Underhood Service, January 2014 by Babcox Media

■ NISSAN VQ V6 WATER PUMP INSTALL ■ GAPPING SPARK PLUGS ■ DIESEL REGEN CYCLES A

MAGAZINE

Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

Publication

Fuel Pump Tank Cleaning Could you be dooming a new fuel pump to failure when you don’t take care of the tanks?

Diagnostic Pathfinder: Find Your Faults

CONTENTS

Contributor John Forro tackles a driveability concern by looking at what the technician needs before the car even comes into the shop.

4 Directions: ASE Test Review 6 Aftermarket Update 12 Gonzo’s Toolbox 14 Nissan VQ Water Pumps 18 Diesel Regen Cycles 24 Gapping Plugs 30 A/C Update 34 A/C Compressor Balancing 36 Tech Tips 42 Shop (New Products) 44 Rapid Response 45 Classifieds 48 Ultimate Underhood

Underhood Service is a member of and supports the following organizations:

Editorial Staff Phone: 330-670-1234 Editor Andrew Markel, ext. 296 email: amarkel@babcox.com Managing Editor Jennifer Clements, ext. 265 email: jclements@babcox.com Technical Editor Larry Carley Contributing Writers Gary Goms, Bob Dowie Scott “Gonzo” Weaver and Randy Rundle Graphic Designer Publisher Ad Service (Material) Advertising Services Subscription Services

Dan Brennan, ext. 283 email: dbrennan@babcox.com Jim Merle, ext. 280 email: jmerle@babcox.com Cindy Ott, ext. 209 email: cott@babcox.com Valli Pantuso, ext. 223 email: vpantuso@babcox.com Maryellen Smith, ext. 288 email: msmith@babcox.com

PRESIDENT Bill Babcox bbabcox@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 217 VICE PRESIDENT Jeff Stankard jstankard@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 282 Sales Representatives: Bobbie Adams badams@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 238 Doug Basford dbasford@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 255 Sean Donohue sdonohue@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 206

2 January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

Jamie Lewis jlewis@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 266 Dean Martin dmartin@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 225 Glenn Warner gwarner@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 212 John Zick jzick@babcox.com 949-756-8835 List Sales Manager Don Hemming dhemming@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 286 Classified Sales Tom Staab tstaab@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 224

UNDERHOOD SERVICE (ISSN 1079-6177) January 2014, Volume 19, Number 1): Published monthly by Babcox, 3550 Embassy Parkway, Akron, OH 44333 U.S.A. Phone (330) 6701234, FAX (330) 670-0874. Periodical postage paid at Akron, OH 44333 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to UNDERHOOD SERVICE, 3550 Embassy Parkway Akron, OH 44333. UNDERHOOD SERVICE is a trademark of Babcox Media, Inc. registered with the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office. All rights reserved. A limited number of complimentary subscriptions are available to individuals who meet the qualification requirements. Call (330) 670-1234, Ext. 288, to speak to a subscription services representative or FAX us at (330) 670-5335. Paid Subscriptions are available for non-qualified subscribers at the following rates: U.S.: $69 for one year. Canada: $89 for one year. Canadian rates include GST. Ohio residents add current county sales tax. Other foreign rates/via air mail: $129 for one year. Payable in advance in U.S. funds. Mail payment to UNDERHOOD SERVICE, P.O. Box 75692, Cleveland, OH 44101-4755. VISA, MasterCard or American Express accepted.

» Directions

By Andrew Markel | EDITOR

ASE Computer-Based

Testing Review: Thumbs Up

t’s that time of year when ASE credentials expire and it’s time to get recertified. When I paid the $200+ fee to ASE, I questioned if it was really worth it. No one was going to stop me from working on cars if it expired, or take the old certificate off the wall. But, it would have gnawed at me if I let the certifications expire. This was my first time using the new computer-based format, below is a short review of the testing experience for those who are getting ready to certify or recertify. Even thought I registered the last possible day for testing, I was still able to set up a test time on a Saturday at 1:30 p.m. with no problems at all. The testing center was in a strip mall about five miles from my home — very convenient.

Arriving at the Test Center Some people have made a big flap over the check-in procedures at the test centers. Some people have called the procedures “Gestapo like” and made them feel like a criminal. In all honesty, it was no worse than a TSA checkpoint. I had to place my belongings in a locker, turn my pockets inside out and had a metal detector waved over my body. But, the sock inspection was rather strange. My experience was favorable and the administrators at the test center were very polite. After

January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

talking with some other technicians, experiences can vary depending on the attitude and demeanor of the person conducting the check-in procedures. The two administrators I dealt with were former teachers and were very kind and courteous. ASE test takers are treated no differently than people taking civil service, medical or CPA exams. It’s just standard procedure. Just imagine your accountant, nurse or lawyer having to do the same thing.

The Test Environment Once you’ve been checked in, the administrator will walk you into a room with up to 30 people taking tests. You will sit in a cubical with a computer and scratch paper and they will provide you with headphones to help block out the noise. The testing program is easy to navigate and displays the remaining time you have to complete the tests. If you complete a test early, you can move on to the next test. You can flag questions to review later. I had no technical issues.

The Tests I took three recertification exams and two new certification exams. I couldn’t find any questions that were biased against imports or domestics. Just about all of the questions could be rationalized quickly if you have work-

ing knowledge of the system in question. Very few questions actually required knowing a specific value or number like the voltage of a dead battery or bad sensor, however, it does favor the more experienced diagnostic technician. It might just be me, but it felt like there were fewer technician A and B questions on the test this time around. My tactic was to answer all the questions quickly and flag questions I was not sure about or the wording was tricky. Then I used the remaining time to go back and review the questions. I was able to confidently finish each test with time to spare.

Post Test After completing the five exams, I was given my results after leaving the testing room. This is a lot better than the old paper method.

Overall There is no excuse not to take an ASE exam except if you live in an extremely rural area. Most testing centers can accommodate difficult schedules. The websites work well and are extremely easy to navigate. While the price for the tests may seem expensive at first, the certifications are good for five years. Also, you can’t put a price on your career. ■

Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

» Aftermarket Update

Brought to you by:

For free e-mail updates with the latest aftermarket news, tech tips and supplier promotions, log on to AutoCarePro.com.

Airtex Fuel Delivery Systems Announces Lifetime Warranty Airtex Products has announced that all of its electric fuel pumps and electric fuel pump assemblies will now be backed by a lifetime-limited warranty. Headquartered in Lake Forest, IL, Airtex Products L.P. is a U.S. automotive aftermarket manufacturer of fuel delivery products. The company designs and builds modular reservoir assemblies, electric fuel pumps, in-tank sender and hanger assemblies, and mechanical

fuel pumps for a full range of car, truck, fleet and specialty vehicles. “We fully stand by our products,” said J. Brett McBrayer, president of Airtex Fuel Delivery Systems and ASC Industries. “We felt it is now time that we had a warranty that reflected this confidence. We wanted to show that there was still a reason to choose a quality product; one backed 100% by the manufacturer.”

