WATCH SUPPLEMENT TO JOBURG STYLE MAGAZINE
Sign of the times
TUDOR EMBRACES THE GAGA FACTOR
Master Control Date Automatic Calibre Jaeger-LeCoultre 899/1 219 pieces, 28.800 beats per hour
Elegance is an attitude Kate Winslet
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Longines Symphonette
ISSUE 8 | CONTENTS 10
14
NEW BRANDS 3 Reasons to explore
THE PAST Band of brothers
We take a look at the Omega timepieces that accompanied the allied forces to the front line in WWI and WWII.
Three brands you’ve probably never heard of, discovered during 24H’s maiden visit to Baselworld 2017.
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THE PRESENT Showpieces
The latest release out of Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie Genève and more.
Vintage look and feel and blue dials are the main trends in watches this year. My top five favourite pieces so far are: • The Rolex Sky-Dweller (blue dial and white Rolesor bracelet). • The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 (in an amazing vintage dial). • The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph (with blue denim fabric strap). • The Panerai Radiomir 1940 (in a racing green dial!). • And a toss-up between the Omega Speedmaster Racing and the Longines Conquest VHP. It’ll be spring by the time this issue has sprung and with Christmas around the corner, it’s time to start thinking of who to spoil, over and above yourself that is – it’s been a tough year and you’re worth it – and then how to spoil them. Within these pages lie the answers dear friend. I’ve included only one ladies’ watch (women’s month is over now
EDITORIAL BOARD Editor & Publisher ERIC BORNMAN eric@ballyhoomedia.co.za Creative Direction & Design STEVE MACBETH Copy Editing JULIA RICE julia@ballyhoomedia.co.za Proofreading LYNNE YATES | LOREN SHIRLEY-CARR Distribution ON THE DOT Printed by CREDA
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FINAL MOMENT The Swiss show their metal Collaborative research projects between Patek Philippe and the CSEM.
and the men are in need of some urgent attention) but it is the most beautiful one of the year in my view: the Cartier Tank, a sprightly 100 years old this year. Please don’t despair if it isn’t your thing, ladies, because come the December issue, I’ll be going overboard with timepieces especially for you, just in time for your Christmas shopping rush. This is our two-year anniversary edition, featuring a human being on the cover for the first time, the unmistakable form of the weird Lady Gaga, a recent addition to the Tudor brand ambassador stable. She’s wearing a Black Bay 41mm automatic with burgundy fabric strap (pictured here) accessorised with some very impressive shoulder pads, ala Gaga. Tudor has gone big this year, lining up both David Beckham and the All Black rugby team to complete an impressive trifecta of tastemakers. Enjoy the edition and don’t forget to follow us on Instagram @24hmag.
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Cover watch Black Bay 41mm automatic with burgundy fabric strap
FROM THE EDITOR
24H is published quarterly by Ballyhoo Media. Opinions expressed in Joburg Style are not necessarily those of Ballyhoo Media. No responsibility can be accepted for errors, as all information is believed to be correct at the time of going to print. Copyright subsists in all work in this magazine. Any reproduction or adaptation, in whole or in part, without written permission from the publishers is strictly prohibited and is an act of copyright infringement that may, in certain circumstances, constitute a criminal offence.
RADO.COM
RADO HYPERCHROME AUTOMATIC DIAMONDS PLASMA HIGH-TECH CERAMIC. METALLIC LOOK. MODERN ALCHEMY.
TIME IS THE ESSENCE WE ARE MADE OF
3 REASONS TO EXPLORE WHILE THE SOUTH AFRICAN MARKET IS FAIRLY INSIGNIFICANT IN THE GLOBAL WATCH INDUSTRY, AS WATCH ENTHUSIASTS WE OWE IT TO OURSELVES TO EXPLORE THE REMARKABLE BRANDS THAT NEVER QUITE MAKE IT TO OUR SHORES
Lebeau-Courally Lebeau-Courally timepieces are the result of creative synergies developed between the legendary and historic Belgian gunsmiths of Liège and the IMH SA Manufacture in Le Locle Switzerland. The legendary master engravers of LebeauCourally have honed their skills over centuries by creating exclusive hunting arms for art collectors and connoisseurs on
commission only. Having now turned their attention to watchmaking, the timepieces themselves are designed, built, assembled and tested in Le Locle, therefore exceeding the minimum legal requirements to qualify as ‘Swiss Made’, while the wholly-by-hand engraving of each movement case is done at the Belgian atelier. In 2016, Lebeau-Courally
unveiled its first all in-house movement, with a foundational caliber, the Micro II, following this year. The watch faces of LebeauCourally are elegant, clear and easy to use. The austere design offers the perfect setting for optional, bespoke engraving that offers a truly unique timepiece. www.lebeau-courally.com
The MICRO-ROTOR 42mm in a red gold case is an automatic self-winding mechanical watch with a part-openwork anthracite dial and Arabic numerals, a power reserve of 72 hours and black crocodile skin strap.
