WATCH SUPPLEMENT TO JOBURG STYLE MAGAZINE
LET EVERY MAN BE MASTER OF HIS TIME
ROTONDE DE CARTIER L A R G E D AT E , R E T R O G R A D E S E C O N D T I M E Z O N E , A N D D AY/ N I G H T I N D I C AT O R 1 9 0 4 - F U M C
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THIS ROTONDE DE CARTIER WATCH COMBINES THREE WATCHMAKING COMPLICATIONS INTO THE MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT 1904-FU MC FOR A BOLD AESTHETIC WITH CLEAN LINES AND REFINED DETAILS. ESTABLISHED IN 1847, CARTIER CREATES EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES THAT COMBINE DARING DESIGN AND WATCHMAKING SAVOIR-FAIRE.
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CRAFTING ETERNITY SINCE 1755 Our continuous history is reflected in the Harmony collection. A new legacy has dawned.
HARMONY CH RO N O G R A P H
Geneva official watchmaking certification
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THE LEGEND AMONG ICONS.
Watch the video about the new Portugieser Collection
Por tugieser Perpetual Calendar. Ref. 5034: Real icons have a special story to tell. And what was true of the great Portuguese seafarers also applies to IWC’s own Portugieser. After all, the history of its genesis bears the stamp of courageous innovation and watchmaking expertise at its best. Seventy-five years ago, two Portuguese businessmen approached IWC requesting a wristwatch with the precision of a marine chronometer. In response, IWC’s watchmakers took the unprecedented step of housing a hunter pocket watch movement in a wristwatch case. In so doing, they founded a watch family whose timeless elegance, sophisticated technology and unmatched complexity have been a source of wonderment ever since.
The movement itself is visible through a transparent sapphire glass back cover that provides an unimpeded view of the IWC-manufactured 52000 calibre’s impressive precision. The watch’s complexity is eloquently expressed by the perpetual calendar, whose functions can all be adjusted simply by turning the crown. And just as observing the star-studded heavens can guide a ship safely to harbour, a glance at the perpetual calendar and the moon phase display navigate the wearer safely through the complexities of time. This, in a nutshell, is how 75 years of watch making history became an icon of haute horlogerie. And how, thanks to its unique blend of perfection and timeless elegance, it has become a legend in its own time. I WC . E N G I N E E R E D FO R M E N .
I WC S C H A F F H AU S E N B O U T I Q U E S: PA R I S | LO N D O N | R O M E | M O S COW | N E W YO R K | B E I J I N G | D U B A I | H O N G KO N G | G E N E VA | ZU R I C H I WC .CO M
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MASTERPIECES
THE PAST
p10 | Time’s Most Decorated The stories of H.MOSER & CIE. and BOVET
p12 | History Makers Breguet
THE PRESENT p18 | The Watch List Find these in-store now
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I read
a disturbing article in a respected gentleman’s quarterly recently surmising that watches are proof that humans are irrational. That On the cover: WATCH: Drive de Cartier. buying a R200 quartz should suffice and, if Large date, retrograde second time zone and day/ not, you are doing something other than night indicator in steel acquiring an item that tells the time. That practical self-winding manufacture mechanical movement value should prevail over ostentation. Practically, I Credits: John Balsom suppose there is a point to argue because I could find © Cartier out what time it is by looking at a computer screen, cell phone or by asking someone. But who said life is meant to be practical? It is tough enough as it is, so add boring and sensible and let’s cry ourselves to sleep every night. We might as well stop making cars that go faster than 120km/h because what is the point of an Aston Martin DB9? Rather give me a Tata Nano, the cheapest (and slowest) car on the planet. How about the fashion industry? I’m sure a pair of grey Crocs practically does exactly what a pair of Gucci loafers does. I’d bet the farm that the author of the script under scrutiny has a smartphone that can do everything, so it would be my turn to offer a counteraction. If the point of a phone is to make and take phone calls, do you have a Nokia 220? If not, then why not? I’ll tell you why. These weird and wonderful industries exist to make life exciting. And watches are the epitome of such flamboyance and ingenuity. Take for example the finest
FINAL MOMENT
