Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 209 by Barcelona Metropolitan

JUNE 2014 Nº 209 Free

Going it alone THE foreigners WHO ARE OPENING businessES in BaRcelona

Vermut time Catalunya’s most classic aperitivo makes a comeback

On your bike Discover the varied landscapes of the Ronda Verde

Pullout Calendar

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Costa Brava

Secret Dinners

A Place of My Own

Restaurant Reviews

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JUNE 2014 Regulars 06 08 09 10 34 36 50

New in Town In the City Recipe A Place of My Own Travel Food & Drink Interview

What’s on

Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Andrea Moreno

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Editor Esther Jones Assistant Editor Daniel Whitehead Art Director Aisling Callinan Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell, Adriana Soto

Music Art Best of the Rest Pullout June Calendar

Features

Sales Assistant Martijn Bronder Editorial Assistants Amanda Astramowicz, Francesca Raquet

13 No shame

From a contentious piece of city planning to the heart of a community.

Contributors Miguel Hudin, Carol Moran, Mary Reynolds, Tara Stevens, Daniel Whitehead, Sam Zucker

14 REPORT: Open for business

Cover image Lee Woolcock

Despite the recession, plenty of foreigners are taking the plunge.

Photographers Aimee McLachlan, Lee Woolcock Illustrator Ben Rowdon

28 On your bike

Editorial: editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com General: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com.

The Ronda Verde offers varied landscapes on the city’s doorstep.

30 Vermut time

Join the revival of this classic aperitivo.

Carrer de la Ciutat 7 2ª-4ª, 08002 Barcelona.

33 Secret dinners

Tel. 93 451 4486

We try the latest fashion in dining out.

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Directories

The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

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contributors

Depósito legal: B35159-96

Food & Drink Business Shopping Jobs

MARY REYNOLDS

ESTHER JONES

DANIEL WHitehead

Mary writes about cycling, food, travel and the environment for several American magazines. She’s currently writing The Quake that Drained the Desert, a book that shows how today’s southwestern U.S. water crisis began with an 1887 earthquake in Mexico. Originally from Tucson, Arizona, Collserola is Mary’s favourite place to bike, walk and be in Barcelona.

Esther is from East Yorkshire in the UK. She moved to Barcelona in 1995 and set up Metropolitan in 1996. Three children and many years later, she now lives in the Maresme and enjoys the best of both worlds: Barcelona and a small beach town. Having been through the experience herself, she has always been fascinated by what drives people to set up their own business, the subject of this month’s report.

After finishing his degree in Public Relations in Madrid, 2009, Daniel wasn’t ready to return to his native England, and instead chose to live and work in several cities across Spain. It seems Barcelona won him over, and he’s been here for the last three years. He loves walking and cooking, and is actually a classicallytrained pianist.

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06 IN THE CITY

NEW IN TOWN our roundup of what’s new in barcelona

deck the walls The latest addition to the Born’s abundance of cool eateries is Guzzo. This cafe/bar/restaurant/club/art gallery opened its doors just a couple of months ago in Plaça Comercial and is set to be a key meeting point for the city’s music and art lovers. Illustrators, photographers and street artists are encouraged to leave their stamp on the walls of the space, whilst other works are exhibited throughout. As well as being a great spot for an early brunch, late lunch, or a hearty dinner, they also cater for night owls until the early hours, with live music sessions and regular DJ sets. Guzzo. Plaça Comercial 10. www.guzzo.es

made in bcn There’s a growing trend for goods designed and made in Barcelona, and BORN BCN offers just that. Opened just a month ago, this small concept store offers everything from t-shirts and bags to travel accessories and handmade jewellery. You don’t have to be a tourist to wear a bit of the Ciutat Comtal on your back, so pop down and check out the carefullycrafted products they have to offer. BORN BCN. Carrer dels Ases 1. www.bornbcn.com

Shaken not stirred

Pre-beach brunch

Living in such a cosmopolitan city, we’re spoiled for choice when it comes to cocktail bars and lounges, but how about trying your hand at some of your own? In March, ‘Cocktail Shop’ opened in the Eixample, boasting a 150 square metre space devoted to the art of mixology. Specialising in ingredients, tools and premium products, it has everything you need under one roof to get creative with your own concoctions. If you really want to get serious, they also offer regular classes and workshops. For more information, visit their website and facebook page. Cocktail Shop. Roger de Llúria 46. www.cocktailshop.es

Juanita Lalá ‘Food & Boom’ is a newly revamped restaurant in the Barceloneta and, despite its tourist-trap location, it’s already a hit with the locals. This restaurant offers an eclectic LatinMediterranean menu, with reasonably priced (and perfect for sharing) dishes. Wash them down with a cocktail from their generous menu, inside or out on the terrace, and you have the perfect start to your day on the beach. Whether you’re looking for a quick caña and nachos, or are in the mood for a boozy yet substantial late lunch, this place is a winner every time. Juanita Lalá. Plaça Pau Vila 1. www.jaunitalala.com

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IN THE CITY 07

FESTIVALGUIDE Not to be missed this summer

As the days heat up, there are plenty of reasons for

sticking around, so get your diary out and start planning your summer...

Matinée June 8th. Chill out to top name DJs at Barcelona’s biggest waterpark, in Premiá de Mar. Festival Pedralbes June 12th - July 10th. Open air concerts in the beautiful Jardins del Palau Reial de Pedralbes showcasing plenty of top international artists. Sónar June 12th - 14th. Barcelona becomes Europe’s epicentre for electronic music lovers with this three-day event that hosts big name DJs and artists. Pride Barcelona June 19th - 29th. The most important LGBT pride festival in the Mediterranean with ten days of culture, sport, debate, entertainment and parties. Cruilla July 11th - 13th. The eighth edition of this festival will offer live music, activities, games, workshops, a circus and stalls by social project organisations. Circuit Festival August 6th - 17th. The biggest international festival for gays and lesbians in Europe with 12 intense days of sun and fun: outdoor and indoor parties, DJ’s and artists, and daytime activities. Festa Major de Gràcia August 15th - 21st. Barcelona’s most festive street party offers a varied programme for families and children during the day, and free concerts in the squares at night. Festa de la Mercè September 19th - 24th. In honour of the city’s patron saint, la Mercè has become the biggest celebration of the year with a huge programme of events including concerts, fireworks, art and traditional Catalan culture.

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08 IN THE CITY

the informer Barcelona has been voted Europe’s second best shopping destination, with tourists now spending an average of 40 percent of their holiday budget in the city’s retail outlets. Retailers in the centre of Barcelona have turned down the Ajuntament’s offer of opening four hours on Sundays during the summer, protesting that it is too little. Cyclists, lock up your bikes. Since January 2014 the police have received over 1000 reports of stolen bicycles in the capital. Since 2006, the number of rental contracts in Barcelona has doubled. The report for 2013 identified the financial crisis as the obvious cause for the increasing demand of rental accommodation. The World Trade Centre is currently for sale, in the hope of attracting foreign inverstment to purchase the largest office duplex in the city. Works on Paral.lel start this month. They will last 10 months and cost €9.5m. The bicycle lane will be moved from the side of the road to the centre, where it will have protection on either side. Re-urbanisation work is in progress at Pl.de la Gardunya. Until now the space has been used as a parking, loading and unloading zone connected to the Boqueria market. The plans are to extend the market and also provide open green space in the Raval. Barcelona has been voted On Sunday May 18th, Barcelona welcomed a record-breaking 31,000 cruise passengers to the city. €3.5m is said to have been spent in the city by the tourists in that one day. The Joan Maragall library in the Vil.la Florida Gardens is expected to open in June. The new cultural space was built under sustainable criteria and designed to be accessible to local residents. Some 80 musicians have put themselves forward as candidates to play at some of the 39 reserved points on the metro and streets during the summer. TMB and the Street Musicians Association are assessing them for quality.

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AFTER

WORK

Partial to the odd ‘cheeky one’ after a hard day at the ofﬁce? ‘Afterworks’ are all the rage in the city but with such an overwhelming number of places to choose from, where do you turn? We’ve put together our top places where you can enjoy your mid-week drinks for all budgets.

Colmado Situated on leafy Enric Granados, this small, traditional bar is perfect for an afternoon Aperol Spritz or Gin & Tonic. Their terrace is always buzzing, and as the area is popular for outdoor drinks, there are plenty of neighbouring bars to continue the party. Most terraces on this street are open until 1am during the summer. Provença 236. Patrón Patrón offers a lavish approach to your average afterwork. They offer great cocktails and live music every day of the week and Mondays now boast a half-price cocktail menu from 9pm with pica-pica and entertainment. Mondays have never been so extravagant and fun! Travessera de Gràcia 44. Cara Vela With the light nights well and truly upon us, there’s no better place to get the last bit of afternoon sun. It’s a great, easy-on-the-wallet option to wind down after the working day, chill with a beer and watch the world go by. You can also enjoy their tasty, good value snacks as the sun sets on the lively Port area. Pas de Sota Muralla 3.

METROPOLITAN PEOPLE MADDY ZACKS

Student, California A: The most obvious effect is the amount of tourists around the streets. It’s hard to get around sometimes because of the many school trips and guided tours and it makes living in the centre of the city quite stressful. However we need the tourism in the city to keep people in their jobs.

Skybar- Hotel Grand Central The beautiful Skybar at the Grand Hotel Central is open to non-guests every evening from 8.30pm. Great cocktails, the iconic ‘inﬁnitive’ pool and panoramic views of the city and coastline make for a scenic early evening. Via Laietana 30. Ziryab This little gem in the Born is making its way up the ranks on Tripadvisor, and for a reason. Perfect for a few drinks (especially mojitos), it’s also a great spot if you want to stay on for dinner, with their cheap and deliciously eclectic mix of Arabic-fused tapas. Look out for their mid-week deals on their facebook page. Grunyi 4. Boca Chica Boca Chica is emblematic of the city’s exclusive night scene. It’s not cheap, but the location, decor and drinks menu make it a hotspot for the uptown crew. Open daily from 6pm to 2.30am, it’s easy to get carried away into the early hours—and if you’re looking to impress a visiting colleague, this is certainly the place. Passatge de la Concepció 12.

HOW DO YOU THINK THE INCREASING TOURISM MARKET IS AFFECTING BARCELONA?

CLÉMENCE DAUBELCOUR

Graphic Designer, France A: After the release of the ﬁlm L’Auberge Espagnole, many French came to Spain to try the cosmopolitan experience of Barcelona. My Spanish landlord told me that now many restaurants and clubs are ﬂourishing in the city to meet the French demand. We can’t complain with all this choice.

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IN THE CITY 09

RECIPE Moroccan spiced

chicken patties in gem lettuce cups Prep time: 20 mins Cook time: 30 mins Total time: 50 mins Makes: 16

INGREDIENTS 600g boneless chicken breasts 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2.5 cm fresh ginger, grated 2 tsp ras el hanout spice blend 3 tbsp olive oil ½ tsp soft light brown sugar serve with: 16 small leaves of little gem lettuce ¼ cucumber, quartered lengthways, deseeded and diced 1 small onion, thinly sliced 1 handful coriander leaves hummus 2 tablespoons harissa paste

INSTRUCTIONS For the patties: Mince the chicken in a food processor and stir in the garlic, ginger and ras el hanout. Season with salt and pepper. Allow to marinate for 2-3 hours or overnight if possible. You don’t have to do this, but it does make a difference. Form the chicken mixture into 16 golf ball-sized rounds.Wet your hands a little as you do this so that the chicken doesn’t stick to your hands. Flatten the top of each one to make a patty. Heat the oil in a large, non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the patties in two or three batches for three minutes on each side. Just before they are cooked, sprinkle each side with a little sugar and fry briefly until slightly caramelised. Drain on kitchen paper and keep warm while you cook the remaining patties, adding more oil when necessary. To serve: Put a chicken patty on top of each lettuce leaf, scatter a little cucumber, onion and coriander over and top with a spoonful of the hummus or whatever dip you choose to serve. Serve warm or at room temperature. Anjalina Chugani was born in London but moved to Bangalore in India when she was 15; since 2000, she has been living in Barcelona where she works as an English teacher. A self-taught cook, she held Social Suppers in the meeatings23 space, and has a blog for recipes and food photography, www.rainbowspoon.com. rainbowspoonfood@gmail.com

EMILY BAYLISS

NATALIE MURRAY

Academic Coordinator, Scotland A:In a way it is easy to blame tourism for a perceived loss of culture or a rise in petty theft, but I believe we should focus on the positives; the most obvious advantage of tourism being increased revenue into the city.

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Social Media Intern, UK Barcelona’s streets are jam-packed with tourists. Tourism supports a country’s economy but the mass tourism of Barcelona is not only driving the locals away, but all that is traditional and cultural. Local businesses can’t afford to compete with the big chains that are taking over.

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The main living space contains many impeccably preserved original features.

10 A PLACE OF MY OWN

AN ARTISt’s

HOME

Once the studio of the great catalan artist, joan miró, geORge and sara invite us into their born loft.

Sara and George first met in Barcelona at a social function, and have lived in Miró´s old studio together since the early nineties.

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ara Bossaert and George Cowdery have lived in this apartment for over two decades. George is a freelance computer-tech from New York and now considers Barcelona as home. Sara, originally from Ghent, Belgium, is a freelance architect and first came here to study before the Olympics when the city’s architecture scene was booming. The couple met at a social function at the North American Institute in the early nineties, and share their two-bedroom home with their 14 year-old daughter. Situated in the heart of the Born, which George remembers as “never being that trendy”, this open-plan loft was the working studio of Catalan painter Joan Miró between 1917 and 1919. On the floor lay the original floorboards that would have once been splattered with paint by the great artist. And, in fact, the general shape of the space hasn’t changed since Miró’s days and can still be easily recognised from certain illustrations in books about the artist. The apartment still exudes artistic temperament. The space is warm and charismatic, decoratively cluttered with interesting items, from retro Apple Macs (in abundance), to part of a stained-glass window from the Palau de la Música. The home reflects the owners’ artistic flair. The walls of the lounge are painted in striking red and yellow, and a heavy duty set of scales retrieved from the streets now serve as a telephone seat.

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e contains eserved

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The original floorboards which would have once been splattered with paint by the artist.

George first moved into this apartment in 1987. He remembers the area as a very different Born to the one we know now. “The place was pretty empty, and actually full of junkies. Being here now, the area has become so trendy, but you can’t beat the location, it’s close to everything,” he says. The couple have a second home in Sant Quirze de Besora, 100 kilometres out of Barcelona, which they stay in every other week to escape the noise of the city. However, there’s no place like home, and this international family love passing their days in this little piece of Barcelona history.

George’s passion: As a computer tech his collection of retro Apple computers is an eyecatching feature of the open-plan lounge.

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CULTURE 13

SECRET

DINING Get in on the new trend as we stay in to eat out in Barcelona. Text and photos by Amanda Astramowicz.

