Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 213

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OCTOBER 2014 Nº 213

A passion for fusion A core group of musicians is at the heart of Barcelona’s flamenco fusion scene

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things to do in October

ON YOUR BIKE?

Take a trip uptown by moto

Suspense and gore At the Sitges film festival

History underfoot

Barcelona’s emblematic tiles Fashion 01 cover.indd 1

pullout calendar

restaurant reviews

A PLACE OF MY OWN

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CONTENTS october 2014 Regulars 06 08 09 10 34 36 50

New in Town In the City Recipe A Place of My Own Travel Food & Drink Interview

Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Andrea Moreno Editor Esther Jones Assistant Editor Art Director Aisling Callinan

What’s on 20 22 24 26

Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell, Aline Davis

Music Art Best of the Rest Pullout October Calendar

Sales Assistant Malu Branda Editorial Assistant Rachel Huffman, Nicky Armstrong Design Assistant Hayley Cantor

Features

Contributors Chris Finnigan, Miquel Hudin, Carol Moran, Tori Sparks, Tara Stevens, Sam Zucker

13 Fashion Our pick of the best this month 14 REPORT: A passion for fusion Tori Sparks talks to some of the driving forces on Barcelona’s flamenco fusion scene.

28 History underfoot Barcelona’s tiles are a fascinating part of the city’s history.

30 On your bike? Do as the locals and zip around the city on a two-wheeler.

33 Sitges Film Festival It’s time for the town’s annual celebration of suspense and gore on the silver screen.

Cover image Photo by Pepe Gomez.

Photographer Hayley Cantor Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial: editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com General: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com.

Carrer de la Ciutat 7 2ª-4ª, 08002 Barcelona.

Tel. 93 451 4486

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Directories Food & Drink Business Shopping Jobs

Depósito legal: B35159-96

contributors

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The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

SAM ZUCKER

TORI SPARKS

Christopher Finnigan

Sam is originally from Boston, Massachusetts in the US. He studied ecology, photography and Spanish language at Hampshire College (Amherst, MA). He then went on to train as a chef at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America (Hyde Park, NY) and earn an introductory certification from the Court of Master Sommeliers in 2013. He currently lives in Barcelona and works as a culinary tour operator and food/travel writer for several outlets, including his blog: Zucker & Spice Travel—zuckerandspicetravel.com

Tori is a professional musician living in Barcelona. She and her band have released four albums, recorded in Nashville, and are releasing the fifth this month, their first to recorded here in Barcelona. Tori has been writing for Metropolitan for a year and a half, mostly on topics dealing with society, culture, art and music. She enjoys working with Metropolitan because it gets her head out of ‘touring mode’, and allows her the opportunity to meet fascinating people she might otherwise never come across.

Christopher is a freelance journalist originally from the UK and now based in Barcelona. He is a reader and book reviewer for the Barcelona Review and he blogs for El País. He holds an Msc in Political Philosophy from the London School of Economics and before moving to Barcelona he worked for two years as a parliamentary researcher for a Labour MP in Westminster. You can follow him here: @chrisjfinnigan

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NEW in town

Tattoos with class Originally involved in construction and real estate, David Roig saw the economic crisis as an opportunity to take a new path in life and pursue his passion: tattoos. In the Eixample, next to a high-end martini bar, Stay Gold is not your traditional dark, crowded tattoo place.

It is light, open, and rather elegant. The location was decided upon after a long period of searching and a little luck, and has a lot to do with the ideals behind Roig’s parlour. “I wanted a parlour that a businessman like me could go to, park his car and feel comfortable sitting down to get a tattoo,” said David. And judging by Stay Gold’s varied clientele of teenagers, business people and even a father and daughter, David seems to be getting it just right.

Stay Gold. Aribau 163. www.staygoldbcn.com

The Next thing in burgers Filburg, the newest addition to the gourmet burger scene in Barcelona, is a dream come true for owner Eduard Benet. With a vibe more steakhouse than burger shack, you can take your seat in a comfy, brown leather chair and eat a burger like never before: with a knife and fork. Whether you order your premium beef burger with or without a bun, you’ll need your utensils ready. The three-finger-thick patties come piled high with mouth-watering toppings, making the scrumptious concoctions nearly impossible to get your mouth around.

Filburg. Avinguda Josep Tarradellas 138. www.filburg.com

Organic’s Organic’s is a refreshing addition to Plaça Urquinaona, where most lunch options are mass-produced sandwiches and American fast food. As you enter the restaurant, a painted wall boasts its features: 100 percent organic, made in BCN, fragrance-free space, etc. Colourful, appetising snapshots of the menu items help people create a bespoke menú del día. For 11,95 euros, pick up a drink and chilled salad on your way to the counter where you order a hot dish and a coffee to top off your meal. Or, make your own five-ingredient salad. There’s a multitude of nourishing options here so do as their slogan says and “Be Smart…Be Organic’s.”

Organic’s. Pl. Urquinaona 14. www.organicsbcn.com

Grasso It’s a design shop by day and a speakeasy restaurant by night. Owners, Andrea, Jesse and René, completely renovated a space in the Born and opened Grasso just a month ago. By day, the retail shop gives young, unknown artists and designers an outlet to show and sell their work. Everything you see is for sale, even the dinner plates. By night, the shop turns into an underground restaurant. The tasting menu changes every week, but the team always promises five courses that are a celebration of taste, including the ingredients you love to talk bad about but want to eat.

Grasso. Verdaguer i Callís 6. www.grassobarcelona.com

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VOLL DAMM BARCELONA INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL OCTOBER 10TH - NOVEMBER 30TH Now in its 46th year, this iconic jazz festival is back with another stellar lineup. Its reputation for enticing national and international greats and putting on a packed programme of concerts and masterclasses has rightfully earned this annual festival a place on the international jazz scene. The concerts are held in different venues throughout the city from the intimacy of the Harlem Jazz Club to the crowd-drawing Auditori and Palau de la Música.

For prices and November concerts go to www.barcelonajazzfestival.com OCTOBER CONCERTS Jaques Morelenbaum Cello Samba Trio Oct 17th, 9pm. L’Auditori Jean-Philippe Guy Oct 17th, 8.30pm. Harlem Jazz Club The Campbell Brothers Oct 18th, 9pm. Apolo Joachim Kühn Oct 23rd, 8.30pm. Conservatori del Liceu Vicente Amigo Oct 24th, 9pm. Palau de la Música Adriana Ospina Oct 24th, 8.30pm. Harlem Jazz Club Wayne Shorter Quartet Oct 28th, 9pm. L’Auditori Zakir Hussain & Masters of Percussion Oct 29th, 9pm. Barts Kurt Rosenwinkel & Orquestra Jazz de Matosinhos Oct 30th, 9pm. Barts Rudresh Mahanthappa Gamak Oct 31st, 9pm. Luz de Gas Amélie Angelbaut Oct 31st, 8.30pm. Harlem Jazz Club MASTERCLASSES Oct 22nd-November 20th. Conservatori del Liceu.

The Conservatori del Liceu will host 16 masterclasses by some of the musicians playing at this year’s festival, including pianists Kenny Barron, Joachim Kühn and Jacky Terrasson, bassist Dave Holland, and saxophonists Joe Lovano, Rudresh Mahanthappa, Joshua Redman and Mark Turner.

See www.conservatoriliceu.es for more details.

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THINGS TO DO in october

the Informer First prize for Barcelona app Barcelona has been awarded the Bloomberg Foundation award for its new social app for vulnerable people who live alone. The award is worth five million euros, which will go to getting the app, called Vincles, to the people who need it. The app was designed by the Ajuntament, and allows users to be connected to a network of health and social assistance.

Sagrada Familia residents protest against mass tourism Over 200 people from the Sagrada Familia area took to the streets to protest against what they consider to be unsustainable mass tourism and the negative effects it has on the neighbourhood, including the proliferation of tour buses and unlicensed tourist apartments.

1. Enjoy the castanyada While other countries are dressing up as ghosts and ghouls, the Catalan tradition for October 31st is a far more gentle affair. Today is the Castanyada, a festival when autumnal foods, such as chestnuts, sweet potatoes and panellets are feasted upon. The custom is said to have originated in the 9th century, when the men of the town would go to ring the church bells in honour of the dead, and the women would bake these treats to keep them going through a hard night of tolling. The delicious marzipan panellets can be found at bakeries throughout the city. For the most authentic, try Mauri (Rbla. Catalunya 103), Foix de Sarrià (Major de Sarrià 57) or La Colmena (Pl. del’Àngel 12).

2. See a Barça match The Blaugranas have gone through a lot of changes in the last year. Manager Gerardo Martino has been replaced by the familiar face of Luis Enrique. Old timers Puyol and Valdes have also moved on, as have Cesc Fabregas, Alexis Sanchez and Bojan Krkic. And, the club has welcomed several new signings into the fold, including Luis Suarez (he of the World Cup biting incident). So, it’s time to see if they have managed to leave the last season’s problems behind them. And if you don’t know the first thing about football (and don’t particularly care), you don’t need to be a fan to enjoy the party atmosphere at Camp Nou. This month’s home matches are on the 18th against Eibar (League), 21st against Ajax (Champions League) and 29th against Espanyol (Catalunya Supercup).

3. Hunt for bolets Mushroom season is upon us and every market and greengrocers is adorned with baskets of freshly-picked mushrooms, mostly hailing from the woodlands of Catalunya. Head to Bolets Petràs in La Boqueria, where bolet-hunter extraordinaire, Llorenç Petràs, can tell you what’s what. Better still, why not get out there and forage your own? If you can’t hook up with a knowledgeable, local friend, then at least know where to go, what to look for and what to avoid at www.bolet.info.

4. Crunch some leaves What better way to enjoy autumn than to take a leisurely walk crunching leaves underfoot. So, dig out a thick sweater, take the ferrocarril to Baixador de Vallvidrera and join one of the Collserola park’s guided walks. They start from the park information centre every Saturday at 10.30am and 12 noon and cost €1.75 per person. Each walk lasts an hour and has a specific theme, such as birds, pine trees or wild boars. See the park’s website for more details: www.parcnaturalcollserola.cat.

5. Brew your own beer It’s beer month in Munich, so why not here? Craft beers are enjoying a major revival right now in Catalunya and there are plenty of places to try some local flavours. But if you want to take things a step further it’s time to sign up to a course with Steve’s Beer Acadamy and learn how to brew your own. Originally from Liverpool, long-term Barcelona resident and craft beer expert, Steve Huxley runs these three-session courses which take place throughout the year. The courses cost €120 and cover brewing, bottling and tasting. See www.stevebeer.com for more information. Cheers!

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Ski slope for Zona Franca Dutch company SnowWorld wants to build a 300-metre indoor ski slope in the Zona Franca. The project, which would cost 45 million euros, is supported by the Catalan Federation of Winter Sports, but doesn’t yet have the green light from the Ajuntament.

Grants for electric bikes The Área Metropolitana de Barcelona (AMB) will give 250 euros to the first 1,000 city residents to buy an electric bike. The vice president of the AMB has also spoken of the success of Bicibox (www.bicibox.cat), a scheme that offers secure parking for bicycles around the city. 3,000 people use the service each week.

25 people arrested in operation against prostitution The Mossos d’Esquadra have arrested 25 people for their links to prostitution after a series of raids on clubs and apartments, during which two clubs were temporarily closed. Among the arrested are four members of the Guardia Urbana.

Locutorios to smarten up The Ajuntament is targeting locutorios (phone centres) in an effort to improve the city’s aesthetic and to enforce signage rules. Local law states that shops signs must be at least in Catalan and must not stick out beyond the building façade.

The locutorios will receive some government help with the cost.

Check out our Friday Informer for a weekly news roundup.

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

9/24/14 12:49:45 PM

METROPOLITAN people What is your favourite live music venue in the city?

Alice 29, Actress, Romania I used to promote for Orquesta Ilegal,who frequently play at Harlem Jazz Club. They became like my kids and Harlem Jazz Club became like my home.

So I would have to say that is my favourite live music venue. Now, I still try to go every Friday, even if it’s just for the sake of the jazz.

Denis 25, Traveller, France Moog is by far my favourite live music venue. Once I went twice in six days if that gives you a clue how much I like it. I go for the acid house and electronic music. The club is great because there’s always a good mix of people. It never feels too touristy. The atmosphere always makes it feel more like a place where locals go.

Oscar 19, Student, Spain Right now, with the Hipnotik Festival going on, the CCCB is my favourite live music venue.

But on a regular night, it’s Jamboree. I like the hip hop they play downstairs later in the night.

Depending on the people I go with, I might go upstairs, too.

Florbele 43, Astrologist, Portugal Miscelanea. That’s a hard one, though, because there aren’t many live music venues in the city. But that’s what makes Miscelanea so special. It’s one of the few truly live music places. I love that they offer more alternative programmes, no commercial music. They present a quality of music that is rare today.

oundup.

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A PLACE OF MY OWN FIONA CARNEGIE HAS CREATED A LIGHT AND SPACIOUS HOME FOR HER FAMILY IN THIS BEAUTIFUL EIXAMPLE RENOVATION.

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The reclaimed bathroom tiles are from Otranto.

enovating an apartment takes vision, patience and the right space. All three things came together for Fiona Carnegie and she managed to renovate an entire apartment in the Eixample in just three months. Originally Fiona, along with her husband David, was looking to move to a place on the ground floor with a terrace. “But you find a place and you sit out on the terrace and you’re suddenly very aware that everyone in the building can look down at you. You get the feeling that you’re being watched all the time, which makes it hard to relax,” said Fiona. So instead they chose to buy an apartment on the top floor where the natural light flooding in through the front windows was too spectacular to pass up.

From the beginning, Fiona had a very clear idea what she wanted: a mix of modern and vintage. She also strived to keep the apartment uncluttered in order to keep movement throughout the space. “As much as I love looking around for new pieces, I’m very aware of not letting the space get too crowded,” she said. It’s more an attention to detail, rather than an overload of furnishings and knick-knacks, that makes her apartment special.

The tiles of the bathroom floor were found at Otranto, a shop in on Pg. Sant Joan that sells reclaimed pieces from old Modernista flats. A chaise longue that sits in the study was snatched from a neighbour down the street who was on her way to the rubbish with it. There was one eye-catching rosetón above the chandelier in the entrance way, so Fiona decided to add other gorgeous ones around the ceiling of the apartment to match.

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An interior patio floods the bedroom with light.

The sitting room and study are divided by a mint green sliding door.

The expansive front room also reflects her minimalist ideology.

