THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
BALI & BEYOND J A N U A R Y 2 0 11 VOLUME 12 NO. 128
CIRCLE OF
LIFE
Balinese rites of passage, each a celebration that records a milestone in the course of a person’s lifetime.
ROYAL
WATER GARDEN
UNRAVELING LOMBOK AND SUMBAWA COMPLIMENTARY
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N E W & N E W S • I N F O I N D E X • M A P O F B A L I • C L ABALI&BEYOND S S I F I E JANUARY D C O2011 L U M1 N S
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TEAMTALK
NEW PAGE TURNS! ‘Om Swastiastu...’ Welcome to a new beginning as we turn the pages into the new year. Welcome to the island and the Indonesian archipelago. “Happy New Year 2011” from all of us here at Bali & Beyond magazine. How was your year-end holiday? Here we present to you our first edition of 2011. We’ve applied a few not-sodrastic changes to the content list, with the addition of a photo gallery that was inspired by the many photo portfolios sent in by professionals, amateurs and hobbyists alike who were willing to share their shots of Bali’s beauty with you. We’ll be featuring the gallery in every odd month, and in every even month we’re planning to feature a fashion spread that is meant to support local designers. In our new FotoFolio pages its Freddy Rompas, General Manager of Pacto Bali’s Inbound Office, who shares his beautiful images of Bali with us. Admire his shots as we did! And if you happen to have any photos lying around that you would like to share, email our editorial team for a future FotoFolio consideration. Also as a note, remember that our monthly editions are online at www.baliandbeyond.co.id and that we have also published your favorite magazine in digital format that you can easily find on www.scribd.com as well as on www.issuu.com. Extending the possibilities, thanks to our digital magazine department, you can now enjoy your Bali & Beyond editions as well as most of our sister MRA Media publications on your iPad. Look for the full page ad and simply follow the easy steps outlined. Craft & Culture this month features the Balinese rites of passage that are each a celebration and collectively referred to as Manusa Yadnya; and each recording a milestone in the course of a person’s lifetime. 6
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Through Beyond Bali, we unravel Lombok and Sumbawa. Our team of contributors shares with you these eastern Indonesia destinations, which are like young brides primping and preening for the big day. The Lombok and Sumbawa Islands are gearing up for the ‘Visit Lombok Sumbawa 2012’ program - the ‘big day’ in mention.
Hary Subastian is MRA Media’s senior photographer and his portfolio spans Indonesia’s high-end fashion and lifestyle magazines.
In Capital Corner our photographer/ contributor shares with you the beauty and attractions of Ujung Genteng in West Java. This destination features a unique combination of white sand beaches, waterfalls, green fields, surf, and even tea plantations! Back on this island, our Action & Attractions features Bali’s eastern trove of scenic and historical heritage including Tirta Gangga, a 1.2-hectare royal bath garden consisting of pools, ponds, fountains, statues, and several structures with different functions. Through Pondering Point we share with you a 412-page book that summarizes almost every aspect of Bali. Starting from the creation of the universe from a Hindu (the major religion in Bali) approach, Balinese architecture, rituals, the arts, and up to the paradigm shift among modern Balinese. All is explained in 60 chapters. And in Invite & Indulge we encourage you to discover and experience the island through its food. Today, other than in food festivals, temple gatherings, religious ceremonies or an invitation to a family function, visitors to Bali rarely see traditional Balinese dishes prepared and served the real, traditional, and authentic way. “When was the last time you saw a babi guling roast on a spit?”
Fadil Aziz is a travel photographer whose main passion is capturing the archipelago’s beauty. View his portfolio at www.alcibbumphotography.com
Patricia Ivana loves writing, which also finances her travels. She loves the beach and wishes to go to all the beautiful beaches in the world. (Good luck Pat!)
Enjoy this edition; enjoy your time on the island and beyond throughout 2011! ‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team
Josua Alessandro loves to photograph human subjects, cultures and landscapes. His portfolio can be viewed at www.escapadepictures.com
BALI & BEYOND Deputy General Manager
Managing Editor
Junior Editor
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GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id NYOMAN ARI GUNADI eric@baliandbeyond.co.id NI LUH DIAN PURNIAWATI dian@baliandbeyond.co.id A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS WENIAR PRAMESTI
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PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id
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RICKY UTOMO ricky@baliandbeyond.co.id
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ARYA YUDISTIRA yudistira@baliandbeyond.co.id
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I GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id
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Contributors JOSUA ALESSANDRO, NOVENA ASSEN, FADIL AZIZ, DONNY CAHYADI, PATRICIA IVANA, FREDDY ROMPAS, MURDANI USMAN Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Tel: (021) 315 2683/84, 391 0969 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO Printing PT. SUBUR JARINGAN CETAK TERPADU, JAKARTA OFFICE Bali White House - Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23 Block IV, Kuta 80361- Bali Tel: +62 361 8868601-2, Fax: +62 361 750075 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. Š 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590
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contents 01.11 THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
January 2011 Volume 12 No. 128
PONDERINGPOINT SECRETS OF BALI
Cover Ujung Genteng Photo by Fadil Aziz (Alcibbum Photography)
This 412-page book tries to summarize every aspect of Bali. Starting from the creation of the universe from a Hindu approach (the major religion in Bali), Balinese architecture, rituals, the arts, and up to the paradigm shift among the modern Balinese.
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CRAFT&CULTURE CIRCLE OF LIFE
PHOTO COURTESY AYANA RESORT AND SPA
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Balinese rites of passage, collectively referred to as Manusa Yadnya, are each a celebration that records the milestones in the course of a person's lifetime.
12 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island.
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58 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali.
INVITE&INDULGE PHOTO BY FREDDY ROMPAS
EXPERIENCE THE ISLAND THROUGH ITS FOOD
Visitors to Bali rarely see traditional Balinese dishes prepared and served in the real, traditional, authentic way. Yet one way to experience Bali is through its food.
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FOTOFOLIO
PHOTO DONNY CAHYADI
SNAPSHOTS OF BEAUTIFUL BALI
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Freddy Rompas of Pacto Bali Inbound Office shares his beautiful images of the island from his portfolio in our new photographic gallery pages.
62 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events. 66 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month. 70 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations. 73 CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS Listings and product descriptions from various clientele. 74 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses.
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contents 01.11
THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
52 CAPITALCORNER UJUNG GENTENG: SURPRISES SOUTH OF THE CAPITAL
A place with a unique combination: white sand beaches, waterfalls, green rice fields, surf, and vast green tea plantations!
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40 ACTION&ATTRACTION ROYAL WATER GARDEN Bali’s east is a trove of scenery and historical heritage, including a 1.2hectare royal bath garden consisting of pools, ponds, fountains, statues, and several buildings with different functions.
46 BEYONDBALI UNRAVELING LOMBOK AND SUMBAWA Like a young bride primping and preening herself for the big day, the Lombok and Sumbawa Islands are gearing up for the Visit Lombok Sumbawa 2012 program.
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PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI
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PHOTO BY FADIL AZIZ / ALCIBBUM PHOTOGRAPHY
January 2011 Volume 12 No. 128
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NEW&NEWS
TIMELY THIRTEENTH Following the opening of the Amaris Hotel Panglima Polim (Jakarta), Amaris Banjar (South Kalimantan), Amaris Hotel Ambon, Amaris Hotel Bandara Soekarno-Hatta, Amaris Hotel Panakkukang (Makassar, Sulawesi), Amaris Hotel Palangkaraya, Amaris Cimanuk (Bandung), Amaris Hotel Diponegoro (Yogyakarta), Amaris Hotel Cihampelas (Bandung), Amaris Hotel Pekanbaru, Amaris Hotel Pemuda (Semarang), and Amaris Hotel Mangga Dua Square (Jakarta), Santika Hotels & Resorts has recently opened its latest addition to the Amaris family in Legian, Bali. This thirteenth Amaris Hotel by the Santika Indonesia Hotels & Resorts Group opened on December 20 and is located on Jalan Padma Utara, Legian. Amaris Hotel Legian - Bali offers a comfortable and convenient experience for business and leisure travelers for Rp. 360,000 per night (nett), inclusive of breakfast for two, valid through March 31. Amaris Hotel Legian – Bali, Jalan Padma Utara, Legian (0361) 756-021; bali.legian@amarishotel.com
LEARN SPA!