MORE INFO. Project Codols 16 To make a reservation, email projectcodols16@gmail.com or visit www.facebook.com/projectcodols16 Listen to Pepe Arias perform with his voice, cello, synthesisers and drum machines. www.pepearias.comww.pepearias.com

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ou may have already heard a thing or two about ‘secret dinners’, the latest trend in eating out. Already booming in New York, this pop-up restaurant concept invites you to dine in the homes of perfect strangers, enjoy delicious homemade cuisine and share a unique experience with people you’ve never met before. It’s an alternative approach to an intimate dinner party or supper-club-style dinner out and referred to by some as the “Airbnb for hungry people”. Project Codols 16 in Barcelona has taken the idea and made it even more exceptional. Four clever individuals have come together to design the ultimate secret dining experience. Lucy Beckwith from the UK has opened the doors to her enormous, historic flat in the Gótic, welcoming city dwellers, travellers, friends and strangers to indulge in a night of fine food, live music, art, and conversation. Lucy greets me at the door and takes me through an arched passageway where other guests are chit-chatting, and the amiable Dutch hostess Chloé Quellhorst immediately hands me a glass of chilled cava. Light jazzy music sets the ambience, and soon enough we are called inside where two, long and luxuriously-set tables are pushed together and dressed in white cloth. As we take our seats, Lucy reveals that the apartment is an unfinished work by Gaudí. In the open kitchen the chef works away alongside rows of plates on the countertop, just about ready to be served. Set up

in the corner is a makeshift stage, lit by dimmed blue and red spotlights and surrounded by vintage suitcases filled with wine bottles, synthesisers, a DJ setup and a cello. Wine and cava bottles are passed around the table as Argentinian resident chef Agustin Valinoti introduces himself and his wonderful dishes, both in English and Spanish. Highlights of the evening include Thai-style ceviche, homemade ravioli with lamb stuffing and truffle sauce, and a dessert strawberry soup topped with mint, crème fraîche, and caramelised bananas. The seven-course menu is scribbled onto pages of 1970s erotica magazines, which also serve as great conversation starters. “It’s unique in the sense that it’s personal but then again not so. It’s like having dinner at a friend of a friend’s, yet it doesn’t feel like you’re sitting in someone’s living room,” says diner Edger Meij, 32, who is from Amsterdam and has lived in Barcelona for over a year. As we talk, singer and musician Pepe Arias from Chile pours his heart out, performing his original music, switching between classical cello and synthesisers. As the soirée comes to an end, envelopes are carefully placed in front of each diner where we leave our contributions for the evening. The lights dim down and Pepe Arias performs his touching single, ‘Siempre Quiere Más’ followed by a highenergy electronic set, ending an unforgettable evening on a suitably high note.

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FEATURE

Going it alone A growing number of foreigners are setting up shop in Barcelona. By Esther Jones. Photos by Lee Woolcock.

espite its 2,500 hours of annual sunshine, Spain has been living under a dark cloud for the last six years. The crisis has left the country's social and economic fabric in tatters and today’s statistics make for sober reading: unemployment stands at 26 percent; 57 percent of under 25s are out of work, and two million Spaniards have left the country in search of greener pastures. Anyone who lives in the centre of Barcelona will have witnessed scores of demonstrations by public sector workers against government cuts. The private sector has not fared any better and, even as the green shoots of recovery poke gingerly through, 180 companies shut their doors for good every day: in 2013, for every three companies that were started, one closed down. And yet, despite this gloomy backdrop, new businesses do keep opening. Last year, in Barcelona alone, 13,593 new companies were created—nearly 15 percent more than in 2013. So who are these gutsy folk, confident that they can tackle the economy head on? What motivates them to invest their time, money and energy in such an unforgiving landscape? While Catalunya is Spain's second most entrepreneurial community after Madrid, it turns out that an increasing number of these new business owners are foreigners. The national 'entrepreneurial rate' (the number of people per 100 who set up their own business) stands at 5.8, which is one of the lowest in Europe. Among Spain's foreign resident population the figure stands at a much healthier 11.0. Eva Cabré runs Cabré & Associats, a company that offers accountancy and legal services, and has noticed a big increase in the number of foreigners knocking on her door. Currently 80 percent of the businesses they set up are for foreign clients, mostly British, American, Australian and Scandinavian. “For these entrepreneurs, the quality of life that Barcelona has to offer is the key factor behind their decision to set up shop here,” says Eva. And, indeed, despite the recession and the daily dose of doom and gloom from the media, Barcelona as a business destination is apparently just as attractive as ever. In the UN-habitat State of the World’s Cities 2012-2013 report, Barcelona ranked fifth city in the world for life quality and urban prosperity. It has also topped the Cushman & Wakefield's European Cities Monitor report as the best European city in which to live for 14 consecutive years. Tourism is booming—2014 is expected to see a 10 percent rise in visitors—and the city is one of the top centres for international conferences in Europe. Business coach Edward Hamilton agrees that most people go it alone in Barcelona because they either want to move here or stay here. Edward has worked with many English-speaking business owners over the last few years and says

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that the loss of job stability, reductions in salaries and long and unpredictable working hours have led many people to conclude that life as their own boss may be easier. In fact, rather than being scared away by the recession, most new entrepreneurs see it as a time of opportunity. Local spending power may be low, but so are rents, salaries and other key costs. Edward reckons that trends here are usually several years behind the US, so if you can find a good idea that's working elsewhere, Barcelona could be the ideal location to set up. His own business, that he opened in 2013, is a good example of this. Lava Locker offers a 24-hour laundry and dry-cleaning service. You just drop your laundry at one of their lockers around town, pay by credit card and pick it up, washed and ironed, the next day. Edward's experience, both with clients and in his own venture, is that it's easy to stand out here by offering something new or just better, "Although ideas can take a little longer to stick here, there's very little competition, so lots of opportunity for importing ideas," he says. So, just how easy is it to set up a company in Spain? Both Edward and Eva are adamant that any new business owner must have a good professional on board to steer them through the paperwork, and with good reason. Despite some recent simplification of the process, Spain is still a notoriously difficult place in which to start a business. In the World Bank's Doing Business 2013 report it ranked an astonishing 142nd out of 185 countries for "Ease of setting up a business", sandwiched between Fiji and West Bank and Gaza. Although there has been plenty of rhetoric from the government about improving life for emprendedores, it seems that entrepreneurs are not enjoying the kind of support afforded to them in other countries. In 2013, in an attempt to redress the balance, the government passed its new Ley de Emprendedores, a piece of legislation that aims to stimulate entrepreneurial activity across the board. The changes include a reduction in the monthly autónomos fee, new fiscal incentives, access to training programmes and simplification of the process of setting up a business. Yet it seems local business people are far from happy with the government's efforts. According to the 2013 Observatorio de Clima Emprendedor—an annual study by software company Sage that takes the pulse of the country's entrepreneurs—89 percent believe the government does not provide sufficient support to new businesses. And in March this year, local small business association PIMEC, along with 1,400 local businesses and freelancers, took to Barcelona's streets to protest against policies which they consider harmful to their sector. Among the most damaging, it cites high social security costs, increasing fiscal pressure and excessively frequent labour and tax inspections.

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FEATURE 15

éi

Valerie aubert pietri - Apocapoc

“Although ideas can take a little longer to stick here, there's very little competition, so lots of opportunities for importing ideas." Edward Hamilton, business coach and entrepreneur

French trio Valérie Aubert Pietri (38), Sebastien Détroyat (43) and Fabien Francheschini (43) set up eco-friendly co-working space Apocapoc in December 2013. The three own a documentary production company based in Paris and specialise in sustainable development topics. They moved to Barcelona in 2010, feeling this was the perfect place to launch their project. The sluggish housing market translated into lower-priced rental space, and the unstable labour market into many more freelancers and small companies in need of an alternative to office space. They also loved the lifestyle here and wanted to become more involved, “It was a way for us to get rooted and to start interacting properly and nicely with the local culture and people," says Valérie. The Apocapoc founders had several challenges to overcome. Finding professionals with experience in eco-renovation proved difficult, as most were expensive and focussed on more corporate-type projects. In the end, they did a lot of the work themselves, along with an architect and construction team. They also found the bureaucracy hard to negotiate and getting all their papers in order was a long, complicated and costly process. “Coming from France where a lot has been done to facilitate and foster entrepreneurship in the last 15 years, we found that all the processes are more complicated and bureaucratic and involve many more intermediaries,” Valérie says. Selecting the right people to work with, from lawyers to accountants and bank managers is further complicated when you are not familiar with local business ways. “You need to check everything more carefully, which can take time away from your core business,” she adds. And the advantages? They’ve found people to be friendly, open to change and genuinely interested in the project. The founders of Apocapoc took advantage of Barcelona Activa’s services and suggest that anyone looking to set up a business here does the same. What other advice would Valérie give? “To have lunch late, to be patient, to speak Spanish, to understand Catalan and more seriously to keep away from intermediaries and do more themselves. And of course, we'd say one or two Catalan boyfriends or girlfriends, a good network, a smiley attitude and a good sunscreen!” www.apocapocbcn.com

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FEATURE

Maybe it's the lack of inside knowledge that makes foreigners more likely to set up in business here; if they knew what lay ahead, they might think twice about giving up their day job. Certainly, Edward cites tax obligations and bureacracy as one of his clients' biggest headaches. For Eva, this is exacerbated by the lack of support provided by government offices in English. Other challenges that foreign business owners share with their Spanish counterparts are: keeping their workforce happy and productive in a country that has a poor record for employee-employer relations and, for many first-timers, acquiring the plethora of new skills needed to run a business venture. If they are new in town, a foreigner may also have cultural and language hurdles to overcome. “I’ve seen many foreigners pay inflated prices for traspasos or rents, not knowing the going rates or underrating their negotiating power,” says Eva. So, what help is available locally for budding business people? The Ajuntament-funded Barcelona Activa offers a huge amount of resources to entrepreneurs and new business owners, including startup advice, individualised coaching and an extensive training programme. Like their other services, training sessions are free of charge and cover pretty much everything you'll need to get off the ground, from business skills, such as negotiating and managing people, to preparing a business plan and financial planning. One of their most useful services is guiding novices through that intimidating first hurdle of creating a company. Edward took advantage of this service when he set up Lava Locker and he recommends it highly to anyone alarmed at the prospect of a complicated papertrail of indecipherable goverment forms. Once you're up and running, the seminars and networking opportunities that Barcelona Activa run are an effective way to keep learning and meeting likeminded souls.

Jonny Biggins - The Book of Everyone Until a year ago Jonny Biggins (45) was a creative for an advertising agency. He travelled widely for his work but has called Barcelona home since 2002. In 2013, he and fellow creatives, Steve Hanson (45) and Jason Bramley (43), gave up their jobs and launched The Book of Everyone. "The planets lined up. We had the idea, the timing was perfect with exciting new technologies driving personalisation across the world and we had a great network of amazing artists and writers to help create the content," says Jonny. This personalised and beautifully-designed 50-page book is created via their website around anyone you want in just a few seconds. Each book is a celebration of the individual stuffed full of interesting facts, strange statistics and curveball miscellany. According to Jonny, the recession was the driving force behind setting up the business, "Rather than be the last person to turn the lights out in the downsizing of the traditional advertising industry, we wanted to be at the forefront of new technology that could capitalise on the personalisation trend that was sweeping the globe." One of their biggest challenges was web development, an area in which they had very little experience. None of them had ever run a business before either, meaning they had to learn a lot of new skills. "We had to step out of our comfort zone and learn fast without making too many mistakes," Jonny explains. One of the reasons they love Barcelona is for its creativity and the opportunities it affords. "Barcelona is a melting pot of creativity so it’s great for us as we’re always on the hunt for new designers, photographers, writers and artists to keep the book fresh," says Jonny. He sees financial advantages and disadvantages to setting up in Barcelona. It is certainly cheaper than other major cities, and a web-based business can be built much more economically. On the other hand, there are less attractive investment schemes for both entrepreneurs and investors than in London, for example. For Jonny, a passion for what you're doing is essential, "Make sure you’re in it for the right reasons. You have to love what you do because the hours are long and each day there’s a new challenge you never saw coming." And his final advice? "Make it happen".

10 tips for new entrepreneurs By Edward Hamilton

1) Work on a strategic plan. Ask yourself if your business is feasible and how you would go about making it successful. Devise a plan that will guide you during your start-up phase. A full business plan is only needed if you are looking to raise capital or seek a business partner. 2) Think positive but plan for the worst. Take your sales expectations, half them and delay them by a year. Can you still survive? Cash flow is the biggest killer for start-ups in the first two years. 3) Research your competitors. Every business has competition so find out which is yours. Then research them and create your unique selling position— why clients should buy from you and not your competitors. 4) Build your network. The bigger your network the better your chances of success. Networking is an under-valued tool, especially in Barcelona. Go along to events, join co-working communities and be active in the social networks like LinkedIn and Meetup. 5) BarcelonaActiva is a great resource. BarcelonaActiva have great sessions on what it means to be autónomo in Spain and will give free help to set up your S.L. too (this is a big saving). 6) Remember: Income minus Costs = Profits or Losses. Understand your costs. You don't have to be a financial whizz, but it is important that you understand how much you need to make to be profitable. 7) Celebrate your first sale. Starting a business is fun but challenging, so celebrate every milestone as it will make you remember why you are doing it. It's a journey, so enjoy the ride. 8) Investigate the help options available. Enisa.es is the government investment fund for start-ups. There are also many business angels and incubators in Barcelona. 9) My favourite networking tip—it works every time. Move past the awkward entrance: Stick your hand out and say "Hello my name is Edward, what is your name" after their response ask "what do you do, [Roger]?"—well done you are networking and someone is talking to you! 10) Look to give more than you take. It comes back in spades. Good luck.

www.thebookofeveryone.com

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GUIRI BUSINESS DRINK NETWORKING JUNE 2014 Free Drink & Tapas

18th June For more information and to RSVP please visit www.GuiriBusiness.com

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Guiri Business Group is a LinkedIn community of 6000 + members designed to facilitate professional networking through the exchange of information, knowledge, contacts, jobs and opportunities.

Entrance is free for Guiri Business LinkedIn members and an RSVP is required to attend.

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FEATURE

The best way to learn about the highs and lows is, of course, from someone who has trodden that path before. Australian native Mandy Keillor set up Studio Australia Barcelona in 2006, shortly before her 40th birthday. She had visited the city many years before and vowed to come back to live here. The health and wellness centre that she runs with her partner Natalia offers a range of treatments and alternative health practices, such as pilates, osteopathy, physiotherapy and massage. Mandy is positive about the effects that operating through the crisis has had on her and the business. “The recession has made our business better and my partner and I better business people. We’ve had to look outward and be more global.

“The recession has made our business better and my partner and I better business people. Mandy Keillor, Studio Australia Barcelona We’ve had to use technology and become much more competitive in our approach to business. It has been difficult but I think that we’re richer for the experience,” says Mandy. She points to the very different attitudes to small business and the general lack of entrepreneurs in Spain, “In Australia we even have a small business Minister.” Her advice to any small business owner is there are many oppportunities out there if you’re willing to stick at it. And, of course, to get a good lawyer and accountant.

