■Brake Job: Toyota Tundra
■Alignment Specs: Hyundai Elantra
■Ball Joint Inspection
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MAGAZINE
BrakeandFrontEnd.com March 2014
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COVER STORY: Loaded Struts
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Volume 86, No. 3
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Cheap Brake Jobs
Brake Lathe
Suspension
How They Cost Your Shop In The Long Run Chasing cheap brake jobs to beat competitors’ prices or lure new customers will only lead to reduced quality and dissatisfied customers, hurting your shop’s long-term prospects.
‘Smart’ Rotor Service Returning brake rotors to “like new” condition is a two-step process. If the vehicle has a pulsation complaint, it pays to perform a diagnostic check before machining the rotor in terms of both time and additional parts sales.
10 Reasons Why You Don’t Sell More Loaded Shocks & Struts From regimenting your test-drive loop and inspection process to improving your sales strategy, we break down the 10 hiccups in your approach to selling shocks and struts.
Publisher Jim Merle, ext. 280 email: jmerle@babcox.com
Managing Editor Tim Fritz, ext. 218 email: tfritz@babcox.com
Graphic Designer Dan Brennan, ext. 283 email: dbrennan@babcox.com
Circulation Manager Pat Robinson, ext. 276 email: probinson@babcox.com
Editor Andrew Markel, ext. 296 email: amarkel@babcox.com
Managing Editor Chris Crowell, ext. 268 email: ccrowell@babcox.com
Ad Services (Materials) Cindy Ott, ext. 209 email: cott@babcox.com
Subscription Services Maryellen Smith, ext. 288 email: msmith@babcox.com
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DEPARTMENTS Columns 6 On The Web 8 Viewpoint 10 Gonzo’s Toolbox 14 Industry Review 20 Toyota Tundra Brake Job 26 Alignment Specs: Hyundai 40 Ball Joints 52 Guest Editorial 54 Tech Tips 58 SHOP: Product Showcase 60 RAPID RESPONSE 61 Classifieds 64 Brake Lights
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BRAKE & FRONT END (ISSN 0193-726X) (March 2014, Volume 86, Number 3): Published monthly by Babcox Media, 3550 Embassy Parkway, Akron, OH 44333 U.S.A. Phone (330) 670-1234, FAX (330) 670-0874. Periodical postage paid at Akron, OH 44333 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to BRAKE & FRONT END, P.O. Box 13260, Akron, OH 443343913. BRAKE & FRONT END is a trademark of Babcox Publications, Inc. registered with the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. All rights reserved. A limited number of complimentary subscriptions are available to individuals who meet the qualification requirements. Call (330) 670-1234, Ext. 288, to speak to a subscription services representative or FAX us at (330) 670-5335. Paid Subscriptions are available for non-qualified subscribers at the following rates: U.S.: $69 for one year. Canada: $89 for one year. Canadian rates include GST. Ohio residents add current county sales tax. Other foreign rates/via air mail: $129 for one year. Payable in advance in U.S. funds. Mail payment to BRAKE & FRONT END, P.O. Box 75692, Cleveland, OH 44101-4755. VISA, MasterCard or American Express accepted.
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1. Operation, Diagnosis and Repair of Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems 2. TPMS Update: Toyota Tire Pressure Monitor Systems 3. Diagnosing Wheel Speed Sensors 4. Brake Job: Seventh Generation Accord (2003-'08) 5. Alignment & Suspension Specs: Ford Escape 2001-2010 For the full stories, head to www.BrakeandFrontEnd.com
Viewpoint
By Andrew Markel | EDITOR @andrewmarkel
Net Neutrality Defeated
ARE YOU READY FOR THE BIG SLOWDOWN?
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ight years ago, I predicted a grim future after the U.S. House of Representatives voted down the Net Neutrality Amendment by a vote of 269 to 152. Earlier this year, it became a sad reality that this could affect your shop.
WHAT IS NET NEUTRALITY? When a shop logs on to the Internet, a lot of things are taken for granted. We assume that we will be able to access whatever website we want, whether it be an OEM service information website, video technician training or a website to order parts. Also, we assume that our websites are being treated the same no matter what network or device we are using to view them. What makes all these assumptions possible is “network neutrality,” the guiding principle that preserves the free and open Internet. Net neutrality means that Internet service providers (ISP) may not discriminate between different kinds of content or who is providing it. It guarantees a level playing field for all websites and Internet technologies. But all that could change.
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THE RULING On Jan. 14, 2014, the U.S. Court of Appeals for the D.C. Circuit struck down the Federal Communications Commission’s Open Internet Order in the case of Verizon v. FCC. This ruling killed net neutrality, which means ISPs are now able to block any website or app they want and decide what you can do and where you can go online. The biggest cable and telephone companies would like to charge you money for smooth access to certain websites and for these websites to have access to you. Those who don’t make a deal and pay up will experience discrimination. It is double dipping. For you, a subscriber and small business owner, it means that an ISP can control the pipe that
delivers information to you through two methods. First, if a website does not pay an ISP to use their Internet pipeline, it has a right to reduce the bandwidth. Second, if you want full access to the Internet at usable speeds, it could cost you a lot more. You could find yourself needing a training video or a download of a wiring diagram, and it might be unwatchable or take forever to download because you did not pay for a top-tier Internet package, or the company hosting the information did not pay the ISP for access to you.
WHAT CAN YOU DO? Not much. You can contact your government representatives and sign online petitions, but you are at the mercy of your ISP.
