Bali & Beyond Magazine March 2014

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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

M A R C H 2 014 VOLUME 15 NO. 166

CULTURAL FUN FACTS, NATURE ACTIVITIES, CULINARY CREATIONS AND SIGHTS THAT TAKE OUR BREATH AWAY

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www.baliandbeyond.co.id

MARCH P R I M E P R O M O T I O N • NBALI&BEYOND EW & N E W2014 S •1 I N F O I N D E X • M A P O F B A L I


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TEAMTALK

THOSE JAW-DROPPING MOMENTS ‘Om Swastiastu...’

For this month of March we wanted to find content that would take your breath away! So within the pages of this edition we’ve prepared for you a FOTO FOLIO of beautiful images from around the archipelago that will surely inspire wanderlust, cultural fun facts about Bali that will hopefully enlighten and/or surprise you, a piece about a mystical tradition that is still being carried out in Central Java, and an article in CAPITAL CORNER that is a reminder of how not

COVER By David Metcalf

too long ago, Indonesia was not yet a sovereign nation and the landscape was far different than what you see today. On the lifestyle side of things, we’ve compiled some of our favorite Bali beaches for you (complete with directions on how to get there), and present to you our review of a luxurious 24 Carat Gold Facial that we’re sure will have you curious to try out for yourself! We also have a couple choice dining experiences that are stimulating to the senses, and we’re not just talking about taste here! Turn to DINE & DELIGHTS to see the eye-catching culinary creations at FIRE Restaurant and LITTLE LOVES to learn about how at Sari Organik you can handpick from the ground the ingredients that will go into your next meal. Enjoy the month of March, readers! If you’re here during the Day of Silence (Nyepi holiday) at the end of this month, make sure to do some stargazing – it’s truly an amazing experience.

Errata: In our February 2014 edition ‘Lippo Plaza Sunset’ was mistakenly written as ‘Lippo Sunset Plaza’ and ‘WakaSailing’ was mistakenly written as ‘Waka Sailing.’ We apologize for the errors.

‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team

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BALI & BEYOND General Manager GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id Senior Editor MUTIA ARINI ADISOMA mutia@baliandbeyond.co.id Editor ARIKO AHMAD ariko@baliandbeyond.co.id Editorial Advisors A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS Graphic Advisor WENIAR PRAMESTI Senior Graphic Designer I PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id Web & Graphic Designer MELIYANA SANTOSO meli@baliandbeyond.co.id Advertising & MarComm. Manager D. ARIEF SENOAJI arief@baliandbeyond.co.id Advertising Sales Executive NOVENTY ARIANI venty@baliandbeyond.co.id Advertising Sales Executive MEE WAURAN mee@baliandbeyond.co.id F&A Supervisor A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id Accounting Staff I GUSTI AYU MADE RINA ADIARI rina@baliandbeyond.co.id GA & Personnel Adm GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id Distribution NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA nyoman@baliandbeyond.co.id Contributors YOPPY PIETER, BAYU RAHANATHA, INDRASWARI IQBAL, STEPHANIE BROOKES, DAVID METCALF TIM HAIN, MATTHEW OLDFIELD, JEAN-MANUEL NADEAU, TAUFAN WIJAYA, AGUNG PARAMESWARA Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription RISKA WAHYUNINGSIH riska.wahyuningsih@baliandbeyond.co.id Tel: (021) 398 36061 (Ext. 224) Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO

Printing PT. SUBURMITRA GRAFISTAMA, JAKARTA OFFICE Bali White House Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23 Block IV, Kuta 80361- Bali Tel: +62 361 8868601-2, Fax: +62 361 750075 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id

Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590

A member of

Endorsed by

CONTRIBUTORS

BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313

www. skal.org skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id

Bayu Rahanatha

Yoppy Pieter

is a lecturer at Udayana University and a Marketing Communications specialist. He also has his own business in tourism but still finds time to continue his writing hobby.

is a photographer and writer documenting social issues and travel. His interests led him to train in photography via the PannaFoto Institute, the Permata Photojournalist Grant and the Angkor Photo Workshop. www.yoppycture.com

Taufan Wijaya

Matthew Oldfield

started his career at the Jawa Pos in 2007 and later joined the Tribun from 2009-2013. He currently writes freelance and is a photojournalist contributor for London-based media, while working on his personal documentary projects. 10

is a freelance editorial and commercial photographer documenting social issues, food, fish and fashion. He loves to explore Indonesia both above and below the waves. www. matthewoldfield. photoshelter.com BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

David Metcalf is an avid traveler and photographer who spends most of his time exploring the wonders of Indonesia. He is fascinated by indigenous cultures and runs photography tours in Bali and abroad. www. davidmetcalfphotography.com

Stephanie Brookes is a freelance writer who lives in Bali. She explores Bali and beyond and writes about culture, travel hotspots and wildlife adventures. Her published work can be found on www. travelwriter.ws


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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

contents 03.14 MARCH 2014 Volume 15 No. 166

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BALI FUN FACTS

PHOTOS & FUN FACTS

A compilation of intriguing facts about Balinese life and culture

Snapshots and quotes picked up throughout January and February

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LIFE'S A BEACH

MODERN FLAIR

Our favorite beaches along the southern coast of Bali

A peek into the newly renovated suites and villas at the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan

LIFESTYLE&LEISURE

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DINE&DELIGHTS LIGHT MY FIRE

A review of the W Bali’s tantalizing Tasting Menu at FIRE restaurant

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PROFILE&PORTRAIT MADE IN BALI

Interview with the woman behind the famous Warung Made

SIGHTS&SOUNDS

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REST&RELAXATION

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PONDERINGPOINT SAVING PARADISE

How we can help keep Bali’s shores clean and beautiful

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+ 16 PRIMEPROMOTION Hot deals and promotions of the month that shouldn’t be missed

20 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island

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INVITE&INDULGE GOLDEN GLOW

82 FEAST&FESTIVITIES

A review of Cocoon Medical Spa’s luxurious 24 Carat Gold Facial

Some great deals held in conjunction with Nyepi holiday

84 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events

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86 SEE&SEEN

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FOTOFOLIO

DISCOVER INDONESIA A collection of stunning images from all over Indonesia by photographer David Metcalf

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LITTLELOVES

FRESH ORGANIC FARE Pick your ingredients straight from the garden at Sari Organik Restaurant 12

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Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month

88 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations

94 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses

FIRST COLUMN PHOTO BY MATTHEW OLDFIELD, SECOND COLUMN BY DAVID METCALF THIRD COLUMN COURTESY OF INTERCONTINENTAL JIMBARAN BALI

CRAFT&CULTURE


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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

contents 03.14 MARCH 2014

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78 CAPITALCORNER

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ACTION&ATTRACTION JOURNEY INTO BALI

We hitch a ride with WakaLandCruise to explore a rarely visited side of Bali

EXPLORING KOTA TUA

The history behind Jakarta’s Old Town and the places there worth visiting

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BEYONDBALI

MYSTICAL LOCKS A tradition in Central Java that involves cutting children’s dreadlocks

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TOP PHOTO BY YOPPY PIETER, BOTTOM PHOTO COURTESY OF WAKALANDCRUISE

Volume 15 No. 166


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Enjoy a fabulous selection of bite-sized Japanese delights every Friday night within the sleek and dimly lit interior of the InterContinental Bali Resort’s KO Restaurant. ‘Tokyo Night’ is a unique dining experience that allows each diner to choose eight out of the 15 delicious options such as the Tenderloin Robata, Chimichuri Wagyu Beef Roll and Salmon Tataki with Nori Chip, for Rp. 480,000++/person. Alternatively, pay Rp. 780,000++/person to include free flow sake cocktails or Rp. 930,000++/person to include free flow sake cocktails and hot or cold sake. The flavors are absolutely on point here, so do consider it for your next Friday night outing! KO Restaurant at InterContinental Bali Resort Jalan Uluwatu No. 45, Jimbaran (0361) 701-888, www.bali.intercontinental.com

EARTH HOUR Alila Ubud is joining the ‘Think globally, act locally’ movement. In celebration of this year’s Earth Hour (taking place around the globe on March 29 at 8.30 p.m.), they are offering an exclusive tasting menu that features dishes where the ingredients are sourced no more than 15 km from the resort. Created by the resort’s Chef Erwan, the special Earth Hour dinner will take place at Plantation Restaurant for Rp. 625,000++/person. Savor the beautiful fare in a candlelight-only atmosphere while being serenaded by acoustic entertainment. Alila Ubud Desa Melinggih Kelod, Gianyar (0361) 975-963 www.alilahotels.com

2014 VACAY DEALS Semara Resort & Spa Seminyak is offering its guests a money-saving holiday this year with year-round flat rates! This means you can stay at Semara whenever you like without being charged any high season surcharges, starting from just US$ 120++/night for an Executive Suite. For those on a tighter budget, the stylish resort is offering further discounts in March for Standard Rooms, with prices as low as US$ 63++/ night. This is quite the deal for a resort located so close to Seminyak’s best restaurants, bars and boutiques! Semara Resort & Spa Seminyak Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak (0361) 370-0281, www.semaraseminyak.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

PRIMEPROMOTION

TOKYO DINING

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PRIMEPROMOTION

THE SCENE TO BE IN

PRE-SIESTA

The W Retreat & Spa Bali is turning three this month, and to celebrate they are throwing a month-long bash called ‘A NEW SCENE UNSEEN.’ It starts on March 1 with a party, fashion shows and a stellar DJ line-up that includes Copyright and Stefano Ritteri from the U.K. If you don’t make it to the party no need to fret – the celebrations continue with ‘A Mad T-Party’ where afternoon tea at the W Lounge gets an Alice in Wonderland twist from renowned Australian patissier Adriano Zumbo (will be available every day from March 6). At the end of the month, Fire Restaurant will transform into ‘The Hawker House – Street Feast’ where Peter Lloyd, Executive Chef of W London, will cook up Southeast Asian fare with a Balinese twist for a special brunch experience on March 23 that replicates a bustling Southeast Asian bazaar. W Retreat & Spa Bali – Seminyak Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak (0361) 471-8106, www.wretreatbali.com

Head down to La Finca in the Batu Belig area for their fantastic no-fuss lunch package deals that go for Rp. 85,000 (main course + drink), Rp. 155,000 (appetizer + main + drink) and Rp. 135,000 (appetizer + main + dessert + drink). You can choose what you like from the special lunch menu that includes dishes like their hearty Chicken Burger with chili-garlic-basil marinade, crushed avocado, homemade sun-dried tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and aioli. Round it off with some Catalanstyle Caramelized Foam Pudding or Churros with molten chocolate sauce. Tempted? We bet you are! La Finca Jalan Subak Sari No. 77, Batu Belig (0361) 210-5080 www.lafincabali.com

