Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 202

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November 2013 Nยบ 202 Free

F e st i v e food Meeting new people Learning C ata l a n

STEEL AS ART Life after the Civil War HEAD TO THE MOUNTAINS PLUS

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Comedy

Film

workshops

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NOVEMBER Contents Features 18 Panellets 24 Meeting new people 30 Learning Catalan

Regulars

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06 On the Cover 07 Around Town 08 Fact-checker: Winter Olympics 11 Recipe: Banana maple loaf 12 Making Plans 17 Culture: Post-war photos 23 Design: Welder Frank Plant 29 Interview: Duncan Campbell 32 Escape the City 34 Gastronomy 50 Back Page

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Directories 37 Food & Drink 40 Business

From the Senior Editor:

46 Shopping

It doesn’t matter how long you’ve been in Barcelona, the cul-

47 Jobs

ture and traditions are so rich here that there is always something new to learn about subjects you thought you had well covered. And so it was for me, when I discovered that pan-

ellets, the expensive but delicious marzipan-like cakes eaten here on November 1st, probably originated in Constantinople centuries ago—find out more in our feature on page 18. Similarly, whether you’ve been here five months or five years (or possibly even five decades), there are two issues that are likely to resonate with you: how to meet new people and the learning of Catalan, both covered in our other two features. We also give you ideas for your spare time, ranging from an exhibition of world-class photojournalism to a weekend break in the Pyrenees and a place to watch classic films while enjoying cocktails. There is information about some of the workshops running now in the city, reviews of restaurants old and new,

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and a better-late-than-never apology from Roger de Flower as he heads off, with our grateful thanks, to back pages greener. Hannah Pennell

Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Founder Esther Jones Managing Director Andrea Moreno Senior Editor Hannah Pennell Art Director Aisling Callinan Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell, Adriana Soto and Daniel Whitehead Editorial Assistants Eleanor Bodman and Heather Buchanan Design Assistant Marina Dimova Sales Assistant Sena Çakiroĝlu Contributors Lynn Baiori, Petra Barnby, Jonathan Bennett, Roger de Flower, Anjalina Chugani, Jay Collins, Miquel Hudin, Chris Peters, Tori Sparks, Tara Stevens and Nicola Thornton Cover image Jacqui Barrowcliffe Photographers Pablo Pariente de Torre and Lee Woolcock Illustrators Juan Capitoni and Ben Rowdon Editorial Office: Ciutat 7 2º 2ª-4ª, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486, Fax. 93 451 6537; editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com. General enquiries: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Printer: Litografia Rosés. Depósito Legal: B35159-96 The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

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Thank god it’s Friday, the inbox is empty, the desk is clear (as far as that’s possible) and I definitely need a drink to finish off this week.

19:30 - I join my friend at the Zinc Bar in the Hotel Villa Emilia, one of the hot spots in the Example, which she found out about through a networking event organised there last summer. As I enter I am impressed by the stylish décor, which mixes modernism with a bistrot spirit. In the back, there is a bodega with a huge variety of regional wines, next to which there is a display with fresh fruit and vegetables as well as cheeses and cold cuts… you almost feel as though you could be in a market place. Karim sat us near the fireplace and offered us a wine from his friend Ivo, which is served with a little tapa. And while we settled down, a jazz combo began to play (the evening starts off well)

20:00 - Completely relaxed while listening to a cover version of a Sinatra song, we start getting serious, on the menu is a range of seasonal cooking. Following the waiter’s advice we order a freshly made potato tortilla, calamari with ratatouille and a small plate of beef onglet with baked potatoes, little onions and spinach…(any space left for dessert? …yes, so let’s go for apple pie and tiramisú). This is authentic bistrot cuisine, where the local products are treated with care and “sans chichi”, according to Karim. After dinner, we switch into cocktail mood with a mojito and gin & tonic prepared by Amauri on the rooftop terrace… how could you possibly end the evening better?

23:30 - We need to share this experience with our friends, so, message sent and reservation made for brunch here next Sunday… I’m looking forward to coming back.

zinc bar – Hotel Villa Emilia Calle Calabria 115-117, 08015, Barcelona. Reservations 93 252 5285

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06 THIS MONTH

ON THE COVER Photographer Jacqui Barrowcliffe

www.backspac.es/littleboxoflightandstories

I was given my first camera around the age of seven and haven’t stopped taking photos since... Originally from London, I moved out to Barcelona shortly after completing my degree in Fine Art. After a few years combining English teaching and translation work with occasional photographic jobs, I started working full time and applied my creativity in other fields, putting photography work on a backburner for a while. Lately, however, through mobile photography and, in particular, my fairly recent discovery of the photo stories app Backspaces (see left), I have found a new creative outlet and started developing a body of work using photos and text to tell stories and create visual poems.

Barcelona is: a city of contrasts that sit side by side, and it is this mix that I love about the city. I never miss... heading down to the centre on the day of Sant Jordi; it’s such a lovely tradition and there’s always such a great buzz in the air. I tend to avoid... taking the metro unless necessary, as I prefer to travel overground so I can see the city as I move from one place to another. A view: See the front cover! I pass this spectacular view of the city every day and love stopping to observe how it changes according to the weather, time of day and season. A building: Choosing just one building is difficult in Barcelona. I love the combination of different architectural styles throughout the city, but the MACBA building still manages to take my breath away whenever I go; I especially love the stark contrast with its surroundings. An inspiration: I love walking around the city and observing the street life, taking a different route and discovering somewhere new. A place to go with friends: La Caseta del Migdia hidden away in Montjuïc is just perfect for a relaxing summer evening, with great views and music. On my to-do list: I’d love to see a play at the Teatre Grec, but have yet to get round to it. About the cover I’ve been living in Barcelona for a long time, yet strangely I have very few photos of the city as outsiders would know it. Instead I have preferred to look at the city from a different angle, the Barcelona I would never have known if I hadn’t made it my home. The cover shot and the three images on this page make up a piece that focuses on everyday surroundings and observations, in an attempt to explore what it is that leads us to ‘call somewhere home’.

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Courtesy Sant Jordi Golf Society

AROUND TOWN

SPORTING CHANCE Golf Montanyà, Osona. November 28th

Not so much ‘around town’, more ‘way out of town’ but with views like the above, can you blame us for wanting to share news of this month’s Saint Andrew’s Open golf competition? Taking place on the Golf Montanyà course in the beautiful setting of the Montseny natural park, the 18th annual contest is open to all and costs €68 to enter, which includes the tournament itself, lunch with wine, prizes (including a hand-made hickory shafted Saint Andrews special-edition putter, donated by Scottish Development International) and a tombola with guaranteed gifts for everybody. As if that wasn’t enough, we’ve also been told that a post-prandial whisky tasting could well be on the cards. Register by November 24th to take part. www.santjordigolf.com; tel. 691 805 744

TASTY CINEMA, ARTY FOOD Aribau Club cinema. November 21st to 24th

Food and film are natural companions. Kitchens, dinnertables and restaurants provide key settings for myriad movies whether the theme is gangsters, desperate families or period pieces. ‘Film and Cook’ is a festival that basks in that relationship, screening films where food is a (if not the) protagonist and documentaries featuring the star chefs of our times. A new inclusion for this edition is a ‘cocktail and classic’ session each night, where you can enjoy films such as Casablanca or Chaplin’s The Gold Rush with a delicious drink in hand. www.filmandcook.com

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08 THIS MONTH

(ALMOST) ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT: The winter Olympics BARCELONA

This month sees the deadline for cities interested in hosting the 2022 Winter Olympics to submit their application. Until just a few weeks ago, Barcelona was amongst those planning to throw their hats into the ring, in a joint submission with a number of ski resorts and towns in the Pyrenees. Having hosted the Summer Olympics in 1992, Barcelona had hoped to earn the prestigious honour of being the first city to host both Winter and Summer Olympics. However, as the deadline grew closer, mayor Xavier Trias decided to postpone Barcelona’s application and look instead to the 2026 games; a lack of political support from other parties on the city council was cited as one of the reasons for his decision along with the defeat of the Madrid 2020 campaign, which Trias said led “everyone” to advise him to delay the application. The 1992 Games transformed Barcelona from an industrial, uncared-for city (with no beach and very little tourism) into the place we know today; new roads, a new sewage system and new green spaces and beaches were all created for that landmark event. The Games also changed the way people think of Barcelona—it is now the world’s 12th most popular city destination— and helped Spain become a sporting juggernaut with top performers in fields such as football, basketball, cycling and tennis. Any bid to host the Winter Olympics would be bolstered with the argument that the city already has the necessary infrastructure in place as well as its proximity to the Pyrenees. However, staging the Olympics would also entail serious cost implications; reports prior to the recent postponement claimed that the would-be organisers were seeking €1.4 billion of tax money to produce the games. The host of the Winter 2022 Olympics will be announced in July 2015 in Kuala Lumpar, following the creation of a shortlist of candidates next summer. A decision on the 2026 games will be taken in 2019.

The winter Olympics were first held in the French Alpine resort of Chamonix in 1924. Spectators had a chance to see sports such as Alpine and cross-country skiing, figure skating, ice hockey, Nordic combined, ski jumping and speed skating. Since then the variety of sports has broadened with disciplines such as bobsleigh, luge and snowboarding becoming regular events in the Winter Games. Demonstration sports that have featured over the years include speed skiing, bandy (a mixture between ice hockey and football) and skijoring (when a person on skis is pulled by a dog or horse). During their almost 90 years, the Winter Olympics have witnessed drug controversy, boycotts, political unrest and a world war. The 1940 Games, awarded to Garmisch-Partenkirchen in Germany, were cancelled following the country’s invasion of Poland in 1939. Norway sits at the top of the leader board, boasting 263 medals. It is also the country that has produced the most successful Winter Olympian to date. Retired in 2001, cross country skier Bjørn Dæhlie won 12 medals for his country (eight gold and four silver) during his career, the most any athlete has taken home from the Winter Games. Scottish athlete Alain Baxter was the first British Olympian to win a medal for Alpine skiing, winning a bronze at the 2002 Salt

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Lake City Games. On returning to his hometown in Aviemore, however, he learnt that he had failed a drug test; he was later disqualified and stripped of his medal. Baxter soon discovered that the trace of drug that caused his failed test was an inactive isomer originating in a Vicks Inhaler purchased in the US (where the medication contains different ingredients from the UK). After a long struggle to regain his title, he lost his appeal and remains unrecognised for his accomplishment. The tale of the famous Jamaican bobsled team remains one of the most popular in Olympic history. With a tropical climate and white, sandy beaches, Jamaica was an unlikely candidate to compete in the Winter Olympics. However, the country pulled together a bobsled team for the 1988 Games in Calgary, Canada where they gained support from both other participants and spectators because of their determination despite their lack of expertise, experience and equipment. Their story was celebrated in the 1993 film Cool Runnings. The next edition of the Winter Olympics will be staged in the Russian town of Sochi in February 2014. The lead-up to the event has been overshadowed by controversy regarding Russia’s antigay laws, outrage at the €51 billion cost of staging the Games and problems with floods in the city.

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THIS MONTH 09

METROPOLITan PEOPLe Q. What is the best way to meet new people in Barcelona?

Name: Michelle Frederick Occupation: Art Gallery Assistant From: US Answer: Getting involved in extra-curricular activities that are on offer, for instance, theatre groups and artist meetups.

Name: Florian Casajuana Occupation: Works in tourism From: UK Answer: Don’t carry a lighter—that way you can start a conversation if someone asks for a lighter and you say you don’t have one.

Name:Maria Montero Occupation: Event Organiser From: Spain Answer: The city is very alive at night, so meet people in clubs, bars and restaurants.

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10 THIS MONTH

WORKSHOPS This range of handy and creative workshops has something for all ages and you can sign up for them now.

TALLERS DE BRICOLATGE:

ESCOLA DE CUINA DE LA BOQUERIA: Third Floor, Offices of the Mercat de la Boqueria, La Rambla 91. Tel. 93 250 7665. www.escolacuinaboqueria.com If you’re keen for your children to develop a greater interest in food than simply sitting down to eat what is served up to them each day, this cooking school at La Boqueria is the place to try. With an amazing range of hands-on classes available for young people aged between five and 25, they are bound to discover their inner Adrià. Classes naturally include a trip to the famous market to get familiar with seasonal, local produce, as well as discussions about different foods and their uses. In December, they run special Christmas-themed classes for younger chefs, and the new Amateurs group includes the chance to practise different languages while cooking. Costing €25 for one class or €60 for three, this is a great way to get the kids away from the TV or computer to learn some really useful life skills.

Servei Estació, Aragó 270-272, www.serveiestacio.com Tel. 93 393 2410. tallersbricolatge@serveiestacio.com As if you needed another reason to love the mega-DIY store located in the heart of Barcelona—which is full of every gizmo you could ever need to do up your flat, host a children’s party and organise your sock drawer—how about having them teach you the proper way to paint the spare bedroom as you’ve planning to for the past four years? Or the safe method to put together an electrical circuit? Running from the end of this month and into the start of December (as well as at other times during the year), for the bargain price of €38 you can take part in one of their workshops, which cover: electricity, domestic repairs, painting and restoration, and DIY and assembly. Each one consists of four weekly sessions of 90 minutes and they are aimed at beginners, so all you really need is enthusiasm and a good level of one of the local languages—Catalan vocab will include words such as eines (tools), desmboçar (unblock) and esquerdes (cracks). Just think of it as a two-for-the-price-of-one language class and home improvement workshop.

JUMPING CLAY: Gràcia: Ona, Torrent de l’Olla 100; La Caixa d’Eines, Plaça de la Revolució; Sala CAT, Travessia de Sant Antoni 6-8. Les Corts: Pedralbes Centre For busy hands, young and old, these courses give you the chance to mould your own toys, clay figures and home decorations. Jumping Clay is a particular type of material whose characteristics include not leaving your hands dirty and being non-toxic, lightweight and available in bright colours that are easy to mix. Perhaps most practically, it will self-dry in the air within 24 hours, so there are no kilns involved in creating your little masterpieces. The new classes are being offered in two parts of town: at various spots in Gràcia and, from December, in the Pedralbes Centre in Les Corts. The kids’ classes, which cost €7 and run on Fridays and Saturdays, are aimed at four to 12 year-olds and will be given in Catalan and English. Details are still to be finalised regarding the courses for adults, but they should be running in time for you to make some original Christmas presents. For more information, email: bcn-gracialescorts@jumpingclay.es CORRECTION: In last month’s article ‘Places for Pets’, we inadvertently got the name of the Urban Pets shop owner wrong; she is called Mireia. And we omitted to include the shop’s website, which is: www.urbanpetsbcn.com. We apologise for the errors.

