Bali & Beyond Magazine October 2017

O C T O B E R 2 017 VOLUME 19 NO. 209

TREASURED

A ROYAL TALE

TRADITION

STAY AT ROYAL AMBARRUKMO YOGYAKARTA

BATIMUNG TREATMENT FROM SOUTH BORNEO

ONLY IN INDONESIA

www.baliandbeyond.co.id

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AGE-OLD RITUALS FROM ACROSS THE ARCHIPELAGO BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

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TEAMTALK

ONLY IN INDONESIA ‘Om Swastiastu...’

Spanning over 17,000 islands, Indonesia is so rich with different cultures, traditions, food and so much more. Each area has its own unique age-old rituals and recipes that make this nation great. As a media provider devoted to travel, tourism and lifestyle in Indonesia, we present you a special theme for this edition where we feature more stories from several parts of the country.

Although the majority of Hindu people in Indonesia live in Bali, there are still some Hindu communities throughout the country. One of them is the Tengger Tribe who live on the foot of Mount Bromo since the day their ancestors moved there after escaping from chaos during the fall of Majapahit Kingdom some centuries ago. The people are

COVER Photo Courtesy of

Royal Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta

still loyal with their rituals, the Yadnya Kasada, where they pay tribute to their God and ancestors. Find out more about them in ‘CRAFT & CULTURE.’ In this edition, we also take you to the grandest hotel in Yogyakarta where heritage sites meet modern life, the Royal Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta. We reveal our story to you in ‘REST & RELAXATION.’ We also invite you to experience an ancient beauty ritual from South Borneo at Martha Tilaar Day and Spa, Jimbaran, which we share in ‘INVITE & INDULGE’.

To taste authentic recipes, you can go to Kayumanis Resto Jimbaran that elevates traditional food from across the archipelago to five-star dishes. Flip through our ‘DINE & DELIGHTS’ to discover their story. And from outside Bali, our contributor Fadil Azis shares his amazing photos of Jakarta that he took when the city was “asleep” in ‘CAPITAL CORNER’, while Edna Tarigan reveals a meromictic lake in East Borneo in ‘BEYOND BALI.’ All these stories are especially crafted for you, hoping that the next time you visit Indonesia, you can go explore other wonderful travel destinations in the archipelago after your trip to Bali. Happy traveling!

‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

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BALI & BEYOND General Manager GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id Managing Editor RISTY NURRAISA risty@baliandbeyond.co.id Editorial Advisors A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS Graphic Advisor WENIAR PRAMESTI Senior Graphic Designer I PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id Web & Graphic Designer MELIYANA SANTOSO meli@baliandbeyond.co.id Advertising & MarComm. Manager D. ARIEF SENOAJI arief@baliandbeyond.co.id Senior Advertising Sales Executive MEE NOVITA mee@baliandbeyond.co.id F&A Supervisor A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id Accounting Staff KADEK YULI MARISNA yuli@baliandbeyond.co.id GA & Personnel Adm I GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id Distribution NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA nyoman@baliandbeyond.co.id

Contributors WIWIN WIWIRDYA, CARI HILL, EDNA TARIGAN, FADIL AZIZ, GINO ANDRIAS, JOSEPH WANG, REZA FITRIYANTO

Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Phone : 021 - 2765 1717 / 1718 Ext. 7344 Fax : 021 - 2765 1716 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO

OFFICE Gedung Bali White House - Block IV Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23, Kuta 80361- Bali Tel: 0361 9348339, 085 100 868601, 085 100 868602 Fax: +62 361 750075 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id

Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590

A member of

Endorsed by

BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313

CONTRIBUTORS

www. skal.org skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id

CARI HILL

EDNA TARIGAN

FADIL AZIZ

GINO ANDRIAS

JOSEPH WANG

REZA FITRIYANTO

is an award-winning photographer from New Zealand who specializes in travel street portraits and has traveled to 55 countries. Check out her work on Instagram @nowbecomingthen0 or click www. nowbecomingthen.co.nz.

is a Jakarta-based travel writer. She began her professional career as a journalist, living in Bali for a year then moving back to Jakarta to chase another dream. www.edededan.com

is a travel photographer whose main passion is capturing the archipelago’s beauty.

Check out his works in www.alcibbumphotography.com

is a Bali-based writer, photographer, coffee junkie, food addict and lover of the outdoors.

He’ll write and shoot almost anything, from live concerts to water sports and everything in between.

loves to write (fine) restaurant reviews. A keen traveler, he also loves to try anything new.

One of his to-do items for this year is going on a solo road trip from Singapore to Hanoi.

is a Yogyakarta-based travel and photography enthusiast. Log on to www.rezafitriyanto.com to see more of his work.

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

contents 10.17 O C T O B E R 2017 Volume 19 No. 209

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A SACRED PLEDGE

TREASURED TRADITION

CRAFT&CULTURE

INVITE&INDULGE

The Yadnya Kasada ritual at Mount Bromo

Batimung treatment at Martha Tilaar Salon Day and Spa

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BALI’S ONE AND ONLY

PHOTOS & FUN FACTS

LIFESTYLE&LEISURE Bali’s original produce and where to find it

SIGHTS&SOUNDS

Snapshots and quotes picked up throughout August and September

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DINE&DELIGHTS

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TASTES OF THE ARCHIPELAGO

Authentic Indonesian dishes at Kayumanis Resto Jimbaran

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12 PRIMEPROMOTION

SOPHIE’S CHOICE TV persona turns healer, Sophie Navita

14 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island

6 0 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali

6 2 COMMUNITYCALENDAR

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Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events

64 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month

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REST&RELAXATION A ROYAL TALE

Royal Ambarrukmo in Yogyakarta

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FOTOFOLIO

BEYOND THE TOURIST Cari Hill explores the ‘real’ Bali 8

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

66 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations

70 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses

FIRST COLUMN PHOTO COURTESY OF KAYUMANIS RESTO JIMBARAN, SECOND COLUMN PHOTO BY CARI HILL, THIRD COLUMN PHOTO COURTESY OF ALILA MANGGIS

Hot deals and promotions of the month that shouldn’t be missed

PROFILE&PORTRAIT

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

contents 10.17

O C T O B E R 2017 Volume 19 No. 209

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ACTION&ATTRACTION A THE SPICE TRAILS

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Discover Bali with WakaLandCruise

BEYONDBALI MAGICAL LAKE

A visit to Lake Labuan Cermin in East Borneo

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CAPITALCORNER

WHEN THE CITY’S ASLEEP The only time of the year when Jakarta is deserted 10

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

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TOP PHOTO BY FAKEYE, BOTTOM LEFT PHOTO BY EDNA TARIGAN, BOTTOM RIGHT PHOTO BY GINO ANDRIAS

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PRIMEPROMOTION

A DAY IN KUTA For those who have no idea how to spend their last day on the island while waiting for your late-night flight, Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort has an exclusive offer for you. The resort presents a Day Use Package at Rp. 475,000 nett/adult and Rp. 237,500 nett/child where you can enjoy an easy afternoon with shopping at Beachwalk Shopping Center, using the resort’s pool and spa facilities, and relishing a threecourse Italian set menu for lunch or dinner at Bene, while the kids can get complimentary use of Play@Sheraton. You can also take the Premium Day Use Package at Rp. 999,000/adult and Rp. 499,000/ child where you will be treated with a 60-minute massage at Shine Spa, a light lunch at the poolside area, dinner at Feast Restaurant and more. All packages include an airport transfer.

Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort Jalan Pantai Kuta, Kuta, (0361) 846-5555 www.sheratonbalikuta.com

HOLISTIC CENTER

If you and your spouse want to go anti-mainstream to tie the knot, then Alila Manggis is the answer. The resort offers an Underwater Wedding package where couples can exchange wedding vows under the exotic East Bali sea. If you are not familiar with diving, don’t worry because the package is inclusive of a wedding rehearsal in a pool, and introduction and familiarization to diving.

All romantic moments in the water will be perfectly captured by professional underwater photographers from DrewPerspective. You and your loved one can also enjoy a two-night stay at the hotel, and experience a complimentary romantic dinner along with a spa treatment.

Alila Manggis Desa Buitan, Manggis, Kabupaten Karangasem (0363) 410-11 www.alilahotels.com/manggis

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

UNDERWATER VOWS

The new holistic center in Seminyak, Eden Life Centres, reminds us all of the importance of wellness, aesthetic treatments and selfimprovement through good nutrition, happiness and self-care. The clinic brings holistic wellness treatment in Bali to a new level with professional counsellors, healers and therapists so that guests have detailed, personalized information on their conditions. Try their popular signature treatment, the Skin Rejuvenation Program that combines a Live Cell Treatment, Carboxy and LED Therapy Facial to draw out toxins and rejuvenate skin with no pain.

Eden Life Centres Jalan Petitenget No. 12, Seminyak, (0361) 934-2958 www.edenlifecentres.com

PRECIOUS ACHIEVEMENTS Good news is coming from The Damai, a perfect sanctuary in the Kayuputih Village in North Bali.

The resort has just received prestigious awards as the “Best Spa Destination in Indonesia” and the “Best Honeymoon Destination in South East Asia” at the 7th Asian Lifestyle Tourism Award 2017 in Singapore. The Damai’s General Manager Christy Guna Desa was also awarded as one of the “Top 10 Outstanding General Managers in Indonesia.”

These achievements prove that The Damai, that just celebrated its 20th anniversary, is one of the best gems for every couple to enjoy North Bali’s pristine black sandy beaches, sunrise views and other natural wonders.

The Damai Jalan Damai, Kayu Putih, Lovina, Singaraja (0362) 410-09 www.thedamai.com

MEXICAN SUNDAY Selections of delicious delights await you at UNIQUE Rooftop Bar & Restaurant’s Mexican Sunday Brunch! Available at Rp. 380,000++ for food only or at Rp. 460,000++ with free-flow wines and margaritas, this Sunday brunch will please your palate with real Mexican flavors, from Barbacoa (short ribs with Mexican rice), Lengua En Salsa Chipotle (beef tongue with chickpeas) and Vuelve A La Vida (scallops, octopus and shrimps with cocktail sauce). This brunch is a lot more fun with a live music performance and a view of the greenery. Don’t forget to bring your swimwear so you can plunge in the rooftop pool afterwards.

