REVEALED: THE FIRST SIX LOCATIONS OF THE VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS TOUR SHOT BY STEVE MCCURRY SPECTACULAR NEW RELEASES FROM BASELWORLD 2016
HAPPY 85 TH ANNIVERSARY REVERSO!
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CRAFTING ETERNITY SINCE 1755
OV E RSE AS WO R L DT I M E
Geneva official watchmaking certification
Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Le Petit Prince”. Ref. 5009: “It is only with the heart that one can see rightly. What is essential is invisible to the eye.” These words have assumed a meaning beyond their literal sense. And when Antoine de Saint-Exupéry put them into the mouth of his little prince, he probably knew already that we need only turn our hearts to the stars in all their brilliance to recognize our dreams. Making them come true, however, calls for men with the courage of a Saint-Exupéry. By becoming a professional pilot, he not only fulfilled a boyhood dream but was also inspired by flying to write his literary masterpiece and international
bestseller, “The Little Prince”. Reason enough for IWC to honour his life’s work with the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Le Petit Prince”. The watch has a chapter ring recalling the elegantly reduced design of the cockpit instrumentation in classic aircraft. An image of the little prince, whose imagination, sincerity and openness took people’s hearts by storm, is taken up as an engraving on the back of the case. In the same way that Saint-Exupéry – pilot, poet, and pioneer – gifted the world a story that tells of human strength and goodness, IWC gives us this watch as a reminder to live out our dreams. I WC . E N G I N E E R E D FO R M E N .
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Reverso Classic Large Duoface watch Eduardo Novillo Astrada, polo Champion, Winner of the Argentine Triple Crown.
Open a whole new world
85TH ANIVERSARY p14 | Reverso Jaeger-LeCoultre
THE PAST
p10 | Bon Manufacture The story of Jaeger-LeCoultre
THE PRESENT
p18 | The Watch List Find these in-store now
I wonder
in amazement at man’s (at 4 least some men’s) pursuit for innovation, perfection and the exploration of new frontiers. The world of fine watchmaking and timekeeping is filled with the most incredible examples of ingenuity. On the cover: WATCH: JaegerMy editorship here at 24h allows me the privilege LeCoultre Reverso of being at the forefront of it and, so, provides me Tribute Gyrotourbillon Credits: Diode SA with an escape from surroundings often under siege by - Denis Hayoun @ Jaeger-LeCoultre a total lack of such ingenuity. Take the back page extract of Omega’s timekeeping proficiency at the Olympics as an example. What wasn’t included is how technology at the 1932 event catered for up to 1/10th of a second timing and the tech required included 30 high precision chronometers and one timekeeper. Fast-forward 16 years to 1948, the introduction of the photo-finish camera, which forever changed the way we watch athletics, and a further 20 years to 1968 when 45 timekeepers accompanied 8 tons of equipment to Mexico (no, not to build a giant wall, but to record 10 world records). Today the Scan’O’Vision MYRIA photo-finish camera takes 10,000 digital images per second of the finish line and Omega is able to measure the time to 1/1,000th of a second. Unreal. We celebrate a remarkable milestone along with Jaeger-LeCoultre, one of the world’s finest brands, as they commemorate 85 years of manufacturing the iconic Reverso. Imagine FINAL MOMENT p32 | On your marks... get set... TIME! Timekeeping at the Olympic Games
EDITORIAL BOARD Editor & Publisher ERIC BORNMAN eric@ballyhoomedia.co.za Creative Direction & Design STEVE MACBETH Copy Editing JULIA RICE julia@ballyhoomedia.co.za Proofreading LYNNE YATES | LOREN SHIRLEY-CARR Distribution ON THE DOT Printed by CREDA
producing an industryleading product for that long and it being but one of the long lists of achievements in your repertoire. Inspiring. Baselworld 2016 lived up to every expectation. It’s one show in the world that never disappoints – a testimony to the constant advancement of the watch industry and the incredible flow of novelties it keeps churning out. Take the Breguet on page 19 as an example; a complicated watch (it almost feels wrong even calling it that) actually developed around a predetermined sound – five new patents and six major new innovative elements, five years La Chaux-de-Fonds of research etc., etc. Then, the Roger Dubuis on page 24 is a breathtaking jewel watch that combines the apex of jewel setting functionally integrated into a complicated Swiss mechanical watch. Amazing. It’s no wonder the watchmaking centres of La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle have been declared World Heritage Sites. The two neighbouring towns in canton Neuchâtel, Switzerland were recognised by Unesco as perfect examples of the symbiosis that can be achieved between the mono-industrial manufacturing watch industry and urban development. Ingenious. The Swiss have been the pioneers, purveyors and custodians of fine watchmaking for more than two and a half centuries and I am unfortunately out of space and out of adjectives to sing its praises. Enjoy the issue.