TRIO ITALIANO! In celebration of the International Day of Italian Cuisines, three of the island’s Italian chefs will participate in the 4th annual International Day of Italian Cuisines on January 17, joining more than 1,000 chefs worldwide to cook the event’s official dish, Pesto alla Genovese. The Ayana Resort and Spa Bali’s Executive Chef, Giordano Faggioli, will participate in the event along with Massimo Sacco, owner-chef of Da Massimo restaurant in Sanur, and Michele Greggio, Executive Chef of Puri Jimbaran Resort. Each will add the dish to the menu at their respective restaurants on this date to promote the preservation of authentic Italian cuisine. Chef Giordano explains, “Pesto alla Genovese is a well known dish often reproduced in household kitchens, but not according to traditional methods. Guests at our restaurants will taste the difference!” Ayana Resort and Spa Bali, (0361) 702-222 fb.reservation@ayanaresort.com 12
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Bali Bisa, an accredited world class spa therapy training school on the island introduces time-honored spa therapies from Eastern and Western Cultures to the general public in a “peaceful environment of learning”. Bali Bisa offers world class professional spa and massage instructions through small classes with personalized attention. Courses are conducted in a relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere. Advanced spa and massage therapy courses for professional students are also provided, as well as offering corporate training rates for spa establishments that require staff training in-house. For professionals, Bali Bisa also offers spa management director consultant training. Bali Bisa, (0361) 281-289; www.balibisa.com
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NEW&NEWS
UBUD ENTRY Starbucks Coffee Indonesia stores reached 83 in just eight years of being in Indonesia. Near the turn of last year Starbucks made an entry into Ubud. Starbucks’ 6th store in Bali is spread over 200 sqm and is located at Lotus Pond on Ubud’s Main Road, providing its signature coffee environment with soft-seating and quality jazz music from around the world. The store design concept came from the cultural and architectural history of the neighborhood where there has been adherence to the original building design and most notably working with a painter in the local art community to make a custom painting for the store: the ‘bean to cup’ story. www.starbucks.co.id
FRESH N’ POSITIVE Green Ginger Noodle House, a collaboration between an English fashion designer and an Australian DJ, is part pretty tearoom and vintage bric-a-brac store/part contemporary café, serving good coffee and modern Asian cuisine in a colorful space. With hopes of adding some positive energy as well as fresh flavors to the local food scene, Green Ginger is 100% vegetarian; it tackles the waste issue with by recycling and minimizing reusable packaging, uses 99% local produce, includes free Bahasa/Indonesian lessons each Thursday, and encourages curiosity from its neighbors by offering local Balinese customers a 25% discount. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner 7 days a week. Green Ginger, Jl. Pantai Berawa 46, Pelambingan, Canggu, (0361) 844-640
PAINT OVER POVERTY! The management team of the Bali Dynasty Resort dedicated an entire day in November to head up to North Eastern Bali to a remote hillside as part of its’ Corporate Social Responsibility program to paint the two schools in Pengalusan and Cegi. The annual painting trip was joined by 12 students from the Bali International School in Sanur who as part of their curriculum must earn points for community service. Since 2000 the Dynasty has raised nearly Rp. 2 billion in aid, making the Bali Dynasty Resort one of the leading sponsors of the East Bali Poverty Project. Information on the charity project as well as on how you can help can be found on the resort’s website: www.balidynasty.com 14
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NEW&NEWS
JOVIAL JANUARY The Westin Resort introduces its event promotions for the month of January, inviting you to savor the Tokusen Wagyu Beef and experience beachfront dining at its Ikan Restaurant. Take pleasure in a succulent array of sirloin, fillet or rib eye locally bred Tokusen Wagyu Beef cuts along with a selection of fresh seafood for a wonderful culinary combination. The Tokusen Wagyu Beef brand is the first of its kind produced in Indonesia, chosen from the finest genetics and breeding strains originating in Japan. This exclusive promotion is available daily from 6 pm onwards at the Ikan Restaurant. Also the Westin Tropical Dinner Party will be held on Thursday, January 6 at the Nusantara Room, which wraps up the festive season with a sumptuous buffet including a selection of Russian dishes. The Westin Resort, Nusa Dua, (0361) 771-906 www.westin.com/bali
TENNIS FOR CHARITY The Rotary Club Bali Nusa Dua has announced the appointment of Pure Tennis as the Tournament Director of the 2011 Rotary Club Bali Nusa Dua Charity Tennis Tournament. Pure Tennis was recently appointed as manager of both the tennis courts and tennis programs at several hotels in the Nusa Dua and Benoa area, including The Westin Resort, Laguna Resort & Spa, Nikko Bali Resort & Spa, Conrad Bali Resort, and Ayodya Resort, who have all supported the Rotary Club Bali Nusa Dua’s tournament over the years. Pure Tennis brings the combined skills of Managing Director Alex Correia and his team of tennis professionals to the Rotary Club Bali Nusa Dua in managing the tennis tournament. The 2011 Rotary Club Bali Nusa Dua Charity Tennis Tournament marks the 20th Anniversary of the Rotary Club Bali Nusa Dua Tennis Tournament and in coming months further announcements will be made as to exciting tournament innovations and improvements for the Bali tennis community. An all-new Rotary Club Bali Nusa Dua Tennis website will also be launched with full tournament details including a blog, Facebook and Twitter facilities. Proceeds from the 2011 Rotary Club Bali Nusa Dua Charity Tennis Tournament will be dedicated to the Rotary Club Bali Nusa Dua’s programs for under-privileged children in Bali. The 20th Rotary Bali Nusa Dua Charity Tennis Tournament is to be held May 8-15 this year. www.rotarybalitennis.org
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NEW&NEWS
TAKE A TRANSIT Paradiso Hotel Group’s newest 3-star hotel, the Kuta Station Hotel & Spa, was recently launched. The hotel has been conceptualized to become an urban hype 3-star hotel serving the region’s growing business travel, government, corporate and MICE markets as well as to domestic and overseas leisure travelers. Kuta Station Hotel & Spa features 132 appointed rooms ranging from Superior, Deluxe and Family room categories. The hotel features several facilities including an oversized lap pool stretched along the hotel, a kid’s pool, children’s playground, meeting rooms, a Pool Bar, an open-air Railway Restaurant & Bar with nightly live music entertainments, the Jalanidi Spa, a Gym, the Paradiso Bowling & Billiards and the Dee Jay Club. Kuta Station Hotel & Spa - Bali, Jl. Kartika Plaza 8X, Kuta (0361) 758-880; www.kutastationhotel.com
FOUR FOR FOODIES The Mal Bali Galeria recently introduced its newest food and beverage corner named the Galeria Resto that comprises of Kafe Betawi, Flapjaks, Sushi Kiosk, and Starbucks. Opt for native Indonesian menus at Kafe Betawi, light and sweet pancakes at Flapjaks, fresh and healthy sushi from the Sushi Kiosk, and premium coffee from Starbucks. All are located right in front of the mall’s lobby. The mall’s management stated the opening coincided with the mall’s 10th Anniversary, upping their number of tenants to to 101. They aim to make Mal Bali Galeria the most complete mall in Bali, and that the new Galeria Resto addition will further satiate visitor’s appetites. Mal Bali Galeria, Kuta, (0361) 755-277 18
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PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI
CRAFT&CULTURE
LIFE
“The goal is to reach perfection. If this goal cannot be achieved in this life, then there will be another to try again. And so forth.” This is what the Balinese believe, stemming from the concept of Punarbhawa or reincarnation. 20
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PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI
CIRCLE OF
I
T
he soul is perpetual, but
the ancestral lineage to improve their tasks
deep sorrow and he decided to approach
the body is very fragile.
at achieving the aforementioned goal of
the spirit to ask what was going on.
The body is trapped in
spiritual perfection.
earthly laws in that it
One very popular story in Bali tells of
What was it that had caused the spirit such a pitiful circumstance? The spirit
experiences youth and
Jaratkaru, a Brahmin or a hermit who
answered that this was because he had no
aging. When the body is
had dedicated himself fully to religion and
descendants to redeem his fate. His only
deteriorated and can no longer sustain, the
meditation. He therefore decided not to
son had decided to become a hermit and
soul will advance for a newer one. Like a
marry. Ever.
never marry, thus he will not be able to
man who replaces his old clothes for new. Reincarnation itself is one of the
His perseverance in meditation led to
reincarnate. Immediately Jaratkaru realized
him being endowed the ability to ‘cross
that this spirit was the soul of his elders
five basic tenets in Hinduism, which is
over’ and visit other realms, including the
and as a result he promised to change his
the predominant religion in Bali. This is
realm of the spirits. When he was going
ways and promised to marry. Jaratkaru
implemented in daily life in the various
about in this realm he suddenly had his
said that he married not just for happiness
forms of rituals and offerings.
sight fixed on a length of bamboo with a
sake but also to complete the circle and
The Balinese also believe that a
soul hanging from it. Below there were
continue his lineage.
newborn baby is a reincarnate of their
rodents that constantly chewed at the
distant ancestors; indirectly giving way to
bamboo base. This vision brought him
The Jaratkaru story is very accepted in Bali. Hindu tales from India now seem to BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
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Adult Balinese go through the mepandes toothfiling and pawiwahan (marriage) ceremonies, depicted here. The previous pages depict a mother-to-be holding a young coconut at a megedong-gedongan blessing, and a six month-old infant at his Balinese ‘birthday’.
be embodied as local. This story becomes
grown up with the described reincarnated
a tip for parents to tell their children so they
personality. Strangely indeed, many of the
will marry and produce offspring.
habits and traits do match.
The Balinese are of a unique habit.
ceremonies. There is a saying that states
umbilical cord dries and falls off and then
the name ‘Bali’ comes from the word ‘Wali’
they will go to a balian or Balinese shaman
that means holy and ‘Bebali’ that means
to ask for pointers on who it is that has
offering or offerings.
been reincarnated in the baby.
PHOTO BY VINCENT HERRY
Conversations between descendants
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This is Bali. A land held holy and full of
When a baby is born, they will wait until the
The Balinese believe that their religion is deeply and locally rooted yet shares many
and ancestors take place with the balian as
similarities with the ‘imported’ religion
the intermediary. Yet most people would
sourced from India. When the Balinese
ask, “is the baby really a reincarnation of
no longer go about with their rituals and
the personality mentioned by the balian?”
ceremonies, they would no longer be
No one can be so sure. They will nod
considered ‘Balinese’.
because they believe in the process. In
Ceremonies are deeply attached to
addition, many try to assess and match
Balinese life. They’d have undergone rituals
the personality of the baby after they’ve
even at the age of 7 months, still inside the
The Raja Sewala, tooth-filing and wedding can be quite flexible. Unlike the ceremony for infants that must be carried out at a determined time based on day of birth, the Raja Sewala can be carried out whenever a family is capable. placenta, blood, amniotic fluid, and the lamas or fatty membranes accompanying the baby inside the womb at time of delivery. Although the four elements would be physically gone not long after the baby is born, their spirits stay on together and aid to protect the baby into its adulthood and throughout life until death. Later, after death, one of these four ‘siblings’ would ‘report’ on the track record of the child during his lifetime. The next ceremony is the nelubulananin
PHOTO BY VINCENT HERRY
or the ‘three month’ ceremony. At this time the new family member is really considered a whole person. At this time he or she is also allowed to step on the ground for the first time (this ritual differs for some regions in Bali, with some not allowing the baby to touch the ground until the six-month ceremony). Previously, the baby is still considered in an intermediate state between humans and the divine, still on the verge of the ancestral realm. Next is the ‘birthday’ of the child. womb. The ceremony called magedong-
baby and the mother are considered to
Birthdays in Bali, according to the Balinese
gedongan is aimed at blessing the baby so
remain in some way “unclean”. At this
Pawukon cycle calendar of 210 days, have
it will be born safely and healthy.
age they are not allowed to enter the
them celebrating a ‘birthday’ every 210
kitchen, go anywhere near wells, or attend
days. It is not merely the celebration for the
as vulnerable because at this age babies
to temples. The kitchen is considered
child, but also aims to honor the ancestral
can be born too early or prematurely. In
sacred because it is where god Brahma
spirits that have been reincarnated.
addition to medical efforts such as the
is worshipped and the wells as a place of
consumption of iron and folic acid-fortified
worship for the god Vishnu. They would’ve
the ceremony conducted would be the
milk, as well as tonics and vitamins, the
been considered clean when the baby
Raja Sewala. This ceremony is meant to
Balinese also put in non-medical means
has reached 42 days or the equivalent of
remind the child of its progress in life. He
such as this ceremony.
one month plus seven days according to
or she should be watchful and diminish
Balinese calendar calculations.
their childish attributes and habits.
The fetal age of 7 months is classified
The rites of passage for the Balinese continue after birth. The placenta is
This age-marking ceremony is referred
When the child enters into adulthood,
The Raja Sewala is usually combined
cleansed and buried in front of the parent’s
to as mecolong or tutug kambuhan. It
with the tooth-filing ceremony known as
main house. Placentas are believed to be
is a time to thank the aforementioned
mepandes. Now the tooth filing ceremony
one of the relatives of the baby who acts
‘relatives’ of the baby called kanda pat and
is often coupled with the wedding
as an aide and protects it spiritually.
nyama bajang for having helped the infant
ceremony of the person or a sibling– the
to survive. The kanda pat consists of the
purpose being to save on expenses.
Starting from birth up to 42 days the
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
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A ngaben ceremony and funerary pyre for a deceased. Coffins are usually intricate, especially for nobles. For the Balinese, death is not an end. It is merely the turn of one journey to another.
After the funerary pyre, they are regarded as ancestors but not as ancestral guardians as they have not yet gone through further purification processes. The ceremony symbolizes the filing off of the so called enemies or negative influences that exist in our bodies. The
the women will ‘depart’ from her family and
mourning, and on the contrary, at the
her ancestral links.