UNIQUE Rooftop Bar & Restaurant RIMBA Jimbaran Bali by AYANA, Karang Mas Estate, Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran (0361) 846-8468 www.rimbajimbaran.com

SWEET BABYMOON Create your unforgettable pregnancy moments in an exotic spot on the island. Nestled on a cliff-side in Jimbaran, Anantara Uluwatu Bali Resort is inviting all expecting parents to enjoy a short getaway while awaiting the arrival of their baby in a perfect babymoon package. Have a little celebration with a welcome cake and step into one of the Ocean Pool View Suites that boasts the Indian Ocean and is beautifully decorated.

Mom-to-be will also be indulged with a 75-minute Elemis Pregnancy Massage while dad-to-be can enjoy a 60-minute Balinese massage. Available at US$594/room/night, this package also includes a 30-minute photoshoot within the resort area, one-time Dining by Design experience, a Sunset Snack and complimentary coconut water.

Anantara Uluwatu Bali Resort Jalan Pemutih, Labuan Sait, Uluwatu (0361) 8957-555 www.bali-uluwatu.anantara.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

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NEW&NEWS

JOIN THE CLUB

DREAM WEDDING AYANA Resort and Spa Bali gives all the more reason for couples to tie the knot at their idyllic wedding chapel as the resort reveals the new face of their Tresna Wedding Chapel. Designed with sparkling glass aisle and lower arched windows with a view of Indian Ocean, the air-conditioned chapel is ready to witness couples’ unforgettable moment of a lifetime with up to 70 guests. After exchanging sacred vows, couples can continue their celebration at the function space beneath the chapel that can welcome up to 110 guests. A number of other dreamy venues are also available at the resort, like the Ocean Wedding Deck at AYANA, Rock Bar Bali, Weddings on the Pier and Kubu Beach Weddings, all boast a breathtaking view of the ocean.

Consult with the resort’s team to find out about their attractive wedding packages.

AYANA Resort and Spa Bali Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, (0361) 702-222 www.ayanaresort.com

Discover an elevated stay at The Ritz-Carlton, Bali with the resort’s exclusive program, The Ritz-Carlton Club® experience. From arrival until departure, The Ritz-Carlton Club® experience offers you a lavish getaway with a lot of benefits, like access to the stylish Club Lounge for breakfast or to simply unwind in the afternoon, complimentary coffee in your suite in the morning and more. A Club Concierge is also on standby throughout your stay to help meet your needs, from reserving a table at your favorite dining place to confirming your travel arrangements. You can also learn about Balinese culture by joining the resort’s canang-making session.

But most importantly, you will get the privilege to do check-in directly in your suite or villa, while check-outs can be processed at the Club Lounge.

The Ritz-Carlton, Bali Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan Lot III, Sawangan, Nusa Dua (0361) 849-8988 www.ritzcarlton.com/bali

GROWING COFFEE

Krakakoa, a chocolate brand from Lampung in Sumatra, has brought Indonesian chocolate products to the map by winning two silver and four bronze medals at the 2017 Academy of Chocolate (AOC) Awards in the UK, a prestigious award that aims to raise the awareness of fine cocoa beans and sustainable production. This achievement proves that Indonesian chocolate has a world-class quality, as Krakakoa is using 100 percent local beans. Would you like to taste this award-winning chocolate? Get a bar or more at Grand Lucky, Hardy’s, Papaya or Bintang supermarket. www.krakakoa.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

WORLD-CLASS CHOCOLATE

Dear coffee connoisseurs, high-quality coffee awaits you at Conrad Bali during your stay at the resort’s suites and villas. Striving to offer locally-inspired experiences, Conrad Bali now presents original blends of Java Arabica and Mocha Java, using beans that are grown and harvested from the farmland in Mount Batukaru in Bali and West Java. This drink is even more special as they are served in a biodegradable coffee capsule, so you can enjoy it in your own private space.

Conrad Bali Jalan Pratama No. 168, Tanjung Benoa (0361) 778-788 www.conradbali.com

SAVE THE PLANET Good news is coming from The Stones – Legian, Bali – A Marriott Autograph Collection Hotel as the hotel strives to make our planet a better place. Aiming to limit greenhouse gas emissions, The Stones Hotel has just installed 99 units of Solar Collector panels to provide 15,000 liters of hot water at 60 degree Celsius in their guestrooms, saving electricity up to 161,500 KWH or 122 tons of carbon footprint in a year.

The movement is done to support the Paris Climate Change Agreement that was signed by Indonesia in April 2016, as well as to give the best service to their guests without forgetting to preserve the environment.

The Stones – Legian, Bali – A Marriott Autograph Collection Hotel Jalan Raya Pantai Kuta, Banjar Legian Kelod, Legian (0361) 300-5888 www.stoneshotelbali.com

SUMMER KIDS Marking a fashionable summer, Mothercare hosted “Summer in Style” fashion show at Beachwalk Shopping Center towards the end of August. The event showcased selections of casual yet smart kids wear for boys and girls, from newborn to 10 years old.

Designed by the Mothercare team, the collections were displayed on stage by 25 kid models, ranging from candy kimono, under the sea, glam tropic, vacation and fresh preppy. The event was a part of the brand’s #Iwearmothercare campaign and marked the beginning of an attractive promotion where T-shirts and shorts are available from Rp. 89,000 to Rp. 199,000 respectively.

Mothercare Beachwalk Shopping Center Level 3, (0361) 8464-950 www.mothercare.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

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CRAFT&CULTURE

A SACRED PLEDGE WITNESSING YADNYA KASADA, A CENTURIES-OLD TRADITION OF THE TENGGER TRIBE IN MOUNT BROMO, EAST JAVA…

O

an ancient ritual that has been

the supreme symbol of the Sang

passed down from generation to

Hyang Widhi’s throne. Located in

generation. The ritual is compulsory

Probolinggo region, Mount Bromo

for the Tengger Tribe as a symbol of

has become a sacred place to

worship and being grateful to Sang

worship their God and ancestors.

Hyang Widhi (God). n the 14th day

According to the Javanese people

HOW IT ALL BEGAN

of the month

who still hold on to their ‘kejawen’

According to local folklore, the

of Kasada (a

principles – kejawen is an ancient

Yadnya Kasada is a tradition to seek

Tengger Tribe’s

Javanese belief –, the mountains are

safety and prosperity from Sang

calendar) during

sacred areas where their God and

Hyang Widhi. The ritual has been

Full Moon, all the Hindu people

the soul of their ancestors reside.

held for centuries, since the first day

who live at the foot of Mount Bromo

The Tengger Tribe shares the same

humans occupied the foot of Mount

in East Java gather to celebrate

ancestors with the Javanese, and

Bromo to be exact.

the Yadnya Kasada ceremony,

they believe that Mount Bromo is

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

Another folklore also mentions

that towards to the fall of the

started a new life there together with

When midnight came, Dewi Rara

Majapahit Kingdom with Prabu

all of the people who followed them.

Anteng and Raden Jaka Seger heard

Brawijaya V sitting on the throne

The couple ruled the Tengger region,

whispers, saying that their wish

in the 16 century, lived a princess

and achieved the title “Purbowasesa

would come true with one condition;

named Dewi Rara Anteng. She

Mangkurat Ing Tengger” which

they would have to give up their last

was the daughter of one of the

means “the kind ruler of Tengger”.

born to the crater of Mount Bromo.

king’s concubines. Wars happened

The Tengger region’s name is

The couple agreed, and they finally

in Trowulan, the capital city of

derived from the names of the

got children – 25 children to be

Majapahit Kingdom, which led to a

conquerors, Dewi Rara Anteng

exact. The last born was named

huge exodus. Most of the Majapahit

(Teng) and Raden Jaka Seger (Ger).

Raden Hadi Kusuma. He was the

people moved to the eastern areas,

Dewi Rara Anteng and Raden

th

one to be sacrificed, yet he grew up

like Blambangan (Banyuwangi)

Jaka Seger lived happily with their

area, Bali and Lombok.

people. The foot of Mount Bromo

Dewi Rara Anteng and Raden

to be a strong man.

However, Dewi Rara Anteng

was a fertile land where harvests

Jaka Seger didn’t have the heart to

together with her husband (Raden

grew abundantly. However, after

give Raden Hadi Kusuma up. They

Jaka Seger) and their guards and

years of living in peace, the couple

broke their promise, and it made the

followers took a different route. They

hadn’t had any children yet. Thus,

God angry. One day, the sky above

ran to the foot of Mount Bromo.

they meditated on the top of Mount

the Tengger region turned dark and

Once they came to safety, Dewi

Bromo (Brahma), right at the edge of

Mount Bromo exploded. Raden Hadi

Rara Anteng and Raden Jaka Seger

the crater.

Kusuma disappeared into the fire

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

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The Tengger people climb the Mount Bromo to performe the Yadnya Kasada.