RESOURCES Government organisations Barcelona Activa: www.barcelonactiva.cat Catalunya Emprèn: www.catalunyaempren.gencat.cat Advisors Edward Hamilton: Business coach www.freegreenbeans.com Cabré i Associats: Accountancy and lawyer www.cassessors.com Spain Accounting: English-speaking accountants www.spainaccounting.com Sanchez Molina: Business lawyers www.sanchezmolina.com Victor Sánchez Vaqué: Business lawyer vsanchez@icab.cat Networking groups Guiri Business: Monthly networking evenings www.guiribusiness.com The Business Lunch: Monthly lunches in English www.thebizlunch.com Bcnin: Barcelona-based online business community www.bcnin.com Barcinno: Online community for tech startups www.barcinno.com

Aisling MACKIN - Tutti Frutti Aisling Mackin (37) and her husband Des Mackin (39) moved to Barcelona three years ago from Dublin with their now five-year-old son. They initially came for Des' work, but fell in love with the city and decided to stay with a view to opening their own business. "My husband and I wanted to be our own bosses. We worked for private companies most of our careers and at this junction of our lives we wanted to be self employed," says Aisling. Using their experience in sales and marketing and Aisling's passion for fitness, they explored many different business ideas, before opening the first European franchise of Tutti Frutti, a frozen yoghurt brand that is hugely successful in the US. The self-service “froyo joint” offers a delicious and healthy alternative to ice cream and includes dairy and gluten free options. Although they had some worries about opening during the recession, they felt that the opportunities such timing offered and Barcelona's huge tourist market would offset the disadvantages. “Our biggest challenge initially was finding the right location, which we eventually tracked down on Pl. Universitat,” says Aisling. And the store is a bright and welcoming 80 square-metre corner spot, with a small terrace, just by the university. The couple found Barcelona Activa's help useful with the inevitable paperwork trail, "Things seem to take some time to get done but eventually they are,” says Aisling. Her advice to a startup is to invest the time into getting it right. "There are no short cuts. Get the product/service 100 percent right first, then scale," she says. She also agrees that getting good legal and accountancy professionals on board is essential. The couple’s first year has been challenging in other ways too, as they opened the business when Aisling was seven months pregnant. Yet, despite sleepless nights and some complicated juggling between family and work, Aisling and Des are clearly very happy with the choice they made. Aisling recognises that being foreign does have its challenges, and you need to make a lot of effort to really understand how the market works. However, she adds, "Being a bit different is good. People remember you." www.tfyogurt.es

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20 culture

0 EDITOR’S PICK

PEDRALBES FESTIVAL

June 12th to July 10th. Jardins del Palau Reial de Pedralbes. Av. Diagonal 686. www.festivalpedralbes.com. After a successful first run, the Festival de Música de Barcelona has announced its second edition this year. Hosted in the lush gardens of the Palau Reial de Pedralbes, this has to be Barcelona’s smartest festival, complete with cava tastings and Michelin-starred caterers. The concert programme is a wonderfully eclectic mix of genres, from folk-rock fusion and indie to purist jazz and flamenco. This year’s big acts include Tom Jones, Blondie, Kool & the Gang, Simple Minds, Kevin Costner, Paul Anka and John Newman. Start the evening with a pre-dinner promenade among bougainvilleas, pines and cedars, then head into the palace for a €75 tasting menu created by chef brothers Javier and Sergio Torres. If you’re not planning to push the boat out quite that far, then sandwiches and snacks are also available. Concert prices range from €15 to €280.

POOL PARTIES

June 12th to 15th. FACT Music Pool Series. Av. Manuel Azaña 21-23. Hospitalet. L’Atlàntida Barcelona. Dolores Ibarruris s/n. Sant Adrià de Besòs. www.fact-worldwide.com Whether you’re an electronic music junkie looking for an alternative to the frenzy of the Sónar festival, or just an avid open-air pool party devotee, rest assured, this month you’ll have plenty of opportunities to dip those toes into cool, blue waters. The OFF Week has become increasingly popular with its extensive programme of events that run alongside Europe’s most sought-after electronic music festival. From June 12th to the 15th, FACT will be hosting pool parties that feature the greatest DJs on the planet and some of today’s most influential recording labels. These events will not just take place at one pool oasis, but two! FACT Music Pool Series and L’Atlàntida will be showcasing world renowned artists including Luciano, Adam Beyer, Anja Shneider, Miss Kittin, Jamie Jones, Ellen Allien, Nic Fanciulli and many more. Visit the FACT website for ticket information.

BAD RELIGION

June 18th, 7.30pm. Razzmatazz. Almogàvers 121. Formed in Los Angeles in 1979 by a group of high-school students, Bad Religion is one of the longest-standing punk rock bands around. Their 35-year career has seen the release of no less than 18 albums and several line-up changes, although the current band includes three of the four original members. Over the last couple of years they’ve added more heavy-metal tones to their unique sound of soaring vocal harmonies and guitar solos. Barcelona fans will have the chance to hear their widely-acclaimed album True North, which was released last year.

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SÓNAR June 12th-14th. Fira Montjuïc & Fira Gran Via de L’Hospitalet. www.sonar.es Founded in 1994 as the Festival of Advanced Music and Multimedia Art, Sónar has become an essential event on the European festival calendar and a meeting point for electronic music lovers from all over the continent. With a massive 80,000 visitors each year, Sónar turns Barcelona into the continent’s epicentre of electronic music, transforming the city’s dynamics and atmosphere. This year’s list of artists includes Massive Attack, Richie Hawtin, Boys Noize, Rudimental, Trentemøller, Todd Terje, Caribou, and many more favourites. Sónar by Day showcases concerts and DJs, as well as the new Sónar+D area—an open laboratory for the creative industries and the official meeting point for visionaries, developers and entrepreneurs, as well as record labels, distributors, publishers and promoters. Sónar by Night is where you’ll find the big names. A complete three-day pass costs €195. View the website for other pass prices and more information.

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culture 21

1st. TY segall A night of garage rock by this American multi-instrumentalist and vocalist based in Los Angeles. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 3rd. The Pains of Being Pure At Heart This New York quintet are one of the latest sensations in noise pop and indie. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 5th. Sean Nicholas Savage The Montreal-based recording artist marries the universal themes of love and pain with lush harmonies and hypnotic rhythms. Antiga Fàbrica Estrella Damm. Rosselló 515. 7TH. nervo Australian sisters Mim and Liv Nervo have become one of the most sought-after acts in dance music. Teatre Barts. Av. Paral.lel 62. 11TH. bicep This DJ duo from Belfast are the first port of call for those searching for cutting-edge and hard-to-find disco (nu and old). Razzmatazz. Almogàvers 122. 13TH. miley cyrus Miley Cyrus includes Barcelona as one of her pit stops of the ‘Bangerz Tour’ with the hit singles ‘We Can’t Stop’ and ‘Wrecking Ball’. Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7. 14TH. buika Singer Concha Buika is acclaimed by critics and the public for her flamenco, rhythm and blues, afrocuban and jazz-infused style. Jardins del Palau de Pedralbes. Av. Diagonal 686. 19th. Caspian The American instrumental post-rock band from Beverly, Massachusetts travels to Europe one last time before writing their next album. Apolo - La [2]. Nou de la Rambla 111. 16TH. John Newman The English soul/pop singer and musician was named one of the most successful British singers of 2013. He’s best known for the track ‘Love Me Again’. Jardins del Palau de Pedralbes. Av. Diagonal 686. 23rd. Todd Terry The American DJ, producer and remixer blends the sounds of classic disco, the Chicago sound, and elements of hip-hop. Carpe Diem / CDLC. Pg. Maritim de la Barceloneta 32. 25TH. Simple minds A retrospective of their 35-year career as one of Britain’s most successful bands. Jardins del Palau de Pedralbes. Av. Diagonal 686. 26TH. KOOL & THE GANG A blend of powerful funk and jazzy arrangements have transformed this group into one of the most sampled bands in history. Jardins del Palau de Pedralbes. Av. Diagonal 686. 30TH. tom jones Since his appearance on the music scene in the mid-sixties, the Welsh singer has interpreted all kinds of styles, from pop to rock, and country to funk. Jardins del Palau de Pedralbes. Av. Diagonal 686.

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22 culture

0 editor’s pick

docfield>14

Until July 31st. www.docfieldbarcelona.org. More than 40 cultural centres, schools and galleries in the city have come together in collaboration with the Ajuntament to bring you the second edition of this colossal photography exhibition. DocField>14 aims to promote the importance and social value of documental photography and photojournalism. Until the end of July, Barcelona will be showcasing 50 exhibitions in venues all over the city, all of which are free of charge. The 2014 edition is now more extensive as it also boasts several new formats including temporary displays on the streets, various forms of public transport, and night screenings, as well as educational workshops for professionals and the general public. For more information on what’s on offer, or to download a location map, visit their website.

Painting and other stuff

Jerry James Marshall: Painting and Other Stuff. Until October 26th. Fundació Antoni Tapiès. Aragó 255. The American artist’s new exhibition at the Fundació Antoni Tàpies explores the questions of identity, with a particular focus on its racial contexts. It aims to address the AfricanAmerican status in the current socio-political situation. The exhibition includes paintings, drawings, photography, video and installations, and also contains Marshall’s personal collection of image cuttings depicting black representation in art and wider culture.

ON off

Antonio Samo: On Off Until June 22nd. Artevistas. Passatge del Crèdit 4. The Barcelona-based Argentinian artist presents his most recent collection of wooden sculptures this month at the Artevistas Gallery. The figures are inspired by real people in the artist’s daily life, and focus on the impact of social networks and popular culture on our self image. From their postures and vacant faces, to their identity-defying clothes, each character expresses the social group to which they belong and provokes curiosity to how they are regarded and how we regard ourselves.

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A big load

Sebastián Boesmi: A Big Load Until June 14th. Galeria Espai [b]. Torrent de L’Olla 158. Originally from Argentina, Sebastián Boesmi has gained international recognition throughout his career, and is currently showing his recent works as part of his second exhibition in this gallery in Gràcia until the middle of the month. His abstract canvases are an explosion of colour, lines and figures, and aim to run a fine line between reality and imagination— they are certainly pieces to contemplate.

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culture 23

recently opened Museu Picasso Pablo Picasso: Landscapes of Barcelona. Between 1895 and 1903 Barcelona was the focus of Picasso’s attention, and this collection of landscapes depicts the artist’s surroundings whilst he was learning to be an artist in the city. Until September. Montcada 15-23. MACBA Xavier Ribas. Nitrate. With this exhibition the MACBA investigates photography’s potential as a tool for re-reading recent history through themes that invite us to reflect on our immediate surroundings. Until October 12th. Plaça dels Àngels 1. CCCB BIG BANG DATA. The first installation of a series of projects that explores the intersections between science, technological innovation, culture and society. Until October 26th. Montalegre 5.

LAST CHANCE Galeria Trama Miguel Rasero, Collage. An exhibition centred around the theme of still life with the incorporation of bright, vivid colours and different compositional emphasis. Until June 14th. Petritxol 5. Caixa Forum Mediterráneo, del Mito a la Razón. A collection of 165 sculptures, mosaics, pieces of jewellery, and reliefs explains how travel in Europe over the ages has created wealth and awareness. Until June 15th. Francesc Ferrer I Guardia 6-8. MEAM Richard Macdonald, The First Twenty-Five. The American sculptor presents his bronze works after 25 years of studying dancers and acrobats, portraying his work as “the beauty of the human body and the spirit that drives it.” Until June 15th. Barra de Ferro 5. MACBA Motor of Modernity. This temporary exhibition analyses the impact and shock generated in Barcelona by the presence of Grup R, when they became a catalyst in both Catalan architecture and aesthetic culture for the recovery of a lost modernity in the years after the Civil War. Until June 24th. Plaça dels Àngels 1. Castell de Montjuïc Barcelona en Postguerra (1939-45). This project reflects on the changes the Catalan city underwent after the civil war, through five exhibitions consisting of a book presentation and a series of complementary activities to relive a historic period. Until June 30th. Ctra Montjuïc 66.

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24 culture

from the top

Barcelona Terrace Week. June 1st-8th. www.avistadhotel.cat. For one week in June, you can enjoy music, magic events and art exhibitions high above the city bustle. Hotels around Barcelona will be hosting cultural events on their terraces as part of Barcelona Terrace Week. The week-long programme aims to promote hotels to locals and to encourage people to make use of these spectacular but often overlooked spaces. Among the hotels taking part are the exclusive Barcelona Mandarin Oriental, W Barcelona and the Grand Hotel Central. Feel like a five-star tourist: take a dip in the pool, lounge on the deck and nibble on some tasty food whilst seeing the city from a new perspective. During the week there will be a photography competition hosted by A Vista d’Hotel looking for the best shots from the many viewpoints.

0 editor’s pick

extreme sports Image credit Adrià Fontanet

Extreme Barcelona. June 28th-29th. Parc del Fòrum. Rbla de Prim 2. www.extremebarcelona.com One of the world’s top extreme sports events comes to Barcelona later this month. Extreme Barcelona will host this weekend of skateboard, BMX, scooter and many more urban sport competitions. Alongside the main events there will be plenty of activities going on. In the open bike park aficionados can show off their tricks on the many ramps, safe in the knowledge that even the riskiest of stuntmen will be caught by a huge air bag. For those who prefer the open water, Extreme Barcelona has designed a wake park for water sports, including wakeboarding and flyboarding. Kids also have their place at the extreme sports festival with safe open spaces to introduce them into the world of urban sports, with mini ramps and modules all specifically designed to maintain the safety of even the smallest participants. Music will entertain fans throughout the weekend with bands and DJs taking to the stage, and the Brand Village will be home to all the best extreme sports equipment and apparel. Day passes are available from €15.

business minded

Biz Barcelona. June 4th-5th. Fira de Barcelona. Avda. Reina Maria Cristina. www.bizbarcelona.com. Biz Barcelona is a huge business event for entrepreneurs and small businesses with an innovative and dynamic format. Now in its third edition, the enterprise fair will host 120 presentations with 150 speakers over two-days. There will be six trade show areas to visit, ranging from e-commerce to franchise and export areas and, most importantly, a section devoted to financing, cooperation and networking. It’s a unique chance for entrepreneurs to reach out to larger companies to launch new products and pitch their ideas. The conference brings solutions for the creation, growth and internationalisation of companies and business projects. Biz Barcelona offers a bench-mark event to network and share knowledge with other business-minded people. Tickets for the event are €12 from (website) and €15 at the event.

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culture 25

rainbow colours

Gay Pride Barcelona. June 19th-29th. Plaça de Espanya. www.pridebarcelona.org. Get ready for a wave of colour to hit the city. Now in its sixth year, Barcelona Pride is revving up to host the Mediterranean’s most important LGBT pride festival. Charities, local businesses and the LBGT community have united to offer 10 days of culture, sports, debate, entertainment and parties. Most events take place on Avenida Reina Maria Cristina and include the stiletto and drag races on Friday 27th, which are followed by a huge foam party. The main parade leaves from the Tres Xemenies park on Parallel on Saturday 28th at 6pm and will make its way along Parallel to Pl. d’Espanya. Other activities will be ongoing from June 19th. Check the website for the programme.

