Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 218

MARCH 2015 Nº 218

FREE

JAZZ IT UP

The ciTy’s jazz scene, yesTerday and Today

ECO-FOOD

iT looks good but is it organic?

HOT AND STEAMY! 6 spa Towns

HOW TO...

creaTe an edible balcony garden PLUS! ART 01 cover March.indd 1

MUSIC

FASHION

RESTAURANT REVIEWS

A PLACE OF MY OWN

TRAVEL 2/25/15 4:42 PM

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GUIRI BUSINESS DRINK NETWORKING 2015 Free Drink & Tapas

18th March

Guiri Business Group is a LinkedIn community of 6000 + members designed to facilitate professional networking through the exchange of information, knowledge, contacts, jobs and opportunities.

Entrance is free for Guiri Business LinkedIn members and an RSVP is required to attend.

For more information and to RSVP please visit www.GuiriBusiness.com RESTAURANT CINCO JOTAS Gran vía de las Cortes Catalanes 373 Las Arenas Centro Comercial, Top Floor

Plaza España Tel. 93 423 7752

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C O N T EN T S

Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Andrea Moreno Consulting Editor Esther Jones Editor Carol Moran Publishing Consultant Tim Parfitt Art Director Aisling Quigley

{ISSUE 218} MARCH 2015

Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell, Aline Davis Sales Assistant Roelien Prinzen Editorial Assistants Laura Bonicelli, Abi Davies, Rachel Huffman, Kirsten Sylvain Design Assistant Lucia Lopez-Murcia Contributors Jay Collins, Miquel Hudin, Sam Mednick, Tori Sparks, Tara Stevens Photographer Yan Pekar Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial: editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com General: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com.

FEATURES 12 REPORT: JAZZ IT UP Tori Sparks talks to the main movers on the city’s jazz scene.

18 A HELPING HAND Sam Mednick discovers some Barcelona technology in an unlikely place.

30 ORGANIC FOOD Eco-conscious eaters can find plenty to be cheerful about.

32 GROW YOUR OWN Turn your balcony into an edible urban oasis.

Carrer de la Ciutat 7 2ª-4ª, 08002 Barcelona.

Tel. 93 451 4486

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

REGULARS 06 08 10 29 34 36 50

New in Town In the City A Place of My Own Fashion Travel Food & Drink Interview

The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher.

Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

Depósito legal: B35159-96

MARCH 2015 Nº 218

FREE

JAZZ IT UP

WHAT�S ON 20 22 24 26

The ciTy’s jazz scene, yesTerday and Today

Music Art Misc.

Pullout Calendar

ECO-FOOD

iT looks good but is it organic?

HOT AND STEAMY! 6 spa Towns

DIRECTORIES

METROPOLITAN contributors

40 42 45 48 49

Food & Drink Health & Beauty Business Shopping Jobs

HOW TO...

creaTe an edible balcony garden PLUS! ART

MUSIC

FASHION

01 cover March.indd 1

RESTAURANT REVIEWS

A PLACE OF MY OWN

TRAVEL 2/25/15 4:42 PM

This month’s cover sets a colourful scene for our feature article on jazz.

SAM MEDNICK

TONI ROCAMORA

LUCIA LOPEZ-MURCIA

A Toronto native, Sam is a professional life and executive coach. She also co-hosts an Englishspeaking radio show and works as a freelance journalist for USA Today, Metropolitan and other publications. Sam’s most recent work took her to the Turkish/Syrian border, where she focused on the humanitarian crisis and the civil war. See www.blueprintcoaching.ca and listen to English Radio every Friday at 9am on 106.9 or download the podcast from iTunes: ‘Barcelona English Radio’.

Toni Rocamora is a retired economist, head chef of a big family, and lover of all gastronomyrelated sports, such as snail hunting, mushroom collecting and market shopping. Toni was born in Oliana, a small town in the foothills of the Pyrenees, and inherited his passion for cooking from his mother, famous for her traditional family recipes. He now volunteers for D’INS, a school restaurant that aims to train young people at risk of social exclusion. www.ambdosfogons.com

Originally from Andalusia, Lucia studied interior design in Málaga. After spending some time living in London, she came to Barcelona and fell in love with the city–its energy and vibrancy.

After a period studying ephemeral architecture and developing skills in gastronomy, she finally found her passion in graphic design and studied a master’s degree. She now juggles her time between graphic design projects, Metropolitan, and mixing cocktails.

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new in town SOMETHING’S BREWING

A MEDITERRANEAN FUSION

Garage Beer Co. Consell de Cent 261. www.garagebeer.co With a hankering to become significant players in the rapidly expanding local craft beer scene, James and Zambo opened this new brewery in the Eixample. The combination of Zambo’s past experience brewing beer in his Dublin garage and James’ insane meticulousness about the quality of the beer they produce and serve is bound to help them achieve their goals. “We want to sell beer all over Barcelona, then expand across Spain, Europe and beyond,” said James.

The brewery in the back of the industrial drinking space has a 1,400 litre capacity, meaning they could potentially brew 8,400 pints a week. Right now, Garage Beer Co only brews one original beer, the Riba. Riba is light and tasty enough to order pint after pint—or in James’ words, it’s “a sessionable pale ale”. Within a week of opening, they already had repeat customers coming in and ordering a Riba by name. Soon they will have more frothy selections, but the duo are adamant about not releasing a beer until it’s ready. As James firmly stated, “We won’t sell a beer that people will say is anything less than fantastic.”

Malgam. Aribau 113. www.malgam.es Malgam’s menu has everything you would expect from a Mediterranean restaurant in Barcelona: bravas and cremas, bacalao and jamón. The difference is a taste you can’t always find with the typical menú del día. Through a window, patrons can see the chefs hard at work in the kitchen making those ordinary dishes into something extraordinary, with innovative additional ingredients and precision cooking. The restaurant is designed for quick bites at high-top tables and straight-backed chairs in the front, and cosy, intimate, slow meals in the padded booths and armchairs towards the back. Mismatched, imaginative lighting sets off the vintage posters that hang next to the sleek bar, and overall, it is a fresh and elegant space.

For owner Jordi, the enticing interior design and attentive waiting staff are important but it’s the food that really matters.

“Our staff always ask themselves ‘Would I eat that?’ before serving any plate.”

...THAT JE NE SAIS QUOI

Le Petit Gourmet Barcelona. Travessera de Gràcia 126. www.lepetitgourmet.es Le Petit Gourmet is a traditional French patisserie located in Gràcia. Its owners, Alex Barreau and Marine Genieys, are originally from France and are passionate about bringing a little bit of their culture to Barcelona. “We want to offer something to eat at any time of the day, from breakfast to dinner, and something that reminds us of living in the south of France—such as sablés and flans,” said Barreau. The patisserie’s kitchen is on display, so you can see the couple making the pastries from scratch.

From doughy croissants and crispy macarons to sweet wine and traditional ham and cheese, all of the pastries and deli products available have something in common: they are typically found in south-west France. Le Petit Gourmet currently does not have many tables and chairs inside and is primarily a take-away spot, so it’s the perfect place for a morning snack on your way to work, or an evening treat after a long day.

UMAMI

Yoi Yoi Gion. Diagonal 383. facebok.com/yoiyoigionudon Yoi Yoi Gion has landed on Diagonal with one primary purpose: to fill the large, udon-shaped hole in the city’s noodle scene. A hole that many may not even realise exists, given the popularity of a certain eponymous chain. But rest assured, Yoi Yoi Gion’s organic, homemade noodles served in a warm, delicate broth with intriguing toppings, are unlike anything you can find elsewhere in Barcelona. Although there are plenty of authentic ramen and sushi places, owner, Keiji, felt that there was something missing with regard to udon. Despite being a much thicker noodle, udon is traditionally a lighter dish than the more popular ramen, especially the version hailing from Keiji’s native city, Kyoto. This makes it an everyday staple; the equivalent of a bocadillo here in Spain. Keiji has chosen a converted space on Diagonal for his simple, spacious restaurant, and the minimalist decor, brought over from Kyoto, is boldly traditional. The paper lanterns that adorn the room are typical of the city’s ancient Gion Festival, which has been celebrated for over a millennium and lends its name to the restaurant.

So don’t be fooled by its trendy appearance and location; Yoi Yoi Gion offers the real deal when it comes to udon. Feel free to abandon those restrictive Western table manners while visiting and slurp your noodles loudly—it would be rude not to.

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5

THINGS TO DO in

March

1

ENJOY THE VIEW

2

GET YOUR SKATES ON

3

GROW YOUR OWN

4

HAVE A CUPPA

5

HIT THE SLOPES

Winter is very much over, so it’s time to get outside again and enjoy some gentle spring rays. And what better way than taking in a view of the city with a drink in hand?

For the best (and plushest) views in the city, try Club Miramar on Montjuïc, and Mirablau or Gran Hotel La Florida on Tibidabo.

It’s free, it’s fun and it’s a great workout. Rent your rollerblades at Rodats (www.rodats.es) in the Centre de la Vila shopping centre, then speed, or wobble, your way along the cycle paths on the promenade between Vila Olímpica and Barceloneta. For free classes see the website of the Associació de Patinadors de Barcelona (www.patinarbcn.org).

Think you may have green fingers but missing a garden?

You don’t need to move out of the city to enjoy your own home-grown fruit and veggies. All you need is a small patio or even a sunny window box to get started. Check out our article on page 32.

Raise a cup to the Chinese Year of the Goat, which began in February. Casa Asia (www.casaasia.cat) is offering a workshop on the ancient Chinese tea ceremony over two Saturdays in March. Or indulge in a spot of tea tasting at tea lovers’ haven, ArtTe (www.artte.es), which runs two-hour tasting workshops.

ARIBAU 87, 2.2A, 08036, Barcelona OFFICE: 93 952 3283 | MOBILE: 675 803 210 service@tiviprint.es | www.tiviprint.es

There’s still time to squeeze in a ski trip before the snow melts, but you’ll need to be quick. Catalunya’s ten resorts have something for every level. Check out our quick guides to skiing in Catalunya and Andorra at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com.

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STREETLIFE

CAFÉ COMETA Parlament 20 Sophie, 26, from London and a waitress at Cometa since November, said, “Saturdays and Sundays we get a ton of hipster families in here, but during the week we also get a good mix of normal locals. Old people, people with dogs, regulars.” She enjoys getting to know this eccentric customer base in between passing out slices of homemade cakes and freshly made hummus during the café’s busy rush.

PARLAMENT HAS SPOKEN IN OUR NEW FEATURE WE TAKE A STROLL DOWN SOME OF THE CITY’S HIPPEST STREETS. CRUM Parlament 15 Crum offers quality, friendly potatoes. The idea behind this starchy snack shop started with a fourth generation potato connoisseur and the desire to improve the standard patatas bravas dish. “Most of the time when you order patatas bravas they’re a big disappointment,” said Borja, who has a stake in Crum, which he admitted makes him biased towards their potatoes.

BIG FAMILY KIDS Parlament 25 This kids’ clothing store is not only practical, but also adorable. Leopard leggings, velour tracksuits, handmade tutus and colourful corduroys line the racks, alongside miniature backpacks stitched from different fabrics to create animal faces and other youthful trinkets. Owner Laia opened her doors last May. She takes great pride in her new styles crafted from soft fabrics, all made in Spain.

1UNIK Parlament 13 A little less than a year ago, Clara moved her upcycling shop to this popular street. “I have too many creative ideas bouncing around my head to work a desk job,” she said. So she spends her time refurbishing old, battered things, making something new and valuable. In other words, upcycling. Clara explained, “It’s not recycling— taking a glass bottle and making another glass bottle. There’s a ton of work that goes into each commissioned piece to transform it into a new form with new life, and I love it!”

METROPOLITAN people

BODE Parlam With t open, chatti wines he co three here.

“The atmos to the a cas

ESCALERA DE INCENDIOS Parlament 26 March 7th will be the third anniversary of this contemporary art gallery.

Curators Maria and Anna always try to include young, emerging artists in their exhibitions, which generally last two months. “During that time, we ask every artist to plan activities and events that will attract and involve the community, along with being available to the public through live chats and gallery appearances,” said Maria.

We’ve got vegetables on the mind this month, so we found ourselves wondering, “If you were a fruit or vegetable, which one would you be?”

NOEMÍ

ESTEVE

27, Barcelona

28, Girona

I would be a carrot, because they are long, orange and slim.

An onion, because they are good but they can make you cry.

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BODEGA VINITO Parlament 27 With the entire front of this buzzing bar open, patrons spill out onto the street, chatting and sipping Spanish and Catalan wines. Manuel, 48, from Paris, said that he comes to Barcelona every two to three weeks and makes a point to stop in here. “It’s an authentic place,” he said.

“The people are great and it’s cheap. The atmosphere is welcoming and communal, to the point that it feels like you’re having a casual drink in a friend’s garage.”

CRYSTALIA Parlament 36 At this glimmering, extravagant store, crystal is their passion.

Whether you’re looking for a specialised birthday present, corporate gift, trophy or statement piece for your home, this is the place to explore. Maybe you’ll fancy something anomalous like the large, white leopard perched in the window, a glass slipper or a fragile bouquet of sparkling flowers.

SIRVENT Parlament 56 Sirvent serves possibly the best Orxata on the planet in an oldschool ice cream parlour setting.

The company was started in 1920 by nougat-maker D. Tomás Sirvent Planelles, whose son moved the shop to its current location in 1943.

Since then, the Sirvent team has worked to diversify their products while maintaining the quality and traditional manufacturing methods that have been the trademark of the company from the beginning.

PASSATGE TAINOS Parlament 35 Tainos is an eclectic place with mismatched furniture, chandeliers and window frames hanging from the walls, and it has gradually transformed from a clothes shop into a bar. “There are enough tables and random seats to accommodate a bigger group of friends, which is nice,” said Xavi, 31, from Barcelona. “It’s definitely a good place to stop in when you’re out for drinks in Sant Antoni, even if you don’t fit in with the hipster scene.”

VICTORIA 28, Ukraine

I would be a strawberry because they are beautiful and everyone likes them.

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A PLACE OF my CAROL AND GUS LEFT THEIR HOME IN CHICAGO TO CRUISE AROUND THE WORLD IN THEIR custom-built sailboat.

S

ome Americans retire to Florida to relax in the sun. Carol and Gus retired to the open sea to experience the world. In 2002, they sold their home and left Chicago, their two children and three grandchildren. Their address since then: the S/V Indigo, a custom-built, 52-foot, aluminium sailboat, currently docked in Marina Port Vell.

Throughout their 40 years of marriage, they have always taken sailing vacations, seeking different adventures in new parts of the world. Even for their honeymoon, the couple sought an adrenaline rush by staying in a jungle safari camp on the Amazon in eastern Peru. The trip consisted of falling asleep to the noisy layers of the jungle below their tree hut, then waking up for target practice with blowguns, and floating down the river in dugout canoes, fishing for piranhas. Now that they have moved aboard the Indigo, their chronicle of adventures continues to grow.

During their first few years at sea, Carol and Gus spent summers cruising around the Caribbean, and winters in South America to avoid getting caught in the path of a hurricane. “People would constantly ask us what we did to prepare the boat for hurricane season,” said Gus. “Our prep? Don’t be there!” Even when Mother Nature isn’t a factor, they routinely choose a safe harbour that will protect the Indigo throughout the winter, stay put for the season and use it as their base for excursions ashore. Because, as Carol stressed, they’re “on the boat”. It’s their home. They don’t cruise for the summer then pack up and go back to life in the States.

own

In 2007, they crossed the Atlantic and spent the next five years in the eastern Mediterranean— always wintering in Turkey. During that time, they journeyed inland through Israel, Syria, Lebanon and Egypt. “With the way the area is today, a trip like that wouldn’t be possible,” said Carol. “We feel extremely lucky to have been able to travel to places that the majority of Americans will never see.” They have also witnessed camel wrestling, weaseled their way out of a licence dispute at a border crossing by bonding with the customs officers, who happened to be Chicago Bulls fans, and photographed an endless number of world wonders. Gus still says that the greatest thing is the

people they meet; the personal stories they hear and the local perspectives on culture, politics and religion. “When the culture is very different from your own, that’s when you learn the most. It’s the most fascinating part of what we’re doing right now,” he said.

They finally made it to Barcelona in September 2014—a city “bigger and better than its reputation” according to Gus—and have the Indigo to thank for their incredible, successful voyage thus far.

The Indigo is the third boat the couple has owned together. “We bought it with this specific lifestyle in mind—travelling across oceans and seas, living on it nonstop,” said Carol. Gus used to race—across

The nav station, along with pilot books, help the couple command the boat.

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the Atlantic, to Tahiti, etc.—so it was important to him that the boat actually sails well. They also wanted a sailboat that would feel like a home, look attractive and had a cockpit in the aft. “You don’t need a boat this nice to do what we’re doing, but we had the means to buy something elegant, beautiful and comfortable, as well as reliable,” explained Gus. Right now, the Indigo is in winter mode. Framed family photos line a slim shelf behind the couch in the galley. Colourful, woven rugs from Turkey cover the gorgeous, rich wood floors below deck. “But in summer, when we’re cruising, these would be a hazard,” Carol pointed out.

The Indigo can function while heeling, or leaning, 30 degrees to either side so there are some unique features to the sailboat. A gimballed stove, which swings back and forth on two pivot points, keeps any simmering pots and pans level as the boat sways.

