Reference 57260 ACHIEVING UNIMAGINABLE COMPLICATION
DRIVE DE CARTIER MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT 1904 MC THE DRIVE DE CARTIER COLLECTION IS ELEGANCE REDEFINED. THE SLEEK LINES OF THIS CUSHION-SHAPED WATCH CREATE A TRULY STYLISH PIECE, BROUGHT TO LIFE BY THE MAISON MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT 1904 MC. ESTABLISHED IN 1847, CARTIER CREATES EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES THAT COMBINE DARING DESIGN AND WATCHMAKING SAVOIR-FAIRE. # W H ATD R I V E SYO U
Grand Boutique Melrose Arch +27 11 684 1380
Melrose Arch +27 11 684 1380 ∙ Sandton City +27 11 784 0047 Discover more on overseas.vacheron-constantin.com
OVE RS E A S Bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, this timepiece is the ideal companion for an extraordinary voyage that reveals a unique perspective on the world. It is the only watch of its kind.
CRAFTING ETERNITY SINCE 1755
OV E RSE AS
Geneva official watchmaking certification
ENGINEERED FOR MEN WHO KNOW THAT MOVING FAST MAKES TIME GO SLOW.
Big Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN. Ref. 5020: When Albert Einstein discovered his theory of relativity at the beginning of the last century, he also changed our understanding of time. Because he recognized that moving faster makes time slow down. His theory was proven correct for the first time in 1971. No wonder pilots had already an inkling of this feeling: after all, they also deliver the proof of their merits in a jet. It was also around this time that Top Gun, the US Navy’s elite flying school, was founded. It trained pilots who took their planes and themselves to the limit. IWC’s engineers and designers went to similar lengths during the development of the Big Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN. The
precision technology and reduced, classic design are a testament to their superiority. With its diameter of 46 millimetres and wealth of functions, it will meet the needs of even the most demanding jet pilot. But the use of high-tech materials like ceramic and titanium also underscores the watch’s dynamic character. These materials, first used by IWC in 1994, together with the mainly black design, are indicative of extravagance and pioneering spirit and symbolize the innovation to which IWC lays claim with the TOP GUN line. The watch may have catapulted itself to the top at the speed of sound. But for all those who catch a glimpse of it, time will stand still. I WC . E N G I N E E R E D FO R M E N .
J O I N TH E CO N V E R SATI O N : # B _O R I G I N A L I WC S C H A F F H AU S E N B O U T I Q U E S: PA R I S | LO N D O N | R O M E | M O S COW | N E W YO R K | B E I J I N G | D U B A I | H O N G KO N G | G E N E VA | ZU R I C H I WC .CO M
For more information please contact Elegance Melrose Arch +27 11 684 1380 | Elegance Sandton City +27 11 784 0047 | Elegance Bedford Centre +27 11 615 6602
Melrose Arch +27 11 684 1380 | Sandton City +27 11 784 0047
Reverso Tribute Calendar watch Eduardo Novillo Astrada, polo Champion, Winner of the Argentine Triple Crown.
Open a whole new world
RECORD-BREAKER
INTERVIEW
p10 | Fluent in luxe Oresti Mavrodaris of Elegance Jewellers
p12 | The most complicated watch ever made Reference 57260 by Vacheron Constantin
BRAND AMBASSADORS p18 | Mano a Mano Ryk Neethling and Chad le Clos in a timepiece face-off
THE PRESENT
p20 | The Watch List Find these in-store now 6
On the cover: WATCH: The Reference 57260 by Vacheron Constantin
We have
beyond expectation reached the end of another year in one piece and if your mind, like mine, is already halfway en route to the water’s edge, let the contents of another sterling issue inspire you. We launched 24H just over a year ago and it seems an appropriate time to thank all concerned – readers, contributors and clients alike for buying into the vision. It has been universally received as a success and I couldn’t be more pleased with our progress. The digital edition this month will feature amplified content, so check it out via our mother brand’s website, www.joburgstyle.co.za. We’re going social soon, but more about that in March. My dad always symbolically took off his watch at the start of the holidays; his way I suppose of letting go of the pressure time puts on us. The whole ceremony of then putting it back on weeks later and thus slowly getting back into first gear was lost on a kid, but I get it now.
So, unless you need your timepiece for purposes related to diving, flying, exercising or something else of recreational nature, I am going to recommend you try it. There are times when we don’t need to know the time. At the time of writing this, there was one month, 15 days, 10 hours, 49 minutes and 10 seconds remaining until 2017. Enjoy every moment of it.
FINAL MOMENT
p34 | Marie Antoinette, a Queen of Versailles A Mori Arts Center Gallery retrospective
EDITORIAL BOARD Editor & Publisher ERIC BORNMAN eric@ballyhoomedia.co.za Creative Direction & Design STEVE MACBETH Copy Editing JULIA RICE julia@ballyhoomedia.co.za Proofreading LYNNE YATES | LOREN SHIRLEY-CARR Distribution ON THE DOT Printed by CREDA
THE FUTURE
p32 | Vacheron Constantin Overseas & Steve McCurry Wave 2 The final six locations through the lens of this photographic master Published by BALLYHOO MEDIA Company Reg No 2007/207595/23 14 Sixth Street, Parkhurst, Johannesburg, South Africa, 2193 PO Box 3125, Parklands, 2121 Tel: 086 111 4626 Fax: 086 670 6429
24H is published quarterly by Ballyhoo Media. Opinions expressed in Joburg Style are not necessarily those of Ballyhoo Media. No responsibility can be accepted for errors, as all information is believed to be correct at the time of going to print. Copyright subsists in all work in this magazine. Any reproduction or adaptation, in whole or in part, without written permission from the publishers is strictly prohibited and is an act of copyright infringement that may, in certain circumstances, constitute a criminal offence.
