O C T O B E R 2 017 VOLUME 19 NO. 209
TREASURED
A ROYAL TALE
TRADITION
STAY AT ROYAL AMBARRUKMO YOGYAKARTA
BATIMUNG TREATMENT FROM SOUTH BORNEO
ONLY IN INDONESIA
www.baliandbeyond.co.id
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AGE-OLD RITUALS FROM ACROSS THE ARCHIPELAGO BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
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TEAMTALK
ONLY IN INDONESIA ‘Om Swastiastu...’ Spanning over 17,000 islands, Indonesia is so rich with different cultures, traditions, food and so much more. Each area has its own unique age-old rituals and recipes that make this nation great. As a media provider devoted to travel, tourism and lifestyle in Indonesia, we present you a special theme for this edition where we feature more stories from several parts of the country. Although the majority of Hindu people in Indonesia live in Bali, there are still some Hindu communities throughout the country. One of them is the Tengger Tribe who live on the foot of Mount Bromo since the day their ancestors moved there after escaping from chaos during the fall of Majapahit Kingdom some centuries ago. The people are
COVER Photo Courtesy of
Royal Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta
still loyal with their rituals, the Yadnya Kasada, where they pay tribute to their God and ancestors. Find out more about them in ‘CRAFT & CULTURE.’ In this edition, we also take you to the grandest hotel in Yogyakarta where heritage sites meet modern life, the Royal Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta. We reveal our story to you in ‘REST & RELAXATION.’ We also invite you to experience an ancient beauty ritual from South Borneo at Martha Tilaar Day and Spa, Jimbaran, which we share in ‘INVITE & INDULGE’. To taste authentic recipes, you can go to Kayumanis Resto Jimbaran that elevates traditional food from across the archipelago to five-star dishes. Flip through our ‘DINE & DELIGHTS’ to discover their story. And from outside Bali, our contributor Fadil Azis shares his amazing photos of Jakarta that he took when the city was “asleep” in ‘CAPITAL CORNER’, while Edna Tarigan reveals a meromictic lake in East Borneo in ‘BEYOND BALI.’ All these stories are especially crafted for you, hoping that the next time you visit Indonesia, you can go explore other wonderful travel destinations in the archipelago after your trip to Bali. Happy traveling! ‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team
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BALI & BEYOND General Manager GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id Managing Editor RISTY NURRAISA risty@baliandbeyond.co.id Editorial Advisors A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS Graphic Advisor WENIAR PRAMESTI Senior Graphic Designer I PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id Web & Graphic Designer MELIYANA SANTOSO meli@baliandbeyond.co.id Advertising & MarComm. Manager D. ARIEF SENOAJI arief@baliandbeyond.co.id Senior Advertising Sales Executive MEE NOVITA mee@baliandbeyond.co.id F&A Supervisor A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id Accounting Staff KADEK YULI MARISNA yuli@baliandbeyond.co.id GA & Personnel Adm I GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id Distribution NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA nyoman@baliandbeyond.co.id
Contributors WIWIN WIWIRDYA, CARI HILL, EDNA TARIGAN, FADIL AZIZ, GINO ANDRIAS, JOSEPH WANG, REZA FITRIYANTO
Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Phone : 021 - 2765 1717 / 1718 Ext. 7344 Fax : 021 - 2765 1716 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO
OFFICE Gedung Bali White House - Block IV Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23, Kuta 80361- Bali Tel: 0361 9348339, 085 100 868601, 085 100 868602 Fax: +62 361 750075 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id
Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590
A member of
Endorsed by
BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313
CONTRIBUTORS
www. skal.org skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id
CARI HILL
EDNA TARIGAN
FADIL AZIZ
GINO ANDRIAS
JOSEPH WANG
REZA FITRIYANTO
is an award-winning photographer from New Zealand who specializes in travel street portraits and has traveled to 55 countries. Check out her work on Instagram @nowbecomingthen0 or click www. nowbecomingthen.co.nz.
is a Jakarta-based travel writer. She began her professional career as a journalist, living in Bali for a year then moving back to Jakarta to chase another dream. www.edededan.com
is a travel photographer whose main passion is capturing the archipelago’s beauty. Check out his works in www.alcibbumphotography.com
is a Bali-based writer, photographer, coffee junkie, food addict and lover of the outdoors. He’ll write and shoot almost anything, from live concerts to water sports and everything in between.
loves to write (fine) restaurant reviews. A keen traveler, he also loves to try anything new. One of his to-do items for this year is going on a solo road trip from Singapore to Hanoi.
is a Yogyakarta-based travel and photography enthusiast. Log on to www.rezafitriyanto.com to see more of his work.
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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
contents 10.17 O C T O B E R 2017 Volume 19 No. 209
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A SACRED PLEDGE
TREASURED TRADITION
CRAFT&CULTURE
INVITE&INDULGE
The Yadnya Kasada ritual at Mount Bromo
Batimung treatment at Martha Tilaar Salon Day and Spa
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BALI’S ONE AND ONLY
PHOTOS & FUN FACTS
LIFESTYLE&LEISURE Bali’s original produce and where to find it
SIGHTS&SOUNDS
Snapshots and quotes picked up throughout August and September
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DINE&DELIGHTS
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TASTES OF THE ARCHIPELAGO
Authentic Indonesian dishes at Kayumanis Resto Jimbaran
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12 PRIMEPROMOTION
SOPHIE’S CHOICE TV persona turns healer, Sophie Navita
14 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island
6 0 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali
6 2 COMMUNITYCALENDAR
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Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events
64 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month
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REST&RELAXATION A ROYAL TALE
Royal Ambarrukmo in Yogyakarta
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FOTOFOLIO
BEYOND THE TOURIST Cari Hill explores the ‘real’ Bali 8
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
66 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations
70 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses
FIRST COLUMN PHOTO COURTESY OF KAYUMANIS RESTO JIMBARAN, SECOND COLUMN PHOTO BY CARI HILL, THIRD COLUMN PHOTO COURTESY OF ALILA MANGGIS
Hot deals and promotions of the month that shouldn’t be missed
PROFILE&PORTRAIT
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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
contents 10.17
O C T O B E R 2017 Volume 19 No. 209
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ACTION&ATTRACTION A THE SPICE TRAILS
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Discover Bali with WakaLandCruise
BEYONDBALI MAGICAL LAKE
A visit to Lake Labuan Cermin in East Borneo
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CAPITALCORNER
WHEN THE CITY’S ASLEEP The only time of the year when Jakarta is deserted 10
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TOP PHOTO BY FAKEYE, BOTTOM LEFT PHOTO BY EDNA TARIGAN, BOTTOM RIGHT PHOTO BY GINO ANDRIAS
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PRIMEPROMOTION
A DAY IN KUTA For those who have no idea how to spend their last day on the island while waiting for your late-night flight, Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort has an exclusive offer for you. The resort presents a Day Use Package at Rp. 475,000 nett/adult and Rp. 237,500 nett/child where you can enjoy an easy afternoon with shopping at Beachwalk Shopping Center, using the resort’s pool and spa facilities, and relishing a threecourse Italian set menu for lunch or dinner at Bene, while the kids can get complimentary use of Play@Sheraton. You can also take the Premium Day Use Package at Rp. 999,000/adult and Rp. 499,000/ child where you will be treated with a 60-minute massage at Shine Spa, a light lunch at the poolside area, dinner at Feast Restaurant and more. All packages include an airport transfer. Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort Jalan Pantai Kuta, Kuta, (0361) 846-5555 www.sheratonbalikuta.com
HOLISTIC CENTER
If you and your spouse want to go anti-mainstream to tie the knot, then Alila Manggis is the answer. The resort offers an Underwater Wedding package where couples can exchange wedding vows under the exotic East Bali sea. If you are not familiar with diving, don’t worry because the package is inclusive of a wedding rehearsal in a pool, and introduction and familiarization to diving. All romantic moments in the water will be perfectly captured by professional underwater photographers from DrewPerspective. You and your loved one can also enjoy a two-night stay at the hotel, and experience a complimentary romantic dinner along with a spa treatment. Alila Manggis Desa Buitan, Manggis, Kabupaten Karangasem (0363) 410-11 www.alilahotels.com/manggis
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
UNDERWATER VOWS
The new holistic center in Seminyak, Eden Life Centres, reminds us all of the importance of wellness, aesthetic treatments and selfimprovement through good nutrition, happiness and self-care. The clinic brings holistic wellness treatment in Bali to a new level with professional counsellors, healers and therapists so that guests have detailed, personalized information on their conditions. Try their popular signature treatment, the Skin Rejuvenation Program that combines a Live Cell Treatment, Carboxy and LED Therapy Facial to draw out toxins and rejuvenate skin with no pain. Eden Life Centres Jalan Petitenget No. 12, Seminyak, (0361) 934-2958 www.edenlifecentres.com