Two walls that once divided the rounded front room of this corner apartment were torn down to create an open concept and connect the kitchen, living room and study. The kitchen, moved from the rear of the apartment to the front, includes a handmade wood table, the base of which is an old dressmaker’s table, and is long enough that someone can eat at one end and draw at the other. The kitchen cabinets and counters were also tailored to fit the family’s needs. Being taller than average, Fiona had her counters raised to a comfortable height for her to work on while she’s cooking. Just another pleasant perk of custom-making things in your home.

Moving to the right of the kitchen, there are two mismatched couches which face each other. Rather than having a television as the focal point of the living room, this arrangement calls for socialising. Next to this living space is the study with floor to ceiling built-in bookshelves as its backdrop. A mint green wall can slide closed to create a barrier between those at play and those at work, and once the study is closed off a sense of calm falls over the room and encourages you to sit down and get serious.

If all the other features of the apartment and its ambience don’t make you want to pack your bags and move in, up one more flight of stairs lays a spacious, sun-drenched rooftop terrace worth envying. In one corner, among some potted greenery, Fiona has set-up outdoor furniture to relax on. The rest of the area has been left open, the Barcelona cityscape being enough decoration. This way the kids can rollerblade and ride their bikes without having to deal with the unpredictable drivers and crazy motorbikes on the street below.

As Fiona sat back on her couch for one last picture, I could see the joy and pride she has in her renovation success, in being able to create a peaceful and comfortable home for her family.

She makes it all look easy. “I would love to do another renovation, especially since I got along so well with our architect. I just have to find the right space and the money.” Any space would benefit from her undeniable ability to take an outdated home and bring life back into it, making it a homeowner’s dream.

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infashion

This month we head to the city centre to see what the word is on the street...

Our pick

FEDORA HAT €15 Stradivarius Av. Diagonal 3 Passeig de Gràcia 11

TARTAN SHIRT €45 Topshop Bergara 1

SILK TOP €15 American Vintage www.americanvintagestore.com

BOOTS €49.99 Pull & Bear

Hanna, 30, BelgiAN On a short break in Barcelona with her friends, Hanna shops at American Vintage, as well as some of our favourite classics; Pull & Bear and H&M.

Fontanella 10 Pelai 40

end m m o c e r e W

Marieke, 25, German Rocking her grandmother’s shirt and mixing it ingeniously with the latest short shorts from H&M, Mareike gets great value for money and an individual look.

SHORT SHORTS €15 H&M

Portaferrissa 16 Passeig de Gràcia 9

PONCHO €25 Stradivarius

Av. Diagonal 3 Passeig de Gràcia 11

LEATHER BAG €175 & Other Stories Passeig de Gràcia 8

DRESS €25.99 Mango

Av. Portal de l’Àngel 7 Passeig de Gràcia 65

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REPORT

IT'S A SMALL WORLD FLAMENCO FUSION IN BARCELONA.

By TORI SPARKS.

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l mundo es un pañuelo. In English, that roughly translates to ‘the world is the size of a handkerchief.’ If you are talking about the world of music in Barcelona—especially the world of flamenco/rumba fusion—the metaphor is more than accurate. The wave of fusion music that has come out of this city in the last decade is stronger and more alive than ever, but nobody outside of the inner circle is aware of how much overlap exists within this small but powerful group of sonic innovators.

These are the musicians who link the past and future of Barcelona’s live and recorded music, and who keep the scene going—at least within the world of fusion, where traditional music meets modern technology and sensibilities.

Here in Barcelona, three artists, in very different phases of their careers, are intricately connected by artistic collaborations and musical ties. They are the band Lenacay, which includes a few of the founding members of Grammy-winning flamenco fusion band Ojos de Brujo; former Mártires de Compás band leader Chico Ocaña who, after years of recording and touring with his band, is now promoting his solo career, backed by Warner and EMI; and singer-songwriter Izä, who released her first album when she was only 18, and 15 years later has finally released her second.

Lenacay Lenacay was founded in 2011 by Ramón Giménez, or ‘El Brujo’, a gitano born on the outskirts of Barcelona. The formation of this group came after the breakup of his former band Ojos de Brujo, one of the best-loved bands to come out of Barcelona, and an undeniable force on the flamenco fusion scene for well over a decade.

After 15 years together, the members of the group went their separate ways and Ramón found himself looking for another project. He says, “The musicians in Lenacay aren’t afraid to try unconventional things in search of an interesting sound. It’s been incredibly exciting mixing flamenco concepts with electric guitar and electronic music.

The sounds work amazingly well together. That may surprise some people, but it just goes to show how all musical genres really are connected.”

Ramón plays flamenco guitar. He also plays midi guitar, programmes electronic beats, and breakdances. As you might guess, Lenacay's live show is a series of surprises. Old-school flamenco mixed with funkified bass, electronic beats, baile flamenco, rumba melodias, and fuzzed-up electric guitars. DJ Panko, the other co-founder of the group, goes by the name ‘El Mago’ and was also a member of Ojos de Brujo.

He plays bass and keyboards, contributes scratch and vocals, and is responsible in large part for the urban aspect of the group’s sound.

Between the two of them, they’ve developed new takes on traditional rhythms, such as ‘scratching por bulerías’ and ‘rumba break’.

The other members of Lenacay are drummer and percussionist, Ramón Meja, lead singer, Paula ‘La Camaleón’, and singer Carolina ‘La Joya’, who is also a flamenco dancer. To round out the configuration is Charlie ‘El Ilusionista’ on funk bass and El Rubio, who plays electric guitar.

Rubio has played and recorded with numerous artists in Barcelona,

including Color Humano, 08001, Canibala, Poet in Process, La Kinky Beat, and artists touring through such as Rosario Flores. “And that’s only a tiny part of the list,” he says with a wink. While Lenacay were in the middle of recording their new album, Yerel, Rubio got a call from yet another artist in need of a guitar player, Chico Ocaña.

Chico Ocaña Ocaña is originally from the town of San Roque in the province of Cádiz. He moved to Seville in the eighties, alternating between playing rock shows and flamenco shows, until he realised that he could combine the best of both worlds in one genre. He founded Mártires del Compás with Kiko Veneno and was self-proclaimed creator of the musical fusion genre ‘Flamenco Billy’.

Mártires del Compás broke up in 2007, 15 years after the release of their first album. Chico released his first solo album Canciones de Mesa Camilla on EMI Records in 2010.

He doesn’t play an instrument, but writes his songs in his head, and then has his collaborators put music behind the rhythms and melodies he’s imagined. “We recorded the album backwards. First we laid down vocals and guitars, then bass and percussion. People said I was nuts, but that’s how the songs were born.” His second solo album is De Piedra, released in September 2014 on Warner Records.

When Chico was looking for an electric guitar player, he put the word out on the street that it didn’t have to be a flamenco guitarist— “which was perfect,” says Rubio, “Because though I’m Andalus and I’m influenced by that music, I’ve never considered myself to be a flamenco player. I’ve always wanted to take advantage of the opportunity to learn from all of the musicians around me, and not to limit the projects I work with based on musical or cultural prejudices.”

Rubio says working with Lenacay and Chico are very different experiences. “Though they both use flamenco as a vehicle through which to make music, neither project is pure flamenco, and neither project resembles the other.”

He says that the difference in the way the businesses of the two groups are handled has to do with the moment that each is in with regards to his career, respectively. “Chico is a big name in Spain. He can ride on his reputation to a point. He’s worked with big record companies and at this stage in his career he’s able to avoid a lot of the irritations that come with handling the business side of things. He can just focus on making music.”

Lenacay is a different story. “They prefer to keep a tight rein on where they are going, both business-wise and musically,” Rubio explains. Taking small but firm steps towards building their fan base is paying off, but it’s a longer road—they’re at a different moment in their career.”

One of Ocaña’s other backing musicians, percussionist Xavi Garcia, met Chico in much the same way that El Rubio did: through a mutual friend who commented to him that Chico was looking for musicians in Barcelona. “As it happened, he was looking for exactly the kind of format that I’d already had for years my in own trio, Calamento—Spanish guitar, cajon, and bass. Add Rubio into the mix, who I’d actually played with before, backing up other artists around

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town, and we had a band. We eventually invited one of the singers that we work with to come into the mix as a backing vocalist—a solo artist with an incredible voice, named Izä.”

Izä Izä is now the backing vocalist for Ocaña. She has her own original music project, but the project that Calamento has with her is another kind of show. “When we work with her, we perform covers from the world of flamenco and rumba,” Xavi says. “Working with her on arrangements of this material is extremely rewarding—her voice is amazing—but it’s also more of an in-house project. We all seek out gigs for the group.”

Xavi met Izä more than four years ago when Pepe, the guitar player for Calamento, had heard her sing in a bar in town and told Xavi he’d come across an incredible voice that would work well with the trio.

Izä is from a town in the countryside around Gibraltar called Los Barrios, and has been living in Barcelona for the past several years. Her first time on a stage was when she was only seven years old, accompanied on guitar by her father. She recorded her first album in 1998, when she was 18, with her band PAAN, after which they went their separate ways and Izä moved to Granada. “There I started to investigate different styles of music and collaborate with musicians in the Granada music scene.” She also learned a lot about flamenco in Granada even when she was experimenting with other styles.

After that she moved to Barcelona, returning to her roots, so to speak, and interpreting traditional songs by Martirio, Camarón, and others.

Izä says the result of this musical journey of self-discovery is her new rumba-influenced album La Llama, released on Dona Cançó records in March 2014. It’s her first album in fifteen years.

THE FANS WHO MIGHT HAVE PREFERRED A GIBSON TO A SPANISH GUITAR BACK IN THE DAY DON'T SEEM TO MIND IF THE BAND'S ROCKING OUT TO A FLAMENCO BEAT. “With Calamento we had a connection ever since the first moment that we met to rehearse,” she notes. “They understood where I was coming from because they play a form of fusion too. They are one of the projects that has influenced me most in my time in Barcelona— especially Pepe Camacho, Calamento’s guitarist, who is like family to me.” She and Calamento have since worked together as a backing band on various musical projects.

If you’re still following this thread of musical interconnectivity, it seems like Barcelona’s varied and vibrant music scene is thriving. But what is it really like to live and work as a musician in BCN? Ramón of Lenacay says although he loves the new technical possibili-

ties that came with the electronic music revolution of the nineties, he misses the musical diversity of the Barcelona of the eighties. “There’s a lot of good flamenco out there—and good indie rock and good pop, you name it—but back in the day there were many more schools of thought. Musicians were into the idea of creating their own sound. Now, a lot of people just copy what they think flamenco or hip hop or even fusion ‘should’ sound like. Still, hopefully this trend will pass, and new generations of musicians to come will realise that you don’t need to try to sound like someone who came before to be respected.”

Lenacay

Still, he’s optimistic about the city’s chances as a live music market.

He says that the public in Barcelona is used to the idea of fusion between flamenco and rumba and other styles, thanks to groups like his.

“Their criteria is high and they know how to listen. This is great for young bands coming up now, who want to try something incorporating traditional music and modern styles. The important thing is that we all keep evolving as musicians, instead of just resting on our laurels in a market that we’ve helped to create. I see a new wave growing in spite of the many challenges.”

Izä seconds that opinion, saying that musically, the audiences in Barcelona are becoming more omnivorous in their tastes. She says that in the past you didn’t see the demographic mix like you do today. “The flamenco fans came to the flamenco shows, the rock fans came to the rock shows. But these days, flamenco fans are more open to the concept of fusion than they might have been previously.” And the fans who might have preferred a Gibson to a Spanish guitar back in the day don’t seem to mind if the band's rocking out to a flamenco beat.

Rubio agrees, saying that “the world of music in Barcelona is very rich. There are interesting projects here that are on a par with anywhere in the world, and the public is more and more open-minded.”

But when it comes to the business side of things, he says that Barcelona has a serious problem. “There is absolutely no support for musical projects here. Live and recorded music seems to have no value at all.

Most of the fault lies with the government. The laws that prohibit busking in the streets, and the resulting massive fines that any project leader would have to pay, the persecution of the small music venues that used to offer live music. There are so many road-blocks in place! It’s like a boycott on culture.”

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Guiri

GUIRI BUSINESS DRINK NETWORKING 2014 Free Drink & Tapas

15th October

Guiri Business Group is a LinkedIn community of 6000 + members designed to facilitate professional networking through the exchange of information, knowledge, contacts, jobs and opportunities.

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FEATURE

THE ARTISTS Lenacay: www.lenacay.com Chico Ocaña: www.chicoocana.com Izä: www.Izämusica.com El Rubio: www.facebook.com/franciscoguisado.rubio Calamento: www.calamento.com

ZA-TAPEANDO with IZÄ AND PEPE CAMACHO Izä, along with musical collaborator Pepe Camacho, the guitarist for Calamento, has also started a series of culinary events called “Za-tapeado”—a play on words that mixes the term for fast and furious flamenco heelwork with the verb for eating tapas. Izä describes Za-tapeado as "a delicious musical concert, a unique gastronomic journey through the various regions of Andalucía through the different rhythms of flamenco.”

Eight traditional Andalusian recipes are paired with eight different flamenco palos. Contact Izä via her Facebook page for more information about their next event. (www.facebook. com/Izämusica).

Chico Ocaña

This has created a solidarity among local musicians that might not exist otherwise. “We’re all in the same boat, whether we play rock or flamenco or something in between,” says Rubio. “There aren’t many people outside of the world of music who can understand how complicated it is to make your living playing music here.”

Izä says that “thanks to the new laws, there are fewer and fewer small music venues in the city. The costs of the licences they’re required to have are so high that it’s impossible for them to keep their doors open.

The musicians of the city are furious and horrified. We don’t know what to do.”

Chico Ocaña says he loves Barcelona’s vibrancy and the passion of the audiences, but echoes the thoughts of his compatriots, saying that in recent years the government’s influence in forcing small music venues into backruptcy has made it difficult city for artists. “The government cares about money, not about culture. But there is still a part of the soul of the city that survives. We’re fighting back against the pull of cheap consumerism.”

Xavi of Calamento says that he tries to just focus on the work, and not to think too much about “how insanely complicated” it is to be a professional musician in Barcelona. He chalks it up to the lack of a workers' union for musicians, which he thinks would improve matters. “I suppose it comes from the often crude quality of the work conditions,” Xavi says. “You have to take what you can get. It’s tough to make a living.

You always have to be out there and active in order to make sure you’re

on people’s radars. Always. You can never rest. It’s hard. But luckily the adrenaline of playing live and the support of the public, and of your fellow musicians, makes it all worthwhile.”

Izä is currently in the process of planning concerts around Spain for winter 2014 and spring 2015, both with Calamento and also in support of her new album. She will also be backing up Chico Ocaña on selected concerts in support of his new album.

