and break. To give the connection a factory look, I placed a half-inch length of the correct diameter heat shrink tube over the connector crimp. In any case, it’s much easier to fabricate the wiring harness before the steering column, clutch and brake pedals, seat and doors are installed. It takes patience to loom the wire into the factory mounts, but a modified wiring harness can be fabricated that looks very close to the factory version. Before plunging into any restoration project, remember that it takes a lot of planning and re-do work before you achieve professional results. ■

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Ford 4.6L

SOHC & DOHC Engine Service By Larry Carley, technical editor

ord’s overhead cam 4.6L V8 engine has been in production since 1991 and has been used in a wide variety of Ford, Lincoln and Mercury models from Crown Victorias and Mustangs to F-150s and Expeditions. There are millions of these engines on the road and there are a lot of different versions of the engine including two-valve and threevalve single overhead cam (SOHC) engines, and four-valve dual overhead cam (DOHC) engines. The two-valve (2V) 4.6L was the first production version, built in two different Ford plants (Romeo and Windsor). For some reason known only to Ford’s engineers, the Romeo and Windsor engines were not |identical, which means you have to know which engine you have if you are rebuilding it or replacing internal parts. The engine blocks are slightly different, the cams and cam gears are different, the crankshafts are different, and the heads and valve covers are different. For example, Ford began producing the Triton overhead camshaft (OHC) engine in 1997 in V8 and V10 configurations, which was installed exclusively in its trucks and SUVs (not cars). Over the years, there have been numerous

October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

2005 4.6L 3-VALVE V8

variants, changes and improvements in the 4.6L V8. In 1999, 2V engines destined for Mustangs got a Performance Improved (PI) package that included revised square port Windsor heads and deeper dished pistons. The Romeo plant added the PI square port heads in 2001. The “Not Power Improved” (NPI) oval port heads also remained in production through 2000 in the Romeo plant. There were also variations in camshafts, front timing covers, cam drives and timing chain guides used in the 2V engines. In 1993, a four-valves-per-cylinder (4V) high output version of the 4.6L V8 with dual overhead cams and an aluminum block was produced for the Lincoln Mark VIII. In 1999, the

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head ports on the 4V engine were revised for better airflow, and in 2003-’04 a special four-bolt main cast iron block was produced exclusively for the Mustang SVT Cobra. The 4V engine continued in production through 2004 in the Mustang. In 2005, Ford introduced a three-valve (3V) SOHC version of the 4.6L for the newly restyled retro-look Mustang. Major changes included the use of two intake valves and one exhaust valve per cylinder to increase air velocity, torque and power, variable cam timing and a weight-saving aluminum cylinder block. The improvements bumped the power output up to 300 hp (compared to 190 to 250 hp for the older 2V 4.6L V8s). All of these 4.6L engines are often referred to as Ford “modular” V8s. The implication is that the engines share a lot in common and that parts are interchangeable. Nothing could be further from the truth. The word “modular” only means that the tooling Ford uses on its production lines is modularized (standardized) so that it can be used to produce engines with similar configurations and geometry. It does not mean Ford designed the engines so there would be a lot of parts commonality between all the 4.6L engine variants.

SERVICE ISSUES Like any engine family, there have been a number of service issues with the 4.6L engines over the years: One of the major issues has been that of changing the spark plugs on 2005 to early 2008 Mustangs, 2006 to early 2008 Explorer and Mountaineer, and 2007 to early 2008 Explorer Sport Trac with the 4.6L V8. On engines built prior to Nov. 30, 2007, Ford used a two-piece spark plug that has a long steel tubular ground electrode around the center electrode. This is necessary because the plug extends deep into the cylinder head so it can be positioned near the center of the combustion chamber. When you attempt to remove the spark plug, corrosion on the outer portion of the ground electrode and carbon buildup between the plug and head can bind the plug. If you are not extremely careful while loosening the plug, you

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can easily break off the outer ground electrode where it joins the upper part of the spark plug. The busted metal tip of the spark plug and center electrode remain in the head when the top of the plug comes out. This same problem also afflicts 5.4L V8 truck engines from 2004 to early 2008 because they use the same type of spark plug. Ford TSB 08-7-6 covers the recommended removal procedure to reduce the risk of breaking the plugs, and covers their repair procedure using Rotunda tool 303-1203 for extracting the broken tip of the spark plug from the head. Many Ford dealerships are scared to death to change the spark plugs on these vehicles because they know the risk of breakage is so high — and they are charging their customers a small fortune (up to $1,000 or more!) when they break the plugs because of the time and effort it often takes to make the repairs. That means there’s a significant service opportunity for the independent repair shop that knows how to reduce the risk of plug breakage on these engines. First, don’t wait until the odometer hits 100,000 miles to change the plugs. When the plugs have been in that long, the chance of corrosion and carbon buildup binding the plugs in place is extremely high. Many experts recommend changing the original factory spark plugs at no more than 30,000 to 40,000 miles. The longer you wait, the greater the risk of breaking one or more plugs. Second, run some combustion chamber cleaner though the engine before you attempt to change

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» TechFeature the spark plugs. This will help loosen up and remove carbon that has built up around the tips of the spark plugs. Also, spray penetrating oil into the spark plug wells from above and give it some time to work into the threads. And when you first loosen the plugs, only turn them about half a turn before applying more penetrating oil and allowing more time for it to work. If a plug starts to bind, rotate it the other way slowly (retighten it) before trying to back it out again. It may squeak in protest as you slowly work it loose, but patience is essential to prevent breakage. The last thing you want to do is muscle it out with excessive force as this will almost always snap off the tip of the plug. Third, when you replace the spark plugs do not install the same type of two-piece spark plugs as the original equipment spark plugs. One-piece aftermarket spark plugs are available for these applications that virtually eliminate the risk of repeat breakage. Apply a light coating of nickel anti-seize lubricant to the outer surface of the metal ground electrode shell to help prevent it from binding

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the next time the plugs are changed. Do not apply lubricant to the very tip of the spark plug (near the electrode gap) as this could cause a misfire. You should also use a torque wrench to final tighten each spark plug. Note that the early style spark plugs on 2005 to early 2008 engines have a lighter torque specification (9 lb.-ft. or 12 Nm) than those on later engines (which is 25 lb.-ft. or 34 Nm). On the 32-valve 4V DOHC 4.6L engines, spark plug access is difficult and requires a deep well spark plug tool that can hold the plug securely as it comes out. Drop the plug and you may waste quite a bit of time trying to fish it out. These engines as well as the earlier 2V SOHC engines have spark plugs with “short” threads (only four or five threads on the plug) so it is relatively easy to damage the threads in the cylinder head if a plug sticks on its way out, or if it is crossthreaded or over-tightened when it is installed. As with the troublesome twopiece spark plugs on the 2004 to early 2008 3V 4.6L engines, use penetrating oil and a gradual back-and-forth

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COMPLAINTS OF TICKING AND/OR KNOCKING NOISES FROM FORD 4.6L/5.4L 3V ENGINES There have been complaints that some Ford vehicles equipped with a 4.6L 3valve or 5.4L 3-valve engine may exhibit a ticking and/or knocking noise after reaching normal operating temperature. The noise may be described as “ticks,” “taps,” “knocks” or “thumps.” In some cases the noise may be a normal characteristic of these engines. In other cases the noise may require further investigation. Sorting out and defining the noise as reported by the customer is important to successfully diagnose and/or repair the condition. Before starting diagnosis, it is critical to determine the specific engine noise the customer is concerned with. The customer should be interviewed to get a detailed description of the noise, and to determine if the noise occurs at idle or above idle speed, and if it occurs when the engine is cold, hot or both. Attempt to duplicate the noise, and determine the source of the symptom. Refer to the following Service Procedure to help determine the source of the noise and if a repair is needed. The 4.6L 3V and 5.4L 3V engines are installed in several vehicle platforms, which may influence the intensity of noise due to vehicle differences in sound transmission paths, hood and body insulation packages, and root cause of the component(s) causing the noise.