2014 ASE Certification Testing Schedule Announced

The 2014 ASE certification testing schedule has been announced. Note: Winter registration is taking place now through Feb. 21. Winter Testing Jan. 2 – Feb. 28, 2014 Spring Registration March 1 – May 21, 2014 Spring Testing April 1 – May 31, 2014 Summer Registration June 1 – Aug. 21, 2014 Summer Testing July 1 – Aug. 31, 2014 Fall Registration Sept. 1 – Nov. 21, 2014 Fall Testing Oct. 1 – Nov. 30, 2014 For more information, go to ase.com. Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

» Aftermarket Update Car Care Council Introduces

Maintenance Mondays The Car Care Council is making it easier to be car care aware in the New Year with the start of Maintenance Mondays. This Instagram-based weekly campaign will help drivers with visual information on car care. “It’s our New Year’s resolution to help consumers better understand car maintenance, and these days it is best done in images and videos,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council. With its new Instagram account, the Car Care Council will share image and video tips for maintenance every Monday and will also share them on its other social media channels. Videos will range from simple do-it-yourself videos and pre-

ventive maintenance tips to information on choosing an automotive professional when needed. Follow Maintenance Mondays by joining the Car Care Council on Instagram at instagram.com/carcarecouncil, or find them on Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest with #MaintenanceMondays. For a copy of the council’s Car Care Guide or for more information, visit www.carcare.org.

Federated Accepting

Nominations for ‘Shop of the Year’ Federated Auto Parts is now accepting nominations for the 2014 Federated Shop of the Year. Nominated shops will be evaluated on a set of criteria established by Federated and found on the Shop of the Year nomination form. The winning shop owner and guest will be awarded a three-night, four-day all-expense paid trip to Phoenix as Federated’s guest at the 2014 Federated National Meeting, receiving special recognition during the Federated awards banquet. “Choosing only one shop is a real challenge since there are so many highly qualified shops around the country,” said Phil Moore, senior vice president for Federated. “If you know of a shop with knowledgeable, professional service technicians, superior service and repairs that result in very satisfied customers, and active community involvement, that shop could be the next Federated Shop of the Year.” For more information or to nominate a shop, visit Federated Auto Parts at www.federatedautoparts.com/ShopOfTheYear.aspx. 8 January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

» Aftermarket Update GM Makes Transmission Control

Module Repair Easier With Release of Programming Tools GM Customer Care & Aftersales (GM CCA) is releasing the diagnostic and programming keys essential to repairing and replacing GM 6-speed automatic transmissions. As a result, Independent Service Centers (ISCs) will be able to access the digital tools needed to “flash” the component that gives the GM 6-speed its unique performance capabilities — the Transmission Electro-Hydraulic Control Module (TEHCM). The programming setup is easily accessible via a download that can be secured through a TIS2Web Service Programming subscription, GM’s next-generation Technical Information System. Seven subscription packages are offered. With a subscription in hand, all that’s required for a technician to flash the TEHCM is a J2534 device or scan tool.

For a limited time, GM CCA is offering a two-day TIS2Web trial subscription to ISCs at no charge (not available to subscribers in Massachusetts). When they purchase a GM 6speed replacement automatic transmission assembly between Oct. 1, 2013 and June 30, 2014, ISCs can access the TEHCM programming with the no-charge subscription. ISCs obtain a promotional code for the no-charge subscription by calling GM toll-free at 866453 4123 and providing their business name, contact information, transmission assembly part number, serial number and the VIN. The code is then used when accessing the subscription via www.acdelco techconnect.com. For additional information, contact your GM dealer or go to www.genuinegmparts.com.

AVI Offers G1 Test Prep Program AVI’s ASE Test Prep product line now includes the G1 Test Prep Program, which covers preventive maintenance and light repair services. The AVI ASE G1 Test Prep Program features instructor Bill Haas and helps technicians make the most of their study time by covering these areas: • General engine inspection, filter, fluid and belt replacement; • Automatic transmission/transaxles, manual drivetrain inspection; • Suspension and steering component inspection and replacement; • Brake system inspection, disc, drum, rotor, pad and caliper replacement (including wheel alignment); • General electrical related to starting and charging and lighting; and • Heating and air conditioning system inspection. To order, visit www.auto-video.com or call 800-718-7246. ■ UnderhoodService.com 11

» Gonzo’s Toolbox By Scott “Gonzo” Weaver

Automotive MD:

What If Insurance Covered Repairs?

hese days, the demand for expertise of a practicing doctor and a technician as it relates to the requirements of their job continues to accelerate. While a technician doesn’t need a degree to repair cars, he might as well have one with the speed at which the automobile has evolved and the vast amount of knowledge that’s required to fix today’s vehicles. So, with all of its professionalism and prestige, the automotive repair industry is sometimes portrayed in a negative light on the news and this really bothers me. There always seems to be some repair shop that has botched a job for a customer on the 10 o’clock news. The story is such that the customer is looking for sympathy and the news reporter is doing his part by detailing a fouled-up vehicle repair. Yet you hardly hear a thing on the news about someone getting over-charged or wrongly diagnosed at the physician’s office. There are other comparisons to think about. When a doctor is having trouble diagnosing a patient, he or she will refer him to a specialist. It sounds just like what we do in the auto repair industry, doesn’t it? The big difference is, the first doctor is still going to send you a bill. Then again, if we send a job to a specialist, we very seldom get paid for the time that we’ve already invested into the customer’s vehicle. Maybe if technicians had an “AD” (Automotive Doctor) at the end of their title things might be different and we’d get the same sort of respect. (Something to thwart those inexperienced wrenchbenders who are only out to take people’s money and do subpar work on a customer’s car — something that degrades the entire industry.) I get calls all the time from people wanting to know how much it will cost to fix their car. All they want is an over-the-phone estimate. Since I mainly do electrical repair, rewiring a complete car is nothing new for me, although giving an estimate over the phone is another matter altogether. Now how does that work if I call a doctor for an estimate? Can there be a price difference between doctors? Should I question him on what he/she is