Designated compartments in the fridge keep food from rolling about, and when their cabinets start to run low on cans and boxes, Carol blows up wine bladders to fill the empty spaces. A lee cloth can be pulled out from under the couches and fastened to hooks on the shelves above, forming a sort of cocoon, to keep you from rolling onto the floor while you’re asleep in rough water. The Indigo also has a saltwater tap, a freshwater tap and a foot pump at the kitchen sink. In recent

They finally made it to Barcelona in September 2014 and have the Indigo to thank for their incredible, successful voyage thus far. years, technical developments, such as water makers, have made a huge difference for sailors. “It used to be whatever freshwater you brought onboard was what you had for the entirety of your voyage,” said Carol.

“If you ran out, you were in trouble.” With a water maker, now they even get to shower in freshwater.

Communication has also improved greatly since they left Chicago with their Motorola flip phones in hand.

And the Kindle has proven to be the perfect invention for them—people without a TV, who have no space to stockpile paperbacks.

As much as they love their lifestyle, Carol and Gus have decided that within a year or two they will head back to dry land, back to the United States and their family. Gus, 75, said, “Life on a boat keeps a person physically active and prolongs ‘old age’ in a way.

However, you start to feel the things you’ve always done, the things that come naturally to you when you’re sailing, get a little harder with each passing year.” They will miss the excitement of pulling into an unexplored port, of feeling the wind propel them towards their next adventure, but they have plenty of memories and photos to keep them company when they say goodbye to life at sea.

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ALL THAT JAZZ

JAZZ LANDED IN BARCELONA NEARLY A CENTURY AGO, BUT WHERE IS IT AT TODAY AND WHAT CHALLENGES DOES THE GENRE FACE?

BY TORI SPARKS

I

f you ask someone who is visiting Barcelona (or any other part of Spain) what their plans are for the evening, they might say they’re looking to catch a little live music. Most of them would probably say they want to see flamenco. A few might say that they’re looking for jazz. Barcelona has a deep history of jazz music that has cyclically thrived and faded over the course of the past century.

Jazz started creeping into Barcelona’s public consciousness at the beginning of the Twenties. Local groups with colourful names like “Chocolate Jackson” and “Harry Fleming and His Blue Bird’s Symphonic Jazz Orchestra” were some of the first on the scene. In the early Thirties, black musicians from the USA, Cuba, and the Dominican Republic started touring through Barcelona regularly, sometimes backed by Barcelona-based bands like Demon’s Jazz and the Orquestra del Hot Club.

In the ensuing decades, the same dance crazes that were popular in the States—such as the Charleston, foxtrot, or cakewalk—found their way overseas, as did some of the most influential international artists of the time: Louis Armstrong, Ella Fitzgerald, Artie Shaw, Lionel Hampton, and others. Then, in the post-Civil War years, there was an explosion of local jazz ensembles that made their mark on the local scene with the help of a few passionate promoters and journalists.

One of these was Alfredo Papo, an Italian immigrant who ran one of the first and most famous rooms in Barcelona history: The Hot Club of the Forties and Fifties. He was also a respected journalist who was frequently published in jazz newsletters and magazines around Europe. Other influential figures include Enric Vázquez, who ran the influential RNE radio programme “Jazz Selection” from 1958 to 1965, and was the editor of the journal Jazz Quártica, among other claims to fame.

(He would later go on to be a professor at the

renowned Taller de Musics, founded in 1969.)

In the Fifties, the city began to see the influence of Latin jazz, followed by a generation known as modern jazz players in the late Fifties and early Sixties—including Tete Montoliu, a pianist who is often cited as the greatest Barcelona-born jazz musician in history.

From the Sixties until the Eighties, other now-famous Barcelona jazz venues and organisations were established, such as Club Jamboree in Plaça Reial, followed by professional organisations such as the Association of Jazz and Modern Music of Cataunya (AMJM) in 1989. The school Tallers de Músics opened their own club, JazzSí, in 1992, and after having fallen into disuse, Jamboree was reopened in 1993 by the music promotion company Mas i Mas, which has since proved itself to be a prominent force on the live music scene of the city.

This may make for interesting reading about the musical and cultural history of the city, but where is Barcelona’s jazz world at today?

Joaquin Marin, who has booked the concerts at JazzSí since the day the club first opened, has seen much of the city’s jazz history as it was written. “I've been in Barcelona my whole life, and I’ve been here (booking shows at JazzSí) for 18 years,” Marin says. “And the school has been around for over 30 years. We’re an institution.”

The club is an open door that welcomes all musicians. The idea was to give the students from the music school, Taller de Músics, a place to perform, but it became so popular that they started booking talented local and touring acts with different levels of experience and recognition.

Marin adds in his gravelly voice, “I'm only in charge of the club, mind you, but the multiple facets of the Taller de Músics organisation has been a massive help to the jazz community here in Barcelona.” He says that it all feeds back into the system. “Having a school,

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a club, a foundation, even a record label, all help both the students who attend the school, by providing them with opportunities, and the music community at large in the city.”

Marin says that the world of jazz in Barcelona has changed a great deal in the last few decades, and musically it’s mostly for the better. There are many more musicians these days than in the past and, thanks to schools like Taller de Músics, ESMUC (L'Escola Superior de Música de Catalunya), and the Liceu, they have a higher level of quality and professionalism than ever before.

Marin says that the world of jazz has changed a great deal in the last few decades, mostly for the better.

“These young people have studied long and hard with some of the greats of the past, and have benefitted from their knowledge and experience—and from the support of the club.

And it shows,” Marin says, justifiably sounding like a proud father.

Another heavyweight talent booker for a still legendary club is Pere Pons. Pons has been the talent buyer for club Jamboree since 2010, and the organiser of the Mas i Mas Music Festival since 2012. He has been a journalist, radio host

Carles Benavent, from Poble Sec, is a highly acclaimed flamenco and jazz bassist.

Toni Pagès from Nu Roots PHOTO BY YAN PEKAR

(currently on “L'Home de Jazz” and “Planeta Omega” on Radio 4), and music lover in the jazz world for decades.

As one of the other movers and shakers in an increasingly shrinking circuit, he agrees with Marin that the current situation in Barcelona is bright, musically, but says that economically and culturally it is dark. “It’s a terrible paradox. We have the best-trained musicians in the history of the local scene, but there are so few spaces where they can perform.” He says that he accepted the job as booker and festival organiser without thinking twice; he felt he could make a change in the music scene. “Between the economic crisis and the ever more restrictive laws, everything is completely f***ed in the increasingly precarious world of culture. But some of us out here in the trenches refuse to lose heart. We believe in the magic of live music.”

A prolific local musician who has played frequently at Jamboree (and nearly every other jazz club on the local circuit) is trumpet player and bandleader Dani Alonso, known for leading the Barcelona Jazz Orchestra and other ensembles. He remembers hearing about the beginnings of jazz in Barcelona from his teachers and from older players that came before him.

“The old Cova del Drac (also a club by Mas i Mas) was a legendary room for decades, they supported local artists and brought in great international players. Though they’ve stopped doing concerts now,” he muses. “There was the Hot Club of Barcelona, which is even older than the historic club of the same name in Paris.” He wistfully remembers hearing stories about Alfredo Pato bringing in Count Basie,

Miles Davis, and Dizzy Gillespie for weeklong residencies. “Now,” he says, “there are fewer places to play. Most of the live music rooms that do exist in Barcelona today are booked by guys with their eye on the cash register, not by jazz aficionados.” Though he says there are a few exceptions to this rule—such as JazzSí and Jamboree—in general the musicians of Barcelona are left scrambling to make a living, and supplement their income teaching or doing other kinds of work.

“You figure it out,” he says with a shrug.

“You love playing the music, and you do what you have to do to keep it going.”

In spite of the seemingly dire circumstances, there are a few professional institutions that provide support for the city’s musical community. The AMJM is one example: A cultural organisation and trade union, created with the official mission statement to “defend the interests of the professional musician, be the legitimate liaison between the institutions and the musician, and disseminate the music of our members.” They push for social reforms, give legal advice and publish a comprehensive newsletter with a list of local resources. Dick Them has been a member of the board since 2004 and chairman since 2012. He applied for the post of chairman because he “saw a place for improvements in the world of jazz in Catalunya and wanted to be a part of it.”

He laments that jazz, politically, is still perceived as a marginal phenomenon, and the aid received from the government sector is residual at best. He says it doesn’t help that the public is accustomed to more commercial forms of music consumption.

>>

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BARCELONA JAZZ ESSENTIALS REGULAR NIGHTS Dani Alonso and the Barcelona Jazz Orchestra present “Swing in Sala Apolo” on March 22nd and April 26th.

There are jazz concerts at Jazz Si on Mondays and jazz jams on Wednesdays. Jamboree hosts regular Monday night WTF Jam Sessions, and frequent jazz concerts. The AMJM website (www.amjm. org) provides information regarding the local jazz and Modern Music scenes.

CLUBS Sala Apolo Nou de la Rambla 113 Tel. 93 441 40 01 www.sala-apolo.com/es Metro: Parallel (L3) Jamboree Pl. Reial 17 Tel. 93 319 17 89 www.masimas.com/ Metro: Liceu (L3)

Jazz Si PHOTO BY YAN PEKAR

Pere Pons puts it more bluntly. “Education, education, education! It remains a structural deficit here.” He says that the politicians suffer from a lack of understanding of the importance of live music to the culture of the city and the country. “The government is deaf, foolish and ignorant. The public audience is held captive by the rules they put in place. How are they supposed to support jazz or any kind of music when their government doesn’t?”

Dani Alonso says that 15 years ago, you could hear great jazz played on the streets—in Plaça del Pi, on the Rambla.

“But not anymore. They don’t issue enough permits,” he says angrily.

“Look at Paris, look at New Orleans. There are many more clubs, many more street musicians.

Why not here? There is so much history here, and so many good players today. It’s senseless.”

What that means is that the role of organisations like the AMJM is more critical than ever. They support initiatives such as ‘No Retalleu Cultura’, which was created to protest against the Generalitat’s budget cuts in their Culture department.

“We are the voice of our 300 members and partner organisations,” Them states. “Jazz is an important part of the cultural life of the

city and the country. When we detect any irregularity in the way things are being done in Barcelona or Catalunya, we get in touch with the cultural authorities to try to remedy it.”

Pons, Marin and the few remaining musicconscious local talent buyers do their part in holding up the roof of a shaky culture. Marin says, “There are some nights when we make money, and some nights when we lose money—like when there’s a Barça game on,” he laughs. “My job is to keep the club at an equilibrium, regardless. On those days, when you find yourself thinking ‘why do I do this?,’ you remember that it’s for respect. Respect for the music, for the musicians, and for the fans who . would rather hear jazz than watch football. For that reason, we don’t let anyone stop us.”

“That these musicians know they will have difficulty paying bills or filling the fridge, but still choose to make jazz their profession, still choose to share their music with the world— that is what keeps the genre alive,” says Pons.

And it seems that against the odds, the genre lives on here in Barcelona, carried by the passion and talent of the musicians and the seasoned professionals who guide them, even if the authorities are singing to a different tune.

“Some of us out here in the trenches refuse to lose heart.

We believe in the magic of live music ”

Jazz Si Club Requesens 2 Tel. 93 329 00 20 www.jazzsiclub.com Metro: Sant Antoni (L2) Campari Milano Ronda Universitat 35 Tel. 93 112 71 50 www.camparimilano.com Metro: Plaça Catalunya (L1, L3) Harlem Jazz Club Comtessa de Sobradiel 8 Tel. 93 310 07 55 www.harlemjazzclub.es Metro: Jaume I (L4) Jazzman Roger de Flor 238 Tel. 667 618 593 www.jazzmanbcn.com Metro: Verdaguer (L4, L5) Big Bang Bar Botella 7 Tel. 93 443 28 13 www.bigbangbarcelona.com Metro: Sant Antoni (L2) La Sonora de Gràcia Riera de Sant Miquel 59 Tel. 93 164 80 28 www.facebook.com/lasonoradegracia

Art'te Muntaner 83C Tel. 93 454 90 48 www.artte.es Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5), Fontana (L3) The Philharmonic Mallorca 204 Tel. 93 451 50 43 www.the-philharmonic.com Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) El Cafe Vienes Thursday Jazz Nights @ Casa Fuster Hotel Pg. de Gràcia 132 Tel. 90 220 23 45 www.hotelescenter.es/hotelcasa-fuster Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5)

JAZZ SCHOOLS Taller de Músics Requesens 3-5 Tel. 93 329 56 67 www.tallerdemusics.com Conservatori Municipal de Música de Barcelona Bruc 110 Tel. 93 458 43 03 www.bcn.es/conservatori Conservatori Superior de Música del Liceu Rambla dels Caputxins, 63 Tel. 93 304 11 16 www.conservatori-liceu.es Escola Superior de Música de Catalunya Padilla 155 (L’Auditori) Tel. 933 523 011 www.esmuc.cat Centre d'Estudis Musical Numancia 111-113, Bajos Tel. 93 315 87 10 or 609 531 277 www.escuelamusica.es

FESTIVALS San Miguel Mas i Mas Festival August 2015 www.masimas.com/es/ festival Voll-Damm Festival Internacional de Jazz October-November 2015 www.theproject.es Festival Blues Barcelona July 2015 www.bluesbcn.com/es

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INTERVIEW: A JAZZ TEACHER MIGUEL MONTAGUT

By Tori Sparks

Miguel Montagut is a jazz guitarist and teacher who has been involved with the founding of two music schools in Catalunya. He also teaches privately and performs with a number of local and international artists.

Q: What got you into playing jazz in the first place, how long have you been playing, and some of the musicians you've worked with?

A: My hometown is Barcelona, and while I've mostly lived here, I've also spent time teaching and performing in Madrid, Zaragoza, Lleida and Valencia. I've been a professional musician for 30 years. My interest in jazz started with my parents, who were big fans of the classic jazz of the Forties and Fifties. That was the popular music of their generation, and their records were the first music I fell in love with. Later my attention was drawn to the rock, blues, and R&B that incorporated aspects of jazz, or the other way around. It was in the Seventies that I started studying formally, starting with the "Zeleste" school, which was the first school in Barcelona to teach modern music.

Two of the professors, Jordi Bonell and Albert Cubero, were huge influences on me and remain two of my favourite guitarists. Years later I ended up playing with Cubero, which was a period of great learning for me, personally and professionally. I was lucky to be able to combine teaching (guitar, bass, and theory) with performing in big bands, dance bands, and accompanying soloists.

Q: Tell us a little about your experiences as a professor. Who are some of the students you've worked with?

A: At this point in my career I've taught hundreds of students. Some of them are Llorenç Ametller, Javier Mas, Carles Benavent, and Euclydes Mattos, a great Brazilian guitarist now living in New York. In the Nineties I participated in the creation of the Escola de Músics de Lleida and in Barcelona the Escola de Música Blues en Sol. It was during this period that I began to spend a lot of time organising jam sessions with the students at Barcelona venues such as London Bar, Jamboree, others, so that students would have a public outlet for their music.

Q: What is the philosophy behind your teaching methods?

A: I've learned that the experience of teaching, learning, and playing music is unique to each individual, and that personalised attention is the only way to really deepen a person's interest and increase their level of musicianship.

The overly rigid methods that are sometimes used to teach classical music, for example, don't work when teaching jazz. I approach every student differently.

Q: In your opinion, who are or were some of the most important musicians in the jazz scene in Barcelona?

A: Without doubt the greatest musician was pianist and composer Tete Montoliu—he was respected everywhere, in Spain and in the US and other parts of the world. We, in Barcelona, were so lucky to be able to see him play from just a few metres away in small clubs like La Cova del Drac. He was a master. Today, I am a big fan of artists like Raynald Colom, a great trumpet player. Also Ximo Tebar, a Valencian, who has played a lot in Barcelona, though he also spends time in the States. I've also always been very interested by the fusion of jazz with other styles, such as flamenco, Latin music, rock…Chano Dominguez from Cádiz, who lived here until recently, is a great example, or Ximo Tebar and Jorge Pardo, who have developed a jazzy language that incorporate elements of other genres and is incredibly original.

Q: How has the world of teaching and performing jazz changed in the past 30 years?

A: The main difference is that it was once a personal adventure. The circle of people involved was smaller, so as a student, you had a very individualised relationship with your

teachers. There was a large component of self-teaching, so to speak, and self-discovery.

While it's great that the circle of musicians playing, teaching and learning jazz is wider than in the past, you can see its effect on the teaching methods: We have school with very specific programmes, institutionalised environments, overcrowding, a lack of originality in terms of style. You see it in the schools, so therefore you see it in the musicians coming out of the schools.

Q: What role has the local government played in developing the jazz and/or music scene in general in the city?

A: The ‘good times’ of jazz happened in the Nineties, when both private and institutional grants were a huge help. There was some government funding, too, but over the years, Barcelona City Council has not been a promoter of live music and/or music in the streets. If anything, it's the opposite. Sometimes they'll support a big festival, because the media attention and the arrival of international stars raises the public profile of the city and attracts tourism, but most music fans who come into the city for these festivals have no idea of the repressive policies that strangle the live music scene in Barcelona. The government takes shortcuts that negatively affect the long-term possibilities for the musical culture of the city. There should be much more public funding for local jazz clubs, radio programmes, and street musicians.

Q: Do you think that the general populace in Barcelona has a great love of jazz today? Is there enough interest from the public to support a strong local circuit?

A: These days, it is really is difficult to be valued as professional musician in both Catalunya and Spain. It's not a problem with jazz, it's a problem with the public's perception of the value of live music in general. The upside is that we see more and more kids learning to play an instrument ,in schools or privately, and that's a great thing. Jazz is taken seriously as an academic discipline. What we need to overcome is the perception that studying music is all well and good, but making music once you’re out of school should be just "for fun”— it’s not taken seriously as a profession. I'm sure that we will find a way to educate the public in this respect, but it's slow going.

