■ ROTATING ELECTRIC REVIEW
■ CAPTURING CONTAMINANTS ■ SHIMOLOGY 101
August 2013 TomorrowsTechnician.com
CONTENTS IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
UNDER THE HOOD/////////////////////12
Getting ‘Started’ in Electrical Diagnostics In this article, Bob Dowie takes a look at rotating electric (alternators and starters) problems within the Nissan line of vehicles.
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COMPONENT CONNECTION///////////18
Containing Contaminants Filters have long been a common maintenance item. But, with longer factory service intervals and “lifetime” filters becoming more common, you’ll need to know how often various filters really need replaced.
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UNDERCOVER//////////////////////////32
Shimology 101 The first thing to remember is that all brakes make noise. However, a quality brake shim can prevent brake noise during the entire life of the brake job. Read more on the importance of brake shims in the service market.
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Report Card: Clemson U’s Deep Orange 3 Project
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Finish Line: Team Oregon Takes First in Ford/AAA Contest
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Service Advisor: Handling Tire Rotations
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Engine Series: Discovering Toyota V8 Timing Belt Service
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TT Crossword
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Tomorrow’s Technician (ISSN 1539-9532) (August 2013, Volume 12, Issue 5): Published eight times a year by Babcox Media, 3550 Embassy Parkway, Akron, OH 44333 U.S.A. Complimentary subscriptions are available to qualified students and educators located at NATEF-certified automotive training institutions. Paid subscriptions are available for all others. Contact us at (330) 670-1234 to speak to a subscription services representative or FAX us at (330) 670-5335.
4 August 2013 | TomorrowsTechnician.com
Report Card
Deep Orange 3, a next-generation Mazda concept vehicle, conceived and engineered by Clemson University automotive engineering students at the Clemson University International Center for Automotive Research (CU-ICAR), made its public debut earlier this month on its South Carolina campus. The Deep Orange 3 project encompasses the engineering and design of a 2015 concept vehicle for Generation Y drivers. Showcasing the next level of Mazda’s “KODO motion” design, this concept vehicle utilizes the automaker’s distinct brand personalities in an exceptionally functional package combined with sustainable vehicle performance and responsive handling. While some may recall that the Deep Orange 3 prototype chassis vehicle was unveiled during the 2012 Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA) show in Las Vegas, the car was displayed minus the body panels. According to CUICAR, the vehicle’s body panels were designed by student Frederick
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Naaman at the Art Center College of Design in Pasadena, CA. Derek Jenkins, design director for Mazda North American Operations, said that to be part of a college program of this caliber that focuses not just on one aspect of a vehicle, but the vehicle as a whole, is an automaker’s dream come true. “These students have provided fresh and innovative ideas from sketch pad to sheet metal, and the final product truly speaks to that open dialogue and collaboration between the Art Center College of Design and Clemson University,” Jenkins said.
August 2013 | TomorrowsTechnician.com
Deep Orange 3 features a unique hybrid powertrain that automatically chooses front-, rear- or all-wheel drive. The unique powertrain concept was derived based on extensive analysis of the Gen Y market. The data revealed that Gen Y, as an environmental conscious generation, is willing to invest in sustainable powertrain technologies and also has a significant interest in allwheel-drive (AWD). Based on these findings, a throughthe-road parallel hybrid powertrain concept with a manual transmission was conceptualized. The powertrain architecture comprises of a frontwheel-drive concept using a downsized turbocharged 4-cylinder internal combustion engine and a rearwheel-drive concept using an electric machine. This configuration allows for regenerative braking, all-wheeldrive and power boost functionality. For the body, students utilized the innovative sheet-folding technology patented by Industrial Origami, which allows using lighter gauge material folded into complex, innovative, high load-bearing structures, formed with simple, low cost fixtures, at the point of assembly. For more information, visit: www.cuicardeeporange.com ■
edited by Tomorrow’s Technician staff Each month, Tomorrow’s Technician takes a look at some of the automotive-related student competitions taking place in this country, as well as the world. Throughout the year in “Finish Line,” we will highlight not only the programs and information on how schools can enter, but we’ll also profile some of the top competitors in those programs. Because there are good students and instructors in these events, we feel it’s time to give these competitors the recognition they deserve.
TEAM OREGON TRAILBLAZES TO WIN IN FORD/AAA NATIONAL CONTEST
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merica’s top young automotive minds were on display in June in Dearborn, MI, as two-student teams representing all 50 states engaged in a race against the clock – and one another – in an effort earn the title National Champion at the 64th annual Ford/AAA Student Auto Skills National Finals at Ford World Headquarters. When the dust settled, the duo of Logan Boyle and Cody Collins from Vale High School in Vale, OR, claimed the crown of America’s top auto technicians, registering the day’s top score under the guidance of instructor Drew Barnes.
“From connected cars to alternative fuels, automotive technology is advancing at a faster pace than we have ever seen and tomorrow’s technicians need to be savvy, innovative and eager,” said Marshall L. Doney, AAA senior executive vice
president and chief operating officer. “The Ford/AAA Auto Skills competition develops future technicians who will ensure motorists will receive access to quality repair.” With nearly $12 million dollars in scholarship
Did You Know… The road to Dearborn began in January, when nearly 13,000 high school juniors and seniors took an online exam testing their automotive technology knowledge that culminated with one team — Oregon — taking home the title of national champion.
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prizes in the balance, state winners gathered in Dearborn to solve “real world” automotive challenges – both digital and mechanical – in a timed competition that required a quick mind and steady hands as top auto students worked with wrenches and computers alike. With automotive sales increasing and innovative technologies becoming a bigger part of the manufacturing process, the Ford/AAA Student Auto Skills competition is shaping the next generation of auto technicians who will work on these vehicles. “Ford is proud to play a role in developing the technicians of tomorrow,” said Steve DeAngelis, Ford’s global manager of technical support operations. “It’s a challenging, ever-evolving industry out there and Ford is committed to providing the best, most comprehensive training possible and part of that is providing unique opportunities like our partnership with AAA on
this exciting annual competition. We share our congratulations with today’s winners and all the attendees – they worked hard to get here.” Beginning with a shotgun start, the student competitors (all paired in two-person teams) raced to their vehicles to review a work order that challenged them to diagnose and repair a number of purposefully placed “bugs” ranging from digital to mechanical and electrical. Once the repairs were completed, it was a race to shut the hood, fire up the engine and steer the vehicle across the finish line – where a scrutinizing judging team awaited. To earn the National Title, Vale High School earned a “perfect car” score by flawlessly repairing all the “bugs” without any demerits. Combined with the results of a written examination taken on June 10, their score allowed them to hoist the trophy as national champions.