That was the beginning of

up to the top of Mount Bromo – the

Mount Bromo. When the tragedy

Yadnya Kasada ritual of Tengger

offering consisted of harvests, some

happened, a voice similar to that of

people in Mount Bromo. A ritual that

money and farm animals, all are

Raden Hadi Kusuma’s resonated,

is still performed until today.

given up to the crater of Mount

saying that he had been sacrificed

Bromo. This procession is the peak

EDGE OF THE CRATER

of the Yadnya Kasada ceremony

The voice also reminded the

The Yadnya Kasada ritual started

that takes place on the edge of the

people to always worship Sang

with local priests – who were hand-

crater. A day prior to this ceremony,

Hyang Widhi and that they have to

selected by senior priests through a

the people send up some prayers in

sacrifice farm animals and harvests

traditional meeting – chanting some

temples and collect holy water from

on the 14 day of the month of

prayers. Afterwards, the Tengger

a cage in Mount Widodaren, not far

Kasada.

people brought ongkek (offerings)

from Mount Bromo.

for the safety of all Tengger people.

th

The Tengger people believe that the Yadnya Kasada ritual will keep them safe from catastrophe and give them prosperity with abundant farm animals and harvests. This ritual is not only a symbol of protection and gratefulness to Sang Hyang Widhi, but also a tribute to Raden Hadi Kusuma and his other 24 siblings from Dewi Rara Anteng and Raden Jaka Seger, as the family is the ancestors of the Tengger Tribe.

By Reza Fitriyanto

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

PHOTOS BY REZA FITRIYANTO

and was sucked into the crater of

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

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LIFESTYLE&LEISURE

BALI’S ONE AND ONLY

BALI’S ORIGINAL PRODUCE AND WHERE TO FIND THEM…

By Joseph Wang

B

ali has so much more

coffee stones and will soon excrete

coffee in the world at its best,

than meets the eye. The

them out – this is when its anal

sourced from wild civets, you can

island is not only about

glands impart an elusive musky

go to Dulang at The St. Regis Bali

traditions, sunsets, and

smoothness to the “roasted” coffee.

Resort. After indulging in some

Today, many varieties of civet

Indonesian dishes through the

parties but is also home

to some of the rarest produce in

coffee are cultivated on civet coffee

restaurant’s signature rijsttafel dinner

Indonesia, if not the world. For all

farms. This practice, however, is

or rice table, a cup of civet coffee

the true foodies out there, get ready

highly criticized as the civets are

is surely a wonderful closure to your

as we present a special bucket list

caged and only fed with coffee

dining experience.

for you to check out when you are

beans, which is not their proper diet.

on the island.

But there are some coffee roasters

Dulang

who only use 100 percent wild civet

The St. Regis Bali Resort

CRÈME DE LA CRÈME

coffee, sourced directly from some

ITDC Lot S6, Nusa Dua

Considered the champagne of

coffee farmers in Bali. And it is not

(0361) 847-8111

coffee, kopi luwak or the civet coffee

difficult to differentiate the kopi

www.stregisbali.com

is one of the most coveted drinks in

luwak from wild and caged civets

the world with a price of more than

– their feces show what the animals

US$ 250/100 grams. The coffee

have been eating in addition to

is sourced from a civet, a small

coffee cherries. The limited amount

mammal that wanders around a

of farmers who can submit wild

coffee plantation and selects only

coffee civets each month also helps

the finest coffee cherries to eat for

maintain authenticity.

snacks. However, it can’t digest the

Experience kopi luwak with beans sourced from wild civets at Dulang at The St. Regis Resort Bali.

To enjoy the most expensive

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

LOCAL SPIRITS

cause methanol poisoning. It can

20 types of ingredients. From the

The island’s signature liquor, arak

be tricky to ďŹ nd a decent place that

most common ingredients such as

Bali, is distilled from rice or palm

serves arak without putting your life

cinnamon and citrus to the more

sap with alcohol content ranging

on the line, so we did the research

exotic spices like asam kranji or

from 20 to 50 percent. It is often

for you and found Akademi Bar.

Borneo tamarind, a fruit that only

used in offerings to ward off evil spirits and is one of the less

As a dedicated center of libations,

grows once every 10 years. Ask for

Akademi Bar is not only one of the

the arak tasting or cocktail sampling

regulated alcoholic beverages – that

few places that serves proper arak

made with one of the arak infusions

is why you need to be careful when

Bali but at the same time educates

at Akademi Bar, and you will have a

you want to sample this drink.

their guests about this particularly

better understanding of this spirit.

The cheapest arak drink costs

notorious spirit, spreading awareness

around US$2, however it is

that it can be a safe drink and even

Akademi Bar

generally not recommended to

made into a world-class cocktail.

Katamama Hotel

consume that or any other cocktails

Made in Bali with the highest

Jalan Petitenget No. 51B, Seminyak

at a bar serving drinks advertised

standard, the arak Bali at Akademi

(0361) 302-9940

below US$5, as often they can

Bar is also infused with more than

www.akademi-bar.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

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BLACK IS THE NEW PIG

more flavorful in addition to the fact

who brought this meat to the table

With the advancement in today’s

that they are almost always on the

after his wife found it at Samadi

food and beverage industry, heritage

move. That’s why, their meat costs

Market in Canggu. While the menu

food breeds are often outpaced and

double compared to the Landrace

at The Restaurant is constantly

easily forgotten, mostly due to cost

pigs which only need six to eight

changing, bangkal hitam remains

and cultivating time among other

months to grow.

one of the favorite among its guests.

reasons. The same happens here in Bali with the island’s Heritage Pig. Decades ago, before the flood of

Black pig is in very limited supply

Don’t forget to make a reservation if

at the moment. The Restaurant at The

you want to dine here and taste its

Legian Bali – which focuses heavily

delicious bangkal hitam creation.

commercially-bred, turbo-charged

on local organic produce – is the

Landrace pigs, there were bangkal

one and only restaurant on the

The Restaurant at The Legian Bali

hitam (black pigs) in almost all

island that serves bangkal hitam in

Jalan Kayu Aya, Seminyak

households in Bali. They were fed

some of their amazing dishes. It was

(0361) 730-622

with windfall mangoes and kitchen

The Restaurant’s Chef Luke MacLeod

www.lhm-hotels.com/legian-bali

waste, and made ready for the next ceremonial feast. Bangkal hitam is basically a free-range pig which is different from its “cousin” – the regular pig species that we usually consume, in both in taste and texture.

With thick black skin, bangkal hitam – which is smaller in size than its “cousin” – takes a year and a half

The Restaurant at The Legian Bali is the only place on the island that serves the lush bangkal hitam.

22

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

FOOD PHOTO AT THE LEGIAN BY JOSEPH WANG, ALL OTHERS COURTESY

to grow, and this makes their meat

Indulge in rice from Jatiluwih at Hujan Locale.

PRIZED RICE

that is almost lost in this modern

a restaurant helmed by Chef Will

Rice has been the staple food of

world. Balinese rice takes 210 days

Meyrick of Sarong Group that

Indonesia for generations. However,

to grow, which is the same length

presents Indonesian dishes and

not many people know that most of

as a year in a Balinese calendars.

focuses on the country’s best local

the rice used today is the new hybrid

This means it can only be harvested

produce, uses Balinese rice as one

that is genetically engineered, which

two times in a year at maximum,

of its staple starches. You can pair

makes it unqualified as organic

while the new rice species can be

the Balinese rice with one – or more

produce. But the rice from Jatiluwih,

harvested three times per year. The

– of their authentic local dishes for a

a region in western Bali that is

new rice hybrid can also produce

real taste of Indonesia.

famous as one of the UNESCO

more tons of rice per hectare than

World Heritages, is an exception.

the Balinese rice.

The old traditional organic

Hujan Locale

Yet, Balinese rice contains more

Jalan Sri Wedari No. 5, Ubud

Balinese rice has been cultivated for

nutrients than the new rice. So, it

0813-3972-0306

years, and has become a heritage

is only natural that Hujan Locale,

www.hujanlocale.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

23

DINE&DELIGHTS

veranda for lunch, I was already drooling when a waitress showed me the list of their dishes. And with my orders in, my culinary journey across the archipelago began…

LOCAL CHOICE My dining experience began with Ayam Dabu-Dabu, which is served with dabu-dabu chili that originates from Manado in North Sulawesi.

Ayam Dabu-Dabu.

TASTES OF THE

ARCHIPELAGO RELISH AUTHENTIC INDONESIAN FOOD, RANGING FROM SUMATRA IN THE WEST TO EAST NUSA TENGGARA IN THE EAST, ONLY AT KAYUMANIS RESTO JIMBARAN...

A

midst the serenity in

and a veranda overlooking the

The dish consists of shredded

Kayumanis Jimbaran

tropical garden.

chicken served with spices that blend

Private Estate & Spa, a

The restaurant just opened a year

perfectly, creating flavors that burst

unique Javanese joglo

ago, yet it has become a favorite

like fireworks in my mouth. It was

house stands within

for Indonesian cuisine. Spanning

such a flavorsome opening dish that

the resort’s manicured garden.

over 17,000 islands, Indonesia

boosted my appetite and got my

Constructed of sustainable Javanese

has thousands of ethnic tribes,

palate ready for more Indonesian

teak wood, the joglo house serves

each with its own culture, traditions

food.

as the resort’s all-day dining place

and, of course, food. Kayumanis

named Kayumanis Resto Jimbaran.

Resto strives to present some of the

the star of the menu – the Bebek

Boasting an elegant design with

authentic dishes from many parts of

Panggang Mekudus (traditional

hand-painted floor tiles and classic-

the country, from the western part

Balinese smoked duck) which is

style chairs and tables, the restaurant

like Sumatra to the eastern area like

similar to that of Balinese popular

consists of an indoor area that is

East Nusa Tenggara.

duck betutu. The difference is the

facilitated with an open-plan bar

Sitting in their peaceful alfresco

24

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

For the main course, I opted for

cooking technique. The Bebek

Panggang Mekudus uses selected qualified duck meat which is first cleaned and massaged with spices for about 15 minutes, before being left to rest for a whole night. The next morning, the duck meat is marinated with traditional spices, and then steamed for about two hours. Then, it is cooked in the oven and is finally presented to the table on burning charcoals. The slow-cook process results in lush duck meat that is rich in authentic Balinese flavor. This meal is even more fulfilling with white rice, chicken wrap skewers, a chicken soup and Balinese matah chili.