On March 6 the Mozaic Beachclub is hosting a beachside concert by the Earth, Wind and Fire Experience featuring Al McKay. The night will also be shared with guest DJs Stevie G and Jonahan Yeo, who will spin the decks until the wee hours. Tickets are limited and sold on a first-come-first-served basis with prices starting from Rp. 750,000 for general admission, Rp. 1.3 million for the upstairs Plaga VIP Lounge (includes free flow Plaga Wine and canapés) and Rp. 15 million for a special Ketel One Gazebo package (includes two bottles of Ketel One Vodka for a maximum party of 10 guests). Mozaic Beachclub Jalan Pantai Batu Belig, Kerobokan (0361) 473-5796, www.mozaic-beachclub.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

ONE NIGHT ONLY


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Non-resort fitness enthusiasts can now enjoy access to the Sheraton Bali Kuta’s ocean-facing fitness center, Sheraton Fitness by Core Performance. The resort has recently launched a daily pass program that allows access to the gym for an entire day, and you can take a gym buddy for free! An introductory rate is available for only Rp. 125,000++ and is inclusive of complementary usage of the resort’s infinity pool, sauna and locker room as well as a 20% discount on 60-minute treatments (or longer) at Shine Spa, plus a 30% discount at the delicious Bene Italian Kitchen. This offer is valid until May 10, so don’t miss out! Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort Jalan Pantai Kuta, Kuta, (0361) 846-5555 www.sheratonbalikuta.com

WINE OBSERVER In celebration of its 20th anniversary, award-winning Hatten Wines has opened a Welcome Center and Observation Deck at their North Bali vineyards. By opening its biggest vineyard to the public, Hatten Wines wishes to show visitors the beauty of Bali’s North Coast as well as to provide a peek into one of the area’s main industries. Open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., these new facilities will allow visitors to learn how wine is made, and of course there’s also wine tasting! www.hattenwines.com

BALI MARY Did you know that bartender Fernand Petiot invented the original Bloody Mary at The St. Regis New York? As part of The St. Regis Bali Resort’s 5th Anniversary celebration, you can try this cocktail at King Cole Bar along with four other distinctive Bloody Marys from The St. Regis properties around the globe. The five drinks for five years include the Original Bloody Mary from The St. Regis New York, the Bora Mary from The St. Regis Bora Bora, the Chili Padi Mary from The St. Regis Singapore, the Agave Maria Bloody Mary from The St. Regis Monach Beach and of course, the Bali Mary from The St. Regis Bali. The St. Regis Bali Resort Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot S-6, Nusa Dua (0361) 847-8111, www.stregisbali.com

FINER THINGS IN LIFE Métis Restaurant & Gallery has recently added to their impressive collection the contemporary artwork of Chinese sculptors Huang Gang and the Luo Brothers. Located on the second floor is also a collection of antique furniture, weapons and adornments capturing the depth and range of Asian art. Métis Restaurant & Gallery, Jalan Petitenget No. 6, Seminyak, (0361) 473-7888, www.metisbali.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

NEW&NEWS

GYM BUDDIES


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NEW&NEWS

FREE SHIPPING! One of Bali’s famous fashion brands, Paul Ropp, has recently launched a new website that boasts the brand’s newest online wardrobe. The best part is the fact that when you make a purchase online, shipping is now free via courier worldwide! So what are you waiting for? www.paulropp.com

SPICE OF INDONESIA Savor authentic Indonesian flavors in an Indonesian market atmosphere at the Bumbu Nusantara Restaurant. This new restaurant at The Bay in Nusa Dua offers a wide range of traditional Indonesian dishes featuring the freshest ingredients. Lunch options are a la carte while the dinner buffet is served ‘night market’ style. The restaurant also offers afternoon tea with traditional snacks as well as cooking classes for those who are interested in learning more about Indonesian food. It’s truly a great one-stop shop for Indonesian cuisine. Bumbu Nusantara Restaurant The Bay at BTDC, Nusa Dua (0361) 891-48118 www.bumbu-nusantara.com

A brand new hotel has just opened in the heart of Seminyak. Hip and sophisticated, the TS Suites Leisure Seminyak Bali offers 155 stylish rooms, a large rooftop infinity pool, a host of dining options and a day-and-night club. Also included for guests are the complimentary all-day breakfast and the uberconvenient option of early check-in and late check-out. This property is poised to be one of Seminyak’s up and coming lifestyle hubs! TS Suites Leisure Seminyak Bali Jalan Nakula No. 18, Seminyak (0361) 846-9222, www.tssuites.com

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ALL PHOTOS COURTESY

NEW SUITE ON THE BLOCK


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CRAFT&CULTURE

A

s a Balinese, I’ll be the first to tell you that life here is really amazing. I won’t say that it is an easy

life per se, what with the countless ceremonies that we have, and it would take a lifetime to tell you all about what we do here in Bali. But to give you a glimpse into our lives and the meaning behind some of our beliefs and traditions, here are some interesting facts for you!

DID YOU KNOW? • The Balinese believe that every child born into this world is accompanied by four guardian angels called catur sanak. These four angels are said to stay beside the child until he or she turns four

A COMPILATION OF FASCINATING FACTS ABOUT LIFE ON THE ISLAND.

years old. • The Balinese celebrate their Balinese birthday twice a year based on astrological calculations repeated every six months. So basically, there are three celebrations for a Balinese each year: their birthday (based on their birth date) and two Balinese birthdays (otonan). • Every Balinese must undertake a tooth filling ceremony to welcome

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TOP RIGHT PHOTO BY BAYU RAHANATHA ALL OTHERS BY IB DONNY CAHYADI

FLASHES OF BALINESE LIFE


adulthood. It is believed that the

entrance gate of their house. The

ceremony helps one to become

idea of having a “bare entrance

stronger both physically and

gate” stemmed from the culture of

mentally, and it is crucial for

welcoming everyone into their home.

mitigating one’s “evil side” – desire (kama), greed (lobha), anger

• The Balinese are known for

(krodha), intoxication or being under

their advanced irrigation system

the influence of strong emotion

called subak, which is a reflection

(mada), confusion (moha) and

of the tri hita karana philosophy

jealousy (matsarya).

of maintaining a harmonious relationship with God, other people

• The Balinese have their own

and nature. On June 29, 2012, the

version of feng shui called asta

subak system was awarded World

kosala kosali. The minimum area

Heritage Cultural Landscape status

of land necessary to apply the asta

by UNESCO.

Top: Asta kosala kosali architectural rules applied to a Balinese home

kosala kosali architectural rules to a house is 200 square meters.

• The “Legong Dance of the Virgins” was one of the first

• In the past it was taboo for a Balinese to have a door at the

international movies that captured the beauty of the island of Bali.

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Bottom: A Balinese woman smiles at her tooth filling cermony


The film opened in New York on

that can only be performed during

October 1, 1935.

a Balinese traditional ceremony because the dance is part of the

• In general there are three

ceremony itself (one example is the

types of traditional Balinese dances.

Sanghyang Dedari dance). Babali

Wali dances are sacred dances

dances are also performed during a ceremony, but the purpose is more to entertain the people involved in the ceremony (one example is Gambuh, or traditional Balinese opera). Balihbalihan dances can be performed anytime and anywhere, because the purpose is purely to entertain (an example of this is the Joged dance). • The Sanghyang Dedari dance can only be performed by young virgins. It is believed that the girls who perform it are in a trance throughout the dance. • Nyepi, or Silent Day, is a Balinese New Year celebration. The day is spent praying and meditating at home with four rules to obey: no

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TOP LEFT PHOTO BY ARIKO AHMAD ALL OTHERS BALI & BEYOND STOCK

Clockwise from top: The subak irrigation system, praying at Pucak Mangu Temple, ogoh-ogoh papier-mâché effigies at a Nyepi celebration, a Balih-balihan dance


light or fire (amati geni), no working

March 31. It will be an amazing

(amati karya), no traveling (amati

experience for you to try!

lelunganan) and no food for 24 hours (amati lelanguan).

• The Balinese believe that the colors red, white and black

• In the past, the Balinese

symbolize the holy spirit of God

celebrated Nyepi with a total

and also represent the idea of

blackout throughout the island, but

our presence in this world. Red

nowadays due to safety reasons and

represents creation, black represents

other considerations, certain public

preservation, and white represents

places such as hospitals, police

balance. The combination of these

stations and hotels are allowed to

colors is called tri datu.

use electricity and light as long as it can’t be seen from outside the building. This year Nyepi falls on

• There are nine temples that guard the island based on the

points of a compass. Those temples are: Batur Temple (North), Besakih Temple (Northeast), Lempuyang Temple (East), Andakasa Temple (Southeast), Gua Lawah Temple (South), Uluwatu Temple (Southwest), Batukaru Temple (West) and Pucak Mangu Temple (Northwest). Representing the center is the Pusering Jagat Temple. There are many other interesting things that you can only find in Bali, and the way for you to learn more is by spending time exploring the island. Don’t hesitate to ask the locals about their lives. Have a wonderful holiday! By Bayu Rahanatha

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LIFESTYLE&LEISURE

LIFE’S A

BEACH!

TEGALWANGI BEACH ----

Located along the

coast from Ayana’s Rock Bar, this well-hidden beach would be the best spot for that uber-laidback sunset session. Going to this beach, head towards Ayana Resorts but turn right to the small and winding road just before the entrance

THERE IS NO SHORTAGE OF BEACHES ON THE ISLAND OF THE GODS. HERE ARE OUR TOP PICKS FROM BALI’S SOUTHERN COAST – THEIR NAMES MIGHT BE A BIT UNFAMILIAR COMPARED TO THEIR MORE POPULAR COUSINS, BUT YOU’LL FIND EACH BEACH ALLURING IN ITS OWN WAY. By Ariko Ahmad

BALANGAN BEACH ----

Rocky cliffs flank this

beautiful beach, and surfers and sun worshippers alike come here for the clear blue water. The beach is quite popular with avid surfers for its waves, and as for those who are there just to catch the sun, the gorgeous stretch

sun loungers that can be rented (for as long as you like) for

of light beige sand is lined with quaint and rustic huts

about Rp. 25,000 each.

offering fresh food and ice-cold drinks.

Some tips: If you decide to venture into the water, we

The sand is perfect for building elaborate sandcastles

recommend reef shoes because of the sharp rocks that are

and the water is great for swimming, especially when the

often covered with slippery green moss. Also, if you’re still a

tide is at medium height. You can also laze about on the

surfing newbie, you might want to hold off on surfing here.

