WATCH SUPPLEMENT TO JOBURG STYLE MAGAZINE
60-Year Phase THE STORY OF OMEGA’S LUNAR RELATIONSHIP
DRIVE DE CARTIER MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT 1904 MC THE DRIVE DE CARTIER COLLECTION IS ELEGANCE REDEFINED. THE SLEEK LINES OF THIS CUSHION-SHAPED WATCH CREATE A TRULY STYLISH PIECE, BROUGHT TO LIFE BY THE MAISON MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT 1904 MC. ESTABLISHED IN 1847, CARTIER CREATES EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES THAT COMBINE DARING DESIGN AND WATCHMAKING SAVOIR-FAIRE. # W H ATD R I V E SYO U
Grand Boutique Melrose Arch +27 11 684 1380
Melrose Arch +27 11 684 1380 ∙ Sandton City +27 11 784 0047 Discover more on overseas.vacheron-constantin.com
OVE RS E A S Bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, this timepiece is the ideal companion for an extraordinary voyage that reveals a unique perspective on the world. It is the only watch of its kind.
CRAFTING ETERNITY SINCE 1755
OV E RSE AS
Geneva official watchmaking certification
Melrose Arch +27 11 684 1380 | Sandton City +27 11 784 0047
Reverso Tribute Calendar watch Eduardo Novillo Astrada, polo Champion, Winner of the Argentine Triple Crown.
Open a whole new world
ISSUE 7 | CONTENTS 8
EVENTS A unique rendezvous
24H will be attending its first Baselworld from 23 to 30 March in Basel, Switzerland.
18
THE PRESENT Showpieces
The latest release out of Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie Genève and more.
10
12
INTERVIEW Luxury is in our nature
David Green explains how their timepiece collection has evolved to complement their eyewear collection.
THE PAST Fly Me To The Moon
The 60-year story of the Omega Speedmaster – the first watch ever worn on the moon.
30
32
THE FUTURE Head in the clouds
FINAL MOMENT Ode to a legend
Vacheron Constantin is pursuing its Métiers d’Art (the legend of the Chinese zodiac) with the sign of the rooster.
Breitling and Franky Zapata defy gravity with the amazing Flyboard® Air.
The world is positively sideways at the moment. The Land of the Free has closed its doors temporarily, free to everyone as long as you’re not x, y or z. The Union of European countries is no longer fully unified and the Rainbow Nation is distinctly black and white. Everyone I talk to is in this semi-tailspin of a runaway 2017. In times like these, there is no shortage of motivational clichés. “The only thing that is the end of the world, is the end of the world.” Heard that one from Barrack Obama in one of his exit interviews. Or any one of the myriad other oneliners like Tyler Perry’s, “The key to life when it gets tough is to keep moving. Just keep moving.” There is plenty to draw on from these pearls of wisdom and I can vouch for them personally in a life of deadlines, but often I simply find solace in the solidness of time. Nothing physically solid about it, of course, but from a point that irrespective of Donald’s tweets this morning, 60 seconds is still one minute,
EDITORIAL BOARD Editor & Publisher ERIC BORNMAN eric@ballyhoomedia.co.za Creative Direction & Design STEVE MACBETH Copy Editing JULIA RICE julia@ballyhoomedia.co.za Proofreading LYNNE YATES | LOREN SHIRLEY-CARR Distribution ON THE DOT Printed by CREDA
there are still only 24 hours in a day... you get where I am going with this. As you read this I will be in Basel attending the watch and jewellery industry’s flagship event. It’ll be my first day at the rodeo, so follow the adventure on our new Instagram page, 24hmag. The world’s foremost brands will unveil their releases for the coming year to the world’s elite retailers, international media and VIP clientele. For the benfit of our marketing readership, the three Cs of haute horology exhibitions are Chocolates, Cheese and Champagne. Add the snow, the efficiency of the Swiss and we have the makings of an awesome time. And there it is. I’ll put money on it that you’ve at least for a moment forgotten about the mayhem around you. But please join me for a little while longer to revel in the lunar achievements of Omega, this edition’s collection of exquisite timepieces and other innovations. Later.
