Brake & Front End by Babcox Media

■ ALIGNMENT: Hyundai Accent

■ TPMS: Q&A

■ AIR RIDE: Slow Death

MAGAZINE

BrakeandFrontEnd.com February 2013

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CONTENTS 22

Publication

980th Issue, Volume 85, No. 2

Brake Job: 1996-2005 Honda Civic

Alignment Specs: 20062011 Hyundai Accent

Contaminated Brake Pads

The 6th or 7th generation Honda

Hyundai began selling the 3-door

Civic is one of the most common cars on the roads. While you have probably performed numerous brake jobs on Civics, there are some failures and problems that may sneak up on you.

Accent hatchback in the United States during the spring of 2006. The Accent is a “net-build” vehicle with no built-in adjustments, but adjustments can be made with aftermarket parts.

Contamination always has negative connotations. For brake pads, it has a dual meanings. It can mean contaminated friction surfaces that alter friction levels and performance, or contamination to the environment.

Editor Andrew Markel, ext. 296 email: amarkel@babcox.com Managing Editor Tim Fritz, ext. 218 email: tfritz@babcox.com

Technical Editor Larry Carley Contributing Writers Gary Goms, Scott “Gonzo” Weaver, Larry Bailly, Bob Dowie and Randy Rundle

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Graphic Designer Dan Brennan, ext. 283 email: dbrennan@babcox.com

Advertising Director Cindy Ott, ext. 209 email: cott@babcox.com

Publisher Jim Merle, ext. 280 email: jmerle@babcox.com

Circulation Manager Pat Robinson, ext. 276 email: probinson@babcox.com

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DEPARTMENTS Columns 10 Gonzoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tool Box

HOME OFFICE 3550 Embassy Parkway Akron, Ohio 44333-8318 330-670-1234 FAX 330-670-0874 www.babcox.com PRESIDENT Bill Babcox bbabcox@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 217

18 TPMS Q&A 28 Photo Tech: CV Axles

VICE PRESIDENT Jeff Stankard jstankard@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 282

32 Air Ride Suspensions

Sales Representatives: Bobbie Adams badams@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 238

40 Drilled or Slotted Rotors?

Doug Basford dbasford@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 255

42 Brake Line Replacement

Sean Donohue sdonohue@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 206

48 Product Showcase

Dean Martin dmartin@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 225

51 Rapid Response

Glenn Warner gwarner@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 212

56 Brake Lights Brake and Front End is a member of and supports the following organizations:

Publication

ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES

06 Viewpoint

14 Industry Review

John Zick jzick@babcox.com 949-756-8835 List Sales Manager Don Hemming dhemming@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 286 Classified Sales Tom Staab tstaab@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 224

BRAKE & FRONT END (ISSN 0193-726X) (February 2013, Volume 85, Number 2): Published monthly by Babcox Media, 3550 Embassy Parkway, Akron, OH 44333 U.S.A. Phone (330) 670-1234, FAX (330) 670-0874. Periodical postage paid at Akron, OH 44333 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to BRAKE & FRONT END, P.O. Box 13260, Akron, OH 44334-3913. BRAKE & FRONT END is a trademark of Babcox Publications, Inc. registered with the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. All rights reserved. A limited number of complimentary subscriptions are available to individuals who meet the qualification requirements. Call (330) 670-1234, Ext. 260, to speak to a subscription services representative or FAX us at (330) 670-5335. Paid Subscriptions are available for non-qualified subscribers at the following rates: U.S.: $69 for one year. Canada: $89 for one year. Canadian rates include GST. Ohio residents add current county sales tax. Other foreign rates/via air mail: $129 for one year. Payable in advance in U.S. funds. Mail payment to BRAKE & FRONT END, P.O. Box 75692, Cleveland, OH 44101-4755. VISA, MasterCard or American Express accepted.

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Viewpoint

By Andrew Markel | EDITOR

SMART PHONE, DUMB CUSTOMER

y grandfather owned a gas station and three-bay shop in Denver, Co. On weekends, I would go to the station and hang out with my dad when he filled in. I can remember how much customers valued his opinions and advice on automotive service and maintenance.

As a child, it made my dad a very important person in my eyes. He was someone who saved a family’s vacation with a new A/C compressor, and helped a young traveling salesman get to his next sales call on a new tire. It was clear to me that a mechanic was very important and my dad was a hero.

op. When she got out of the Escape, even I could tell the service writer was in trouble. The first clue was her “cell phone body language.” She was one of those people whose phone was permanently attached to their hand. You could hear it buzzing and chiming with text messages, tweets and Facebook updates.

“Cell phone body language” This past month, I went to a shop to get some flash reprogramming done on my car. I decided to wait and enjoy the ambience of a shop’s waiting room on a Saturday morning. As the morning rush was coming to a close, in pulls a 2009 Ford Escape (the #1 Cash-for-Clunkers seller, you know the type…). You could hear the wear sensors and pads grinding on the rotors as she pulled into a parking spot. If you have worked the front counter at any shop, you can tell a lot about a customer as they walk from their car to the front door. It is a talent all service writers devel-

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In her other hand, some paperwork and a massive key chain with trinkets and every customer loyalty key tag from the tri-county area. Also, by the way she carried herself, you could tell that she was angry and defensive about something. I am not singling out women. Men act the same way. Except men usually come armed with TSBs and internet forum posts. They will deny and disavow any automotive knowledge or attempted botched repair jobs when someone who knows more confronts them. It is a guy code thing. She said the dealer told her the brakes were not covered under the warranty and she was mad. No greetings, no common exchanges of human