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BARCELONA COOKING by Anjalina Chugani Banana maple loaf Welcome the colder months with this delicious and flavourful cake Ingredients 3 large ripe-to-over-ripe bananas 1 large egg 1/3 cup olive oil 1/3 cup light brown sugar 1/3 cup maple syrup 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon table salt 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1 1/2 cups white wholewheat flour Handful of dark chocolate chips (optional)

Preheat your oven to 180 degrees. Butter and line a 9Ă—5-inch loaf pan. In the bottom of a large bowl, mash the bananas with a potato masher or the back of a wooden spoon until smooth but a few tiny lumps remain. With a hand whisk, whisk in the egg, then the oil, brown sugar, syrup and vanilla extract. Sprinkle the baking soda, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg over the mixture and stir until combined. Stir in the flour until just combined. Stir in the chocolate chips, if using. Pour mixture into the prepared loaf pan and bake until a toothpick comes out clean, about 40 to 50 minutes. Cool loaf in pan on rack.

Anjalina Chugani was born in London but moved to Bangalore in India when she was 15; since 2000, she has been living in Barcelona where she works as an English teacher. A self-taught cook, she organises Social Suppers in the meeatings23 space, and has a blog for recipes and food photography, www.rainbowspoon.com. Get in touch with her at: rainbowspoonfood@gmail.com

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12 culture

MAKING PLANS

A few suggestions about things to do tonight, this weekend, later on...

Two film festivals

L’Alternativa: Various venues. November 18th to 24th. http://alternativa.cccb.org; Mostra de Cinema Àrab I MEDITERRANI DE CATALUNYA: Filmoteca de Catalunya, Plaça Salvador Seguí 1–9. November 6th to 10th. www. mostracinearab.com Once a year Barcelona has the chance to see alternative contemporary films thanks to the aptly named festival, L’Alternativa. This year celebrating 20 years, the event hosts movies from around the world, competitions, premieres and projects from film schools across Barcelona, as well as workshops, discussions and debates. L’Alternativa Official acts as a platform for new and unknown film-makers to be acknowledged as potentially respectable artists. The two competition sections—feature films and shorts—aim to showcase international directors with some of the most innovative styles and original subjects. L’Alternativa Paral·lel includes recent and past independent films from across the globe, offering a glimpse into some highly creative minds. As part of its 20th anniversary, the history of L’Alternativa will be depicted through 22 features that have played a key role in its evolution. A few weeks before L’Alternativa kicks off, the Mostra de Cinema Àrab i Mediterrani de Catalunya returns, showcasing eight productions that set out to change the assumptions some of us have about Arab countries and their culture. The four-day festival offers both fiction and documentary works that would otherwise never reach our Western screens. This year, Lebanon is the guest country, inviting the audience to discover and understand more about its recent history.

Section of the poster from this year’s L’Alternativa festival

Petites Guerres—Mostra de Cinema Àrab i Mediterrani de Catalunya

The B.I.G. IF

Fundació Orfeó Gracienc. Astúries 83. November 7th to 9th. €10 (night) to €25 (pass). www.barcelonaimprovfestival.com The Barcelona Improv Group International Festival sees 10 improv teams from around the world descend on Barcelona for three nights of spontaneous fun and laughter. Performers from the US, Canada, Spain, France, England, Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, Estonia, Turkey and Israel will make this the largest English-language improv festival ever attempted. Enjoy the 15 unique comedy events—neverbefore-seen, never-to-be-repeated—as the performers take to the stage for their unscripted shows, along with any brave audience members who want their chance in the spotlight. And if you have a taste for improv, why not take a master class from one of the five pros coming to teach their art? Sign up now on the website.

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culture 13

‘Bullfighter’s Comeback’ by Daniel Ochoa de Olza

World Press Photo

CCCB. November 6th to December 8th. €6. www.worldpressphoto.org Each year, the World Press Photo presses itself into our consciousness, reminding us that for so many people around the world, day-to-day life is anything but ordinary. Seeing the myriad images on display (in this case 143 as well as a new section of multimedia productions) at this travelling show of the best global photojournalism from the previous year is a heart-wrenching, raw and often overwhelming experience. There are no happy endings to be seen here; instead, the world is revealed in all its extremes, highlighting the cruelty we show each other and other creatures, the hardships many endure, real life that has nothing to do with the ridiculousness of celebrity and ‘reality’ tv. But despite this, despite the fact that seeing the exhibition (or even just part of it) can be an emotionally exhausting voyage, we still should make ourselves embark on it, because sometimes we need to be shown the lives of others in order to appreciate our own.

Festival Mil·lenni

Various venues. From November 25th. www.festival-millenni.com Returning to Barcelona for its 15th edition, the Festival Mil·lenni is known for offering a quality range of musical talent. At the time of going to press, the full programme and dates were not available, but in past years, it has continued for around six months, bringing class acts to different city venues. Confirmed so far are inaugural act Mark Lanegan accompanied by Duke Garwood at BARTS, while Italian-British singer Anna Calvi (left) will be in Apolo on December 10th.

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MIRA

Fabra i Coats, CCCB & Razzmatazz. November 14th to 16th. www.mirafestival.com Watching a live concert is a pleasure for the senses; hearing, clearly; touch and smell, when the venue is crowded, hot and sweaty. Sight, however, can be a hit and miss affair. Not all musicians know how to put on a good visual concert—how many of us have come away from a live show feeling that something was missing, having just watched two hours of a singer shuffling around a stage or just perched on a stool? This is not a problem with the MIRA Festival, which bases itself on the concept of combining music and the visual arts. It brings together DJs, VJs and installation artists to create unique sensory experiences. This year, musical artists such as Panda Bear, BeGun (pictured) and Sophie join forces with visual artists including Slurp, Roberto Fazio and Liam Roberts.

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Up on stage Some of the concerts happening this month in Barcelona Miles Kane—Monday 4th at Razzmatazz Suede—Tuesday 5th at Razzmatazz Folly & the Hunter—Wednesday 9th at Razzmatazz 3 The Posies—Sunday 10th at Razzmatazz Dover—Friday 15th at Razzmatazz Brigitte—Friday 15th at Bikini Dead Parties—Saturday 16th at Sala BeGood Arctic Monkeys—Saturday 16th at Pavelló

Olímpic de Badalona Primavera Sound Touring Party (including Lee Ranaldo and the Dust, Standstill and The Free Fall Band)— Saturday 16th at Apolo and BARTS Pokey LaFarge—Monday 18th at Rocksound Carlos Baute—Wednesday 20th at BARTS Passenger—Thursday 21st at Razzmatazz Roosevelt—Thursday 21st at Apolo [2]

Converses a La Pedrera

November 4th and 18th, 7.30pm. €3. www.lapedrera.com If your main impression of Gaudí’s popular Passeig de Gràcia creation ‘The Quarry’ is of queues of tourists waiting to get in while hordes more snap it from every conceivable angle, the series of talks ‘Conversations at La Pedrera’ will give you the chance to discover a new side to this city landmark. This month sees two events take place: on Monday 4th, Austrian musician Alfred Brendel will talk to Jordi Llovet, while on Monday 18th, British historian Timothy Garton Ash (above) will be in conversation with Pere Vilanova. On December 10th, US writer Tom Wolfe is the guest in what is billed as a “space for dialogue” with reflections on contemporary life and views of the future regarding the respective professional area of each invitee.

Correction: In last month’s magazine, the nationality of the photographer Adam Lukacs (3000 Portes) should have been given as Hungarian. We apologise for the error.

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The Courteneers—Friday 22nd at Music Hall The Excitements—Saturday 23rd at City Hall These New Puritans—Sunday 24th at Razzmatazz John Grant—Tuesday 26th at BARTS Daughter (pictured)—Thursday 28th at Apolo The Tallest Man on Earth—Friday 29th at BARTS

Hard Rock Cafe Sessions

November 7th, 10pm. Free entrance. www.hardrock.com This month we present the multinational group Jolly Heads Circus as our sponsored act at Hard Rock’s Thursday night live music event. The foursome, whose members originate from Spain, the US, France and Venezuela, released their debut album The Kaleidoscope Dawn earlier this year, and have been performing together since 2011. See them on the Hard Rock stage as you enjoy the burgers, desserts and cocktails on offer.

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of 6000 + members

20th November

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CULTURE 17

PHOTOGRAPHY Barcelona has embarked on a major project to show life as it was here after the Spanish Civil War. By Tori Sparks.

Exchange of British, US and German prisoners at Barcelona Port, May 17th, 1944. Arxiu Fotogràfic de Barcelona. Photographer: Pérez de Rosas

O

n January 26th, 2014, it will be 75 years since Franco’s troops entered Barcelona near the end of the Spanish Civil War. To commemorate this painful anniversary and educate the public about the events that followed it, the Ajuntament will inaugurate an exhibition in Montjuïc Castle featuring historical documents from the immediate post-Civil War period, many of which have never before been made available to the public. The exhibition, Barcelona en Postguerra: 1939-1945, will run until June 30th, 2014. There have been four smaller exhibits leading up to this more extensive exhibition. Although three of these have already ended (one showed the links between the city and the Nazi and Italian Fascist regimes of the time, another demonstrated how the city’s cultural calendar and public spaces were taken over and changed according to the priorities of the Fascists, and a third explored the everyday life of people in Les Corts during the post-war years, through photos and other graphic archives), the fourth exhibit, ‘The City After the Defeat’, runs until January 27th, 2014. Located at the Arxiu Municipal Contemporani de Barcelona (Bisbe Caçador 4), it documents methods of municipal organisation as the Francoist regime tried to rebuild the infrastructure of an incredibly damaged city. The Ajuntament and the Fundació Carles Pi i Sunyer are the driving forces behind the exhibition, and Mireia Capdevila i Candell is the coordinator of the Historic Archives within the Fundació Carles Pi i Sunyer. She has been in charge of coordinating the technical team and reviewing the documentation for the exhibit, as well as being the direct link between the city council and the designers of the exhibition. She says that the idea of starting with the four smaller exhibits was to pique the interest of the citizens of Barcelona before inaugurating the main show in January. “This is an entire programme of activities with its roots in a larger project, it is not just an exhibition,” she says. There will be the publication of a book by the same name as the Montjuïc exhibition as well as activities for schoolchildren, conferences and lectures. “What we want is to be as objective as possible with regards to the information that we display,” says Montserrat Beltran i Morales, director at the Arxiu Municipal Contemporani. “Obviously we’ve selected the documents that we think are the most important representations of the

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Nationalist troops mark visit to Barcelona by General Franco, February 21st, 1939. Arxiu Municipal Contemporani de Barcelona. Photographer: Unknown

changes during this time, but we’ve tried not to twist the information towards or away from any particular point of view. That way, people will form their own opinions based on factual information. They are the hard proof of the events that shaped our past.” The organisers want Barcelona’s citizens to see the documents with their own eyes, so they can directly judge history for themselves. Joaquim Borrás Gómez is the head archivist for Barcelona’s Municipal Archives, which maintains a collection of historical documents dating from the year 1820 until the present day, and was the source for all the documents that will be included in the exhibition. He says they wanted to put on the main exhibition in Montjuïc Castle because it is a space that has been recovered by the city after having played such a bloody role in this part of its history. “The castle represented repression; people who didn’t agree with the regime were executed there—it was a symbol of fear—and now we have the opportunity to turn the symbol on its head. “We want this exposition to also serve as a reclamation of peace. We want to show what repression and violence really does to a culture, to warn future generations against this kind of violence. It seems like an anecdote when you hear your grandfather talk about having lived through the Civil War, or if you read it in a history book, but these are real events that happened to real people.” He says that they also want tourists visiting Barcelona to learn more about the makeup of Spain and Catalunya. “Even though it is not a pretty part of our history, it is an important part of our history. It’s part of who we are.” The show will be in Catalan, but there will also be printed explanations in Castilian, French and English. The Montjuïc exhibition will be interactive and include recreations of various environments as they were then (eg. a typical schoolroom), in order to give people an idea of the context for the events they’ll be reading about. “There will be some displays that will be difficult to see,” Borrás admits. “We hope it will be an emotional experience that people will learn from. A city without a memory of the past isn’t capable of creating projects for its future, and while we want to commemorate the past with this project, we also want to look ahead towards what the future will be for our children.” www.bcn.cat/arxiu

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18 FEATURE

Autumn

treats We delve into the history of some of Catalunya’s festive foods. By Chris Peters. Photos by Pablo Pariente de Torre.