Sant joan

Sant Joan 2014. June 23rd-24th. The explosive summertime Catalan festival is back for another year. The shortest night of the year becomes the loudest with the constant crackling of firecrackers and the electric atmosphere drawing everyone down to the streets and the beaches. Bonfires will be blazing all along Barceloneta beach, where most of Barcelona heads to eat, drink, dance and watch the fireworks, and with the public holiday the following day there’s no excuse not to enjoy the festivities until late. If you’re not in the mood for squashing onto the beach, head up to Montjuïc with a blanket and picnic to enjoy the many firework displays from the higher viewpoint by the castle. Many of the beach clubs will be hosting parties for the evening. A truly fiery Catalan festival to welcome the summer.

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MOSTRA INTERNACIONAL DE FILMS DE DONES Films directed by women.

Mostra sonora i visual Multidisciplinary festival of image and sound artists.

BARCELONA DESIGN WEEK Two weeks of talks, exhibitions and activities.

loop video art festival Screenings and activities around the city. June 1st-7th.

THE BLUES PRISONERS Blues concert. 8.30pm. La Báscula-Metrònom Bar. Carrer del Foc 128. Free entry.

bizbarcelona Trade fair for entrepreneurs. Until June 5th. Fira de Barcelona. Pl. d’Espanya.

LA VALQUIRIA Last day to see Wagner’s opera. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.

The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee

Play by Jocular Theatre. June 1st-8th. 8.30pm. IEN. Via Augusta 123.

THURSDAY

WEDNESDAY

TUESDAY

MONDAY

THE METAMORPHOSIS BY FRANZ KAFKA Projection of the film by The Quay Brothers with pianist Mikhaïl Rudy.

LET’S GROOVE Funk and jazz with 4the Frank. 8.30pm. Casa Elizalde. València 302.

FRIDAY

HAVANERES Singing of sea shanties brought back from Cuba by Catalan sailors.

LA FESTA CATALANA Demonstration of Esbart, a Catalan dance. 7.30pm. Av. de la Catedral.

SATURDAY

MATINEE SUMMER FESTIVAL DJs and waterpark fun.

la pedrera SUMMER NIGHTS Rooftop jazz with Jazz Ensemble Taller de Músics. 9.45pm. La Pedrera. Provença 261.

EURO GARAGE Secondhand market. 11am-8pm. Zamora 78.

TAMBORINADA Children’s activities and games. Parc de la Ciutadella.

BALLET GITANO Joaquin Cortés’ acclaimed flamenco show. 6.30pm. Teatre Tivoli. Casp 8.

SUNDAY

What's onJune 2014

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See page 25.

HAPPY VeRbenA De sAnt JoAn!

FestIVAL De LA cIencIA Activities for adults and children. June 2nd-20th. Palau de la Virreina. La Rambla 99.

DInneR UnDeR tHe stARs Dining and stargazing. 8.30pm. Observatori Fabra. Tibidabo. Every Tues-Sat. www.fabra.cat

MostRA sonoRA I VIsUAL Multidisciplinary festival of image and sound artists. June 2nd-7th. Convent Sant Agustí. Comerç 36.

For more information visit our website www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

JoHn neWMAn Festival Jardins de Pedralbes. 10pm. Av. Diagonal 686.

MARKY RAMone’s bLItzKRIeG A fast and furious set by the last Ramone standing. 8pm. Music Hall. Rbla de Catalunya 2.

bARceLonA DesIGn WeeK Two weeks of talks, exhibitions and activities. Until June 14th. Disseny Hub Barcelona. Pl. Glories 37-38.

Augusta 123.

sonAR The city’s biggest electronic music festival starts today. See page 22. Until June 14th.

JAzz JAM sessIon 7.45pm. Jazz Sí Club. Requesens 2.

KooL & tHe GAnG Part of the Festival de Pedralbes. See page 20. cHARLes AznAVoUR Master of the French chanson. 9pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.

sIMPLe MInDs Part of the Festival de Pedralbes. See page 20. FADFest Inauguration of exhibition of the best designs of the year. Disseny Hub Barcelona. Pl. Glòries Catalanes 37.

cARMen, cARMen, cARMen Homage to Carmen Amaya. 9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

MInIGRec InAUGURAL PARtY Fun and games for the family. 5pm-8pm. Teatre Grec.

MAARten sWAAn & MeLoU Marula Cafe. Escudellers 49.

tRobADA D’HAVAneRes 9.15pm. Av. Joan de Borbó.

GAY PRIDe PARADe 6pm. Parc Tres Xemenies. Paral. lel. See page 25.

tHe tRoJAn HoRse & LIttLe HeLen Puppet show for children. 6pm. La Puntual. Allada Vermell 15.

sWInG sessIon At tHe MnAc Just turn up and dance. 5pm-7pm. Palau Nacional. Parc de Montjuïc.

nIGHt RUn RIGHt A 10k nighttime run at the port. 11.45pm. www.cursadelportdebarcelona. com

FAct MUsIc PooL seRIes See page 22. Until June 12th-15th

MILeY cYRUs Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7. tHe InQUIsItIVe MIDDLe Dance with music by James Holden. Mercat de les Flors. Lleida 59.

HAVANERES Singing of sea shanties brought back from Cuba by Catalan sailors. 9pm. Magic Fountain. Montjuïc.

7.30pm. Av. de la Catedral.

tHe MetAMoRPHosIs bY FRAnz KAFKA Projection of the film by The Quay Brothers with pianist Mikhaïl Rudy. 8.30pm. CCCB. Montalegre 5.

AMeLIe AnGebAULt QUARtet Jazz, rockabilly and swing. 10pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

DAnnY PADILLA FAMILY LoVe Opening of exhibition. Centre d’Arts Santa Mónica. La Rambla 7.

DIeGo eL cIGALA Legendary flamenco singer. 9.30pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

GUIRI bUsIness DRInK Networking event sponsored by Metropolitan. 7pm-9pm. Cinco Jotas. Las Arenas.

zUbIn MeHtA Opening night of the Festival Jardins de Pedralbes. 10pm. Av. Diagonal 686.

DAtA cUIsIne Workshop about data and gastronomy. CCCB. Montalegre 5.

LooP VIDeo ARt FestIVAL Screenings and activities around the city. June 1st-7th. www.loop-barcelona.com

MostRA InteRnAcIonAL De FILMs De Dones Films directed by women. June 4th-8th. La Filmoteca. Pl. de Salvador Seguí 1.

entry.

LA FURA DeLs bAUs Opening the Grec Festival with their new “smart show”. 10pm. Castell de Montjuïc.

See page 24.

eXtReMe bARceLonA June 28th-29th.

Rob zoMbIe Hard rock. 7pm. Sant Jordi Club. Pg. Olímpic 5-7.

PIKnIc eLectRonIK Music, food and kids’ activities. Every Sunday during the summer. 1pm-10pm. Jardins Joan Brossa. Montjuïc.

tHe FAMILY RUn Six running circuits for the whole family, plus games and activities. From 9am. Av. Estadi de Montjuïc.

Do neW enseMbLe Free open-air concert. Part of ‘Vermut and jazz’ series. 1.15pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.

MAtInee sUMMeR FestIVAL DJs and waterpark fun. L’Illa Fantasia. Premia de Mar.

9.45pm. La Pedrera. Provença 261.

28 FEATURE

Bike

through centuries The Ronda Verde cycling route takes in beaches, countryside and plenty of history. Text and photo by Mary Reynolds.

Barcelona Loop—23 km The Barcelona loop of the Ronda Verde is still under construction, with sections missing between Carretera de les Aigües and the Rio Besós path. 1) Start on the Carretera de les Aigües in Collserola. To reach this dirt road, you can ride up the steep Avinguda Vallvidrera from Sarrià. Another option is to ride the funicular from Peu del Funicular to the Carretera de les Aigües. This dirt road skirts the edges of the hills, with spectacular views of the city, the port, and the Mediterranean. 2) Head west to Plaça de Mireia. You can stop for a coffee and admire the views of the Llobregat river valley and the forested hills of Collserola. 3) The Ronda Verde continues west and descends through old towns consumed by Barcelona’s expansion. You’ll soon reach a peaceful garden oasis called Parc de Can Boixeres tucked between apartment towers. Here, you will see a 17th-century farmhouse turned into a neoclassical palace in 1902, set in a Modernista garden with mosaic fountains and gazebos. 4) The route travels through less distinctive neighbourhoods on its way to the coast. At Gran Via, cyclists stay on the pavement, then cross south toward

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a bright red skyscraper. Completed in 2010, the Hotel Santos Porta Fira won several architecture awards for its exterior twisting design. From here your journey continues south until your final hill, Montjuïc, is in sight. 5) Montjuïc has a difficult history. On the southern flank of the hill, the 15thcentury castle housed political prisoners and served as a killing ground for most of its history, including during Franco’s dictatorship. At the base of Montjuïc, pass through a large tunnel where intrepid rock climbers may hang above you. Climb the road to the Olympic stadium for a free glimpse inside, and imagine it filled with cheering fans. 6) At last, the Ronda Verde descends to the waterfront and you pass the tall column of Christopher Columbus apparently pointing toward the new world, but in reality pointing toward northern Africa. Look north up La Rambla to see the hills of Collserola in the distance where your bike ride began. Continue on the sidewalk to the dockside restaurants of Barceloneta where a platter of paella is a perfect end to your Ronda Verde journey.

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FEATURE 29

ake a look inside Barcelona’s Olympic stadium and gaze at the Mediterranean sea from a 15th-century monastery—all on the Ronda Verde bike route. This bicycle beltway forms a figure of eight encircling Barcelona with one loop, and suburban Badalona with another loop. Just follow the green signs and green bikes painted on the street, bike lane or pavement. Ronda Verde maps are posted at major intersections so you can see where you are on the route.

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1 Badalona Loop

Bike Rentals & Tours Budget Bikes: www.budgetbikes.eu CicloTours: www.barcelonaciclotour.com/en Barcelona By Bike: www.bicicletabarcelona.com

Badalona Loop—28 km 1) To reach the Badalona loop, start from Barceloneta and ride along the beach path heading up the coast (east) toward the Parc del Fòrum and its massive solar panel. If riding along Barcelona’s busy beaches isn’t your style, take your bike on the metro to El Maresme-Fòrum station and start this loop from the Museu Blau. 2) As the beach ends, the Ronda Verde heads inland across the paved square next to the Museu Blau—Barcelona’s natural science museum. Mirrored panels on the building reflect the sky and give the illusion of transparency. Follow the green bike logo painted on the ground and head toward the tall Telefónica building. Turn right on the pavement by Avinguda Eduard Maristany. 3) Cross the Rio Besós into Badalona. From the bridge, you can see ducks and egrets in the estuary and the sea beyond. After the bridge, the path travels through an underpass with slogans on one side and animal paintings on the other. Ride toward the hills on the wide path in the Parc Fluvial del Besós—a welcome antidote to the urban industrial area. Pedal next to the lawn on the riverbank and watch out for rollerbladers. 4) At Passeig de Santa Coloma, take the Ronda Verde ramp away from the river to the suburban town of Santa Coloma de Gramanet. Keep your eyes open for markings on the brick sidewalks and street signs that indicate the route.

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Soon, you will ride uphill on a paved path separated from the street. Your destination: Parc de la Serralada de Marina. The park’s 3,000 acres roll toward the sea, and include vineyards and olive groves. 5) Get ready for more climbing: the route follows a dirt road through hills of oaks and pines toward the Monastery of St. Jerome in the Murta. In this 15th-century cloister, Christopher Columbus told King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella about his ‘discovery’ of North America. Check out the views of Barcelona’s Montjuïc in the west and the sea to the south. This marks highest point on the loop, it’s all downhill to the sea from here! 6) The Ronda Verde continues on the dirt road through clusters of ochre buildings and red tile roofs, passing small gardens and old barns. Soon, the route returns to paved paths and the streets on the north edge of Badalona. 7) After riding through an underpass beneath the busy main road, you reach the seaside path. Follow the green Ronda Verde signs and turn right to start your journey back to Barcelona. Rest on one of the many seaside benches facing the beach, or enjoy refreshments at a local café. Admire the yachts and sailboats as you cruise past the Badalona marina. Continue west through Badalona, cross the Rio Besós bridge, ride past Museu Blau, and return to Barceloneta via the beach path.

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30 FEATURE

Vermouth’s new golden age

Head to one of Barcelona’s many vermut bars and enjoy the revival of this trend that goes far deeper than what’s in the glass. Text and photos by Sam Zucker

f you live in Barcelona and enjoy drinking during daylight hours, it is nearly impossible for the resurgence of the vermouth culture to have passed you by unnoticed. The humble drink has grown in popularity by leaps and bounds over the past couple of years, now infusing the web pages of practically every local guide, food blog, and gastro-tour agency with its distinct flavours. This simple, yet ultimately-refreshing, aromatic wine has now surpassed hamburger joints and bicycle shops as the newest business venture angling to capture the local market and tourist capital in one fell swoop. Commercial vermouth is, by definition, an aromatised and fortified wine, placing it soundly under the umbrella of aperitivos. The term aperitivo is derived from the Latin aperire, meaning ‘to open,’ and this family of bitter, semi-sweet, high-alcohol wines does just that—opens the palate and stimulates the appetite for the more substantial meal to come. Jose Antonio Moliner of the Gran Bodega del Maestrazgo explains, “Nearly all vermouth casero (home-style) starts as white wine. Generally weak in flavour, low in alcohol, and lacking proper structure, the base wine can be any varietal really. It doesn’t matter. What matters is the house-specific recipe and style from each cooperative.” After the base wine is selected, it is then fortified with alcohol (96 percent pure ethyl alcohol is often used, mainly as a stabiliser to keep the wine from turning to vinegar during the maceration process). Jose shares a telling fact: If the wine goes over 15 percent alcohol per volume, the state taxes you as if it were a spirit, not wine. To avoid paying higher taxes, people don’t make vermouth higher than 15 percent, or they fudge the details on the label. Next, the herbs, barks, roots, flowers, spices and other botanicals are added to the mix. “I wouldn’t dare,” Jose says, shaking his head and raising his hands defensively when I ask him to tip me off to just one main ingredient. “It’s all about the recipe,” he repeats. “No one is going to tell you anything.” Defeated, I am only left to speculate, though a quick search will tell you that juniper, ginger, citrus peel, cinnamon, cardamom, quinine, marjoram, and chamomile are some of the dozens of expressive additions to a typical vermouth recipe.