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Viewpoint But access to the wrong information and too much of it, can make a person down right mean. kindness. The service writer behind the counter kept a smile as she pushed the paperwork towards him. As he scanned the estimate, she asked, “How much?” He said they would need to inspect the vehicle first before quoting her a price. She did not like this answer. She was convinced this was a ploy to sell her something she did not need. She relented and sat down in the waiting room, smart phone in hand. She probably went on Facebook and complained about the dealer and having to visit another shop while hoping to get sympathy or likes from her online “friends.” I am also willing to bet she “Googled” or submitted her problem to an “ask the expert” website looking for answers that matched her paranoia and pocketbook and not reality. After the inspection, the service writer gave her the estimate. She did not like hearing the job required new front rotors. Her expression got even worse when he brought up a worn control arm bushing. 8 February 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

Her abuse of the man behind the counter cannot be repeated in this magazine. She accused him of trying to take advantage of her and that she would be in contact with a local TV station. She also pepper the conversation with phrases like “I read…,” and “it said…” The lowest point was when she asked him about his commission rate. She declined the work, and waited by the front door feverishly tapping away on her phone while they put the wheels back on her car. This is in sharp contrast to what I saw at my grandfather’s gas station more than 30 years ago. People were more civil and respected the knowledge and experience of people who worked on cars for a living. It can be said knowledge and being able to access it can make some people paranoid, isolated and less trusting. But access to the wrong information and too much of it, can make a person down right mean. ■ Do you have a bad customer story? Email me: amarkel@babcox.com.

Gonzo’s Tool Box By Scott “Gonzo” Weaver Gonzosae@aol.com

Walk A Mile In My Shoes And You’ll Know Where I Get My Stories

was asked some time ago about why I write these peculiar articles about the vehicle repair business. Well, the only way I can explain it is to put yourself in the position that I’m in on a daily basis. I spend a better part of my day trying to understand what a customer is explaining to me, while using my training, background and basic common sense to come up with a logical answer to their vehicle’s problem.

This is where these true-tolife stories begin. During an average day, a tech might work on vehicles spanning more than 20 different production years. Nothing is ever the same, from year to year, model to model, or manufacturer to manufacturer. These differences can be as varied as the people we meet. Knowing

“Don’t do business with people you can’t get along with or ones you feel uncomfortable around.” these changes in the car systems can be overcome with years of experience, but knowing how to deal with the attitudes and personalities of the consumer can take a lifetime. The varied ways people will explain their car problems to the tech can be baffling or even misleading. I try to never approach a situation with blinders on so I don’t

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get lead down the wrong repair path. Sometimes, their explanations leave a lot of doubt as to what they really are trying to say. For some people, explaining things isn’t easy, so their way of getting their point across is to use an extremely long version of the story, or a complete biographical saga from their childhood to the present, just so

I don’t miss any details. It’s hard to remind myself that I’m not going to make a customer out of every person who calls the shop, or patron who comes in the door, but I’m still stubborn enough to try anyway. As one long-time shop owner once told me years ago, “Don’t do business with people you can’t get along with or ones you feel uncomfortable around.” I tend to believe that’s true after seeing the variety of people I’ve encountered over the years. But, those odd and different

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Gonzo’s Tool Box personalities and explanations about car problems are the best material for the next new story. You never know, the next one coming through the door might be a real winner. When it comes to educating the customer about what’s wrong with their vehicle, there’s only so far I can go. I usually try several different angles to bring the technical answer down to a level that is acceptable to the customer, but, sometimes, their comprehension is aided only by me using everything from charts, to graphs, to hand puppets. Sometimes, even explaining things to the customer is a show in itself. It can certainly be just as comical watching me try to explain something, as it is listening to their stories.

“Sixth Sense” After many years of standing behind the counter, I tend to have a “sixth sense” about the upcoming repair, either from the reactions of the customer, or from the condition of the car. I tend to go back through my memory files and find a situation that is comparable to the latest one. After all of these years, there’s no doubt there are some comparisons to a story I’ve already put onto paper. Writing these stories down also makes it easier to think of a better way to handle it in the future, or be aware of the potential outcome. In some small way, I hope people who read my stories not only see the humor in these situations, but also take away from them a bit of knowledge. I like to think of it as a life lesson that can’t be taught out of the autoGo to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com

motive repair manual. But, it’s something everyone has or will experience.

“Reality check” You could call it a “reality check” for the automotive world. I write about the everyday events that occur in an automotive repair shop, not some contrived managementimprovement idea that’s going to boost your bottom line. Techs from all over the world e-mail me, and have no trouble relating to my stories, and you can tell they’re smiling while they write those e-mails. It helps everyone realize they are not alone in this incredible and challenging world of automotive repair. And that’s what these stories are really all about. But, these stories not only apply to just automotive techs; they’re something anyone who deals with the general public will enjoy reading. I know doctors, lawyers, bank executives, roofers and a whole lot of other professionals who read and relate to my stories. When you take the time to really think about it, somewhere in our family tree we all have that crazy relative who has done something weird, or a co-worker whose elevator has skipped a few floors. It might even be something you’ve noticed on the news or on the drive home. You just never know where the next interesting story will come from. No matter where we are, something out of the ordinary is going to happen, sooner or later. And, as long as that keeps happening, I’ll keep writing. ■

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Industry Review Federal-Mogul Introduces Interactive Local Market Technician Support Platform

Federal-Mogul announced a new in-market technical and product support platform. The new platform features a team of ASE-certified specialists and sophisticated technical support vehicles that will be deployed throughout North America with the capability to reach thousands of automotive service professionals each year. The in-market support teams complement the in-depth technical training programs and materials available via Federal-Mogul’s award-winning Technical Education Center in St. Louis. The new platform features a team of ASE-certified specialists and sophisticated technical support vehicles that will be deployed throughout North America with the capability to reach thousands of service professionals each year. “Automotive service professionals face new diag-

nostic, repair and customer service challenges every day,” said Jay Burkhart, senior vice president, global markets, Vehicle Component Solutions, FederalMogul. “We believe it’s our responsibility as a leading manufacturer to offer a comprehensive two-way communication platform that provides valuable daily support of these professionals on a one-to-one basis. This platform will serve as a hands-on, in-mar-

GUESS THE CAR! WIN $50! What vehicle MAKE does the picture on the left represent? Submit your guess with our online contest form by visiting www.BrakeandFrontEnd.com/guessthecar

#12

The winner will be randomly selected from correct entries and awarded $50. Entries must be received by March 1, 2013.

