March 2013 by Babcox Media

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■ SEALING SUBARUS

■ THE GEOMETRY OF STEERING

■ PRESERVING LIBERTY

March 2013 TomorrowsTechnician.com

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CONTENTS IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII

THE REAL WORLD 8 Mastering Three-Stage Paints and Pearls Some painters dread three-stage paints and pearls, but there is a secret and a method of matching that works every time...and will reduce your comebacks. Capitalize on these tips from head painter Tom Ferry.

8 UNDER THE HOOD 10 Solving Subaru Sealing Problems As a shop owner who specializes in the repair of Japanese vehicles, John Volz shares some tips on Subaru engine service. In his article, Volz discusses one of the most common problems with these vehicles — head gasket failure.

10 UNDERCOVER 22 The Importance of Geometry in Steering Diagnostics Gary Goms highlights the three angles of steering — caster, camber and toe — and provides details on their importance to wheel alignment service.

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Report Card: A Look at the Ford Atlas Concept

Industry Insight: Fuel Pump Diagnostics

Service Advisor: Maintaining Liberty

TT Toolbox

NASCAR Performance: Black Boxes

Book Report: The Complete Book of Camaro

TT Crossword

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Tomorrowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Technician (ISSN 1539-9532) (March 2013, Volume 12, Issue 2): Published eight times a year by Babcox Media, 3550 Embassy Parkway, Akron, OH 44333 U.S.A. Complimentary subscriptions are available to qualified students and educators located at NATEF-certified automotive training institutions. Paid subscriptions are available for all others. Contact us at (330) 670-1234 to speak to a subscription services representative or FAX us at (330) 670-5335.

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In January during the North American International Auto Show (NAIAS) in Detroit, Ford unveiled its Atlas Concept to showcase the design, capability, fuel efficiency and smart technologies that will define future pickup trucks. “The Ford Atlas Concept previews the innovations that will transform what people expect from their pickup,” said Raj Nair, Ford group vice president, Global Product Development. Nair said the Ford Atlas Concept is inspired by decades of listening to customers at the places they work and play. The result is a purpose-driven design with prominent wheel arches, a wide stance and chiseled grille – all to reinforce its functional Built Ford Tough image. Designers enhanced truck functionality, while creating new advanced features. For example, multiple tie-down points are integrated within the cargo

box walls and load floor, along with 110-volt electrical outlets in the cargo box to charge power tools. An integrated roof carrying system and hidden extendable ramps give the truck unique functionality for a variety of jobs.

The interior is themed with structural styling cues and features the latest thinking in comfort, utility and refinement. Innovative, thin, lightweight seating in comfortable leather allows for extra legroom for rear passengers – along with integrated storage for smaller items. The Ford Atlas Concept features a next-generation EcoBoost powertrain, which introduces truckenhanced Auto Start-Stop engine shutoff technology. Auto Start-Stop shuts off the engine when stopped in traffic to save fuel – and suspends the feature when the truck knows it is towing. EcoBoost engines use gasoline direct injection and turbocharging to deliver fueleconomy gains of up to 20% and reduction of CO2

March 2013 | TomorrowsTechnician.com

emissions of up to 15%, compared with larger-displacement engines. The Ford Atlas Concept goes further to save fuel through a combination of active aerodynamic elements that reduce wind resistance. They include: Active Grille Shutters: Automatic shutters behind the grille stay open when extra engine cooling is needed, such as during low-speed stopand-go driving or while working in hot weather. The shutters automatically close to improve aerodynamics when cruising on the highway at steady speeds. Active Wheel Shutters: Automatic shutters in the wheels are hidden to improve style at rest and low speeds, but automatically close at highway speeds to improve aerodynamics. Self-charging batteries use energy from the wheels’ motion to power the shutters. Drop-Down Front Air Dam: A drop-down front wind spoiler lowers at highway speeds to improve underbody airflow. The air dam is raised at low speeds to improve ground clearance – helpful for offroading. For more on the Atlas Concept, visit www.tomorrowstechnician.com. ■

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Adapted from Tom Ferry’s article in

Three-Stage Paints and Pearls Some painters dread three-stage paints and pearls, but there is a secret and a method of matching that works every time..and will reduce your comebacks.

ome painters are so stumped by threestage paints and pearls that they dread them and end up painting the entire side of a car for just one panel. I’ve actually seen it happen! The secret to success is to add white or red or whatever color your three-stage is and add 7% solid basecoat to your first pearl coat. It still looks like a pearl coat, but you can actually blend it like a regular basecoat. You have to tweak things here and there, but that comes with experience.

Starting Out Photo 1 shows my first step with a Subaru Forester that I’m blending with a three-stage pearl white. We had taken the hood off this car during a repair a month prior, so when the car came back after another crash, I knew the hood would match. I start by using an old piece of 500 grit to sand through the clearcoat and pearl coat and down to the base white that’s actually on this

March 2013 | TomorrowsTechnician.com

Photo 1: How many panels would you include in the three-stage white pearl paint time for this job? Some of you would probably include the hood and rear quarter, but that’s unnecessary.

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and it’s dry, tape off the rear door. Now spray the driver’s door and front fender with white sealer, keeping it down where the gray primer is (Photo 3). Feather it out on the edges, keeping as far away from the hood as possible.

YOU CAN SEE HERE HOW CLOSE I KEEP THE PRIMER TO AREAS I’VE USED FILLER ON.