January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

charging based on what the physician down the street is charging? Should I tell the doctor that “soand-so” worked on it before? From what I gather, it’s an insult to ask a doctor about price, other than the cost of an office visit. (Of course, there are those unmentioned fees that always seem to creep up when the final bill comes in). Insult or not, I find it rather amusing that there is such a difference in prices from hospital to hospital and “Joe Public” doesn’t have a clue or seems unconcerned about it beforehand or during the procedures. Then you get into the issue where the Joe Publics will attempt to repair things themselves. This unprofessional approach is probably the same thing a doctor runs across when someone tries to take care of a simple problem or use the Internet to diagnose his or her ailment, only to have it end up as an entirely different problem. Yet they still won’t ask the doctor “How much?” Of course, when the bill shows up in the mail, their chin drops to the floor as they gasp at the cost. (I wonder if a doctor has ever gotten a call from a client saying that their prices are way too high compared to the last doctor they went to?) While it may be a weak analogy, I’m trying to point out how consumers tend to be more focused on cost vs. satisfaction when it comes to automotive repair vs. physician services. So, maybe it’s a good thing that people ask me how much a repair will cost. At least then, it’s not as much of a shock to their pocketbook or to their physical health. I’ve got to hand it to the medical profession, insurance companies and the like. They all manage to make a buck on everyone who’s in need of repair. Too bad we couldn’t get the same kind of coverage on a car. I’m not talking about extended warranties or some aftermarket company that would cover certain aspects of auto repair. I’m talking about a real “health insurance policy” for vehicles. I doubt too many people would call me up asking for prices on repairs then. Instead, the caller would most likely say, “It’s covered; I’ve got great insurance…just get it done.” ■

Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

Âť TechTalk

WATER PUMPS By Andrew Markel, editor

Nissan VQ35-Series Water Pump CHAIN-DRIVEN WATER PUMP REPLACEMENT

t the top of the list b. Insert a pin into the tenfor the most difficult sioner body hole to hold the water pumps to lever and keep the stopper tab replace is the Nissan VQreleased (Figure 1). Series V6 engines. The pump c. Insert the plunger into the is turned by the timing chain tensioner body by pressing the and is nestled in the engine timing chain slack guide. block. This can make for a d. Keep the slack guide very difficult job no matter if pressed and hold the plunger the engine is mounted transin by pushing the stopper pin Figure 1 versely or longitudinally. The deeper through the lever and into VQ35-series of engines can be the tensioner body hole. you release the slack on the chain. found in 2001-current Nissans and If you exceed 20Âş with the tene. Make a gap between the water Infinitis. Book time on this job can pump gear and timing chain by sioner slacked, it could cause the range from 2- to 3.0-hours deturning the crankshaft pulley chain to jump. pending on the model and layout. approximately 20Â° clockwise Removal There are no shortcuts. (Figure 2). 1. Drain the coolant. The first sign of water pump 12. Remove the chain tensioner. 2. Remove the right-hand side bearing failure will be a coolant Be careful not to drop bolts engine cover. leak coming from a hole on the inside the chain case (Figure 3). 3. Remove the coolant reservoir. block by the air conditioning 13. Remove the three water 4. Remove any components or bracket. This hole leads to the portions of the wiring harness weep hole on the pump. The hole is between two seals that separate that may block access. 5. On transverse-mounted the oil on one side and the other engines, remove the right-hand side from the coolant. If the outer tire and splash shield. O-ring fails, it will leak coolant 6. Remove the drive belts. into the front cover area that is 7. Remove the idler pulley, connected to the oil sump. This then the power steering and could mimic a head gasket leak. generator adjusting bars. When replacing the pump, pay 8. Support the engine and close attention to the O-rings. Figure 2 remove the front engine mount These need to be lubricated with and bracket. either oil or coolant. The rings 9. Remove the water drain plug need to be able to seal and move on the water pump side of the small amounts as the block heats cylinder block. and cools. Do not use silicone or 10. Remove the chain tensioner other sealant. This can block the cover and water pump cover. weep hole in the block. 11. Remove the chain tensioner Before starting the job, set the assembly. engine to top-dead-center. This a. Pull the lever down and can prevent the cams and engine Figure 3 release the plunger stopper tab. from wanting to flop over when

January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

» TechTalk

WATER PUMPS

pump bolts. Make a maximum gap between the water pump gear and timing chain by turning the crankshaft pulley counterclockwise until the timing chain loosens on the water pump sprocket. 14. Screw M8 bolts (pitch: 1.97 in.) into the water pump’s upper and lower mounting bolt holes until they reach the timing chain case. Then, alternately tighten each bolt for a half turn and pull out the water pump. Pull straight out while preventing the vane from contacting the pump housing or chain.

Figure 4

Installation 1. Install new O-rings onto the water pump. 2. Apply engine oil and coolant to the O-rings as shown in Figure 4. Aftermarket pumps may have different colored O-rings and lubrication procedures. 3. Install the new water pump. Make sure the O-rings are in their grooves when installing the pump. Check that the timing chain and water pump sprocket are engaged. Insert the water pump by tightening the bolts alternately and evenly. Water pump bolts: 8.5-10.7 Nm (75-95 in.-lbs.) 4. Remove dust and foreign material completely from the backside of chain tensioner and from the installation area of the rear timing chain case. 5. Turn the crankshaft pulley approximately 20° clockwise so that the timing chain on the timing chain tensioner side is loose. 6. Install the timing chain tensioner. Timing chain tensioner bolts: 7.0-9.3 Nm (62-82 in.-lbs.) 7. Remove the stopper pin. 8. Install the chain tensioner and water pump cover. Remove the old sealant and apply new. 9. Refill the engine with coolant. 10. Start the engine. You may hear the timing chain rattle at first. Rev the engine to 3,000 rpm to purge the air from the chain tensioner. ■ Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

» DieselDiagnostics Diesel Particulate Filters: Regeneration By Bob McDonald

he increased use of EGR valves has led to a bigger problem with soot. So, in order to trap the soot, the government has mandated that all trucks built after Jan. 1, 2007, have a diesel particulate filter (DPF) and a catalytic converter. In simple terms, the DPF is a huge screen that traps the soot coming from the engine. This filter looks like a rocket shell underneath newer trucks. The DPF has temperature sensors and pressure tubes used by the PCM to help in determining when the DPF screen is full. When the DPF needs cleaning it undergoes what is called “regeneration.”