p32 | 2016 Chinese Year of the Monkey Jaquet Droz celebrates Chinese culture EDITORIAL BOARD Editor & Publisher ERIC BORNMAN eric@ballyhoomedia.co.za Creative Direction & Design STEVE MACBETH Copy Editing JULIA RICE julia@ballyhoomedia.co.za Proofreading LYNNE YATES | LOREN SHIRLEY-CARR Distribution ON THE DOT Printed by CREDA
examples of artisanship featured on p10. Or our heritage story on the life of Abraham-Louis Breguet (p12) and, how the 18th century who’s who, hung onto his every creation. I can be as conscious and humane a consumer as the best of them (recycling, urban farming, the spirit of ubuntu, actually wearing a pair of jeans into a state of distress, you name it), but at times we need to release our senses a bit and let it rip behind the wheel, in front of the mirror, using a phone to take a picture and share it with the world or staring aimlessly at the wonders of precision engineering on our wrists. I don’t travel to different time zones often enough to need to know the time everywhere, but it is still neat to know. I ought to know the day and date, but that doesn’t mean that I wouldn’t look at my Day Date when it gets crazy just to make sure. So no; a R200 quartz just Baselworld isn’t going to do it for me sir and I am far from illogical. In this our third edition we once again bring you the world finest watch brands on the eve of Baselworld 2016 (March 17 – 24) where the world will gather to celebrate the watch industry’s unrivalled creativity and skill. PS: A word of gratitude to the following people: Jen and Donna, Tanya and Keagan, Kerri and Angela, Jayne, Oresti, Julie and Andrea. Your input and support is sincerely appreciated. THE FUTURE p30 | Gombessa III Laurent Ballesta and Blancpain travel to Antarctica p31 | Omega Terra Sustainable development
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TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. THE VALLﾃ右 DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE B R A S S U S . T H E EA R LY WAT C H MA K E RS W E RE SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF FINE WATCHMAKING.
ROYAL OAK IN STAINLESS STEEL AND PINK GOLD. SELFWINDING MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT.
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TIME’S MOST H. MOSER & CIE. Marking the 10th anniversary of its perpetual calendar, H. Moser & Cie. paid tribute to tradition and modernity, two elements that coexist in their creations. The perpetual calendar heritage limited edition is a salute to watchmaking past and present and a distillation of the company’s 187 years of watchmaking expertise.
The red gold model, pocket watch-type case with white enamel dial is finished beautifully with a crocodile leather strap. Other unique elements include handpainted Roman numerals, dovetail-shaped blued hands, a solid 18-carat gold plate and bridges with a matte finish, hand chamfering and handengraved hallmark desolated with 28 jewels and screwed gold mounts. www.h-moser.com/en/
THIS EDITION REINTERPRETS A HISTORIC WATCH THAT RETAINS ITS ORIGINAL FEATURES, NOW IN A LARGER DIMENSION AND FITTED WITH A STRAP
The case on this model is made from striking blue, engraved ‘cloisonné’ enamel and studded with diamonds in association with a modern in-house, hand-wound calibre made from solid gold that guarantees a minimum seven-day power reserve, thanks to its double barrel.
BOVET At the dawn of the 19th century, when Edouard Bovet manufactured his first timepieces, he immediately took great pains over their decoration. He took the watchmaking arts to the pinnacle of refinement, introducing previously unknown levels of detail. Cases and movements were adorned with gems, pearls, miniature paintings in Grand Feu enamel, and engravings. In addition to precious stone setting and enamel work, engraving is omnipresent throughout the brand’s history and every different technique is mastered and employed with every possible surface engraved to compose veritable threedimensional masterpieces.
MASTERPIECES/ARTISAN WATCHMAKING
DECORATED
MANY BOVET POCKET WATCHES DATING FROM THE 19TH CENTURY CAN BE FOUND IN MAJOR COLLECTIONS, PRIVATE AND INSTITUTIONAL Now, 190 years later, the company preserves the future of watchmaking’s decorative arts. Heirs to the expertise of their predecessors and loyal to the history of the House, the artisans employed today are able to decorate every part of a timepiece where such work is technically possible, regardless of the chosen motif and engraving technique. ‘Fleurisanne’ engraving is the decorative pattern featured most often and remains the most sought-after by collectors, whether for decorating a dial, a case, or the bridges of a movement.