Published by BALLYHOO MEDIA Company Reg No 2007/207595/23 14 Sixth Street, Parkhurst, Johannesburg, South Africa, 2193 PO Box 3125, Parklands, 2121 Tel: 086 111 4626 Fax: 086 670 6429
THE FUTURE
p30 | Vacheron Constantin & Steve McCurry Collaborate on a unique world travel perspective.
24H is published quarterly by Ballyhoo Media. Opinions expressed in Joburg Style are not necessarily those of Ballyhoo Media. No responsibility can be accepted for errors, as all information is believed to be correct at the time of going to print. Copyright subsists in all work in this magazine. Any reproduction or adaptation, in whole or in part, without written permission from the publishers is strictly prohibited and is an act of copyright infringement that may, in certain circumstances, constitute a criminal offence.
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RADO HYPERCHROME AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH HIGH-TECH CERAMIC. SERIOUSLY SCRATCH RESISTANT.
TIME IS THE ESSENCE WE ARE MADE OF
Various Jaeger-LeCoultre movements Right: The village of Le Sentier, Vallee de Joux where the company’s Manufacture was founded and is still based there to this day.
Bon Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre was founded
by Antoine LeCoultre in 1833
he earliest records of the LeCoultre comprising at least three classic horological family in Switzerland date from the complications, such as a perpetual calendar, 16th century, when a French chronograph and minute repeater. Huguenot named Pierre LeCoultre The Manufacture employed 500 people and was fled religious persecution in France known as the ‘Grande Maison of the Vallée de Joux,’ to Geneva. He acquired a plot of and by 1900, it had created over 350 different calibres, land in the Vallée de Joux that over time became a of which 128 were equipped with chronograph small community. When Pierre LeCoultre’s son built a functions and 99 with repeater mechanisms. From church there in 1612, the village of Le Sentier was 1902 and for the next 30 years, Antoine LeCoultre founded. The company’s Manufacture is based there to LeCoultre & Cie produced most this day. of the movement blanks for In 1833, Antoine LeCoultre invented a Patek Philippe of Geneva. machine to cut watch pinions from steel and founded a small watchmaking workshop Jaeger-LeCoultre where he honed his horological skills to In 1903, Paris-based create high-quality timepieces. watchmaker to the French In 1844, he invented the world’s most Navy, Edmond Jaeger, precise measuring instrument at the time, challenged Swiss the Millionomètre, the first instrument manufacturers to develop and in history capable of measuring the produce the ultra-thin micron, allowing for the precise movements he’d invented. manufacture of watch parts. The invention Jacques-David LeCoultre, The Millionomètre, the first was never patented, as no such system existed in Antoine’s grandson responsible for instrument in history capable of Switzerland at the time. However, its unique measuring the micron production at LeCoultre & Cie, composition was kept a closely guarded secret, used accepted the challenge, giving rise 1907 Knife or Couteau by the company for more than 50 years. to a collection of ultra-thin pocket ultra-thin pocket watch Antoine invented a keyless watch in 1847, the watches, including the thinnest in second simple and reliable winding and time-setting the world in 1907. The LeCoultre system without a key after Patek Philippe’s version of Calibre 145 set the record for the 1845. Instead, it relied on a small push-piece that world’s thinnest movement at activated a lever to change over from one function to 1.38mm thick, appearing in another. Again, the invention was not patented, pocket watches that still remain, allowing other watchmakers to quickly implement to this day, the thinnest in the system. He was awarded a gold medal for his their category. work on timepiece precision and mechanization at French jeweller Cartier, one of the first Universal Exhibition in London. Jaeger’s clients, signed a contract Vallée de Joux’s first full-fledged manufacturer, that same year under which all LeCoultre & Cie was established in 1866 by Antoine Jaeger movements for a period of and his son, Elie LeCoultre. In 15 years would be exclusive to the process they developed the Cartier. The movements were first partially mechanised produced by LeCoultre. Edmond production process for Jaeger also acquired the patent complicated movements and for the atmospherically driven so, for the first time in clock Atmos from its inventor, watchmaking history, Jean-Léon Reutter, and licensed LeCoultre & Cie began to it to LeCoultre. The collaboration manufacture calibres with between Jaeger and LeCoultre led small complications in small to the company being officially series, and in 1891 combined renamed Jaeger-LeCoultre in the the chronograph and minute year 1937. repeater complications into a Since its founding, the double complication calibre. company has produced over This subsequently led to the 1,242 different calibres, registered Edmond Jaeger 1928 Grande Complication production of grandes approximately 400 patents and pocket watch complications, or watches created hundreds of inventions.
