June 2013 Nº 197 FREE
features
Sant Andreu · Dance Therapy · Turó de la Rovira
Interview with Catalan of the Year Dr. Josep Sánchez de Toledo
Design Vall Karsunke Restaurant Pakta
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FASHION
THEATRE
MUSIC
FESTIVALS
TRAVEL
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JUNE Contents Features 18 Turó de la Rovira 24 Dance as therapy 30 Sant Andreu
Regulars 06 On the Cover 07 Around Town 08 Fact checker: Marriage 11 Recipe: Natillas 12 Making Plans 17 Culture: Gay Pride 23 Design: Vall Karsunke 29 Interview: Dr. Josep Sánchez de Toledo 32 Escape the City 34 Gastronomy 50 Back Page
Directories 38 Food & Drink 41 Business
23 30
47 Shopping
From the Senior Editor:
48 Jobs
It’s supposed to be the start of summer in a few weeks but, as I write, temperatures have dropped once more and rain is forecast again. Lucky, then, that we have a range of writing this month to be enjoyed wherever you find yourself: on the beach (fingers crossed) or in a warm and cosy café. Carol Moran and Anthony Bain look at the history of two lesser-known city spots, while Polly Casson takes us into her world of dance. Lucas Cavazos explains why, despite Spain’s generally open attitude to homosexuals, Gay Pride celebrations are still so significant (and such a good time). We talk to the recently named Catalan of the Year 2012, Dr. Josep Sánchez de Toledo, and to local artist Vall Karsunke. Tara Stevens reviews two restaurants from opposite ends of the city’s gastro-spectrum: Albert Adrià’s newest eatery and a cheap but authentic Chinese restaurant. And even if it’s not going to be the hottest Sant Joan
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we’ve known, the coca and cava will taste just as good, and the fireworks will explode as loudly. Hannah Pennell
Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Founder Esther Jones Managing Director Andrea Moreno Senior Editor Hannah Pennell Editor Lynn Baiori Art Director Aisling Callinan Account Executives Richard Cardwell and Dan Whitehead Design Assistant Juan Capitoni Editorial Assistants Erin Handley, Said Saleh and Júlia Tejeda Sales Assistants Mehdi Chabi and Christopher Murphy Contributors Anthony Bain, Jonathan Bennett, Polly Casson, Lucas Cavazos, Jay Collins, Roger de Flower, Carol Moran, Tara Stevens, Nicola Thornton and Helen Vass Photographers Richard Owens, Lee Woolcock and Michaela Xydi Cover photo Nigel Male Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial Office: Ciutat 7 2º 2ª-4ª, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486, Fax. 93 451 6537; editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com. General enquiries: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Printer: Litografia Rosés. Depósito Legal: B35159-96 The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.
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cursions x e d n a st trips ish culture e b e h t elected e best of Span and party! s e v a h avel we ds can enjoy th ve a good time r T e k o t S n Here at u and your frie that want to ha yo people * d e so that d n When ** i booking m r a l i m i mention Metropoli with s tan
to receive a specia l Stok e T-shirt and ask abou t other discounts ***
Boat Parties €35
What: Boat Party with great views of the stunning bays of Barcelona, unlimited drinks and a great party atmosphere. When: April-October (weather permitting). Where: Cruise departs Port Olímpic or Port Vell (options available) How: Book online here then turn up and party with us. Includes: 2 or 3 hour cruise options available with open bar of soft drink, beer and sangría, food option available, great music, even better people, stunning coastal views of Barcelona, and we even sort you out with free club entry too!
Cooking Classes
San Vino / Haro Wine Fight
What: Stoke’s Kitchen Party. Spanish cooking class with a sangría twist and all you can eat and drink! Learn to make Tapas and Paella whilst sampling the goodies, probably getting quite tipsy and definitely having a good laugh. When: Have a group of 8 or more, then we can put on a private class just for you! Otherwise it’s Sundays at midday. How: Book online here and turn up and enjoy cuisine with us! Cost: €23
Where: Haro, La Rioja, Spain. Buses depart San Sebastian, Basque Country, Spain. When: June 28th-29th. How: Plane, train, bus or car to San Sebastian. Cost: €85 Sleep: Camping accommodation (twin share tent, sleeping mat, sleeping bag). Eat: Hot breakfast every day and BBQ dinner. Inclusions: Accommodation, meals, massive Stoke campsite party, round trip private coach travel and experienced guides. A one of a kind experience.
NEW! Water Park Parties €21.50
What: Fun Day acting like a kid again at some of the biggest and best water slides in Barcelona, transport included. When: All summer long starting June! Where: Barcelona’s best waterpark. How: Book online here then just turn up and splish and splash about. Includes: FREE return bus from Barcelona (from central location near Plaça Catalunya), Full day in the waterpark, food options available. We even get you discounted drinks at Stoke Bar.
Running of the Bulls and BBK Live! Weekend Where: Pamplona, Navarra, Spain. When: July 5th-14th. How: Plane, train, bus or car, or ride with us from Barcelona. Cost: from €50 a day. Sleep: Camping accommodation (includes twinshare tent, sleeping mat, sleeping bag). Eat: Hot breakfasts every day and BBQ dinner every 2nd night. Inclusions: Accommodation, meals, transfers to and from the bull run, massive Stoke campsite party. Add ons: Unlimited beer, wine and sangría (€5 a day), traditional clothes (white and red), surf lessons, private return bus transfers from Barcelona. Option to add on BBK Live experience
BBK Live! Where: Bilbao, Spain, we stay at the Stoke Festival Campsite and take you into the festival daily. When: July 11th-13th or stay longer and run with the bulls too! How: Make your own way to the Stoke camp, or ride with us from Barcelona, Madrid, Santander, San Sebastian, Bilbao, Biarritz or Bordeaux. Cost: From €50 a day Sleep: Camping accommodation (twin share tent, sleeping mat, and sleeping bag provided and set up for you). Add ons: Unlimited beer and sangria (€5 a day), transport from various cities in Spain and France, and whilst you’re there, why not also run with the bulls and have a surf.
Stoke Travel, Gran Via 581, 6B · Tel. +34 625 622 891 (Mon to Fri office hours) · info@stoketravel.com
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06 THIS MONTH
ON THE COVER Photographer Nigel Male
www.nigelmale.wix.com/photography
I was born in Melbourne, Australia. I studied graphic design at university and then became a press photographer working for News International. I worked for many years in Melbourne as a photographer and musician until I caught the travel bug. I always crave new experiences and the opportunity to become involved with different cultures. From the moment I left Australia, I knew I would end up living the life of an expat. Before settling in Catalunya I worked and lived in Dubai, the US, Jamaica and the UK. While living in Dubai I managed to get my first break in media music production. I was commissioned to compose the advertising theme music for the FIFA World Cup Series in 2006, which was aired on Kuwaiti TV. Since then I have been composing and producing media music for companies around the world and my music has been featured in advertising in Hong Kong, Malaysia, the US, Mexico, Ireland, Paris and Russia. I now consider Barcelona home.
Barcelona is an eclectic blend of artistic history with modern-day vision. I never miss taking time out for vino tinto and tapas in one of the numerous local café-bars. I always avoid speaking English with locals, unless they really want to practise their English conversation skills. A view: from the top of Montjuïc and Barceloneta beach at night. A building: Casa Milà is one of my favourite buildings. It’s a shame there are not more apartment blocks like this in the city. An inspiration: I feel inspired by the Barri Gòtic, its history and the creative types it still attracts today. I often dream about what it would have been like living there when Picasso, Dalí and Gaudí were stomping those antique tiled floors. A place to go with friends: Marsella is great place to go for a late night absinthe and to sop up the history. No pretence and great ambience. On my to do list: To visit more music venues like the Harlem Jazz Club and Jamboree, and also to try and get some gigs lined up for my musician friends who live in Paris. I think of Barcelona as the sultry Mediterranean cousin to the Parisian underground music scene. About the cover: Barceloneta beach always makes for an inspiring backdrop. I wanted to create a montaged image that captured the carefree spirit of this wonderful city. Barcelona is a constant source of inspiration to me. It’s a constantly changing city that is an artist’s paradise. My photos of Barcelona are always the starting point for endless creativity, inspiring me to break through the medium of photography into other art forms.
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AROUND TOWN
gimme shelter Casa Ronald McDonald and Luz de Gas
Don’t let the name put you off. The Ronald McDonald House is not a fast food joint but a haven for families with critically ill children. It is part of the network of International Ronald McDonald House Charities, residences that provide comfort to children who are hospitalised away from home by giving free residence to their families. Houses are located close to hospitals and provide not only a place to stay but support for parents who are enduring the heartache of seeing their child suffer a life-threatening illness and an often long and difficult treatment in an unfamiliar city. Relying on both corporate and private sponsorship, the non-profit organisation is now in its 39th year. This month, a special benefit concert to raise money for this worthy cause is being hosted at Luz de Gas. On hand to entertain will be internationally acclaimed American jazz artist Gwen Perry as well as the talented Barcelona singer-songwriter, Alma Simonne. Additional support for the event is provided by the American Society of Barcelona, Mark & Brand, Gilco Productions and Freixenet. All money from the evening goes directly to the Casa Ronald McDonald Barcelona. Solidarity Concert. Luz de Gas. June 20th, 9pm www.amersoc.com; www.luzdegas.com See page 29 for an interview with Casa Ronald McDonald patron, Dr. Josep Sånchez de Toledo
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08 THIS MONTH
(ALMOST) ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT: Marriage TO TIE THE KNOT, OR NOT? If you’re thinking of getting hitched, the statistics are not on your side. Marriage rates in Spain are at an all time low, and people are getting married later in life. According to a recent study by the Instituto de la Mujer, the average age to get married (for the first time) has now risen to 34.5 years from 25.8 in 1976, while marriage rates have halved in the last four decades. There has also been a shift in the way people get married, with civil ceremonies now favoured over religious ones. A large number of marriages are doomed for divorce— between 1998 and 2011, there was an average of 116,365 marriage dissolutions per year. Divorce was only legalised in Spain in 1981, and the ‘express divorce bill’, introduced by the Socialist government in 2005, saw a 74.3 percent increase in the divorce rate in a single year. This has resulted in the widespread belief that marriage seems to be weakening as a social institution, and in modern postindustrial societies there has been a rapid changing of family structures. One of the causes of this variation is the rise of cohabitation, especially among young people. Public opinions about the institution of marriage are diverse—while some people think that it is clearly obsolete, others believe that it is a life goal; and those with a more practical point of view opine that it is just some paperwork that needs to be signed to attain a better relationship with Mr. Taxman.
GAY MARRIAGE In 2005, Spain became the third nation to allow gay couples to tie the knot, following in the steps of the Netherlands (2001) and Belgium (2003). When Pope Benedict XVI visited Barcelona in November 2010 to consecrate the Sagrada Família, he also condemned Spain for legalising marriage for gay and lesbian couples. This provoked a ‘kiss in’ protest, where members of the LGBTQI community greeted the popemobile by kissing for five minutes. Under the amendment to the marriage law, the first legal marriage in Spain between two men (Emilio Menéndez and Carlos Baturín) took place on July 11th, 2005 in Madrid. However, the country boasts a much longer history of samesex couples tying the knot. A homosexual marriage took place between Pedro Díaz and Nuño Vandilaz in Galicia way back in 1061, while there was a wedding between two women— Marcela Gracia Ibeas and Elisa Sánchez Loriga—in 1901. Elisa had to pose as a man, ‘Mario’, for the marriage to take place, and the pair were excommunicated and driven out of Spain when it was discovered that Mario was in fact Elisa. The marriage was never anulled and remains valid.
Illustration by Capitoni.
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pitoni.
THIS MONTH 09
METROPOLITan PEOPLe Q. WHY DO YOU THINK PEOPLE STILL GET MARRIED?
Name: SILVIA del Bosque Occupation: Mother/Student/Midwife From: Spain Answer: Maybe they still believe in the family. We need to respect and love ourselves to be able to share love with others. But if you want to marry and you don’t love yourself first, you cannot share; you just want to take.
Name: Jessie Magen and Motke Porat Occupation: Students From: Israel Answer: Jessie: We’ve been thinking about it. There’s no point, except for a legal status—it’s not something that shows our love for each other. Motke: I’m not sure there is a point—it’s just an agreement, a contract.
Name: Andy Stockhausen Occupation: Sports journalist From: UK Answer: Convention, financial security. Obviously love is important—it should be first and foremost, I would think. But people have that love without getting married, so it’s not a prerequisite.
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>>
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10 THIS MONTH
Barcelona? There’s an app for that!
Whether you’re new to Barcelona or have been here for ages, there are any number of useful (and free) apps to help make life in the city that much bit easier.
GETTING AROUND: Barcelona Metro Map mxData Ltd. iOS and Blackberry This app is for you if you need to know which is the quickest metro route to get from, say, Plaça Catalunya to the Sagrada Família (the answer? Take the L3 to Diagonal and then change to the L5) or want to find your nearest metro station. Bicing Ajuntament de Barcelona iOS, Android, Windows 8 and Blackberry In a rush and can’t find a Bicing bike? We’ve all been there. With this app, you can quickly find a list of stations close to where you are and see whether they have any bikes available. Next Bus Barcelona Eduard Ereza Android only Find out whether it’s worth running for the bus with this handy service that gives you up-to-the-minute info about when the next buses are arriving at any particular stop. Trànsit Ajuntament de Barcelona iOS and Android Check out traffic conditions in Barcelona and see live traffic-camera pictures.
LEISURE TIME: decompring iOS and Android Decompring is an innovative way to do your shopping. This application gathers details of your local shops and gives you the option to discover their latest offers; you gain points called compris every time you check out the offers as well as by going to the stores and scanning their products’ barcodes.
