24H Issue 12

WATCH SUPPLEMENT TO JOBURG STYLE MAGAZINE

Beauty extends beyond the bounds of time and generations KAIA GERBER FOR OMEGA

D E S I G N A N D T EC H N I C A L I N N OVAT I O N .

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TE MPE RATURE UN D E R H I G H P RESSURE B RIN G THE N E W LUM IN OR SUB M ERSIB LE 1950 CARBOTECHTM TO LIFE,

IN A COMBINATION OF HIGH-TECH, HIGH-PERFORMANCE

MATE RIAL AN D A UNIQUE , TIMELESS DESIGN.

LU M I N O R S U B M E R S I B L E 1 9 50 CA R B OT EC H T M 3 D AYS A U TO M AT I C - 4 7 M M ( R E F. 6 1 6 )

PA N E R A I . C O M

Elegance is an attitude Kate Winslet

Record collection

ISSUE 12 | CONTENTS 18

12

THE PAST Master Crafts

THE PRESENT Showpieces

Introducing two of Patek Philippe’s rare handcrafts; one-of-akind pieces produced in 2018.

The latest releases from SIHH, Baselworld and more.

26

30

Glashütte Original’s Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking aims to nurture fresh talent.

Hublot creates an online digital store for better and unique service.

THE FUTURE Securing the future of the craft

THE FUTURE Digital Boutique

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FINAL MOMENT Ultra speedy

Omega Speedmaster 42mm ‘Ultraman’ is a speedy sell-out.

What a pleasure putting together another edition, especially so when I transcend the confounds of my desk and put myself in the shoes of an avid watch fan deriving a moment of joy and connection with a finely crafted item. I am, of course, referring to the moment captured on our cover.

Model Kaia Gerber’s moment of joy and appreciation is exactly the reason why we publish this magazine. Sure, she was paid to do this shoot and her mom, ex-supermodel Cindy Crawford, has been a longstanding ambassador for Omega. But, the contrived nature of photo shoots aside, I still can’t help but smile because I totally relate to this moment when I appreciate a fine piece of watchmaking.

If the rare handcrafts by Patek Philippe on page 12, the masterpieces on pages 18 to 25, and the traditions of old merging with the innovations of new don’t put at least a half-smile on your face, you’re reading the wrong magazine.

FROM THE EDITOR Cover watch Trésor Quartz 36mm

by Omega

Enjoy the issue.

Eric EDITORIAL BOARD Editor & Publisher ERIC BORNMAN eric@ballyhoomedia.co.za Creative Direction & Design STEVE MACBETH Copy Editing SHARON PRESTON sharon@ballyhoomedia.co.za Proofreading LYNNE YATES | LOREN SHIRLEY-CARR Distribution ON THE DOT Printed by CREDA

Published by BALLYHOO MEDIA Company Reg No 2007/207595/23 14 Sixth Street, Parkhurst, Johannesburg, South Africa, 2193 PO Box 3125, Parklands, 2121 Tel: 086 111 4626 Fax: 086 670 6429

24H is published quarterly by Ballyhoo Media. Opinions expressed in 24H are not necessarily those of Ballyhoo Media.

No responsibility can be accepted for errors, as all information is believed to be correct at the time of going to print. Copyright subsists in all work in this magazine. Any reproduction or adaptation, in whole or in part, without written permission from the publishers is strictly prohibited and is an act of copyright infringement that may, in certain circumstances, constitute a criminal offence.

Master Craft

PATEK PHILIPPE | THE PAST | 013

PATEK PHILIPPE HAS BEEN PERPETUATING THE TRADITION OF SWISS WATCHMAKING FOR ALMOST 180 YEARS. AS THE LAST FAMILY-OWNED INDEPENDENT WATCH MANUFACTURER IN GENEVA, THE BRAND ENJOYS TOTAL CREATIVE FREEDOM TO DESIGN, PRODUCE AND ASSEMBLE WHAT EXPERTS AGREE TO BE THE FINEST TIMEPIECES IN THE WORLD. HERE ARE TWO OF PATEK PHILIPPE’S RARE HANDCRAFTS, ONE-OF-A-KIND PIECES, PRODUCED IN 2018.

THE GALLEON POCKET WATCH The conquest of the oceans are intimately linked to the rise of horology. This connection comes to life on the engraved back of this unique white gold pocket watch.

The galleon with its sterncastle, cannons and sails is depicted on a background representing an old nautical chart. A master engraver used a traditional technique called ‘low-relief engraving’, tinted with black rhodium by oxidation to accentuate contrasts and depth. The bezel, the border of the case back and the bow are engraved with a pattern resembling cordage. Hand-engraving the case back, the bezel and the bow took a total of 230 hours.