» TechFeature loosening technique to remove the plugs. The engine should also be cool to the touch, never hot. If the plug threads in the cylinder head are damaged, there are various thread repair kits available for restoring the threads, which is far less expensive than removing and replacing a cylinder head! Ford TSB 07-21-2 covers thread repair procedures on these engines. Ignition misfires can be a problem with any engine, and may be due to multiple causes such as a dirty or dead fuel injector, an air leak in the intake manifold, a leaky EGR valve, a weak or broken valve spring, a blown head gasket, fouled spark plug, bad ignition coil or spark arcing down the boot around the spark plug. If a misfire problem is ignition related, remove the coilon-plug and inspect the boot that extends down around the spark plug. Carbon tracks or corrosion on the boot can provide a path to ground for the spark as can water in the spark plug well. Clean or replace as needed. If there is corrosion on the outside of the boot, it could be from an engine coolant leak at the intake manifold. Another common problem on these engines is a broken coil-on-plug electrical connector. The plastic locking tab that holds the wiring connector in place may be broken, allowing the connector to work loose or make intermittent contact. Some bozo who last worked on the engine probably broke the connector Circle #34 for Reader Service

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Pre-Checks 1. Make sure you have a detailed description of the noise the customer is concerned with, including whether the noise is occurring at idle or above idle speed (Does it disappear above 1,200 rpm?), and if the engine is cold, hot or both when the noise is occurring. These engines generate a lot of “normal” noises, so it is critical to confirm the noise the customer is concerned with. 2. Determine what environment the customer is in when the noise is most noticeable to them (inside passenger compartment, next to building with/without the driver and/or passenger window open, or beside the wheel well). Validate by using your own perception. 3. Compare the noise generated with a new vehicle, if available, with an engine build date of March 30, 2005 or later on Mustangs and April 18, 2005 or later on F-150 to F-350, Expedition and Navigator vehicles. If the noise is the same, the noise is normal and would be a characteristic of the vehicle. Do not continue with this bulletin. 4. Diagnose the noise when the engine is at normal operating temperature (oil at 160° F, 71° C or above). Verify oil temperature by using a scan tool and monitoring the engine oil temperature (EOT) PID. 5. Check the type of oil filter installed on the vehicle. A dirty or clogged filter may cause a pressure drop. Look for aftermarket brands not recognized in the market or a production filter that has gone beyond the standard Ford-recommended change interval. 6. Check for signs of which oil brand was used and its viscosity (interview customer if needed), Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium

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Âť TechFeature and never repaired it. Replacement pigtails for the connector are relatively inexpensive and simple to install. The plastic intake manifold can be another source of trouble on some of 4.6L engines. On 1996 to 2001 Crown Vic, Lincoln Town Car and Mercury Grand Marquis models, the plastic manifold can split across the front (right behind the alternator), creating a coolant leak. If not detected, the loss of coolant will eventually cause the engine to overheat. The front temperature sensor fitting and rear heater hose connections may also loosen on these plastic manifolds, creating additional coolant leaks. In 2002, the intake manifold was redesigned with an aluminum crossover piece in the front to reduce the risk of cracking and coolant loss, and a stronger upper alternator mount. If you are replacing a bad intake manifold on one of these older applications, therefore, install the newer upgraded intake manifold.

INTERNAL ISSUES The 4.6L engine has a good reputation for reliability, but like any engine it has had a few problems. The relatively long timing chain that drives the overhead cams is tensioned by plastic guides on many of these engines. As long as the oil is changed regularly and a goodquality oil is used (along with the correct oil filter that contains an anti-drainback valve), the timing chain holds up well. But if oil changes are neglected, cheap-quality oil is used or a filter that lacks an anti-drainback valve is installed, guide wear and/or breakage can become a Circle #36 for Reader Service

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Synthetic Blend Motor Oil or equivalent is recommended. Once the above pre-checks are complete, check for sound level from the following components, in the order listed. Compare the sound from these components to the noise the customer is concerned with, to determine the source of the noise.

Injection/Fuel System Injector noise (ticking) is considered normal. Noise increases with rpm, hot or cold, and is recognized at the top of the engine.

Valvetrain Lash adjusters can make a ticking/ tapping noise noticeable at any engine rpm/temperature and is audible through the wheel well or an open hood. However, with the hood down, lash adjuster noise can be heard as a light tapping noise through the wheel well and is considered normal. Tracing this noise must be isolated to a cylinder bank. If one bank is louder than the other bank, focus the diagnosis to the loud bank. If both banks seem loud with the hood down, compare the wheel well sound levels to one another and work on the loudest bank. Use a stethoscope on the top of the cam cover bolt heads to confirm which bank is affected. Move the probe from front to rear if necessary. If isolated to a specific bank, replace all the lifters, intake and exhaust only on the affected cylinder bank. If the noise cannot be isolated to a specific bank, then in the majority of situations this would not be a lifter-related noise.

Variable Cam Timing The 4.6L 3V and 5.4L 3V variable cam timing (VCT) feature may emit a light knock in normal operation and is audible only at idle speed, with a hot engine (gear selector in park/neutral). However, it may be masked by or mistaken for other

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noises generated from either injector firing or a malfunctioning valvetrain as described above. The noise does not affect performance or durability of the part. VCT phasers may knock at hot idle. It may be heard inside the passenger compartment, or the wheel well area. Some light noise is normal.

problem, and the timing chain may fail. A symptom of chain guide wear would be chain rattle following a cold start. If a chain guide has broken, the chain tensioner can overextend and rotate, changing the timing of the affected camshaft. This, in turn, may cause a rough idle and possibly set a P0300 random misfire code and/or lean or rich codes. The cam phasers on the 3V 4.6L engines can also tend to be noisy, producing a light knocking sound at idle. This is normal, Ford says. But if the noise is excessive (under 1,200 rpm) or there are cam-related fault codes, the problem may be a bad variable cam timing phaser that needs to be replaced. If you encounter a 2007-’08

Mustang, Expedition, Explorer or F-150 that makes a strange whistling or hooting noise for a few minutes following a cold start, the problem may be a bad serpentine belt idler pulley. Ford TSB 09-9-7 says replacing the grooved nylon FEAD (front end accessory drive) idle pulley with P/N 6L3Z-6C348-A should eliminate the noise. The oil pump on the 4.6L engine is a front-mounted crankshaftdriven pump. The 2V, 3V and 4V engines all use different oil pumps, so make sure you get the correct one if you have to replace a pump. The 4V oil pump flows more oil than the 2V pump, and the 3V pump flows more than the 2V and 4V pumps.

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VARIABLE CAM TIMING The engine may require a cold soak overnight for a full diagnosis to effectively be made at hot idle, particularly when a VCT phaser is suspected. The knock is not prevalent at cold temperatures.

To Test for VCT Noise: 1. Place the transmission in park or neutral. 2. Bring the engine oil temperature to 160° F (71° C) or above as indicated by the scan tool EOT PID. 3. Allow the engine to idle, and determine if noise is noticeable. 4. Set engine speed to over 1,200 rpm (if noise is a VCT knock, the noise should disappear). 5. Return engine speed to idle (verify knock returns). If the noise intensity is more than a lightly audible knock at hot idle under 1,200 rpm at engine operating temperature, replace the cam phaser using the camshaft “InVehicle Repair” procedure found in the workshop manual.