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SALVATION BY

INNOVATION

3D PRINTING OF PROSTHETICS IN BARCELONA’S FAB LABS BRINGS HOPE TO SYRIA’S REFUGEES. TEXT BY SAM MEDNICK. Barcelona-based freelance journalist Sam Mednick recently travelled to the Turkish/Syrian border to cover the humanitarian crisis and civil war and unexpectedly discovered a story that linked back to Barcelona.

I

n 2012, Abdul Mola was travelling from Damascus to Homs to visit his family, when he felt a piercing pain rush through his leg. The 15-year-old had been shot by a sniper, causing him to lose a limb; yet, it wasn’t until February 2013, when Mola crossed into Turkey, that he received the help he needed. Three kilometres from the Syrian border, on the edge of the tiny town of Reyhanli, sits a clinic that is trying to restore hope to more than 30,000 Syrians who have lost their limbs due to snipers and barrel bombs, in what is a seemingly endless civil war. As one of its many projects, Syria Relief, a UK and Turkish-based NGO, has developed clinics specialising in prosthetic limbs.

“I found out about them on the internet, got a lift across the border and they gave me a new leg,” says Mola smiling. He now works at the clinic helping to fit other refugees with limbs.

ing in 2011, the cardiologist defected from the Assad Regime and escaped to England. “The corruption was horrible and I didn’t want to be a part of it,” he explains. A few years later, however, he returned to Syria to spearhead the prosthetics clinics. Working together with a team of four international doctors, Alsoud and his colleagues train Syrian refugees on the ground, teaching them how to craft limbs and fit them. They now have three clinics in Turkey and Syria and are looking to establish more within the region.

“We try to bring back hope and put a smile on their faces,” says Alsoud, “but it’s hard and resources are limited.”

It’s this challenge of limited resources that has instigated a different approach on the other side of the Syrian border. Since November 2014, Syrian amputees in Jordan’s Zaatari refugee camp have been receiving another

product: printable 3D prosthetic hands for Jordan’s Syrian refugees.

For those unfamiliar with the buzzword, Fab Labs (short for Fabrication Laboratories) are paving the way for a remarkable new future. Incubators of digital innovation, Fab Labs support the concept of investigating new modes of production aross the globe, from industrial design and architecture, to creating 3D prosthetic limbs. Digital fabrication “puts a sense of digital craft into traditional making,” explains Awad.

“Barcelona has a strong counterculture vibe.

You feel like you’re always on the cutting edge of what’s possible.”

It has been called the worst humanitarian crisis of our day, with seven and a half million internally displaced people in Syria and three million refugees living in Jordan, Lebanon, Turkey and other nearby countries. In addition, there are an estimated one million injured people, with amputations rife.

“There is a lack of surgeons and there are very poor medical services within Syria,” says Dr. Mahrous Alsoud. “So if anyone injures their leg or their arm, it usually ends in amputation.” Six months before the Syrian upris-

type of prosthetic limb—one that’s cheaper to make, faster to deliver, designed in Barcelona and digitally printed in Jordan.

28-year-old Lana Awad from Jordan is responsible for the creative direction of the Refugee Open Ware initiative (ROW), a humanitarian organisation that establishes digital fabrication laboratories and innovation centres specialising in prosthetics. Whilst most of their work is based in Jordan, Awad works here in Barcelona, where she tests prototype designs in collaboration with Fab Lab Barcelona. The

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Refugee Open Ware (ROW)

And this is the advantage 3D prosthetics have over the traditional kind: the ability to customise them and make the limbs feel as ‘real’ as possible for the recipients.

“When we approach our patients, especially children, it’s always important to get answers about what their interests are,” says Awad.

“We ask them about their favourite cartoons, their favourite colours, and what kind of toys they like to play with, in order to deduce if they prefer soft, plushy sensations, like stuffed animals, or hard plastic sensations. This helps us to create something as personalised as possible.”

And this ability to combine the physical world with the digital one is an area in which Barcelona is at the forefront. With the inception of the first Fab Lab in Europe in 2007, the city is now home to eight innovation incubators.

“Barcelona has a strong counterculture vibe,” says Awad. “There’s a huge push for innovation and a drive to create, and you feel like you’re always on the cutting edge of what’s possible.”

Possibilities such as the ability to create 3D hands for Syrian refugees in Jordan—something that has yet to be done anywhere else in the Syria region. “We have 3D printers in our Turkey labs,” explains Dr. Alsoud, “but we don’t have the technical training or support, so we can’t use them,” he laments.

The hope is that what’s being done in Jordan will follow in other prosthetics clinics, and it will help them to advance their work and increase the types of limbs they’re able to provide. Awad and her team are at the helm of this crusade. After finishing her master’s degree in Digital Fabrication in Architecture at the Institute for Advanced Architecture of Catalunya (IaaC), Awad decided to stay in

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Barcelona to write her thesis. For the past year and a half, together with Fab Lab Barcelona, she’s been exploring the use of digital fabrication methods to restore not just the physical or visual look of a human hand, but also the user’s sensations through embedded electronics.

“What we found to be universal,” explains

It’s easy to get a feel for their likes and dislikes, but without seeing them, you can forget that these kids are enduring extremely traumatic experiences.”

Awad, “is that all of the refugees want something to look as human as possible. They want something organic, more skin-coloured and flesh-toned and something that feels like an extension of their arm. They’re coping with a huge loss and anything we can do to alleviate that is what we’re hoping to achieve.”

She recounts one particularly moving story of a design she’s currently creating for a sixyear-old Syrian boy named Zain, who lost his left hand in a house fire.

“This case was so touching, and we wanted to do all that we could for him,” she says. “Zain was a huge fan of Ben 10, a popular Middle Eastern cartoon. So I designed a watch that allowed him to feel as though he were the main

hero. In the show, Ben 10 wears a watch that lets him transform into various crime-fighting aliens, so the prosthesis was designed with a 3D printed ‘watch’ on the gauntlet that housed the electronics. The face of the watch has display buttons that allow Zain to toggle through the aliens, select his favourite and ‘transform’ through a small light show.” Awad’s currently putting the finishing touches on the design, and they’re planning to fit Zain’s hand before Jordan’s King Abdullah.

Although Awad says stories like this entice her to continue pushing forward in her work, she reveals that the biggest challenge is feeling disconnected from those receiving her designs.

“The hardest part is losing a sense of connection with the refugees. It would be nice to know more about them and understand their situations better. It’s easy to receive their files and get a feel for their likes and dislikes, but without seeing them, you can forget that these kids are enduring extremely traumatic experiences.”

Awad hopes to take her first trip to Jordan’s Zaatari refugee camp this month to meet her team on the ground along with the recipients of her hands. The goal is to expand into printing entire arms and legs within the next year, and to then enable the Jordanians to take over and start designing and printing the limbs themselves.

“We want to make it sustainable, not just for Syrian refugees, but for refugees all over the world,” she explains.

In Turkey, Dr. Alsoud and his team echo Awad’s sentiments. As he looks at his 3D printers sitting idle on the shelves, he hopes that one day they can help refugees on the Turkish side of the border to create an easier solution to this increasing need, which doesn’t seem to have an end in sight.

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MUSIC

FLIP THE SCRIPT

ROCK AND ROLL ROYALTY

The Subways. March 18th Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547.

English indie rock band The Subways will be performing live at Sala Bikini this month, as part of their new album tour. The trio have been part of the indie scene since 2005, when they released their unforgettable debut album, Young For Eternity. Originally from Welwyn Garden City in Hertfordshire, the band includes singer and guitarist Billy Lunn, his brother Josh Morgan on drums, and bassist Charlotte Cooper, who also does vocals. With ripped jeans and bleached hair, the three are known for their distinct, grungy style as well as their energetic, punk-inspired sound, and they named themselves after the local subway underpass where they used to hang out.

Their visit to Barcelona coincides with the release of their self-titled fourth album, for which they have done absolutely everything themselves, including production, mixing, and equipment—it’s 100 percent The Subways, according to Lunn, who described the process as a “voyage of self-discovery”.

Random fact: The Subways made a guest appearance on American teen drama series The O.C. back in 2005, performing their early hits, ‘Rock and Roll Queen’ and ‘Oh Yeah’.

The Script. March 30th. Sant Jordi Club. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

In August 2008, three Dubliners—Danny O’Donoghue (lead singer, pianist), Mark Sheehan (vocalist, guitarist), and Glen Power (drummer)—burst onto the music scene with the hit song ‘The Man Who Can’t Be Moved’. It had been a long time in the making.

Best friends since they were 12, O’Donoghue and Sheehan headed to Tinseltown at a young age, where, rather than fulfilling their dreams on stage, they found themselves in the studio, writing and producing songs for big-name performers, including Britney Spears, Boyz II Men and TLC. With that experience under their belts, they headed home and recruited Power, this time with the intention of putting the spotlight on their own band, The Script.

Since then, they’ve gone from strength to strength, with four number one albums, numerous hit singles, and two seasons as a coach on The Voice UK for O’Donoghue, which led to the release of the hit single ‘Hall of Fame’ in collaboration with cocoach and former Black Eyed Pea, will.i.am.

During the first half of 2015, the band are doing a whistle-stop tour across the globe to promote their fourth album, No Sound Without Silence (2014), coming to Barcelona at the end of the month.

0 EDITOR’S PICK

QUEEN OF FOLK

Joan Baez. March 19th & 20th Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

For two consecutive nights at the Palau de la Música, American folk legend Joan Baez will be performing as part of the 16th Festival Mil·lenni. Baez began her career over 55 years ago, making her breakthrough at the Newport Folk Festival in 1959. With songs of political and social protest, the performance propelled her into the spotlight at a time when the civil rights movement in the United States was gaining momentum, and there was increasing hope that change was on the horizon. She became one of its prominent figures, striking up a friendship with Martin Luther King himself and singing alongside Bob Dylan at the 1963 march in Washington, as King delivered his historic “I Have a Dream” speech. Her position in the new counterculture continued well into the next decade, as she became a vocal opponent of the Vietnam war. To this day, Baez has continued to use her music as a form of protest, adding more causes, such as the environment and gay and lesbian rights, to her list. She has recorded 24 studio albums and, at the age of 74, shows little sign of slowing down, with unconfirmed rumours of new songs set for release this year.

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IN CONCERT 4th. Jorge Drexler. BARTS. Paral·lel 62.

7th. Kitty, Daisy & Lewis Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547.

8th. Tokio Hotel Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547.

10th. Mark Lanegan Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547.

14th. James Taylor Gran Teatre del Liceu.

Ramblas 51-59.

12th. Franco Battiato.

Palau de la Música Catalana.

Palau de la Música 4-6.

18th. José Feliciano L’Auditori. Lepant 150.

16th. Bob Geldof Gran Teatre del Liceu.

Ramblas 51-59.

18th. The Subways Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547.

19th-20th. Joan Baez Palau de la Música Catalana.

Palau de la Música 4-6.

24th. Buzzcocks Sala Apolo.

Nou de la Rambla 113.

27th. Robbie Williams Palau Sant Jordi.

Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

27th. Satellite Stories Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

30th. The Script Sant Jordi Club.

Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

30th. Gregory Porter Gran Teatre del Liceu.

Ramblas 51-59.

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ART

TO INFINITY...

AND BEYOND!D

Pixar. 25 años de animación Until May 3rd.

CaixaForum. Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8.

Founded by Edwin Catmull and Steve Jobs in 1986, Pixar has produced a plethora of animated films that have gone on to become award-winning box office hits, clocking up 26 Oscars and seven Golden Globes. ‘Pixar. 25 años de animación’ celebrates the feature-length and short films that the animation studio produced in its first 25 years, looking at the iconic characters, stories and worlds created. The exhibition, which kicked off at the MoMA, New York in 2005, enables visitors to discover the magical world of Pixar—from drawings and storyboards to models and digital installations—and the creative talent of its artists, through both traditional and digital media.

Alongside the exhibition, the CaixaForum is hosting a series of conferences on the subject of Pixar Studios. Each lecture looks at a different theme and includes a guest speaker. The conferences will be taking place weekly until March 26th.

THE ART OF POLITICS

Prophetia Opens March 13th.

Fundació Joan Miró. Parc de Montjuïc.

Curated by Imma Prieto, ‘Prophetia’ tells the story of the European Union through the eyes of 25 artists who have followed its formation and progress, focusing on Europe’s philosophical and ideological foundations. The exhibition begins with a video by the Albanian contemporary artist Anri Sala, capturing a time when the European dream was at its peak. However, it goes on to present works that are much more recent and depict an uncertainty surrounding the European project. As the artists featured in this exhibition come from a diverse range of backgrounds, a mix of views and opinions are presented. As a whole, ‘Prophetia’ can be seen as an invitation to reflect on the history and evolution of the European Union, as well as its current state. It is structured around concepts that are closely related to the philosophical foundations and ideology of Europe, such as correspondence and responsibility.

0 EDITOR’S PICK

TALE OF TWO MASTERS

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Picasso/Dalí. Dalí/Picasso Opens March 20th.

Museu Picasso. Montcada 15-23.

Picasso and Dalí. Dalí and Picasso. Two names etched proudly in Catalunya’s cultural heritage; two icons and two mavericks, born just 25 years apart. For the first time ever, the great masters of modern art stand side by side at the Museu Picasso for an iconic exhibition, bringing together rarely loaned works from more than 25 international art museums and private collections from around the world.

Organised in collaboration with the Dalí Museum in St. Petersburg, Florida (where it ran from November until February), this landmark exhibition offers a ‘rereading of the relationship between two key figures of 20th-century art’, and challenges conventional historical views of the two artists as isolated and politically opposed figures, who developed their styles independently.

“Surprisingly, this is a part of the history that has not been told before,” says Museu Picasso’s Director, Bernardo Laniado-Romero. Dozens of works, including paintings, drawings, prints and sculpture, tell the tale of their relationship, the influence they had on each other, their response to the contentious times in which they lived, and the radical art movements which they were part of. Not to be missed!

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ART PICKS OPENING CAIXAFORUM Moche art from ancient Peru: gold, myths and rituals.

This collection of ancient Moche art provides a fascinating insight into the civilisation’s sophisticated culture, beliefs, myths and rituals.

From March 6th. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8.

FUNDACIÓ JOAN MIRÓ The Wilson Exercises. The third exhibition in the Lesson 0 series, a project by Anna Craycroft and Marc Vives.

From March 27th. Parc de Montjuïc.

SALA DE LA CIUTAT I Like Barcelona: People, Architecture and Urban Planning. In this interactive exhibition, citizens describe their relationship with Barcelona’s architecture and urban planning through their photos and recordings of their opinions on the subject. Visitors can vote for their favourite photograph and opinion, all of which were collected during the last two 48H Open House weekends.

Until March 20th. Ciutat 2.

LAST CHANCE MUSEU D’ARQUEOLOGIA DE CATALUNYA The prodigious decade. To coincide with the centenary of the Mancomunitat (Commonwealth) of Catalunya, this photographic exhibition explores its role in regional architecture in the early 20th century.

Until March 15th. Pg. Santa Madrona 39.

MEAM A look at the work by Josep Llimona - 150 years. To celebrate the 150th anniversary of the sculptor’s birth, MEAM has brought together a retrospective collection of his works that commemorate his career.

Until March 1st. Barra de Ferro 5.

GALERIA TRAMA Latitudes by Elisa Murcia and Jenny Owens. These two up-and-coming photographers present an exhibition of black and white photographs (digital and analogue), which show details, memories and feelings from their lives.

Until March 2nd. Petrixol 5.

MARLBOROUGH David Rodríguez Caballero: Vibraciones de la Materia.

The artist is exhibiting around 15 of his works, the majority of which are made out of aluminium, brass or copper.

Until March 21st. Enric Granados 68.

LA CAPELLA Triple Mortal. Habitar, sentir, pensar. This exhibition features 21 pieces that highlight the eclectic range of techniques used for artistic expression by students from three schools of art and design across the city: the Escola Massana, the Escola Llotja and the Faculty of Fine Arts.

Until March 22nd. Hospital 56.

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MISC. DON’T MISS THE BOAT

KEEP IT SWEET

Festa de Sant Medir From Carrer de San Salvador to els Jardinets de Gràcia.

March 3rd. Starting at 8pm. www.santmedir.org The modern-day version of this sweet festival started in 1830, when a Gràcia baker, Josep Vidal i Granés, fell desperately ill. He vowed that if God cured him, he would make an annual pilgrimage to the Chapel of Sant Medir, located in his hometown of Sant Cugat del Vallès. Once healthy, he announced his first pilgrimage by banging a drum and handing out sweets. Every year, more and more friends and neighbours joined in this festive occasion, forming the first “colla”—the Catalan name for a group or club—of the Sant Medir festival. Today, there are nearly 30 “colles” that participate in a procession of horses, carts and lorries through various streets of Gràcia. It’s quite an affair. Bring an umbrella, because whether or not there’s a chance of rain, you can turn it over and use it to catch the candy showering down on the crowd.

7th Mediterranean Currach Regatta Port Vell.

March 22nd, 11am-8pm.

Barcelona is celebrating St. Patrick’s Day in style with the seventh International Currach Regatta, run by Iomramh, an association that promotes Irish culture and sport in Barcelona. The currach is a traditional Irish rowing boat, and 20 international teams, both amateur and professional, will be coming to take part in the regatta. Spectators will be able to enjoy the races from the port in between the Maremagnum bridge and Via Laietana (near the Roy Lichtenstein sculpture).

Besides the races, the day will be packed with Irish and Catalan culture. Expect live traditional Irish music, Irish dancers, face painters and theatrical performers. And, of course, it wouldn’t be St Patrick’s without the Guinness and lots of traditional Irish food.

BOTTOMS UP!

READING SEBALD

Sebald Variations.