Ngasti, it features shades of white. This
The series of ceremonies from infancy
is a cleansing ceremony for ancestral
real enemy to be first subjugated indeed
to marriage is collectively called Manusa
spirits. After Ngasti, they would finally be
resides in our bodies, the six, namely
Yadnya, or ceremonies dedicated to
considered pure and revered as guardians
desire or lust, greed, anger, confusion,
humans. At the time of death a ngaben
for their descendants.
intoxication, and envy.
cremation and several series of ceremonies
The Raja Sewala, tooth-filing and wedding are quite flexible. Unlike the ceremony for infants that must be carried
At this point they are at a ready state
collectively called Pitra Yadnya take place,
to go through the cycle of reincarnation
which are meant for ancestral spirits.
again. This cycle will go continually until
After the Balinese undergo the ngaben
the soul reaches perfection or moksha in
out at a determined time based on the
funerary pyre, they are regarded as
Hindu terminology, or nirvana in Buddhist
day of birth, the Raja Sewala can be done
ancestors but not yet worshiped as Hyang
terminology. During their lifespan they may
whenever the family is capable. Tooth-filing
or ancestral guardians as they have not yet
either be better or worse.
may also be carried out after marriage or
gone through purification processes.
even after having children. Days for weddings are usually
The ancestral spirits can only ‘descend’ again after their offspring have made a
What is clear is that they are always bound by the law of cause and effect, referred to as Karma Phala.
determined by matching dates with the
Ngasti ceremony for them. The ngaben
Balinese calendar and celebrations in Bali
ceremony has come to typically (mostly
the next. Everything is linked together. ■
in general. The Balinese use a paternal
through external influences) feature
Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati
kinship system so when a marriage occurs,
the color black, signifying the state of
Photos by Donny Cahyadi
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Actions in the past will affect their life in
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
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INVITE&INDULGE
EXPERIENCE THE ISLAND THROUGH ITS FOOD
Today, other than in food festivals, temple gatherings, religious ceremonies or an invitation to a family function, visitors to Bali rarely see traditional Balinese dishes prepared and served the real, traditional, and authentic way. “When was the last time you saw a babi guling roasted on a wooden spit?”
I
sland visitors are rarely exposed to Bali’s real culinary traditions. Few restaurants feature Balinese foods among their attractions. This is in contrast with the atmosphere back in the 1960s when visitors to the island had no choice other than Balinese daily fare - rice as the staple, exotic vegetables as salads and even more exotic yet enticing fruits and snacks
as desserts. Today, other than in food festivals, temple gatherings, religious ceremonies or an invitation to a family function, visitors rarely see traditional dishes prepared and served as they originally had been in the times-of-yore. And this has lead to the array of traditional cooking classes now easily found on the island, as well as those that might be available at your hotel (just ask the restaurant or the hotel’s food and beverage staff, or your concierge), as all are now catering to the particular new market niche. Some establishments nowadays also find it a moral obligation, in the business sense, to promote the island’s rich culinary tradition. Like other top tourist destinations, Balinese food should be as popular as the island itself, completing the whole experience. Before the advent of modern kitchens and revolutionized food preparation, there was much concern over the hygienic aspect. Bali belly often is related to the deemed unhygienic conditions, yet not all gastronomic disturbances are due to the lack of hygiene. It has become known that the spice factor has a lot to do with affecting tummies of foreigners and those unaccustomed to the
PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI
hot and “spicy” journey down the esophagus. Save lawar, the notorious collection of dishes made of finely chopped meat, spices, coconut flesh, and other ingredients - most times including fresh blood. The Balinese community craves it together with roast pig. This dish is usually prepared in feasts for the community held at banjar halls on major ceremonies or events. Dozens of men may have to chop for several hours to prepare all the ingredients, thus creating a busy din of blakas chopping blades 26
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
Sate lilit (minced coconut and meat satays) are always present at special communal feasts and is inseparable from the Balinese cuisine list.
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
27
Roast pig on a spit at a recent festival. Many warungs now can be seen to feature babi guling. Banana trunks also form part of the cuisine, that can be turned into soup or finely chopped as salad.
continuously hitting wooden talenan blocks, all in the gathering day of a mebat. In western kitchens, the entrails are thrown into the waste bin, or butchers may only sell parts from flanks to loins and ribs, but scarcely the head, claws, or intestines. Yet similar to oriental and most Asian cooking, Balinese preparations often involve all or most of the meat parts. Be urutan made from intestines filled with chopped and seasoned meat stuffings look much like dark undivided sausages. There is an unveiled answer from the ingredients of herbs and spices they use. Turmeric, for example, is considered and widely accepted as a natural remedial and antibacterial component, also used in traditional skincare concoctions and spa mixtures. Although these ingredients provide a countermeasure to the 28
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
possibility of unhygienic matter, gastro related complaints are perhaps triggered by the herbs and spices themselves. Foreign tummies new to the spicy substances and the sudden change in digestive encounters may merely deserve a slight and easier adjustment. The banjar halls and special communal events are no longer awaited by those who yearn for babi guling, lawar, sate lilit (minced coconut meat satay), jukut nangka (young jackfruit salad with coconut milk), jukut urab (mixed vegetables with grated coconut) and other typical traditional dishes. Village entrepreneurs have noticed the demanding “market” for this local craving, thus many warungs and rumah makans can be
seen to feature the dish, similar to the presence of Masakan Padang, Taliwang, Minang, Warung Banyuwangi, Sate Madura, and others - but excluding the Muslim term “Halal”. Balinese cuisine also has made its way into five-star hotels and restaurants, creating easy access to newcomers who want to sample the exotic cuisine safely, and providing the comforting assurance of hygiene although the ingredients involved remain strictly the same. In promoting the Balinese fare, restaurants usually feature top dishes including crispy fried duck, versions of lawar, sliced young coconut mix, assorted satays, seafood and fish (usually the famed Jimbaran-style grilled snapper and prawn). When introducing eating traditions in particular, dining the East Bali way is known as megibung, and as former Indonesian tourism minister Joop Ave once expressed, “Unlike spoons, your hands are much more hygienic as they only serve one mouth in their lifetime,” maintaining the dining style the way it is enjoyed by its people. The real East Bali dishes usually include rice, star fruit leaf vegetables, banana trunk soup, the lawar of chopped raw BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
29
PHOTOS BY MURDANI USMAN
Lawar, the iconic Balinese collection of dishes made of finely chopped meat, spices, coconut flesh, and other ingredients - most times including fresh blood. Balinese communities crave it together with the babi guling roast pig.
meat and coconut mixed with fresh blood (don’t be surprised,
they share and find out the latest jokes, rumors, affairs and village
as this last ingredient can be found in the culinary list of many
gossip, all the while chatting over glasses of tuak or arak. Hanging
different cultures all over the world), meat soup, fried meat and
out in a petuakan would be referred to as metuakan.
various satays - almost always the sate lilit. Tiny plates of sliced chili and salt are common, accompanying the dishes. The friendly communal atmosphere is part appetizer. The
Another scarce sight nowadays in some regions is the genjek traditional drinking party that evolved from the love of the beverage and good company. A group of men sit in a circle
megibung’s uniqueness is seen when the session is about to
chanting traditional songs with, or (most of the time) without
finish. Each participant takes a glance at each other’s plate to
musical instruments. Like western-style a capella, some sing a
make sure that they finish the meal together. Those at a slowly
song while others vocally mimic musical instruments, of course
pace will quicken and vice-versa. It is at times considered impolite
with the free flow of liquor. Today genjek still can be found in many
to finish after or before a neighbor.
ritual occasions in Karangasem and the eastern part of north Bali,
The Balinese usually drink arak with their lawar or babi guling, as the Japanese would pair sake with sashimi, or as red wine to steak, and white wine to fish. Back in the years as an elder’s
such as weddings, celebrating a new-born baby, and even during ngaben cremation ceremonies. Seasoned visitors to the island often find arak served over ice
pastime in Balinese villages, it was a tradition for men to meet
cubes as Arak Attack or Arak Madu, with arak, lemon or orange
in a village ‘pub’, a small bale or any other impromptu meeting
juice and honey mixed together. Enjoy your pairing. Toast! ■
point. Also, after working all day in the rice fields, the men would
Text by Nyoman Ari Gunadi
gather in sidewalk liquor stalls called petuakan. In these petuakan
Photos by Donny Cahyadi
30
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
31
PONDERINGPOINT
Secrets of Bali ‘Fresh Light on the Morning of the World’
W
hen I reminisce back to my childhood
through his book, The Secrets of Bali.
days, I remember how the Balinese
Copeland was born and went to school in Belfast, Northern
people were so proud of their ‘Bali-
Ireland before going to London to study law at University Collage
ness’. There was one joke they
London. He practiced law in two major law firms in the city
frequently brought up. It goes that
of London for 25 years. Throughout that time he traveled to
when a Balinese asks a tourist, “what
Southeast Asia.
do you think of Indonesia”, tourists back in the day would often
He came to Bali with a travel survival kit in hand and knew
look confused and say that they had no idea, “Indonesia? Which
nothing about the island. Soon he found out that there were so
side of Bali is Indonesia?” No offence to their depth of geography,
many things that he did not comprehend about Bali. Indeed, Bali
though.
has many things that seem to not fit into mainstream logic and
The joke is still relevant up to this day. There are still some who
cannot be easily comprehensible to the western way of thought.
know Bali, the island, far better than Indonesia, the nation. Small
The latter, being identical to individualistic living patterns and
wonder that Jonathan Copeland in a chapter in his book wrote,
logical thinking, while the Balinese live a communal life with
“Bali is a small island with a big reputation.”
their banjar community groups being the smallest social group
This small island has indeed become an inspiration to many
and at the same time the strongest. The Balinese are also
of its visitors. Many foreigners have come, fallen in love with, and
very inseparable from their rituals and have strong beliefs in
then stayed on in Bali. There are also those who came and left but
dynamism.
still keep Bali in memory, be it in the form of paintings or books. One of the latest to have put Bali down in writing is Copeland 32
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
Many things remain incomprehensible. This reminds me of the big question from a German friend. Back then she saw me
preparing offerings for rituals. There were many fruits, flowers, and young coconut leaves used. Also a great deal of time used in arranging them. She asked, “What are these offerings for? It looks like a frittering away of time and resources.” It is not surprising that she asked, because it was not the first time, but many times he had seen such a procession. This question would never be asked by a Balinese due to their perspective differences. Offerings or banten in the local
This book tries to summarize every aspect of Bali, from the creation of the universe from a Hindu approach to pardaigm shifts among modern Balinese. tongue is derived from the word ‘enten’ meaning awakened or conscious. Offering banten can be defined as a form of self awakening that humans are subjects of a universal energy. All that exists and humans possess come from God. Ceremonies are not processions that are meant to waste money. Besides attaining meanings, what’s left of the rituals can be taken back and enjoyed by the offering’s arranger. Copeland perhaps had the same question. But luckily he met up with Wayan Murni, a lady from Ubud who had and ran a warung there. Murni is a Balinese woman with a keen insight on tourism. She realized that Bali has many unique aspects that invoke foreigner’s curiosity. It seems that the realization of the many hidden secrets Bali keeps pushes them to dig up explanations and record them in books. This 412-page book tries to summarize every aspect of Bali. Starting from the creation of the universe from a Hindu approach (the major religion in Bali), Balinese architecture, rituals, and the arts and up to the paradigm shift among the modern Balinese. All are explained in the 60 chapters. This book is very interesting in particular for those who want to know about Bali and are eager for answers to general questions. However for more specific and profound questions, a book with a more complete assessment is yet to be published. And in several volumes, perhaps. ■ Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
33
FOTOFOLIO
Morning Light on the Sand Our new photo gallery features a minute selection from the portfolio of Freddy Rompas, who has captured various angles of the beauty that Bali has to offer. Scenic nature shots and panoramas, first taken by a keen eye, a digital camera, and some postprocessed through High Dynamic Range imaging. 34
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
The Nature For the start of 2011, and as a debut for our new photo-sharing space, we select some of Freddy’s early morning shots like these, to signify a ‘new start’.