The Secret Now here’s the real blending secret for all three-stage paints: mix up your pearl coat, then pour off half into another cup. Take your base white and pour 7% of it into one of the two pearl cups. Now you have a semi-opaque white base with pearl in it. You should be able to then take off the paper from the door and spray two coats right over the white base area and allow the overspray to go onto the door and a little past the white base on the fender (Photo 3). Be patient. If the door doesn’t start blending in after three coats, you’ll need to add some more white base to your pearl. This is where practice makes perfect. Keep blending into the door and fender, going further and further by small, three-inch increments, keeping in mind that three coats equals nine inches of blend. This is how you create your blend: by adding white to your pearl base. And you still have the other half of your true pearl to spray. When your blend looks good,

car. You could also just work on where the base is featheredged by the dent you’re repairing. As we all know, there are several base white options to choose from. But with three-stage pearls, you can’t determine which white base to choose from – it’s all a guessing game. In this instance, there are three to choose from: a lighter one, a darker one and one that’s more yellow. I always go for the lighter-than-variance one. After I sand down to the factory white base, I use 1,000-grit and polish the area. Now you have the exact factory white base in front of you so there’s no need to guess. Then, I tint my light base using my own “progressive dot” method. (Note: To view Tom’s Progressive Dot Method technique, visit: http://bit.ly/YtUl0W) It started out too dark, so I kept adding white to lighten it up and let the dots dry until – bingo! – I got one that matches. Now I have the best match possible for the white base on the three-stage pearl white. In Photo 2, you can see I’m going to blend my white sealer, white base and pearl clearcoat in the small area of the front fender. There’s not much room, but it can be done. First, prep the entire Photo 3. I’ve put on white sealer and job and tape off. After coats of solid white base before startyou spray on your adheing to blend out my tinted pearl sion promoter over the base. areas to be blended

Photo 2. This photo shows where I start my white sealer. I tape the area so the sealer completely stays away from the top of the fender and the rear door. At this stage, I’ll take the paper off the door and put on a couple coats of solid base. switch to the pearl base. Start by fogging it, each coat going past the pearl-tinted-with-white base. If you don’t have a good blend with the white-tinted pearl base, it won’t work. The transition has to be seamless. I usually put on three to five coats of the final pearl coat, blending out further each time. There shouldn’t be a halo effect. After your blend looks good, paint on the clearcoat and you’re good to go. ■ Tom Ferry is the head painter at Ketchikan Autobody and Glass in Ketchikan, Alaska. He can be reached at tomferry@gci.net.

Photo 4. This is about 85 percent blended. Just a couple more coats of 100 percent pearl coat and it’s ready for clear. TomorrowsTechnician.com 9

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Adapted from John Volz’s article in

Solving

Sealing Problems

s a shop owner who specializes in the repair of Japanese vehicles, I thought I’d share some tips on Subarus. And hopefully one day, after serving in the automotive repair industry, you’ll be able to pass on some of your knowledge and vehicle repair experiences with the next generation of technicians.

Author John Volz is the owner of Volz Bros. Automotive Repair, Grass Valley, CA. I started my Subaru experience in 1979 working at a Subaru/Mazda dealership in Southern California. I can assure you that in 1979 Subaru was not the most sought after car by consumers. For example, we sold about 125 new Mazdas each month, but approximately only 10-15 Subarus per month. Fast-forward 34 years and it’s quite a different landscape for Subaru, which posted sales of almost 30,000 vehicles in May 2012, up 48% over the previous year’s number. Subarus, like many other nameplates, have common problems, one of which I’ll discuss in this article. Head gasket failure has been something Subaru has struggled with to some extent since the 1980s. There are many thoughts as to why head gasket failure on

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SUBARU EXCESSIVE A/C SYSTEM PRESSURES If you experience a vehicle with excessive A/C system pressures, rule out these quick and easy checks before making any component replacements. Verify that there are no obstructions to air flow through the condenser and/or radiator, and look in between them for debris, which may be easily overlooked. In addition, make sure to confirm that both the main and sub-fans are rotating in the proper direction and pulling air through the condenser and radiator toward the engine. If there were previous repairs that required removal of the fans, the wiring in the connectors may have become swapped during re-assembly, especially if the fan motor harness connectors didn’t come apart easily. There have been cases where this simple check was overlooked, resulting in unnecessary repairs. Courtesy of Mitchell 1.

for the repairs for some Subaru owners, the program has pretty much gone by the wayside at this point. The head gasket failures are found in a couple of different configurations, the most common of which is the external oil leaks at the back of the cylinder head, generally most prevalent on the left head or driver’s side. The second type is the external coolant leak, the coolant leak most common on the driver’s side, as well. Generally, it starts with the oil leaks, then progresses to the coolant leaking, too. I consider the oil leaks to be of concern, but when we see coolant leaking, the need for repair is more urgent. We generally inspect the heads for the leaks, and then discuss with our customer the severity of the leaks. In many cases, you can monitor the leaks for a period of time before the repairs are classified necessary or urgent. The final type of failure is the internal gasket failure that will produce the classic coolant loss and overheating. We see many shops try a variety of repairs, including

thermostat, radiator and water pump replacement, only to leave the customer with money spent on repair bills that didn’t solve the problem. The best way to check for an internal head gasket failure on a Subaru is to check for hydrocarbons in the cooling system. You can carefully insert the probe from your smog machine in the radiator (don’t let the coolant touch the probe). The reading will be more accurate with the engine fully warmed up. If the HC levels are above 10 ppm, the head gaskets are leaking internally into the cooling system. Subaru changed the design of its head gaskets around 2003, and designed its own coolant and special additive to help with the problem. The final topic I would like to discuss before we get into the repair is cost and how to approach the job. We’ve performed this repair more than 400 times, and although each job is unique, the cost for this job varies, depending on how the job is approached and the area of the country where the job is being done. I’ve heard

Subaru has continued. My theory is that there is a horizontally opposed engine with an aluminum block and aluminum cylinder heads, two metals that tend to move around more than the traditional cast-iron block and aluminum heads found on most Japanese cars. A poorly designed head gasket material also fuels the problem. There are some other issues that relate to premature head gasket failure. Excessive corrosion has led Subaru to add more ground straps to the car on the later models. The discovery of voltage in the cooling system is believed to contribute to gaskets getting corroded and failing. Although Subaru did have a service campaign that helped pay TomorrowsTechnician.com 11

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quotes of $1,200–$3,200. I also hear people trying to do the repair without taking the engine out of the car, which, in my opinion, is not the correct way. (We will discuss the reasons as we proceed with the repair.)