Opens March 10th. www.cccb.org Opening to coincide with the KOSMOPOLIS 2015 Festival (March 17th22nd), the latest exhibition at the CCCB examines the work of the late German writer W.G. Sebald. It looks at the various ways his writing has engaged with other works of art and pieces of literature since he passed away in 2001, and explores the strategies for using images with texts.

Much of Sebald’s work explores great themes of the 20th century, such as migration, historical discourse, politics, and the role of the author.

‘Sebald Variations’ invites a critical reflection of the writer’s work and observes his ongoing impact on the artistic world today.

Barcelona Beer Festival March 13th, 14th and 15th Maritime Museum, Sala Marquès de Comillas www.barcelonabeerfestival.com Now in its fourth edition, the Barcelona Beer Festival is a three-day event, ideal for the beer fanatic. The festival includes over 300 different types of craft beer, as well as some tasty treats to accompany the amber brew. Alongside the eating and drinking, there will be a range of beer-related activities—from workshops and conferences to ‘Meet the brewer’, where you have the opportunity to talk to the festival’s international line-up of beer brewers. For the second year running, the event will be taking place at the lovely Sala Marquès de Comillas in the Maritime Museum, Drassanes.

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BEST OF THE REST FILM 6th. Selma, Calvary, Maps to the Stars, Third Person 13th. Inherent Vice 20th. The Angriest Man In Brooklyn, Home.

27th. Citizenfour, Cinderella.

Check out our weekly film blog, A Bitter Life Through Cinema by Lucas Cavazos, for more info about upcoming film releases.

BUSINESS 2nd-5th. World Mobile Congress. Fira Gran Via. 11th. American Society Happy Hour. 8-11.30pm. Bonavida. Casp, 22.

12th. BWN Coffee Morning (see page 45). 11am-1pm. Via Agusta 123.

18th. Guiri Business Drink. 7pm-9pm. Cinco Jotas, Plaça Espanya

SPORT 15th. Barcelona Marathon. 8.30am. Av. Reina Maria Cristina.

22nd. El Clásico: FC Barcelona v Real Madrid. 9pm. Campnou.

22nd. Oakley GFNY Barcelona. 8am. Piscinas Picornell.

KIDS Every Sunday. Poliorama Theatre.

12.30pm. Viu el Teatre. Passatge Toledo 6.

Every Sunday. Arissa. A Photography Workshop for Families.

11:30am -1:30pm. CCCB. Montalegre 5.

Every weekend. The Collage Revolution Saturdays, 12pm and 5.30pm, Sundays 12pm. MACBA 7th-8th. Cantant amb el Cor. El Petit Liceu. La Rambla 51-59

MARKETS 1st. Two Market. 11am-8pm. L’Ovella Negra. Zamora 78.

7th-8th. Palo Alto. 11am-8pm. Carrer dels Pellaires, 30 8th. Flea Market Barcelona. 11am-7pm. Portal de Santa Madrona.

8th. BLBCN Vintage Market. 12pm. Nou de Sant Francesc 4.

14th-15th. Demanoenmano. 11am-8pm. CCCB. Montalegre 5.

22nd. Original by Two Market. 4-9pm. Carders 12.

FESTIVALS 4th-7th. MUTEK6. www.mutek.org 5th-7th. Abroadfest.

6th-26th. DeProp Festival 2015. La Pedrera. Provença 261-265.

12th-19th. Mecal Film Festival. www.mecalbcn.org 17th. St. Patrick’s Day.

THEATRE 11th-23rd. Siegfried. Liceu, La Rambla, 51-59.

18th. 7pm. Tristan und Isolde. Liceu, La Rambla, 51-59 27th-28th. FÒSSIL, Jordi Cortés - High Reality. Espai Dansat

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2/25/15 6:08 PM

11 HORACIO FUMERO & PEDRO JAVIER GONZALEZ DÚO Flamenco jazz.

10pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comt-

10

MARK LANEGAN US alt rock musician and singersongwriter.

7.45pm. Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547

MUTEK6 Sixth Edition of the International Festival of Digital Creativity with digital creativity and electronic music.

4th-7th. Multiple locations. www.mutek.org

FESTA DE SANT MEDIR Sweet-throwing shenanigans in the streets of Gràcia.

8pm. From Carrer de San Salvador to els Jardinets de Gràcia.

MOBILE WORLD CONGRESS Mobile World Capital Barcelona will host the world’s biggest mobile event.

2nd-5th. Fira de Barcelona. Gran Via. www.mobileworldcongress.com

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WEDNESDAY

3

TUESDAY

2

MONDAY

15 BARCELONA MARATHON 8.30am. Avinguda de la Reina Maria Cristina.

SWING AT THE MNAC Join this free dance session with music by the Stradixies.

4pm-6pm. MNAC. Montjuïc.

PERDIENDO EL TIEMPO A dance, theatre and circus show for children from age seven.

12.30pm. Poliorama. Toledo 6. (also 15th & 22nd) PALO ALTO MARKET Vintage, art, food, handmade stalls and djs.

11am-8pm. Pellaires 30.

(7th & 8th)

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TOKIO HOTEL The German pop rock band perform in Barcelona as part of their Feel It All World Tour Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547.

KITTY, DAISY & LEWIS A unique, vintage sound of R&B, swing, blues and rock ‘n’ roll.

Supported by The Dash.

8pm. Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547.

DEPROP FESTIVAL This festival of music and audiovisuals opens with Spanish indie band Beach Beach, with images by acclaimed young producer Roger Guàrdia.

8pm. La Pedrera. Provença 261-265.

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8

SUNDAY

7

SATURDAY

6

FRIDAY

BCNMP7 The seventh annual Music in Pro- BARCELONA BEER FESTIVAL gress cycle explores contemporary See page 24 popular music in Barcelona. With Museu Maritim (Until 15th) STA, The Slingshots and Griffi.

12

ABROADFEST This year’s mega music festival kicks off with Madeon, and Dzeko & Torres.

Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. www.abroadfest.com (5th – 7th).

BGKO The Barcelona Gypsy Klezmer Orchestra presents Balkan Reunion.

8pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

5

THURSDAY

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

For more information visit our website

MARCH 2015

WHAT'S ON

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HORACIO FUMERO & PEDRO JAVIER GONZALEZ DÚO Flamenco jazz.

10pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

18 BARCELONA v MAN CITY (Champions League Home Game) FILS Dance with the Vero Cendroya company.

8.30pm Casa Elizalde. València 302.

WEDNESDAYS JAZZ The Taller de Músics students show their talents.

7.45pm. JazzSí. Requesens 2.

MARK LANEGAN US alt rock musician and singersongwriter.

7.45pm. Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547

17

WOODY ARAGÓN Magic show with the internationally renowned illusionist.

8.30pm. Espai La Seca. Flassaders 40.

16

BOB GELDOF The Irishman is on full form and in town for the Suite Festival.

9pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.

LOCO LUNES Start the week right at Opium Mar’s Monday club night.

Passeig Maritim 34.

LA NIT DE FLAMENCA DE BARCELONA A night of Andalusian passion, music and dance. Olé!

9pm. Palau de la Música.

GREGORY PORTER Grammy Award-winning American jazz vocalist and songwriter.

9pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu.

GREGORY PORTER

CABOSANROQUE WITH TRUNA Improvised music by cello and electronic virtuoso Truna with CaboSanRoque.

8pm. Arts Santa Mónica. La Rambla 7. Free entry. Reserve.

THE YELLOW SUBMARINE George Dunning’s psychedelic Beatles film.

5pm. La Filmoteca. Pl. Salvador Seguí 1-9.

CARLES SANTOS The multi-faceted Spanish jazz pianist.

8pm & 10pm. Jamboree. Plaça Reial 17.

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DEPROP FESTIVAL Coriolà, Cinema en Curs, Bruno Zaffora & Andrés Pino.

8pm. La Pedrera. Provença 261-265.

JAÇ DE GATS The Barcelona-based jazz combo.

10pm. Harlem Jazz Club.

Comtessa de Sobradiel 8

BUZZCOCKS The English punk band, formed in 1976, is still going strong.

8.45pm. Sala Apolo.

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KOSMOPOLIS 15 AMPLIFIED LITERATURE FESTIVAL This literature festival examines literature in the context of the past, present and future. Talks, workshops and activities.

CCCB. Montalegre 5. (18th-22nd)

JOAN BAEZ See page 20.

9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

REBEKKA BAKKEN Norwegian jazz singer and composer.

L’Auditori. Lepant 150.

ROBBIE WILLIAMS 9.30pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

27

LUZ CASAL Part of the Suite Festival.

9pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.

NUDE: SINGER-SONGWRITERS Patch and Inspira perform in this cycle of inspirational solo musicians from folk through to pop and rock.

9pm. MEAM. Barra de Ferro 5.

THE OTHER SIDE “SHINE ON TOUR 2015” A Pink Floyd live experience 8pm. Razzmatazz. Almogàvers 122.

TRIBUTE TO TETE MONTOLIU An evening dedicated to Catalunya’s greatest jazz pianist, with music, anecdotes and film 7pm. Artte. Muntaner 83C. Free.

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POBLENOU OPEN DAY Exhibitions, workshops, food and fun as this creative barrio shows what it has to offer.

11am to 8pm www.poblenouurbandistrict. com

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BARCELONA MARATHON 8.30am. Avinguda de la Reina Maria Cristina.

SWING AT THE MNAC Join this free dance session with music by the Stradixies.

4pm-6pm. MNAC. Montjuïc.

PATUFET Puppet show of classic Catalan story. For children from age two.

Noon & 5pm. La Puntual. Allada Vermell 15.

COLLAGE WORKSHOP A creative activity for families.

Noon. MACBA. Pl. dels Angels 1.

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SWING AT SALA APOLO Dance with live music from the Barcelona Swing Orquestra.

7.30pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

TWO MARKET Vintage and second hand clothes and other novelties.

4pm-9pm. Rai Art Carders 12.

22

AN AFTERNOON WITH BUSTER KEATON. A selection of short films featuring the legendary comedian and actor.

La Filmoteca. Pl. Salvador Seguí 1 - 9. (also on 14th)

15

14

MOVISTAR SURFCITY FESTIVAL, The city’s first ever first festival dedicated to surf, with music, design, surfboards and art.

11am-9pm. Convent dels Angels and MACBA.

BARCELONA BEER FESTIVAL See page 24 Museu Maritim (Until 15th)

13

REVÓLVER The iconic Spanish rock band MECAL PRO makes its comeback.

The 17th edition of the International 9pm. Teatre Barts. Av. Parallel Short Film and Animation Festival 62. of Barcelona.

Various venues. (until April 19th). www.mecalbcn.org

BCNMP7 The seventh annual Music in Progress cycle explores contemporary popular music in Barcelona. With STA, The Slingshots and Griffi.

CCCB. Montalegre 5.

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24

BLUES JAM SESSION A host of musicians play an eclectic range of instruments.

10pm-1am. Harlem Jazz Club.

Comtessa de Sobradiel 8. (Every Tuesday).

I AM DIVE & DESILENCE DeProp Festival 2015. (see 6th) GRIGORY SOKOLOV 8pm. La Pedrera. Pg. de Gràcia 92. The Russian pianist plays works by Bach, Beethoven and Schubert.

8.30pm. Palau de la Música, Palau de la Música 4-6.

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IN STYLE

We headed to the Fashion Week to see what the city’s fashionistas are wearing.

Name: Jusef Age: 21 From: Barcelona Outfit: Zara, Umbro, Blanco and Bershka His style: Preppy

Name: Marc Florensa Age: 25 From: Barcelona Outfit: Nike, Zara, Massimo and vintage His style: Understated cool Name: Mar Guixá Age: 20 From: Barcelona Outfit: Vintage and Zara Her style: Timeless chic

Name: Marta Luna Age: 37 From: Spain Outfit: Valentino, Mango and Marant boots Her style: Elegant but edgy

GET THE LOOK

BAG

€25,95 Zara

COAT

Avinyó 12

Portal de l’Àngel, 7

€69,99 Mango

Cheap Monday

Pelai 58

ANKLE BOOTS

CARDIGAN €49,95

JACKET

€520

Pelai 58

www.net-a-porter.com

Pelai 58

Zara

Zara

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JEANS €50,00

€59,95

Isabel Marant

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YOU ARE what you eat BARCELONA HAS PLENTY OF COLOURFUL MARKETS AND A GREENGROCERS ON EVERY CORNER. BUT WHAT’S ORGANIC AND WHAT’S NOT?

BY ESTHER JONES. PHOTOS BY YAN PEKAR

T

he organic food industry is looking healthy indeed.

And it’s hardly surprising when a quick trip to the supermarket reveals not only that most food products are chemically enhanced for flavour, texture or a longer shelf life, but that there is often no clue as to where anything is actually from. The desire for health and transparency, along with a growing awareness of the effects of mass farming on the planet, have led the developed world to turn, in ever-growing numbers, to organic food. Those numbers speak for themselves. In 2012, the global organic food and drink market was worth $63 billion USD and, in the next eight years, it’s predicted to more than triple, reaching $211 billion USD by 2020.

The main difference between organic and non-organic food lies in the substances used during production. In order to certify as organic, certain methods, pesticides and other chemical substances are strictly limited. In the case of animals, this means that they must be raised on organic feed, without the use of antibiotics and growth-enhancing substances.

At first glance, Spain doesn’t seem to be an obvious heavyweight on the world’s organic scene. Although Barcelona is packed with fresh fruit and vegetable shops and is home to many wonderful markets, if you’re after organic (ecológico in Spanish) produce, you’ll have to make a little more effort. It may come as a surprise then to know that Spain is the biggest producer of organic food products in Europe and the sixth largest in the world.

The country’s rise as an organic producer has been meteoric. In just 13 years, from 2000 to 2013, the number of organic producers in Spain increased from 13,394 to 33,700, and land used for organic farming now occupies 1,610,129 hectares. Almost half of this land is dedicated to meat, followed by olives, cereals, dried fruits and wines. According to the Minister of Agriculture, Food and Environment (MAGRAMA), the total value of Spain’s organic market now stands at over €1 billion.

words, just €20 per person per year. And, although many studies indicate that the average Spaniard would happily eat more organic food, the reality is that it is both expensive and hard to find. According to research carried out by MAGRAMA, most local consumers are highincome earners, with an average age of 43.7.

With unemployment high and incomes low, it’s not surprising that many people just don’t have the budget to eat organically.

But what about all those lovely markets and

Local consumption of organic products represents less than two percent of general consumption or, in other words, just 20 euros per person per year.

Within Spain, Catalunya leads the way in organic farming. Although Andalusia has the most land dedicated to organic farming—over 50 percent of the total—Catalunya is home to 27.5 percent of the country’s producers.

According to the Department of Agriculture, between 2012 and 2013 the land in Catalunya dedicated to organic farming increased by 18.68 percent and the region’s annual turnover in 2013 was €152 million, an increase of 14 percent on the previous year.

Yet, despite Spain being one of Europe’s organic powerhouses, the domestic market is lackluster, and 75 percent of the country’s production is exported. Local consumption of organic products represents less than two percent of general consumption or, in other

fruit and veg shops? Well, unfortunately, very little of the produce sold in these establishments is organic. The majority of the produce will have been bought from Mercabarna, the vast wholesale food distribution centre located in the Zona Franca, which supplies fruit, vegetables and fish to shops and markets throughout Catalunya. What you buy is likely to be national at least, as nearly 70 percent of the produce comes from within Spain, including nine percent from Barcelona. However, it almost certainly won’t be pesticide-free. It may also not be as fresh as it looks. Modern cold storage facilities can maintain fruit and vegetables for up to three years.

One popular chain that doesn’t buy from Mercabarna and promotes eating locally

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grown food is Casa Ametller. Started by two brothers in 2001, the company has enjoyed rapid growth and now owns 56 shops in Catalunya. Their slogan is ‘del campo a la botiga’ (from the field to the shop), and their success reflects people’s growing desire to buy good quality, local produce. Products are either grown on Casa Ametller’s own land or sourced directly from local producers, who work according to the company’s production quality standards. The fruit and vegetables aren’t organic, but they do stock some pre-prepared organic products, such as vegetable burgers and tofu.

So how can you tell if your purchases are organic? All organic products should have the label to prove it. According to a study by the Spanish Federation of Companies with Organic Products (FEPECO), only one third of Spaniards recognise the label for organic products. It can get confusing: products can either carry the European label or the label of the local autonomous region. In 2009, and as a result of many companies taking advantage of the new-found desire for eco-produce, regulations were introduced by the European Court that prevent any non-organic products from being labelled with the word ‘bio’.

For eco-conscious locals there’s plenty to be optimistic about, however. And if you’re happy to make a little effort, you’ll find plenty of places to stock up on organics. Besides the main larger shops (see sidebox for details), the city is filled with small organisations making an effort to

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get the products to consumers. Temps de Terra have two shops in Barcelona, in Sant Gervasi and Sarrià, where the Franch family sell the produce grown on their farm in Amposta. Other new additions to the organic scene in the last couple of years include Feeld Organic on Av. Diagonal, which combines a shop, restaurant and takeaway service, and Obbio on Muntaner, an organic store, cafe and bookshop, which also hosts workshops and talks. Also on Muntaner, you can find I Love Food, an organic shop that opened in 2013 and only sells products from local farms.

Another option is to order a vegetable box and receive your produce fresh from the producers in the comfort of your own home. Several companies offer this service, such as Recapte and Doctor Veg. Once you’ve registered, you let them know your weekly preferences and look forward to receiving your box. If you like surprises, just leave the choice to them and you’ll find yourself discovering all sorts of new seasonal fruit and veg. A five kilogramme box of vegetables costs around €22.