Another highlight of the menu is the Nasi Bakar (the grilled fragrant rice). The origin of Nasi Bakar comes from Java, yet Kayumanis Resto Jimbaran has its own take with the use of corn, purple yam and traditional spices to add savory to the rice. The rice is also wrapped in banana leaves and is grilled over a charcoal fire, adding a rich and smoky taste to the dish. This meal is also perfect for lunch as it comes

The signature Bebek Panggang Mekudus.

with either beef rendang, chicken curry or fish stew.

My lunch experience ended sweetly with a portion of Klepon Nilasari and Cendol Ngangenin for dessert. Klepon Nilasari is very much inspired by Indonesian klepon, a sweet delight made of rice flour filled with brown sugar, and served with shredded coconut. Kayumanis Resto gives a twist to the dish by using purple yam mixed with rice flour for vibrant colors on the outside, topped Nasi Bakar.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

25

with shredded coconut, jackfruits and strawberries for a sweet sensation.

flavor of the meat, which comes from the juice, won’t dissolve.” As a result, Kayumanis Resto presents dishes that are true to their Indonesian roots, in Klepon Nilasari.

The refreshing Goyang Kawista.

terms of recipe and flavor.

“As an Indonesian chef, it is my duty to promote Indonesian cuisine, not only to our guests, but

The Cendol Ngangenin is also

also to the country’s young chefs,”

just as interesting where a bowl of

he continued, adding his concern

sweet creamy coconut milk – infused

that he rarely finds Indonesian

with brown sugar, slices of jackfruit

cuisine in the curriculum during his

and cendol (made of rice flour) – is

time as a visiting chef in several

served fresh in a coconut shell. The

culinary colleges in Bali. “Indonesian

dish is even more unique with a

dishes may have thousands-year-

piece of kue lumpur (a traditional

old recipes, but unless we want to

mud cake) and a slice of kolak

present real authentic Indonesian

pisang (banana cooked with coconut milk and brown sugar). Indeed,

option is Bir Pletok from Jakarta, a

indulging in the Cendol Ngangenin

non-alcoholic drink that still gives a

felt like scooping layer after layer of

warm sensation with ginger infusion.

Chef Oka

Aside from its delightful local

ELEVATING TRADITION

dishes, Kayumanis Resto also serves

The wonderful Indonesian dishes at

selections of traditional drinks.

Kayumanis Resto are born from the

The Goyang Kawista drink is truly

hands of Chef Oka and his team.

refreshing with kawista fruit mixed

Chef Oka even went to Surabaya in

with lemonade, mint and soda, while

East Java, Yogyakarta and Jakarta to

Sinom from East Java is an amazing

search for some age-old recipes from

herbal drink for detoxification as it

local food joints. His determination

consists of tamarind leaves, turmeric

is to turn simple street food into five-

and palm sugar. Another perfect

star dishes.

“Our challenge here is to recreate

Cendol Ngangenin.

cuisine, we can modify our local

Indonesian street food without

food with our own creativity.”

any use of artificial flavor and

And indeed, selections of elevated

preservatives, and present them

Indonesian cuisine is what he

in a high-quality presentation,”

presents at Kayumanis Resto.

stated Chef Oka when he came to

By Risty Nurraisa

my table. With that in mind, Chef Oka is leading the kitchen team to

Kayumanis Resto Jimbaran

have a deep understanding of each

Kayumanis Jimbaran Private Estate

ingredient in order to cook a dish

& Spa

to perfection. “For instance, to cook

Jalan Yoga Perkanthi, Jimbaran

beef rendang, we won’t use too much

(0361) 705-777

water to process the meat, so that the

www.kayumanis.com

26

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

PHOTOS COURTESY OF KAYUMANIS RESTO JIMBARAN

Indonesian traditional dessert.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

27

PROFILE&PORTRAIT

And you are into nutrition as well.

How do you actually want to be recognized?

SN: I’d like to think of myself as a speaker and a listener. Every time I say something, my words can actually either help people or bring them down. Recently, I learned that I should give more encouraging words and be really careful with my words.

I have been through an episode in my life you could call ‘depressed’. I am not proud of it but I don’t want to be ashamed of it because I went through it. And now I feel like I need to pull people out who are still stuck in that ‘hole’ and help them.

Somehow, many people come directly to me to share what they have been through. I learn that sometimes people need me to only listen, while other times all they need is a smile or an opinion, though I

INDONESIAN TV PERSONA TURNS PLANT-BASED CHEF AND HEALER, SOPHIE NAVITA SHARES HER SECRETS TO HAPPINESS…

S

cents because I think they have to be listening to their own voice.

When I speak or write, I really lean on God, The Source of All Words, and I believe that I can help bring a difference to a person’s life.

ophie Navita has been

as a wife to Pongki (an Indonesian

BB: What made you start the

a TV presenter since

musician) and a mother of two

“Indonesia Makan Sayur”

she was a little. But ever

children, a teacher at many cooking

movement?

since she moved from

classes as well as a presenter and

SN: I want all mothers to be able

Jakarta to Bali with her

singer when she travels out of Bali.

to serve healthy food at home.

family, she has turned her career

She has published books – her

The definition of healthy food is

path from entertainment industry

second one is coming out at the

food with high nutrition, and it can

to the holistic and culinary world

end of this year, titled “Hati yang

be found mostly in vegetables,

that makes her a healer and one of

Gembira adalah Obat” (A Happy

organic vegetables especially. I

Indonesia’s first plant-based chefs,

Heart is a Medicine). To Bali &

am happy enough to encourage

as well as a nutrition enthusiast – she

Beyond (BB), Sophie Navita (SN)

mothers to cook and serve healthy

is the founder of “Indonesia Makan

shares her secrets…

vegetable dishes for their whole

Sayur”, a national movement that

family members. But seeing some

encourages people to eat more

BB: So, you are a singer and a plant-

pictures of tumis kangkung (sautéed

vegetables. She also juggles her time

based chef, among other things.

kangkung), sayur bening (spinach

28

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

PHOTOS BY JAKA DWI DHARMA (WWW.JAKADHARMA.WEBS.COM)

SOPHIE’S CHOICE

am careful about giving my two--

Sophie’s gluten-free doughnuts are available on the weekends at Pison Coffee in Seminyak.

other people and their energy ot

BB: What do you do to make

towards us. to

yourself happy then?

The journey of my own self-love

SN: I have been working since I

is a really long one, especially

was 9 years old, and now I am in

because I have issues with my father. be

my early 40s. I used to think that I

He is a father figure, he is always H

deserved everything in this life, that I

there for me but we just didn’t get th

could do anything I wanted with the

along until two years ago when my al

money I got from work. That was my

soup) or green smoothies that they

world was falling apart. Everything

happiness. But you cannot pay for

made and posted to our Instagram

went wrong and I started to grow

happiness, can you? Now for me,

account @idmakansayur, it makes

thinner because of depression. That

when my kids are in bed early, and

me feel even more delighted. That

moment, I decided to stop blaming

I have my “me” time in my room to

kind of response always surprise me!

others. It was a very big step for

pray until I cry my eyes out or check

me because I have been a person

out Pinterest, I feel better. That is my

BB: What do you want to share in

who had always been putting

true happiness. Simple!

your classes?

blame on other people. It was like

By Wiwin Wirwidya

SN: I want people to have

a shortcoming for me. For instance,

better knowledge about organic

when I could not tolerate things

vegetables. Choosing organic

that happened at work, I thought

vegetables also means we support

about getting out of the place to find

our local farmers. That is why,

something else that works for me.

www.sophienavita.com

“Indonesia Makan Sayur” is also a

After that recognition, my life started

moral and important movement that

to fall into place, slowly but surely.

strives to bring a lot of benefits to

And I realized that acceptance is the

everyone involved in it, from when

answer, or as the Javanese call it,

the vegetables are planted, then

“Nrimo.”

grow and are harvested from farm fields, and then cooked, served and

BB: Why did you and your family

consumed.

move to Bali from Jakarta?

SN: It was a holistic reason,

BB: Your book is about self-

actually. My husband and I wanted

discovery. How do you encourage

to rebuild our family values. I do not

people to love themselves?

blame Jakarta for it. But in Jakarta,

SN: I think that is the battle for every

we could not function as a family as

single human being on this earth.

well as we are here in Bali. But there

We were born into the fallen world,

are challenges, of course. When

we were born from a fallen legacy

Pongki is out for a tour, I have to

— I learn a theory of creation where

stay at home with the kids and that

Adam and Eve fell and we are their

is not easy. I used to have my own

offspring. And there is no way, no

income, and staying at home is like

matter how gentle and loving your

training for me on how to be a real

parents are, even for a newborn

housewife. Managing the family

baby to love himself or herself. We

finances is not easy, yet somehow

still have a 10 percent chance of

it humbles me because I know my

developing some sort of self-loathing

ot husband works so hard and I cannot

because we simply can’t control

spend the money irresponsibly.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

29

INVITE&INDULGE

TREASURED TRADITION

IMMERSE YOUR BODY AND SOUL INTO A SENSATIONAL TRADITIONAL SPA TREATMENT AT THE MARTHA TILAAR SALON DAY AND SPA, JIMBARAN, THE PERFECT SANCTUARY TO EXPERIENCE TRUE INDONESIAN BEAUTY RITUAL FROM HEAD TO TOE…

U

BORNEO BLISS Batimung is originally inspired by a treatment ritual of Banjarmasin people in South Borneo. At Martha Tilaar, this treatment is applied using all natural compositions such as citrus leaves, jasmine, pandanus leaves, and coconut oil as well as some traditional spices like temu giring (finger root), kenanga, and akarwangi – this concoction will detoxify the body through a body steam and massage.