and most likely the repairs were done without taking the engine out with probably only one head gasket being replaced. To complete the repair, follow these steps: 1. Disconnect and remove the battery (this allows for a proper

“What’s the best way to efficiently repair the vehicle so the job will last?” I would guess that 20% of the head gasket jobs we perform were done at another shop not that long ago — long enough to get out of warranty, but not long enough to warrant the cost of the “discounted repair.” We also see many shops, including the dealer, try to just repair one side, only to have the other side fail within a few months. The other issues we see are when the customer gets the head gasket replaced, only to have other seals leak soon afterward, that should have been replaced in the first place. This repair should not be approached with the mindset of “how cheap can it be done?” but rather, “what’s the best way to efficiently repair the vehicle so the job will last?” and “let’s deal with all possible issues that are somewhat related at the same time.” That said, most jobs require head gaskets, a water pump, a timing belt, drive belts, thermostat, idler pulleys, a timing belt tensioner, tune-related parts and machine shop cost. In our area, $2,220–$2,500 is the normal price range.

cleaning of the battery box), drain all fluids and remove four exhaust flange bolts. I generally take the whole front pipe off the car. This allows for better clearance and reduces the chance of damaging the oxygen sensor wires.

“Let’s deal with all possible issues that are somewhat related at the same time.”

Digging Into the Job The Subaru is a 2002 Outback with 109,982 miles. It has excessive oil leaks from the driver’s side head gasket and some from the passenger’s side. The vehicle had been repaired under warranty by the dealer at about 65,000 miles,

2. Remove the lower bell-housing bolts and motor mount bolts. Lower the car back down and remove the radiator, leaving the fans connected. Remove the air filter box and all intake boots. 3. Remove the upper bell-housing bolts, torque the convertor bolts (auto trans.) and disconnect the two-wire harness plugs on the passenger’s side. On the driver’s side, remove the heater hoses, disconnect the two fuel hoses and remove the evap hose. 4. From the front of the engine, disconnect the A/C compressor from the mount and carefully hang it near the battery box. Remove the alternator completely from the car, remove the P/S pump from the

Photo 1

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Photo 2 mount, leave the hoses connected and hang them on the passenger’s side. See Photo 1 and Photo 2. The engine can generally be out of the car in about 30-40 minutes. See Photo 3. 5. Remove the intake manifold, timing covers, timing belt and valve cover gaskets. Clean all the debris from the exterior of the block before removing the cylinder heads. See Photo 4. 6. Remove the cylinder heads, and spend time to properly clean them and check them for warping or pitting. I Photo 3 can’t stress

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enough the importance of this phase — the surface needs to be thoroughly cleaned. Many shops or dealerships use a “wheel” to clean the surface. This may be acceptable on some vehicles, but with the head

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Photo 4 gasket issue being so commonplace on Subarus, my opinion is that the leftover swirl marks can affect the integrity of the head gasket’s ability to seal once it’s reassembled. We’ve noticed on the vehicles on which we’re replacing gaskets that were previously done at another shop that they tend to have the swirl marks on both the block and the cylinder heads. I don’t suspect that the swirls will cause an immediate failure, but, over time, they can contribute to premature failure.

Photo 5

7. Use a razor blade to take the larger pieces of the old gasket off, then use a sanding block to remove the remaining debris to get a clean surface. We start with 220-grit, then we progress to 400 and 600 for the final cleanup. We use 0.002” as the criteria for remachining. I also consider if the heads have been off before and if there are swirl marks from using the wheel, I generally re-machine the heads even though there may not be any significant warpage. This step will add some time since you’ll need to send it to the machine shop. Our local auto parts store’s machine shop provides a turnaround time of about an hour on a pair of Subaru heads for remachining. 8. While the heads are at the machine shop, we focus on the block surface, using the block sander starting with 220-grit as stated earlier, and finishing with the 600-grit. Begin the task

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of working the surface to remove all dirt and leftover gasket material, taking your time to get the surface as clean as possible. This is also a good time to clean the engine cross-member, where much of the oil accumulates. Also, don’t forget the plastic gravel shield — another area for oil to accumulate. 9. Next, we focus on the front of the engine. Remove the oil pump and re-seal it, and replace the front crank seal. 10. Once the cylinder heads are back from the

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machine shop (see Photo 5), install them with the new head gaskets, and install new cam seals. Follow the head torque sequence. (Note: 2005 and later models may require new head bolts.)

11. Check the front idler pulleys for roughness. There is one cogged pulley and two smooth pulleys. If the bearings feel rough, I would replace them. We see quite a few cars come in that had the head gaskets replaced develop a bearing noise in the front engine area. It’s a lot more affordable to replace them while the engine is apart. 12. Inspect the tensioner. You’ll generally see some wetness near the hydraulic area; replace it while it’s all apart. 13. Install the new water pump, thermostat and timing belt. The timing belt interval on this generation Subaru is 105,000 miles, so if it’s anywhere close to its cycle, change it. Then re-install the timing covers and closely inspect the rubber seals. If any oil has leaked from the oil pump area, chances are the seals will be swollen and won’t fit properly. Note: We also check the PCV system to make sure all hoses are sealing and are clear. Also be sure to install new spark plugs (many will require new plug wires if they’ve been contaminated with oil). 14. It’s now time to re-install the engine. See Photo 6. Once it’s installed, add fluids, and then unplug the coil wire and crank the engine until you have oil pressure. After you have oil pressure, connect the coil wire and start the car. With the battery being disconnected, the computer will need to go through re-learn. We’ve found that if you let the car idle, it will accomplish this much faster, generally in 5-10 minutes. Avoid touching the throttle to help the process. While the car is going through relearn, wait for the fans to cycle. There are two areas to closely inspect. One is the power steering pump O-ring where the reservoir hose connects to the pump. Movement from removing the engine

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Check Your Work

Photo 6 can cause the fitting to start leaking soon after the repair. I generally replace the O-ring while the engine is being re-installed. The other area to inspect is where the A/C lines connect to the compressor, which is also subject to leaking after the repair. We generally evacuate, replace O-rings and recharge with dye as part of our job.