Part of the reason that organic food comes with a heftier price tag is that it is simply more expensive to produce. Organic producers are often smallhold farms. Not only is organic farming more labour intensive, but these smallholdings are unable to benefit from economies of scale. Once the middle man is also factored in, it’s easy to see why it’s more expensive to buy organic.

SHOPS

VERITAS: www.veritas.es. Pg de Sant Joan 144, Còrsega 302, Gran Via de Carles III 55 BIOSPACE www.bioespacio.com. València 186 EL MANA www.ecomana.net. Valencia 432 FEELD ORGANIC www.feeldorganic.com.

Diagonal 449 OBBIO www.obbiofood.com. Muntaner 177 I LOVE FOOD www.ilovefood.es. Muntaner 476 TEMPS DE TERRA www.tempsdeterra.com.

Camp 51 WOKI www.wokimarket.com. Astúries 22, Ronda Universitat 20, Pg Marítim de la Barceloneta 1, Pg de Sant Joan 110.

RESTAURANTS

AMALTEA Diputació 164 EL RACO ECOLOGIC Bruc 86 FLAX KALE Tallers 74 B OHBO Dr. Fleming 15 WOKI (see above) GOVINDA Pl. Vila de Madrid 4-5

COOPERATIVES

EL CARRETÓ www.elcarreto.org GERMINAL www.coopgerminal.coop CYDONIA www.cydoniabcn.org LA FRESCA cooperativalafresca.blogspot.com.es

Not content to accept that eating organic food and taking care of the environment is only for the wealthy, Barcelona is home to a growing number of cooperatives that work to keep prices down and encourage ethical consumerism.

These are non-profit associations in which each member typically pays a one-off joining fee, then a weekly or monthly sum, in exchange for a box of fresh produce. The produce is bought directly from producers and farmers, ensuring fair prices for them, and fresh food and a good deal for the cooperative members. Cooperative members are usually expected to play an active role in the organisation, and work in a specific area, such as marketing, contacting producers, or gathering members’ produce orders. There is a cooperative in most areas of Barcelona and their rising popularity means that some have a waiting list.

Nationally, it seems the forecast is good for lovers of non-chemically enhanced food. In 2014, the government launched a strategic sixyear plan to further support organic farming.

The plan, which includes an annual investment of €150 million, aims to improve both commercialisation of exports and to increase the level of consumption within Spain. And while improvements may be slow to show in the marketplace, you can, for now, rely on grassroots organisations and small local companies to ensure that you’re not missing out on your organic five-a-day.

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how to...

CREATE AN URBAN ALLOTMENT CRAVING A BIT OF GREEN? WITH SPRING ON OUR DOORSTEP, IT’S TIME TO GET PLANTING.

I

n the dense cityscape of Barcelona, green space is sparse, and private gardens even sparser. The balcony can be the saving grace for many, offering a much-needed outdoor spot amidst the concrete jungle. It’s still no substitute for real green though...or is it? That bare balcony could soon be your own urban oasis—even the smallest of outdoor spaces can yield some edible treats with some clever and creative planting.

In recent years, a GIY (Grow-It-Yourself) movement has been on the rise across Europe and beyond, fuelled by concerns about chemicals used in food production, a growing trend for all things organic and the economic crisis. But it’s not only a matter of adding some organic veg to your meal repertoire, or reaping the rewards of your greenfinger investment. Introducing a living garden to your city balcony is good for the soul.

WHERE TO BUY SUPPLIES Tienda Mayolas.

Via Laietana 57.

L’Hort de casa meva.

Vidal i Guasch 49 bajos.

El meu hortet urbà.

València 121.

GET STARTED First, source a suitable container for your agricultural endeavours.

This can be anything from a regular plant pot or plastic bucket, to a two-tier trolley or a purpose-build raised bed. You could even get creative and restyle unwanted furniture or wooden pallets.

Volume will determine what plants you can cultivate. Small containers force roots to grow horizontally in a spiral formation in search of water and nutrients, and an imbalance above and below soil level will stunt growth, no matter how much you water. Small containers are also more susceptible to temperature fluctuations— wood or ceramic materials can help to alleviate this.

WHAT TO GROW AND WHEN J

ONION PEAS SPINACH CARROT LETTUCE ROCKET BASIL CHERRY TOMATOES CELERY LEEK BEETROOT RADISH PARSLEY LAMB’S LETTUCE BROAD BEANS GARLIC

F

M

SOW HARVEST A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

ALL YEAR

ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR

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Whatever shape and size you choose, ensure there is sufficient drainage by punching holes in the base of your container. If you are still concerned that drainage will not be sufficient, place clay pellets at the bottom of the container, which, in case of over watering or heavy rain, will absorb the excess. Your allotment should have at least four hours of direct sunlight per day. If your balcony doesn’t receive direct sunlight, try planting parsley, spinach and lettuce.

The balance of nutrients and minerals in the soil is another important consideration for your urban allotment. Typically, a mixture of soil and compost makes a good base; the exact combination will depend on the nutrients your plants require.

GET PLANTING If you’re from colder climates, bear in mind that the seasons here are a step ahead, and with the influence of our coastal location, mild winters and rare frost, a wide variety of vegetables can be cultivated, even during winter. Depending on the size of your balcony and containers, you can attempt almost anything, although starting small with something high-yield will increase your chances of a successful and satisfying harvest first-time round. For a small to medium-sized balcony with minimal investment, an ideal beginner’s selection could include cherry tomatoes (which can be tricky, but doable), lettuce, a chili pepper plant and a couple of herb boxes.

TIPS FROM METROPOLITAN’S OWN BALCONY GARDENERS ➣ Herb boxes are a good starting point, particularly for fresh herbs that are sometimes hard to find. Try a theme, such as herbs that go well with fish (dill, fennel, basil, curly-leaved parsley, lemon thyme) or chicken (sage, marjoram, thyme and tarragon). ➣ Water, water and more water—thou who giveth can taketh away and the sun is both the life source and nemesis of your budding specimens. That said, never water them during the hottest hours of the day—it should be first thing in the morning or after sunset to avoid burning. ➣ There’s no harm in buying a few seedlings to help get started, particularly if you are running a bit behind schedule. ➣ Increase the green factor and make use of your wall space by planting climbers, such as runner beans. ➣ The end of winter/beginning of spring is a good time to sow peas, which improve the quality of the soil and can be harvested after 60 days, leaving your nice fertile soil ready to support more demanding specimens. ➣ Remember, on the balcony it is important to keep things clean as well as green—dirty water dripping onto your neighbours washing will not make you very popular.

GET SOME ADVICE Classes and workshops are held in civic centres across the city, including Casa Elizalde, CC Font de la Guatlla, and Centro Cívico Vil·la Florida. Classes start in April. Tienda Mayolas also offers one-off courses, check elbalconverde.com for dates.

Huerto Ecológico en Barcelona. March 21st, 4 hours, 28. L’Hort de casa meva. Vidal i Guasch 49 bajos. www.horturba.com is an excellent online resource, which also lists diary dates for classes across the city.

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TRAVEL

LIFE IN A BUBBLE GET INTO SOME SERIOUS HOT WATER THIS MONTH WITH A VISIT TO ONE OF CATALUNYA’S SPA TOWNS. BY JAY COLLINS

CALDES D’ESTRAC

This pretty beach town lies 50 minutes north of Barcelona on the Maresme coast and was a fashionable spa town for the Barcelona bourgeoisie between the late 19th century and early 20th century. Evidence of its wealthy visitors and residents can be seen today in the elegant Modernista villas in the centre of the town and on the Pg. dels Anglesos promenade. Also known as Caldetes, Caldes d’Estrac is now a popular summer resort for its immaculate beaches within easy reach of Barcelona by train. The town’s thermal waters, which emerge from the source at 39 degrees, were first enjoyed by the Romans, who named the town Aquae Calidae and established the first baths in what is now the old part of town. The thermal baths that can be enjoyed today, the Balneari Caldetes, were built in the 19th century on the same site as the Roman baths and are the only publiclyowned thermal baths in Spain. Prices are reasonable—for €30 you can enjoy the pool, the thermal baths and the salt cave.

Besides the Balneari Caldetes, the beachfront Hotel Colón also has a 2000-square-metre thalassotherapy centre and spa, which uses both sea water and thermal water.

The town of Santa Coloma is built over an abundance of natural springs, which were discovered in around 1700 by farmers harvesting cáñamo (hemp) in the area. The Termes Orion spa was constructed 160 years later, using the 42-degree hot spring water for its ailing guests, most of whom came from Barcelona. The spa fell into disrepair during the Civil War, but was revamped and reopened in 1978. Elegant and classical, it stands peacefully in plentiful gardens with immaculate lawns. Although Termes Orion’s focus has historically been on thermal spring water treatments, the new demand for stress release has prompted many new relaxation treatments. For €55, you can enjoy a day at the spa, including lunch, the thermal pool and a massage.

Less than a kilometre from Termes Orion is Magma Spa. This new spa has a family focus, so you can take the kids along without worrying about disturbing anyone. There are multiple indoor and outdoor pools, fountains, jets and a designated pool for small children.

Both spas use the same thermal spring source, but Magma’s pools are treated, while Orion’s pool is not.

SANTA COLOMA

CALDES DE MALAVELLA

www.hotel-colon.net www.balnearicaldetes.cat

www.magma-cat.com www.termesorion.cat

www.balnearivichycatalan.com www.balneariprats.com

Located in La Selva, the small town of Caldes de Malavella is home to Vichy Catalan, the mineral water you either love or hate. The town has been known for its healing waters since Roman times and the spring here emerges at 60 degrees, enabling the water to absorb the chemical elements found in the subsoil. The Vichy Catalan group created a hotel-spa in a lovely 19th-century Modernista building, where you can soak up the elegant surroundings whilst immersing your body in pools that are a delicious 36-38 degrees.

There’s an impressive range of services on offer—specific treatment programmes can last from two to seven days. The stars of the show are, of course, those using the Vichy Catalan water, such as the pressure and massage showers.

Also built at the end of the 19th century is the Balneari Prats, a thermal centre set in an impressive neoclassical-style building. The spa has a wide range of treatments from mud therapy to bamboo massages and thermal baths with seaweed. The spa is also a hotel with comfortable, modern rooms, and they offer various weekend pampering packages to nurture body and soul.

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LA GARRIGA

Just 25 minutes from Barcelona by car or train, La Garriga has been famous for centuries for the properties of its thermal waters, traditionally used to treat medical conditions. The water is said to be high in silica and organic matter, giving it a distinctive, smooth sensation. La Garriga itself boasts some impressive architecture, and if you walk along the street that hugs the railway line, you can admire the Modernista mansions built by Barcelona’s wealthy elite over 100 years ago, who came in droves to take the waters. You can imagine yourself part of this elite by taking a trip to the beautiful Hotel Gran Balneario Blancafort, which opened in 1840. Its lovely manicured gardens and peaceful setting make it ideal for a relaxing, battery-recharging weekend.

A one-night stay, including access to the thermal centre and breakfast, costs from €125 per couple.

COLLSEROLA WALK #1 MUNDET TO SANT CUGAT Time: 3 hours, 20 minutes Level: Easy

www.balnearioblancafort.com

CALDES DE MONTBUI

Built around its thermal waters, Caldes de Montbui lies 30 kilometres from Barcelona in the Vallés region. It was Catalunya’s first thermal town and is home to the best preserved Roman baths in the peninsula. The spring waters emerge at over 74 degrees, placing them among the hottest in Europe. Visitors can stroll around the old town and see the hot spring sources.

The Balneario Broquetas dates from 1770, although it is now housed in an elegant Modernista building. They offer a number of different day packages, priced from €33. If you want to pamper yourself and make a weekend of it, stay in one of their recently refurbished rooms. www.hotelviladecaldes.com www.balnearibroquetas.com

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Explore the mountain on the city’s doorstep in our new series of walks in the Collserola.

This trail from Parc del Laberint (Mundet metro stop) to Sant Cugat is part of the GR 6 trail which crosses Collserola from south to north and, if you keep on walking, will take you all the way to Montserrat. It’s well signposted.

From the starting point in Mundet, the path abruptly rises through grassy meadows with low lying shrubs. As the trail begins to get steeper near the crests of Collserola, the vegetation starts to fill out into a forest of evergreen and deciduous trees, and the sounds of nature start to drown out the city’s traffic. This section of the trail provides spectacular panoramic views of Barcelona.

Upon reaching the crest, take a detour from the GR 6 along the GR 92 towards Torre Barro. After half a kilometre, you will be able to look down on an abandoned brick Modernista building, Can Masso. Set in the middle of the woods, the decrepit mansion looks like it comes straight out of a haunted house horror flick. Return to the GR 6, and as you walk in the direction of Sant Cugat, the vegetation changes into large oak trees and, eventually, mostly pine trees.

The trail also winds close to a couple of the park’s historical and architectural gems, Sant Adjutori and Sant Medir, both dating from the 12th century (to get to the Sant Medir shrine, follow the signs to a detour path and the church is only a couple hundred metres away). This Romanesque shrine has a simple single nave with a rectangular floor plan, a square apse, barrel vault and bell gables. Every year on March 3rd, according to a tradition dating back to the 16th century, people congregate at the shrine, take out the Sant Medir carved sculpture and bring it in a spectacular parade with decorated carriages, roses, horses, flags, sweets and costumes to Gràcia (see page 24). Near to Sant Adjutori, you’ll also come across Can Borrell, a masía that serves hearty fare and great calçots. Don’t forget to book first if you plan to stop for lunch.

Upon approaching the two shrines on the trail, the park’s vegetation changes once again. On this shaded side of the mountain range, the slope flattens out and the vegetation gradually transforms into a woodland environment with species of elm, water willow, and white poplar trees. The trip down to Sant Cugat offers equally beautiful panoramic views of the other side of Collserola.

As the path nears Sant Cugat, the forest eventually disappears and is replaced by an agricultural landscape. After a few hours of hiking in the wilderness, the rural landscape and the suburban environs of Sant Cugat provide a pleasant stopping point before returning to Barcelona by train.

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REVIEW MORE INFO.

Disfrutar

Villarroel 163, Hospital Clínic. Tel. 93 348 68 96. en.disfrutarbarcelona.com. Open Tues-Sat 1pm-3pm, 8pm-10pm. Disfrutar menu €68, Festival menu €98 including IVA (not including drinks). ✪✪✪✪✪

THE EL BULLI ALUMNI STRIKE AGAIN WITH A TASTING MENU TO REMEMBER. BY TARA STEVENS. PHOTOS BY YAN PEKAR

S

trolling up Villarroel, you could be forgiven for missing Disfrutar. It’s a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it kind of place, but keep your eyes peeled because this is likely to be the most exciting meal you’ll eat

this year.

The interior, by the brilliant Equipo Creativo, at first made me think of a modern-day Western saloon with a long, sage green bar at the entry and tiled stalls enclosing a small dining area. Keep going though, and you come to a large open-plan kitchen, effervescent with brilliant chefs doing their thing. Eventually you’ll reach a cavernous, glazed dining room, with two-storey high ceilings, an elaborate feature wall and curiously comfortable cut-out

dining chairs in subtle shades of chalk, mustard and olive. And beyond that again, there’s a decked terrace with retractable shades and vertical gardens creeping their way towards the sun. It’s quite the tardis, but I was here as a fan of the chefs—Mateu Casañas, Oriol Castro and Eduard Xatruch—who opened the much-lauded Compartir in Cadaqués in

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✪ NOT WORTH THE TRIP

April 2012. Alumni of El Bulli with a sterling reputation to boot, the boys are now shuttling between the two ventures, ensuring that there’s always at least one of them present. And frankly, wow, what a show.

We began with a cheek puckering passion fruit granita, spiked with rum and topped with coffee beans, freshly ground from a pepper mill, that sent streaks of acidity scuppering wildly across the tastebuds. Then, a light-as-air beetroot puff, as delicate as the finest crystal, served sunken in an elegant glass bowl of black sesame seeds. You swirl the seeds and the puffs

kimchee mayonnaise and crammed into an apple-flavoured meringue—is dreamy.

By now, my pal and I were staring goggleeyed at each other proclaiming it a marvel.

Had it stopped then, it still would have felt like a bargain, but we were only half way through.

The rice taco with tomato, Parmesan and basil, was deceptive in its simplicity, punchy and refreshing, it primed us for more. Turns out that mackerel with porcini and cauliflower couscous is a match made in heaven. Who knew? And Disfrutar’s version of macarrones a la carbonara—translucent tubes turned opaque in

If the art of seduction could be boiled down to a tasting menu, this would surely be it. rise up magically like hot pink truffles. Oh yes, I thought, smacking my lips as the puffs exploded into smithereens, this is going to be fun.

Next came a little quartet of snacks: sweet, pea-sized nuggets of hazelnut and elderberry; magnificently sticky, yet with the texture of dust, polverones of tomato with arbequina ‘caviar’; delicate transparent ravioli stuffed with the individual components of pesto (basil leaves and pinenuts) dipped in a serum of Parmesan; and the prettiest spherico olives I’ve ever seen, one green and grassy, the other black and dusky with bitter orange.

A frozen Idiazábal biscuit arrived shortly after, with a delicate apple and celery jus prepping the palette for a tempura egg yolk, which sat astride a shell filled with a mushroomytruffly gelee. OMG! Seriously, I nearly cried.

It was one of those died-and-gone-to-heaven moments. And their riff on the classic American lobster roll—crab tasting lushly of ocean that’s been tumbled with a little homemade ✪✪ COULD IMPROVE

✪✪✪ GOOD

a foam of eggs and bacon, literally ‘cooked’ at the table—becomes an extraordinarily soothing, yet light, comfort food. Mussels and peas were a plump and yielding amalgamation of sea and garden, whilst the navajas blanketed in a smooth truffle and foie cream, served with a salad of crunchy oyster leaves and topped with a lemony foam, was the best use of foie I’ve ever seen.