PRECIOUS ACHIEVEMENTS Good news is coming from The Damai, a perfect sanctuary in the Kayuputih Village in North Bali. The resort has just received prestigious awards as the “Best Spa Destination in Indonesia” and the “Best Honeymoon Destination in South East Asia” at the 7th Asian Lifestyle Tourism Award 2017 in Singapore. The Damai’s General Manager Christy Guna Desa was also awarded as one of the “Top 10 Outstanding General Managers in Indonesia.” These achievements prove that The Damai, that just celebrated its 20th anniversary, is one of the best gems for every couple to enjoy North Bali’s pristine black sandy beaches, sunrise views and other natural wonders. The Damai Jalan Damai, Kayu Putih, Lovina, Singaraja (0362) 410-09 www.thedamai.com
MEXICAN SUNDAY Selections of delicious delights await you at UNIQUE Rooftop Bar & Restaurant’s Mexican Sunday Brunch! Available at Rp. 380,000++ for food only or at Rp. 460,000++ with free-flow wines and margaritas, this Sunday brunch will please your palate with real Mexican flavors, from Barbacoa (short ribs with Mexican rice), Lengua En Salsa Chipotle (beef tongue with chickpeas) and Vuelve A La Vida (scallops, octopus and shrimps with cocktail sauce). This brunch is a lot more fun with a live music performance and a view of the greenery. Don’t forget to bring your swimwear so you can plunge in the rooftop pool afterwards. UNIQUE Rooftop Bar & Restaurant RIMBA Jimbaran Bali by AYANA, Karang Mas Estate, Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran (0361) 846-8468 www.rimbajimbaran.com
SWEET BABYMOON Create your unforgettable pregnancy moments in an exotic spot on the island. Nestled on a cliff-side in Jimbaran, Anantara Uluwatu Bali Resort is inviting all expecting parents to enjoy a short getaway while awaiting the arrival of their baby in a perfect babymoon package. Have a little celebration with a welcome cake and step into one of the Ocean Pool View Suites that boasts the Indian Ocean and is beautifully decorated. Mom-to-be will also be indulged with a 75-minute Elemis Pregnancy Massage while dad-to-be can enjoy a 60-minute Balinese massage. Available at US$594/room/night, this package also includes a 30-minute photoshoot within the resort area, one-time Dining by Design experience, a Sunset Snack and complimentary coconut water. Anantara Uluwatu Bali Resort Jalan Pemutih, Labuan Sait, Uluwatu (0361) 8957-555 www.bali-uluwatu.anantara.com
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
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NEW&NEWS
JOIN THE CLUB
DREAM WEDDING AYANA Resort and Spa Bali gives all the more reason for couples to tie the knot at their idyllic wedding chapel as the resort reveals the new face of their Tresna Wedding Chapel. Designed with sparkling glass aisle and lower arched windows with a view of Indian Ocean, the air-conditioned chapel is ready to witness couples’ unforgettable moment of a lifetime with up to 70 guests. After exchanging sacred vows, couples can continue their celebration at the function space beneath the chapel that can welcome up to 110 guests. A number of other dreamy venues are also available at the resort, like the Ocean Wedding Deck at AYANA, Rock Bar Bali, Weddings on the Pier and Kubu Beach Weddings, all boast a breathtaking view of the ocean. Consult with the resort’s team to find out about their attractive wedding packages. AYANA Resort and Spa Bali Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, (0361) 702-222 www.ayanaresort.com
Discover an elevated stay at The Ritz-Carlton, Bali with the resort’s exclusive program, The Ritz-Carlton Club® experience. From arrival until departure, The Ritz-Carlton Club® experience offers you a lavish getaway with a lot of benefits, like access to the stylish Club Lounge for breakfast or to simply unwind in the afternoon, complimentary coffee in your suite in the morning and more. A Club Concierge is also on standby throughout your stay to help meet your needs, from reserving a table at your favorite dining place to confirming your travel arrangements. You can also learn about Balinese culture by joining the resort’s canang-making session. But most importantly, you will get the privilege to do check-in directly in your suite or villa, while check-outs can be processed at the Club Lounge. The Ritz-Carlton, Bali Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan Lot III, Sawangan, Nusa Dua (0361) 849-8988 www.ritzcarlton.com/bali
GROWING COFFEE
Krakakoa, a chocolate brand from Lampung in Sumatra, has brought Indonesian chocolate products to the map by winning two silver and four bronze medals at the 2017 Academy of Chocolate (AOC) Awards in the UK, a prestigious award that aims to raise the awareness of fine cocoa beans and sustainable production. This achievement proves that Indonesian chocolate has a world-class quality, as Krakakoa is using 100 percent local beans. Would you like to taste this award-winning chocolate? Get a bar or more at Grand Lucky, Hardy’s, Papaya or Bintang supermarket. www.krakakoa.com
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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
WORLD-CLASS CHOCOLATE
Dear coffee connoisseurs, high-quality coffee awaits you at Conrad Bali during your stay at the resort’s suites and villas. Striving to offer locally-inspired experiences, Conrad Bali now presents original blends of Java Arabica and Mocha Java, using beans that are grown and harvested from the farmland in Mount Batukaru in Bali and West Java. This drink is even more special as they are served in a biodegradable coffee capsule, so you can enjoy it in your own private space. Conrad Bali Jalan Pratama No. 168, Tanjung Benoa (0361) 778-788 www.conradbali.com
SAVE THE PLANET Good news is coming from The Stones – Legian, Bali – A Marriott Autograph Collection Hotel as the hotel strives to make our planet a better place. Aiming to limit greenhouse gas emissions, The Stones Hotel has just installed 99 units of Solar Collector panels to provide 15,000 liters of hot water at 60 degree Celsius in their guestrooms, saving electricity up to 161,500 KWH or 122 tons of carbon footprint in a year. The movement is done to support the Paris Climate Change Agreement that was signed by Indonesia in April 2016, as well as to give the best service to their guests without forgetting to preserve the environment. The Stones – Legian, Bali – A Marriott Autograph Collection Hotel Jalan Raya Pantai Kuta, Banjar Legian Kelod, Legian (0361) 300-5888 www.stoneshotelbali.com
SUMMER KIDS Marking a fashionable summer, Mothercare hosted “Summer in Style” fashion show at Beachwalk Shopping Center towards the end of August. The event showcased selections of casual yet smart kids wear for boys and girls, from newborn to 10 years old. Designed by the Mothercare team, the collections were displayed on stage by 25 kid models, ranging from candy kimono, under the sea, glam tropic, vacation and fresh preppy. The event was a part of the brand’s #Iwearmothercare campaign and marked the beginning of an attractive promotion where T-shirts and shorts are available from Rp. 89,000 to Rp. 199,000 respectively. Mothercare Beachwalk Shopping Center Level 3, (0361) 8464-950 www.mothercare.com
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
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CRAFT&CULTURE
A SACRED PLEDGE WITNESSING YADNYA KASADA, A CENTURIES-OLD TRADITION OF THE TENGGER TRIBE IN MOUNT BROMO, EAST JAVA…
O
an ancient ritual that has been
the supreme symbol of the Sang
passed down from generation to
Hyang Widhi’s throne. Located in
generation. The ritual is compulsory
Probolinggo region, Mount Bromo
for the Tengger Tribe as a symbol of
has become a sacred place to
worship and being grateful to Sang
worship their God and ancestors.
Hyang Widhi (God). n the 14th day
According to the Javanese people
HOW IT ALL BEGAN
of the month
who still hold on to their ‘kejawen’
According to local folklore, the
of Kasada (a
principles – kejawen is an ancient
Yadnya Kasada is a tradition to seek
Tengger Tribe’s
Javanese belief –, the mountains are
safety and prosperity from Sang
calendar) during
sacred areas where their God and
Hyang Widhi. The ritual has been
Full Moon, all the Hindu people
the soul of their ancestors reside.
held for centuries, since the first day
who live at the foot of Mount Bromo
The Tengger Tribe shares the same
humans occupied the foot of Mount
in East Java gather to celebrate
ancestors with the Javanese, and
Bromo to be exact.
the Yadnya Kasada ceremony,
they believe that Mount Bromo is
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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
Another folklore also mentions
that towards to the fall of the
started a new life there together with
When midnight came, Dewi Rara
Majapahit Kingdom with Prabu
all of the people who followed them.
Anteng and Raden Jaka Seger heard
Brawijaya V sitting on the throne
The couple ruled the Tengger region,
whispers, saying that their wish
in the 16 century, lived a princess
and achieved the title “Purbowasesa
would come true with one condition;
named Dewi Rara Anteng. She
Mangkurat Ing Tengger” which
they would have to give up their last
was the daughter of one of the
means “the kind ruler of Tengger”.
born to the crater of Mount Bromo.
king’s concubines. Wars happened
The Tengger region’s name is
The couple agreed, and they finally
in Trowulan, the capital city of
derived from the names of the
got children – 25 children to be
Majapahit Kingdom, which led to a
conquerors, Dewi Rara Anteng
exact. The last born was named
huge exodus. Most of the Majapahit
(Teng) and Raden Jaka Seger (Ger).
Raden Hadi Kusuma. He was the
people moved to the eastern areas,
Dewi Rara Anteng and Raden
th
one to be sacrificed, yet he grew up
like Blambangan (Banyuwangi)
Jaka Seger lived happily with their
area, Bali and Lombok.
people. The foot of Mount Bromo
Dewi Rara Anteng and Raden
to be a strong man.
However, Dewi Rara Anteng
was a fertile land where harvests
Jaka Seger didn’t have the heart to
together with her husband (Raden
grew abundantly. However, after
give Raden Hadi Kusuma up. They
Jaka Seger) and their guards and
years of living in peace, the couple
broke their promise, and it made the
followers took a different route. They
hadn’t had any children yet. Thus,
God angry. One day, the sky above
ran to the foot of Mount Bromo.
they meditated on the top of Mount
the Tengger region turned dark and
Once they came to safety, Dewi
Bromo (Brahma), right at the edge of
Mount Bromo exploded. Raden Hadi
Rara Anteng and Raden Jaka Seger
the crater.
Kusuma disappeared into the fire
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
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The Tengger people climb the Mount Bromo to performe the Yadnya Kasada.