MEMOVOX
ATMOS CLOCK
DUOPLAN In 1925, the Duoplan was created in an effort to bring together miniaturisation and precision. The fashion of the period was for small wristwatches. The Duoplan was also one of the first gem-set steel watches and, in 1929, its glass was replaced with sapphire crystal, a first in watchmaking. The Duoplan was insured by Lloyd’s of London with a special aftersales service, and a damaged movement could be replaced in a few minutes, leading Londonbased store Tyme to display in its shop window: ‘You will not have time to finish your cigarette before your watch has been repaired.’
The Atmos clock is a timepiece of near-perpetual movement needing no human intervention and almost no energy. Invented by Swiss engineer JeanLéon Reutter in 1928 in Neuchâtel, the Atmos clock has been the Swiss government’s official gift for important guests since 1950. It derives energy from small temperature and atmospheric pressure changes in the environment, and can run for years without human intervention. Wound by a capsule filled with a mixture of temperature-sensitive gases, a 1 °C fluctuation is enough to store sufficient energy to supply the clock with two days’ autonomy. Its balance, suspended from a steel-alloy wire thinner than a hair, performs two vibrations per minute; its gearing requires no lubricant. The Atmos’ gearing is known for its accuracy: the moon-phase model, for example, accumulates a one-day discrepancy only once every 3,821 years. The patents were subsequently purchased by Jaeger-LeCoultre in France 1936 and in Switzerland in 1937. The company then spent 10 years perfecting the clock before beginning to manufacture it in its current technological form in 1946.
JOAILLERIE 101 The Duoplan led to the creation in 1929 of the world’s stillsmallest mechanical movement, the Calibre 101, whose 74 original parts weighed a total of approximately one gram. In 1953, Elizabeth II of England wore a Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101 wristwatch for her coronation.
In 1950, the Manufacture released the Memovox. Its striking mechanism could be used as an alarm for waking up, appointments, timetables, etc. The first models were hand wound and equipped with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 489. In 1956, a Memovox featuring the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 815 became the first selfwinding alarm watch in history, while shortly thereafter the company marked its 125th anniversary by releasing the Memovox Wordtime. In 1959, the Memovox Deep Sea was equipped with a specific alarm to remind divers to begin their ascension, and in 1965, the Memovox Polaris was released with a patented triple case back to optimise the transmission of sound under water.
THE PAST/HERITAGE
Timepieces
FUTUREMATIC In 1951, the Manufacture released the Futurematic, the world’s first 100 percent automatic watch. It features a larger balance for improved accuracy and hacking seconds. One unique feature is a lock that holds the swinging weight in place when the mainspring is fully wound. It also features a special six hour power reserve, allowing the watch to immediately function when it is put on, rather than requiring it to be wound first.
GEOPHYSIC In honour of the International Geophysical Year in 1958, Jaeger-LeCoultre created a watch protected against magnetic fields, water and shocks intended for use on scientific bases in Antarctica. The watch was fitted with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 478BWS and featured 17 jewels, a Breguet overcoil, a regulating spring on the balance-cock, a shock-absorber and a Glucydur balance.