RADO.COM
RADO HYPERCHROME AUTOMATIC DIAMONDS PLASMA HIGH-TECH CERAMIC. METALLIC LOOK. MODERN ALCHEMY.
TIME IS THE ESSENCE WE ARE MADE OF
Fluent in luxe Interview with Oresti Mavrodaris of Elegance Jewellers
What is it about the watch and jewellery industry that excites you? Lots of things. I love the creative process, putting the final detail on style and working with clients to turn their dreams into tangible realities through design. It’s also a privilege to be working with some of the world’s most covetable and iconic brands, like Cartier, Breguet, IWC, Panerai, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Omega, Blancpain, Vacheron Constantin, Longines and Montblanc – the houses we represent. Give us a rundown of a typical day in your life. No two days are the same. Some days are design days when I work with our production workshop in Bedford; others are travelling days when I attend the big international trade fairs to negotiate
How did Elegance come about? Elegance was established in 1967. Before they even really knew each other, both of my parents independently worked there during their summer holidays, before later marrying and taking over the business – and my gran was head of sales for many years. We’ve since opened in Bedford Centre, Melrose Arch and Sandton City, with the third generation of my family now serving the fourth generation of clients. What are you most proud of? To be part of a family legacy, and to position it for the next generation to take over from us. My brothers, Dino and Alexi, and I literally grew up in our stores. To be able to help grow Elegance from a neighbourhood jeweller into a multi-brand, city-wide destination jeweller that represents the world’s top houses has been one of the definitive drivers in my life. I’m part of a family and a team that has created this and I am very proud of that. Do you have a brand that resonates most with you personally? I personally resonate with all of the brands that we represent, or else we wouldn’t be selling them. Collectively, our brands have more than 2,000 years of watchmaking expertise and fine design behind them – and that’s awe-inspiring. If I wanted to treat myself to a watch today and I had R100k to spend, what would you recommend? And if I really felt special and had R1m? That all depends on the individual. The only caveat is that it needs to be original – and every house has at least one, if not more, and across all price points. My job is to be a matchmaker, connecting my client with a watch that personally resonates with him or her. It’s like buying art for your wrist – and it’s a very personal taste-driven process. But, never to worry, there’s wrist-candy for everyone. What to wear as a dress watch versus a sports/weekend watch? For men’s dress watches, it should be ultra-flat to fit under the cufflinks; I’ve seen many an otherwise perfect outfit ruined by an oversized diver’s watch. For women’s formal wear, it’s more about choosing a precious piece of jewellery that happens to tell the time, rather than wearing a watch. For weekend watches, it all depends on the weekend, and it’s very client-specific. But, we would have something for everyone – from diving to driving, dancing to fencing, beach to bush. For those who can’t make up their mind or have a wildly varied life, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas offers three different interchangeable watch-bands in steel, leather and rubber. Where is South Africa at in its understanding of luxury? It’s right up there, and it’s an ever-growing market. The past 20
years have been nothing less than revolutionary in the growth of this sector with increased globablisation reflected in inbound and outbound travel, the influx of luxury brands opening stand-alone stores, the growth of the Internet – providing a comparative eye on everything – as well as an influx of international magazine titles launching South African editions. We’re not only wired into the global creative grid, we’re also feeding it. And that’s something I find very exciting and inspiring. Our clients are fluent in luxe – and it’s a growing market. Who do you consider to be a true symbol of style and sophistication? I love people with a strong sense of individual style – and there’s no shortage of them in Johannesburg. In the wider world, Iris Apfel is a treat – I love her quirky sense of style and she’s been making waves across the interior, fashion and media worlds for more than 70 years. The work and signature of Yohji Yamamoto, who flawlessly mixes the East and West, equally inspires me.
INTERVIEW/JOBURG JEWELLER
the world’s latest and greatest collections for our clients. A lot of time is spent orchestrating our team – we see, quite literally, hundreds of clients every day, from long-standing to first-time clients. We are also enjoying a growing international client base which is wonderful. And we like to give as much individualised attention to our clients as possible. We take a hands on, make-ithappen approach to our work, and we’ll always do what we must to address our clients’ needs and desires.
“IT’S LIKE BUYING ART FOR YOUR WRIST – AND IT’S A VERY PERSONAL TASTE-DRIVEN PROCESS. BUT, NEVER TO WORRY, THERE’S WRIST-CANDY FOR EVERYONE.” Your favourite destination and why? The Maldives. Sun, sand and isolation. What’s your favourite pastime? Dreaming, planning and designing. Even when I’m relaxing, I’m working. But, that said, I’ve never seen my work as ‘work’. It’s a passion. Pet peeve? Reality. There’s usually too much in my head to address the mundane daily grind. So, I’ll have lettuce, but no dressing – or lots of dressing, but no lettuce. Grocery shopping, getting petrol and car washes, kitting out my home and laundry can drain me. I have no problem seeing the big picture, but if you come to me for dinner and ask me to pass the salt, there’s always a chance that the salt cellar – as beautiful as it is – might be empty. You’ve opened a stand-alone Panerai store in Sandton City to complement your Elegance stores in Sandton, Melrose Arch and Bedford Centre. What’s next? Next year marks 50 years of Elegance, so we’re gearing up for a year of celebrations. It will be about remembering where we’ve come from, celebrating where we’re at and imagining where we’re going. And then making it happen!