That was the beginning of
up to the top of Mount Bromo – the
Mount Bromo. When the tragedy
Yadnya Kasada ritual of Tengger
offering consisted of harvests, some
happened, a voice similar to that of
people in Mount Bromo. A ritual that
money and farm animals, all are
Raden Hadi Kusuma’s resonated,
is still performed until today.
given up to the crater of Mount
saying that he had been sacrificed
Bromo. This procession is the peak
EDGE OF THE CRATER
of the Yadnya Kasada ceremony
The voice also reminded the
The Yadnya Kasada ritual started
that takes place on the edge of the
people to always worship Sang
with local priests – who were hand-
crater. A day prior to this ceremony,
Hyang Widhi and that they have to
selected by senior priests through a
the people send up some prayers in
sacrifice farm animals and harvests
traditional meeting – chanting some
temples and collect holy water from
on the 14 day of the month of
prayers. Afterwards, the Tengger
a cage in Mount Widodaren, not far
Kasada.
people brought ongkek (offerings)
from Mount Bromo.
for the safety of all Tengger people.
th
The Tengger people believe that the Yadnya Kasada ritual will keep them safe from catastrophe and give them prosperity with abundant farm animals and harvests. This ritual is not only a symbol of protection and gratefulness to Sang Hyang Widhi, but also a tribute to Raden Hadi Kusuma and his other 24 siblings from Dewi Rara Anteng and Raden Jaka Seger, as the family is the ancestors of the Tengger Tribe. By Reza Fitriyanto
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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
PHOTOS BY REZA FITRIYANTO
and was sucked into the crater of
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
19
LIFESTYLE&LEISURE
BALI’S ONE AND ONLY
BALI’S ORIGINAL PRODUCE AND WHERE TO FIND THEM… By Joseph Wang
B
ali has so much more
coffee stones and will soon excrete
coffee in the world at its best,
than meets the eye. The
them out – this is when its anal
sourced from wild civets, you can
island is not only about
glands impart an elusive musky
go to Dulang at The St. Regis Bali
traditions, sunsets, and
smoothness to the “roasted” coffee.
Resort. After indulging in some
Today, many varieties of civet
Indonesian dishes through the
parties but is also home
to some of the rarest produce in
coffee are cultivated on civet coffee
restaurant’s signature rijsttafel dinner
Indonesia, if not the world. For all
farms. This practice, however, is
or rice table, a cup of civet coffee
the true foodies out there, get ready
highly criticized as the civets are
is surely a wonderful closure to your
as we present a special bucket list
caged and only fed with coffee
dining experience.
for you to check out when you are
beans, which is not their proper diet.
on the island.
But there are some coffee roasters
Dulang
who only use 100 percent wild civet
The St. Regis Bali Resort
CRÈME DE LA CRÈME
coffee, sourced directly from some
ITDC Lot S6, Nusa Dua
Considered the champagne of
coffee farmers in Bali. And it is not
(0361) 847-8111
coffee, kopi luwak or the civet coffee
difficult to differentiate the kopi
www.stregisbali.com
is one of the most coveted drinks in
luwak from wild and caged civets
the world with a price of more than
– their feces show what the animals
US$ 250/100 grams. The coffee
have been eating in addition to
is sourced from a civet, a small
coffee cherries. The limited amount
mammal that wanders around a
of farmers who can submit wild
coffee plantation and selects only
coffee civets each month also helps
the finest coffee cherries to eat for
maintain authenticity.
snacks. However, it can’t digest the
Experience kopi luwak with beans sourced from wild civets at Dulang at The St. Regis Resort Bali.
To enjoy the most expensive
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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
LOCAL SPIRITS
cause methanol poisoning. It can
20 types of ingredients. From the
The island’s signature liquor, arak
be tricky to ďŹ nd a decent place that
most common ingredients such as
Bali, is distilled from rice or palm
serves arak without putting your life
cinnamon and citrus to the more
sap with alcohol content ranging
on the line, so we did the research
exotic spices like asam kranji or
from 20 to 50 percent. It is often
for you and found Akademi Bar.
Borneo tamarind, a fruit that only
used in offerings to ward off evil spirits and is one of the less
As a dedicated center of libations,
grows once every 10 years. Ask for
Akademi Bar is not only one of the
the arak tasting or cocktail sampling
regulated alcoholic beverages – that
few places that serves proper arak
made with one of the arak infusions
is why you need to be careful when
Bali but at the same time educates
at Akademi Bar, and you will have a
you want to sample this drink.
their guests about this particularly
better understanding of this spirit.
The cheapest arak drink costs
notorious spirit, spreading awareness
around US$2, however it is
that it can be a safe drink and even
Akademi Bar
generally not recommended to
made into a world-class cocktail.
Katamama Hotel
consume that or any other cocktails
Made in Bali with the highest
Jalan Petitenget No. 51B, Seminyak
at a bar serving drinks advertised
standard, the arak Bali at Akademi
(0361) 302-9940
below US$5, as often they can
Bar is also infused with more than
www.akademi-bar.com
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
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BLACK IS THE NEW PIG
more flavorful in addition to the fact
who brought this meat to the table
With the advancement in today’s
that they are almost always on the
after his wife found it at Samadi
food and beverage industry, heritage
move. That’s why, their meat costs
Market in Canggu. While the menu
food breeds are often outpaced and
double compared to the Landrace
at The Restaurant is constantly
easily forgotten, mostly due to cost
pigs which only need six to eight
changing, bangkal hitam remains
and cultivating time among other
months to grow.
one of the favorite among its guests.
reasons. The same happens here in Bali with the island’s Heritage Pig. Decades ago, before the flood of
Black pig is in very limited supply
Don’t forget to make a reservation if
at the moment. The Restaurant at The
you want to dine here and taste its
Legian Bali – which focuses heavily
delicious bangkal hitam creation.
commercially-bred, turbo-charged
on local organic produce – is the
Landrace pigs, there were bangkal
one and only restaurant on the
The Restaurant at The Legian Bali
hitam (black pigs) in almost all
island that serves bangkal hitam in
Jalan Kayu Aya, Seminyak
households in Bali. They were fed
some of their amazing dishes. It was
(0361) 730-622
with windfall mangoes and kitchen
The Restaurant’s Chef Luke MacLeod
www.lhm-hotels.com/legian-bali
waste, and made ready for the next ceremonial feast. Bangkal hitam is basically a free-range pig which is different from its “cousin” – the regular pig species that we usually consume, in both in taste and texture. With thick black skin, bangkal hitam – which is smaller in size than its “cousin” – takes a year and a half
The Restaurant at The Legian Bali is the only place on the island that serves the lush bangkal hitam.
22
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
FOOD PHOTO AT THE LEGIAN BY JOSEPH WANG, ALL OTHERS COURTESY
to grow, and this makes their meat
Indulge in rice from Jatiluwih at Hujan Locale.
PRIZED RICE
that is almost lost in this modern
a restaurant helmed by Chef Will
Rice has been the staple food of
world. Balinese rice takes 210 days
Meyrick of Sarong Group that
Indonesia for generations. However,
to grow, which is the same length
presents Indonesian dishes and
not many people know that most of
as a year in a Balinese calendars.
focuses on the country’s best local
the rice used today is the new hybrid
This means it can only be harvested
produce, uses Balinese rice as one
that is genetically engineered, which
two times in a year at maximum,
of its staple starches. You can pair
makes it unqualified as organic
while the new rice species can be
the Balinese rice with one – or more
produce. But the rice from Jatiluwih,
harvested three times per year. The
– of their authentic local dishes for a
a region in western Bali that is
new rice hybrid can also produce
real taste of Indonesia.
famous as one of the UNESCO
more tons of rice per hectare than
World Heritages, is an exception.
the Balinese rice.
The old traditional organic
Hujan Locale
Yet, Balinese rice contains more
Jalan Sri Wedari No. 5, Ubud
Balinese rice has been cultivated for
nutrients than the new rice. So, it
0813-3972-0306
years, and has become a heritage
is only natural that Hujan Locale,
www.hujanlocale.com
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
23
DINE&DELIGHTS
veranda for lunch, I was already drooling when a waitress showed me the list of their dishes. And with my orders in, my culinary journey across the archipelago began…
LOCAL CHOICE My dining experience began with Ayam Dabu-Dabu, which is served with dabu-dabu chili that originates from Manado in North Sulawesi.
Ayam Dabu-Dabu.
TASTES OF THE
ARCHIPELAGO RELISH AUTHENTIC INDONESIAN FOOD, RANGING FROM SUMATRA IN THE WEST TO EAST NUSA TENGGARA IN THE EAST, ONLY AT KAYUMANIS RESTO JIMBARAN...
A
midst the serenity in
and a veranda overlooking the
The dish consists of shredded
Kayumanis Jimbaran
tropical garden.
chicken served with spices that blend
Private Estate & Spa, a
The restaurant just opened a year
perfectly, creating flavors that burst
unique Javanese joglo
ago, yet it has become a favorite
like fireworks in my mouth. It was
house stands within
for Indonesian cuisine. Spanning
such a flavorsome opening dish that
the resort’s manicured garden.
over 17,000 islands, Indonesia
boosted my appetite and got my
Constructed of sustainable Javanese
has thousands of ethnic tribes,
palate ready for more Indonesian
teak wood, the joglo house serves
each with its own culture, traditions
food.
as the resort’s all-day dining place
and, of course, food. Kayumanis
named Kayumanis Resto Jimbaran.
Resto strives to present some of the
the star of the menu – the Bebek
Boasting an elegant design with
authentic dishes from many parts of
Panggang Mekudus (traditional
hand-painted floor tiles and classic-
the country, from the western part
Balinese smoked duck) which is
style chairs and tables, the restaurant
like Sumatra to the eastern area like
similar to that of Balinese popular
consists of an indoor area that is
East Nusa Tenggara.
duck betutu. The difference is the
facilitated with an open-plan bar
Sitting in their peaceful alfresco
24
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
For the main course, I opted for
cooking technique. The Bebek
Panggang Mekudus uses selected qualified duck meat which is first cleaned and massaged with spices for about 15 minutes, before being left to rest for a whole night. The next morning, the duck meat is marinated with traditional spices, and then steamed for about two hours. Then, it is cooked in the oven and is finally presented to the table on burning charcoals. The slow-cook process results in lush duck meat that is rich in authentic Balinese flavor. This meal is even more fulfilling with white rice, chicken wrap skewers, a chicken soup and Balinese matah chili. Another highlight of the menu is the Nasi Bakar (the grilled fragrant rice). The origin of Nasi Bakar comes from Java, yet Kayumanis Resto Jimbaran has its own take with the use of corn, purple yam and traditional spices to add savory to the rice. The rice is also wrapped in banana leaves and is grilled over a charcoal fire, adding a rich and smoky taste to the dish. This meal is also perfect for lunch as it comes
The signature Bebek Panggang Mekudus.
with either beef rendang, chicken curry or fish stew. My lunch experience ended sweetly with a portion of Klepon Nilasari and Cendol Ngangenin for dessert. Klepon Nilasari is very much inspired by Indonesian klepon, a sweet delight made of rice flour filled with brown sugar, and served with shredded coconut. Kayumanis Resto gives a twist to the dish by using purple yam mixed with rice flour for vibrant colors on the outside, topped Nasi Bakar.