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When you’re ready to spend, exchange your compris for gift vouchers or donate the ‘money’ to charity. Barcelona Corre Ajuntament de Barcelona iOS only Discover 23 of the best and most popular running routes in the city. Food2U Bcn2u Mobile Software iOS and Android Hunger has a hold of you but you’re not in the mood to cook or are too tired to go out? Food2u allows you to order food from a selection of restaurants close to your location, leaving you with only one problem: deciding what to pick off the menu.
DISCOVER THE CITY: BCN Paisatge Ajuntament de Barcelona iOS only Barcelona is a city where, many times, it is easy to see the unique features that make it so appealing. But when you are curious to find out more, BCN Paisatge is a useful app that helps you uncover the Ciutat Comtal’s best kept secrets. Divided into four sections (Party Walls, Landscapes, Shops and Near Me), the app gives you details of special points of interest, such as walls converted into visual poems and vertical gardens,
hidden architectural gems and some of its oldest shops. Traductor Softcatalà Xavi Ivars and Marcos Grau iOS and Android Whether you want to enrich your knowledge of Catalan or you’ve just come across a sign with no English/Castilian translation, Softcatalà can offer a helping hand. This app offers translations from English, Castilian, French and Portuguese into Catalan and vice versa. A prop d’aquí Ajuntament de Barcelona iOS and Android Want to know more about what’s going on in your area? Or perhaps you’re hungry and want a quick bite to eat nearby. This app helps you locate various places in your vicinity, such as car parks, restaurants, bars, chemists and libraries. It will also tell you where the closest WiFi spot is.
Got an idea for an app? The Institut de Cultura de Barcelona is sponsoring a contest to find new mobile phone applications that will help people discover the cultural richness of the city. Prizes, including cash awards and a nomination to the ‘Mobile Premier Awards 2014’ are on offer to the winners in four categories: the best application, the most innovative, the most popular with the public and the best Nokia application. More information can be found here: www. appscultura.hackathome.com
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BARCELONA COOKING NATILLAS
Learn how to make the popular Spanish dessert, a local variation on custard
Ingredients 4 tbsp white sugar 3 egg yolks 1 tbsp cornflour 1 tbsp vanilla bean paste 500ml full fat milk
GIVE IT A TRY
Method Whisk all the ingredients together in a pot, put on a high heat and stir until it comes to the boil. At this point, turn down the heat a bit and cook until the mixture becomes nice and thick. Stir every so often so that the mixture doesn’t burn. Once it has thickened sufficiently, place in ramekins or serving bowls and leave to cool. Once cool, place in the fridge until ready to be served. Serve with some galletas María.
COOK & WIN! To win a Silikomart Whoopie pie mat (www.silikomart.com), post a photo of your natillas on Helen Vass’s Facebook page, The Diary of a Cakemaker. Helen will then choose a winner, and their name will be announced on her page. Helen Vass is a British baker based in Barcelona. She is a self-taught baker and has been producing delicious cakes, cookies and cupcakes for 20 years. As well as writing recipes and sharing her passion on the web through her popular blog, www.thediaryofacakemaker.com, Helen teaches baking classes in various locations throughout Barcelona.
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12 culture
MAKING PLANS
A few suggestions about things to do tonight, this weekend, later on...
Anything but pedestrian
Paso de Zebra June 8th and 9th www.pasodezebra.org Paso de Zebra is a trifecta of fashion, art and design. The weekend event is suffused with an underground and Bohemian spirit, creating an open public space for fashion and other modes of artistic expression, including theatre, dance, painting, music, photography and poetry. Now in its fourth year, it has earned its stripes, boasting a range of designers and labels including Andrea Martínez, Alba Casares, Aube, Pendientes Dulces, Luka, Ativ By Vita, RGS and La Nuit Boutique. The catwalk (in Plaça del Pedró) is a space for designers to strut their stuff, but if merely watching the fashion pass by is not enough, designers will be selling their work at Les Galeries Maldà. The streets of the Barri Gòtic and Raval will be filled with Paso de Zebra’s artistic initiatives: Carretes is at the centre of the festival, hosting displays of art and creativity; Aurora offers a space to chill out and enjoy performances; and Vistalegre is hosting the Drap-Art fair, featuring artists who reuse and recycle materials.
On your marks
Dancing in the park
Piknic Electronik June 2nd to September 22nd www.piknicelectronik.es Set at the top of Montjuïc, in the Jardins Joan Brossa, Piknic Electronik is back for its second edition after its successful debut last year. It takes place every Sunday from June 2nd to September 22nd (inclusive) with the exception of the last two weekends in August. Each Sunday afternoon throughout the summer, the Jardins will become a picnic area with fantastic views of Barcelona and a quiet atmos-
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Cursa del Port de Barcelona Midnight, June 22nd. €12 to €22 www.cursadelportdebarcelona.com Love the endorphin rush from a good 10-kilometre run? This new road race is throwing something special into the mix to heighten the thrill—the run begins at midnight, making it the first of its kind around the port. Participants take their marks at the bottom of La Rambla and dash off into the night alongside the Mediterranean Sea, bathed in moonlight, feet thundering to the soundtrack of crashing waves. Runners will receive a running shirt and refreshments after the race; register by June 18th to take part.
phere suitable for all ages. It offers a children’s area with workshops and activities organised jointly with PetitBCN; under-12s get free entry. Later on, the focus changes somewhat. The musical line-up will delight electronic music fans with artists such as Derrick Carter, Carl Craig, Joy Orbison, Nina Kraviz, El Guincho and Guillamino performing on different days until 10pm. On June 23rd, a special event for the revetlla de Sant Joan is being celebrated with a line-up of national DJs.
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culture 13
Music maestros
Rocío Márquez y Stephen Marchionda. Una cantaora andaluza y una guitarra clásica Palau Moja, Portaferrissa 1 June 6th at 8pm It’s concert season and with so much to choose from we recommend an intimate performance that may otherwise go unnoticed. It is an extraordinary opportunity for lovers of classical Spanish music to discover two magnificent artists in the beautiful setting of the 18th-century Palau Moja. The songs of Federico García Lorca, Manuel de Falla and Joaquín Rodrigo will be interpreted by internationally-acclaimed classical guitarist Stephen Marchionda, who has performed solo at venues including Carnegie Hall, Lincoln Center and the Kennedy Center as well as in festivals around the world. Singing with Marchionda is one of this generation’s most outstanding flamenco singers, Rocío Márquez, winner of the Lámpara Minera del Festival de Cante de las Minas, one of the most coveted prizes in flamenco. A short reception with the artists will follow the concert. Tickets can be purchased through Eventbrite at the following address: marquezmarchionda.eventbrite.es or at the Palau Moja an hour before doors open on the night of the concert.
FAD-tastic
Barcelona Design Festival: BCN Design Week and FADfest June 11th to 21st; June 25th to July 11th www.barcelonadesignfestival.com Barcelona’s design scene continues the recent trend of bringing design out of the studios to the general public. The international Barcelona Design Festival will hold over 70 activities, with everything from debates with colour specialists to the Dutch Bike exhibition. There will be workshops for kids and design labs with professionals, as well as an Ecodesign Day. FADfest picks up where Barcelona Design Week leaves off with a fortnight-long celebration of designers from myriad genres: architecture, interior design, graphic design, advertising, industrial design, handicrafts, art and fashion. The works of FADfest prizewinners and finalists are exhibited in ‘FADexpo: the best design of the year’, which will remain open until autumn at FAD HQ in Plaça dels Àngels. Amongst an array of award nights, FADfest presents the 33rd edition of MODAFAD, the catwalk for emerging fashion designers. There will also be a Rock-Paper-Pixel conference where bloggers, magazines and online media devote their discussion to a field that is at once physical and intangible—the design of communication.
MUSE GIVEAWAY. Congratulations to the winner of our double-ticket giveaway for this month’s concert, LILI LAUFEYBRO. To collect your prize, please contact us at editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com
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culture 15
Up on stage
Some of the concerts happening this month in Barcelona Rihanna—Wednesday 1st at Palau Sant Jordi Bat for Lashes (pictured)—Friday 14th at Fira Gran Via, as part of Sónar Lucinda Williams—Friday 14th at Teatre Arteria Paral·lel Paco de Lucía—Sunday 16th at Auditori del Fòrum (Guitar Festival) Joseph Carreras—Thursday 20th at Jardins de Pedralbes Def Leppard + Whitesnake + Europe—Monday 24th at Pavelló Olímpic de Badalona The Smashing Pumpkins—Thursday 27th at Razzmatazz Antony and the Johnsons—Thursday 28th at Jardins de Pedralbes
Twenty at last
Sónar. June 13th to 15th www.sonar.es Sónar is celebrating its 20th anniversary as an international platform for electronic music. During these last two decades, Sónar has created a unique identity that has established it as a world-renowned festival. More than 7,000 artists from both the music and the digital creation spheres have been included in its line-ups and more than 1,200,000 attendants have had the chance to witness them. Despite its 20 years, Sónar keeps reinventing itself. This year, Sónar by Day is relocated in Fira Montjuïc, broadening its space and creating Sónar+D, the evolution of the professional and new media areas of the festival. The line-up of Sónar 2013 looks like the guest list for a perfect birthday party mix, with the Pet Shop Boys, Kraftwerk, Laurent Garnier and Matthew Herbert all making the cut.
Mad Science
A Woman of Many Parts. June 18th to 20th at 9pm and 28th to 30th at 8pm. “Henry, a scientist, brings small animals back to life. Now it’s time to raise a human from the dead. But man or woman? He chooses a woman. What could possibly go wrong?” The Tremayne Company presents A Woman Of Many Parts, a dark comedy revolving around six characters—a scientist, a maid, a spy, an artist, her daughter and her mother. It is a story of love, life and death… and life after death. Written and directed by Hunter Tremayne. Tickets are €15 at the door. Advance tickets can be purchased through Eventbrite for €12: awomp.eventbrite.com. See www.huntertremayne.com for more information and details of venue.
VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM FOR MORE CONCERTS, EXHIBITIONS AND FESTIVALS
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CULTURE 17
festival
Gay Pride is as fun and necessary as ever. By Lucas Cavazos.
Pride BCN
T
he memory of the first Pride festival I ever attended contains flashes of chains and black leather, and an image of diva Martha Wash joined by a writhing legion of go-go dancers. It was the Nineties and I was a mere lad of 19, interning in San Francisco. Being from a devout Judeo-Christian, Mexican-American family, all I could do was stare at the spectacle, somewhat dumbfounded. What surprised me most was the open display of unabashed freedom. While on the one hand, the sight of the hedonism that danced about me both enticed and perturbed the libidinous younger me, the empathetic, sociologist side of me was mesmerised by the way so many LGBTQI people had congregated together in celebration of something universal: civil liberties. There is no way to disconnect Pride from the history of civil rights. One can trace the progress of where we’ve come since the Stonewall riots in Greenwich Village in 1969, while the demise of Franco gave rise to the ‘Movida’ movement and gay rights here in Spain. As a historian and a member of the community, I can’t ignore the fact that Spain has been one of the most open countries in granting complete and utter equality to gay men and women, an equality that now includes adoption. When I look at the hoops my fellow countrymen in the US have jumped through to gain a mere foothold in the government—and still only 10 states recognise the legality of gay marriage—I find that the word ‘Pride’ becomes ever more meaningful. One of the main things the gay community desires is connection and acknowledgement from society. Inherently, everyone has the same desire: to feel and be connected to others, to love and be loved, and be allowed the freedom to express that love and who we are without fear of ridicule, insult or abuse. The past is rife with historical references to gay persecution and an unfortunate lack of gay rights. And the persecution and lack of rights continue to this day, explaining why Gay Pride celebrations are so important and necessary the world over. So, this brings us to Pride 2013. Starting in Madrid in 1979, there have been yearly Pride events held in Spain, and our Mediterranean extrava-
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ganza is simply one of the best. Since its 2009 inception, Pride BCN has gotten bigger and better every year and, despite these troubled times, this year is sure to be no exception. You will find Pride events around the city from June 19th to 30th with the festivities kicking off with cultural activities. On the evening of the 19th, the Antic Teatre hosts a Seventies-style cabaret called El Desplume (reservations essential), while other happenings during the fortnight include gallery exhibits, literary events and conferences. The central focus of the festival will be the Village, located on Avinguda Reina Maria Cristina just off Plaça Espanya. It opens on June 28th, at 10am, with non-stop games, sports activities (including a six kilometre run through Montjuïc), kids’ activities and much more. Highlights include the Friday competitions, such as the High Heel Race and the Drag Queen contest, both of which have cash prizes. On Friday evening, there is a Foam Party on Avinguda Maria Cristina—dress accordingly! The Pride Parade is on Saturday, June 29th starting at Plaça de les Tres Xemeneies, near Paral·lel metro. Preparations kick off at 4pm, while the actual parade gets going at 6pm; it will wind through local streets and end up at the Village. Saturday’s main post-parade event is the Pride Party, starting at 8pm with all manner of entertainment, including the Pride DJs, well into the early morning hours. All of this culminates on the final day, Sunday 30th, with Pride Street Market, held on Diputació between Villarroel and Casanova. Sunday is also Tibidabo Pride Day (midday to 9pm), so from the heart of the city to the mountains, love and pride will be all around. This year’s Pride BCN theme is Besoterapia, so pucker up. Get out there and celebrate yourself, and then turn around and show that love to someone else, especially family, friends and pets. Don’t forget to keep that revolution of love going and be assured that it’s going to come right back to your gorgeous self. Peace! Pride BCN, June 19th to 30th. www.pridebarcelona.org
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18 FEATURE
Another point of view Far from the city centre, Turó de la Rovira has provided both shelter and security to Barcelona residents. Text and photo by Carol Moran.