11
ALL 57 COMPLICATIONS BY FUNCTION
Front 1
6 time measurement functions 1 Hours, minutes, seconds, average solar time (regulator) 2 Three-shaft tourbillon 3 Tourbillon regulator with spherical balance spring 4 12-hour time zone, second hours and minutes time zone 5 24-city display for each time zone 6 Day/night indication for 12-hour time zone
54
31 1
37
7 perpetual calendar functions 7 Gregorian perpetual calendar 8 Gregorian day name 9 Gregorian month name 10 Gregorian retrograde date 11 Leap year and four-year cycle display 12 Number of the day of the week (ISO 8601 calendar) 13 Week to view (ISO 8601 calendar)
42
51
39
41-50 36
21 35
53
20 15
52
17 34
9 astronomical calendar functions 22 Seasons, equinoxes, solstices and signs of the Zodiac indicated by the hand on the sun 23 Star chart (for the owner's city) 24 Sidereal time hours 25 Sidereal time minutes 26 Equation of time 27 Sunrise times (for the owner's city) 28 Sunset times (for the owner's city) 29 Length of day (for the owner's city) 30 Length of night (for the owner's city)
16 33 32
8 Hebrew calendar functions 14 Hebrew perpetual calendar and 19-year cycle 15 Hebrew day number 16 Hebrew month name 17 Hebrew date 18 Hebrew secular calendar 19 Hebrew century, decade and year 20 Age of Hebrew year (12 or 13 months) 21 Golden number (19 years)
1 19
The most complicated watch ever made 1 lunar calendar function 31 Moon phases and age (one correction every 1,027 years)
57 33-34
Back
1 religious calendar function 32 Date of Yom Kippur
55-56 10 38
6
23
43 column wheel chronograph functions 33 Retrograde seconds chronograph (one column wheel) 34 Retrograde split-seconds chronograph (one column wheel) 35 Hours counter (one column wheel) 36 Minutes counter
34 11
45-46 12
5 40
24-25
4
9 13
8
48
26
22
28 30
29 2-3
27 47
7 alarm functions 37 Alarm with its own gong and gradual striking 38 Alarm strike / silence indicator 39 Choice of normal alarm or carillon striking alarm indicator 40 Alarm mechanism coupled with the carillon striking mechanism 41 Alarm striking with choice of grande or petite sonnerie 42 Alarm power reserve indication 43 System to disengage the striking mechanism when alarm barrel fully unwound 8 Westminster carillon striking functions 44 Westminster carillon chiming with five gongs and five hammers 45 Grande sonnerie passing strike 46 Petite sonnerie passing strike 47 Minute repeating 48 Night silence feature (10pm to 8am) 49 System to disengage the striking barrel when fully wound 50 Indication for grande or petite sonnerie modes 51 Indication for silence / striking / night modes 6 other functions 52 Movement power reserve indicator 53 Power reserve indication for the striking train 54 Winding crown position indicator 55 Dual barrel winding system 56 Time setting in two positions and two directions 57 Secret mechanism (opening of the button for alarm arbor)
perpetual calendar can truly be considered to be one of the greatest contributions to mechanical watchmaking of recent times. Due to the long-term changing cycles of the Hebraic calendar and its difference to the Gregorian calendar, the making of a complete functioning mechanical Hebraic perpetual calendar in a watch has been impossible until now. Highly complicated mathematical calculations combining both the lunar months and solar year were transcribed into not only an operational mechanism but a display that is elegant, logical and easy to read. This achievement cannot be overstated as an example of contemporary watchmaking genius. The Hebraic perpetual calendar works on the principle of the 19-year Metonic cycle because 19 years is almost exactly a multiple of the solar year and lunar month over that period. On this watch, the Metonic cycle (also called Golden Number) is displayed as a sector at 3 o’clock concentric with the chronograph hour register. The sacred date of Yom Kippur indicated in the Gregorian calendar each year, is represented by the corresponding retrograde hand at 6 o’clock, which returns to its starting point every 19 years, at which time the sector is replaced for each of the 19 year cycles. To keep the 12-month lunar year in pace with the solar year, a “13th” leap-month called an intercalary month has to be added seven times during the 19-year cycle. Ingeniously, this watch not only allows for this addition but also shows the user whether the current year is a 12 or 13-month year via an indicator hand and 12/ 13 display situated concentric with the chronograph minute register and counter hand in the 9 o’clock position. In the Hebrew calendar, there are fixed lunar months of 29 or 30 days alternately. Those of Cheshvan and
RECORD-BREAKER/REFERENCE 57260
A custom-made creation Made using the classic principles of watchmaking along with resolutely 21st century thinking, this watch is an entirely original creation exhibiting a total of 57 complications, several of which are entirely new and unique. The new complications that were required to be incorporated including, amongst others, the multiple calendars and double retrograde rattrapante chronograph, had never previously existed and therefore had to be calculated, designed and developed from scratch, thus a completely new caliber of movement was created. This meant the creation of an entirely new type of movement unlike any other seen before. Furthermore, even the mechanisms of the more familiar complications have been modified, reinterpreted and redesigned so that the finished watch is utterly harmonious as a whole. Its conception and realization required not only a huge leap of imagination but a level of mathematical understanding and craftsmanship that is almost beyond comprehension. The successful completion of this watch has introduced several important brand-new complications to the world of watchmaking and as such the research and skills developed during its construction can be considered to be the greatest contribution to the advancement of mechanical watchmaking since the 1920s. Amongst the list of fifty-seven complications are a significant number of ingenious and important new mechanisms that have never been seen before in watchmaking. These new Vacheron Constantin innovations are found in every aspect of the watch’s construction, within which each function has its application in