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If you are replacing an oil pump, the pump gears must be perfectly centered on the crank so that the gears won’t bind against the side of the pump housing. This is best done with the block out of the car sitting up on end so the crankshaft is vertical and centered in the main bores. If you are replacing the oil pump, it’s a good idea to also replace the pickup tube inside the oil pan if the engine is being totally rebuilt or has suffered a catastrophic piston or bearing failure that may have spewed debris into the crankcase. Debris lurking inside the pickup tube may be drawn into the new oil pump. Also replace the pickup tube O-ring and make sure it is properly seated so air won’t be drawn into the pump. Also, you need to prime the engine’s lubrication system with a pressure primer. Add oil to the primer and pressurize the tank with a shop air hose, then connect the supply hose to the oil sending unit fitting on the side of the engine. Open the tank valve to allow oil to flow into the engine’s lubricating system and pump. It’s also a good idea to turn the crankshaft one full revolution by hand before starting the engine. This will help spread the oil on the crank bearings. ■

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If the noise is only a lightly audible knock at hot idle under 1,200 rpm, do not attempt to repair this normal engine noise.

Startup Rattle Some 2004 F-150 and 2005 F-150, Expedition, Navigator, Super Duty and Mustang vehicles may have a rattle on startup that lasts one to three seconds. If initial pre-checks have been completed and the noise sounds like it is coming from the front of the engine, replace the VCT phaser (3R2Z-6A257-DA kit). If the engine continues to make the rattle noise after the initial startup, check for other possible areas. This information was provided by the Automotive Parts Remanufacturers Association (APRA). For more information on technical bulletins available through APRA, call 703-968-2772 or visit AutoBulletins.com.

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Connection

FUEL PUMP

Fuel Pump Quick Tips T he fuel pump not only delivers fuel but also develops the pressure necessary to force fuel through the injectors when the engine is running. Most pumps generate from 35 to 80 psi depending on the application. If the pump stops running for any reason, or fails to deliver the required pressure and volume to keep the engine running, the engine may stall, run poorly or refuse to start. It’s one repair that cannot be postponed because the vehicle isn’t going anywhere until the fuel delivery

October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

problem has been diagnosed and corrected. A fuel delivery or pressure problem doesn’t always mean the fuel pump needs to be replaced. The problem may be something else such as a bad fuel pump relay; blown fuse; a loose, shorted or corroded wiring connection in the fuel pump circuit; a plugged fuel filter; a pinched or restricted fuel line; a leaky or defective fuel pressure regulator; or no gas in the tank. Accurate diagnosis is essential to prevent unnecessary fuel pump replacements, returns and warranty claims. To briefly summarize, it’s important to diagnose the cause of a fuel delivery problem before replacing any parts. If a pump fails to run when the ignition key is turned on, it might be a bad pump or it might be an electrical fault. If the pump runs but fails to develop normal pressure (which requires testing with a gauge at the fuel rail on the engine), it might indicate a weak pump, a fuel line restriction or a leaky fuel pressure regulator. Fuel volume also is important. A weak pump may generate normal pressure at idle, but fail to keep up as engine load and speed increase. A good pump should usually deliver a

quart of fuel in 30 seconds. Other items that should also be replaced include the rubber sealing ring that goes under the pump cover on the fuel tank, the fuel filter and the pump inlet filter sock inside the tank. Contamination is the number one cause of fuel pump failures as well as repeat pump failures. On older, high-mileage vehicles, rubber fuel lines should be replaced if the hoses have become brittle or cracked. The fuel pump wiring harness also may have to be replaced if it is corroded or burned. A new fuel pump relay is also recommended to prevent problems down the road. A good source of information on this subject is the Fuel Pump Manufacturer’s Council (FPMC). They have a number of training videos that can be viewed on the Automotive Aftermarket Suppliers Association (AASA) website. Go to fuelpumpinfo.org. ■

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Engine Skills

TAUGHT IN TODAY’S TECH SCHOOLS Sinclair Engine Building, Part II by Bill Holder Photos by Phil Kunz

he July issue of Underhood Service described two engine build-ups as a part of Ohio’s Sinclair Community College High-Performance course. This article will discuss two more build-ups, which include 440 Mopar and 400 Chevy starting points with the results being huge performance gains.

440/496cid Mopar Build-up For 65-year-old Jim Rose, his engine build project started at the lowest of starting points with a rusty 1967 440 block that had been sitting in a field for a long time. He also had an ultimate location for the engine on completion — the engine compartment of a ’69 Dodge A12 replica drag car and providing about 600 hp, which was accomplished. Jim’s motivation for the buildup came from his longtime fascination of big block Mopars. During the process, he found that there was a lot more to do than he had expected. But he found help through Sinclair Community College. “The Sinclair instructors were always right there keeping me going in the right direction,” he said. In all, there was about $6,000 invested and “a whole bunch of hours of work.”

October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

Automotive student Jim Rose is looking to transform a rusty 440 Mopar block into into a performance powerplant.

“The Sinclair instructors were always right there keeping me going in the right direction.” — Jim Rose

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CAREER BUILDING / PART II

The first goal was to increase the displacement to 496, which was done with an overbore. And there was also a lot of precision work required including line honing and decking. Jim decided that Edelbrock aluminum heads would be required to achieve the 600horse figure he desired. “I wanted them to be the best,

so I carefully smoothed the intake and exhaust passages,” he explained. “I also used larger 2.20” valves.” Other upgrades included increasing the oil pan volume to contain eight quarts of 20weight oil. The fuel is 115 octane Turbo Blue with the final compression ratio about 15-1.

SHOWING SOME MUSCLE According to Tony Begley, president of the Muscle Car Club (musclecarclub.com), the following are the greatest muscle car engines of all time: Ford/Mercury 427 Cammer 1965 The most powerful engine ever made was the Ford 427 Cammer, which was developed with the intention of taking on Chrysler’s Hemis. Ford gave the 427 block new heads with hemispherical combustion chambers. To cap that, they fitted overhead camshafts — one per cylinder bank — which gave the engine its name and allowed it to rev to an unheard of 7,500 rpm. With the regular single four-barrel carb, the “Cammer” put out 616 hp, but with dual four-barrels, it produced a massive 657 hp. With this kind of power, the 427 Cammer was totally unsuitable for street use. These engines were not sold to the general public, but about 50 examples were built, mostly for professional drag racers.

Ford 428/429 Cobra Jet 1968-’71 Ford unveiled perhaps its most famous line of engines — the 428 Cobra Jet — in 1968. The engine was based on the regular 428, but Retiree Al Christian opted to build a 421 Stroker engine to serve in a street vehicle. Here he seen installing a Milodon oil pan.

400/421cid GM Engine Build-up Fifty-three-year-old Al Christian, retired from the Air Force, had the strong desire to build up a 421 Stoker engine to serve as a street car engine with about 500 hp and 550 lb.-ft. of torque. It was a long journey as he started with a bare Bowtie racing block. The increased displacement was accomplished by a significant boring to 4.155”. The block was honed and the deck was squared. All the galleries were camferred and the valleys smoothed. To produce the power he required, he installed a potent rotating 46 October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

429 COBRA JET

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CAREER BUILDING / PART II included larger valve heads, the race 427’s intake manifold and an oil-pan windage tray. It had ram-air induction and breathed through a functional hood scoop. Output was listed at 335 hp, but was rumored to be around 410 hp. The 428 Cobra Jet engines were replaced in 1970 by new 429 Cobra Jet engines. The 429 CJ was rated at 370 hp, while the Super Cobra Jet had 11.3:1 compression and was rated at 375 hp.