Published by BALLYHOO MEDIA Company Reg No 2007/207595/23 14 Sixth Street, Parkhurst, Johannesburg, South Africa, 2193 PO Box 3125, Parklands, 2121 Tel: 086 111 4626 Fax: 086 670 6429
FROM THE EDITOR WATCH SUPPLEMENT TO JOBURG STYLE MAGAZINE
60-Year Phase THE STORY OF OMEGA’S LUNAR RELATIONSHIP
Cover watch The OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Chronograph
24H is published quarterly by Ballyhoo Media. Opinions expressed in Joburg Style are not necessarily those of Ballyhoo Media. No responsibility can be accepted for errors, as all information is believed to be correct at the time of going to print. Copyright subsists in all work in this magazine. Any reproduction or adaptation, in whole or in part, without written permission from the publishers is strictly prohibited and is an act of copyright infringement that may, in certain circumstances, constitute a criminal offence.
RADO.COM
RADO HYPERCHROME AUTOMATIC DIAMONDS PLASMA HIGH-TECH CERAMIC. METALLIC LOOK. MODERN ALCHEMY.
TIME IS THE ESSENCE WE ARE MADE OF
A unique rendezvous 24H WILL BE ATTENDING ITS FIRST BASELWORLD FROM 23 TO 30 MARCH IN BASEL, SWITZERLAND
BASELWORLD | EVENTS | 09
he show is recognised as the global watch and jewellery industry’s showpiece, a week when the world’s best known watch brands present new creations and innovations to the world’s most prestigious and influential retail buyers and international press. First presented in 1917, when just 29 Swiss brands exhibited, it has grown over the last 100 installments to a super-expo featuring 1,500 global brands in 2016, 300 of which were Swiss. The prevailing global trends of the next 12 months will be unveiled, quality over quantity, large and small brands under one roof, all welcome as long as they represent innovation. Newly designed connected watches, entire new collections, feminine pieces added to signature collections, new additions to age-old families, reinventions and reinterpretations of classics and other groundbreaking enhancement and advancements. Follow us on Instagram at 24Hmag to stay close to the action as we interview the industry’s most influential CEOs, attend product launches and hobnob with the industry’s elite. The next edition will feature an exclusive inside track of the first exclusive series of novelties from this year’s show, seen for the first time in South Africa.
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010 010| |INTERVIEW THE LIST | | RESTAURANTS DAVID GREEN
What is it about the watch industry that excites you? Creativity meets craftsmanship consistently with elegance and style. This industry consistently delivers refreshing ideas, while also maintaining the timeless classics that keep a solid bedrock as fashions come and go. The time is available to anyone for free almost anywhere. Why is there still a demand for luxury timepieces? A luxury timepiece withstands the competition of other devices that tell the time of day not because of what it is, but what it is does for you and how you feel about yourself and the world you live in. There will always be a demand for people to express themselves. Ironically, in our current fast paced world, the ultimate luxury is time.
How did David Green Timepieces come about? Our core business is optical eyewear. Through the creation of our timepieces, we have created an expression of our unique brand that can be enjoyed by someone who doesn’t necessarily require optical correction. Actually, the timepiece collection has evolved to harmoniously complement our eyewear collection and many customers choose to wear both. What sets you apart from the rest? The fact that no two pieces are the same. We have created a brand concept and product that’s truly differentiated and unique. Each piece contains a real leaf. In the current marketplace, this is a material achievement that has become exponentially more difficult to truly achieve. In the
international arena, we have been identified and saluted for this. The upside to your business/ industry? We currently distribute in over 25 countries. USA is our strongest growing market. Our timepieces have been the choice of celebrities who want to make a statement about the environment. Online sales awareness is growing exponentially. We are also active with our direct sales portal.