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Reverso Its name inspired by the Latin ‘I turn around’, the Reverso was created in 1931 as a watch capable of surviving the hard knocks of a polo game: the case can be swivelled in its carrier to protect the watch glass. Considered a classic of art deco design, the Reverso celebrates its 85TH year in production in 2016.
THE HISTORY OF REVERSO 4 March 1931, Paris (National Industrial Property Institute). At 1:15 pm René-Alfred Chauvot officially patents his invention of a ‘wristwatch which can slide on its base and flip over on itself.’ The Reverso watch is born.
It all started during the winter of 1930-1931. While travelling in India, the Swiss businessman and watch collector César de Trey attended a polo match at a club of British army officers. One of these officers, who had just broken the glass of his watch, challenged de Trey to create a watch model robust enough to resist to a polo match. César de Trey discussed the idea with Jacques-David LeCoultre, the then owner of the LeCoultre Manufacture,
who could provide the movements for the new watch. LeCoultre appointed the firm Jaeger SA for the creation of the reversible case, which in turn contracted the French designer René-Alfred Chauvot, the actual inventor of the unique slide and flip mechanism. The result was an elegant watch with a dial that could flip, protecting it from shocks while offering a case back with a generous surface that could be used for personalisation.
The original Reverso case was 38mm long, 24mm large and 6mm high, the same size as today’s Reverso Classique. The dial of the original model featured only hours and minutes hands. It was only in 1934 that LeCoultre introduced a version with a small seconds counter at six o’clock. Representing an elegant and sophisticated response to a technical challenge, the Reverso established itself as a great art deco classic constantly inspiring the watchmakers, artists and inventors of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre to reinterpret the back of the watch.
One of the rarest creations featured the portrait of a beautiful Indian lady, probably a Maharani, whose story remains one of the bestkept secrets in the history of the Reverso. From 1931, the backs of Reverso watches were personalised with engravings or enamel miniatures.
Unfortunately, after World War II, with the mode switching to round watches, the symbol of the art deco was somehow disregarded compared to previous years.
In 1985, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the first-ever waterresistant Reverso case. This required a complete makeover to offer unprecedented wearing comfort and guarantee total security in pivoting. While the first model of the Reverso comprised about 30 parts, it could only be swivelled at the far end of the cradle and it was not water-resistant, the second generation was not only waterresistant but it could also swivel at any point along the cradle. Each Reverso case now consisted of over 50 components, making it one of the most complicated cases in watchmaking. The Reverso 60ème launched the era of limited editions of Reverso models with complications. Framed by a large size 18 ct pink gold case, a solid silver guilloché dial, a power-reserve and date hand. Other 500-piece limited editions soon followed: a tourbillon in 1993, a minute repeater in 1994, a retrograde chronograph in 1996, a dual time zone in 1998 and a perpetual calendar in the year 2000 and the Duoface concept (with the back of the watch featuring a second dial although driven by a single movement) in 1994.
For its 70th birthday in 2001, the Reverso acquired an eight-day double barrel, giving it enhanced accuracy offered by teaming a highfrequency balance wheel with over a week’s running power. With its patented large date, the anniversary model offered useful functions such as time zones, day/night indication and instant power reserve.
THE PAST/HERITAGE
Luckily, an Italian watch dealer, Giorgio Corvo, noticed some unused Reverso cases at the Manufacture on a visit in 1972. He bought all of the remaining stock (200 empty cases), had movements installed and sold them all in Italy. Confident that Reverso’s relaunch would be a success, Corvo convinced the brand to use only mechanical movements in its models. Finally, in 1982 the Reverso was revived by JLC in a line of watches that housed mostly quartz movements.
The year 2006 sees the world’s first ever watch to contain three dials driven by a single movement – the Reverso Grande Complication featuring three dimensions of time: civil, sidereal and perpetual. To celebrate its 80th birthday, Reverso came out with a fresh take on the absolute classicism of its art deco lines, with the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin including two Tribute to 1931 models in honour of the very first Reverso models.
Jaeger-LeCoultre has invited a star guest to take part in the 2016 85th birthday celebration of Reverso in an ephemeral set of proposals that will be available to complement existing ones for just one year. Christian Louboutin’s shoes have been immortalised in museums, on fashion runways and red carpets the world over and this unexpected collection created is sensational.
