24H Issue 9

WATCH SUPPLEMENT TO JOBURG STYLE MAGAZINE

ELEGANCE TRADITION PERFORMANCE AT LONGINES, NOTHING VENTURED, IS NOTHING GAINED

Master Control Date Automatic Calibre Jaeger-LeCoultre 899/1 219 pieces, 28.800 beats per hour

Available at

Conquest V.H.P.

ISSUE 9 | CONTENTS 10

THE PAST 185 years and counting

From its base in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, Longines has established itself as one of the worlds foremost watch brands

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THE PRESENT Showpieces

The latest release out of Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie Genève and more “Another day another dollar daylight comes I’m on my way Another day another dollar workin’ my whole life away The boss told me I’d get paid weakly and that’s exactly how I’m paid Another day another dollar ...”

The first time I heard these lines, I was working in a dental laboratory in Arizona (don’t ask... I was young and I needed the money). I greeted an elderly female colleague, asking her how she was and this is how she responded. Didn’t mean much at the time, but as another year passes with greater effort required, you start to get it.

I loved putting every page of this magazine together, but I’m frightfully ready for a break. No need for concern that I’ll go postal or anything, as long as the 15th of December comes soon.

The watch world is fresh from its marquee awards event, the 2017 Grand Prix de l¹Horlogerie de Genève. The Longines Avigation BigEye on our

EDITORIAL BOARD Editor & Publisher ERIC BORNMAN eric@ballyhoomedia.co.za Creative Direction & Design STEVE MACBETH Copy Editing SHARON PRESTON sharon@ballyhoomedia.co.za Proofreading LYNNE YATES | LOREN SHIRLEY-CARR Distribution ON THE DOT Printed by CREDA

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THE FUTURE Confluence of craftsmanship The Classic Fusion pays homage to wonderful cigars and fine timepieces

cover won the Revival Prize – more about it on p10.

Bulgari took honours in two categories. These 2017 novelties are very special. We feature them on p25.

Congratulations to all the winners. One of my favourite collaborations of 2017 is the Hublot Artur Fuente partnership – cigars and watches; what more do you want? (don’t answer that…).

I’m chasing a classic white Christmas this year over in ye ol’ London. Might pop past the New Bond Street Panerai Boutique and put it in a bid on a one-off Bronzo. Check out our back page story.

January is Salon International De La Haute Horlogerie (SIHH for those of us in the biz, or if you, like me, can’t pronounce it), where 2018 starts off with more amazing novelties from the geniuses that bring us these horological creations. A nod of appreciation from us all for the beauty and awe that you inspire.

See you in March for our annual Baselworld preview. Have a blessed Christmas and a fine New Year. Another day, another dollar…

Published by BALLYHOO MEDIA Company Reg No 2007/207595/23 14 Sixth Street, Parkhurst, Johannesburg, South Africa, 2193 PO Box 3125, Parklands, 2121 Tel: 086 111 4626 Fax: 086 670 6429

FINAL MOMENT All aboard

A unique Sotheby’s auction to celebrate the opening of Officine Panerai’s first stand-alone boutique in the UK

FROM THE EDITOR

Cover watch The Longines Avigation BigEye

24H is published quarterly by Ballyhoo Media. Opinions expressed in 24H are not necessarily those of Ballyhoo Media.

No responsibility can be accepted for errors, as all information is believed to be correct at the time of going to print. Copyright subsists in all work in this magazine. Any reproduction or adaptation, in whole or in part, without written permission from the publishers is strictly prohibited and is an act of copyright infringement that may, in certain circumstances, constitute a criminal offence.

rado.com

Rado TRue open HeaRT HigH-tecH ceramic and motHer of pearl. SeriouSly irreSiStible.

time iS tHe eSSence We are made of

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The site was known locally as Les Longines and he adopted this name for the factory which he built there in 1867

The Longines factory in 1950

The technical research carried out at Longines was rewarded with various prizes; this gave the company a reputation for winning the most awards in international and world exhibitions. By the time the 1929 exhibition in Barcelona took place, Longines had won no fewer than 10 Grand Prix. In 1889, Francillon patented a trademark comprising the name Longines and its famous winged hourglass.