A

utumn in Barcelona is special. The smell of roasting chestnuts and freshly baked sweet potatoes combines with the sight of falling red and gold leaves from the plane trees. Sure it gets colder, but you can keep your heater stored away until December, as this is Catalunya and not Camden or Cardiff. The stately buildings also take on an eerie aspect in the reflections on the pavements of the Eixample after sudden bursts of rainfall. For me, however, best of all are the panellets. Nothing beats the delight of passing by the window of one of Barcelona’s historic pastisseries (cake-shops) such as La Colmena, Mauri and Forn Mistral and seeing panellets on sale for the first time of the season. You marvel at the care taken to produce such delightful sweets and then try to resist the temptation to dash in and buy a bagful. Just where did these ‘tiny breads’ come from? In contrast to the Pa de Sant Jordi, invented in a Barcelona bakery just 25 years ago, panellets are part of an ancient tradition, according to Josep Fornés, director of the Ethnological Museum of Barcelona. “Panellets may have originated in the court of Constantinople,” he explains. “They would have originally been made from a marzipan mass of pistachio and honey, and were only consumed by the elite of society. It is probable that they were brought to other regions of the Mediterranean by the Arabs.” Fornés highlights the fact that, with time, people started to make the sweets at home as the ingredients were relatively easy to find. As the fame of the sweet spread, those people who lived in places they couldn’t find pistachio would instead use almond, and as sugar became available, it was also included in the mixture. Only much more recently do we see the use of potato and sweet potato in the recipe. In Catalunya, the panellet is associated with La Castanyada, which

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FEATURE 19

Clockwise from left: panellets made with pine nuts are as expensive as they are delicious; La Colmena, located in the Gothic area of Barcelona; traditional flavours sideby-side with newcomers such as orange and quince; the windows of many local cake-shops are filled with panellets and moscatell at this time of year

takes place on October 31st, the eve of All Saints Day; on that day, chestnuts, sweet potatoes and panellets accompanied by moscatell (sweet wine) are all eaten at family get-togethers. According to Fornés, this association derives from the local tradition of funerary food. “As in ancient Rome, in Catalunya there was a strong tradition of consuming special food at burials,” he says. Fornés also emphasises the point that panellets were originally very much an urban food and it took time for their popularity to spread outside the cities. In addition, the relatively expensive panellets would have been consumed only in small quantities by the working class of the city, who would have been more used to celebrate La Castanyada with chestnuts and sweet potatoes. In recent times however, the fame of the panellet has spread and Fornés believes that this is due mainly to the pastisseria industry, which has done an excellent job in marketing the product. He also underlines the role played by Catalan schools in the process. “Since the Eighties, it has been typical to learn how to make panellets at school. Students have then passed on their skills to their parents. This has contributed greatly to the current success of the sweet.” What of the invasion of Halloween? Dressing up as ghosts and trick or treating? Will this help to erode the popularity of the traditional castanyada? Fornés doesn’t think so. “La Castanyada is now celebrated with new vigour by young people across society and this will help to keep the celebration alive. It is currently a much more communal festivity whereas before it was more intimate and kept strictly within the family.” To investigate further, I visited one of Barcelona’s most celebrated pastisseries, La Colmena on Plaça de l’Angel. Its owner, Josep Maria Roig, has seen a significant change in how panellets are produced and sold over the years: “In the past we used to produce panellets only for

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the day of La Castanyada and we used to make them in huge amounts. They were sold by the kilo and customers would form large queues round the store to buy them. Nowadays, we spread their production throughout the year and produce far less than before. They are now often sold by the unit.” This change is partly due to the increased price of the product. Roig emphasises that quality ingredients, such as those used at La Colmena are significantly more expensive than those used by supermarkets and the bakery chains that have been rapidly springing up across the city. Prices for pine nuts and fine almonds have seen sharp rises in recent years according to Roig, and other sellers have simply replaced these ingredients with potato and the addition of extra sugar. “Supermarkets are also able to add preservatives to the product to lengthen their shelflife whereas our panellets must be sold on the day they are produced in the bakery,” he adds. La Colmena also produces other festive foods such as la coca de Sant Joan, els bunyols de Quaresma, la Mona and el tortell de Reis, as well as less famous festive pastries such as el volant de Sant Cristòfol and les tisores de Santa Llúcia (see More Info) but Roig recognises that these latter delicacies are now fading in the public’s memory. “Only the older people remember these traditions now. Young people don’t even know about them.” This reflects a deeper change in Catalan society—Roig believes that many of Barcelona’s residents are these days too busy to indulge in these more obscure pastries. “In the past people would always remember to buy these special foods at the bakery and have them for dessert at home with the family to celebrate specific festive days. Now, many festive days are no longer holidays and workers will tend to eat out [for lunch]. If it is a holiday, many will decide to simply leave the city for the day or for the weekend.” As Josep Fornés reflects, “traditions should evolve with society. Only those that have success will remain. We have to celebrate traditions and not make them sacred, as when traditions stop being useful, they die.” Nevertheless, Catalunya’s pastisseria industry seems secure thanks mainly to the high level of quality and sophistication of its production. Many customers are still prepared to pay high prices for the best coca or panellet as it remains difficult to produce something of equal quality in the home. To produce these foods takes great skill and dedication, as Fornés underlines, and it is hoped that the pastisseria industry will be able to maintain its proud tradition in the modern world. A concern for Josep Maria Roig is whether family-run establishments are able to pass on these skills from father to son as they have done through many generations. “These days when the pastisser retires, there is no one to carry on the business as the younger generations prefer to go to university and continue their studies rather than stay in the firm. Who knows, but with the current crisis, perhaps they will be persuaded to stay after all.” Strolling back home from La Colmena through the narrow streets near Plaça Sant Jaume, I notice a distinct cooling of the temperature. The sun is in my eyes as it follows a low arc across the sky. Autumn is on its way and yet thoughts of panellets, moscatell and the aroma of roasting chestnuts help to lighten my mood.

MORE INFO Les tisores de Santa Llúcia This is a brioche pastry in the shape of a pair of scissors (tisores in Catalan). It is usually filled with marzipan, cream or custard and covered with sugared fruits and icing sugar. It is eaten on December 13th, the feast day of Saint Lucy, who is the patron saint of opticians, tailors and any trades that require good vision. The pastry has the shape of scissors because it is the basic tool of the tailor and also because the Romans took out Santa Llúcia’s eyes with a pair of scissors before cutting off her head, for being a Christian. Inside the cake there is a surprise, usually a small figurine of the saint herself or a seamstress. El volant de Sant Cristòfol Another brioche, this time created in the shape of a steering wheel (volant). It has the same possible fillings and toppings as the Santa Llúcia scissors, but this one is eaten on July 10th, the feast-day of Saint Christopher, who is the patron saint of motorists and travellers. In some towns where St. Christopher is the patron saint, cars and motorists are blessed on that day to be protected in the future. El martell de Sant Eloi This cake takes the form of a hammer (martell), usually with marzipan or cabell d’angel (angel-hair) inside and fruit on top. Eloi was a French silversmith in the sixth century, and later became the patron saint of blacksmiths, silversmiths and other. industries in which the hammer is seen as the main tool. His feast day is celebrated on December 1st. However, since the industrial revolution, all the trades that he protects have diminished and, as such, his saint’s day is rarely marked nowadays. Inside the cake, you’ll find a china figure related to the smithing industries.

“We have to celebrate traditions and not make them sacred, as when traditions stop being useful, they die.”

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CALENDAR OF FESTIVE FOODS IN CATALUNYA January 1st: Tronc or Pastís de Cap d’Any; New Year log or cake January 6th: Tortell de Reis; Kings’ Day ring cake January 17th: Tortell de Sant Antoni; Saint Anthony ring cake January 25th: Tortell de Sant Pau; Saint Paul ring cake ‘Fat Thursday’ (Thursday before Carnival): Coques de llardons; Savoury Catalan flatbread with crackling pieces on top Lent: Bunyols de Quaresma or de l’Empordà (also known as brunyols); small ring donuts with sugar and aniseed March 19th, Sant Josep: Crema catalana and flam; egg puddings Easter Monday: Mones; Elaborate chocolate shapes for children April 27th: Pastís de la Mare de Déu de Montserrat; Montserrat cake June 23rd: Coques de revetlla (also for Sant Pere on June 29th and Sant Jaume on July 25th); Sweet flatbreads made with glacé fruits July 10th: Volants de Sant Cristòfor (see above) October 31st/November 1st: Panellets December 1st: Martell de Sant Eloi (see above) December 13th: Tisores de Santa Llúcia (see above) December 25th: Torrons, neules and troncs de Nadal; Christmas nougat, wafer biscuits and log December 31st: Tronc or Pastís de Cap d’Any; New Year log or cake

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DESIGN 23

METAL WORK

Steel is a tough material to work with but lends itself to beautiful images at the hands of a master welder. By Lynn Baiori.

Us and Them #2 (work in progress)

Frank Plant—Man of steel In the entrance to Frank Plant’s apartment are diminutive sculptures, easily overlooked and overshadowed by striking, larger pieces hanging on the walls deeper inside. One of these smaller models represents a figure of the pope, with a photographed head of Stevie Wonder. “Stevie for pope,” says the artist, “and the world would be a better place.” Idealism is the force behind Plant’s work, although I’m doubtful he would express it that way. The artist is reserved, but with a warm, inviting smile. A poet working primarily with steel to create art that immediately penetrates the viewer with its energy and raw self-exploration, eliminating the line between you and the image, coaxing you out of the role of passive observer and tempting you to respond. I follow him to his studio where a paper pattern hangs on the wall, its steel frame beginning to take shape. The final image will be a chess board consisting of two 350cm x 150cm sets of human figures, a group portrait entitled Us and Them #2. Through it, Plant is continuing his exploration of relationships within societies, the rivalries, identities and strategies we develop as individuals within a group, and as groups within a larger society. He chose chess as a metaphor, saying you can gain insight into a person’s character by observing how they play the game. I ask him to explain the technique he uses to build the largescale figures. For Us and Them #2, after the initial idea, he made a computerised vector image from photographs of friends and acquaintances, and created a pattern to follow as he cuts and shapes the steel, somewhat like a dressmaker uses a pattern to cut cloth. I ask why he chooses to work with such a difficult material. He tells me that he likes it for its permanance. But although steel is tough, you need to be gentle with it; push too hard and you might bend, burn or damage it. “You can also hurt yourself,” he says. The evidence is a bandaged left hand, injured by the blade of a cutting disk. Plant’s work with steel developed while he was living in Amsterdam. He began by making a large coffee cup and saucer for his friends’ café. From there, he moved from two to three dimensional figures, mixed media pieces, interactive sculptures.“You develop a relationship with the

material; the more you work with it, the more intimate the relationship is, and the more that comes from it,” he says. His work has been shown in galleries throughout Europe and is identified by its intricate beauty as well as for the strength of its social observation. He makes use of humour and tragedy, displays our vulnerabilities as well as our capacities for violence, our instinct for survival, our human passivity and aggression. Yet Plant doesn’t hold himself above criticism. In The Artist Takes a Fall, the artist and his work are examined as a vehicle of propaganda, and we are asked to think critically rather than passively accept a message, regardless of the source. We move to Frank’s work table where he demonstrates welding a piece of steel. On hand is a cutting disk, a sanding disk and a TIG welder. He puts on a welder’s mask to protect his eyes from the UV ray emitted by the spark of gas and electricity, and warns me not to look directly at the ray as I take the picture. He demonstrates again; this time I also wear a mask. As the spark ignites, a burst of light shines through the protective glass, like a star exploding. For an instant, the shape of a man is illuminated as he forges a narrative of our complex human experience. www.frankplant.net. Gallery representation: 3 Punts Galeria; www.3punts.com

Meanwhile on the Peninsula

Frank Plant welding

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FEATURE

“Making new friends in Barcelona requires determination, guts and a sense of humour.�

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Getting together Discover some of the ways to meet new people in Barcelona. By Petra Barnby. Illustration by Juan Capitoni.

“F

riendship is the hardest thing in the world to explain. It’s not something you learn in school. But if you’ve not learned the meaning of friendship, you really haven’t learned anything.” Muhammad Ali

We are meeting in Café Zurich on Plaça Catalunya. I found her on the website www.lingobongo.com where I was looking for a local who wanted to practise their English. I couldn’t think of another way of making friends with a local without walking up to one and saying “will you be my friend?” I spend ages getting ready, wondering if she will want to meet me again. Hair up or down? Kiss or handshake? Then I wonder if I will like her. It is all starting to become a bit stressful, a bit like a date. And then I realise, technically I am going on a friend-date. My friendseeking dating profile would read: Thirty-year-old English woman seeking fun-loving Catalan female friend to share experiences of Barcelona with. Good sense of humour. I walk into the café and scan the room for someone wearing a red scarf. There is someone wearing a dark pink scarf, but I am too shy to go over. Instead, I sit down and wait for her to find me. Soon, a friendly face asks if I am me, and I say yes. She sits down, we order coffees and the date begins. Two years later and Mireia is still my only Catalan friend. For every friend-date which went well, there were several others which went less well, either the other person or me never getting back in touch. Let’s be honest, making new friends in Barcelona (or anywhere for that matter) requires determination, guts and a sense of humour. And for those of us living here as foreigners, a good friend is not just important, it’s essential for weathering the highs and lows of life in the city.

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FEATURE

Meet-up groups My mother always said if you want to make friends, join a group— that way you can do something you’re interested in whilst scoping for potential mates you’re guaranteed to have at least one thing in common with. I always resisted this sage advice because I romantically imagined friends should just materialise out of thin air. Experience has taught me mother was right. The good news is, Barcelona is bursting with such groups, and one great place to find them is www.meetup.com which lists an amazing 450 groups meeting in or near Barcelona. Most of them provide their information in English and welcome all nationalities. It is free to sign up to a group and you can see from the group profile if there is a charge to attend. You can also create your own group (fortnightly cake-eating meet up anyone?) but it will cost you €15 a month. If you feel a bit nervous turning up to a group alone, most organisers will introduce you to the other members on the group page beforehand if you ask. Groups cater for all sorts, including: movie buffs, business networkers, dancers, photographers, people over 45, amateur musicians, vegetarians, curry lovers, new-comers, poets and bookworms. Meetup groups range from the conventional get-together to the more unusual. Catalan wine-lover Miguel Figini entices people to his tasting sessions by calling them ‘wine raves’. Apart from enjoying a good party, Figini also created his group to share his passion for local wine with foreigners in the city. “I would like expats who are living with us to discover and enjoy the richness and singularities of Catalan wines, as I have for the last 35 years,” he says. Other groups centre around a niche interest, such as The Clandestine Arts Community, whose organisers encourage arty types to join by asking the following questions: “Do you, in the bottom of your heart, believe yourself an artist or a true Bohemian? Are you tired of the same old parties? Do you want to be surrounded by actors, painters, musicians and other night birds while sharing a glass of wine? Then, you are ready to be a clandestine.” Finally, there are the more straightforward social groups, where you can go simply to meet new people. On its group page, Barcelona Culti Group describes itself as existing “for the sole purpose of casual get-togethers in a friendly environment where everyone feels welcome.” Online forums and groups for families For many families, living a flight away from the grandparents and other relations can be especially challenging and the support of good friends in the same boat can be a life-saver. Brit and mum-of-two Monica Krüger has been living in Barcelona for 17 years. “A parent’s learning curve is a steep one and it’s reassuring and empowering for them to feel welcomed into the intimacy of a small group who meet once a week,” said Krüger. There are several free online forums for Barcelona-based families where you can post queries and suggest get-togethers. More than anything it is nice to know there is a whole community of Englishspeaking families in the city at the tip of your fingers. There are also parent-centred coffee mornings and fitness groups, including the following: - Barcelona Tots Group forum; Google Groups - Super Sagrada MamAmigas forum; Google Groups - Weekly Baby Café at Wellwoman Clinic; www.bcnwellwoman.com - Mamifit, pre and postnatal fitness group for mums; www.mamifit.es - Barcelona Womens Network’s ‘Mom and Tots’ group; www.bcnwomensnetwork.com