Reference 57260 by Vacheron Constantin is a double-dial horological masterwork of hitherto unimaginable complication and technical innovation. It has been conceived over a period of eight years by a team of three of the company’s Master Watchmakers watchmaking both as an individual technical development and as an integral part of this extraordinary watch. Made of solid 18-carat white gold, polished with glazed bezels on each side, the elegant and perfectly proportioned case has a three-position winding crown with corresponding indication window on the case band to show the position of the crown during winding or setting. A co-axial button in the crown controls the start/ stop and return-to-zero functions of the double retrograde chronograph and the push-button in the case band at 11 o’clock activates and restarts the rattrapante chronograph function. Of particular note is the totally unobtrusive and new design of the concealed flush-fit alarm winding crown located in the case band at the 4 o’clock position. This is a most sophisticated method of concealing the alarm button so that it does not detract from the clean line and elegance of the case. Each side of the watch has a dial made of solid silver, while the rotating discs for the displays are made of aluminium so as to be lightweight and therefore require only the slightest energy to move. The meantime dial is of regulator style, displaying the hours, minutes and seconds on separate chapter rings, a design derived from precision regulator clocks such as those used in observatories and laboratories. This first dial displays some of the entirely new and very exciting functions developed and seen for the first time ever in this watch. The Hebraic Perpetual Calendar Of the utmost technical and mathematical complexity, the Hebraic
Kislev can have 29 or 30 days, depending on the year. Here, the self-correcting date hand is concentric to the Yom Kippur sector and constant seconds. On either side of the date, two windows indicate the number of days and months in Hebrew. The secular Hebrew calendar, which is displayed in a four-digit window below the Yom Kippur sector is calculated from the supposed date of the creation of the world in 3760 BC. To calculate the present year in the Hebrew calendar 2015 is added to 3760 giving the year 5775. Thus the Jewish New Year began in September 2016 with the Hebrew year 5777. Tishrei is the first month of the Hebrew calendar. Within the centre of the hour chapter-ring are four representations of the moon phases and also a hand indicating the age of the moon within its 29.5305882 day cycle. The Vacheron Constantin moon phase system requires correction only once every 1027 years. Double Retrograde “Rattrapante” Chronograph Completely new to the world of watchmaking, the bold and visually dramatic Vacheron Constantin retrograde rattrapante chronograph is of a totally innovative design and construction. This is the first watch ever to be made with a rattrapante chronograph with double retrograde action. It is not only a highly visual complication but mechanically ingenious. This new chronograph is read by the user exactly in the manner of a classic split-seconds chronograph; uniquely however, whilst both hands still work in unison and from the same axis, unlike all other split-seconds chronographs, the two hands never actually meet but operate on two separate scales on
13
RECORD-BREAKER/REFERENCE 57260
opposing sides of the dial. In this respect, the new chronograph can perhaps be best described as a “detached” split-seconds chronograph. To create this function, a new chronograph mechanism has been invented and made entirely in-house at Vacheron Constantin specifically for this exceptional watch. In addition, it has been necessary to specially design and make the two long and very fine chronograph hands so that the chronograph has perfect stability and extreme accuracy during operation. This detail illustrates just one of the myriad of highly complex calculations and watchmaking skills required in the design and making of every aspect of this watch in which even the smallest of details has been meticulously determined. There are two register dials for the chronograph counting each elapsed minute up to 60-minutes and each elapsed hour up to 12-hours so that events of up to 12-hours in duration can be accurately recorded. The Westminster Chiming, Alarm and Special Night-Silence Feature Sectors can be seen on the dial to either side of the hour chapter ring, just above the chronograph registers. These sectors with their corresponding hands are indicators for the selection of the mode of chiming, mode of alarm striking and the alarm power reserve indicator. These are unsurprisingly highly sophisticated and incorporate new and unique watchmaking inventions and innovations. Chiming This watch offers 3 possible striking modes: 1. Striking - the watch chimes automatically at each passing quarter hour, in the same way as a clock. With 5 hammers striking 5 finely tuned steel gongs, the chiming sequence is that of “Big Ben”, the clock of the Palace of Westminster in London. 2. Night silence - chiming automatically disabled from 12am – 8am (described in more detail below). 3. Silence - chiming switched off when it is not desired. There are two additional options to choose from; Grande sonnerie - striking the hours and the quarters at every passing quarter and alternatively Petite sonnerie - striking the full hours at the hour but only a quarter-strike without hours on the quarters. To repeat the chiming at any time, the slide on the band of the case can be activated whenever it is desired by the user. Night-Time Silence A unique and very user-friendly new feature has been developed especially for the chiming system of this watch, that of the automatically activated “Night-Time Silence” mode. A special system has been developed by Vacheron Constantin and built into this watch whereby (in this instance) between the hours of 12am and 8am it does not chime in order not to disturb its owner. This system is unique in being the first to be automatically activated without the need to manually set the chime or silence option.
14
Alarm In addition to the chiming mechanism, this model houses an integrally connected alarm system with separate power-reserve indication. The main feature of this mechanism is that it allows a choice between either a traditional alarm on an additional differently tuned single gong with single hammer or Westminster carillon full chiming alarm in either Grande or Petite sonnerie mode.