January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

Regeneration is done differently by the different manufacturers. The most common way is to inject diesel fuel into the exhaust stream in order to raise the temperature. When a certain temperature is reached, the soot will begin to burn out of the DPF that cleans the “screen.” Some manufacturers inject diesel into the exhaust through a separate nozzle in the exhaust pipe before the DPF. Others will pulse the injectors on the exhaust stroke, which will put diesel fuel into the exhaust system. The biggest drawback to this stage of the process is poor fuel economy. The fuel mileage can drop as much as 3 to 4 miles per gallon during regeneration. Through the smog reduction learning curve of diesel engines, manufacturers have introduced other solutions into production.

selective catalyst reduction (SCR) is something that has recently been released for the 2011 Ford trucks, which uses urea as the catalyst. To explain in simple terms, urea is an odorless, colorless, non-toxic substance found in urine of mammals. Urea is often used in agriculture in a granular form as a fertilizer because it is rich in nitrogen. But the urea used in diesel exhaust systems is in liquid form. This liquid can now be purchased at most local parts stores under the name diesel exhaust fluid (DEF). This is made from a concentration of liquid urea with a percentage of deionized water. The truck has two tanks inside the fuel filler door; one is for the urea solution (DEF) and the other is for diesel fuel (the fuel tank has a green lid and the DEF has a blue lid). If you’re thinking, “who cares” or “what is the point?” Well, let’s look a little deeper. When using urea, there is no need to use an EGR valve, which means that the engine will make more power without the diluted intake charge and cooled combustion temperatures. In return, there will be

» DieselDiagnostics

less particulate matter from the engine, so there is no need for a DPF. However, the drawback now is that the engine makes NOx. So in order to combat the problem, urea is injected through a nozzle downstream in the exhaust system somewhere shortly after it exits the

turbo. Remember from biology classes that this is a catalyst, so the process will separate the molecules. The urea has a reaction with the NOx gas. This reaction turns the NOx into ammonia. The ammonia enters the catalytic converter where it is separated into nitrogen and water. If you think about it, SCR is the best choice for reducing emissions in diesel engines. Yes, there’s the added expense of the DEF, but in return you make more power and obtain better fuel economy. Manufacturers can now vary the engine’s injection timing to produce more power. With that, the engine will be less likely to produce soot, reducing the chances of having to replace the DPF (at a cost of around $2,000) if it becomes clogged and won’t regenerate. Robert McDonald is owner of New South Diesel in Newton, NC, and specializes in high performance diesel and gasoline engines and cylinder heads for street, marine, dirt and drag racing. You can reach Bob at rmcdonald@enginebuildermag.com. ■

Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

Âť FeatureStory

By Andrew Markel, editor

So Clean You Can Eat Off It! WHY A CLEAN FUEL TANK IS IMPORTANT FOR A FUEL PUMPâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DIET

uel pump replacement comebacks can be costly and can hurt your reputation. One of the leading causes of failure is the tank. If a vehicle gets 20 miles to the gallon, then more than 5,000 gallons of gas (from many stations) will go through the tank in 100,000 miles. During this time, sediment, rust and debris from the pump can find its way into the tank. Removing all contaminates is critical. If possible, have the tank steam-cleaned at a radiator shop that performs these services. They can recondition a tank and check for leaks that you may not be able to spot. Your goal in cleaning the tank is to restore the environment inside the tank to the same state it was in when they put fuel in before it drove off the assembly line. If you think the new sock or strainer on the full pump will catch all of the bad stuff, you are wrong. The typical sock or strainer is designed to catch contaminates that are between 50-100 microns in diameter. Forty microns is the size of a human hair. A typical inline fuel filter can catch particles as small as 10 microns. The sock also has a limited capacity due to its small surface area. Always install a new filter. Sounds simple, but it is often forgotten. The old filter can restrict flow and make the new pump work harder. This makes for a hotter running pump that fails sooner. Bad grounds and connections can kill a new

January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

pump. Check the connector for any signs of thermal damage that may indicate there was a voltage drop or a circuit with high resistance. Do not assume the old pump caused the thermal damage. Bad grounds and circuits will stay with the vehicle and damage the new pump. Filter the fuel before you put it back in the tank. If a fuel pump went through a full meltdown, chances are the pieces from the old pump are still in the removed fuel. Filter the fuel before it goes back in the tank. Many fuel caddies have built-in filters. Check the EVAP system before returning the car to the customer. It takes at least one drive cycle for most vehicles to set an EVAP code. A leak due to disturbing the lines may not set a code during the initial test drive. The code may come on after the vehicle has been sitting for a while or a certain temperature has been reached.

» FeatureStory Check the system with a scan tool and/or smoke machine before delivering the car to the customer. Some scan tools and vehicles can perform a self-leak check. Fuel filler necks are especially susceptible to leaks if the tank has been dropped. In the Rust Belt states, corrosion on the top of the tanks and on the fuel lines is starting to become a big headache during fuel pump replacement. This is due to brines being used on roads to prevent icing. Brines stick to vehicles — even the tops of fuel tanks — long after the snow storms have passed and even

into summer. Then, every time it rains, the brines are reactivated and start to corrode the tank. Also, check the straps and mounting hardware of the tank. In 2010, Ford recalled 1.2 million trucks due to corrosion of the straps that held in the gas tank. Note: It’s a good practice to inspect the fuel lines for corrosion before starting the job. Nothing is worse than having to call the customer because a line collapsed due to corrosion during removal or installation.

UnderhoodService.com 21

» FeatureStory

TANK CLEANING

Fuel Tank Cleaning Procedures 1. Once the tank has been removed, drain all fuel from the tank. Use only an approved container or a fuel caddy to filter and store the fuel. 2. Clean accumulated road debris or rust from the top of the fuel tank, especially around the module or hanger assembly to avoid contaminating the fuel tank. 3. Remove the lock ring. 4. Remove the module or hanger assembly. 5. Clean and flush the tank with water before installing the new module or hanger assembly. 6. Swish the fuel tank around in a circular motion to collect any debris remaining in the fuel tank. 7. Slowly and carefully poor the fuel out of the tank into the approved container or fuel caddy. 8. Turn the fuel tank over, then tap the bottom to remove any debris. 9. Clean the inside of fuel tank with dish soap and water. Modern fuel tanks are difficult to clean because of their internal baffling. If a tank can be cleaned, it’s important to use high-pressure soap and water to remove the dirt. The tank should then be thoroughly dried by circulating air through the tank or by simply placing it in the summer sun. In many cases, a fuel tank replacement is the most cost-effective and safe alternative. 10. If possible, take a lint-free shop towel and wipe the inside of the fuel tank until it is clean. 11. Dry out the fuel tank completely with compressed air. 12. Inspect the fuel tank carefully. If the tank is rusted inside or shows signs of physical damage, it must be repaired or replaced. 13. After the tank has been dried with compressed air, let it sit for 30 minutes. Courtesy of the Fuel Pump Manufacturers Council ■

Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

22 January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

» TechTalk

By Andrew Markel | EDITOR

Gapping Spark Plugs: Lost Art?

or a long time, the copper core plug ruled the roads. For under a dollar, you could buy a plug that would fit, but you had to gap the plug the distance between the electrodes. This was due to differing ignition system design with different output voltages. You could even adjust gap to suit modifications to the vehicle. But with the softer electrodes made of copper, chromium or nickel-iron, they always were eroded every time the spark plug fired. Eventually, the gap would open up or the shape of the center electrode changed to the point where it would cause a misfire. In the 1990s, ignition systems changed with the introduction of fine-wire spark plugs. These plugs took advantage of the increased ignition system outputs. These plugs used smalltip electrodes made of or plated with hard precious metals like platinum, palladium or iridium. These plugs could go more miles because the metals did not erode as fast as softer metals like copper. These improvements have changed the spark plug from a 25,000-mile item to a 100,000mile item. During the past decade, we have seen spark plug design make leaps and bounds. It’s not uncommon to see a specific spark plug designed for one engine’s

January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

combustion chamber design and flame front.