Chico’s agent and record label plan to keep him on the road as much as possible for the near future. While he is pragmatic, noting that the economic crisis has seriously damaged the financial support that previously existed for live music on a global scale, he is still hopeful. “There are budget cuts. It’s affected the music business everywhere in the world.

But we do what we have to do and we play as much as we’re able. That’s how this game works.”

Lenacay has tours planned in Italy, Spain, and other parts of Europe, with more tour dates posted all the time. They’re also hoping to tour Latin America in 2015. And Pepe, Ramón, Xavi and El Rubio will continue to do what they have always done: multitask, collaborate with their own musical projects and others’, and play as much as they can, be it in Palau de la Música or in a tiny bar in Gràcia or the Raval.

As Xavi says, “For me, all music work is welcome, and I appreciate every project I’m involved in. Work creates work. The more work the better!” Play on.

TWO INSPIRATIONAL BANDS Ojos de Brujo

Founded in 1998, Ojos de Brujo was a nine-piece band that became a household name in Spain with their second studio album Bari in 2002.

The abum was self-produced and sold over 100,000 copies. The band won a Grammy for their album Techari in 2007. They were one of the first groups to incorporate various 'modern' musical elements with flamenco music. Founding member Ramón Giménez describes their radical fusion music as, "music that just made sense to us". The band went their separate ways in 2011.

MÁRTIRES DEL COMPÁS

Mártires del Compás was formed in 1992 in Seville by Chico Ocaña under the sponsorship of musician Kiko Veneno. The name of their first album, Flamenco Billy, which was released in 1995, became synonomous with their musical style. “Flamenco Billy is different from everything else that’s out there, it’s my own formula,” says Ocaña. “It’s a musical arrangement that is based in orthodox flamenco but it’s invigorated by other musical styles.” The band toured extensively and split up in 2007.

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MUSIC American Reggae’s Strength to Survive

0 editor’s pick

October 14th, 9.30pm. Sala Razzmatazz. Almogàvers 122.

Based in Arlington, Virginia, SOJA is a reggae and dub band whose music tells the traditional roots story, but from a uniquely American perspective. Since the founding of this eight-piece band, SOJA has sold over 200,000 albums and amassed an almost Grateful Dead-like international fanbase that grows with each tour, expanding the caravans of diehards that trail behind them from city to city. The band’s simple and honest approach to music has enabled them to break through obstacles of language, distance and culture. Lead singer/guitarist Jacob Hemphill has said he derives his greatest inspiration from Bob Marley, Sade, Paul Simon, and his dad, and that his purpose with the band is to be limitless, crossing boundaries like the greats that came before them. SOJA got one step closer to living up to such a tall order with their newest release, Strength to Survive. The songs and lyrics of this album make an impassioned call for unity and change, with universally relatable songs about faith, hope and love. Tickets costs €23.

SPANISH GUITAR MASTERS www.maestrosdelaguitarra.com This autumn brings a chance to hear some of the finest contemporary Spanish guitar players, in the Maestros de la Guitarra cycle. October’s concerts kick off with Grammy award-winning David Russell at the Palau on the 1st. Originally from Glasgow, Russell moved to Menorca as a child. He later studied at the Royal College of Music and now resides in Galicia.

Barcelona-born Manuel González will be playing works by Bach, Sor, Rodrigo and Albéniz at both the Palau de la Música and Santa María del Pí. González studied at the Manhattan School of Music under the legendary Cuban classical guitarist Manuel Barrueco and is considered one of the leading Spanish guitar players of our times. Barrueco himself will be giving one concert at the Palau de la Música on October 22nd. González joins forces with two other maestros— Xavier Coll and Luis Robisco—for a series of concerts as The Barcelona Guitar Trio. The trio will perform works by Manuel de Falla, Piazzolla and Paco de Lucía.

Another major talent to look out for is Ekaterina Záytseva. This Russian-born musician now resides in Barcelona and is one of the few female players to be recognised as a true Spanish guitar master. See the website for concert dates and times.

Morrissey solo

October 10th, 8.15pm. Sant Jordi Club. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

For the first time in his solo career, Morrissey will play in Barcelona.

After his five-year stint as The Smiths’ frontman, the Manchester icon continued on alone, turning being lonely into an art form. When asked by Rolling Stone to comment on his state of mind when he’s being creative, he said, “I don’t say this for effect, but I’m never not sad.” And, sadness is key to his bleak, dramatic vignettes about doomed relationships, lonely nightclubs and the burdens of the past, sung in his unusual baritone style. Along with exploring offbeat subject matters for pop, such as male prostitution, speech disorders and fashion designers, Morrissey carved himself a niche as one of the most controversial men in British music. At the Sant Jordi Club, he is sure to play new tracks from his 10th studio album, World Peace is None of Your Business, released on July 15th, along with some of his past classics. General admission tickets are €56.

Tori Sparks

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October 16th, Hard Rock Cafe. Pl. de Catalunya 21.

Join us this Pinktober at the Hard Rock Cafe for a good cause and some great music. Metropolitan is sponsoring this concert in aid of Hard Rock’s Pinktober, a month-long drive to raise funds for breast cancer charities. The very talented Tori Sparks will be leading the night with the release of her new CD El Mar. Playing with her will be local flamenco fusion trio Calamento. Entry is free.

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IN CONCERT Oct 4th. In Flames

Razzmatazz. Carrer dels Almogàvers 122

Oct 8th. Girls Names

Razzmatazz. Carrer dels Almogàvers 122.

Oct 8th. Anathema

Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

Oct. 10th. The Handsome Family Apolo (2). Nou de la Rambla 111.

Oct. 10th. Morrissey

Sant Jordi Club. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

Oct. 10th. George Ezra Bikini. Av. Diagonal 547.

MUSIC ART DRINKS FOOD AND YOU

Oct. 11th. Bicep

Nitsa. Nou de la Rambla 113.

Oct 14th. Kylie Minogue

Sant Jordi Club. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

Oct 14th. SOJA

Razzmatazz. Carrer dels Almogàvers 122.

Plaza Comercial 10, 08003, Barcelona Tel. 93 667 0036 Open Tue-Sun 12pm-3am www.guzzo.es

Oct 16th. Jessica Fichot

Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

Oct 16th. Tori Sparks

Hard Rock Cafe. Plaça de Catalunya 21.

Oct 17th. James Zabiela

Razzmatazz. Carrer dels Almogàvers 122

Oct 18th. LostAlone

Sala BeCool. Pl. Joan Llongueras 5.

Oct 21st. Delta Moon

Rocksound. Almogàvers 116.

Oct 23rd. Ty Segall

Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

Oct 30th. Passenger

Razzmatazz. Carrer dels Almogàvers 122.

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ART Nonument

Until February 8th, 2015. Convent dels Àngels. Pl. Àngels 7.

The MACBA inaugurates its new space in the Convent dels Àngels with this exhibition about cities and monuments.

Who wants a monument? Who legitimises it? What’s the creative process? How does it become rooted in the community and the public sphere? These are some of the questions that are reflected on by 28 artists closely associated with the museum. Monuments must fulfill several criteria: they commemorate an event; they are aesthetically pleasing, and they mean something within the context of the wider city.

The artists examine how these diverse—and typically problematic— façets can be linked and complement each other. The result is a series of new proposals specifically conceived for this exhibition and which show how the tradition of monuments can be reinterpreted through artistic language. These proposals look at the balancing of past and future, of central power and citizens’ participation. Nonument can also be seen as an open laboratory on the proliferation of symbols that are colonising our environment, and a place from which to consider how artists can join the debate.

0 editor’s pick

Carles Casagemas

Ryszard KapuSciNski

The Artist Behind the Myth October 31st-February 22nd, 2015. MNAC. Montjuïc.

The name Carles Casagemas i Coll is frequently cited in relation to other artists, and particularly to Pablo Picasso, yet only one monographic exhibition of the painter and writer’s work has ever been held—in 1979 at the Galeria Daedalus in Barcelona. His suicide at the age of 21 created a myth around the artist that conditioned the way his work is viewed and has, to a certain extent, outshone the artist himself.

Born in Barcelona in 1880, Casagemas was best known for his friendship with Picasso. They were constant companions during their formative years and moved to Paris together in 1901. It was here that Casagemas shot himself, apparently the result of an unrequited love. His death had an enormous impact on the young Picasso and is thought to have been part of the impetus for Picasso’s melancholy Blue Period. The aim of this exhibition is to move beyond the myth and confirm the artist’s place in national and international art history for his skill and sensibility.

The exhibition includes most of the small number of surviving paintings by the artist. Many are pastels and water paintings, but there are also several landscapes in oil. The artist’s sombre character seems reflected in the portraits, which include the occasional humorous caricature but mostly depict the misery of society’s old, infirm or outcasts.

The Decline of the Empire Until November 11th. Palau de la Virreina. La Rambla 99.

The acclaimed Polish photo journalist Ryszard Kapuscinski spent two years (1989-1991) travelling around the former Soviet Union, documenting its people and landscapes. He planned to organise an exhibition of his photographs and carefully selected and stored a number of them in brown envelopes, where they remained for nearly ten years until they were found in his private archive.

The Decline of the Empire is a collection of some of these photographs.

It was first shown in the Galería Nacional de Arte Zacheta in Warsaw in 2010 and comprised of 50 of the many hundreds of photographs that Kapuscinski had taken on his journey. These 50 images were selected by one of Poland’s top graphic editors, Izabela Wojciechowska, who was in charge of managing Kapuscinski’s photographic legacy. She also incorporated some photographs taken by the photographer on a 1979 journey to his native Pinsk, bringing a very personal dimension to the show.

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ART PICKS OPENING Fundació Miró Barcelona, zona neutral. A look at the city’s creative output during the four years of the First World War. From October 21st.

Montjuïc.

La Pedrera El Lissitzy. L’experiència de la totalitat. This exhibition is dedicated to the work of painter, designer, architect and photographer El Lissitzky, a key figure of the Russian avant-garde. From October 21st.

Provença 261-265.

MACBA Carol Rama. This avant-garde artist’s work has been largely forgotten. This exhibition looks at her explorations of desire and the sub-conscious. From October 30th.

Pl. dels Àngels 1.

Last chance Fundació Antoni Tàpies Kerry James Marshall. Photography, sculpture, prints and installations by the contemporary US artist. Until October 24th.

Aragó 255.

MEAM Una Mica d’Escultura. 300 examples of 20th-century sculpture.

Until October 10th.

Barra del Ferro 5.

Museu del Modernisme Amb ulls de dona. A retrospective of Lluisa Vidal, one of the few women in the Modernista art scene. Until October 5th.

Balmes 48.

Mitte Barcelona Dance & Roll. An exhibition that combines art, skate and dance.

Until October 10th.

Bailén 86.

Artevistas Ral: Naked Under Skin. A collection of intimate portraits by Spanish artist Rai. Until October 5th: Ptge. del Crèdit 4.

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BEST OF THE REST

0 editor’s pick

SALÓN DEL MANGA

October 30th-November 2nd. Fira de Barcelona. www.ficomic.com Barcelona’s Salón del Manga has been going strong now since 1995. Last year it doubled in size and this year’s 20th edition promises to be bigger still, taking over a record 50,000m2 of the Fira de Barcelona.

Cosplay features high on the bill this year. For the uninitiated, cosplay involves dressing up and roleplaying as your favourite Manga character. On October 31st, 150 ‘cosplayers’ will be competing in the cosplay competition, which is part of the World Cosplay Summit. There will also be different workshops, including manga for adults and children, Japanese cooking and an anime song contest. Visitors can enjoy films, exhibitions and a video game area and, if it all gets too much, they can take quiet refuge in the meditation space.

This year’s fair will host some major players from the world of Manga, including Takehiko Inoue (Slam Dunk and Vagabond), Kengo Hawazawa (I am a Hero), Takeshi Obata (All You Need is Kill, Death Note and Bakuman) and Ken Niiumura, a Spanishborn author who now resides in Tokyo and who has become a reference figure in the field.

Entry for one day costs €7. A four-day pass costs €20.

Beefeater In-edit

Mercat de Mercats

October 23rd-November 2nd. www.in-edit.org It’s a golden age for the musical documentary genre—the last two Oscars for Best Documentary went to Searching for Sugarman and Twenty Feet from Stardom, both screened at the In-Edit Beefeater Festival. Now in its 12th edition, this musical documentary festival remains true to its original aim: to present viewers with the most outstanding films in the genre. The festival takes place over ten days in three of the city’s cinemas. Highlights from this year include: Greg Oliver’s Johnny Winter: Down & Dirty, an intimate portrait of the Texas musician and blues legend; I Am Divine by Jeffrey Schwarz, which tells the story of the silver screen’s most outrageous drag queen; Matt O’Casey’s documentary of the life of Mike Oldfield in Tubular Bells: The Mike Oldfield Story; As the Palaces Burn, the dark story about metal group Lamb of God, whose singer, Randy Blythe, was accused of murder, and Nick Hall’s I Need a Dodge, which documents Joe Strummer’s secret days in Granada, when he abandoned the Clash to escape his depression and the mounting pressures of life in the band.

This year, the festival pays tribute to Dutch film-maker and producer Frank Scheffer with the projection of five of his works. Scheffer’s varied filmography includes classical and electronic music, the analysis of different artists such as Frank Zappa, and many other genres.

Running alongside the festival, there will be an In-Edit Radio Show, a live concert, and Best of Bug, a selection of the most innovative, brilliant and inspirational music videos being made around the world.

See the website for the full programme and ticket prices.

October 17th-19th, 11am-9pm (Sunday until 8pm).

Av. de la Catedral. www.somdemercat.cat/ca/mercat-de-mercats The best of Barcelona’s market stalls come together in October to show their wares at the fifth annual edition of Mercat de Mercats, a gastronomic festival that celebrates the art of good, wholesome, local food. All the city’s food markets are represented, with individual stalls from each pitching their tasty wares. The market is divided into six distinct areas— the sommelier cellar, market stalls, tapas and the cooking school—and many local food and wine producers will be taking part, as well as a number of city bars and restaurants.

Each day there will be talks, workshops and tasting sessions with local chefs and wine experts. A must for anyone interested in learning more about local cuisine.

Entry is free, with a range of ticket prices for tapas and drinks.

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Oktoberfest

www.oktoberfest-barcelona.es October 3rd-12th, Fira de Barcelona.