The Top-10 Placing Teams for 2013 1. Oregon, Vale High School, Vale, Logan Boyle, Cody Collins, instructor Drew Barnes 2. Virginia, Fauquier High School, Warrenton, Samuel Eleazer, Matthew Jacobs, instructor Harlan Freeman 3. Maryland, Eastern Technical High School, Essex, Anthony Critcher, Brik Wisniewski, instructor Eldridge Watts 4. Illinois, Addison Trail High School, Addison, Roman Flores, Ashten Reich, instructor Keith Santini 5. Hawaii, Maui High School, Kahului, Mitchell Borge, Lawrence Paet, instructor Shannon Rowe 6. Kentucky, Lee County Area Technology Center, Beattyville, Bradley Creech, Corey Lykins, instructor John Lucas 7. Oklahoma, Eastern Oklahoma County Technology Center, Choctaw, Nicholas Brown, Ryan Jackson, instructor Jim Lafevers 8. Kansas, Newton High School, Newton, Kenton Bliss, Titus Minkevitch, instructor Robert Ziegler 9. Arizona, Marana High School, Tucson, Evan Cloutier, Kevin Reich, instructor Donald Zell 10. Connecticut, Platt Technical High School, Milford, Giorgio Favia, Michael Tracz, instructor Kirk Stankiewicz
Job Shadow In addition to scholarships, the National Champion Oregon team enjoyed an immersive, weeklong job shadow experience with 2011 Daytona 500 winner Trevor Bayne and his Wood Brothers Racing team, as they prepared the No. 21 Motorcraft/Quick Lane Ford Fusion car for the Coke Zero 400 in Daytona Beach – the famous site of Bayne’s spectacular win at age 20. “The Ford/AAA Student Auto Skills Competition is a great opportunity for thousands of students across the country who really love working on cars and want to get into Do you have an outstanding student or a the industry,” Bayne said. “I’m pretty excited to see these National Champions because really, this will help them group of students that needs to be recognized see they may be young, but they can work on the world’s for an automotive-related academic achievement? best cars themselves. And hey, who knows, I could end E-mail us at esunkin@babcox.com. up seeing these students on our pit crew one day!” ■
10 August 2013 | TomorrowsTechnician.com
Under the Hood
Adapted from Bob Dowie’s article in
GETTING ‘STARTED’ IN ELECTRICAL REPAIR SERVICE T his month, we’ll be looking at alternator and starter problems on the Nissan line of vehicles. Unlike some of the other topics I’ve covered where we can discover suspension problems while a vehicle is on the lift, or detect necessary brake repairs during a routine service, starter and alternator problems will likely get the customer to your counter, or the car on a tow truck, with a solid complaint related to the vehicle not starting as it should. Or maybe the warning light on the dash has caught the attention of the customer who was lucky enough to make it to the shop, or not so lucky as their car is being towed in having run out of battery power on the road. Whatever the scenario, the point is, the vehicle will usually have a solid complaint attached. But don’t be too quick to jump to conclusions. Like any other job, start at the service counter, as getting answers to the right questions is important to a successful repair. Whenever someone starts the conversation with: “My car doesn’t start,” my first question is “How did you get it here?” From there, you can talk about how they got it started. Many times, you’ll learn that jumping the battery did the
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trick; other times it will be “I just tried it again and it started.” I’ll then ask if they noticed the distinct “single click” noise heard under the hood when the key is turned to the start position, or did it click like a machine gun? Not too many customers are attentive enough to pick up that single click, but, if they do, it’s a pretty good bet that the starter contacts are failing. It’s not uncommon for this problem to be more prevalent on a damp morning and one that will not cause a problem for the rest of the day. It’s also much more prevalent on the gearreduction style of starter than on the directdrive starters (Nissan uses both styles depending on the model). The fact that the problem may be intermittent makes the diagnosis a little tricky. We usually like to duplicate a problem to confirm the diagnosis but, in this case, we don’t always have that option and have to go with what we know. A good tech will take extra care in this case to be sure there are no poor connections at the starter or battery, and that the battery is up to the task as the starter is installed. The starter contacts are available separately, so you’ll have to make the decision on the best route for the customer and your shop. We always
recommend installing a rebuilt unit so we have a warranted part for the protection of both the customer and the shop. Speaking of the battery, before starting any diagnostic process on the starter or alternator, be sure the battery is charged and the cables are clean. You’re not going to return the vehicle to the customer without servicing the battery, so why not make it the first step in the process and eliminate the question mark. Now, if the customer reported that the car made a sound like a machine gun, we know there was enough current to pull the solenoid plunger in, but not to hold it. If they tried to jump it with no success, they probably didn’t have a good connection with the other vehicle, or had a poor connection leading to the starter. Your challenge then becomes finding out why the battery is low.
The Switch Up
involves the electrical part of the ignition switch. Nissan, like many other carmakers, uses a bypass-type ignition switch that turns off power to accessories that aren’t required for startup when cranking. The problem occurs when the terminal that should have power in the start position, doesn’t. The starter terminal still gets power, so you’re faced with a strong crank and no-start condition. Sometimes, customers report that it seems like the car starts when they let go of the key, but you can’t count on that. The best place to test for this is at the start fuse in the underdash fuse box. With the key in the start position, this fuse should show battery power. If not, it’s a safe bet that the ignition switch is the culprit.