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Language exchange Practising your Catalan/Castilian is an obvious way to make friends with a local, so why not arrange a language exchange (intercambio in Castilian and intercanvi in Catalan)? Websites such as Metropolitan (Classifieds section) and www.lingobongo.com have dozens of listings from would-be exchangers. For the less computer literate, the entrance of language school International House (Trafalgar 14) has a wall covered with post-its from locals keen to practise their English, French, German and so on. There are also regular groups where Spaniards and other language speakers get together to natter informally over a drink. English Oasis is one such group, which charges a small fee for its bilingual workshops, walks, dinners, quizzes and social groups. Members choose the language they wish to socialise in—www.englishoasis.org. For something a bit unusual, on meetup.com you’ll find an ingenious group called ‘Barcelona theatre classes and language exchange’, which gets members to role-play real situations in basic Castilian. If you also like reading in Castilian, there is a book club where members practise their language skills while discussing a book. Sport Making friends whilst doing your favourite sport is a safe bet—you will always have something fun to do together. For those into circuit-type workouts, the English organisers of Beachfit meet at Buenas Migas on Barceloneta beach every day. The classes are in English, the first class is free and they also arrange social gatherings. Their information can be found on www. facebook.com/beachfitbcn, while meetup.com also lists the following sporty groups in Barcelona: volleyball, hiking, badminton, table tennis, basketball, cycling, paragliding, paddle (sea), kite-surfing, sea-swimming, sailing, frisbee, martial arts, roller blading, running and yoga in English (my group!). For something completely different If none of the above appeals to you, there are plenty of other options for you in town. Take the Barcelona English Choir, which can be found at www.facebook.com/barcelonaenglishchoir. There’s no audition and you don’t have to be able to read music. English organiser Edd Aldcroft now has around 20 singers in every session. “It’s a great way to relax, socialise with an international crowd, prastice your singing and, most importantly, have fun,” Aldcroft told me. Looking for friendship ‘and more’? Then there is the intriguingly named ‘Intercambio with a Twist’, a group set up in a speed-dating style. Members are seated with a random partner for five minutes before being rotated. The organisers even provide ‘interesting topics’ to keep conversation flowing. To find out more, visit: www.languagezona.com/meetup.html What about drawing naked people, then having pica pica with the other artists? For a fee, Life Drawing Barcelona provides you with paper, chalk, boards, pencils and a model. After the drawing, a table full of food and wine is unveiled. Organiser Benet Ferrer is a graphic designer when he is not hosting his 329-member group. “My aim is to provide a warm, supportive and inspirational environment and no need to worry about artistic talent. Just enjoy the journey,” said Ferrer. Get in touch with him on 679 933 331. With the help of the Internet it is becoming a lot easier to find groups where we can meet like-minded people whilst doing something we love. We may not win ‘em all, but we will have a lot of fun trying.

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INTERVIEW 29

DUNCAN CAMPBELL App designer, British, 34

I’ve been in Barcelona almost four years. Before I came, I worked as a programmer in a very well paid job in the City. Although it served me well, it was hard work with lots of pressure because of the huge amounts of money at stake. In the end it all got a bit too much, so I bailed out and went backpacking in Colombia for two months. After that experience, I decided I wanted to move somewhere Spanish speaking. It was between Buenos Aires and Barcelona, and I chose Barcelona because it was closer to my mum. I’ve done programming for 13 years. I studied geology at university and when I left, I started working at Bournemouth Council doing coastal research. They had a very primitive computer system, so in-between the research I was paid to do, I wrote little programs to analyse data and improve office communications. One day, someone in the office asked me if I’d ever thought about actually working with computers so I thought I should give it a go. I got my first computer when I was eight. It was a Commodore 64. I read the manual in three days and then created a hot air balloon that floated across the screen. I came here with the intention of just chilling out for a couple of months but quickly realised I was probably going to stay. I managed to get a year’s worth of work from my old company, saved some money and then quit that job to become an iPhone developer. For that, I needed four months of study at home; I programmed and programmed and programmed and wrote my first app. That app was a game, something really fun for people and something free that they could share with their friends. I needed a fun antidote to all that financial work! I’ve made three apps myself and eight or nine for clients. Menú del Día is another one of mine. It translates menu items from Spanish or Catalan into English. If you type in something that doesn’t already exist, it tells me and I add it to the dictionary. I sell about 20 of that one a week. My ideas usually come from a need to do something. I am currently

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working on a language app and it’s come about because the existing ones don’t do what I want them to do. The third app I’ve launched is Enscrypted. This is the most popular one and to date we’ve had 130,000 downloads. It’s a word game where you have a famous movie quote and the name of the movie and the letters are switched. There are a million little tricks to work it out and there’s a new quote every day. You play on your own and compare your scores—it’s connected to Facebook and Twitter and a lot of people talk around it, helping each other out with clues. It’s really tough but very good fun. We have about 10,000 people playing every day. I love the way it’s going… While I really admire people like Steve Jobs, I’m more in awe of the few independent developers who have managed to make some really successful apps. Andreas Illiger, for example, single-handedly created an app called Tiny Wings and did all the graphics and all the music himself. He launched it in 2011 and made over $10 million. I don’t respect him for making money, but I do respect him for making a damn good app. I have a really broad range of clients in the US, the UK and Spain. I’ve made a game for a company in Spain, an app that creates documentary videos for kids in Catalan and I’ve also worked for an oil guy in Texas. I’m working 60 percent for clients and 40 percent on my own projects. The aim is to get that 40 percent up to 100 percent. I’m pretty motivated so that is never a problem for me, but before I went freelance, I was pretty scared about being able to manage clients and money and time. I think the only freelancers who will make it work are the ones that can focus on those things and do it right. There is nothing better in life than doing what you love. It changes your perspective on absolutely everything. You have to fight to get to that place, but it is so worth it. Interview by Nicola Thornton. Photo by Lee Woolcock.

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30 FEATURE

Language class If you want to learn Catalan, there are a number of options to help you on your way. Text by Miquel Hudin. Photo by Pablo Pariente de Torre.

A

year ago I set out to learn Catalan for both personal and professional reasons. Being married to a Catalan, I had been speaking Castilian with her family and friends ever since moving to Spain and it generally worked, but as Castilian is a second language for most Catalans, all conversations seemed a bit artificial and with the family dog, impossible. Then, of course, professionally, when visiting and writing about the wines of Catalunya, I’d found that about 98 percent of the winery owners were native Catalan speakers. So putting aside the whole issue of Catalan independence, Castilian being ‘more useful’, and knowing my fluency would never be that of a native speaker, I made the decision to learn Catalan in order to not be a tourist in the place that I call home. I can understand why many choose not to learn Catalan, especially if you are only planning to stay in Catalunya for a short time and even more so if you are a native English speaker. But jumping off the Catalan

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Miquel Hudin (L) with his intercanvi partner, Jordi

language cliff, you will find that your descent is nicely cushioned by local institutions and Catalan people who are extremely grateful and encouraging that you’ve taken an interest in their language. There are several options for studies, but the Consorci per a la Normalització Lingüística (CPNL) lays out the way quite well and is the group I started with. There is the Introductory class for learning the rudiments of the language if you’ve never had any exposure to it. Then you get in to the more advanced Bàsic (B) Level classes and eventually move onwards to complete fluency that qualifies you to work in government jobs (see below for info about the different levels and corresponding certificates on offer). But, before they let you register for any classes, you have to take a placement exam. I floundered badly on both the verbal and written parts of this exam. Of course, that’s the point, in that they want to see how much you do and don’t understand of the language to know what’s the best fit for you. Despite hearing a lot of Catalan (and just hearing the

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FEATURE 31

language casually does not mean you understand it, despite popular belief), I ultimately placed in the middle of the B Level, but the woman giving the test recommended that I started at the first class given that I was missing core language components such as knowing the difference between all the damnable present and immediately past tenses that exist in Latin-based languages. When and where to start the classes wasn’t a problem as they offer a multitude of classes at all times of the day, in multiple areas of Barcelona (as well as other municipalities in Catalunya) with a new cycle starting every week or so. Even moving into the B2 and B3 classes where there is a 50 percent attrition rate from B1 (many people think that attending just B1 gives them ‘certification’ and stop when they find out there are two more to gain the A2 certificate), they still have plenty of classes available for a myriad of schedules. Rarely are the good things in life actually free but these classes cost essentially nothing. I say ‘essentially’ because while the Introductory and B Level classes are free to attend, there is a book to buy for each one that is about €12. For me, that’s incredibly affordable for what is either an eight-week regular or four-week intense course. The Elemental Level (E) courses that follow the B Level have a cost of €35 for each eight-week course (or four-week intensive class), which again seems like a veritable bargain. What can you expect from these classes? This falls in to the age-old adage that you get as much from the courses as you put in. Learning any secondary language as an adult is not easy. It’s been proven that we learn languages best when children. Obviously it’s not impossible to learn them later in life, but you’ll have to put in a lot of work to make it happen and that’s one of the encouraging aspects of the classes in that you’re surrounded by a group of people with a vested interest in learning Catalan, as well as the local Catalans regularly telling you that you speak the language well no matter what level you’re at. The students in these classes are from every continent and make for a very international student body. Given that Spain has been (at

least prior to 2008) a magnet for immigration from Spanish-speaking countries, the dominant group tend to be people from South and Central America. But tossed in to this are others from Asia, Africa and every country in Europe. It’s also important to point out that despite the ardent message from the ‘This is Spain, we speak Spanish here’ group, at least 20 percent of all my classes were comprised of non-Catalan-speaking Spaniards. In every class, I was the only native English speaker, which was unsurprising given the perceived world dominance of my mother tongue. Beyond the classes, though, if you aren’t getting a lot of exposure to Catalan outside the classroom, the CPNL has supplemental programmes because they know that as a new speaker of a language, it’s easy to have a great deal of shame in speaking poorly which makes it hard to engage with others—especially when most people in the classes can easily switch back to Castilian. In addition to various get-togethers, the CPNL also has the ‘Voluntariat per la llengua’ programme wherein native Catalan speakers are paired with students to have a one-on-one conversation for an hour and help them work through the language without feeling the pressure of the teacher asking them a question in front of the rest of the class. Despite having a lot of exposure through family and work, I took advantage of this as well and met up with a cheerful fellow named Jordi from Barceloneta. Over various meetings at the new Mercat del Born and local cafés, we chatted about everyday aspects of life and it helped a great deal to make my conversations more fluid. Ultimately, taking on the goal of learning a language requires a lot of work. But, beyond the personal satisfaction of understanding the lyrics of Gossos’ ‘Corren’, the rewards of being able to speak it will come on many levels as the Catalans will see you as someone who isn’t just passing through on a budget flight but plans to stay here for a while.

“The rewards of being able to speak Catalan will come on many levels.”

More info Consorci per a la Normalització Lingüistica: www.cpnl.cat

Introductory

Basic level certificate

Elementary level certificate

Intermediate level certificate

Advanced level certificate

Superior level certificate

A1

A2

B1

B2

C1

C2

IN

B1 B2 B3

E1

I1

S1 S2 S3

D

30-31 Learning Catalan PDF.indd 35

E2 E3

I2 I3

A breakdown of the levels taught, and their corresponding certificates, at the CPNL (based on the Common European Framework of Reference for Languages)

10/23/13 1:33:03 PM


32 TRAVEL

Take to the mountains The snow may not yet have arrived but the Pyrenees are home to a variety of pretty, historic towns that are ideal for a short break out of Barcelona. By Jay Collins.

W

hy wait for snow to enjoy the Pyrenees? Right now it’s all about crisp, blue skies, leaves crunching underfoot and a hot chocolate should things get nippy. Autumn is a wonderful time to beat a retreat to the hills and these friendly towns all make a great weekend destination. Steeped in culture and history and nestling in the mountains, you can just enjoy the towns themselves or take off for some nearby hiking. Ripoll Located on the river Ter in the province of Girona, Ripoll was a focal point of culture and industry between the ninth and 19th centuries. It’s considered to be the spiritual home of Guifré el Pilós (Wilfred the Hairy), Count of Barcelona and founder of the nation in the ninth century when he conquered Ripoll, freeing it from Moorish domination. He founded the town’s Romanesque-style Benedictine monastery, Santa Maria de Ripoll. Some of the original structure is still apparent, in particular the Romanesque portico, but most of the monastery and cloisters were rebuilt in the 19th century. In the Middle Ages, due to the abundance of iron ore and coal in the region plus the water supply from the river Ter, Ripoll developed a booming metal industry that was a powerhouse until the early 19th century when French invasions destroyed the foundaries. All that’s left now of the metal industry is the lovely Ruta del Ferro, a gentle 12-kilometre cycling route that forms part of the Vias Verdes, former train tracks around Catalunya that have been converted into traffic-free routes for cyclists and and walkers (www.viasverdes.com). It begins just outside Ripoll. Museu Etnogràfic de Ripoll: www.museuderipoll.org This museum re-opened two years ago after 10 years of closure and last year won the national Catalan culture award. It combines history and anthropology, showing how people in the area used to live. Open Tuesday to Saturday, 10am to 1.30pm and 4 to 6pm; Sunday, 10am to 2pm.

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The lake in Puigcerdà. Photo by Andrea Moreno.