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
25
with shredded coconut, jackfruits and strawberries for a sweet sensation.
flavor of the meat, which comes from the juice, won’t dissolve.” As a result, Kayumanis Resto presents dishes that are true to their Indonesian roots, in Klepon Nilasari.
The refreshing Goyang Kawista.
terms of recipe and flavor. “As an Indonesian chef, it is my duty to promote Indonesian cuisine, not only to our guests, but
The Cendol Ngangenin is also
also to the country’s young chefs,”
just as interesting where a bowl of
he continued, adding his concern
sweet creamy coconut milk – infused
that he rarely finds Indonesian
with brown sugar, slices of jackfruit
cuisine in the curriculum during his
and cendol (made of rice flour) – is
time as a visiting chef in several
served fresh in a coconut shell. The
culinary colleges in Bali. “Indonesian
dish is even more unique with a
dishes may have thousands-year-
piece of kue lumpur (a traditional
old recipes, but unless we want to
mud cake) and a slice of kolak
present real authentic Indonesian
pisang (banana cooked with coconut milk and brown sugar). Indeed,
option is Bir Pletok from Jakarta, a
indulging in the Cendol Ngangenin
non-alcoholic drink that still gives a
felt like scooping layer after layer of
warm sensation with ginger infusion.
Chef Oka
Aside from its delightful local
ELEVATING TRADITION
dishes, Kayumanis Resto also serves
The wonderful Indonesian dishes at
selections of traditional drinks.
Kayumanis Resto are born from the
The Goyang Kawista drink is truly
hands of Chef Oka and his team.
refreshing with kawista fruit mixed
Chef Oka even went to Surabaya in
with lemonade, mint and soda, while
East Java, Yogyakarta and Jakarta to
Sinom from East Java is an amazing
search for some age-old recipes from
herbal drink for detoxification as it
local food joints. His determination
consists of tamarind leaves, turmeric
is to turn simple street food into five-
and palm sugar. Another perfect
star dishes. “Our challenge here is to recreate
Cendol Ngangenin.
cuisine, we can modify our local
Indonesian street food without
food with our own creativity.”
any use of artificial flavor and
And indeed, selections of elevated
preservatives, and present them
Indonesian cuisine is what he
in a high-quality presentation,”
presents at Kayumanis Resto.
stated Chef Oka when he came to
By Risty Nurraisa
my table. With that in mind, Chef Oka is leading the kitchen team to
Kayumanis Resto Jimbaran
have a deep understanding of each
Kayumanis Jimbaran Private Estate
ingredient in order to cook a dish
& Spa
to perfection. “For instance, to cook
Jalan Yoga Perkanthi, Jimbaran
beef rendang, we won’t use too much
(0361) 705-777
water to process the meat, so that the
www.kayumanis.com
26
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
PHOTOS COURTESY OF KAYUMANIS RESTO JIMBARAN
Indonesian traditional dessert.
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
27
PROFILE&PORTRAIT
And you are into nutrition as well. How do you actually want to be recognized? SN: I’d like to think of myself as a speaker and a listener. Every time I say something, my words can actually either help people or bring them down. Recently, I learned that I should give more encouraging words and be really careful with my words. I have been through an episode in my life you could call ‘depressed’. I am not proud of it but I don’t want to be ashamed of it because I went through it. And now I feel like I need to pull people out who are still stuck in that ‘hole’ and help them. Somehow, many people come directly to me to share what they have been through. I learn that sometimes people need me to only listen, while other times all they need is a smile or an opinion, though I
INDONESIAN TV PERSONA TURNS PLANT-BASED CHEF AND HEALER, SOPHIE NAVITA SHARES HER SECRETS TO HAPPINESS…
S
cents because I think they have to be listening to their own voice. When I speak or write, I really lean on God, The Source of All Words, and I believe that I can help bring a difference to a person’s life.
ophie Navita has been
as a wife to Pongki (an Indonesian
BB: What made you start the
a TV presenter since
musician) and a mother of two
“Indonesia Makan Sayur”
she was a little. But ever
children, a teacher at many cooking
movement?
since she moved from
classes as well as a presenter and
SN: I want all mothers to be able
Jakarta to Bali with her
singer when she travels out of Bali.
to serve healthy food at home.
family, she has turned her career
She has published books – her
The definition of healthy food is
path from entertainment industry
second one is coming out at the
food with high nutrition, and it can
to the holistic and culinary world
end of this year, titled “Hati yang
be found mostly in vegetables,
that makes her a healer and one of
Gembira adalah Obat” (A Happy
organic vegetables especially. I
Indonesia’s first plant-based chefs,
Heart is a Medicine). To Bali &
am happy enough to encourage
as well as a nutrition enthusiast – she
Beyond (BB), Sophie Navita (SN)
mothers to cook and serve healthy
is the founder of “Indonesia Makan
shares her secrets…
vegetable dishes for their whole
Sayur”, a national movement that
family members. But seeing some
encourages people to eat more
BB: So, you are a singer and a plant-
pictures of tumis kangkung (sautéed
vegetables. She also juggles her time
based chef, among other things.
kangkung), sayur bening (spinach
28
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
PHOTOS BY JAKA DWI DHARMA (WWW.JAKADHARMA.WEBS.COM)
SOPHIE’S CHOICE
am careful about giving my two--
Sophie’s gluten-free doughnuts are available on the weekends at Pison Coffee in Seminyak.
other people and their energy ot
BB: What do you do to make
towards us. to
yourself happy then?
The journey of my own self-love
SN: I have been working since I
is a really long one, especially
was 9 years old, and now I am in
because I have issues with my father. be
my early 40s. I used to think that I
He is a father figure, he is always H
deserved everything in this life, that I
there for me but we just didn’t get th
could do anything I wanted with the
along until two years ago when my al
money I got from work. That was my
soup) or green smoothies that they
world was falling apart. Everything
happiness. But you cannot pay for
made and posted to our Instagram
went wrong and I started to grow
happiness, can you? Now for me,
account @idmakansayur, it makes
thinner because of depression. That
when my kids are in bed early, and
me feel even more delighted. That
moment, I decided to stop blaming
I have my “me” time in my room to
kind of response always surprise me!
others. It was a very big step for
pray until I cry my eyes out or check
me because I have been a person
out Pinterest, I feel better. That is my
BB: What do you want to share in
who had always been putting
true happiness. Simple!
your classes?
blame on other people. It was like
By Wiwin Wirwidya
SN: I want people to have
a shortcoming for me. For instance,
better knowledge about organic
when I could not tolerate things
vegetables. Choosing organic
that happened at work, I thought
vegetables also means we support
about getting out of the place to find
our local farmers. That is why,
something else that works for me.
www.sophienavita.com
“Indonesia Makan Sayur” is also a
After that recognition, my life started
moral and important movement that
to fall into place, slowly but surely.
strives to bring a lot of benefits to
And I realized that acceptance is the
everyone involved in it, from when
answer, or as the Javanese call it,
the vegetables are planted, then
“Nrimo.”
grow and are harvested from farm fields, and then cooked, served and
BB: Why did you and your family
consumed.
move to Bali from Jakarta? SN: It was a holistic reason,
BB: Your book is about self-
actually. My husband and I wanted
discovery. How do you encourage
to rebuild our family values. I do not
people to love themselves?
blame Jakarta for it. But in Jakarta,
SN: I think that is the battle for every
we could not function as a family as
single human being on this earth.
well as we are here in Bali. But there
We were born into the fallen world,
are challenges, of course. When
we were born from a fallen legacy
Pongki is out for a tour, I have to
— I learn a theory of creation where
stay at home with the kids and that
Adam and Eve fell and we are their
is not easy. I used to have my own
offspring. And there is no way, no
income, and staying at home is like
matter how gentle and loving your
training for me on how to be a real
parents are, even for a newborn
housewife. Managing the family
baby to love himself or herself. We
finances is not easy, yet somehow
still have a 10 percent chance of
it humbles me because I know my
developing some sort of self-loathing
ot husband works so hard and I cannot
because we simply can’t control
spend the money irresponsibly.
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
29
INVITE&INDULGE
TREASURED TRADITION
IMMERSE YOUR BODY AND SOUL INTO A SENSATIONAL TRADITIONAL SPA TREATMENT AT THE MARTHA TILAAR SALON DAY AND SPA, JIMBARAN, THE PERFECT SANCTUARY TO EXPERIENCE TRUE INDONESIAN BEAUTY RITUAL FROM HEAD TO TOE…
U
BORNEO BLISS Batimung is originally inspired by a treatment ritual of Banjarmasin people in South Borneo. At Martha Tilaar, this treatment is applied using all natural compositions such as citrus leaves, jasmine, pandanus leaves, and coconut oil as well as some traditional spices like temu giring (finger root), kenanga, and akarwangi – this concoction will detoxify the body through a body steam and massage. Before the therapy started, Ayu
pon entering the
Ayu, who has been working for
Martha Tilaar Salon
Martha Tilaar for years. She
let me choose one of the three
Day and Spa, I could
explained about the most popular
Babanyon oils, a traditional oil from
feel that my tension
treatment at the spa, the Batimung
Borneo made of traditional spices
was relieved already.
treatment, an ancient detoxifying
that Martha Tilaar uses for the
It was a hot sunny day in Bali, yet
ritual from Borneo. Listening to her
Batimung treatment. The three oils
the spa easily soothed me with a
story, it was easy to see why this
were Babanyon for pengantin oil
glass of cold sweet ginger tea that
treatment is the most favorite, and I
(for a wedding couple), Babanyon
instantly calmed my nerves down. I
couldn’t wait to have a try.
for energizing oil, and Babanyon for relaxing oil – I opted for the last one
was then introduced to the therapist,
as the scent of the spices were truly calming. My spa journey began with a 10-minute foot ritual or in a Banjarmasin’s term, “Barandam
Traditional herbs used for the Batimung treatment.