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HOW TO GET THERE: Head towards the AYANA Resort & Spa and turn right onto the winding road just before the entrance to the resort. Don’t worry about missing the turn – it’s highly unlikely, as it’s the only turn there. SOME TIPS: You will have to make your way down a steep and rocky path to get to the beach and the rocks are pretty sharp, so make sure you go down the path slowly. Visit during low tide so you can enjoy the beach without fear of getting dragged into the sea by the waves.

to the resort. You won’t be able to miss the turning, as it is

do their wedding photo shoot. With soft beige sand and

the only turning there.

the bluest water your eyes will ever laid on and big rocks

Tegalwangi is the smallest of the four and the rockiest

lining the shore whilst the golden sun is setting on the

one as well. However it has such a stunning view that it

horizon, this beach will cast a spell on you that will make

has become a popular spot for to-be-married couple to

you want to come back here really soon!

HOW TO GET THERE: Make your way up to the Bukit area via Jalan Uluwatu. Follow the road until the Nirmala Supermarket intersection then turn right onto Jalan Pantai Balangan. Follow the road until you see a surfboard-shaped sign that says “Balangan Beach.” Follow the winding road until you see an open space where cars are parked. You’ll need to pay about Rp. 4,000/car to park there.

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PANDAWA BEACH ----

Once a well-hidden

beach behind a limestone hill in the Kutuh area, Pandawa Beach is becoming increasingly popular. This is due in part to a development that has cut through the limestone, but mostly because visitors can’t get enough of the long stretch of

GUNUNG PAYUNG BEACH ---

This

gorgeous and secluded beach is actually a close neighbor of Pandawa Beach. Located right below the Gunung Payung Temple, you’ll need to go down exactly 292 steps to access the super soft white sand. Making your way down the steep cliff covered with greenery is totally worth the pain, as it will give you one of the most beautiful sights you’ll see on this paradise island (as well as one heck of a cardio workout!). Gunung Payung Beach is actually small compared to first two beaches we mentioned, but you’ll probably agree that it is the best one. The secluded location is perfect for total relaxation, and unlike selling cold drinks. Their stock is fairly limited so we definitely recommend bringing your own beverages

surfing and calm enough to swim in as well, but there are

and snacks. Do remember to collect your rubbish and

no lifeguards so make sure you keep a close eye on your

throw it in a bin (and not in some dark corner in the

little ones. Also, when you are walking up the steps to

parking lot!).

exit the beach, try climbing the steps in a zig-zag fashion

Some tips: The water here is really good for

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to reduce exhaustion.

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PHOTOS BY ARIKO AHMAD

most beaches in Bali, this place has only one hut


HOW TO GET THERE: Make your way up to the Bukit area via Jalan Uluwatu. Follow the road until the Nirmala Supermarket intersection, then turn left towards Jalan Pura Batu Pageh. Go straight until you see the yellow “Pandawa Beach” sign. Turn left and follow the road until you see another sign. Turn right and go down the small and winding road until you see the Nusa Dua Retreat Boutique Villa Resort & Spa on your left. Keep going until you reach a big intersection, then soon you will see a huge banner that says “Pandawa Beach.” Have some money ready to pay the parking attendant who charges per vehicle and per person to enter the beach.

soft white sand and the calm water that can be found there. The beach still manages to retain its charm despite

If you want to enjoy the beach with next to no crowd, we recommend visiting during weekdays. If you are there

the growing crowd, and it will blow your mind with the

during the low tide, you’ll get to see the local seaweed

grand view of its sparkling azure waters from the very

farmers at work harvesting. You might even consider

moment you travel down the hill towards it.

renting a kayak to enjoy Pandawa’s calm water.

HOW TO GET THERE: Make your way as if you’re going to Pandawa Beach except go straight at the second yellow sign instead of turning right to Pandawa. Follow the “Pura Gunung Payung” sign and travel up the road until the fork in the road, and then go right. Keep on that road until you find the gate to the temple, then turn right. You’ll see a small dirt road leading up to a shady area where cars and scooters are parked. Park your vehicle and at the edge of the parking area you’ll see steps going down to the beach.

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Pandawa Beach


DINE&DELIGHTS

LIGHT MY FIRE FIRE AT THE W RETREAT & SPA BALI IS RENOWNED FOR ITS EXCELLENT GRILLE, BUT WE DARE YOU TO TRY THEIR TASTING MENU – IT’S AN ASSAULT ON THE SENSES IN THE BEST POSSIBLE WAY.

A

feature smoke, with

PERSONALIZED FOR YOU

fumes that for a brief

The FIRE Tasting Menu is a six-

moment obscured

course meal that is bound to wow

the entire plate. One

you with every course and will leave

couple of the courses

course melted before my eyes,

you feeling comfortably full by the

breaking open to expose a center

end. There’s no need to be wary

full of sweet surprises. Where

of this set menu, even if you fall

does one start in describing the

on the end of the dining spectrum

experience of dining at FIRE? Let’s

that’s considered “finicky.” Sit

just start at the beginning…

back and relax because the chef

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BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014


BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

33


THE FIRE TASTING MENU IS A SIX-COURSE MEAL THAT IS BOUND TO WOW YOU WITH EVERY COURSE AND WILL LEAVE YOU FEELING COMFORTABLY FULL BY THE END. 34

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014


Clockwise from left: The Wagyu 9+ Carpaccio’s artistic presentation, a friendly waiter with FIRE’s signature Cuba Libre and Liquid of Fire cocktail, the amazing presentation of their superb Steamed Foie Gras Chawan Mushi.

in dashi, soy sauce, sake and mirin, and cooked with a blowtorch. The slices were served up with chopped up papaya and decorated with delicate edible flowers from the W Bali’s own garden. The swordfish belly tasted savory, but in a subtle way. This subtlety is characteristic of Japanese cuisine, which Chef Millar has great appreciation for due to his experience cooking in Japan. Next came a Wagyu 9+ Carpaccio with a quail egg, shimeji mushrooms, capers, green caviar, sea grape and little round balsamic pills. It was a delight to look at with

will come out to personally ask

also means that your meal will be

about food preferences and dietary

a slight variation of what’s listed on

restrictions.

the tabletop menu – a personalized

Mushi is a personal favorite of mine.

experience, indeed.

The Japanese egg custard dish has

“I visit every single table prior to the start of the meal,” explained

its many colorful little details. The Steamed Foie Gras Chawan

chicken, shimeji and edamame

Director of Cuisine Richard Millar.

SEE, SMELL, TASTE

beans mixed into its creamy body,

“This way any food allergies or

Our journey began with an amuse-

and you can’t help but wish for

intolerances can be addressed.” This

bouche of Swordfish Belly marinated

more at the end. Our chawan mushi

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

35


Clockwise from top: Chef Richard Millar preparing the delicious main course, the tender 48 Hour Oyster Blade Steak, the Pod 64% Chocolate Melting Sphere dessert created by Chef Millar in collaboration with Pod Chocolate

was served in an intriguing shiny

the shoulder becomes tender and

sphere surrounded by dry ice; the

the tough tissue turns into a buttery

fog playfully danced about the

texture that practically melts in your

sphere until it ran out.

mouth. “What is this witchcraft?” exclaimed my colleague, to which

Blade Steak that comes out covered

Chef Millar responded with a hearty

with a glass lid. Once the lid is lifted

chuckle.

there’s a beautiful smoky fragrance

Rounding off our meal was the

that hits you, and all you’ll want to

Pod 64% Chocolate Melting Sphere.

do is continue inhaling the smell of

As our server poured hot chocolate

the smoked mango wood. Oyster

onto the sphere, it slowly broke

blade is considered a secondary cut

open to expose a center of white

due to the tough nature of the tissue

chocolate mousse, blood orange

that runs through it, but by vacuum

jelly, pandan streusel and lemon

sealing and slow cooking it in water,

popping candy.

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

36

PHOTOS BY MATTHEW OLDFIELD

Next up was the 48 Hour Oyster


EVENING GLOW

of Fire served in a martini glass

checkered pattern that represents

We recommend visiting FIRE for

or the Cuba Libre, which is what

the struggle between good and evil)

dinner, with some time to kill before

we like to call “Alec Baldwin in

to the red Heliconia that represent

dusk arrives. This way you can enjoy

liquid form.”

flames. See all this for yourself

two different ambiences, because

As sunset begins to blanket

while devouring the Tasting Menu,

the interior feels vastly different

the resort and creep its way into

which is Rp. 700,000++/person for

depending on whether the room is

FIRE’s high-ceiling dining room,

six courses or Rp. 1,100,000++/

flooded with natural light or filled

the warm glow from the fireball

person to include wine pairings.

with the glow of the impressive

chandelier with its countless glass

By Regina Indraswari

hanging light fixtures.

tendrils will illuminate the room. Designed by POOLE Associates, the

FIRE at W Retreat & Spa

modern, with bright splashes of

interior is inspired by the Balinese

Bali – Seminyak

color set against a sleek backdrop.

Kecak Dance, which is reflected in

Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak

It’s the perfect time to enjoy some of

everything from the kitchen’s poleng

(0361) 473-8106

FIRE’s cocktails, like the flirty Liquid

pattern (black and white Balinese

www.wretreatbali.com

In the day it feels fresh and

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

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PROFILE&PORTRAIT

MADE IN BALI WE CAUGHT UP WITH THE WOMAN BEHIND THE WELL-KNOWN MADE’S WARUNG TO LEARN ABOUT HOW IT HAS EVOLVED FROM ITS HUMBLE BEGINNINGS, BACK WHEN KUTA WAS JUST A SLEEPY BEACHSIDE VILLAGE.

Bali & Beyond (BB): Made’s Warung

Western-style breakfasts. Japanese

Warung were mostly locals. But

has become a Balinese institution,

people asked for and showed me

as travelers came to the area, they

meaning most people are familiar

how to make sushi and sashimi.

would come to have their tubruk

with it. We always see it crowded

So I adapted the menu to make it

coffee fix and gado-gado.

with diners – can you tell us how it

truly international, offering everything

all began?

from gado-gado to sushi.

Made Masih (MM): The first Made’s

BB: Have you had to adjust the

Warung was a little roadside stall

BB: What did Kuta look like back in

patrons?

in the 60’s run by my grandma

the 60’s?