Brake & Front End is pleased to announce the recent addition of Chris Crowell as Managing Editor, where he will play an integral role in the brand’s print, digital, web and social media properties and initiatives. Chris has a background in B-2-B publishing, having working as Editorial Director on magazines representing the title insurance and settlement services industries. ■
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Gonzo’s Tool Box By Scott “Gonzo” Weaver Gonzosae@aol.com
Don’t Judge a job by its cover
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t was a picture perfect day at the auto repair shop: the bays were full, the phone kept ringing, the front door bell never seemed to stop, and everyone was humming a tune. Parts were ordered and came in correct the first time. No snapped off bolts, no rusted parts, and no fuss about how long things were taking or how much it cost. Somehow, some way, there was going to be a loose nut thrown into the activities of the day. Two new jobs showed up at the same time. A nice, clean 2007 Ford F-350 4WD diesel with an ABS light on, and a really dilapidated 1997 KIA with charging system problems and no light on. The F-350 owner was practically enthusiastic about having his truck checked out. I’d even say he seemed rather proud about the whole thing. From there it was textbook diagnostics, run a few tests, check the codes, hook up the scanner and watch the
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speed sensor PIDs. Piece of cake. On the other hand, the same explanation of the diagnostic charges was given to the owner of the KIA. That didn’t go over as well — at all. Seems the KIA had been
around the block and around again. He has had it checked out at various shops, which all ended up ticking him off and provided no positive answers about his car’s problems. It took more than a little effort on my part just to get the owner to allow me to diagnose the problem. He finally said “yes” and handed me the keys. The paint was faded, the clear coat was peeling and the windshield was full of splinter cracks. The dull hood had greasy handprints
all over the front edge where people were grabbing it. It gets better. I grabbed the door handle, pulled, and the door didn’t budge. The owner then leans out of the office front door, while waiting for his ride, and said, “Ya gotta lift it up pretty hard and then jerk it open.” I waved thanks and gave the door a good yank. It creaked and moaned as it swung open. The interior of the car was a pit. Cigarette butts, papers, fast food cups and other assorted trash littered the interior. The smell was oppressive. But I said I’d look at, and after all the commotion and persuading at the front counter, I’m bound and determined to diagnose this problem — even if I have to wear a gas mask to do it. The dilapidated KIA ended up in the bay next to the pristine F-350 with the ABS problems. Both vehicles didn’t take long to diagnose. The
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Gonzo’sToolBox I don’t know if it was the price of the repair or what, but instead of getting an ‘OK’ as I expected, I got an earful about mechanics, the automotive repair business, and how we (mechanics) are all just a bunch of rip-offs taking advantage of hard working people like himself. Really? diesel just had a faulty front speed sensor, while the KIA had two problems: A faulty alternator and a strange problem with the instrument cluster. The charge light wouldn’t come on. Since this car has an alternator that is controlled by the PCM, the charge light is just there to indicate the condition of the charging system to the driver. It can charge just fine without a working charge light on this particular car. The only thing to do now was to write up both estimates. I was so sure the big, shiny diesel job would be a “do” that when I called to get prices on the parts, I told the parts supplier to go ahead and send the speed sensor, but hold off on the alternator. I just couldn’t see the KIA getting done. Next, I informed the customers. I explained the results of the test to the Ford owner and gave the estimate for the repair. Well, I don’t know if it was the price of the repair or what, but instead of getting an ‘OK’ as I expected, I got an earful about mechanics, the automotive repair business, and how we (mechanics) are all just a bunch of rip-offs taking advantage of hard working people like himself. Really? And to think, he was so eager 12 March 2014 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com
and obliging to have it checked out. There was no repairing the damage to my ego or this guy’s distrust of auto repair. It pretty much knocked the wind out of my sails. I hung the phone up knowing this job wasn’t going to happen. Discouraged, I took a deep breath and made the call to the KIA owner. I went through all the steps needed to bring his little car back to life, including the part about needing to pull the instrument cluster out to see why the charge light wasn’t working. I expected this guy to flip out but, to my utter amazement, he said, “Do it. Do it all. You’re the first person to make any sense out of what’s wrong, and I think you’re the man for the job. I expected it to cost a few bucks. Just call me when it’s ready.” I was still in shock as I hung up the phone. Here’s this rundown: The owner of a grease-covered car that I wouldn’t put a nickel into is having me do the whole thing; the owner of an exceptionally clean diesel goes on a rampage about how rotten car repair people are. Go figure. I guess it just goes to show, “Ya can’t judge a book by its cover, or an owner by his car.” ■
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IndustryReview
Increase PM Sales and Repeat Business With Mighty’s Spring Rebates Mighty Auto Parts is offering your customers a rebate worth up to $95 toward their next service at your shop. This program is designed to increase preventive maintenance sales and to bring customers back to your shop for a follow-up visit. When customers purchase one or more of the qualifying Mighty PM services, they receive a rebate check by mail, made out to your shop. Qualifying services include brake pad and rotor replacement; cabin air filter replacement; oil, cooling and transmission systems cleaning; and A/C service. This repeat-business promotion runs from March 1 through April 30, 2014. For details, visit www.mightyautoparts.com/spring14.
Centric Parts Adds 100,000 sq. ft. of Warehouse, Office Space
Centric Parts, a manufacturer and supplier of aftermarket brake components and systems under the Centric, Posi Quiet, C-TEK and StopTech labels among others, has announced the addition of 100,000 sq. ft. of new warehouse and office space adjacent to its existing City of Industry facility. This brings Centric’s total square footage in Industry to 470,000, and to a combined 650,000 sq. ft. between the company’s three Southern California facilities. “As our product range continues to grow, and we continue to add new applications for every product line we offer, we have decided to add another building to our City of Industry facility," said Dan Lelchuk, president of Centric Parts. “This new warehouse allows us to house an even larger inventory of parts so we may continue providing the highest fill rate in the industry, and it provides the additional space required for our upcoming product line expansion.” This expansion is just the latest for Centric Parts, which has continually grown over the 14 years since it was founded in 2000.
Consumer Rebates of Up to $30 Available on Wagner ThermoQuiet Brake Pads Consumers can qualify for mail-in rebates of up to $30 on their next automotive brake job by selecting Wagner ThermoQuiet brake pads this spring. Wagner Brake products are engineered and manufactured by Federal-Mogul Corporation. Available Feb. 24 through May 31, 2014, the popular Wagner Brake spring promotion offers mail-in consumer rebates of $15 per front pad set and/or $15 per rear pad set on the brand’s “best-ever” brake pads — new Wagner ThermoQuiet CeramicNXT pads featuring Wagner OE21 low-copper formulations and ThermoQuiet semimetallic pads. Wagner ThermoQuiet CeramicNXT brake pads featuring OE21 technology are 35 percent quieter and offer 15 percent more stopping power and up to 40 percent greater fade resistance than previous Wagner formulations. See www.WagnerTQRebate.com for complete details. Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com
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IndustryReview Tenneco’s Exclusive Loyalty Program Designed to Serve Undercar Service The 2014 Expert Plus service dealer loyalty program from Tenneco, created to help automotive service businesses increase their share of the undercar service market, includes a complete marketing and promotional package. The 2014 Expert Plus package has an increased emphasis on training, incentives and consumer promotions. “This year’s Expert Plus Program certainly makes it easier to become a leader in ride and emission control sales,” said Sheryl Bomia, North American Aftermarket programs manager at Tenneco. “The 2014 package includes a full year of consumer-driven promotions, sales incentives, training programs and an array of attractive merchandising products that are only available to members.”
The Expert Plus marketing package features an Expert Plus “Preferred Customer” rebate book that allows service professionals to extend promotional offers for Tenneco products beyond the standard promotional periods and is available for premium ride and emission control products. The package includes a new Monroe counter stool that highlights the Monroe OESpectrum product line, and Each Expert Plus kit contains merchandising elements to drive sales and promote the Monroe and Walker brands, including a Walker catalytic converter product booklet; Monroe OESpectrum molded floor mat; an educational Walker emissions control wall chart; branded appointment calendar and other point-of-sale materials. The enrollment fee for the annual program is $99.
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IndustryReview
KYB Americas Announces ‘$40 For 4’ Motorist Promotion During March and April, KYB Americas will offer motorists $40 via a mail-in rebate with a single purchase of any four KYB shocks and struts. The KYB “$40 for 4” promotion will be available at participating automotive service providers and automotive parts retail locations across the U.S., Puerto Rico and Canada. “We’re really excited about offering this rebate to motorists,” said KYB Americas Marketing Manager Kyle Freund. “It’s critical that a vehicle’s ride control components be maintained, and the $40 for 4 promotion gives motorists an unprecedented rebate for KYB’s Original Equipment for the Aftermarket shocks and struts.” KYB offers products that are built to either help restore the vehicle’s original control and handling or increase performance above the original design. KYB Corp. is a $4 billion global hydraulics manufacturer with more than 8,100 employees and sells its products in more than 100 countries.