Buick 400/455 Stage 1 1968-’73

mass consisting of SRP aluminum pistons and Eagle rods. Next, AFP aluminum heads were selected. Due to the fact that the valve springs were gauged for racing, it was necessary substitute softer units for street driving. “I had received good comments from builders who had used these heads and they sure worked for me,” Al said. Other engine parts that were selected were a Comp Cams roller cam and an aluminum Edelbrock intake. The carb selected was an 850 cfm Demon. Finally, the exhaust was expelled by 1-7/8” full-length Hooker Headers Al was looking for a 10.5-1 compression ratio, which was what he had been hoping for. What he also got that he desired was excellent dyno readings of 503 horses and 565 lb.-ft. of torque. Definitely a great build! ■ 48 October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

In a nod to the performance market that was driving muscle car sales, Buick quietly introduced a rare dealer-installed option in 1968, which treated the 400 cid engine with a hotter cam, 11.0:1 compression, stronger valve springs and a reworked transmission. Officially pegged at a mere 345 hp, or just a 5 hp increase over the base 400 cid engine, experts believe that it was more like 390 hp and it dropped 1/4mile times by one second or more. It was called the “Stage 1 Special Package” and was an indicator of great things to come. 1970 saw the greatest Buick engine of all time. GM finally lifted its corporate ban of engines larger than 400 cubic inches in an intermediate body and Buick responded by stuffing a brandnew 455 cubic inch engine into its restyled GS. The 455 boasted more displacement, bigger valves and a hotter cam than the 400, and was also mated to standard cold air induction through functional hood scoops. The 455 was rated at 350 hp and a stump pulling 510 lb.-ft. of torque. This was the highest torque rating of any production engine besides Cadillac’s 472 and 500 cid V8s, and no engine achieved it at a lower rpm (2,800 rpm).

Chevrolet 409 1961-’63 In 1961, Chevrolet introduced its 409 cubic inch V8, the engine that would launch the Big Three auto manufacturers into the horsepower race that would last well into the 1970s. The 409 was actually a response to Ford’s new 390 cid engine, which was outperforming Chevys on the dragstrip. Although it put out “only” 360 hp compared to Ford’s top 375 hp, those extra 19 cid gave it respect on the street and immortalized it in song (“She’s real fine, my 409”).

“She’s real fine, my 409” Unfortunately, the 409 already came with 11.25 compression and a four-barrel carburetor, and due to its wedge-shaped combustion chambers was not very easy to improve performance further. In 1962, The 409 was improved by adding new cylinder heads and a revised camshaft. With the standard 4 bbl carb, the 409 produced 380 hp.

Chevrolet 427 ZL1 1969 The ZL1 engine was based on the regular Chevrolet 427 engine. However, instead of the regular iron-block and head L72 found in the regular 427 engine, the ZL1 sported aluminum heads and the first aluminum block ever made by Chevrolet. It shared the L88 aluminum head/iron block’s engine rating of 430 hp but made closer to 500 hp — making it probably the most powerful engine Chevrolet ever offered to the public. And the engine weighed just 500 lbs., the same as Chevy’s 327 small block. The ZL1 was made available only for 1969 under COPO 9560 and Chevrolet needed to install 50 copies to qualify the ZL1 Camaro for racing.

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» TechTalk

CAREER BUILDING / PART II

Chevrolet 302 1967-’69 In 1967, Chevrolet quietly created a Z28 option for its new Camaro. Specifically designed to compete in the Sports Car Club of America Trans Am racing series, which placed a 305 cid limit on its entries, the Z28 was available to the public solely to qualify for racing. What you got was a unique 302 cid small block that was created by taking the 327 block and installing the short-stroke 283 crank. Advertised horsepower was listed at just 290 hp, which was not very impressive until one hooked it up to a dyno and got actual readings of 360-400

aluminum pistons and deep-groove accessory pulleys. The LS6 would be a one-year-only engine as the GM-mandated switch to unleaded fuel in 1971 sealed its fate.

Pontiac 421 Super Duty 1962-’63 1970 CHEVROLET 454 LS6 hp. The Z28 Camaro proved to be difficult to launch on the street because its high-revving engine was lethargic under 4,000 rpm and worked best when it was shifted at 7,500 rpm.

Chevrolet 454 LS6 1970

1969 CHEVROLET 302 Z28

When General Motors lifted its ban on engines larger than 400 cid in intermediate cars in 1970, Chevrolet responded by creating two new 454 cid V8s, the LS5 and LS6, and stuffed them into their Chevelle and El Camino. The LS6 used the same block as the LS5 but added on a 800-cfm Holley four barrel on an aluminum manifold, 11.25:1 compression, solid lifters, four-bolt mains, forged steel crank and connecting rods, forged

In the early 1960s, auto racing was hot and Pontiac offered a tremendous selection of performance parts and options under the name “Super Duty.” At the top of the Super Duty option list was a special line of Super Duty engines, based on its 421 V8, which Pontiac offered to the public in order to meet new NHRA rules changes that required engines and body parts for the stock classes to be production options on retail vehicles. The 1962 Super Duty 421 was officially rated at 405 hp, but true output was rumored to be around 460 hp. Although street legal, these engines were truly race ready with four-bolt mains, forged rods and crank, solid lifters and NASCAR heads.

Pontiac 455 Super Duty 1973-’74 The Super Duty 455 V8 (SD-455) was introduced in the Pontiac Firebird in 1973. “Super Duty” was the name Pontiac used on its high performance (i.e. race ready) engines in the early 1960s, and the Super Duty 455 was a street-legal race-prepped engine. All SD-455s were hand assembled, and had a reinforced block, special camshaft, aluminum pistons, oversize valves and header-like exhaust manifolds. Pontiac rated the SD-455 engines at a stout 310 hp and 390 lb.-ft., but experts agreed that it was closer to 370 hp.

Mopar 413 Wedge 1963-’65 With the introduction of the 426 Max Wedge in 1963, the 413 Max Circle #50 for Reader Service

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» TechTalk

CAREER BUILDING / PART II

1964-’71 426 Hemi Wedge was dropped from the Dodge and Plymouth lines, but the 413 in milder states-of-tune remained available in Chrysler cars. For 1963, you could order a single four-barrel 413 developing 340 hp at 4,600 rpm and 470 lb.ft. of torque at 2,800 rpm. Compression ratio was 10.0:1. There was also a dual four-barrel setup that developed 390 hp at 4,800 rpm and 485 lb.-ft. of torque at 3,600 rpm.

Mopar 426 Max Wedge 1962-’65 In 1964, Chrysler introduced the 426 Max Wedge Stage III. Improvements included largercapacity Carter carburetors and larger air cleaners to accommodate them; a new camshaft with 320° of overlap; modified combustion chambers with deeper clearance notches around the valves; 13.0:1 pistons replaced by 12.5:1 pistons in the higher compression engine; and new exhaust manifolds designed for NASCAR racing.

426 Hemi 1964-’71 As most Mopar enthusiasts know, the 426 Hemi was not the

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first Chrysler Hemi, but it was the best. Whereas the Hemis of the ‘50s were passenger-car engines, the 426 Hemi of 1964 was conceived strictly as a race engine, from the oil pan up. Its purpose was to win big on the NASCAR circuit and dominate organized drag racing. The street Hemi was introduced in 1966 in the Plymouth Belvedere and the Dodge Coronet and Charger. Both engines were very similar. The street and race Hemi had the same cast iron, stress-relieved block with a bore and stroke of 4.250 x 3.750 inches. The forged, shot-peened and nitride-hardened crankshaft was the same for both street and race Hemis, as well as the impact-extruded pistons, crossbolt main bearing caps, forged connecting rods, iron cylinder heads and mechanical lifters. Despite all the modifications, the street Hemi’s advertised horsepower and torque ratings stayed at 425 hp at 5,000 rpm and 490 ft.-lbs. of torque at 4,000 rpm. Many people claim the output was closer to 500 hp. ■