Gapping Plugs For modern fine-wire spark plugs, you should not measure the gap because you could damage the center electrode. But, it is still a good idea to inspect the new spark plugs for damage or defects. The majority of these plugs come pre-gapped from the factory. On these types of plugs, bending the ground electrode(s) can alter the geometry and thermal performance of the electrodes to the point where it could cause a misfire. On older applications, gapping may still be required. Gapping specifications can be found in the service information or emissions tag under the hood. Also, gapping specifications can be found in electronic and paper catalogs. Measuring the gap requires the right tools. A coil-style gap gauge will work for copper core plugs. For fine-wire or precious metal plugs, it is recommended to use a wire-type gauge. If it is necessary to widen the gap, do so with a tool that only pulls back on the ground electrode without touching the center electrode or the porcelain. To close the gap on a plug, gently tap the plug, electrode first, on a hard surface. ■

Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

» DiagnosticPathfinder

By John Forro, contributing writer

Secret Diagnostic Trick: Hint? You Are Doing it Right Now

was fortunate to have been raised in my father’s auto shop. From the early age of 11, I could be found performing various tasks around the shop from cleaning to observing and helping the technicians whenever an opportunity would arise. One observation that always stuck out most in my mind was that even though there were always at least six ASEcertified technicians employed by the shop, any time one of them encountered a tough driveability or electrical diagnostic issue, it would always be pushed off onto Dad at some point before it would be completed. That was just how it was done. In my early years as a technician, I too fell prey to this practice. Don’t get me wrong, all the technicians were very qualified and the shop had a phenomenal reputation. Looking back on my younger years, I realized that this practice of dumping the tough jobs off onto my father gave me and the other techs a false sense of superiority. I can remember my dad’s comment to me like it was yesterday. When I was 25 years old and thinking I was a superhero among technicians, Dad said to me, “I don’t know why you walk around here thinking you are some sort of super mechanic.” This comment caught me totally off guard and I really didn’t have a clue what he was talking about. In fact, in my narcissistic young mind I was thinking maybe it was time to start looking for a nice retirement home for dear old Dad. Shortly after, some state-mandated training became available in which one could take a test and pass out of the required classes. Needless to say, Dad passed and I failed! Once enrolled in the electrical and computer-controlled classes I final-

January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

Figure 1

ly realized what my dad meant by his comment. I didn’t know half of what I thought I had prior to taking these classes. It was at this point in my career that I learned a very valuable lesson. The lesson I learned was education is a lifelong personal commitment. There you have it, the secret is out! That guy who every tech has known throughout their career who was always the smart one when it came to these types of repairs was not a mythical superhero sent from another planet, but instead was an individual who takes his or her career seriously. They can be found attending training classes, watching training-related materials and reading everything they needed to gain a personal comprehension level of various subjects. In fact, if you’re reading this article, then you have what it takes to be this type of individual! To this day, I keep striving to learn all I can about various areas of automotive repair. I now have my own one-man auto repair facility where I am the only person involved with the repair process of the vehicle. This mandates me making the most efficient use of my time. So, over the

Âť DiagnosticPathfinder next several articles, it is my plan to share with you some of my time-saving diagnostic strategies.

CASE 1: 2000 Daewoo Leganza 2.2L Automatic This vehicle was brought into the shop for an intermittent complaint of rough running and, at times, stalling out. The customer had the computer scanned at a parts store and retrieved the following codes: P0300 Random Misfire and P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction. At this time the customer had replaced the coil pack assembly, the spark plugs and the ignition wires. All of the above components had no effect on the problem at hand, and he brought it to me to change the engine controller. (See, even a do-ityourself mechanic with the right attitude will do the necessary research when faced with a driveability concern.) I always start my diagnostic process as follows: I obtain the necessary information from the customer, then I will attempt to duplicate the complaint and then start my diagnostic process from there. After feeling the condition on my preliminary road test, I brought the Daewoo into the shop and retrieved the codes. Primarily I just wanted to make sure that the codes I pulled were the same as what he had pulled from the parts store. After verifying the codes were the same, I logically analyzed the two codes at hand. I felt safe in concluding the P0300 random misfire code would be repaired once I found the cause of the P0351 coil circuit-related code. After all, common sense would tell you that if we had a primary circuit-related issue this would indeed cause a random misfire code to be stored. At this point in my diagnosis I knew that although I feel I have a firm grasp of ignition systems and how they are supposed to work, I am in no means an expert on Daewoo. I decided I should take a little time and see how this Daewoo ignition circuit is comprised. The best place to gain the necessary information needed to see how this ignition system is engineered was a wiring schematic. I quickly went to my information system and pulled the needed schematic. See Figure 1. After reviewing the schematic I knew I was cor-

rect in my thought process that this vehicle was engineered to work as follows. The crankshaft position sensor would supply the PCM with the necessary coil dwell period to allow the appropriate coil saturation to take place. Once coil saturation is achieved, the magnetic field in the coil primary circuit will collapse, allowing for secondary spark to be achieved. See Photo 1.

Photo 1

My thought process at this point was that I could have a faulty ignition coil (although not likely since it was previously replaced by the customer), a faulty PCM, or a wiring issue on either the pink power wire to the ignition coil or the black ground wire to the ignition coil. I should note that if I were to follow the recommended flow chart for this trouble code it would have taken me through as many as nine different steps. While all of them are valuable steps, I need to make efficient use of my time, so I decided to try to gain the most information I could in the quickest possible ways. I first decided that the easiest step was to verify the ignition coilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s integrity. I pulled out my low amp probe and attached it to the pink wire at the coil pack. See Photo 2 on page 28. I was primarily looking for a nice amperage pattern showing no signs of any shorts even though I knew that the coil was new. With the pattern I was able to obtain, I quickly knew the coil was indeed good due to the fact that I had no sharp vertical rise in the pattern indicating a shorted winding. Instead, a gradual rise in current is displayed like one would expect from a coil without a shorted winding. My next step was to verify the ignition coilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s power and ground circuits. I decided to back-probe the four-wire connector at the ignition coil itself. My red lead was attached to UnderhoodService.com 27

Âť DiagnosticPathfinder Photo 2

the coilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s power 12-volt ignition feed and my black lead is connected to the ground wire of the circuit. This circuit on the diagram is labeled G104. I then started the vehicle in my service bay and, as expected, I see the charging system voltage of 14.35 volts. See Photo 3.

Photo 3

I should note that I fully expected this to be the case under these conditions because the vehicle had only acted up while driving and under load. I decided to route my leads into the passenger compartment, as we so often do, and take the vehicle for a short road test to duplicate the rough-running and cut-out complaint. Once the vehicle started to sputter, I quickly hit the freeze button on my scope.