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As a reference, the Catalan brand Perruchi alone boasts some 56 plants in their well-guarded formula. At the same stage in which the plants are added to begin maceration, sugar is added as well—often caramelised—to balance both flavour and colour. “It’s hard to get a consistent colour with oxidation alone,” Jose explains. “So many people add the caramelised sugar to assure a consistent product.” Other additions to vermut casero could include bitter liqueurs like Picon, some gins, or even sherry (sweet or dry). “Really,” Jose says, “it’s about personal preference. Everyone has a different gusto.” After adding the specially-calculated dose of botanicals, vermut casero is usually macerated through gentle heating, either by mechanical means, or simply through “sun and serenity,” as they say (allowed to gently warm in the sun and oxidise). During industrial processing, brands like Martini and Rossi make their vermouth relatively quickly. A casero vermouth is macerated much longer—months instead of days. “The vermouth made for our shop by the cooperative in Tarragona is macerated for six months,” Jose explains. “I asked them to make it especially bitter, since that’s what I enjoy!” After the maceration process and filtration, some producers age the vermouth in oak for a period of crianza. “The important thing,” Jose stresses, “is that all vermouths are different; more of an expression of the maker than of the land on which the original grapes were grown. Five years ago, no one drank vermouth simply because the vermouth available was boring. Now we have artisanal products that actually gain a following.” In the burgeoning vermouth bars of Barcelona, one finds the sweetened, “red” variety (known as vermut negre in Catalan) at the core of this newly reborn phenomenon. However, vermouth has two distinct styles (with many, many variations): Sweet and Dry. When not being enjoyed straight-up or on the rocks, sweet vermouth is an indispensable component of the Manhattan cocktail (bourbon and sweet vermouth), as well as an integral part of my personal favourite, the Negroni (equal parts sweet vermouth, gin, and Campari, with an orange twist).

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Despite the existence of a handful of mass-produced Spanish vermouth brands (namely Yzaguirre and Perucchi, though the latter is a smaller-scale brand that actually falls somewhere between ‘commercial’ and ‘artisanal’), the majority of vermouth used in modern cocktail bars is still of Italian origin. The history of vermouth is not an exact timeline, but rather more an evolution of taste and production. The word vermouth itself comes from the German word for wormwood (wermut)—a formerly-key ingredient in aromatic wines throughout Europe and Asia dating as far back as 1500 BC. Originally used as a medicinal tonic, vermouth was first commercially produced around the end of the 18th century (1786) in Turin by Antonio Benedetto Carpano (namesake of the Carpano Antica Formula vermouth produced by distillery giant Fratelli Branca). However, it was Martini and Rossi-brand vermouth that really industrialised the drink’s production with their now-ubiquitous red-labeled bottle (hence the term ‘red’ vermouth referring generally to the sweet variety). By the end of the 19th century, vermouth production had exploded throughout Italy, as well as in France. In 1902, the booming trend of vermouth amongst Barcelona’s social elite was ultimately cemented with the grand opening of the fabled Café Torino, located at the corner of Passeig de Gràcia and Gran Vía de Les Corts Catalanes. Café Torino was an elaborate building designed by a veritable dream-team trifecta of Catalan modernist architects—Josep Puig i Cadafalch, Pere Falqués and Antoni Gaudí himself. The Italian founder of this iconic, vermouth-centric bar was Flaminio Mezzalama—Martini & Rossi brand representative for all of Spain. Though the cafe enjoyed immediate success and recognition as a key economic and cultural institution of Barcelona, that success was short-lived. The bar closed in 1911. Throughout the beginning of the 20th century and up until the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939), vermouth endured as a drinking tradition of the upwardly mobile and artistically leaning social classes. However, during the depression of the posguerra (post-war) period of 1939-1970, vermouth was instead embraced as a drink of the working-class. Blue collar labourers and fishermen would fer el vermut (do the vermouth) in the afternoon at no-frills bars and bodegas that served simple wine and vermut casero alongside traditional snacks in the bomb-scarred, seaside neighbourhood of Barceloneta. Bar Electricitat is an iconic bar in the Barceloneta, founded in 1908. A survivor of the Civil War, it’s an understated landmark worth visiting for some edible history and vermouth by the glass, or the bottle. Fast forward to 2014. When searching for the reasons behind the renewed, robust trend of the vermuteo, one should consider several motivating modern factors. Going hand-inhand with the youth of Barcelona’s passion for all things artisanal, economical and local, small-scale Catalan vermouth is excellently easy on the palate, as well as the wallet. Though a full meal out at lunchtime may be beyond the daily budgets of many, fer el vermut with friends is an affordable way to feed social needs while staving off hunger until your more modest lunch at home. However, as many may know, a Saturday afternoon vermouth can turn into an evening of many drinks and a full-blown meal in a flash. But it makes sense, since vermut casero goes perfectly with house-pickled anchovies, delicate confit tuna loin, marinated cockles and mussels, rustic fried potato chips, local olives, hard cheeses and the whole, salty cornucopia of cured meats and sausages that we all—especially the Catalans—crave. In Barcelona, vermouth bars come in all shapes, shadings and moods. They can be old-school, barebones dives and wine shops, or may appear as hipster bars that double as bookstores or sewing rooms. Conversely, they may stand as princely shrines to the finest Iberian products available, helmed passionately by the city’s most famous chefs as affectionate tributes to their vermouth-filled youth. As Barcelona’s neighbourhoods continue to swell with vermuteo options— some barrios already near bursting at the seams—I, for one, hope this trend will continue to evolve, improve, and expand onto the international drinking scene. May the world seize vermouth and run with it! For an aperitivo that is still unfairly judged, stereotyped, snubbed, and scorned by many, vermouth has prevailed, enjoying a wonderful cultural renaissance. As the idea of el vermut teases more and more palates—satisfying the endless quest and hunger for socialisation, satiation, and tradition throughout Catalunya—we have to acknowledge that maybe, just maybe, the concept itself is more important than what is actually in the glass. With varying recipes, prices and practices, vermouth bars of Barcelona offer something more than just a bittersweet afternoon elixir; they serve as place-holders for the leisure hours of yore that are in constant conflict with the increasing demands of modern life. In short, vermouth is a lifestyle—a delicious, tangy lifestyle that fits coastal Mediterranean living like a glove—and I suggest you try it on for size.

Vermouth bars come in all shapes, shadings and moods. They can be old-school, barebones dives and wine shops, or may appear as hipster bars that double as bookstores or sewing rooms.

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The best vermut in town Quimet i Quimet Carrer del Poeta Cabanyes 25 (Poble Sec) A small, friendly bar with standing room only and great tapas. La Pepita Còrsega 343 (Eixample) A lively, relatively small space with a largely Catalan clientele, serving inventive food without an ounce of pretension. Bodega 1900 Tamarit 91 (Poble Sec) Styled on a classic vermouth bodega, Albert Adrià’s Bodega 1900 offers exquisitely fresh tapas and great service. Bar Electricitat Sant Carles 15 (Barceloneta) This quintessential Spanish eatery in the heart of Barceloneta is known in the neighbourhood for its great house vermouth. Morro Fi Consell de Cent 171 (Eixample) A tiny restaurant with the best aperitivos in town. Be sure to ask for the Vermut Preperat. Bodega E. Marín Milà i Fontanals 72 (Gràcia) The Marín family have been serving excellent vermouth since 1916. Enjoy the authentic surroundings. Jai-Ca Ginebra 13 (Barceloneta) A loud, buzzing tapas bar with great seafood. Expect to queue at weekends. Gran Bodega del Maestrazgo Sant Pere Més Baix 90 (Born) This wine shop also has a tasting room where they sell vermouth by the glass, plus gourmet products.

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Community 33

ten years without shame

The protest that turned concrete into community. Text and photos by Amanda Astramowicz.

n the 1980s, the Barcelona city council began a contentious urban renewal process in the Casc Antic that involved expropiating and demolishing old buildings and relocating the families that lost their homes. In 1999, the demolition of a building in the Ribera district left a big hole full of debris that remained untouched for weeks. In protest at the forced removal of families and the demolition of buildings in the name of progress, residents of the area renamed the 5,000 square metre hole of rubble as El Forat de la Vergonya meaning, ‘The Hole of Shame’. The space, located between the streets of Sant Pere Més Baix, Metges, Jaume Giralt and Carders, occupies the central part of Santa Caterina and Sant Pere, two neighbourhoods that, along with the Born, make up La Ribera. After much turmoil between residents and authorities, the council finally agreed to cover the hole sooner rather than later. Originally, the plan was to transform it into a green area, but it was later reclassified to provide private parking spaces. Tensions continued to run high between residents and the council, as locals fought for a voice in the future of the space arguing it was not only the square at stake, but the entire neighbourhood. In 2004, five years after the demolition, the Ajuntament finally agreed to allow the residents to participate in the planning of the square. 2014 marks the tenth year anniversary of the demise and rebirth of this space, which is now a public square and self-managed by the community. The inhabitants of the district, together with squatters in the area, used the opportunity to plant fruit trees, build a community

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garden, place benches, a stage for entertainment, and football and basketball facilities. The community also manages concerts, meals and activities for children and adults. It has become the meeting point for a multicultural community. Now, instead of El Forat de la Vergonya it is more commonly known as the only true main square in the barri and is a point of reference when discussing the power of a neighbourhood’s residents. For more information about the history of El Forat de la Vergonya visit: deuanyssensevergonyes.org The urban community garden, L’Hortet del Forat, is self-managed and a free resource for organic gardening. A group of volunteers organise group gardening days which are free and open to anybody interested in agroecology, urban ecology, community projects and social transformation. The garden also holds meetings to address topics that include: improving the design of the garden, gardening hours, and other future activities and collaborations such as art exhibitions and concerts, as well as agricultural workshops and presentations. If you are encouraged to learn about gardening or feel like planting a few seeds of your own, you can contact elhortetdelforat@gmail.com or go directly to the garden and take a look at their bulletin board. There you can find information about current and future events that you can get involved in, or visit the blog: lhortetdelforat.blogspot.com.es www.facebook.com/hortetdelforat.huertourbanocomunitario

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34 TRAVEL

Coast Patrol Beat the crowds to the coast this month and experience the Costa Brava from another perspective, as Carol Moran leads us down a lesser-known, but well-beaten track. By Carol Moran

wo hundred and fifty five kilometres of remarkable Catalan coastline, encompassing a plethora of memorable landscapes, stretches from Blanes in the south to the French border in the north, and is collectively known as the Costa Brava—meaning rugged or wild coast. Christened so in 1908 by Catalan journalist Ferran Agulló, this name is personified by windswept rocky outcrops, sweeping forests, and jagged cliffs that conceal hidden paradisiacal bays. The Camí de Ronda (or ‘Costa Brava Way’) is a public footpath that traverses these rugged cliffs and picture-perfect calas all the way along the Costa Brava, presenting the perfect out-of-season adventure (or a welcome escape from the bustling beaches in summer) and the chance to discover the Catalan coast from a unique perspective. On the beaten track Dating from the 19th century, the Camíns de Ronda originated as a series of small pathways connecting one cove to the next, enabling fisherman, smugglers, sailors, travellers, lighthouse keepers and traginers (cart and mule drivers), to navigate this once remote coastal territory. During the 20th century, the path emerged as a key route for border control and was patrolled by the Guardia Civil, particularly during the post-war early-Franco period, when the country was in economic ruin, basics were running low and smuggling was rife. As time went on and the situation improved, path patrol ceased and the trail

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soon became dominated by the modern Spanish industrial power: tourism. Hosting sun-starved Northern Europeans since 1954, the Costa Brava has long been synonymous with package holiday tourism. Until the 1950s, however, when the Spanish government designated the area for development, this was a largely undiscovered expanse of beautiful landscapes, sparsely populated with quaint fishing villages dotted along the coast. During the latter half of the last century, tourism escalated wildly and coastal constructions diverted many parts of the original paths inland or rendered them impassable. Yet despite decades of overdevelopment, the area is still bursting with a natural beauty that has inspired many over the years. The gradual restoration of this historic hiking trail invites visitors to follow in the footsteps of the many heroes and villains, artists and dreamers who once roamed these parts, and become acquainted with another Costa Brava. A rugged ramble Spanning three comarcas in the province of Girona—Alt Empordà, Baix Empordà and Selva—the coastline owes its spectacular topographical features to the geological juncture of the Iberian Peninsula, the Mediterranean Sea and the Pyrenees, and can be roughly divided into two sections—north and south. The Catalan coastal mountain range, which runs parallel to the coast, sets the backdrop for the southern stretch between

Blanes and Pals, where tree-clad hills drop down to erratically-shaped rocky coves, crystal clear waters, secret sandy inlets and long golden beaches. Moving north, the landscape becomes progressively wilder, as towering limestone cliffs give way to biodiverse wetlands and ancient Greco-Roman ruins, until, finally, the igneous Pyrenean foothills emerge dramatically out of the sea between Cap de Creus and the French border. The path ahead Forming part of the extensive Grand Randonnée network, the Camí de Ronda roughly follows the GR-92 footpath (which continues to southern Catalunya and beyond), marked by a red and white line, and is clearly signposted along the route. At times, it is possible to take a more scenic route along the coast where the GR-92 diverges inland. The overall trail can be broken down into 12 stages and is of easy-moderate difficulty. It can be undertaken in its entirety as a 12day hike, backpack on tow, or simply a day or half day’s walk between resorts. Starting from the south.

Remember to bring • Suitable footwear • Water • Camera • Suncream • GPS or a plain old map! For those interested in the detail, Triangle Postals have published an excellent guide, available in English, Spanish and Catalan.

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WALKING THE CAMI DE RONDA 1. Blanes to Tossa de Mar 6-8 hours, 22km Situated in the comarca of Selva, this touristy stretch of path connects some of the most developed resorts in the Costa Brava. Views are obstructed at times by development, but between coves and cliffs there are still scenic spots aplenty.

7. Empúries (L’Escala) to Roses 8-10 hours, 31km Long but flat, the bird-watching observatories of the Aiguamolls de l’Empordà Natural Park mark the high point of this stretch as it sweeps across the Gulf of Roses, leading to the foot of the Cap de Creus headland.

2. Tossa de Mar to Sant Feliu de Guíxols 6-8 hours, 21km This section of pathway leads walkers along higher paths to cross the l’Ardenya Massif, capturing glimpses of picturesque cliffs overhanging the Med.

8. Roses to Cadaqués 6-8 hours, 22km Upon exiting Roses, considerable urban development flanks wide sandy bays before the route gradually ascends, crossing the promontory of Cap de Norfeu en route to the extraordinary mountain scenery of the Cap de Creus Natural Park.

3. Sant Feliu de Guíxols to Palamós 5-7 hours, 18km Although quite a developed tourist zone, the pathway along this stage hugs the coastline, leading walkers through a succession of sublime beauty spots, as they climb and descend the rugged coast under a canopy of pine trees.

9. Cadaqués to El Port de la Selva 7-9 hours, 24km Leaving picturesque Cadaqués, this section veers away from the GR-92 (which continues inland) to cross one of the most captivating, untamed landscapes in the Mediterranean, stopping by the Cap de Creus lighthouse, Romanesque monasteries, and secluded calas.