Celebrate the Oktoberfest in true German style at Barcelona’s very own Oktoberfest. This annual celebration of Bavarian amber nectar is held in huge tents at the Fira de Barcelona, where visitors can pass the hours supping cold Paulaner beer in arm-aching litre glasses. Get there on October 3rd at 5pm and you can enjoy the inauguration ceremony when the first barrel of beer is opened to cries of ‘O ‘zapftis!’. There’s plenty of traditional fare on offer, such as pretzels, roast chicken and German sausages, and Polka bands and DJ Xavi More will be playing regularly throughout the festival. A large children’s area with activities is on hand to keep young ones and their parents happy. The Oktoberfest is free to enter but it’s advisable to make a table reservation—you can do this for free on the website.

Until October 12th. Hotel Princesa Sofia. Pl de Pius XII 4.

The Biergarten at the Princesa Sofia hotel is also celebrating Oktoberfest. Until October 12th, visitors can try some traditional foods such as Weisswurst, Bratwurst, Wiener and Rosenheimer sausages. On Sunday, October 5th and 12th there will be live music.

48h Open House Barcelona

October 25th-26th. www.48hopenhousebarcelona.org Now in its fifth year, 48H Open House Barcelona forms part of the worldwide Open House initiative, which seeks to open up outstanding architecture for all to experience, and to encourage dialogue about urban space.

For two days, visitors get the chance to take a look inside over 150 buildings around the city. These range from apartments on Pg. de Gràcia to hotels, schools, libraries, shops and private homes, and encompass from Roman ruins to contemporary architecture, Catalan Gothic, Neoclassic, Modernista and Modern. Architects and volunteers will be on hand to offer more information about the buildings.

Although entry to every building is free, anyone who doesn’t feel like queuing (inevitable in some of the most popular buildings) can buy a pass that gives them priority entrance (€35 for a day or €50 for the weekend).

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MASTERS OF JAZZ Jazz concert.

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Torobaka

MONDAY

Tap Factory

9 PEDALEADA AT THE W Join a mass spinning class to raise funds for UNICEF.

DESDE BERLIN Musical tribute to Lou Reed.

8.30pm. Teatre Romea. Hospital

KLICK KLICK Barcelona’s annual Salón Erótico.

2nd-5th. Pabellón de Vall d’Hebron

MORRISSEY See page 20.

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TOROBAKA Contemporary dance from the Akram Khan Company.

8.30pm. Mercat de les Flors.

Lleida 59. (until 5th)

MACBA SE VIVE Alvarez and the Coral Bistuer.

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POETRY SLAM Poetry slam concert in Pati de les Dones. Free entry.

6pm. CCCB. Montalegre 5.

SWING SESSION Dancing in the foyer with music by the Stradixies.

4pm-5.45pm. MNAC. Palau Nacional. Montjuïc.

BARCELONA IMPROV GROUP A battle between two teams of comedy improvisers.

8.30pm. Tinta Roja. Molers 17.

SWAB BARCELONA International contemporary art fair.

2nd-5th. Fira de Barcelona.

LIBER 2014 International book fair.

1st-3rd. Fira de Barcelona.

PHARRELL WILLIAMS 9.30pm. Sant Jordi Club. Pg Olímpic 5-7.

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SATURDAY

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FRIDAY

2

THURSDAY

FLEA MARKET 11am-8pm. Portal Santa Ma-

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LOGAN MURRAY A comedy workshop/show by the London-based comedian.

8.30pm. Las Cuevas del Sorte.

Gignàs 2.

INTERNATIONAL OPEN MIC NIGHT 8pm. Almazén. Guifré 9.

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SUNDAY

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

For more information visit our website

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WEDNESDAY

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TUESDAY

What's ON OCTOBER 2014

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CUBAN DANCES Pianist Maria Lilia Cano plays a selection of Cuban dances.

8.30pm. Casa Elizalde. Valencia 302.

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Opera y flamenco

SITGES FILM FESTIVAL See page 33.

Sitges. (3rd-12th)

MANUEL BARRUECO The legendary Cuban classical guitarist with the Beijing Guitar Duo. See page 20.

9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

DELTA MOON Blues-infused American roots from this band from Atlanta, Georgia.

8pm. Rocksound. Almogàvers 116.

Passenger

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TAP FACTORY Urban tap dance and percussion from this internationally renowned group.

15th-26th. Teatre Barts. Av. Paral·lel 62.

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Pharrell Williams

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The Original Wailers

SOJA See page 20.

9.30pm. Sala Razzmatazz. Almogàvers 122.

KYLIE Kiss Me Once tour 8.30pm. Sant Jordi Club. Pg Olímpic 5-7.

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OKTOBERFEST See page 25.

Fira de Barcelona. 3rd-12th.

DESDE BERLIN MASTERS OF JAZZ Musical tribute to Lou Reed.

Jazz concert.

8.30pm. JazzSí Club. Requesens 2. 8.30pm. Teatre Romea. Hospital 51. Until Oct 19th.

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the rocky horror picture show Screening of the classic 8pm. Almazén. Guifré 9.

MANGA FAIR See page 24.

30th-2nd. Fira de Barcelona.

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URBAN BEERS MEETUP BARCELONA A forum to share ideas about the future of the city, including sustainability and design.

CCCB. Montalegre 5.

BEEFEATER IN-EDIT The music documentary festival begins today.

See page 24.

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Kylie

Chicago

JV & 2moons Rock, blues, funk, reggae and jazz.

10pm. Harlem Jazz Club.

Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

PEDALEADA AT THE W Join a mass spinning class to raise funds for UNICEF. W Hotel. Sign up at www.dir.cat/pedalejaperunicef

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THE BLUES PRISONERS Blues in the museum.

6pm. MEAM. Barra de Ferro 5.

PASSENGER Razzmatazz. Almogàvers 122.

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Kid Ink

CROSSING LINES Cutting edge music from the acclaimed Spanish contemporary music quartet.

8pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.

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JAQUES MORELENBAUM CELLO SAMBA TRIO See page 7.

9pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.

OPENING OF gay & lesbian fILm festival The last straight man by Mark Bessenger.

9.30pm. Filmoteca. Pl. Salvador Seguí. (Festival runs until 26th)

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MUSIC AND CINEMA Pianist Jordi Sabatés performs music to a silent film by Segundo de Chomón.

8pm. Recinte Modernista Sant Pau. Antoni Maria Claret 167.

MORRISSEY See page 20.

Sant Jordi Club. Pg Olímpic 5-7.

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48H Open HouSe BCN See page 25.

25th-26th. At venues around the city.

BEETHOVEN CONCERT Josep Maria Colom plays Beethoven’s 7th Symphony and the Emperor Concerto.

6pm. El Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.

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MERCAT DE MERCATS See page 24.

Avinguda de la Catedral. (also17th & 19th)

RAVAL: COSMPOLITAN TERRITORY Itinerary on foot.

10am. CCCB. Montalegre 5.

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demanoenmano Barcelona’s monthly itinerant vintage market.

(11th & 12th) 11am-9pm. CCCB

MACBA SE VIVE Alvarez and the Coral Bistuer.

MACBA. Pl. dels Ángels 1.

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Flamenguiri perdía US comedian, musician and performer, Rachel Arieff presents her new show.

10pm. Gipsy Lou. Ferlandina 55.

OPERA Y FLAMENCO A sensual performance of music and choreography.

9.30pm, Palau de la Música.

Palau de la Música 4-6.

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LINDY IN THE PARK Open dance session at the bandstand in Parc de la Ciutadella.

6pm-8.30pm.

CURSA DE LA DONA Join this fun run in aid of breast cancer research.

Sign up at www.carreradelamujer.com

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THE TROJAN HORSE AND LITTLE HELEN Puppet show 12pm & 5pm. La Puntual. Allada Vermell 15.

FLEA MARKET 11am-8pm. Portal Santa Madrona. www.fleamarketbcn.com

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History Under Foot The Saga of the Stones that Paved Barcelona.

By SAM ZUCKER

The six most common street tiles of Barcelona

O

f the countless steps that can be taken through the alleyways and avenues of Barcelona, how many are contemplated in terms of their historical significance? Some of the most subtle history of Modernista Barcelona is not in the obsessive details of the towering Sagrada Familia, nor in the undulating façades of the decadent monoliths of Passeig de Gràcia. On the contrary, a rich story can be found humbly underfoot on nearly every faded, cracked, or worn street corner of central Barcelona.

To understand the importance and trajectory of panots—decorative concrete slabs used to pave much of Barcelona’s sidewalks (baldosas in Spanish)—one must step back to a period between 1834 and 1860 when the city was enclosed by high stone walls and the population of Ciutat Vella was so dense that epidemics killed off about three percent of the population with each outbreak.

Something had to be done, so in 1854 the city began tearing down the old wall and announced that they were holding a contest for urban planning proposals to expand Barcelona and bring it into the modern, industrial age. The City Hall’s contest was won by Ildefons Cerdà i Sunyer, Catalan engineer, urbanist, economist, and politician. Originally entitled Plan Cerdà, the proposal—launched in 1859—sought to expand the city with the new area of the Eixample (the ‘Widening’). Above all, Cerdà wanted the Eixample to provide space for people to breathe, with 45-degree-angled corners at every street intersection, and interior gardens to be shared by neighbours. His grid pattern further sought to eliminate status and create an egalitarian community with space for workers and wealthy alike.

However, this mission was lost to the grandiose works of Gaudí, Domènech i Muntaner, and Puig i Cadafalch (among others), who were commissioned to build homes by Barcelona’s elite. Their spectacular buildings branded the zone in the vicinity of Passeig de Gràcia as the high-rent district and property prices throughout the area were impacted by their proximity to the opulent avenue.

A tiny interior design element of one such building, Casa Amatller, would lead to the now-emblematic aesthetic symbol of Barcelona’s largest neighbourhood and the entire Catalan Modernista movement itself.

Built for the famous chocolate-producing family Amatller, by Modernista architect Puig i Cadafalch in 1900, the house features a carriage entryway paved with small stones with the form of a rose engraved on their surface. This was a small, insignificant element of a spectacular work of architecture and design, but it served as inspiration several years later for designers when various companies bid to carry out the paving of the newly-created Eixample. Today, the ‘Rose of Barcelona’ is one of the most visible icons of the Modernista Era. In 1907, the Barcelona Ajuntament began accepting bids for the paving contract of this rapidly growing neighbourhood. Originally, property owners would pave the 2.5 metres in front of their buildings themselves, using asphalt, stone or concrete, upon approval. This unregulated, unorganised paving led to chaotic, mud-filled streets and the nickname of Can Fanga (‘The Mud House’) for Barcelona, leading to the derogatory term, fanguers, still used occasionally to refer to the city’s residents.

The Ajuntament specified their needs to the potential developers: 10,000 square metres of paving stones, each 20cm x 20cm x 4cm, for a total cost of less than 50,000 pesetas. The bid was won by the company Escofet-Tejera y Cía, whose catalogue of products featured contributions by the most famous designers of the times (Gaudí, Domènech i Montaner, and Puig i Cadafalch, among them). The Ajuntament also included 18 design ideas for the city’s paving stones in their project outline, from which came the six principle patterns that we see today, including the rose, now seen on everything from bags, purses, clothing, jewellery and chocolate bars to local business’ logos.

The paving initiative got underway in 1916, and over the last 100 years, the continuous development of Barcelona and the surrounding

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areas has led to over five million square metres of panots in the city. Besides the principle six, there are many other designs used throughout the urban environment for both aesthetic and functional purposes (such as the version with four raised bars that indicates pedestrian crossings and bus stops to the blind).

The paving tiles themselves are made from what is referred to as ‘hy-

the intended seven-piece pattern, the students’ #SOSPanotGaudi campaign resulted in real action by the city. By May 2014, replacement of the offending tiles began.

Next time you are out for a stroll, glance downward. In this bustling city, nothing beats walking the wide sidewalks of the Eixample and the narrow lanes of the Gótic, taking in Barcelona’s rich history from the ground up. Throughout the past century, the city has changed immensely and, just like the Roman ruins, Gothic churches, Medieval alley ways, and Modernista masterpieces we cherish, the paving stones of Eixample are a historic treasure, right below our very feet. With countless years of use, numerous design innovations, and many generations of local producers, the panots of Barcelona may not make your steps lighter, but they certainly give them meaning.

Products embossed with the ‘rose’ of Barcelona at Bosses de Pell Calpa on Carrer de Ferran

draulic cement’, also known as Portland Cement, named for the Isle of Portland in Dorset, England, a region known for its limestone building stones. A mixture of concrete, mortar, and stucco created in the 19th century, the cement was classified as hydraulic because of the material’s quality of extreme hardening through chemical reaction when mixed with water, which provided the strong, cheap, consistent product still used today.

While Escofet-Tejera y Cía was the first, and sole, producer of these original paving stones, a handful of companies now share equally the task of producing the city’s six principle paving stones, plus many additional models for urban and suburban use.

No talk of tiles in Barcelona would be complete without a nod towards the legendary Antoni Gaudí. If you have ever walked on Passeig de Gràcia, you would recognise in an instant the intricate, swirling, under-thesea-themed mosaic motif that blankets the expansive sidewalks all the way from Plaça de Catalunya to Jardinets de Gràcia. These identical hexagonal tiles—which require seven individual pieces to be laid to complete the full pattern—were originally designed by Gaudí and produced

by Escofet in 1904 for the interior of his iconic Casa Batlló. However, they were instead placed, two years later, inside the nearby Casa Milà (La Pedrera).

In 1976, Gaudí’s indoor tiles were redesigned—again by Escofet—for outdoor use, resulting in the paving of the entire Passeig de Gràcia in blue-green beauties. Due to their high risk of breakage and general wear, the city upgraded the tiles in 1997 and fully replaced them in 2001 with smaller, thicker, more compact versions that were sturdy, cheap, and nonslip. Sadly, the magical hue and detail of the original pieces was lost.

Nevertheless, this simplification of the Gaudí tile hasn’t stopped regular theft of these little gems of design history by those who want to lift a bit of Barcelona.

In fact, between 2009 and 2011, the city spent a stunning €150,000 to replace stolen or broken street tiles along Passeig de Gràcia, with an interesting result. Early in 2014, a group of five art history students from the University of Barcelona began a campaign pressuring the city to fix all instances of incorrectly-laid Gaudí tiles along the famous street. Turning to social media to pinpoint the exact location of the tiles that disrupt

The original ‘rose’ tiles of Barcelona. Casa Amatller. 1900

,

5 places to go tile spotting 1. Passeig de Gràcia between Gran Via and Diputació (on the right side of the street if going uptown) is where you can see some of the last original Gaudí street tiles.

2. Diputació has pretty much all of the tiles. If you walk from Passeig de Gràcia towards Plaça d’Espanya on Diputació you are bound to see even the oldest ones, (on the side of the street closest to Gran Vía).