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» Imported

Service

SUBARU HEAD GASKET SERVICE

Solving

Subaru

Sealing Problems By John Volz, owner Volv Bros. Automotive Repair, Grass Valley, CA

fter 39 years in the auto repair business and 31 years as an owner, I’ve had the opportunity to read many articles pertaining to the technical side of repairing automobiles. I’ve also had the opportunity to write many articles relating to shop management. But, this is my first opportunity to write a technical article. As a shop owner who specializes in the repair of Japanese vehicles, I thought I’d share some tips on Subarus. I started my Subaru experience in 1979 working at a Subaru/Mazda dealership in Southern California. I can assure you that in 1979 Subaru was not the most sought after car by consumers. For example, we sold about 125 new Mazdas each month but approximately only 10-15 Subarus per month. Fast-forward 33 years and it’s quite a different landscape for Subaru, which posted sales of almost 30,000 vehicles in May 2012, up 48% over the previous year’s number. Subarus, like many other nameplates, have common problems, one of which I’ll discuss in this article. Head gasket failure has been something Subaru has struggled with to some extent since the 1980s. There are many thoughts as to why head gasket failure on Subaru has continued. My theory is that there is a horizontally opposed engine with an aluminum block and aluminum cylinder heads, two metals that tend to move around more than the traditional cast-iron block and aluminum heads found on most Japanese cars. A poorly designed head gasket material also fuels the problem. There are some other issues that relate to premature head gasket failure. Excessive corro-

October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

sion has led Subaru to add more ground straps to the car on the later models. The discovery of voltage in the cooling system is believed to contribute to gaskets getting corroded and failing. Although Subaru did have a service campaign that helped pay for the repairs for some Subaru owners, the program has pretty much gone by the wayside at this point. The head gasket failures are found in a couple of different configurations, the most common of which is the external oil leaks at the back of the cylinder head, generally most prevalent on the left head or driver’s side. The second type is the external coolant leak, the coolant leak most common on the driver’s side, as well. Generally, it starts with the oil leaks, then progresses to the coolant leaking, too. I consider the oil leaks to be of concern, but when we see coolant leaking, the need for repair is more urgent. We generally inspect the heads for the leaks, and then discuss with our customer the severity of the

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» Imported Service leaks. In many cases, you can monitor the leaks for a period of time before the repairs are classified necessary or urgent. The final type of failure is the internal gasket failure that will produce the classic coolant loss and overheating. We see many shops try a variety of repairs, including thermostat, radiator and water pump replacement, only to leave the customer with money spent on repair bills that didn’t solve the problem. The best way to check for an internal head gasket failure on a Subaru is to check for hydrocarbons in the cooling system. You can carefully insert the probe

SUBARU EXCESSIVE A/C SYSTEM PRESSURES If you experience a vehicle with excessive A/C system pressures, rule out these quick and easy checks before making any component replacements. Verify that there are no obstructions to air flow through the condenser and/or radiator, and look in between them for debris, which may be easily overlooked. In addition, make sure to confirm that both the main and sub-fans are rotating in the proper direction and pulling air through the condenser and radiator toward the engine. If there were previous repairs that required removal of the fans, the wiring in the connectors may have become swapped during re-assembly, especially if the fan motor harness connectors didn’t come apart easily. There have been cases where this simple check was overlooked, resulting in unnecessary repairs. Courtesy of Mitchell 1.

SUBARU HEAD GASKET SERVICE

Photo 1

from your smog machine in the radiator (don’t let the coolant touch the probe). The reading will be more accurate with the engine fully warmed up. If the HC levels are above 10 ppm, the head gaskets are leaking internally into the cooling system. Subaru changed the design of its head gaskets around 2003, and designed its own coolant and special additive to help with the problem. The final topic I would like to discuss before we get into the repair is cost and how to approach the job. We’ve performed this repair more than 400 times, and although each job is unique, the cost for this job varies, depending on how the job is approached and the area of the country where the job is being done. I’ve heard quotes of $1,200–$3,200. I also hear people trying to do the repair without taking the engine out of the car, which, in my opinion, is not the correct way. (We will discuss the reasons as we proceed with the repair.) I would guess that 20% of the head gasket jobs we perform

56 October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

were done at another shop not that long ago — long enough to get out of warranty, but not long enough to warrant the cost of the “discounted repair.” We also see many shops, including the dealer, try to just repair one side, only to have the other side fail within a few months. The other issues we see are when the customer gets the head gasket replaced, only to have other seals leak soon afterward, that should have been replaced in the first place. This repair should not be approached with the mindset of “how cheap can it be done?” but rather, “what’s the best way to efficiently repair the vehicle so the job will last?” and “let’s deal with all possible issues that are somewhat related at the same time.” That said, most jobs require head gaskets, a water pump, a timing belt, drive belts, thermostat, idler pulleys, a timing belt tensioner, tune-related parts and machine shop cost. In our area, $2,220–$2,500 is the normal price range.

DIGGING IN The Subaru is a 2002 Outback

» Spotlight

ACDelco

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TRAINING ACDelco’s curriculum of hands-on, 24/7, web-based and virtual classroom courses give you and your employees the knowledge they need to stay on top, without taking them out of the shop. From new technologies to next-generation

service tools, you get access to world-class training to diagnose and effectively repair your customers’ vehicles right the first time.

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ACDelco parts. If the customer experiences a failure of an original part within the warranty period and is more than 25 miles from the original repair facility, the repair will be made at no additional cost to you or your customer. Roadside assistance can be offered to all customers of all ACDelco Professional Service Center Program participants, regardless of the brand of part installed or service performed. All customers need to do is provide a paid invoice dated within the past 12 months.

MARKETING

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With so much business conducted online via mobile devices, our service locator on ACDelco.com uses the latest digital search tools to drive traffic to ACDelco Professional Service Centers, creating new business leads that you can convert into loyal customers. All White- and Blue-level accounts are listed on the locator. ACDelco’s paid digital search agreements bring the ACDelco name to the top of almost every list. You can also ensure your business stands out from the competition with material and signage elements from the ACDelco Image Program that leave your customers with a great lasting impression. Learn how our Professional Service Center Program can rev up your business and profits by visiting acdelcotechconnect.com or by calling the ACDelco Customer Support Center at 800-825-5886, prompt 0.

ACDelco 1-800-825-5886 acdelcotechconnect.com ADVERTORIAL

UnderhoodService.com

» Imported Service with 109,982 miles. It has excessive oil leaks from the driver’s side head gasket and some from the passenger’s side. The vehicle had been repaired under warranty by the dealer at about 65,000 miles, and most likely the repairs were done without taking the engine out with probably only one head gasket being replaced. To complete the repair, follow these steps: 1. Disconnect and remove the battery (this allows for a proper cleaning of the battery box), drain all fluids and remove four exhaust flange bolts. I generally take the whole front pipe off the car. This allows for better clearance and reduces the chance of damaging the oxygen sensor wires. 2. Remove the lower bell-housing bolts and motor mount bolts. Lower the car back down and remove the radiator, leaving the fans connected. Remove the air filter box and all intake boots. 3. Remove the upper bell-housing bolts, torque the convertor bolts (auto trans.) and disconnect the two-wire harness plugs on the passenger’s side. On the driver’s side, remove the heater hoses, disconnect the two fuel hoses and remove the evap hose. 4. From the front of the engine, disconnect the A/C compressor from the mount and carefully hang it near the battery box. Remove the alternator completely from the car, remove the P/S pump from the mount, leave the hoses connected and hang them on the passenger’s side. See Photo 1 on page 56 and Photo 2. The engine can generally be out of the car in about 30-40 minutes. See Photo 3. 5. Remove the intake manifold, timing covers, timing belt and

SUBARU HEAD GASKET SERVICE

Photo 2

valve cover gaskets. Clean all the debris from the exterior of the block before removing the cylinder heads. See Photo 4. 6. Remove the cylinder heads, and spend time to properly clean them and check them for warping or pitting. I can’t stress enough the importance of this phase — the surface needs to be thoroughly cleaned. Many shops or dealerships use a “wheel” to clean the surface. This may be acceptable on some vehicles, but with the head gasket issue being so commonplace on Subarus, my opinion is that the leftover swirl marks can affect the integrity of the head gasket’s ability to seal once it’s reassembled.