15
Big Bang Unico Italia Independent Green Camo. Designed in collaboration with the lifestyle brand. Case crafted using green camo texalium and 18K red gold alloy. UNICO column-wheel chronograph movement. Military green chino straps stitched to black rubber. Limited edition of 250 pieces.
hublot.com
THE PRESENT/PRODUCT VACHERON CONSTANTIN Overseas Chronograph The Overseas Chronograph is equipped with a new self-winding in-house chronograph movement
18
This 263-component calibre is the result of a five-year development process that prevents any jerking of the hand when the chronograph starts. A column wheel adorned with a screw shaped like the Manufacture’s signature Maltese cross emblem is a signature feature. This movement is equipped with a twin barrel ensuring over 50 hours of power reserve. Protected from magnetic fields by a soft iron ring, it powers the hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph and date indications. These functions are all displayed on a silver-toned or blue dial. The hands and markers are coated with a luminescent material ensuring optimal readability. It comes in a stainless steel or 18 ct pink gold 42.5mm-diameter case guaranteed water-resistance to 150m, while its transparent back reveals a 22 ct gold oscillating weight adorned with a wind rose. The new stainless steel models are each delivered with an easy-fit steel bracelet along with rubber and leather straps. www.vacheron-constantin.com
BREGUET Tradition Repetition Minutes Tourbillon 7087
Today there are more timepiece styles to choose from than ever before
THE WATCH LIST
Breguet has conquered the field of acoustics with a truly revolutionary previously unmet challenge of developing a timepiece around a predetermined sound and creating an unprecedented tone
The Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087 is a collection of innovations. Breguet’s engineers experimented with more than 200,000 frequency combinations to determine the combination of notes that best met the objectives. The eventual choice guided the development and the construction of the model resulting in six new patents and five major new innovative elements never previously seen in a wristwatch repetition mechanism. The 18 ct rose gold case with double-paned sapphire-crystal case back is 44mm in and diameter houses the self-winding movement with minute-repeater and 60-second tourbillon at 6 o’clock. The 80 hours power reserve indicator sits in an aperture at 12 o’clock. It is also available in 18 ct white gold and features a leather strap. www.breguet.com www.swatchgroup.com
THE PRESENT/PRODUCT
ROLEX Air-King
Rolex’s new Air-King perpetuates the brand’s ties with aviation as well as the aeronautical heritage of the original Oyster
20
The watch’s 40mm case in steel features a black dial with large three, six and nine numerals and a prominent minute scale for navigational time readings. The dial carries the name Air-King in the same lettering that was designed specially for the model in the 1950s. It’s fitted on a solid-link steel Oyster bracelet with a folding Oyster clasp. This bracelet features the patented Easylink rapid extension system that allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5mm, for additional comfort in any circumstance. It is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100m and boasts a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. www.rolex.com
HUBLOT Big Bang Sang Bleu
Only 200 pieces of this unique collaborative piece, featuring designs by world famous tattoo artist Maxime Büchi of Sang Bleu, have been produced The 45mm diameter satin-finish and polished titanium case, with a hexagonal bezel and black dial, features geometric engraved designs taking the form of a glass and metal sculpture and evoking the harmonious and proportional relationships derived from Leonardo da Vinci’s Vitruvian Man. Its futuristic features include a black calfskin strap sewn onto black rubber strap (with the Sang Bleu logo engraved on the back), six titanium H-shaped screws, black composite resin and sapphire glass with anti-reflective treatment and a Titanium folding clasp. It’s water resistant to 100m. www.hublot.com
THE PRESENT/PRODUCT
ULYSSE NARDIN Diver Chronograph Hammerhead Shark
Since its beginnings, Ulysse Nardin has been connected to the sea. An association with the ocean’s supreme navigator, the hammerhead was inevitable
22
The Diver Chronograph Hammerhead Shark is presented as a limited edition in both stainless steel (300 pieces) and 18 ct rose gold (99 pieces). Both versions sport a deep blue dial with a signature hammerhead shark motif. The watch’s oversized 44mm case, 48-hour power reserve, screw-locked crown, pushers, solid lugs and unidirectional turning bezel make it an essential watch for ocean travel and excursions. It is water resistant to 300m. Regal red accents and luminous indexes are notable elements on the face with an azure rotor visible through the open, sapphire crystal case-back. www.ulysse-nardin.com