Once the car is warmed up and all fluids have been topped up, I take the car on a road test of about 25 miles. This generally ensures that the monitors have all run and that any issues can be identified before the car is returned to the customer. Part of the road test includes a trip to the car wash. The car is then brought back to the shop, where the inside of the front window is washed and the car is vacuumed. The car is then allowed to cool down for one last fluid check, and we then check for any software updates from Subaru and re-flash with our factory tool. Living in a rural area that receives snow in the winter months, Subaru is the choice of many car owners in our area. With Subaru owners being loyal to the brand, having the skills to repair their cars right the first time will also build a loyal customer following â&#x20AC;&#x201D; no matter if you work in an independent repair shop or a dealership. â&#x2013; Opening art courtesy of CarGurus.com.

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Scan with a Plan

Fuel Pump Diagnostics Using a Scan Tool By Andrew Markel, editor of

he most common diagnostic procedures for fuel pumps in the past were analog and hands on. Most fuel pumprelated problems could be solved with a pressure gauge and voltmeter. Today, the scan tool is the most important tool when diagnosing a fuel supply problem. On early vehicles, the fuel pump was energized when the key was turned on and a vacuum-operated diaphragm regulated fuel pressure. Today, input from at least two modules and various sensors that are networked on a highspeed serial data bus is required for a fuel pump to operate. While this may sound like it would complicate the diagnostic process, it actually simplifies diagnostics and can save you from unnecessarily dropping a fuel tank. With a scan tool, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s possible to verify if the modules controlling the fuel pump are receiving the correct data like oil pressure, crank position and key position. Some late-model vehicles have even turned the fuel pump into its own module or node on the high-speed serial data bus. The module may share data like the fuel level and tank pressure with the instrument cluster module and the ECM. What this also means is that this data can be monitored with a scan tool. If the serial data bus is unable to communicate with certain modules like the theft deterrent system or even the Body Control Module (BCM), it could cause the fuel pump to shut down. Most late-model vehicles have return-less fuel systems. Instead of using engine vacuum to a pressure regulator under the hood, the system uses engine data and varies the speed of

March 2013 | TomorrowsTechnician.com

the pump to meet fuel requirements. The pump is energized with pulse-width modulated voltage. This means that if you connect your voltmeter to the fuel pump circuit, the readings will bounce around instead of being a constant voltage. A scope is required to graph the amperage and voltage. These systems have different modes for start, acceleration, deceleration and fuel cut off. On some vehicles, these modes can be observed on an enhanced or factory scan tool as part of the Mode 6 Data.

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Performing Diagnostics The most common customer complaints when it comes to fuel pumps are a no-start condition, intermittent no-start condition or even hard starting. The first step in any diagnostic process is to perform a visual inspection of the vehicle. Next, verify the customer’s complaint. Many diagnoses go wrong because the technician fails to verify the customer’s concern. If the customer says it does not run, make sure it will not start and run. Forget your “noid” lights on most modern vehicles. This low-cost tool worked well on simple vehicles, but with modern vehicles it can lead you down a diagnostic black hole. If the vehicle has Gasoline Direct Injection (GDI), there is no way you could even access the injectors to install a noid light. If you do feel compelled to prove the injectors are pulsing, try using a scope. Forget the fuel pressure gauge at this point in the diagnostic process. Even if there is pressure at the fuel rail, this information is of little use on newer vehicles without having access to the parameters. Some port fuel injection systems and all GDI systems have pressure sensors that can be observed with a scan tool. Also, GDI-equipped Asian and European models do not have ports to attach the gauge. After the visual inspection and verifying the customer’s complaint, it’s time to connect the scan tool. First, pull the codes and make sure the modules are communicating on their communication buses. Some low-end generic tools may not be able to talk to all the modules. This is where an enhanced or factory scan tool comes into its own. Many enhanced or factory scan tools can perform a “health check” that can pull codes and parameters from the modules on the vehicle with just one press or click. Some scan tools have automated tests that can bi-directionally control components to automatically confirm operation.

On the Volkswagen 3.0L V6 TFSI engine, the pressure from the high-pressure fuel pump is monitored by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) through a sensor and can be modulated by changing the volume of fuel entering the pump inlet. While specific pressures vary among different vehicle applications, most high-pressure pumps are capable of producing at least 2,000 psi of fuel pressure. With the codes pulled, you can come up with diagnostic strategies and further tests to resolve the no-start condition. Service information is just as critical of a tool as a pressure gauge. Every fuel system has a set of parameters that must be set in order for the pump to be energized. For some systems, this may include a crank sensor signal, oil pressure and maybe a check with the vehicle theft deterrent module. If the vehicle has any “loss of communication” codes like U1000, resolve those problems first before diagnosing or replacing the fuel pump. While these codes may seem like they have nothing to do with the fuel pump, often a dead module or short in the serial bus can result in a no-start condition. After you’ve performed the checks with your scan tool and have confirmed with the service information that it could be the fuel pump causing the no-start condition, you can carry out the physical tests to confirm the condition of the fuel pump. ■ Go to www.underhoodservice.com and use the search function to obtain more fuel-system-related technical articles.

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Adapted from Gary Goms’ article in

The of

hen many of your shop instructors like me started our careers in the wheel alignment trade, we inevitably experienced a vehicle that would come back with steering quality complaints or unevenly worn tires after having had the caster, camber and toe angle adjusted to specification. Tire casing problems aside, the fault would nearly always be found in defective steering geometry caused by a bent steering knuckle assembly. Bent steering knuckle assemblies are easy to ignore simply because they do require extra time and effort to measure and evaluate in today’s fast-paced undercar service market. Nevertheless, the symptoms of bent steering knuckles are easy to spot, especially if we do a thorough pre-alignment inspection.