Photo 4

As you can easily see in Photo 4, my main power voltage signal to the ignition coil is dropping out under the loaded driving conditions at times. At this point

I referred back to the schematic and saw the battery voltage comes right from the fuse block from fuse 16. While I could have a break in the harness at either the power or ground side, I feel it is more likely that I will have a ground issue at the G104 location found on the backside bottom of the engine block. Once I raised the vehicle on a hoist and located the G104 location I found the trouble! See Photo 5. A loose engine ground bolt that under engine torqueing conditions would cause the intermittent concern that was plaguing this vehicle. A simple cleaning and tightening of this bolt repaired the vehicle. This was a fairly simple and quick diagnostic and repair job. In fact, I had less than 40 minutes in this job from start to finish. My goal for this article was to explain how I used my education obtained from the schematic, along with a little common sense, to decide which diagnostic tests would warrant the time to obtain the information I needed to repair this vehicle. After all, none of us makes any money

Photo 5

in this industry until the job is completed and paid for! I would have found the answer if I had chosen to follow the diagnostic flow chart, but it would have taken me longer to arrive at the same conclusion. â&#x2013; Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

» A/CUpdate

By Scott “Gonzo” Weaver

A/C Diagnostics L eave it to the manufacturers to take a simple thing like heat and air conditioning and turn it into an electronic jungle of wiring, sensors and computer components. HVAC units have come a long way from when I started in the business. Not that I want to dwell on the past, but it might be a good idea to make sure we understand the basics before diving into the problem of today’s systems. I always feel that if I understand a system fully before doing any repair work, I’m more likely to get it right the first time. Diagnostic procedures vary from car to car and from year to year. I’m finding more and more these days it’s a lot easier to diagnose the HVAC system with a scanner rather than with a print-out and test light. With the advent of the electronic door motors and the crazy locations on some of these components, I would definitely try to use a scanner when possible. An interesting fact, some aftermarket scanners provide a wealth of information on HVAC systems. Before purchasing a scanner I would ask whether or not it covers HVAC units and which years, which models and how thorough it is. The more information you have before you get your hands dirty, the better. One of the more common repairs I’ve seen on both domestics and imports is connections. The manufacturers (in my opinion) have gone to the

January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

point of making these connections just barely survivable, but not for the length of time that consumers are stretching their vehicles’ useable years on the road. The other item of concern is the control sensors, i.e., high pressure sensor, low pressure sensor, sun load, etc., for the most part, I wouldn’t drag out that test light and start stabbing the wires. They may look like a sensor, they may have wires like sensors, but there’s a good possibility that it’s not a positive or negative signal at the sensor. In some cases the sensor maybe reading a digital-type signal (waveform voltage) that would be easier to read on a scanner screen instead of that 12V test light. These values are then sent to the PCM to be interpreted and used to determine the actual A/C clutch engagement or door positions. Here again, a scanner is the proper tool of choice, not the test light. Assuming we don’t have a component failure and that the entire problem is a connection somewhere, let’s say at the blower switch, which in some cases is also the “On” switch for the entire system. If the plastic housing has been melted and the physical “metal” connector is skewed out of

» A/CUpdate

Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

place, chances are that no matter how much manipulating you do to “re-fit” the metal tab back into place it’s still going to end up back where it started and your customer will be back at your door with the same

was doing. If the car was at an idle and the A/C was off, rev the engine just slightly and the compressor would turn on and work perfectly. Bring it back to an idle and the compressor would shut back off.

problem. I would locate a replacement connector either from the dealer or the local parts store. (I’ve had next to no luck getting a connector from the salvage yards. Most of the connectors that came from the salvage yard are just as bad as the one I already have in the car. But, you might get lucky…) The advantage of using a scanner to see certain sensor values and door positions also has one extra quality to the diagnostic process: Codes. Codes for the HVAC system are valuable information for you as the tech. However, a code is not the answer, a code is a starting point or a direction for repair. So many times I see vehicles come in with new parts bolted in because the last shop that had it read a code and assumed that meant to replace the part. A perfect example of this was a 2002 VW Beetle that came in with a brand-new compressor and fan controller on it. There was a code stored for poor compressor performance at idle, which was exactly what it

Checking into it a little further, I found the real culprit to be the charging system. At an idle, the alternator couldn’t develop enough output to maintain all the systems in the car. The PCM would shut down the A/C, trying to maintain a voltage level that was acceptable but never got to the point of causing the charge indicator to come on during this whole process. (Cars are getting too smart these days.) The best thing I can tell you about diagnosing HVAC systems is to consider the year and make of the car, find out whether or not a scanner can code, read values and/or give you some information on the condition of the components before you start changing things. If there isn’t access by way of a scanner, then I would suggest a wiring diagram and a description page that will inform you of how each component works in that given system. If you keep your cool, I’m sure you can get it diagnosed and repaired before your customer gets too hot. ■

Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

» TechTip

OIL

Why Oil Balancing is Critical When Replacing a Compressor

he purpose of oil balancing is to make sure the amount of oil in the A/C system remains at the correct level. The first thing to consider when performing the process is the amount of oil contained in the replacement compressor. This can vary from a full charge of oil (8 oz./236 mL), to a half charge of oil or no oil at all. If oil is contained in the replacement compressor, it will have to be removed and reinstalled in the correct amount to properly balance the system. It’s also important to use the viscosity of oil recommended by the compressor manufacturer. If the compressor requires heavier-weight oil, such as PAG 150, but PAG 46, which is

January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

lighter-weight, is used, the result could be noisy compressor operation and premature wear. After adding the oil to the compressor, a good service tip is to rotate the compressor clutch at least four turns prior to compressor installation. Rotating the clutch circulates oil through the compressor, which reduces the potential of compressor damage due to dry bearings, and it also reduces initial torque when the clutch is first engaged. Rotating the compressor clutch is usually done by hand or with a spanner wrench. Another option is a compressor turning tool. On direct-drive compressors, the pulley and clutch are one and the same. The turning tool performs the same function as the spanner wrench, but it’s installed on the threaded hub of the clutch. After the turning tool is installed, use a wrench to turn the tool and clutch. The turning tool can be used on

some clutches that cannot accept a spanner wrench because of clutch design, or where a solid grip by the spanner wrench cannot be achieved. The turning tool can also be used in place of the spanner wrench, providing an easier method of clutch rotation, and it can be done off or on the vehicle. Never use a socket on the shaft nut or bolt to rotate the clutch. Doing so may affect the air gap between the clutch driver and compressor pulley, resulting in compressor issues. – Courtesy of Delphi Product & Service Solutions ■

» TechTips This month is sponsored by:

VW: SOLVING

NO CRANK/NO STARTS

No Start/No Crank on Jetta’s Keyless Start System Models affected: 2005-’07 Jetta (A5) and 2006-’07 Rabbit and GTI (A5) The customer may state that the engine cranks intermittently or will not crank. This condition may be more evident when the engine is hot. This may be caused internally when the steering column electronic systems control module — J527— fails, causing Terminal 50 to not energize high, which results in a no-crank condition. J527 performs two operations when starting the vehicle. When the ignition is turned to the crank position: – A message is sent via the CAN bus to J519. – The Terminal 50 circuit between J519 and J527 is energized to high. Tip: The fault code for “00885 Ignition/Starter Switch -D- (terminal 50) 008 implausible signal 001 sporadic” may be stored in J519.