Immobilizer Issues Another crank, no-start problem that has probably caused more wasted time than any other issue, is when the key loses its memory and the immobilizer does its job of preventing the engine from starting. We’ve received lots of calls from shops that were fighting this one. The tip-off is that the injectors won’t
Let’s first look at some starter concerns that are common to Nissan, some of which are more prevalent on older cars. With the average car being 11 years old and the longterm reliability of Nissans, they will certainly be finding their way to your bays. On V6-powered cars from the early to mid-2000s, if you’re faced with an engine that sounds like it’s out of time when starting, but runs well once it starts, check the battery ground wire routing to see if it’s passing over the crank sensor. If so, simply rerouting the ground away from the sensor will straighten it out. We do this on all cars that get a new starter. We relocate the ground to one of starter mounting bolts from the original bracket. When doing so, it’s necessary to enlarge the eyelet on the cable a bit, a task that’s easily taken care of with a tapered ream. Another crank and no-start issue Fuse box location on the 3.5L V6 Nissan engine, a popular powerthat can be challenging and may plant for the Pathfinder, Maxima and Murano. have you looking at position sensors
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get a ground signal from the ECU. Actually the best tip-off is the security light flashing on the dash as you try to start the car, but it’s easily overlooked. This problem requires reprogramming the key, and, depending on your equipment on hand, you may be able to handle this in-house. Otherwise, it’s back to the dealer or calling in a well-equipped locksmith, if you’re lucky enough to have one in the area. Moving on to the charging side of the system, things are pretty simple. As mentioned earlier, most of these problems will come in with a complaint that the charge indicator light is lit. But like the security light, it’s easy to overlook that the lamp is not lit in the “key on-engine off” check lamp mode. I spend a lot of time reminding my techs to be sure all the warning lamps are operating whenever you start a car. Not only is the “lamp not lighting” an indicator that the alternator is failing, it sure won’t do its job of warning the driver that they’re running on battery power and will eventually be stuck on the road. This is not only inconvenient; it’s also a safety issue. We should all be familiar with diagnosing a nocharge condition and the Nissans will present little challenge on that front. Whatever equipment you’re using now to diagnose alternators will do the job. Most jobs will be out the door with a quality, rebuilt unit, a fresh drive belt and a good battery service. It’s the tougher ones we’ll talk about here. I mentioned the drive belt, and on the older Nissans you’ll see some belt adjustment assemblies that need some attention to get them functioning as they should or, in severe cases, at all. Trying to force the adjustment pulley with the adjustment bolt will often result in breaking the hard-to-obtain bolt or an unhappy customer returning with a belt noise. While the alternator is being replaced, be sure the adjuster moves freely; it’s a lot easier to service it while you’re there, rather than to have to go back later.
14 August 2013 | TomorrowsTechnician.com
Problems with Charging Nissan hasn’t been immune from harness problems that can affect the charging system. These problems can show up as a no-charge lamp, no-charge condition, or overcharging. We recently had a 2002 Frontier towed in with a no-charge complaint that resulted in the battery going dead on the road. The young man reported that the warning light did come on, but he didn’t make it the 20 miles needed to get to the shop. Since we start with the battery, it was obvious why there wasn’t much reserve available with all the cells being low. And, since the battery was not that old, a test battery was installed while the other one was topped up and charged. With the new battery installed, the charge light came on, as expected, and stayed on when the engine was started, and a quick check with a voltmeter confirmed it wasn’t charging. Parts were ordered and I assigned a young tech to the job. To his credit, it was done in a timely manner; the new drive belt was installed and the adjustment mechanism was lubricated. The charge light came on with the “key on-engine off” and went right off when the engine started. The problem was the 15.6 volts the alternator was delivering to a well-charged battery. This tech’s first thought was that it was a defective unit, but I quickly suggested he take a look at a wiring diagram and confirm the alternator is seeing what it expects. This truck enjoys a simple charging system that made it an ideal teaching situation. With only three
Alternator location on the Nissan 2.5L CVTC engine. wires and a ground, the diagram is easy to follow, and with some thought you can conclude that three out of the four are doing what they should. We know the charge warning light is working so we can safely assume that circuit is functioning, we have over 15 volts at the battery so we know the connection is solid between the alternator and the battery, and we know the unit is grounded and the ground strap is secure. That has us looking at the green/black wire. The diagram tells us we should have battery voltage at all times. A quick check at the alternator shows no voltage. The diagram sends us right to fuse 36 in the underhood fuse box where we find the expected battery voltage. So, we know why we have an overcharge condition, if the regulator doesn’t know what the current state of charge is, it will give you all it can. Now that we found the problem, we had to come up with a fix that would best serve the customer, which, in this case, meant a reliable, affordable repair. We checked at the likely places for a bad connection. We had current through the fuse box to the harness and solid connections at the alternator. We gave the harness a
good visual inspection for chaffing or pinching, and found nothing. Faced with the option of accessing and opening the harness to look for the problem, or the more cost-effective choice of running an additional wire from the fuse box to the alternator, the customer chose the less-expensive method. Good work habits and careful routing resulted in a solid repair that should last as long as that truck. I mentioned that this 2002 Nissan pickup has a simple charging system, and the good news is little has changed in the basic operation of the system. The latermodel cars have adopted what Nissan calls “power generation voltage variable controls.” This system monitors battery current and varies voltage to the regulator, reducing the load on the engine and resulting in better gas mileage. If there is any problem with the new system, the fail-safe is to let the internal regulator control output as it did in 2002. I’ll leave you with the usual words. This article certainly doesn’t have all the answers, but I do hope it gets you thinking. And, if you’re a young tech, I hope it shows you that it’s always easier to diagnose a problem after you’ve looked at and understand the TomorrowsTechnician.com 17
Component Connection Adapted from Larry Carley’s and Gary Goms’ articles in
Filter replacement: containing the contaminants
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ilters have long been a common maintenance item. But with longer factory service intervals and “lifetime” filters becoming more common, how often do filters really need to be replaced? There’s no simple answer. The safest advice used to be to follow the filter service interval recommendations in the vehicle owner’s manual (assuming the owner’s manual hasn’t been lost and that somebody will actually read it!). The problem with this recommendation is that some filters no longer have a service interval (such as most fuel and transmission filters), and the factory recommended service intervals for some filters and fluids (motor oil and filter for example) may be overly optimistic and don’t take into account the kind of driving many motorists actually do. A filter’s main purpose is to trap abrasive particles before they can do any harm. That’s true of air filters,
Although air and fuel filter maintenance is usually considered a "no-brainer" by most automotive repair shops, advancing OE technology is changing the way you should be performing air and fuel filter maintenance 18
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oil filters, fuel filters and transmission filters. As for cabin air filters, their purpose can be two-fold: to keep dirt and grit out of the HVAC system and passenger compartment, and to absorb and trap unpleasant odors before they enter the vehicle (in the case of dual-purpose cabin air filters). All filters, even “lifetime” ones, have a limited service life and eventually become clogged with dirt, wear particles, rust and other debris. So, the idea behind preventive maintenance is to change your customers’ filter before it reaches that point.