Saturday morning market: this weekly market sells mostly fruit and vegetables but also other food products and some clothes. Getting there: you can get to Ripoll by train directly from Barcelona Sants station. On weekdays, there are up to two trains per hour and less at weekends. The journey takes approximately two hours. PuigcerdÀ The capital of the Cerdanya comarca (county) lies just two kilometres from the border with France, near the river Segre. It stands on a hill and overlooks the surrounding valley, giving it spectacular views across to the craggy peaks of the Pyrenees. The town was founded in 1178 by King Alfonso I of Aragón, then Count of Barcelona. Unfortunately, very little of its early history remains as it was bombed heavily during the Civil War, as punishment for its staunch Republican support. On the main square you’ll see the Torre de Campanar, a 12th-century Romanesque belltower, all that remains of the town church. Behind the square is the Old Hospital, one of the town’s

10/23/13 12:20:29 PM


TRAVEL 33

oldest buildings, dating back to the early 12th century, although it has lost most of its original Romanesque and Gothic features. However, Puigcerdà is blessed with much natural beauty and is surrounded by hills and farmlands. At the northern end of the town is the quiet oasis of the man-made lake and Schierbeck park, both built by a Danish businessman, German Schierbeck, who fell in love with the area and settled in Puigcerdà. He was very involved in town planning and donated some of his own land to the town. If you come by car and have a little time on your hands take a trip to Bellver de Cerdanya, a lovely little town between Puigcerdá and Alp which was founded in the 13th century as a fortified town. The Picot Negre restaurant on Cami Rai, 1 makes for an enjoyable lunch stop with good unpretentious, Catalan food and friendly service. Sunday market: with clothes, fruit, vegetables and local products. Getting there: direct trains leave from Barcelona Sants and take just under three hours. Camprodon Camprodon is a busy little town of just over 2,000 inhabitants in the comarca of Ripollés. It was founded in 1118 with the construction of the Sant Pere monastery near the centre of today’s town. The impressive monastic church still stands—a simple Romanesque building in the form of a cross and with an elegant belltower. The inside reflects the exterior austerity with thick columns and bare walls. A river winds gently through the centre of town providing plenty of idyllic spots to watch the ducks and enjoy this town’s easy-going nature. At its widest point, the river is crossed by El Pont Nou, an arched bridge that has been declared a monument of national interest. Despite its name (The New Bridge), it was actually built at the end of the 12th century, although it has undergone several restorations since then. Many people will be unwittingly familiar with this bridge as it features on the yellow biscuit tins and boxes of Galletas Birba, a Camprodon-made biscuit that is often stocked in supermarkets. In the 19th century, Camprodon became a popular summer destination for wealthy city families who built their Modernista second

homes on two of the town’s loveliest roads, the leafy cul-de-sac Passeig de Maristany and the Passeig de la Font Nou, which is a pedestrianised road that overlooks the river. The town’s most famous son is composer and pianist Isaac Albéniz (1860—1909) and there is a foundation here in his name with a small museum that contains information about him, original manuscripts and personal belongings. www.albeniz.cat If you’re making a weekend of it, the three-star Camprodon Hotel is located right in the centre of the town in Plaça Doctor Robert. The Modernista décor and old-fashioned feel of the place will take you back to when Camprodon was buzzing with rich Barceloneses. Getting there: Camprodon is best reached by car, as there is no train station. However, there is a limited bus service from Barcelona (www.teisa-bus.com). Sort Nestling in the hills of Pallars Sobirà on the Noguera Pallars river is Sort, a town with only 2,100 inhabitants. The word sort is Catalan for ‘luck’ and this little town has become famous for being a truly lucky place to buy your lottery ticket. Thousands of people make an annual journey to Sort to buy their El Gordo (Christmas lottery) ticket from the town’s lottery shop La Bruixa d’Or (The Golden Witch), which claims to have a disproportionately high number of winners. Nowadays, you don’t actually have to make the journey there as you can also buy tickets online on the shop’s website. but if you are in the area, it still merits a stop-off. The town’s old centre, a web of narrow streets and old houses, is built around the remains of the eighth-century Castle of Sort, which was the dwelling of the Counts of Pallars. You can still see a lot of the perimetre walls, Romanic towers and a Gothic façade. Most of the best-preserved remains of the castle date from the 11th and 12th centuries. Sort is also well known for the rafting activities that take place in springtime on the Pallars Sobirà river. Getting there: Sort is best reached by car although there is a limited bus service from Barcelona (www.alsa.es).

Moreno.

El Pont Nou in Camprodon

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10/23/13 12:20:30 PM


34 RESTAURANT REVIEW

THE TATAMI ROOM This Japanese restaurant has raised its game recently, with some truly tempting dishes now on offer. By Tara Stevens. Photos by Pablo Pariente de Torre. ✪NOT WORTH THE TRIP

O

✪✪COULD IMPROVE

✪✪✪GOOD

ne good thing about the economic crisis here in Spain is the will of restaurateurs to up their game. I’m not just talking posh eating here, I’m talking a general overhaul in standards. Top chefs opening wallet-friendly places, likewise the up-and-comers and established neighbourhood joints giving you more bang for your buck. Across the board people seem to care about the customer, and the experience, more. In many ways, you could say, there’s never been a better time to eat out. The Tatami Room in Poble Sec has muddled along quite nicely since opening, but without any clear direction. The home-made noodles were great, but you never knew when they’d have them, the craft beers a slightly off-centre addition to the Japanese concept. But they’ve brought in a hot new chef, Nori Tamada, brimming with ideas fresh from Japan, and new manager Daniel De Sousa, previously in the butlering world, now a service-minded consultant tasked with paring back all the ideas and corralling them into a much clearer, cleaner experience. This is no fancy pants eatery, mind you. It’s a homey atmosphere where you take off your shoes and snuggle your legs under the sunken tatami tables within the red-brick basement dining-room, but the food is more coherent on the whole, and occasionally exceptional. Our ‘Shanti’ salad with oranges and flecks of sesame could have been livelier—on inspection of the menu I noted the promised fennel and macadamia nuts were missing, and the wasabi was but a whisper of its eye-watering self—but there were some wonderful surprises in store. I’m still thinking about the nutty, delightfully chewy-in-the-middle-

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✪✪✪✪VERY GOOD

✪✪✪✪✪NOT TO BE MISSED

crunchy-on-the-outside rice cubes filled with spiced tuna and chives a week later, and Japanese style chicken ‘nuggets’ were juicy and tender, encased in a crunchy panko jacket and served piping hot in a way that normally eludes this kind of thing. If you were at a drinks party and these were the nibbles, you’d be pushing old ladies out of the way for them. But it is worth saving room to try at least one of their Catalan-California hybrid rolls. We start with a Nagoya, a lavish creation of king prawns in tempura, wrapped in great rice, then succulent salmon, sprinkled with white sesame, finished with a nib of caramelised onions and splodge of miso mayo. Tender, fresh, crisp, chewy, creamy, oh my. There’s a triumphant bit of fusion for you. I was less enamoured of the Dragon Roll, which I found overly rich and generally too much on every level. Here Tamada combines foie and creamy avocado AND the house eel that they buy live and prepare in-house. Admirable as this is, this eel was a skinny creature with a skin-to-flesh ratio of about 50/50, which didn’t stop it being any less fat and the roll fell flat. Foie nigiri? Meh. But I did enjoy the eel nigiri, which was simple and clean and let the eel speak for itself. Skinny or not, it’s an impressive effort to go to in a small restaurant and details like this abound. Such as with the negima, chicken yakitori skewers grilled over proper white, bincho-tan volcanic charcoal, which, because it doesn’t release smoke like other charcoals and burns for longer, seems to impart a particular deliciousness to whatever it cooks. In this case, it was that magical combination of slightly bitter, faintly sweet that turns a chunk of workaday chicken into something rather special.

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RESTAURANT REVIEW 35

Authentic Mexican Restaurant located in the heart of the Eixample Esquerra where you can enjoy the most typical Mexican dishes and first-class service in a unique environment. The restaurant is tastefully decorated and furnished to make you feel like you’re in a Mexican hacienda. You can also enjoy our cocktail menu and the best Margaritas in town in our lounge/bar area as well as taking advantage of our weekly promotions. We recommend our nachos con pastor, our ceviches, exquisite tacos and meats.

Calle Mallorca 188

|

Tel. 93 127 1051

|

www.elalebrijebarcelona.com

Check our Facebook page ElAlebrijeBarcelona for daily promotions.

And so to the kobe burger. With the soft, voluptuous texture of tartar it felt like a treat, and one that the menu says comes with foie. It was either chopped into the beef to enrich the texture (which is clever, but you have to wonder if Kobe beef really needs it?) or perhaps the ever-watchful Danny had clocked my lack of enthusiasm for the stuff and simply taken it off? Like I say, the man is good. After that little lot you can imagine dessert was not exactly top of my mind, or stomach, but Danny did show up with a couple of glasses of chilled sake in a bamboo box. They do this in Japan, evidently, in order to catch your spillages— any drips from the glass fall into the box, then you knock the remnants back at the end of the night, the sake having absorbed just a hint of bamboo. You’ve got to love Japan! As for The Tatami Room, they’re well on the road to becoming a neighbourhood favourite and, I’m told, have much more up their sleeves for the coming months. Make the reserva. They just might surprise you.

Poeta Cabanyes 19, Poble Sec. Tel. 93 329 6740. www.thetatamiroombcn.com. Open daily, 1.30-4pm and 8.30-11pm. Tasting menu: €17.50 (not incl. wine); lunch menu: €8.50 (not incl. wine & not Sundays). ✪✪✪

34-35 Food & drink PDF.indd 57

10/23/13 11:45:50 AM


36 QUICK BITES

CASA LEOPOLDO

Catch up with this classic Barcelona restaurant that hasn’t forgotten its roots. By Tara Stevens. Photos by Pablo Pariente de Torre

I

n keeping with my current obsession for championing the old neighbourhood classics, I headed for a mid-week menú with a new friend to one of the oldest restaurants in town: Casa Leopoldo. The place has been going since 1929, a favourite of bullfighters back in the day when Catalunya allowed such a thing, as well as artists, writers and the other usual suspects of a city that has never been anything if not bohemian. Casa Leopoldo has changed little in that time and truly, they don’t make them like this any more, what with its brown tiles and painted beams and matriarchs done up like ringleaders with their brightly coloured blouses, matching lipstick and updos. Even the house wine here is old school—Rioja Reserva from 2007—and as such there is a certain buzz to be gleaned from the whole experience. Granted, there are many lunchtime menús in this city that come considerably cheaper than €25 and many that are far more adventurous. Casa Leopoldo is mainly about hearty, rib-sticking tradition—if you want a gooey, gelatinous pig’s trotter this is your place—balanced with a catch of the day for the less brave. But the real reason for

36. Quick bites PDF.indd 42

coming here is to soak up the atmosphere, ponder the Barcelona of a bygone era and tuck into some good old-fashioned cooking. The menu changes by the week (check it out online first to see if you fancy it or not) and features classics such as revueltos (sloppy scrambled eggs) with wild mushrooms (‘tis the season after all), luscious secreto iberíco (the shoulder blade cut of an Iberian porker) with apple relish, raisins and pinenuts, and a fancy crema catalana foam with turrón ice-cream. It’s quite a nice Friday lunchtime treat to signal the end of the week, and a useful place to have up your sleeve when the inevitable onslaught of Christmas visitors begins. If lunch can be rather quiet, the atmosphere at night can transport you to another time and place, an increasing rarity in a city that is full of trendy restaurants that could be anywhere in the world. Sant Rafael 24, Raval. Tel. 93 441 3014. www.casaleopoldo.com. Open Tue-Fri, 1.30-3.30pm and 8.30-11pm; Sat, 1.30-4pm and 8.30-11pm; Sun, 1.30-4pm. Menú del día: €25 for three courses with wine; Chef’s Tasting Menu: €45 with wine.

10/23/13 11:48:36 AM


FOOD & DRINK 37

Food&Drink

For more in food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking

NEFW &D

Discount for Metropolitan readers.

IN

under 20 | 20-30 | 30-40 | over 40 RV Reservation Advised

Café

Bar bar piadina4BORN Piadina is an authentic Italian speciality, 100 percent hand-made with natural ingredients and no preservatives or fat. Their fillings are fresh and tasty—rocket, vegetables and also with ham, salami and other high-quality meats. Don’t forget to taste the exquisite homemade desserts like tiramisú, cheesecake and crème caramel! Princesa 9 | M. 680 965 009

BOLLOCKS BAR4Barri gÒtic

SPICE CAFÉ4POBLE SEC Spice Café is an independently owned coffee shop in the heart of Poble Sec. Spice Café makes quality home-made baked goods on a daily basis, and they offer their personal blend of coffee which is Rainforest Alliance certified. Come and try their star product—their rich, delicious carrot cake which is considered one of the best in Barcelona! Free Wi-Fi and great, friendly service. Always.

The quintessential rock bar in downtown Barcelona. Covered in posters and graffiti from top to bottom, the bar has the air of an abandoned subway station where daily riffs and whiskey bring together all those who carry rock & roll in their blood.

Ample 46 | Metro Jaume I | Every day 7pm-3am M. 663 710 095 | www.bollocksbcn.com

Margarit 13 I Tel. 936 24 33 59 I www.spicecafe.es Wed-Sun 11am-9pm, Tues and holidays 5pm-9pm, Closed Mon

Bagel BE MY BAGEL 4GRÀCIA Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed.

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm

The ultimate sandwich place in one of the fastest-growing districts of Barcelona@22. They offer a great selection of sandwiches served on more than 11 types of artisan bread. In addition to their premium hamburgers, beef, turkey and lamb halal, you will find an extensive menu in an inviting location. Without a doubt, Carrot Cafe is the place of excellence for sandwiches in Barcelona.€

Tànger 22, Poble-nou I Metro Bogatell Tel. 93 309 3375 I Mon-Fri 9am-11pm, Sat 8am-midnight www.carrotcafe.es

YES WE BAGEL

keik 4SARRIÀ / SANT GERVASI

Take it easy on weekends. YES WE BAGEL delivers fresh hand rolled bagels on Saturday mornings. Do you miss having Bagels for breakfast or brunch? Make your order online before 6pm on Friday afternoons and they will be at your door first thing Saturday mornings. Choose from Plain, Sesame, Everything, Onion and Cinnamon Raisin. They also arrange events and offer office service. Don’t hesitate to get in touch.

International fusion dishes, plus a big variety of salads. Everything is made fresh and with top quality ingredients. Save space for their wonderful cakes and desserts - eat in or take away. On Saturdays and Sundays they offer brunch from 10am til 12.45pm, including eggs benedict, French toast and granola. Open every day of the year.

Order at www.yeswebagel.com or call 626 990 713

Food & drink Nov 2013.indd 45

carrot cafe4 poblenou

Doctor Fleming 21 | Tel. 93 414 5536 | www.keik.es

10/23/13 1:47:45 PM


38 FOOD & DRINK indian / pakistani CaFÈ MandaCarÚ4pobLE SEC

niCE SpiCE4POBLENOu

The irresistible food, fantastic wine list and the beautiful interior make Cafè Mandacarú a unique space, equally suitable for a coffee, a glass of wine or delightful tapas. You can also enjoy a lovely cocktail or liquor in a welcoming atmosphere, and be happily surprised to listen to the best musicians in concert every week.

Specialists in Tandoori. Typical halaal cuisine with high quality dishes. See the chefs prepare and cook your food which is all made with fresh ingredients. Boasting a Bollywood musical ambience, Nice Spice is an excellent choice for traditional Indian food in Barcelona.

Magalhães, 35 | Metro Poble Sec or Paral·lel | Near Plaça del Sortidor | Tel. 93 441 4017 www.cafemandacaru.com | Wed-Sun from 6.30pm

burger LiLibUrGEr4EIXAMPLE D You can choose from four types of burger: classic, cheeseburger, barbecue as well as bacon cheese, for 8 to 9.50. Sides include fries, bbq chicken wings, chicken nuggets and salads. Free delivery.