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itting 262 metres above sea level, Turó de la Rovira offers one of the finest views over Barcelona and beyond you can find. The 360-degree panoramas captivate all those who make the convoluted ascent, but it was the unexpected sight of mismatched tiles underfoot that triggered my intrigue. Standing atop a former military base, a flash of pink glistened in the sun. Not standard army colours, you might say. Located just north of its better-known neighbour El Carmel (home to Parc Güell), this turó (Catalan for hill) is a world apart from the glamour of the Modernista architecture and throngs of tourists found in that area. Here, an eerie sense of abandonment hangs in the air as the wind whistles through the lonely communications masts. Yet beneath the surface, an extraordinary history resides in the strata of this natural mound—from Iberians to industrialists, military post to urban slum.
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Strategic lookout point Since its first Iberian settlement (thought to date from between 800 and 200 BCE), Turó de la Rovira has been recognised as a natural vantage point over the surrounding area and a strategic post. However, it wasn’t until industrialisation and an influx of immigrants that increased the number of Barcelona residents in the 19th century that the city began to encroach upon the turó. Luxury summer residences sprung up, and the nearby quarry at Can Baró provided building materials to the expanding urban giant. The mood changed, however, when the Spanish Civil War broke out. From early 1937 until January 1939, Barcelona was subject to massive and repeated air raids. It was one of the first cities to experience this terrifying warfare, a sinister precursor of what was to come across Europe throughout World War II. Franco delegated the aerial bombing of Barcelona to his Fascist allies, primarily the Italians, who launched a series of deadly attacks from their airbase in Mallorca. On March 16th, 1937, the first of nearly 200 bombardments took place. In response, active defence strategies were quickly mobilised, while the construction, mainly by civilians, of nearly 1,400 air raid shelters was already underway, amongst other passive defence strategies. The active defence strategies aimed to impede the attacks and included coastal artillery, searchlights, acoustic devices, and a small number of anti-aircraft batteries. Turó de la Rovira was considered an ideal location for anti-aircraft artillery and, together with further batteries installed in Montjuïc and Poblenou, a triangular zone of protection was created. In May 1937, the senior military engineer Manuel Vidal drafted an initial project for the Turó de la Rovira battery, although it didn’t become fully operational until March 3rd, 1938, having been modified several times. The built project consisted of four English-made cannons (105mm Vickers), the battery command post, located at the highest point, and accommodation situated between the platforms. Defence of the city, however, was a difficult task. With no radar devices and only primitive detection systems, little or no warning could be given. Intense barriers of vertical fire, through which the enemy had to fly, were generated from the batteries, although inadequate
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ammunition and equipment limited effectiveness. This approach also posed a significant risk to civilians. In addition, the port and old town could not be effectively protected from here, and much of the damage was already done before the enemy came within firing range. During the final months of the war, continuing air strikes combined with advancing overland troops proved too much for the Republican forces and the city fell on January 26th, 1939. The Republican army disabled the canons in Turó de la Rovira, although they remained there for some time afterwards. Throughout the period that Barcelona was attacked from the air, between 2,500 and 3,000 people died, a significant yet surprisingly low figure for such a massive and prolonged assault. Despite the lack of technology, resources and experience, Barcelona managed to organise a coherent and remarkably effective defence strategy—a fine example of its tenacity and capacity for resistance. A room with a view After the war ended, immigration rose once more as the difficult postwar era saw widespread poverty across Spain, with many coming to Barcelona in search of a better life and as part of a campaign by Franco to ‘de-Catalanise’ the region. This huge influx of inhabitants, combined with a chronic lack of housing, left the city bursting at the seams. As a result, shanty towns, or barracas, sprung up in any available spot around the city, from the beach to the hills and anywhere inbetween. This informal city reached its peak in the Fifties when up to 100,000 inhabitants lived in makeshift accommodation, accounting for approximately seven percent of the population. Up in Turó de la Rovira, opportunistic immigrants spotted potential in the abandoned military structures and used them to form the foundations of a new neighbourhood in the Forties—and so Els Canons was born. Despite the challenging topography and harsh exposure of the site, the occupants colonised the former battery little by little, showing great ingenuity in adapting it to suit their needs. Various elements of the military composition soon took on new identities. The officials’ house and command post provided readymade accommodation, the soldiers’ quarters housed a school for
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children during the day and adults in the evening, and circular firing platforms morphed into circular-shaped dwellings and courtyards— part bunker, part barraca. Natural outcrops of rock became walls, forming cave-like structures, characteristic of traditional Andalusian architecture. This makeshift style reflected the origin of many of the inhabitants, but also symbolised the survival instinct that came forth out of necessity; architecture of the people, by the people. There were no plans or designs, just the need to provide shelter—a basic human right. Whilst wandering around the site, I had the good fortune to meet local man Manuel Jover, who kindly shared his memories. His dad was in the Republican army here in Turó de la Rovira, and Manuel grew up just a stone’s throw away, regularly coming up to Els Canons to play. People lived everywhere, remembered Manuel, occupying every square inch with small, crowded shanties, where even irregularities in form were made useful. “Toilets were squeezed into any leftover corners and they connected to a very basic sewerage system,” Manuel explained as he showed me a triangular-shaped corner with a hole in the ground.
A lifetime of memories is embodied in these fragments of the past, and a legacy of hardship and anguish. Limited resources were utilised to the maximum. “People gathered all the construction materials they could find and nothing was wasted,” said Manuel as we stood on the remnants of a tiled floor, paved directly over the battery command post. “The materials came from different sources—military debris, scrap from building sites—that is why the tiles are different colours and sizes.” For many years, there was no infrastructure to support the settlement; it was a community forgotten by the authorities. A lack of basic necessities combined with the awkward, exposed location must have made life in Els Canons an unimaginable daily struggle. Water supply posed the greatest challenge, until the SGAB (Sociedad General de Aguas de Barcelona) installed a water tank close by and an ad hoc fountain was engineered. With no formal access routes, the commute to work provided a compulsory workout. “No gyms were needed,” said Manuel. “People got their exercise just coming and going every day.” Residents constructed staircases within Parc del Guinardó to create more direct routes for their long climb up, some of which are still visible today.
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The collective struggle formed a strong community spirit in Els Canons. “If something needed doing, people got together and did it,” remembered Manuel. In 1972, occupants of Els Canons and other nearby barracas formed the El Carmel Neighbourhood Association, which fought long and hard to obtain a basic service infrastructure, finally installed in the mid-Seventies. Due to its relative isolation and a prolonged fight for suitable rehousing, Els Canons was the last slum to be cleared. This informal urban nucleus spanned five decades and several generations before finally being demolished on November 7th, 1990, thus bringing an end to shanty towns in Barcelona. At its peak, there were around 600 inhabitants and 110 shanties. Today, the traces of human life ingrained in the architectural remnants here are testimony to the harsh reality that immigrants endured and surmounted, and a window to another world— a world that was set apart from the city, as forgotten then as now. For many it is simply a curious backdrop to a breathtaking view, but to those who lived here, a lifetime of memories is embodied in these fragments of the past, and a legacy of hardship and anguish. An uncertain future Less than a quarter of a century later, shanty towns like Els Canons are but a distant memory to the city of Barcelona, now changed beyond recognition. Yet they form an important, though often forgotten, chapter in the city’s history. The story of Turó de la Rovira was recovered when the site was excavated in 2006, removing graffiti, weeds and refuse, to reveal the remains of the past, and it became an official historic site of the Museu d’Història de Barcelona (MUHBA) in 2011. For decades, there has been a controversial urban design project on the drawing board to unite the tres turons (the hills of Creueat del Coll, Carmel and La Rovira) into one giant green space. Plans from 1952 and 1976 failed to materialise, although the idea has not been forgotten. Whether nature will prevail remains to be seen, but currently the plans seem to be on hold, with neighbourhood associations, dozens of homes and a lack of resources standing in their way. For now, Turó de la Rovira sits peacefully in its abandonment, content with its new historical status. Visitors trickle through, some in search of the perfect panorama, others, like Manuel, to reminisce. It is still a relatively unknown mirador to many citizens, but as you gaze over the city with layers of history at your feet, it certainly offers another point of view, in more ways than one.
More info The MUHBA organises a series of English tours focusing on historic sites around the city. Turó de la Rovira is the subject of the ‘War and the Informal City’ tour, held on the first Sunday of the month from 10am to noon. Reservations must be made in advance; email reservesmuhba@bcn.cat or call 93 256 2122, Mon-Fri. €6 Getting there Bus 28 or 24 from Plaça Catalunya, or take the metro to Guinardó (L4) and enjoy the scenic climb up through Parc del Guinardó. Information plaques installed by the MUHBA guide you around the site.
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DESIGN 23
Vall Karsunke
The art of dreaming He describes his earliest representations as dark but, in time, they evolved into ones that he hopes will evoke good vibrations in the viewer. “I imagine the reaction of the person who is looking at my painting,” he says. “I would like it to make them feel happier, provoke laughter.” Vall Karsunke paints from the heart; the characters that emerge are innocent yet potent, with a simplicity that slowly allows the underlying complexities to come into focus, like the dreams from which they have emerged. I first saw his work about three years ago, in a gallery on Montcada. He was painting representations of Mickey Mouse, an expression of his fascination with comic-book characters. Unlike the one-dimensional Disney mouse, Vall Karsunke’s Mickey hinted at something below the surface. The expressions on the faces of his comic book portraits seemed to suggest that they were contemplating the larger questions of life. In part, what makes Vall Karsunke’s work interesting is its personality. Since he began painting, Vall Karsunke has had work exhibited in numerous collective and individual exhibitions and his paintings have won him awards in art competitions around Catalunya. The artist himself is unpretentious; he speaks with a gentle voice, describing the sense of loss he felt after selling his first painting. Artists, particulary painters, will tell you how they become attached to certain pieces. It is easy to see how the characters Vall Karsunke paints—cooks, lovers, the old-style barbell lifters, cartoon characters and gentlemen— each with their own very evocative charm, would be difficult for him to let go. He shares a studio space in Gràcia with his wife, Gemma, who works on large floral displays. He considers himself fortunate; at this point in his career, the work he sells allows him to continue painting. There are three categories of painters, he says: those very few who are supported by their art, those whose art pays for itself, and those who support their art. Still early in his career, Vall Karsunke’s work is already paying for itself. He is currently developing a set of sculptures made from discarded piano keys and he has been commissioned to work on a series of paintings of ‘Mandrake The Magician’, based on a classic Thirties American comic-strip character by Lee Falk. His work is available at various galleries throughout Barcelona and is included in a collective exhibition this month (until the 15th) at L’illa Diagonal, as part of their 20th anniversary celebrations.
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painting Enric Vall Karsunke (Barcelona, 1967) was raised in a family of artists and was a dress merchant when the dreams began. There were two that repeatedly returned; in one he was running either away or towards something, and in the other he was painting. Perhaps the influence of his upbringing was too strong to escape. By Lynn Baiori.
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Move it better Dance, which has long thrived in Barcelona, offers much more than a chance to boogie the night away. By Polly Casson. Photos by Michaela Xydi.
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arcelona is a city that likes to dance. You can find dance schools and clubs that offer everything from waltz classes for weddings to hip hop for kids or salsa for seniors. For centuries, dance has been an important part of the culture and an important local pastime: the opening scene of La plaça del Diamant begins at a dance, for instance, and every festival here includes music and dancing. However, it’s been proven that dance provides a lot more than a great way to spend your free time. As a dance teacher, I have witnessed first-hand the various positive effects that it can have on students, while Dance Movement Therapy (DMT) is a recognised way to treat different ailments, both physical and mental. Dance has been an important part of ceremonial and religious events, self expression and health in most cultures throughout history. Barcelona’s dance scene is a good example of this, with a variety of genres popular here for centuries due in no small part to the cultural melting-pot that the city represents. Gypsy immigration in the 15th century, for example, brought about a diversification in local dance, while flamenco arrived in 1827 with the premiere of La Gitanilla at the Teatre de la Santa Creu (currently known as the Teatre Principal). The salsa scene began to thrive here at the end of the Eighties, although one of Barcelona’s first salsa clubs, ‘Bikini’, opened its doors back in the Fifties. And let’s not forget the sardana, Catalunya’s national dance. An ancient custom with roots that are difficult to trace, it was revived in the 19th century and is still widely danced today. Banned during the Franco dictatorship, the sardana has taken on a larger political significance and has become a unifying symbol of Catalan cultural identity. My student Meritxell, a fervent pro-independence supporter, says “there is nothing like that in any other part of the world and it distinguishes us.” Whatever your motivation, there is no lack of opportunity to get your body moving here. So what are the benefits of an hour or more of dance? DMT is defined by the American Dance Therapy Association as “the psychotherapeutic use of movement to further the emotional, cognitive, physical and social integration of the individual.” The use of dance as a complement to conventional Western medical therapy began in 1942 through the work of Marian Chace, one of the founders of modern dance therapy. In 1993, the Office of Alternative Medicine of the National Institute of Health in the US provided a research grant to explore dance therapy for people with medical illnesses. There are now more than 1,200 dance therapists in the United States and abroad, and in 2001, the Asociación Danza Movimiento Terapia Española (ADMTE) was born here in Spain.
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Isabel Gomà, a Catalan psychologist and trained Dance Movement Therapist, says: “In general we could say that DMT allows you to get to know yourself from a new point of view, explore different aspects in an experimental way, integrating thoughts, emotions and sensations that at times seem disparate.” Using dance as a way to understand the self has taken root in Barcelona. For example, the Yoga Transforma centre in the Bonanova neighbourhood offers group courses in the exploration of subjects such as self confidence and the connection between the mind and body, all done via movement.