LUXURY IS IN OUR NATURE DAVID GREEN IS FUSING NATURE AND TECH. 24H SAT DOWN WITH HIM FOR A CHAT
Where is South Africa at in its understanding of design and brands with a purpose? We are very proudly a ‘design Cape Town’ brand and believe there is global equity in this. Our purpose is to bring nature to the cities of the world. South Africans naturally resonate with nature. But over and above this, individuality is the headline desirable for South Africans in the luxury market. To offer a product where each piece is unique is a reason for choice of purchase, particularly in Gauteng.
Each piece contains a real leaf The word ‘icon’ is so overused, but who do you consider to be a true symbol of style and sophistication in the world? I have great admiration for a position of ‘elegant and relaxed’ for a designer. I love the work of Pininfarina – from coffee machines to motor cars, through beautiful lines and superior functionality, he brings style into lifestyles. www.greentimepieces.com
I.N.O.X. CARBON #241776
LIFE IS YOUR ADVENTURE For further information contact Picot & Moss 011.669.0500. www.picotandmoss.co.za MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE | ESTABLISHED 1884
THE OMEGA SPEEDMASTER WAS THE FIRST WATCH EVER WORN ON THE MOON AND IN SO DOING BECAME A SYMBOL OF THE INGENUITY AND SKILL THAT TOOK HUMANKIND INTO SPACE. THE YEAR 2017 SEES THE 60TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE SPEEDMASTER’S RELEASE. FEATURING SPECIAL COMMENTARY BY SPACE ENTHUSIAST AND BRAND AMBASSADOR, GEORGE CLOONEY, 24H EDITOR ERIC BORNMAN TAKES A LOOK BACK AT THE DAYS OF THE APOLLO PROGRAMME AND WHY THE SPEEDMASTER WAS ABLE TO GO WHERE IT DID
Fly me to the moon
COVER STORY | THE PAST | 013
“It was the most exciting time to be a kid. We knew all the astronauts’ names. We even ate the food they ate.”
The story so far...
015 | THE PAST | COVER STORY
Like the Frank Sinatra track (originally titled ‘In Other Words,’) the Speedmaster was originally envisioned for a different purpose than going to the moon. When first released 60 years ago it was built for speed as the name suggests and was, in fact, intended for racing cars. Upon release, the Speedmaster was an instant hit with professional drivers. The rugged construction was able to withstand intense vibrations and shocks while keeping perfect time. The tachymetric scale on its bezel enabled drivers to time their laps better than ever before. It revolutionised the design, durability and functionality of wristwatches. As it turned out, these two features rendered it perfectly suitable for space exploration and, as of 1965, was a standard issue for every astronaut in the Apollo programme. NASA began searching for a chronograph to use on its manned space missions in 1964. It chose watches from a number of different brands and put them through the same series of tests that were used for every piece of hardware intended for space. Only the Speedmaster survived the extreme temperatures, vibrations, hard shocks and unforgiving vacuums of the testing time when our world was looking forward to challenges. When we process. The Moonwatch model is essentially the thought we could do better, and when we thought we could reach for same as the one released in the pre-space age. Sixty the stars and actually get to them. It was, without question, us at our years on it is still qualified for all manned space finest and our bravest, and the astronauts were in the lead.” missions and is a permanent piece of equipment on While he’s played an astronaut a few times, thinking back to that the International Space Station. moment in his life, George says, “It was the most exciting time to be a As one can imagine, manufacturing this piece of kid. We knew all the astronauts’ names. We even ate the food they ate. equipment remains a complex exercise. It takes 14 During one of our vacations, we drove through Neil Armstrong’s months to prepare the componentry prior to hometown, simply because we wanted to drive through his hometown. assembly and 80 manual processes to assemble the The astronauts were that big a deal to us.” base plate alone. Despite the fact that NASA’s space In 1961, US President John F Kennedy set a bold challenge for the programme is credited with a throng of technical American people. He stated, “I believe that this nation should commit innovations, from mobile telecommunications to itself to achieving the goal, before the decade