Service: – Verify the output of J527 using VAS 5051/5052. – Enter address word 16 - Steering Wheel Electronics. – Read Measuring Value Block 3. In field one, there will be a bit pattern, which is relevant to ignition switch status. See Figure 1. – Turn the ignition switch to the crank position and observe that the last bit cycles from 0 to 1, as shown. Tip: Example of the switch in the crank position: 01011 If the bit does not cycle, then verify the integrity

Figure 1

January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

Figure 2

of the ignition switch (further diagnostics are needed. Do not continue with this technical bulletin). – Exit address word 16 - Steering Wheel Electronics. – Enter address word 09 - Electronic Central Electrics. – Read Measuring Value Block 7. – Turn the ignition switch to the crank position again and hold. The first field is a status indication of the Terminal 50 input on pin G1 on the vehicle electrical system control module — J519. If this does not cycle from off to on, when in the crank position, then the J519 is not receiving a Terminal 50 input from J527. Verify the Terminal 50 circuit and connector terminals between J519 and J527. See Figure 2. Circuit path: Pin 1 on the 12 pin G connector of J519 to pin 18 on the 20- pin connector of J527. J527 is located under the steering column, see arrow in Figure 3.

Figure 3

Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

» TechTips Connector G is located on top of J519, see arrow in Figure 4. If the Terminal 50 circuit is valid: – Replace J527. See Repair Manual Group 94 Lights, Switches - exterior, Steering Column Switches. Tip: It’s helpful to copy the coding of the J527 prior to exchanging the part. If the Terminal 50 circuit or connector terminals are damaged, repair as necessary. Courtesy of ALLDATA.

GM: Intermittent No Crank/No Start with MIL On and DTCs Set Models affected: 2011 and prior GM passenger cars and trucks Attention: This repair can be applied to any electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. Do not over apply lubricant to the point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition. Condition: Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions: – An intermittent no crank/no start; – Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination; – Intermittent service lamp illumination; and/or – Intermittent service message(s) being displayed. The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition. Cause: This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector. This may be caused by any of the following conditions: – Vibration – Thermal cycling – Poor connection/terminal retention – Micro motion – A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured, resulting in movement On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent connections. 38 January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

Figure 4

On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and may cause a device to become inoperative.

Representative List of Control Modules and Components The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected by this connection or connector condition and does not include every possible module or component for every vehicle. – Blower Control Module – Body Control Module (BCM) – Communication Interface Module (CIM) – Cooling Fan Control Module – Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) – Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM) – Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module – Engine Control Module (ECM) – Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module – HVAC Actuator – Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) – Any Air Bag Module – Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner – Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner – An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set: B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022 or B0023 – Powertrain Control Module (PCM) – Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR) – Transmission Control Module (TCM) Correction: Important: Do not replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:

» TechTips – The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated. – The condition is present and disconnecting and reconnecting the connector can no longer duplicate the condition. Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above. 1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check Vehicle. Retrieve and record any existing history or current DTCs from all of the control modules (refer to SI). – If any DTC(s) are set, refer to the DTC List - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control module/component that may be causing the condition (refer to SI). – If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control module/component that may be causing the condition (refer to SI). 2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component Connector End Views and Component Locator documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) that are causing the condition. Note: Fretting Figure 1 corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or identified without the use of a magnifying glass. See Figure 1. Important: Do not apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown, as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Only use a clean nylon brush that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin. 3. With a 1” nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side and the harness side of the affected connector(s). 4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present. 5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information: – DTC Diagnostic Procedure – Circuit/System Description – Conditions for Running the DTC – Conditions for Setting the DTC – Diagnostic Aids – Circuit/System Verification – If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. – If the condition can be duplicated, then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI). Courtesy of Mitchell 1. ■

Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

Power up with www.UnderhoodService.com Underhood Service delivers to you more technical and management content than ever before. We’ve redesigned our website to make it easier to search content on more than 900 technical articles, nearly 500 business-related columns and 1,700 products to help you stay informed on repairing today’s vehicles.

Go to www.UnderhoodService.com to download valuable content, view updated industry news, commentary and promotions, and access the TechShop Buyer’s Guide, a comprehensive directory of aftermarket Tools, Equipment and Supplies. Follow Underhood Service Magazine at: http://www.facebook.com/UnderhoodService

http://twitter.com/UnderHoodServ

» Shop CARDONE’s latest parts guide highlights new products, hard-to-find parts and parts available to the aftermarket exclusively from CARDONE. You’ll also find links to several new short technical videos and much more. Go to: www.pageturnpro.com/ CARDONE-Industries/54546-2013-Fall-Service-Dealer-Brochure/index.html. Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

Tenneco more than doubled the size of the Walker CalCat line this year in response to rising demand for direct-fit converters that comply with California Air Resources Board (CARB) standards as well as the latest emissions requirements in New York state. CalCat converters are engineered with OE-style washcoats and the optimum precious metal loadings necessary to meet California’s emissions requirements. Tenneco also continues to add to its line of U.S. EPAcompliant Walker Ultra direct-fit and universal converters for OBD II (1996 and newer) vehicles. Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

Penray recently added to its Penray Plus line of chemicals and functional fluids. The Liquid TuneUp package is designed as a threestep process to fortify a vehicle’s fuel, lubricating oil and engine coolant. The glass cleaner is formulated specifically to remove the contaminants that find their way onto vehicle windshields and windows. And the Tire Fix Plus features Leak Detective, designed to leave an easily identified fluorescent mark at the location where it has sealed a leak. Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

The Gates Corporation has expanded its OEM-quality products line with 181 new part numbers. The announcement includes new turbocharger hose kits for Ford applications and small-diameter, textile-covered fuel line hose. Highlights of the release include: 10 new turbocharger hose, bringing the total to 25 SKUs; seven new fuel line hose SKUs for 40 total; 111 new small I.D. and molded hose for 4,612 total SKUs; six new DriveAlign tensioners and pulleys, expanding the product line to 507; and 12 additional G-Force belts for a total of 153 SKUs. Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