“To dance is the closest thing to being happy.” Across the globe, dance therapy is being widely used. In a recent study by The American Cancer Society, a group of breast cancer survivors took part in a 12-week DMT class. The women who had dance therapy showed a better movement in their shoulders than those who had not taken the class, and their perceptions of their bodies also improved. A clinical report done by the same organisation suggests that, “Dance therapy helps in developing body image; improving self-concept and self-esteem; reducing stress, anxiety, and depression; decreasing isolation, chronic pain and body tension.” Technical definitions aside, on a day-to-day basis dance is utilised as a positive means to increase communication skills and feelings of well-being, something that dance teachers bear witness to in every class. My own background is as a Bollywood dance instructor, a career which I began in London in 2003. Bollywood dance provides knowledge of another wonderfully rich culture, one which is steeped in Hindu spirituality. It is also an energetic, at times comical and romanticised musical experience. In 2005, I was dancing in Mumbai, and during 2007, I lived and taught in South America. At the end of 2008, I moved to the Costa Brava to train under the salsa partnership, LatinJam, and so began my own love affair with Catalunya and its dance scene. The job of a dance teacher is multi-faceted—we aim to destroy any bad energy that arrives in the dance studio in the form of tired students, and to turn this into a transformative moment in which one can shake off any accumulated anxiety. An exciting realisation for a dance educator is that the skills gained and the emotions explored in our dance classes can easily be transferred to any aspect of one’s life, both professional and personal. As such, I spoke to various Barcelona-based colleagues about how dance can function as therapy for its practitioners. Sharmini Tharmaratnam is a Sri Lankan/Dutch teacher of classical and contemporary dances from India. She believes that any activity in which you are forced to focus can be perceived as a therapy. “It is scientifically proven how sounds, colours, touch and smells influence the chakras or points of energy in the body, and can really serve as a medical therapy.” For her, dance is freedom. David Cascón García is a Barcelona-born dance instructor. He specialises in lambazouk (the fusion of the Brazilian dance lambada
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with modernised zouk music, which originated in the Caribbean islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique), salsa and bachata, and is director of the company Lambazouk Emotion. He confirms my belief that dance instructors are ‘bad energy destroyers’, quoting the Latin phrase ‘Mens sana in corpore sano’ (a healthy mind in a healthy body). He adds that “there is nothing that I dislike about dance in its purest definition”, highlighting the intensely positive relationship that dancers have with their work. Similarly, Xavi Mártinez López, of the group ZoukLambada Barcelona, says that their motto is, “To dance is the closest thing to being happy.” Maybe the key to dance as therapy is the freedom of expression that it provides. Every student or patient dances differently, which is worthy of celebration. When practised in the supportive environment of a DMT clinic or studio, the group nature of the classes offers a chance to intimately connect with others, whilst curing mental or physical ailments. A dance class offers a dose of self-healing without having to enrol in a specific therapy-based course, but the emphasis is still clearly on the improvement of health. Teaching others to dance is a vocation that improves quality of life and heightens our very sense of being alive.
MORE INFO American Dance Therapy Assocation: www.adta.org US National Institute of Health: www.nih.gov ADMTE: www.danzamovimientoterapia.com Isabel Gomà: isabel.goma@gmail.com American Cancer Society: www.cancer.org
WHAT DO YOU THINK? I asked different dance students and practitioners what they get out of dancing. CARLOS, one of my zouk dance partners: “At a mental level dance offers me peace and a way of escaping, and a [transformation] of problems from negative to positive.” He believes that there should be a consultancy in all hospitals in which they would give prescriptions for an hour or two of dance per day for all illnesses. MÓNICA, one of my students: “For me the word is disconnection. In an hour you have to concentrate on being sexy, romantic, fun, to keep up, to think in the hands and feet... and all the while laughing so much.” Tomasz, a student of lambazouk, is trained in martial arts. Recovering from an accident he decided to drop this potentially dangerous contact sport for salsa. He now combines salsa classes with zouk parties, dancing on a weekly basis. By nature Tomasz is very shy and dance helps him to control his body and gestures much better, and to feel much more confident in various social situations, including giving business talks in front of an audience. Nuria from the group ZoukLambada Barcelona: “To teach dance is to help students get to know their bodies better, to exercise and to smile at life. Smiling is beneficial for the mind and emotions, and in turn helps to combat stress.” Jessica, a salsa and zouk dancer: “Emotionally, how many of us... have felt disillusioned before going out to dance, and once having ended the session have left with our batteries charged and full of vitality?”
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INTERVIEW 29
DR. josep SÁNCHEZ DE TOLEDO Head of Pediatric Oncology and Hematology at Vall d’Hebron Hospital and Catalan of the Year 2012
Winning Catalan of the Year was delightful, but I’m a still a bit overwhelmed! When I got home the day of the announcement [May 14th, 2013], tired and hungry after all the fuss, I realised I had 300 Whatsapps and 200 messages on my phone. In my case, it’s not a personal award. It represents recognition for a group of people from the Hospital Vall d’Hebron. The prize is for the children, the families, the doctors, the nurses, the service staff, the cleaning lady... everyone involved. The good atmosphere in our department stems from the philosophy of my predecessors, Dr. Padruges and Dr. Jordi Prats Viñas, who combined medical practices with humanist principles. We try to bring smiles to the surface. No matter what the situation, there’s a point where hope and positivity come through. My interest in medicine began at five years of age, when I had polio. I remember it being a very important time in my life with the involvement of a lot of medical professionals. I stayed in touch with the doctor who treated me and I suppose it all stemmed from that. I studied at the UAB and got my first job in 1975 as a resident doctor at Vall d’Hebron, and in 1978, moved into children’s oncology. In 2003, I became head of the department of pediatric oncology. I think cancer treatment, especially leukemia, has undergone the most spectacular change. Since 1952, when Dr. Sidney Farrell put the first boy into remission in the US, the development has been phenomenal. Nowadays, 90 percent of cancer in this area can be cured. Years ago, they often had to amputate the limb if the bone was cancerous. Nowadays, the affected bone can be replaced with a prosthetic. It’s been a continuous success of new drugs, new treatments, better use of radiotherapy, and a more sophisticated and elegant surgical approach to different diseases. The introduction of molecular biology in recent years has been more amazing still. It offers a better diagnosis, a better prognosis, and helps us find new drugs for the treatment of cancer, and the survival rate is currently 80 percent. This is probably the greatest success in medicine.
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Empathy is very important in my work. Here, the child is the star and the family, too. We have found that the best thing is to keep them informed every step of the way, the children as well as the adults. At the diagnosis stage, everyone is scared. Some parents blame themselves and can be quite aggressive when they first hear the news. The children don’t understand what is happening. However, if we can explain everything at a level at which they all understand, it creates trust between us and them and they gradually forget their fears. I am also a patron of the Casa Ronald McDonald, part of the international Ronald McDonald Homes Foundation. This offers children and their families a home away from home while they are being treated, and there are around 200 in the world. The home in Barcelona was opened at the turn of this century. It has 15 rooms, a games room, kitchens, a meeting room and a garden. It’s like a hotel. We strongly believe that the child’s bedroom should be a sanctuary, not a place to have treatment. Working in this field has completely changed my value system. I place a lot more importance on relationships, friendships and solidarity and I have a wonderful family. I’ve learned it’s so important to listen to people and not worry about pride or material things, and to not get stressed when the washing machine breaks down. My favourite place in the city is the church and streets around Santa Maria del Mar. I lived near there when I was a boy and it was a happy time. When I am on my own, I sometimes like to write with an ink pen and shave with a blade as a means of holding onto some of the old traditions. Montseny in the autumn is also very special; it offers the most beautiful views. You must choose your words with care. I’ve had many former patients tell me, “20 years ago, you told me such and such”, things I never remember saying! It’s made me realise that words carry responsibility. Interview by Nicola Thornton. Photo by Lee Woolcock.
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A thousand battles Sant Andreu is today a peaceful area of Barcelona, but its past is filled with conflict and rebellion. By Anthony Bain.
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ant Andreu is a quiet, leafy neighbourhood of Barcelona, situated only 15 minutes by metro from Plaça Catalunya. The murmur of families going about their daily business and the remnants of its former village life make it hard to believe that Sant Andreu is a place with a bloody and troubled past. The history of the area dates back to 218 BCE, when it was populated by Romans who took up residence there after the conquest of the Iberian Peninsula, taking advantage of the fertile soil for wine making. However, the first written mention of the area is from 980 CE, when a document of inheritance mentions the settlement’s historical name of ‘Palomar’, described as a place for hunting wood pigeons at the foot of Collserola. It wasn’t until the 11th century that the area was documented as ‘Sant Andreu de Palomar’, named after the local church of Sant Andreu that was the central point of the village. The area flourished peacefully until 985 when the first of several bloody incidents that would come to define Sant Andreu for the next thousand years took place. An ambitious Moorish nobleman called Abi Amir Muhammad (who was known as ‘Almanzor, the victor of Allah’) arrived in Palomar from the lands of Al-Andalus with a brigade of Berber mercenaries as his personal guard. They were crossing the Iberian Peninsula on a campaign aimed at reconquering it for Islam. In Palomar, Almanzor was successful in his religious crusade: he and his men sacked and burned the Parroquia de Sant Andreu, an important symbol of Christianity at the time, and considered one of the region’s leading churches. In 1105, Bishop Berenguer Bernat of Barcelona oversaw the rebuilding of the Parroquia de Sant Andreu as a Romanesque temple, eager to restore it to its former glory and as a symbol of local defiance in the face of the Moorish threat. However, trouble was brewing again for Sant Andreu de Palomar
in 1115 in the form of Ali Ibn Yusuf, the leader of the Almoravid Berber dynasty who led his armies up from Morocco to face Alfonso I of Aragon. His army, renowned for its ‘death over defeat’ ideology, left a trail of destruction across Iberia, burning and sacking every important landmark they came across, including the restored Parroquia de Sant Andreu. The attack was not taken lying down. One of Bishop Berenguer’s successors, Olegarius (who was appointed bishop of Barcelona in 1116), mediated an alliance with surrounding Mediterranean kingdoms against the Almoravid raids that were targeting coastal towns and obstructing trade routes. The bishop saw the potential in Sant Andreu de Palomar as a centre of Christendom and consecrated the church again in 1132, building extra sections onto it with the intention of giving it cathedral-like status. Olegarius was later entombed in Barcelona cathedral and canonised in 1675 for his service to Christianity. After many years of fighting against Islamic forces, Sant Andreu de Palomar bred its own army of foot soldiers. Made up of farmers and shepherds, they took to the lucrative business of becoming soldiers of fortune under the pay of the King of Aragon, as part of the Almogavars troops. These soldiers were well known for their fighting tactics, excelling in the art of attacking cavalry horses, bringing them to the ground so they could then finish off the unfortunate dismounted knights with maces and pikes. One of the most infamous brigades of the Almogavars was the Catalan Company led by Roger de Flor, a former Templar knight. They took the fight to the Byzantine Empire, looting and killing their way across Asia Minor; so infamous did they become that unruly children in many places were warned that if they did not behave, the Catalans would come to get them. In 1640, Plaça Orfila, the central square of Sant Andreu de Palomar, became a footnote in the history of Catalunya. It was the
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The Sant Andreu parish church pictured during the Week of Tragedy, after it had been attacked and burned. Photo courtesy Centre d’Estudis Ignasi Iglésias.
meeting place of The Reapers, a group of local farmers who felt they were being mistreated by the king of Spain, Felipe IV, who had installed troops around Catalunya, garrisoning them here in-between campaigns during which they drove the French out of the Pyrenees. One of the farmers was injured by a Spanish soldier in Plaça Orfila during a gathering and the incident served as the spark that ignited the event called El Corpus de Sang (Bloody Corpus Christi), when, in an act of vengeance, farmers stormed the home of the viceroy of Barcelona and savagely murdered him. The uprising became known as ‘The War of the Reapers’ (La Guerra dels Segadors), and the revolt is still remembered today in the Catalan national anthem while Plaça Orfila became known as the ‘square that weathered a thousand battles’. In 1897, Sant Andreu de Palomar was annexed to Barcelona becoming a district of the city and dropping ‘Palomar’ from its name to become simply ‘Sant Andreu’. This caused some unrest amongst the fiercely independent population, which didn’t like the idea of being under the thumb of Barcelona. Just over a decade later, in July 1909, a week of turmoil began in Barcelona when the Spanish Prime Minister Antonio Maura called up reserve troops from the city’s working classes to reinforce Spain’s failing colonial aspirations in North Africa. Growing discontent amongst the working classes, who feared they were about to be drafted into the military, was ignored by the establishment and Barcelona erupted into a rebellion led by anarchists with anti-colonial and anti-clerical ideals, who took to burning churches and convents. The Parroquia de Sant Andreu was attacked and burned twice during this week, which became known as the ‘Week of Tragedy’. Xavier Gómez, a local historian for Sant Andreu, explains that “from the annexing of Sant Andreu to Barcelona in 1897, there was an undercurrent of discontentment amongst a population that didn’t like the idea of being controlled centrally from Barcelona. During
the Week of Tragedy, with help from the anarchist movement, the population went into full revolt against the establishment.” Some 30 years later, during the Civil War, Sant Andreu became a focal point for Franco and his bombing campaigns. The area is littered with forgotten bomb shelters including the famous landmark of Café Versailles that still exists today in Plaça Comerç, and which doubled as a bunker and underground card den during the fighting. “The government was clever to keep the fighting in Sant Andreu to a minimum by installing two armories,” explained Xavier Gómez. “One which housed the rifles and one which housed the firing bolts. That way the government prevented internal struggles amongst the different factions in the district.” The most recent attack on Sant Andreu took place only 26 years ago. On June 19th, 1987, ETA launched its most prolific attack to date with the bombing of the neighbourhood’s Hipercor by the Comando Barcelona Section; 200 kilogrammes of explosives were placed in the car park of the supermarket located on Avinguda Meridiana. Twenty-one people died and 45 were injured. The attack was seen as a turning point in the public’s perception of ETA and they began to rapidly lose support, with even political members of the Basque nationalist party condemning the attack. A monument to the victims of the bombing by American conceptual artist Sol Watt was erected in nearby park Can Dragó, entitled ‘Tall Irregular Progression’. Today, even though Sant Andreu is a peaceful district of Barcelona, there are still daily struggles: a controversial plan by the Ajuntament of Barcelona to knock down houses that were built at the turn of the century to make way for a green space has the district up in arms. Residents have launched a campaign entitled ‘Salvem el Casc Antic’ (‘Save the Old Town’) to preserve those houses that have been earmarked for demolition. “This is another example of the rebellious nature of Sant Andreu fighting the centralism of Barcelona,” says Xavier Gómez, “showing that we still have village life in our veins.”