Sanur Early Morning Sanur, the well-known eastern coast of Bali, is a favorite tourism spot with calm waters and spectacular sunrises. Traditional jukung boats and recreational bale pavilions dot the coast. BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
35
Sea Safari Benoa harbor is the island’s major seaport where most of the catamarans, cruises and sailing boats can be found resting at the docks. 36
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
Face of My Country The northern coast of Lovina in Singaraja, Buleleng regency boasts black sand and placid waves, which make it a typical escape for quiet vacationers.
Paddling with the Sun Jimbaran Bay, a perfect place to watch the glistening sea lull to the stunning sunsets. A stand-up-paddler is captured in this frame.
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
37
Serangan Island From The Sky Also dubbed the ‘turtle island’, Serangan is shot from a plane shortly after taking off from the airport nearby.
Bias Tugel Temple A hidden temple on the southern Nusa Dua peninsula. Despite the lively tourism enclave that it has evolved into, there still remains ‘concealed’ and sacred corners like this one. 38
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
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39
PHOTO BY NOVENA ASSEN
ACTION&ATTRACTION
A
ll throughout the
fountains, statues, and buildings serving
designation to the right of the entrance
Karangasem Regency
different purposes.
is named Swah. At this level there is a
of East Bali you can
Entering the garden you’ll easily
banyan tree that is said to be hundreds of
encounter various
distinguish three levels. From the entrance
years old with spring water bursting out
types of scenery with
to the right is the highest, and it descends
from underneath. One third of the spring
fascinating historical
to the left. Apparently those behind the
was channeled as Karangasem’s public
and heritage sites. This area is the home
design of the water garden implemented
drinking water supply, while two-thirds of
of Tulamben, a renowned dive site with
the concept referred to as Triloka.
it is allocated for irrigation facilities within
captivating underwater playgrounds. The
Literally, tri means ‘three’ and loka
the park. Excess water from the ponds
life and activities of the salt farmers of
means ‘nature’ or ‘designation’. The three
and creeks will then flow back into the rice
Amed have also become iconic to the
are known as Bhur, Bwah, and Swah.
fields of the nearby population.
region.
Bhur is the underworld, inhabited by spirits
Also among the famous vestiges of
Water from the spring is also used by
unseen by the naked eye. Bwah is this
the local people for ceremonial purposes.
the Karangasem rajadom is the Tirta
contemporary realm, where humans live.
Water or tirta constitutes one of the three
Gangga royal bath and water gardens.
Swah is the highest, the level of divinity for
most important amenities in a ceremony.
The bath is located in a 1.2-hectare area
the gods and goddesses.
The Ganges itself is a sacred river in India.
and is comprised of several pools, ponds, 40
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
Adjusted to the concept, the highest
It is easily perceived that the name Tirta
ROYAL
Water Garden Among the famous vestiges of the Karangasem rajadom is the Tirta Gangga royal bath and water gardens.
Gangga was intended for the park to be parallel to the holy flowing water like the Ganges in India. Besides banyan trees and springs, the designated area of Swah also boasts a swimming pool and two small lakes inspired by Versailles and Victorian styles. It may have stemmed from the encounters with European trips and acquaintances.
located further east, which is also a famed legacy of the Karangasem rajadom. The relationship can be seen in the architectural styling of the buildings. At the lower level, the Bwah, you will find the Nawa Sanga Fountain, a wading
PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI
This connection between Bali and Europe can also be seen at Taman Ujung,
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
41
PHOTO BY NOVENA ASSEN
pool and the Mahabharata Lagoon.
are asked for an admission fee. Rubber
Hinduism spread to Southeast Asia and
Nawa Sanga in Old Javanese is roughly
tire tubes for floating are available for a
to the islands of Indonesia, it brought
translated to ‘the nine points of the
separate fee. For some, the pool water can
along not only the religion but also the
compass’. The nine are the eight common
be a little too cold for a dip, while others
heroic stories. Over the centuries, local
points including the hub. Each designation
may find it very refreshing for a midday
communities adopted and modified the
has its own guardian deity, each with
swim.
stories so it was as if they had become a
different weapons, colors, days, letters and numbers. The god at the hub is Çiwa, one of
Unlike modern pools that have their floors and walls built from blue tiles, Tirta
local product themselves. One of the most important parts of
Gangga is of a very natural setting. The
the story is the warring parties during the
the main three Hindu gods in Bali. Çiwa
base of the pool is made up of earthen
Bharata Dynasty. At Tirta Gangga, the
is often symbolized by phallic symbols or
bricks. On normal days the pool will be
warring sides are depicted by 10 statues
linga – a symbol of potency and fertility, for
crowded with local people playing in the
on the right and 10 on the left.
when the linga and the yoni – the female
water. The crowds grow over the public
counterpart - combine, they form the
holidays and pools can become a frenzied
visitors can enter the pond via stepping
symbol of the initiation of life. The linga at
scene. The more the visitors, the more
stones while having the sensation of Koi
Tirta Gangga takes form as the nine-tier
income is generated and goes towards the
fish swimming around their feet.
fountain that is surrounded by eight gods.
maintenance of the site.
Beside the Nawa Sanga complex
Still in the Bwah area, the Mahabharata
For a closer look at the rows of statues,
The last designation is Bhur. This is the most extensive area located to the
there is a relatively large pool. This pool
Lagoon can be found at the front of
immediate left of the entrance. There is a
is intended for visitors who wish to go for
the entrance, named after the Hindu
large pool called the South Lagoon that
a dip in the cool water. To do so, people
epic written by Bhagawan Vyasa. When
features a bridge in the middle. In the
42
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
Visiting Tirta Gangga, people not only can admire the beauty of the royal baths or the cool ambience, but can also learn a bit about Balinese philosophy. middle of the bridge is a ‘demon island’.
not only admire the beauty of the royal
Perhaps it might sound a bit peculiar
baths or feel the cool ambience of the
to give it the name “Demon”, but it would
mountains, but can also learn a bit about
be in accordance with the Bhur aspect
Bali and Balinese Hinduism. The park is full
that it is in the realm of the underworld
of philosophical values that were placed
and invisible forces. This “island” is a small
there on purpose by its creators.
park in the middle of the lagoon that is
Tirta Gangga was established by Anak
connected by two bridges on either side.
Agung Anglurah Ketut Karangasem,
Inside the park there are trails and a few
the last raja of Karangasem. In 1908
fountains spouting.
he succeeded his uncle, I Gusti Gede
This lagoon is full of large fish with
Djelantik, as the head of the Karangasem
dominant colors of white, yellow and red.
administration. At the time the Dutch
These fish have lived there peacefully
held power over several rajadoms in Bali
thanks to the park rule of no fishing in Tirta
including Karangasem.
Visiting Tirta Gangga, people can
Anak Agung Anglurah Ketut Karangasem was born I Gusti Gede
PHOTO BY NOVENA ASSEN
Gangga.
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
43
Ketut Karangasem Anglurah passed away in 1966, the responsibility for the care and maintenance fell to his son, Dr. Anak Agung Made Djelantik. In 1979 the park began its rehabilitation and in 1985 entrance fees were applied to visitors. Tirta Gangga is one of the most highly Djelantik. At the age of 5 his father
the Taman Ujung and Tirta Gangga water
recommended heritage attractions to visit
passed away and the responsibility of his
gardens. Presumably his background
in Bali. It is located in the village of Ababi,
upbringing was left in his uncle’s hands.
knowledge was why Tirta Gangga
approximately 83 km from Denpasar. It is
Since childhood he never had the chance
was filled with religious symbols and
rather difficult to find public transportation
of a formal education. Yet, like Balinese
philosophical meanings.
to Tirta Gangga, so best to use private
rajas in general, they were endowed the
The raja established Tirta Gangga in
transport. You need to follow the Ngurah
transfer of knowledge and wisdom from
1948. But 15 years later the royal bath
Rai and Ida Bagus Mantra bypasses,
religious leaders, scribes and scholars,
experienced severe damage following the
then at the end of the bypass follow the
and had access to ancient manuscripts on
eruption of Mount Agung. Bali’s highest
signs that lead to Amlapura, the capital of
religion and various other subjects.
and most active peak spewed hot lava
Karangasem. From Amlapura it is only a 6
in 1963. Its “wrath” destroyed everything
km stretch aided by road sign directions.
and talent in the field of literature. He wrote
around it, consuming thousands of lives
Tirta Gangga resides right on the edge of
several books on Balinese culture and
and forests, villages, and agricultural lands
the main road between two vast and cool
Hinduism. He also had a great interest
in the vicinity.
rice paddies. ■
As an adult he displayed a keen interest
and aptitude for design and architecture. He initiated the construction of two parks, 44
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
The heavy damage left Tirta Gangga in a neglected state. When Anak Agung
Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati Photos by Hary Subastian
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
45
BEYONDBALI
Unraveling Lombok and Sumbawa Like a young bride primping and preening herself for the big day, the islands of Lombok and Sumbawa are gearing up for the Visit Lombok Sumbawa 2012 program. 46
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
B
oth islands are situated
Its quiet setting makes it perfect for a
beaches of Kuta attract visitors because of
east of Bali, less talked
relaxing getaway. Senggigi Beach, the
its many exciting surf spots.
about but often known as
main tourist strip of Lombok, is located
more pristine and tranquil.
on the west coast of Lombok, with bays
is renowned for its cultural heritage and
Blessed with white sandy
ideal for swimming, snorkeling and other
festivals that takes place during the entire
beaches and turquoise
popular water activities because of its
year. On this trip I was fortunate enough
moderate waves.
to come across a traditional wedding
water as well as abundant underwater life, Lombok and Sumbawa offer a huge variety
Besides its natural beauty, Lombok
On the south coast lies Kuta Beach.
procession known as Nyongkolan.
of stunning attractions that will impress
While Senggigi enjoys popularity because
Nyongkolan is a tradition where the
travelers from all over the world.
of its many quiet water activities, Kuta
bride and groom with their extended
is more virginal and rather secluded
families and close friends, as well as the
and known for its high waves. Thus the
prominent figures in their village, walk
In Lombok, one can find the simple pleasure of warm sunshine and blue sky.
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
47
Sights from the gorgeous Gili Trawangan Island, the largest of Lombok’s three Gili islands. It is 3 km long and 2 km wide with a population of about 700. A traditional wedding procession known as Nyongkolan took place upon documenting the region (right).
in a procession across the village as a
traditional songket, the traditional hand-
actually design the pattern. Weaving is a
formal announcement of their union. It is
woven fabric intricately patterned with gold
skill easily mastered by all women because
an ancient tradition that is still in practice
threads. In Lombok, every woman has to
they learn it from a very young age, but
today, even in a big city like Mataram.
be able to weave a songket in order to
designing patterns is an art not everyone is
marry, as it symbolizes a woman’s entry to
gifted to master.
Although the procession sometimes causes traffic jams if done on a busy street, it is a sight to behold. The
adulthood. Although weaving a songket is a
It is by no means an easy task, as the pattern designer has to memorize
newlyweds in their colorful costumes and
common skill in Lombok, not many
hundreds of difficult traditional patterns.
full make up walk under the sun, smiling
are actually able to design a songket
To be able to create a new design,
brightly and oblivious to the sweat rolling
pattern. Even in the Sukarara village,
the designer must have patience,
down their faces and necks.
which is known as the center of songket
perseverance and a good sense of art.