Before the therapy started, Ayu

pon entering the

Ayu, who has been working for

Martha Tilaar Salon

Martha Tilaar for years. She

let me choose one of the three

Day and Spa, I could

explained about the most popular

Babanyon oils, a traditional oil from

feel that my tension

treatment at the spa, the Batimung

Borneo made of traditional spices

was relieved already.

treatment, an ancient detoxifying

that Martha Tilaar uses for the

It was a hot sunny day in Bali, yet

ritual from Borneo. Listening to her

Batimung treatment. The three oils

the spa easily soothed me with a

story, it was easy to see why this

were Babanyon for pengantin oil

glass of cold sweet ginger tea that

treatment is the most favorite, and I

(for a wedding couple), Babanyon

instantly calmed my nerves down. I

couldn’t wait to have a try.

for energizing oil, and Babanyon for relaxing oil – I opted for the last one

was then introduced to the therapist,

as the scent of the spices were truly calming.

My spa journey began with a 10-minute foot ritual or in a Banjarmasin’s term, “Barandam

Traditional herbs used for the Batimung treatment.

30

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

Batis”. My feet were soaked in a bowl of warm water, infused with Nagasari spices that consisted of lemongrass, citrus leaves, and some drops of Babanyon oil. Ayu also gave me a soft foot massage to cleanse my foot skin and get me prepared for a total relaxation.

The cengkaruk or body scrub session.

The 110-minute beauty treatment then continued with a body scrub or cengkaruk using black rice that benefits by cleaning dead skin cells away and making the skin brighter.

After the body scrub, I took a bath with warm water and foam that is exclusively produced by Martha Tilaar. Then I was ready for the massage session.

The 50-minute body massage or Ba’urut uses Babanyon oil mixed with lala’an or coconut oil for relaxing. During the massage, not

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

31

Getting ready for the Batimung treatment.

The bakasai or body mask treatment.

only did Ayu give top-notch pressure

Huripan spice. The detoxifying

in a traditional way and I felt so

on my nerve spots that needed

treatment ended with a relaxing bath

rejuvenated once the beauty journey

relaxing, but she also found the best

for about 20 minutes with a soothing

was done.

spots on my body to absorb the oil

sound of holistic music filling the

By Wiwin Wirwidya

and the natural ingredients. At this

room.

phase, I easily fell into a deep sleep

As I soaked my body in the warm

Martha Tilaar Salon Day and Spa

which indicated that the Babanyon

water, I breathed in the wonderful

Jalan Uluwatu I No. 99Z,

oil and the massage really worked

aroma of Babanyon oil deeply and

Kuta Selatan, Bali

well together.

tried not to think about anything. This

(0361) 472-5966

is truly a comforting spa experience

www.marthatilaarspa.com

The beauty journey went on with a body mask using Bakasai, a natural composition that consists of temu being completely masked, my body was steamed for 10 minutes so that my skin can absorb all the natural goodness and become moisturized.

The water for the steam is also infused with some drops of Babanyon oil and Putri Huripan, another traditional concoction made of spices like banana leaves, young coconut, pandanus, brown rice and more.

While I was sitting in the body steam machine, Ayu prepared me another hot tub with some drops of Babanyon oil and the rest of Putri

The Jamu Bar at Martha Tilaar Salon and Day Spa.

32

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

PHOTOS COURTESY OF MARTHA TILAAR SALON DAY AND SPA

giring and kaffir lime juice. After

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

33

SIGHTS&SOUNDS

CTS QUOTES AND FUN FA S, TO O PH F O RD A OUR CORK BO SEPTEMBER...

D N A ST U G U A IN G HILE EXPLORIN THAT WE PICKED UP W

on the “Artisans of Bali” at Beautiful local arts are displayed showcased woven fabrics ition Seminyak Village. The exhib brand that works with d -base Ubud (an Life of ds

by Threa n), bamboo-structured natio the ss acro ers over 12,000 weav ns made of palm ratio furniture by IBUKU, Balinese deco ns like stamps desig e uniqu and e, Scen a e Mak leaves by 12. ber Octo until lasts

by Elami. The exhibition

Unique and fun-looking statues and paintings by Heart Lab Bali are on display at Artotel Sanur. Don’t miss it, as the exhibition will run until November 15!

iera re fun with the Riv ll sure be a lot mo Your Sundays wi sort. Available Re h ac Be a Du Bali Nusa ulge you Brunch at Sofitel ay Brunch will ind 3 p.m., this Sund cuisine. n ea an err from 11 a.m. to dit h, Italian and Me nc Fre of the ay ve arr ha u with an wear as yo 34 BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017 ng your best swim Don’t forget to bri ol. po ss the swimming ce ac to e eg vil pri

th and September 13 , preciation day on ap ne wi y. a wa s wa fun It the most li celebrated it in like a g irin Hatten Wines Ba Pa d an g d “Wine Tastin ial In an event theme ests to learn spec brand invited gu the l”, na sio best way, like fes the Pro in ne wi g vin iring and ha ular type techniques of pa ne, smell a partic te the color of wi dishes the to it g how to differentia e pairin se the taste befor of wine, and sen s. with certain spice

A new dining destination is revealed at Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach Hotel! The Makase restaurant and café turns Balinese street food and drinks into five-star creations.

BY RISTY NURRAISA AND WIWIN WIRWIDYA PHOTOS OF HATTEN WINES AND INDIGO HOTEL BY JAKA DHARMA, ALL OTHERS COURTEYS PHOTOS

We thank you fo r all the photos se nt to our Instagram accoun t. These are the tw o of our favorites of th e month. Keep ta gging us (@baliandbeyond magazine) on Insta gram and your photos might be in our ne xt issue!

The beauty of Banyumala Tw in Waterfalls there. Let’s go by @howtoge n explore it! lde go its d t_ an h ac Be ta Ku t sho ctly @aabdw_13 perfe BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017 35 . sand during sunset

REST&RELAXATION

“Ambarrukmo” is derived from two words; “Ambar” means fragrance and “Rukmo” means regal luxury.

A ROYAL TALE

EXPERIENCE YOGYAKARTA AT ITS BEST BY STAYING AT THE CITY’S URBAN ICON, ROYAL AMBARRUKMO YOGYAKARTA, AN INTEGRATED COMPLEX WHERE AGE-OLD RITUALS AND HERITAGE SITES MEET MODERN LIFE…

W

Yet, the hotel still sends a homey vibe as the staff welcomed me with a big smile and presented a cup of hot secang, a Javanese traditional beverage, while helping me with my check in.

Royal Ambarrukmo provides 247 rooms and suites in five different types – Deluxe Room, Premiere Room, Junior Suite, Executive Suite

hen I

hotel where I was going to stay for

and Ambarrukmo Suite. Each room

arrived at

four days, already presented its

has a stylish design with touches

Adisucipto

top-notch hospitality.

of local inspirations, and a private

International Airport

It took only 10 minutes from the

balcony overlooking the city’s

airport to the hotel by car. Standing

skyline, the resort’s Royal garden

after a one-and-a-half hour flight

in the heart of the city, the award-

or the marvelous Mount Merapi.

from Bali, a man holding a tablet

winning Royal Ambarrukmo - the

In a second, I fell in love with my

with my name written on the display

hotel has received world-class

Premiere Room which is set with

was already waiting at the exit.

awards like the International Asia

lavish bedding and a balcony facing

Greeting me warmly and assisting

Pacific Hotel Awards 2017/2018,

the hotel’s swimming pool and

me with my baggage, he then

among others - looks so magnificent

Mount Merapi. However, I couldn’t

took me to a car that said, “Royal

from the outside with its all-white

wait to explore the rest of the hotel

Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta”. Within

exterior and manicured front yard.

through the Heritage Tour & Koi Fish

minutes after I set foot in the city,

The interior is just as lavish with

Feeding program, conducted by

Royal Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta, the

marbled floor and warm hues.

Khairul Anwar, the hotel’s Marketing

36

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

of the hotel remains the same since 1964. We can only redesign the interior which was just done in 2011,” Khairul continued. “This hotel is like a museum with several artworks displayed from the ‘60s, like this one,” Khairul pointed to a relief made of andesite rocks next to the main entrance. Titled “Untung Rugi di Lereng Merapi” (the Good and Bad Times at Merapi Volcano),

The Royal garden with a bale, a koi fish pond and a jogging track.

the relief exposes the lives of the

& Communications Manager. Thus, a tale from the ‘60s revealed…

EVERLASTING ARTWORK “The history of Royal Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta goes back to 1964 when the hotel was first established under the name ‘Ambarrukmo Palace Hotel’,” stated Khairul as we began our tour at the lobby. The building

The Premiere Room with a view of Mount Merapi.

itself is also historical as it used to serve as a Japanese governmental office during their colonization.

the hotel now becomes an urban

When Japan was defeated, President

icon of Yogyakarta where traditions

Soekarno turned the building into

blend perfectly with modernity.

one of the first exclusive hotels in Indonesia. After more than 50 years,

people at Mount Merapi.

The hotel also showcases two mosaics made of ceramic tiles

“Royal Ambarrukmo is a heritage building. That’s why, the exterior

from the ‘60s created by artist J. Soedhiono and team. The first one is titled “Kehidupan Masyarakat Yogyakarta” (the Lives of Yogyakarta

“Kehidupan Masyarakat Yogyakarta”, one of the artworks from the ‘60s.

Society). Located on the eighth floor next to the Karaton ballroom, this artwork is displayed on 10 meter-high walls and looks sharp with vibrant colors. The other one, titled “Kehidupan Masyarakat Jawa Tengah” (the Lives of Central Java Society), is displayed on the first floor, right next to Royal Restaurant, with warmer hues.

The hotel’s lush Royal garden also has its own story. The swimming

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

37

now transformed into Nurkadhatyan The Ritual Spa. Managed by the Sultan’s five daughters and a spa master, the spa offers selections of age-old Keraton’s beauty rituals with the use of homemade products. One of the rooms even has a bathtub made of Merapi’s andesite rock to absorb negative energies and help balance one’s mind, body and soul, Surrounded by a pond, the Bale Kambang now serves as a yoga venue and a private dinner with mandatory Javanese customs and rules.

making this spa one of the best in Yogyakarta.