Today, Longines is the oldest trademark or logo still in use in its original form and registered with the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO). www.longines.com

THE LONGINES AVIGATION BIGEYE Grand Winner of the Prize ‘Revival’: 2017 Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève Reinterpreting classics is a slippery slope. But when a specialised jury of your peers recognises your effort on the biggest stage of all, it merits one of Hannibal Smith’s grinning cigar-puffing moments , basking in the glory of a plan that came together.

The Avigation BigEye is the first piece from the Longines stable to appear on our cover. We pay tribute to this iconic Swiss watch brand with this deserved reward to its ‘nothing ventured, nothing gained’ approach.

The Avigation BigEye is a reinterpretation of a 1930s chronograph that keeps with the great tradition of pilot watches. The 41mm diameter case houses a column wheel chronograph movement produced exclusively for Longines. Its semi-glossy black dial is decorated with Arabic numerals coated with SuperLuminova© and subsequently highly readable. The oversized 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock brings a touch of originality to this model while impressive push buttons enable the wearer to handle them while wearing gloves, as pilots do. A domed crystal and a brown leather watch strap add a vintage feel.

013 | THE PAST | LONGINES

WALTER VON KÄNEL 24H had the privilege of interviewing Walter von Känel, President of Longines, at Baselworld earlier in the year; an affable, resolute and focused businessman, as one would expect a global leader of his stature to be. Endearingly, he is still a huge fan of his brand, much like the little boy that, while growing up in the Saint-Imier Valley where the company is based, knew he would one day make a big impact in the watch world.

He was wearing a Conquest VHP, one of my favourite 2017 novelties, and it wasn’t long before the script was out the window and we were just talking watches.

Having started off at the company in 1969 as a Sales executive, he rose through the ranks and was President 19 years later. Switzerland is the world’s most competitive nation according to the World Bank’s Annual Global Competitiveness report. To run a global watch company you need guts, focus, industry know-how and passion.

Having subsequently learnt that Mr von Känel, like Hannibal Smith, also carries the rank of Colonel (in the Swiss Army just to drive the point home), I can’t help but sit here picturing him receiving this award, savouring the company’s 185-year birthday and exclaiming the same infamous phrase: ‘I love it when a plan comes together!’

014 | THE PRESENT | DESIRABLES

Showpieces

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time The traveller-dedicated Overseas Dual Time flaunts a distinctive six-sided bezel inspired by the brand’s Maltese cross emblem. It will be unveiled at SIHH 2018.

The hour hand indicates the local time zone corresponding to the user’s current location, while the hand tipped with a triangular arrow shows the time in a reference time zone (‘home time’). A 12-hour display along with a day/night indication is set to home time, while the date display adjusts via a screw-lock pusher at 4 o’clock. It is synchronised with local time. The 234-component movement has a 60-hour power reserve due to its twin barrel.

The 41mm-diameter stainless steel case is water-resistant to 150 metres. The lacquered dial and luminescent gold hands are elegant and suitable for any occasion.

This model is available in three versions: stainless steel with blue dial or silver-toned dial or an 18-carat pink gold case with silver-toned dial. The strap is available in alligator leather or a second option in rubber (brown, black or blue). http://sihh.vacheron-constantin.com

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Control THESE TIMEPIECES WERE CREATED IN CELEBRATION OF 25 YEARS SINCE THE MASTER CONTROL’S FIRST UNVEILING. TRUE TO ITS CLASSIC, CLEAN AND ROUNDED DESIGN HERITAGE, JAEGERLECOULTRE PRESENTS THREE NEW MODELS: MASTER CONTROL DATE, THE MASTER CHRONOGRAPH AND THE MASTER GEOGRAPHIC. ALL THREE MODELS ARE FINISHED WITH A BLUE ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

Master Control Date

The emblematic 6, 9, and 12 numerals are retained but the 3 makes way for a date indication, a ‘must’ in watchmaking in our opinion. The 39mm case is elegant but just as fitting for a working day as for dressier occasions. The watch has a 38-hour power reserve and water resistance to 50 metres.

017 | THE PRESENT | DESIRABLES

Master Chronograph

The two push-pieces are housed on a 40mm case.

The two-counter chronograph is thicker and bigger and sports a power reserve of 65 hours.