Each client is afforded the chance to personalise their timepiece with a specific decoration. In terms of engraving, the possibilities of individualising a timepiece are virtually endless: simple text (name, initials or date), decorative motifs or figurative engravings are just some of the choices and themes available. www.bovet.com
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H I S T O R Y
M A K E R S Breguet, an extraordinary 241-year watchmaking heritage, from 1775 to 2016
The founder Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) was born in Neuchâtel Switzerland and set the standard by which all fine watchmaking has since been judged. He spent most of his productive life in Paris where his career started with a series of breakthroughs: the development of the successful self-winding perpétuelle watches, the introduction of the gongs for repeating watches and the first shock-protection for balance pivots. No aspect of watchmaking escaped his study and his inventions were as fundamental to horology as they were varied: the Breguet balance-spring, his first carriage clock, the sympathique clock and its dependent watch, the tact watch, and finally the tourbillon, patented in 1801. Breguet became the indispensable watchmaker to the scientific, military, financial and diplomatic elites of the age. His timepieces ruled the courts of Europe. For his most celebrated clients, Breguet designed exceptional timepieces. For Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, he conceived, in 1810, the world’s very first wristwatch. Louis XVI and his Queen, Marie Antoinett, were early enthusiasts of Breguet’s watchmaking. Each watch from his workshops demonstrated the latest horological improvements in an original movement, mostly fitted with lever or ruby-cylinder escapements that he perfected. When he died, in 1823, all mourned the architect of the greatest revolution in the science and art of timekeeping.
The most famous patrons QUEEN MARIE ANTOINETT OF FRANCE The Queen had, in her day, been one of the keenest admirers of the timepieces created by A.L. Breguet; in fact, he couldn’t have wished for a finer supporter. She herself owned many of the master watchmaker’s designs and enthusiastically recommended him to the entire kingdom as well as to the court’s most exalted guests. Thanks to her, crowned heads, emperors included, and diplomatic envoys, including one Axel de Fersen, acquired a taste for Breguet’s Queen Marie Antoinett works, consolidating his reputation in Europe and beyond. The Queen was a regular patron of the horological workshop on the Quai de l’Horloge, in the heart of Paris. In September 1792 she received, ‘a simple Breguet watch’ in her cell at the Temple prison. The watch later acquired the aura of a precious relic, finding its way into the prestigious collection of Sir David Salomon’s along with Breguet’s masterpiece, the celebrated watch No 160 known as the ‘Marie Antoinett,’ that the Queen never saw completed. Watch No 160 In 1783, a mysterious admirer of her Royal Highness ordered, from Breguet, as a gift for the Queen, a watch that was to be as spectacular as possible, incorporating the fullest range of horological expertise known at the time. The order stipulated that wherever possible gold should replace other metals and that auxiliary mechanisms, i.e. complications, should be as numerous and varied as possible. No time or financial limits were imposed but, alas, the Queen never got to admire what was to become known as the ‘Marie
Breguet 1775 - 2015 1775 A.L. Breguet sets up his own business on Quai de l’Horloge, Ile de la Cité in Paris 1780 Launch of the first self-winding watches known as ‘perpétuelles,’ with an oscillating weight and two going-barrels 1783 The invention of the gong spring for the minute repeater and the design of the famous open-tipped hands known as ‘Breguet hands’ and the Breguet’s Arabic numerals.
1786 First guilloché dials (handengraved on a rose engine). 1789 Invention of the ratchet key known as the ‘Breguet key.’ Escapement working without oil. 1790 Invention of the ‘pare-chute’ antishock device, to reach its final form 1806. 1795 First description of the ‘sympathique clocks’ in a letter to his son. Development of perpetual date calendar, the Breguet balancespring and the ruby cylinder.