30
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
Batis”. My feet were soaked in a bowl of warm water, infused with Nagasari spices that consisted of lemongrass, citrus leaves, and some drops of Babanyon oil. Ayu also gave me a soft foot massage to cleanse my foot skin and get me prepared for a total relaxation.
The cengkaruk or body scrub session.
The 110-minute beauty treatment then continued with a body scrub or cengkaruk using black rice that benefits by cleaning dead skin cells away and making the skin brighter. After the body scrub, I took a bath with warm water and foam that is exclusively produced by Martha Tilaar. Then I was ready for the massage session. The 50-minute body massage or Ba’urut uses Babanyon oil mixed with lala’an or coconut oil for relaxing. During the massage, not
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
31
Getting ready for the Batimung treatment.
The bakasai or body mask treatment.
only did Ayu give top-notch pressure
Huripan spice. The detoxifying
in a traditional way and I felt so
on my nerve spots that needed
treatment ended with a relaxing bath
rejuvenated once the beauty journey
relaxing, but she also found the best
for about 20 minutes with a soothing
was done.
spots on my body to absorb the oil
sound of holistic music filling the
By Wiwin Wirwidya
and the natural ingredients. At this
room.
phase, I easily fell into a deep sleep
As I soaked my body in the warm
Martha Tilaar Salon Day and Spa
which indicated that the Babanyon
water, I breathed in the wonderful
Jalan Uluwatu I No. 99Z,
oil and the massage really worked
aroma of Babanyon oil deeply and
Kuta Selatan, Bali
well together.
tried not to think about anything. This
(0361) 472-5966
is truly a comforting spa experience
www.marthatilaarspa.com
The beauty journey went on with a body mask using Bakasai, a natural composition that consists of temu being completely masked, my body was steamed for 10 minutes so that my skin can absorb all the natural goodness and become moisturized. The water for the steam is also infused with some drops of Babanyon oil and Putri Huripan, another traditional concoction made of spices like banana leaves, young coconut, pandanus, brown rice and more. While I was sitting in the body steam machine, Ayu prepared me another hot tub with some drops of Babanyon oil and the rest of Putri
The Jamu Bar at Martha Tilaar Salon and Day Spa.
32
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
PHOTOS COURTESY OF MARTHA TILAAR SALON DAY AND SPA
giring and kaffir lime juice. After
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
33
SIGHTS&SOUNDS
CTS QUOTES AND FUN FA S, TO O PH F O RD A OUR CORK BO SEPTEMBER... D N A ST U G U A IN G HILE EXPLORIN THAT WE PICKED UP W
on the “Artisans of Bali” at Beautiful local arts are displayed showcased woven fabrics ition Seminyak Village. The exhib brand that works with d -base Ubud (an Life of ds by Threa n), bamboo-structured natio the ss acro ers over 12,000 weav ns made of palm ratio furniture by IBUKU, Balinese deco ns like stamps desig e uniqu and e, Scen a e Mak leaves by 12. ber Octo until lasts by Elami. The exhibition
Unique and fun-looking statues and paintings by Heart Lab Bali are on display at Artotel Sanur. Don’t miss it, as the exhibition will run until November 15!
iera re fun with the Riv ll sure be a lot mo Your Sundays wi sort. Available Re h ac Be a Du Bali Nusa ulge you Brunch at Sofitel ay Brunch will ind 3 p.m., this Sund cuisine. n ea an err from 11 a.m. to dit h, Italian and Me nc Fre of the ay ve arr ha u with an wear as yo 34 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017 ng your best swim Don’t forget to bri ol. po ss the swimming ce ac to e eg vil pri
th and September 13 , preciation day on ap ne wi y. a wa s wa fun It the most li celebrated it in like a g irin Hatten Wines Ba Pa d an g d “Wine Tastin ial In an event theme ests to learn spec brand invited gu the l”, na sio best way, like fes the Pro in ne wi g vin iring and ha ular type techniques of pa ne, smell a partic te the color of wi dishes the to it g how to differentia e pairin se the taste befor of wine, and sen s. with certain spice
A new dining destination is revealed at Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach Hotel! The Makase restaurant and café turns Balinese street food and drinks into five-star creations.
BY RISTY NURRAISA AND WIWIN WIRWIDYA PHOTOS OF HATTEN WINES AND INDIGO HOTEL BY JAKA DHARMA, ALL OTHERS COURTEYS PHOTOS
We thank you fo r all the photos se nt to our Instagram accoun t. These are the tw o of our favorites of th e month. Keep ta gging us (@baliandbeyond magazine) on Insta gram and your photos might be in our ne xt issue!
The beauty of Banyumala Tw in Waterfalls there. Let’s go by @howtoge n explore it! lde go its d t_ an h ac Be ta Ku t sho ctly @aabdw_13 perfe BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017 35 . sand during sunset
REST&RELAXATION
“Ambarrukmo” is derived from two words; “Ambar” means fragrance and “Rukmo” means regal luxury.
A ROYAL TALE
EXPERIENCE YOGYAKARTA AT ITS BEST BY STAYING AT THE CITY’S URBAN ICON, ROYAL AMBARRUKMO YOGYAKARTA, AN INTEGRATED COMPLEX WHERE AGE-OLD RITUALS AND HERITAGE SITES MEET MODERN LIFE…
W
Yet, the hotel still sends a homey vibe as the staff welcomed me with a big smile and presented a cup of hot secang, a Javanese traditional beverage, while helping me with my check in. Royal Ambarrukmo provides 247 rooms and suites in five different types – Deluxe Room, Premiere Room, Junior Suite, Executive Suite
hen I
hotel where I was going to stay for
and Ambarrukmo Suite. Each room
arrived at
four days, already presented its
has a stylish design with touches
Adisucipto
top-notch hospitality.
of local inspirations, and a private
International Airport
It took only 10 minutes from the
balcony overlooking the city’s
airport to the hotel by car. Standing
skyline, the resort’s Royal garden
after a one-and-a-half hour flight
in the heart of the city, the award-
or the marvelous Mount Merapi.
from Bali, a man holding a tablet
winning Royal Ambarrukmo - the
In a second, I fell in love with my
with my name written on the display
hotel has received world-class
Premiere Room which is set with
was already waiting at the exit.
awards like the International Asia
lavish bedding and a balcony facing
Greeting me warmly and assisting
Pacific Hotel Awards 2017/2018,
the hotel’s swimming pool and
me with my baggage, he then
among others - looks so magnificent
Mount Merapi. However, I couldn’t
took me to a car that said, “Royal
from the outside with its all-white
wait to explore the rest of the hotel
Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta”. Within
exterior and manicured front yard.
through the Heritage Tour & Koi Fish
minutes after I set foot in the city,
The interior is just as lavish with
Feeding program, conducted by
Royal Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta, the
marbled floor and warm hues.
Khairul Anwar, the hotel’s Marketing
36
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
of the hotel remains the same since 1964. We can only redesign the interior which was just done in 2011,” Khairul continued. “This hotel is like a museum with several artworks displayed from the ‘60s, like this one,” Khairul pointed to a relief made of andesite rocks next to the main entrance. Titled “Untung Rugi di Lereng Merapi” (the Good and Bad Times at Merapi Volcano),
The Royal garden with a bale, a koi fish pond and a jogging track.
the relief exposes the lives of the
& Communications Manager. Thus, a tale from the ‘60s revealed…
EVERLASTING ARTWORK “The history of Royal Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta goes back to 1964 when the hotel was first established under the name ‘Ambarrukmo Palace Hotel’,” stated Khairul as we began our tour at the lobby. The building
The Premiere Room with a view of Mount Merapi.
itself is also historical as it used to serve as a Japanese governmental office during their colonization.
the hotel now becomes an urban
When Japan was defeated, President
icon of Yogyakarta where traditions
Soekarno turned the building into
blend perfectly with modernity.
one of the first exclusive hotels in Indonesia. After more than 50 years,
people at Mount Merapi. The hotel also showcases two mosaics made of ceramic tiles
“Royal Ambarrukmo is a heritage building. That’s why, the exterior
from the ‘60s created by artist J. Soedhiono and team. The first one is titled “Kehidupan Masyarakat Yogyakarta” (the Lives of Yogyakarta
“Kehidupan Masyarakat Yogyakarta”, one of the artworks from the ‘60s.
Society). Located on the eighth floor next to the Karaton ballroom, this artwork is displayed on 10 meter-high walls and looks sharp with vibrant colors. The other one, titled “Kehidupan Masyarakat Jawa Tengah” (the Lives of Central Java Society), is displayed on the first floor, right next to Royal Restaurant, with warmer hues. The hotel’s lush Royal garden also has its own story. The swimming
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
37
now transformed into Nurkadhatyan The Ritual Spa. Managed by the Sultan’s five daughters and a spa master, the spa offers selections of age-old Keraton’s beauty rituals with the use of homemade products. One of the rooms even has a bathtub made of Merapi’s andesite rock to absorb negative energies and help balance one’s mind, body and soul, Surrounded by a pond, the Bale Kambang now serves as a yoga venue and a private dinner with mandatory Javanese customs and rules.
making this spa one of the best in Yogyakarta. Get pampered at Nurkadhatyan The Ritual Spa
pool for adults used to function as a mini Olympic pool for athletes, but now it has been redesigned into a beautiful resort-style pool with daybeds, surrounded by bronze sculptures also from the ‘60s. Next to the main pool is the kid’s pool and the fitness center. Walking further into the garden is a playground where a Kid’s Club is underway and a jogging track. The Royal garden is home to many trees and plants, from longan The complex consists of Pendopo
The Bale Kambang (the Floating
the hotel’s own recycled water.