011 | DISCOVERIES | 3 BRANDS
QLOCKTWO by Biegert & Funk If you’re tired of unimaginative design or you mundanely tend to read the time off your mobile device, QLOCKTWO will reinvigorate you. These watches and an extended range of table and wall clocks tell time in letters that form words describing the
THESE WATCHES AND AN EXTENDED RANGE OF TABLE AND WALL CLOCKS TELL TIME IN LETTERS THAT FORM WORDS DESCRIBING THE TIME IN FIVE-MINUTE INTERVALS, AS IN ‘IT IS HALF PAST EIGHT’. time in five-minute intervals as in ‘It is half past eight’. Every illuminated dot in a corner represents a minute that is added to the displayed time. The brightness can be set to suit individual preferences or it can automatically adjust to the surrounding light. Not blown away yet? It tells the time in more than 20 different languages. QLOCKTWO is hand made in the factory in Schwäbisch Gmünd in Germany and has won more than a dozen international design awards and prizes including the Red Dot Design Award, the iF Product Design Award, the Good Design Award and the Plus X Award for functionality and design. The W 39
At the touch of a button, the time is displayed, alternatively seconds or the calendar day. The W 39 is available in two different designs from September onwards both measuring 39 x 39 mm: Black Steel and Fine Steel. It is aslo available in a 35 x 35mm variation. The full range includes wall clocks of 180 x 180cm, 90 x 90cm and table clocks of 45 x 45cm with interchangeable front covers. www.qlocktwo.com
012 | DISCOVERIES | 3 BRANDS
Arnold & Son A&S (as it is more commonly known) is an English neo-classic horology brand popularised by trendy, hipster and old-fashioned gentlemen who found inspiration from the legacy of John Arnold and his son as two of the most important English watchmakers who ever lived and from their historical contribution to watchmaking overall. The pieces are designed and produced at the A&S manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds in, Switzerland but integrate typical English design elements. Typical features of the brand and one of the reasons why Arnold has been referred to as the ‘English Breguet’ are threedimensional architecture, symmetry, skeletonised visible movements and complications. Jolly good. www.arnoldandson.com
The Tourbillon Chronometer No. 36, a modern tribute to the historical high-precision chronometers made by John Arnold is shown above. Drawing inspiration from the pocket chronometer No. 1/36, which will mark its 240th anniversary in 2018, it is a commemorative creation leading up to the milestone year.
BAND OF
BROTHERS
OMEGA | THE PAST | 015
OMEGA WAS ONE OF THE BIGGEST SUPPLIERS OF MILITARY WATCHES TO THE ALLIED FORCES DURING BOTH WORLD WARS AND IS STILL RECOGNISED TODAY FOR THE CRITICAL ROLE IT PLAYED
mega was able to provide precision wrist and pocket watches in high quantities for the armed services and became the first choice of Great Britain and its allies. When warfare moved into the trenches during WWI, commanding officers used their chronographs, among the first ever made, to time the exact difference between the flash and sound of opposing gunfire to work out the distance between themselves and the enemy, thereby securing vital information for planning their attacks. More than 110,000 pilots, navigators and soldiers were supplied with watches during WWII in support of the air force and navy, which made up more than 50 percent of all of Switzerland’s watch deliveries into the United Kingdom during the war.
O
More than 110,000 pilots, navigators and soldiers were supplied with watches during WWII in support of the air force and navy, which made up more than 50 percent of all of Switzerland’s watch deliveries into the United Kingdom during the war.