3. Escofet 1866 was at Ronda Universitat 20. It’s now a Woki Organic Market but you can see the original Modernista-era façade.

4. At Passeig de Gràcia 41, you can see the original rose tiles in the entryway of Casa Amatller. Open to the public.

5. At the Jaume 1 metro stop, by the Laietana pedestrian crossing between Plaça de l’Àngel and Carrer de la Bòria, you can see the old street name tiles, on the Gótic side.

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ESCAPE THE CITY Take a trip by moto into the exclusive hills of Barcelona.

By Christopher finnigan. illustration by hayley cantor.

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pproximately 300,000 trips are made every day on two-wheeled vehicles in Barcelona. That’s 45 percent of all journeys made on the city’s roads. Barcelona has the highest number of motorbikes and scooters per capita than any other European city and most of these are not monster-sized Harley-Davidsons, but scooters, or as they are locally known, motos.

Catalunya’s love affair with the scooter runs pretty deep—Marc Marquez, the current motocross world champion is from Lleida and the Gothic Quarter even has a motorcycle museum—and the number of two-wheeled vehicles may continue to grow here as the range of motos buzzing around the streets looks set to diversify. The Ajuntament is pushing forward with creating more recharging points for electric-powered bikes. Currently there are 262 locations where you can recharge your

battery-powered scooter (an 80 percent charge can get you thirty minutes of drive time).

The advantages of these small-engine vehicles are many. They’re cheap, quick, the parking’s free, they allow you to beat the traffic, and a legislative change in 2004 means that a driver with a standard driving licence (technically known as Licence B), who has at least three years’ experience, can drive a scooter with an engine of up to 125cc.

Convenience isn’t the only advantage. Investing in a moto—even for just a day—allows you to enjoy areas of the city that are difficult to get around on foot or by public transport, namely, Pedralbes, San Gervasi and Sarriá.

Once you cross the seven-lanes of Diagonal, the city’s streets quickly become uninvitingly steep and continue to incline until reaching the peaks of Tibidabo and Collserola. While serviced by the metro and local barri buses, ambling around on foot here is tiring, sticky and, with mazelike roads, often confusing. A day on a scooter, however, lets you reach this illustrious part of Barcelona and gawk at the mansions of business owners and footballers while travelling at a steady 30kmh.

Now wealthy residential areas, all three barris were once self-contained Medieval villages that have long since been absorbed by the urban sprawl

,

MORE INFO. RENTING

BUYING

You don’t need to own a moto to get a taste of life on two wheels. Provided you have your driving licence to hand and a credit card for the deposit, you can rent a scooter for as little as €25 a day, plus fuel.

Cooltra (www.cooltra.com) in the Eixample offers a reliable selection of different bikes. The image conscious can get themselves an iconic Vespa at Via Vespa (www.via-vespa.com) in the Born for an hourly rate of €9. And, the environmentally conscious can opt for an electric scooter from Green Electric Moto (www. greenelectricmoto.com), also based in the Eixample, for as little as €33 a day.

If you do want to fork out for your own moto you can dive into the huge online world of second-hand scooters. A vehicle with 15,000km on the clock could cost anything from €400 upwards, but make sure you get the brakes checked in a local garage before handing over the cash. The websites www.solo-motos.com and www.moto.coches.net offer the most comprehensive listings. If it’s a brand new scooter that you’re after, the stores TotMoto (Còrsega 380, near Verdaguer metro) and Via Scooter (Avinguda Vallcarca 69, near Park Guëll) have a big selection, starting at around €1,300.

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Investing in a moto—even for just a day—allows you to enjoy areas of the city that are difficult to get around on foot or by public transport

below. Leaving Diagonal at Zona Universitaria will take you into Pedralbes, where seven-storey apartment blocks are replaced by classic Catalan villas of terracotta stone roofs and ivy-strewn walls. Passeig de la Reina Elisenda is home to the imposing American consulate and is mostly deserted, unlike the bustling streets at sea-level. This area hosts many other consulates and its streets contain some of the city’s most oppulent manors, many of which are now home to international schools.

Within this area is one of the city’s most visually rich and historically intriguing sites, the Reial Monestir de Pedralbes.

The Monastery is up a long stone drive which leads uphill (as always) to a secluded entrance. Founded in 1327 by Reina Elisenda, the monastery was designed for a female order of nuns called the Callrisens. Within these superbly preserved walls, widows would retire from society in order to serve God, in accordance with 1263 monastic regulations of total seclusion. Pedralbes means ‘white stone’ in Catalan, and there is an enormous Gothic cloister in the centre of the monastery with sandstone arches, bordering a collection of orange trees and small birdbaths. For four euros you can wander around the impressive permanent exhibition.

Nipping around on a moto also means you can venture into Sarriá for lunch. The area, independent until 1921, is home to much of the city’s wealth and to Bar Tomás (Major de Sarrià 49), widely known to serve the best patatas bravas in town. The area has several small art galleries and gourmet pizza bars and is at its quietest at the weekend.

After lunch, set off for a final stop and a stretch of the legs on the Carretera de les Aigües on Collserola—you’ll need an engine bigger than 50cc for this steep incline. Take a stroll along this unpaved dirt road, a popular running route that wraps around the mountain for 10 kilometres, and enjoy the unrivaled panoramic views of the city below.

Don’t forget that you can’t leave the city on your 125cc scooter so stopping before Diagonal turns into the B23 motorway is essential. And, of course, every bike has space for two, so there’s no need to discover another part of Barcelona alone.

Keep safe!

Scooters have a notoriously bad safety record. Of the 22 deaths from road accidents last year in Barcelona, half the victims were riding either a motorbike or scooter. Two-wheeled vehicles were involved in 37.2 percent of all accidents that occurred in the city.

DON’T FORGET THESE GOLDEN RULES 1. Don’t zigzag between cars.

2. Leave a safe stopping distance between you and the vehicle in front.

3. Don’t run red lights.

4. Indicate all your manoeuvres 5. Avoid accident hotspots. A consistently high number of accidents take place at the following five intersections: Diagonal and Passeig de Gràcia, Diagonal and Balmes, Diagonal and Pau Claris, Gran Via and Passeig de Gràcia, and Gran Via and Marina.

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SUSPENSE IN SITGES The FILM FESTIVAL IS BACK FOR ANOTHER YEAR OF FANTASY AND HORROR.

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naugurated in 1968, the Festival Internacional de Cinema Fantàstic de Catalunya (commonly known as the Sitges Film Festival), is the world’s foremost fantasy and horror film festival.

For 10 days in October over 130,000 movie lovers will descend upon the town to enjoy a packed programme of screenings.

These will take place in five venues, from the old-fashioned and intimate El Retiro cinema to the red carpet glamour at the festival’s nerve centre, the Hotel Meliá in Aiguadolç. And, should you decide to join the throngs, you may even get to rub shoulders with the good and the great of the movie world.

Quentin Tarantino, David Lynch, Vin Diesel and Anthony Hopkins are among the illustrious rolecall of visitors to have attended the festival in recent years.

This year’s festival promises to be as suspense-filled and gory as ever, with supernatural horror weighing heavily among the films. Sinister offerings include Gerard Johnstone’s Housebound and The Badabook by Jennifer Kent. Zombie-flick fans will enjoy some black humour with Benjamin Rocher and Thierry Poiraud’s Goal of the Dead and Zombeavers.

The programme also features a number of Asian films, such as Live, from Dead Sushi director Noboru Iguchi. Guru of visual effects, Pablo Helman, will be giving a master class and there will be no shortage of classics with William Friedkin’s 1977 film Sorcerer and a remake of H.G. Clouzot’s The Wages of Fear.

The word ‘horror’ may have disappeared from the festival’s title, but some traditions never die. On Saturday 11th, after some edge-of-the-seat movie watching, head to Sant Sebastiá beach where you can get your face painted zombie-style at the free make-up zone. At 8.30pm, join hundreds of other zombies at the Pl. de l’Ajuntament for the ghoulish Zombie Walk around the town. Then follow the crowds down to Carrer Dos de Maig (aka Carrer del Pecado) and party hard til the wee hours. The perfect end to a horror-filled day.

October 3rd-12th www.sitgesfilmfestival.com

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TRAVEL Sleeping Beauties Adorned with autumn colours, NOW Is the perfect time to visit the lava-laden volcanic park of Garrotxa. By CAROL MORAN

W

ith approximately 40 volcanoes and 20 lava flows, the landlocked comarca of La Garrotxa must have once resembled a near-apocalyptic scene, some time between 700,000 and 10,000 years ago.

Today, this now-dormant mass of magma belongs to the Parc Natural de la Zona Volcà nica de la Garrotxa, the most prominent volcanic landscape on the Iberian Peninsula. Situated at the foot of the Pyrenees in the province of Girona, this fertile expanse of volcanic soil and conical forms is home to 1178 species of flowering plants, 261 vertebrate animals, and holm oak and beech forests. Add some wonderful walks, ancient settlements and the odd urban legend to the mix, and you’ve got a fine destination for a weekend (or more) in the Catalan countryside...

The craters of Croscat and Santa Margarida.

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Hotfoot it Visitors to the park can discover this varied volcanic landscape on foot by following many walking routes signposted throughout the park, part of the Itinerànnia network of hiking trails that stretches over 2,500 kilometres in the north of Catalunya. Plan your route on the website (en. itinerannia.net) or download the app to help you on your way. The following three points of interest combine to make an ideal one-day circular trek (11km), primarily following the itinerary 15 footpath.

Croscat If you’ve ever wondered what the inside of a volcano looks like, this is probably the safest way to find out! Measuring 160m, Croscat is the highest volcano in the area, part of which was quarried until the early 1990s. The quarry cut a clean slice out of this Strombolian volcano, leaving its innards open for exploration, much to the delight of geologists and tourists alike. This geological cross-section adds a unique dimension to a beautiful hike around Croscat’s horseshoe-shaped crater.

Santa Margarida This wide, meadow-filled crater is formed in a perfect circle and makes for excellent picnic territory, surrounded by lush forests. At its centre lies a Romanesque church, the curious hermitage of Santa Margarida, and the volcano’s namesake.

Fageda d’en Jordà Life’s a beech in the Fageda d’en Jordà, a beautiful forest located within the volcanic national park, 4km from Olot. Where once lava flowed from Croscat, this beech forest has grown up at the unusually low altitude of 550-650m above sea level, and covers an area of about 4.8km2.

A source of inspiration for many (including Catalan poet, Joan Maragall, who wrote a famous verse in its honour), the forest is spectacular at this time of year when it becomes an awesome mass of autumn colours, ideal for an afternoon stroll, with some good photo opportunities for those so inclined.

Float on We might all have Google earth, but nothing quite beats the first-hand experience of floating above the earth’s crust, pimpled with volcanoes, following the topographical twists and turns of this remarkable land-

scape, and the beauty of its natural colours. You’ll be full of hot air after a scenic balloon ride with Vol de Coloms (www.voldecoloms.cat), an opportunity to catch the most impressive views in the most relaxing manner.

Getting there: Parc Natural Zona Volcànica de la Garrotxa is 114km from Barcelona and is best reached by car, giving you the flexibility to explore the area once there. Alternatively, bus company, Teisa, runs up to five services per day from Barcelona to Olot (two hours, 15 mins), passing through Besalú (one hour, 40 mins) and Castellfollit de la Roca (one hour, 50 mins). An express bus service to Olot is also available.

Tickets must be purchased in advance from the Teisa office (Pau Claris 117, open Mon-Fri 8.30am-3pm, 4.30pm-8.30pm, Sat 9am-3pm) and buses leave from the junction of Pau Claris with Consell del Cent.

Eating: You’re in for a treat when it comes to regional fare in Garrotxa.

The volcanic topography makes fertile soil for earthy ingredients and a rich gastronomic tradition. Chefs of Garrotxa are passionate about local cuisine made using local produce, and even formed a group in 1994, called Cuina Volcànica, to represent this ideology.

For some great post-hike grub at a reasonable price, tuck in to hearty country cuisine at Restaurant Hostal dels Ossos, located between Croscat and Olot (€). Sample the famous fesols de Santa Pau–haricot beans in various guises–at Cal Sastre in the heart of the Medieval village (€€). Or, if you’re serious about your posh nosh (and feeling flush), indulge in contemporary Catalan dishes at Michelin-starred Cal’enric, a long-standing family-run establishment in La Vall de Bianya, or the 18-course tasting menu at chic, two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Cols, on the outskirts of Olot (€€€).

Sleeping: If you’re looking for a VIP stay to complement a singular dining experience, Les Cols has a handful of truly unique pavilions designed by local architects, RCR. At the other end of the scale, be at one with nature at Camping La Fageda, or pick the perfect village location on a budget at Hotel Comte Tallaferro or Hotel 3 Arcs in Besalú. And for rustic country charm try the boutique B&B, Mas Can Batlle, near Santa Pau, or sleep amidst the seismic activity at El Ventós, an idyllic rural retreat lost within the natural park itself. Restaurant Hostal dels Ossos and Cal Sastre also offer accommodation.

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REVIEW OAXACA this mexican eaterie in the born offers top-notch, Authentic mexican food.

By Tara Stevens.

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few weeks ago, I was ambling in the direction of Barceloneta, minding my own business, when I happened upon Oaxaca Restaurant and Mezcaleria under the colonnades of the stately Passeig de Marítim right next to 7 Portes. Above the door a hitherto unknown (to me) chef ’s name, Joan Bagur, stands proud in black and white, and further investigation on Google tells me he hails from Menorca but spent the last few years in Mexico, working with the venerable Diana Kennedy (Mexico’s answer to Elizabeth David or, for Spanish readers, Penelope Casas) who is still alive and kicking, and head chef at Carmen Ramírez’s legendary Titita, in Mexico city. That’s some serious pedigree, certainly enough to turn my head and so, a few nights later, I gathered up a couple of friends known for their love of a good Margarita and we gave it a whirl. Bagur as it turns out is, in fact, an absent, executive chef, but he’s certainly imparted the ‘knowledge’. Not since a tequila-strewn road trip down Baja California back in the early noughties have I eaten anything quite so deeply authentic.

I tend to think of Mexican in terms of tequila shots and tacos, but this whole experience opens a window into a rather more grown-up approach On the terrace, colonial-style tan leather armchairs suggest the lobby of a snazzy new boutique hotel, but within it’s all poured concrete floors and wacky posters against ruby-red, glass heart pendants dangling above chunky, tree-trunk table tops, and a sturdy Mezcal bar where you can drink your way through some 200 different strains of the stuff. I tend to

malt, another sweetly aromatic, the third mellow and mild. Then we dive into Margaritas that come in those chunky, blue-rimmed, stemmed bowls that never fail to raise a smile. Add a smoky and hot, roasted vegetable pounded with chilli salsa in a giant pestle and mortar and served with ear-shatteringly crisp corn chips and it occurs to me that it might be the most delicious thing I’ve eaten so far this year. My friends concur. We call for more Margaritas.