THREE ANGLES OF STEERING Let’s begin with a recap of caster, camber and toe angles. Positive caster angle is best illustrated by the rearward tilt of the steering fork on a bicycle. Positive caster obviously places the front wheel ahead of its pivot point and most vehicles are designed with positive caster angle. In contrast, negative caster angle is best illustrated by the casters on a rolling toolbox trailing their pivot points. When weight is applied to the two front wheels of a vehicle, positive or negative caster forces the front wheels to a centered position. Caster angle, therefore, helps reduce steering wander or the need to constantly steer the vehicle. Camber is the vertical position of the wheels in relation to the road surface. Negative camber results when the tops of the two front wheels tilt inward toward the chassis centerline. Positive camber results when the tops of the wheels tilt outward from the chassis

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centerline. Positive camber works in conjunction with king pin or steering axis inclination (SAI) to reduce steering effort. On older vehicles with individually replaceable wheel bearings, positive camber places the vehicle weight squarely on the larger inner wheel bearing. Toe is the most critical tire-wearing angle. Wheels pointed inward from the centerline are “toed” in, wheels pointed outward from centerline are “toed” out. A slight amount of toe-in is required to prevent the front wheels from following ruts or contours in the road. Slight amounts of toe-in also compensate for flexing and wear in the tie rods and tie rod ends, as well as for minor changes in suspension height and geometry.

in SAI AND STEERING RADIUS Two steering geometry angles, SAI and steering radius, are built into the steering knuckle and are, therefore, non-adjustable. In the real world, defects in SAI and steering radius often go unnoticed if the vehicle is driven primarily on four-lane, interstate-style highways. On the other hand, if the vehicle is primarily driven through many turns on city streets, defects in SAI and steering radius might show up immediately. The upper ball joint or strut support bearing on a front suspension is closer to the chassis centerline than the lower ball joint. An imaginary line drawn through the upper strut support bearing or ball joint and lower ball joint should theoretically intersect with the centerline of the tire at the point of road contact. See Photo 1. SAI consequently allows the wheel to pivot on its centerline. If the SAI is incorrect, the tires begin to swing in a radius around this theoretical pivot point. Incorrect SAI caused by bent struts, bent spindles or excessively offset wheels will result in

Photo 1: SAI is easy to understand if an imaginary line is drawn through the upper and lower ball joints on this fourwheel-drive front axle. TomorrowsTechnician.com 23

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greater steering effort and accelerated suspension system wear. See Photo 2. SAI also tends to return the front wheels to center because, when combined with caster angle, SAI tends to apply more weight on the inside front wheel by lifting the chassis an inch or two. At center, SAI acts in combination with the caster angle to reach equilibrium on both wheels. Again, SAI combines with caster angle to reduce steering wander. Last, SAI and caster angle generally increase the positive camber angle of the inside tire and decreases positive camber angle of the outside tire during a turn. This camber change counteracts the tendency of the tire tread to lift from the road surface during a turn.

Photo 2: Although this suspension is essentially a â&#x20AC;&#x153;coil-overâ&#x20AC;? design, it still follows the same rules of steering geometry design.

THE ACKERMAN EFFECT Because the inside wheel turns through a shorter radius than the outside wheel, the steering system must change from toe-in to toe-out to reduce tire scrub when navigating a sharp corner. The portion of steering knuckle responsible for turning the inner wheel through a sharper turning radius is the steering arm, which connects the tie rod end to the steering

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knuckle. See Photos 3 and 4. The angle of the steering arm intersects the vehicle centerline at approximately the length of the vehicle’s wheelbase. The angle of the steering arms allows the rear wheels to track more closely with the front when turning a corner. The actual process of going from toe-in (or toe zero) to toe-out when navigating a turn is known as the Ackerman Effect, which causes the inner front wheel to toe out about two degrees more than the outer front wheel on a 20-degree turning radius. See Photo 5. The Ackerman Effect, like most alignment angles, is always a compromise between different driving conditions. A NASCAR car, for example, might have very little Ackerman angle because the car is driven through long, sweeping curves, often at a slight drift angle. In this case, two degrees of Ackerman would increase tire wear and negatively affect the driver’s control of the vehicle. Most NASCAR vehicles feature a slotted steering arm that allows Ackerman angle to be adjusted on each steering arm to meet track conditions. At the other extreme, a metro-

Photo 3: An imaginary line drawn from the center of the rear axle through the tie rod end should closely intersect with the steering knuckle pivot point. Photo 5: The Ackerman Effect becomes very apparent once the vehicle is placed on a lift with the front wheels turned to full lock.

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Photo 4: The angle of the steering arm on front-steer vehicles should intersect with the vehicle centerline in front of the vehicle at about the length of the vehicle’s wheelbase.

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NASCAR vehicles require little Ackerman angle due to long, sweeping curves on a track. area delivery van steering around 90degree street corners and into very confined turn-around areas would need at least two degrees differential in Ackerman angle to make precise turns and reduce front tire wear. If our prototype delivery van didn’t have a sufficient Ackerman angle, the vehicle would tend to “push” going around a sharp corner, which would result in poor steering response and accelerated tire wear.

GETTING TIRED While space doesn’t allow a complete discussion of tire wear diagnostics, keep in mind that the old biasply designs of the ’60s produced very high rolling friction and were very sensitive to incorrect camber and toe angles. The bias-ply belted tires of the 1970s and ’80s were improved designs, but often produced inner rib wear and other tire wear anomalies when mated with steering geometries designed for bias-ply tires. Current passenger tire designs generally use a very flexible sidewall and firm tread belt. Flexible sidewalls tend to make the tire less sensitive to the negative camber and high caster angles used in modern steering geometries. Negative camber angles are used in modern steering geometry

because they greatly increase the tread contact pattern at high cornering speeds. Increased caster angle complements this effect and, thus, improves steering quality and response. Because modern suspension systems are more stable and produce much less toe variation in response to changes in suspension height, toe angles themselves have been reduced in most cases. Always inspect tire pressure before road testing, as well as the tires for matching casing design, size and tread pattern. Test for loose steering components by rocking the steering wheel key-on, engine off. Badly worn steering shaft couplers and tie rod ends will generally make a knocking sound. The steering should be checked hands-off when starting the engine. If the steering wheel rocks as the engine starts, the pressure metering system in the power steering gear might be defective. Next, turn the steering wheel lockto-lock several times with the engine running. The steering response should be smooth and noise-free. The vehicle’s side-to-side ride height should also change equally. If it doesn’t, suspect a bent steering knuckle or strut. Once moving, lightly tap the brake pedal to ensure that the brake calipers are releasing correctly. If a