The CK2129 was the most commonly worn timepiece for RAF personnel in the early days of the Second World War. The rotating bezel was highly valuable for pilots and navigators during missions as it enabled them to time specific intervals during bombing raids. It was also deliberately made to be particularly easy to read with clear Arabic numerals and poire hands.
017 | THE PAST | OMEGA
The CK2444 came into service as warfare moved towards the Pacific Ocean and became known for superb water resistance. The British Ministry of Defence gave it a w.w.w engraving on the caseback, which stood for ‘Waterproof Wrist Watch’. There was also a Broad Arrow marking on the dial and caseback, which was typical of the British military.
As the war progressed, the CK2292 became the most famous and most widely used of all. These watches were supplied to the majority of RAF personnel. Inside was the innovative 30mm calibre, which had set numerous world precision records and was far more resistant to magnetism due to a new alloy used in the balance spring. This greatly served the pilots flying the Hurricanes and Spitfires, who were sitting just two feet behind a huge magnetic field within their powerful engines.
Field Marshal Lord Montgomery, the hero of El Alamein and Operation Overlord, visited Omega’s factories in Biel, Switzerland on two separate trips at the end of WWII, expressing his satisfaction and thanking them for the help the brand had provided. The lessons learned, expertise and capabilities gained, built an important platform for progress from which the Seamaster collection would be born in 1948.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle This line of six new creations in pink gold cases and slate grey dials, with a range of varied horological complications, pays tribute to expertise built over almost 300 years of watchmaking The new models combine the signature characteristics of the Traditionnelle collection such as the round stepped case, slim bezel and fluted caseback, railway-track minute circle, ‘bâtons de Genève’ applied hourmarkers and Dauphine-type hands and elegant black alligator leather straps.
Each model houses an in-house mechanical movement, manual-winding or self-winding, showcasing the full spectrum of watchmaking, from simple displays to the most sophisticated complications: Grand Complication masterpieces Calibre 2755 and 14-day tourbillon, ultra-thin self-winding caliber, day-date and power reserve and simple display with manual- or self-winding. http://sihh.vacheron-constantin.com
DESIRABLES | THE PRESENT | 019
Showpieces
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Duetto Jewellery The new interpretation of the Reverso in pink gold draws its inspiration from pure 1920s and 1930s art deco, the era from which this iconic watch first came into being. The pink gold bracelet strap is made of geometric links set with diamonds and a bold graphic lozenge motif across the dial on the reverse. Featuring 460 diamonds for a total of over two carats, the automatic mechanical movement is produced, assembled and decorated by hand. Set in 18-carat pink gold with diamond-set gadroons, it has a 38-hour power reserve and is water-resistant to 30m. The upper dial is polished pink gold, set with brilliant-cut diamonds. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller This classic watch for world travellers is now available in yellow or white Rolesor versions that combines steel and gold. The dials feature rectangular index hour markers and Chromalight display with long-lasting luminescence enhancing legibility. Featuring 11 patents, the SkyDweller provides information that helps travellers keep track of time: a dual time zone, local time read via centre hands and a reference time display in a 24-hour format read via a rotating off-centre disc on the dial, and a particularly innovative annual calendar named Saros – after the astronomical phenomenon of the same name, which requires only one date adjustment a year, when the month changes from February to March. It has a 42mm diameter, twin-lock double waterproofness system, scratch-resistant sapphire and 72-hour power reserve. www.rolex.com
DESIRABLES | THE PRESENT | 021
Cartier Tank At 100 years old the Tank watch has always swept aside tradition. A choice among free spirits of every age, it is a symbol of style and elegance bridging different eras centred around three cult models: the Tank Louis Cartier, the Tank Américaine and the Tank Française all of which have released new models in this milestone year. Pictured here (courtesy of Eric Sauvage © Cartier) is the Tank Louis Cartier in pink gold, set with brilliant-cut diamonds and mechanical movement with manual winding. www.cartier.com
Luminor 1950 PCYC Chrono Flyback Automatic
Fascinating little details include an engraving of an elegant classic yacht on the back along with a tachymeter scale in knots printed on the flange. A powerful sporting identity is primarily demonstrated by the chronograph flyback function that instantly zeroes the chronograph hands and immediately restarts them. The dial is ivory with beige markers and blue details and it is supplied with a strap in brown leather with beige sewing. The stainless steel case, 44mm in diameter, is extremely resistant to corrosion and is waterresistant up to 100m.