The white enamel over white gold dial is decorated with white gold-applied Breguet numerals and hand-engraved hands. It is accompanied by a white gold-handcrafted stand with decorations suggesting ropes, pulleys and cleats.

Diameter: 44.1mm. Height: 9.15mm.

014 | THE PAST | PATEK PHILIPPE

CUBIST FANTASY This Patek Philippe dome table clock in cloisonnĂŠ enamel was inspired by the finest works of cubism, a major artistic movement of the early 20th century, Tracing the complex pattern of geometric forms that comprise this original creation required 13.5m of gold wire (15g) measuring only 0.15 x 0.6mm in cross-section.

To create the chromatic fireworks, also inspired by the cubist artists, the enameller worked with a palette of 51 transparent enamel colours, producing subtle effects of light, contrast and shading.

Each enamelled plate called for nine firings at a temperature of approximately 840°C. Breguet hands point to an hour circle gilded with black-enamelled Breguet numerals. The dial centre is hand-guilloched in a swirling pattern beneath blue enamel, through which the decoration may be seen.

Diameter: 128mm. Height: 213.5mm

MASTER OF MATERIALS

Johannesburg | Pretoria | Durban www.arthurkaplan.co.za

RADO.COM

RADO TRUE OPEN HEART PLASMA HIGH-TECH CERAMIC. METALLIC LOOK. MODERN ALCHEMY.

018 | THE PRESENT | DESIRABLES

Showpieces

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph The sporty and contemporary Aquanaut collection features its first chronograph. The 42mm steel case, water resistant to 120m, houses a self-winding fly-back chronograph movement that combines tradition and innovation.

The 60-minute counter echoes the typical contours of the slightly rounded octagonal bezel while an orange chronograph display (large chronograph hand, quarter-second divisions of the peripheral railway track minute scale, 60-minute counter) contrasts attractively against the black dial with the typical Aquanaut embossed pattern.

The piece features a standard issue black strap, a striking orange version with fold-over clasp and four independent catches.

The power reserve ranges between 45 and 55 hours. www.patek.com

Rolex Deepsea This professional divers’ watch features a 44mm case and Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock folding safety clasp. It is at the forefront of watchmaking technology.

The blue dial with a deep-blue to pitch-black gradient was launched in 2014 in tribute to the DEEPSEA CHALLENGE expedition.

On this journey, Rolex, the National Geographic Society and filmmaker explorer James Cameron descended 10,908m to the ocean’s deepest point, located in the Mariana Trench.

Waterproof to 3,900m, this Oyster case was developed to ensure phenomenal resistance to pressure without compromising the watch’s size and thickness. The watch features the Ringlock System, a three-piece patented case architecture made up of a domed 5.5mm-thick sapphire crystal, a high-performance nitrogen-alloyed stainless steel ring and a case back in Oystersteel and grade 5 titanium. This allows the Deepsea to withstand the colossal pressure exerted at extreme depths. The Triplock winding crown, equipped with three seals, screws down securely against the case, ensuring the system is completely waterproof and guaranteeing watertight security akin to a submarine’s hatch.

The case is also equipped with a helium escape valve, allowing excess pressure built up in the watchcase to escape during a diver’s decompression phase in a hyperbaric chamber.

The unidirectional rotatable bezel is fitted with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert in black ceramic that allows monitoring of underwater and decompression time. The power reserve has been extended to approximately 70 hours. www.rolex.com

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Tourbillon Duoface To mark its 185th anniversary, Jaeger-LeCoultre has combined a flying tourbillon with the Duoface concept. This limited edition will be kept to 50 unique pieces of watchmaking expertise. It follows in the footsteps of iconic models such as the Hybris Mechanica 11 and Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon.

The concept of reversibility has been an inexhaustible source of inspiration for Jaeger-LeCoultre. The design of the Duoface has been completely revamped, resulting in an entirely new layout so that all the various components can fit into a platinum case measuring a mere 9.15mm.

A blue sunrayed dial and silvered hand-applied hour-markers adorn the front. On the opposite side, the grained dial and Côtes de Genève finishes make the perfect housing for emblematic functions such as a second time zone, small seconds, or a day/night indicator discreetly positioned at 2 o’clock. Both sides bear the same flying tourbillon. The timepiece is water resistant to 30m. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

DESIRABLES | THE PRESENT | 021

Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite The Senator Cosmopolite is designed to meet the complex demands of a world traveller. First introduced in 2015 in red and white gold versions, it is now also available in stainless steel. Its innovative time zone mechanism displays the time at home and destination in each of the 35 world time zones currently in use.

Two windows are positioned in the curve of the dial at 8 o’clock, indicating the destination in the form of IATA codes for international airports in one of three colours, taking Daylight Saving and Standard Time into account. The day/night display with a small sun and stylised sky is positioned at 9 o’clock.