is out, of landing a man water purification, it is ironic that the Speedmaster on the moon and returning him safely to the earth.” has required no modification. According to George, this challenge felt almost impossible at the Further proof of the enduring design quality can time, but it did create a new level of optimism that reflected itself in be found in the fact that it was used as a navigational tool for terrestrial everything happening around him. “In just 60 years, we’d gone from explorers. In 1968, Ralph Plaisted used his Speedmaster and sextant inventing cars to talking about landing a man on the moon. It felt like to determine the exact location of the geographical North Pole for the the ultimate in optimism, the ultimate in forward thinking. It made us first time. Likewise, in 1985, explorer Wong How Man used his to feel like anything could be done.” help discover and map the elusive source of the mighty Yangtze River. When Apollo 11 touched down on the moon on July 20th, 1969, and John F Kennedy’s challenge was answered, the young George What about George? Clooney watched from his suburban backyard. Standing with his George Clooney grew up in the '60s and was eight years old when father, looking up at the moon, he felt a special connection with his Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin first set foot on the moon. Like most heroes as they took their first steps into a new world. Like the children of his generation, astronauts were his heroes and going into astronauts, George’s father also wore an Omega. space was his dream. In fact, George still has the same watch today. When Clooney When asked about the legacy of the Speedmaster and the space Senior heard that his son was working with Omega, he presented him programme it was a part of, George responds, “They are symbols of a with his old Omega as a gift. “He brought it down from the attic, after putting it away for 20 years,” says George, “and he wound it and it started running again. It was a special moment. I grew up with that watch on his arm.” This makes the Speedmaster a true classic, as he explains, “Some things are classic, and when they’re classic, you will always want them. You’d be really upset if they changed. We want modern technology – like our cell phones – but there is something about having certain classic things, that if they changed, it would break your heart.”
A tribute: 60 years in the making
The original, called the Broad Arrow due to its distinctive hands, this was not only the first Speedmaster, it was also the first chronograph wristwatch in the world with its tachymeter scale on the bezel as opposed to printed on the dial - a feature designed for the benefit of racing car drivers.
This model was the first watch to pass NASA’s rigorous testing for flight qualification. A number of brands submitted their timepieces for testing, but only the Speedmaster survived. It was launched into legend when it was worn on Gemini and Apollo missions.
1957 Broad Arrow
1963 Third Generation
The first Speedmaster
Tested and qualified by NASA
1950
Launched in 1968 with the new calibre 861, this model marked a major turning point. Not only did the new movement provide extra innovation, but it was also the first, from 1970 onwards, to include the famous words; ‘FLIGHTQUALIFIED BY NASA FOR ALL MANNED SPACE MISSIONS.’
1968 The Moonwatch Direct link to the Moonwatch of today
1960
1959 First Omega in space
Continuing its secret project to build the perfect space watch for NASA, OMEGA returned with a new prototype, this time in a Moonwatch style that retained some of the original features of the Alaska I model, including the large, red heat shield. As before, the white dial was also retained to better reflect the heat of the sun. Other updates included rocketshaped subdial hands for balance, luminous markers and radial numerals on the subdials, and a 0 – 60 numbered bezel.
1972 Alaska II (prototype) Pursuing the perfect space watch
1970
1969 Alaska I (prototype)
1973 Speedmaster 125
Worn by Walter Schirra
Specially made for NASA
The second version differed from the original due to its black aluminium bezel, the lollipop seconds hand for Air Force orders and ‘Alpha’ style hour and minute hands. The model went on to be the first worn in space on the wrist of Walter Schirra on October 3rd 1962, chosen as his personal watch on the Sigma 7 mission of the Mercury programme. The space legacy had begun.