Air Quality Control Air filters also have much longer replacement intervals these days — assuming the motorist is not driving in an extremely dusty environment or on rural gravel roads. The typical factory-recommended service interval for many air filters these days is 30,000 to 50,000 miles. A realistic recommendation for air filter service on your customers’ vehicle is to inspect it at every oil change, and to replace it as needed, even if the factory service interval has not yet been reached. The difference in cross-sectional area decreases the velocity of intake air as it enters the air filter housing. This decrease in air velocity causes air-borne debris to fall out of the air to the bottom of the housing. This change in air velocity increases the life of the air filter and tends to dampen the throaty resonance of air rushing into the engine. Last, and most important,
this reduction in air velocity helps increase the accuracy of the MAF sensor by removing turbulence from the incoming air. See Photo 1. Unfortunately, many “tuner” or “hot-rod” technicians who replace OE systems with performance-aftermarket systems might not understand that modern MAF sensors basically measure the volume and density of the incoming air by measuring the change in current flowing through a resistor or wire as it is cooled by a smooth, non-turbulent flow of incoming air. This operating principle provides the MAF sensor with the ability to precisely measure air flow in grams-per-second increments. See Photo 2. While space doesn’t allow for a full discussion of MAF
Photo 1: Modern intake air systems such as this example are designed to remove turbulence from air flowing into the MAF sensor.
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diagnostics, it’s important to know that dirty MAF-sensing elements miscalculate the amount of air flowing into the engine, which results in an erratic air/fuel ratio calculation and a subsequently erroneous calculated engine load or calculated barometric pressure data value on a scan tool. In most cases, miscalculations caused by dirt and air turbulence actually decrease, rather than increase, horsepower and fuel economy. The fact that an air or fuel filter might remain in place for extended intervals should underline the importance of how we perform an air or fuel filter replacement. All too often, an inexperienced person may actually damage the air filter housings when changing a filter. Others may slip an air filter in place without cleaning the air filter housing or sealing surfaces.
Photo 2: Inspecting the MAF sensor for accumulated debris is a major part of scheduled air filter maintenance.
Photo 3: Perforations in the pleated areas can be detected by holding a bright light under the air filter media.
Needless to say, dirt leaking past an air filter for thousands of miles will not only shorten engine life, but will foul the MAF sensor, throttle plate and idle air control (IAC) systems with dirt. Even in an era of electronically controlled throttles, dirt accumulation around the throttle plate can change the base air flow enough to cause coldstart and idle speed control complaints. When disassembling an air intake system, always inspect the inside of the downstream ducting for dirt contamination. If dirt is evident, then dirt is leaking past the air filter into intake air chamber. Because dirt around the throttle plate can cause performance complaints, the throttle plate should be cleaned with an aerosol throttle plate cleaner. Never use an aerosol carburetor or brake
parts cleaner to clean a throttle body because those solvents might damage throttle shaft seals or peel delicate throttle bore coatings. An old toothbrush can be used to loosen hardened deposits. See Photo 3. Next, inspect the MAF sensor for dirt contamination. Although minor MAF sensor contamination can be cleaned with an aerosol MAF cleaner, remember that cleaning the MAF sensor usually won’t restore the MAF to 100-percent efficiency. Because a cleaned MAF will probably be operating at a maximum of only 80-90-percent efficiency, a MAF replacement should be considered. Next, lubricate neoprene hose fittings and duct attaching points with a light film of silicone or silicone grease to assist reassembly. Be sure to vacuum all
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debris out of the air filter housing and clean the sealing surfaces before reassembly. If the vehicle has a “snow screen” built into the air inlet, inspect and clean if necessary. Replace the housing if it’s damaged or distorted.
Fuel Filters Fuel filter replacement intervals vary from between 20,000 miles to 150,000 miles, to “lifetime” in some applications. Modern fuel quality is so good that many import manufacturers leave the replacement interval to the technicians’ discretion. In any case, it’s important to compare perception with reality in the modern air and fuel filter markets. Scheduled fuel filter replacements
are often ignored in the quick lube bays because they are more difficult and time-consuming to perform. Many modern vehicles also have the fuel filter built into a “fuel pump module,” which eliminates the need for scheduled replacements. In any case, an excessive load is placed on the electric fuel pump as it struggles to pump fuel through a clogged fuel filter. This is why many fuel pump manufacturers want new filters to be installed with their new fuel pumps. See Photo 4. When reinstalling the fuel filter, make sure that the retaining bracket and fuel connections are firmly attached before starting the engine. Incorrect installation techniques can create a fire hazard liability if the
Photo 4: The worm-gear clamps have been installed on this fuel filter for temporary testing. High-pressure fuel hose clamps should be used for a permanent installation.
For tank-mounted fuel filters, the filter should be replaced if the fuel pump is being replaced for any reason. New fuel pump modules usually come with a new filter as part of the assembly, but if you’re replacing the pump separately, you should also change the filter and pickup screen. fittings or hose attachments leak or become disconnected during normal driving.
Transmission Intercepted Transmission filters should be changed if the transmission fluid is being replaced, if repairs are being made to the transmission, or if the transmission oil cooler or lines are being replaced to keep contaminants out of the transmission. For dust-only cabin air filters, inspecting and replacing the filter every 15,000 to 30,000 miles is usually adequate, except for rural areas or dusty environments. For odorabsorbing cabin air filters, the serv-
ice life is about a year before the carbon granules become saturated and lose their ability to remove odors.