The alarm is set via the winding crown that moves an additional alarm hand co-axial with the hour and moon’s age hand. The flush-fit winding button is situated in the band of the case. The Second Dial and Further Functions As well as the astronomical indications, several unique and major systems developed especially for this watch are presented here including a 12-hour second time-zone governed by a digital world-time display, a double perpetual calendar and a remarkable fully visible armillary sphere tourbillon. The blue star chart in the upper half of the dial represents the night sky and the star constellations visible from the user’s home city, with the months appearing around the edge. Concentric around the outer border is the scale for the retrograde date of the perpetual calendar, the hand “flying” back to its start point at the end of each month. Subsidiary dials for the days of the week and the months flank the star dial and the aperture above the month dial shows the number of the year between 1 and 4 in the leap-year cycle. Around the edge of the dial are three astronomic scales which are read using the central gold hand identified by its sun counterpoise. The outermost scale is for the months of the year and their respective number of days, while a concentric scale for the year divided into Zodiac sign periods additionally indicates the dates of the Vernal and Autumnal Equinoxes and the summer and winter solstices. The inter-related four seasons are displayed on a further inner concentric ring. The sector above the tourbillion aperture indicates Equation of Time showing the discrepancy between true solar time and standard meantime which fluctuates during the year but can be ahead by as much as 16 minutes (around November 3rd) and behind by 14 minutes (around February 12th). Solar and meantime are equal on just four occasions each year. Flanking the tourbillon aperture are two dual sectors for the time of sunrise and day length and time of sunset and night length in the user’s home city. These indications are in fact another relevant factor in the Gregorian calendar in which the days are calculated from the hours of light and darkness and not strictly set times. Another watchmaking first is the 12-hour second time zone dial with separate day and night indicator window located in the 10 o’clock position: the second time zone is used in conjunction with the digitally displayed world-time function which gives a choice of 24 cities and countries and their respective time deviations from Greenwich Meantime. This thoroughly new and discreet 12-hour system of world-time mechanism and display is the first new system to be developed since Louis Cottier’s wellknown world-time system with 24-hour indication invented around 1935 and is therefore of major significance. The Dual-Function Perpetual Calendar The perpetual calendar systems invented and built by the watchmakers of Vacheron Constantin are amongst the greatest achievements made during the construction of this watch. They represent the brand’s supreme mastery of both highly complex mathematical calculations and the ability of their watchmaking team to translate the calculations into mechanisms functioning in complete harmony in relation to the myriad other functions. Including the Hebraic perpetual calendar seen on the other dial, this watch has the ability to provide three entirely different perpetual calendar readings. The fundamental new departure is that two possible options are available for the reading of the
RECORD-BREAKER/REFERENCE 57260
Gregorian perpetual calendar displayed on this dial: either the traditional Gregorian calendar or the business calendar system known as ISO 8601, a numerical system which utilizes 52 weeks and 7 days. The Gregorian perpetual calendar which automatically corrects itself for the appropriate number of days in the month and the leap-years can be read on the dial using the retrograde date, the days of the week and months dials, with the leap-year window displaying a number between 1 and 4 located to the right of the retrograde date sector. The ISO 8601 business calendar is a specific system founded by the International Organization for Standardization and used mainly in the international financial sector for example in company accounting for tax years, payment of wages or rents due on a weekly basis, the planning of projects in weekly cycles, etc. The purpose of this standard is to provide an unambiguous method of representing dates and times, so as to avoid misinterpretation of numeric representations of dates and times, particularly when data are transferred between countries with different conventions for writing numeric dates and times. When times are also required under the ISO system, they are given using the 24-hour system and with time-zone information where necessary. Both these functions are also present on this dial. When the ISO 8601 mode is employed, the number of the week within the year and the number of the day within the week takes precedence over the traditional calendar month and
THE MASTER WATCHMAKERS WHO DEVELOPED THE REFERENCE 57260
16
The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHGJ) honoured Jean-Luc Perrin, Yannick Pintus and Micke Pintus (pictured l-r), Vacheron Constantin’s three Master Watchmakers, for Reference 57260, the most complicated watch ever made. The Special Jury Prize is particularly symbolic within the world of Haute Horlogerie in that it celebrates first and foremost the work of the men behind a timepiece. Considered “an authentic human adventure” according to Jean-Luc Perrin, the eight years of development required to create the Reference 57260 watch drew upon exceptional expertise and a determination to push the boundaries of feasibility. The three Master Watchmakers, who have developed many of the most complex Vacheron Constantin timepieces, already won the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix 10 years ago in 2005 for the Tour de l’lle, which was at the time the world’s most complicated watch. This model was born of the passion for taking on the wildest challenges nurtured by three men who are masters of their art.
traditional date, the number of the week is read from the dial concentric to the month indication and the number of the day within the week is indicated by a number between 1 (for Monday) and 7 (for Sunday) in a window directly above the week dial. The ISO system has a full cycle of 400 years and employs a seven-day cycle with weeks starting on a Monday. However, an ISO year can have either 52 or in some cases 53 full weeks when New Year’s Day falls on a Thursday (Wednesday or Thursday in leapyears): this occurs every 5 or 6 years. In the ISO system, week 1 is the one which contains the first Thursday of the year and always contains January 4th. The last week of the year in the ISO calendar is the one that contains the last Thursday and always includes December 28th. This system requires the user to adopt a different way of interpretation for example: if the calendar is displaying Thursday, September 17th, the ISO calendar will read as day 4 in the day aperture (because Thursday is the fourth day) and W 38 (W for week) on the week dial. Another option in the mechanism of this ingenious system is that it can be switched from ISO mode to traditional calendar year mode. A calendar year is the period beginning January 1 and ending on December 31. Its programming mode will therefore also on 1 January of the year put the number of days of the week in synchronisation with the first day of the calendar year. If the annual calendar displays the first day of the year on Thursday, January 1, the calendar will display W 1 on the week dial and 1 in the day window (Thursday is the first day of the year). The Vacheron Constantin Armillary Sphere Tourbillon 2 The mesmerizing armillary tourbillon cage containing the watch’s escapement is visible through the aperture beneath the sky chart. It is both technically exciting and visually dramatic. The watchmakers at Vacheron Constantin have created the most supremely elegant mechanism that displays a three-dimensional constantly rotating sphere moving with the utmost delicacy simultaneously in three directions. Appropriately, the watchmaker has also chosen to use a spherical balance spring which not only adds to the elegance of the mechanism, its special properties contribute to the accuracy of the watch. This tourbillon was named “armillary” because visually it is reminiscent of the circles and rings of the scientific instrument known as the armillary sphere. It was placed in the second dial side complementing the astronomical functions to suggest the apparent movement of the stars, the Sun and the ecliptic around the earth. The frame of the cage itself, made of ultra-light aluminium and carrying the escapement and balance, is ingeniously constructed to incorporate the Vacheron Constantin company symbol of the Maltese-Cross, once every 15-seconds during the tourbillon’s rotation, the Maltese-Cross becomes fully visible to the viewer. The armillary sphere tourbillon is a feat of high-precision watchmaking. Made of the lightest of materials, its purpose is to minimize the effects of gravity on the balance wheel, hairspring and pallet fork of the escapement. The tourbillon is essentially a revolving platform and “cage” upon which the whole escapement is mounted that makes one full rotation in one minute. In this tourbillon, the escapement is rotated in three planes at once. The escapement has two further exceptional features: a spherical balance spring and diamond anchor pallets.