Everyone in the procession is clad in a 48
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
production, only four or five women can
Beautiful songkets in hand, I decided to
holiday can opt for snorkeling or go on a dive trip with one of the numerous dive operators in the island. A number of quality dive schools are available, offering a complete range of PADI certified courses, as well as fun dives for those who already have their diving certificate. Eco-tourism is another attraction in this island. A project funded jointly by locals and tourists was set up to help preserve the population of turtles around Gili leave Lombok and explore the gorgeous
the freedom to choose accommodations
Trawangan. Turtle eggs are located and
Gili Trawangan Island, the largest of
that suit their budget, from luxury villas
kept under surveillance. Once they hatch,
Lombok’s three Gili islands. It is 3 km long
overlooking the ocean to more affordable
the baby turtles are placed in a tank to
and 2 km wide with a population of about
bungalows inland.
grow. When they are 6 months old and big
700. There are no motor vehicles on the
The nightlife on Gili Trawangan is
enough to fend for themselves, they are
island. The main means of transportation
something to be experienced, as the
are bicycles. For traveling to and from the
island is very popular with young European
island, people use motorized boats and
travelers. In the morning, nursing last
an exciting destination that offers lush
speedboats.
night’s residue of mayhem, you can lie on
green forests, a coastline of pristine
the white sands soaking up the sun, totally
beaches, underwater wonders and a
disconnected from everyday life.
stunning stretch of very dry grasslands,
The island supports itself from tourism, as it is too small and too remote to allow other industries to develop. Visitors have
Those who wish to have a more active
released into the sea. To the east of Lombok, Sumbawa is
the savanna landscape. The savanna is BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
49
FLORES SEA PELANDA ISLAND MEDANG ISLAND
GILI MENO GILI AIR GILI TRAWANGAN
SONGEONG ISLAND
MOYO ISLAND
GILI LAWANG GILI SULAT
GIRI BANTA ISLAND
WEST LOMBOK EAST LOMBOK
RAIT
LOMBOK STRAIT
NTB
ALA
CENTRAL LOMBOK
S ST
MATARAM
SUMBAWA REGENCY
DOMPU REGENCY
BIMA REGENCY KELAPA ISLAND
SUMBAWA ISLAND
simply breathtaking. Brownish grass, dry
Sumbawa is also known for its great
benefits and is commonly used in modern
bushes and trees with a clear blue sky in
waves and sandy white beaches, and
spas and beauty treatments in big cities
the background offer a remarkable and
is one of the popular destinations for
like Jakarta. Another local commodity that
somewhat poetic sight.
international surfers. During the dry season,
is much sought after in the big cities is the
the mountains and valleys are so dry that
famous wild horse milk. Just like cow’s
of Fire. It is a mountainous island with
the island turns a dusty brown. Come
milk, horse milk is also a good source of
deep ridges and valleys, and is also home
the rainy season, the island undergoes a
fat, vitamins and minerals. Its growing
to the notorious volcano Tambora, which
magnificent transformation as it becomes a
popularity in Java and other islands has
dominates the north of the island. The
lush, green island once again.
helped many home industries in Sumbawa
The island lies within the Pacific Ring
volcano was responsible for one of the
The majority of Sumbawa’s forest
prosper.
mightiest explosions in recorded history,
dwelling people are dependent on forest
Lombok and Sumbawa offer something
and a trek through the lava fields to view
honey for their income. They climb the
different to travelers. They appeal to
the awesome crater that once affected the
trees as high as 40 meters to harvest
those with a sense of adventure and who
weather of the whole planet is a once-in-a-
honey, risking their lives. The Sumbawa
are looking for excitement in some of
lifetime experience
honey is widely known for its health
Indonesia’s most spectacular settings. They appeal to those with a curiosity for culture, and an interest in all things natural. From the beach to the forest to the savanna, both islands are ready to excite travelers with their many wonders. With the support of the Visit Lombok Sumbawa 2012 program, it is no doubt these two remarkable islands will soon become major players in Indonesian tourism. ■ Text by Patricia Ivana
INDONESIA 50
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
Photos by Josua Alessandro www.escapadepictures.com
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
51
CAPITALCORNER
Ujung Genteng:
AMAZING SIGHTS SOUTH OF THE CAPITAL
52
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
T
he fact that all of these natural features can be found in one region really is awe-inspiring. Not many places for instance, offer the beauty of a beach and a scenic waterfall at the same time. Or a green stretch of rice paddy and the beach, as most paddies and waterfalls reside in the mountains. I myself discovered these exotic features of Ujung Genteng in 2001, and ever since each year I “migrate” there
to escape the hubbub of the city. Located approximately 220 km from Jakarta, Ujung Genteng falls into the
administrative area of the Sukabumi regency. This regency is generally known for its mountainous terrain, as Ujung Genteng lies on the southern edge on the lip of the vast Indian Ocean. Small wonder that not many know about this place. From the yellow Bagbagan Bridge just before the town of Pelabuhan Ratu, those wishing to embark for Ujung Genteng from Jakarta must take a left turn, crossing the large Cimandiri River. It should be noted that just before the bridge there is a fuel station,
Ujung Genteng. A peculiar name. With the word Ujung, literally “edge”, which is connotative to “farflung” as part of its name, it is a perfect holiday destination that is off the beaten track for residents of the capital city.
so the general rule is to fill up your tank before you proceed, otherwise you risk having to buying fuel in small bottles from roadside vendors along the way. The hilly area welcomes you with an ascent just after you cross the bridge and leave Teluk Pelabuhan Ratu behind. Here you can catch glimpses of the scenic bay. About half an hour later you will be taken far away from the port and enter the mist-covered mountainous realm. The scenery changes – a rather rare view of the Sukabumi region that not many have become acquainted with. Moreover, this time we have a bird’s eye view. Travel then slows its pace, thanks to the beauty of the surroundings as well as the meandering route. Motorists should take extra care along the twisting hilly roads. As the journey across the quiet roads to the east continues, the green panorama of tea hills soon shifts the view to the left and right. The quiet and smooth Bagbagan – Kiara Dua ride offers an enjoyable experience. I like to arrange my journey so I pass the plantation at noon or lunchtime. A picnic lunch in the tea plantation is an experience like no other. Approximately 31 km from Bagbagan is the Kiara Dua crossroad. Don’t take the wrong turn because a turn left would take you back to Sukabumi, while the turn right reads to Jampangkulon and Surade. Both are districts that precede Ujung Genteng. Before arriving at Ujung Genteng you will pass through the small village of Surade. Here would be the last point and last chance to purchase and replenish any necessary stock BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
53
for the remaining passage. As a note, from
comparable to Bali’s Tanah Lot at the
or large gates like the ones at Pelabuhan
Bagbagan to Ujung Genteng you won’t
front. I frequently used it as my base on my
Ratu or Pangandaran stating that we
come across any small towns anymore. It
early explorations here.
have reached our destination (and indeed
is a region that can be considered remote
Continuing the journey to the south
even for Java Island. After Surade it is even
the roads are consistently smooth and
more desolate.
straight, ‘as the crow flies’. After about
this would be absurd and diminishing aesthetics wise). Peace is your reward once you arrive.
After Surade the road is relatively
10 km the road comes to an end, as the
Naturally Ujung Genteng is a stopover for
straight and eventually descends to the
Indian Ocean greets you. Disembarking
fisherman and seafarers – an alternative
coastal area. Crossing over the river
from your motor vehicle, the coastal breeze
from Pelabuhan Ratu, so it isn’t actually
Cikarang, coconut plantations sprawl
caresses your face. This end of the road is
a village. And as it hasn’t bloomed into
across the land until a large hotel, the
what we come to call the far-flung Ujung
a village, the hundreds of hectares of
Amandaratu, welcomes visitors to the
Genteng –approximate 87 kms (a 3 hour
coconut farms seem quite barren.
area. This hotel has a prime location on a
ride) from Pelabuhan Ratu. The village of
No noisy whirring of revving motor
promontory that juts out to sea with the
Ujung Genteng itself is several kilometers
engines. To the east it is quite empty; to
Cikarang estuary on its left and a structure
before this ‘end’. But there are no signs
the west it is somewhat of an off-road
54
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
have several bedrooms and a kitchen. If you are not content with the placid coast and want more lively activities, you may try to trek down the 1.5 km coastline to the west until you come to the Cibuaya estuary. The water is only leg deep, and crystal clear and cool. Crossing the stream on foot like this is a rare experience in times like these. If on the following days you yearn for more action, continue on past Cibuaya until you reach Pangumbahan. The vast white sand becomes a favorite nesting site for sea turtles. This is the reason why it has become a conservation site at the same feature but can easily be passed by
perfect playground for the kids. No boats
time. You can sometimes see hatchlings
ordinary vehicles. Colorful fishing boats
in view and overall, the surroundings are
scuttling across the sand and out into the
are in their moorings on the white sandy
unspoiled.
open sea.
beach (no docks are present yet). On the
The homestays here are not of the
For those with the spirit of adventure
left are several very simple warungs that
luxurious kind; so don’t expect five star
you can hire a motor taxi or ojek to
stand to serve the fishermen’s needs. This
amenities. But surprisingly some do boast
explore the coconut plantations 5.5 km
road to the east ends at a fish auction site.
swimming pools! Many of the hotels only
to the Cipanarikan estuary. Here the calm
If you follow the road to the west along
“come to life” over the weekends. So you
Cipanarikan River meets the raging Indian
the coastal route things get even quieter,
should choose one that has a restaurant
Ocean. Adorned by twisting streams, a
as even the fishermen’s boats are a scarce
especially when visiting during weekdays.
beach with thick and vast sand, this place
sight. Not many buildings or structures
Otherwise you should bring your own
is perfect to lull away the afternoon.
obstruct the view, but after going down
supplies. Or better yet, go to the fish and
the coastal stretch of 1.7 km a number of
prawn market. Presto!
homestays can be found. In front of them are white sands with crystal clear water. A
The majority of these lodgings come in the form of bungalows. Some of them even
One more place to the west that I had the chance to explore was Ombak Tujuh. Even more desolate, the travel there requires several hours by trail bike BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
55
West from Ujung Genteng is Ciwaru Valley; slowly as you enter into it from above, you will be greeted by the stunning scenery of fresh green rice fields on both sides, walled by thick forests.
or the like, crossing plantations and rocky
One of them is Ujung Genteng’s best-
does not end there. Here people can enjoy
bridgeless streams. Don’t try this trek
kept secret, namely the Ciwaru Valley,
a number of waterfalls. A unique example
alone because you will easily be confused
located in the Ciletuh Gulf. Its location is
is Curug Cikaso that showers down
by the maze of many crossroads. Even
hidden behind the mountains between
onto a white-yellow-reddish ravine. The
many of the ojek drivers in Ujung Genteng
Ujung Genteng and Pelabuhan Ratu.
rocks below share a similar blush and the
have not all ventured to this area.
At first a trip here seems as though it
water itself is greenish. This unique color
Arriving at Ombak Tujuh you will be
isn’t promising anything. I went through a
combination is a feature on its own –rarely
rewarded by the scenic stretch of sand
number of villages west of Ujung Genteng
found among waterfalls in this tropical
and karst cliffs. A number of beautiful
and found hardly anything different from
archipelago. Frankly, this is similar to the
hidden beaches can be discovered after
many other places. But after approximately
Havasu Falls in the United States, which
climbing over the headland cliffs. Actually
30 km, the Ciwaru Valley becomes visible
often adorns pages of calendars.