4. Palamós to Begur 7-9 hours, 23km This stage has it all. Encompassing both wild Mediterranean landscapes and picturesque coastal villages, this is one of the most beautiful sections of the Camí de Ronda, with many tempting stop-off points along the way.

10. El Port de la Selva to Portbou 6-8 hours, 20km Back on the GR-92, this stage follows the foundations of the Pyrenees, known as the Balmenta Coast, twisting through coves and bays en route to the border town of Portbou.

5. Begur to L’Estartit Two options: coastal (5-7 hours, 18km) or inland (8-10 hours, 32km) The coastal route gets off to a scenic start, traversing the tiny calas of Begur, before continuing along golden sands and paddy fields, whilst inland, hikers can discover the rural landscape and villages of Baix Empordà.

11. Portbou to Banyuls de la Marenda 5-7 hours, 17km Crossing the French border and continuing along the spectacular Côte Vermeille (Red Coast), this is a tricky stretch more suitable for experienced hikers. Expansive vineyards, wild coastline and French coastal villages characterise the route.

6. L’Estartit to Empúries (L’Escala) 6-8 hours, 21km Crossing the extensive pine forests of Montgrí Massif, this stage offers spectacular views of contorted cliffs and rock formations, dropping down to isolated coves where accessible. The path terminates in L’Escala, home to the ancient Greco-Roman ruins of Empúries.

12. Banyuls de la Marenda to Cotlliure 5-7 hours, 18km The grand finale leads hikers along pretty coastal paths, accompanied by marvellous beaches and jagged cliffs, en route to the final destination, Collioure, a fortified port town with a majestic castle dating from the 13th century.

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5/26/14 2:10:31 PM

36 RESTAURANT REVIEW

ROIG ROBI Enjoy Mediterranean flavours in the walled garden of this classic Catalan restaurant. Text by Tara Stevens. Photo by Aimee McLachlan.

Carrer Sèneca 20, Sant Gervasi. Tel. 93 218 9222 www.roigrobi.com Open Mon-Fri 1.30pm-4pm, Sat 8.30pm-11.30pm, closed Sunday. D30 Menu€€30 (not incl. drinks, weekdays only); Tasting menus €42.90 - €64.90 (not incl. drinks); bottle Torello Llopart Cava €30. ✪✪✪✪

NOT WORTH THE TRIP COULD IMPROVE ✪✪✪ GOOD ✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD ✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED ✪

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oig Robí has been a stalwart on Barcelona’s uptown dining scene since it opened over 30 years ago. Beloved by the Catalan foodie contingent who like their dining experiences solid and familiar, and men in suits from the nearby financial district who use it to lubricate deals over boozy lunches (Roig Robí actually has a business club for the purpose), it nevertheless remains curiously off-radar: one of those places that nearly everyone has heard of, but almost nobody has been to. Indeed, it’s taken me 15 years to make a reservation and that was inspired mainly because I happened to be mooching along Carrer Sèneca one afternoon looking for ideas for a restoration project—the street is best known for its vintage furniture stores—and stuck my nose around the door. I’m a sucker for anywhere with a walled garden and a menu that reads like a love letter to seasonal highlights, like spring artichokes, peas and white asparagus, autumn mushrooms and truffles. I especially loved the look of the D30 lunch menu, which makes treating yourself to a posh lunch in a walled garden way more affordable. The nattily named D30 sounds like some sort of edible spitfire, and in some ways it is: think classically Catalan in style, but with a slightly wilder, more modern side. I don’t mean madcap techniques, the cooking here is less showy than that, but the dishes ooze a certain cool confidence that means you know you’re going to get a perfectly cooked piece of fish unencumbered by hefty add-ons, vegetables taut and tasting deeply of what they are, and occasional flourishes of flavour from other Mediterranean countries combined with efficient service that warms considerably as lunch flows on. Then there’s the setting. Not the dining room so much, which is smart but a little serious, but said walled garden flanked on two sides by bright conservatory dining rooms and shaded by thick stalks

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of bamboo, tumbling ivy, lush ferns and stately palms. It is, in short, the perfect place to celebrate the first days of dining al fresco, so I took a friend for his birthday and we spent a jolly afternoon speculating wildly on the affairs of other diners, sipping cava and tucking into May’s D30. It features trotter terrine with lentil vinaigrette, vegetable couscous, a housemade burger that looked fantastic and coconut ice-cream with bitter orange, but we’re after the fresher, lighter, brighter flavours of spring and so opt for salads and fish. The sweet, zingy flavour of oxblood-red Raf tomatoes here is beefed up with a big pile of peppery watercress, which I love and rarely see on menus in Spain so we’re off to a good start. My friend orders pulpo (octopus) smoky with pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika) and tender as butter nestling into a bed of silky textured hummus, served slightly warm. I’ve rarely come across happier pairings of flavour and it’s exactly this sort of precise cooking that gets me excited these days.

IT IS, IN SHORT, THE PERFECT PLACE TO CELEBRATE THE FIRST DAYS OF DINING AL FRESCO. My second course is hake ‘Roig Robi’ style, which translates to a snowy-white hunk of fish beneath a light, crunchy ‘cloud’ of fried, shoestring courgettes that are not greasy at all and pop with a summery sweetness that is simply delightful. The hake itself yielding succulent chunks of impeccably cooked flesh that I can still taste even as I write. My friend’s monkfish tail and langoustines is more classically Catalan, enriched by a sweet, velvety stew of slowly braised onions and likewise a study in fish cookery perfection. Elsewhere the most popular dish seems to be rice with espardenyes (sea cucumbers) and artichokes and is exciting sighs of pleasure from all around. I store it in the list of ‘things to try before I die’ box in my head and turn my attention to pud. When in Barcelona, the true test of a place is a Crema Catalana. Here it’s golden and flecked with darkness like a fullyformed sunflower, and it splinters and cracks like ice when you whack the top with a spoon to reveal an unctuous creamy inner. Perfect. Yogurt mousse with mango sorbet provides just the right hit of sweetness to a smooth, rounded finish. No wonder Roig Robí has stood the test of time. The secret to their success? Quietly getting down to the serious business of turning out solid, accomplished cooking, day after day after day.

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5/26/14 2:17:28 PM

38 QUICK BITES

LAS TERRAZZAS DEL MARESME Enjoy a lazy summer afternoon in this pocket of paradise. By Tara Stevens

ometimes the best thing about living in Barcelona is getting the hell out of Barcelona. And one of Barcelona’s best-kept secrets is the wonderful Costa de Maresme, which is just under our noses yet so often ignored. Much of it is built up, granted, but it’s also full of hidden treasures. Time Out Catalunya recently placed the Platja de Sant Simó (Mataró) in the region’s top 10 beaches, the pretty little town of Alella makes some of the finest white wines in all of Spain, and now there’s Las Terrazzas del Maresme, a little pocket of paradise perched just above the NII that runs along the coast. Utterly chilled and slightly ramshackle, it combines magnificent sea views with leafy gardens arranged around a shady terrace for dining and a sunny rooftop filled with palette-sofas and beanbags for siestas and sundowners. Jam pots turned lanterns dangle from the branches of a big old lime tree, kids romp around on the swings (the

only road up here is a rutted dirt track that is used exclusively by restaurant patrons going slow), and then there’s the charming Harry (from Devon) and Lucia (from Buenos Aires) who camped out here for seven months without electricity when they first stumbled across it a year or so ago. Gradually, they’ve turned it into the happy hideaway it is today with a huge barbecue taking pride of place in the outdoor kitchen, a keenly priced menu (€16) from the house kitchen, and vermut and jazz sessions every Sunday from 12-noon. I come with a gang of friends and their kids one breezy Sunday afternoon when we show up too late for the music—no matter because their playlist is a fantastic medley of jazz, funk and old rockers like Neil Young, Van Morrisson and Steely Dan—but manage to squeeze in a couple of vermuts with olives and mussels before tucking into smoky, juicy hunks of entraña and vacio (Argentinean cuts of beef), churrasco and lamb

tastings

Summer’s Freshness I can never say enough good things to say about the beginning of summer. The long days and just a touch of heat remind us all as to why we live here and brings back my fondest memories of first visiting the region seven years ago and sipping a glass of something on a rooftop terrace while watching the sun set. While there are the diehard sun worshippers out there for whom it’s already beach season (you most definitely will not find me amongst them), there are still hints of coolness along the shores and if you venture further inland, the nights are quite cool. Our meals start filling up with fresh, seasonal vegetables, grilled meats and light seafood. With all that in mind and while I think red wines are always wonderful, it’s a special moment for the southern white wines, especially those with a White Grenache base as it allows freshness, but with a touch of broad-shouldered fortitude.

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Coca i Fitó - Jaspi Blanc 2013 €10 Toni and his brother Miquel started up their cellar in DO Montsant after Toni had been consulting as an enolog with many cellars in the area. Their range of wines from that cellar are great but it’s the oddball in the group from a little further down in DO Terra Alta that hits a great succession of tasty notes for me. It’s a classic blend of mostly White Grenache as well as Macabeu. There are mineral notes in the nose with lime peel and grapefruit. It’s smooth and fresh on the palate with a nice, expressive acidity that lingers on in the finish. Great for meals or just enjoying under the shade of an umbrella.

chops with insanely delicious, herby-salty-slightly-charred grilled potatoes and leafy green salads topped with creamy goats cheese. And for dessert, homemade tiramisu and a rich and creamy mango sorbet followed by chupitos of hierbas cementing that faintly Ibiza-in-the-country vibe. It’s heavenly—one of those places where lunch stretches long and late into the afternoon and by the time we leave the sun is already going down and there’s a chill in the spring air. It’s too cold for swimming, but we’re all plotting our return: possibly for every weekend this summer.

Carretera Mata 58, Mataró. Tel. 93 176 7319. facebook.com/LasTerrazasDelMaresmeLTDM. Open daily 8.30am-10.30pm. From €30 for three course barbecue lunch and a bottle of wine between two.

Miquel Hudin is originally from California but now based in Barcelona. He founded the Vinologue enotourism series of wine books (www.vinologue.com).

Cristian Francés Breton - Blanc 2012 €13 Cristian has worked for L’Infernal of DOQ Priorat in Torroja for some time as a cellar hand. A few years ago he started making his own garage wines that have since branched out into a proper label. While admittedly hard to find and in the case of the white, very limited in production, he’s making some unique bottles down there that are worthy of note. The Blanc has nice floral notes to the nose and a wonderfully fresh body. Its balance of White Grenache, Macabeu, and Chenin Blanc make for a unique, layered white that while expressing the minerality so typical of these wines, also has an elegant balance from start to finish and makes for a very versatile wine.

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40 FOOD & DRINK

FOOD&DRINK

For more in food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking € under 20 | €€ 20-30 | €€€ 30-40 | €€€€ over 40 RV Reservation Advised

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DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS.

Argentine 7SINS BAR AND LOUNGE EIXAMPLE E

9REINAS EIXAMPLE Argentine reastaurant Nueve Reinas has quickly become a favourite for discerning meat-eaters. Renowned for its excellent quality and value 9Reinas is specialised in meats from all over the world. The exquisite Argentina-inspired decoration offers an intimate and welcoming space where every visitor feels like a guest. The restaurant has two ﬂoors and a private room which can host parties of up to nine people. €

If you’re looking for a friendly and good value place for a bite to eat, 7Sins is the place you’re looking for! The menu has a vast selection of dishes to share as well as a large choice of gourmet 100% beef burgers. After your meal there’s an elegant lounge with Chesterﬁeld sofas and elegant decor, ideal for having a drink or cocktail. 7Sins also has a terrace where you can enjoy a meal or a drink outdoors. You can see their full menu at www.7sinsbar.com €

Muntaner 7 | Metro Universitat Tel. 93 453 6445 | www.7sinsbar.com Mon-Sun 1pm till late | RV

Valencia 267 | Tel. 93 272 4766 www.nuevereinas.com/en

Bar BIERFEST TAVERNSAGRADA FAMILIA

KEIK SARRIÀ / SANT GERVASI

This cosy traditional pub has a fantastic range of draft and bottled beers as well as a wide selection of G&T’s. They have large TVs and it’s the perfect place to watch the match with friends. If you study at the UAB join them on Facebook for more info on their regular language intercambio nights. €

Keik has a great range of international fusion dishes, plus a big variety of salads. Everything is made fresh and with top quality ingredients. Save space for their wonderful cakes and desserts - eat in or take away. On Saturdays and Sundays they offer brunch from 10am til 12.45pm, including eggs benedict, French toast and granola. Open every day of the year. €

Av. Gaudí 81 | Metro Guinardó, Sagrada Familia T. 993 480 157 | www.bierfest.es | www.facebook.com/bierfest-barcelona

ANDÚBARRI GÒTIC Andú offers an escape from Barcelona’s mayhem, without sacrificing the fun. The cool music and relaxed vibe draws a diverse and bohemian crowd making it a warm and spirited bar full of animated locals enjoying a great wine list and classic Spanish tapas, buritos, tacos and cocktails. € Correo Viejo I Metro Jaume 1 I M. 646 553 930 Mon-Sun 6pm-2.30am

Doctor Fleming 21 | Tel. 93 414 5536 | www.keik.es

CAFÈ MANDACARÚPOBLE SEC

THE LIME HOUSEBORN

The irresistible food, fantastic wine list and beautiful interior make Cafè Mandacarú a unique space, equally suited to a coffee, glass of wine or excellent tapas. You can also enjoy a tasty cocktail or liquor in a welcoming atmosphere. Every week some of the city’s best musicians provide live music. €

The latest creation from the guys at Rubi Bar, The Lime House keeps the red vibe and the €3.50 mojito, but has a lot more seating and delicious hot food plates. There are 70 gins on offer, and over 40 of then made in-house, try the ‘tomato/basil’ gin or, if you’re brave, the ‘roquefort cheese’ gin! No TV, and James Brown and the Black Keys are on the playlist. Open 7 days a week from 8pm. €

Magalhães 35 | Metro Poble Sec or Paral·lel | Near Plaça del Sortidor | Tel. 93 441 4017 www.cafemandacaru.com | Wed-Sun from 6.30pm

Carders 31 I Metro Jaume 1

Bakery RUBI BAR BORN

Mojitos €3.50

Located near the Picasso Museum in the Born, this friendly bar has a great vibe, fantastic playlist and is home to the best mojito in town! Tapas plates are priced from €3 and over 50 gins from €6-€10. Open 7 days a week from 7.30pm. € Banys Vells 6 I Metro Jaume 1 I Opens at 8pm

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NATA LISBOAEIXAMPLE Heir of one of the most delicious confectionary recipes in the world, with almost two centuries, NATA was born to take the most delicious sweet taste from Lisbon to the four corners of the world. Visit them, try their portuguese specialities and the sublime coffee blend NATA Lisboa. € Mallora 277 I natalisboa.com www.facebook.com/NATALisboaESPANA

NEWD IN F&

5/26/14 4:50:52 PM

FOOD & DRINK 41 Burger

Gastrobar & restaurant BURGER UMAMI EIXAMPLE

MILO GRILL EIXAMPLE New Restaurant & Gastrobar meeting point for the cosmopolitan people of Barcelona.

