Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 233 by Barcelona Metropolitan

JUNE 2016 Nº 233

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This is BarceloneTa The evolution of the beachside barrio

BehinD The scenes English theatre in the city

chilD’s PlaY

6 family-friendly hangouts

Go French!

Rendezvous on the Vermillion Coast

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MUSIC

FASHION

RESTAURANT REVIEWS

A PLACE OF MY OWN

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contents

METROPOLITAN contributors

{ISSUE 233} JUNE 2016

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New in Town In the City A Place of My Own Fashion Travel Food & Drink Coaching Column Interview

TARA STEVENS is a food writer and cook based between Barcelona and Fez, where she runs a small cookery school (www.darnamir.com). Years of writing for publications like Fool magazine, Condé Nast Traveler and the Sunday Times have taken her all over the world—from the kitchens of David Thompson’s Nahm in Bangkok to the icebergs of Illulissat in Greenland—in search of something good to eat. But her heart and stomach remain here in Spain, her favourite place of all to feast. Her new Metropolitan column of seasonal Spanish recipes are inspired by the people and places she loves most.

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Music Art Misc. Pullout Calendar

DiRectoRies 41 43 44 49

Food & Drink Health & Beauty Business Jobs

ARON PENCZU was born in Hungary and grew up in Switzerland, Malaysia, Japan and Spain. He graduated from Cambridge University in 2014 with a BA in English Literature and relocated to Barcelona last year to pursue a course in documentary filmmaking. He recently founded a small company, Budapest Productions, which produces short films. He likes running by the sea, good coffee and Moritz Epidor, and hopes to continue writing and making films.

Burlesque Festival Barcelona (p.24)

FeatuRes 12 RePoRt: sPotlight on BaRceloneta Aron Penczu takes a look at the evolution of Barcelona’s beachfront barrio. 18 uP on stage English theatre in the city. 29 chilD’s PlaY Six places to hang out with your little ones. 30 FouR-leggeD FRienDs The varied ways in which animals assist people. 34 BeYonD the costa BRaVa Venture up the Vermillion coast this summer.

Publisher The Noise Lab S.L. Managing Director Andrea Moreno Consulting Editor Esther Jones Editor Carol Moran Art Director Aisling Quigley Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell Sales Assistant Susanna Morton Editorial Assistants Rosalind Bond, Christina McKeon Frutuoso, George Rexstrew, Alexia Savva Design Assistant Melissa Fry Contributors Eimear Corrigan, Miquel Hudin, Rachel Huffman, Louise Johnson, Esther Jones, Sam Mednick, Aron Penczu, Tara Stevens, Sam Zucker Photographers Yan Pekar, William Rose Illustrator Ben Rowdon Cover photo Aron Penczu Carrer Duc 6, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486 www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Editorial: editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com General: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com. The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited. Depósito legal: B35159-96

LOUISE JOHNSON first fell in love with Barcelona during her family holidays to the Costa Brava. She has lived in several different countries around the world but always comes back to Barcelona for its great mix of people and the laid-back lifestyle. After years of working in local journalism and on BBC medical drama Holby City, she went freelance and has had articles and short stories published in various magazines both in the UK and abroad. Originally from London, she is currently working on a screenplay about flamenco dance.

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IN THE CITY

NEW IN TOWN CHICKEN TONIGHT

LA BROCHETTE. MUNTANER 215. Moroccan chef Laila Ikhoutirn and her Catalan partner, Santiago Rodero, opened the boldly-decorated La Brochette in January. Described as a ‘charming bistro dedicated to chicken’, the international pair have taken this culinary staple, which they cook a l’ast (spit-roasted), and transformed it. Ikhoutirn explained that healthy, proteinrich chicken meat is often overlooked as an unexciting food. Drawing inspiration from across the globe—from their native Morocco and Catalunya to Mexico, Japan, America and beyond—La Brochette presents unusual flavour combinations to create fun, different and delicious dishes. Vegetarians haven’t been forgotten, however, as there are other options on the menu, such as aubergine parmigiana, to satisfy the tastebuds. Ikhoutirn is best known for her sumptuous puddings, and her tiramisu and cheesecake (served in a giant jam jar) are firm favourites amongst their growing band of loyal customers. labrochette.es