32 TRAVEL
On course Across Catalunya there are opportunities for you to learn a new skill, from pottery to wine tasting. By Jay Collins. There’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of picking up a new skill, and Catalunya is rich with learning possibilities, from crafts to wine tasting and adventure sports. Here’s our pick of the best to get you inspired. Pottery in La Bisbal What better place to learn the finer skills of pottery than in La Bisbal, the heart of Catalunya’s ceramic industry? This town is the capital of the Baix Empordà comarca in Girona, and since the 18th century has been a big producer of ceramics, enjoying its golden age in the latter half of the 19th century. Throughout the first half of the 20th century, industrialisation and new materials marked a gradual decline in production, and it wasn’t until the Spanish tourist boom in the Fifties that La Bisbal found its feet once again. Now, the town thrives on the pottery industry once more and is home to scores of pottery producers. It also has its own licensed brand name, ‘La Ceràmica de la Bisbal’. The ceramics school of La Bisbal was founded in 1972 and is situated just outside the town. It is renowned for its high quality of teaching and excellent facilities. Besides pottery courses, they also teach other crafts, including jewellery making, sculpture and furniture restoration. They offer one-day and weekend courses and during the summer they hold one to two week courses. Accommodation facilities are available at the school for people attending residential courses. Prices vary according to the course, but a five-day course can cost around €270, with an additional cost of €150 for accommodation. Escola Ceràmica de la Bisbal www.esceramicbisbal.net
Kitesurfing in Sant Pere Pescador It may look worryingly difficult, but even if you have no experience in surfing or windsurfing (or kite flying for that matter), a good instructor will have you leaping safely over the waves in no time. One of the best places to head is the Bay of Roses on the Costa Brava. Sant Pere Pes-
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cador is a small town located on the huge bay that sweeps from Roses in the north to L’Escala in the south, and is right on the edge of the Aiguamolls d’Empordà nature reserve, which is a protected wetlands known for its wide variety of wildlife and migratory birds. A far cry from other beaches on the Costa Brava that are packed to the gills when the sun comes out, these vast beaches are edged with sand dunes and relatively empty even in the hottest months. The bay enjoys some fine winds for kitesurfing, including the Garbí and the Xaloc, making it a very popular destination for aficionados. The Escuela Española Náutica is based in Can Martinet, just three kilometres from Sant Pere Pescador. They offer courses for beginners costing €150 for one day (for four hours of instruction) or €250 for two days (eight hours of instruction). The prices cover all materials, including wetsuit, and there is a limit of two pupils per instructor. Escuela Española Náutica www.eenautica.com
Rock climbing on Montserrat With rocky hills and mountains aplenty in Catalunya, there’s an abundance of great rock climbing opportunities for every level, from complete beginners to seasoned climbers. The dramatic and beautiful Montserrat massif offers endless climbs with its thousands of jagged needles and big expanses of rock face. So, forget the cable car and opt for an entirely new way of visiting this fascinating mountain. Climb Catalunya offers a number of courses, including the ‘Learn to climb’ long weekend on the Montserrat massif. You’ll learn the basic techniques and how to use equipment safely, and as you acquire the skills you’ll be putting them into practice daily on the rock face. This course lasts four days and the price is €369 per person, including all material and accommodation. Climb Catalunya www.climbcatalunya.com
5/23/13 12:00:52 PM
TRAVEL 33
such as Torres, Codorniu and Freixenet. All the main bodegues offer tours and a short tasting, but if you’re looking to gain more indepth knowledge, El Molí Tours offers a number of different opportunities to acquaint you with the finer art of viticulture. Wine writer and owner of El Molí tours, Paddy Mannion, shares his impeccable knowledge of the region and its produce with his guests and offers many different options from four-day winery tours to a ‘create your own cava’ day. The half-day ‘Penedès cava, wine, food and culture tour’ costs €90 per person. www.elmolitours.com
Diving in L’Estartit It may not be the Red Sea, but the Costa Brava has some great diving available and an abundance of places to learn. The small town of L’Estartit is one of the Mediterranean’s most popular dive destinations. Just off its coast are the Medes islands, a marine reserve made up of seven small islands that enjoy an abundance of natural features, including huge groupers and coral. The area has been protected since 1990 and to avoid any environmental damage, the number of divers is carefully regulated by the dive schools. There are a number of dive sites around the Medes, including the Dofí, a huge underwater cavern. If you’ve never dived before and want to try it out before committing to a longer course, many centres offer immersion or ‘baptism’ courses, which usually last about four hours. After learning to use the breathing equipment in the safety of a swimming pool, you’ll then go for a dive down to between five and 10 metres. These courses are priced at about €70. All centres offer the basic diving qualification course, which is the PADI Open Water Diver. After successfully completing this course, your PADI card enables you to hire equipment and dive at any centre around the world. The PADI course lasts five days and includes five theory classes, five pool dives and four sea dives. The average cost for the course is about €400. Diving centres www.elreidelmar.com www.xalocdive.cat www.costa-brava-divers.com
And something for the soul... Yoga Casa Carrasco is located in an almond and olive grove in the Serra de Cardo mountains, about 15 kilometres inland from the beach town of L’Ampolla on the Costa Daurada. Begin your day with a 90-minute Sivananda yoga class, set outdoors against the inspiring backdrop of beautiful mountain scenery. Accommodation is self-catering in luxury tents and the cost is €40 per night per person, including the daily yoga class and breakfast. Classes are tailored to participants’ needs, so beginners are welcome. www.yogaholidayspain.com Meditation Open Dharma is a retreat set in a nature reserve in Montsant in the province of Tarragona, and since 1999 has offered meditation retreats. Their website also has details of other retreats and courses, including ecology and creativity retreats. They also hold non-residential retreats in Barcelona. www.opendharma.org
Wine tasting in the Penedès The Penedès comarca in southern Catalunya is home to some of Spain’s finest wines and cavas. Considered one of the country’s best wine-producing areas, it is also one of the oldest viticultural areas in Europe. The area has a huge number of bodegues (wineries), from very small producers to internationally renowned, big-name labels
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Set amid woodlands near Santa Maria de Palautordera in the Montseny natural park, the Dhamma Neru Vipassana meditation centre offers 10-day silent meditation retreats. Participants are up at 4am each day and meditate for 10 hours daily. The courses are very popular and it’s advisable to sign up early. www.dhammaneru.org
5/23/13 12:00:54 PM
34 RESTAURANT REVIEW
PAKTA Albert Adrià’s latest venture is another eatery that distinguishes the family name. By Tara Stevens. Photos by Richard Owens.
✪ - NOT WORTH THE TRIP, ✪✪ - COULD IMPROVE, ✪✪✪ - GOOD, ✪✪✪✪ - VERY GOOD, ✪✪✪✪✪ - NOT TO BE MISSED
W
hen it comes to fine dining, I’m actually quite a simple creature at heart. One of my favourite meals ever was at a restaurant in Copenhagen that started with a pickled carrot and a glass of vintage champagne. It was a shock at first, but for some reason it’s the dish out of what must by now be thousands of dishes that has always stuck in my mind. So when a meal at Albert Adrià’s recently opened Pakta started with a carrot steamed in blood orange juice and gomasio (a Japanese blend of sea salt and sesame seeds) with some crunchy puffed rice ‘octopus tentacles’, I gave a little yelp of glee. This was going to be a good night out. Located just across the road from Tickets and 41º, and with a vermutería due to open in July, this section of the Paral·lel is fast becoming the axis of Adrià, and one that is moving into a brave new post-Bulli world. Pakta’s focus is not Catalan, but Nikkei, a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian styles that developed in Lima when Japanese trade routes started opening up about 120 years ago. Adrià’s head chefs Kyoko Li and Jorge Muñoz (from Japan and Peru, respectively) run the joint while he flits around with the air of a slightly worried-looking maître d’. “We’re still learning,” he told me bashfully. “I think if you came back in about a year we’d be better.” It’s all rather sweet and endearing, as is the place, which was designed by Natali Canas del Pozo and Oliver Franz Schmidt of El Equipo Creativo, who came up with a Peruvian loom-inspired interior where multi-coloured yarns criss-cross the walls and ceilings, adding warmth and texture to an otherwise fairly simple little space. On my visit there were two tasting menus, the Nikkei (26 courses) and the Fujiyama (21 courses); by the time I wrote this and rechecked the website, it was integrated into one menú primavera of 23 courses. It sounds like an awful lot, but here it is artfully
balanced and skilfully executed with dishes that are teasing and satisfying in equal measure. On the whole I think multiple courses do better with something light, fresh and fizzy, rather than the wine pairing. A bottle of Champagne Tarlant Rosé (€69) will, admittedly, ramp up the bill, but it is a magnificent partner to food that rolls out in bolts of bright fun flavour. Creamy avocado tofu with a slick of yuzu and a pop of salmon roe, tomato ceviche with iced leche de tigre, and blood orange and beetroot were dishes so clean, fresh and vibrant that I actually felt them starting to repair my various over-indulgences of the past 40 years. Spicy tuna tartar with puffed quinoa and soy wafers on a crisp of nori seaweed was sweet, succulent and verging on addictive. A barely seared chunk of salmon on a buttery yellow potato (causa) and fried causa topped with chicken in tangy tarragon mayonnaise were, by contrast, forms of very posh comfort food. The squid nigiri was a masterful stroke. Try as I might, I’ve never been able to get excited about raw squid, but this was creamy and tender as butter and came with nothing more than a light seasoning of Huacatay salt and lime. Tuna nigiri with mirin sauce seemed dull in comparison. I would probably do pretty much anything for another bowl of Pakta’s sea bass ceviche in a fruity kumquat leche de tigre that packed just enough punch to wake up the tastebuds for the rest of the courses. Eel nigiri was much like any other—not so Iberian pork belly nigiri. I’m pretty sure it’s the naughtiest piece of sushi I’ve ever eaten for unbridled melting fattiness. Suckling pig gyoza? Richly juicy, badly decadent. A chunk of black cod in black garlic and miso sauce with a pickled daikon flower? A wicked way to brighten a slackening palate en route to Iberian pork skewers with grilled pineapple and, finally, a soothing bowl of ají de gallina (spiced stewed chicken).
RESTAURANT REVIEW 35
Head chefs Jorge Muñoz and Kyoko Li
For dessert, little puffs of mochi with strawberries and vanilla cream were so wonderful we begged for them to give us another serving. Meringues flecked in gold leaf to dip in dulce de leche ice cream that’s been blasted with Pisco were inspired, sweet potato picarones (donuts) with dried fig honey and cinnamon tasted of something ancient and mysterious, while a slab of white chocolate printed with edible Japanese cartoons is the cutest ending to dinner I can think of. When you’re as successful as the Adrià brothers, you become an easy target for the naysayers. But I’m struggling to think of a restaurant I’ve enjoyed more in recent years (and I include El Bulli in that). I see Albert as the conductor of an orchestra, Pakta the incubator for latent talent. And to our own special waiter—Nicolás Salazar from Peru, who gave us a second mochi although he didn’t have to—we love you.
Lleida 5. www.pakta.es (for reservations and availability). Tasting menu not including wine, €95. ✪✪✪✪✪
36 QUICK BITES
LU LU TONG By Tara Stevens. Photo by Richard Owens.
T
he sound of someone slurping noodles very loudly can be an extraordinarily attractive thing. Especially when, as they do so, the aromas that fill the air are all pungent, slightly sweet and faintly earthy, like being somewhere else entirely. I am at Lu Lu Tong, an unpromising looking room that is strip lit, but scrupulously clean, crazy cheap and, frankly, kinda bonkers-looking. There are pictures of kittens on the walls and plastic pandas inset into the table tops, but I am told it is the best Chinese in town, and Barcelona’s Chinese population would seem to agree. At lunchtime, the place is rammed with the residents of the several blocks to the north and east of the Arc de Triomf that make our very own Chinatown, and though it’s quiet at night, the food is no less good. Trust that everything is delicious because the menu descriptions really don’t give much away. Or use that age-old trick of pointing at the neighbouring table and saying: “I’ll have what they’re having.” We tuck into handmade wide rice noodles, all silky and robustly flavoured, that had been generously tossed with sliced shiitake mushrooms and beef strips. A heaped pile of mangetout steamed in chicken broth with indecent amounts of garlic is bright as spring
36. Quick bites PDF.indd 42
and devilishly good. Feather light, beautifully tender pot sticker dumplings are deeply savoury and running with the juices of a pork and chive stuffing. Fragrant potato paste dumplings are soft and pillowy, tossed together with bok choy for a pleasing crunch. I’m less keen on the sticky ribs in oyster sauce (too sweet for my taste and not falling from the bone quite enough), but an oceanic sized bowl of wanton soup is like being wrapped in a blanket and given a massage. Just when I think things can’t get any better, fried rice flour buns stuffed with jaggery and black sesame is easily the best Chinese pudding I’ve ever had. But the good news does not stop there, my friends. This little lot washed down with a couple of beers (Lulu Tong does not serve wine, though they don’t mind you bringing a bottle—my ladies bought a bottle of white in the Dirty Duck next door) set us back the grand total of €38 for four. Now that’s got to be worth heading out for.