Antoinett’ pocket watch. It was only completed in 1827, 34 years after her death, four years after Breguet’s and 44 years after he’d accepted the order. For two centuries now, both this timepiece’s extreme intricacy and its fabulous destiny have fascinated watchmakers and haunted the imagination of collectors. Stolen in 1983 from a museum in Jerusalem and finally recovered in December 2007, this undisputed masterpiece of horology experienced a fate so mysterious and bizarre that it became something of an obsession. ‘Grande Complication’ pocket watch number 1160 In 2004 Breguet’s watchmakers were challenged to build an exact replica of Watch 160. Archival research and original drawings provided the only available information and guidance regarding the watch’s every function and styling detail. The research uncovered skills that had partly disappeared. At Baselworld 2008, after four long years of research and reconstruction, the new Marie Antoinett timepiece was proudly placed in its impressive presentation case, carved from the wood of the very Versailles oak tree under which the Queen once used to rest. No 160 ‘Marie Antoinett’ watch
1796 Development and production of the first single hand watch known as the subscription watch. Breguet designed a new type of travel clock, in the form of a small gilt bronze case, glazed on four sides. 1798 Patent of the constant force escapement and the invention of the musical chronometer, the clockwork mechanism that acts as a metronome.
1801 Patent of the ‘tourbillon regulator.’ 1804 Development of the first wristwatch, ordered by the Queen of Naples. 1812 First appearance of dials with off-centre hour ring. 1815 Final adjustments made to the marine chronometer with two going-barrels.
CAROLINE MURAT, QUEEN OF NAPLES With the acquisition of thirty-four clocks and watches from 1808 up to 1814, the ambitious
1819 Invention of the Ocular of an astronomical telescope permitting the measurement of ‘tenths of seconds and even, approximately, hundredths.’ 1820 Invention of the ‘montre à double secondes’ or observation chronometer, forerunner of the modern chronograph. 1823 Death of A.L. Breguet on 17 September, aged 76 years.
and very beautiful Queen of Naples easily took pride of place among Breguet’s best clients. The younger sister of Napoleon reigned with her husband the king, Joachim Murat, from 1808 to 1815, and the special relationship she fostered with Breguet during this time gave rise to the first watch specially designed to be worn on the wrist. Commissioned in 1810, paid for in 1811 and delivered in 1812, it was revolutionary in conception: an ultra-thin repeating watch, oblong in shape, equipped with a thermometer and mounted on a wristlet of hair entwined with gold thread. No difficulty was too great for Breguet to overcome in his determination to satisfy Queen Caroline, and he was to be duly rewarded. During the summer of 1813, when the European crisis was at its most acute and the firm had lost its best clients, Queen Caroline bought a further 12 watches (eight repeating and four simple) from her favourite watchmaker, therefore providing a much-needed boost to the firm’s funds at a moment when it was the least expected. Caroline Murat also completed her collection with a number of thermometers and barometers and Caroline Murat, several dozen commercial watches Queen of Naples modestly priced pieces intended as gifts.
1988 The classic line is enriched by a ‘tourbillon’ wristwatch in tribute to the inventor of this regulating device.
1834 Patent of the ‘Sympathique clock,’ with an additional system for rewinding the watch (30 June). 1939 Patent of the sidereal timekeeper (February 28). 1976 Transfer of the Breguet workshops to the Vallée de Joux. Henceforth, the entire production was based in Switzerland.
THE PAST/HERITAGE
THE BONAPARTE FAMILY Napoleon Bonaparte was one of A.L. Breguet’s most faithful clients. It was almost certainly, through General Leclerc and his own companions in arms Berthier and Dessolle, all three regular clients of Breguet, that General Bonaparte first heard of the establishment on the Quai de l’Horloge. He subsequently also influenced several close acquaintances and many members of his family. In April 1798, a month before setting Napoleon out on his Egyptian campaign, General Bonaparte Bonaparte bought three pieces which were particularly representative of Breguet’s output: a repeating watch, ‘gardetemps with insulated escapement’ n° 38; a travelling calendar and repeating clock n° 178 (the first of its kind); and a perpétuelle repeating watch n° 216. These purchases answered a dual purpose: first and foremost, on his meteoric rise through the ranks of both social and political life, Napoleon sought to possess objects of refinement to stand as symbols of his power and social status; and secondly, for purely practical reasons, he needed to take with him on his campaigns timepieces which were solid and reliable.