MM: Over the years the menu has

and my mother and assisted by the

MM: When Made’s Warung

expanded but the Indonesian dishes

daughters. As the oldest daughter

started around 1969, Kuta was a

have never been adjusted to the

in the family, I helped out at the

sleepy little village. The first Made’s

foreign palate. Indonesian food is

Balinese warung after school. From

Warung was, and still is, in the

supposed to be spicy, and sambal,

there, I slowly changed the warung

goldsmith village ‘Banjar Pande

or chili sauce, is very important. To

to make it a more suitable eatery for

Mas.’ Back then, most people in

change things would do no justice

foreigners. The concept of people

the area were making jewelry

to the flavors of Indonesian food

eating together in an environment

and some were fishing to make a

and wouldn’t help to showcase

that is casual and friendly is very

living. Then along came the tourists

the enormous variety of local food.

much part of the Indonesian warung

and the surfers. They came to

philosophy, so we didn’t change that.

Kuta for the laid-back life, where

BB: What are your thoughts on

We just added a bit more variety to

accommodations were still very

“Bali Belly?”

the menu. Surfers introduced jaffles,

basic hostels built with bamboo.

MM: Bali Belly is more of a problem

an Australian grilled sandwich.

for foreign visitors, especially in the

Other people asked for fruit salads,

BB: Who were your target customers

early days of Kuta. In the late sixties

and then came pancakes (which

back then?

and seventies, people would visit

are still a best seller to this day) and

MM: The customers of Made’s

from Western countries where food

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BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

PHOTOS COURTESY OF MADE’S WARUNG

flavors since foreign tourists became


products and the environment were

transport need to be attended to

from all over Indonesia and abroad.

much cleaner. They had a lower

sooner rather than later. But Balinese

From the President of Indonesia to

tolerance. It doesn’t mean that the

family life, with all its ceremonies, has

rock stars like Mick Jagger, to movie

local people never got sick, just a lot

not changed much. Just more mobile

stars and politicians, the list is too

less. Nowadays, refrigeration and

phones and fancy sunglasses.

long to mention them all.

the old days. However, it is not only

BB: There are currently only

BB: What are your personal all-time

a Bali problem – I once had dinner

two Made’s Warung locations, one

favorite dishes?

at a famous Japanese restaurant and

in Kuta and one in Seminyak. Do

MM: My favorite dishes are our nasi

felt sick as a dog after!

you have any plans to add more in

goreng and nasi campur!

supplies are much cleaner than in

the future? BB: Bali has developed rapidly,

MM: We are always looking for

BB: And lastly, which Indonesian

especially around your two

opportunities, but more in the

dishes do you think have the

restaurant locations. Could you

franchising area. Many entrepreneurs

potential to become popular

share your thoughts on this?

have shown interest, but until now

internationally, the way sushi

MM: Bali, in particular the Kuta area,

we have not made a final decision to

has become popular outside

is developing in such a fast and

expand. The door is still open.

of Japan?

uncoordinated way that the future

MM: Satay and nasi goreng

looks very questionable. Traffic and

BB: Who have been some of your

are already on some restaurant

oversupply of accommodations are

most memorable guests?

menus around the world. So I think

rampant. Road systems and public

MM: We have had many guests

those will be the ones to catch on.

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

39


INVITE&INDULGE

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Clockwise from top: The reception area of Cocoon Medical Spa, a spiral staircase leading to the second floor, the Salt Room with walls made of Himalayan salt blocks

GOLDEN GLOW EVERY PERSON’S SKIN IS DIFFERENT, AND SOME TAKE TO CERTAIN TREATMENTS BETTER THAN OTHERS. BUT IN MY PERSONAL BOOK, THE 24 CARAT GOLD FACIAL AT COCOON DEFINITELY TAKES THE CAKE.

I

’m going to come clean here

feel refreshed post-treatment. But if

– for someone who delights

someone were to ask me, “Doesn’t

in trying out different facial

your skin feel super elastic and look

treatments that incorporate all

brand-new?” I would probably just

kinds of ingredients, I can be

smile politely, all the while thinking,

rather skeptical when it comes to their supposed benefits.

Deep down, I do believe that my

Don’t get me wrong, there’s

skin is benefiting from the treatments.

no denying that I almost always

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

“Yes, if you say so.”

But on the surface I usually don’t

41


the word “Medical” in it. Call me

head aluminum instrument is used

is, until my most recent “spa-capade”

crazy, but I had images of Lindsay

to deeply exfoliate, all the while

at the Cocoon Medical Spa.

Lohan’s misshapen face floating in

improving the texture of the skin.

my head. I simply did not know what

It feels a bit like a strong vacuum

to expect.

being pulled across various parts

With the very first step of my treatment, I could already feel a noticeable difference in my skin.

I soon found that there was little

of your face; I found this neither

And when I met up with a couple

to no reason for worry. After politely

pleasant nor uncomfortable (but

friends later that night – bare faced

passing on their recommendation of

those with sensitive skin might want

and a bit sweaty – I couldn’t believe

Colon Hydrotherapy (“It’s one of our

to double check during consultation).

my ears when one exclaimed,

most popular treatments!”) and doing

It was after this first step that my face

“What did you do to your face?”

a brief consultation with Dr. Jeanny

felt surprisingly baby-soft.

while the other commented matter-of-

Kusumawati, I settled on a variation

factly, “Your skin is glowing.”

of the 24 Carat Gold Facial.

After the microdermabrasion comes the LED Red Light Therapy, but I went with the No-Needle

NOTHING TO FEAR

ALL THAT SPARKLES

Mesotherapy. A special tool was

Earlier that day I had walked into

What does a 24 Carat Gold Facial

heated up to push nutrients into the

the Cocoon Medical Spa feeling

entail, you might ask? It starts with a

skin (in my case, Vitamin C), and

anxious (read: terrified), mostly due

Diamond Microdermabrasion, which

then it was cooled down and used

to that fact that the name contained

is a process where a diamond-

again to seal the nutrients in.

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BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

SERUM PHOTO BY MUTIA ADISOMA ALL OTHER PHOTOS BY ARIKO AHMAD

notice too much of difference. That


GO FOR GOLD It is said that Cleopatra slept in a pure gold mask every night, believing it was the secret to her flawless skin. According to Cocoon, gold is revered for its beautifying and healing properties, and its ability to conduct energy makes it a perfect tool for strengthening skin and slowing down the effects of aging. If you had told me this prior to my actual experience I might have been skeptical, but seeing the results made me a believer. My friend only reinforced this belief when she saw me again two days later and said, “Really… your face looks so good. How much was that treatment?”

Top: The chic second floor lounge area of Cocoon Medical Spa

Cocoon’s luxurious 24 Carat Gold Facial goes for Rp. 1,000,000++, but each individual

Bottom: Cocoon’s own Liquid Gold face serum featuring 24 carat gold leaf

step of the facial can also be purchased ‘a la carte’. It is advised not to be in direct sunlight for 24 hours after the treatment, so make sure to factor this into your plans. Visit Cocoon’s website to learn

Rounding out the treatment, a 24 Carat Gold Collagen Serum was

going to disappear into my skin. I also took home a Gold Collagen

about their package deals and their various face, body and wellness

applied to my skin, followed by a

Mask, which I applied to my face

treatments.

24 Carat Gold Moisturizer. This is

later that night for about 30 minutes.

By Mutia Adisoma

what I found the most fascinating –

Peeling the mask off my face, my

seeing the container of clear serum

skin looked dewy and radiant – so

Cocoon Medical Spa

with its many sparkling flecks of gold

much so that I put the mask back on

Jalan Sunset Road, Legian

catching the light. It was hard to

in hopes of reaping optimum benefits

(0361) 847-5997

believe that those gold flecks were

from the “magical” mask.

www.cocoonmedicalspa.com

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

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Here’s a snap of Pura Jagad Nata in Denpasar. We were mesmerized by the intricate stone carvings on the gates of this very important temple!

We stumbled upon a dance recital taking place in the outdoor bale near Pura Petitenget. Among the dances that the students were tested on were the Tenun dance and the Legong Keraton dance.

44

The itty bitty Buzz Cafe sits unassumingly on one side of Jalan Raya Sem inyak and serves this lovely lime, lemon and mint ice-blended drink. It’s our new favorite post-sh opping refreshment!

This great little shop in Ubud sells hand made jams and salts. How cute is that? It’s called Kou, and the salted caramel jam BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014 is absolutely to-die-for.

PURA JAGAD NATA, BUZZ CAFE & BALI SAFARI PHOTOS BY MUTIA ADISOMA, MANTRA PHOTO BY AGUNG PARAMESWARA ALL OTHERS BY ARIKO AHMAD

SIGHTS&SOUNDS

Our cork board of photos, quotes and fun facts that we picked up while exploring in January and February...


Here is the Bali Safari & Marine Park‘s new General Manager, Wi lliam Santoso. He looks like he’s settling quite well into his new role, righ t?

Check out all the happy fam ilies! So many had little ones animals in tow during our visit in Fe bruary.

Some rather sp ooky advice Pa k Putu, our guid watch your mo e at WakaLandC uth in Bali. Be ruise: “Always careful of what people who wi you say becaus ll hear it... if yo e it won’t be jus u know what I t mean.” BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

Wise words to live by, spotted among the shrubs in a corner of Seminyak’s Mantra Kitchen & Bar. 45


REST&RELAXATION

THE RECENT ROOM RENOVATIONS AT THE FOUR SEASONS RESORT AT SAYAN ARE THE PERFECT MIX OF MASCULINITY AND FEMININITY, AND THEIR SUITES AND VILLAS WILL MAKE YOU WISH YOU COULD COME HOME TO THEM EVERY DAY.

F

rom afar, it looks a bit

took place last year. Having asked

like the mothership has

to take a casual peek at the rooms

landed in the middle of

after a lunch meeting at the Riverside

the jungle and nestled

Café, we could not believe our eyes

itself comfortably into

when we found ourselves face-to-

the foliage. Interestingly enough,

face with such stylish décor. We had

the two disc-shaped floors of the

no idea this had been hiding in the

main building do not look too out

lush forests of Sayan, just minutes

of place. Protruding from within the

away from Ubud!

greenery and facing a valley, the structure has been expertly designed

SPIN DOCTORS

to look at one with nature.

Behind the renovation is Tokyo’s

We have been itching to share

renowned Design Studio SPIN, the

this property with you ever since we

same folks behind the sleek and

learned of the room renovations that

sophisticated Sundara Restaurant

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BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

PHOTOS COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI AT SAYAN

MODERN FLAIR


Clockwise from left: Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan seen from above, the bedroom of the Duplex Suite has a balcony view, the living area of the Duplex Suite

of the Four Seasons Resort Bali at

the bathroom the color palette

Jimbaran Bay.

is dominated by emerald green,

Making your way through the

crimson and burnt sienna. But

rooms you’ll notice the interior

the showstopper is definitely

strikes a perfect balance between

the intricately carved wooden

male and female aesthetic. The

headboard above the bed.

handsome teak furniture boasts

When we first saw the bed

mother of pearl details and in

we desperately wished we could transport it to our own home and wake up in it every single day for the rest of our lives. Once those gushing feelings had subsided a bit, we took a closer look and found that the carvings actually represent the silhouettes of trees and birds in the forest, and the entire headboard is set against a traditional ikat fabric background. On top of that, there is a light that can be switched on so that a warm glow emanates from within the carved out sections of the headboard. For their first hotel room makeover, it is obvious that SPIN have knocked this project out of the park. You can enjoy their designs in all 18 suites and 42 villas at the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan.