Panerai
THE BRAND IS CELEBRATING ITS LONG-LIVED RELATIONSHIP WITH THE SEA (YACHTING IN THIS CASE) WITH THE STUNNING NEW LUMINOR & MARE NOSTRUM MODELS. www.panerai.com
DESIRABLES | THE PRESENT | 023
Mare Nostrum
The Mare Nostrum was the first chronograph in the history of Officine Panerai and is one of the rarest models. The first prototypes were intended for deck officers of the Royal Italian Navy, but never went into production. It is now available as a new 42mm diameter blue dial special edition in steel. The dial is a sophisticated deep blue, like the original model, and coordinates with the alligator strap, stitching and sewn-on steel buckle. It is limited to 1,000 units and has a power reserve of 42 hours.
Breitling CHRONOLINER B04 The automatic chronograph houses an ultra-convenient dual time zone, system in a limited all-blue livery series, a second 24-hour time zone display and ceramic rotating bezel that reads off a third time zone making it perfect for measuring flight times during global travel. Breitling pieces are designed to withstand intensive usage in tough conditions, are water-resistant, glare-proof and scratch-resistant. The red-tipped hand keeps track of home time in 24-hour mode, thereby making it easy to distinguish between day and night. This 100-piece limited edition has an impressive 70-hour power reserve and an imposing 46mm diameter. www.breilting.com
DESIRABLES | THE PRESENT | 025
TUDOR Heritage Black Bay The Heritage Back Bay family welcomes its first chronograph in three impressive variations TUDOR has always produced watches that are closely tied to motorsport and professional diving. This hybrid chronograph combines the aquatic heritage with the racetrack. The 41mm steel case with date aperture at 6 o’clock features is engraved with a tachymetric scale and includes a 70-hour power reserve. This movement is the result of a recent collaboration between TUDOR and Breitling, which now pool their expertise in the design and production of certain mechanical movements. www.tudorwatch.com
Longines Conquest V.H.P. In 1954, Longines developed a quartz clock, which set a long series of precision records. It was housed in the mythical ChronocinĂŠgines, an instrument that became a pioneer in the history of timekeeping It provided judges with a film strip composed of a series of prints at 1/100th of a second, allowing them to follow the movement of athletes at the moment they crossed the finish line. In 1969, Longines revealed the Ultra-Quartz, the first quartz wristwatch conceived to be mass-produced. A huge stride was made in 1984 with the quartz calibre fitted in the Conquest V.H.P., setting a precision record for that time. The Conquest V.H.P. is equipped with a movement developed by the
ETA manufacturing company exclusively for Longines. This movement is renowned for its high degree of precision for an analogue watch (Âą five s/ yr) and its ability to reset its hands after an impact or exposure to a magnetic field, using the GPD (gear position detection) system. These steel watches are available in 41 and 43mm diameter cases with a chronograph in 42 and 44mm diameter versions. On each model, changes are made using the intelligent crown, while the EOL indicator can preventatively signal the end of battery life. The Conquest V.H.P. collection models are available in blue, carbon, silver or black dials, all with steel bracelet with a folding safety clasp. www.longines.com
DESIRABLES | THE PRESENT | 027
Porsche Design Monobloc Actuator The watchmakers at Porsche Design Timepieces AG have collaborated with the designers at Studio F. A. Porsche and the engineers at Porsche Development Centre to develop this line The result? An unprecedented feat of literally engineering the chronograph’s buttons seamlessly into the case of the watch. Like the valves in the racing engine of the 911 RSR, this mechanism provides precision, dependability and continual, reliable protection
against moisture penetration throughout operation. This means the stopwatch function of this chronograph, which is pressure-resistant to 10 bar, remains operational underwater. This version comes in a 45.5mm titanium case, the staple material for the brand since 1980, and is available with a matte black or a deep blue sunburst-dial, rubber or all-titanium bracelet. www.porsche-design.com