1999 Acquisition of the ‘Groupe Horloger Breguet’ by the Swatch Group.
1990 New ‘Sympathique clock’ with wristwatch instead of pocket watch. Launch of Marine line. 1991 Patent of the wristwatch with perpetual equation of time (17 April). 1995 Launch of Type XX line.
2001 Celebration of the 200th anniversary of the tourbillon. 2003 Two patented inventions in the Breguet alarm watch ‘Le Réveil du Tsar’ – a columnwheel mechanism to lock or activate the alarm and a device to co-ordinate the alarm with local time.
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THE PAST/HERITAGE
ALEXANDRE 1ST, TSAR OF RUSSIA Dismayed as Breguet and his son were by the brutal loss of their Russian market, they were to find unexpected consolation in the spring of 1814. On 2 April, a mysterious visitor to the premises on the Quai de l’Horloge proved to be none other than the Tsar of All the Russias, traveling incognito and accompanied only by a manservant. The ledgers confirm that on that day, the Tsar bought a repeating watch and one other. According to family tradition, Breguet received his illustrious visitor in his small first-floor office, where the two men enjoyed a long discussion about watchmaking before sharing a modest meal. This memorable encounter provided the opportunity for the Tsar to place an order for a series of ‘pedometers’ – metronomes for regulating military
2006 The advent of silicon and its applications in manufacturing a certain number of components. One of the advantages of silicon is that this material does not react to magnetic fields. Wristwatch equipped with at least two regulators (Twin Tourbillon).
16
2007 Launch of the Tradition 7047 Grande Complication Fusee Tourbillon.
marching times – of which he was to receive eight between 1820 and 1822. In response to the impetus given by the Tsar, Russian sales, which had fallen to nothing in 1813, quickly picked up again. SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL was lifelong a patron of Breguet’s. He would sometimes call as a buyer, as in 1928, and sometimes as a customer, bringing in for servicing the watch he wore all his life, his Breguet no 765, an exceptional chronograph with minute repeater and fly back seconds hand-purchased in 1890 by the duke of Marlborough.
Alexandre 1st
Arthur Rubinstein
Sir Winston Churchill
2008 Reproduction of the watch No 160 called ‘Marie Antoinett’ based only on pictures and descriptions. 2009 Launch of the Classique 7637 Grande Complication Minute repeater. This timepiece is fitted with an entirely re-engineered movement incorporating new materials and featuring innovative positions for the gongs, gong rests and hammers.
ARTHUR RUBINSTEIN, probably the most distinguished pianist of our century, frequently visited the Breguet shop when passing through Paris. He owned a small collection of Breguets. The watch, no 1682 with date and thermometer, which he wore, was exceptional on account of its extremely rare oval shape. It has a curious history: in fact, Breguet manufactured the case in 1822 for a Russian aristocrat, Count Panin. At the time it was an ‘imitation watch’, in other words, a case intended simply to hold a portrait. Then, much later in 1884, the case returned to Breguet and the company was commissioned to fit a movement, thereby giving the watch its present configuration.
2010 Invention of the magnetic pivot, a shock-protection device using the field of the magnets in order to ensure the stability and performance of the balance. The Tradition 7047 with a tourbillon and a fusée and chain type transmission is equipped with a world-first ‘silicon Breguet balance spring.’ 2011 Invention of the magnetic governor for the transmission wheel(s) of the movement or strike (La Musicale). This ingenious mechanism eliminates the characteristic issues of wear, background noise and the need for higher amounts of energy, while also ensuring greater precision.
2012 Launch of the Tradition 7067 GMT. The Tradition line gets its first time zone model. 2013 Launch of the Classique Chronométrie 7727. It integrates the first magnetic pivot ever invented. 2014 Launch of the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5377.