DynoMax ‘Spring Promotion’ Offers $100 Prepaid Cards For Performance Exhaust Purchases DynoMax Performance Exhaust has announced it will offer performance enthusiasts an easy way to save on their DynoMax cat-back exhaust purchase this spring through the new “Spring Promotion” offer. The “Spring Promotion” will reward up to a $100 Visa prepaid card for the purchase of a qualifying cat-back exhaust system. Available from March 1 through June 30, the DynoMax Spring Promotion is available on all DynoMax exhaust systems. To see a list of exhaust systems and corresponding rebate rewards, visit www.DynoMax.com after March 1. The Spring Promotion includes offers for a $50, $75 and $100 Visa prepaid card. DynoMax Performance Exhaust systems are available for late-model and classic muscle cars, diesel and gas trucks and SUVs.
SafeBraking.com Announces Monthly Photo Contest Winners Automotive technician Mark Larkin of New Brunswick, NJ, is the second $250 monthly winner in the SafeBraking.com Photo Contest. Larkin’s submission was also one of the weekly winners, so in addition to the $250 Snap-on gift card, he also received a $100 Snap-on gift card. Larkin was automatically entered in the Grand Prize drawing for a trip for two to the 2014 SEMA/AAPEX show in Las Vegas. Larkin’s customer came in complaining of noisy brakes and chatter, and he found pads with uneven wear as the photo on the www.safebraking.com site shows. To enter the contest yourself, send in photos of your customers’ bad brake pads and you to could be a winner. The promotion is co-sponsored by NUCAP Industries. ■ Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com
BrakeJob
By Andrew Markel | Editor
TOYOTA TUNDRA Tundra is .05 mm or .002�. The hub flange should have almost zero runout.
REAR BRAKES
F
or 2007, the Toyota Tundra was redesigned. The body changed, and the foundation brake system was also updated with larger front brake calipers and rear disc brakes. The control system and hydraulics changed with a new vehicle stability system that included yaw, steering angle and brake pedal load sensors. Overall, this is one of the easier brake jobs. Changing the front brake pads does not require the application of lubricants. The rear brakes are a lot easier to service when compared to the previous models.
FRONT BRAKES The front brakes use the typical Toyota truck four-piston caliper. The pads are held in with pins that have an antirattle clip on the lower pin and a pin holder clip. These items should not be reused when replacing the pads. A quality pad set will include these in the box.
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Toyota has designated the bolts that hold the caliper to the knuckle as non-reusable parts. Replacement bolts are readily available. Some remanufactured calipers include new bolts. When removing the pads or pushing back the pistons, use the correct tool. A brake pad spreader can not only save time, but also prevent damage to the piston boots. The OE friction formulation on the Tundra is ceramic. A replacement brake pad should be of a similar formulation. The original pads on the Tundra come with shims. Do not lubricate the back of the pad with any lubricant. The lubricant will only transfer onto the piston boots and cause them to attract debris. This can lead to an early failure. Pulsation is an issue with some 2007-2009 Tundra models. Most of the issues are related to excessive runout or uneven deposits of friction material on the rotor. The runout specification on the
The 2007 Tundra is equipped with disc rear brakes with the parking brake in the hub. The caliper is a floating design with a single piston. The OE friction formulation is ceramic. The OE backing plate uses a clip-style shim. According to Toyota, the abutment clips and guide pin boots are non-reusable parts that should be replaced if the pads are serviced. The guide pins should be lubricated with a brake-specific lubricant that is not petroleum based.
PARKING BRAKE To adjust the parking brake, insert an adjustment tool into the adjustment hole on the disc. 1. Rotate the adjustment wheel in the "X" direction until the shoes are locked. 2. Rotate the adjustment wheel in the "Y" direction 8 notches. 3. Check that the disc can be rotated smoothly. If not, rotate the adjustment wheel in the "Y" direction and check again. 4. Install the hole plug.
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BrakeJob
SPECS Front Pad New Thickness: 11.9 mm (.469”) Front Pad Minimum Thickness: 1 mm(.0394”) Front Rotor Minimum Thickness: 29 mm (1.14”) Front Rotor Runout Limit: .05 mm (.00197”) Front Caliper Bolt Torque: 73 ft.-lbs (Toyota recommends new bolts) Front Brake Line: 10 ft.-lbs Rear Pad New Thickness: 12 mm (.472”) Rear Pad Minimum Thickness: 1 mm (0.0394”) Rear Rotor Runout Limit: .2 mm (0.00787”) Rear Caliper Bracket: 70 ft.-lbs Rear Caliper Guide Pins: 65 ft.-lbs Rear Brake Line Union Bolt: 22 ft.-lbs Parking Brake Travel: 6-9 clicks Parking Brake Shoe Thickness: 1 mm (.0394”) Parking Brake Maximum Drum Diameter: 241 mm (9.49”) Lug Nut Torque: 97 ft.-lbs (Aluminum) 154 ft.-lbs (Steel) ■ BrakeandFrontEnd.com 23
TPMS
By Andrew Markel | Editor
Stocking, Selling and Installing
TPMS Sensors & Service Kits 1. Be prepared! Buy an assortment of TPMS sensor service kits. Even if your shop sells only a few tires a week, it pays to stock an assortment of service kits. If you are installing cloned or programmable sensors, make sure you have service kits for those sensors. Most tire product suppliers have cabinets filled with the kits you will need most. Not having the parts to service sensors might leave a car stuck in a bay that could be used for other repairs. 2. Stock replacement sensors. In the past two years, the number of replacement sensor product lines has increased dramatically. This growth and competition has also lowered prices and part numbers to the point that stocking replacement sensors that cover the majority of vehicles you service is now within reach of the average shop. 3. Every time a stem-mounted TPMS sensor is removed from a rim, it must be serviced — no ifs, ands or buts. This goes for sensors that are six months old to six years old. Bottom line: Do not reuse seals or stems. 4. Always use a new kit. The typical kit includes a nut, valve core, grommets and valve cap. Each component has a specific function and lifespan that is not only determined by time, but Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com
what happens when it is installed. Never assume that when a tire is dismounted the sensor and stem was not disturbed. By not servicing the sensor, you are creating comebacks. 5. Never reuse the nut. TPMS nuts are designed with anodized aluminum to eliminate the contact of two dissimilar metals that would create galvanic corrosion and material deterioration. The nut has a bonded lubricant to help provide the proper torque required for seating a new grommet, in addition to engineering advantages. If a nut is reused, the anodized surface may be scratched away and corrosion may occur between the sensor, wheel and stem. The nut may then be impossible to torque to the correct specifications or remove due to corrosion on the threads. 6. Never reuse the seals/grommets. Two grommets seal the sensor and nut to the wheel. The grommets conform to the mating surface of the rim. The instant the nut is torqued, it starts to take on the shape of the surfaces it is sealing against. This memory cannot be erased. If the seal is reused, it Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com
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Tire Pressure Chart