KEY WORDS AND PHRASES

After reading this article, you should be able to define the following: Ackerman Effect Camber Caster SAI Toe Turning Radius

28 March 2013 | TomorrowsTechnician.com

Photo 6: Notice that the inner tread rib of this tire isn’t contacting the floor. The wear on the inner rib could be caused by excessive negative camber or toe angle. momentary steering pull develops, it’s likely that a caliper is sticking. See Photo 6. If a large parking lot is available, turn the vehicle in a full-lock position in both directions. If the steering geometry is correct, the turning radius should be nearly equal in both directions. If the vehicle fails this test, a thorough diagnosis of this fault should be done on a modern, fourpoint alignment machine. Keep in mind that not only SAI and steering radius angles should be correct, but the side-to-side wheel offsets should be correct and the thrust line of the rear axle should align correctly with vehicle centerline. Only when all dimensions and alignment angles are correct will the tires wear evenly and the vehicle steer correctly. ■

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n 2002, the Jeep Liberty was the first Jeep to use the two new Chrysler-developed Power-Tech engines — the 2.4L straight-4, (which was eliminated in 2006), and the 210 hp 3.7L V6. The 2.4L I4 PowerTech is a Neon engine variant based on the Chrysler engine that was designed originally for the Dodge and Plymouth Neon compact car. The naturally aspirated 2.4L 4-cylinder PowerTech engine provided 150 hp (110 kW) and 165 lb.-ft. (224 Nm). In its short life, the engine was available in the 2002-’06 Jeep Liberty (first generation), as well as the 2004-’06 Jeep Wrangler, but was discontinued when Jeep introduced the Compass and Patriot small crossovers. While those two crossovers also received a 2.4L I4 as a base engine, these were of the Global Engine Manufacturing Alliance (GEMA) joint-venture engine architecture and should not be confused with the Neon/ PowerTech engine of the same displacement.

March 2013 | TomorrowsTechnician.com

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Although the 2.4L PowerTech engine was only available for a relatively short time, the engine is considered very reliable with no major problems associated with it.

2.4L PowerTech I4 Specs The 2.4L PowerTech is a double overhead camshaft with hydraulic lifters and four valves per cylinder design. The engine is free-wheeling, meaning it has provisions for piston-to-valve clearance. However, valve-to-valve interference can occur if the camshafts are rotated independently. Displacement: 144.0 CID (2,360 cc) Stroke: 3.82â&#x20AC;? (97 mm) Bore: 3.46â&#x20AC;? (88 mm) Power: 150 hp (110 kW)

Getting Your Timing Down Recommended timing belt replacement for the PowerTech

2.4L engine used in the Jeep Liberty/Wrangler is 120,000 miles. So, if you are seeing some of these vehicles in the workplace with that kind of mileage, it might be a good idea to talk to your customer on scheduling a timing belt replacement. The following steps provide information on removal and replacement of the 2.4L I4 timing belt.

Steps for Timing Belt Replacement 1. Remove the air cleaner upper cover, housing and clean air tube. 2. Raise the vehicle Figure 1 on a hoist. 3. Remove the accessory drive belts. 4. Remove the crankshaft vibration dampener. 5. Remove the air conditioner/generator belt tensioner and pulley assembly.

Caution: When aligning crankshaft and camshaft timing marks, always rotate the engine from the crankshaft. The camshaft should not be rotated after the timing belt is removed because damage to the valve components could occur. And, always align the timing marks before removing the timing belt.

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6. Remove the timing belt lower front cover bolts and the cover. 7. Lower the vehicle. 8. Remove the bolts attaching the timing belt upper front cover and remove that cover.

Note: For more on removing components mentioned in steps 48, refer to a 2003 Chrysler Service Guide. 9. Before removal of the timing belt, rotate the crankshaft until the TDC mark on the oil pump housing aligns with the TDC mark on the crankshaft sprocket (trailing edge of sprocket tooth). See Figure 1. Note: The crankshaft sprocket TDC mark is located on the trailing edge of the sprocket tooth. Failure to align the trailing edge of the sprocket tooth to the TDC mark on the oil pump housing will cause the camshaft timing marks to be misaligned. 10. Install a 6 mm Allen wrench

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into the belt tensioner. Before rotating the tensioner, insert the long end of a 1/8â&#x20AC;? or 3 mm Allen wrench into the pinhole on the front of the tensioner. See Figure 2. While rotating the tensioner clockwise, push in lightly on the tool until it slides into the locking hole. 11. Remove the timing belt.

Timing Belt Installation

Figure 2

1. Set the crankshaft sprocket to TDC by aligning the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing. 2. Set the crankshaft timing marks so that the exhaust camshaft sprocket is half of a notch below the intake camshaft sprocket. 3. Install the timing belt. Starting at the crankshaft, go around the water pump sprocket, idler pulley and camshaft sprockets and then around the tensioner. 4. Move the exhaust camshaft sprocket counterclockwise to align the marks and to take up belt slack. 5. Insert a 6 mm Allen wrench into the hexagon

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opening located on the top plate of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top plate counterclockwise. The tensioner pulley will move against the belt and the tensioner setting notch will eventually start to move clockwise. Watching the movement of the setting notch, continue rotating the top plate counterclockwise until the setting notch is aligned with the spring tang. Using the Allen wrench to prevent the top plate from moving, torque the tensioner lock nut to 22 ft.-lbs. (30 Nm). The setting notch and spring tang should remain aligned after the lock nut is torqued.

Note: Repositioning the crankshaft to the TDC position must be done only during the clockwise rotation movement. If TDC is missed, rotate a further two revolutions until TDC is achieved. Do not rotate crankshaft counterclockwise as this will make verification of proper tensioner setting impossible.