Ombak Tujuh is a haven for surfers. The
ahead. Slowly as you enter into it from
waves here are said to roll seven times,
above, you will be greeted by the stunning
Ujung Genteng has to offer that cannot be
hence its name. They are much revered
scenery of fresh green rice fields on both
entirely covered here. And I believe that
by the surfers who have laid their eyes and
sides, walled by thick forests.
there are still many more to be discovered
hearts here. The base camp for the surfers is located at Pangumbahan.
The valley atmosphere is tranquil. When
There are many more charms that
even after my 8 trips there. That is why I
I arrived it was late into the afternoon, as
find this place a truly remarkable site to
the warm sun shone onto the valley and
visit for those who want to escape and
Surprisingly, Ujung Genteng, which
the clouds covered the sky adding to the
enjoy beauty of nature with all its variety. ■
incidentally is the coastal area, has a number
discovery of a hidden paradise.
Text and photos by Fadil Aziz,
Now let us look inward to the mainland.
of beautiful waterfalls and rice fields. 56
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
The enchantment of Ujung Genteng
Alcibbum Photography
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
57
BEYONDUPDATES
WOMENS PROGRAMS AHEAD THIS YEAR BRUSHED OFF THE ASHES It was very clear that the town of Yogyakarta had been dusted over by the volcanic ash when Mount Merapi erupted late last year, as expressed by the Governor of the Yogyakarta Special Province, the Sultan Hamengku Buwono X, through an official public announcement letter in late November, stating that the intensity of the eruption had subsided, and appeals to the public and tourists alike that Yogyakarta is safe to visit. Similarly, the tourist objects are all open as usual. The Sultan, through the letter announced, “a safe Yogyakarta welcomes you.” The announcement was further expressed in a recent launch of a Bali branch Yogyakarta tourism information center, attended by Yogyakarta tourism figures, including Yogyakarta PHRI coordinator of promotions, JTF Chairman and Ibis Hotel General Manager, Mr. Djulkarnain; Yogyakarta ASITA chairman, Mr. Edwin Ismedi Himna; Deputy General Manager of PT. Taman Wisata Candi, Mr. Chrisnamurti; and Head of the Yogyakarta Government Tourism Office, Mr. Tazbir. Yogyakarta Government Tourism Office, (0274) 587-486
THE MENTAL ARCHIVE Cemeti Art House hosts an art exhibition titled “The Mental Archive” curated by Sanne Oorthuizen that runs through January 8. This exhibition is about memory. Cemeti invited 9 contemporary artists to come and explain their perception about memory; Agan Harahap, Agung Kurniawan, Gunawan Maryanto, Hafiz, Iswanto Hartono, Jompet Kuswidananto, Octora, J. Ariadhitya Pramuhendra, and Syagini Ratna Wulan. Cemeti Art House, Jl. D.I. Panjaitan No. 41 Yogyakarta, (0274) 371-015; www.cemetiarthouse.com
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BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
The Mandarin Oriental Jakarta presents inspiring events for wonderful women. Its ladies programs are created to make every woman feel special through unforgettable moments in 2011. The Women and Mommy Chef program is a collaboration with Executive Chef Thierry Le Queau and Celebrity Chef Farah Quinn. They will inspire you by making creative and healthy food for your little ones. Chef Le Queau’s culinary expertise has made the Mandarin Oriental Jakarta one of most reputable dining destinations in Jakarta. Celebrity Chef Farah Quinn has received lots of public attention after her high rated national TV shows. Join us on Saturday February 12 starting at 11.30 am at the Lyon restaurant for only Rp. 235,000++ per person excluding beverages. The Women and Holistic Healing program is held in collaboration with the House of Holistic Jakarta and presents a moment of physical, emotional and spiritual healing with Pilates and Tarot or past life reading. Women will discover their inner-self, hidden desires and life path to gain a higher level of balance and health on April 2 from 10 am at Beaujoulais, Lyon restaurant for Rp. 625.000++ per person. The Women and Photography program features professional female photographer Nurulita. Experience a model make over and photo session on June 4 from 10 am at the Lyon restaurant for Rp. 980,000 nett per person excluding beverages. Mandarin Oriental Jakarta, (021) 2993-8888 www.mandarinoriental.com
Astana Kunti Suite Apartment & Villa
HOTELHIGHLIGHTS Astana Kunti boasts suite apartments and villas offering affordable and luxurious accomodation. It features a five-star resort style that can be enjoyed at reasonable prices. Each suite apartment consists of a bedroom with en suite bathroom and walk-in wardrobe, living room with comfortable sofas, a fully-equipped kitchen and complemented with five-star luxury accommodation services. The private suite apartments and villas offer individuals an opportunity to own a lifestyle investment property that benefits from a professional marketing and management service. Astana Kunti is located in the Seminyak area, 25 minutes from the airport and 10 minutes from the beach. Seminyak is strategically located, right in the middle of the island’s hip fashion stores, homeware, quality restaurants, bars and nightlife that personify the famous island’s luxury lifestyle.
Jalan Dewi Saraswati III no. 39, Seminyak Bali - Indonesia Tel: (0361) 882 1455, (0361) 882 1445 Website: www.astanabali.com
Managed by Astana Hotel management.
Bali Tropic Resort & Spa Bali Tropic Resort & Spa is an all-inclusive hotel that epitomizes the authentic Balinese architecture and style fringed by whitesand and crystalline sea--s. It combines nature, rejuvenating spa treatments, and a host of recreational activities to give you the ultimate tropical retreat... Perched gracefully between the ocean and the sky, embraced by the lush tropical landscape, resort serenity designed for indulgence, the ambience is definitely natural, a place of beauty beyond imagining. The resort offers 130 deluxe rooms, 14 royal bungalows and 3 2-bedroom suites, each featuring individually controlled air– conditioning, private bath/showers, satellite TV, IDD, minibars, and tea/coffee making facilities, safe deposit box. Vast choices for dining include three restaurants and four bars, serving international barbecue buffet dinner. Bali Tropical Spa has 10 treatment rooms with private shower and bathtub offering traditional massages, body scrubs, facial and other therapies to choose from.
All Inclusive Jl. Pratama 34A, Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua Tel: (62) 361 772130, Fax: (62) 361 772131 E-mail: hotel@balitropic-resort.com Website: www.balitropic-resort.com
Experience the authentic Balinese hospitality.
Danoya Villa
Holiday in Luxury Offering a modern spin on traditional, tropical villas, the residences at Danoya Villa combine open-plan architecture with an Indonesian touch. They are stylishly furnished and offer all the benefits that are expected at a luxury resort. In addition to the advantages of the estate’s prime location, on-site five-star facilities are provided exclusively for guests. The villas cater perfectly for relaxation and pure indulgence. Poolside wooden sun beds are a feature of the stunning pools that are surrounded by tropical gardens. There are 24-hour security and reception, laundry services, free Wi-Fi in villas, business centre with free internet access, spa and massage in villa, drop off shuttle bus service to Legian and Seminyak areas, and airport transfers by request. Danoya Villa is only 10 minutes by walk to Batubelig beach, 5 minutes drive to famous restaurants such as Métis, Sardine, Warung Sobat, and Nuri’s; 15 minutes to the entertainment and shopping district of Seminyak; and 25 minutes to Bali Ngurah Rai International Airport.
Jalan Batubelig 559, Kerobokan Kuta – Bali Tel: (0361) 735 305, Fax: (0361) 733 372 E-mail: reservation@danoya.com Website: www.danoya.com
Maxi Hotel & Spa The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance. Hotel facilities and services include restaurant, bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer, snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar, personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing. Jl. Legian 83A, Legian Tel: (0361) 754-082 Fax: (0361) 750-792 E-mail: info@maxi-hotel.com Website: www.maxi-hotel.com
The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011Kuta 59Beach.
BEYONDUPDATES
SWEET SWINGS
GUIDE’S GALA At the XXI Ballroom of the iconic Djakarta Theatre, the much-awaited results of The Miele Guide 2010/2011 Indonesia’s Top 10 restaurants were finally unveiled to a celebrity-studded audience of some of Asia’s most recognized chefs and restaurateurs as well as prominent national food critics and journalists. The results were released at The Miele Guide Celebrates Gala Dinner, a glamorous event that was one of the main closing events of the second annual Jakarta Culinary Festival. The Miele Celebrates Gala event marked The Miele Guide’s inaugural partnership with the Jakarta Culinary Festival as the official guidebook to the month-long festival. The Meile Guide 2010/2011 edition is available for US$15 at the below website and is available on the shelves of all major bookstores across Asia. www.mieleguide.com
The 12th Annual Hotel Kristal Charity Golf Tournament was among the best events held by the hotel at the Jagorawi Golf Club during December. After the tournament, the agenda included a charity auction of sport memorabilia, lucky draws from various sponsors, the announcement of the winners and a trophy ceremony, as well as cocktails and a gala dinner. A total of 150 golfers participated and a sum of Rp. 800 million was collected. Hotel Kristal Jakarta Jalan Terogong Raya, Cilandak Barat, Jakarta (021) 750-7050 www.hotelkristal.com
CHEERING THE ASH AWAY The Jogjakarta Plaza Hotel recently held a Trauma Healing program for children in the evacuation camps of last year’s Merapi volcano eruption. On Sunday November 21, the program for the children kicked off with the staff greeting the mostly pre-school and elementary grade school kids at Taman Langensuko at 7 am. The Taman Langensuko Park is usually a favorite spot for outdoor weddings, but was transformed into a fun playground and activity arena for the hundreds of children. During the event, these children who had been cooped up in a camp got to experience some free and open spaces and engage in see-saw tug-owar competitions, ball and catch games, sack races, and many other outdoor activities. After having a glass of fresh milk prior to the games, the children were full of fun and laughter playing together with hotel staff and management. The fun continued with story telling using paper wayang puppets, a magician’s show, and gifts of school items. www.primeplazahotels.com
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Mentari Sanur Hotel
HOTELHIGHLIGHTS The Mentari Sanur Hotel is tucked away down a small side street just off Jalan Hangtuah at the northern end off Sanur, Bali’s most enchanted village. Shaded by frangipani trees, this two-storey 28 rooms hotel offers the ideal combination of modern facilities and a charming Balinese atmosphere with family style hospitality and service. A large luxury private swimming pool is the right place for you to pamper your self and relax in a privacy atmosphere under a warm tropical sun. Tunjung Restaurant offers a combination of continental and traditional Balinese dining, cozy lounge is the area where you can sit down, relax, and bar will serves you varieties of drinks. Free exclusive broadband internet access. Located in a tranquil coastal village of Sanur make the Mentari Sanur Hotel is situated in an ideal location with immediate access to the main highway and just minutes from many great tourist activities and attraction, 25 minutes drive to the Ngurah Rai International Airport, 20 minutes drive to Kuta Beach, 5 minutes drive to the Sanur shopping area, 10 minutes drive to Denpasar and 30 minutes to Ubud.