could cause a slow leak. 7. Always use a torque wrench. The torque specifications are measured in inch-pounds and not foot-pounds for a reason. As stated in Nos. 4 and 5, the nut and grommet seals are one-use items. The nuts are made of aluminum and will strip. The hollow stems can take only so much abuse before they break. 8. A leak will not be eliminated by tightening the nut more. The sealing grommets are engineered to work at a specific torque. Any torque above the specified value will cause the seal to leak, and extra force may damage the nut and stem or fracture the sensor body. 9. Never reuse the valve stem. Replacing the valve stem core on TPMS sensors prevents leaks. The elastomeric rubber and plastics degrade over time due to heat. The valve stem is subjected to heat from both the brakes and road. A torque-calibrated driver should be used to tighten the valve core. 9. Always use the valve core that comes in the kit. A TPMS valve core is nickel-plated and prevents galvanic corrosion and ensures the integrity of the primary seal. To prevent galvanic corrosion, never use a brass valve core with an aluminum TPMS sensor. Instead, always use a nickel-plated valve core with an aluminum TPMS sensor. If the wrong valve core is used, accelerated galvanic corrosion could result in the core becoming “frozen” and seized, stuck in the stem and unable to be removed. TPMS valve cores also have special Teflon coating that helps seat and seal the stem. Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com
TPMS 10. Set the correct tire pressure. Seasonal temperature changes can dramatically alter tire pressure, which can cause the tire pressure warning lamp to illuminate. “Cold” tire pressure, as shown on a vehicle’s tire pressure label, is the pressure in a tire that has been parked outdoors and not been driven in four hours. Tire pressure drops about 1 psi for every 10º F drop in ambient temperature. Additionally, air escapes the tire and rim naturally, causing as much as a 1.5 psi drop per month. 11. Take extra care when mounting and dismounting tires. When you are using a tire changer, always be aware of the TPMS sensor location and avoid all possible contact with shovels, bead breakers and tire irons. Some Ford sensors are mounted on the rim 180º from the valve stem. ■
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BrakeandFrontEnd.com 25
➞
AlignmentSpec
Sponsored by: By Andrew Markel
Hyundai Elantra
T
he current platform of the Hyundai Elantra shares a lot in common with the other current Kia and Hyundai models. The simple architecture of a MacPherson strut front suspension and rear twist beam axle is starting to become standard on all small and mid-sized offerings. The Elantra is a “net-build” vehicle with no built-in adjustments, but adjustments can be made with aftermarket parts.
FRONT SUSPENSION The front suspension is a MacPherson strut setup. The lower control arm isolates harshness and vibration with a large bushing in the front. Always inspect this bushing for damage. Look for any separation of the rubber from the metal. Always make note of tire wear. The stock tires will wear the inside edges if a customer does not rotate them — this is normal. Like most new vehicles, the Elantra does not have any built-in adjustments for caster and camber, but they can be made by installing cam bolts on the strut. Too much positive camber results in a car
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AlignmentSpec that pulls or drifts depending on the amount of cross camber. Hyundai recommends the cross caster should be less than 0.5 degrees. Hyundai recommends checking the steering axis inclination (SAI)
with an alignment system that can perform a caster sweep. This helps to check for damaged components when the SAI difference between the left and right sides is more than 1º. If SAI is lower on one side of the vehicle, it may
indicate a bent lower control arm. If SAI is higher on one side of the vehicle, it may indicate damage to the upper strut mount. The subframe cannot be moved to alter alignment angles.
REAR SUSPENSION The rear suspension on the Elantra is a trailing beam axle. The previous model used a multilink setup and, while this is almost bulletproof, the axle can be tweaked by moderate impact over time with curbs and potholes. There are no built-in adjustments for toe or camber. Adjustments can be made by installing a shim between the axle and wheel-bearing hub. Hyundai recommends checking thrust angle and set back before performing adjustments in the front. Failing to do this could result in an off-center steering wheel.
STEERING The Elantra uses electric power steering called MDPS (Motor Driven Power Steering). The system requires a scan tool for the initialization of replacement parts and the calibration or absolute steering position (ASP) reset of the steering position sensor after a toe adjustment. The steering position sensor is a light sensor that uses three wheels with shutters to determine the position. Two sensors measure the steering angle, while another measures straight ahead.
ALIGNMENT SPECS Front Toe: 0.12° ± 0.2° Front Camber: -0.5 ± 0.5° Front Caster: 4.10° ± 0.5° Rear Toe: lL-Rl ≤ 0.23° Rear Camber: -1.5° ± 0.5° ■ Reader Service: Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com
28 March 2014 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com
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CheapBrakeJobs
By Andrew Markel
E
ver since the 1930s, there has been a war on the price of brake jobs. Eighty years ago, shops were advertising lowpriced brake relines on sandwich boards for $19.99, but they complained about “gyps� selling brake jobs for $9.99 on the side of the road. We see almost the same situation today. Some car dealers, chains and independent shops still chase the cheapest brake job. This time the price point is around $150. Instead of gyps, shops are complaining about some guy on Craigslist who will perform a brake job for around $40 if he is provided with the pads. Shops that chase the cheapest brake job do so for a few reasons, the biggest being they are afraid of costing more than the competition down the street and maybe losing a customer. Some almost treat the brake job as a loss leader to get customers in the door so they can inspect
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the vehicle. While this might work for some retail businesses, it will not work for a traditional repair shop building long-term customer growth and profitability.
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CheapBrakeJobs CHEAP BRAKES = CHEAP RESULT Most factory labor times call for 0.9 hours to just replace the pads. To replace a rotor is about 0.2 to 0.4 hours depending on the vehicle. According to the most recent Brake & Front End Shop Profile, the average labor rate is $72 per hour. With 0.9 hours, or about $65, the profit margins start to get thin. Brake jobs finished in less than 0.9 hours require short cuts that are not recommended, such as not measuring for runout in the rotor or hub and not cleaning and lubricating the guide pin and slides. Then there is sourcing the pads. Cheap pads exist at the bottom, but by cutting these corners, you are drastically decreasing the life of the pads, the safety of the vehicle and customer satisfaction. Shops that perform cheap brake jobs are making a dangerous assumption that their average customer only needs a certain performance quality to get around town and will sacrifice that higher quality for price. But little old ladies drive with two feet. Trucks tow boats. Is it really
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worth taking those risks that come with installing cheap brake pads in order to advertise and maybe make a profit on a brake job special?
THE VALUE OF QUALITY Buying a quality brake pad is like buying medicine. When you are buying a legal drug, you are not just paying the cost to manufacture, package and market the pill. The bulk of what you are paying for is research and development. The same is true for brake pads. Aftermarket brake pads require a great deal of testing and engineering because they are made for a specific vehicle. A quality brake pad manufacturer will spend a lot of time and money developing a brake pad application for your vehicle. This includes simulated and on-the-vehicle testing. These types of tests are time and equipment intensive. A brake dynamometer, for example, can be more sophisticated and larger than an engine dynamometer. Brake dynamometers can simulate the conditions the brake system will experience in a much shorter
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CheapBrakeJobs time. This means that a brake dynamometer can simulate the mass, inertia and performance capabilities of a vehicle. The typical brake dynamometer can cost anywhere between $250,000 (used) to more than $1 million. Some brake friction suppliers own dynamometers, while some lease dynamometers from testing companies.