Oil Filters – More than Mainstream ‘Media’ To many people, oil filters are a generic product. They look for the cheapest filter that fits their vehicle and make their buying decision based on price alone. Oil filters do look pretty much the same on the outside, but what’s inside the can or cartridge (filter media) can make a big difference. Filter manufacturers use a variety of different filter media to keep the oil clean. Resin impregnated paper filter media has been around forever and uses cellulose fibers to trap contaminants. A high-quality paper filter element with evenly spaced pleating can provide good filtering
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efficiency. The typical OEM or standard replacement oil filter with cellulose fiber media will trap about 97.5 percent of most particles that are 15 to 40 microns in size or larger. Some filters use a combination of cellulose fibers and non-woven plastic or synthetic fibers to improve filtering efficiency. The different materials may be combined together or used in a multilayer filter element. These types of filters can have filtering efficiencies as high as 99.5 percent and trap up to 40 percent more contaminants with particle sizes as small as 3 to 5 microns. Non-woven synthetic fleece fibers also are used in some filters to increase filtering efficiency and capacity. One of the biggest challenges that all oil filters have to cope with today is longer service life. Though
THE IMPORTANCE OF CHANGING CABIN AIR FILTERS Cabin air filters are designed to protect the most important part of the vehicle — passengers. Refer to the following tips when explaining to customers how cabin filters can help them, and their vehicles, breathe easier. • Blocking contaminants — Designed to capture contaminants like soot, dirt and odors, cabin air filters are the first line of defense against airborne pollutants entering a vehicle in motion. When the filter is dirty or clogged, less air passes through the filter, making it harder to keep the air clean and flowing. Pollutants can cause a variety of problems, from headaches to allergies. • Extending vehicle performance — A dirty cabin air filter can result in decreased heating, air conditioning and windshield defroster performance caused by restricted airflow through the filter. Improper servicing or continued use of a clogged filter may also hinder a vehicle’s HVAC performance and shorten the life of vital system components. Vehicle recommendations vary, but the general guideline for replacing cabin filters is every 12,000 to 15,000 miles, or annually.
Did You Know… The most often replaced filter is the oil filter. It usually gets changed every 3,000 to 7,500 miles on most vehicles (except in Europe where they use different motor oils and typically go for a once-a-year oil change). On many latemodel vehicles, oil change intervals have been extended from the traditional 3,000 miles or three months, to 5,000 to 7,500 miles or more. On vehicles that employ a maintenance reminder light to signal when an oil change is needed, the reminder light may not come on for up to 15,000 miles or more, depending on all the operating variables the software considers when making its estimate. On some vehicles, additional input from an electrical sensor in the oil pan may help detect oil that is breaking down or is heavily contaminated with moisture. An important point to keep in mind with respect to extended oil change intervals is that many of these intervals are based on using high-quality synthetic motor oil rather than conventional motor oil, and a premium-quality oil filter which typically use a synthetic media that outperforms most conventional cellulose filter media. 3,000-mile oil changes are still recommended for severe service driving, OEM-recommended oil change intervals for “normal” driving today can range from 5,000 to 7,500 miles, or up to 10,000 miles or more. Many vehicles don’t even have a recommended service interval and rely instead on a “Service Reminder Light” to estimate when the oil needs to be changed. On some vehicles, the light may not come on for 12,000 to 15,000 miles depending on driving conditions! That’s a long time for an oil filter to remain in service. The best advice you can give your customers is to buy the best oil filter that is listed for their engine — especially if they are not changing their oil for 7,500 miles or more. Many premium filters can go 10,000 miles or more. In any event, extended oil service intervals of 10,000 miles or more require both synthetic motor oil and a premium quality filter. ■ TomorrowsTechnician.com 25
Service Advisor
Know Your waY around Tire roTaTions
T
ire rotation is a basic of vehicle preventive maintenance; it is a well-proven fact that tire tread life can be greatly enhanced by regular and timely tire rotation. During rotation, each tire and wheel is removed from a vehicle and moved to a different position to ensure that all tires wear evenly and last longer.
The vehicle owner’s manual should be checked for specific rotation recommendations. If no rotation period is specified, tires should be rotated according to the tiremaker’s recommendations. If irregular wear becomes apparent or if the wear rate on the tires is perceptively different (from axle to axle or across an axle), then the tires should be rotated in such a manner as to try to alleviate the condition. If done early enough, rotation can arrest or prevent the onset and/or progression of irregular wear. It is very important to understand the causes of the irregular or rapid wear prior to rotating the tires. First, each tire supports a different amount of weight due to the design of the vehicle. This unequal weight distribution causes each tire to wear at a different rate. Driving style – particularly aggressive driving – also can contribute to premature and irregular wear. If the problem is alignment-related or mechanical-related, it should be corrected during the process of rotation. If wear concerns are driver-related, suggest to the owner that he can save himself wear-and-tear on his vehicle and pocketbook by toning it down. Also, make sure you have the right tire for the application; some tires simply don’t work in certain situations.
Tires should be rotated every six months or 6,000 to 8,000 miles, according to tire experts. The Tire Industry Association (TIA) recommneds rotation every 5,000 to 8,000 miles.
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4x2 In a 4x2 application, the tires on the drive axle will wear faster and the tires on the non-drive axle will be more susceptible to irregular wear. The best rotation is front-to-back – moving the tire from the non-driven axle to the driven axle – to even out the wear. TIA recommends, however, that on a FWD vehicle, the front tires are rotated straight back to the rear and the rear tires are crossed to the front. The opposite is true for a rear-wheel-drive vehicle, according to TIA, so the front tires should be crossed to the back while the rear tires are rotated straight to the front.
Light Truck (4x2) If the vehicle has “all-position tires” with the same tread on all wheel positions and no retreads, and with single (instead of dual) tires on the drive axle, then the rotation pattern is simple – use the traditional X pattern. If the vehicle has a designated “steer” tire on front and drive tires or drive tire retreads on rear – the side-to-side rotation pattern is preferred. Rotate left front to right front, left rear to right rear.