Diputació 340, Eixample. Tel. 93 265 6178 / 689 438 194. Open daily 1-4pm and 8-11pm. Around €10-€15 per head, including beer.
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38 FOOD & DRINK
FOOD&DRINK
For more in food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking
€ under 20 | €€ 20-30 | €€€ 30-40 | €€€€ over 40 RV Reservation Advised
NEFW &D IN
DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS.
Bar COCKTAILS €5
BAR 68RAVAL
G&T from €5,50
Located in the heart of Raval, Bar 68 has established itself as a classic cocktail joint over the last 12 years. As one of the pioneering hotspots in the area, Bar 68 combines a great atmosphere, cool urban funk and soul sounds, and tasty cocktails, to make this an ideal location for a great night out. Open every day from 8pm until 3am. € Sant Pau 68 I Metro Liceu I Tel. 93 441 3115
NEW IN F&D
Located in the heart of Gràcia, this new, trendy, vintage-style bar combines a relaxed and casual atmosphere with Eighties, jazz, Charleston and swing music. Professional bartenders will awaken your senses with their own creative proposals! Don’t miss ‘Ladies’ Night’ on Thursdays and their complimentary appetiser buffet on Fridays! € Santa Teresa 1 | M 664 727 614 / 695 153 082
SUB ROSA BARBARRI GÒTIC
BOLLOCKS BARBARRI GÒTIC
This cute little bar is a bundle of fun and has an energetic buzz from the mixed crowd of locals and tourists enjoying their fantastic cocktails and shots. Their fresh fruit cocktails are very potent making this a great pre-club place to hang out with friends and warm up for a big night out on the town. A visit to the bathrooms is a must! €
The quintessential rock bar in downtown Barcelona. Covered in posters and graffiti from top to bottom, the bar has the air of an abandoned subway station where daily riffs and whiskey bring together all those who carry rock & roll in their blood. € Ample 46 | Metro Jaume I | Every day 7pm-3am M. 663 710 095 | www.bollocksbcn.com
Rauric 23 | Metro Liceu I Opens at 8pm
NEVERMINDBARRI GÒTIC
MOJITOS €3.50
RUBI BARBARRI GÒTIC
Nevermind is a cult place for those looking for a more alternative scene in touristy Barcelona. Mixing large amounts of grunge music, graffiti and urban sports, they serve up amazing cocktails, special house shots, cheap beer, Happy Hour till 10pm, free freshly-made popcorn, authentic decoration, skate videos and much more. €
Located near the church of Santa Maria del Mar in the Born, this friendly bar has a great vibe with a fantastic playlist and prices that won’t destroy you. They serve the best mojitos in town and have a selection of fun and interesting Asian tapas. Hendricks Gin and all the rest from €5, food from €3 to €4. €
Escudellers Blancs 3, 08002 | www.nevermindbcn.com | Open every day from 7pm
Banys Vells 6 I Opens at 8pm
ANDÚBARRI GÒTIC Andú offers an escape from Barcelona’s mayhem, without sacrificing the fun. The cool music and relaxed vibe draws a diverse and Bohemian crowd making it a warm and spirited bar full of animated locals enjoying a great wine list and classic Spanish tapas, including fantastic Catalan cheeses and hams. €
TUESDAY SPECIALS
OLD FASHIONED GRÀCIA
BAR 32BARRI GÒTIC This bar is one of best kept secrets in the Gothic area; you’re guaranteed a friendly reception from its staff and its fantastic mixture of customers and friends.They have a great list of cocktails, beers and even a bar menu. Their laid-back tunes will be setting the mood every night—so you’ll want to come back again and again. €
Correo Viejo I Metro Jaume 1 I M. 646 553 930 Mon-Sun 6pm-2.30am
Ample 32 | Tel. 93 268 4826 | www.bar32barcelona.com
SUGAR BARBARRI GÒTIC
MANCHESTER BARBARRI GÒTIC
Located in the back streets of Plaça Reial this small bar is renowned for its huge personality and fun vibe. The friendly bar staff dish out great mojitos that don’t cost a mint. Good tune selections, Happy Hour until 11pm and great mingling opportunities make Sugar a sweet spot. €
Manchester Bar brings together friends and music fans to enjoy great tunes from the Eighties and Nineties. From Joy Division to Placebo to The Smiths and all the way through to the Happy Mondays, Manchester Bar has it all. A must-visit place for anyone who knows and loves their music! €
Rauric 21 | Metro Liceu I Opens at 8pm
Milans 5 | Metro Jaume I | Every day 7pm-3am M. 627 733 081 | www.manchesterbar.com
BARRAVALRAVAL Barraval is located at the top of the Rambla de Raval where they have a fantastic terrace for you to enjoy great, seasonal Mediterranean food. On Friday and Saturday nights, they have a live DJ so you can enjoy tasty cocktails in a trendy atmosphere. Weekend menu €12.95. €
TO ADVERTISE HERE IN F&D CALL 93 451 4486 OR EMAIL ADS@BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM
Hospital 104 (Rambla del Raval) | Metro Liceu / Sant Antoni | Tel. 93 329 8277 M. 609 221 400 | Wed-Sat 7.30pm-2.30am, Sat-Sun open at 1pm for lunch | RV
Food & drink June 2013 .indd 44
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FOOD & DRINK 39 Bagel
Delivery BE MY BAGEL GRÀCIA
VITALI PIZZA BARCELONA
Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed. €
Gourmet pizza delivery from 3 locations offering 50+ thin-crust, homemade pizzas. With specials like three large cheese pizzas for €15 and the option to pay by credit card, it makes for an affordable meal at home without all the fuss. Special offer: 2X1 on every Monday home delivery! €
ERS. Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm
Paris 109 I Metro Hospital Clinic Tel. 93 444 4737 Rosselló 270 I Tel. 93 458 0710 Taxdirt 13 I Metro Joanic/Gràcia Tel. 93 285 41 95 www.vitalipizza.com
PIM PAM BURGERBORN
LILIBURGEREIXAMPLE
Here quality is of the utmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are also available and are all prepared on the premises. €
You can choose from four types of burger: classic, cheeseburger, barbecue as well as bacon cheese, for €8 to €9.50. Sides include fries, bbq chicken wings, chicken nuggets and salads. Free delivery. €
Burger
Sabateret 4, Born I Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 I burger@pimpamplats.com Calle Bigai 1, Bonanova, 08022 I Tel. 93 211 5606 www.pimpamburger.com I Every day 1pm-12am
Tel. 93 458 0710 I Tue-Sun 1pm-4pm and 7pm-11pm www.liliburger.com
Cocktails €1 BEER BEFORE 9PM
PALAU DALMASES COCKTAIL BAR BARRI GÒTIC Located on Carrer Montcada, just by the Picasso Museum, the Dalmases Palace is one of the most notable city palaces from the 16th century. This gorgeous palace of Baroque influence is a testimony to the artistic, political and cultural life of Catalunya. With live music every day, it’s the perfect place to drink a cocktail and enjoy their live flamenco, opera and jazz show starting at 9.30pm. €
Montcada 20 I Tel. 93 310 0673 espaibarroc@gmail.com I Open every day from 8pm
7SINS BAR AND LOUNGE EIXAMPLE E If you’re looking for a friendly and good value place to get a bite to eat, 7Sins is the place you’re looking for! The menu has a vast selection of dishes to share as well as a large choice of gourmet 100% beef burgers. After your meal there’s an elegant lounge with Chesterfield sofas and impressive decor, ideal for having a drink or cocktail. 7Sins also has a terrace where you can enjoy a meal or a drink outdoors. You can see their full menu at www.7sinsbar.com. €
Muntaner 7 | Metro Universitat Tel. 93 453 6445 | www.7sinsbar.com Mon-Sun 1pm till late | RV
Food & drink June 2013 .indd 45
MESSIÉ PIZZAGRÀCIA Messié Pizza is the new place in Gràcia that strives to be cheap and cheerful. It’s the perfect venue to have a few drinks after going to the cinema or theatre, or simply for meeting up with friends. In this charming Gràcia spot you will have the pleasure of sampling a great pizza with a homemade thin and crunchy base, topped with fresh ingredients from the local market. Messié Pizza offers all of this at a good price and in a unique atmosphere decorated with style and great music. Home delivery is also available. €
Torrent de L’Olla 65 I Tel. 93 218 9345 I Metro Fontana / Diagonal Mon-Fri 6pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun 6pm-Midnight I Tel. 93 218 9345 I www.messiepizza.es
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40 FOOD & DRINK Vegetarian
Mediterranean
AMALTEAEIXAMPLE E
PATXOCA BORN
Visit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant, where a warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Menu of the day €10.70, night and weekend menu €15.30. €
This fantastic restaurant has tapas and traditional dishes that use local and seasonal produce, including vegetarian options, all prepared in a home-cooked style. Enjoy a daily menu from Monday till Saturday, and brunch on Sunday! Patxoca also has a beautiful terrace on a pedestrianised street, with a children’s play area just next door. They don’t use MSG. Every Saturday night, come and enjoy dinner followed by a DJ–and get a free shot! €
GOVINDA (VEGETARIAN) BARRI GÒTIC
Mercaders 28 | Tel. 93 319 2029 Close to Santa Caterina market Mon-Sat 10am-2am, Sun 10am-3pm, 8pm-midnight
Plaça Villa de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 www.amalteaygovinda.com | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm
Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | www.amalteaygovinda.com Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm, Closed Sun
Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, nonalcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. €
Vietnamese MAGNOLIA BARRI GÒTIC
Main dish take away €5.95
In the heart of the Gothic quarter, Magnolia offers exquisite signature cuisine from chef Gianni Fusco at affordable prices. With its warm and loungy interior, it is the place of choice at any time of the day. During the week, breakfast and lunch menus attract big crowds thanks to their great quality and reasonable prices. In the afternoon, clients can choose from a variety of tapas or enjoy mojitos for just €3.50. €€
LA VIETNAMITA GRÀCIA/BORN
La Vietnamita is a Vietnamese street food-inspired restaurant in the heart of Gràcia. This month, they open a second restaurant in Born next to the Chocolate Museum and old market. They serve light and nutritious dishes such as traditional Pho soup, savoury rice noodles like Bun Bo, and a variation of fresh Vietnamese rolls and appetisers. All of their dishes have a vegetarian version and they aim to work with local or organic products and fresh ingredients while maintaining reasonable prices. Main dish take away €5.95. €
Breakfast from €2.70, Lunch from €9. Dinner menu €17.95 (Sun-Thurs) €25 (Fri-Sat) Ciutat 5 | Metro Jaume I | 93 304 2376 | 691 504 942 noche@magnoliabarcelona.com | www.magnoliabarcelona.com | www.facebook.com/magnolia.rna Mon-Thurs 9am-1am, Fri 9am-3am, Sat 1pm-3am, Sun 1pm-1am
Torrent de l’Olla 78 | Tel. 93 518 1803 Comercio 17 www.lavietnamita.com
COCKTAILS FROM €3.50
BODEGA GRANADOS EIXAMPLE E Opened in December 2012, Bodega Granados is causing a stir in the Eixample district. It is the perfect tapas bar, combining stylish decoration, exquisite dishes and an extensive wine cellar. And, if you prefer sitting outdoors, then the magnificent terrace is for you. Granados is the ideal place to spend any time of the day, from breakfast to the last gin-tonic of the night. So come on in and experience why Bodega Granados has quickly earned a reputation for the finest great value tapas in Barcelona. €€ Enric Granados 6, 08008 | Tel. 93 323 8727 www.bodegagranados.com Mon-Thurs 8am-1am, Fri 8am-2am, Sat 9am-2am, Sun 9am-1am
Thai THAI GRACIAGRÀCIA Expect authentic ingredients all imported from Thailand and cooked by experienced Thai chefs. The Pad Thai and green and yellow curries have excellent subtle flavours. Simply delicious! The special tasting menu for €21 is a huge hit and allows you to try all the exotic dishes Thai Gracia has to offer. An affordable €12 menú del día is available during the week. The warm hospitality and attention to detail to every dish at Thai Gracia will keep you coming back for more. €€
Còrsega 381 | Metro Verdaguer / Girona Tel. 93 459 3591 | www.restaurante-thai-gracia.com Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV
Food & drink June 2013 .indd 46
BUN BO VIÊTNAMRAVAL Now you can satisfy your craving for fresh and healthy Vietnamese food in the heart of the Raval. Following the success of their first restaurant next to the Gothic Cathedral, Bun Bo has recently opened a second restaurant on the other side of La Rambla where you can find all your favourite Vietnamese dishes such as prawn and mango salad, savoury pancakes, Vietnamese pork sandwich or a classic chicken or seafood curry. Try their Pho (the house speciality) a traditional soup with flat rice noodles which is jam-packed with fresh vegetables and herbs. If you’re a vegetarian you can also find tasty options like Com voi rau which is fried rice with cauliflower, broccoli, zucchini, carrot and onions for under €7. Try the lunch menustarter, main, dessert and a drink for only €9. €
Carrer Dels Angels 6, 08001 | Tel. 93 412 1890 | Fri-Sat 1pm-1am, Sun-Thurs 1pm-12am www.bunbovietnam.com
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BEAUTY
BUSINESS
BUSINESS DIRECTORY 41
DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS.