ROTOR SERVICE There is usually a disclaimer on most cheap brake job banners that says: “Machining of rotors or drums extra.” Not addressing the rotors every brake job is setting your shop up for a comeback that can destroy any profit from any cheap brake job. If you look at most OE pad replacement procedures, they typically say that if the rotor is within specifications, you do not need to machine the rotor (assuming you are taking the time during a brake job to measure runout and thickness variation). But these procedures assume that exact same friction material on the vehicle. With some ceramic and NAO pads, a transfer layer of friction material is bonded to the rotor’s surface. The layer is always being worn and replenished by the brake pad during braking. This layer cannot be washed away by water or an abrasive disc and can only be removed with a brake lathe. If this layer is not removed, the new pads can become contaminated and not perform to their full potential. At minimum, you should be checking thickness and runout. Use of an on-the-car brake lathe or runout correction plates take time, so you should charge for it.
HARDWARE IS NEVER EXTRA Cheap brake job coupons almost always come with the clause: “hardware extra.” But new hard34 March 2014 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com
ware is critical to protecting the driver’s investment in a proper brake job. Heating and cooling cycles can weaken springs and anti-rattle clips. Weak hardware parts can result in excessive caliper/pad movement or binding, which will cause noise and other related problems. This can lead to uneven and premature pad wear, warped rotor and pulling. Most floating brake calipers use a rubber or plastic insulator or shim around the mounting bolts of the caliper. As materials wear, they start to flatten into an oval shape due to the torque from the brakes, which can cause excessive caliper movement. Torn boots can also allow water to enter the guide pin holes, causing rattles and thumps even if the brakes are not applied. Hardware protects the pads and ensures that they will last.
ASK YOUR BEST CUSTOMERS Cheap brake jobs can artificially inflate car counts in the short term, but they attract customers that will not build your business’ bottom line in the long term. Look at your top customers. For most shops, these top customers account for a large percentage of your revenue and even more of the profit. They come in more than once and recommend your shop to their friends. If you ask them why they come to your shop, chances are they will not say price. They will typically say trust and service. Cheap brake jobs are also an inventory issue. Your shop has only so many hours of labor it can sell a day. A fixed-price hour of labor for a cheap brake job is not as profitable as an hour of labor for a major undercar repair — but not doing brake jobs isn’t a solution either. The solution is to perform brake jobs that use the best quality parts with labor prices that reflect reality and not what the guy down the street is willing to take. The customer really wants more than price. ■
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‘Smart’ Rotor Service BrakeLathe
By Andrew Markel | Editor | @andrewmarkel
When it comes to returning brake rotors to “like new” condition, it is a two-step process that can be different every time. If the vehicle has a pulsation symptom or complaint, it pays to perform a diagnostic check before machining the rotor in terms of both time and additional parts sales.
INITIAL CHECK
SYMPTOM-BASED DIAGNOSIS
1. Hold the rotor in place with the lug nuts. Conical washers may be required on some vehicles.
1. If the vehicle has a pulsation problem or other unusual symptoms, it may be necessary to perform a pre-machining diagnosis with a dial indicator to determine if machining the rotor will resolve the problem. This stage can save time by isolating the problem.
2. At this point on the rotor, it has .005” of runout. Mark this point on the hub of the rotor and the closest lug bolt (indexing). Reinstall the rotor with the high spot 180º from the previous position of the hub and measure the runout. This check can give you an idea if the runout is in the rotor or in the hub. 3. Clean the hub’s mounting face.
2. Measure the rotor’s thickness and determine if it can be machined. If no out-of-the-ordinary problems are present, you can now proceed to machining the rotor.
USING AN ON-THE-CAR LATHE 1. Mount the on-the-car lathe’s adapter to the rotor. Make sure the adapter is right for the vehicle and it is torqued down properly. 2. Every on-the-car lathe has its own lateral runout compensation method. Alway follow the recommended procedures.
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4. Up to .009” of lateral runout over factory specification can be corrected using a tapered runout correction plate that fits between the rotor and flange. These can be used alone or with an on-the-car brake lathe. Using these shims in conjuction with an on-the-car brake lathe can minimize the amount of material removed and create a more thermally balanced machined rotor. 5. Measure the runout at the hub’s face with the dial indicator. The amount of runout at the hub’s flange is a constant and cannot be machined out, only replacement can resolve the problem.
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BrakeLathe
3. Set the cutting bits to the appropriate cutting depth. 4. Once the cutting depth is set, bring the cutting head to the inside edge of the rotor’s surface. 5. Start the final cut. On some lathes, you can adjust the speed of the spindle and crossfeed.
• If you performed a “symptom-based diagnosis,” you might want to confirm that there is no runout. Always measure at three points. FINAL ASSEMBLY
6. Make sure you catch all the metal particles.
1. Clean the rotor to remove all metal particles from the surface. Install the new pads and attach the caliper.
7. Measure the thickness of the rotor at three points.
2. Reinstall the wheel with either a torque stick or torque wrench. ■
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BallJoint
By Andrew Markel
Measuring
Ball Joint Wear Detecting and measuring wear in a ball joint is critical to ensuring the safety of a vehicle. When a ball joint fails, the driver loses control of the vehicle. This can result in damage not only to the suspension, but also the axle shafts, brakes and even the body.
TYPES OF BALL JOINTS A ball joint is made up of a housing, ball stud, bearings, end cover and Belleville washer or spring. A Belleville washer is a conical-shaped spring designed to be loaded in the axial direction. The joint is attached to a control arm by pressing or riveting the joint into the arm. If the joint is pressed into the arm, it will require a special tool to remove the old joint and install the new one. Failed pressed joints can be difficult to remove because of corrosion between the control arm and joint. This is especially true when a steel ball joint housing is pressed into an aluminum control arm. When the joint is riveted to the control arm, the rivets are drilled out or cut with an air chisel. The new joint is replaced using bolts and locking nuts.
1) Loaded Joint: A loaded joint is designed to support the weight of the vehicle and a follower joint that positions
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BallJoint BEARING THE LOAD? Ball joints can be broken down into the loadbearing and non-load-bearing categories. A loadbearing ball joint is designed to support the weight of the vehicle while providing a hinge point for the steering system. Most load-bearing ball joints are designed to cancel the effects of normal wear by centering themselves in their own sockets. Non-load-bearing ball joints, on the other hand, are designed to maintain precise dimensional tolerances in a steering or suspension system. Wear in a non-load-bearing ball joint will cause a noticeable change in the camber, caster or toe angle of a front suspension. Consequently, nonload-bearing joints are preloaded in order to compensate for wear. Unloaded control arm ball joints, for example, should be tested for preload when the suspension system is disassembled.
the control arm or strut assembly. A lower control arm that is connected to the spring uses a loaded ball joint to connect the steering knuckle to the upper control arm follower ball joint in an SLA suspension. The ball joint also allows the steering linkage to rotate the steering knuckle.