January Solution: Ford (Focus) Solved by: Brandon Apple of Singer Auto Center in Abingdon, Maryland

#11

CONGRATULATIONS Brandon!

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Employees of Babcox Media, industry manufacturers and Brake and Front End advertisers are not eligible to enter.

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Industry Review ket interface with the thousands of professionals who specify and install our products on the job. “Technicians will be able to hold our products in their hands and see how and why they’re the best choices for their customers’ vehicles,” Burkhart continued. “This one-to-one connection has been missing for too long in the aftermarket, yet it’s more important than ever given today’s increasingly sophisticated vehicle systems and rising consumer expectations.” Federal-Mogul also offers a real-time electronic information system, www.fme360.com, which enables service professionals to access the latest news regarding the company’s products and programs as well as an extensive virtual library of technical resources and other business-critical tools.

Rein Automotive Introduces 'First

Aid Program' For Problematic Parts

CRP Automotive, a provider of OE-quality replacement parts for Asian and European import vehicle applications, has developed a special Rein Automotive parts program that focuses on components with high incidents of replacement or failure on certain vehicles. The Rein Automotive "First Aid" program delivers a valuable problem-solving solution, and, to make things easy for the professional technician, installation components, such as Orings and clamps, are included, according to CRP. The Rein First Aid program is specifically designed for European vehicle applications and is comprised of parts based on their repair frequency rather than by their product group. CRP says the program assures that customers will always have the parts on hand that are in need of frequent replacement, so shops and technicians will only have to look to one source to get the parts they use the most. Included in the Rein First Aid Program are: shaped breather hoses, axle boot kits, fuel, oil and coolant caps, dipsticks and dipstick funnels, power steering and oil cooler hoses, switches, sensors and relays, power steering fans and boot kits. The Rein Automotive under car program features easy look-up on CRP’s online application catalog, which can be accessed through the CRP Automotive Rein Automotive brand website, www.reinautomotive.com, or via ShowMeTheParts.com/crp. ■ BrakeandFrontEnd.com 17

TPMS

Q: Can the Tire Type and/or Placard Value be changed if aftermarket tires or wheels are installed? A: The Tire Type (P Metric, LT Load Range C/D/E) and the Placard Value (Front Placard and Rear Placard, individually) are stored in the receiver as calibrations and can be revised on some vehicles through flash reprograming. Since the under-inflation threshold is calculated as a percentage of the placard; correcting the placard values when different tires are installed will bring the vehicle back into compliance. Q: Can Tire Pressure Monitoring be turned off? A: No.Tire Pressure Monitoring is now a mandat-

ed safety system in the United States and cannot knowingly be disabled by an OEM nor an aftermarket service provider (49 USC 30101).

Q: Will a tire pressure sensor fit in every wheel? A: Stock wheels are designed to accommodate tire pressure sensors. Many aftermarket wheels also accommodate tire pressure sensors, but not all do. In some, the valve stem hole is placed in such a way (pointing straight into the middle of the wheel on some off-road wheels) that the motion detection components inside the sensor will not work correctly. Q: Can the sensor be cleaned with a sharp pin? A: NEVER use a sharp object to clean the pressure port of the sensor; it can be damaged and lead to part failure. If the dirt/grime/obstruction cannot be removed with a cloth, replace the sensor.

Q: Why are dashes (" - - "), or a pressure value

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of 148 PSI (1020 kPa), sometimes displayed after a battery disconnect? A: These displays come up after a battery disconnect/reconnect because the system is waiting for updated pressure information to be sent from the tire pressure sensors. As each sensor transmits its information, the display is updated appropriately. Note that when dashes or 148 PSI (1020 kPa) are displayed after a battery disconnect/reconnect, the System Malfunction warning is NOT displayed because the system is still working properly, and simply waiting for updated information from the sensors. Driving the vehicle above 20 mph (32 km/h) for 2 minutes gets the sensors talking, and restores the correct pressure values to the display. It is also possible to restore the values by using a TPMS tool, using the "Activate" function at each tire to activate the sensor (it is NOT necessary to put the system into Learn mode, in this special case). â&#x2013;

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Brake Job

Honda

1996-2005 Honda Civic T

he 6th or 7th generation Honda Civic is one of the most common cars on the roads. While you have probably performed numerous brake jobs on Civics, there are some failures and problems that may sneak up on you.

BASICS FIRST The most basic and oftenoverlooked detail is a thorough inspection of the total system. While the front pads may be the obvious problem that got the Civic on the lift, it’s our responsibility, and opportunity, to inspect the entire system. Take a good look at the rear shoes or pads; we’ve seen the friction material separate from the shoes on some older cars. The safety consequences of this problem are obvious. Also take a look at the hardware, including the self-adjustment and hand-brake mechanisms. Don’t overlook the wheel cylinders; check them for leakage as well as free movement of the pistons. Hopefully you recommend and sell a brake fluid flush along with any brake service. This is the time to be sure the bleeders will open and aren’t plugged. At the same time, look at the brake hoses and the steel lines to confirm their condition. Honda Civics uses the famil-

February 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

iar turn back-type caliper with the rear disc brakes. What we’re looking for here is even wear of the pads. Check the hand-brake system to make sure it’s operating freely, and check the condition of the cables. Are the protective rubber boots still intact, or can you see the rust on the inner cable? If the cable looks good, unhook it from the caliper to confirm its condition as well as to check for binding in the mechanical part of the caliper. the pistons, catching the bad fluid in your bleeder bottle. You’re going to bleed and flush the system as part of the service anyway, so you might as well get rid of the most abused fluid from the start.