The 44mm diameter stainless steel case features alternately satinbrushed and highly polished surfaces, finished by a dark blue alligator leather strap and featuring a power reserve of at least 72 hours. www.glashuette-original.com

022 | THE PRESENT | DESIRABLES

TUDOR GMT Tudor is expanding its Black Bay line with a multiple time-zone function known as GMT. GMT establishes local time without losing sight of the time in two other time zones. The 2018 Tuor GMT is instantly recognisable by its rotatable Pepsi bezel, derived from the blue and burgundy coloured theme.

Additional time zones are indicated by a red Snowflake hand, an aesthetic hallmark of Tudor, which spins around the dial in 24 hours, as well as a bidirectional rotatable bezel that is calibrated for 24 hours. The 12 daylight hours are printed on the burgundy section and the night-time hours on the blue. With a steel case, 41mm in diameter, the Black Bay GMT model is waterproof to 200m and designed to withstand the elements.

Its winding crown tube is in satin-brushed steel, new for the Black Bay line. The contrasting black dial makes it legible in all conditions, including night-time, thanks to its luminescent hour markers. The dial features a GMT marker at 6 o’clock. www.tudorwatch.com

Longines Legend Diver Watch The Longines Legend Diver Watch is a reimagined version of the 1960s diving watch. Its indexes, numerals and hands, gilded with Super LumiNova, pop from the black lacquered dial for optimal legibility. This are further enhanced by the plain, clean typeface used for the numerals 6, 9 and 12.

The 42mm steel case is coated with a layer of black PVD, and contains an automatic mechanical movement exclusive to Longines, with the illustration of a diver engraved on the screw-down back. The Milanese-style black rubber strap is equipped with a folding titanium clasp treated with black PVD and an integrated diving extension. www.longines.com

024 | THE PRESENT | DESIRABLES

Breitling Navitimer Super 8 The Breitling Navitimer Super 8 was inspired by the Reference 637, a stopwatch that Second World War bomber pilots in the 1930s and 1940s wore strapped to their thighs for optimal readability and ease of use. The Navitimer Super 8 expresses the design elements of the Reference 637 in a big, bold wristwatch.

The crown was located on the left side of the case, its size and positioning meant for the gloved hand of an aviator. The new watch’s 46mm case is available in titanium with military green dial or stainless steel in a black dial, presented on a brown NATO leather strap.

The hour and minute hands are luminescent, making it easy to read in all lighting conditions.

The automatic movement delivers a power reserve of over 70 hours and is water-resistant to 30m. www.breitling.com

U-BOAT Doppio Tempo Doppio Tempo means ‘double-time’ in Italian, a concept inspired by the demands of modern day life. Italo Fontana’s latest double time zone creation is now also presented in a steel version with chronograph movement. It’s sporty without neglecting the soul of one of Italy’s most famous watch brands.

The 46mm steel case, water-resistant to 100m, is enhanced with sapphire glass, which increases its strength, while the case back is cut into a U-shape, allowing a glimpse of the automatic movement.

The black dial, composed of three superimposed levels, is equipped with four counters, one indicating the 24 hours of the day. Numeration and hands are in brushed metal with a white Super Luminova filling.

The case is equipped with U-BOAT’s patented crown release system for adjusting the date and time. The lock release lever is located on the right side to set the second time. The black leather strap is worked and finished by hand, with waterproof lining and steel barb closure. www.uboatwatch.com

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT Automatic Runabout Since 2009, Frederique Constant has collaborated with the Riva Historical Society: a Milan-based association dedicated to the preservation and restoration of classic Riva boats. Each year, to celebrate the partnership, Frederique Constant creates a limited edition Runabout timepiece inspired by these timeless boats.

The latest range features two new automatic models: one in 42mm stainless steel and the other with a rose gold-plated case. The navy-blue dial features luminous Arabic numerals, indexes and hands. The date window at 6 o’clock has a magnifying lens with minutes displayed around the outer rim of the dial.

The see-through sapphire case back displays the automatic mechanism and an engraving of the Riva Historical Society flag, finished off by a navy leather strap with white stitching. Both models are limited to 2,888 pieces. https://frederiqueconstant.com

026 | THE FUTURE | GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL

SECURING THE FUTURE OF THE CRAFT TO NURTURE FRESH TALENT FOR A CENTURIES-OLD CRAFTSMANSHIP, THE WATCHMAKING INDUSTRY HAS ALWAYS PLACED GREAT IMPORTANCE ON COMPREHENSIVE THEORETICAL AND PRACTICAL TRAINING. AWARE OF ITS RESPONSIBILITIES IN THIS REGARD, GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL COMMITTED TO CONTINUING THIS TRADITION WITH ITS OWN SCHOOL.

027 | THE FUTURE | GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL

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pprentices at Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking will focus on two major areas of interest: watchmaking and toolmaking, initiation into an art that is both modern and rich in tradition.