Master Geographic

The Master Geographic incorporates a second time zone. The aperture in the lower section of the dial displays the names of 24 world cities, representing all the time zones. A crown set at 10 o’clock on the case makes adjusting the indicator of this second time zone very simple.

Power reserve is 43 hours.

The watch includes a 24-hour indication in a 39mm diameter case.

Sea-Dweller

Rolex introduced the latest generation of its Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, a legend among professional divers, in celebration of its 50th year in production. This Sea-Dweller model features a larger, 43mm case in steel which is employed for the first time in a Rolex Professional category watch.

To enhance the reading of the date, it is equipped, also for the first time, with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock. The name Sea-Dweller appears in red, a reference to the very first 1976 model. The 60-minute graduated, unidirectional rotatable bezel enables divers to monitor their dive and decompression times. The patented black Cerachrom bezel insert, manufactured by Rolex, is virtually scratchproof.

The timepiece has an approximate power reserve of 70 hours and, fittingly, is waterproof to 1,220 metres.

019 | THE PRESENT | DESIRABLES

Rolex TWO NEW REITERATIONS OF CLASSIC PIECES WERE UNVEILED AT BASELWORLD 2017 AND ARE NOW AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRICA. HAPPY 50TH SEA-DWELLER! www.rolex.com

Datejust 41

The steel version of Rolex’s newgeneration Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 features a white Rolesor combination of steel and white gold and an 18-carat white gold fluted bezel. A wide selection of dials is available, all equipped with the redesigned 41mm case. The new Datejust 41 is a feast of technology through no less than 14 patents and a power reserve of 70 hours. Like all Rolex watches, this model carries the Superlative Chronometer certification.

The Datejust design spans eras but retains the enduring codes that make it one of the most recognised of watches, the Rolesor being a signature feature since 1933. It is waterproof to 100 metres.

020 | THE PRESENT | DESIRABLES

Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Day & Night

The Rotonde de Cartier lends its generous size to two historic Cartier complications: the mysterious movement and the Day/Night indicator, both dating from 1912. Cartier now brings these two complications together for the first time in a beautiful 40mm 18-carat pink gold case with a grey alligator skin strap.

The sun, driven from left to right by the mysterious movement, appears to levitate in the top half of the dial, before handing over to the moon. The sun and moon, in turn, indicate the hours of the day and night when the retrograde minutes are displayed in the bottom half of the dial. This airborne reading of the time is magnified by the juxtaposition of the radiating guilloché and satin-brushed sunray finish on the dial. Also available in white gold.

Cartier NEW ELEMENTS HAVE BEEN INTRODUCED INTO ICONIC CARTIER COMPLICATIONS. THESE STUNNING PIECES WILL BE OFFICIALLY REVEALED AT THE 2018 SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE IN JANUARY. www.cartier.com

Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon

The Mysterious Double Tourbillon movement represents a milestone in Cartier watchmaking history: the tourbillon appears to be suspended in mid-air with no connection to the rest of the movement. As a double flying tourbillon, it effects a complete rotation in 60 seconds, while the tourbillon cage performs a second rotation in which each round takes five minutes. This balancing act is all the more formidable in view of the finely crafted 45mm platinum case. All of the components are hand-finished: the bridges chamfered, flanks drawn and screw heads polished. This year’s addition of skeletonised bridges is in the shape of Roman numerals enhancing the lightness and power of the watch.

Perfectly finished with a wavy blue alligator skin strap, it is limited to 30 numbered pieces. It is slso available in platinum with baguette-cut diamond paved bezel.

Hublot Big Bang Unico World Poker Tour Limited Edition The union between Hublot and the World Poker Tour started in 2014 when the brand took on the role of both timekeeper and official watch.

Think high roller meets high-end lifestyle. The winner of this year’s Chinese leg will walk away with one of these 188 limited edition pieces.

The 45mm black ceramic case integrates subtle elements of poker into its design such as the sandblasted hearts, clubs, spades and diamonds. Seven rubies decorate the eighth index, representing luck and prosperity in the Chinese tradition.