Agung (the Royal living room) to
Hut) stands behind the Gadri.
Three gazebos stand in the garden,
host many events and celebrations,
This octagon-shaped alfresco hall
one of them is surrounded by a
including Patehan (the hotel’s daily
is surrounded by a pond where
Koi fish pond, making it a perfect
royal high tea ceremony); Ndalem
the princesses used to swim. And
sanctuary to relax while listening to
Agung where the Sultan Hamengku
in this hall, the Sultan used to do
the sounds of nature.
Buwono VII lived until his last breath
meditation. Now, it functions as a
(now it serves as a museum); and
yoga place for hotel guests every
ROYAL LEGACY
Gadri which is and has always been
Saturday morning.
Standing on a site owned by the
used as the Royal Dining Room – I
Keraton Yogyakarta (the city’s
can only imagine how special an
GET CULTURED
Sultanate), the Royal Ambarrukmo
intimate dinner in Gadri must be as
Royal Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta also
has a close relationship with the
guests get to indulge in delicious
embraces Javanese culture in its
city’s royal family. Within the hotel
meals in the Sultan’s dining area!
guest activities, one of them being
area stands Kedaton Ambarrukmo
Still in the Kedaton complex
the Jemparingan session, an ancient
(a mini palace complex) from the
is Gandhok Tengen (where the
Javanese archery. Every Friday
18th century that is still preserved
princesses and female Royal servants
afternoon, a Jemparingan community
until today.
and guests used to live) which is
comes to compete at the Pendopo
38
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
PHOTO OF BORBOBUDUR TEMPLE BY RISTY NURRAISA. ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF ROYAL AMBARRUKMO YOGYAKARTA
trees to orchids, all are grown with
Agung, and guests can join them before the course ends. Wearing a Javanese kebaya and batik sarong, I signed up for this class which was quite challenging as we had to do it by sitting down with our legs crossed! In between the Jemparingan session, when the archers took a break, the Patehan – a royal high tea ritual – was served
Selections of breakfast buffet at the Royal Restaurant.
in the Pendopo Agung, presenting Javanese traditional light bites, coffee and tea. Royal Ambarrukmo
Situated in a strategic location,
the hotel offers include a visit to
Yogyakarta has other classes
Royal Ambarrukmo is also close to
Mendut Temple, Keraton Yogyakarta
throughout the week, such as flutes
Yogyakarta’s tourist destinations, from
and Borobudur Temple, as well as
on Mondays, Javanese dance on
historical sites like Prambanan Temple
sunrise in Borobudur! Simply book
Tuesdays and batik classes on the
to shopping and culinary scene like
a hotel car (with additional charge)
third Wednesday of the month.
Malioboro. Other cultural tours that
or take public transportation like the TransJogja bus to tour the town. Experiencing street food in Yogyakarta is a must, but the hotel also serves authentic dishes in its all-day Royal Restaurant that are worth trying. During breakfast, Royal Restaurant presents Gudeg and jamu (traditional food and drink respectively) made by surrounding local sellers, while other flavorsome local food like Soto Tangkar is perfect for lunch or dinner, paired
Dawn at the Borobudur Temple.
with a glass of cold secang. Other dining places are Punika Deli that offers sandwiches, gelato and other light bites until midnight, and Lobby Lounge & Bar that presents live music performances. And for a quick taste of the city’s vibe, the Plaza Ambarrukmo, one of the grandest malls in town, is right next door. By Risty Nurraisa Royal Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta Jalan Laksda Adisucipto No. 81,
Learn about Jemparingan, an ancient Javanese archery, from the professionals.
Yogyakarta, (0274) 488-488 www.royalambarrukmo.com
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
39
FOTOFOLIO
BEYOND THE TOURISTS Bali attracts an average of five million tourists per year, which is huge, considering it is just one of a whopping 18,000 islands that make up Indonesia. People flock here for the sun, surf, sand, yoga, and trendy cafés but I was interested in seeing the ‘real’ Bali, in particular, the real people of Bali, away from the crowds of tourists. So, I hired a local driver for the day and asked him to take me anywhere he liked away from the crowds, to show me his views of Bali. We wandered into tiny villages, sampled produce at local markets, navigated through rice paddies, and engaged with dozens of beautiful local people with the warmest smiles and biggest hearts. We were invited into someone’s house for a wedding ceremony, met some kids who squealed with delight upon seeing us, saw men and women working hard at their crafts, and immersed ourselves in the colors and feels of this charismatic island. The local people are at the heart, so do yourself a favor and get to know the heart of Bali. By Cari Hill www.nowbecomingthen.co.nz Instagram: @nowbecomingthen0
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ACTION&ATTRACTION
THE SPICE TRAILS WE TOOK AN UPHILL DRIVE TO SEE THE HISTORICAL SPICE TRAILS THAT MADE BALI AND THE REST OF THE ARCHIPELAGO SO ATTRACTIVE TO THE EUROPEANS IN THE 16TH CENTURY WITH WAKALANDCRUISE…
I
ndonesia’s archipelago has
THE CHOSEN ONE
been popular worldwide due to
It was 8 a.m. when I found myself
its spices since the 16th century.
sitting in a rigid but comfortable
Ironically, this popularity also
four-by-four Land Rover Defender,
brought colonization to the
a British brand of all-terrain vehicle
country until Indonesia finally took
that is still used by a wide range of
its freedom in 1945. Now, the
the four-by-four market to this day,
spice trails in the archipelago have
from British armed forces, civilians
become historical, including the one
to a Serengeti safari operator for
in Bali. And for those who are up for
observation needs. This square-
some history and adventure at the
shaped vehicle is made of strong
same time, WakaLandCruise offers
aluminum construction with a diesel
a full-day trip to treasure a lifetime.
engine, which means it resembles a
Come and join me on my recent
lightweight class of fighter; agile and
ride to the balmy village of Ubud,
light but still can deliver the sting
an area that is famous for its art and
whenever needed. This is the chosen
cuisine, to reveal a sweet surprise...
ride for many outdoor enthusiasts,
A walk through the Tjampuhan ridge.
and it is surely more than able to survive the zombie apocalypse.
The four-by-four Land Rover Defender.
The four of us, including the super informative yet skillful driver Teddy, were ready in our seats. Teddy has been working with the WakaLandCruise for seven years, so he knew the procedure really well – he continuously fed us information about each destination and the importance of sitting up straight with three points seatbelts. Mind you, this vehicle is built for an adventure, and that means safety is the rule of thumb.
CRUISE THE LAND Trust me, nothing beats the drive
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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
The hidden Kanto LampoWaterfalls.
uphill on a Saturday morning in a
cocoa, ginseng to earthy cloves all
four-by-four Land Rover Defender.
grow healthily in dark brown soil,
brought us to the finish line; a
Taking the side roads, Teddy
which proves that the land is rich
small shack next to a narrow deer
knew the route like the back of his
with ground nutrients, a blessings by
trail and a rice field. There was a
hand. The first stop was Teba Sari
the dearly Dewi Sri, goddess of soil
communal table made of rustic wood
agrotourism at Lodtunduh Gianyar,
and fertility in Bali. The highlight of
where the crew served us traditional
a few kilometers away before Ubud
this destination is surely the highly
morning bites consisting of deep
– this was only the beginning of our
regarded Kopi Luwak or Palm Civet
fried bananas, sweet shredded
journey, but already I could feel the
coffee. “The luwak coffee has to be
coconut rolled in thick rice paper,
excitement. Teba Sari, a Balinese
Arabica beans and it takes months
and 15 cups of different infused teas
name that literally means “the sweet
of long process from picking up the
from the yard.
harvests from the garden”, truly lives
beans to cleaning them until they are
up to the name. A pebble stone yard
ready to consume. The coffee has
to the deeper heart of Ubud.
welcomed us as our guide Komang
a unique end result with low level
WakaLandCruise took us to the
walked us through this 50 acres
of acid and caffeine, which is safe
Tjampuhan ridge – we explored
of lush, well-manicured traditional
for people who have gastric acid
this area from the northern end.
garden.
history,” Komang explained with her
This free and easy natural track
bright smile.
made of paved stones is popular
A range of spice trees from ginger,
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
49
The short walk in Teba Sari
Then, our journey continued
where we had our scrumptious lunch. As soon as our hungry tummies were filled, we all hopped back into the Land Rover and headed on our way to the mystical Kanto Lampo waterfall. “Mystical” I think is the right word to describe Kanto Lampo which is pretty much laying low under the radar, outshined by the popular Aling-aling or Gitgit waterfall in Singaraja – I mean, even a local writer like me has not heard much about this spot before. Of course, there is a positive side to it. Kanto Lampo is considerably “underground” and not so touristy, so visitors can expect to have the waterfall all to themselves. This scenic natural wonder is a seasonal waterfall that cascades down a stepped rock wall into a waist-deep among Ubud visitors. This ridge is
air, gentle breeze and screaming
clear pond. This was the perfect
also accessible by foot or bike, but
cicadas accompanied our walk for a
spot to cool ourselves down after the
motorbikes are strictly prohibited.
good 30 to 45 minutes, until we got
ridge walk and mouth-watering lunch
The trek is considerably easy with
to the southern end. We crossed the
before hopping back into the Land
a distance spanning around two
main road to enter Murni’s warung,
Rover and heading back to jam-
kilometers. Strolling here surely gave
an iconic eating pad which has
packed Denpasar.
us a unique experience of a typical
been running since 1974, making
By Gino Andrias
back road near Ubud, away from
it the first real restaurant in Ubud.
the hustle of the main road. The cool
As WakaLandCruise’s guests, this is
WakaLandCruise Jalan Imam Bonjol 467, Denpasar (0361) 484-085
TRAVELLING TIPS: • Wear a pair of comfortable shoes or mountain sandals with strap with quality sole and grip, as there will be a lot of walking. • A pair of sunglasses is a must. • A loose long sleeve T-shirt might be a good idea, especially for the Tjampuhan ridge walk.