A seabass ceviche is laden with velvety avocado, and is soothing rather than sharp after the chips and dip. It comes sprinkled with pea shoots, that lend freshness and vigour, and make a good counterpart to a rather more robust dish of carnitas—think firey, porky goodness—wrapped up in steaming, blue-corn tortillas. We have buttery cochinillo (suckling pork) pibil—a speciality of the Yucatan—that is slowly braised with smoky achiote chillies, sweet orange juice and oregano to create an unusual, but richly layered dish, that comes away as the tenderest pulled pork ever.

And then there were the dinosaur bones. Or so they seemed to us. Think the shin of cow, split in two lengthways and baked until the marrow is soft and gooey, and then anointed with a piquant green chilli sauce. This is not a dish for the faint of heart, and it’s not one you can cover with the searing heat of an industrially made salsa and pretend its something else, but if you open your heart and mind to it, it really is quite wonderful. Above all, it tells you that something has shifted in the minds and stomachs of the Barcelona dining public and as a result chefs and restaurants are unleashing the grown-up stuff: the hearty, no-nonsense, regional dishes beloved of the international roster of specialist regional restaurants in places like London, Paris and New York. For that, Oaxaca is a game-changer, proving that ethnic soul food can not only work in this city of increasingly adventurous diners, it will be lapped up with gusto.

What more can I say? Go!

MORE INFO. think of Mexican (fondly, mind you) in terms of tequila shots and tacos, but this whole experience opens a window into a rather more grown-up approach and, dear God, it’s good.

First comes the drinks trolley loaded with several varieties of Mezcal and Tequila, served in shot form with a wedge of orange, sprinkled with sal de gusano (worm salt) that tastes reassuringly of chilli and smoke and wood. We sample three types (in tiny doses), one smoky as Highland

Pla de Palau 19. Tel. 93 319 0064. www.oaxacacuinamexicana.com.

About €45 for plates to share plus drinks. ✪✪✪✪ ✪ NOT WORTH THE TRIP ✪✪ COULD IMPROVE ✪✪✪ GOOD ✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD ✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED

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recIpe ROASTED TOMATO, ROSEMARY AND CHEDDAR TART...

Prep time: 30 mins. Cook time: 40 mins Total time: 1 hour 10 mins. Serves: 6-8 IngredIents • small tomatoes 12 (or a mixture of small and large) • olive oil • Dijon mustard 1 tsp • mature cheddar 50g • eggs 2, beaten • rosemary 2-3 sprigs, leaves picked pastry • plain flour 200g • butter 100g, chilled and diced • mature cheddar 50g, grated • cracked black pepper • cayenne a pinch InstructIons 1. Heat the oven to 190C. 2. Slice the tomatoes quite thickly, place them on a baking tray and season with sea salt, cracked black pepper, chilli oil and rosemary. Bake for 10 minutes.

Remove and set aside.

3. To make the pastry, put the flour and butter into a food processor and pulse until the mix resembles breadcrumbs. Stir in the cheese and cayenne, season, then add water to bring together into a dough. Roll out into a disc then wrap it in clingfilm and rest it in the fridge for 15 minutes. Roll out the pastry and line a tart tin. Cover with baking parchment or foil and beans then bake blind for 10 minutes. Take out the paper and cook for another 5-10 minutes. Allow to cool.

4. Mix the mustard, cheese and eggs and spread on the tart.

5. Sit the tomatoes on top and sprinkle seasoning. Bake for 20 minutes.

6. If you have any leftover tomatoes, place them on top of the finished tart and sprinkle on some crumbled goats cheese if you wish. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Anjalina Chugani was born in London but moved to Bangalore, India when she was 15; since 2000, she has been living in Barcelona where she works as an English teacher. A self-taught cook, she held Social Suppers in the meeatings23 space, and has a blog for recipes and food photography, www.rainbowspoon.com. rainbowspoonfood@gmail.com

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QUICK BITES head to this brunch spot for some odd twists on an old classic.

By Tara Stevens.

TRAVEL & CAKE

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very now and then I come across something so bizarre in the restaurant world that it blows my mind. And nothing could be more worthy of a few column inches than ‘eggs Benedict’ two ways: on top of an organic hot dog, or on top of a sweet waffle! I kid you not, but oh the horror when you’re starving and have already had to hike across town from one branch to another—there was a 40-minute wait on a Sunday morning at the original Brunch and Cake on Enric Granados, where they serve a near-legendary truffled bacon and egg bun—to get a table and the food press has been hailing the joint some kind of breakfast Mecca.

I was assured the menus were the same, but they weren’t (the clue was in the name: ‘travel’ not ‘brunch’). Now, at risk of sounding old fashioned, there are certain things where the rule ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it’ applies, and surely eggs Benedict is one of them? So here I am in a place that is lovely to look at and hosted by the most gorgeous staff, yet there’s not one thing on the menu that I really yearn to eat. Sure, I could have the bagels with scrambled eggs, and the ‘big’ salads all looked pretty good, but it wasn’t what I fancied.

Finally I go for the organic hot dog option, mainly because when I ask if I can have the eggs Benedict without the hot dog, the lovely lady serving says, “What, so you just want the bun”? “Well,” says I, “Not really, don’t suppose you have a muffin too”? “No,” she says, firmly this time, “We do things differently, you see.” I am starting to see, but I’m also about to chew off my own arm, so I order this wacky creation marvelling at what sort of a person would come up with such a thing. I mean, was he or she sitting at home one day staring down at their hot dog when suddenly they thought, I know what would improve this… a couple of poached eggs and some hollandaise sauce. And, as if in a final fit of madness it was served on a bed of baby spinach scattered with walnuts, raisins and a smear of balsamic vinegar.

I got about half way through the thing before I abandoned ship and slipped off down the road for a Bloody Mary instead. The truth is it wasn’t too awful, it was just a bit too odd for me. The place was rammed and folk seemed to be lapping it up so I guess I can only blame myself. After all, what sort of a loon orders an ‘eggs Benedict hot dog’ anyway?

MORE INFO.

tastings

Roselló 189. www.cupcakesbarcelona.com.

About €20 for brunch with coffee and a glass mimosa.

Miquel Hudin is originally from California but now based in Barcelona. He founded the Vinologue enotourism series of wine books (www.vinologue.com).

THE LATE HARVEST

We’re deep in the middle of harvest. This year it started a bit earlier and some wineries in Penedès and Empordà were picking their grapes at the beginning of August. As to when it will finish, that’s always impossible to tell as the weather dictates a great deal of what will happen. If there’s a big burst of heat, many will harvest earlier. If the year continues with alternating days of a little rain followed by good, abundant sun, it will be a very late harvest, possibly even later than last year. Most cellars are already declaring 2014 to be one of the best vintages on record.

Two wines that are part of this very late harvest are from DO Montsant in the Priorat comarca, which has that wonderful mix of heat and just the right amount of rain to avoid the mildew problems you see further north in Europe. This allows both of these cellars to harvest the grapes for these wines in the middle of November, making them special bottles that are definitely worth a look.

Vinyes Domènech Teixar 2010 €34 This wine is unique as it’s one of the few to be produced from 100 percent Garnatxa Peluda. Typically, this ‘hairy’ variant of the Grenache grape is aromatically mind-blowing, but often light in the body. This isn’t the case with this particular bottle which hits every point perfectly.

Amazing nose with aromas of forest fruits, ginger, thyme, fennel, as well as cloves and hazelnuts. Fresh and elegant in the body, it’s also ample and balanced with round tannins that lead to a lingering finish with notes of fruit and oak.

The red fruits in the nose intertwine with mature currants, liquorice, pepper, wild strawberries, pomegranate, and lilac notes. The body is fluid and light, but with well defined, delightful tannins. The finish is enveloping and expressive with light smoky notes at the very end.

Ortovins Les Tallades de Cal Nicolau 2011 €52 Joan Asens is a famed enolog in the Priorat region and his Ortovins project demonstrates why. He claims the secret is the very late harvest, as seen with this wine produced from 100 percent Picapoll Negre (a rare grape to find these days) which is the ultimate balance of maturity and elegance in a Catalan red wine.

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FOOD&DRINK

For more in food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking € under 20 | €€ 20-30 | €€€ 30-40 | €€€€ over 40 RV Reservation Advised

NEFW &D IN

Discount for Metropolitan reaDers.

Bar LA RUMBETA 4 BARRI GÒtIC La Rumbeta is a magical place located just off Las Ramblas. They offer a live musical performance of Rumba Catalana, including drinks and snacks. Catalan Rumba is the only native born musical style in our city from the twentieth century. Our artists are mostly Barcelona-Catalan gypsies, in a show that has authenticity, uniqueness and an unrivalled cultural quality in the Catalan capital. Come and enjoy the dynamic, interactive and fun show that is ‘La Rumbeta!’

free cD

Daily live shows 7.30pm-9.30pm Passatge Escudellers 7 | Metro Drassanes Tel. 649 018 920 | www.larumbeta.com

7SINS BAR ANd LOUNGE 4EIXAMPLE E If you’re looking for a friendly and good value place for a bite to eat, 7Sins is the place you’re looking for! The menu has a vast selection of dishes to share as well as a large choice of gourmet 100% beef burgers. After your meal there’s an elegant lounge with Chesterfield sofas and elegant decor, ideal for having a drink or cocktail. 7Sins also has a terrace where you can enjoy a meal or a drink outdoors. You can see their full menu at www.7sinsbar.com

Muntaner 7 | Metro Universitat Tel. 93 453 6445 | www.7sinsbar.com Mon-Sun 1pm till late | RV

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pint of stella €3

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CAfÈ MANdACARÚ4PoBLE SEC The irresistible food, fantastic wine list and beautiful interior make Cafè Mandacarú a unique space, equally suited to a coffee, glass of wine or excellent tapas. You can also enjoy a tasty cocktail or liquor in a welcoming atmosphere. Every week some of the city’s best musicians provide live music.

Magalhães 35 | Metro Poble Sec or Paral·lel | Near Plaça del Sortidor | Tel. 93 441 4017 www.cafemandacaru.com | Wed-Sun from 6.30pm

BAR CELONETA SANGRIA BAR 4BARCELoNEtA

Experience a huge variety of sangrias in this cozy place with a cool and chilled vibe where wine, fruit and spices are mixed with creativity and passion. It’s the first and only vegan/vegetarian tapas bar in the district where one can enjoy an exquisite brunch from 12am to 4pm every Saturday and Sunday. The atmosphere is casual and relaxingl, with alternative background music.

Sevilla 70 (near Carrer de Juici) | Metro Barceloneta | Tel. 93 172 2280 www.bar-celoneta.es | Open Every day 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 10am-2am”

BIERfEST TAvERN4SAGRADA FAMILIA This cosy traditional pub has a fantastic range of draft and bottled beers as well as a wide selection of G&T’s. They have large TVs and it’s the perfect place to watch the match with friends. If you study at the UAB join them on Facebook for more info on their regular language intercambio nights.

Av. Gaudí 81 | Metro Guinardó, Sagrada Familia T. 993 480 157 | www.bierfest.es | www.facebook.com/bierfest-barcelona

THE LIME HOUSE4BoRN The latest creation from the guys at Rubi Bar, The Lime House keeps the red vibe and the 3.50 mojito, but has a lot more seating and delicious hot food plates. There are 70 gins on offer, and over 40 of then made in-house, try the ‘tomato/basil’ gin or, if you’re brave, the ‘roquefort cheese’ gin! No TV, and James Brown and the Black Keys are on the playlist.

Open 7 days a week from 8pm.

Carders 31 I Metro Jaume 1

BELCHICA 4EIXAMPLE E

fLAHERTY'S4BARRI GÒtIC

Barcelona´s Belgian beer experience, serving up to 70 ales, lagers, fruity beers and other specials like gueuzes from the beer country for locals, students and expats. Multilingual staff, regular art exhibitions, live music and hip events complete the perfect Belgian bar experience. Also sports on SKY, Belgian German and Dutch tv.

Free Wi-Fi and outdoor terrace, private parties possible: ask for conditions and offers at the bar.

Since it was established in 2001, Flaherty’s has become one of Barcelona’s best known and busiest Irish pubs. By offering food all day from 10am til midnight (including our popular Full Irish Breakfast as well as group menus), live satellite sports on big screens, WiFi, a sunny terrace and a pool room where you can also play darts, not to mention its very spacious premises, Flaherty’s has rightly become known as the pub that has it all!

Villarroel 60, 08011 Metro Urgell, salida Villarroel Tel. 625 814 001 belchica@gmail.com

Plaça Joaquim Xirau | Metro Drassanes Tel. 93 412 6263

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Argentine 9REINAS 4EIXAMPLE

NEWD

Argentine reastaurant Nueve Reinas has quickly become a favourite for discerning meat-eaters. Renowned for its excellent quality and value 9Reinas is specialised in meats from all over the world. The exquisite Argentina-inspired decoration offers an intimate and welcoming space where every visitor feels like a guest.

The restaurant has two floors and a private room which can host parties of up to nine people.

IN F&

Resto-in food delivery With their fantastic new app Resto-in can deliver whatever type of food you want to your home, office, park or beach! They have a huge list of partner restaurants so whether you want: Indian, Chinese, Italian, Tapas, burgers or Sushi they will arrange the pick up and deliver it to your door in just 45 minutes! Resto-in only works with top restaurants to ensure your takeaway food is of the best quality. *Quote Metropoltian for your first free delivery.

eaders.

Valencia 267 | Tel. 93 272 4766 www.nuevereinas.com/en

Spanish

*FREE DELIVERY - 1ST ORDER

Tel. 90 110 0022 www.resto-in.es

Indian / Tandoori ANDú4Barri gÒtic

SURYA 4EIXAMPLE

Andú offers an escape from Barcelona’s mayhem, without sacrificing the fun. The cool music and relaxed vibe draws a diverse and bohemian crowd making it a warm and spirited bar full of animated locals enjoying a great wine list and classic Spanish tapas, buritos, tacos and cocktails.

Surya Barcelona, is an Indian restaurant that invites you to travel all the way to the streets of Mumbai, rich with colour, smell and exotic flavors. They offer a cozy and relaxed place where you feel at home, where you can drink, read a magazine, connect to the Internet, work and try out some of their delicious dishes.