Omega
My dad had an Omega 60 years ago so there is a special personal connection. It’s a dream come true to be part of the team
Seamaster Professional
18
Ryk Neethling
Chad le Clos
BRAND AMBASSADORS/HEAD TO HEAD
24H sat down to shoot the breeze with two of South Africa’s most talented and decorated swimmers, Ryk Neethling and Chad le Clos. Having both teamed up with global watch giants recently, we offered the two compatriots the following tale of the tape head to head questionnaire. Watch brand
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Why?
I have put down roots in Val de Vie as the estate’s Marketing Director and a shareholder. I believe both Val de Vie and Jaeger-LeCoultre are synonymous, not only with polo, but with luxury
Model
Master Geographic
Durban
Place of birth
Bloemfontein
Westville Boys High
High School
Grey College Bloemfontein
Yes, soccer
Did you at any time consider specialising in a different sport?
It was my dream for a while to play rugby for the Springboks
2-time Olympian, 4 medals
Olympic history
4-time Olympian, 1 medal
United, it’s easy, always United!
Man United or Liverpool?
Not a big football fan
Gold medal 200m Butterfly, London 2012
Finest moment
Winning an Olympic gold medal
Finishing 4th 200m Butterfly Rio 2016
Biggest disappointment
My performance at the 2000 Summer Olympics when I took 5th place.
Cape Town
Joburg, Durban or Cape Town?
Cape Town, but more specifically, the Paarl-Franschhoek region
Mauritius
Favourite country other than SA
Spain
I want to be part of sport, to help and be a mentor, to build a swimming academy to provide the younger generation with an educational platform to enjoy sport
Legacy, life after swimming?
I obtained a degree and gained work experience so I had developed an identity outside of sport before I retired. I think it’s really important for athletes to do so.
Blondes at the moment!
Blondes or brunettes?
Blondes, brunettes and redheads!
Ferrari
Ferrari or Aston Martin?
Ferrari
Sharks
Bulls, Sharks Stormers?
Cheetahs
I’m doing Movember but I can certainly try
Would you ever grow a full beard?
Yes
Freestyle
Favourite event other than your respective specialities (Butterfly and Freestyle)?
The 100m individual medley in which I achieved a world record
Sir Bobby Charlton
Most famous person ever met
The Queen
I have the suits, maybe the poker skills...!
Daniel Craig – the current James Bond and Clive Owen – once tipped to be James Bond are also brand ambassadors in your respective stables. Do you think you have what it takes to be James Bond?
Definitely!
Next goal?
My focus remains on Val de Vie where I am the estate’s Marketing Director, on growing the brand and ensuring its ongoing success. I am also going to continue mentoring athletes, growing my swim schools and focusing on my association with excellent companies like Jaeger-LeCoultre.
World Champs 2017. Redemption for the Olympic loss this year.
THE PRESENT/PRODUCT
Patek Philippe
Nautilus Chronograph Anniversary Limited Edition This self-winding fly back chronograph in 18-carat white gold commemorates the 40th birthday of the Nautilus collection. At 49.25mm wide it is distinctly more prominent than the 30TH anniversary edition. The satin-finished bezel with shiny chamfers and the alternating matt/mirror-polished bracelet links are all meticulously executed by hand. The aperture date is set in a mirror-polished white-gold frame. The applied hour markers of flawless baguette and princess-cut diamonds discreetly encircle the dial and it features the horizontal embossed decor in the upper half of the dial with the anniversary citation ‘1976 – 40 – 2016.’ It is adorned with 35 jewels, has a power reserve of up to 55 hours, is water resistant to 120m with a link bracelet and fold-over clasp in 18-carat white gold. Limited to 1,300 pieces. www.patek.com
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Today there are more timepiece styles to choose from than ever before
Breguet
Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 The Tradition Collection showcases the mechanisms of the movement on top of the baseplate and was inspired by the ‘subscription watches’ that Abraham-Louis Breguet first produced in 1796. They were fitted with a very simple movement and sold by subscription: a down payment of a quarter of the price on order and the balance on delivery. The forbear of all the shock-protection devices in use today, pare-chute (a Breguet invention) is located at 4 o’ clock and protects the balance staff from shocks. The case is available in 18-carat white or rose gold, 40mm in diameter. It is water resistant to 30m. The silvered 18-carat gold dial is offset at 12 o’ clock, individually numbered and signed Breguet. The self-winding movement houses 38 jewels and a 50-hour power reserve. The gold winding rotor is reminiscent of antique Breguet watches. It has a leather strap. www.breguet.com
THE PRESENT/PRODUCT
A. Lange & Sรถhne
Lange 1 Time Zone Special Edition in Honey Gold This German manufactory was established by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in 1845. The company was expropriated after World War II and the name nearly vanished but was re-launched in 1990 by his great-grandson Walter Lange. The Lange 1 was one of the first four timepieces of the new era. The dial delivers a single-glance reading of home time and the time in a second time zone. The time zone is set with a lateral pusher and advances the rotating city ring with the 24 place names from west to east, with Dresden representing Central European Time. An ingenious synchronisation mechanism also makes it possible to transfer the zone time on the subsidiary dial to the main dial. It has an impressive power reserve of three days. The 41.9mm case in 18-carat honey gold is harder than other gold alloys and is limited to 100 watches, only available through A. Lange & Sรถhne boutiques. www.alange-soehne.com
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Hublot
Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Concrete Jungle Hublot means ‘A different way to progress’ so in homage to one of the world’s most iconic cities, the brand collaborated with world famous New York City street artist Tristan Eaton, to develop a watch with actual concrete elements incorporated in the bezel. Eaton decorated the caseback with his signature mosaic artistry; in this case a colourful motif of the Statue of Liberty. The self-winding skeleton chronograph has a power reserve of 42 hours and comes with two strap options in black rubber with either black synthetic textile or grey calf leather in black or grey stitching. It is water resistant to 50m in a limited run of 50 pieces. www.hublot.com www.tristaneaton.com