Photo 4

We’ve noticed on the vehicles on which we’re replacing gaskets that

58 October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

Photo 3

were previously done at another shop that they tend to have the swirl marks on both the block and the cylinder heads. I don’t suspect that the swirls will cause an immediate failure, but, over time, they can contribute to premature failure. 7. Use a razor blade to take the larger pieces of the old gasket off, then use a sanding block to remove the remaining debris to get a clean surface. We start with 220-grit, then we progress to 400 and 600 for the final cleanup. We use 0.002” as the criteria for remachining. I also consider if the heads have been off before and if there are swirl marks from using the wheel, I generally re-machine the heads even though there may not be any significant warpage. This step will add some time since you’ll need to send it to the machine shop. Our local NAPA

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» Imported Service Auto Parts store’s machine shop provides a turnaround time of about an hour on a pair of Subaru heads for re-machining. 8. While the heads are at the machine shop, we focus on the block surface, using the block sander starting with 220-grit as stated earlier, and finishing with the 600-grit. Begin the task of working the surface to remove all dirt and leftover gasket material, taking your time to get the surface as clean as possible. This is also a good time to clean the engine cross-member, where much of the oil accumulates. Also, don’t forget the plastic gravel shield — another area for oil to accumulate. 9. Next, we focus on the front of the engine. Remove the oil pump and re-seal it, and replace the front crank seal. 10. Once the cylinder heads are back from the machine shop (see Photo 5), install them with the new head gaskets, and install new cam seals. Follow the head torque sequence. (Note: 2005 and later models may require new head bolts.) 11. Check the front idler pulleys for roughness. There is one cogged pulley and two smooth pulleys. If the bearings feel rough, I would replace them. We see quite a few cars come in that had the head gaskets replaced develop a bearing noise in the front engine area. It’s a lot more affordable to replace them while the engine is apart. 12. Inspect the tensioner. You’ll generally see some wetness near the hydraulic area; replace it while it’s all apart. 13. Install the new water pump, thermostat and timing belt. The timing belt interval on this gener-

SUBARU HEAD GASKET SERVICE

Photo 5

ation Subaru is 105,000 miles, so if it’s anywhere close to its cycle, change it. Then re-install the timing covers and closely inspect the rubber seals. If any oil has leaked from the oil pump area, chances are the seals will be swollen and won’t fit properly. Note: We also check the PCV system to make sure all hoses are sealing and are clear. Also be sure to install new spark plugs (many will require new plug wires if they’ve been contaminated with oil). 14. It’s now time to re-install the engine. See Photo 6.

Photo 6

Once it’s installed, add fluids, and then unplug the coil wire and crank the engine until you have oil pressure. After you have oil pressure, connect the coil wire and start the car. With the battery being disconnected, the computer will need to go through re-learn. We’ve found that if you let the

60 October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

car idle it will accomplish this much faster, generally in 5-10 minutes. Avoid touching the throttle to help the process. 15. While the car is going through re-learn, wait for the fans to cycle. There are two areas to closely inspect. One is the power steering pump O-ring where the reservoir hose connects to the pump. Movement from removing the engine can cause the fitting to start leaking soon after the repair. I generally replace the O-ring while the engine is being reinstalled. The other area to inspect is where the A/C lines connect to the compressor, which is also subject to leaking after the repair. We generally evacuate, replace Orings and recharge with dye as part of our job. 16. Once the car is warmed up and all fluids have been topped up, I take the car on a road test of about 25 miles. This generally ensures that the monitors have all run and that any issues can be identified before the car is returned to the customer. Part of the road test includes a trip to the car wash. The car is then brought back to the shop, where the inside of the front window is washed and the car is vacuumed. The car is then allowed to cool down for one last fluid check, and we then check for any software updates from Subaru and re-flash with our factory tool. Living in a rural area that receives snow in the winter months, Subaru is the choice of many car owners in our area. With Subaru owners being loyal to the brand, having the skills to repair their cars right the first time will also build a loyal customer following for your shop. ■

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» TechTips

JEEP / CHEVY / FORD / MERCURY / LINCOLN / NISSAN / HONDA This month is sponsored by:

Chevy Truck Re-filling the Cooling System on 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 4.0L Engine Can Be Experiences Repeat P0446 Code a Little Tricky This vehicle has a very specific way of refilling its cooling system, and if you don’t follow the proper steps, you will run into overheating problems and premature failures. When filling the system with coolant, the common procedure is to fill the radiator and the surge tank and let it run until the thermostat opens, so you can then top it off. In this vehicle, however, this must be done three times in order to avoid air pockets in the system. When these air pockets occur, they will cause the engine to overheat and create excessive pressure in the system, causing the radiator tank to blow out, potentially causing bodily harm. Figure 1 shows the cracked seam in the outlet radiator tank. Because this particular step is usually needed to be done once on most vehicles, we are noticing that many Cherokee’s of this year’s range are running on low coolant levels. Standard Procedure: Refilling Cooling System, 4.0L Engine

1. Tighten the radiator drain cock and the cylinder block drain plug(s) (if removed). 2. Fill the system using a 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol antifreeze and low mineral content water. Fill the radiator to the top and install the radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the reserve/ overflow tank to raise the level to the FULL mark. 3. With the heater control unit in the HEAT position, operate the 62

Vehicle Applications:

2005 Yukon Denali XL 6.0L 2006 Sierra 1500 5.3L 2006 Sierra 3500 6.0L 2006 Silverado 1500 4.3L, 4.8L & 5.3L 2006 Silverado 2500 HD 6.0L 2006 Silverado 3500 6.0L 2007 Silverado 1500 4.8L

Customer Concern: Repeat P0446 - Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction. Figure 1 The arrows are illustrating the 7” seam on the radiator outlet tank that cracked open during operation.

engine with the radiator cap in place. 4. After the engine has reached normal operating temperature, shut it off and allow it to cool. When the engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn into the radiator from the reserve/overflow tank. 5. Add coolant to the reserve/ overflow tank as necessary. Note: Only add coolant to this tank when the engine is cold. The coolant level in a warm engine will be higher due to thermal expansion. To purge the cooling system of all air, this heat-up/cool-down cycle (adding coolant to a cold engine) must be performed three times. Add necessary coolant to raise the tank level to the FULL mark after each cool-down period. Courtesy of Spectra Premium.

October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

Tests/Procedures: 1. Install the scan tool and monitor the fuel tank pressure sensor value to be approximately 1.5 volts and/or 0” of water vacuum (+/-0.5” H2O). 2. Run the engine at a hot curb idle and view the purge solenoid command. Increase engine speed and the purge solenoid percent will increase. Control the purge solenoid with the scan tool if available. 3. Verify the tank pressure sensor value does not go up (a slight increase of approximately 0.5 volts/1” H2O is normal). 4. If the value increases significantly, disconnect the large hose on the canister (this is the vent hose). If the value drops, check for the filter to be plugged on the vent solenoid. 5. If the value continues to rise, replace the canister. Refer to bulletin #02-06-04-037E for updated vent kit information. Courtesy of Identifix.

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» TechTips

FORD

Oil Leaking From Head Gasket on Romeo-Built Engines Ford:

1998 Mustang 1998-2000 Crown Victoria 1998-’99 F-250 LD 1998-2000 Expedition, F-150 1999-2000 E Series Lincoln:

1998-2000 Town Car Mercury:

1998-2000 Grand Marquis Some vehicles equipped with the Romeo-built 4.6L 2V engine may exhibit an engine oil leak or oil weepage from the cylinder head gasket at the righthand rear or the left-hand front of the engine. Oil weepage is not considered detrimental to engine performance or durability. An oil leak may be caused by metal chip debris lodged

Figure 1 Ford / Lincoln / Mercury Circle #64 for Reader Service

between the head gasket and the block, chip debris between the cylinder head and the head gasket, or by damage to the cylinder head sealing surface that occurred during the manufacturing process. If an oil leak is verified at the head gasket area, replacement of head gasket and cylinder head can be performed. Refer to the following Service Tips. Particular attention must be paid to inspecting the cylinder block for metal chip debris damage on the cylinder head to block mating surface, which may require block replacement. Service Information

A service remanufactured cylinder head assembly is available – P/N XL3Z-6049-AARM (left-hand),

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» TechTips

FORD

Figure 2 Ford / Lincoln / Mercury

XL3Z-6049-BARM (right-hand) containing: cylinder head assembly, cylinder head gasket, cylinder head bolts, rocker arm cover gasket, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, exhaust manifold studs and exhaust manifold nuts. Always verify the origin of an oil leak by using fluorescent dye. At times, a cam cover gasket or engine oil galley plug (particularly at the rear of the right-hand head) may be the source of the engine oil leak. See Figure 1 on page 64.