PAD REMOVAL

When it comes to replacing the pads, the same good habits apply to both the front and rear. By now, I’m sure we’re all aware of the risk involved with simply pushing contaminated brake fluid backward through the ABS system. The risk of creating blockages in the ABS modulator is just too great to overlook. There’s really no reason not to open the bleeders and slowly retract

As the pads are being removed, it’s important to look for anything that isn’t moving freely. As mentioned earlier, we’re also looking for pads that are worn evenly, otherwise the workload isn’t being distributed evenly at best, and there’s a good chance the pads are hanging up and putting the dreaded heat into the rotors. It’s not unusual for the customer not to notice these problems since they tend to come on gradually. But all of them can feel the difference once the

Brake Job system is restored to its original condition. The system inspection continues as we start to replace pads. Open the bleeder and push back the pistons on the calipers. On the front, we use a C-clamp between the outer pad and the back of the caliper.

If the slides are frozen, it will become evident when the caliper is removed. On some older models, the slides are part of the bolts, while on others, the caliper bolts go into the slide. Either way, they should be removed, cleaned and lubricated. Be sure to check the condition of the rubber boots that protect the sliders from the elements.

inside diameter of the caliper bracket, carefully remove the boot to clean the rust off the housing and the boot to re-establish the proper clearance. Newer Civics use a seal on the slider part of the bolt that is much more effective and easier to service. Now with the caliper removed, the piston should easily return to the bottom of the bore; if not, a rebuild is certainly in order. Be careful when turning the piston so that the boot isn’t torn. If the boot feels brittle, or is already torn, it’s a good indication that overheating has taken place. Being equipped to handle both mechanical and hydraulic application, the rear calipers are twice as likely to have a problem.

The last place to look will be the most obvious — the pads themselves being stuck in the bracket. Like the boots that tighten up by the buildup of rust behind them, remove the plated anti-rattle clips from the bracket and clean up the bracket where they sit. The final step is to use a high-quality lube on the slider hardware as well as any areas that make metal-tometal contact, particularly where the pads mount into the bracket.

TIME-SAVING CALIPERS If you’re working on a model where the boot is located on the

The good news is there is a profitable alternative to the extra time required to restore the performGo to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com

Brake Job Honda ance of a caliper assembly. The availability of affordable loaded or friction-ready calipers for all popular applications often make these a better choice for both you and the customer. The customer gets his/her car back, the shop can stay on schedule and you have the piece of mind of installing a quality part with the protection of a warranty for both you and your customer.

The question of loaded versus friction-ready goes to the shop’s policy and preferences. While loaded calipers can offer a good value, you want to be sure they include a pad you’re comfortable installing on the car. And, in some cases, like when only the caliper needs to be replaced (although I prefer to replace them in pairs), friction-ready units might be the best choice.

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With any type of rotor, it’s critically important that the hub surface where the rotor mounts is clean and free of rust; the rotor should slide onto the hub. If it doesn’t, find out why (don’t pull the rotor home with the bolts). Like the lug nuts, the rotor bolts should be clean, lightly lubed and tightened evenly to the torque spec. With knock-off-style rotors, don’t overlook the outside diameter of the hub. It’s commonplace to

24 February 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

find rust buildup that gets disturbed when the rotor is removed. In some cases, it will prevent the new rotor from sliding home. Either way, a few minutes spent removing the rust now is better than having the car kickback with a noise complaint or, worse yet, a damaged ABS sensor.

OTHER PROBLEMS When faced with the complaint of poor braking performance, ask the customer if the pedal remains hard and solid, or does it fade to the floor? If fading is the problem, suspect that the master cylinder is leaking internally. You can usually duplicate the condition by lightly working the brakes while driving downhill. If the pedal is hard and firm, suspect the calipers or stuck pads. There have been some issues with the boosters leaking vacuum, which can be confirmed with some investigation with your stethoscope or even a smoke machine. Pedals with excessive stroke that don’t stop well will often go back to what we talked about earlier. If only one of the slider pins is seized, or the pads are flexing in the bracket, the boost-assisted hydraulic system will have no problems forcing things to move. A quick check for this problem is similar to the booster test. With the engine off, stroke the brake pedal to dump the vacuum. If the pedal feels good without boost, but you’re able to get excessive stroke with boost, suspect excessive movement somewhere. You could clamp the brake hoses to pinpoint the corner, but why take the chance? You have to take it apart anyway, and if one corner needs to be serviced, you might as well check them all. ■

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Alignment Spec

2006- 2011

Hyundai Accent By Andrew Markel

yundai began selling the 3-door Accent hatchback in the United States during the spring of 2006. The Accent is a â&#x20AC;&#x153;net-buildâ&#x20AC;? vehicle with no built-in adjustments, but adjustments can be made with aftermarket parts.

Front Suspension The front suspension is a McPherson strut setup. The lower control arm isolates harshness and vibration with a large bushing in the front. Always inspect this bushing for damage. Look for any separation of the rubber from the metal. Always make note of tire wear. If a customer does not rotate the tires, the stock tires would wear the inside edges. This is normal. Like most new vehicles, the Accent does not have any built-in adjustments for caster and camber, but they can be made by installing cam bolts on the strut. Too much positive camber will result in a car that will pull or drift depending on the amount of cross camber. Hyundai recommends the cross caster should be less

February 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

than 0.5 degrees. Hyundai recommends checking SAI with an alignment system that can perform a caster sweep. It is useful for checking for damaged components when the SAI difference between left and right sides is more than 1 degree. If SAI is lower on one side of the vehicle, it may indicate a bent lower control arm. If SAI is higher on one side of the vehicle, it may indicate damage to the upper strut mount.