“A PIECE OF THE CITY” We like to refer to their suites as “a piece of the city,” because the split-level room looks like a dream pad in the middle of a metropolitan area that has come to life. The only difference is that when you step out onto the balcony, instead of honking traffic you hear the gushing Ayung

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

47


THE VILLAS FEATURE THE SAME AMENITIES AS THE SUITES AND MORE. THE BEAUTIFUL BEDS COME WITH DREAMY SHEER-WHITE CANOPIES AND THE BEDROOM IS MUCH MORE SPACIOUS.

River, and instead of pedestrians you

and wooden statues tucked into

as high as the top floor. Through

see coconut trees.

nooks in the wall. Descend the

those sliding doors is a balcony with

staircase and you’ll see the bed with

your own personal daybed, and

a perfect loft apartment. Upon

that beautiful headboard tucked

next to the bedroom is the spacious

entering, you’ll find the living area

into a cozy space facing wood

bathroom with double vanities and

decorated with dark teak furnishings

and glass sliding doors that reach

an ample sized tub to soak in.

“A PLACE IN THE COUNTRY” As for the villas, they remind us of that place in the country that you want to escape to when the city grind gets to you. The villas feature the same amenities as the suites and more. The beautiful beds come with dreamy sheer-white canopies. And you’ll find that the bedroom, which comes equipped with a sitting area, is much more spacious. The main living room is outdoors facing the private plunge pool and the poolside daybed. There is also

48

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

TOP PHOTO COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI AT SAYAN, BED PHOTO BY MUTIA ADISOMA, ALL OTHERS BY ARIKO AHMAD

The suites are reminiscent of


Clockwise from top left: Their grandest accommodation is the Royal Villa, tasty welcome snacks of mini gado-gado and smoked salmon, the beautiful wood carved headboard, a patio overlooking Ayung River, Ayung Terrace Restaurant

an outdoor shower option and a sizable garden area. Our one-bedroom villa had such a gorgeous view of the valley that we could not bear to leave it for breakfast. Dining poolside, we opted for the Eastern options on the menu – the Japanese breakfast and Korean breakfast – and we were as happy as a clam with our choices. The gigantic breakfast of exotic flavors is the perfect way to start a full day of activities in the Ubud area. That is, after taking a morning dip in the plunge pool of course. By Mutia Adisoma Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan Banjar Kutuh, Sayan, Ubud (0361) 977-577 www.fourseasons.com/sayan

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

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HUMANS CAN’T HELP BUT LEAVE A FOOTPRINT, OR IN SOME CASES, A LITTER PRINT. WHAT CAN WE DO TO HELP PRESERVE BALI’S BEAUTY?

B

Bali’s beaches each day. Beachfront

international spotlight,

hotels also regularly put in muscle,

enjoying media

enlisting the help of their staff and

attention when it wins

volunteers to keep their stretch of

awards and is voted the

coastline as beautiful as possible.

best tourist destination in the world.

However, litter can still be found on

This kind of attention is great for

Bali’s shores, and it is especially

enticing more and more tourists to

apparent during the rainy season.

visit the wonderful and unique island. But the rapid development on the

THE SOLUTION?

island has been followed by a fair

Like a Band-Aid on a broken leg,

share of environmental concerns.

these beach cleaning efforts can

Those who truly care about Bali

be thought of as doing very little to

and its waters are not turning a

effect a long term cure. In fact, some

blind eye – large companies such

even view the beach cleaning as

as Coca-Cola Amatil Indonesia,

counterproductive, because it can

Quiksilver and Garuda Indonesia

give the impression that the rubbish

have responded by staging events

is just an anomaly.

to draw worldwide attention to the

It is absolutely necessary to have

issues such as the annual ‘Bali Big

a beginning-to-end trash disposal

Eco Weekend,’ which the Governor

system put in place. On top of that,

of Bali and other tourism dignitaries

childhood and adult education on

have endorsed and attended.

proper trash disposal should be

Those same three companies have

mandatory. Some people have never

even bought tractors, beach cleaning

been educated to understand that

machines, trash cans and trucks, and

there is a difference between banana

hire almost 100 staff to clean up

leaves and plastic bags, so they just use what’s readily available. Plastic certainly meets that requirement, and they treat it like a banana leaf as well.

50

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

ILLUSTRATION BY INDRASWARI IQBAL

PONDERINGPOINT

SAVING PARADISE

ali is often in the


NO PLASTIC BAGS

TAKING ACTION

Aside from the large companies,

At a local Balinese level, a bright and

private individuals and business

shining example of hope exists in

if every village in Bali formed such

enterprises in Bali have also taken

Perenanan, just north of Echo Beach.

a group? From the beaches to the

In 2011, Mr. Putu Winangun

midlands to the mountains… Are

on educational and trash recycling

those who violate them. Just think of what would happen

initiatives. One such effort is the Bye

and 30 others from Desa Perenanan

you thinking what I’m thinking? For

Bye Plastic Bags project, initiated by

established their own NGO called

starters, no more unsightly debris

two girls named Melati and Isabel.

Pereranan Gumi Lestari. Their

on Bali’s beaches during the wet

primary focus is to preserve and

season. To find out more about

friends, Bye Bye Plastic Bags is

Together with their families and

reclaim the beauty of their village

Pereranan Gumi Lestari go to

working to gain 1 million signatures

by cleaning up their rivers, villages

www.pererenangumilestari.com.

for their petition to ban plastic

and beach areas and installing trash

By Ben Silver

bags in Bali. Governor Pastika has

cans around their villages.

promised this group of children that

This is followed up with formal

if their petition is a success, he will

and informal education programs,

ban the manufacture, distribution

recycling programs, river restocking

and use of plastic bags in Bali. To

(fish and shrimp) and above all

sign the petition to ban plastic bags

enforcement of their environmental

in Bali go to www.facebook.com/

rules by arresting and reprimanding

byebyeplasticbags.

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

51


FOTOFOLIO Bugis boats in West Bali

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BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014


DISCOVER INDONESIA David Metcalf is an avid traveler and photographer who spends most of his time exploring the wonders of the Indonesian archipelago. He has a particular fascination with indigenous cultures, and he and his wife (travel writer Stephanie Brookes) have a book that will be released this month called Indonesia’s Hidden Heritage – Cultural Journeys of Discovery, which will be available for purchase at Periplus and Gramedia outlets and via David’s website www.davidmetcalfphotography.com. David runs photography tours in Bali (and abroad) as well as half and full day workshops in the Ubud area, supporting many of the communities that he travels to through education and health initiatives. Learn more about his upcoming ‘Beautiful Bali Photo Tour’ from April 13 - 19 and ‘Borneo Photography Tour’ from May 26 - June 3 by emailing davidmetcalf3@mac.com.

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

53


Above: Orangutans from Central Kalimantan Right: The green hills of Sumba island

54

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014


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BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014


Fun in the rice ďŹ elds of Jembrana Regency in Bali

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

57


The smiling kids of Mules island in Flores

58

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014


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BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014


Clans face off at the West Sumba Pasola Festival

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

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LITTLELOVES

FRESH ORGANIC FARE 62

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014


GO INTO THE GARDEN, PICK YOUR INGREDIENTS, AND THEN SIT BACK AND ENJOY THE VIEW WHILE YOUR MEAL IS PREPARED FOR YOU AT SARI ORGANIK.

I

bent down over the masses of

garden and set about picking not

green leaves protruding from

only strange shaped salad leaves but

the raised garden beds and

also young red shoots growing from

tried to decipher which one

trees along the pathway. “These

was iceberg lettuce and which

are all edible and delicious,” he

one was romaine, the only two

explained as he plucked the leaves

lettuce varieties I am familiar with. I

and added them to the basket.

had chosen the Sari Salad from the

With the help of the lovely

menu, which said “Pick your own

Balinese full-time gardener and

salad in our garden.” I stood musing

keeper of this expansive garden,

over the strange green curly leaves

my little basket was soon full with a

that resembled elephant ears for

variety of greens. I was excited to

another moment, and then gave up.

sit down back at my table and have

I came back to the kitchen with

it all presented to me with my main

one tiny tomato and said, “This

dish of homemade pasta and pesto.

is all I could recognize in your garden, can someone help me pick

FOLLOW THE TRAIL

my salad?” After great squeals of

To get to Sari Organik is a bit of a

laughter a friendly young waiter

mission, as it is an 800-meter walk

guided me back to the organic

along a narrow and almost hidden

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The fresh fare at Sari Organik. Don’t forget to try one of their delicious juices!

My friend from Sydney was also with me that day and it was the first time she had ever seen rice growing in fields. It turned out to be the highlight of her 3-day trip to Ubud.

STRETCH OUT & ENJOY Arriving at Sari Organik calls for a juice, as the walk is quite hot and there is no shade along the path. Try the Turmeric and Aloe Vera blend for Rp. 25,000 (what a bargain!). The Green Cleanser is also very concrete pathway that originates

watch the farmers slashing the rice

apple, celery, lemon and honey.

from the center of Ubud. Just walk

stalks with huge machetes and

It doesn’t bust the budget and the

from the Ubud Palace towards

threshing the rice. In the same field,

choices are all super healthy.

the Campuhan Bridge and keep

watch the village ladies bagging it

asking locals along the way until

up into the large white rice sacks

Restaurant is an outdoor nature

you eventually find your way to the

that eventually get loaded onto

experience, as the restaurant is

entrance, which is on the rise just

the back of a motorbike. There is

perched right in the rice fields with

before the hill going down to the

also a weighing man at the end of

views of three massive volcanic

bridge. Look for the small sign in a

the lane.

peaks that can be seen from time

cluster of other signs. Ever wanted to see rice farmers

I found this slice of traditional village life fascinating to watch,

Having lunch at the Sari Organik

to time as the clouds peel off the mountain tops.

close up, going about their daily

and for a city slicker like me, I was

After stretching out on a large

toil? Along the small trail you can

mesmerised by the whole process.

purple day cushion and admiring

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64

BOTTOM PHOTO ON OPPOSITE PAGE BY STEPHANIE BROOKES ALL OTHERS BY JEAN-MANUEL NADEAU

tempting – a mixture of broccoli,


the rice field views fanning to my left and to my right, I decided on my main course of Pesto Pasta. One of the most popular choices on the menu is the Vegetarian Kebab with tofu, tempeh, zucchini, mushrooms and peppers. However, if vegetarian is not your thing, there are lovely tuna and chicken dishes on the menu as well. I would put this restaurant at the top of your Ubud list of things to do because you not only get to enjoy beautiful and fresh energy-boosting organic food, but from near the center of town you get a taste of rural Balinese life and a sample of

a slower pace of life as you wander through the rice fields to reach your destination. By Stephanie Brookes Sari Organik/ Warung Bodag Maliah Subak Sok Wayah, Ubud (0361) 972-087 www.sari-organik.com

Bookings are advisable. The restaurant is very popular, and somehow, everyone hears about it even though it is way off the beaten tourist path. If you plan a late lunch (after 1:30 p.m.), the walk is a bit cooler. Little artist shops can be found along the way, so plan to take your time along the 800 meter stretch.