Light Truck (4x2 with duals on drive axle) If the light truck has duals on the rear drive axle, then the fronts should be rotated side-to-side and the drives from sideto-side. However, the inside dual should be moved to the outside dual position on the opposite side of the vehicle.
Tire Rotation on an AWD Vehicle In AWD or 4x4, the X pattern is usually the preferred pattern (See diagram.) The front right tire is moved to the left rear position, and the front left tire is moved to the right rear position and vice versa.
Rotating Notes Before rotating the tires, a number of items should be checked. These include: • Make sure the tires have uniform tread depths, particularly across an axle. The customer should be told that if the difference in tread depth between the front and rear tires is more than 2/32 of an inch, the tires with the deepest tread should be placed on the rear axle. • Check to ensure the tires are inflated to the proper inflation level recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. • Inspect to ensure the tires are the same size, same tread pattern and same brand. • Never mix tire sizes, and never mix tire types (winter, summer, all-season). • Never mix radial and bias ply tires on the same vehicle. Continues on page 44
TomorrowsTechnician.com 29
UnderCover
Adapted from Andrew Markel’s article in
Shimo log y 1 01
How Br ak Can be e Noise a Fingern s Bad as a Chalkb ils on a oard
T
he first thing to remember is that all brakes make noise. When the friction material makes contact with the rotor, the coupling causes the brake pad and rotor to oscillate and vibrate. In engineering terms, this is called “force coupled excitation,” which means that the components are locked as a combined system that will vibrate at the system’s natural frequency combined modes of vibration. The driver hears these vibrations as noise. This is “ground zero” for brake noise. In layman’s terms, when the pads press into the rotors, it makes vibrations that become noise. Like dogs, humans have a limited range of sounds they can hear. If the noise is out of the range of human ears, there will not be a noise complaint or comeback (this is typically high-frequency noises). It is when these vibra-
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tions are allowed to transfer into the caliper and knuckle where they are lowered to the human hearing ranges that the driver notices a noise. Brake shims are not designed for adjusting spacing/distance between friction material and the rotor. Shims provide multifunction noise control as a component attached to the friction pad backing plate. A quality brake shim can prevent brake noise during the entire life of the brake job and will not dry out or be displaced over time like some lubricants. But remember, a shim does not do its job if it is left in the box. Brake shims have the ability to control noise in three ways. First, they prevent and reduce the transmission and amplitude of vibrational forces that cause excitation of the caliper, pad assembly and attached structure. This is accomplished by vis-
into the brake piston using elastomer interface coatings on their surface. Third, a good brake shim or insulator can act as a thermal barrier to ensure consistent temperatures across the entire face of the pad. This can help ensure consistent brake torque. High-quality brake shims are frequency and temperature engineered multi-layered products using varying grades of metal, viscoelastic polymers/bonding materials, elastomeric rubbers and fiberglass. High-quality brake shims usually start with a highquality metal plate. The shim manufacturer will select a grade of steel with the right hardness, thickness and dampening properties.
coelastic damping material inherent within the layering construction of the shim and method of bonding to the pad assembly. In layman’s terms, it prevents vibrations that start at the pad and rotor from being transferred into the caliper and knuckle. These vibrations are very small and hopefully the shim can isolate a vibration before it excites the caliper and knuckle. Second, a shim can add mass to the brake pad that can dampen vibrations and oscillations in the pad and caliper. Shims reduce reaction forces transmitted back
This OE-Toyota shim has two pieces. The function of this design is to isolate the vibrations of the pad and rotor coupling. In some cases, the OE might apply a moly or dry-film lubricant to the shims so the components can move.
This is just a small sample of the brake shim designs a manufacturer needs to make a line of pads. Every vehicle has its own specific performance requirements for the shim. Premium lines will use up to seven different shim materials.
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The elastomeric rubbers are applied to the steel in a controlled process that ensures the correct depth. These materials are then vulcanized to the metal to ensure that they will endure the harsh environment of the braking system. Engineers tune these layers to give the best NVH qualities for the specific brake system noise fingerprint or signature. If the shim is not making contact with the brake pad, it will not do its job since the pad/caliper assembly undergoes complex dynamic vibrational deformations due to superposition of the combined system natural frequency mode shapes that must be controlled by a properly attached insulator.
then those that have been slightly worn.
Blame Game It is easy to blame the pads when you have a comeback due to noise. When a customer hears a brake noise, it is not just the “pure” sound of the friction coupling. The sound they are hearing
is a product of the entire brake system, structural transfer paths through suspension components into the passenger compartment and amplified noise within the reflective wheel well acting as a reverberant echo chamber. This is why it is important to look at the entire system when it comes to diagnosing brake noise. ■
This is the back of the pad from a 2010 Buick LaCrosse. The shim dampens and isolates vibration.
Before you install any brake pad or shim, take time to look it over. Look at the overall finish and appearance of the parts. Test fit the part to see if the tolerances are correct. Some of the best brake pads have the insulator already attached to the pad set. This can help ensure the effectiveness in three ways. First, by putting the shim on at the factory it can prevent the technician from forgetting to put them on the pad in a dirty shop environment. Second, some pad and shoe manufacturers will use a heated hydraulic press that can properly cure the adhesive. Third, the brake pad manufacturer can use a process like peening and riveting to make sure the shim will perform properly. If the shim/insulator is not already attached to the pad, drop it on a hard surface and listen. If the shim makes a clinking noise and bounces around, chances are that it will not reduce noise and vibration. If the shim makes a solid noise when it is dropped, it probably will do a good job at insulating against noise. If a set of pads or shims do not look “right,” do not take a chance by installing them. It is easier to return opened unused brake pads TomorrowsTechnician.com 35
Engine Series
Adapted from
DiScOVering TOyOTa V8 Timing BelT SerVice OppS
I
n the grand scheme of vehicle powerplants, Asian import vehicles for years have been widely known more for their smaller, fuel-sipping fourand six-cylinder engines. In fact, if you ask any auto service techs if they have any Toyota V8 models coming in for timing belt service, you may get either a blank stare, or a question like: “What Toyota V8?”