BREWED TO PRFCTION

BUN IN THE OVEN

KOKU KITCHEN BUNS. COMERÇ 29. Situated in the heart of the Born with a modern interior and an open kitchen, Koku Kitchen Buns offers a unique take on the Taiwanese hirata bun. Irish duo, Mark Liston and Ross O’Doherty, took Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter by storm with their first restaurant, Koku Kitchen, specialising in ramen. Now, the pair have teamed up with Swedish chef, Robert Johansson, for their new venture. The buns are made from a variety of flours and are cooked in a bamboo steamer basket to maximise their fluffiness. Fillings range from pulled pork to free-range chicken, and are accompanied by homemade pickles, salads and sauces. Whilst specialising in buns, the menu also includes Korean kimchi (a spicy, fermented cabbage), Japanese tempura, shiitake yakitori (grilled shiitake skewers), Japanese don bowls with beef, vegetables or chicken, as well as coeliac and vegetarian-friendly dishes. Wash it all down with an Asian-inspired cocktail or one of eight draft beers from Spain and abroad. www.facebook.com/kokukitchenbunsbarcelona

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IMPRFCTO BAR. PARAL·LEL 104. Imagine ordering a drink at a favela-inspired bar, sipping it as you lean against a repurposed washing machine, and passing through a London telephone box as you enter the toilets, with the receiver dispensing water as you wash your hands. “There are so many bars here, you just have to be different,” explained Belgian artist Maxence Dopchie, who considered 20 different cities before he finally decided on setting up shop—or bar—in Barcelona. Despite the internationally-inspired interior, Dopchie’s home country is certainly at the heart of the menu. All beers are imported from Belgium, including Hoegaarden, Leffe and Trappist—the latter is a unique Belgian beer brewed in 11 monasteries across the world. Also on offer are mussels, waffles, fries and sauces. Set in a narrow and dimly-lit space, Dopchie’s Surrealist vision has been brought to life by waiters dressed in suits and bowler hats and elevatorinspired toilets. Whether it’s catching an evening game in the football area during Euro 2016 this month, or soaking up the summer sun on the outdoor terrace, this quirky Sant Antoni bar is an experience not to be missed. www.imprfcto.com

DIFFERENT WAYS TO SEE THE CITY

LAND AHOY! Cruise along the Barcelona coast and soak up miles of skyline in 90 minutes aboard the Golondrinas pleasure boat or the Orsom Catamaran. lasgolondrinas.com, barcelonaorsom.com JOG ON Kill two birds with one stone as you get in shape whilst taking in sweeping city views from the Carretera de les Aigües—a 10-kilometre path traversing the Collserola hills. DOWN TO EARTH Fear of flying? Rent a drone, complete with pilot, and capture the best bird’s eye views whilst keeping your feet on the ground. www.dronesenalquiler.com

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DOWN ‘N’ DIRTY

CHICKEN SHOP & DIRTY BURGER. PLAÇA DEL DUC DE MEDINACELI 2. Many foodie trends come and go almost overnight, but if there’s one craze that has stuck around, it’s ‘dirty food’, or in other words, fast food with a juicy twist. Forming part of this phenomenon, Dirty Burger and sister restaurant Chicken Shop come together in meaty harmony in the Gothic Quarter, following their joint success in Whitechapel, London. “The city is cool, trendy and there are always lots of things happening here. It fits our concept perfectly,” explained manager Christian De Martino. Offering chicken in three portion sizes, three burger options, a host of sides and various drinks, the menu is short and sweet. Set in a long, narrow and dimly-lit diner, the decor is a mash-up of Fifties furniture, reclaimed timber, mahogany, shop fittings and American wooden beer crates. The burgers are tender and rammed full of flavour, while the succulent rotisserie chickens are marinated overnight, steamed and then spit-roasted over charcoal in the open-plan kitchen. As for the homemade apple pie… well, you’ll just have to try that for yourself. www.chickenshop.com/barcelona

HOVER HIGH Go VIP for the day and enjoy an aerial tour of Barcelona’s cityscape with a whistlestop helicopter ride. cathelicopters.com ROLL WITH IT Don your rollerblades on a Friday night and join the APB rally as they roll their way frantically around the city. www.patinarbcn.org

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 IN THE CITY

STREETLIFE RAMBLA DEL POBLENOU The tree-lined Rambla del Poblenou has been the focus of the neighbourhood’s social and cultural life since the 19th century.

EL TÍO CHE It’s had a couple of relocations, first in the Born and then Barceloneta, but this horchatería finally settled in Poblenou in the Forties. During the summer it’s open until 2am, and offers a delightful range of ice cream, slushies, sandwiches and their famous horchata—a traditional Valencian drink made from water, sugar and tigernuts. www.eltioche.es

ECOBOTIGA

EL VINYET

‘Don’t panic, it’s organic!’ reads the sign outside this fruiteria ecològica, which has a second location in Gràcia. The fresh fruit and veg on offer are noticeably different to that which you find in a supermarket—not so shiny, ever so slightly smaller and more vibrant in both colour and taste. Regular customer, Julio, wouldn’t go anywhere else for his fresh produce: “Everything here is made under the sun, literally— the chickens that lay their eggs and the pesticide-free vegetables all live and grow in the open air and sunshine.” www.ecobotiga.cat