Figure 3

Camshaft Bearing Cap Identification

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The latest bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a 2.4L engine built between Feb. 1, 2004 and April 5, 2005. Whenever re-torqueing the cylinder head bolt(s), be sure to follow the torque sequence as outlined below. If there are no external signs of damage to any parts,

attempt the procedure below before replacing a cylinder head, cylinder head bolts or cylinder head gasket. 1. Using a 6â&#x20AC;? wobble plus extension friction ball and shallow socket, and following the torque sequence, loosen one bolt at a time to 0 torque and then torque

Camshaft Bearing Cap 6. Remove the Allen wrench and torque wrench. 7. Once the timing belt has been installed and the tensioner adjusted, rotate the crankshaft clockwise two complete revolutions manually for seating the belt, until the crankshaft is repositioned at the TDC position. Verify that the crankshaft and the crankshaft timing marks are in proper position. 8. Check to see if the spring tang is within the tolerance window. If so, the installation process is complete and nothing further is required. If the spring tang is not within the tolerance window, repeat steps 5 through 7. 9. Install the timing belt front covers and bolts. 10. Install the air conditioning/ generator belt tensioner and pulley. 11. Install the crankshaft vibration dampener. 12. Install the accessory drive belts. 13. Install the drive belt splash shield. 14. Install the air cleaner housing, upper cover and clean air tube.

Other Liberty Issues In 2008, Chrysler revised its 2.4L cylinder head bolt re-torque procedure. The information supersedes the previous technical bulletin, dated March 25, 2005. The previous bulletin should be removed from your files.

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that same head bolt to 60 ft.-lbs. See Figure 3. 2. Repeat step 4 for every head bolt, one bolt at a time in sequence. 3. Verify that each head bolt is at 60 ft.-lbs. before performing the next steps. 4. After all the head bolts have been verified to be torqued to 60 ft.-lbs., follow the torque sequence and turn the head bolts an additional 90° (1/4 turn). 5. Following the appropriate procedures to install the cylinder head cover. Some of the technical information above was provided by the Automotive Parts Remanufacturers Association (APRA). More information and technical bulletins on vehicles equipped with a 150-hp 4-cylinder engine are available through APRA; call 703-968-2772 or visit www.AutoBulletins.com.

Transmission Progress In 2005, the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Wrangler were upgraded with a NSG 370 six-speed manual transmission, replacing two fivespeed manual transmissions previously used in these applications — the NV1500 and the NV3550 — in an effort to reduce cost and complexity. The new transmission is a

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member of the six-speed NSG 370 family, similar to the one used in the Chrysler Crossfire — the first six-speed for the Chrysler brand. The NSG six-speed manual transmission provides a 4.46:1 first-gear ratio, versus the 3.85:1 and 4.04:1 ratios of the fivespeed transmissions it replaces, for improved launch and traction. Jeep said that the NSG 370 six-speed manual transmission provides optimal shift quality, improved quietness and high quality. A new dual-ratio transmission shift-tower system allows packaging of the six-speed shift pattern within the existing Jeep vehicles, and it is tuned for optimized shift quality. For smooth operation, the first and second gears have triple-cone synchronization, the third and fourth gears feature double-cone, and the fifth and sixth gears single-cone synchronization. Chrysler engineers also said the hard-finished gears allow for quiet operation, and the twopiece aluminum case with integrated clutch housing assures powertrain stiffness and light weight. The new first-gear ratio, combined with six-speed step spread, allows optimization of axle ratios for fuel economy and performance. ■ Source: Chrysler Group LLC.

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Power up with www.TomorrowsTechnician.com Tomorrow’s Technician delivers to you more technical and scholastic content than ever before. We’ve designed our website to make it easier to search content on more than 300 technical and educational articles and more than 100 studentrelated columns and news briefs to help you stay informed on repairing today’s and tomorrow’s vehicles.

Go to www.TomorrowsTechnician.com to download valuable content and technical papers, watch instructional videos and view updated industry news, blogs, commentary, scholarship information and promotions. Follow Tomorrow’s Technician m agazine at: http://www.Facebook.com/TomorrowsTechnicianMag

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Tt Toolbox Smartphone as a Tool? App-solutely! Are you using your smartphone as a tool in the auto lab? The applications that have been developed specifically for the automotive repair industry are incredible. Not only can techs take photos of repairs to help explain a diagnosis to a customer, you can also view live engine data, retrieve fault codes and clear check engine lights. There are apps that will help you find the correct parts and tools, decipher diagnostic trouble codes and conveniently find technical service bulletins. Check out some of the latest auto apps for your smartphone at http://bit.ly/Vf9nwW

Heavy-Duty Air Tools Campbell Hausfeld expands its CH Commercial program with 23 heavy-duty air tools to complement its existing CH Commercial compressed air lines. The CH Commercial air tools include: impact wrenches, air ratchets, a rivet tool, grinders, tire buffer, sanders, drills, screwdriver, air hammer, reciprocating saw and needle scalers. www.campbellhausfeld.com

Checking the CEL The new line of professional-grade handheld diagnostic tools, marketed under the Innova Pro CarScan name, is a series of tools from Equus Products that help technicians efficiently and effectively diagnose and repair “check engine” problems on 1981 to current vehicles; and troubleshoot ABS and SRS problems on newer model OBD II vehicles. www.equus.com

Pulling Pulleys The Alternator Decoupler Pulley Tool Kit (57650) from Lisle Corp. is a five-piece kit for removing and installing many alternator decoupler pulleys on the most popular vehicles in North America. The kit works on both OAD (Overrunning Alternator Decoupler) and OWC (One-Way Clutch) pulleys. And the tools can be used while the alternator is on or off the vehicle. www.lislecorp.com

Shedding Light OTC, a division of Service Solutions, LLC, has announced a family of waterproof-grade LED work lights equipped with a Lithium-Ion (Li-Ion) battery designed for making the technician’s work environment safer and more productive. Each light within the Spectrum series provides 50,000 hours of light and is equipped with a hang hook, magnetic base, pivoting body, face light and a top light. www.otctools.com

For the latest tool information, products and articles on tools and equipment, check out www.techshopmag.com.