Elegance is an attitude Simon Baker
The Longines Master Collection
A LANGE & SOHNE Datograph Perpertual Tourbillon: Chronograph with perpetual calendar with tourbillon
This masterpiece pairs three complications with five supplementary functions and is limited to 100 pieces. It’s not only technically impressive, but also stands out with a superbly organised face, despite the density of information it displays. During the development of a multiplecomplication timepiece, the most formidable challenge is to achieve the perfect interaction between different highly complex mechanisms and embedding them in a smoothly functioning ensemble. The result is a horological work of art. The black solid-silver dial contrasts beautifully against the 41.5mm platinum case as well as the hands and hour markers in rhodium gold. A first correction of the mechanism by one day can wait until the first day of March in the secular year 2100. And because of its stunning mechanical precision, the moon phase display will only deviate from the true lunation by a single day after 122.6 years. www.alange-soehne.com
This symbol of excellence and prestige, always exclusively in gold or platinum, was launched in 1956 and built on the three pillars of Rolex. The Day-Date was the first waterproof and self-winding chronometer wristwatch to offer a modern calendar with an instantaneous day display, spelt out in full in a window on the dial, in addition to the date. The exceptional precision, reliability, legibility and presence have made it the ultimate status watch. More presidents, leaders and visionaries have worn the Rolex Day-Date than any other watch. It’s highly distinctive, in particular thanks to its emblematic President bracelet with an evocative name that, together with the eminent figures who have worn it, ensured the Day-Date became known as the ‘presidents’ watch.’ The new form Day-Date stands out with a range of elaborate new dials (ice blue in this case) along with the iconic yet improved solid gold or platinum President bracelet, inherent to the standing of the model. It’s now equipped with ceramic inserts inside the links, enhancing its suppleness and durability. The newgeneration concealed crown-clasp, opened with a hinged Rolex crown, is the final aesthetic and functional touch to this sumptuous bracelet.
THE PRESENT/PRODUCT
The President’s Watch
Today there are more timepiece styles to choose from than ever before
THE WATCH LIST
ROLEX Day Date 40
www.rolex.com
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RM 67-01 Automatic Extra Flat
The Richard Mille collection is recognised by collectors, and insiders, as ultimate icons of contemporary watchmaking The RM 67-01 Automatic Extra Flat presents a new iteration of one of the most popular icons. At the heart of the movement’s structural design is the use of involute profiles for the entire going train, instead of the standard cycloidal shaped teeth as normally used in watchmaking. Such profiles can be found in transmissions of cars and many highly efficient motors of all kinds; however their use in the field of watchmaking is rare and exceptional. Such teeth profiles allow for a more efficient transfer of energy through the going train, therefore providing superior chronometric results. The numerals in this new model have been created from solid metal and mounted on two linked and rigid titanium rails attached directly to the movement. The tonneau case is one of the most time-consuming and complex cases created in Switzerland today. www.richardmille.com
At the time of its launch in 1956, the Ladybird was equipped with the smallest round movement on the market This was a period when dainty sizes were all the rage, and the Blancpain master-watchmakers had demonstrated amazing ingenuity in successfully miniaturising the components of a mechanical watch: an authentic technical feat. This year this model turns 60. To mark the occasion, the brand has dreamed up several versions of the Ladybird. The Baselworld display windows will be hosting a new interpretation by the artisans of the manufacture, featuring a dial graced with luminous contrasts and displaying an elaborate foliage motif. The strap of the Ladybird is exclusively crafted from the small scales of Louisiana crocodile leather, creating a particularly refined aesthetic effect. For the 60th birthday of the Ladybird, the watch is issued in a 60-piece limited edition. Its bezel is set with 32 diamonds. The 21.50mm dial is adorned with eight of these sparkling gems framed by a white gold case.