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ACTION&ATTRACTION

JOURNEY TO THE HEART OF BALI TAKE A STURDY LAND ROVER INTO THE HEART OF BALI FOR A FULL-DAY ADVENTURE WITH WAKALANDCRUISE.

T

he phone rang and

were on a busy road filled with trucks

it was our guide and

and buses heading towards the

driver, Pak Putu, telling

Gilimanuk Port, and the next minute

us that he had just

we were in the middle of a serene

arrived to pick us up.

Balinese village. It was truly magical.

As he led us to an impressive 1995

As Pak Putu maneuvered the big

Land Rover Defender parked just

Land Rover effortlessly, we entered

meters away, a feeling washed over

a shady and narrow road. At the

me that we were about to embark

end we came to our first stop – Tegal

on a great journey. So armed with

Jadi Village. Located in this village

just a camera, a pair of flip-flops, a

is an amazing little quarry where

friend, the big 4x4 and our driver

time seems to have stood still for

is amazing about this is the fact

and guide, we began the first leg of

centuries.

that the villagers can do this while

our journey.

For generations, the villagers

balancing stones on their heads.

have been collecting stone known

From the quarry we headed

VILLAGE VISITS

as paras out of the riverbeds using

further west towards Malgunung

Heading towards Tabanan, we

basic traditional methods. These

Village to visit a traditional Balinese

crisscrossed through the busy main

stones are quite special, as they are

family house. As soon as we arrived,

road of Jalan Raya Gilimanuk

used to build temples and shrines all

Pak Made, the owner of the house,

and then made a left turn down a

across the island.

took us on a tour of his family

small village road where the scene abruptly changed. One minute we

To get to the quarry you must go down makeshift dirt steps. What

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compound that had been lived in for generations. This house was a great


Clockwise from top: A friendly lady waving at us from her ower farm, one of Tegal Jadi’s villagers cutting paras stone from the riverbed, Ibu Nyoman of Tegal Jadi Village balancing 15 kgs worth of paras stones on her head, the door of a WakaLandCruise Land Rover, delicious traditional Balinese snacks, Pak Made showing us his family compound, the sturdy WakaLandCruise Land Rovers

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67


Clockwise from left on this page: The view of Jatiluwih in Tabanan, the beautiful Bamboo Forest Restaurant, cute table settings at Bamboo Forest

JATILUWIH IS A SEA OF LUSH RICE TERRACES RECOGNIZED BY UNESCO IN PRESERVATION OF THE TRADITIONAL BALINESE IRRIGATION SYSTEM CALLED ‘SUBAK.’

UNESCO in preservation of the

concept of families living together

traditional Balinese irrigation system

in a complex of buildings with

called subak. Before going on this

everything they need (vegetables,

trip I had done some research and

fruits, livestock, etc.) right in their

reviewed photos of Jatiluwih, but

backyard.

nothing compares to seeing this jaw-

After the short tour we were served coffee and tea with a side of

dropping view with your own eyes. Continuing our journey to our

cutlery. The restaurant is perfect for a romantic getaway or a private

triangular shaped Balinese snacks

lunch spot, we went off-roading

made of corn flour and brown sugar.

into a forest with giant bamboo

They were so good that I just had to

and fern trees. At the end of it was

THE LAST LEG

take some for the road.

WakaLandCruise’s Bamboo Forest

Ending this memorable trip was a

Restaurant. Having a delicious

visit to one of the nine Kayangan

SEA OF GREEN

buffet lunch at this quaint open-air

Jagat – the directional temples that

As I munched on my snack we

restaurant in the middle of a forest

protect Bali from evil spirits. As we

embarked on the third leg of the

is a really unique experience. The

entered the Batukaru Temple vicinity,

journey, and I saw one of the most

atmosphere is so serene and quiet

I could feel the atmosphere oozing

breathtaking views I have ever

that the only things breaking the

with sacredness. It sent shivers down

seen in Bali. Jatiluwih is a sea of

silence are the sounds of chirping

my spine.

lush rice terraces recognized by

birds and the muffled clanking of

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holiday trip for the family.

During our visit there happened

PHOTO OF IBU NYOMAN COURTESY OF WAKALANDCRUISE PREVIOUS PAGE PHOTOS BY ARIKO AHMAD

example of the Balinese architectural


TRAVEL TESTIMONIES Some other travelers went on the same journey as us with WakaLandCruise, so we asked them what they thought about the tour.

Clockwise from top: The main area of Batukaru Temple, villagers performing a ritual, ladies carrying offerings after a ritual ceremony

“The spot for the restaurant is amazing! It really is more than just a spot!” - Christine from The Netherlands

“It’s such a great tour! It’s a good way to see a lot of amazing things in Bali, all

to be a ceremony in progress, where

I must say that this tour was one

a nearby community collected holy

of the best ones I’ve ever had the

water for a blessing ritual back at

pleasure of experiencing. I’d be

their village. Luckily the ceremony

willing to go again in a heartbeat,

was small enough that we were

and it seems I’m not the only one,

able to witness the ritual in close

as I was told there have been many

proximity. It was really beautiful and

return visitors on this special journey

felt so different compared to other

into the heart of Bali.

ceremonies I’ve seen. Somehow

By Miko Harada

in one go.” - Guido & Justine, first time visitors to Bali from Switzerland

this one felt more special. It was either that, or I was delirious from

WakaLandCruise

breathing in the super fresh air all

Jalan Imam Bonjol 467, Denpasar

day long (instead of the fumes from

(0361) 484-085

driving my scooter around Kuta)!

www.wakahotelsandresorts.com

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69

“I think it’s very lovely, especially for a Bali first-timer like me” - Birgit from Denmark


BEYONDBALI

MYSTICAL LOCKS LEGEND HAS IT THAT THE CHILDREN WHO GROW DREADLOCKS IN WONOSOBO ARE DESCENDANTS OF FOUNDER KI KOLODETE, AND EXTRA CARE MUST BE TAKEN BEFORE THEY CAN GET THEIR HAIR CUT. 70

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014


Above: A group takes dreadlock clippings to the middle of a lake to release into the water Right: A small child gets her dreadlocks cut at a ‘Ruwatan’ ceremony

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

71


T

his ritual happens once a year in the highlands of Wonosobo, a township in Central Java with its name derived from the

Javanese word wanasaba, meaning ‘a gathering place in a forest.’ According to the legend, there was once a powerful figure named Ki Kolodete, one of the three founders of Wonosobo who vowed to not shower or cut his hair until he succeeded in bringing prosperity to the town. After his passing, a

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some of the children would grow

PREPPING FOR ‘RUWATAN’

be cut, the children put in their

dreadlocks with no explanation.

Foremost among the delicacies

requests. It is believed that these

Sometimes a few of the children

that must be cooked and prepared

requests are being sent from mystic

experience high fevers before their

before ruwatan is the white rice

world, so no matter how strange or

hair strands start to tangle and fuse

tumpeng adorned with fruits

odd, the requests must be fulfilled.

together.

and vegetables. The tumpeng

They as for such things as small

symbolizes a head while the

bills, umbrellas, a chicken, goats or

special and even believed to possess

fruits and vegetables symbolize

something as ordinary as traditional

supernatural powers. For this reason,

the dreadlocks. Also prepared

snacks. The elders are convinced

a specific ritual known as ruwatan

are bekakak chicken, an array

that if any of the requests are

must take place in order to cut

of traditional snacks and sweets,

denied there will be a catastrophe,

and return these dreadlocks to the

sweetened and unsweetened coffee

because the ritual will be imperfect

universe.

and tea, basil seeds, milk and jawut.

or incomplete.

phenomenon began to occur where

These children are considered

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

Before their dreadlocks can

73


PEOPLE CAN BE SEEN LINING UP ALONG THE SIDE OF THE STREET FROM AN INTERSECTION IN MARON VILLAGE ALL THE WAY TO THE RITUAL SITE AT TELAGA MENJER.

THE CEREMONY BEGINS As the sun climbs higher into the sky, the morning chill in Wonosobo recedes and the tree leaves create distinct shadows on the ground. People can be seen lining up along the side of the street from an intersection in Maron Village all the way to the ritual site at Telaga Menjer Lake. The spectators are all residents of Wonosobo and the surrounding areas – people of all ages, old

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

74


and young. They are waiting for

ceremony, eight children had their

the cultural parade, which the

dreadlocks cut – Diana Adinda, Sri

participants have been preparing for

Mawarsari, Amanda, Erfi Setyowati,

since morning.

Ismiatul Khasanah, Dewi Jeniawati,

The parade is both celebratory

Rasya and Viona Ratna Dwita. Viona

and entertaining, with participants

cried and flailed around in her seat

dressed up as giants, evil creatures

on the podium until her mother sat

and Javanese dancers. The parade

Viona on her lap to calm her down

travels for about one kilometer until

enough for her dreadlocks to be cut.

the convoy reaches Telaga Menjer,

The cuttings are placed in shiny

which is 1,300 meters above sea

brass tempayan bowls. Only the

level. Here the participants dance

dreadlocks are cut off, while the

and put on quite a show.

normal untangled hair is left to

At this particular ruwatan

continue to grow. Once the cuttings

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75

Left: A boy watches the celebratory cultural parade


Clockwise from right: Wonosobo residents, a parade participant and his prop, a child in the Ruwatan ceremony’s request for a goat

are blessed, a shaman, or dukun,

who are part of Wonosobo will then

leads the procession to the lake and

be granted good luck and good

a group takes the bowls to the center

health.

of the lake by raft to release the hair cuttings into the water. Once the hair cuttings have sunk

SEE ‘RUWATAN’ FOR YOURSELF

into Telaga Menjer, it means they

Ruwatan happens at the end of

have been returned to the universe

December. Recently it has been

and the ritual is complete. It is

turned into somewhat of a tourist

believed that all 900,000 people

attraction by the local government, hence the attendance of local officials.