Jl. Hangtuah III No.3, Sanur Tel: (0361) 283-286, Fax: (0361) 283-017 E-mail: sales@mentarisanur.com Website: www.mentarisanur.com
Pool Villa Club Sanur Beach Bali The Pool Villa Club at Sanur Beach Bali offers luxurious one-bedroom ocean view villas with direct beach access. Each villa boasts a private terrace and its own 11-meter private pool also comes with a majestic bed, living and dining areas and expansive gardens with gazebo. The villas have fully equipped kitchens with breakfast bar, a spacious bathroom with Jacuzzi and walk-in wardrobes. Guests may take the option of dining at the gazebo while enjoying the beach and the ocean. Personal butlers provide personalized services. A perfect place for couples, families or to entertain friends. Sanur Beach Bali also features 426 rooms and suites, 2 large pools, a choice of restaurants and bars. Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur 80228 Bali, Indonesia Ph: +62 361 288011 Fax: +62 361 287566 reservation@sanurbeach.aerowisata.com www.sanurbeach.aerowisata.com
The Dreamland Luxury Villas & Spa The Dreamland Luxury Villas & Spa is a new destination for those who want to experience the atmosphere of first class service with state of the art facilities. 42 Private Pool Villas are available with different categories; 1 bedroom suite villa, 2 and 3 bedroom family villas to meet every guest’s dream. The Dream Spa is a fantastic hide away spa destination for the mind, body and soul. Featuring 3 Romantic Spa Rooms with double spa bed, shower, Jacuzzi, Sauna and spa locker. From the moment you enter into the resort’s lobby you can see the amazing Ocean Views, nice breeze, breathe in the fresh air, you can feel the sensation of the tranquil up hill environment. The Dream Spa is where a heavenly atmosphere invites you to relax, with an assortment of treatments invite you to indulge. Let the sensation of the Dream Spa’s atmosphere pamper and comport you soon.
Jl. Raya Uluwatu, Br. Bakung Sari, Ungasan, South Kuta, Bali Tel. (0361) 708 199; Fax. (3361) 708 168 E-mail: reservation@dreamland-villa.com sales@dreamland-villa.com www.dreamland-villa.com
In the Ungasan village, high on the southernmost peninsula of the island of Bali. Ten minutes to Dreamland beach, from your villa by our free shuttle service.
The Patra Bali
Resort & Villas The Patra Bali Resort & Villas is an 11 hectare five star resort in Tuban, offering one of the largest guestrooms in Kuta. All decorated in traditional Balinese style with exquisite wooden furnishings overlooking exotic tropical landscapes. The hotel has a warm and peaceful atmosphere and is ideal for total relaxation! The Resort has 206 rooms and suites, all beautifully appointed, with marble bathrooms and five-star amenities. There is a huge swimming pool right by the sea. The 22 Villas are a semi-boutique concept, giving extra privacy and luxury for families or couples. Many have private plunge pools, and they’ve all 24-hour butler service. Villa guests have their own huge seaside swimming pool and exclusive use of the Floating Heritage Lounge. The hotel offers more facilities like 4 restaurants, convention centers, a Kids club, Spa & Health club, a Beach Bar and free shuttle service to Kuta.
Jl. Ir. H. Juanda, South Kuta Beach, Kuta Tel : (0361) 751-161 Fax: (0361) 752-030 reservation.bali@patra-jasa.com www.patrabali.com
The location is ideal, a huge landscaped property on South Kuta Beach, directly on the Indian Ocean and next to the international airport. A 5-minute drive north brings you to the heart of Kuta’s BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011 61 shopping district.
COMMUNITYCALENDAR
EDDIE THE HEAD FLYING TO BALI! Iron Maiden takes to the skies with its Around the World in 66 Days tour - and making their first ever visit to Indonesia. Iron Maiden fans will be treated in Jakarta’s main stadium of Gelora Bung Karno in Senayan on February 17, and at Bali’s Garuda Wisnu Kencana on February 20. Original Production is proud to welcome the rock legends for the two concerts. Both shows form part of The Final Frontier World Tour. The band will be arriving in their specially customized Boeing 757 airliner “Ed Force One”, which will be transporting the band, crew and their entire 10-ton stage production 50,000 miles right around the globe, and it is piloted by lead singer Bruce Dickinson, a qualified airline captain. Commencing in Moscow on February 11 and playing 29 shows in 26 cities, in thirteen countries and across 5 continents, Ed Force One will land for it’s last show in Tampa Florida exactly 66 days later. The tour is in support of a new Maiden studio album, The Final Frontier released in August last year on EMI Records. Look out for Ed Force One at Ngurah Rai Airport, and maybe some Eddie-inspired ogoh-ogohs on Çaka New Year’s Eve on March 4 perhaps? www.tommypratama.com
THOUSAND WISHES LEFT BEHIND Conrad Bali presents a painting and sculpture exhibition by Professor Helmut Kand through February 12. This poeticsurrealistic artist will exhibit 30 sculptures and 20 paintings from his collection that reflects his creative passion and love for Bali. The sculptures have been hand-carved by Pak Ketut Radio, a Balinese wood carver, and painted by Professor Kand and his Balinese artistic team. Dominated by bright and crisp colors, moods and joy and cheerful eroticism, this exhibition will take you on a voyage into a strange world of hidden realities and untold dreams. An Austrian national, Professor Kand studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna and has held numerous exhibitions worldwide. Conrad Bali, Jalan Pratama 168, Tanjung Benoa (0361) 778-788, www.conradbali.com 62
BALI&BEYOND JANUARY 2011
BALANCE THROUGH ART Ganesha Gallery presents an exhibition of art by I Made Windu Segara Senet titled ‘Balance Brain through Art,’ opening on January 6 starting from 6:30 to 8 pm, and running through January 17. Gallery opening hours are from 9 am to 6 pm. The theme of this dynamic exhibition by the young Balinese artist is directly related to the scientific discovery that the human brain is split in two distinct halves, each controlling different aspects of our character. The left, which controls the right side of the body, is the centre of our analytical abilities including mathematics, rational thinking and logic. In contrast the right side of the brain controls the left side of the body and is all about creativity, emotions and dreams. Like the Balinese religion which seeks to maintain the Balinese balance between numerous polar opposites – the micro and macro cosmos and so forth, Senet proposes using art to achieve balance. Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay, (0361) 701-010 www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay
DININGDIRECTORY
Bali Jegeg Restaurant
Fortuin Cafe - Live & Fresh Grilled Seafood
ocated at the best hidden paradise in Munduk village, which is famous for their beautiful waterfall in North Bali, Bali Jegeg Restaurant is the only place to make your fantasy become real for having your meals while enjoying the nice view of mountains and ocean.
L
I
Surrounded by fresh air, amidst coffee and clove plantations, Bali Jegeg Restaurant is just a few minutes away from Munduk waterfall, so it is a perfect choice for you to have your meals after a trekking down to the waterfall.
Fortuin Cafe, in operations since 2001, is located at the Jimbaran Bay / Kedonganan Beach. A four months renovation program has recently come to a completion, and now it has a new look, throughout its design and interiors. Most important is that the service is up to international standards and yet with Bali hospitality and local nuance.
Bali Jegeg Restaurant Desa Munduk, Singaraja, North Bali (+62) 362 700 1634 or (+62) 877 62766 199 E-mail : balijegeg.restaurant@yahoo.com
Besides being famous for their traditional Balinese coffee, Bali Jegeg Restaurant also serves Western and Indonesian cuisines such as Seafood Kebab, Sandwiches, Pasta, Bakmie, Nasi Goreng and many others at valuable prices. After enjoying your meals, do not forget to conclude it with a cup of the famous Balinese coffee. For sure it would make your day perfect. Only at Bali Jegeg Restaurant. For reservations, please dial: (0362) 700-1634 or (62) 877-62766-199
Chinoiserie - Dining, Lounge, Bar
C
ts easy access to and from the highway, highlighted by its superb sunset cocktail and seafood dinner, Jimbaran Bay / Kedonganan Beach become a must visit dining destination while in Bali.
hinoiserie can accommodate your corporate event or private function for up to 300-400 guests for formal meals or casual cocktail parties.
Be it a cozy dinner party in our air-conditionned VIP area or a casual coccktail party at the Paddi Bar overlooking the rice fields, we can customize and plan the perfect event for you. Chinoiserie also offers off-site catering services, transporting our culinary expertise from our kitchen to your event venue. We can cater for all your needs - no event is too great or too small for us, customizing a menu to suit your tastes, needs and budget.
We also serve Special or Romantic Sunset Dinner Parties for birthdays, company gatherings, other occasions and wedding receptions.
Jln. Pantai kedonganan, Jimbaran Bay, Kuta – Bali Tel. +62 361 7893583 Fax. +62 361 702553 E-mail: info@fortuincafe.com www.fortuincafe.com
Get 10% Discount by Direct Booking.
Bella Rosa Italian Restaurant
ucked in Legian’s most perfect hideaway of Padma Resort Bali, Bella Rosa Italian Restaurant is open for dinner daily serving the finest Italian cuisine from 17:00 – 23:00 hrs with an uninterrupted view of the beach and spectacular Sunset.
T
An array of sunset drinks, pizzas and tapas are served daily at Sunset Bar with live entertainment from 17:00 – 20:00 hrs. Flavor of Italy Buffet Dinner is available on Monday and Wednesday nights from 18:00 – 21:30 hrs at only Rp 235,000 ++ per person and 50% discount for children under 12 years old with our Quartet Strollers entertaining you with the remake of your favorite tunes.
Please email us at info@chinoiseriebali.com to work through the details of your event. For reservations, please dial: 62 361 8088 777 or 62 813 444 23 777 (Chef Alan).
With the stunning location and setting, Bella Rosa is available to cater small and private dinner at the terrace overlooking the beach while you’re enjoying the sunset or in the air conditioned dining room.
This festive season, Chinoiserie wishes you a Happy New Year!
No. 7 Jl. Sunset Road, Kuta - Bali Tel: 62 361 8088777 info@chinoiseriebali.com www.chinoiseriebali.com
Ride the local outrigger, toast to the sunset and then enjoy your tasteful seafood dinner, grilled, fried, steamed or at your choice at Fortuin Cafe, The Chosen, at Jimbaran Bay / Kedonganan Beach. It promises an unforgettable time in Bali.
BELLA ROSA ITALIAN ESTAURANT @ Padma Resort Bali Jalan Padma no 1 – Legian, Kuta Tel: 62 361 752 111 ext.1806 E-mail: fb@padmaresortbali.com www.padmaresortbali.com
Dinner reservation is recommended, come and share the joy of dining at Bella Rosa Italian Restaurant.