CARTIER Drive de Cartier
As the name suggests, the motor car has a strong presence in this watch The patterning of the guilloché dial (available in grey, black or white marked by Roman numerals punctuated with sword-shaped hands) resembles the design of a radiator grill and the winding crown is shaped like a bolt. Its 18 ct pink gold transparent case-back reveals the Manufacture movement available in two versions: hours, minutes, small seconds and date, or a second time zone, day/night indicator, large date and small seconds. This particular Fine Watchmaking version, with a flying tourbillon, is assembled and set in the Cartier Fine Watchmaking ‘Poinçon de Genève’ workshops situated on the first floor of the Cartier Boutique at 35, Rue du Rhône in the heart of Geneva delivering a watch created in accordance with the most prestigious of all watchmaking certifications. Picture: Vincent Wulveryck © Cartier www.cartier.com
THE PRESENT/PRODUCT
ROGER DUBUIS Excalibur Brocéliande
Roger Dubuis has created a trilogy of exquisite creative skeletons evoking the legendary forest of Brocéliande Ivy is a recurring theme in nature as well as in literature and mythology and in this case honours the timeless femininity of this collection. Ivy also requires a structure on which to grow illustrated here by the contemporary skeleton calibres. It is extremely challenging to incorporate such jewellery elements into a movement and especially so when dealing with genuine volumes and not just tiny decorative features. These creations enshrine the encounter between watchmaking and jewellery. The calibre comprises 179 components individually hand-finished on all faces and is graced with the sophisticated flying tourbillon. A crown decorated with rose-cut diamond, brilliant-cut Top Wesselton diamonds decorating the case, bezel, ange, clasp and ivy stems are all specifically cut to match watchmaking criteria. For the gem-set ivy ornaments, the stones are held by prongs and delicately placed on the gold-wire ivy stems, causing shimmering reflections off the metal accompanied by the very sparkle of the stones themselves. Issued in 28-piece limited editions bearing the Poinçon de Genève, these three models showcase attention to detail rarely seen, highlighting expertise, innovation and creativity. www.rogerdubuis.com
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OMEGA Seamaster Bullhead Rio 2016
Only 316 of these remarkable watches have been made available after being released exactly one year before the Olympic Games get under way.
The Bullhead Rio was released in honour of the third time that golf has been included at the Olympic Games. The blue leather strap links directly to the Rio 2016 Olympic Games logo, and features subtle stitching along each side, coloured yellow, green, red and black reminiscent the iconic Olympic rings. This colour theme is continued on the 60-minutes rotating inner-bezel, serving as a reminder of the unity and harmony that the Olympic rings signify. It also features a central chronograph seconds hand and a 30-minute recorder at 12H. The name ‘bullhead’ was originally a nickname, coined by watch collectors who admired the shape of the timepiece, and concluded that it indeed looked like the head of a bull. Built with OMEGA’s exclusive Co-Axial calibre 3113, and stamped with the Rio 2016 Olympic Games logo on the case-back, this is sure to become an instant collector’s item. www.omegawatches.com www.swatchgroup.com
BREITLING Avenger Hurricane This standout 50mm diameter with an ultra-light case made in a futuristic material named Breitlight, sports a 24-hour militarytype display movement Breitlight is 3.3 times lighter than titanium and 5.8 times lighter than steel yet significantly harder making it resistant to scratches, traction and corrosion. It is anti-magnetic, thermally stable and warmer than metal. The self-winding chronograph is certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute). Luminescent hands and numerals, thick sapphire crystal glare-proof on both sides and controls (push pieces and crown) fitted with a non-slip grip ensuring optimal handling even with gloves live up to the brands instrumentation ethos. The strap combines a yellow rubber core and sides with a high-resistance black military textile fibre exterior. It is water-resistant to 100m and features a rotating bezel with rider tabs serving to memorise times. It is very aptly named Hurricane. www.breitling.com
The LONGINES RailRoad