This burger joint is inspired by the ‘quinto sabor de Umami’ where they offer 30 types of 200g burgers including beef, salmon, chicken and vegetarian options, all made to order and served in artisan buns. With good prices and a friendly atmosphere, don´t be surprised if you see a famous actor or a renowned chef inside. Why not give it a go? Welcome invitation for all Metropolitan readers. €

Gastrobar (prices between €10-€20 per person), open all day with tapas cooked on the spot. Brunch menu available from 12pm to 5pm. Enjoy the ﬁnest classic cocktails in Barcelona (€6 to €9) from 7pm. Restaurant with grill from 1pm-4pm and 8pm-12.30pm where the best meat in the city is authentically prepared. Cuts include Black Angus from Santa Fe, Argentina and Nebraska. €€

EADERS.

Floridablanca 148 | Infront of cinema Renoir Floridablanca | Tel. 93 292 7879 www.burgerumami.com

Balmes 127 | Tel. 93 451 5048 www.milorestaurant.com

Grilled sandwiches PIM PAM BURGERBORN

BUTIFARRING BARRI GÒTIC

At Pim Pam Burger quality is of the utmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are available and are all freshly prepared on the premises. €

Butifarring is a new super specialised gourmet restaurant which makes sandwiches in a special oven with coal and wood, as the main protagonist of the menu. These sandwiches are made with love and the best craft ingredients. You can either eat them in our 2 ﬂoor premise or take them away. In the heart of Barcelona, taste, ﬂavour and smell will surprise you. €

Sabateret 4, Born I Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 I burger@pimpamplats.com Calle Bigai 1, Bonanova, 08022 I Tel. 93 211 5606 www.pimpamburger.com I Every day 1pm-12am

Bagel

Call 26 (Plaça Sant Jaume) | Tel. 93 412 0314 www.butifarring.com

Indian / Tandoori BE MY BAGEL GRÀCIA

SURYA EIXAMPLE

Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed. €

Surya Barcelona, is an Indian restaurant that invites you to travel all the way to the streets of Mumbai, rich with colour, smell and exotic ﬂavors. They offer a cozy and relaxed place where you feel at home, where you can drink, read a magazine, connect to the Internet, work and try out some of their delicious dishes. €

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm

Pau Claris 92 | Tel. 93 667 8760 www.suryabarcelona.com

Café CARROT CAFE POBLENOU The ultimate sandwich place in one of the fastest-growing districts of Barcelona @22. They offer a great selection of sandwiches served on more than 11 types of artisan bread. In addition to their premium hamburgers, beef, turkey and lamb halal, you will find an extensive menu in an inviting location. Without a doubt, Carrot Cafe is the place of excellence for sandwiches in Barcelona. €

TO ADVERTISE HERE IN F&D

CALL 93 451 4486 OR EMAIL ADS@BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

Tànger 22 I Metro Bogatell Tel. 93 309 3375 I Mon-Fri 9am-11pm, Sat 8am-midnight www.carrotcafe.es

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42 FOOD & DRINK Japanese DOBLE ZEROOBORN/ MARESME

BEMBÍINDIAN CULINARY

Experience authentic Indian cuisine in modern and sophisticated surroundings. Their dishes are created with passion by their head chef who has more than 10 years of experience in the best restaurants in both India and London. If you’re vegetarian, then you will love their exciting ﬂavours and aromas.

This contemporary and cosmopolitan Japanese restaurant uses all the secrets and art of exotic cuisines to create an exquisitely reﬁned dining experience. Their tapas are a creative and harmonious fusion of ﬂavours and textures and their innovative and transformational approach to sushi will prove almost impossible to resist. €€

Consell de Cent 377, 08009 I Metro Girona (L4, yellow) I T. 93 502 4952 M. 645 257 701

GOVINDA (VEGETARIAN) BARRI GÒTIC

Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, nonalcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. €

Doble ZerOO Born, Jaume Giralt 53 Tel. 93 315 1744 Tomoe by Doble ZerOO, Sant Delfí 11 Tel. 93 211 9869 (Take away) Doble ZerOO Maresme, Buenos Aires 22, El Masnou Tel. 93 555 8599 (Take away)

Plaça Villa de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 www.amalteaygovinda.com | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm

Italian

Juice bar SANOSANTS Sano juice offers a healthy alternative choice with smoothies and juices, homemade bagels, paninis, wraps, tasty lunch menu for €10.45 and now brunch. Their food and smoothies are made to order with fresh ingredients, no extra sugar, offering the best quality. Sano Cuina (Sants) specialises in brunch and Sano Buenos Aires in take-away salads, wraps and drinks. Eat better. Feel better. €

Creu Coberta 50 | Metro Espanya | Tel. 93 327 8272 Buenos Aires 44 | Cerca de la Plaça Francesc Macià Tel. 93 217 8115

Pizza €1 BEER FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

ACQUA & SALE  POBLENOU This is an authentic southern-Italian kitchen where you can enjoy traditional homemade dishes. Acqua & Sale only use the best Italian ingredients and the freshest seasonal produce. Enjoy the stylish and inviting ambience inside, or, in the warmer months, opt for their outdoor terrace. Sundays midday - brunch and live jazz. (12pm-3pm)

Joncar 17, 08005 | Tel. 93 517 0709 | acquaesaletrattoria@hotmail.com | www.acquaesale.es | Closed Tue

MESSIÉ PIZZAGRÀCIA Messié Pizza is the new place in Gràcia that strives to be cheap and cheerful. It’s the perfect venue to have a few drinks after going to the cinema or theatre, or simply for meeting up with friends. In this charming Gràcia spot you will have the pleasure of sampling a great pizza with a homemade thin and crunchy base, topped with fresh ingredients from the local market. Messié Pizza offers all of this at a good price and in a unique atmosphere decorated with style and great music. Home delivery is also available. €

Torrent de l’Olla 65 I Tel. 93 218 9345 Mon-Fri 6pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun 6pm-Midnight www.messiepizza.es I Metro Fontana / Diagonal

Irish FLAHERTY'SBARRI GÒTIC Since it was established in 2001, Flaherty’s has become one of Barcelona’s best known and busiest Irish pubs. By offering food all day from 10am til midnight (including our popular Full Irish Breakfast as well as group menus), live satellite sports on big screens, WiFi, a sunny terrace and a pool room where you can also play darts, not to mention its very spacious premises, Flaherty’s has rightly become known as the pub that has it all! €

Plaça Joaquim Xirau | Metro Drassanes Tel. 93 412 6263

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VITALI PIZZA BARCELONA Gourmet pizza delivery from 3 locations offering 50+ thin-crust, homemade pizzas. With specials like three large cheese pizzas for €15 and the option to pay by credit card, it makes for an affordable meal at home without all the fuss. Special offer: 2X1 on every Monday home delivery! €

Paris 109 I Metro Hospital Clínic Tel. 93 444 4737 Rosselló 270 I Tel. 93 458 0710 Taxdirt 13 I Metro Joanic/Gràcia Tel. 93 285 41 95 www.vitalipizza.com

5/26/14 4:51:12 PM

HEALTH

BUSINESS DIRECTORY 43

BUSINESS

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS.

to advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com see also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic -

Nart Dental Clinic - DeNtist this state-of-the-art clinic is located close to la sagrada familia and directed by english speaking dentist Dr. Jose Nart, Usa trained and Chairman for the Department of periodontology and implant Dentistry at (UiC). he obtained his phD in Dentistry with the highest degree. their specialist team uses the latest technology to ensure the best possible results. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader discounts and offers.

DeNtist sanz pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona and terrassa provides excellent oral care in an englishspeaking environment. Dr Nancy pancko, an american dentist trained at Columbia University in New York, is an American Board-certified orthodontist. Dr Javier sanz is an american Boardcertified periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university. together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care

Padilla 368, 08025 Metro: Alfons X (L4) T. 93 456 7003 jose@nartperiodoncia.com www.nartclinicadental.com

Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 Metro: Clot (L1, L2) T. 93 246 9043 www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm

Dr. Boj - DeNtist Dr. Boj and his team provide specialised comprehensive pediatric dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Dr. Boj also lectures about all treatments related to these age groups, including laser dentistry.

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

Dra. Susana Campi - DeNtist Abaden Dental Group - DeNtist for all your dental needs, a team consisting of their first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. they have more than 30 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in english, german, french, italian, spanish and Catalan.

Rosselló 95, local, 08029 Metro: Hospital Clínic (L5) Entença (L5) T. 93 322 9114 Fax. 93 322 0220 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

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advanced Dentistry in Barcelona. Methodology: a primary distinctive at abaden is the high value we place on group clinical consultation. During our 28 years of business our dentists across all specialities meet together regularly to collaborate and review patient cases. this group’s clinical case consultation system is a proven method that guarantees accurate patient diagnostics and higher quality service. procedures: implantology (single, multiple or full teeth recovery), aesthetics, orthodontics and general dentistry languages: english, russian, french and portuguese.

Abaden Diagonal - Agustina Saragossa 9-11 (08017) Abaden Sants - Marques de Sentmenat 82 (08029) Abaden Vall d’Hebron - Arenys 89-93 (08035) T. 90 064 9162 (Toll-Free for national calls) Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat 10am-7pm www.dentistsbarcelona.com

5/26/14 4:56:57 PM

HEALTH

BUSINESS DIRECTORY NEST - Network of English Speaking Therapists

Nick Cross - PSYCHOLOGIST / PSYCHOTHERAPIST

The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, German, Italian and Greek. For detailed information, please visit their website.

Nick Cross is a registered psychologist, specialising in psychotherapy. Psychotherapy can help you with the causes of distress and unhappiness and it provides treatment for anxiety, fears, relationship difficulties, depression, problems adjusting, loss and trauma.

M. 644 193 825 ncross@copc.es

www.barcelonaNEST.com

FREE CONSULTATION

Jonathan Lane Hooker -

Hestia - PSYCHOTHERAPY The Hestia International Centre of Psychotherapy has become a reference in the city. The professional team works with individuals, couples and families through psychotherapy, coaching, counselling, clinical hypnosis, art therapy, NLP and EMDR. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, and Catalan. The first consultation is free.

NEW CITY CENTRE OFFICE

Psychotherapist Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people. Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.

Passeig Sant Joan 180 Pral 2a Metro: Joanic (L4) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

Bianca Kruk - THERAPIST

Pharmacy Serra Mandri CHEMIST

Bianca Kruk at Ganesha Healing is a certified therapist in: Naturopathy, Jin Shin Jyutsu, Ear Acupuncture and Quantum Kinesis. She is a member of the Asociación de Profesionales de las Terapias Naturales. Treats: Physical and emotional rebalancing, Pain and stress relief, anxiety, depression, Chronic and acute conditions, Nutritional advice, pregnancy discomforts. All ages welcome! To find out more visit the web or call Bianca directly. Dutch, English, German, Italian and Spanish spoken.

The helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this wellknown Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and also offers a home delivery service.

M. 654 393 629 ganeshahealing@gmail.com www.ganeshahealing.wix.com/engl

Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemist T. 93 416 1270 Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm

Clínica Masculina Europea -

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

MEDICAL CENTER Clínica Masculina Europea is one of the most pioneering medical centers at a national level. The most common sexual dysfunctions treated are: Erectile dysfunction, Early Ejaculation, Penile Curvature, Perturbation of sexual desire.

Doctor for Adults

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Urologic problems: Prostate Symptoms, Fimosis, Vasectomy.

Valencia 281 Entlo. 2º, 08009 T. 93 219 3060 info@clinica-masculina.com www.clinica-masculina.com

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Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

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HEALTH · BUSINESS SERVICES

English Doctor Dr. Steven Joseph - Doctor General Practice Mental Health MB, MRCGP, MRCPsych.

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR Established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care with access to all medical specialties and tests. Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro Les Corts Mon-Sat M. 662 291 191 www.googolmedicalcentre.com

€15 OFF

Tania Spearman - ACUPUNCTURE Make acupuncture your first choice, not your last resort! Tania is offering all Metropolitan readers a 15 discount on first appointments with this voucher. Acupuncture treats many conditions from pain, stress and depression to infertility and more. English, Spanish and German spoken.

Krishinda Powers Duff Bsc Hons - Midwife Krishinda is a fully-qualified and trained British midwife offering home birth and home dilatation services. She also provides antenatal and postnatal care and support to mothers and babies for six weeks after birth. She is supported in her practice by a team of Spanish but British-trained midwives and alternative health care professionals as well as a breast feeding consultant/Doula. Midwife means ‘to be with woman’. Marenostrum Centre de Salut familiar

Enric Granados 133, 4-1 bis M. 644 322 161 info@taniaspearman.com www.taniaspearman.com

Fontanella 16 Principal, 08010 M. 665 143 437 krishinda@gmail.com www.barcelonamidwife.com

Therapies Adam - THERAPIST

Fletcher Consultancy Ltd -

Does a headache or migraine interfere with your daily life? Do you suffer from stress and anxiety? Is an old whiplash injury still causing problems? Do you have trouble sleeping? Do you have jaw or eye tension? Are you looking for the right path and more peace and balance in your life? Do you suffer from depression? Plaça Dr. Letamendi 3/4, Passeig de Gràcia M. 689 786 519 www.terapias-adam.com

Panizo Institute Craniosacral Osteopathy Osteopathy treats the body, mind and emotions as one. By working with the osteopath you can treat the more commonly known ailments of low back and neck pain, but also treat headaches, migraine, digestive problems and stress relief. Plaça Dr. Letamendi 3/4, Passeig de Gràcia M. 689 786 519 www.craneosacral-panizo.com

Víctor Sánchez Vaqué BUSINESS LAWYER As a business lawyer and legal consultant, Víctor Sánchez Vaqué offers legal advice and assistance to foreign and local companies and individuals in contracting, licensing, negotiation, investment projects and other legal areas of business in different sectors.