Rear Suspension The rear suspension on the 2006-2011 Accent is a trailing

Alignment Spec beam axle. The previous model used a multi-link set up. While this setup is almost bullet-proof, the axle can be tweaked by moderate impacts with curbs and potholes. There are no built-in adjustments for toe or camber. Adjustments can be made by installing a shim between the axle and wheel-bearing hub. It is recommended by Hyundai to check thrust angle and set back before performing adjustments in the front. Failing to do this could result in an off-center steering wheel.

replacement parts and the calibration or absolute steering position (ASP) reset of the steering position sensor after a toe adjustment. The steering position sensor is a light sensor

that uses three wheels with shudders to determine the position. Two sensors measure the steering angle, while another measures straight ahead. â&#x2013;

Steering The Accent uses electric power steering called MDPS (Motor Driven Power Steering). The system requires a scan tool for the initialization of

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CV Axles

Photo Tech: CV Axles

A look inside a joint.

Rzeppe CV joint can be found on the majority of vehicles on the road. A typical Rzeppa joints allow 45°–48° of articulation

CV Joint housings are typically forged from iron billets. After the joint is machined, induction heat treating is used to harden wear surfaces. Wear in a Rzeppa CV joint typically occurs on the cage, gear and cup. This wear is typically caused by a loss of lubrication due to a boot failure, or debris in the joint. Once heat treated surfaces are damaged, they typically cannot be restored.

February 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

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CV Axles Grease is often packed by hand at the factory. If there is too much grease, the grease will be pushed out of the boot. If you are servicing a joint, use only the recommended amount or only what comes in the kit.

The materials used to make the boot are not just plastic or rubber. They designed to last millions of cycles in a wide range of temperatures.

Tone rings are often pressed onto a CV joint. Make sure the number of teeth match the old axle.

New axles should always get a new axle nut. 30 February 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

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Air Ride

hen an air ride system fails, it can fail in a big way. It is a rarity that just one component fails. It can be a cascade of failures that can lead to a huge repair bill. Make it a point to inspect the system before a health check turns into an autopsy. The first signs of a failing system maybe a compressor that runs a little longer than expected or blown fuse. These are symptoms of a problem with the system, but they are also a problem on their own.

AIR COMPRESSORS When a compressor runs more than normal, it can cause debris to enter the system. It can also increase the amount of moisture in the system. Both can damage valves and other sensitive components in the air ride system. Most passenger and light truck compressors are a diaphragm-type that supplies an oil free air supply to the springs. A piston-type compressor is available for custom systems. The compressor is designed for intermittent service to inflate the air springs.

February 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

Running the compressor for extended periods can over heat the compressor and damage the diaphragm or piston. It is very important to ensure that the source of air for the compressor is clean and as dry as possible. Another thing to remember is that most compressors are not in the cleanest of environments. Most are mounted under the vehicles where they can be subjected to road spray. Most systems have a dryer that is connected to the compressor outlet to absorb the water entering the system. The dryer contains a moisture-absorbing desiccant such as silica gel. The desiccant can hold a given amount of water and once the desiccant is saturated with water, it will allow water to pass into the system. The dryers that are installed on most systems do not have an indicator that will show when it is saturated and no longer able to absorb water. An additional dryer with a moisture indicator can be added to the original equipment dryer. Some are not serviceable and are incorporated into the compressor

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Air Ride

unit. They have a limited life and any compromises in the system can lead to an early demise.

LINES It is a common practice to flush the lines of a transmission after it has failed internally. The same is true for air ride systems. Lines of a damaged system can hold moisture and debris from a failed compressor. Not flushing the lines can lead to the premature failure of a new component including air struts and shocks. Flushing the line with compressed air should remove any debris. Do not use brake cleaner; the solvents could damage the lines.

AIR BLADDERS Air bags and bladders are not the weakest link in the system. Advances in the synthetic materials that make the air bag make the air chamber resistant to leaks and tears. Internal damage caused by compressor debris can cause a leak in the air bag. Also, oil from the compressor may cause damage to the internal surfaces of the bladder. This can weaken the spring and cause it to fail. Nothing is worse than a comeback or having to warranty a repair you already performed. Besides hurting your bottom line, it hurts your reputation with the customer and your suppliers. Piecemealing out an air suspension repair by replacing the next failed component is not fixing a vehicle. â&#x2013; 34 February 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

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Brake Pads

By Andrew Markel

C ONTAMINATED BRAK

Could you be installing trou UNDERSTANDING WHAT IS GOING ON AT THE ROTOR AND PAD

ontamination always has negative connotations. For brake pads, it has dual meanings. First, it can mean a contaminated friction surfaces that alter friction levels and performance. Second, it can mean contamination to the environment from brake dust. In this article, we will attempt explain both issues because both forms of contamination start when a brake pad is pressed into a rotor and friction is generated.

FRICTION AND DUST Friction is the force resisting the relative motion of elements sliding against each other.

February 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

In the case of cars and trucks, it is the brake pads pushing against a rotor that changes kinetic energy into heat. If you could mount a microscope on a brake pad, you would see bits and pieces of the pad and rotor breaking away from the surfaces as they contacted the rotor. As this is happening, the heat is physically and chemically changing the exposed friction material and bits and pieces are being torn or sheared from the rotor and pad. Some particles become part of the friction surface or the rotor while others are cast off to stick to wheels and eventually be washed down the drain and maybe into rivers

Some friction materials use a different material for the bottom layer of the pad

and streams. The bottom line is that for the brakes to function, the rotors and pads have to wear. Even a brake rotorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s metallurgy can determine how a pad wears.