2) Follower Joint: A strut suspension uses a follower ball joint to connect the lower control arm, steering knuckle and the strut. The upper strut mount assembly usually contains a thrusttype bearing to support the weight of the vehicle and allow the steering linkage to rotate the strut and steering knuckle.
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BrakeandFrontEnd.com 41
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BallJoint
BALL JOINT WEAR Some ball joints that have a grease fitting use the fitting as a wear indicator. If a grease gun will not couple to the fitting, the joint needs to be replaced. As the joint wears, the Belleville washer or spring sustains the tension on the bearings to maintain zero axial endplay as the control arms move — the Belleville washer or spring will not compensate for lateral wear. Lateral wear causes the ball stud to move inside the bearing, which can affect camber and tire wear. Loaded Joint: To check a loaded ball joint, place a jack or jack stand under the lower control arm to support the weight of the vehicle. Attach a dial indicator to the lower control arm and locate the dial in a vertical position to measure axial runout at the steering knuckle. In the case of an AWD front ride strut or independent RWD, it may be necessary to mount the dial at the CV joint. Moving the steering knuckle can check lateral runout. For an SLA suspension that has the coil spring over the top arm, the upper joint is loaded. To check the joint, support the upper control arm to unload the joint. If the ball joint has a built-in wear indicator, joint play should be checked with the vehicle on its wheels.
MAKING AN INSPECTION
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BallJoint Follower Joint: To check a follower-type joint, the Belleville washer or spring is loaded or compressed to check for axial end play. For a strut-type suspension, place a jack stand under the cradle to allow the strut to fully extend. Attach the dial indicator clamp to the lower control arm and locate the dial in a vertical position to measure axial runout at the steering knuckle. Place a jack under the ball joint and load the joint by raising the jack. Turn the steering wheel and observe the ball joint to check lateral runout. For an SLA suspension, the upper control arm can be blocked and the joint can be compressed. Attach a dial indicator to the steering knuckle and locate it in a vertical or parallel position to measure axial runout at the lower control arm. Moving the steering knuckle can check lateral runout.
Tie Rod End Ball Joints: Tie rod end ball joints are more tolerant of wear. Provided an assistant is available to turn the steering wheel of the vehicle in a parked position, the dry-park testing method will indicate excessive wear in most tie rod ends. When a technician is working alone, the tie rod end can be compressed with a pair of water pump pliers while the technician looks for a change in toe angle.
FINAL NOTES The overall condition of the chassis is important to the safety and performance of a vehicle. In the area of safety, it is a good practice to cover your assets. Be sure the owner is aware of the conditions that could cause their vehicle to be unsafe, and convince them on the importance of proper repairs. If this is not possible, make sure that all safety conditions not repaired are made apparent in the repair order and a disclaimer is attached. â–
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Suspension
By Andrew Markel | Editor
1. YOU DON’T INSPECT SHOCKS AND STRUTS. Are you just looking for catastrophic damage? Do you only look at the shocks and struts when the driver complains of a noise or when the vehicle can’t be aligned? The first step in selling ride control is the inspection process. A visual inspection of the shocks and struts can tell you a lot about the state of the ride control units. This is a chance to make sure the vehicle is road-worthy before you put your own life at risk. Look for signs that the units might be leaking oil, such as accumulation of road grime or oil inside boots and dust shields. Keep an eye out for “witness marks” that indicate the suspension might have bottomed out recently. Make sure all bushings and hardware for the ride control units are still on the vehicle. Walk around the vehicle and perform the tried-and-true “knee-onthe-bumper” test. This test is not conclusive on its own, but it is a chance to quickly look for abnormal behavior. If you notice binding or looseness, or if the vehicle does not return to the original ride height, there could be a problem with the ride control components.
2. YOUR TEST DRIVES NEED WORK. When you don’t perform a test drive, you are not using your most powerful ride control tool: perspective. A technician or service Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com
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Suspension writer behind the wheel brings fresh senses to the vehicle that haven’t been dulled by thousands of miles. Before the test drive, you should have a clear list of symptoms and related conditions the customer might be experiencing. On the test drive, you should have a clear and methodical plan that inspects for ride control component replacement and other unperformed repairs. A good test driver will be able to observe conditions or problems with the vehicle that have developed so slowly the owner is unaware of them — like degraded shocks and struts. One of the keys to becoming a good test driver is to find a driving “loop” or route that has a variety of road conditions. A predetermined loop adds a consistency that helps you spot small problems. For suspension road tests, your test loop should consist of sections: a flat and straight section; an area to test braking and acceleration; an area with a dip or bump; and an area that offers both left and
right turns. Use a parking lot or rarely used section of road for the braking and acceleration section of the test. This test is used to detect brake pulls, torque steer and worn or loose suspension or steering components. Check for excessive nose-diving during braking. This is not normal and may be caused by worn springs or other ride control components. Excessive suspension bouncing may be the result of weak shocks; bottoming out of the suspension may be the result of weak springs. Check for steering difficulties that may be the result of mechanical binding or interference. Any excessive body sway could indicate worn springs, shocks or stabilizer assemblies. Listen for any excessive tire squealing during turns. This can be caused by incorrect alignment settings or a turning angle out of specifications. Developing a methodical and consistent test drive loop and procedure can improve your chances of coming back from a test drive with an understanding of the problem the owner is experiencing. Also, a plan and a loop can eliminate distractions that could lead to an accident.
3. YOU DON’T USE AN INSPECTION FORM. The technician should be supplied with a checklist to make notes. Some ride control manufacturers can provide you with printed forms. These forms help the salesperson be more confident in the selling process. A complete inspection lays the groundwork for excellent customer communications and increases the possibility of a sale. The results of the inspection can help personalize the sales pitch to the individual customer.
4. YOU CHICKEN OUT ON THE RECOMMENDATION FOR LOADED STRUTS. Even if the customer does not buy today, the inspection form, sales approach and pitch will likely Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.comv
48 March 2014 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com
Suspension stick with the consumer longer than the generic “recommend loaded struts.” They are more likely to return, which means your efforts will not be in vain.
5. YOUR CAR IS IN NEED OF A RIDE CONTROL TUNEUP.
7. YOU USE YOUR SQUINTED EYE AND THUMB TO CHECK RIDE HEIGHT. OEMs include ride height specifications and measurement pro-
cedures in their service information for many reasons. The main reason is that springs wear out. The ride height also can be used as a diagnostic tool to determine the condition of the suspension.
To increase your confidence in selling loaded struts, have new units installed on your own vehicle. You will be amazed at the difference if your vehicle has more than 50,000 miles. Also, you will sell more units because you have a better view of the perceived value. Some ride control manufacturers help you by holding local clinics where you can drive vehicles in different states of ride control degradation. These events are typically held in parking lots on specially designed courses that magnify certain vehicle dynamics at low speeds. These events can energize a shop to sell ride control products more effectively.