A ‘mandarin’ stuffed into a mandarin with rose-infused jelly at the bottom, and a thimblesized cheesecake topped with cherry ice-cream and served in a raspberry cone, made a refreshing finish, but the best was yet to come. Two perfect chocolate chillies—one green (with mint), one red (with chilli)—garnished with olive oil and sea salt, as all good meriendas should be. By now it was nearly 5pm. We’d been there for four hours, and as I said my thank yous and goodbyes, I admit, I shed a tear or two. If the art of seduction could be boiled down to a tasting menu, this would surely be it.

✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD

✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED

2/25/15 5:54 PM

RECIPE: SALTED COD WITH SAMFAINA SAUCE

Lent in Catalunya is associated with dried and salted cod and is often represented by an old woman with seven legs (symbolising the seven weeks) with a cod in hand. As meat was historically forbidden by the church throughout Lent, cod became the typical dish for this period.

The Catalan expression ‘tallar el bacallà’ (cut the cod) has its origins in ancient monasteries. During Lent, the prior was in charge of cutting the portions and deciding the sizes. So when someone has authority or power of decision, they are said to ‘cut the cod’.

Preparation time: 1 hour Serves: 4 INGREDIENTS For the samfaina sauce: 1 green pepper 1 red pepper 2 medium onions 6 tomatoes 2 aubergines 1 courgette Ground pepper For the cod: 4 cod fillets Flour Oil and salt METHOD • Flour the cod fillets.

• Heat a little oil in a frying pan and fry the cod for two minutes on each side. Set cod aside and soak up any excess oil with kitchen paper.

• Cut the aubergine into cubes and put them in the same pan used to fry the cod. Let it cook for five minutes and set aside.

• Next, fry the onions and leave them to simmer for 10 minutes.

• Add the peppers and courgettes, cut into small cubes. Keep on the heat for about 20 minutes.

• Stir in the grated tomatoes and season to taste. Cover the pan and let it cook for five minutes.

• Add the aubergine, stir the mixture and keep on the heat for five more minutes.

• Add the cod fillets and cover. Turn off the heat after two minutes.

CHEF’S TIPS To desalinate a cod fillet, first clean it under running water to remove the outermost layer of salt. Place in a recipient filled with enough water so the cod is completely covered. Depending on the thickness of the cod, leave it in the refrigerator for one to three days and change the water every 12 hours.

To complete the dish, serve with a boiled egg cut into halves.

Visit www.ambdosfogons.com for more traditional Catalan recipes

by Toni Rocamora.

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QUICK BITES

LAM

AN AUTHENTIC TASTE OF THAILAND ON GRAN VIA.

BY TARA STEVENS.

M

y hope after writing this column is that LAM will be rammed because there aren’t many Thai places in this town that come up to this exacting standard.

The one place that springs to mind is its bigger sister, Bangkok Café (reviewed back in August 2011) up in Les Corts. This venue is rather less charming—generally I find most restaurants located on Gran Via a bit of a turn off—but its brightly lit interior belies the spicy comfort food within, served in portions that could see off the meanest of hangovers. A short menu means that if you go in a group of two or three, you can order almost everything and share it: dishes like korat, chicken meatballs with mint, lemongrass and chilli; Thai bocadillos with spicy Chiang Mai sausages, red curry paste, lime leaves and turmeric; and home-made Mu Tom Yum—a refreshing, tongue-tingling broth, filled with rice noodles, crunchy wontons, pork balls and lavish handfuls of fresh herbs and chillies, that makes you feel all is right with the world.

The chalkboard specials are really the way to go, but the three-course lunch menu isn’t half bad either. Especially if you’re fond of treats, like crispy fried Vietnamese rolls with a sensational peanut coriander dipping sauce (I kid you not, you could eat it by the bucketful), and plump, vegetable-stuffed empanadas (made with chickpea flour) with rice wine and chilli.

Mains were hale and hearty, a solidly mellow and mild yellow beef and potato curry, and the Pad Thai was tasty, though I prefer it with rice stick as opposed to the thin vermicelli sort, and I didn’t really understand the streaks of balsamic reduction zigzagging across nearly every plate. But these are just minor gripes—if you’re out and about and need to feed a spice itch, LAM nails it.

tastings

WINES FROM A STONE

La Vinyeta is a well-known winery from Empordà, run by husband and wife team, Josep Serra (who is originally from the region) and Marta Pedra.

Like Josep, Marta is also a trained oenologist and she brought out her own line of wines called Vins de Pedra a couple of years ago. Literally meaning ‘wines from stone’, it was a play on her father’s family name, as these wines were borne of her home region in Conca de Barberà.

At a breezy altitude of 200 metres, Marta’s family has vineyards aged between 30 and 40 years, which they had been selling off to other wineries for years. She made the decision to create her own wines from them and initially released a 100 percent Chardonnay white called L’Orni, and a

MORE INFO. Gran Via 518, Tel. 93 252 7990. Open Mon-Sat 8am-5pm.

Lunch menu + beer €11.50.

Miquel Hudin is originally from California but is now based in Barcelona. He founded the Vinologue enotourism series of wine books (www.vinologue.com).

Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend called La Musa in 2012.

The wines were easy to spot as they featured the artwork of Marta’s uncle wrapped around the bottles, which are designed by Josep’s brother, Lluis.

She has since expanded her repertoire to include a 100 percent Trepat wine—a stubborn grape, local to the Conca de Barberà region, that has gained attention recently as people try to work it into red wines. This was an interesting re-tasting to see the evolution of Marta’s wine, as her work goes from strength to strength with each vintage.

ferric, as is typical of Trepat. Perky with a crisp body although not abound in depth. Easy to drink with bundles of acidity for great food pairing. €12 La Musa 2012 Dark fruits with notes of plums, figs, and lactic. Good acidity and smooth in the mouth, relatively fresh, with good aging notes and a persistent finish. €12

Trempat 2013 Mature strawberries, rustic, menthol, and a touch

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main pages Sept 2014.indd 1

9/24/14 1:57:41 PM

FOOD DRINK

&

For more in food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking

IN

€ under 20 | €€ 20-30 | €€€ 30-40 | €€€€ over 40 Bar

NEFW &D

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS.

Japanese BELCHICA 4EIXAMPLE

YOI YOI GION 4EIXAMPLE

Barcelona´s Belgian beer experience, serving up to 70 ales, lagers, fruity beers and other specials like gueuzes from the beer country for locals, students and expats. Multilingual staff, regular art exhibitions, live music and hip events complete the perfect Belgian bar experience. Also sports on SKY, Belgian German and Dutch tv.

Free Wi-Fi and outdoor terrace, private parties possible: ask for conditions and offers at the bar.

PINT OF STELLA €3

Barcelona’s latest and greatest Japanese restaurant, YOI YOI GION, is a completely authentic udon restaurant from Japan’s ancient capital, Kyoto. YOI YOI GION offers delicious handmade, organic noodles in a modern Japanese atmosphere. Dine at very reasonable prices and enjoy ingredients such as kelp, niboshi (small, dried sardines) and katsuobushi (dried, shaved bonito), which are combined for the stock of the noodles, with no chemical additives.

Diagonal 383 | Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 124 8701 | www.facebook.com/yoiyoigionudon Tues-Sat 1.30pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm. Closed Sun & Mon

Villarroel 60, 08011 | Metro Urgell, salida Villarroel Tel. 625 814 001 | belchica@gmail.com

Argentine BIERFEST TAVERN4SAGRADA FAMILIA

9REINAS 4EIXAMPLE

This cosy traditional pub has a fantastic range of draft and bottled beers as well as a wide selection of G&Ts. They have large TVs and it’s the perfect place to watch the match with friends. If you study at the UAB join them on Facebook for more info on their regular language intercambio nights.

Argentine restaurant Nueve Reinas has quickly become a favourite for discerning meat-eaters. Renowned for its excellent quality and value, 9Reinas specialises in meats from all over the world. The exquisite Argentina-inspired decoration offers an intimate and welcoming space where every visitor feels like a guest. The restaurant has two floors and a private room that can host parties of up to nine people.

Gaudí 81 | Metro Guinardó, Sagrada Familia Tel. 99 348 0157 | www.bierfest.es | www.facebook.com/bierfest-barcelona

Bakery NATA LISBOA4EIXAMPLE Heir to one of the most delicious confectionary recipes in the world that spans two centuries, NATA was born to produce and spread the most deliciously sweet tastes from Lisbon to the four corners of the world. Pay them a visit to try their portuguese specialities and their sublime coffee blend.

Valencia 267 | Tel. 93 272 4766 www.nuevereinas.com/en

Mallora 277 I natalisboa.com www.facebook.com/NATALisboaESPANA

Bistronomia BE MY BAGEL 4GRÀCIA Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them.

They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed.

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm

FULLA D’OSTRA 4 EIXAMPLE Bistronomia Fulla d’Ostra is a restaurant neighbouring the Mercat Galvany.

Our Chilean chef, Marcelo Gonzalez, prepares delicious gourmet dishes made with fresh products. The exclusive decorator, Lazaro Rosa Violan, has transformed this small bistro into a charming place, and with the capacity for just eighteen guests, it is both intimate and romantic.

Amigó 39, 08021 Tel. 93 200 8393 hola@fulladotra.com www.fulladostra.com

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Ice Cream MANNA GELATS 4 BARRI GÒTIC

JAMÓN EXPERIENCE 4 BARRI GÒTIC Come and discover everything you’ve ever wanted to know about jamón ibérico. Enjoy an engaging interactive experience with an audiovisual tour in 8 languages that culminates with a tasting of 6 different kinds of jamones (reserve, ibérico, Guijuelo, Extremadura, Valle de los Pedroches and Huelva) hand cut by a master slicer and paired with a glass of cava, wine or beer. A unique experience you’ll treasure forever!

Opens every day from 11.30am to 8pm.

Homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico.

Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the best products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with market-bought products, boasting exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalized attention.

EADERS. Rambla de les Flors 88-94 (in front of Mercat Boquería) Tel. 93 002 8474 www.jamonexperience.com

Ban ys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312

Indian / Tandoori MALGAM 4 EIXAMPLE

SURYA 4EIXAMPLE Surya Barcelona is an Indian restaurant that invites you to travel all the way to the streets of Mumbai, rich with colour, smell and exotic flavors. They offer a cosy and relaxed place where you feel at home, where you can drink, read a magazine, connect to the Internet, work and try out some of their delicious dishes.

After dinner you can relax with cocktails and enjoy their in-house DJs for their Friday night House Party and Saturday nights Funky New Disco!

Malgam is located in one of the busiest areas of Barcelona, and offers a varied selection of food, from signature tapas, to traditional, Mediterranean-inspired dishes, all made using seasonal produce. The contemporary-style restaurant is divided into three different spaces, adapting to the different needs that result from its long business hours, covering early breakfasts, lunch, a la carte dinners, and a cocktail bar with a DJ on weekends.

Pau Claris 92 | Tel. 93 667 8760 www.suryabarcelona.com

Aribau 113, 08036 Tel. 93 452 3673 Every day 8am-3pm

N

I

Mediterranean 100 MONTADITOS4 POBLENOU

FONDA ESPAÑA4 BARRI GÒTIC

If you’re looking for a restaurant in Barcelona with a huge variety of cheap tapas and outdoor terrace, Cervecería 100 Montaditos is the place to go. It’s located in the Rambla del Poblenou, one of the Barcelona’s most characteristic neighbourhoods.

There are 5 HD TVs with audio all around the bar making this the perfect venue for international football evenings with friends. Choose from tapas and pinchos and a “jarra de cerveza” at just 1.50.

And don’t miss their excellent promotions.

Monday is ‘half euro’ day with montaditos at 50c. On Wednesdays and Sundays enjoy Euromania and pick anything on the menu for 1.

Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room that was originally designed and decorated

by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements. Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that is a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins.

Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat, from 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun, from 1pm-4pm, Closed Sun evening.

Rambla del Poblenou 76, 08005 Tel. 93 624 2910 I www.100montaditos.co

FREE CHIPS Vegetarian/Vegan LOIDI RESTAURANT4 EIXAMPLE Loidi is a contemporary bistro, in which Martin Berasategui makes his cuisine accessible to everybody.

Cuisine prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients and presented with imagination that recalls and pays homage to the celebrated Basque chef’s traditional roots and origins. The menu features various dining options with dishes that change on a weekly basis.

The restaurant is a very contemporary, warm and comfortable space frequented by a local and professional clientele.

Head chef: Jordi Asensio. Maitre d’: Oscar Fernández.

Mallorca 248-250, 08008 Tel. 93 492 9292 Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm, 8pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-3.30pm, Closed Sun evening.

AMALTEA4EIXAMPLE

Visit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant, where a warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Menu of the day 10.70, night and weekend menu 15.50. | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | www.restauranteamaltea.com Diputació 164 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm, Closed Sun

GOVINDA (VEGETARIAN) 4BARRI GÒTIC

Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation in vegetarian Indian cuisine.

The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, nonalcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus.

Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 www.govinda.es | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm

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HEALTH

Enric Pintado - DENTIST

&beauty DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

Implants & teeth in one day

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

Balmes, 295, 1º 2ª, 08006 T. 93 200 0808 recepciobcn@enricpintado.com www.enricpintado.com

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

AFTER

Dr. Enric Pintado is a specialist in implant surgery and fixed prosthetics, trained by the Universities of New York, NY and Loma Linda, California.

At Dr. Pintado’s dental surgery, the treatment is personalised especially for you. All-on-4 procedures, flapless surgeries, zygomatic implants for low quantity of bone, without bone grafting and healing time.

In all of these procedures, teeth are placed in the same day.

Just everything, just Pintado!

Dr. Enric Pintado, DDS

ICLINIC - DENTIST

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

Perfect teeth in just one day. At iClinic Pifarre. No unnecessary damaging teeth.

No killing nerves.

No anesthesia and all in one session.

Cosmetic dentistry and composite veneers give our clients the lovely smile they always dreamed of. iClinic works only with specialists in cosmetic dentistry who have been trained in the most up to date and cutting edge techniques.

New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, a team consisting of their first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 35 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

Muntaner 66, 08011 T. 93 451 8325 Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm, 4pm-8pm www.iclinicpifarre.com www.somostusdentistas.com

NEW ADDRESS Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Metro: L-5 Salida Rocafort/Rosselló Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

Dr. Boj - DENTIST Dr. Boj and his team provide specialised, comprehensive pediatric dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens.

Dr. Boj also lectures about all treatments related to these age groups, including laser dentistry. He became a specialist at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of Rochester, N.Y., USA. Fast and friendly service in an international environment where we speak English.

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

Orthoestetic - DENTIST The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their dentists experience allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients.

Dr. Holguin is a specialist in orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults, and dental aesthetics. She is certified by the Invisalign system.

Platinum Provider

42-44 Health MAR2015.indd 44

Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 Metro: Verdaguer (L4 ,L5) www.orthoestetic.es www.ortoesteticbcn.es info@orthoestetic.es

Abaden Dental Group - DENTIST Advanced Dentistry in Barcelona.

Methodology: A primary distinctive at Abaden is the high value we place on group clinical consultation. During our 28 years of business our dentists across all specialities meet together regularly to collaborate and review patient cases. This group’s clinical case consultation system is a proven method that guarantees accurate patient diagnostics and higher quality service.

Procedures: Implantology (single, multiple or full teeth recovery), aesthetics, orthodontics and general dentistry Languages: English, Russian, French and Portuguese.

Abaden Diagonal - Agustina Saragossa 9-11 (08017) Abaden Sants - Marques de Sentmenat 82 (08029) Abaden Vall d’Hebron - Arenys 89-93 (08035) T. 90 064 9162 (Toll-Free for national calls) Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat 10am-7pm www.dentistsbarcelona.com

2/25/15 5:43 PM

NEST - NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Doctor for Adults

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults.

A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Also a member of IAMAT.

NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

www.barcelonaNEST.com

Jonathan Lane Hooker -

Doctors Barcelona - DOCTOR Is the top medical group in Barcelona.

They are committed to provide a first-rate level of care and attention.

They are experienced, trained and equipped to diagnose and treat most acute or chronic medical problems and injuries. Available 24 hours including weekends and holidays. A 30 minutes arrival time to your destination is guaranteed. Their convenient visit fee is refundable by most insurance companies. All Specialists and best Hospitals available.

T. 689 327 144 info@doctorsbarcelona.com www.doctorsbarcelona.com

FREE CONSULTATION

NEW CITY CENTRE OFFICE

BEFORE

Panizo Institute CRANIOSACRAL OSTEOPATHY Osteopathy treats the body, mind and emotions as one. By working with the osteopath you can treat the more commonly known ailments of low back and neck pain, but also treat headaches, migraine, digestive problems and stress relief.

Av. Diagonal 343, 2º 3ª Metro: Verdaguer (L5) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

42-44 Health MAR2015.indd 45

Yogashala BCN - YOGA Yogashala BCN in downtown Barcelona is ideal for those who want to practise yoga in a cool, relaxed space. Here you can take a break from daily life to reconnect, breathe, and devote time to your own personal pursuit of happiness. Whether you want to get started or want to deepen your practice, Yogashala can help you on the path you choose.

T. 93 518 2627 Girona 38, ppal 2 info@yogashalabcn.com www.yogashalabcn.com

T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST The pharmacy is open 365 days a year + home delivery service.The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need.

They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics.