To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com
Scissors of London BRiTiSH HAiRdReSSeR
HAIR CUT AND HOT SHAVE FOR €27
BCN Cuts - BARBeR SHOP
Tim aspires to listen to your needs and suggests how they might be met in distinctive and exciting ways. Style is unique and Tim will craft you a look achieving a harmony of shape and style. Tim has been hairdressing for over 12 years, and has trained, taught and worked in London’s top salons including Toni & Guy and vidal Sassoon. Tim works to fit in with the modern pace of life and offers a one to one service around your needs.
directly from Boston to Gràcia comes BCN Cuts Barber Shop to offer you time to relax surrounded in a welcoming environment. with a drink in hand and jazz music playing in the background, you can have a hair cut or try their hot lather shave the classic way. BCN Cuts is a traditional barber shop with a contemporary atmosphere. You will keep coming back for the excellent service.
Carrer Viladomat 45-47, Atico M. 633 382 787 timbulmer@btinternet.com www.scissorsofldn.com
Gran de Gràcia 223 T. 93 611 1813 bcncuts@gmail.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm
10% OFF
Kinki - HAiRdReSSeR Kinki peluqueros is an international hairstyling group from Holland with over 40 salons in their home country. They put their heart and soul into cutting and colouring the most beautiful hairstyles, from the latest trends to classic cuts. if you bring a friend for a full treatment they will give you both a 15% discount and a free glass of cava. english, Spanish, dutch, German and french speaking.
Pintor Fortuny 14, Raval Metro: Catalunya (L1, L3) T. 93 302 3379 www.kinkipeluqueros.es Open Mon 4pm-8pm, Tues-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat 10.30am-8pm
10% OFF
Anthony Llobet English Hair Salon - HAiRdReSSeR don’t let your Spanish come between you and your hair. Anglo-Catalan Anthony Llobet has over 20 years of experience in hairstyling and a passion for excellent client service. Anthony leads a dedicated team of stylists who specialise in a variety of services, including Afro hair, extensions, straightening and make-up (and speak over 11 languages between them). The original retro interior and friendly staff create a very special atmosphere where you can relax and enjoy a stylish cut. Put your trust in Anthony and the team, who are strongly committed to providing you with outstanding service at affordable prices. Barceloneta, Almirall Churruca 8 T. 93 221 1612 / M. 619 224 695 Gràcia, Ros de Olano 19 T. 93 218 0449 / M. 692 371 307 Raval, Sant Pau 122 T. 93 441 3177 / M. 692 371 308 El Born, Carders 34 T.93 295 4871 / M. 692 371 404 Gòtic, Avinyó 34 T. 93 301 4513 / M. 692 371 405 www.anthonyllobet.com
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The Vital Touch - MASSAGe The vital Touch Massage clinic helps you relax, energise, re-balance and improve your health and lifestyle with a therapeutic, holistic full-body massage. - enjoy a revitalising Spring massage with homemade oils, while relaxing to soothing music. Makes you feel fantastic! - Helps relieve tension, reduce stress, detoxify your body and boost your self-esteem. -Central Barcelona location. english, Swedish and Spanish spoken.
M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com
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42 BUSINESS DIRECTORY €100/hr COUPLES
BEAUTY · DENTISTS
Ambrosia - URBAN SPA Treat yourself to a moment of luxury for your body, mind and spirit. At Ambrosia Spa, nature and science blend harmoniously to assure the finest skin care, massage and spa treatments. They use the best oils and lotions, and the finest ingredients to exfoliate and soften the skin, including a new ‘cava-therapy’ treatment. You can also try their Depiflax wax to ensure gentle and effective hair removal. Their authentic Japanese treatments are done by expert Yoshitaka Nagata. Passatge Domingo 9, 08007 T. 93 186 3342 / 628 317 320 info@ambrosiaspabcn.com www.ambrosiaspabcn.com
Pascual La Rocca - deNTiST with 15 years of experience and academic excellence, dr. Mónica and dr. Andres Pascual La Rocca open the doors of this new dental centre which features the latest in dental technology and equipment, and a warm, friendly atmosphere. in an international environment, they strive to make their patients feel comfortable and cared for. english, italian, Spanish, Catalan and Portuguese are spoken.
Vilamur 15, 08014, T. 93 119 1931 plr.odontologos@gmail.com www.plrodontologos.com
SPECIAL OFFER
Dr. Christian Eickhoff deutsche zk - deNTiST Highly recommended among the international community, they use the latest in dental technology such as digital prosthetics and orthodontics. The entire German team is english speaking and the doctor has an American training in implantology and orthodontics. Check-ups and x-rays are free. Centrally located.
indulge your senses at The Oriental Jasmine, an all-natural day Spa. Have a girly talk with your friends while enjoying your manicure and pedicure. Relax and beautify yourself with their signature Philippine Hilot Massage and a wide range of other beauty secrets, such as threading, done with love and care. The warm chill-out atmosphere makes it ideal for beauty parties and unwinding. Muntaner 88, 08011 Metro: Hospital Clínic (L5) Universitat (L1, L2) T. 93 453 7551 info@orientaljasmine.com Facebook: The Oriental Jasmine
Dr. Alistair Gallagher -
deNTiST
The British dental Clinic has a patientfriendly philosophy that combines aesthetics, youthful appearances, and a commitment to total oral health. Conveniently located in Barcelona, they offer orthodontics including fast Braces and inman Aligner, implants, cosmetic dentistry, whitening and general family dentistry. Their talented, conscientious and friendly staff will help ensure that you comfortably receive the healthy and beautiful smile that you deserve. Diagonal 281 Metro: Sagrada Família (L5) Monumental (L2) T. 93 265 8070 M. 607 332 335 info@thebritishdentalclinic.com www.thebritishdentalclinic.com
Dra. Susana Campi - deNTiST for all your dental needs, a team consisting of our first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. we have more than 30 years of experience and are pleased to offer you our services in english, German, french, italian, Spanish and Catalan.
Consell de Cent 249, bajos Metro Universitat (L1/L2) T. 93 323 9629 info@deutsche-zk.com
Rosselló 95, local, 08029, Barcelona Metro: Hospital Clínic (L5) Entença (L5) T. 93 322 9114 Fax. 93 322 0220 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com
Tingsvall & McCarthy -
Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic -
This eco-friendly clinic promotes great patient care using natural products. The Swedish-trained dentist dr. Stefan Tingsvall is on hand to provide a very caring way of treating people—he solves the problem and gets the job done. Qualified USA-trained dental hygienist elena McCarthy provides education on preventive care using effective herbal rinses and essential oils. She also offers the leading teeth whitening treatment ‘Brite Smile’.
Sanz Pancko dental Clinic in Barcelona provides excellent oral care in an english speaking environment. dr. Nancy Pancko, an American dentist trained at Columbia University in New York, is a board-certified orthodontist. dr. Javier Sanz is an American boardcertified periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university. Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care.
deNTiST & deNTAL HYGieNiST
Castellnou 47 T. 93 205 1903 M. 636 312 522 / 696 664 430 FGC Les Tres Torres (L6) Bus: 16, 30, 66, 70, 72, 74 tingsvall.mccarthy@gmail.com www.tingsvall-mccarthy.com
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The Oriental Jasmine -
dAY SPA
deNTiST
Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 T. 93 246 9043 www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm
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DENTISTS · DOCTORS · PSYCHOTHERAPY
Dr. Boj - deNTiST
Dr. Steven Joseph - dOCTOR
dr. Boj and his team provide specialised comprehensive pediatric dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. dr. Boj also lectures about all treatments related to these age groups, including laser dentistry.
established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care for the english-speaking community in Barcelona with access to all medical specialties and tests. His practice includes mental health.
Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro: Les Corts (L3) T. 93 330 2412 M. 627 669 524 stevedoc1965@gmail.com www.googolmedicalcentre.com Open Mon-Sat
Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org
Nick Cross - PSYCHOLOGiST / PSYCHOTHeRAPiST
FREE CONSULTATION
Hestia - PSYCHOTHeRAPY The Hestia international Centre of Psychotherapy has become a reference in the city. The professional team works with individuals, couples and families through psychotherapy, coaching, counselling, clinical hypnosis, art therapy, NLP and eMdR. They speak english, Spanish, french, italian, dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, and Catalan. The first consultation is free.
Nick Cross is a registered psychologist, specialising in psychotherapy. Psychotherapy can help you with the causes of distress and unhappiness and it provides treatment for anxiety, fears, relationship difficulties, depression, problems adjusting, loss and trauma.
Passeig Sant Joan 180 Pral 2a Metro: Joanic (L4) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es
M. 644 193 825 ncross@copc.es
Jonathan Lane Hooker -
Eugenia Espinosa PSYCHOTHeRAPY
PSYCHOTHeRAPiST
eugenia is a dedicated professional who specialises in psychological issues related to immigration. She offers effective treatment for mood and anxiety disorders as well as couples and family therapy. The first consultation with eugenia is free.
Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life. An english-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people. Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.
T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com
M. 677 090 479 genaespinosa@yahoo.com
Institute Dr. Natalia Ribé AeSTHeTiC MediCiNe
Dr. Natalia Ribé is qualified in Medicine and Surgery, with a Masters in Aesthetic Medicine and Aging from the UAB. She offers the latest techniques in the field of aesthetic medicine, including botulinum (Botox), laser and collagen induction treatment, tailored in each case to provide a comprehensive rejuvenation. english, Spanish, Catalan, french and italian spoken.
Passeig de Gràcia 60, 3A T. 93 272 4228 M. 678 720 581 info@institutnataliaribe.com www.institutdranataliaribe.com
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BUSINESS DIRECTORY 43
€15 OFF
Tania Spearman -
ACUPUNCTURe
Make acupuncture your first choice, not your last resort! Tania is offering all Metropolitan readers a €15 discount on first appointments with this voucher. Acupuncture treats many conditions from pain, stress and depression to infertility and more. Call now to make your appointment or to see if acupuncture is right for you. Tania is a UK university trained acupuncturist with her own clinic in the centre of Barcelona. english, Spanish and German spoken. Enric Granados 133, 4-1 bis 08008 M. 644 322 161 info@taniaspearman.com www.taniaspearman.com
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44 BUSINESS DIRECTORY
HEALTH · LIFE COACH · SCHOOLS · TRANSPORT
Centre Medic Matterhorn-
Krishinda Powers Duff
The Centre Medic Matterhorn is an holistic medical centre, where the reliable and professional team will help you to solve your health problems and promote an integral psychophysical health program. Our specialists in holistic medicine, general practice, sports medicine, osteopathy, physiotherapy and massage will be pleased to take care of your needs. English, German, Spanish and Catalan spoken.
Krishinda is a fully-qualified and trained British midwife offering home birth and home dilatation services. She also provides antenatal and postnatal care and support to mothers and babies for six weeks after birth. She is supported in her practice by a team of Spanish but British-trained midwives and alternative health care professionals as well as a breast feeding consultant/Doula. Midwife means ‘to be with woman’.
Bsc Hons - Midwife
Holistic Medicine
Lepant 303-305 2º 4ª T. 93 347 6529 Metro: Sagrada Familia (L2, L5) info@centremedicmatterhorn.com www.centremedicmatterhorn.com
Marenostrum Centre de Salut familiar
Fontanella 16 Principal, 08010 M. 665 143 437 krishinda@gmail.com
Pharmacy Serra Mandri -
Hypnosis Consult Hypnosis
CHEMIST
Having quit smoking using hypnosis himself, Stephan Moellmann knows that you too can effectively quit smoking using his method, with no withdrawals or anxiety. Unlike replacement programes, hypnosis effectively breaks the smoking habit from day one–meaning no six month cravings. His method consists of a two-hour session, either in a group or privately.
The helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this wellknown Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and also offers a home delivery service.
M. 696 738 852 info@hypnosisconsult.com www.hypnosisconsult.com
Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemist T. 93 416 1270 Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm
Natalie Jovanic - life COACH
BCN L.I.P. LANGUAGE SCHOOL
Are fears controlling your life? Are you overwhelmed by unpleasant emotions such as sadness or shame? You can break free of this vicious circle. Contact Natalie today and she will accompany you on your journey to help you find the freedom and empowerment to live your authentic life. You will feel happier and energised with more self-esteem. She offers coaching for individuals and relationship coaching.
BCN L.I.P. Languages is a small school with a warm and welcoming atmosphere in Barcelona’s old town. They offer both intensive and extensive courses and it’s the perfect place to ensure success in your language immersion. The centre is equipped with the most advanced facilities to enable you to succeed in your chosen language.
M. 693 236 929 nataliej@jovanic-coaching.com www.jovanic-coaching.com
T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com
Van BCN - Removals VanBCN offers experience, good service and inexpensive rates to make your move or removal safe and easy. Whether you are looking for a man with a van for a quick move or if you want to do a complete removal, just call or send your request online. VanBCN adapts its service to your needs. They can pick up your stuff or take it to the port, airport or storage. Deliver your purchases from IKEA or any other shop to your home. Move your office, your room or your house. Just contact VanBCN. They know how to do it. T. 93 426 7684 M. 647 533 344 www.vanbcn.com
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10% OFF
Mondorent - RENTAL MONDORENT is the leader in motorcycles and scooter rentals in Barcelona. With over 500 vehicles distributed throughout Barcelona and the Balearic Islands, they offer a fun, new way to see the city. You can rent a scooter, a motorcycle, a quad or a bike. And don’t miss out on their newest offer, the Renault Twizy electric cars. It’s never been more fun and easy to experience the city like a native. Be Free! Rent a Scooter! Passeig Joan de Borbó 80-84 Passeig de Colón 24 T. 93 295 3268 info@mondorent.com www.mondorent.com
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BUSINESS SERVICES
BUSINESS DIRECTORY 45
Geo Mac - COMPUTERS George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.