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COMMUNITYCALENDAR
ITALIAN ON TRACKS
DECEMBER COLLECTION CONTINUES A December collection at the Kendra Gallery, a reflection on some of Indonesia’s most talented contemporary artists, runs through January 20. It shows the artwork of well-established artists like Agus Suwage, Putu Sutawijaya and S. Teddy D. next to young artists like Pras, Nyoman Adiana and Fahrid Stevy Asta. Although very unique in their approach, they unite in their passion for artistic expression through creativity, investigation and free spirit. Kendra Gallery, (0361) 736-628 www.kendragallery.com
Ku De Ta presents a special DJ performance with DJ Bottin from Italy on Monday, January 3 from 4 pm until 11 pm. Bottin (Guglielmo Bottin, 1977) is a producer, DJ and sound designer based in Venice, Italy. Bottin makes music only an Italian can make. Take a youth spent against a background of old Italian Giallo soundtracks, add in late 70s Italian disco influences, a touch of free and easy west-coast vibe and a smattering of kitsch. Early works include two albums (Chill Reception in 2002 and I Love Me Vol. I in 2004) and more than 20 compilations for Italian label Irma Records. Later he started working as a producer and arranger for major Italian pop artists like Lucio Dalla, Donatella Rettore, Sergio Caputo and arranged a platinum-selling album by the Spanish group Chambao. As a sound artist he was selected for Fabrica, the Benetton creative research center founded by Oliviero Toscani. For the Biennale of Venice he designed audio for the Spanish Pavilion by Antoni Muntadas. He has also written original music for the feature films Once And Future Queen and the upcoming The Boy with the Sun in His Eyes, both directed by Todd Verow (Bangorfilms, USA). Ku De Ta, (0361) 736-969 www.kudeta.net
MEDI(A)ESTHETIC Tonyraka Art Gallery is hosting a visual art exhibition titled “medi(a)esthetic” by G-Five through January 16. G-Five is a group of young artists from Bali who live in Yogyakarta and are one of the groups of artists whose existence is manifested in the development of contemporary art. The membership lineup of G-Five includes Upadana, Valasara, Gede Putra, Ardika, and Legianta - five young artists who come from the Gianyar region of Bali. Although still quite young and newly emerging in the art scene, each of them has enough experience in contemporary art events and even as solo artists. However, the strong social ties based on their original genealogy and the culture of Bali has them moving forward together in the field of contemporary art in a broader context. Tonyraka Art Gallery, Jl. Raya Mas no. 86 Mas, Ubud, (0361) 781-6785; www.tonyrakaartgallery.com 64
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SEE&SEEN
MRA FOR MERAPI MRA Group Bali carried on the initiative to voluntarily carry donated packets of items directly to Jogjakarta for those suffering from the Mount Merapi eruptions from November 16-20. Mr. Kadek of Dewata Harley Davidson and Mr. Rudy of the Hard Rock Cafe Bali sent off the volunteers from the Dewata Harley Davidson Head Quarters in Kuta. The team arrived at Jogjakarta on November 17 greeted by clear weather with Merapi still visibly puffing volcanic ash in the distance. The team continued to purchase goods that were then given to the victims at several stops, namely in the villages and areas of Ngluwar-Muntilan, Polegan-Srumbung, WonoleloMagelang, Grabag-Magelang, Lumbung Rejo-Sleman, Santren, Maguwoharjo stadium, Cangkringan, Kepuh Harjo, Umbul Harjo, Kalasan-Sleman, Megu Harjo, and MinoMartani-Sleman before returning to Bali. MRA Group, www.mra.co.id
ARTHUR’S DAY A local celebration of Guinness Arthur’s Day that was first held in Indonesia on December 4 at the Oval Plaza, Epicentrum, Jakarta, was indeed in tune with the global celebration of Arthur’s Day on September 24. Lifehouse (USA), Rivermaya (Philippines), Superman is Dead, Pure Saturday and 10 Band Bold Chemistry band were the lineup of bands and musicians who took part in the celebration. The event was attended by over 4,000 spectators. Arthur’s Day is an achievement for Guinness that reflects 250 years of its success. www.guinness.com
WINNING BLENDS The Indonesia Finlandia Vodka Cup 2010 was held recently in Jakarta, and Mastur Camino achieved his second title win as the event completed its final round at Musro, Hotel Borobudur Jakarta. Mastur bested 47 other participants by creating a blend of fresh and original drinks. This victory for Mastur was fired by an ambition to achieve success and the unique experience of international competitions like the Finlandia Vodka Cup, in which he had experienced the previous year. The 13th International Finlandia Vodka Cup is to be held in Finland next year and Mastur will be joining in on the competition as well. Ariel Bobby of Loewy came in second place and Rizaldi also of Loewy came in third.
GOLD GAINS The Patra Bali Resort & Villas won gold at the recent THK Tourism Awards, being selected by the independent assessors of THK Awards & Accreditation. Its F&B team also won the Melapi Melapa Award for the outstanding achievement in the preparation, presentation and serving of Balinese food. Pictured is General Manager Mr. Hakim Affan proudly holding the award. www.patrabali.com 66
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FLAIRED! Grand Istana Rama Hotel celebrated a special 21st anniversary on December 22 with a “Bartender Flair” showcase and competition over a span of two days from December 13 and 14. A total of 32 participants from educational institutions and hospitality industries competed to show their talents in mixing a variety of ingredients, producing new beverage recipes and juggling. Participants prepared their own cocktail creations using sponsored products. Grand Istana Rama Hotel, Jl. Pantai Kuta, (0361) 752-208
SEE&SEEN
STEPPING THE STONES... Bali & Beyond and The Stones Hotel & Entertainment Center in Kuta presented yet another Recharge Night - an Industry Hospitality Party on Friday December 3, inviting the usual suspects; members of the island’s tourism and hospitality industry from travel agents and hoteliers, to public relations and marketing networks. This last Recharge Night of 2010 was made possible by the support of Hatten Wines, Heineken, and Bali Moon Liqueurs. See you again at this year’s! The Stones Hotel & Entertainment Center Jalan Pantai Kuta, Banjar Legian Kelod, (0361) 766-100 www.thestones-kuta.com
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SKAL INTERNATIONAL BALI An International Association of Travel and Tourism Professionals Doing Business Among Friends
BEST EVER SKAL CHRISTMAS BALL – MAGIC IN BLACK, GOLDEN GIRLS AND A WHITE TIGER On December 11, 2010 at the Nikko Resort & Spa, 308 guests enjoyed Bali tourism’s premier social event, the annual Skal Ball, themed “A Magical Golden Christmas Ball” At the opening cocktail guests petted a six-month old tiger before being led into the ballroom by dancers from the Bali Agung show. All enjoyed a wonderful feast accompanied by a Christmas choir, a great band and singers, a fashion show, a magic act and plenty of dancing for the light of foot. Featured were a great draw prize, raffle and silent auction prizes from generous sponsors notably from Mandala Air, QATAR Airways, Cathay Pacific Airways, Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways, Strategic Airlines and Hyatt Hotels and Resorts.
SKAL BALI’S 145 MEMBERS MEET MONTHLY AT THE BEST VENUES. SET FOR 2011 ARE: January 7, Melia Bali Villas and Spa Resort – Nusa Dua February 11, Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort - Tanah Lot March 11, The Laguna Resort & Spa – Nusa Dua April 1, Sanur beach - Sanur May 6, Family and Friends eve - Hard Rock Hotel - Kuta June 10, Queens’ Tandoor - Kuta Skal International the World’s largest travel and tourism organization, founded 1934 in Paris, 20,000 industry management and professional members in 450 clubs in 90 countries. Skal Bali is the largest club in Southeast Asia and World Leader in Membership Growth Membership and Information Gede Juwena Telephone: 7840212, email: gede@skalbali.com
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CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS
ACTION & ATTRACTION
INTERNATIONAL NEWSPAPERS BALI ORCHID GARDEN – Enjoy the
NEWSPAPER DIRECT – Bali widest range of daily newspapers from
beauty of walking among hundreds of
anywhere of the world. Chose from 1012 titles of 79 countries, daily, weekly or
beautiful and rare orchids, Heliconia,
as you like it. This service delivers you the complete edition of your preferred
Ginger and other interesting plants. A
hometown newspaper on the same day of publication to your hotel or
peaceful, natural and safe haven close
residence on Bali. Contact your hotel or villa reception or call or email them for
to the city. Enjoy a drink and find unique
the selection and pricelist 0361 769414 /
souvenirs. Tel: 466-010, Fax: 466-011
info@newspaperdirect-bali.com
www.baliorchidgardens.com E-mail: info@baliorchidgarden.biz
TOURS & TRAVEL ADVENTURE INDONESIA Tour Operator – Tailored Made Itinerary, Special
BALI QUAD DISCOVERY TOURS - The Bali Quad and Bali Buggy tours
Interest Tours : Orangutan & Dayak, Komodo & Flores Adventure, Tana Toraja,
both bring you to a part of Bali where you still can find old traditions alive.
Explore Irian Jaya Tribes, Fun Jungle Survival, Student Field Trips. BALI: Ruko
Drive yourself with a specially designed off-road vehicle that copes with all
Wana Segara 12A, Tel: (0361) 750 971, 750 964. JAKARTA: Wisma 31
kinds of terrain, through an authentic part of the island, passing rice fields,
kemang, 3rd floor tel: (021) 7182250/56, Email: info@adventureindonesia.com
crossing jungles and driving through a traditional Balinese village. The views
www.adventureindonesia.com
during these tours are sometimes beyond description. BaliQuad (using ATV’s / quad bikes) and BaliBuggy (using off-road cars) are located in different
ADVENTURE INDONESIA ready to be your professional outsource partner
locations which offer different tracks. A special “2-in-1 adventure” can be
for your corporate outing and training event, ready to customize for the
arranged, combining both off-road tours in one great adventurous day.
best result in indoor as well outdoor event activities. You decide how far
BaliQuad, Jl. Wirasatya VI No.9X, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar
the breakthrough you want to get in the event. And we will design the best
Tel: 720-766; Fax: 727-956
program and most suitable facilities to make sure your goal achieved!
www.baliquad.com; www.balibuggy.com
Email : info@adventureindonesia.co.id, Tel (021) 7194427/7182256
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INFOINDEX AIRLINES ■ AIRPORT OPERATOR: Tel: (0361) 751-011
■ CHILE: Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com
■ SWEDEN & FINLAND: Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 E-mail: sweconsul@yahoo.com
■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS: Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888
■ CZECH REPUBLIC: Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur. Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz
■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA: Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: (0361) 754-457 E-mail: bali@honorarvertretung.ch
■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA: Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369
■ FRANCE: Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id
■ THAILAND: Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81, Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 E-mail: rtc_bali@thaimail.com
■ ROYAL BRUNEI: Tel: (0361) 757-292 ■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES: Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 768-388, Fax: (0361) 768-383 ■ GARUDA: Jl. Jalan Sugianyar 5 Denpasar Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807 ■ MERPATI: Jl. Melati No. 51, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 235-358 Airport Tel: (0361) 751-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741 ■ MANDALA AIRLINES: Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya, Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar Reservation Call center 08041234567 ■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT: Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761 ■ THAI INTERNATIONAL: Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141 ■ QATAR AIRWAYS: Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: (0361) 760-275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 30,000. Residents pay an additional Rp. 2.5 million Fiscal tax for international departures, whereas holders of official tax registration (NPWP) numbers are Fiscal tax-exempt. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011
CONSULATES ■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND: Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au ■ BRITAIN: Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id ■ BRAZIL: Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 E–mail: brazilconsul@bali.net
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■ GERMANY: Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com ■ HUNGARY: Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: huconbali@telkom.net ■ ITALY: Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org ■ JAPAN: Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: konjpdps@indo.net.id ■ MALAYSIA: Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort, Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com ■ MEXICO: PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com ■ NETHERLANDS: KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com ■ NORWAY & DENMARK: Mimpi Resort, Kawasan Bukit Permai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-070, Fax: (0361) 701-073 E-mail: danishcon@mimpi.com norwaycon@mimpi.com ■ POLAND: Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 E-mail: consul@balipolandconsulate.com ■ SLOVAKIA: Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com ■ SPAIN: Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 E-mail: espana_bali@blueline.net.id
■ TIMOR LESTE: Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com ■ UNITED STATES: Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id
HEALTH&MEDICAL Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.
HOSPITAL ■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC: 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361. Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515. ■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15.
MUSEUMS ■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART (ARMA):
Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm. ■ ABIAN KAPAS: Tel: (0361) 227-176 East Denpasar. ■ ANTONIO BLANCO: Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551, Ubud, open daily 8 am-5 pm. ■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM: Tel: (0361) 942-352, Pejeng. Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays. ■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY: Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday - Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends. ■ GALLERY SENIWATI: Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI: Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar. ■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR: Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday. ■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA: Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended. ■ MUSEUM NEKA: Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm. ■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN: Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com ■ MUSEUM RUDANA: Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud. ■ MUSEUM SUBAK: Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan.
TOURIST INFO. ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188 ■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE: Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41 ■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE: Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm.
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