Continental Commercial Vehicles & Aftermarket has introduced the VDO REDI-Sensor Installer Kit, which comes with one of each of the three REDI-Sensor sensor assemblies and four sensor service kits. The REDI-Sensor Multi-Application TPMS Sensor Program allows technicians to cover 85% of TPMS-equipped vehicles without waiting for parts delivery. All of the components in the kits are included in a special tackle box. VDO REDI-Sensor Multi-application TPMS sensors replace more than 140 OE sensors, are designed to follow OE vehicle relearn procedures, and work with all major TPMS scan tools. Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

42 January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

» Shop Winter brings with it customer concerns about fuel line icing and freeze-up. When used regularly throughout the year, Rislone Water Remover Fuel Dryer (P/N 4735) eliminates water from the fuel system to prevent rust and corrosion. As temperatures turn colder, it can also prevent customers from being stranded with frozen fuel lines. It can be easily installed directly into capless fuel systems without the need for ancillary equipment. Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

With the Deslugger from Four Seasons, professional technicians can strike out the slugging that occurs when excess oil and/or liquid refrigerant collects in the compressor after the system has been idle or parked over a period of time. The new Deslugger has a timer that cycles the compressor multiple times prior to normal operation to gradually push oil and liquid refrigerant out of the compressor before it fully engages. Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

Jasper Engines & Transmissions offers the GM 3.6L highfeature DOHC, port-injected V6 with variable valve timing (VVT), on exchange for the following 2004-’08 applications: Cadillac CTS, STS, SRX; GMC Acadia; Saturn Outlook and Buick Enclave. According to the company, this remanufactured engine includes all four camshaft actuators and harmonic balancer. The pistons are a JASPER re-engineered design to maintain OE compression ratios. A larger ring pack was used to aid in improved sealing and reduce oil consumption, and a graphite coating on the skirts prevents dry start-up and piston scuffing. Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

Federal-Mogul’s ANCO Wipers brand has expanded its line of premium Contour profile-type (“beam”) wiper blades to include coverage for the 19-mm bayonet and side-pin connections featured on popular late-model European passenger applications. The new ANCO Contour “Narrow” (“N”) Series blades are available in nine lengths ranging from 14” to 26” for late-model Volkswagen Beetle, Jetta and Passat and several Audi and BMW models. Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPID RESPONSE.com

The Hytec Automotive Group has launched a new line of electrical component parts for the automotive aftermarket. According to Hytec, the new Electrical Shield Technologies (EST) product line includes TS-16949-certified fuel pumps and ignition coils. The EST line of fuel pumps is designed for outstanding fuel delivery, easy installation and proper fit are compatible with all fuels and additives. The pumps, manufactured with solid-state, worry-free electronics, also eliminate vapor lock and flooding, according to the company. Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com

UnderhoodService.com 43

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fast, Easy and Accurate! Get FREE PRODUCT AND SERVICE INFO from the companies featured in this issue of Underhood Service. >> VISIT www.uhsRapidResponse.com and click on the company from which you want information. >> OR, go to www.UnderhoodService.com and click on the Underhood Service Rapid Response Logo.

Advertiser

Page

ACDelco

10, 11

Airtex Corporation

Cover 2, 1, 40

Advertiser

Page

O'Reilly Auto Parts Perfect Stop

39 32, 33

APA Management Group

Schaeffler Group USA

AST

Spectra Premium Industries

TechSmart/SMP

University Of The Aftermarket Foundation

US Motor Works

Auto Value/Bumper to Bumper

Cover 4

Bar's Leaks

Dipaco Inc.

ETE Reman

Federated Auto Parts

Ford Parts

Jasper Engines & Transmissions

Mann + Hummel

NAPA

Cover Call Out, 13

NGK Spark Plugs Nissan Motor Corp. USA

January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

25 Cover 3

8, 9

WANT DETAILS ON THE PRODUCTS & SERVICES YOU SEE IN

Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRapidResponse.com

DIRECT CLASSIFIEDS

Why switch to PDQ? PRICES. Low prices. High Quality. Always. 1st time buyer? Order from this ad and receive these special prices.

Call now to order or to receive a free 2012 catalog 1-800-434-5141 www.autobodysupplies.com Simply the Best Lists: Automotive Aftermarket Truck Fleet & Powersports Markets What Type of Direct Marketing Initiatives Do You Have in Store?  Direct Mail  E-Mail Marketing  Telemarketing  New Business Prospecting  Drive Web Site Traffic

 Database Enhancement  Catalog Mailing  Promote Upcoming Tradeshows

Don Hemming, List Sales Manager Babcox Media, Inc. Phone: 330-670-1234 x286  Fax: 330-670-0874 dhemming@babcox.com  www.babcox.com

UnderhoodService.com 45

DIRECT CLASSIFIEDS

Advertising Representatives The Tech Group Bobbie Adams badams@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 238 Jamie Lewis jlewis@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 266 Dean Martin dmartin@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 225 Sean Donohue sdonohue@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 206 Glenn Warner gwarner@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 212 John Zick jzick@babcox.com 949-756-8835 List Sales Manager Don Hemming dhemming@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 286 Classified Sales Tom Staab tstaab@babcox.com 330-670-1234, ext. 224 46 January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

DIRECT CLASSIFIEDS

UnderhoodService.com 47

» UltimateUnderhood

PONTIAC IRON DUKE/ TECH 4

Iron Duke INTRODUCED: 1977 Pontiac Astre Last Year In Production: 1994 USPS Grumman Postal Truck SPECS: Power: 85-110 HP Torque: 123-135 LB·FT

INNOVATIONS: • One of the first all-metric fastener engines from GM. • Throttle Body Injection

fter being stung by the unreliable Vega engine, Pontiac played it safe with Iron Duke 2.5. Compared to the Vega engine, this was a step back to an iron block and push rods. But, the Iron Duke was designed to last a long time and give American drivers the low-end torque they expected. When Iron Duke was put in the Pontiac Fiero for 1984, it got a bad reputation for throwing rods and catching the car on fire. According to inside GM sources, a bad patch of connecting rods (due to poor metallurgy) made it past quality control. The bad rods were mixed in with the good rods and sorted for length and put into sets. Some engines had one bad rod, some did not — it was a lottery. When a rod would fail (this was often hastened by hard driving and low oil), it would punch through the block, dump oil on the catalytic

January 2014 | UnderhoodService.com

converter and cause a fire. By 1988, the Iron Duke had a roller camshaft, balance shaft and even a distributorless ignition system. The engine was super reliable and produced most of its power below 3,000 rpm. Some Iron Dukes still deliver your mail as the engine in the Grumman postal truck. Why does this engine deserve

some respect? While all of the high-revving, aluminum cast four-cylinder engines of the 1980s have long been sent to the junk yard, you can still hear the drone of an Iron Duke as it delivers your mail or being flogged by a young driver. You can’t kill the Duke. ■

Reader Service: Go to www.uhsRAPIDRESPONSE.com