Longines has reissued this timepiece from the 1960s The 40mm diameter steel case houses a highly reliable automatic winding calibre produced exclusively for Longines. The off-white polished dome dial displays large black Arabic numerals – with a 0 instead of a 12 – and a 24-hour scale enhanced by black shiny lacquer hands. A minutes hand enhances the reading of the time. The back of this model shows a finely worked engraving inspired by the original decorations that adorned the pocket watches designed for railway companies in the 1920s. An elegant black alligator strap adds a touch of refinement. www.longines.com
TUDOR Heritage Black Bay Dark
A number of this new Tudor diving watch’s elements have been drawn from historic models such as the prominent winding crown from the famous 1958 Big Crown, the angular hands and the water depth engraved in red on the dial The 41mm wide steel case is finished with a vapor deposition coating directly derived from technology NASA developed for its space programmes. A high-performance calibre offers an impressive 70-hour power reserve. It is supplied with a choice of a black steel bracelet, an aged leather strap or an extra grey fabric strap. Made in the Jacquard technique according to traditional methods by a hundred-yearold family business from the St-Etienne region of France, this strap is a signature feature of TUDOR’s Heritage line. www.tudorwatch.com
THE PRESENT/PRODUCT
RADO Cat Centrix Open Heart
Rado has expanded its collection of open-heart timepieces with a collection of decorative diamondstudded ladies’ models The pieces feature the signature Rado polished high-tech ceramic elements in white or brown but are also available in more understated classic brown leather straps. The ladies’ 33mm dial is enclosed in a gold-coloured case and studded with 12 Top Wesselton diamonds. The upside-down crescent-shaped dial exposed the bottom half of the timepiece’s mechanics completely revealing the intricate decorated Swiss movement below. A stylised keyhole at noon further reveals the beating heart of the automatic movement. The two men’s models are available in 38mm diameter. www.rado.com
MICHEL HERBELIN
Newport Yacht Club Automatic The Newport Yacht Club is inspired by the portholes of a transatlantic yacht, a yachting inspired classic which combines the manufacturer’s French flair with the precision of a Swiss movement. The chronograph functions include hours, minutes, small second, date, chrono 60 seconds, 12 hours and 30 minutes counters with a tachymeter engraved on the bezel. The sizable 43.5mm diameter high-grade stainless steel case has a see-through back making the decorated movement visible. It is water-resistant to 100m. www.michel-herbelin.co.za
27
TI SS OT, A H ISTO RY O F SP ORT.
Tissot’s Role
with the RBS 6 Nations Championship, TOP14, the
The bond between Tissot and the dynamic world of
European Rugby Champions and Challenge Cups, the
sports was already forged early on. It entered the field
World Championships of Fencing and Ice hockey also
of sports timekeeping in 1938 to become a key player
entrust their timekeeping and data handling to the Swiss
in the championships.
brand.
Today, its sporting calendar unites high-profile events
As timing and delivery of competition results become
and a diverse spectrum of disciplines. In addition to
more and more complex, Tissot has succeeded in staying
its Official Timekeeping partnerships in the world
at the top of the game and provide priceless accuracy
of basketball with the NBA, FIBA and CBA; cycling
every step of the way. It has also given the brand the
with the Tour de France and the UCI World Cycling
opportunity to create multiple special editions dedicated
Championships; motorsports with MotoGPTM and
and inspired by those sports.
the FIM World Superbike Championship and rugby Timing is Critical Because timing and scoring in these sports demands supreme precision, being the Official Timekeeper is a good match for Tissot. In addition, Tissot branding is on all the timing and scoring materials and is featured with the sport’s clock on the television feed shown all over the world. The appeal of sports is in the competition, and timing is such an integral part of this that getting it exactly right, time after time, is imperative. Tissot has demonstrated its ability to provide absolute accuracy and has become a trusted partner of some of the world’s biggest sports. It’s no easy task, when athletes can be separated by only thousandths of a second at the finish line, or fencers touch a millisecond apart. But, if it was easy, every company could do it – and only Tissot is the official timekeeping partner of these sports.
It’s time to up your game. TISSOT T-TOUCH EXPERT sOLAR
tissot. official timekeeper of the nba.