The watch has a power reserve of 72 hours with a black rubber and alligator strap and striking red stitching. It is water-resistant to 100 metres (in case your opponent calls your all-in bluff and you try to drown yourself!). www.hublot.com

DESIRABLES | THE PRESENT | 023

IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Chronograph – Tribute to Nico Rosberg The 18-carat red gold case was designed by Rosberg in collaboration with Christian Knoop, IWC Creative Director. The special see-through sapphire-glass back, printed with the ‘NICO’ lettering, is from Rosberg’s helmet.

Limited to 23 watches, the piece recalls the 2016 Formula One world champion’s 23 Grand Prix wins.

The dial is slate-coloured and the hands are gold-plated with a bidirectional pawl-winding system generating a power reserve of 46 hours. The Ingenieur is fitted with a grey calfskin strap and will be available in IWC boutiques and authorised retailers from December 2017. Water-resistant to 120 metres with a diameter of 42mm. www.iwc.com

Octo Finissimo Automatic

The Octo Finissimo Automatic was launched at Baselworld 2017. It is the world record-breaking thinnest self-winding watch on the market, measuring just 5.15mm thick, 40mm in diameter and housing a 2.23mm self-winding movement. It won the Men’s Watch Prize at Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in November.

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon

The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton open-worked watch took honours in the Tourbillon & Escapement category. It is driven by an ultra-thin, open-worked tourbillon comprising 253 parts, 13 jewels and eight ball bearings that reduce the overall thickness of the calibre.

025 | THE PRESENT | DESIRABLES

Bulgari THE OCTO RANGE IS ESTABLISHING ITSELF AS ONE OF THE MOST POWERFUL ARCHETYPES IN THE WATCH SCENE’S FIELD OF EXTREME SLENDERNESS. www.bulgari.com

Octo Grande Sonnerie

One of the ultimate expressions in grand horological tradition is the chiming watch. Within this exclusive realm, Bulgari’s new Grande Sonnerie model combines tradition with a contemporary approach through the use of its famous Octo case. Driven by a self-winding calibre, it performs the Grande and Petite Sonnerie, Minute Repeater and Westminster Chime functions.

The brand’s current range of creations include models with two, three and four hammers and gongs, the latter category being the rarest. Only a handful of Maisons are capable of mastering this, with varying degrees of success and within a generally classical overall approach. The complex Grande Sonnerie mechanism, which includes a tourbillon, is made from titanium with a case diameter of 44mm.

The case back is fitted with sapphire crystal revealing the tourbillon.

The challenge of any chiming watch is to guarantee a perfectly audible and clear sound. This depends not only on the movement, but also on its integration within the case. The Octo Grande Sonnerie includes a ‘sound box’ which optimises the sound through amplification.

The Grande Sonnerie mode is activated 35,040 times a year, the hammers striking the gongs 433,580 times. In Petite Sonnerie mode, the hammers strike 262,760 times. Octo Grande Sonnerie is a one-off edition.

Features include a 48-hour power reserve indicator for the movement; power reserve indicator for the striking mechanism; 82 jewels, waterresistance to 30 metres and an rubber-coated alligator leather strap.

A masterpiece.

DiaMaster Power Reserve

Rado presents a quartet of eye-catching timepieces for gents and ladies. The high-tech ceramic construction, a hallmark of Rado’s innovative brand DNA, offers everyday good looks, scratch resistance, lightweight comfort and style.

The two versions of the automatic DiaMaster Power Reserve in 43mm are available in either polished black or plasma ceramic. Both feature sunray detailing on the dial. The timepiece shines in either black or blue, with a power reserve indicator situated at 9 o’ clock. It is engineering to last up to an impressive 80 hours.

Rado EDGY, COOL AND EVERYDAY. THESE NEW PIECES BY RADO ARE AS READY TO WEAR AS YOUR FAVOURITE PAIR OF JEANS. www.rado.com

027 | THE PRESENT | DESIRABLES

HyperChrome Captain Cook

The reinterpretation offers a family of three varieties for men and women. The two 37mm models feature oversized indexes, chunky arrow-shaped hands and a rotating bezel in high-tech ceramic and stainless or carbon diffused steel. The iteration for ladies features a silvery raised dial studded with eight Top Wesselton diamonds, a white high-tech ceramic bezel and fine-knit metal Milanese band that combine for a luxurious but sporty look. The gent’s versions boast darker colour schemes, one in a brown colour scheme with vintage leather strap and a stunning blue colour scheme 45mm model in a textile strap.