The idea that there is a Toyota V8 needing a timing belt replacement seems to be somewhat unknown in the aftermarket. With a million or more potential timing belt jobs out there on the various models with belt-driven cams, it’s time to get up-to-date on the service of these engines. All are considered interference engines that “could” have serious damage if the belt breaks. And, on all belt-driven Toyota V8 engines, the water pump is also driven by the cam belt.
Toyota’s UZ-FE V8s
Photo 1
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The modern Toyota V8 we are familiar with was originally used in the Lexus LS series starting in 1989. This engine series (UZ) is still around in great numbers, though it has been redesigned and upgraded a number of times. The engine was even certified for aircraft use in a twin-turbocharged version! The second series 2UZ-FE (Photo 1) is a 4.7L with a cast-iron block, and was installed in the Toyota Land Cruiser
starting in 1998 as well as the Lexus LX 470. It has been available in other Toyota truck lines since the 2000 model year. With the addition of VVT-i technology (variable valve timing with intelligence), this engine became the standard engine for Toyota V8 trucks up to 2010 (2011 in the Land Cruiser). The other engine in the UZ series is the 3UZ-FE and at 4.3L and all aluminum, it was available only in Lexus vehicles or for racing-only models. The UZ engine has been replaced across the Toyota and Lexus lines by the UR series, which uses a chain to drive the camshafts.
Photo 2
Other V8s
Servicing Issues
The 5.7L V8 (Photo 2) is the sales leader in the Tundra and Sequoia. It is a UR motor, so this article doesn’t apply. With that in mind, when a customer calls in for an appointment, you need to determine which engine is in the vehicle before making any service quotes, especially at the recommended 90,000mile service interval that Toyota lists for the timing belt on the UZ engines. The other current Toyota V8 engine is the NASCAR engine known as the Tundra Racing V8. Designed, developed and produced in the U.S. by Toyota Racing Development (TRD), this engine is a pushrod design, and certainly does not have a timing belt.
Each of the various models that use the V8 engines have specific items that must be removed to allow access to the timing belt and allow room to remove the accessories, belt drives and timing covers. Repair times quoted are somewhat misleading for some models. If there are any indications of oil leakage at the front of the engine and a possibility of having to replace seals is necessary (cam seals), the repair time can double if the valve covers (see Photo 3) and camshafts have to be removed (VVT-i engines). If the camshafts need to be removed to replace the cam seals, it would be good to measure the valve clearances before disassembly so the necessary shims can be replaced in the process. Obviously, if there is any evidence of sludge buildup with the valve covers off, address the issue with your customer. Since the engines that have VVT-i rely on oil pressure to control camshaft timing, sludge can be a killer. In a search of pattern failures on these engines, it’s very obvious that the source of many problems is the use of non-OE or OE-equivalent timing belts. Tooth count and timing alignment markings are critical, especially on the VVT-i engines. Be careful to compare the replacement belt to the original for tooth count between the alignment markings, as even a half tooth might make you redo the job. A belt that does not have alignment marks identical to the OE
Photo 3
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Looking Back In actuality, the Toyota family of cars has had a V8 engine available for use since about 1963, just not in the U.S. That might explain how those old Toyota sedans (see sedan photo) could keep up with James Bond in a Toyota 2000GT in “You Only Live Twice” filmed in Japan in 1967. Both the 2000GT and the Toyota 8-cylinder V configuration engines were produced in the mid-1960s with help from Yamaha. This engine series was never sold in a car in the U.S., but was used in other markets until the late 1990s. This engine is often referred to as the Toyota “hemi,” as it had hemispherical combustion chambers.
belt should not even be installed. Another source of codes and driveability complaints after belt replacement is damage to the crankshaft position sensor reluctor wheel, that must come off during the process of replacing the belt. Extreme care should be taken to prevent any scratches or other damage to the wheel. Harsh cleaners or abrasives should not be used to clean this part or any of the pulleys or sprockets. Typical codes that are related to timing belt misalignment or potential sensor wheel damage are P0011, P0021, P0016 or P0018.
Timing Belt Removal Due to the size of this engine, clearances are very tight for the timing belt repair, especially on the smaller 4Runner (see Photo 4). The Tundra, Sequoia, Land Cruiser and Lexus car and truck models have more room, but are still tight for removal of some of the accessories. You will need a tool to hold the crankshaft pulley to remove the crankshaft bolt, and you may need a puller to get the pulley to release from the crankshaft. The rest of the job is pretty straightforward. Do not consider this article to be a replacement for the proper repair information for the model you or your another technician is working on. Rather, this article is intended to give you a heads up on some things to look out for; it’s not an instruction manual. Since the water pump is run by the timing belt on these cars, and you will be removing some of the cooling system components, include refilling and bleeding of the system, TomorrowsTechnician.com 39
Photo 4
or a complete coolant replacement, as part of the job estimate. As noted earlier, if any indication of oil leakage is observed on first removal of the timing belt covers, take the time to read through the procedure for camshaft removal and seal replacement before proceeding on VVT-i models. 1. Start by removing the ignition key and putting it somewhere known only to you. Once the timing belt is off, a touch of the key for any reason could spell problems. 2. You will need to remove the upper engine covers; use care with the plastic pieces. The lower engine shields could be left in place, but working around them would add time to the job. Due to a sometimes difficult-to-remove crankshaft pulley bolt, it’s much easier to remove the radiator (after removing the shroud), especially if you are planning to do cooling system work. You will need to drain the cooling
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Photo 5
system anyway to remove the water manifold. 3. The serpentine belt tensioner is released by putting a socket on the pulley bolt and turning it counterclockwise (the pulley bolt is left-hand threaded). Once the drive belt is off, you can unbolt, but don’t remove the various accessories (alternator, compressor, power steering pump). Toyota does a good job of providing enough slack in the connecting pieces to allow the various pieces to be moved out of the way enough to get the covers off and provide working room. 4. The fan is supported by a bracket and bearing assembly that must be removed. Keep track of where the various length bolts come from. 5. Before removing the covers for the timing belt, mark the timing marks on the cover and crankshaft pulley (see Photo 5) so they are easy to see. On VVT-i models, read and head the warning sticker pertaining to the timing adjustment sprockets. (See Photo 6.)