6. YOU ARE AFRAID OF LOSING A TIRE SALE. Tires are not cheap. When you get close to the sale, are you afraid to recommend new shocks and struts because the customer might bolt for the door when they hear the price for new loaded struts? You shouldn’t be. New shocks and struts protect the investment in their tires. By the time a vehicle is ready for its second or third set of tires, it is time for new ride control components. This is based on mileage and the expense and premature wear that degraded ride control can have on new tires.
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Suspension This involves more than your thumb and one closed eye. Research the factory methods and specs to properly measure ride height. Neglecting to do this can affect the life of the shocks and struts and all angles of alignment. Among other considerations, engineers design the chassis and ride control components so that the ride height places the suspension at a particular point midway in its travel. Midway is not always the center, however. Most springs are made of metal. As a simple example, take a coat hanger or welding rod and bend it in the same area several times. It will eventually break from metal fatigue.
8. YOU START AT THE BOTTOM AND TRY TO WORK YOUR WAY UP. Do you play it safe? Do you start with the least expensive option and try to work your way up? When selling ride control components, it is an effective sales tactic to start with premium products first rather than the economy or lessexpensive option. This gives you a little room to provide the customer options that meet their budget and vehicle life expectancy. Chances are that the customer wants the best. Starting the estimate with the least expensive alternative can lower your profit. Sure, quoting the lowest price might get some customers in the door, but it may leave some customers wanting more.
9. YOU HATE HEARING “NO.” It has been estimated by one shop that 50 percent of its ride control sales happen on the second visit. This means a large percentage of its first time sales pitches for ride control were shot down on the first try. Don’t give up.
10. THERE IS NO INCENTIVE TO SELL LOADED STRUTS AND SHOCKS. First, try increasing at least the number of ride control component inspections and recommendations to customers. Next, set a sales goal. ■
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GuestEditorial
NATIONAL CAR CARE MONTH By Rich White Executive Director, Car Care Council
Brutal Winter
Can Mean Profitable Spring During National Car Care Month
I
’m tired of hearing about winter, talking about winter and experiencing winter, and I bet you are, too. However, what has been the worst winter in a generation may in fact be a blessing in disguise for independent repair shops across the country. The harsh elements will leave many vehicles in need of service and National Car Care Month in April is the ideal time to capture your share of these service and repair opportunities. It is also a chance to improve relationships with customers and attract new ones, leading to more long-term business. Having a proper plan in place to capitalize on National Car Care Month is the first step. The
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Car Care Council website features a toolbox of information, promotional materials and suggestions to help you get started (www.carcare.org/industry-tool-box). Since there is no one-size-fits-all template for participating in National Car Care Month, the toolbox also offers a variety of ideas on how to incorporate National Car Care Month activities into your plans, whether you choose to host an event or participate on a smaller scale. Hosting a free community car care event during National Car Care Month is an inexpensive and highly successful way to enhance customer relationships, capture more business from current customers and generate new business. For a
GuestEditorial
larger community event, you could partner with other businesses in your area, as well as a local radio station. For a smaller event, you could offer free vehicle inspections right at your business location. The possibilities are endless. Whatever you decide to do, this is a tremendous opportunity to increase the goodwill and trust within your customer base.
If you decide to conduct an event, the Car Care Council has a point-of-sale kit available for use during National Car Care Month and throughout the year (www.carcare.org/pos-starterkit). The kit includes consumer education brochures, posters, bay banners, mirror hangers, vehicle inspection forms, an English/Spanish countermat and the very popular Car Care
Guide. In addition, the free digital version of the Car Care Guide is available as a reference for you and your customers. It can be found at www.carcare.org/carcare-resource/car-care-guide/. Free resources for your customers don’t end with the Car Care Guide. The council has a free personalized service schedule and email reminder service to help consumers remember to “be car care aware.” By sharing the link, www.carcare.org/carcare-service-schedules/customservice-schedule/, your customers can become more proactive in maintaining their vehicle and follow a service schedule with your help. Does your shop have a social media presence? If so, why not “like” and “follow” the Car Care Council on Facebook (www.facebook.com/CarCareC ouncil) and Twitter (twitter.com/CarCareCouncil). The council frequently posts helpful tips, videos and information, such as its new Maintenance Mondays posts, that can easily be shared with your own fans and followers. Participating in National Car Care Month is time well spent and gives you a chance to build awareness of your business, increase car counts and educate consumers on how much of their vehicle’s maintenance is going unchecked. Don’t sit out this National Car Care Month. Start planning today for what could be the start of a real game changer for your business. For more information on National Car Care Month and the Be Car Care Aware campaign, visit www.carcare.org. ■ BrakeandFrontEnd.com 53
TechTips This month is sponsored by:
Honda:
Brake Pedal Feels Hard in the Mornings or in Cold Weather Models: 2006-‘07 Honda Civic with automatic transmission Symptom: The brake pedal can feel hard during the first couple of brake applications, usually in the morning when the ambient temperature is cold. Probable Cause: At cold start, in high altitude, combined with the fast idle retard operation, the intake manifold vacuum supply is at its lowest, resulting in low booster assist. Corrective Action: Replace the brake booster and the master cylinder rod seal, and update the PGM-FI software using the reflash capable scan tool.
Figure 2
Repair Procedure 1. Position the wiper blades in the upright position to keep them from interfering with the cowl cover. 2. Remove the center cowl cover: a. Remove the three clips. b. Release the three front hooks from the edge of the under-cowl panel. c. Detach the clips by carefully pulling the cover up, then remove the cover by releasing the side hooks. See Fig. 1. 3. Remove the under-cowl panel. See Fig. 2.
Figure 3
Figure 1
4. Remove the top half of the air cleaner housing and the air cleaner element to gain access to the clamp. See Fig. 3. 5. Loosen all of the clamps attached to the air cleaner housing and remove the bottom half of the housing. 6. Disconnect the brake fluid levels switch connector.