1998-2000 Head Gasket/ Cylinder Head Replacement Service Tips Note: Take extra care not to damage the head gasket sealing surface when performing cylinder head replacement. The success of the repair is dependent upon following the inspection procedure paying particular attention to the areas depicted in the accompanying figures. ■ When cleaning the block deck of residual gasket coating, use Citrus Metal Surface Cleaner (P/N F4AZ-19A536-RA) and a plastic Circle #66 for Reader Service

scraper. Wipe with a lint-free shop rag. A shop vac can be used to pick up loose debris/dirt prior to the citrus cleaner application. Note: Do not use a metal tool of any kind on the gasket sealing surface. Resulting scratches will provide a leak path. ■ During normal inspection, pay particular attention to the right bank block deck area behind cylinder #4 or the left bank block deck area in front of cylinder #5 around the oil hole breakout for dimples and impressions left by metal chips. See Figure 2 and Figure 3 on page 68. ■ The block surface around the cylinder head alignment dowels (two per bank) is another common location for scratches or dimples. ■ A known-quality straight edge should be used to ensure the block surface is flat. If a dimple or impression measures over 0.001” (0.025 mm) deep, it is recommended to replace the block. This type of damage is rare. ■ If the block does not pass checks, a new or remanufactured long block engine assembly must

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» TechTips

FORD

be ordered. For truck applications, which require use of the Modular Engine Lift Bracket 303F047 (014-00073) for engine removal, use nine links of 5/16”

chain in place of the rear bracket. See Figure 4. ■ As part of the inspection of the block for damage, remove any machining chips that may be

Figure 4 Ford / Lincoln / Mercury

Figure 3 Ford / Lincoln / Mercury

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in the bottom of the cylinder block bolt bosses. This can be done using a pencil-style magnet. ■ After removal of the chip from the block bolt bosses, and if no permanent damage to the block is found, verify that both the block and head sealing surfaces are clean prior to installing the new gasket. ■ During installation of the new head gasket(s) and the new cylinder head(s) to the block, lubricate the new head bolts with an oil-soaked rag and allow oil to drip from the bolts, prior to assembly. Note: Inspect the new cylinder head for damage prior to installation. Note: The gasket should be placed directly into position and not dragged or moved along the sealing surface to avoid damage. The gasket coating is essential to the function of the gasket. Chips, scrapes or cuts in the surface of the gasket coating may cause the gasket to leak. Note: Do not apply RTV, copper coat, aviation cement, etc. to the gasket or block/head surfaces. The gasket is to be installed dry. Any foreign material in between the gasket and the head/block may cause the gasket to leak. Courtesy of Ford Motor Company

» TechTips

FORD

MIL On with DTC P0506, P0505 and/or Engine Idle RPM Fluctuation and Hard Starts Ford/Mercury/Lincoln vehicles: 2004 F-250 5.4L EFI 2004-’05 F-350 5.4L LPG, Mountaineer 4.0L SOHC FFV 2004-’06 F-150 4.6L EFI 2004-’07 Explorer 4.0L, Mountaineer 4.0L EFI SOHC 2005-’06 E-150 and E-250 4.6L EFI; E-150–E-450 5.4L EFI; E-350 and E-450 6.8L EFI; F-350 5.4L EFI; F-450 and F-550 6.8L EFI; Mustang 4.0L EFI SOHC 2005-’07 F-250 5.4L 3V SOHC; F-350 5.4L 3V SOHC 2005-’08 Crown Victoria 4.6L, Grand Marquis 4.6L and Town Car 4.6L 2006 F-150 5.4L, F-53 Motorhome Chassis 6.8L 3V SOHC, Mark LT 5.4L 3V SOHC, Mustang 4.6L 3V SOHC 2006-’07 Explorer 4.6L 3V SOHC, Mountaineer 4.6L 3V SOHC 2007 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0L EFI SOHC and 4.6L 3V SOHC 2007-’09 Mustang 5.4L DOHC 4V EFI SC Some of the above vehicles may exhibit DTCs P0505, P0506 and/or engine idle rpm fluctuation and hard starts. These vehicles may also exhibit DTCs P2111 and P2112 after keep alive memory (KAM) has been cleared, the battery has been disconnected or if the vehicle had a dead battery. On vehicles with more

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» TechTips

FORD / NISSAN

than 10,000 miles, the issue may be caused by sludge buildup in the electronic throttle body (ETB) leading to airflow being less than desired.

Service Procedure

1. Verify the vehicle is listed above. 2. Using IDS datalogger or equivalent, check the PID value of ETC_TRIM. a. If ETC_TRIM PID is not available, proceed to step 3. b. If ETC_TRIM PID is available, proceed to step 4. 3. Reprogram the PCM to the latest calibration using integrated diagnostic system (IDS) release 75.03A and higher. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com. 4. With the vehicle in park or neutral and the A/C off, start the vehicle and allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (greater than 170° F [77° C] coolant temperature).

5. While the engine is running, using IDS datalogger or equivalent, check the PID value of ETC_TRIM. a. If ETC_TRIM value is 3.0 degrees or greater, proceed to step 6. b. If ETC_TRIM value is less than 3.0 degrees, but driveability concerns persist, the ETB is not the likely cause of the concern and replacement is not necessary. Continue with normal powertrain control/emissions diagnostics (PC/ED). 6. Remove the ETB following Workshop Manual Section 303-04. 7. Using Motorcraft Choke and Linkage Cleaner or equivalent, spray the throttle body plate and bore. Using a small, soft, solvent-resistant brush, clean the edges of the throttle plate and the mating surface of the throttle bore to remove all engine deposit buildup. Reapply the cleaner. 8. Install the throttle body. Courtesy of Mitchell 1.

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Nissan Makes Noise When Turning Applied Vehicles:

2007-’11 Versa (C11); 2007-’10: All VINs; and 2011 vehicles built before 3N1(*)C1(*)P(*)BL 465717 Confirm that a noise (clunking, popping or bumping) is coming from the front strut assembly when the steering wheel is turned. Service Procedure

1. Remove one of the front suspension coil springs. 2. Use brake cleaner to clean the top and bottom ends of the spring. 3. Install the Tube-Spr Bottom (gray) (P/N 55018-ZN90B) onto the bottom end of the spring. Starting at the end of the spring, push the rounded/trimmed end of the tube onto the spring. Note: The end of the tube must extend 0-6 mm past the end of the spring. Squeeze the tube to ensure a good bond (there is glue inside the tube). 4. Install the Tube-Spr Top (green) onto the top end of the spring. Starting at the end of the spring, push the rounded/ trimmed end of the tube onto the spring. The end of the tube must extend 4-10 mm past the end of the spring. Squeeze the tube to ensure a good bond. 5. All 2010 and applicable 2011 Versa: Proceed to step 6. 2007-’09 Versa only: Replace the strut mounting bearing with P/N 54325-JE20C. 6. Reinstall all removed parts. When re-installing the strut mount insulator, apply Bitmen Wax to the center nut after tightening it to the specified torque. 7. Perform this procedure on the other front suspension coil spring. Courtesy of ALLDATA.