Víctor Sánchez Vaqué

M. 616 233 333 vsanchez@icab.cat

Spain Accounting Tax AND Accounting services Qualified UK accountant with 25 years’ experience in Spain offers: · Tax services for freelance ‘autónomos’ & companies · Income tax returns for employees & non-residents · Registration of ‘autónomos’ & company incorporation (SL) · Practical advice on setting up a business in Spain · Fast, reliable email service

Call David Cook 678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY 45

CONSULTANCY Fletcher Consultancy Ltd. now operates in Spain providing tailored training and development services for managers and employees, development and access to UK qualifications for ex-pats, HR services for development of competence based systems. Our UK business services blue chip clients in both public and private sectors. We have special offers for new clients, including free mystery shopping and training needs analysis. shirleydirect@aol.com M. +44 799 053 4331 www.fletcherconsultancy.co.uk www.nvqenespana.com

Husky’s IMMIGRATION BUREAU HUSKY´S IMMIGRATION BUREAU provides consulting services in the fields of Immigration Law and real estate. They ensure quality service through professional experience since 2007 and Spanish Ministry of Foreign Affairs official accreditation. Their English, Russian and Spanish speaking experts are aware of all the latest changes in Spanish legislation and offer a full range of services for all types of residence permits in Spain or Andorra. T. 93 218 1750 info@spain-immigration.es www.spain-immigration.es

Sánchez Molina LEGAL PRACTICE The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

5/26/14 4:57:04 PM

46 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

BUSINESS SERVICES · SCHOOLS

Easi-Sat - teleVisioN serViCe

ARC97SL - offiCe aND hoMe iMproVeMeNts

specialists in satellite tV, hD, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reliability throughout Catalunya for many years. their professional team provides satellite television from across europe, including Dutch, french, italian and russian, at unbeatable prices. they have solutions for loss of Uk channels, with or without a dish. New iptV is the solution to viewing Uk freesat channels, BBC’s, itV’s, al Jazeera sports 1-10, and many more. follow them on facebook/easisat and twitter ‘@ paulDuval15’.

Do you want to build or renovate your office or ﬂat? ARC97 specialise in the design and construction of new works and renovations. they are committed from beginning to end and take care of every detail of each project. they will tailor any project according to your specific needs, style, taste and interests. they guarantee that all work will be completed on time and within budget. Media and Marketing Assistant Jo Elizabeth Hardman M. 610 544 614 Pietat 8 baixos, 08002 arc97@arc97.com www.arc97.com

BOOK NOW FOR A FREE DEMO

Mrs.Q design studio -

T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 enquiries@easisat.net www.easisat.net

Geo Mac - CoMpUters

graphiC DesigN

GRAPHIC DESIGN STUDIO BUSINESS PACKAGES logo design - stationery - advertising

POSTERS & BROCHURES wedding stationery

10% DISCOUNT FOR GROUPS OF 6+

Just Royal -

STOP N’ DRIVE -

CookiNg workshop

DriViNg sChool

Just royal is a Mediterranean cooking school that teaches you how to create authentic spanish dishes using traditional ingredients. Chef alfredo rodriguez will teach you his special industry secrets and recipes that will impress friends when you return home. the workshops are great fun if you’re looking for activities for friends and family that are visiting. they also make a great alternative for your birthday celebrations and even corporate team building activities.

stop by their driving school to learn about how you can get your spanish (european) driving license in english and from home! Don’t let time be your excuse. Stop N’ Drive is the first driving school in Barcelona that instructs you through online videos and offers intensive courses lasting only two weeks, between 7.30pm to 10pm. stop N’ DriVe Driving school courses are low-cost, so don’t hesitate to get in touch with them and start your journey. Become a driver in Barcelona!

Plaza Real 3, B, 08002, M. 636 869 855 espacio@justroyalbcn.com www.JustRoyalBCN.com

Bejar 67, 08014 (Between plaza España and Sants Estació) www.aestopndrive.com

Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in english. their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn everything you need to know about spanish road systems. they have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

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M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com

Corsa - DriViNg sChool

Ask for the special Metropolitan reader offers

george Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. among the services he offers, george can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and aDsl setup. he can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

Mrs.Q Design studio offers a range of specialised services from branding to graphic design, web design, ceramics, photography and bespoke invitations. she will help you bring some of your personality to your brand and use her knowledge of colour, passion for typography and creative ﬂair to create an identity that engages your customers. Contact Mrs.Q for her competitive business packages. she specialises in bespoke wedding invitations, tailor-made to suit the style of your wedding. Designed with love!

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324 www.corsa.cat/en/courses www.facebook.es/autoescuelacorsa

10% DISCOUNT

BERLITZ - sChool at Berlitz language school they have a teacher available for you whether you take face-to-face classes or through their virtual classroom with a huge range of courses available for english, french, german, russian and spanish. their amazing online platform has more than 218 specialties which can be adapted to fit your needs. Their one-day business workshops can also add the finishing touch to your professional language needs. 10% discount with this advert. Av. Diagonal 382, 08037 Tel. 93 215 0100 barcelona1@berlitz.es www.berlitz.es Mon-Fri 8am-09.30pm

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SCHOOLS · BEAUTY

BUSINESS DIRECTORY 47

BCN BABEL laNgUage sChool BcnBabel is a language school in the centre of Barcelona. (Urgell) they offer language courses in a cosy environment, offering extensive courses in spanish and Catalan all year round. they also offer intensives in July and august for a very reasonable price of 340. all classes are in small groups (maximum of 8 people per class) at very convenient times for tourists or Barcelona residents who want to learn the language in a fun and dynamic way. Comte Urgell 47 Metro Urgell (L1) / Sant Antoni (L5) T. 93 141 1644 M. 660 235 736 hola@barcelonababel.com

Coral - spaNish teaCher Reach a Spanish level that best fits your time, interests and needs! try Coral’s personalised courses using interesting and effective methods that make learning easy. she will come to your home or business and provide the material. all levels; private or small groups (up to 3). 60-min class 25; 90-min class €35. If you need classes via skYpe, she can also offer online lessons. she is a native, experienced and highly-qualified teacher.

M. 676 249 744 coral@coralprada.com

HAIR CUT €15 + HOT SHAVE €25

BCN Cuts - BarBer shop Directly from Boston to gràcia comes BCN Cuts Barber shop to offer you time to relax surrounded in a welcoming environment. with a drink in hand and jazz music playing in the background, you can have a hair cut or try their hot lather shave the classic way. BCN Cuts is a traditional barber shop with a contemporary atmosphere. You will keep coming back for the excellent service.

Gran de Gràcia 223 T. 93 611 1813 bcncuts@gmail.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

BCN lip language school is a small school located in the heart of the gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn spanish, Catalan, english, french, german, portuguese, russian, italian, Japanese, Chinese and hebrew. the courses are intensive and extensive, varying from 4 - 30 hours a week, Monday to saturday. The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience. they also offer specialised summer programs, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.

Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

10% OFF

The Vital Touch - Massage the Vital touch Massage clinic helps you relax, energise, re-balance and improve your health and lifestyle with a therapeutic, holistic full-body massage. - helps relieve tension, reduce stress, detoxify your body and boost your self-esteem. - We also visit offices and events around Barcelona helping stressed executives to relax and re-energise in their working day.

M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com

Aire de Barcelona -

Beauty Planet

araB Baths

hair aND BeaUtY

in aire Barcelona, they love the stamp of tradition and the wisdom of the ages. they adapt to the current century perfectly, and have plunged it into an atmosphere of sophistication, magic, relaxation and health, thus turning the legacy of the arab baths into a totally new therapeutic experience.

leave behind your daily routine and prepare for a range of sensational treatments at Beauty planet. they offer each client a completely customised service, including aesthetic advice from their experts. Beauty planet hair and beauty in Barcelona has a team of hair professionals to ensure you receive the highest quality, comprehensive service.

Paseo Picasso 22, 08003 M 609 338 823 www.airedebarcelona.com

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BCN L.I.P. - laNgUage sChool

Diputació 197, 08011 T. 93 512 2360 info@beautyplanetbcn.com www.beautyplanetbcn.com

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48 DIRECTORY

SHOPPING for more shopping visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/shopping

ECOOLOGY

Comte Urgell 28, 08011 · T. 606 53 54 93 · Mon-Fri 11am-7pm www.ecology.es

Wear the latest trends made in Barcelona with the best ecological fabrics. Now you can be fashionable and respect the planet, you can feel good and unique with limited edition eco fashion that matches your personality. Forget about dressing like everyone else, you are different. Ecoology is ethical, cool and trendy eco-fashion for your everyday lifetime.

OJALA!

Ciutat 14 · T. 93 601 1830 · www.ojala.es · Mon-Sat 10am-8,30pm

KITSCH

Muntaner 17-19 (Eixample) L1/L2 (Universitat) · T. 93 453 2052 info@kitsch.es · www.kitsch.es Open Mon-Sat 10am-10pm

Opened in 1978, Kitsch is Spain´s very first sex shop. The shop offers a wide range of toys from quality brands like LELO, Fun Factory, Iroha, Tenga and WeVibe, as well as condoms, books, lingerie, movies and more. The shop also arranges guided tours and talks by psychologists/ sexologists. They have an extensive online shop too.

OJALA! is the fashion brand by Paloma Del Pozo, hailed as one of today’s most original and creative Spanish designers. Her new Barcelona boutique is located on a charming street in the Gothic quarter, only 50 metres from the Plaça Sant Jaume. Del Pozo designs joyful, colourful and elegant quality garments that will make any women stand out in a crowd.

BCN PAINTING ROUTE

Carrer de Lledó 17 · T. 93 319 9178 bcnpaintingroute@outlook.es · www.facebook.com/BCNPaintingRoute

New gallery in the heart of the Gothic quarter showcasing oil paintings on canvas and other works of art. High quality paintings starting from just 40 The perfect place to find the perfect painting of Barcelona.

PARRUP

Banys Nous 17 · www.parrup.com www.facebook.com/ParrupBarcelona

PARRUP brings together the best from local designers, carefully selected unique pieces, limited edition products and finely crafted clothes, jewellery, art and furniture.Why PARRUP? Because they love talented people. Because they want to showcase what they can offer. Because they believe in the local economy and production transparency. Because they don’t believe in the ‘made in Asia’ business. Nothing more but nothing less.

24 KILATES

Comerç 29 · T. 93 268 8437 · www.24-kts.com

Plaça Virreina 7, 08012 · T. 93 218 6907 www.bateaulune.com · info@bateaulune.com www.facebook.com/bateaulune

Bateau Lune is a traditional toy shop for kids where you can find a large variety of traditional toys including; wooden bicycles, trains, also micro scooters, also kites and outdoor games and many more rare and original toys. Go visit them today and get ideas for special occasions such as birthday presents and Christmas gifts. Check out their free activities for children twice a month on the Virreina square in Gràcia!

AMANTIS

Torrent de l’Olla 145 · M: Fontana · T. 93 501 0641 · www.amantis.net

Located in the Born shopping area, this exclusive streetwear store has become internationally renowned thanks to its exciting design collaborations with many famous brands like New Balance, Stussy, Reebok, Lacoste, Puma, Asics, Nike, Saucony, Adidas, New Era and more. Definitely worth a look.

Situated in the heart of Gracia, amantis is a new erotic haven where you’ll find thousands of reasons to not get out of bed. Offering a large variety of erotic toys, oils and lubricants, erotic shoes, condoms, books and DVDs, amantis has something for every gender and sexuality. Soon to offer workshops and activities.

ARTSHOP

FURTIVO SKATEBOARDING

Sitges 7 · T. 93 676 2311 · www.facebook.com/Artshopbcn

Located close to Plaça Catalunya, the Artshop has a full range of artist supplies and a small family gallery. If you need a simple watercolour set or any other specialist items, they can be bought or ordered for you at the shop.

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BATEAU LUNE

www.furtivoskateboarding.com

Furtivo Skateboarding is an online skateboarding shop with selected products of premium brands, offering hi-end skateboarding products. Pro-Models represent 80 percent of their stock. You can find: Plan B, Flip, Blind, Cliché, Darkstar, Enjoi, Element, BLVD, Toy Machine, Foundation and many more. They deliver world wide in 24 to 48 hours. Register now to take advantage of their offers and promotions.

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DIRECTORY 49

JOBS To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS www.classiďŹ eds.barcelona-metropolitan.com

WOULD YOU LIKE TO WORK AS A MODEL? We are looking for new models & actors for 2014. We are interested in candidates of all types and ages. You can drop by our offices from Monday to Friday: 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-18:00 Email your cv to : jma@modelos.net Visit our website: www.modelos.net Dolors Masferrer i Bosch, 20-22, entlo, 08028

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50 BACK PAGE

BCNFashionistas

Esther Levy & Vanessa Burrows Barcelona socialites & bloggers

We met each other at a ‘mix & match’ party. After a glass of rosé we discovered our kids went to the same school, which gave us another excuse to connect, besides friendship, shopping and business. We are personal shoppers, storytellers and socialites who can advise, guide, organise and introduce you into the most privileged circuits in town, for business or pleasure. We’ll be your best friend. There are many reasons to enjoy the city’s uptown area. There are more gardens and parks. There are more open spaces with training circuits like Carretera de les Aigües or amazing gyms like the new Metropolitan. There are also many beautiful and extraordinary homes in Pedralbes and Sarriá. There are some very trendy shops in Amigó and Santaló, close to the market of Galvany. L’Illa is a fabulous shopping centre where the local uptowners find everything they need in one stop. The most fabulous event we have ever been to has to be the Pronovias 50th anniversary party at the Italian Pavillion in Montjuïc a couple of weeks ago. They had reconstructed a palacete replica of their new flagship store in Sevilla. Attending were celebrities, aficionados, fashionistas and members of the international press and friends.

They also turned the MNAC Palace museum into a night club under that gorgeous dome. It was pretty wow! Summer wardrobe must-haves to look out for in Barcelona are t-shirts with great messages (Markus Lupfer), sailor stripes for the Brigitte Bardot look (Castañer) day time metallics (Size, Como Agua de Mayo), glam sportswear (Jofre 20,TCN and Yerse) and strappy heels (Pura Lopez). Our future is our present, discovering the latest trends, building content and social networking to keep helping VIPs with the same enthusiasm we have been doing for years. We’re also building a shopping site with our favourite picks from new and upcoming designers, and fashionista secondhand clothes.

Our Recommmendations:

For lunch: Escriba, Bar Mut, Chez Coco, Pepito, La Cuina de’en Garriga, Cañete and Martinez. For dining al fresco: Isabella’s, Nuba, Bar Turó, Mishima or romantic dinners at Abac or Tram Tram. For dinner: Mutis, Boca Grande and Blanc at the Mandarin Oriental. For cocktails: Omm, Pullitzer and the 1898 Hotel Rooftop To party: Private homes, Ocaña and Bling Bling.

By Ben Rowdon

scoop

Esther: I was born and raised in Barcelona. At 18, I moved to Los Angeles to study, and did my Masters in Costume at New York University, in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. I then became a fashion correspondent for Marie Claire magazine, and have now started Friend & the City, a personal shopping service in Barcelona. It’s been five years since I moved back to Barcelona for good. I came back simply to enjoy the good life this city has always offered. For me Barcelona has the best of California, without everything being so far away, and the avantgarde feel of New York, without the stress. Vanessa: I’m half-Brazilian, half-German, but born in Paris. You could say I’ve had itchy feet all my life, so I soon left Paris to live in Berlin, London, Rome, Bangkok and for the last eight years in Barcelona. My fashion technology startup (www.bodi.me) requires me to travel a lot but when I’m home, you’ll find me at a trendy terrace restaurant, shopping in uptown boutiques or attending fabulous parties with other fashionistas I’ve met in this city. I love the fact that I can always bump into someone I know in Barcelona—there’s always a familiar face around. My friends will tell you I’m a big party animal and Barcelona is the perfect playground for me in that sense.

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