Brake Pads

This is what a transfer layer looks like to the naked eye.

tion and why some pad manufacturers protect their recipes like Coke and KFC’s seven secret herbs and spices.

TWO TYPES OF FRICTION

KE PADS

uble?

THE SECRET SAUCE OF FRICTION How the components in the friction material shear, break and interact during braking can determine a pad’s friction level, noise and wear characteristic. A brake pad may require up to 20 different raw materials. Some raw components of a friction material are abrasive, while another components lubricate. Some components, like structural fibers and resins, hold the pad together, while other components tune the friction levels through various temperature ranges. Tuning the components in a brake pad mix is like tuning a graphic equalizer on a stereo for the best sound. This is the black art of friction material formula-

So friction is friction right? Wrong. There are two types of friction when it comes to brakes. Abrasive friction is the breaking of bonds of both the pad material and the cast iron of the disc when the caliper pushes them together. Adherent (or adhesive) pad material forms a very thin transfer layer of pad material on the surface of the rotor. The two surfaces are the same materials and generate friction by breaking or shearing the bonds in the pad. Abrasive friction is the wearing of the pad and rotor to change forward motion into heat. Both components wear. Semi-met pads and some non-asbestosorganics use this type of friction. Adherent (or adhesive)

pad material transfers a very thin layer of pad material onto the surface of the rotor. Ceramic and some NAO pads use this type of friction. The transfer layer is bonded to the rotor’s surface and cannot be washed away by water or wheel cleaners. The only way to remove it is by removing it with a brake lathe or abnormal heat. The layer is always being worn and replenished by the brake pad during braking. These pads produce dust. Adherent friction is easier on rotors, but the pads become the primary wear component. With this type of pad, it is critical to machine the rotor with the correct surface finish and follow the recommended break-in procedure so the transfer layer can be

BrakeandFrontEnd.com 37

Brake Pads established. With both types of friction, it is critical for the rotor to have minimal runout. Abrasive friction materials will wear away at high spots creating disc thickness variation and pulsation. Adhesive or adherent friction material could deposit the friction material unevenly and cause brake judder.

BAD STUFF Why do some pads use compoA friction material has may different components. Kevlar fibers help to give the brake pad structure under high temperatures nents that could be considered harmful to the environment and reduces fade so that brakes remain effective through people? Part of the answer is that the effects on the environment of some components were not fully extended braking events, transfers heat efficiently, realized until a few decades ago. and helps brakes be more effective in cold weather. Copper also has properties that help prevent brakes Copper is used in brake pads as an abrasive, but from squeaking and shuddering. two states have legislation limiting its content in brake pads. Copper performs several functions: it But the brake dust from these pads is the leading adds structural integrity to the brake pad material, cause of copper contamination in lakes and streams. The same can be said about asbestos. This naturally occurring fiber is a great structural fiber that resists heat. However, in the 1970s, scientists found that the dust caused cancer and asbestosis in technicians. Most friction material companies stopped using it, or never touched the asbestos at all because it put not only their customers at risk, but also their own employees. Some components are not harmful during manufacturing, but during the heat of braking, they can change and even combine with other elements and oxidize.

HOW HARMFUL IS THIS STUFF?

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38 February 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

There is no need to purchase a Haz-Mat suit to work on brakes. As long as you use common sense practices, like using a liquid brake cleaner and not compressed air, you should be fine. But, always check the MSDS sheets for any product used in your shop; this includes brake pads. The main focus of the new laws in Washington state and California is protecting the environment. Much of the dust that is emitted into the air is blown onto areas next to the road, or is washed into the storm drains when it rains. Most storm drains flow directly to creeks, rivers and marine waters without wastewater treatment. Copper and other harmful materials can hurt and kill small marine animals and even render some fish without a sense of smell. â&#x2013;

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Rotor Report

Drilled or Slotted? Y

ou’ve seen them on the race track. You’ve seen them on the street. You’ve seen them in speed shops, in magazine ads, online and probably on eBay, too. The product we’re talking about is slotted and/or cross-drilled high performance brake rotors. They look great, no doubt about it. It could be a “bling” thing with many buyers, but it can also be a worthwhile performance upgrade. It all depends

on the application, how the vehicle is driven and whether the customer wants a set of performance rotors for show or for go.

SIZE MATTERS One way to increase the cooling capacity of the brakes is to install larger rotors. The bigger the rotors, the more heat they can handle. Unfortunately, it isn’t easy to change the size of the rotors on many vehicles. Bigger rotors mean repositioning the calipers and/or going with large calipers, too. There are aftermarket conversion kits for some vehicles, but not for all.

SLOTTED ROTORS Some serious racers today have gotten away from crossdrilled rotors and now run slotted rotors or ones that use both slots and holes. Slotted rotors typically have four to eight evenly spaced shallow grooves milled into both surfaces of the rotor. The slots provide the same pad venting benefits as holes, but with less risk of cracking because the slots usually don’t extend all the way through the rotor (though some do). The slots are usually angled and curved so they sweep under the entire surface of the pads. This provides much better venting than a series of holes.

DRILLED ROTORS Years ago, racers started

February 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

cross-drilling rotors with small holes to increase cooling. Drilling 30 to 40 evenly spaced holes through the rotors increased airflow and cooling for faster heat dissipation. The phenolic resins that are used as binders to hold brake pads together give off vapors when they get extremely hot. The gas can form a boundary layer between the pads and rotor that reduces friction. The effect is similar to that of a plastic puck on an air hockey table. If the rotor is cross-drilled or slotted, the holes or slots break up the boundary layer and provide a path for the gas to escape. Now the pads can make full contact with the rotors for maximum braking effectiveness even when they are sizzling hot.