Correo Viejo I Metro Jaume 1 I M. 646 553 930 Mon-Sun 6pm-2.30am

Bakery NATA LISBOA4EIXAMPLE Heir to one of the most delicious confectionary recipes in the world thats spans two centuries, NATA was born to produce and spread the most deliciously sweet tastes from Lisbon to the four corners of the world. Pay them a visit to try their portuguese specialities and their sublime coffee blend.

Pau Claris 92 | Tel. 93 667 8760 www.suryabarcelona.com

Mallora 277 I natalisboa.com www.facebook.com/NATALisboaESPANA

Italian BE MY BAGEL 4GRÀCIA

ACQUA & SALE 4 Poblenou

Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them.

They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed.

This is an authentic southern-Italian kitchen where you can enjoy traditional homemade dishes. Acqua & Sale only use the best Italian ingredients and the freshest seasonal produce. Enjoy the stylish and inviting ambience inside, or, in the warmer months, opt for their outdoor terrace.

Sundays midday - brunch and live jazz.

(12pm-3pm)

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm

Juice bar

Ice Cream MANNA GELATS 4BARRI GÒTIC

Homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico.

Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the best products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with marketbought products therefore boasting exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalized attention.

Banys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312

Food & drink oct 2014.indd 45

Joncar 17, 08005 | Tel. 93 517 0709 acquaesaletrattoria@hotmail.com www.acquaesale.es | Closed Tue

SANO4SANTS Sano Juice offers a healthy alternative choice with smoothies and juices, homemade bagels, paninis, wraps and a tasty lunch menu for 10.45. Our food and smoothies are made to order with fresh ingredients, no extra sugar, offering the best quality.

Sano Cuina Buenos Aires specialises in take-away salads, wraps and drinks, as well as healthy lunch menus that change twice a week. Eat better = Feel better.

Buenos Aires 44 , 08036 | Cerca de la Plaça Francesc Macià Tel. 217 81 15 | Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm

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Traditional

Tapas Fonda España4 Barri GÒtic

Baribau 4eixample Premium spirits, fresh produce and an innovative menu is why Baribau, a new bar/ restaurant in the heart of the Eixample, has been voted as one of the top 100 in Barcelona.

Located just 5 minutes from Rambla Catalunya, Baribau serves delicious tapas-style dishes and perfectly balanced cocktails, catering for everyone’s taste.

Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room that was originally designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements.

Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that is a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins.

Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat, from 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun, from 1pm-4pm, Closed Sun evening.

German

Mexican TLAXCAL 4BORN

biergarten4Les Corts

Just a few steps from the new Born Centre Cultural, you will find the best and most authentic mexican restaurant in Barcelona. They offer fresh, homemade guacamole, nachos, enchiladas, tacos, spicy aguachile, ceviche, and deserts, all of which are made with top quality, fresh ingredients. Enjoy a relaxed lunch or dinner in a cosy and modern place, with the best margaritas and micheladas in town. From Monday to Friday they offer a great lunch menu deal for just 11, including a starter, main course, dessert and drink.

To celebrate the eighth year of the Biergarten, the first traditional German terrace in Barcelona, why don’t you and your friends try the real taste of Bavaria?

The space recreates the legendary beer gardens, with German music, typical Bavarian food and beer, wooden benches and excellent service from waiters wearing costumes from the region. The Biergarten is the ideal place to come and have a great time while watching your favourite football.

Comerç 27, 08003, Metro Barceloneta, Jaume I Tel. 93 268 4134 info@tlaxcal.com | www.tlaxcal.com Mon-Fri 1pm-4pm, 8pm-midnight, Sat-Sun 1pmmidnight, kitchen open all day, Closed Tues

Pl. Pius XII, 4 I Metro Mª Cristina Tel. 93 5081 000/676 477 094 psofiabiergarten@expogrupo.com www.princesasofia.com Open every day from noon to midnight

Mediterranean

Romero4 EIXAMPLE D Located in the centre of the city, just a few streets from Passeig de Grácia, this exquisite and charming restaurant serves fresh, organic produce sourced directly from local markets. The staff are determined to share their love for Barcelona and its culinary wonders and only use the best ingredients to create their delicious dishes. The idea behind the restaurant was to create a unique space where good friends could come together and enjoy great Mediterranean food and wine. The chef at Romero, José Antonio Camacaro León, has an unmatched passion for food and offers his guests creative, natural dishes based on Mediterranean cuisine. With options for vegetarians and gluten-free menu items, there’s something to suit all tastes. Be sure to check out the great value set menus and daily specials too.

Bailén 115 | Metro Verdaguer or Girona | Tel. 93 457 0640 info@romerobcn.com | www.romerobcn.com | Mon to Sat Lunch starting at 1pm Mon-Fri 5pm-9pm, Thu-Sat Dinner starting at 8.30pm

Food & drink oct 2014.indd 46

Aribau131 | Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 004 2186 | www.baribau.com

Vietnamese

Bun bo ViÊtnam4Barri Gòtic Satisfy your craving for fresh, healthy Vietnamese food just steps away from the Gothic cathedral. Sit under the leafy trees of the quiet terrace or inside the restaurant which is entirely decorated with bright colourful pieces straight from Saigon. Start with delicious fresh summer rolls, crispy Asian pork lettuce cups, followed by traditional Pho or Bun noodle dishes.

Accompany your meal with a fresh and exotic cocktail like the sakirinha (caipirinha made with sake). The menu of the day is an affordable 10 inside and 11 on the shady terrace.

The kitchen is open non-stop all day.

Sagristans 3 | Metro Urquinaona | Tel. 93 301 1378 | www.bunbovietnam.com Every day 1pm-1am

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HEALTH

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS.

BUSINESS To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic -

Nart Dental Clinic - DENTIST This state-of-the-art clinic is located close to La Sagrada Familia and directed by English speaking dentist Dr. Jose Nart, USA trained and Chairman for the Department of Periodontology and Implant Dentistry at (UIC). He obtained his PhD in Dentistry with the highest degree.

Their specialist team uses the latest technology to ensure the best possible results. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader discounts and offers.

DENTIST Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona and Terrassa provides excellent oral care in an Englishspeaking environment. Dr Nancy Pancko, an American dentist trained at Columbia University in New York, is an American Board-certified orthodontist.

Dr Javier Sanz is an American Boardcertified periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university.

Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care

Padilla 368, 08025 Metro: Alfons X (L4) T. 93 456 7003 jose@nartperiodoncia.com www.nartclinicadental.com

Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 Metro: Clot (L1, L2) T. 93 246 9043 www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm

Dr. Boj - DENTIST Dr. Boj and his team provide specialised, comprehensive pediatric dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens.

Dr. Boj also lectures about all treatments related to these age groups, including laser dentistry. He became a specialist at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of Rochester, N.Y., USA. Fast and friendly service in an international environment where we speak English.

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

Orthoestetic - DENTIST The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their dentists experience allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients.

Dr. Holguin is a specialist in orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults, and dental aesthetics. She is certified by the Invisalign system.

Platinum Provider

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Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 Metro: Verdaguer (L4 ,L5) www.orthoestetic.es www.ortoesteticbcn.es info@orthoestetic.es

Abaden Dental Group - DENTIST Advanced Dentistry in Barcelona.

Methodology: A primary distinctive at Abaden is the high value we place on group clinical consultation. During our 28 years of business our dentists across all specialities meet together regularly to collaborate and review patient cases. This group’s clinical case consultation system is a proven method that guarantees accurate patient diagnostics and higher quality service.

Procedures: Implantology (single, multiple or full teeth recovery), aesthetics, orthodontics and general dentistry Languages: English, Russian, French and Portuguese.

Abaden Diagonal - Agustina Saragossa 9-11 (08017) Abaden Sants - Marques de Sentmenat 82 (08029) Abaden Vall d’Hebron - Arenys 89-93 (08035) T. 90 064 9162 (Toll-Free for national calls) Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat 10am-7pm www.dentistsbarcelona.com

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HEALTH

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

ENRIC PINTADO - DENTIST

For all your dental needs, a team consisting of their first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 30 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

Dr. Enric Pintado is a specialist in implant surgery and fixed prosthetics, trained by the Universities of New York, NY and Loma Linda, California.

At Dr. Pintado’s dental surgery, the treatment is personalised especially for you. All-on-4 procedures, flapless surgeries, zygomatic implants for low quantity of bone, without bone grafting and healing time.

In all of these procedures, teeth are placed in the same day.

Just everything, just Pintado!

Dr. Enric Pintado, DDS

Implants & teeth in one day Rosselló 95, local, 08029 Metro: Hospital Clínic (L5) Entença (L5) T. 93 322 9114 Fax. 93 322 0220 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

FREE CONSULTATION

Hestia - PSYCHOTHERAPY

ICLINIC - DENTIST

The Hestia International Centre of Psychotherapy has become a reference in the city. The professional team works with individuals, couples and families through psychotherapy, coaching, counselling, clinical hypnosis, art therapy, NLP and EMDR. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, and Catalan. The first consultation is free.

Perfect teeth in just one day. At IClinic Pifarré i Noguera. No unnecessary damaging of teeth. No killing nerves. No anesthesia and all in one session. Cosmetic dentistry and composite veneers give our clients the lovely smile they always dreamed of. IClinic works only with specialists in cosmetic dentistry who have been trained in the most up to date and cutting edge techniques.

Av. Diagonal 343 2 º piso, puerta 3 ª Metro: Verdaguer (L5) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

AFTER

BEFORE

Muntaner 66, 08011 T. 93 451 8325 Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm, 4pm-8pm www.iclinicpifarre.com

Bianca Kruk - THERAPIST

Krishinda Powers Duff

Bianca Kruk at Ganesha Healing is a certified therapist in: Naturopathy, Jin Shin Jyutsu, Ear Acupuncture and Quantum Kinesis. She is a member of the Asociación de Profesionales de las Terapias Naturales. Treats: Physical and emotional rebalancing, Pain and stress relief, anxiety, depression, Chronic and acute conditions, Nutritional advice, pregnancy discomforts. All ages welcome! To find out more visit the web or call Bianca directly. Dutch, English, German, Italian and Spanish spoken.

Krishinda is a fully-qualified and trained British midwife offering home birth and home dilatation services.

She also provides antenatal and postnatal care and support to mothers and babies for six weeks after birth.

She is supported in her practice by a team of Spanish but British-trained midwives and alternative health care professionals as well as a breast feeding consultant/Doula.

Midwife means ‘to be with woman’.

M. 654 393 629 ganeshahealing@gmail.com www.ganeshahealing.wix.com/engl

M. 665 143 437 krishinda@gmail.com www.barcelonamidwife.com

NEST - NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, German, Italian and Greek.

For detailed information, please visit their website. www.barcelonaNEST.com

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Balmes, 295, 1º 2ª, 08006 T. 93 200 0808 recepciobcn@enricpintado.com www.enricpintado.com

Bsc Hons - MIDWIFE

Jonathan Lane Hooker NEW CITY CENTRE OFFICE

PSYCHOTHERAPIST Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life.

An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people.

Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.

T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

9/24/14 2:56:30 PM

HEALTH · BUSINESS SERVICES

Pharmacy Serra Mandri CHEMIST

English Doctor

The helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this wellknown Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and also offers a home delivery service.

Dr. Steven Joseph - Doctor General Practice Mental Health MB, MRCGP, MRCPsych.

Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemist T. 93 416 1270 Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Doctor for Adults

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults.

A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

Therapies Adam - THERAPIST Does a headache or migraine interfere with your daily life? Do you suffer from stress and anxiety? Is an old whiplash injury still causing problems? Do you have trouble sleeping? Do you have jaw or eye tension?

Are you looking for the right path and more peace and balance in your life? Do you suffer from depression?

Plaça Dr. Letamendi 3/4, Passeig de Gràcia M. 689 786 519 www.terapias-adam.com

Panizo Institute CRANIOSACRAL OSTEOPATHY Osteopathy treats the body, mind and emotions as one. By working with the osteopath you can treat the more commonly known ailments of low back and neck pain, but also treat headaches, migraine, digestive problems and stress relief.

Plaça Dr. Letamendi 3/4, Passeig de Gràcia M. 689 786 519 www.craneosacral-panizo.com

Mac in Barcelona -

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Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR Established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care with access to all medical specialties and tests.

Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro Les Corts Mon-Sat M. 662 291 191 www.googolmedicalcentre.com

€15 OFF

Tania Spearman - ACUPUNCTURE Make acupuncture your first choice, not your last resort! Tania is offering all Metropolitan readers a €15 discount on first appointments with this voucher.

Acupuncture treats many conditions from pain, stress and depression to infertility and more. English, Spanish and German spoken.

Enric Granados 133, 4-1 bis M. 644 322 161 info@taniaspearman.com www.taniaspearman.com

Born Wellness Center - HEALTH We have a beautiful studio, in the heart of El Born, providing restorative relief from the city. Our team of trained practitioners support you in finding the wellness practice that suits your needs, offering an uniquely integrated variety of services including Yoga, Pilates, Alexander Technique, Movement Therapy, Chiropractic and Massage. Born Wellness provides a highly personalized approach to assist you on your journey to wholeness and health.

Sombrerers 27, 08003 M. 653 842 695 info@bornwellness.com www.bornwellness.com

Centro Quiropráctico Vida - CHIROPRACTOR Daryn J.Wiese is an American trained and board certified chiropractor that directs one of the most well known practices in Barcelona-Vida Centro Quiropractico. The practice known for its quality service with a friendly and professional environment having a very high user-satisfaction rate.

The care is specific, effective, and comfortable as it shows with practice members ranging from 15 days to 96 years of age.

Diputació 168 Tda. 2, 08011 Metro: Urgell (L1) Bus 14, 20, 37, 59 T. 93 451 5301 quiropracticavida@gmail.com www.quiropracticavida.com

Spain Accounting -

COMPUTERS Stéphane Clément is an Apple technician and consultant with over fifteen years of experience.

Anna Piqué, a native from Barcelona, assists Stéphane with her business and communication background.

Their focus is on providing good service and installations with clear communicative skills and personal advice. The aim is to solve your computer troubles and teach you how to improve your daily use of your Mac and its various accessories, giving you an opportunity for a more pleasant and safer computer experience.

TAX AND ACCOUNTING SERVICES

Cami de Mas Roig a Mas Fuster 47 Valldoreix, 08197 M. 608 994 599

Call David Cook 678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com

Qualified UK accountant with 25 years’ experience in Spain offers: · Tax services for freelance ‘autónomos’ & companies · Income tax returns for employees & non-residents · Registration of ‘autónomos’ & company incorporation (SL) · Practical advice on setting up a business in Spain · Fast, reliable email service

9/24/14 2:56:36 PM

BUSINESS SERVICES · SCHOOLS

Fletcher Consultancy Ltd -

Sánchez Molina LEGAL PRACTICE

CONSULTANCY

The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French.