Get pampered at Nurkadhatyan The Ritual Spa

pool for adults used to function as a mini Olympic pool for athletes, but now it has been redesigned into a beautiful resort-style pool with daybeds, surrounded by bronze sculptures also from the ‘60s. Next to the main pool is the kid’s pool and the fitness center.

Walking further into the garden is a playground where a Kid’s Club is underway and a jogging track.

The Royal garden is home to many trees and plants, from longan The complex consists of Pendopo

The Bale Kambang (the Floating

the hotel’s own recycled water.

Agung (the Royal living room) to

Hut) stands behind the Gadri.

Three gazebos stand in the garden,

host many events and celebrations,

This octagon-shaped alfresco hall

one of them is surrounded by a

including Patehan (the hotel’s daily

is surrounded by a pond where

Koi fish pond, making it a perfect

royal high tea ceremony); Ndalem

the princesses used to swim. And

sanctuary to relax while listening to

Agung where the Sultan Hamengku

in this hall, the Sultan used to do

the sounds of nature.

Buwono VII lived until his last breath

meditation. Now, it functions as a

(now it serves as a museum); and

yoga place for hotel guests every

ROYAL LEGACY

Gadri which is and has always been

Saturday morning.

Standing on a site owned by the

used as the Royal Dining Room – I

Keraton Yogyakarta (the city’s

can only imagine how special an

GET CULTURED

Sultanate), the Royal Ambarrukmo

intimate dinner in Gadri must be as

Royal Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta also

has a close relationship with the

guests get to indulge in delicious

embraces Javanese culture in its

city’s royal family. Within the hotel

meals in the Sultan’s dining area!

guest activities, one of them being

area stands Kedaton Ambarrukmo

Still in the Kedaton complex

the Jemparingan session, an ancient

(a mini palace complex) from the

is Gandhok Tengen (where the

Javanese archery. Every Friday

18th century that is still preserved

princesses and female Royal servants

afternoon, a Jemparingan community

until today.

and guests used to live) which is

comes to compete at the Pendopo

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PHOTO OF BORBOBUDUR TEMPLE BY RISTY NURRAISA. ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF ROYAL AMBARRUKMO YOGYAKARTA

trees to orchids, all are grown with

Agung, and guests can join them before the course ends.

Wearing a Javanese kebaya and batik sarong, I signed up for this class which was quite challenging as we had to do it by sitting down with our legs crossed! In between the Jemparingan session, when the archers took a break, the Patehan – a royal high tea ritual – was served

Selections of breakfast buffet at the Royal Restaurant.

in the Pendopo Agung, presenting Javanese traditional light bites, coffee and tea. Royal Ambarrukmo

Situated in a strategic location,

the hotel offers include a visit to

Yogyakarta has other classes

Royal Ambarrukmo is also close to

Mendut Temple, Keraton Yogyakarta

throughout the week, such as flutes

Yogyakarta’s tourist destinations, from

and Borobudur Temple, as well as

on Mondays, Javanese dance on

historical sites like Prambanan Temple

sunrise in Borobudur! Simply book

Tuesdays and batik classes on the

to shopping and culinary scene like

a hotel car (with additional charge)

third Wednesday of the month.

Malioboro. Other cultural tours that

or take public transportation like the TransJogja bus to tour the town.

Experiencing street food in Yogyakarta is a must, but the hotel also serves authentic dishes in its all-day Royal Restaurant that are worth trying. During breakfast, Royal Restaurant presents Gudeg and jamu (traditional food and drink respectively) made by surrounding local sellers, while other flavorsome local food like Soto Tangkar is perfect for lunch or dinner, paired

Dawn at the Borobudur Temple.

with a glass of cold secang. Other dining places are Punika Deli that offers sandwiches, gelato and other light bites until midnight, and Lobby Lounge & Bar that presents live music performances. And for a quick taste of the city’s vibe, the Plaza Ambarrukmo, one of the grandest malls in town, is right next door.

By Risty Nurraisa Royal Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta Jalan Laksda Adisucipto No. 81,

Learn about Jemparingan, an ancient Javanese archery, from the professionals.

Yogyakarta, (0274) 488-488 www.royalambarrukmo.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

39

FOTOFOLIO

BEYOND THE TOURISTS Bali attracts an average of five million tourists per year, which is huge, considering it is just one of a whopping 18,000 islands that make up Indonesia.

People flock here for the sun, surf, sand, yoga, and trendy cafés but I was interested in seeing the ‘real’ Bali, in particular, the real people of Bali, away from the crowds of tourists. So, I hired a local driver for the day and asked him to take me anywhere he liked away from the crowds, to show me his views of Bali.

We wandered into tiny villages, sampled produce at local markets, navigated through rice paddies, and engaged with dozens of beautiful local people with the warmest smiles and biggest hearts. We were invited into someone’s house for a wedding ceremony, met some kids who squealed with delight upon seeing us, saw men and women working hard at their crafts, and immersed ourselves in the colors and feels of this charismatic island. The local people are at the heart, so do yourself a favor and get to know the heart of Bali.

By Cari Hill www.nowbecomingthen.co.nz Instagram: @nowbecomingthen0

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ACTION&ATTRACTION

THE SPICE TRAILS WE TOOK AN UPHILL DRIVE TO SEE THE HISTORICAL SPICE TRAILS THAT MADE BALI AND THE REST OF THE ARCHIPELAGO SO ATTRACTIVE TO THE EUROPEANS IN THE 16TH CENTURY WITH WAKALANDCRUISE…

I

ndonesia’s archipelago has

THE CHOSEN ONE

been popular worldwide due to

It was 8 a.m. when I found myself

its spices since the 16th century.

sitting in a rigid but comfortable

Ironically, this popularity also

four-by-four Land Rover Defender,

brought colonization to the

a British brand of all-terrain vehicle

country until Indonesia finally took

that is still used by a wide range of

its freedom in 1945. Now, the

the four-by-four market to this day,

spice trails in the archipelago have

from British armed forces, civilians

become historical, including the one

to a Serengeti safari operator for

in Bali. And for those who are up for

observation needs. This square-

some history and adventure at the

shaped vehicle is made of strong

same time, WakaLandCruise offers

aluminum construction with a diesel

a full-day trip to treasure a lifetime.

engine, which means it resembles a

Come and join me on my recent

lightweight class of fighter; agile and

ride to the balmy village of Ubud,

light but still can deliver the sting

an area that is famous for its art and

whenever needed. This is the chosen

cuisine, to reveal a sweet surprise...

ride for many outdoor enthusiasts,

A walk through the Tjampuhan ridge.

and it is surely more than able to survive the zombie apocalypse.

The four-by-four Land Rover Defender.

The four of us, including the super informative yet skillful driver Teddy, were ready in our seats.

Teddy has been working with the WakaLandCruise for seven years, so he knew the procedure really well – he continuously fed us information about each destination and the importance of sitting up straight with three points seatbelts. Mind you, this vehicle is built for an adventure, and that means safety is the rule of thumb.

CRUISE THE LAND Trust me, nothing beats the drive

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

The hidden Kanto LampoWaterfalls.

uphill on a Saturday morning in a

cocoa, ginseng to earthy cloves all

four-by-four Land Rover Defender.

grow healthily in dark brown soil,

brought us to the finish line; a

Taking the side roads, Teddy

which proves that the land is rich

small shack next to a narrow deer

knew the route like the back of his

with ground nutrients, a blessings by

trail and a rice field. There was a

hand. The first stop was Teba Sari

the dearly Dewi Sri, goddess of soil

communal table made of rustic wood

agrotourism at Lodtunduh Gianyar,

and fertility in Bali. The highlight of

where the crew served us traditional

a few kilometers away before Ubud

this destination is surely the highly

morning bites consisting of deep

– this was only the beginning of our

regarded Kopi Luwak or Palm Civet

fried bananas, sweet shredded

journey, but already I could feel the

coffee. “The luwak coffee has to be

coconut rolled in thick rice paper,

excitement. Teba Sari, a Balinese

Arabica beans and it takes months

and 15 cups of different infused teas

name that literally means “the sweet

of long process from picking up the

from the yard.

harvests from the garden”, truly lives

beans to cleaning them until they are

up to the name. A pebble stone yard

ready to consume. The coffee has

to the deeper heart of Ubud.

welcomed us as our guide Komang

a unique end result with low level

WakaLandCruise took us to the

walked us through this 50 acres

of acid and caffeine, which is safe

Tjampuhan ridge – we explored

of lush, well-manicured traditional

for people who have gastric acid

this area from the northern end.

garden.

history,” Komang explained with her

This free and easy natural track

bright smile.

made of paved stones is popular

A range of spice trees from ginger,

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

49

The short walk in Teba Sari

Then, our journey continued

where we had our scrumptious lunch.

As soon as our hungry tummies were filled, we all hopped back into the Land Rover and headed on our way to the mystical Kanto Lampo waterfall. “Mystical” I think is the right word to describe Kanto Lampo which is pretty much laying low under the radar, outshined by the popular Aling-aling or Gitgit waterfall in Singaraja – I mean, even a local writer like me has not heard much about this spot before.

Of course, there is a positive side to it. Kanto Lampo is considerably “underground” and not so touristy, so visitors can expect to have the waterfall all to themselves. This scenic natural wonder is a seasonal waterfall that cascades down a stepped rock wall into a waist-deep among Ubud visitors. This ridge is

air, gentle breeze and screaming

clear pond. This was the perfect

also accessible by foot or bike, but

cicadas accompanied our walk for a

spot to cool ourselves down after the

motorbikes are strictly prohibited.

good 30 to 45 minutes, until we got

ridge walk and mouth-watering lunch

The trek is considerably easy with

to the southern end. We crossed the

before hopping back into the Land

a distance spanning around two

main road to enter Murni’s warung,

Rover and heading back to jam-

kilometers. Strolling here surely gave

an iconic eating pad which has

packed Denpasar.

us a unique experience of a typical

been running since 1974, making

By Gino Andrias

back road near Ubud, away from

it the first real restaurant in Ubud.

the hustle of the main road. The cool

As WakaLandCruise’s guests, this is

WakaLandCruise Jalan Imam Bonjol 467, Denpasar (0361) 484-085

TRAVELLING TIPS: • Wear a pair of comfortable shoes or mountain sandals with strap with quality sole and grip, as there will be a lot of walking.