NO CRACKS, PLEASE Cross drilling rotors may seem like a great idea, but if done improperly, it can have serious consequences. Drilling a hole through the surface of a rotor creates a stress point in the metal. If the edges of the hole are not radius chamfered to dissipate the stresses, the hole may concentrate stress to the point where cracks start to form and propagate outward from the hole. Cracks are something you don’t want in a brake rotor because cracks can lead to catastrophic rotor failure! ■

Brake Lines

Brake Line Replacement T he brake lines on vehicles produced from the late 1960s to current should last from 8 to 10 years or more. Lines exposed to excessive road splash and debris can corrode and fail in a much shorter time. Use of improper tools, such as locking pliers, can damage the surface coatings on a line or fitting that can cause the corrosion to accelerate. Corrosion between the flare nut and the tubing can cause the nut to seize on the tube. The use of a good penetrating agent can loosen the nut and prevent damage to the tubing. There are three types of flare nuts used on brake tubing. The most common is the SAE 45º flare, which can have both U.S. and Metric threaded nuts. The 37º AN/JIC flare is used on many performance applications. The ISO flare can have both U.S. and Metric type flare nuts. It is referred to as the bubble flare.

Options for replacing a corroded or damaged brake line: (1) Order a aftermarket replacement line; (2) Fabricate a replacement

February 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

from a universal components. Option one is the best solution if the owner can allow the vehicle to be out of service until the part can be obtained. Option two is for the vehicle that needs to be returned to service as soon as possible. This replacement depends on your ability to fabricate a reliable replacement. The number of times you are confronted with a damaged line will guide your decision to buy the tools or to purchase a replacement. The investment in tools to properly fabricate a universal line can range from $200 to $500.

TUBING Stainless steel is used on some vehicles, but the majority of vehicle brake and fuel lines are mild steel tubing that is called Bundy tubing. And, the majority of replacement lines are Bundy tubing. Bundy tubing is cheaper than stainless steel, but it is a little easier to bend, flare and install. It can also be coated to avoid corrosion and abrasions. But, the coating can flake off. Stainless steel will not rust, but it is harder and not as for-

giving as mild steel. Bundy tube is a doublewalled low-carbon steel tube. It is manufactured by rolling a copper-coated strip and heating to 720 degrees, while the seam resistance brazed by a process called a Bundy weld. The copper and brazing coat the inside and the tube is sealed. It was invented by Harry Bundy in Detroit. The first car to use it was the Ford Model T. Over time, the brake fluid can corrode the copper and steel. If the brake fluid ages and the corrosion fighting chemicals break down, a system can corrode internally at a very fast rate. Some brake fluid tests measure the amount of copper ions in the fluid to determine the condition. Once the copper is gone, the mild steel goes fast. Is there a way to make brake or fuel lines last longer? YES. First, replace your brake fluid to protect the internal part of the brake line. Second, move South. If not driving in the snow or on roads treated with salt and de-icers isn’t an option, you can take the time to wash your car regularly an undercarriage sprayer. ■

Tech Tips

TOYOTA

This month is sponsored by:

TOYOTA TACOMA MAKES RATTLING NOISES ON ROUGH ROADS Some 2005-â&#x20AC;&#x2122;12 model year 4WD Tacoma and 2WD Tacoma PreRunner vehicles may exhibit a steering rattle noise when driven over rough road surfaces. A newly designed steering intermediate shaft (P/N 45220-04020) has been made available to address this condition.

Repair Procedure: Note: Prior to removing the steering intermediate shaft, make sure the steering wheel and front wheels are straight and remain stationary. Once the intermediate shaft is removed, do not allow the steering wheel to spin freely. Use a steering wheel holder to keep the steering wheel from turning. 1. Confirm the noise complaint and confirm that the intermediate shaft is the source of the noise.

Fig. 2 Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com

2. Install a steering wheel holder. 3. Remove the steering column hole cover by disengaging the four clips. 4. Put matchmarks on the intermediate shaft. See Fig. 1. 5. Remove the bolt that attaches the intermediate shaft to the steering column and discard the bolt. See Fig. 2.

Fig. 1

Fig. 3

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Tech Tips

TOYOTA / SUBARU

Fig. 5 1 – Original No. 2 Steering Intermediate Shaft 2 – New No. 2 Steering Intermediate Shaft Fig. 4 1 – New Upper Bolt 2 – Reuse Lower Bolt

6. Access the intermediate shaft from the driver’s side engine cover and remove the two engine cover clips. 7. Put matchmarks on the intermediate shaft as shown in Fig. 3 on page 44. 8. Remove the upper bolt that attaches the intermediate shaft

Fig. 6: Left, Incorrect: Splines are showing; they are not installed completely; Right, Correct: Splines are not showing.

No. 1 to the intermediate shaft No. 2 and discard the bolt. (See Fig. 4.) Loosen the lower bolt, then slide the shaft up and out. 9. Place matchmarks on the new intermediate shaft. See Fig. 5. a. Place the new steering intermediate shaft next to the original intermediate shaft. b. Transfer the matchmarks on the original intermediate shaft to the same locations on the new steering intermediate shaft. 10. Install the new steering intermediate shaft. a. Align the matchmarks and install the intermediate shaft to the steering column first. 46 February 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

Tech Tips b. Align the matchmarks and install the intermediate shaft to the lower intermediate shaft. Note: Ensure that the splined portion of the shaft is completely seated into the U-joint female end. When installing the bolt, make sure the groove in the shaft is aligned properly so that the bolt will prevent the shaft from sliding out of the U-joint. 11. Install the new bolt. Torque: 35 Nm (26 ft.-lbf.) 12. Install the new upper bolt and reuse the lower bolt. 13. Tighten the two intermediate shaft bolts. (See Fig. 4.) Torque: 35 Nm (26 ft.-lbf.) 14. Install the engine cover with the two clips and the column hole cover with the four clips.