Rolex
Cosmograph Daytona
Created in 1963, the Daytona is a racing watch. It has an extraordinary track record in the world of motor sport and is one of the best-known chronographs in the world. The model is known for the tachymetric scale engraved on the single piece bezel for measuring average speeds of up to 400 miles or 640 kilometres per hour. The new bezel of high-tech ceramic is corrosion resistant, virtually scratchproof and the colour is unaffected by UV rays. A thin layer of platinum in the numerals create an exceptionally legible tachymetric scale. The steel case is 40mm in diameter and is waterproof to 100 metres. The white lacquer dial with 18-carat white gold appliques displays the chronograph (centre hand), which is accurate to within 1/8 of a second, 30 minute counter and 12 hour counters are positioned at 3 and 9 o’ clock respectively. It boasts an impressive 72 hour power reserve with a solid link steel bracelet that has a 5mm comfort extension link. www.rolex.com
Piaget has been awarded the prizes for best ladies and Métiers d’art watches at the recent Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) a prestigious annual rendezvous rewarding the year’s finest creations best illustrating watchmaking excellence in each of 12 categories Limelight Gala Milanese Bracelet Inspired by the extravagance of the 1970s, the Limelight Gala features a flowing Milanese mesh bracelet and diamond-set bezel with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds in 18-carat pink gold. A sliding clasp enables a perfect fit to the nearest millimetre. This new watch illustrates perfect synergy between watchmaking and jewellery expertise.
Protocole XXL ‘Secrets & Lights’ Venice Micro-Mosaic The dial and bezel of this piece were decorated by Italian micro-mosaic specialist Cesare Bella. Almost 5,000 tiny glass tesserae are placed side by side to reveal a remarkable view of Santa Maria della Salute. Each colour is meticulously chosen to achieve an array of delicately shaded colours creating an unbelievably realistic vision. The case and dial are 18-carat white gold with a black alligator strap and a 60 hour power reserve. www.piaget.com
THE PRESENT/PRODUCT
Piaget
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THE PRESENT/PRODUCT
Graff
Graff Star Slim Eclipse A durable and elegant dress watch crafted in 43mm black titanium, and at only 6.25mm thin, it is ultra slim It weighs a mere 38 grams (case weight and movement) and features a striking faceted bezel, an icon positioned at 12 o’ clock and a black diamond set crown. The Graff ’s Calibre 3 movement is self-winding and only 3.20mm in depth. It is exclusively designed, developed and built in Switzerland for Graff. All details of the timepiece are in black including the alligator strap. It is water resistant to 30m. www.graffdiamonds.com
Omega
Deep Black This remarkable 45.5mm timepiece is a combination of a GMT model and a diving watch. Made entirely from ceramic, it can amazingly withstand pressures of up to 600m under water. The case body is crafted from a single block of ceramic. The same material is also used for the unidirectional bezels as well as the dials that feature new Arabic numerals. Rubber has been blended with ceramic to create a unique bezel. On the blue and red models, this colourful innovation can be seen covering the first 15 minutes. The movement is resistant to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss and the black rubber straps give the appearance of being fabric and are treated with an antibacterial coating. www.omegawatches.com www.swatch.com
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Longines
The Avigation Watch Type A7 1935 Longines has taken inspiration from its multifaceted history and ties with the world of aviation to enrich its Heritage collection. This elegant vintage styled chronograph combines performance and precision with unusual honey-coloured Arabic numerals and an angled dial, which allow pilots to read the indices without having to release the plane’s controls. Its stainless steel case, 41mm in diameter, has 27 jewels and a sapphire crystal with several layers of anti-reflective treatment. It is water resistant to 30m and has a 54-hour power reserve. The brown alligator strap finishes it off beautifully. www.longines.com
Rado
HyperChrome 1616 (Brown) In 1616, two Dutch merchants pushed the limits of exploration with their discovery of Cape Horn. Four hundred years later, Rado has relaunched its vintage Cape Horn collection - first introduced in the late 60s - with this oversized hypermasculine reinterpretation. The case is constructed in the brand’s signature high-tech ceramic (five times harder than stainless steel but only 75 percent of its weight) and measures 46mm with solid coloring in either black or brown. Unique in brown with yellow gold coloured indexes, 25 jewels, day/date at 6 o‘ clock with 80 hours power reserve and water resistance to 100m. Limited edition of 400. www.rado.com
THE PRESENT/PRODUCT
Movado Edge
Developed in collaboration with world-renowned industrial designer Yves Béhar, Movado has brought new design and innovation to their lauded Museum Dial. This dial was created in 1947 by Nathan George Horwitt and has no numbers. It is defined only by a solitary gold dot at 12 o’ clock, symbolising the sun at high noon while its simple moving hands suggest the daily rotation of the earth on its axis. This dial is one of the most acclaimed of all time. The original design was accepted into the permanent collection of MoMA in 1960. The new collection includes men’s, women’s and chronograph models on stainless steel link bracelets and black leather or rubber straps. www.movado.com
Ingersoll
The proprietors of the original ‘Dollar Watch’. The Ingersoll Watch Company is one of the USA’s oldest watchmakers. A special commemorative collection was released to celebrate their 120th anniversary. The case is imposing at 45mm. The striking blue dial displays day, month and date detail. It features an automatic movement, a 40-hour power reserve and genuine leather strap. www.ingersoll1892.com
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INTRODUCES: INTRODUCES:
In 1882, Robert Hawley Ingersoll and his brother Charles Henry opened a mail order business. From these humble beginnings In 1882, Robert Hawley Ingersoll and his brother Charles Henry came the Ingersoll watch company. Robert Ingersoll’s vision was opened a mail order business. From these humble beginnings to provide a timepiece which everyone could afford. came the Ingersoll watch company. Robert Ingersoll’s vision was to provide a timepiece which everyone could afford.