TAG Heuer Autavia The legendary driver’s chronograph from the ‘60s has made a comeback in 2017 Autavia is a contraction of AUTomobile and AVIAtion and celebrates its 55th anniversary with an updated neo-retro successor in homage to the golden age of motor racing. This model is the result of an interactive campaign with more than 50,000 web users voting for a reissue of the Autavia ‘Rindt’ worn by Jochen Rindt, one of history’s greatest F1 drivers. The black dial, three white counters, straight hands and polished steel baton indexes with luminescent inserts is 42mm in diameter, boasts a power reserve of 80 hours, date at 6 o’clock and is water-resistant to 100m. www.tagheuer.com
DESIRABLES | THE PRESENT | 029
Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Zenith is the acknowledged champion of high-frequency chronographs due to its legendary El Primero movement. The brand has taken a quantum leap in performance and engineering by ramping up the timing from tenths to hundredths of a second. The central chronograph hand performs a full turn of the dial in one second. This simple direct reading of the hundredths provides an opportunity to grasp the reality of a second being measured. The frequency reaches 360,000 vibrations/hour ensuring its hundredth of a second precision. To avoid any risk of the chronograph interfering with the running of the watch, it is equipped with two independent ‘gearboxes’: one for the time and the other for the chronograph. Each has its own transmission and escapement system and there is no coupling clutch. The 50-hour power reserve is matched by a 50-minute autonomy for the hundredth of a second chronograph and comes in three variations that include two in titanium with different finishes and a ceramicised aluminium option, all displaying the mesmerising open-worked dial. It is insensitive to magnetic fields and temperature gradients, 44mm in diameter, 14,50mm thick, water-resistant to 100m and comes with a black rubber with alligator leather coating strap. An absolutely stunning piece of horological machinery; one of the finest of the year. www.zenith-watches.com
TIMEPIECES OF DISTINCTION The L.U.C collection, handcrafted since 1860 for distinguished gentlemen. A truly individual statement in time.
L.U.C TIME TRAVELER ONE (161942-5001), MANUFACTURE CALIBRE L.U.C 01.05-L AUTOMATIC
B O U T IQ U E H A U T E HOR LO G E R I E
For further information contact Architects of Time (011) 669 0790
032 | FINAL MOMENT | INNOVATION
The Swiss show their ‘metal’ ACCORDING TO THE WEF’S GLOBAL COMPETITIVENESS REPORT, SWITZERLAND IS RANKED NUMBER ONE ON THE COMPETITIVENESS INDEX. IT IS A SOPHISTICATED INNOVATIONDRIVEN ECONOMY AND TOPS THE GLOBAL INDEXES IN TECHNOLOGICAL READINESS, LABOUR MARKET EFFICIENCY, BUSINESS SOPHISTICATION AND INNOVATION. BOOOOORING, BUT BEAR WITH ME...
SILINVAR IS, AMONG MANY OTHER MORE TECHNICAL THINGS: • A third of the mass of steel, moved with less energy and less affected by gravity yet twice as hard as steel. • Unable to be magnetised and is insensitive to magnetic fields • Shock-resistant and always rebounds to its original shape The Patek Philippe 2017 Aquanaut Travel Time has incorporated some of this tech in this limited edition of 500 watches.
Sounds like sci-fi Silinvar was predestined for applications in watchmaking. A patented oxidation process changes the molecular design in its outer layers, giving it temperature-compensating properties. As such, components made from Silinvar are unaffected by temperatures ranging between -10°C and +60°C. Dudes in white coats Collaborative research projects between Patek Philippe, Rolex and the Swatch Group together with the CSEM (a research and development centre specialising in nano- and microtechnology, microelectronics, systems engineering and communication technologies) in Neuchâtel led to the development of Silinvar, a novel, patented material based on monocrystalline silicon.
Unique feature On trips across several time zones, the local time hour hand can be adjusted forward or backward in one-hour steps. In the process, the day/night indicators and, if applicable, the date are also changed. When the owner is headed east, the local time is set with the pusher at 8 o’clock. The pusher at 10 o’clock corrects the local time on westbound trips. In other words, its aahsome.
EDDIE R E DM AY N E ’ S CHOICE SEAMASTER AQUA TERRA MASTER CHRONOMETER