15. Remove the steering wheel holder. 16. Road-test the vehicle to verify the repair. Confirm that the steering wheel is centered and no warning lights illuminate during the test drive. 17. If the steering wheel is not centered, follow the repair manual steering wheel centering procedure. 18. Perform calibration of the yaw rate sensor and steering angle sensor. Note: Any time alignment is performed, calibration of the yaw rate and steering angle sensor is necessary. 19. Test-drive the vehicle to confirm that the noise is gone. Courtesy of ALLDATA.

Mysterious Subaru Leaking Engine Oil Seals? Check the PCV! The Mitchell 1 Techline has heard of a very limited number of cases involving engine oil seals leaking after being displaced from their normal positions. As the engine heats and cools, condensation can accumulate in the PCV system, which, in extreme cold climates, can eventually turn to ice. Upon closer inspection, technicians have reported finding accumulations of ice restricting or blocking airflow through the PCV system. When the engine’s PCV system cannot “breathe” properly, excessive crankcase pressure can build, resulting in oil seal displacement/leak. Once the seal is displaced, the pressure buildup condition is gone. This situation can easily be overlooked if the vehicle is brought into the shop the night before inspection and/or repairs begin and allowed to “thaw out.” Once thawed, the blockage is gone and the PCV system returns to operating normally. This condition has only been found to occur on turbocharged vehicles operating in extreme cold temperatures. Courtesy of Mitchell 1. ■

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Brought to you by:

Product Showcase

AutoCareProNews.com

With an estimated 60% of vehicles on the road in need of an alignment, Hunter Engineering Company developed the new Quick Check system to help shops quickly identify these vehicles and drive more traffic to the alignment bay. Quick Check captures toe and camber measurements and produces printed results in under a minute. Service writers can then use the easy-to-understand, color-coded printouts to alert customers of misalignment issues and generate more repair orders for alignment service. Visit www.hunter.com. Reader Service: Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com

Gain Customers and a Great Reputation with OEM Branded Products from NAPA â&#x20AC;&#x201D; NAPA Import Auto Parts supplies globally sourced parts for import cars from the most respected original equipment manufacturers and aftermarket suppliers in the industry. With more than 6,000 NAPA Auto Parts stores, the company provides availability in virtually every market nationwide. Original equipment supplier products in the original brand packaging have never been this accessible until now! Visit www.NAPAonline.com.

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48 February 2013 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com

Product Showcase Autopart International introduces its new Severe Duty Chassis line. Engineered specifically for trucks, SUVs and commercial use vehicles, Autopart Internationalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new Severe Duty Chassis line offers the professional technician improved durability and extended life on ball joints and tie rod ends. Forged from SAE1045 steel, the heat-treated housing has superior structural integrity and durability. The powdered-metal gusher bearings with grease grooves extend product life, and a larger ball socket gives the ball joints added strength. Visit www.autopartintl.com. Reader Service: Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com

Beck/Arnleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new line of inner tie rod end and boot kits provide professional technicians with everything they need for a complete repair, including the tie rod, with additional parts if necessary, along with a steering rack boot and fasteners for the steering rack. Beck/Arnley currently offers 62 part numbers for 745 applications, which covers 28,149,089 registered vehicles in the U.S. Visit http://www.beckcatalog.com. Reader Service: Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com

BrakeandFrontEnd.com 49

Product Showcase Federal-Mogul has introduced 98 new MOOG steering and suspension components for millions of popular late-model foreign nameplate and domestic passenger vehicles. Among the new MOOG components are premium replacement sway bar link kits for 2012 Scion iQ (MOOG No. K750572), 2011-2012 Toyota Sienna (K750574) and 2008-2010 Mitsubishi Lancer (K750568) models and tie rod ends for 2011-2012 Ford F250 and F350 Super Duty trucks (ES800778) and 2009-2010 Infiniti G37 and Nissan 370Z (EV800804) passenger cars. Visit www.moogproblemsolver.com. Reader Service: Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com

Textar, a leading manufacturer of OE brake pads, now offers a range of German-engineered, high-carbon brake rotors for European applications. Utilizing the know-how that comes from nearly 100 years of developing OE brake pads, engineers at Textar have developed a perfectly matched brake rotor, ensuring the ultimate braking performance of your car, according to the company. This new range of high-quality brake discs is manufactured to precise German specifications. Textar brake rotors are available exclusively at WORLDPAC. Visit www.worldpac.com.

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Rancho, the performance suspension and shock brand of Tenneco, has added a 4-in. sport suspension system (Part no. RS66551B) for 2011-2013 Ford Super Duty F250/F-350 diesel trucks to its product line. The new sport suspension system will be available in early 2013 at leading performance retailers nationwide. Compatible with 37-in. tires, the latest Rancho sport suspension system for the Ford F-250/F-350 diesel truck includes a newly engineered forged pitman arm to enhance ride and handling while maintaining proper suspension geometry. Made in the United States, the Rancho suspension system also includes new track bar drop brackets and radius arm drop brackets. Visit www.GoRancho.com. Reader Service: Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com

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Brake Lights

Bad Brakes “Here are a couple photos from a 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3L. Vehicle has 309,821 miles and customer stated noise had started just a couple days before bringing it to us. Pictures are of the passenger front rotor.” Michael Conover, Midas Auto Service Experts, Cleburne, TX. ■

Do you have your own bad brakes story and pictures? If you do, it could be worth $75 and, if selected, your story could appear in BRAKE & FRONT END. Send digital pictures and your contact information to:

amarkel@babcox.com.

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