THE PRESENT/PRODUCT
BLANCPAIN
www.blancpain.com
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THE PRESENT/PRODUCT
CARTIER
The aesthetic appeal of the Hypnose jewellery watch lies in the form and power of illusion inspired in its lines
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The elegance of the watch’s oval form, edged with diamonds, is feminine and subtle. The pure white dial is accentuated by the luminosity of pavé-set diamonds to create a watch that is both sophisticated evening attire and exquisite daywear. This 18-carat pink gold bezel is set with brilliant-cut diamonds, an alligator skin strap and quartz movement. Credits: Laziz Hamani © Cartier www.cartier.com
PANERAI The RADIOMIR 1940 3 DAYS GMT POWER RESERVE AUTOMATIC ACCIAIO – 45mm There are four new models in the collection that offer a broader selection of creative dial designs but also a wider choice of technical features like the introduction of two new calibers with date, GMT and power reserve indicator. As in all Panerai watches, the dial remains notable for its extreme legibility, both in normal light and in the dark. The classic, large baton hour markers and figures are covered with ecru SuperLumiNova®. The date indicator, seconds hand and the power reserve indicator all stand out with great clarity against a black dial which is available in two variations for each model. The design of the Radiomir 1940 case is faithfully inspired by the historic examples created for the commandos of the Italian Navy in around 1940. It’s made of stainless steel with a polished finish and it is water-resistant up to 100m. www.panerai.com
THE PRESENT/PRODUCT
OMEGA Speedmaster Moonphase
The first thing that strikes you about this new timepiece is the representation of the moon The high resolution image, in sharply contrasting black and white, is as detailed as a NASA photograph; so detailed, in fact, that a closer look reveals an astronaut’s footprint. The Speedmaster is no stranger to the lunar surface given that it was the first watch worn on the moon. As its name indicates, the watch displays the phases of the moon. Contrary to popular belief, a lunar month is not 30 days, but 29.5 days, a difficult time span to manage for a standard gear train, but its highly accurate mechanism only needs adjusting after 10 years. The twin two-handed sub dials, along with a sun-brushed blue dial, ceramic bezel and stainless steel case, are perfectly finished with a blue leather strap, clasped with a fold over buckle. www.omegawatches.com
ROGER DUBUIS Velvet Ribbon
Haute Horlogerie meets Haute Joaillerie for the refined and discerning woman who appreciates a fine mechanical movement, but is nevertheless drawn towards dressy, glamorous models The Velvet Ribbon features 631 diamonds totaling around 53 carats. The 38.5mm platinum case, inner bezel ring, luminous dial, the entire bracelet and even the case back are fully paved with emerald- and baguette-cut diamonds. It’s water-resistant to 30m with a self-winding calibre. www.rogerdubuis.com 24
LONGINES DolceVita
Subtle geometric lines with soft curves magnify the contemporary elegance and femininity of these models The new collection introduces glamorous variations of gold and steel. A solid rose gold crown and the touch of pink on the dial match the rose gold and steel watch band. The steel cases of the collection feature a solid gold crown and are also offered in a version set with diamonds. The models are available in four sizes and house a quartz movement. www.longines.com
TUDOR North Flag
The new calibre powering the North Flag model provides impressive autonomy with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, meaning you can, for example, take off the watch on Friday evening and put it on again on Monday morning without having to wind it. In addition to the hour, minute and central second functions, it provides an instant date display visible through an aperture positioned at 3 o’clock, as well as a power reserve indicator in the form of a disc at 9 o’clock. The self-winding system is bidirectional and is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), a first for Tudor. www.tudorwatch.com
THE PRESENT/PRODUCT
TAG Heuer Connected
The TAG Heuer Connected with Intel Inside brings together the worlds of a magnificent watch with computing intelligence as well as the full range of features offered by its Android Wear operating system It is, by design, a chronograph complete with grade two titanium case, back, lugs and rubber strap (available in black, red, blue, white, orange, green and yellow), 46mm in diameter. TAG has developed three digital dials which feature the recognisable design codes of the Carrera collection, even reproducing the appearance and functions of a true dial with shadows under the hands and sunburst effect. The dial, hands and indexes remain visible at all times – in its interactive counters and even when the watch is in ambient energy-saving mode. You can interact with any of the customised applications in full touch screen mode without losing the classic timer, alarm and stopwatch functions. With 4GB of memory and all day battery life (charged using a contact charger) it’s equipped with a small microphone to communicate via Google voice control and a sapphire crystal touch-screen. It’s water-resistant for everyday use. The watch will continue to calculate, display and exchange data and remain connected to the cloud as long as you have a Wi-Fi connection. Its resident applications (music, timer, alarm, step counter) remain active even when no connection is available. You have the opportunity to exchange the connected watch for a mechanical Swiss made Carrera watch at the end of the connected watch’s two-year warranty period. www.tagheuerconnected.com
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It’s time to live, love and laugh. DEEPIKA PADUKONE. DEEPIKA IS ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS ACTRESSES IN INDIA. AFTER HAVING BATTLED DEPRESSION, SHE LAUNCHED THE LIVE LOVE LAUGH FOUNDATION, WHICH AIMS AT CREATING AWARENESS ABOUT THIS ISSUE. DEEPIKA IS WEARING A TISSOT CHEMIN DES TOURELLES LADY AUTOMATIC WITH A POWERMATIC 80 MOVEMENT WITH UP TO 80 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE.