NEFW &D IN

Rosselló 290, 08037 I Tel. 93 458 0710 I www.liliburger.com Every day 1pm-3.30pm and 7.30pm-11.30pm

Pujades 207 | Metro Poblenou T. 93 308 9548 www.restaurantenicespice.com Wed-Mon 12pm-4pm, 8pm to 12am

indian / tandoori Madnoo FoodS4 POBLENOu

piM paM bUrGEr4BORN Here quality is of the utmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are also available and are all prepared on the premises.

Need to spice up your life? Try this new Tandoori restaurant in Poblenou. Authentic Punjabi cuisine made with the freshest ingredients. Madnoo Foods, situated in the @22 district, offers a unique dining experience. Serving contemporary Indian dishes, they blend delicate flavours and light textures and use the very finest ingredients. Free delivery. 10 percent discount on take away.

NEFW &D

Sabateret 4, Born I Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 I burger@pimpamplats.com Calle Bigai 1, Bonanova, 08022 I Tel. 93 211 5606 www.pimpamburger.com I Every day 1pm-12am

IN

Sancho de Avila 167-171 I Tel. 93 172 8131 Metro Glories / Poblenou I Tram Glories Every day 11am-11pm

Japanese

delivery vitaLi piZZa4 BARCELONA

dobLE ZEroo4BORN/ MARESME

Gourmet pizza delivery from 3 locations offering 50+ thin-crust, homemade pizzas. With specials like three large cheese pizzas for 15 and the option to pay by credit card, it makes for an affordable meal at home without all the fuss. Special offer: 2X1 on every Monday home delivery!

This contemporary and cosmopolitan Japanese restaurant uses all the secrets and art of exotic cuisines to create an exquisitely refined dining experience. Their tapas are a creative and harmonious fusion of flavours and textures and their innovative and transformational approach to sushi will prove almost impossible to resist.

Paris 109 I Metro Hospital Clínic Tel. 93 444 4737 Rosselló 270 I Tel. 93 458 0710 Taxdirt 13 I Metro Joanic/Gràcia Tel. 93 285 41 95 www.vitalipizza.com

Doble ZerOO Born, Jaume Giralt 53 Tel. 93 315 1744 Tomoe by Doble ZerOO, Sant Delfí 11 Tel. 93 211 9869 (Take away) Doble ZerOO Maresme, Buenos Aires 22, El Masnou Tel. 93 555 8599 (Take away)

indian Sitar4POBLENOu Situated in the heart of the fashionable Rambla de Poblenou, this cool, modern Indian restaurant offers the most exquisite variety of Indian cuisine you’ll find in Barcelona. They want to provide the best recipes, inherited from their ancestors, using the same fresh and seasonal ingredients, the same spices, the same touch and the same aroma, to create that mouth-wateringly unique and authentic flavour.

Rambla de Poblenou 101, 08005 T. 93 603 5909 | www.restaurantesitar.com Open Mon-Sun 12pm-12am

Food & drink Nov 2013.indd 46

aKaShi GaLLErY4 EIXAMPLE E AKASHI GALLERY is a teahouse and Japanese dining-room with a photo gallery located in the heart of Barcelona. You can enjoy top-notch Japanese tea from Kyoto Ippodo and excellent home-made Japanese dishes over wonderful photo and art exhibitions in an astonishing atmosphere. All kinds of soft drinks, Japanese alcohol and sweets are also available. Of course, you are welcome to stop by just to see the art exhibitions.

Rosselló 197 I T. 93 125 0877 Tue-Thurs 6pm-12am, Fri 6pm-1am, Sat 1.30pm-1am, Closed Sun-Mon, www.akashigallery.com

10/23/13 1:48:01 PM


FOOD & DRINK 39 Juice bar

Mediterranean

Peruvian SANO4SANTS

mochica4eixample e

Sano juice offers a healthy alternative choice with smoothies and juices, homemade bagels, paninis, wraps, tasty lunch menu for 10.45 and now brunch. Their food and smoothies are made to order with fresh ingredients, no extra sugar, offering the best quality. Sano Cuina (Sants) specialises in brunch and Sano Buenos Aires in take-away salads, wraps and drinks. Eat better. Feel better.

This magnificent Peruvian restaurant specialising in fish and seafood is located in the heart of Barcelona, just a few streets away from Plaza España. The menu offers a delicious variety of plates for any time of the day, each prepared with authentic Peruvian ingredients, bringing the true taste of Peru across the Atlantic. Their famous Pisco Sour cocktails won’t keep you away either! €

Creu Coberta 50 | Metro Plaça Españya | Tel. 93 327 8272 Buenos Aires 44 | Cerca de la Plaça Francesc Macià Tel. 93 217 8115

Gran Vía de les Corts Catalanes 487 I Metro Rocafort exit Calabria I Bus lines 9, 50, 56 Tel. 93 325 7110 I rexamochicasl@gmail.com www.restaurantemochicabcn.es I Mon-Sun 12pm-12am

Pizza MAGNOLIA 4 BARRI GÒTIC

€1 BEER FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

Messié Pizza is the new place in Gràcia that strives to be cheap and cheerful. It’s the perfect venue to have a few drinks after going to the cinema or theatre, or simply for meeting up with friends. In this charming Gràcia spot you will have the pleasure of sampling a great pizza with a homemade thin and crunchy base, topped with fresh ingredients from the local market. Messié Pizza offers all of this at a good price and in a unique atmosphere decorated with style and great music. Home delivery is also available.

In the heart of the Gothic quarter, Magnolia offers exquisite signature cuisine from chef Gianni Fusco at affordable prices. With its warm and loungy interior, it is the place of choice at any time of the day. During the week, breakfast and lunch menus attract big crowds thanks to their great quality and reasonable prices. In the afternoon, clients can choose from a variety of tapas or enjoy mojitos for just 3.50. Breakfast from 2.70, Lunch from 9. Dinner menu 17.95 (Sun-Thurs) 25 (Fri-Sat) Ciutat 5 | Metro Jaume I | 93 304 2376 | 691 504 942 noche@magnoliabarcelona.com | www.magnoliabarcelona.com | www.facebook.com/magnolia.rna Mon-Thurs 9am-1am, Fri 9am-3am, Sat 1pm-3am, Sun 1pm-1am

Organic

MESSIÉ PIZZA4GRÀCIA

Torrent de L’Olla 65 I Tel. 93 218 9345 Mon-Fri 6pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun 6pm-Midnight www.messiepizza.es I Metro Fontana / Diagonal

Thai amaltea4EIXAMPLE E

Thai gracia4GRÀCIA

Visit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant, where a warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Menu of the day 10.70, night and weekend menu 15.30.

Expect authentic ingredients all imported from Thailand and cooked by experienced Thai chefs. The Pad Thai and green and yellow curries have excellent subtle flavours. Simply delicious! The special tasting menu for 21 is a huge hit and allows you to try all the exotic dishes Thai Gracia has to offer. An affordable 12 menú del día is available during the week. The warm hospitality and attention to detail to every dish at Thai Gracia will keep you coming back for more.

Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | www.amalteaygovinda.com Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm, Closed Sun

Govinda (VEGETARIAN) 4BARRI GÒTIC

Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, nonalcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus.

Còrsega 381 | Metro Verdaguer / Girona Tel. 93 459 3591 | www.restaurante-thai-gracia.com Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV

Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 www.amalteaygovinda.com | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm

Vietnamese +ORGANIC 4RAVAL Restaurant +Organic has a wide range of vegetarian food for all seasons and offers the best food and the best quality using natural ingredients. They work hard to satisfy all the requirements of their clients, which is why they are recommended in many international travel books about Barcelona, and by well-known travel writers. Restaurant +Organic has space for more than 200 people for any kind of celebration. They can organise weddings, birthdays, meetings, concerts, etc. Follow them on Facebook at restaurant organic or on their website: www.masorganic.com.

Junta de Comerç 11 | Tel. 93 301 0902 masorganic@yahoo.com | www.masorganic.com

Food & drink Nov 2013.indd 47

Main dish take away €5.95

la vietnamita 4 GRÀCIA/BORN La Vietnamita is a Vietnamese street food-inspired restaurant in the heart of Gràcia. This month, they open a second restaurant in Born next to the Chocolate Museum and old market. They serve light and nutritious dishes such as traditional Pho soup, savoury rice noodles like Bun Bo, and a variation of fresh Vietnamese rolls and appetisers. All of their dishes have a vegetarian version and they aim to work with local or organic products and fresh ingredients while maintaining reasonable prices. Main dish take away 5.95. Torrent de l’Olla 78 | Tel. 93 518 1803 Comercio 17 | www.lavietnamita.com

10/23/13 1:48:08 PM


40 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

HEALTH · BEAUTY

BUSINESS

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS.

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Scissors of London BRITISH HAIRDRESSER

HAIR CUT €15 + HOT SHAVE €25

BCN Cuts - BARBER SHOP Directly from Boston to Gràcia comes BCN Cuts Barber Shop to offer you time to relax surrounded in a welcoming environment. with a drink in hand and jazz music playing in the background, you can have a hair cut or try their hot lather shave the classic way. BCN Cuts is a traditional barber shop with a contemporary atmosphere. You will keep coming back for the excellent service.

Tim aspires to listen to your needs and suggests how they might be met in distinctive and exciting ways. Style is unique and Tim will craft you a look achieving a harmony of shape and style. Tim has been hairdressing for over 12 years, and has trained, taught and worked in London’s top salons including Toni & Guy and vidal Sassoon. Tim works to fit in with the modern pace of life and offers a one to one service around your needs.

Gran de Gràcia 223 T. 93 611 1813 bcncuts@gmail.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

M. 633 382 787 timbulmer@btinternet.com www.scissorsofldn.com

YOGABODY FITNESS BARCELONA Grand Opening - First Class FREE! Finally... a fitness-based yoga studio with convenient class times, athletic styles and professional teachers. Here’s why you’ll love their studio: · Lose weight and get in great shape · Reduce stress and overcome injuries · Beginners welcome to every class · Personalised approach · No chanting, no incense, no gurus · Affordable memberships (and no hassles). Roger de Flor 118 (Plaça Tetuan) Tel. 93 192 5065 | Open 7 days info@yogabody.es www.YogaBody.es

10% OFF

Anthony Llobet English Hair Salon - HAIRDRESSER Don’t let your Spanish come between you and your hair. Anglo-Catalan Anthony Llobet has over 20 years of experience in hairstyling and a passion for excellent client service. Anthony leads a dedicated team of stylists who specialise in a variety of services, including Afro hair, extensions, straightening and make-up (and speak over 11 languages between them). The original retro interior and friendly staff create a very special atmosphere where you can relax and enjoy a stylish cut. Put your trust in Anthony and the team, who are strongly committed to providing you with outstanding service at affordable prices. Barceloneta, Almirall Churruca 8 T. 93 221 1612 / M. 619 224 695 Gràcia, Ros de Olano 19 T. 93 218 0449 / M. 692 371 307 Raval, Sant Pau 122 T. 93 441 3177 / M. 692 371 308 El Born, Carders 34 T.93 295 4871 / M. 692 371 404 Gòtic, Avinyó 34 T. 93 301 4513 / M. 692 371 405 www.anthonyllobet.com

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The vital Touch - MASSAGE The vital Touch Massage clinic helps you relax, energise, re-balance and improve your health and lifestyle with a therapeutic, holistic full-body massage. - Enjoy a revitalising massage with homemade oils, while relaxing to soothing music. Makes you feel fantastic! - Helps relieve tension, reduce stress, detoxify your body and boost your self-esteem. -Central Barcelona location. English, Swedish and Spanish spoken.

M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com

10/23/13 12:00:55 PM


DENTISTS · DOCTORS

Beauty Nail Concept -

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

MANICURE AND PEDICURE

For all your dental needs, a team consisting of their first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 30 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

A new concept in beauty treatments is now available in Barcelona. Facial and body treatments, massages, gel nails, porcelain nails, Shellac and O.P.I. manicures and pedicures, plus their classic Spa manicures and pedicures. Beauty Nail Concept offer the ultimate experience, combining highly-qualified technicians with exquisite care for their clients’ comfort and wellbeing.

Aribau 126, 08036 T. 93 174 3988 www.beautynailconcept.com

Rosselló 95, local, 08029 Metro: Hospital Clínic (L5) Entença (L5) T. 93 322 9114 Fax. 93 322 0220 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

Dr. Alistair Gallagher -

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic -

DENTIST

DENTIST

The British Dental Clinic has a patientfriendly philosophy that combines aesthetics, youthful appearances, and a commitment to total oral health. Conveniently located in Barcelona, they offer orthodontics including Fast Braces and Inman Aligner, implants, cosmetic dentistry, whitening and general family dentistry. Their talented, conscientious and friendly staff will help ensure that you comfortably receive the healthy and beautiful smile that you deserve.

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona provides excellent oral care in an English speaking environment. Dr. Nancy Pancko, an American dentist trained at Columbia University in New York, is a board-certified orthodontist. Dr. Javier Sanz is an American boardcertified periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university. Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care.

Diagonal 281 Metro: Sagrada Família (L5) Monumental (L2) T. 93 265 8070 M. 607 332 335 info@thebritishdentalclinic.com www.thebritishdentalclinic.com

Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 T. 93 246 9043 www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm

Tingsvall & McCarthy -

Pascual La Rocca - DENTIST

Swedish-trained dentist Dr. Stefan Tingsvall is on hand to provide a patient and caring way of treating people. Their philosophy is to preserve the natural teeth. They exclusively use organic and bio products for preventive treatments, and personalised treatment using essential oils and natural herbal rinses. Qualified USA-trained dental hygienist Elena McCarthy educates and motivates on how to take care of your mouth daily. They also offer the number one whitening treatment in the world “Brite Smile”.

with 15 years of experience and academic excellence, Dr. Mónica and Dr. Andres Pascual La Rocca open the doors of this new dental centre which features the latest in dental technology and equipment, and a warm, friendly atmosphere. In an international environment, they strive to make their patients feel comfortable and cared for. English, Italian, Spanish, Catalan and Portuguese are spoken.

Castellnou 47 T. 93 205 19 03 / M. 636 312 522696 664 430 Tingsvall.mccarthy@gamil.com www.tingsvall-mccarthy.com

Vilamur 15, 08014 T. 93 119 1931 plr.odontologos@gmail.com www.plrodontologos.com

DENTIST & DENTAL HYGIENIST

Dr. Boj - DENTIST

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Dr. Boj and his team provide specialised comprehensive pediatric dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Dr. Boj also lectures about all treatments related to these age groups, including laser dentistry.