Av. Diagonal 478, T. 93 416 1270 www.farmaciaserra.com Open 9am - 10pm

Hestía International Psychotherapy Centre has become a reference in the city, due to its’ high quality multidisciplinary and multilingual profile.Their professional team works with individuals, couples and families through a variety of services and approaches to therapy and personal development. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, Russian and Catalan.

The first consultation is free.

€15 OFF

PSYCHOTHERAPIST Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life.

An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people.

Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.

Hestia - PSYCHOTHERAPY

Therapies Adam - THERAPIST Do you have neck and back pain? Do you suffer from stress? Do you have trouble sleeping? Do you have regular headaches and jaw tension? Are you looking for the right path in your life? We offer different therapies: Craniosacral, Energy Spine Healing, Jatismaran-Regression ® and Stress Relief therapy.

Plaça Dr. Letamendi 3/4, Passeig de Gràcia M. 689 786 519 www.terapias-adam.com

The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, German, Italian and Greek.

For detailed information, please visit their website.

Plaça Dr. Letamendi 3/4, Passeig de Gràcia M. 689 786 519 www.craneosacral-panizo.com

€15 OFF

Tania Spearman - ACUPUNCTURE Make acupuncture your first choice, not your last resort! Acupuncture treats many conditions from pain, stress and depression to infertility and more. English, Spanish and German spoken. Call now to make an appointment and start feeling better.

Enric Granados 133, 4-1 bis M. 644 322 161 info@taniaspearman.com www.taniaspearman.com

English Doctor Dr. Steven Joseph - Doctor General Practice Mental Health MB, MRCGP, MRCPsych.

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR Established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care with access to all medical specialties and tests.

Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro Les Corts Mon-Sat M. 662 291 191 www.englishdoctorbarcelona.com

2/25/15 5:43 PM

Centro Quiropráctico Vida

Pilates Las Ramblas

- CHIROPRACTOR

- PILATES

Daryn J.Wiese is an American trained and board certified chiropractor that directs one of the most well known practices in Barcelona-Vida Centro Quiropractico. The practice known for its quality service with a friendly and professional environment having a very high user-satisfaction rate.

The care is specific, effective, and comfortable as it shows with practice members ranging from 15 days to 96 years of age.

Doina Taylor is a UK trained and qualified physiotherapist specialising in therapeutic and wellness Pilates.

She treats musculoskeletal problems, such as back, neck, shoulder, or hip pain, and she teaches people to maintain or increase their strength and flexibility in order to feel their best and prevent injury. Most recently she has trained as a Nordic Walking teacher, which enables her to take Pilates outdoors and adds a cardiovascular element to her repertoire.

Diputació 168 Tda. 2, 08011 Metro: Urgell (L1) Bus 14, 20, 37, 59 T. 93 451 5301 quiropracticavida@gmail.com www.quiropracticavida.com

Heaven - MASSAGE

M. 610 712 947 doina@pilateslasramblas.com www.pilateslasramblas.com

10% OFF

The Vital Touch - MASSAGE

American-trained massage therapist Carrie Lewis has 15 years of experience soothing and releasing both muscular and emotional pain and tension. Her focus is deep-tissue massage, which she combines with reflexology, reiki, and other techniques. She also specialises in pregnancy and postpartum massage.

This excellent vocational massage therapist with years of training and experience will make a difference in your personal wellbeing. Chair massage for events and home visits available.15 minute reflexology treatment with personally blended organic products.

The Vital Touch Massage clinic helps you relax, energise, re-balance and improve your health and lifestyle with a therapeutic, holistic full-body massage.

- Helps relieve tension, reduce stress, detoxify your body and boost your self-esteem.

- We also visit offices and events around Barcelona helping stressed executives to relax and re-energise in their working day.

M. 639 53 35 23 carrielewisbcn@gmail.com facebook.com/heavenbarcelona

M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com

La Hair Boutique HAIRDRESSER Trained by Toni & Guy London, Veronique runs a friendly salon with a dedicated team who speak English, Spanish, French and Swedish.

La Hair Boutique is a relaxed and cosy salon that offers progressive cuts and colours with great style advice too. They are especially talented at creating new, personalised looks using the latest techniques.

Find everything you need here!

Plaça Regomir 5 Metro: Jaume 1 (L4). T. 93 269 1937 M. 699 643 462 www.hairboutiquebarcelona.com

HAIR CUT €19 + HOT SHAVE €30

BCN Cuts - BARBER SHOP Directly from Boston to Gràcia comes BCN Cuts Barber Shop to offer you time to relax surrounded in a welcoming environment. With a drink in hand and jazz music playing in the background, you can have a hair cut or try their hot lather shave the classic way. BCN Cuts is a traditional barber shop with a contemporary atmosphere. You will keep coming back for the excellent service.

Gran de Gràcia 223 T. 93 611 1813 bcncuts@gmail.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

42-44 Health MAR2015.indd 46

2/25/15 5:44 PM

BUSINESS SERVICES DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

FREE CONSULTATION

LEGAL SERVICES

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

INTEGRA ADVISERS - CONSULTANT Legal and business consulting firm that promotes entrepreneurial activity in Spain. Services include; Accounting, tax, financial advice, immigration, national insurance registration and payroll, legal and real estate advice.

Aribau 207, Ppal A1, 08021 T. 93 414 6242 M. 615 405 045 info@integra-advisers.com www.integra-advisers.com Tessal - LEGAL SERVICES This Legal and business consulting firm offers the value-added services and resources you need to set up and develop your business. Assistance in each stage of legal paperwork and permit procedures, accounting, tax and labour obligations, e-commerce and data protection services to complete the running of your business in Spain.

Perú 40-44, Esc. 2 2º A, 08018, T. 93 486 9451 info@tessal.com www.tessal.com

Fletcher Consultancy Ltd -

Sánchez Molina -

CONSULTANCY

LEGAL PRACTICE

Fletcher Consultancy Ltd. now operates in Spain providing tailored training and development services for managers and employees, development and access to UK qualifications for ex-pats, HR services for development of competence based systems. Our UK business services blue chip clients in both public and private sectors. We have special offers for new clients, including free mystery shopping and training needs analysis.

The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French.

They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

shirleydirect@aol.com M. +44 799 053 4331 www.fletcherconsultancy.co.uk www.nvqenespana.com

Barcelona Women’s Network - BUSINESS

Supported charities 2014 - 2016

• Barcelona’s premier network for international women • Over 200 members from 30+ countries.

• As a social club that supports local charities and offers a business network, activities include social gatherings, cultural outings, volunteer opportunities, and business seminars.

We help women thrive and feel at home in Barcelona.

Book and Bake Sale 18th April 2015 10am-6pm Casa Orlandai Proceeds to charity. membership@bcnwomensnetwork.com

20% DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS GES40 - ENGLISH SPEAKING LAWYERS They are a law firm established in 1986. They aim to provide comprehensive legal counselling to both individuals and companies, in all areas of law. As a team they are highly specialized in a number of different legal areas, with high levels of training, experience and professional strength. They offer a fully personalised service, providing rapid, effective responses without compromising the quality of their service. They also offer their clients a 24-hour online consultation service.

Through this online follow-up service, interested parties can access their virtual office to consult the information in their files anytime and from anywhere.

“We devote our efforts to provide full support and assistance to conduct any personal or business activity in Spain with confidence”.

Calàbria 267, 3r 1a, 08029, T. 93 217 6414, ges40assessors@ges40.com mruiz@ges40.com www.ges40.com,

45-48 Business mar2015.indd 43

president@bcnwomensnetwork.com www.bcnwomensnetwork.com

Mac in Barcelona COMPUTERS Stéphane Clément is an Apple technician and consultant with over fifteen years of experience.

Anna Piqué, a native from Barcelona, assists Stéphane with her business and communication background.

Their focus is on providing good service and installations with clear communicative skills and personal advice. The aim is to solve your computer troubles and teach you how to improve your daily use of your Mac and its various accessories, giving you an opportunity for a more pleasant and safer computer experience.

Cami de Mas Roig a Mas Fuster 47 Valldoreix, 08197, M. 608 994 599 info@macinbarcelona.com www.macinbarcelona.com

2/25/15 5:47 PM

Mrs.Q design studio -

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS

GRAPHIC DESIGN

BRANDING PACKAGES ·POSTER & FLYER design BROCHURES wedding stationery

BOOK NOW FOR A FREE DEMO

Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services.Contact Mrs.Q for their competitive business packages which includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as flyers, posters and brochures. They specialises in bespoke invitations.

Visit their Etsy page to see examples for their work www.etsy.com/shop/ MrsQdesignstudio. Designed with love! 10% off now!

George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years.

Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

Easi-Sat - TELEVISION SERVICE

Gusto Films - FILM

Specialists in satellite TV, HD, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reliability throughout Catalunya for many years. Their professional team provides satellite television from across Europe, including Dutch, French, Italian and Russian, at unbeatable prices. They have solutions for loss of UK channels, with or without a dish. New IPTV is the solution to viewing UK freesat channels, BBC’s, ITV’s, Al Jazeera sports 1-10, and many more. Follow them on Facebook/Easisat and Twitter ‘@ PaulDuval15’.

Gustofilms is a production company specialising in promotional film. We dedicate ourselves to the creation and making of high-quality audiovisual content. We like to innovate, discover and imagine. We love style, down to the smallest detail.

Nos gusta gustar.

T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 enquiries@easisat.net www.easisat.net

Corsa - DRIVING SCHOOL

Sant Quinti 47, 4º5ª, 08041 T. 93 007 4408 M. 636 611 029 info@gustofilms.es www.gustofilms.es

STOP N’ DRIVE DRIVING SCHOOL

Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn everything you need to know about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

Ask for the special Metropolitan reader offers

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324 www.corsa.cat/en/courses www.facebook.es/autoescuelacorsa

Bejar 67, 08014 (Between plaza España and Sants Estació) www.aestopndrive.com

BCN WINDOWS -

ARC97SL - OFFICE AND HOME IMPROVEMENTS

HOME IMPROVEMENTS Do you have a cold or noisy flat? High heating bills? Then BCN Windows can help! They can double glaze your traditional wooden windows and doors without changing the way they look. Their unique system offers noise reduction, energy saving comfort and is environmentally friendly. Visit their website for more information; it even shows you how to price your own windows. Call Michael on 619 908 642 and quote ‘Metropolitan’ for a free consultation..

M. 619 908 642 www.bcnwindows.es

45-48 Business mar2015.indd 44

Stop by their driving school to learn about how you can get your Spanish (European) driving license in English and from home! Don’t let time be your excuse. Stop N’ Drive is the first driving school in Barcelona that instructs you through online videos and offers intensive courses lasting only two weeks, between 7.30pm to 10pm.

STOP N’ DRIVE Driving school courses are low-cost, so don’t hesitate to get in touch with them and start your journey.

Become a driver in Barcelona!

Do you want to build or renovate your office or flat? ARC97 specialise in the design and construction of new works and renovations. They are committed from beginning to end and take care of every detail of each project. They will tailor any project according to your specific needs, style, taste and interests.

They guarantee that all work will be completed on time and within budget.

Media and Marketing Assistant Jo Elizabeth Hardman M. 610 544 614 Pietat 8 baixos, 08002 arc97@arc97.com www.arc97.com

2/25/15 5:47 PM

10% DISCOUNT

BERLITZ - SCHOOL At Berlitz language school they have a teacher available for you whether you take face-to-face classes or through their virtual classroom with a huge range of courses available for English, French, German, Russian and Spanish. Their amazing online platform has more than 218 specialties which can be adapted to fit your needs. Their one-day business workshops can also add the finishing touch to your professional language needs. 10% discount with this advert.

Av. Diagonal 382, 08037 Tel. 93 215 0100 barcelona1@berlitz.es www.berlitz.es Mon-Fri 8am-09.30pm

Coral - SPANISH TEACHER Reach a Spanish level that best fits your time, interests and needs!

Try Coral’s personalised courses using interesting and effective methods that make learning easy. She will come to your home or business and provide the material. All levels; private or small groups (up to 3). 60-min class €25; 90-min class €35. If you need classes via SKYPE, she can also offer online lessons. She is a native, experienced and highly-qualified teacher.

M. 676 249 744 coral@coralprada.com

La Luna Shipping LOGISTICS We offer a complete service to efficiently manage any kind of transport. Anywhere in the world, from a overnight courier service, to an airfreight or seafreight shipment to the other side of the world. We are specialist managing personal effects shipments, small “boxed” removals from Barcelona to Europe, UK, USA, Australia, New Zealand. Don’t look further, LA LUNA shipping is your one stop shop for your transport and logistics needs in Barcelona.

T. 93 220 1715 info@laluna.coop www.laluna.coop facebook.com/ somos.lalunashipping

BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from 4 - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday.

The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience.

They also offer specialised summer programs, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.

Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

BCN Seguros - INSURANCE Local Barcelona Insurance Agency providing complete personal and business insurance services. (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.) We offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical!

Advice given in Spanish, English and German.

M. 636 465 010 rainerhobrack@gmail.com www.bcnseguros.es

Garment Printing - BUSINESS Garment Printing is an industry leading, product and apparel printing company based in Spain and the UK. Whether you’re a global brand starting out or simply coaching a youth football team, Garment Printing can help you with all your printing needs, offering excellent advice and a flexible, speedy service. With over 15 years experience, we know what it means to deliver a quality product. Contact us today for a free, no hassle quotation.

Comte d’Urgell 28 T. 93 393 8194 www.garmentprinting.es

45-48 Business mar2015.indd 45

VISIT OUR ONLINE BUSINESS DIRECTORY www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

2/25/15 5:47 PM

SHOPPING

CONTACT US NOW TO ENQUIRE ABOUT OUR PROMOTIONS FOR YOUR CHRISTMAS CAMPAIGN

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com

For more shopping visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/shopping MESA BONITA OWN A PIECE OF BARCELONA! Gayarre, 2 Pral, 08014 · T. 627 230 824 · benedictebodard@gmail.com www.mesabonita.es · www.facebook.com/pages/Mesa-Bonita

24 KILATES

If you’re new to Barcelona and love its architecture or just looking for that perfect gift for your loved ones, Mesa Bonita has the answer: Bénédicte Bodard has been collecting antique hydraulic floor tiles in Barcelona, after cleaning and restoring them, she turns them into really gorgeous tables, frames, trivets and coasters made to order. Many are over 130 years old! Visit her studio in Sants where you can see her huge collection.

Located in the Born shopping area, this exclusive streetwear store has become internationally renowned thanks to its exciting design collaborations with many famous brands like New Balance, Stussy, Reebok, Lacoste, Puma, Asics, Nike, Saucony, Adidas, New Era and more. Definitely worth a look.

ECOOLOGY

BCN PAINTING ROUTE

Comte Urgell 28, 08011 · T. 606 53 54 93 · Mon-Fri 11am-7pm www.ecology.es

Carrer de Lledó 17 · T. 93 319 9178 bcnpaintingroute@outlook.es · www.facebook.com/BCNPaintingRoute

Wear the latest trends made in Barcelona with the best ecological fabrics. Now you can be fashionable and respect the planet, you can feel good and unique with limited edition eco fashion that matches your personality. Forget about dressing like everyone else, you are different. Ecoology is ethical, cool and trendy eco-fashion for your everyday lifetime.

New gallery in the heart of the Gothic quarter showcasing oil paintings on canvas and other works of art. High quality paintings starting from just €40 The perfect place to find the perfect painting of Barcelona.

PARRUP

OJALA!

Ciutat 14 · T. 93 601 1830 · www.ojala.es · Mon-Sat 10am-8,30pm

Banys Nous 17 · www.parrup.com www.facebook.com/ParrupBarcelona

OJALA! is the fashion brand by Paloma Del Pozo, hailed as one of today’s most original and creative Spanish designers. Her new Barcelona boutique is located on a charming street in the Gothic quarter, only 50 metres from the Plaça Sant Jaume. Del Pozo designs joyful, colourful and elegant quality garments that will make any women stand out in a crowd.

PARRUP brings together the best from local designers, carefully selected unique pieces, limited edition products and finely crafted clothes, jewellery, art and furniture.Why PARRUP? Because they love talented people. Because they want to showcase what they can offer. Because they believe in the local economy and production transparency. Because they don’t believe in the ‘made in Asia’ business. Nothing more but nothing less.

ARTSHOP

FURTIVO SKATEBOARDING

Sitges 7 · T. 93 676 2311 · www.facebook.com/Artshopbcn

Located close to Plaça Catalunya, the Artshop has a full range of artist supplies and a small family gallery. If you need a simple watercolour set or any other specialist items, they can be bought or ordered for you at the shop.

www.furtivoskateboarding.com

Furtivo Skateboarding is an online skateboarding shop with selected products of premium brands, offering hi-end skateboarding products. Pro-Models represent 80 percent of their stock.

You can find: Plan B, Flip, Blind, Cliché, Darkstar, Enjoi, Element, BLVD, Toy Machine, Foundation and many more. They deliver world wide in 24 to 48 hours. Register now to take advantage of their offers and promotions.

BATEAU LUNE

KITSCH

Bateau Lune is a traditional toy shop for kids where you can find a large variety of traditional toys including; wooden bicycles, trains, also micro scooters, also kites and outdoor games and many more rare and original toys. Go visit them today and get ideas for special occasions such as birthday presents and Christmas gifts.

Check out their free activities for children twice a month on the Virreina square in Gràcia!

Opened in 1978, Kitsch is Spain´s very first sex shop. The shop offers a wide range of toys from quality brands like LELO, Fun Factory, Iroha, Tenga and WeVibe, as well as condoms, books, lingerie, movies and more. The shop also arranges guided tours and talks by psychologists/ sexologists. They have an extensive online shop too.