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March 2014 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com
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TechTips Figure 4 See Fig. 4. 7. Remove the master cylinder reservoir mounting bolt. 8. Remove the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir with a syringe. 9. Remove the two engine wire harness clips from their brackets. See Fig. 5. 10. Remove the smaller engine harness bracket located underneath the master cylinder reservoir bracket (one 6 mm bolt). 11. Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder. See Fig. 6. NOTE: To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with shop towels. 12. Remove the master cylinder mounting nuts and washers. 13. Remove the master cylinder and reservoir together from the brake booster. NOTE: Be careful to not bend or damage the brake lines when removing the master cylinder. 14. Remove the brake booster. For additional guidance, refer to page 1927 of the 2006-’08 Civic Service Manual or go online and enter keyword “booster” and select “Brake Booster Replacement (R18A1 and R18A4 Engine)” from the list. 15. Install the new brake booster in the reverse order of removal. 16. Install a new rod seal on the master cylinder. See Fig. 7. 17. Install the master cylinder and reservoir Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com
Figure 5
Figure 6
TechTips on the brake booster in the reverse order of removal. 18. Check the brake pedal height and free play after installing the master cylinder and adjust it if needed. Refer to page 19-6 of the service manual or go online and enter keyword “pedal adjustment” and select “Brake Pedal and Brake Pedal Position Switch Adjustment” from the list. 19. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid and bleed the brake system. 20. Install all removed parts. 21. Update the PGM-FI software with reflash capable scan tool. Refer to Service Bulletin 01023, Updating Control Units/Modules. Courtesy of MotoLOGIC® Repair & Diagnostics: www.motoshop.com/motologic ■
Figure 7
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Brought to you by:
Shop
AutoCareProNews.com
Arnott Inc. announced the release of a new air suspension compressor/dryer for the 2006-2011 Buick Lucerne, including the CXL, and the 2006-2011 Cadillac DTS OE part number 25806015. Arnott’s air compressor with dryer for the Buick Lucerne and Cadillac DTS is new, not remanufactured, and made by the original equipment manufacturer. The powerful, reliable compressor/dryer ships complete with airlines, electrical fittings and vibration isolators. The pump with dryer is completely assembled, tested and ready for a straightforward, bolt-in installation. Reader Service: Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com
Available exclusively from Advance Auto Parts Professional and manufactured for superior stopping power, Wearever Brake Rotors feature vanes with a harmonic design and non-directional finish that improve cooling, eliminate brake noise and enhance pedal feel. Wearever rotors resist premature warping and are built to meet or exceed OE standards. For more information on quality Wearever products, call your local Advance delivery location. Reader Service: Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com The PlatinumNAPAFilter offers technology for the latest advancements in synthetic oil and performance oil filters. Featuring a host of oil filter innovations, including wire re-enforced fully synthetic media and an ultra-durable Hydrogenerated Nitrile compound anti-drain back valve (where applicable), this oil filter provides the ultimate protection in the NAPA Family of oil filters. Visit www.napafilters.com for more information. Reader Service: Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com
Ranger Products, a division of BendPak Inc., is bringing a new tire changer to market. The R980ATF is equipped with a powerful variable-speed motor and gear box that work systematically at multi-speeds, allowing operators to match turntable rotational speed with varied tire and wheel combinations. Ergonomic controls are sensibly placed to minimize excessive reaching or bending, resulting in more jobs per day. The R980ATF works with a wide variety of wheels, including virtually all OEM and performance tire and wheel configurations. Reader Service: Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com
Shop STILLEN’s new AP Radi-CAL Big Brake Kits are now available. Coming from AP Racings’ Radi-CAL caliper, the company has released its new pressure-forged aluminum Radi-CAL caliper line for high performance road use and weekend track use. Using the latest industry software and brake dynamometer testing, the AP Racing Radi-CAL caliper was designed to implement the latest caliper technologies learned through more than 40 years of highly successful motorsports participation including more than 725 F1 Grand Prix victories. Reader Service: Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com
Solv-Tec reports that sales of its K-Seal one-step permanent coolant leak repair are rocketing both in the U.S. and overseas. A recent independent market survey in the U.K. reported that K-Seal is now the No. 1 bestselling total coolant leak repair, recommended by nine out of 10 K-Seal distributors. One concentrated 8 oz bottle (P/N ST5501) will permanently fix head, head gasket, block, radiator, heater core and water pump leaks in engines up to 12 cylinders.
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Harsh winter weather across the country has been not been kind to vehicles. PlastiKote Undercoat protects the underside of vehicles against the ravages of winter. Available in both professional and rubberized undercoating, PlastiKote Undercoat provides durable protection against rust, corrosion, moisture, fumes, dust, heat and cold. PlastiKote rubberized undercoating offers a flexible, non-asphaltic coating that contains no asbestos fiber, while professional undercoating delivers an effective sound barrier to reduce road noise. Reader Service: Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com
Hunter’s Quick Check inspection system, which performs a comprehensive vehicle inspection in under three minutes, uses new WinAlign 14 software to communicate with cutting-edge devices and provide valuable information about a vehicle’s alignment, brake performance, battery health, tire health and emissions. The Quick Check inspection system builds on Hunter’s patented alignment check system, which measures alignment angles that affect tire life. The alignment check takes only 58 seconds and produces total toe and camber measurements for both axles. Reader Service: Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com
Wagner ThermoQuiet Ceramic brake pads featuring the brand’s exclusive 2021-compliant low-copper friction technology have been introduced for 2014 Mazda 6 passenger cars and several other popular late-model foreign nameplate and domestic applications. Each new ThermoQuiet Ceramic pad features a highly advanced Wagner OE21 low-copper friction formulation that is 35 percent quieter and offers 15 percent more stopping power and up to 40 percent greater fade resistance than previous Wagner formulations. Reader Service: Go to www.bfeRAPIDRESPONSE.com
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ACDelco 22, 23 Advance Auto Parts Professional 30 ADVICS 21 Akebono Corporation 3 APA Management Group 11 Auto Value/Bumper to Bumper Cover 4 Automotive Service Equip 57 Automotive Video/AVI 17 Bartec USA, LLC 25 BendPak Insert, 58 CARQUEST Auto Parts 5 Ford Parts 7 GAAS Cover 3 Gabriel 35 Hunter Engineering Co. 28 Jasper Engines & Transmissions 55 K-Seal 15 KYB Americas Corp. 29 Magneti Marelli Offered by Mopar 16 Monroe Shocks & Struts 46, 47 Moog Steering & Suspension 42, 43 NAPA Cover Call Out, Cover 2, 1, 31 Nucap Industries 18, 40, 56, 61 O'Reilly Auto Parts 19
Advertiser Packard Industries Parts Master Perfect Stop Pro-Cut Intl Raybestos Brakes Schaeffler Group USA Specialty Products Co Stellar Automotive (Lube Guard) Tenneco/Monroe Brakes Tenneco/Walker TRW University Of The Aftermarket Foundation VDO REDI-Sensor
Page 41 45 44 38 Insert, 9 12, 13 48 49 32, 33 14, 50 27 37 24
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Why switch to PDQ? PRICES. Low prices. High Quality. Always. 1st time buyer? Order from this ad and receive these special prices.
Advertising Representatives The Tech Group Bobbie Adams badams@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 238 Jamie Lewis jlewis@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 266 Dean Martin dmartin@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 225
Call now to order or to receive a free 2012 catalog 1-800-434-5141 www.autobodysupplies.com
Sean Donohue sdonohue@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 206 Glenn Warner gwarner@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 212 John Zick jzick@babcox.com 949-756-8835 List Sales Manager Don Hemming dhemming@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 286 Classified Sales Tom Staab tstaab@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 224
62 March 2014 | BrakeandfrontEnd.com
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BrakeLights
The Tale of Sam & Joe Quality art never goes out of style. OK, so maybe you don’t remember “The Reluctant Student” from the December 1961 issue of Brake & Front End, but the message is as important now as it was then — maybe even more so. In the cartoon, we have Joe, who is content with his book of business and his shop’s operations. Why fix what ain’t broke? Meanwhile, across the street, Sam is constantly absorbing new information and trying to improve his service levels and industry knowledge. Over time, Sam gains more business while Joe runs into problems he can’t solve with yesterday’s training. So, are you more of a Joe or a Sam? Before you answer, pay attention to who is sitting in the front row, learning about the latest techniques and service methods in that last panel.
If Joe can do it, we all can. ■ 64
March 2014 | BrakeandFrontEnd.com
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