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY 41

Doctor for Adults

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

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42 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

DOCTOR · SPEECH THERAPY · PSYCHOTHERAPY · HEALTH

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR

Bianca Kruk - THERAPIST

Established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care for the English-speaking community in Barcelona with access to all medical specialties and tests. His practice includes mental health.

Bianca Kruk at Ganesha Healing is a certified therapist in: Naturopathy, Jin Shin Jyutsu, Ear Acupuncture and Quantum Kinesis. She is a member of the Asociación de Profesionales de las Terapias Naturales. Treats: Physical and emotional rebalancing, Pain and stress relief, anxiety, depression, Chronic and acute conditions, Nutritional advice, pregnancy discomforts. All ages welcome! To find out more visit the web or call Bianca directly. Dutch, English, German, Italian and Spanish spoken.

Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro: Les Corts (L3) M. 662 291 191 stevedoc1965@gmail.com www.googolmedicalcentre.com Open Mon-Sat

ILO - Speech Therapy

Ilo-Barcelona 10 years of experience in Speech Therapy

Their therapist Claire-Lise Goasguen graduated with 1st class honours from the Faculté de Médecine, in Paris. She works with patients of all ages, providing diagnostics, specialised treatments and personalised guidance to help with the following disorders: Dyslexia; Pronunciation or phonologic disorders; Dispraxia; Handwriting disorders; Logic and mathematics; Swallowing dysfunction; Attention and memory impairments; Afasia; Disexecutive syndrome; Demencias; Autism; Heminegligence and neurovisual disorders; Dysphonia.

T. 65 439 3629 ganeshahealing@gmail.com www.ganeshahealing.wix.com/engl

Jonathan Lane Hooker -

Psychotherapist

Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people. Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.

www.ilo-barcelona.com

T. 93 310 4949 M. 651 441 257 Gran Via 646, 5°2a Clinica Sarria, Manila 39

T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

FREE CONSULTATION

Hestia - PSYCHOTHERAPY

Nick Cross - PSYCHOLOGIST /

The Hestia International Centre of Psychotherapy has become a reference in the city. The professional team works with individuals, couples and families through psychotherapy, coaching, counselling, clinical hypnosis, art therapy, NLP and EMDR. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, and Catalan. The first consultation is free. Passeig Sant Joan 180 Pral 2a Metro: Joanic (L4) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

PSYCHOTHERAPIST

Nick Cross is a registered psychologist, specialising in psychotherapy. Psychotherapy can help you with the causes of distress and unhappiness and it provides treatment for anxiety, fears, relationship difficulties, depression, problems adjusting, loss and trauma.

M. 644 193 825 ncross@copc.es

NEST - Network of English Speaking Therapists

Visit our online BUSINESS DIRECTORY www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, German, Italian and Greek. For detailed information, please visit their website. www.barcelonaNEST.com

MP 40-46 Nov 2013.indd 44

10/23/13 12:01:01 PM


HEALTH · TRANSPORT · services

Krishinda Powers Duff Bsc Hons - Midwife

Krishinda is a fully-qualified and trained British midwife offering home birth and home dilatation services. She also provides antenatal and postnatal care and support to mothers and babies for six weeks after birth. She is supported in her practice by a team of Spanish but British-trained midwives and alternative health care professionals as well as a breast feeding consultant/Doula. Midwife means ‘to be with woman’. Marenostrum Centre de Salut familiar

Make acupuncture your first choice, not your last resort! Tania is offering all Metropolitan readers a 15 discount on first appointments with this voucher. Acupuncture treats many conditions from pain, stress and depression to infertility and more. Call now to make your appointment or to see if acupuncture is right for you. Tania is a UK university trained acupuncturist with her own clinic in the centre of Barcelona. English, Spanish and German spoken. Enric Granados 133, 4-1 bis 08008 M. 644 322 161 info@taniaspearman.com www.taniaspearman.com

Pharmacy Serra Mandri -

Centre Mèdic Matterhorn -

The helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this wellknown Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and also offers a home delivery service.

The Centre Mèdic Matterhorn is an holistic medical centre, where the reliable and professional team will help you to solve your health problems and promote an integral psychophysical health program. Their specialists in holistic medicine, general practice, sports medicine, osteopathy, physiotherapy and massage will be pleased to take care of your needs. English, German, Spanish and Catalan spoken.

Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemist T. 93 416 1270 Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm

Bcn Windowshome improvements If your flat is noisy or you suffer from cold drafts then BCN windows can help. They can double glaze your traditional wooden windows and doors without changing the way they look. Their unique system is both cost effective and attractive. Have a look at their web site for more information; it even shows you how to price your own windows. Call Michael on 619 908 642 and quote “Metropolitan” for a free quote.

Holistic Medicine

Lepant 303-305 2º 4ª T. 93 347 6529 Metro: Sagrada Familia (L2, L5) info@centremedicmatterhorn.com www.centremedicmatterhorn.com

Fifty Soluciones CLEANING SERVICES

· Cleaning and domestic services. · For companies and private homes. · Over 10 years of experience. · Licensed and insured. · Competitive prices . · Excellent service. · All kinds of cleaning jobs.

M. 619 908 642 www.barcelonaflat.co.uk

Travessera de Gracia 50, 08021 Tel. 93 200 3075 Fax. 93 100 1435 info@fiftysoluciones.es www.fiftysoluciones.es

Mondorent - RENTAL

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS

MONDORENT is the leader in motorcycles and scooter rentals in Barcelona. With over 500 vehicles distributed throughout Barcelona and the Balearic Islands, they offer a fun, new way to see the city. You can rent a scooter, a motorcycle, a quad or a bike. And don’t miss out on their newest offer, the Renault Twizy electric cars. It’s never been more fun and easy to experience the city like a native. Be Free! Rent a Scooter!

George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

Passeig Joan de Borbó 80-84 Passeig de Colón 24 T. 93 295 3268 info@mondorent.com www.mondorent.com

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Tania Spearman -

acupuncture

Fontanella 16 Principal, 08010 M. 665 143 437 krishinda@gmail.com

CHEMIST

10% OFF

€15 OFF

BUSINESS DIRECTORY 43

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

10/23/13 12:01:08 PM


44 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

SCHOOLS · BUSINESS SERVICES

BCN L.I.P. LANGUAGE SCHOOL

Coral - spanish teacher

BCN L.I.P. Languages is a small school with a warm and welcoming atmosphere in Barcelona’s old town. They offer both intensive and extensive courses and it’s the perfect place to ensure success in your language immersion. The centre is equipped with the most advanced facilities to enable you to succeed in your chosen language.

Reach a Spanish level that best fits your time, interests and needs! Try Coral’s personalised courses using interesting and effective methods that make learning easy. She will come to your home or business and provide the material. All levels; private or small groups (up to 3). 60-min class €25; 90-min class €35. If you need classes via SKYPE, she can also offer online lessons. She is a native, experienced and highly-qualified teacher.

T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

M. 676 249 744 coral@coralprada.com

Natacha Elmir-

Graham Eisner -

BUSINESS CONSULTANT

PHOTOGRAPHY

Creative and fun photographer for your family portraits, maternity and baby shots, headshots, corporate events, concerts, weddings, birthdays, etc. No awkward posings guaranteed. Her job is to make you comfortable and bring out the best in you. Contact her for a free consultation, no strings attached.

BUSINESS CONSULTANT - EISNER CONSULTING IN JUST ONE SESSION INCREASE SALES BY 20% YOU DECIDE WHAT YOU PAY

M. 600 803 661 natachaelmir@gmail.com www.natachaelmir.com Facebook: Natachaelmirphotography

STANDARD COST €150

With 25 years senior corporate experience and 13 years business coaching, Graham Eisner will help you think laterally and find actionable ways to increase sales by 20 percent in just one session. A 75-minute session usually costs €150. However, you can decide how much to pay depending on how much you achieve from the session. Visit the website below to find out more about Graham’s experience and how the session works .

www.entrepreneurcoach.eu graham@eisner-consulting.com

BeVoip - Voip telephony provider •

Low-cost calls worldwide

Cheaper than skype

Fully managed 24 hour service

Call centre services

Per second billing

PBX installations

Receive calls on PC, mobile, landline, tablet

T. 93 220 1764 info@bevoip.com www.bevoip.com

Mrs.Q design studio - GRAPHIC DESIGN Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services from branding to graphic design, web design, ceramics, photography and bespoke invitations. Whether you have a new concept in mind that you want to see brought to life or need assistance rebranding your company, contact Mrs.Q design studio. At Mrs.Q design studio they love to design creative, engaging brand identities that help their clients flourish. They will help you bring some of your personality to your brand and use their knowledge of colour, passion for typography and creative flair to create an identity that engages your customers. They specialise in bespoke wedding invitations, tailor-made to suit the style of your wedding. Match your wedding invitations with save the dates, menus, place cards and thank you cards to create a polished look. They are now offering wedding stationary packages.

M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com

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Spain Accounting -

Tax AND Accounting services

Qualified UK accountant with 25 years’ experience in Spain offers: · Tax services for freelance ‘autónomos’ & companies · Income tax returns for employees & non-residents · Registration of ‘autónomos’ & company incorporation (SL) · Practical advice on setting up a business in Spain · Fast, reliable email service

Call David Cook 678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com

10/23/13 12:01:10 PM


BUSINESS SERVICES

Sánchez Molina -

BUSINESS DIRECTORY 45 FREE REVIEW

LEGAL PRACTICE

The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

Ibán Fernández Girón -

lawyer

The Spectrum IFA Group - INDEPENDENT FINANCIAL ADVICE

Ibán Fernández Girón offers legal advice in English to foreign persons and companies who live or work in Barcelona. His speciality is counselling startup companies.

Providing advice to the English Speaking International Community. Their team is here to help with: • Pensions/ Retirement Planning • Savings & Investments • Life Cover • Health Insurance • Currency Exchange • Mortgages • Tax Planning • Asset Management Why call them for advice? They are independent, regulated, qualified and very experienced, with offices in six European countries. Through their unique client centred approach, they will work together to build a strong, ongoing relationship that you can depend on for support and advice whenever you need it.

Bailèn 11, 08010 M. 679 252 653 ibanfernandez@icag.cat

Passeig de Gràcia 63, Principal 2A, 08008 T. 93 665 8596 barcelona@spectrum-ifa.com www.spectrum-ifa.com

Easi-Sat - TELEVISION SERVICE

BritSat - TELEVISION SERVICE

Have you lost Channel 5 and others? By summer 2013 most people were due to lose access to a wide range of UK Freesat channels. Solutions? They have them. Call them for details and options. Specialists in satellite TV, HD, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reliability. For a personal, efficient and friendly service, call the specialists. Their professional team provides satellite television from across Europe at unbeatable prices! For more information on new changes to freesat follow them on Facebook/Easisat and Twitter ‘@PaulDuval15’

BritSat offer the best TV packages from the UK, Ireland and much of Europe, including Russia. They have been installing satellite TV in Catalunya for 15 years and have an excellent reputation for quality, reliability, price and aftersales service. * Sky cards with or without a UK address * All the latest Sky HD equipment * Sound systems and multi-screen viewing Freesat services will almost certainly be lost to this region of Spain by the middle of summer and BritSat have the solutions. * They supply and install all the latest internet-based TV systems * No internet? No problem, they are the official installers of the market leading TOOWAY Satellite internet system * Extensive channel list from the UK and Ireland.

T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 enquiries@easisat.net www.easisat.net

M. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com

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10/23/13 12:01:12 PM


46 DIRECTORY

SHOPPING For more shopping visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/shopping

BATEAU LUNE

GOGO Baby

Plaça Virreina 7, 08012 · T. 93 218 6907 · www.bateaulune.com · info@bateaulune.com www.facebook.com/bateaulune

Balmes 383, 08022 T. 93 527 5760 hola@gogobaby.es www.gogobaby.es www.facebook.com/gogobaby.com

Bateau Lune is a traditional toy shop for kids where you can find a large variety of traditional toys including; wooden bicycles, trains, also micro scooters, also kites and outdoor games and many more rare and original toys. Go visit them today and get ideas for special occasions such as birthday presents and Christmas gifts. Check out their free activities for children twice a month on the Virreina square in Gràcia!

At GOGO baby they embrace the spirit of joy. They believe in making your baby’s world magical, comfortable, and full of smiles. Discover developmental toys, comfty baby clothes, urban-friendly strollers and carriers, and a selection of English story books; everything is high quality, city proof, and reasonably priced. If you’re looking for that special gift or getting ready for little one’s arrival, they make shopping convenient, fun, and affordable.

EL MUNDO DE HAMACAS

Josep Anselm Clave 3 (Drassanes) · Mon-Sat 10.30am-2pm, 4pm-8pm · T. 93 317 5115 · www.mundodehamacas.es

Ever thought of spending your mid-day rest in a comfy, restful hammock, rather than on the old living room couch? You can find this friendly hammock heaven just 25m off La Rambla (close to the Columbus statue) in the historical centre of Ciutat Vella. El Auténtico Mundo de Hamacas offers high quality hammocks in different sizes and styles, suitable for all.

Sitges 7 · T. 93 676 2311 · www.facebook.com/Artshopbcn

Located close to Plaça Catalunya, the Artshop has a full range of artist supplies and a small family gallery. If you need a simple watercolour set or any other specialist items, they can be bought or ordered for you at the shop.

GREY STREET/SATAN’S COFFEE CORNER

CABOCLO HAND MADE SHOES

Peu de la Creu 25 · M. 600 334 639 www.facebook.com/GreyStreetBarcelona

Baixada de la Llibreteria 8 · T. 93 317 2929 www.caboclobrasil.com

A small corner where the best coffee products meet gifts and garments from all over the world, including many local designers. Located in the Raval, Grey Street and Satan’s Coffee Corner brings you a wide range of goodies from new and vintage clothing to stationery, ceramics, jewellery, teas and a number of coffee varieties. Plus Satan’s coffee corner offer 3-day coffee courses. You’re sure to find something you like!

Hand made by the best artisans from the north of Brazil, the Caboclo team defines themselves as an Eco & Social company. Each sandal and shoe is made with chrome free leather, and uses recycled tyres to form the sole. Visit them just steps from the city hall and look over their unique and elegant styles that compliment an easy going lifestyle. Don’t miss the sustainable decoration!