It features 80 hours power reserve, waterresistant to 100 metres and limited to 1,962 pieces.

029 | THE FUTURE | HUBLOT

arlito Fuente, CEO of the Tabacalera Arturo Fuente y CompaĂąia, descendant of founder Arturo Fuente, is pictured here wearing a limited edition tribute piece specially presented by Hublot.

This limited edition Classic Fusion pays homage to the finesse and artisanship required to make wonderful cigars and fine timepieces.

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CONFLUENCE OF CRAFTSMANSHIP The two brands have been collaborating since the centenary of Arturo Fuente cigars in 2012 through various charitable initiatives to help the Dominican population. Fuente has survived many challenges since its founding in Cuba circa 1912, not least of which was a forced departure to the Domincan Republic following the arrival of the Castroists. Today the brand has surpassed the best of Cuban producers.

The Classic Fusion 45mm-diameter case in brushed titanium finish and blue tinted dial.

030 | THE FUTURE | HUBLOT

Thickness: 10.95mm

Water resistance: 5 ATM (50m)

Power reserve: 42 hours

ABOVE: The Classic Fusion 45mmdiameter case in King Gold.

BELOW: The bronze finish with green tinted dials.

The Classic Fusion 45mmdiameter case is available in three finishes. It is pictured above in King Gold that combines gold and ceramic in a unique alloy with a beautifully engraved bezel and crown. The case presents a drawing of tobacco leaves and the bezel incorporates the letter ‘X’, emblem of the Fuente family.

The back of the watch is engraved with an illustration evoking Güines, the town in the province of Havana where the Fuente family hails from. This burgundy dial is finished with a rubberlined alligator skin. The King Gold piece will be limited to 50 pieces.

The second and third variations are available in brushed titanium and bronze. Both feature the same fine chasings as the King Gold model but with blue and green tinted dials and matching straps. One hundred numbered pieces will be produced of each.

TAG Heuer Boutiques; Sandton City & V&A Waterfront. Also at selected fine jewellers nationwide. For further information please call 011.669.0500. www.picotandmoss.co.za

TAG HEUER CARRERA RED BULL RACING SPECIAL EDITION

TAG Heuer is the Official Timekeeper and Team Performance Partner of Red Bull Racing.

Two teams who #DontCrackUnderPressure both on and off the track.

032 | FINAL MOMENT | OFFICINE PANERAI

All Aboard OFFICINE PANERAI TO AUCTION A ONE-OF-A-KIND LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE BRONZE TIMEPIECE IN PARTNERSHIP WITH SOTHEBY’S

The bronze used to make the case is an alloy of copper and pure tin, which is highly resistant to seawater and atmospheric agents.

n celebration of Officine Panerai’s first stand-alone boutique in the UK, a unique one-of-a-kind bronze timepiece, the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo - 47mm, will be auctioned exclusively online from 30 November until 15 December. During this time, bidders will also be able to view the watch on display at Sotheby’s. The winner will be invited to the 30 New Bond

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Street boutique where they will be welcomed by the Head Watchmaker to discover the intricacies of the timepiece.

Created by the celebrated architect and designer Patricia Urquiola, the boutique will be the second largest in Europe after Panerai’s flagship store in Florence, extending over an area of 150 square metres and displaying collections to enthusiasts and collectors across two floors. The boutique will be one of the few to house

a specialist watchmaker who will be permanently based on site.

This piece is inspired by the brand’s historic creations for the Royal Italian Navy.

The bronze used to make the case is an alloy of copper and pure tin, which is highly resistant to seawater and atmospheric agents. As much as it is structurally very strong, the material has a warm tone and a ‘worn’ look perfectly complemented by

the deep brown dial and brown leather strap.

All proceeds from the auction will be donated to the Royal Yachting Association to support its charitable sailing programme, ‘OnBoard’, which promotes equal access to sailing for young people from all social and economic backgrounds whilst encouraging their character development. The funds will provide sailing boats and equipment for youngsters of all ages and abilities.

3 Year Warranty Attitude www.luxco.co.za | (011) 448 2210

EDDIE R E DM AY N E ’ S CHOICE SEAMASTER AQUA TERRA MASTER CHRONOMETER