‘Alaska’ was OMEGA’s chosen code-name for everything that involved NASA and was always deemed top-secret. To meet the demands of the extreme temperatures of space, the Alaska I prototype had a thermal shield and a pure titanium inner case making it the first wristwatch in the world to be cased in pure titanium. The white dial was added to better reflect the heat of the sun.
Celebrating 125 years of OMEGA
1965 The Moonwatch First watch worn on the moon When Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin stepped onto the lunar surface in 1969, this model became the first watch ever worn on the moon. In fact, it has since become the watch that has served on the most lunar missions. In design, it was the first to feature an asymmetrical case, done so to provide added protection for the crown and pushers. For the first time, the word ‘Professional’ was also printed on the dial.
Russian cosmonaut Vladimir Dzhanibekov spent a total of 145 days and 16 hours in space wearing this model.
017 | THE PAST | COVER STORY
In 1975, Russian cosmonauts and American astronauts wore Speedmasters during a historic meeting in space that signalled the beginning of the end of the Cold War. Made in a limited edition of 500 pieces to mark this famous American-Soviet space rendezvous, this watch was the first of the Patch watches. It has the mission patch at 12 o’clock in place of the OMEGA logo.
1975 Apollo-Soyuz Celebrating the AmericanSoviet mission
Briefly going digital, this prototype was created for the astronauts at NASA based on the commercial models. The functions were still the same but it also included a BETA light system as an innovative way to illuminate the display without using a typical lightbulb. Twelve pieces were sent to NASA astronauts who tested the watch in training and on the Space Shuttle. Ultimately, they chose not to adopt the watch.
1979 Alaska IV
This was the first Speedmaster that combined an automatic movement with a Moonwatch case. OMEGA only produced the watch two years. For collectors, finding an original piece can become an obsession full of disappointment, joy and despair – hence its ‘Holy Grail’ nickname. In design, the case is slightly thicker to accommodate the automatic movement and the buttons and crown are closer fitting than the usual Moonwatch.
1987 Automatic The ‘Holy Grail’ for collectors
Quartz prototype for NASA
1980
In 1990, 10 standard Moonwatches were kept aboard the orbiting MIR Space Station for 90 days to test the effects of zero gravity on the watch. Two years later, a second series spent 365 days on the station in a further experiment. 28 of these history-making watches were sold in 1995. On the caseback are the words ‘365 DAYS ON BOARD SPACE STATION MIR, JULY 1993 – JULY 1994.’
1995 MIR 365 Days 365 days on MIR Space Station
1990
2000
1978 Alaska III
1985 Speedymoon
1995 Apollo 13
1998 X-33
Built for the Space Shuttle
First Moonphase
25th anniversary
Favoured by pilots
When OMEGA began work on the ‘Alaska III’ project, its aim was to adapt the classic Moonwatch to include anti-reflective surfaces and an easy-to-read dial. The result included a brushed stainless steel case and large radial numerals on the subdials. A first batch of 56 pieces was delivered to NASA and they used them on board the Space Shuttle in the 1980s. A second batch soon followed.
Twenty years after preparations to go to the moon began, the moon came to the Speedmaster. The Speedymoon was produced in a series of 1,300 pieces and features a moonphase complication with a painted moon and stars. On some rare models, a face is also painted on the moon.
The Speedmaster served a life-saving role aboard Apollo 13 in 1970 when it helped the astronauts return safely to Earth. This 25th anniversary model is a favourite among collectors due to it being the first in a long series of Mission models that followed. It includes an Apollo 13 badge and was limited to 999 pieces.
Known as the ‘Mars Watch,’ the X-33 was designed for the possibility of man landing on the red planet. It took five years of collaborative development between with the world’s major space agencies, as well as the USN Blue Angels and the USAF Thunderbirds. With its futuristic design, it was worn on board NASA’s space shuttles and the Russian MIR Space Station.
018 | THE PAST | COVER STORY
Built for the next great human destination, this model coincided with the American announcement of its plan to build a permanent space station on the moon before 2020 to act as a launch site for future manned missions to Mars. Celebrating those celestial bodies, the watch has counters printed with images of the moon, Earth and Mars.