• A pair of sunglasses is a must.

• A loose long sleeve T-shirt might be a good idea, especially for the Tjampuhan ridge walk.

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PHOTOS BY GINO ANDRIAS

www.wakahotelsandresorts.com

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51

BEYONDBALI

MAGICAL LAKE

JOIN OUR CONTRIBUTOR EDNA TARIGAN EXPLORING LABUAN CERMIN, A CRYSTAL CLEAR LAKE IN EAST BORNEO…

“L

et’s go to Lake

on the surface and salty water at

Labuan Cermin

the deeper level, and they do not

someday in the

intermix with each other. The lake is

near future,” a dear

even more popular than the district

by a six-hour road trip to Biduk-

friend of mine said

itself, and I was curious enough to

biduk, we took a motor boat that

see its beauty with my own eyes.

can accommodate up to 10 people

one day. It was only two months later that we made the trip come

Many visitors go to Labuan

to reach the lake. The 15-minute

true. Pictures of a blue lake with a

Cermin as a part of their trip to

boat ride from our homestay in

small boat floating with almost no

Derawan and Maratua Islands,

Biduk-biduk Village was the start of

reflections on the waters were filling

which are also located in Berau

our adventure…

my head. I saw those photos on

regency. However, during my visit

social media, and they were enough

to Labuan Cermin, I opted to stay in

CRYSTAL CLEAR

to make me agree to go on this trip.

Biduk-biduk district rather than make

The view as we cruised on the motor

a trip to Derawan and Maratua

boat was already breathtaking,

biduk district of Berau regency in

Islands, as I wanted to cherish my

even before we arrived at the lake.

East Borneo, Labuan Cermin is a

time at the lake. So, after a flight

Tosca waters with greenery along its

meromictic lake which is famous for

from Jakarta to Kalimarau Airport in

sides made a picture-perfect scenery

its two layers of water – fresh water

Tanjung Redeb in Berau, followed

during our journey from the pier to

Situated at the entrance of Biduk-

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

Tosca waters and greenery on our way to Labuan Cermin.

the lake. Sometimes, we encountered

the lake. And every second we

the lake really is. The nearest part

other boats that just got back from

spent on the water, I found myself

of the lake to the land is almost five-

the lake. And when we finally

mesmerized by the scenery. I thought

meters deep already. That is why,

entered Labuan Cermin area… I was

the lake was full of underwater

he warned us to be careful when

lost for words.

ecosystem that made the water so

swimming in the lake.

The lake takes about one hectare

blue. But after a couple of minutes

With waters so pristine, Lake

and is surrounded by jungle. There is

staring at the waters from the boat,

Labuan Cermin is perfect for

a small pier made of plastic barrels

my jaw dropped as I realized just

swimming and snorkeling. So,

and wood that connects the lake

how crystal clear the water really

make sure to bring snorkeling and

with the land. The area was almost

is – I could see rocks and some fish

swimming gear when visiting this

deserted – there was only our group

swimming under the surface.

lake.

and another boat tied to the pier. I felt like the lake was ours alone.

Before we stopped at the pier, our boat skipper took us around

According to our skipper, the lake may seem shallow as we can see

PICTURE PERFECT

underwater life from the boat, but no

As photography enthusiasts, we

one ever actually knows how deep

didn’t want to miss the chance to

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

53

take some “compulsory pictures” in Labuan Cermin; that is to take photos on the boat with almost no reflections at all on the water. This is to create an illusion that our boat is flying rather than floating on the water. This photo style has become

With almost no reflection on the waters, it seems like our boat is flying rather than floating.

iconic to Labuan Cermin on social was so intrigued by this lake.

snorkeled in the waters, my curiosity

and go deeper into the lake. This is

about Labuan Cermin as a meromictic

definitely one of the best swimming

to snap this illusive picture as the

lake was met. I could see the layers

experiences in a natural wonder I’ve

best time is only between 11 a.m. to

under the surface where waters with

ever had in my life.

2 p.m. when the sun is right above

different characters and temperatures

Before dusk came, we had to

our heads. During this time, not only

separate from each other. It was such

leave the lake. On our way back on

can we get the flying-boat illusion,

a unique experience. The water was

the boat, I said to myself that I would

but we can also capture the lake

also so refreshing that we spent hours

go back to Biduk-biduk district and

at its brightest color. With patience

exploring almost the whole part of the

visit Lake Labuan Cermin again next

and determination, we managed to

lake.

time. But before that time comes, I

However, it is quite challenging

take some shots and were proud of the result!

After taking our “compulsory

The roots and tree branches under

would like to perfect my swimming

the water were another interesting

and free diving so I can explore

discovery as I swam deeper. And

the deeper level of the lake when I

pictures”, it was time to take a

I can only imagine how fun it

return.

swim in the crystal clear water. As I

would be to do free diving here

By Edna Tarigan

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PHOTOS BY EDNA TARIGAN

media, and also one of the reasons I

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55

CAPITALCORNER

WHEN THE

CITY’S ASLEEP

OUR CONTRIBUTOR FADIL AZIZ CHERISHED THE ONLY TIME OF THE YEAR WHEN JAKARTA WAS QUITE DESERTED…

I

magine a city with about 10

then renamed to Jayakarta, but in

million people and more coming

early 17th AD, the Dutch seized the

to either work, travel or simply

port of Jayakarta and changed its

live. Can we call it a gargantuan

name to Batavia.

city? Maybe we can, since the

Batavia played a very important

sprawling city becomes even larger

role during the Dutch colonization

over time, packed with more people,

as it became the administrative and

vehicles, apartments, offices, and

capital city of the Dutch East Indies

so on. The city now even “eats up”

for more than three centuries. The

its neighboring areas, transforming

Dutch built a magnificent Stadhuis

into an even bigger urban town

(a big spice warehouse) and

with about 30 million people. This is

canals which can still be seen now

Jakarta, a metropolitan that is often

in the Old Batavia area – please

considered to be “never asleep”.

refer to our ‘Capital Corner’ of the

However, not many people know

June 2016 issue, titled “Historical

that there is a short time in the year

Buildings in the Old Area of

when Jakarta morphs into a sleeping

Jakarta”.

beauty and reveals its charm and charisma...

According to Britannica in 1910, during the colonization, the

work in Jakarta live in the satellite

population of the city ranged from

cities, which are often called “the

THE OLD DAYS

100,000-200,000 people. The

sphere”. The term “Greater Jakarta”

Jakarta was once a tiny trading

number increased dramatically to

is also commonly used to refer to

outpost of an inland Hindu kingdom

533,000 people (based on Forbes,

these areas which include Bogor,

around the estuary of Ciliwung

2004) in the first half of the 20

Depok, Tangerang, and Bekasi

River, about 600 years ago. In early

century. In 1949, the city was

(Jabodetabek). If we combine

th

16 AD, the Portuguese had an

renamed to Djakarta and has ever

the population of Jakarta with its

eye on this sleepy hamlet (named

since become the capital city of

spheres, the population reaches

Sunda Kalapa at that time) to find

Indonesia, attracting economy-driven

a staggering figure of about 32

a spice trade route in the Malay

people from all over the country,

million people! Can you imagine?

Archipelago. They established a

and the world. Hence, it has an

No wonder the Greater Jakarta

stronghold there, but Fatahillah, on

estimated population of 10 million

area is among the largest urban

behalf of the Sultanate of Demak,

people, making it the 10 largest

agglomerations on the planet.

conquered the Portuguese in Sunda

city in the world.

th

Kalapa in 1527. Sunda Kalapa was

th

However, many people who

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

The daily traffic congestion is also proof of how big Jakarta is.

Jakarta looks more beautiful when the city lights are on.

Many of the city dwellers have to

Indonesian population reside here.

start their journey to the ofďŹ ce early

calendar that is celebrated throughout the world. To celebrate

in the morning just after the sun

THE SLEEPING BEAUTY

the beginning of a new chapter after

rises and return home long after it

Still, there is beauty and positivity to

spending a full month of fasting,

sets. Spending hours on the road is

this city. As I have mentioned earlier,

Muslims in Jakarta who have moved

a typical scenario and becomes a

many Jakarta people and commuters

out of their kampongs to work or

daily routine for the Jakarta people.

originated from other places in the

study will go back to their kampongs

Therefore, a thorough schedule is

country. At one point, they will make

to gather with their family members.

mandatory every day. A half hour

a return journey to their kampongs,

Thus, annual migration has become

difference can be a make or a

mostly back to Java and Sumatra to

a part of the celebration in the

break; you can either be on time or

visit their families and relatives. This

country as millions of people travel

even too early to your meeting or

usually happens during the Eid al-Fitr

out of Jakarta using all kind of

end up wasting too much time in the

holiday that falls after the fasting

vehicles, leaving the city empty and

trafďŹ c and return rather late at night.

month of Ramadhan.

a bit deserted.

Sounds scary? It is. This is what happens when almost 12 percent of

Eid al-Fitr, or Lebaran, is one

Off they go, and all the streets

of the holiest days in the Islamic

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

are empty, especially in the ďŹ rst few

57

there weren’t any helicopters whatsoever. Less people on the ground also means less risk. The air was also far from polluted. I could even see mountains surrounding Greater Jakarta quite clearly in the distance, among them Mount Salak, Mount Gede Pangrango, and the Halimun on the west; Puncak and Sentul area on the South; and Hambalang and Kelapa Nunggal days of Lebaran – however, many of them stay behind in Jakarta and go

hustle and traffic congestion.