INDONESIA

Even so, the sacredness of ruwatan remains intact. You will find ritual and traditional gamelan music is always being played throughout the ceremony. The Wonosobo township is a three to four hour drive away from the city of Yogyakarta.

EAST JAVA

By Taufan Wijaya

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BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

PHOTOS BY TAUFAN WIJAYA

that a local shaman always leads the


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77


CAPITALCORNER

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EXPLORING ‘KOTA TUA’ JAKARTA’S OLD TOWN, OR ‘KOTA TUA,’ EXUDES A HYPNOTIZING AND MAGNETIC APPEAL. RICH IN HISTORY, THE AREA EXTENDS FROM THE FATAHILLAH MUSEUM ALL THE WAY TO THE PORT OF SUNDA KELAPA.

T

he afternoon I visited Kota Tua, I decided to rent a sepeda onthel – a kind of vintage bicycle. Making my way from the Beos train station, my shadow moved

across the pavement as I navigated through the North Jakarta traffic. It did not take long for me to arrive at one of the oldest ports in Indonesia, Sunda Kelapa. It is the exact spot from which the city of Jakarta grew from.

CENTURIES OF TRADITION Along the canal, dozens of Phinisi sailing ships were lined up with their masts reaching towards the sky. Most of the ship workers hovered somewhere in the shadows beneath the ships, others struggling to haul

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

79


knows what would happen to our lungs,” chuckled Adi, another one of the workers.

bags of cement mix onto trucks.

FROM JAYAKARTA TO BATAVIA

Behind their long sleeves and

The existence of the Sunda Kelapa

facemasks, salty sweat dripped from

port is truly inseparable from the

their pores.

history of this great capital city. Sunda Kelapa was one of the six

Borneo and Sumatra,” said Jono,

main ports of the old Sundanese

one of the workers who has been in

Kingdom, where early traders from

the shipping industry for 15 years.

abroad would come ashore. For

“If the weather is bad, sometimes the

a long time, the Portuguese had

ship must return to Jakarta.” His face

a stronghold on the port, until a

was almost completely covered in

the air heavy with a feeling I can

Muslim leader from the Sultanate

cement dust.

only describe as a mix of tradition

of Demak named Fatahillah

and glory.

conquered it in 1527 and renamed

I was curious about this world, so I made my way into the belly of

Cement dust particles floated

it ‘Jayakarta.’

one of the Phinisi ships. I walked

throughout the room, visible in the

carefully atop a wooden plank,

rays of sunlight that entered through

East India Company) took over

doing my best to keep my balance.

crevices in the roof. The stuffy air

Jayakarta under the command of

Through the door at the end of the

began to smother me. “That’s why

Jan Pieterszoon Coen, renaming it

ship I entered, and inside I could feel

we wear masks here. If not, who

‘Batavia.’

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In 1619 the VOC (Dutch

PHOTOS BY YOPPY PIETER

“These products will be sent to


Clockwise from right: In the belly of a Phinisi with sacks of cement mix, a line of Phinisi ships at Sunda Kelapa Port, a classic onthel bicycle, a street artist at the Fatahillah Museum, tourists biking through the Museum square

A GLIMPSE OF COLONIAL TIMES

leisurely biking around that same

I decided to explore the area

square. Most view Kota Tua as

surrounding the Jakarta Museum of

a fun place for recreation, a

History, also known as the Fatahillah

place with a historical facility that

Museum. This building was once

can provide a bit of education.

the administrative headquarters of

However, there is still great room

the VOC and the location of the

for improvement to make the area

office and residence of the Governor

more comfortable and attractive for

General.

visitors. There have been talks of a

These days, you’ll find people

The deteriorating building, with

restoration project to help preserve

peeling paint and tree roots piercing

these structures that hold so much

through cracks, is slightly eerie. It

historical significance.

seems that time crawls by slower

Even so, the area is available for

here. Adding to the eeriness is

you to visit. Pedal an onthel bike

the fact that the tiny cells located

around the Kota Tua area, like those

below the Museum were once used

who used to do so tempoe doeloe,

as dungeons to hold prisoners.

or ‘in the good old days.’ Have a

Javanese freedom fighter Prince

glimpse of what Jakarta used to be,

Diponegoro was among those who

and be reminded of how far it has

were once imprisoned here before

come and how much it has been

he was banished to Manado.

through in order to become the

The square out front was used for

bustling capital city that it is today.

executions.

By Yoppy Pieter

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81


FEAST&FESTIVITIES

SERENE SEMINYAK Experience the serene Balinese Silent Day of Nyepi at the beachfront Anantara Seminyak Bali Resort & Spa. Their special Nyepi package allows you to stay for two nights and pay for one, and includes daily breakfast for two per day at the resort’s Wild Orchid Restaurant. Prices start from Rp. 2,850,000++ and there are limited suite allocations, so book soon! www.bali.anantara.com

COMPLETELY QUIET Enjoy the rare quietness of Kuta during Nyepi Day at the Patra Jasa Bali Resort & Villas. Prices start from only Rp. 1,999,000++ for a Deluxe Room and Rp. 2,699,000++ for a Deluxe Suite, and you’ll get a 40% discount on spa treatments, a 20% discount on food & beverage (excludes room service), free access to their kid’s club and one complimentary Tea Time, and lunch and dinner on Nyepi Day. www.thepatrabali.com

SILENCE IS GOLDEN Bali Niksoma Boutique Beach Resort is offering an exclusive package for the upcoming Nyepi celebration. Priced at Rp. 2,999,000 nett for a Deluxe Room, Rp. 3,299,000 nett for a Junior Suite and Rp. 3,599,000 nett for a full Suite, you’ll be able to enjoy this chic beachside resort from March 30 to April 1 with access to an array of complimentary services such as a set lunch and buffet dinner on March 31 as well as free use of their health and fitness facility and their beachfront split-level swimming pools. www.baliniksoma.com

Spend your Nyepi Day at the Harper Kuta Bali on their Silent Day Package, which includes a three-day and two-night stay, one buffet lunch, dinner for two on March 31, and daily breakfast at the hotel’s Rustik Bistro & Bar for only Rp. 2,008,000 nett. This offer applies to their Superior Rooms but you can get a free upgrade to a Deluxe Room depending on availability. Did we mention you’ll get a complimentary 15-minute foot massage at The Spa for two? A good deal indeed! www.harperhotels.com

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

GOOD DEAL FOR NYEPI


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83


Come to the Palloma Hotel in Kuta on April 5 and 6 for an adorable little bazaar called ‘Lapak on the Weekend.’ This fun event features the creations of Bali’s local crowd, from Indonesian snacks to fashion to home wares, and all for sale! This is a routine event held for two days every other month. There’s a possibility of a new location in the future, but make sure you don’t miss the next one at Palloma. lapakontheweekend@gmail.com

FLOWER POWER The Bali Floral Club (BFC) is holding their Bali Floral Show 2014 from March 18 to 19 at the Best Western Premier Sunset Road. The show will consist of a huge flower exhibition as well as seminars and workshops on topics such as ‘The Unique Blend of Culture and The Latest Trend.’ Indonesian floral designer Ineke Turangan will also attend the workshop as one of the guest speakers. Come and join this rare and unique event! Bali Floral Club (0361) 790-0049

GARDEN ART BIASA+ store in Seminyak is presenting its first exhibition in 2014 named “Garden of Delight,” featuring the works of Yogyakarta-based artist Arya Pandjalu. The exhibition has transformed level 2 of this newly launched store into an indoor garden with ample seating, creating a unique environment for visitors. The artwork explores the contradictory nature of the environment and urban ecology, along with how it affects our social, cultural and economic survival today. BIASA+ Jalan Raya Seminyak No. 34, Seminyak (0361) 847-5766 www.biasagroup.com

ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

COMMUNITYCALENDAR

WEEKEND BAZAAR

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SEE&SEEN

NEW MOON, NEW YEAR In celebration of the Chinese Lunar New Year, Beachwalk held a festival from January 24 to February 9 where visitors were entertained by a fun lineup that included kids’ Wushu performances, a Chinese food festival, ‘Meet the Bird Stars’ by Bali Bird Park and Chinese lion dance performances. www.beachwalkbali.com

V.V.I.P GUEST Spotted recently at the Patra Jasa Bali Resort & Villas was President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, along with the First Lady and several members of the Indonesian Cabinet. Here on official business from January 19 to 20, they had chosen this beautiful beachside resort for their brief stay. www.thepatrabali.com

SPREADING LOVE The Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa celebrated Valentine’s Day on February 14 with a visit to Yayasan Pembinaan Anak Cacat (YPAC), a non-profit learning facility for mentally and physically challenged children in Bali. Spreading love, a team from the resort came bearing boxes of foodstuffs and cooking supplies and were seen gardening with the children. www.nusaduahotel.com

Swiss-Belhotel International held a blood donation event dubbed ‘ONE LOVE’ on February 12 at the Swiss-Belhotel Rainforest on Sunset Road. The event was part of the company’s global social activities and was attended by the management and staff of all Swiss-Belhotel properties on the island. www.swiss-belhotel.com 86

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ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

GIVE LIFE


BEAUTY & BUBBLY A glamorous crowd was gathered at the ARC Women’s Health Clinic on December 11. The owners, Mr. Graham James and his daughter Sita James, greeted guests who toured the new gynecologic and obstetric facilities, and then enjoyed canapés, music and flutes of bubbly. www.arcclinics.com

BY THE GLASS On February 7 the Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort held a ‘Social Hour at The Lounge’ to introduce their new program offering premium wines by the glass from 30 partners in Asia Pacific. Guests were able to sample a selection of the Sheraton’s wine list while nibbling on artisanal cheeses and fresh-baked breads. www.sheratonbalikuta.com

RISING ABOVE On February 14, a total of 50 of Surfer Girl’s staff were spotted doing a flash mob dance in support of the ‘One Billion Rising’ international campaign. The campaign aims to end injustices and violence against women while promoting gender equality. www.surfer-girl.com

BIKINI FRIDAY February 21 saw the grand launching of SOS Supper Club’s Friday Bikini Martini party at Anantara Seminyak. Beautiful bikini-clad guests gathered for this glittering event where martinis flowed endlessly for those who adhered to the dress code! www.anantara.com