THE SWATCH GROUP SOUTH AFRICA – 011 911 1200 SHOP 546, CANAL WALK SHOPPING CENTRE, CAPE TOWN - 021 551 0368 KIOSK2, V&A WATERFRONT SHOPPING MALL, CAPE TOWN – 021 418 0177
TI S S OT WATC H E S .CO M TISSOT, INNOVATORS BY TRADITION
THE FUTURE/EXPLORATION Gombessa III
Following on from the Gombessa I expedition, which revealed the secrets of the coelacanth, and Gombessa II, which studied the spectacular spawn of the camouflage grouper, Laurent Ballesta and Blancpain have travelled to Antarctica for a pioneering exploratory, diving and photographic mission
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THIS EXPEDITION is part of a wider meta-project initiated by movie director Luc Jacquet (who won the Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature in 2006 with March of the Penguins) to measure the impact of global warming in this polar region, and to capture the attention of the general public. The HQ of the Gombessa III expedition has been set up at the French Dumont d’Urville scientific base in Adélie Land. This is the first time a team of technical divers has been able to go beneath the sea ice in this region. Each of the dives, never previously undertaken, represents an achievement on both human and technical levels, and will deliver the very first naturalist images of Antarctica’s deep-sea ecosystems, a territory threatened by global warming. The expedition can be tracked on a daily video-blog on www.blancpain-ocean-commitment.com
In 2011, Omega announced its partnership with Good Planet, an organisation founded by Yann Arthus-Bertrand with a global reputation for its dedication to the promotion of sustainable development THE PARTNERSHIP continues to make a difference through award-winning documentaries and worthwhile projects. At its core, Terra looks at the natural history of mankind and our existence on Earth. It looks back on the unique journey of a species, which, among millions of others, has evolved and emerged from the many phases of our planet’s growth. This documentary will show how our own image and representation of nature has always been decisive in human history, and how it can still change the course of events to come. Traveling deep into the expansive Okavango Delta, Bertrand was able to document the abundant wildlife that resides in the area. Omega is commemorating the partnership with the release of several new timepieces, and, to help continue the charity’s work, a portion of the sales proceeds will be donated to a new wildlife project in Botswana.
THE FUTURE/OUR PLANET
Omega Terra
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FINAL MOMENT/CULTURE 32
2016 Chinese Year of the Monkey
JAQUET DROZ PETITE HEURE MINUTE MONKEY AND PETITE HEURE MINUTE RELIEF MONKEY MODELS IN CELEBRATION of the Chinese Year of the Monkey, Jaquet Droz has turned to the legend of Sun Wakong, the so-called Monkey King and one of the most enduring characters in Chinese culture. Sun Wakong was appointed to watch over the Garden of Celestial Peaches, but instead ate the sacred peaches to attain immortality (leading to the Chinese tradition of giving peaches as a symbol of eternal life). The white grand feu enamel dial of the Petite Heure Monkey depicts a monkey leaping onto a branch to pick a peach. The rose-gold case is available in 35mm or 39mm diameter, the smaller model with a diamonds set bezel. Both are equipped with automatic movements, visible through clear case backs, with meticulously sculpted rotors also visually depicting the Monkey King legend.
RADO.COM
RADO HYPERCHROME AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH HIGH-TECH CERAMIC. SERIOUSLY SCRATCH RESISTANT.
TIME IS THE ESSENCE WE ARE MADE OF