HONDA

» TechTips

Honda Fit’s HVAC Blower Motor Works Only On High Speed Applies To:

2009-’10 Fit – All 2011 Fit - From VIN JHMGE8...B5000001 through JHMGE8...B5000012 2011 Fit - From VIN JHMGE8...BC000001 through JHMGE8...BC012605 Symptom

The HVAC blower motor works only on high speed. Probable Cause

Excessive current draw from the HVAC blower motor causes the blower resistor to fail. Corrective Action

Replace the HVAC blower motor and the blower resistor. Parts Information

HVAC Blower Motor: P/N 79310TF0-G01 Blower Resistor: P/N 79335-TF0G01

Figure 1 HONDA

Circle #71 for Reader Service

» TechTips

HONDA

Figure 2 HONDA Repair Procedure

1. Remove the passenger-side dashboard undercover (see Figure 1 on page 71): – Gently pull down the front edge to detach the clips. – Pull the cover toward you to release the pins. 2. Replace the HVAC blower motor (see Figure 2): – Disconnect the connector. – Remove the three screws and the blower motor. – Install the new blower motor with the three screws, then connect the connector. 3. Replace the blower resistor (see Figure 3): – Disconnect the Figure 3 HONDA connector. – Remove the two screws and the blower resistor. Install the new blower resistor with the two screws, then connect the connector. 4. Reinstall the passenger’s dashboard undercover by pushing the pins and the clips securely into place. Replace any damaged clips. Courtesy of ALLDATA ■ Circle #72 for Reader Service

Circle #73 for Reader Service

» Shop Spectra Premium has introduced a line extension to its Fuel Delivery category. Electrical and mechanical fuel pumps and fuel strainer solutions are now available along with the current offering of fuel pump assemblies. Offering 200 new part numbers, this extension provides coverage on more than 185 million registered vehicles (U.S. and Canada) for both earlier and late models, import and domestic applications. Installation instructions are included in every box.

95 Schaeffler Group USA and Litens have announced a joint advertising program aimed at educating the automotive aftermarket on the importance of replacing OE overrunning alternator pulleys and overrunning alternator decouplers with like products. The four-page insert included in this issue of Underhood Service features technical information regarding the differences between OAPs and OADs and common applications for each type of technology. The campaign promotes the availability of OAPs and OADs at selected distributors in the United States. For more information, visit Schaeffler-Aftermarket.us or decouplerpulley.com.

Circle #95 for information

Circle #97 for information

97 96

Get 5 quarts of Castrol GTX Conventional Motor Oil plus a NAPA Silver Oil Filter — on sale for $20.56 at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS Store this October. And don’t forget to watch Martin Truex Jr. and the #56 NAPA Car in their hunt for the Sprint Cup Series Championship! See participating stores for details.

TechSmart’s mission is to create an advanced line of engine control products to help today’s technicians find new and better ways to solve their customers’ issues. The Fall 2012 New Parts Guide contains 14 new categories such as headlight level sensors, wastegate frequency control valves, variable intake manifold actuators and HID headlight ballasts.

Circle #99 for information

Circle #96 for information

98 TRICO Ice, an all-new, winter weather blade, provides maximum performance in extreme winter driving environments. This blade style features a wedge-shaped spoiler that clears away snow and ice buildup. The new design conforms to glass shapes to distribute even pressure for a clear wipe, while the low-profile contour complements new vehicle models and maximizes line of sight. Teflon-infused rubber resists tearing and ripping in sub-zero temperatures to eliminate chatter for a smoother, quieter wipe. Currently offered in lengths of 16-28”. Visit tricoproducts.com/ice.

Circle #98 for information

74 October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

DIRECT CLASSIFIEDS

Transmissions/Parts Audi • BMW • Jaguar Range Rover Porsche Navigator • Saab • VW Authorized Distributor

Filters Valve Bodies Kits • Oils Hard Parts Manuals Torque Converters

ERIKSSON INDUSTRIES • 800-388-4418 Old Saybrook, CT • FAX 860-395-0047 • www.erikssonindustries.com

Used/New Automotive Equipment 1-800-223-2573 www.AllStates.com

DIRECT CLASSIFIEDS

AD INDEX Advertiser . . . . . . . . . .Page Number ACDelco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26, 27, 57 Advance Auto Parts Professional . .47 Airtex Corporation . . . . . . . . . . .43, 66 Atlas Copco Compressors LLC. . . . .41 Auto Value/Bumper to Bumper . . . .Cover 4 AutoZone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12, 13 Bartec USA, LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Bosch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 CARDONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 DEA Products/Pioneer Inc . . . . . . . .21 Delphi Products & Service Solutions . . . . .15 Federated Auto Parts . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Fel-Pro . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34, 35, 52, 53 Ford Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33,45 Hughes Engines, Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . .70 iATN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Jasper Engines & Transmissions . . . .63, 72 King Electronics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 MACS Worldwide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 MAHLE Clevite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Motorcraftservice.com . . . . . . . . . . .40 Mr Gasket Performance Group . . . .50 NAPA . . .Cover Card, Cover 2, 49, 67 NGK Spark Plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 O'Reilly Auto Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Why switch to PDQ? PRICES. Low prices. High Quality. Always. 1st time buyer? Order from this ad and receive these special prices.

Parts Master . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Parts Plus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Performance Friction . . . . . . . . . . . .73 Red Kap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Rislone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 Schaeffler Group USA . . . . . .9, Insert Sea Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 TechSmart/SMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Trico Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64, 65 TYC/Genera Corp. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Walker Products, Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . .61 WIX Filters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36, 37

76 October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

Call now to order or to receive a free 2012 catalog 1-800-434-5141 www.autobodysupplies.co m

DIRECT CLASSIFIEDS

Advertising Representatives The Tech Group Bobbie Adams badams@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 238 Dean Martin dmartin@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 225 Sean Donohue sdonohue@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 206 Glenn Warner gwarner@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 212 John Zick jzick@babcox.com 949-756-8835 List Sales Manager Don Hemming dhemming@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 286 Classified Sales Tom Staab tstaab@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 224

AUTO COMPUTERS ECM’s & MAF’s SAVE 70% If We Don’t Have It...It Doesn’t Exist

• 325,000 units in stock • All Foreign & Domestics • ECU’s & BCM’s • ABS & Airflow’s • Same Day Shipping • R & R Service • 1-Year Warranty • Free Tech Help on Web • Inhouse Reprogramming: GM, Ford, Jeep & Chrysler

Call Toll Free

1-UPS-OUR-ECMS (1-877-687-326 7 ) 570-883-9930 www.autoecms.com UnderhoodService.com 77

DIRECT CLASSIFIEDS

78 October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

DIRECT CLASSIFIEDS

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» Publisher’s Perspective

By Jim Merle | PUBLISHER

We Know You’re Busy... “Something has changed,” was a comment made by a colleague who stopped by my office recently. It took her a few minutes to realize I had rearranged my office furniture. You may have said the same thing when you read this issue of Underhood Service, beginning with our new, more vibrant logo, plus larger type size and bigger photos.

work each month to fulfill our promise to you by delivering compelling content, industry news, product information and messaging from our valued advertisers. Our plan to make the change, which began earlier this year, wrapped up in mid-September. We addressed every detail of our magazine by involving a

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“Something has changed”

We know you’re busy and understand we need to get to the point. That means fewer words and more photos to enhance the in-depth, technical under-the-hood subject matter that you count on with every issue of Underhood Service. We

October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

number of our team members across our organization. This redesign exercise reminded me of what an incredible, passionate and opinionated bunch we have under one roof. Our talented group of professionals, pictured below, includes our inspiring

graphic designers, smart and industry-engaged editors and supportive management team. Collectively, our aftermarket and publishing experience exceeds 175+ years, but that doesn’t mean much unless you are pleased with the results. But our project isn’t completed. We have exciting plans to bring interactive technology within our pages to connect you directly to video and ultra-cool graphics from your smart phone or tablet. All great stuff! Stay tuned! Please share your comments with me. It’s always nice to hear from you. — Jim jmerle@babcox.com 330-670-1234 ext. 280

Circle #84 for Reader Service