Newcomer apprentices will learn their trade and follow in the footsteps of some 250 successful graduates who began their careers at the school since it opened in 2001. They gain inspirational insight into the past and present of their craft by touring the German Watch Museum and the Glashütte Original manufactory.

A colourful mix of diversity characterises this year’s intake: five young women –watchmakers-to-be and one future toolmaker – along with young men from different regions in Germany. A Taiwanese student had to overcome the daunting challenge of passing a special German language examination before she could register for her apprenticeship at the renowned watchmaking school.

Having cleared that hurdle, she now looks forward, along with her 14 new colleagues, to taking the future of the art of watchmaking into her own hands.

028 | THE FUTURE | GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL

Experienced instructors take advantage of state-of-the-art technology to pass on their trade craft to the students. Tomorrow’s watch and tool experts also take part in a regular series of hands-on training sessions in selected departments of the manufactory, where they learn to make practical use of the knowledge and skills they have acquired. Thanks to the school’s partnership with WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Programme), the young graduates can also earn, in addition to their German leaving certificate, a Swiss diploma – thus opening up international career prospects.

Detailed information about the apprenticeship and application procedures for the watchmaker and toolmaker professions can be found on the manufactory’s website in the job openings section (www.glashuette-original.com). If you are interested in the Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking along with other attractive opportunities within the watchmaking industry, visit the school on October 20, 2018 for an Open Day.

031 | THE FUTURE | HUBLOT

DIGITAL BOUTIQUE AWARE THAT THE MAJOR ASSET OF AN EXCELLENT CUSTOMER RELATIONSHIP IS BASED ON TRUST, AVAILABILITY AND FLEXIBILITY, HUBLOT HAS CREATED AN ONLINE DIGITAL STORE THAT COMPLEMENTS THE ROLE AND PRESENCE OF ITS PHYSICAL BOUTIQUES AROUND THE WORLD.

y offering remote 3D-facilitated access to its customers, the brand is successfully creating a new bespoke customer service while preserving an essential denominator of any relationship, the human connection.

It all begins on the Hublot website where every customer can ask to be connected to the closest Hublot Digital Boutique. At this point, the client is either connected in real time with a manager at the chosen Boutique or schedules an appointment for a later date. Via FaceTime or Skype, the client makes contact with one of the sales advisors where the desired products are presented live, an identical experience to visiting the physical Boutique. The virtual technology provides real interaction, removing time and location constraints.

The customer is then invited to visit the point of sale to decide on the purchase of their watch. As soon as the customer has confirmed that they wish to acquire the watch, they will receive a call from the boutique to finalise the purchase.

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“We move with the times and anticipate our customers’ needs.

We know that the purchase of a product as emotional as a watch is driven by various stimuli. We consider our customers to be friends and because the acquisition of a Hublot watch is like a journey with different stopovers, our availability and willingness is a way of showing our customers that we care about them as individuals.”

– Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO Hublot

032 | FINAL MOMENT | OMEGA

ULTRA SPEEDY AT 12 NOON ON 10 JULY 2018, OMEGA OFFERED ONLINE SALES OF THIS TIMEPIECE VIA ITS @OMEGA INSTAGRAM CHANNEL. IN JUST UNDER TWO HOURS, ALL 2,012 PIECES HAD BEEN SOLD, SNAPPED-UP IN JUST ONE HOUR, 53 MINUTES AND 17 SECONDS.

The Limited Edition 42mm ‘Ultraman’ Speedmaster pays tribute to the key character in the ULTRAMAN series, a collection of shows created by Tsuburaya Productions in Japan: one of the most famous examples of the Kaiju ‘giant monster’ genre.

Though ‘Speedy Tuesday’ has a sense of fun, with its ‘70s Japanese sci-fi references, this watch boasts genuine space credentials sharing its DNA with OMEGA’s 1967 ‘Moonwatch’.

As Ultraman was only able to stay in superheromode for three minutes, the minute subdial at 3 o’clock features the first three minutes picked-out in orange. On the seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, there’s a hidden silhouette of Ultraman’s profile, which is revealed by a special tool available with the watch. The strap changer, identical to Ultraman’s Beta Capsule, features a UV lamp at one end, which, when shined on the dial, reveals the image.

Limited to just 2,012 pieces, the OMEGA Speedmaster 42mm ‘Ultraman’ is a true collectable.

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TIMEPIECES OF DISTINCTION The L.U.C collec tion, handcraf ted since 1860 for distinguished gentlemen.

A truly individual statement in time.

L.U.C XPS (161948-1001), MANUFACTURE CALIBRE L.U.C 96.12-L AUTOMATIC

B O U T IQ U E H A U T E HOR LO G E R I E

For further information contact Architects of Time (011) 669 0790