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Negara

JEMBRANA

Medewi

West Bali National Park

Pemuteran

Menjangan Island

Gilimanuk

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M

Nusa Dua

Candi Dasa

Nusa Lembongan Island

Semarapura

Nusa Penida Island

Nusa Ceningan Island

Tanjung Benoa

Sanur

Tenganan

Amlapura

Amed

Tulamben M. Agung

KARANGASEM

Besakih

Lake Batur

KLUNGKUNG GIANYAR

DENPASAR

Taman Ayun

BADUNG

Ubud

Bangli

BANGLI

M. Batur Kintamani Bedugul

Kerobokan Seminyak Legian NGURAH RAI Kuta Tuban INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Jimbaran Uluwatu

Canggu

Tanah Lot

Tabanan

TABANAN

M. Batukaru

Laker Buyan Lake Tamblingan Lake Bratan

BULELENG

Lovina

Singaraja


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Gado Gado

R

The Oberoi

Jl. Mertasari

uk

H

ra

C

H

Mercure

Rosso Vivo

C

Kuta Sea View

Road

W

H

Kuta Square

R

Gabah

Jl. Tegal Wangi

Kuta Center

Kuta beach

S

S

N

KUTA

Jl. Nakula

Jl. Plawa

Hard Rock Starbucks Jl. Pantai Kuta

H R

nset

Jl. kunti I

Jl. Su

Jl. Tangkuban Perahu

H Istana rama Beachwalk H Harris

Jl. Melasti

Legian Beach

H

Jl. Pa

dma

Amaris Legian

kuda Jl. Wer

Jl. Arjuna

Jl. Camplung Tand

Jl. Laksamana

Jl. Raya Kerobokan

LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market H S M Museum Kartika Plaza Shopping S S R Restaurant Discovery Shopping Mall V Villa CD Corps Diplomatique

H

H

The Seminyak

W Hotel

H

ix

le S

Jl. Petitenget

Jemme Cafe

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oub

Jl. D

Jl. Raya Basangkasa

Jl. Raya Seminyak

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Jl. S

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H

H

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Puri Santrian

H

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Jl. Sindu

C

Sindu Beach

CD

Bali Hyatt

C

Batu Jimbar

The Village

LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant CD Corps Diplomatique

H

H

H

Sector

Sweden & Finland Consulate

Telaga Naga

French Consulate

Sanur Paradise Plaza Suite

M Le Mayeur

Inna Grand Bali Beach

Jl. Segara Ayu

Sanur Paradise Plaza

Tuah Jl. Hang

H

CD

H

Czech Rep. Consulate

Jl. Danau Poso

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai

W

CD

Jl. Danau Buyan

Jl. Tegeh Agung

n

SANUR

Jl. Tukad Bilok

Jl.

Jl. Hang

CD Italy Consulate

Sanur Beach

Bali Galleria

S

Jl. kunti II

Istana Kuta Galleria

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apahit Jl. Maj

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E

H

Grand Nikko Bali Resort & Spa

H

nta

H

Pa

gia

t

H

en

+

H

Ayodya Resort bali

iM

+

+

S

R R +

S

Art Market

Medical Center

SAKALA

Tao Bali

Melia Bali

The Laguna

The Bay

LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant CD Corps Diplomatique

Grand Hyatt Bali

R

Museum PasiďŹ ka

H

H

Bali Collection

M

Nusa Dua Beach Westin Resort

H H

H

Club Med Bali Kayumanis Nusa Dua

H

Art Market

S

H

Melia Benoa

The Royal Santrian

Conrad Bali

H

H

H

The Oasis

Aston Bali Resort

Grand Mirage

H Novotel Bali Benoa H The Bali Khama

Ina Putri Bali

Village Market

Clinic

uda

M iray

The St. Regis Bali Resort

Jl.

Jl. W

Medical Center

Dental Clinic

Clinic

H H

H

H

Fish Market

Ramada Benoa

The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas

+

Jl. Pratama Raya

ai

a Se Nusa Du

Amanusa

H

inge

Tragia

S

i Pem

The Bale

H

Jl. P

Jl. Kurusetra

W

N

NUSA DUA

M

Jl. Pratama

Jl. Batubelig

J

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai

h Ra gura ss N l. By pa

hR

sar

Jl. Danau Tamblingan

ra

rta

gu

Me

sN

Jl.

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

as Jl. Srikandi

et Road

rata

90

ma

Jl. Suns

Jl. P

Jl. p By


BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

91


Bumbak

Canggu River

Pantai Brawa

Raya Semer Peng

uben

gan

KUWUM

ka

n

Perancak Temple

SEMER

Subaksari

Canggu SurďŹ ng

~~ ~~ ~~ ~~

To Denpasar

yan

TIBUBENENG

er

Nela

BUMBAK

wa

em

Pantai Bra

aS

~~ ~~ ~~ ~~ Canggu Beach

International Community School

To Kerobokan

Ray

CANGGU

Ke

lec

un

g

Jl.

~~ ~~ ~~ ~~

Brawa Beach

Ra

ya

Ke

ro

bo

Dukun Indah

BRAWA

UMALAS

Batub

Batubelig

elig

Gunung Tangkuban Perah

Batubelig

BATUBELIG

KEROBOKAN

H

Villa Lumbung

nget Petite

ri Mertasa

et

Bali Clinic Laksam

a

i

ana

Drupadi

SEMINYAK

aya

Bida

Su

kasa

Ay

H

yu

The Legian

Jl. R

+

Ka

S

T Petitenget Temple Petiteng

Obero

E

Basang

LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant

Jl. Raya Kerobokan

N W

R

H

W Bali

KEROBOKAN CANGGU

Warisan Australian International School

Mertanadi

~~ ~~ ~~ ~~

Batubelig Beach

u

State Prison of Kerobokan

ns

UBUD

To Kintamani

M Neka Museum

N

Jl. Sandat

W

an

Jl. Campuhan

To Payangan

KEDEWATAN

Jl. Andong

g ajen

M

Market

M

Cok Putra S wah Jl. Jemba

ede

Rai Jl. IB

ok G

T

Pusering Jagad Tample

Jl. C

R

Lamak

H

Maya Ubud Resort

Manik

Forest

Medical

nkey

+

iwa

+

Jl. Mo

LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant

Medical

Jl. Dewi Sita

SAYAN

Ganding

Ubud Palace

d

Jl. Jero

Ubu

Jl. Sugr

PENESTANAN

aya

Jl. Sand

Jl. R

M Antonio Blanco Museum

man

H

ANDONG

at

Painting Museum

Kayu Manis

TAMAN

Jl. Hano

Ay

un

g

CAMPUHAN

E S

Jl. Su

H Four Season

Jl. K

Riv

er

weta

Jl. Tirta Tam

UBUD

T

Penataran Sasih Tample

T

Keboedan Tample

Monkey Forest

T

To Denpasar

Jl. Nyuh bulan

PELIATAN

KATIK LANTANG

NYUH KUNING

M Afchaeological Museum

BEDULU

T

Elephant Cave

92

Rudana BALI&BEYOND MARCHTEGES 2014 M Museum

PANGOSEKAN

To Denpasar

To Kemenuh

TENGKULAK

To Gianyar

et

dari

Ro

ad


BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

93


INFOINDEX

AIRLINES

Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz

Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 E-mail: rtc_bali@thaimail.com

■ AIRPORT OPERATOR Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ FRANCE

■ TIMOR LESTE

■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS

Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id

Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com

■ GERMANY

■ UNITED STATES

Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369

Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com

Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id

■ ROYAL BRUNEI

■ HUNGARY

Tel: (0361) 757-292

Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: huconbali@telkom.net

Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888

■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA

■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 936-8388, Fax: (0361) 936-8383

HEALTH&MEDICAL

■ INDIA

■ GARUDA Jl. Jalan Sugianyar, 5 Denpasar

Jl. Raya Puputan 163, Renon - Denpasar Tel. (0361) 259-502/259-503 Fax.(0361) 259-505

Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807

■ ITALY

■ MERPATI Jl. Gatot Subroto Tengah, 26 Denpasar Tel: (0361) 411-364 Airport Tel: (0361) 9351-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741

■ MANDALA AIRLINES Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar, Reservation Call center 08041234567

Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org

■ JAPAN Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: denpasar@dp.mofa.go.jp

■ MALAYSIA

Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761

Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com

■ THAI INTERNATIONAL

■ MEXICO

Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141

PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com

■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT

■ QATAR AIRWAYS Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788 Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: (0361) 760-275

■ NETHERLANDS

■ ROYAL DANISH Sunset Road No. 89 Ruko Sunset Indah I Kav. 3 Tel: (0361) 821-6979, Fax: (0361) 7666-38 E-mail: danishconsbali@gmail.com

CLINIC&HOSPITAL 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515

■ SPAIN

■ BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua

Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id

Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 E-mail: espana_bali@blueline.net.id

■ BRAZIL

■ SWEDEN & FINLAND

Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 E–mail: brazilconsul@bali.net

Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 E-mail: sweconsul@yahoo.com

24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre, Dialysis Centre, Dental Centre. Kawasan BTDC, Blok D, Nusa Dua 80363, Tel: (0361) 3000-911, Fax: (0361) 3001-150

■ CHILE

■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA

Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com ■ CZECH REPUBLIC Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur.

Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: (0361) 754-457 E-mail: bali@honorarvertretung.ch

■ BRITAIN

(ARMA) Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm

■ ABIAN KAPAS Jl. Nusa Indah, East Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-176

■ ANTONIO BLANCO Ubud , Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551 open daily 8 am-5 pm

■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Pejeng, Tel: (0361) 942-352 Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays

■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends

■ GALLERY SENIWATI Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485

■ MUSEUM BALI Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar

■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.

■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended

■ MUSEUM NEKA Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm.

Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com

■ MUSEUM RUDANA Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud

■ MUSEUM SUBAK Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan

■ BIMC Hospital Kuta ■ POLAND

Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com

■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au

■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART

■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC

24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre for non-invasive and invasive cosmetic and aesthetic treatments. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 761-263, Fax: (0361) 767-701

CONSULATES

MUSEUMS

■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN

KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com

■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 40,000. No Fiscal tax-exempt to pay for Indonesian and expatriates holding KITAS for International departure. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011

Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.

■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15

Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 E-mail: consul@balipolandconsulate.com

■ SLOVAKIA

TOURIST INFO. ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188

■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL

■ THAILAND Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81,

94

■ SILOAM HOSPITALS 24-hour emergency 779-911 Jl. Sunset Road No. 818, Kuta, Badung, Bali Tel: +62-361-779-900 E-mail: info.bali@siloamhospitals.com

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

AIRPORT Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41

■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm


BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014

95


96

BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014


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