They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Fletcher Consultancy Ltd. now operates in Spain providing tailored training and development services for managers and employees, development and access to UK qualifications for ex-pats, HR services for development of competence based systems. Our UK business services blue chip clients in both public and private sectors. We have special offers for new clients, including free mystery shopping and training needs analysis.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

shirleydirect@aol.com M. +44 799 053 4331 www.fletcherconsultancy.co.uk www.nvqenespana.com

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS

ARC97SL - OFFICE AND HOME IMPROVEMENTS

George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years.

Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

Media and Marketing Assistant Jo Elizabeth Hardman M. 610 544 614 Pietat 8 baixos, 08002 arc97@arc97.com www.arc97.com

Gusto Films - FILM

Easi-Sat - TELEVISION SERVICE

Gustofilms is a production company specialising in promotional film. We dedicate ourselves to the creation and making of high-quality audiovisual content. We like to innovate, discover and imagine. We love style, down to the smallest detail.

Nos gusta gustar.

Specialists in satellite TV, HD, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reliability throughout Catalunya for many years. Their professional team provides satellite television from across Europe, including Dutch, French, Italian and Russian, at unbeatable prices. They have solutions for loss of UK channels, with or without a dish. New IPTV is the solution to viewing UK freesat channels, BBC’s, ITV’s, Al Jazeera sports 1-10, and many more. Follow them on Facebook/Easisat and Twitter ‘@ PaulDuval15’.

Sant Quinti 47, 4º5ª, 08041 T. 93 007 4408 M. 636 611 029 info@gustofilms.es www.gustofilms.es

Mrs.Q design studio GRAPHIC DESIGN

GRAPHIC DESIGN STUDIO BUSINESS PACKAGES logo design - stationery - advertising

POSTERS & BROCHURES wedding stationery

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Do you want to build or renovate your office or flat? ARC97 specialise in the design and construction of new works and renovations. They are committed from beginning to end and take care of every detail of each project. They will tailor any project according to your specific needs, style, taste and interests.

They guarantee that all work will be completed on time and within budget.

Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services from branding to graphic design, web design, ceramics, photography and bespoke invitations.

She will help you bring some of your personality to your brand and use her knowledge of colour, passion for typography and creative flair to create an identity that engages your customers. Contact Mrs.Q for her competitive business packages.

She specialises in bespoke wedding invitations, tailor-made to suit the style of your wedding. Designed with love!

M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com

BOOK NOW FOR A FREE DEMO

T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 enquiries@easisat.net www.easisat.net

VISIT OUR ONLINE BUSINESS DIRECTORY www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Moloka’i - STAND-UP PADDLE Molokai’s SUP Centre is the place to go if you’re looking to do stand-up paddle in Barcelona. Their passionate team provides an excellent experience.

Relax and forget your worries in this fun environment where you can keep fit and have fun at the same time.

They have membership plans with special prices and activities, open every day of the year.

Meer 39, M. 654 082 099 www.molokaisupcenter.com

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SCHOOLS · BEAUTY

Corsa - DRIVING SCHOOL

STOP N’ DRIVE DRIVING SCHOOL

Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn everything you need to know about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

Ask for the special Metropolitan reader offers HAIR CUT €15 + HOT SHAVE €25

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324 www.corsa.cat/en/courses www.facebook.es/autoescuelacorsa

BCN Cuts - BARBER SHOP Directly from Boston to Gràcia comes BCN Cuts Barber Shop to offer you time to relax surrounded in a welcoming environment. With a drink in hand and jazz music playing in the background, you can have a hair cut or try their hot lather shave the classic way. BCN Cuts is a traditional barber shop with a contemporary atmosphere. You will keep coming back for the excellent service.

Gran de Gràcia 223 T. 93 611 1813 bcncuts@gmail.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

Heaven - MASSAGE

10% DISCOUNT

Bejar 67, 08014 (Between plaza España and Sants Estació) www.aestopndrive.com

10% OFF

The Vital Touch - MASSAGE The Vital Touch Massage clinic helps you relax, energise, re-balance and improve your health and lifestyle with a therapeutic, holistic full-body massage.

- Helps relieve tension, reduce stress, detoxify your body and boost your self-esteem.

- We also visit offices and events around Barcelona helping stressed executives to relax and re-energise in their working day.

M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com

BCN L.I.P. LANGUAGE SCHOOL

American-trained massage therapist Carrie Lewis has 15 years of experience soothing and releasing both muscular and emotional pain and tension. Her focus is deep-tissue massage, which she combines with reflexology, reiki, and other complementary techniques. She also specialises in pregnancy and postpartum massage. This excellent vocational massage therapist with years of training and experience will make a difference in your personal wellbeing. Chair massage for events and home visits available.

BCNLP is a small school with a warm and welcoming atmosphere in Barcelona’s old town. They offer both intensive and extensive courses in flexible hours for many languages and it’s the perfect place to ensure success in attaining your goals. The centre is equipped with the most advanced facilities to help you to succeed in your chosen language.

They offer classes in Spanish, Catalan, French, German, Portuguese, Hebrew, Arabic, Russian, Italian, Chinese and English.

Contessa de Pardo Bazán 24 M. 639 533 523

T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

BERLITZ - SCHOOL

Coral - SPANISH TEACHER

At Berlitz language school they have a teacher available for you whether you take face-to-face classes or through their virtual classroom with a huge range of courses available for English, French, German, Russian and Spanish. Their amazing online platform has more than 218 specialties which can be adapted to fit your needs. Their one-day business workshops can also add the finishing touch to your professional language needs. 10% discount with this advert.

Reach a Spanish level that best fits your time, interests and needs!

Try Coral’s personalised courses using interesting and effective methods that make learning easy. She will come to your home or business and provide the material. All levels; private or small groups (up to 3). 60-min class €25; 90-min class €35. If you need classes via SKYPE, she can also offer online lessons. She is a native, experienced and highly-qualified teacher.

Av. Diagonal 382, 08037 Tel. 93 215 0100 barcelona1@berlitz.es www.berlitz.es Mon-Fri 8am-09.30pm

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Stop by their driving school to learn about how you can get your Spanish (European) driving license in English and from home! Don’t let time be your excuse. Stop N’ Drive is the first driving school in Barcelona that instructs you through online videos and offers intensive courses lasting only two weeks, between 7.30pm to 10pm.

STOP N’ DRIVE Driving school courses are low-cost, so don’t hesitate to get in touch with them and start your journey.

Become a driver in Barcelona!

M. 676 249 744 coral@coralprada.com

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SHOPPING For more shopping visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/shopping

MESA BONITA OWN A PIECE OF BARCELONA! Gayarre, 2 Pral, 08014 · T. 627 230 824 · benedictebodard@gmail.com www.mesabonita.es · www.facebook.com/pages/Mesa-Bonita

24 KILATES

If you’re new to Barcelona and love its architecture or just looking for that perfect gift for your loved ones, Mesa Bonita has the answer: Bénédicte Bodard has been collecting antique hydraulic floor tiles in Barcelona, after cleaning and restoring them, she turns them into really gorgeous tables, frames, trivets and coasters made to order. Many are over 130 years old! Visit her studio in Sants where you can see her huge collection.

Located in the Born shopping area, this exclusive streetwear store has become internationally renowned thanks to its exciting design collaborations with many famous brands like New Balance, Stussy, Reebok, Lacoste, Puma, Asics, Nike, Saucony, Adidas, New Era and more. Definitely worth a look.

ECOOLOGY

BCN PAINTING ROUTE

Comte Urgell 28, 08011 · T. 606 53 54 93 · Mon-Fri 11am-7pm www.ecology.es

Carrer de Lledó 17 · T. 93 319 9178 bcnpaintingroute@outlook.es · www.facebook.com/BCNPaintingRoute

Wear the latest trends made in Barcelona with the best ecological fabrics. Now you can be fashionable and respect the planet, you can feel good and unique with limited edition eco fashion that matches your personality. Forget about dressing like everyone else, you are different. Ecoology is ethical, cool and trendy eco-fashion for your everyday lifetime.

New gallery in the heart of the Gothic quarter showcasing oil paintings on canvas and other works of art. High quality paintings starting from just €40 The perfect place to find the perfect painting of Barcelona.

Comerç 29 · T. 93 268 8437 · www.24-kts.com

PARRUP

OJALA!

Ciutat 14 · T. 93 601 1830 · www.ojala.es · Mon-Sat 10am-8,30pm

Banys Nous 17 · www.parrup.com www.facebook.com/ParrupBarcelona

OJALA! is the fashion brand by Paloma Del Pozo, hailed as one of today’s most original and creative Spanish designers. Her new Barcelona boutique is located on a charming street in the Gothic quarter, only 50 metres from the Plaça Sant Jaume. Del Pozo designs joyful, colourful and elegant quality garments that will make any women stand out in a crowd.

PARRUP brings together the best from local designers, carefully selected unique pieces, limited edition products and finely crafted clothes, jewellery, art and furniture.Why PARRUP? Because they love talented people. Because they want to showcase what they can offer. Because they believe in the local economy and production transparency. Because they don’t believe in the ‘made in Asia’ business. Nothing more but nothing less.

ARTSHOP

FURTIVO SKATEBOARDING

Sitges 7 · T. 93 676 2311 · www.facebook.com/Artshopbcn

Located close to Plaça Catalunya, the Artshop has a full range of artist supplies and a small family gallery. If you need a simple watercolour set or any other specialist items, they can be bought or ordered for you at the shop.

www.furtivoskateboarding.com

Furtivo Skateboarding is an online skateboarding shop with selected products of premium brands, offering hi-end skateboarding products. Pro-Models represent 80 percent of their stock.

You can find: Plan B, Flip, Blind, Cliché, Darkstar, Enjoi, Element, BLVD, Toy Machine, Foundation and many more. They deliver world wide in 24 to 48 hours. Register now to take advantage of their offers and promotions.

BATEAU LUNE

KITSCH

Bateau Lune is a traditional toy shop for kids where you can find a large variety of traditional toys including; wooden bicycles, trains, also micro scooters, also kites and outdoor games and many more rare and original toys. Go visit them today and get ideas for special occasions such as birthday presents and Christmas gifts.

Check out their free activities for children twice a month on the Virreina square in Gràcia!

Opened in 1978, Kitsch is Spain´s very first sex shop. The shop offers a wide range of toys from quality brands like LELO, Fun Factory, Iroha, Tenga and WeVibe, as well as condoms, books, lingerie, movies and more. The shop also arranges guided tours and talks by psychologists/ sexologists. They have an extensive online shop too.

Plaça Virreina 7, 08012 · T. 93 218 6907 www.bateaulune.com · info@bateaulune.com www.facebook.com/bateaulune

Muntaner 17-19 (Eixample) L1/L2 (Universitat) · T. 93 453 2052 info@kitsch.es · www.kitsch.es Open Mon-Sat 10am-10pm

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JOBS To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS www.classiďŹ eds.barcelona-metropolitan.com

WOULD YOU LIKE TO WORK AS A MODEL? We are looking for new models & actors for 2014. We are interested in candidates of all types and ages.

You can drop by our offices from Monday to Friday: 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-18:00 Email your cv to : jma@modelos.net Visit our website: www.modelos.net Dolors Masferrer i Bosch, 20-22, entlo, 08028

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Michelle FABREGAS & JASON CLEVERING ENTREPRENEURS, CALIFORNIA

used by world-class chefs. Or it can be used by me. A person who goes, “You know what? This might be good.” I’m like a mad scientist in the kitchen. Our products are very versatile so you can know what you want or you can be creative.

Our biggest message is really: How do you dribble? However you want. michelle: Right now, the focus is rapid expansion. I really think the Barcelona community is embracing our Go Big or Go Home mentality. It’s very American of us. But this is what we’re all about. We want our brand message to reach the entire world.

Olive Oil is missionary position. We’re the Kama Sutra. We’re trying to make people realise you can cook with other things besides olive oil. Our oils offer some of the same health benefits as olive oil. Some of them offer totally different benefits. Why would you want to limit yourself to one oil? It’s not just about varying your flavours, but varying your health benefits as well. jason: Using Dribble Dots, you’re accepting all the things the brand stands for.

Having fun. Being creative. Incorporating sexiness into your life. We want to be a part of those memorable mealtime moments that come up in conversations weeks later. We want people to buy our product not only because it is excellent quality, but because by buying it, you’re saying something about the lifestyle you lead.

I think the start-up community has really begun to erupt in Barcelona. Something we’re excited to be part of. Catalunya has been built on generations of tradition, whether it’s politics, food, or sports. Tradition continues to hold true, but I think Barcelona has begun to accept new traditions. And that’s why we decided to base ourselves here. People are becoming passionate about things that aren’t specifically Barcelona. People are bringing things into the city, but then giving them a Barcelona twist. After so much talk of crisis over the years, the start-up community is bringing back the blue skies. It’s nice to see a passion for business come back into Barcelona.

By Ben Rowdon

scoop

Michelle: I moved to Barcelona six years ago to go to culinary school. I did a year-long course, after which I planned on moving back to LA because I’m originally a California girl. I still am at heart, but eventually I loved it here so much that I just stayed.

I love Barcelona. First and foremost, the food is what attracted me to the city, and the food is what kept us here. But also, I love the culture, the people, the architecture. Everything around inspires me, and that’s really, in the end, what brought Jason and me to create Dribble Dots. The Barcelona brand itself enhances our creativity, gets the creative juices flowing.

Jason woke me up at three in the morning one night, about three years ago, and said, “Michelle you gotta see this.” He had developed the brand, the logo, the name, the product, and said we’re gonna do this some day.

Jason: It’s one of those things that after four Gin and Tonics everybody sits around and says, “You know what? We should do that idea, man. We’re gonna be millionaires.” But the reality was we were working for all these freelance clients, companies who hadn’t done anything with their branding in 30 years.

We would try to bring them into the millenium with social media, etc. and wound up spending about 98 percent of our time doing something that they were never going to adopt. michelle: So we were like, why are we working for other people when we want to create something for ourselves?

Our goal is to be accessible gourmet. Dribble Dots is a quality product, but we don’t want people to be afraid to use it any way they see fit, so we’re keeping it affordable. We don’t want people to think it has to sit on a shelf, waiting for a special occasion. jason: The two of us are very representative of the two types of people who use Dribble Dots. Michelle has a culinary background and knows how to cook things that take talent and knowledge. Dribble Dots is that kind of product that can be

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