M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com
Mrs.Q design studio - GRAPHIC DESIGN
Michaela Xydi - PHOTOGRAPHY
Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services from branding to graphic design, web design, ceramics, photography and bespoke invitations. Whether you have a new concept in mind that you want to see brought to life or need assistance rebranding your company, contact Mrs.Q design studio. At Mrs.Q design studio they love to design creative, engaging brand identities that help their clients flourish. They will help you bring some of your personality to your brand and use their knowledge of colour, passion for typography and creative flair to create an identity that engages your customers. They specialise in bespoke wedding invitations, tailor-made to suit the style of your wedding. Match your wedding invitations with save the dates, menus, place cards and thank you cards to create a polished look. They are now offering wedding stationary packages.
Are you are looking for photographic services for portfolios, books, events and advertisements with economical prices and outstanding results? Then contact Michaela Xydi now to discuss what you would like to create. Michaela is an artist. She has a wealth of experience in both photography and design, which is reflected in her skillful eye for detail and the elegant style of her work.
M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com
M. 600 60 40 22 xmikela86@gmail.com www.michaelaxydiphotography.com
Sánchez Molina -
SERVICES
The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.
They help small businesses and entrepreneurs to increase their profit margin by sharing their marketing knowledge and creativity with them. How? By creating a successful brand, understanding the market dynamics, creating a marketing strategy and communicating effectively with the target audience. www.creategy.es
Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com
Written communication, copywriting, editing, translation. They offer a unique blend of business knowledge, creativity and excellent writing skills, allowing them to create high quality content in Spanish and Catalan. www.textolia.net
Spain Accounting -
Green Bean Coaching -
Tax AND Accounting services
Qualified UK accountant with 25 years’ experience in Spain offers: · Tax services for freelance ‘autónomos’ & companies · Income tax returns for employees & non-residents · Registration of ‘autónomos’ & company incorporation (SL) · Practical advice on setting up a business in Spain · Fast, reliable email service
Call David Cook 678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com
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Creategy Consulting -
LEGAL PRACTICE
BUSINESS Coaching
Helps small businesses and entrepreneurs grow their business through coaching proven growth techniques that have helped thousands boost their income. New for 2013: · Two small business programmes: Increase productivity in the workplace and increase your free cashflow coaching. · New online entrepreneur coaching: A cheat sheet to entrepreneur success—the 10 critical areas one must master when launching a business. T. 93 112 6757 admin@freegreenbeans.com www.freegreenbeans.com
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46 BUSINESS DIRECTORY
BUSINESS SERVICES
FREE REVIEW
The Spectrum IFA Group - iNdePeNdeNT fiNANCiAL AdviCe Providing advice to the english Speaking international Community. Our team is here to help with: • Pensions/ Retirement Planning • Savings & Investments • Life Cover • Health Insurance • Currency Exchange • Mortgages • Tax Planning • Asset Management Why call us for advice? We are independent, regulated, qualified and very experienced, with offices in six European countries. Through our unique client centred approach, we will work together to build a strong, ongoing relationship that you can depend on for support and advice whenever you need it. Passeig de Gràcia 63, Principal 2A, 08008 T. 93 665 8596 barcelona@spectrum-ifa.com www.spectrum-ifa.com
BritSat - TeLeviSiON SeRviCe BritSat offer the best Tv packages from the UK, ireland and much of europe, including Russia. They have been installing satellite Tv in Catalunya for 15 years and have an excellent reputation for quality, reliability, price and aftersales service. * Sky cards with or without a UK address * All the latest Sky Hd equipment * Sound systems and multi-screen viewing freesat services will almost certainly be lost to this region of Spain by the middle of summer and BritSat have the solutions. * They supply and install all the latest internet-based Tv systems * No internet? No problem, they are the official installers of the market leading TOOwAY Satellite internet system * extensive channel list from the UK and ireland. M. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com
INTERESTED IN JOINING OUR SALES TEAM? Easi-Sat - TeLeviSiON SeRviCe Have you lost Channel 5 and others? By summer 2013 most people will lose access to a wide range of UK freesat channels. Solutions? They have them. Call them for details and options. Specialists in satellite Tv, Hd, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reliability. For a personal, efficient and friendly service, call the specialists. Their professional team provides satellite television from across europe at unbeatable prices! for more information on new changes to freesat follow them on facebook/easisat and Twitter ‘@Paulduval15’
Requirements: · english and Spanish speaking · Have sales experience · Self motivated, dynamic and organised
Send your CV to accounts@barcelona-metropolitan.com T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 enquiries@easisat.net www.easisat.net
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www.barcelona-metropolitan.com
5/23/13 1:15:03 PM
DIRECTORY 47
SHOPPING for more shopping visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/shopping
BOO
OJALA!
Born in 2006 with the intention of looking for brands that have a story to tell. Each season, BOO carefully selects products of historical labels (such as Penfield, The Cambridge Satchel Company and Saint James) for which they feel a special affinity, along with emerging brands that are full of potential. BOO’s story is embodied in these special products and you can find them in their vintage, Brit-inspired shop in Gràcia.
OJALA! is the fashion brand by Paloma Del Pozo, hailed as one of today’s most original and creative Spanish designers. Her new Barcelona boutique is located on a charming street in the Gothic quarter, only 50 metres from the Plaça Sant Jaume. Del Pozo designs joyful, colourful and elegant quality garments that will make any women stand out in a crowd.
CABOCLO HAND MADE SHOES
24 KILATES
Baixada de la Llibreteria 8 · T. 93 317 2929 www.caboclobrasil.com
Comerç 29 · T. 93 268 8437 · www.24-kts.com
Hand made by the best artisans from the north of Brazil, the Caboclo team defines themselves as an Eco & Social company. Each sandal and shoe is made with chrome free leather, and uses recycled tyres to form the sole. Visit them just steps from the city hall and look over their unique and elegant styles that compliment an easy going lifestyle. Don’t miss the sustainable decoration!
Located in the Born shopping area, this exclusive streetwear store has become internationally renowned thanks to its exciting design collaborations with many famous brands like New Balance, Stussy, Reebok, Lacoste, Puma, Asics, Nike, Saucony, Adidas, New Era and more. Definitely worth a look.
EL MUNDO DE HAMACAS
CONTI
Bonavista 2 · www.boobcn.com www.facebook.com/boobcn
Josep Anselm Clave 3 (Drassanes) · Mon-Sat 10.30am-2pm, 4pm-8pm · T. 93 317 5115 · www.mundodehamacas.es
Ever thought of spending your mid-day rest in a comfy, restful hammock, rather than on the old living room couch? You can find this friendly hammock heaven just 25m off La Rambla (close to the Columbus statue) in the historical centre of Ciutat Vella. El Auténtico Mundo de Hamacas offers high quality hammocks in different sizes and styles, suitable for all.
L’illa shopping center, Diagonal 512 · T. 93 416 1211 · www.econti.com
Designer clothes shop with top brands–G-star Raw, Franklin & Marshall, Replay, Antony Morato, Gola, Superdry, Cruyff, Bikkembergs, Adidas, Diesel, New Balance–and more.
GREY STREET/SATAN’S COFFEE CORNER
PARRUP
Peu de la Creu 25 · T. 600 334 639 www.facebook.com/GreyStreetBarcelona
Banys Nous 20 · www.parrup.com www.facebook.com/ParrupBarcelona
A small corner where the best coffee products meet gifts and garments from all over the world, including many local designers. Located in the Raval, Grey Street and Satan’s Coffee Corner brings you a wide range of goodies from new and vintage clothing to stationery, ceramics, jewellery, teas and a number of coffee varieties. Plus Satan’s coffee corner offer 3-day coffee courses. You’re sure to find something you like!
PARRUP brings together the best from local designers, carefully selected unique pieces, limited edition products and finely crafted clothes, jewellery, art and furniture.Why PARRUP? Because they love talented people. Because they want to showcase what they can offer. Because they believe in the local economy and production transparency. Because they don’t believe in the ‘made in Asia’ business. Nothing more but nothing less.
CALADAZUL
BATEAU LUNE - TOYSHOP
Torrent de l’Olla 62, 08000 · T. 93 416 1211 · www.caladazul.com
Located in Gracia, this new shop has a huge range of products to help you cut down, be healthier or even stop smoking! With their products there is no tar, no arsenic, no carbon monoxide nor any of the other toxic substances found in tobacco. You can use it wherever you want, whenever you want, with the same satisfying feeling that tobacco gives you. Quote Metropolitan for a free trial and ask about special reader discounts and offers.
FURTIVO SKATEBOARDING www.furtivoskateboarding.com
Furtivo Skateboarding is an online skateboarding shop with selected products of premium brands, offering hi-end skateboarding products. Pro-Models represent 80 percent of their stock. You can find: Plan B, Flip, Blind, Cliché, Darkstar, Enjoi, Element, BLVD, Toy Machine, Foundation and many more. They deliver world wide in 24 to 48 hours. Register now to take advantage of their offers and promotions.
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Carrer de la Ciutat 14 · T. 93 601 1830 · www.ojala.es Mon-Sat 10am-8,30pm
Plaça Virreina 7 · T. 93 218 6907 · info@bateaulune.com www.bateaulune.com · www.facebook.com/bateaulune
Bateau Lune is a shop for kids where you can find a large variety of traditional toys including; wooden bicycles, trains, micro scooters, kites and outdoor games and many more rare and original toys. Come visit them today and get ideas for special occasions such as birthday presents and Christmas gifts. Check out their free activities for children twice a month on the Virreina square in Gràcia!
MICROGESTIO
València 87/89 · T. 93 454 1001 · info@microgestio.es www.microgestio.com
Need help with your Mac? Want to buy an iPad? Microgestió supplies everything a Mac user needs, including service and repairs, classes on how to use different programs, useful tutorials, and the latest new products on the market. You can count on Microgestió for all of your Mac needs... and a friendly, professional service!
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48 DIRECTORY
JOBS To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our free classifieds www.classifieds.barcelona-metropolitan.com
For the latest jobs for English speakers in Barcelona, follow us on Twitter @WorkInBarcelona
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DIRECTORY 49
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50 BACK PAGE
Gunpowder season and pop
T
gest that only adolescent boys are partial to a cheeky banger, when in reality it’s simply a precocious lack of control compared to the main event. Come the night itself, the most unsuspecting types will reveal themselves as would-be Guy Fawkeses. Unassuming civil servants and the most reliable of sober secretaries will magically materialise on random roof terraces clutching a string of bangers and a handful of Catherine wheels. Seeing them gripped by the fervour of fire-making is the closest you’re likely to come to witnessing lycanthropic transformation outside the pages of The Werewolf Returns. Only just short of actually burning banknotes, setting off fireworks is almost literally like watching money go up in smoke. While kids might lack cash for firecrackers these days (saving grateful neighbours several days of aural assault), adults will somehow scrape together enough for even just a brief display of pyrotechnics. Those rockets scouring the night sky aren’t the work of school kids. They’re
more likely to come from frustrated executives letting off steam—except steam doesn’t power rockets, unless it’s Stephenson’s, so they’re letting off gunpowder instead. For anyone who doesn’t want to watch their savings streak across the sky in a short-lived burst of glory, Sant Joan is an excellent night for crime: the emergency services will be otherwise occupied, the streets will be full of people acting suspiciously and, most importantly, there will be plenty of noise in case you’re drilling into a bank vault. The following day is a different matter. If an entire city can appear to have a hangover, this is the moment, and no amount of paracetamol or paella will shift it. The pall of gunpowder hangs in the air like a pestilence, and the sky resembles a 19th-century painting of the aftermath of a naval battle—which in many ways it is, what with the gunpowder, the grog and the gurning assailants. Just remember to keep your pets indoors. And your washing, if you don’t want it peppered with burns.
ANTHONY BAIN
POLLY CASSON
Michaela xydi
Originally from London, Anthony has spent the last 10 years exploring Barcelona and sharing his experiences, writing for publications such as The Expeditioner travel magazine. Writing for Metropolitan has given him the opportunity to find out more about Barcelona and interact with local historians. “Scratch the surface of this city and you’ve got a whole wealth of living history just waiting to be discovered.” Recently, Anthony has discovered running as a new avenue to uncover Barcelona history, culture and everyday life.
Raised in the Isle of Man, Polly went on to study fine art printmaking at The Royal College of Art, London. Discovering a passion for Bollywood dance, she began training as a performer and dance teacher. After time travelling in South America, she came to Barcelona in 2009 to work both in a marketing company for creative professionals and to teach Bollywood in the city. Barcelona equals happiness for Polly and she says that “It is impossible to be angry at Barcelona. It is a city that allows you to creatively express yourself and find your individual niche.”
After finishing high school in Athens, Michaela moved to Manchester to study business. It wasn’t until she moved to Barcelona to finish her Masters that she got in touch with her creative side and began exploring her passion for photography. For the past five years she’s been capturing people and moments here, using her photos to explain the city in a way that wouldn’t be possible through words. She is influenced by Surrealist art and the contrast between dreams and reality; she loves to work with an element of spontaneity yet always sticks to her conceptual idea.
--Roger de Flower
By Ben Rowdon
scoop
he impertinent ejaculations of exploding bangers and the dry scent of spent gunpowder can only mean one thing: Catalunya’s annual night of authorised mayhem and pyromania is at hand, unleashing its night-long symphony of smells and sounds foreign to the rest of the year. If donkeys’ heads and misapplied love potions are a Midsummer Night’s Dream, the infernal cacophony of firecrackers are a Midsummer’s Nightmare. The night before Sant Joan (la revetlla de Sant Joan) is almost the shortest—and certainly the most intense—of the year. It’s a shame that in English, the Eve of Saint John doesn’t have the same sulphurous ring about it. It just sounds too polite—more afternoon tea with cucumber sandwiches and sherry than a night when cava and cake are merely a preamble to the full bacchanalia. What is intriguing about Sant Joan is its surprise unveiling of latent pyromaniacs. It’s not just the usual suspects—testosterone-filled young men and giggling school kids. The days and weeks preceding the big night might sug-
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