2003 From The Moon To Mars Anticipating the future
The Solar Impulse project captured the world’s imagination with its ambitious aim of flying around the Earth in a plane powered only by the sun. OMEGA was a Main Partner of the mission and produced this watch named after the Solar Impulse prototype plane. The design took inspiration from the plane itself, with a titanium case and a dial made of black carbon fibre, similar to the HB-SIA’s composite covering. A central GMT hand, which completes one rotation in 24 hours, can be used to read a second time zone.
The Dark Side of the Moon brought the Moonwatch to a new generation. Crafted from a single block of sleek ceramic, the sporty model also features a black ceramic dial with 18K white gold hands and a nylon fabric strap. The incredible production techniques used to create this watch have been some of OMEGA’s most celebrated achievements.
2013 Dark Side Of The Moon
2008 HB-SIA GMT
First Speedmaster in ceramic
Built for Solar Impulse
2000
The first Speedmaster certified as a Master Chronometer, this blue Moonphase timepiece reaches the industry’s highest standards of precision and performance as approved by the Swiss Federal Institute of Meteorology (METAS). Most incredibly, the image of the moon on this watch is as detailed as a NASA photograph. Zoom in close and you’ll see an astronaut’s footprint.
2016 Moonphase First Master Chronometer
2010
2020
2008 Alaska Project
2012 Apollo 17
2014 Skywalker X-33
A prototype becomes reality
40th anniversary
In this timepiece, one of the brand’s most innovative dreams became reality. Created in a limited edition of 1,970 pieces in 2008, the watch is based on the ‘Alaska II’ project, which used a standard Speedmaster with a modified dial and hands in conjunction with an outer anodised aluminium thermal shield. This allowed the watch to withstand temperatures, in lunar or spatial atmospheres, ranging from -148° to +260°.
This Limited Edition timepiece is one of the most iconic Speedmasters and celebrates the 40th anniversary of the final lunar landing in December 1972. It features a striking and unique 925 silver dial embossed with the same design as the Apollo XVII patch, which represents Mankind, the future, the image of Apollo and the United States flag. The watch was limited to just 1,972 pieces.
Built for the European Space Agency Designed especially for space explorers, the Skywalker is an innovative upgrade of the Professional X-33 released in 1998. The new model, powered by an advanced quartz calibre, was thoroughly tested and approved by the European Space Agency for inclusion in all of its missions. Built from titanium, it includes a ceramic bezel with a chromium nitride scale and an LCD display with an electroluminescent backlight.
2017 The Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer The racing dial returns This mode features a matt-black dial with orange markings and bevelled 18K white gold arrowhead indexes filled with white Super-LumiNova and Master Chronometer certification. The 44.25 mm case is thinner and the polished ceramic bezel features a brushed Liquidmetal® tachymeter scale. The black leather strap contains a section of orange rubber through the middle in a perforated design that aerates the skin.
Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande Sonnerie 1860 Striking, or chiming, watches represent one of the rarest, most soughtafter horological complications. Vacheron Constantin presents its first ever grande sonnerie wristwatch The watch features a 727-part movement that strikes the hours and quarters and offers a strike-mode selector that is operated by the bezel. This one-of-a-kind timepiece required 10 years of development before a period of 500 hours of assembly by a single master-watchmaker. The striking mechanism is visible on the case-back side. It requires enough energy at all times to strike the required number of chimes (up to 96 activations in 24 hours, i.e. 912 chimes), while ensuring impeccably high quality sound. This requires a 72-hour power reserve and 20 hours of strike-work power reserve. To achieve all if of this within the confounds of an 18 carat white gold 45mm-diameter case, a mere 9.1mm thick, is the ultimate mastery. http://sihh.vacheron-constantin.com
DESIRABLES | THE PRESENT | 021
Showpieces
Breguet Tradition Dame 7038 The 18 carat rose gold case with 68 brilliant-cut diamonds set on the bezel is 37mm in diameter and water-resistant to 30m The Arabic numerals and open-tipped hands in gold decorate the natural white mother-of-pearl dial with 50 hours power reserve and a leather strap. www.breguet.com
Rolex Datejust 41 Gold and steel combine in a signature Rolex style called Rolesor that has been featured on models since the early 1930s. It’s one of the prominent pillars of the Oyster collection There are hour markers in 18 carat gold with the date displayed in a window at 3 o’clock that change instantaneously at midnight in a few thousandths of a second. The Cyclops lens on the crystal, invented in 1953, magnifies the date for easy reading. The 41mm case is waterproof to 100m with a power reserve of 55 hours. www.rolex.com
DESIRABLES | THE PRESENT | 023
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Magic Gold The innovative construction of the new HUB1201 calibre reveals its entire interlocking power reserve on the dial side in a 45mm case made from Magic Gold, the hardest scratch-resistant gold variety in the world, developed and patented by Hublot five years ago The matt black dial reveals the Meccano-inspired architecture of the movement, with a manually wound skeleton mechanism displaying the regulating organ. Limited to 200 pieces decorated with 24 jewels and an impressive power reserve of 10 days. www.hublot.com
024 | THE PRESENT | DESIRABLES
Jaeger-LeCoultre RendezVous Night & Day Large The Rendez-Vous Night & Day is now available in three sizes and a choice of materials, straps and spectrum of colours, each representing different moments in the daily life of a woman The large case of 38.2mm in diameter is the largest case ever for this collection. Change straps or buckles as you wish, without the need for tools to do so. As an alternative to the steel version with steel or leather strap, choose the rose gold version set with brilliant cut diamonds in an ostrich leather strap. The watch has a 40-hour power reserve and is water-resistant to 50m. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
Cartier Panthère The jewellery first timepiece second, icon of the 1980s is edgier than ever in yellow gold.
Cartier Two new releases from the 2017 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.
Cartier Drive A refined but masculine extra-flat movement measuring a mere 7mm thick is accompanied by a Moon Phase complication. www.cartier.com
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph One thousand euros of each unit sold from the 250-piece limited edition in this striking all-blue ceramic case will be donated in support of scientific expeditions The 250,000 euros resulting from this will be added to the brand’s support of the oceans. The F385 calibre mechanism beats at 36,000 vibrations an hour 5Hz, an ideal frequency for a chronograph as it enables each second to be divided into intervals of a 10th of a second. It incorporates the technical characteristics of a mechanical diving watch among other water-resistance to 300m and hour-markers in LiquidmetalŽ. The flyback function enables immediate resetting of the chronograph to zero. www.blancpain.com
DESIRABLES | THE PRESENT | 027
Breitling Emergency Night Mission The world’s first wristwatch with a built-in personal locator beacon is now available in three special editions combining a black titanium case in orange or yellow or a blue motherof-pearl dial With its miniaturised transmitter and its original integrated antenna system, the Breitling Emergency is synonymous with all-terrain safety for professionals and adventurers around the globe. The 51mm black titanium case is ultra light and sturdy and is water-resistant to 5 bars. It has a 12/24-hour analogue and LCD digital display, battery end-of-life indicator, a 1/100th second chronograph, timer, second time zone and multilingual calendar. www.breitling.com
028 | THE PRESENT | DESIRABLES
Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary Longines sold the first of its Flagship pieces in 1957. As with the original timepieces, the back of the commemorative watches bears a stamped caravel – the Flagship. The 38.5mm case is available in steel, yellow gold or rose gold with a brushed white dial, adorned with eight indexes and four Arabic numerals, thin profile and fine fasteners. The gold versions are limited to 60 watches while the steel versions are limited to 1,957 units. A brown leather watch strap completes the piece. www.longines.com
Baume & Mercier Clifton Perpetual Calendar Each year the Clifton Collection offers an exclusive timepiece The perpetual calendar tracks the earth and moon as they orbit within the solar system negotiating all the particularities of the Gregorian calendar with its 31, 30 or 28-day months and leap year February 29th. This perpetual calendar does not require any date correction before 1 March 2100, a non leap year that appears three centuries out of four. Ticking away at 21,600 vibrations/ hour for a power reserve of 48 hours, the calibre can be viewed through the sapphire crystal back of the 42mm 18 carat rose gold case. To keep track of all the variations of the calendar it features a mechanical memory of 1,461 days. Finished with a black alligator strap. www.baume-et-mercier.com
Tudor Advisor In 1957 Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of TUDOR, produced his first ever alarm watch, one that remains to this day the only watch of the Wilsdorf house to offer such a function The 42mm titanium and steel case houses a self-winding mechanical movement and a 42-hour power reserve. The winding crown sits at 4 o’clock, the alarm function ON/OFF display at 9 o’clock and the alarm power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. Available in a steel bracelet or alligator leather strap with an additional silk strap in the box. www.tudorwatch.com
030 | THE FUTURE | BREITLING
HEAD IN THE CLOUDS BREITLING AND FRANKY ZAPATA: FLYBOARD® AIR
ranky Zapata has a desire to conquer new frontiers. Born in Marseille in 1978, he initially (at age 16) set out as a professional jet ski test driver. In 2011 he invented the ESH Flyboard®, a hydro-propulsion board connected to a jet ski, making it possible to ‘fly’ above water. (Read: Man in upright position flying through air powered by jet engines; above water…) This machine obviously did not waste much time becoming the new craze and has developed into a demanding, highly spectacular international competition discipline. Zapata founded Zapata Racing®, a company which today offers various types of hydropropulsion engines for recreational and competitive purposes. In April 2016 they launched Flyboard® Air, taking things to a new level. This machine is capable of being airborne completely independently, compliments of an ‘autonomous propulsion unit’ (APU). The 20kg prototype equipped with six engines (four under the board and two on the sides) requires highly sophisticated software and is barely bigger than a large drone. Standing upright, the pilot drives it by means of ‘mass transfer,’ like a Segway, joystick in hand to adjust the thrust. Zapata has completed several very successful, high-profile trials, setting a world record for the longest distance travelled on a flying board. Zapata’s dream is to fly above the clouds one day so the Flyboard® Air has the ambitious targets of reaching a top speed of 160km/h and maximum altitude of 3,000m. Despite the insanity of it all or perhaps because of it, the APU has been designed to work even in the event of engine failure.
F
The 20kg prototype equipped with six engines (four under the board and two on the sides) requires highly sophisticated software and is barely bigger than a large drone
032 | FINAL MOMENT | ZODIAC
ODE TO A LEGEND
acheron Constantin is pursuing its MÊtiers d’Art (the legend of the Chinese zodiac) with the sign of the rooster. The latter took over from the monkey at the Chinese New Year on 28 January 2017. The foliage motif appearing on the dial and based on classic Chinese iconography is etched directly in the metal. The pattern remains semi-embedded and
V
stands out from its gold base by a subtle stage setting of variously accentuating reliefs creating a depth effect. This makes the vegetation appear to be floating over the dial. Grand Feu enameling is an ancestral technique that remains the preserve of a very few particularly skilled artisans. By applying the enamel in successive layers, the enamel specialist
enhances the intensity of the blue or bronze toned dial. The rooster, made of platinum or pink gold, is hand engraved and delicately applied to the dial centre. Delivered with a corrector pen, a magnifying glass and a dedicated brochure to better showcase the craftsmanship and the technicality behind these creations, it is a limited series of 12 pieces per reference.
Antarès bracelets interchangeables Swiss movement, Made in France Sapphire Crystal glass Water resistant to 50 meters
www.michel-herbelin.co.za | Stockist enquiries: (011) 448 2210