As the city is more “asleep” than

hill on the East. This was pretty amazing. I can tell you that this is

to amusement parks, museums and

usual, it is probably best to tour

quite a rare occasion during my 40

malls on the following day, so it’s

Jakarta using a bicycle (or simply

years of living in the city.

better to avoid these places to get

walk) and visit the Old Batavia

away from the crowd. Restaurants,

area. You can also go to the Pasar

choose, enjoying Jakarta when

food joints and cafés are still open

Ikan area, Senayan, and many

most of the population are off to

to serve customers, especially on the

other places. This year, I opted to

their kampongs would be a great

second or third day after Lebaran.

hunt for some cityscape pictures,

experience. The city will reward

Still, Jakarta morphs into a sleeping

focusing on aerial views. I was

you with gorgeous scenery which is

beauty. For me personally, this is

able to fly my drone safely enough

precious to treasure for a lifetime.

the time to enjoy the city without any

compared to normal days because

By Fadil Aziz

PHOTOS BY FADIL AZIZ (WWW.ALCIBBUMPHOTOGRAPHY.COM)

No matter what activities you

When the city is quite empty, the sky is clearer.

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59

BEYONDUPDATES

WELLNESS RETREAT

ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

Imagine joining a yoga class on a private island, under a 100-foot waterfall, surrounded by rice paddy fields with a view of an untouched beach – it’s truly blissful, isn’t it? Now you don’t have to fantasize about it anymore because Nihi Sumba Islands offers all of that in their first ever “Wild & Free” yoga retreat.

From October 7 to 12, this program is conducted by two yoga experts; Sjana Earp, a young yogi and a photojournalist who is passionate about young women empowerment, and Rod Cooper, the owner of The Movement Collective in Australia which focuses on animal flow, gymnastics, acrobatics and calisthenics. The classes will combine hatha, vinyasa, and restorative yoga as well as breathing techniques and meditation. Aside from wellness activities, this retreat also takes guests to explore the island’s tropical jungle, discover an ancient tribal culture, visit serene beaches and trek the Nihioka Valley to enjoy a walk through rice paddy fields with a view of Indian Ocean.

Nihi Sumba Islands, Sumba, East Nusa Tenggara Bali office: (0361) 757-149 www.nihihotels.com

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61

COMMUNITYCALENDAR

FISHERMEN’S FESTIVAL On October 5, don’t miss the island’s first ever boat festival! Hosted by Plataran L’Harmonie in West National Bali Park in West Bali, the “Menjangan Fisherman Boat Carnival 2017” will display colorful traditional fisherman boats on Menjangan’s tranquil waters. The festival is also merrier with a Full Moon Tirta Yatra Celebration at Pulaki and Segara Giri Menjangan Temple, a dance and music performance from Benih Kasih Orphans and a beach cleanup activity. This special event starts at 9 a.m., and presents a fishermen-village-themed buffet dinner with Indonesian dishes at The Octagon Ocean Club, available at Rp. 350,000 nett/ person. www.plataranlharmonie.com

IT’S A BATIK DAY!

ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

Following its success last year, Ayodya Batik Festival returns at Ayodya Resort Bali on October 6, 7 and 8. Held at the resort’s Grand Ballroom, the festival is the place to be for everyone who wants to learn about the rich heritage of batik. On October 7, don’t miss a fashion show by talented Indonesian designers like Dwi Iskandar and Afif Shukar, as well as a 14-course gala rijstaffel dinner (available from Rp. 950,000 nett/person) with music by Maya Hassan and Balawan. And on October 8, the festival will be merrier with a fashion show by Joko SPP and Lumiga, followed by a buffet dinner with a live performance by Crazy Horse Band, available at Rp. 250,000 nett/person. To book a ticket, simply drop an email to pr@ ayodyaresortbali.com. The threeday event starts at 10 a.m.

Ayodya Resort Bali Jalan Pantai Mengiat, Nusa Dua (0361) 77-1102 www.ayodyaresortbali.com

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63

Together with 15FIT, a Bali fitness training studio, W Resort - Seminyak presented the resort’s first ever “Silent Spin” at WooSky. Participants were invited to join a cycle fit class with the sound of W music playing through headphones. The fun continued with the “Silent Disco” at Woobar with DJ Crip, DJ Kulki and the W’s resident DJ Damian Saint. All proceeds from the “Silent Spin” are donated to Bali Mother & Baby House. www.wbaliseminyak.com

IN HARMONY Introducing its new Ashtanga Yoga weekly class, The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali hosted a private yoga session conducted by the resort’s Wellness Specialist, Jitendra Pokhriyal.

Ashtanga Yoga combines breathing technique with movements, which can help participants achieve a harmonious mental and physical health. www.westinnusaduabali.com

IT’S A RACE! Hand in hand with Bali Safari & Marine Park, the Maybank Bali Marathon 2017 was back for the sixth time! This year, the race welcomed more than 9000 participants from around the world, competing in Full Marathon, Half Marathon and 10K run. Even children can also joined this event in the 400-meter and 100-meter sprint competition. www.balimarathon.com 64

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

UBUD VILLAGE JAZZ FESTIVAL PHOTOS BY JAKA DHARMA, ALL OTHERS COURTESY PHOTOS

SEE&SEEN

SPIN AND DANCE

SOUNDS OF INDONESIA Celebrating the rich diversity of Indonesia’s archipelago, Padma Resort Legian presented “Rhapsody Nusantara” where Indonesian musician Ananda Sukarlan beautifully played a number of national and classic songs with a piano. His performance was accompanied by Indonesian young talented soprano singer, Mariskan Setiawan. www.padmaresortlegian.com

NUSA DUA FIESTA For the fourth year in a row, Bali Collection successfully hosted “Bali Collection Festival”. Located at Bali Collection Block A within the ITDC area in Nusa Dua, the event began with “Carnival Runway – A Carnival Outfit Design Competition”, continued with a makeover session by The Shampoo Lounge and a sunset cocktail party. The night was also alive with music and artsy performance by Yuni Shara and Jasmine Okubo respectively, and a fashion show by a number of designers like Dwico, Elfi Lila, and Linda Rose. www.bali-collection.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2017

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ILLUSTRATION MAPS BY ADE PARTHA & RIO WEDAYANA

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INFOINDEX

AIRLINES

Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz

Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 E-mail: rtc_bali@thaimail.com

■ AIRPORT OPERATOR Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ FRANCE

■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS

Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id

■ TIMOR LESTE Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com

■ GERMANY

■ UNITED STATES

Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369

Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com

Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id

■ ROYAL BRUNEI

■ HUNGARY

Tel: (0361) 757-292

■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES

Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur.

Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: huconbali@telkom.net

Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 936-8388, Fax: (0361) 936-8383

■ INDIA

■ GARUDA Jl. Jalan Sugianyar, 5 Denpasar

Jl. Raya Puputan 163, Renon - Denpasar Tel. (0361) 259-502/259-503 Fax.(0361) 259-505

Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888

■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA

Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807

■ MERPATI Jl. Gatot Subroto Tengah, 26 Denpasar Tel: (0361) 411-364 Airport Tel: (0361) 9351-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741

■ MANDALA AIRLINES Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar, Reservation Call center 08041234567

■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761

HEALTH&MEDICAL

■ ITALY Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org

■ JAPAN Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: denpasar@dp.mofa.go.jp

■ MALAYSIA Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com

■ THAI INTERNATIONAL Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141

■ QATAR AIRWAYS Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Departure International Terminal, 2nd fl. – Room OP.II.8 East Wing Ngurah Rai International Airport Tel: (0361) 9360274; Fax : (0361) 9360275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 75,000. No Fiscal tax-exempt to pay for Indonesian and expatriates holding KITAS for International departure. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ MEXICO PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com

Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics.

Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods.

Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas.

Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately.

Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe.

Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun.

Use high SPF sunblock and a hat.

AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world.

They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.

■ NETHERLANDS

■ ROYAL DANISH Sunset Road No. 89 Ruko Sunset Indah I Kav. 3 Tel: (0361) 821-6979, Fax: (0361) 7666-38 E-mail: danishconsbali@gmail.com

CLINIC&HOSPITAL 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff.

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515

(ARMA) Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229.

Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm

■ ABIAN KAPAS Jl. Nusa Indah, East Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-176

■ ANTONIO BLANCO Ubud , Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551 open daily 8 am-5 pm

■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Pejeng, Tel: (0361) 942-352 Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays

■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends

■ GALLERY SENIWATI Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar ■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur.

Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.

■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended

■ MUSEUM NEKA Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm.

Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com

■ MUSEUM RUDANA Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud

■ MUSEUM SUBAK Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan

■ BIMC Hospital Kuta ■ POLAND

■ BRITAIN

■ SPAIN

■ BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua

Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id

Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 E-mail: espana_bali@blueline.net.id

24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre, Dialysis Centre, Dental Centre.

Kawasan BTDC, Blok D, Nusa Dua 80363, Tel: (0361) 3000-911, Fax: (0361) 3001-150

NEW ZEALAND Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au

■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART

■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC

Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com

■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA,

MUSEUMS

■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN

KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com

24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre for non-invasive and invasive cosmetic and aesthetic treatments.

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 761-263, Fax: (0361) 767-701

CONSULATES

■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15

Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 E-mail: consul@balipolandconsulate.com

■ SLOVAKIA

TOURIST INFO. ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188

■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL

■ BRAZIL Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 E–mail: brazilconsul@bali.net

■ SWEDEN & FINLAND Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 E-mail: sweconsul@yahoo.com

■ CHILE Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com

■ CZECH REPUBLIC Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur.

■ THAILAND Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81,

70

■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76

■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387

■ SILOAM HOSPITALS

■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41

24-hour emergency 779-911 Jl. Sunset Road No. 818, Kuta, Badung, Bali Tel: +62-361-779-900 E-mail: info.bali@siloamhospitals.com

■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm

■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA Jl. Ganetri 9 D, Gatot Subroto Timur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 264-149, Fax: (0361) 243-747 E-mail: bali@honrep.ch

AIRPORT Tel: (0361) 751-011

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