Photo 6
Removing the wrong bolts will cause a lot of headaches, and you can’t replace the camshaft seals from the outside. 6. Once the timing covers are off, in sequence, line up the timing marks, again making paint marks on the pulleys and rear covers to allow easier alignment. Now comes the time to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and pulley. It’s easy if you removed the radiator, but difficult at times if the radiator is in place. An old timer’s trick is to place a thin piece of wood or cardboard over the face of the radiator to protect it. 7. Once the pulley bolt and pulley are removed, recheck alignment of the timing marks. If they don’t line up perfectly (within ½ tooth), turn the engine over by hand, one rotation, and recheck. Turn the crankshaft approximately 50 degrees clockwise, then backward to TDC to relieve tension in the camshaft timing gears. The timing marks should be lined up at this point. See Photo 7. If not, determine the reason (jumped timing, failed tensioner, failed idler pulley bearings) and make sure that it’s corrected during the repair.
8. Remove the hydraulic tensioner by loosening the bolts alternately. Take the tensioner and dust cover out and reset and pin the tensioner. Check it for obvious leakage or weakness. You may need to rotate the right-side (passenger-side) camshaft slightly to relieve tension on the belt between the crankshaft and right cam.
Tips for Improved Installation 1. If you’re using an OE or OEequivalent timing belt, it should have three alignment marks and arrows pointing to the front. There should be obvious markings for the left and right cam and crankshaft. If there are markings remaining on the original belt, lay the two belts together and verify that the belts are marked the same. Reports of aftermarket, non-OE equivalent belts being mismarked are quite common. 2. Before starting reassembly, check for leaks from the water pump, seals or front engine cover area. Check for smooth bearings in the idlers and for any deterioration or scratching of the belt sprockets. Make sure that the cupped side of
Photo 7: Some of the marks can be difficult to spot unless they’re highlighted. This picture is from an in-line 6-cylinder model, not a V8.
then turn the crankshaft two full turns clockwise, back to TDC and recheck the alignment of all timing marks. If they’re not correct, start over with the belt installation. Reassemble in reverse order using a torque wrench on all fasteners to prevent pulling or damaging threads in the aluminum housings. 5. Refill the cooling system, using a vacuum-type filler system to prevent overheating due to air pockets.
Finishing Up
the crankshaft belt guide/reluctor wheel is to the outside, and treat the guide as a VIP (very important part). 3. Using the painted marks you made earlier, turn the cam sprockets just slightly to make installing the timing belt easier. Turn the right-side sprocket 1 tooth clockwise and the left-side a ½ tooth clockwise. Make sure the crankshaft is still aligned properly and install the belt with the printed marks lined up on the various shafts. Start at the crankshaft, then the left-side idler and camshaft, go around the water pump and then the right-side sprocket and tensioner pulley. 4. Install the tensioner hydraulic unit, tighten to spec and remove the retaining pin. Allow a couple of minutes for the tensioner to fully tension the belt,
There really isn’t anything about this job that is out of the ordinary. As you move forward in your career as a tech, you probably will end up doing similar belt replacement on the more common Toyota V6s like other professional technicians and engine builders have. Just realize that with VVT-i technology, some procedures and cautions need to be researched before you start taking things apart. Remember that the vast majority (70-90%) of Tundra and Sequoia models have the chain-driven 5.7L engine, so there is no timing belt. That also means that the other 20-30% will need a timing belt as maintenance, so there are jobs to be sold. The sheer numbers of these vehicles that have been sold over the last 20 years (Lexus models) means there are a lot of opportunities to provide service to your customer – better to sell as maintenance than a repair. Since these vehicles may have engine damage if a belt breaks or jumps time, preventive maintenance makes a lot of sense. ■
TomorrowsTechnician.com 43
CrossWord PuZZle
ACROSS
Tomorrow’s Technician August Crossword
1. Critical ignition-system component (5,4) 6. Safety-minded braking system (1,1,1) 8. T-top or targa (3,4) 9. Kill the engine by mistake 10. It's right on the map 11. Flat-tire description 13. Removes all parts from engine 15. Traffic tie-ups, colloquially 18. Dyno-measured engine output (3,5) 19. Multi-point fuel injection, briefly (1,1,1,1) 22. Slight adjustment 23. Seven-time NASCAR champ Petty 24. Dipstick word 25. Specification's permissible variation
DOWN 1. Ratchet attachments 2. "Give me 40 ____ and I'll turn this rig around" lyric 3. Stick-shift topper 4. Valve-train part 5. An engine fuel 6. 1/2" ratchet to 3/4"-drive socket connector 7. 4-Down component type 12. Timing-chain partner 14. Big-rig tire type, often 16. Stub-axle synonym 17. 5-Down, in the UK 18. Crash-test agency, briefly (1,1,1,1,1) 20. Crankshaft bearing type 21. Gross combined weight rating, briefly (1,1,1,1)
Solution at www.tomorrowstechnician.com Continued from page 29
The Bottom Line Tire rotation is an essential part of tire maintenance on all vehicles, and therefore is a key component of your customer service arsenal. It is even more important on AWD vehicles because the full-time, all-wheel drive system wears tires faster than other vehicle types. For this reason, it is important that tires on an AWD
vehicle are of the same size/diameter, tread design, brand, inflation pressure and tread depth. Varying from this regimen can cause components in the AWD driveline to be damaged and eventually fail. For more on tire rotation including medium duty trucks (6x4), directional tires and rotations with full-size spares, visit www.tomorrowstechnician.com. ■
Product Release BendPak/Ranger’s TS-150 Height Adjustable Tire Spreader quickly lifts tires to a convenient work height to make tire repairs infinitely more comfortable for the technician. The heavy-duty rollers permit tires to rotate freely, while the adjustable spreader forks accommodate both narrow- or widetread widths. Control operations, including tire lift and spread, are air-powered and use simple ergonomic air valves for operation. This convenient tire spreader is the perfect accessory for any well-functioning garage or shop. Visit www.rangerproducts.com for more information.
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