Plaça Virreina 7, 08012 · T. 93 218 6907 www.bateaulune.com · info@bateaulune.com www.facebook.com/bateaulune

45-48 Business mar2015.indd 46

Comerç 29 · T. 93 268 8437 · www.24-kts.com

Muntaner 17-19 (Eixample) L1/L2 (Universitat) · T. 93 453 2052 info@kitsch.es · www.kitsch.es Open Mon-Sat 10am-10pm

2/25/15 5:47 PM

BUSINESS SERVICES DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

FREE CONSULTATION

LEGAL SERVICES

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

INTEGRA ADVISERS - CONSULTANT Legal and business consulting firm that promotes entrepreneurial activity in Spain. Services include; Accounting, tax, financial advice, immigration, national insurance registration and payroll, legal and real estate advice.

Aribau 207, Ppal A1, 08021 T. 93 414 6242 M. 615 405 045 info@integra-advisers.com www.integra-advisers.com Tessal - LEGAL SERVICES This Legal and business consulting firm offers the value-added services and resources you need to set up and develop your business. Assistance in each stage of legal paperwork and permit procedures, accounting, tax and labour obligations, e-commerce and data protection services to complete the running of your business in Spain.

Perú 40-44, Esc. 2 2º A, 08018, T. 93 486 9451 info@tessal.com www.tessal.com

Fletcher Consultancy Ltd -

Sánchez Molina -

CONSULTANCY

LEGAL PRACTICE

Fletcher Consultancy Ltd. now operates in Spain providing tailored training and development services for managers and employees, development and access to UK qualifications for ex-pats, HR services for development of competence based systems. Our UK business services blue chip clients in both public and private sectors. We have special offers for new clients, including free mystery shopping and training needs analysis.

The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French.

They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

shirleydirect@aol.com M. +44 799 053 4331 www.fletcherconsultancy.co.uk www.nvqenespana.com

Barcelona Women’s Network - BUSINESS

Supported charities 2014 - 2016

• Barcelona’s premier network for international women • Over 200 members from 30+ countries.

• As a social club that supports local charities and offers a business network, activities include social gatherings, cultural outings, volunteer opportunities, and business seminars.

We help women thrive and feel at home in Barcelona.

Book and Bake Sale 18th April 2015 10am-6pm Casa Orlandai Proceeds to charity. membership@bcnwomensnetwork.com

20% DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS GES40 - ENGLISH SPEAKING LAWYERS They are a law firm established in 1986. They aim to provide comprehensive legal counselling to both individuals and companies, in all areas of law. As a team they are highly specialized in a number of different legal areas, with high levels of training, experience and professional strength. They offer a fully personalised service, providing rapid, effective responses without compromising the quality of their service. They also offer their clients a 24-hour online consultation service.

Through this online follow-up service, interested parties can access their virtual office to consult the information in their files anytime and from anywhere.

“We devote our efforts to provide full support and assistance to conduct any personal or business activity in Spain with confidence”.

Calàbria 267, 3r 1a, 08029, T. 93 217 6414, ges40assessors@ges40.com mruiz@ges40.com www.ges40.com,

45-48 Business mar2015.indd 43

president@bcnwomensnetwork.com www.bcnwomensnetwork.com

Mac in Barcelona COMPUTERS Stéphane Clément is an Apple technician and consultant with over fifteen years of experience.

Anna Piqué, a native from Barcelona, assists Stéphane with her business and communication background.

Their focus is on providing good service and installations with clear communicative skills and personal advice. The aim is to solve your computer troubles and teach you how to improve your daily use of your Mac and its various accessories, giving you an opportunity for a more pleasant and safer computer experience.

Cami de Mas Roig a Mas Fuster 47 Valldoreix, 08197, M. 608 994 599 info@macinbarcelona.com www.macinbarcelona.com

2/25/15 5:48 PM

Mrs.Q design studio -

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS

GRAPHIC DESIGN

BRANDING PACKAGES ·POSTER & FLYER design BROCHURES wedding stationery

BOOK NOW FOR A FREE DEMO

Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services.Contact Mrs.Q for their competitive business packages which includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as flyers, posters and brochures. They specialises in bespoke invitations.

Visit their Etsy page to see examples for their work www.etsy.com/shop/ MrsQdesignstudio. Designed with love! 10% off now!

George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years.

Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

Easi-Sat - TELEVISION SERVICE

Gusto Films - FILM

Specialists in satellite TV, HD, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reliability throughout Catalunya for many years. Their professional team provides satellite television from across Europe, including Dutch, French, Italian and Russian, at unbeatable prices. They have solutions for loss of UK channels, with or without a dish. New IPTV is the solution to viewing UK freesat channels, BBC’s, ITV’s, Al Jazeera sports 1-10, and many more. Follow them on Facebook/Easisat and Twitter ‘@ PaulDuval15’.

Gustofilms is a production company specialising in promotional film. We dedicate ourselves to the creation and making of high-quality audiovisual content. We like to innovate, discover and imagine. We love style, down to the smallest detail.

Nos gusta gustar.

T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 enquiries@easisat.net www.easisat.net

Corsa - DRIVING SCHOOL

Sant Quinti 47, 4º5ª, 08041 T. 93 007 4408 M. 636 611 029 info@gustofilms.es www.gustofilms.es

STOP N’ DRIVE DRIVING SCHOOL

Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn everything you need to know about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

Ask for the special Metropolitan reader offers

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324 www.corsa.cat/en/courses www.facebook.es/autoescuelacorsa

Bejar 67, 08014 (Between plaza España and Sants Estació) www.aestopndrive.com

BCN WINDOWS -

ARC97SL - OFFICE AND HOME IMPROVEMENTS

HOME IMPROVEMENTS Do you have a cold or noisy flat? High heating bills? Then BCN Windows can help! They can double glaze your traditional wooden windows and doors without changing the way they look. Their unique system offers noise reduction, energy saving comfort and is environmentally friendly. Visit their website for more information; it even shows you how to price your own windows. Call Michael on 619 908 642 and quote ‘Metropolitan’ for a free consultation..

M. 619 908 642 www.bcnwindows.es

45-48 Business mar2015.indd 44

Stop by their driving school to learn about how you can get your Spanish (European) driving license in English and from home! Don’t let time be your excuse. Stop N’ Drive is the first driving school in Barcelona that instructs you through online videos and offers intensive courses lasting only two weeks, between 7.30pm to 10pm.

STOP N’ DRIVE Driving school courses are low-cost, so don’t hesitate to get in touch with them and start your journey.

Become a driver in Barcelona!

Do you want to build or renovate your office or flat? ARC97 specialise in the design and construction of new works and renovations. They are committed from beginning to end and take care of every detail of each project. They will tailor any project according to your specific needs, style, taste and interests.

They guarantee that all work will be completed on time and within budget.

Media and Marketing Assistant Jo Elizabeth Hardman M. 610 544 614 Pietat 8 baixos, 08002 arc97@arc97.com www.arc97.com

2/25/15 5:48 PM

10% DISCOUNT

BERLITZ - SCHOOL At Berlitz language school they have a teacher available for you whether you take face-to-face classes or through their virtual classroom with a huge range of courses available for English, French, German, Russian and Spanish. Their amazing online platform has more than 218 specialties which can be adapted to fit your needs. Their one-day business workshops can also add the finishing touch to your professional language needs. 10% discount with this advert.

Av. Diagonal 382, 08037 Tel. 93 215 0100 barcelona1@berlitz.es www.berlitz.es Mon-Fri 8am-09.30pm

Coral - SPANISH TEACHER Reach a Spanish level that best fits your time, interests and needs!

Try Coral’s personalised courses using interesting and effective methods that make learning easy. She will come to your home or business and provide the material. All levels; private or small groups (up to 3). 60-min class €25; 90-min class €35. If you need classes via SKYPE, she can also offer online lessons. She is a native, experienced and highly-qualified teacher.

M. 676 249 744 coral@coralprada.com

La Luna Shipping LOGISTICS We offer a complete service to efficiently manage any kind of transport. Anywhere in the world, from a overnight courier service, to an airfreight or seafreight shipment to the other side of the world. We are specialist managing personal effects shipments, small “boxed” removals from Barcelona to Europe, UK, USA, Australia, New Zealand. Don’t look further, LA LUNA shipping is your one stop shop for your transport and logistics needs in Barcelona.

T. 93 220 1715 info@laluna.coop www.laluna.coop facebook.com/ somos.lalunashipping

BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from 4 - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday.

The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience.

They also offer specialised summer programs, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.

Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

BCN Seguros - INSURANCE Local Barcelona Insurance Agency providing complete personal and business insurance services. (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.) We offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical!

Advice given in Spanish, English and German.

M. 636 465 010 rainerhobrack@gmail.com www.bcnseguros.es

Garment Printing - BUSINESS Garment Printing is an industry leading, product and apparel printing company based in Spain and the UK. Whether you’re a global brand starting out or simply coaching a youth football team, Garment Printing can help you with all your printing needs, offering excellent advice and a flexible, speedy service. With over 15 years experience, we know what it means to deliver a quality product. Contact us today for a free, no hassle quotation.

Comte d’Urgell 28 T. 93 393 8194 www.garmentprinting.es

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SHOPPING

CONTACT US NOW TO ENQUIRE ABOUT OUR PROMOTIONS FOR YOUR CHRISTMAS CAMPAIGN

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com

For more shopping visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/shopping MESA BONITA OWN A PIECE OF BARCELONA! Gayarre, 2 Pral, 08014 · T. 627 230 824 · benedictebodard@gmail.com www.mesabonita.es · www.facebook.com/pages/Mesa-Bonita

24 KILATES

If you’re new to Barcelona and love its architecture or just looking for that perfect gift for your loved ones, Mesa Bonita has the answer: Bénédicte Bodard has been collecting antique hydraulic floor tiles in Barcelona, after cleaning and restoring them, she turns them into really gorgeous tables, frames, trivets and coasters made to order. Many are over 130 years old! Visit her studio in Sants where you can see her huge collection.

Located in the Born shopping area, this exclusive streetwear store has become internationally renowned thanks to its exciting design collaborations with many famous brands like New Balance, Stussy, Reebok, Lacoste, Puma, Asics, Nike, Saucony, Adidas, New Era and more. Definitely worth a look.

ECOOLOGY

BCN PAINTING ROUTE

Comte Urgell 28, 08011 · T. 606 53 54 93 · Mon-Fri 11am-7pm www.ecology.es

Carrer de Lledó 17 · T. 93 319 9178 bcnpaintingroute@outlook.es · www.facebook.com/BCNPaintingRoute

Wear the latest trends made in Barcelona with the best ecological fabrics. Now you can be fashionable and respect the planet, you can feel good and unique with limited edition eco fashion that matches your personality. Forget about dressing like everyone else, you are different. Ecoology is ethical, cool and trendy eco-fashion for your everyday lifetime.

New gallery in the heart of the Gothic quarter showcasing oil paintings on canvas and other works of art. High quality paintings starting from just €40 The perfect place to find the perfect painting of Barcelona.

PARRUP

OJALA!

Ciutat 14 · T. 93 601 1830 · www.ojala.es · Mon-Sat 10am-8,30pm

Banys Nous 17 · www.parrup.com www.facebook.com/ParrupBarcelona

OJALA! is the fashion brand by Paloma Del Pozo, hailed as one of today’s most original and creative Spanish designers. Her new Barcelona boutique is located on a charming street in the Gothic quarter, only 50 metres from the Plaça Sant Jaume. Del Pozo designs joyful, colourful and elegant quality garments that will make any women stand out in a crowd.

PARRUP brings together the best from local designers, carefully selected unique pieces, limited edition products and finely crafted clothes, jewellery, art and furniture.Why PARRUP? Because they love talented people. Because they want to showcase what they can offer. Because they believe in the local economy and production transparency. Because they don’t believe in the ‘made in Asia’ business. Nothing more but nothing less.

ARTSHOP

FURTIVO SKATEBOARDING

Sitges 7 · T. 93 676 2311 · www.facebook.com/Artshopbcn

Located close to Plaça Catalunya, the Artshop has a full range of artist supplies and a small family gallery. If you need a simple watercolour set or any other specialist items, they can be bought or ordered for you at the shop.

www.furtivoskateboarding.com

Furtivo Skateboarding is an online skateboarding shop with selected products of premium brands, offering hi-end skateboarding products. Pro-Models represent 80 percent of their stock.

You can find: Plan B, Flip, Blind, Cliché, Darkstar, Enjoi, Element, BLVD, Toy Machine, Foundation and many more. They deliver world wide in 24 to 48 hours. Register now to take advantage of their offers and promotions.

BATEAU LUNE

KITSCH

Bateau Lune is a traditional toy shop for kids where you can find a large variety of traditional toys including; wooden bicycles, trains, also micro scooters, also kites and outdoor games and many more rare and original toys. Go visit them today and get ideas for special occasions such as birthday presents and Christmas gifts.

Check out their free activities for children twice a month on the Virreina square in Gràcia!

Opened in 1978, Kitsch is Spain´s very first sex shop. The shop offers a wide range of toys from quality brands like LELO, Fun Factory, Iroha, Tenga and WeVibe, as well as condoms, books, lingerie, movies and more. The shop also arranges guided tours and talks by psychologists/ sexologists. They have an extensive online shop too.

Plaça Virreina 7, 08012 · T. 93 218 6907 www.bateaulune.com · info@bateaulune.com www.facebook.com/bateaulune

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Comerç 29 · T. 93 268 8437 · www.24-kts.com

Muntaner 17-19 (Eixample) L1/L2 (Universitat) · T. 93 453 2052 info@kitsch.es · www.kitsch.es Open Mon-Sat 10am-10pm

2/25/15 5:48 PM

JOBS

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER FOR MORE JOB OFFERS @bcnmetropolitan #jobsbarcelona

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS

www.classifieds.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Sales Manager (B2B) Events & Congresses International Congress group seeks experienced, results producing Sales Manager to direct our European sales team. Company sets up tradeshows and exhibitions for global companies at international events. We sell to our database of global companies.

Job accountabilities include: •Exceeding sales quota.

•Recruiting, hiring and training sales staff.

•Reporting and other project assigned by management.

•Always on the lookout to Increase turnover.

Successful candidate must meet the following criteria 5 or more years of sales directorship experience in events, hospitality, marketing, public relations or international business.

This is a permanent full time position. Candidate required to have fully functional home office with broadband internet for CRM, voice and video communications. Company provides Telephone, Email and CRM systems. Great team, full training, generous commission/bonus/incentive program.

For consideration, please send cover letter, CV and photo to

staff@intltradeshowcouncil.com.

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W

e’re from a small town near Ekaterinburg, the fourth-largest city in Russia. We’re sisters and our mother had a dance school, so it’s in the blood. When we were kids, we used to put on performances at home and sell tickets to our parents. We did classical ballet, traditional dancing and ballroom dancing. We practically grew up in the studio.

The first time we saw Irish dancing, we were blown away. It was the famous Eurovision interval in 1994, when Michael Flatley and Jean Butler came flying onto the stage. It was a WOW moment. We’d never seen anything like it. In those days, no shows came to Russia on tour and there were certainly no Irish dancing schools, but our mother managed to get hold of a Riverdance video, and we watched it continuously.

We never planned to live in Barcelona. We came here on holiday for a month with our father, when Polina fell ill. She had a fever and was admitted to hospital, where she was diagnosed with Hodgkin Lymphoma.

She was 25 years old. So we chose to stay here for treatment, which is much better than in Russia. That was 10 years ago.

We only had summer clothes with us. It was a shock, but at the time, it was better not to think and just get on with it. We could only speak Russian and English when we arrived, so we had to learn the language, and learn quickly. It was very intense. Polina’s treatment lasted about a year and a half, followed by check-ups every three months.

Three and a half years ago she was given the all clear.

Irish dancing re-entered our radar after we had been here about a year. We were at an open-air concert by Carlos Nuñez, a famous piper from Galicia, and he was accompanied by a group called the Claddagh Ring Dancers. They were the first Irish dancing group in Barcelona, and originally started as an amateur group of local Irish dance fanatics.

Valeria called them the next day. We learnt our first steps with Claddagh Ring and danced together for a couple of years, before joining a professional company, Celtic Caos. It was a real fusion, made up of dancers from all sorts of different backgrounds. There was Irish, jazz, tap, ballet, Russian folk, all adapted to Celtic music. We danced full time, touring across Spain and Europe with a few different shows.

When the crisis hit, our gigs dwindled. Around that time, a qualified dancing teacher from the US, Erin Comaskey, joined Celtic Caos, and she took us right back to basics with technique. As meticulous Russians, we were relieved to finally go through it step-by-step from the beginning. After a couple of years, Erin went back to the US. Suddenly, we found ourselves quite alone. The company had dissolved and many of the dancers had left. So, we decided to take the leap and open our own school—Nuala—named after the Irish girl’s name, meaning ‘fair-shouldered and exceptionally lovely’. We liked that! It started with around six to eight people. We now have over 30 students, aged between four and 64, and Valeria has passed the TCRG teaching exams to prove our credentials.

Barcelona is a huge meeting point, and our classes are really international. We’ve got students from all over the world, all learning Irish dancing with Russian teachers. Sometimes it’s hard to know how to direct the class. The international language is dance—jump, hop 1, 2, 3, point—and in between saying the steps, we improvise with Catalan, Spanish and English.

We breathe, we dance. It’s everything. You fall in love because you fall in love, you cannot find the reason. It’s what we are, our reason for being. When Polina was ill, she never stopped dancing—it was her respite, a breath of fresh air. And it may well have saved her life.

POLINA AND VALERIA GOROKHVODATSKAYA IRISH DANCE TEACHERS, RUSSIA

nualairishdancers.com

By Ben Rowdon

SCOOP

PHOTO BY YAN PEKAR

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