In 1989, Zeon Ltd acquired the Ingersoll brand and has stayed true to Ingersoll’s long successful history, always In 1989, Zeon Ltd and acquired the Ingersoll brand andincorporating has stayed truethe to latest trends in the watch market.history, always incorporating the Ingersoll’s long and successful latest trends in the watch market. In 2012 Ingersoll celebrated its 120th anniversary with the release of a collection. More anniversary than 120 years the first In commemorative 2012 Ingersoll celebrated its 120th with after the release of Ingersoll watch was launched, eye catching design, reliable mechana commemorative collection. More than 120 years after the first ics and incredible value for money remain the hallmarks of mechanIngersoll Ingersoll watch was launched, eye catching design, reliable watches. ics and incredible value for money remain the hallmarks of Ingersoll watches. 2016 promises to be an exciting year for Ingersoll in terms of craftsmanship and due to year the new movements being 2016 promises to bestyle an exciting for Ingersoll in terms of into the brand and the move to more resiliant design. craftsmanship and style due to the new movements being
quality, phased quality, phased
into the brand and the move to more resiliant design.
H.M. Watch Distributors (Pty) Ltd. +27 11 011 9140 / Watch hilton@hmwatch.co.za / hmf@icon.co.za H.M. Distributors (Pty) Ltd. The Pivot, Monte Casino Boulevard, Block 1ST Floor +27 11 011 9140 / hilton@hmwatch.co.za / C,hmf@icon.co.za The Pivot, Monte Casino Boulevard, Block C, 1ST Floor
It’s time to up your game. VIRAT KOHLI. VIRAT KOHLI IS AN INDIAN CRICKETER. ONE OF THE TOP BATSMAN IN THE WORLD, HE IS THE CAPTAIN OF THE INDIAN TEST CRICKET TEAM. KOHLI ALSO ACTIVELY SUPPORTS OTHER SPORTS IN INDIA SUCH AS FOOTBALL AND TENNIS. VIRAT IS WEARING A TISSOT CHEMIN DES TOURELLES AUTOMATIC WITH A POWERMATIC 80 MOVEMENT WITH UP TO 80 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE.
THE SWATCH GROUP SOUTH AFRICA – 011 911 1200 SHOP 546, CANAL WALK SHOPPING CENTRE, CAPE TOWN - 021 551 0368 KIOSK 22, V&A WATERFRONT SHOPPING MALL, CAPE TOWN – 021 418 0177 MENLYN PARK SHOPPING CENTRE, PRETORIA - OPENING 2016
T I S S OT WATC H E S . C O M TISSOT, INNOVATORS BY TRADITION
PARIS
THE FUTURE/TRAVEL
Vacheron Constantin Overseas & Steve McCurry Wave 2 Earlier this year Vacheron Constantin announced an exceptional collaboration with legendary photographer, Steve McCurry, in order to illustrate the Overseas collection
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About Vacheron Constantin Founded in Geneva in 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron, Vacheron Constantin is the world’s oldest watch manufacturer in continuous production for over 260 years. Pursuing its longstanding ties with the world of art and culture, the brand is committed to fostering fine artistic crafts that play such a key role in contemporary creativity, while highlighting the excellence achieved by combining these talents with those of design.
SCOTLAND
THE MANUFACTURE OFFERED a distinctive perspective on the world through the lens of this great master of images. Like the 12 hours of the dial, the photojournalist has immortalised 12 unexpected locations, the first six of which were featured in a previous edition. Here are the rest...
MOSCOW
UZBEKISTAN
MOROCCO
ETHIOPIA
About Steve McCurry Steve McCurry has been one of the most iconic figures in contemporary photography for more than 30 years. He has created unforgettable images over six continents and numerous countries. His body of work spans conflicts, vanishing cultures, ancient traditions and contemporary culture alike – yet always retains the human element that made his celebrated image of the Afghan Girl such a powerful image. McCurry has been recognised with some of the most prestigious awards, including an unprecedented four first prize awards from the World Press Photo contest amongst dozens of others.
FINAL MOMENT/ROYAL RETROSPECTIVE
Marie Antoinette, a Queen of Versailles
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THIS RETROSPECTIVE will be on view at the Mori Arts Center Gallery in Japan until 26 February 2017. Organised by the Château de Versailles, it pays special tribute to the exceptional ties between the last queen of France and the House of Breguet, with two refined creations inspired by her universe to be unveiled.
www.michel-herbelin.co.za | Stockist enquiries: (011) 448 2210 Michel Herbelin South Africa
@mherbelinsa