CALADAZUL

PARRUP

Torrent de l’Olla 62, 08000 · M. 617 021 527 · www.caladazul.com

Located in Gracia, this new shop has a huge range of products to help you cut down, be healthier or even stop smoking! With their products there is no tar, no arsenic, no carbon monoxide nor any of the other toxic substances found in tobacco. You can use it wherever you want, whenever you want, with the same satisfying feeling that tobacco gives you. Quote Metropolitan for a free trial and ask about special reader discounts and offers.

24 KILATES

Comerç 29 · T. 93 268 8437 · www.24-kts.com

Located in the Born shopping area, this exclusive streetwear store has become internationally renowned thanks to its exciting design collaborations with many famous brands like New Balance, Stussy, Reebok, Lacoste, Puma, Asics, Nike, Saucony, Adidas, New Era and more. Definitely worth a look.

MP 40-46 Nov 2013.indd 48

ARTSHOP

Banys Nous 20 · www.parrup.com www.facebook.com/ParrupBarcelona

PARRUP brings together the best from local designers, carefully selected unique pieces, limited edition products and finely crafted clothes, jewellery, art and furniture.Why PARRUP? Because they love talented people. Because they want to showcase what they can offer. Because they believe in the local economy and production transparency. Because they don’t believe in the ‘made in Asia’ business. Nothing more but nothing less.

MICROGESTIO

València 87/89 · T. 93 454 1001 · info@microgestio.es www.microgestio.com

Need help with your Mac? Want to buy an iPad? Microgestió supplies everything a Mac user needs, including service and repairs, classes on how to use different programs, useful tutorials, and the latest new products on the market. You can count on Microgestió for all of your Mac needs... and a friendly, professional service!

10/23/13 12:01:17 PM


DIRECTORY 47

JOBS To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS www.classiďŹ eds.barcelona-metropolitan.com For the latest jobs for English speakers in Barcelona, follow us on Twitter @WorkInBarcelona

Find everything you need here!

In our online directory of English-speaking businesses in Barcelona www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/directory

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48 DIRECTORY

Multilingual Service Desk Analyst Are you a motivated and customer-oriented professional with passion for IT? Computacenter Services Iberia is looking for multilingual speakers of the following languages French, German, Italian, Spanish, Portuguese, Dutch, Polish, Turkish, Swedish, Finnish, and Norwegian. The Job Receiving calls and e-mails regarding IT related issues Carrying out Level 1 troubleshooting Assigning tickets to resolver groups Managing onsite engineers tasks Involvement in managing different projects We offer 23 days holiday paid a year Ticket restaurant card Bonus for CV referral Free private healthcare insurance Nursery tickets Free Spanish classes in the office On-going training Internal promotions

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CLASSIFIEDS Hundreds more ads on our website www.barcelona-metropolitan.com For sale, for rent, personals, job vacancies, job search, classes and more. ROOMS FOR RENT Free room in Sitges I offer you a free office and a space to live in Sitges a professional guidance so you will succeed. I am looking for people that can sell and want to own their own business, then join my company and network. We sell healthy coffee and tea. This product comes from the USA where it is a huge success and it arrived here two years ago. You can earn a very good salary. Feel free to contact me any time. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Looking for small apartment We are a 40-something English couple looking for a small studio apartment or shared flat within walking distance of Parc de la Ciutadella. Any ideas please email. We can view immediately. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Sunny room & private terrace I rent the first floor of my duplexpenthouse. It consists of a room of about 25m2, private bathroom with bath tube and private terrace (L shaped 30m2) with direct access from the room. Views to Tibidabo and Montjuic. The room is not furnished. Just a double bed. Loads of light, sun all day. The whole floor is completely private. It is accessed through a staircase from the living room. On the ground floor it’s me, a Spanish girl (35 years). We would share only the fully equipped kitchen. The apartment is very cozy and very well located. Located in Poble Sec 100m from the metro stop Paralel (green and violet line). It is a street with no traffic. It is the perfect combination between having your own apartment and living in one shared! Looking for a quiet person (no house parties) and respectful of others. Available from November 2013. Minimum stay of 5 months. €500 deposit. Price: €580. For photos please contact me. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). 3 bedrooms available, Vila Olímpica We have 3 bedrooms available in a great flat in Vila Olimpica, just 3 minutes walk from the University Pompeu Fabra. With a balcony, kitchen, 2 bathrooms and great living room. Nice, light apartment. 5th floor with lift. Fully furnished. Very close to buses and 5 minute walk to Metro Marina or train station Arco de Triomfo. 10 mins walk to the sea! Either for individuals or groups of friends. Please text Martin on (+34) 699 992 519 for more info or to arrange a viewing. Flat share Sitges Large, well appointed apartment with two double bedrooms to rent and

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share of large lounge, dining room, kitchen etc. Balcony with amazing views, pool, garden, parking, wi-fi, video entry, porter, etc. Email - pjoinspain@hotmail.com. Will work for food & lodgings I am a single Mom with 3 autistic small children looking to share a flat (or cheap flat to rent) around the Sagrada Familia neighborhood. Native English speaker and my boys relate in English too. I offer my services as English tutor, translator, house cleaning, personal assistant, etc. I’ve a knack for typing in handwritten notes (and audio) though am a slow typist, I am hard working and a fast learner. Would like to be considered. Will send resumé if requested. (Contact via our online Classifieds section).

quiet side street. Gas-fired heating. Unfurnished. €900 / month. Call Mark: 605 329 272 Studio in Barcelona Studio to rent in Barcelona. Carrer Tallers. Available for 3 months beginning 1st November. €800 per month plus bills.One month Deposit required which will be returned at the end. Tel. 600 054 170 Sitges centre apartment to rent 1 bedroom apartment to rent in Sitges, Oasis area. Ground floor with 15m2 garden. Available until April 2014. €750 per month.Just one month rent in advance required. Tel. 600 054 170 FOR SALE

St Just Desvern shared flat St Just Desvern nr Walden, tram and bus to Francesc Macia, in 2 floor attic dúplex with large terrace, two rooms and bathroom, share kitchen, living room, lift. On-street parking free €495 + utilities, wifi installed, really quiet area nr supermarket. Email me utbacon@tresnet.com

Microchip cat flap Brand New SureFlap Microchip Cat Flap. Battery-powered cat flap which learns your cat’s existing microchip (compatible with 9, 10 and 15 digit microchips). Purchased in the UK for GBP 90. Instructions in English. €60. (Contact via our online Classifieds section).

Looking for double room/small flat Hi, I’m a working mother looking for a big double room or a small flat for me and my adorable 1-yr old boy. Anywhere in Bcn as long as it’s near a metro or FGC. We love pets. (I’m a native English/Italian speaker and speak French & Spanish). (Contact via our online Classifieds section).

Winter clothes for selling Selling winter clothes for skiing. In good condition. Only used once. Size 38. Light blue. A pack inluding: 2 jackets, gloves, trousers, boots and accesories, all for 150 euros. Interested write now, don´t miss Snowboarding this incoming winter. Reason for selling: moving to a tropical place... aloha! (Contact via our online Classifieds section).

APARTMENTS TO RENT 2 bed, 2 bath apartment Beautiful, fully-furnished and stylish 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom flat in Poble Nou, available from November 1st April 1st 2014. €850 euros per month (bills included). Located on the third floor with a lift in a new and modern building with a fully equipped kitchen including dishwasher and washing machine. The large lounge also has a sunny terrace and free wifi. There are 2 bathrooms and 2 bedrooms. The master bedroom has one double bed. The second bedroom has 2 singles beds. There is also central heating through-out. Contact Jordi to view: +34 686 077 808 (jordi@bcnbound. com). Attic in Raval Bright, airy attic flat (with lift) available in the heart of north Raval, five minutes walk from MACBA and Rambla de Raval. 90m2. Two double bedrooms both opening on to small terrace overlooking a quiet patio de manzanas. Recently renovated kitchen and bathroom. 25m2 living room with 2 small balconies giving on to

8 x HP Pro 3500 Desktops I am liquidating a business and have 8 HP Pro 3500 MT Desktops for sale. The spec is Intel i3 3.3GHz, 4GB, 500GB, Windows 7 Pro. All 1 year old in excellent condition and come with LG Flatron screens . They have English operating systems and keyboards so are ideal for either an English business or English students. Can be picked up from central Barcelona. Will sell either individually or as a job lot. Price per unit €299 or job lot price €2000. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Office furniture and equipment Clearing downtown office: Boardroom table (dark wood) €250, 3 swivel chairs with armrests €45 each, 5 swivel chairs without armrests €10 each, 3 office tables (light wood) €50 each, 1 Ikea extendible wooden dining table €150, 3 under desk drawers €20 each, tall set of shelves in white wood €40, low shelving/cupboard (wood) €40, various pinboards/bins/ office equipment etc. (Contact via our online Classifieds section).

Dishwasher Zanussi Dishwasher Zanussi. It is only one year old - has a guarantee from Eroski. It has been used for less than 9 months as we moved to a new flat and unfortunatelly there is no space for it here. It is very silent and doesn’t have any scratches or damage. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Upright piano for sale Good condition Kemble piano for sale overstrung, 1981 - 950 euros could possibly deliver call Sebastian Tel. 699 687 978. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). SEEKING British bulldog British businessman currently based in Barcelona seeks English speaking attractive Spanish/South American/ Central European Woman 33 - 43 for companionship and more. Serious and successful applicant will be lead into a change of life and taught financial independence with her own online business. Eventual plans are to return to a Mallorcan Finca during early 2014. Don’t delay click today! (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Call for artists and writers Anulios is a proposed online cultural review published in Barcelona, Spain. We are a small collective of artists, writers and thinkers who aim to produce a high-quality journal dealing primarily with art, parapolitics, religious and paranormal topics with a focus on 60s/70s counterculture, paratheology (Islamic and Christian primarily), magic/occult/paranormal/ Fortean issues, new fiction, art and photography. We welcome anyone who wants to contribute original artwork, writing or photography for publication or just to sit around with a pint discussing philosophy, art and literature! https:// www.facebook.com/anulios http:// www.meetup.com/anulios/ WANTED Wanted 4-bed flat in Born Midwife seeks 4 bed flat in El Born for her and her 3 children. In good condition and no more than €800 a month. I am happy to sublet. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Ladies bike Looking for a ladies bike for use round town. Wonderful if it already has a baby-seat. Willing to pay up to 80 euros. Barcelona area. Contact recdenny@ yahoo.com

10/22/13 1:29:02 PM


50 BACK PAGE

Roger de Flower: An apology

I

as crass and rampant commercialism, unfettered development and cars. There might even be occasion to use the first person pronoun. Readers of long memory will doubtless recall the origins of this column, back in March 1999. It was drafted in to replace a bilingual crossword that was temporarily unavailable due to a hurricane. No, really. Presumably the then editor, Richard ‘Svengali’ Schweid, thought that a random selection of obtuse words was the best replacement for a bilingual crossword. In the months that followed, the column was allowed to remain, perhaps because the venerable Mr Schweid never made it as far as the back page, and was under the apprehension that normal service had been resumed. De Floribus Enterprises would like to apologise to any crossword lovers still waiting for their monthly fix, 14 years and 193 issues later. Even the sack-loads of letters failed to alert him to the continued occupation of this prized plot of literary real estate, back in the happy days when readers really did write in,

and not always to complain (about luminous pets, most memorably.) Amusingly, among other abusers, the moniker Roger de Flower seems to have been misappropriated by an acne-ridden and unimaginative player of on-line war games. This seems a little perverse. Roger de Flor was a fearsome 14thcentury mercenary fighting for the Catalan crown. Roger de Flower is a winsome 21st-century mercenary writing for the Catalan crowd. It shouldn’t be difficult to spot the difference. One might dream of being Roger de Flor, handsome and swashbuckling, but one ends up as Don Quijote, a misguided scourge of tilting windmills (sic.). So rather than saddle up a modern-day Rocinante, like any self-respecting mercenary, this column will be trudging wearily into the sunset—at least until further notice. It’s been a pleasure to write, and if it hasn’t been a pleasure to read, why are you still here? Life’s too short to read rubbish, whatever Dan Brown’s sales figures might suggest. All the best,

HEATHER BUCHANAN

CHRIS PETERS

PABLO PARIENTE DE TORRE

Originally from Scotland, Heather arrived in Barcelona after graduating from university two years ago. She has been working as a TEFL teacher since moving here. Barcelona was the city of choice for Heather because of its exciting lifestyle, the experiences that you can have here and the people you meet—it is impossible to be bored in this city. Working as an editorial assistant for Metropolitan has given her the opportunity to find out more about what the city has to offer as well as get involved in the publishing world.

Chris grew up in London where he worked in publishing before embarking on a career in teaching. Having met his future wife in the summer of 2005, he decided to up sticks and move to her hometown the following year. He now lives happily in Barcelona, where he teaches English and Social Sciences at a secondary school. When not marking or planning classes, Chris can often be found painting landscapes, studying Catalan or travelling, especially in Asia, where he and his wife have managed to visit over 10 countries in the last six years.

Pablo is a photographer based in Barcelona since 2010. After living in different European cities, he came here to study photography. He has a degree in History of Art, and since he arrived in Barcelona has fallen in love with the city, the people and, especially, the food. Focused on human relationships, he wants to capture the essence of the city and its interaction with people through his lens. He looks forward to learning something new every day, he is devoted to art, cinema and literature, and has participated in several exhibitions in Barcelona.

—Roger de Flower

By Ben Rowdon

scoop

n the past, readers may have been given the impression that this column was written by a verbose sociopath averse to change and allergic to the modern world. De Floribus Enterprises would like to point out that nothing could be further from the truth. It is in fact automatically generated by a rather cantankerous algorithm on an old Hewlett-Packard. Type in three unconnected ideas—litter, nudity and Christmas, for example—and out come 500 different but grammatically-correct words ready for mass consumption, and only slight editorial interference required. Sadly, it has come to the attention of De Floribus Legal Services that many of these words are libellous, conjectural or simply synonyms. As both the software and hardware responsible are now obsolete, in future this column will be crowd-sourced, with a selection of readers invited to submit up to 10 words each, which will then be woven together in an aestheticallypleasing order by an eager and literate intern. In a break with tradition, from now on the column will also be embracing heretical ideas such

contributors

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Business and home telecoms services in Spain. English speaking customer and technical support.

Tooway Satellite Broadband Jazztel Broadband Iberbanda Wimax BT Mobile Spain BT Broadband

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Fortec.es Communications

T. 93 181 5631

10/23/13 10:49:24 AM


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