NBA SPECIAL EDITION. TACTILE TECHNOLOGY POWERED BY SOLAR ENERGY, OFFERING 20 FUNCTIONS FOR EVERYDAY USE INCLUDING ALTIMETER, WEATHER FORECAST AND COMPASS.
POWERED BY SOLAR ENERGY
BOUTIQUES: PARIS — LONDON — NEW YORK — BEIJING — HONG KONG — SINGAPORE — NEW DELHI — DUBAI — MOSCOW — ZURICH
T I S S OT WATC H E S . C O M TISSOT, INNOVATORS BY TRADITION
THE FUTURE/TRAVEL
Vacheron Constantin & Steve McCurry
In order to illustrate the new overseas collection, Vacheron Constantin has collaborated with legendary photographer Steve McCurry to offer a distinctive perspective on 12 unexpected locations across the world THIS OPENNESS TO THE WORLD and spirit of travel lies at the very core of the world’s oldest watch manufacturer, founded in 1755 in Geneva. From its very beginnings, the Maison successfully established a presence on four continents and built its expansion by exploring the planet. Its archives contain historical records named ‘Rencontre’ in which sales that took place abroad were kept. Its fame has been shaped through these encounters taking place in increasingly remote locations over more than 260 years. To highlight this perspective of the world shaped by travel, Vacheron Constantin has selected legendary photographer Steve McCurry, who places the notion of humanity at the very heart of his work. Behind this partnership lies the notion of eternity, the common denominator between the photographer and the Manufacture, as much with regard to the representation of the world as to the expression of time. While Steve McCurry first and foremost dreamed of becoming a filmmaker, he ended up enrolling at the College of Arts and Architecture at the University of Pennsylvania. In order to reconcile his profession with his love of travelling, Steve McCurry decided to become a photojournalist. He began covering international and civil conflicts. Rewarded and acclaimed all over the world, his work is guided by a sense of wonderment with regard to the planet and the people he meets. The 12 rare, little-known and sometimes inaccessible sites had to capture the fundamental values of the Maison and reflect the spirit that has been driving Vacheron Constantin for more than two and a half centuries. Rigorous discipline, patience, creativity, movement, transmission and openness to the world are just some of the shared cornerstones. This odyssey began in Geneva in February 2016 and will continue across the world for an entire year. The first six locations are Geneva, China, New York City, Mexico, India and Japan.
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Overseas product pictures: ©Raphaël Creton. The Overseas Tour locations pictures: ©Steve McCurry/Vacheron Constantin
NEW YORK CITY
INDIA
JAPAN
CHINA
GENEVA
MEXICO
FINAL MOMENT/TIMEKEEPING
IN AN EVENT where a 100th of a second can mean the difference between being declared fastest man on earth or the guy that came second, timekeeping is of critical importance. Omega has a very long heritage of timekeeping at the Olympics, dating back to 1932, and are the Official Timekeepers of this year’s event. As with most track events, the 100m is started with a pistol. The use of an actual pistol has made way for a
Starter using a 1948 Racend Timer and pistol
device that is composed of a flashgun and sound generation box. When the trigger is pulled, three things happen at once: A start pulse launches the timing device; a light is emitted; and a sound is generated from each starting block as well as a set of external loudspeakers. The integration of a speaker in the starting block ensures that each athlete hears the start of the race at exactly the same time. The first measurement provided is the reaction time of the athletes. To do that, Omega developed a highly accurate starting block that detects tiny
amounts of pressure. This is also critical for catching a false start if one occurs.
False start detection system
During the race, the devices also measure wind. In the instance that a record is broken, it can only be officially registered if the wind is blowing at less than 2m per second. This, of course, doesn’t affect the race result. Finally, two systems are placed on the finish line. The photocells are called into action as soon as an athlete crosses the line, stopping the time and showing it on TV and on the scoreboard in the stadium. However, the official finish time is always measured by the MYRIA photo finish camera, which takes 10,000 images per second.
On your marks... get set... TIME!
At 22:25 on Sunday evening, 14 August 2016, the Men’s 100m final will be run. Perhaps the most famous moment of any Olympic Games 32
Finishline photo by the 2016 camera Scan'O'Vision Myria