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PHOTOS BY GINO ANDRIAS
www.wakahotelsandresorts.com
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BEYONDBALI
MAGICAL LAKE
JOIN OUR CONTRIBUTOR EDNA TARIGAN EXPLORING LABUAN CERMIN, A CRYSTAL CLEAR LAKE IN EAST BORNEO…
“L
et’s go to Lake
on the surface and salty water at
Labuan Cermin
the deeper level, and they do not
someday in the
intermix with each other. The lake is
near future,” a dear
even more popular than the district
by a six-hour road trip to Biduk-
friend of mine said
itself, and I was curious enough to
biduk, we took a motor boat that
see its beauty with my own eyes.
can accommodate up to 10 people
one day. It was only two months later that we made the trip come
Many visitors go to Labuan
to reach the lake. The 15-minute
true. Pictures of a blue lake with a
Cermin as a part of their trip to
boat ride from our homestay in
small boat floating with almost no
Derawan and Maratua Islands,
Biduk-biduk Village was the start of
reflections on the waters were filling
which are also located in Berau
our adventure…
my head. I saw those photos on
regency. However, during my visit
social media, and they were enough
to Labuan Cermin, I opted to stay in
CRYSTAL CLEAR
to make me agree to go on this trip.
Biduk-biduk district rather than make
The view as we cruised on the motor
a trip to Derawan and Maratua
boat was already breathtaking,
biduk district of Berau regency in
Islands, as I wanted to cherish my
even before we arrived at the lake.
East Borneo, Labuan Cermin is a
time at the lake. So, after a flight
Tosca waters with greenery along its
meromictic lake which is famous for
from Jakarta to Kalimarau Airport in
sides made a picture-perfect scenery
its two layers of water – fresh water
Tanjung Redeb in Berau, followed
during our journey from the pier to
Situated at the entrance of Biduk-
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Tosca waters and greenery on our way to Labuan Cermin.
the lake. Sometimes, we encountered
the lake. And every second we
the lake really is. The nearest part
other boats that just got back from
spent on the water, I found myself
of the lake to the land is almost five-
the lake. And when we finally
mesmerized by the scenery. I thought
meters deep already. That is why,
entered Labuan Cermin area… I was
the lake was full of underwater
he warned us to be careful when
lost for words.
ecosystem that made the water so
swimming in the lake.
The lake takes about one hectare
blue. But after a couple of minutes
With waters so pristine, Lake
and is surrounded by jungle. There is
staring at the waters from the boat,
Labuan Cermin is perfect for
a small pier made of plastic barrels
my jaw dropped as I realized just
swimming and snorkeling. So,
and wood that connects the lake
how crystal clear the water really
make sure to bring snorkeling and
with the land. The area was almost
is – I could see rocks and some fish
swimming gear when visiting this
deserted – there was only our group
swimming under the surface.
lake.
and another boat tied to the pier. I felt like the lake was ours alone. Before we stopped at the pier, our boat skipper took us around
According to our skipper, the lake may seem shallow as we can see
PICTURE PERFECT
underwater life from the boat, but no
As photography enthusiasts, we
one ever actually knows how deep
didn’t want to miss the chance to
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
53
take some “compulsory pictures” in Labuan Cermin; that is to take photos on the boat with almost no reflections at all on the water. This is to create an illusion that our boat is flying rather than floating on the water. This photo style has become
With almost no reflection on the waters, it seems like our boat is flying rather than floating.
iconic to Labuan Cermin on social was so intrigued by this lake.
snorkeled in the waters, my curiosity
and go deeper into the lake. This is
about Labuan Cermin as a meromictic
definitely one of the best swimming
to snap this illusive picture as the
lake was met. I could see the layers
experiences in a natural wonder I’ve
best time is only between 11 a.m. to
under the surface where waters with
ever had in my life.
2 p.m. when the sun is right above
different characters and temperatures
Before dusk came, we had to
our heads. During this time, not only
separate from each other. It was such
leave the lake. On our way back on
can we get the flying-boat illusion,
a unique experience. The water was
the boat, I said to myself that I would
but we can also capture the lake
also so refreshing that we spent hours
go back to Biduk-biduk district and
at its brightest color. With patience
exploring almost the whole part of the
visit Lake Labuan Cermin again next
and determination, we managed to
lake.
time. But before that time comes, I
However, it is quite challenging
take some shots and were proud of the result! After taking our “compulsory
The roots and tree branches under
would like to perfect my swimming
the water were another interesting
and free diving so I can explore
discovery as I swam deeper. And
the deeper level of the lake when I
pictures”, it was time to take a
I can only imagine how fun it
return.
swim in the crystal clear water. As I
would be to do free diving here
By Edna Tarigan
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PHOTOS BY EDNA TARIGAN
media, and also one of the reasons I
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
55
CAPITALCORNER
WHEN THE
CITY’S ASLEEP
OUR CONTRIBUTOR FADIL AZIZ CHERISHED THE ONLY TIME OF THE YEAR WHEN JAKARTA WAS QUITE DESERTED…
I
magine a city with about 10
then renamed to Jayakarta, but in
million people and more coming
early 17th AD, the Dutch seized the
to either work, travel or simply
port of Jayakarta and changed its
live. Can we call it a gargantuan
name to Batavia.
city? Maybe we can, since the
Batavia played a very important
sprawling city becomes even larger
role during the Dutch colonization
over time, packed with more people,
as it became the administrative and
vehicles, apartments, offices, and
capital city of the Dutch East Indies
so on. The city now even “eats up”
for more than three centuries. The
its neighboring areas, transforming
Dutch built a magnificent Stadhuis
into an even bigger urban town
(a big spice warehouse) and
with about 30 million people. This is
canals which can still be seen now
Jakarta, a metropolitan that is often
in the Old Batavia area – please
considered to be “never asleep”.
refer to our ‘Capital Corner’ of the
However, not many people know
June 2016 issue, titled “Historical
that there is a short time in the year
Buildings in the Old Area of
when Jakarta morphs into a sleeping
Jakarta”.
beauty and reveals its charm and charisma...
According to Britannica in 1910, during the colonization, the
work in Jakarta live in the satellite
population of the city ranged from
cities, which are often called “the
THE OLD DAYS
100,000-200,000 people. The
sphere”. The term “Greater Jakarta”
Jakarta was once a tiny trading
number increased dramatically to
is also commonly used to refer to
outpost of an inland Hindu kingdom
533,000 people (based on Forbes,
these areas which include Bogor,
around the estuary of Ciliwung
2004) in the first half of the 20
Depok, Tangerang, and Bekasi
River, about 600 years ago. In early
century. In 1949, the city was
(Jabodetabek). If we combine
th
16 AD, the Portuguese had an
renamed to Djakarta and has ever
the population of Jakarta with its
eye on this sleepy hamlet (named
since become the capital city of
spheres, the population reaches
Sunda Kalapa at that time) to find
Indonesia, attracting economy-driven
a staggering figure of about 32
a spice trade route in the Malay
people from all over the country,
million people! Can you imagine?
Archipelago. They established a
and the world. Hence, it has an
No wonder the Greater Jakarta
stronghold there, but Fatahillah, on
estimated population of 10 million
area is among the largest urban
behalf of the Sultanate of Demak,
people, making it the 10 largest
agglomerations on the planet.
conquered the Portuguese in Sunda
city in the world.
th
Kalapa in 1527. Sunda Kalapa was
th
However, many people who
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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
The daily traffic congestion is also proof of how big Jakarta is.
Jakarta looks more beautiful when the city lights are on.
Many of the city dwellers have to
Indonesian population reside here.
start their journey to the ofďŹ ce early
calendar that is celebrated throughout the world. To celebrate
in the morning just after the sun
THE SLEEPING BEAUTY
the beginning of a new chapter after
rises and return home long after it
Still, there is beauty and positivity to
spending a full month of fasting,
sets. Spending hours on the road is
this city. As I have mentioned earlier,
Muslims in Jakarta who have moved
a typical scenario and becomes a
many Jakarta people and commuters
out of their kampongs to work or
daily routine for the Jakarta people.
originated from other places in the
study will go back to their kampongs
Therefore, a thorough schedule is
country. At one point, they will make
to gather with their family members.
mandatory every day. A half hour
a return journey to their kampongs,
Thus, annual migration has become
difference can be a make or a
mostly back to Java and Sumatra to
a part of the celebration in the
break; you can either be on time or
visit their families and relatives. This
country as millions of people travel
even too early to your meeting or
usually happens during the Eid al-Fitr
out of Jakarta using all kind of
end up wasting too much time in the
holiday that falls after the fasting
vehicles, leaving the city empty and
trafďŹ c and return rather late at night.
month of Ramadhan.
a bit deserted.