March 2013 | TomorrowsTechnician.com

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Track Talk Inside NASCAR’s Black Box In 1992, General Motors was looking for ways to decrease the number of lower leg injuries to their Indy Car drivers. In their research, they were lacking one piece of technology to help them do this: a way to measure the force drivers were subjected to in crashes. They did, however, have a device placed in shipments of expensive equipment going oversees to determine how the cargo was being handled, and track when it was mishandled and by whom. With a few tweaks, such as an increased range of measurement, the company realized these devices could be placed in cars to measure the impact of a crash. That was the beginning of the Incident Data Recorder (IDR), or “black box,” in automobile racing. Today, NASCAR supplies each of the cars in its three national racing series with an

updated version of that recorder. In the event of a crash, big or small, NASCAR officials are able to retrieve the data and details of the crash, including the rate of deceleration when the car hits a barrier. According to Tom Gideon, senior director of safety, research and development for NASCAR, the incident data recorder has not failed to collect information on a crash yet. “From 2002 to now, we’ve recorded over 6,000 incidents in the national series,” he said. “All the vehicles in our national series — which include NASCAR Sprint Cup, Nationwide and Camping World Series racecars and trucks — are required to have a crash recorder.” Since 2002, the accident data recorders have ridden along with NASCAR drivers. Teams are responsible only for the aluminum bracket

that holds the recorder into place in that car. Before each race, a team of field investigators During a race, the “black box” measures the accelplaces a recorder into eration or deceleration of a race car 10,000 times per second. that bracket. Once a magnetic sensor or repaired. inside the box detects it’s NASCAR also uses these been placed into the car, it devices to re-enact actual goes into a state of readiness. crashes to improve safety and Because the units don’t have to test new developments. an on/off switch, the magnet Technicians are able to take sensor helps to preserve the the numbers from a wreck battery when they aren’t in a and, using a hydraulic cylincar. During a race, the device der and dummy model, exammeasures the acceleration or ine the effects on the body of deceleration of the car 10,000 that identical force. They’ve times per second. NASCAR even used these data recorders officials remove the IDRs from to test the Generation-6 car’s the car after each race, recordimproved roll cage by capturing information from those in ing the impact when a car is cars involved in wrecks. dropped upside down in the Once NASCAR extracts the Research and Development data from a crash, the numbers Center parking lot. are then released to the team “We’re at all times looking whose car held the recorder. for improvements to the car Teams use this that we can validate, so that information to when we finally put it in the determine how car, we’re not worried that hard the car was maybe we did something hit, and whether wrong,” Gideon said. the impact was Learn more about the latbig enough to est technological advances in cause damage to NASCAR by visiting the new the seat and NASCAR Automotive restraints. If so, Technology Center the seat — Engineered By Mobil 1: which can cost www.nascar.com/automoup to $12,000 tivetechnology — will be fully inspected before By Kristen Boghosian, being replaced NASCAR.COM

An incident data recorder, also known as a “black box,” gives NASCAR officials the ability to measure the effects of crashes.

Follow NASCAR Performance on Twitter and Facebook www.twitter.com/NASCARauto www.facebook.com/NASCARPerformance

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The Complete Book of Camaro This is a Camaro book like no other. The Complete Book of Camaro covers the entire production history of Chevrolet’s iconic pony car, from the original concept car, code-named Panther, to the latest and greatest fifth-generation sensation. The Complete Book of Camaro showcases in photos, text and technical specifications every model since 1967. If Chevrolet built it, it is here. This lavishly illustrated book, weighing nearly four lbs., details all five generations of the Camaro’s production run: the original models developed to fight the Mustang in the pony car wars of the late 1960s; the second-generation cars that became icons of American automotive styling in the 1970s; the third-gen cars that helped to lead the muscle car renaissance of the 1980s; the refined fourth-generation models that continued to demonstrate GM’s engineering prowess through the 1990s; and finally, the blockbuster new fifth-generation Camaro that has taken the world by storm. Muscle car enthusiasts and auto historians alike will revel at the book’s in-depth data and details on the body, interior and engines that created this American driving icon. In addition to the production vehicles, prototypes, show cars, anniversary editions and pace cars are also covered. With extensive details, specifications, hundreds of photographs and a trick book cover featuring an RS-model headlight door that slides open when the book is opened, The Complete Book of Camaro is the ultimate resource on Chevrolet’s legendary pony car. The book makes a perfect gift for any student, instructor, muscle-car enthusiast or vehicle historian whose heart for the Camaro runs deep.

BOOK NOTES: Author: David Newhardt Price: $50 plus S & H

ACROSS 1. Reciprocating engine components 5. Windshield adjunct 8. Unexpected engine stoppage 9. Drive-shaft parts, briefly (1,6) 10. Flat ____ labor-charge system 11. Bonneville racing surface (4,4) 13. Auto-electric current type 14. Texas petroleum source (3,3) 18. Engine-block material, maybe (4,4) 20. Burn fuel pointlessly 22. Carburetor venturis, in other words 23. Interstate offramps 24. Windshield pillar (1,4) 25. Body-shop power tools

Format: Hardcover, 288 Pages ISBN: 9780760339619 To order: www.qbookshop.com/motorbooks.com

Tomorrow’s Technician March Crossword

DOWN 1. Valve lifter and rocker arm connector 2. Component containing bendix drive 3. Engine lubricants 4. Irritating new-car sound 5. Luxury-car dash feature, often (4,4) 6. Auto-body section 7. Trip-odometer pushbutton 12. Body-shop visit cause, commonly 15. Tachometer warning mark 16. Chassis and wheel-bearing lubes 17. Uplifting shop equipment 18. Carroll Shelby's muscle-car creation 19. Brake booster synonym 21. Carb-mixture condition, perhaps

March 2013 | TomorrowsTechnician.com

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