Sounds scary? It is. This is what happens when almost 12 percent of
Eid al-Fitr, or Lebaran, is one
Off they go, and all the streets
of the holiest days in the Islamic
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
are empty, especially in the ďŹ rst few
57
there weren’t any helicopters whatsoever. Less people on the ground also means less risk. The air was also far from polluted. I could even see mountains surrounding Greater Jakarta quite clearly in the distance, among them Mount Salak, Mount Gede Pangrango, and the Halimun on the west; Puncak and Sentul area on the South; and Hambalang and Kelapa Nunggal days of Lebaran – however, many of them stay behind in Jakarta and go
hustle and traffic congestion. As the city is more “asleep” than
hill on the East. This was pretty amazing. I can tell you that this is
to amusement parks, museums and
usual, it is probably best to tour
quite a rare occasion during my 40
malls on the following day, so it’s
Jakarta using a bicycle (or simply
years of living in the city.
better to avoid these places to get
walk) and visit the Old Batavia
away from the crowd. Restaurants,
area. You can also go to the Pasar
choose, enjoying Jakarta when
food joints and cafés are still open
Ikan area, Senayan, and many
most of the population are off to
to serve customers, especially on the
other places. This year, I opted to
their kampongs would be a great
second or third day after Lebaran.
hunt for some cityscape pictures,
experience. The city will reward
Still, Jakarta morphs into a sleeping
focusing on aerial views. I was
you with gorgeous scenery which is
beauty. For me personally, this is
able to fly my drone safely enough
precious to treasure for a lifetime.
the time to enjoy the city without any
compared to normal days because
By Fadil Aziz
PHOTOS BY FADIL AZIZ (WWW.ALCIBBUMPHOTOGRAPHY.COM)
No matter what activities you
When the city is quite empty, the sky is clearer.
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59
BEYONDUPDATES
WELLNESS RETREAT
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
Imagine joining a yoga class on a private island, under a 100-foot waterfall, surrounded by rice paddy fields with a view of an untouched beach – it’s truly blissful, isn’t it? Now you don’t have to fantasize about it anymore because Nihi Sumba Islands offers all of that in their first ever “Wild & Free” yoga retreat. From October 7 to 12, this program is conducted by two yoga experts; Sjana Earp, a young yogi and a photojournalist who is passionate about young women empowerment, and Rod Cooper, the owner of The Movement Collective in Australia which focuses on animal flow, gymnastics, acrobatics and calisthenics. The classes will combine hatha, vinyasa, and restorative yoga as well as breathing techniques and meditation. Aside from wellness activities, this retreat also takes guests to explore the island’s tropical jungle, discover an ancient tribal culture, visit serene beaches and trek the Nihioka Valley to enjoy a walk through rice paddy fields with a view of Indian Ocean. Nihi Sumba Islands, Sumba, East Nusa Tenggara Bali office: (0361) 757-149 www.nihihotels.com
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COMMUNITYCALENDAR
FISHERMEN’S FESTIVAL On October 5, don’t miss the island’s first ever boat festival! Hosted by Plataran L’Harmonie in West National Bali Park in West Bali, the “Menjangan Fisherman Boat Carnival 2017” will display colorful traditional fisherman boats on Menjangan’s tranquil waters. The festival is also merrier with a Full Moon Tirta Yatra Celebration at Pulaki and Segara Giri Menjangan Temple, a dance and music performance from Benih Kasih Orphans and a beach cleanup activity. This special event starts at 9 a.m., and presents a fishermen-village-themed buffet dinner with Indonesian dishes at The Octagon Ocean Club, available at Rp. 350,000 nett/ person. www.plataranlharmonie.com
IT’S A BATIK DAY!
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
Following its success last year, Ayodya Batik Festival returns at Ayodya Resort Bali on October 6, 7 and 8. Held at the resort’s Grand Ballroom, the festival is the place to be for everyone who wants to learn about the rich heritage of batik. On October 7, don’t miss a fashion show by talented Indonesian designers like Dwi Iskandar and Afif Shukar, as well as a 14-course gala rijstaffel dinner (available from Rp. 950,000 nett/person) with music by Maya Hassan and Balawan. And on October 8, the festival will be merrier with a fashion show by Joko SPP and Lumiga, followed by a buffet dinner with a live performance by Crazy Horse Band, available at Rp. 250,000 nett/person. To book a ticket, simply drop an email to pr@ ayodyaresortbali.com. The threeday event starts at 10 a.m. Ayodya Resort Bali Jalan Pantai Mengiat, Nusa Dua (0361) 77-1102 www.ayodyaresortbali.com
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Together with 15FIT, a Bali fitness training studio, W Resort - Seminyak presented the resort’s first ever “Silent Spin” at WooSky. Participants were invited to join a cycle fit class with the sound of W music playing through headphones. The fun continued with the “Silent Disco” at Woobar with DJ Crip, DJ Kulki and the W’s resident DJ Damian Saint. All proceeds from the “Silent Spin” are donated to Bali Mother & Baby House. www.wbaliseminyak.com
IN HARMONY Introducing its new Ashtanga Yoga weekly class, The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali hosted a private yoga session conducted by the resort’s Wellness Specialist, Jitendra Pokhriyal. Ashtanga Yoga combines breathing technique with movements, which can help participants achieve a harmonious mental and physical health. www.westinnusaduabali.com
IT’S A RACE! Hand in hand with Bali Safari & Marine Park, the Maybank Bali Marathon 2017 was back for the sixth time! This year, the race welcomed more than 9000 participants from around the world, competing in Full Marathon, Half Marathon and 10K run. Even children can also joined this event in the 400-meter and 100-meter sprint competition. www.balimarathon.com 64
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
UBUD VILLAGE JAZZ FESTIVAL PHOTOS BY JAKA DHARMA, ALL OTHERS COURTESY PHOTOS
SEE&SEEN
SPIN AND DANCE
SOUNDS OF INDONESIA Celebrating the rich diversity of Indonesia’s archipelago, Padma Resort Legian presented “Rhapsody Nusantara” where Indonesian musician Ananda Sukarlan beautifully played a number of national and classic songs with a piano. His performance was accompanied by Indonesian young talented soprano singer, Mariskan Setiawan. www.padmaresortlegian.com
NUSA DUA FIESTA For the fourth year in a row, Bali Collection successfully hosted “Bali Collection Festival”. Located at Bali Collection Block A within the ITDC area in Nusa Dua, the event began with “Carnival Runway – A Carnival Outfit Design Competition”, continued with a makeover session by The Shampoo Lounge and a sunset cocktail party. The night was also alive with music and artsy performance by Yuni Shara and Jasmine Okubo respectively, and a fashion show by a number of designers like Dwico, Elfi Lila, and Linda Rose. www.bali-collection.com
BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017
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ILLUSTRATION MAPS BY ADE PARTHA & RIO WEDAYANA
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INFOINDEX
AIRLINES
Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz
Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 E-mail: rtc_bali@thaimail.com
■ AIRPORT OPERATOR Tel: (0361) 751-011
■ FRANCE
■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS
Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id
■ TIMOR LESTE Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com
■ GERMANY
■ UNITED STATES
Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369
Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com
Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id
■ ROYAL BRUNEI
■ HUNGARY
Tel: (0361) 757-292
■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: huconbali@telkom.net
Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 936-8388, Fax: (0361) 936-8383
■ INDIA
■ GARUDA Jl. Jalan Sugianyar, 5 Denpasar
Jl. Raya Puputan 163, Renon - Denpasar Tel. (0361) 259-502/259-503 Fax.(0361) 259-505
Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888
■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA
Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807
■ MERPATI Jl. Gatot Subroto Tengah, 26 Denpasar Tel: (0361) 411-364 Airport Tel: (0361) 9351-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741
■ MANDALA AIRLINES Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar, Reservation Call center 08041234567
■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761
HEALTH&MEDICAL
■ ITALY Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org
■ JAPAN Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: denpasar@dp.mofa.go.jp
■ MALAYSIA Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com
■ THAI INTERNATIONAL Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141
■ QATAR AIRWAYS Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Departure International Terminal, 2nd fl. – Room OP.II.8 East Wing Ngurah Rai International Airport Tel: (0361) 9360274; Fax : (0361) 9360275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 75,000. No Fiscal tax-exempt to pay for Indonesian and expatriates holding KITAS for International departure. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011
■ MEXICO PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com
Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.
■ NETHERLANDS
■ ROYAL DANISH Sunset Road No. 89 Ruko Sunset Indah I Kav. 3 Tel: (0361) 821-6979, Fax: (0361) 7666-38 E-mail: danishconsbali@gmail.com
CLINIC&HOSPITAL 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515
(ARMA) Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm
■ ABIAN KAPAS Jl. Nusa Indah, East Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-176
■ ANTONIO BLANCO Ubud , Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551 open daily 8 am-5 pm
■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Pejeng, Tel: (0361) 942-352 Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays
■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends
■ GALLERY SENIWATI Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar ■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.
■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended
■ MUSEUM NEKA Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm.
Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com
■ MUSEUM RUDANA Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud
■ MUSEUM SUBAK Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan
■ BIMC Hospital Kuta ■ POLAND
■ BRITAIN
■ SPAIN
■ BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua
Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id
Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 E-mail: espana_bali@blueline.net.id
24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre, Dialysis Centre, Dental Centre. Kawasan BTDC, Blok D, Nusa Dua 80363, Tel: (0361) 3000-911, Fax: (0361) 3001-150
NEW ZEALAND Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au
■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART
■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC
Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com
■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA,
MUSEUMS
■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN
KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com
24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre for non-invasive and invasive cosmetic and aesthetic treatments. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 761-263, Fax: (0361) 767-701
CONSULATES
■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15
Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 E-mail: consul@balipolandconsulate.com
■ SLOVAKIA
TOURIST INFO. ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188
■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL
■ BRAZIL Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 E–mail: brazilconsul@bali.net
■ SWEDEN & FINLAND Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 E-mail: sweconsul@yahoo.com
■ CHILE Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com
■ CZECH REPUBLIC Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur.
■ THAILAND Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81,
70
■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76
■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387
■ SILOAM HOSPITALS
■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41
24-hour emergency 779-911 Jl. Sunset Road No. 818, Kuta, Badung, Bali Tel: +62-361-779-900 E-mail: info.bali@siloamhospitals.com
■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm
■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA Jl. Ganetri 9 D, Gatot Subroto Timur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 264-149, Fax: (0361) 243-747 E-mail: bali@honrep.ch
AIRPORT Tel: (0361) 751-011
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