At the front of this shop, you can’t help but notice the wine barrels where you can fill up on vino a granel (wine on tap)—both local and international wines. “It makes the wine cheaper for the customer and it’s better for the environment,” explained Catalan owner, Montse. There’s an array of bottles on offer too at very reasonable prices. www.facebook.com/elvinyetceller

58 EL 58 As the shopfront suggests, there’s a touch of French flair on both the wine and food menu at this tapas restaurant, and their tarte au flet (a cheesy potato bake) is a favourite amongst the locals. Fabián, the manager, explained: “The restaurant is part of the ‘km 0’ movement. We only source our produce from local markets and vendors, as we hold the local community close to our hearts.” www.facebook.com/el58poblenou

METROPOLITAN PEOPLE

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WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE BEACH ALONG THE CATALAN COAST?

ANDY, 26,

ALEX, 51,

SALLY, 22,

OYSTER CATCHER, SPAIN

TEXTILES DESIGNER, ENGLAND

PRIMARY SCHOOL TEACHER, ENGLAND

I think La Conca is the most beautiful on the whole Costa Brava. My family have a second home in S’Agaró so I have a lot of memories of growing up there.

The beach at Selva del Mar is my favourite: hardly any tourists, easily accessible by metro and no ‘beer-cerveza’ men, unlike in Barceloneta.

Sitges is ideal for escaping the hustle and bustle of Barcelona. I go there for the annual film festival, and the town has a relaxed, creative atmosphere.

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74 MONOPOL Although no longer the social club for local football team Monopol, trophies and team photographs adorn the walls of the interior, which has a church hall feel to it. With a table football corner, ample space for swing and jazz nights, a big screen TV to watch matches and a laid-back roof terrace, Monopol is an authentic, timeless hub that exudes community spirit. It serves up a delicious breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, and attracts both young and old crowds, as well as some former Monopol players who gather in the patio every few days to play cards or dominoes. www.monopol.cat

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MADELEINE MON AMOUR Described by 20th-century writer Marcel Proust as the ‘ultimate treat for the senses’, this intimate twostorey restaurant pays homage to the madeleine—a small, shell-shaped French cake. Inspired by La Belle Époque of 19th-century Paris and its boudoir elegance, this cafe-restaurant offers both sweet and savoury versions of the cake. “I tried to imagine what sort of place Marcel Proust would visit nowadays,” explained manager and designer, Luigi Masala. www.madeleinemonamour.com

PALAZZOLO

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A sugary, vanilla smell fills this ice cream parlour. Italian-Australian owner, Jack, is a third-generation pastry and ice-cream maker from Sicily, and is the nephew of the renowned pastry masterchef, Santi Palazzolo. For authentic Italian ice cream, as well as pizza, pasta and other Italian dishes served at the weekend, Palazzolo is second to none.

ALICIA, 52, HAIRSTYLIST, SPAIN

Cadaqués has some of the best beaches in Spain. It’s also home to the CasaMuseu Salvador Dalí, so you can combine culture with chilling on the beach.

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IN THE CITY

A PLACE OF MY OWN CHARLES LANCASTER, A RETIRED ARCHITECT FROM LONDON, CREATES HIS IDEAL PIED-À-TERRE IN GRÀCIA.

fter travelling to Barcelona on holiday for five consecutive years, Londoner Charles Lancaster took the plunge and bought his own place in the city. He took a few pointers from friends before choosing a space with a view over the rooftops of Gràcia, up to Tibidabo. “Gràcia is nice because it feels like its own small village,” Charles said. “It’s a place that quickly felt like home, and there aren’t that many tourists.” Charles bought his apartment thinking it was move-in ready. “I didn’t want a project,” he explained. The previous owners, however, were selling because they could no longer afford the space. “I think they resented me a bit,” he said as he described how they stripped the apartment of everything before they left, taking every single stitch of furniture, as well as lights, outlet covers, skirting boards, etc. “What they couldn’t take, they broke,” Charles said. Although this was quite a shock, Charles put the plans in motion for a complete renovation, and the apartment was up and running by February 2011—less than six months after his purchase was finalised. Now Charles comes to Barcelona every other month, spending three weeks to a month at a time in the apartment. His wife, Pat, makes the trip with him around Christmastime. “She comes for the shopping,”

he said, “and my two daughters come separately once or twice a year.” With so much alone time, you would think Charles might get bored. But he was quick to respond, “It’s easy to spend a lot of time doing nothing here,” and after a long career as an architect, he deserves to relax. He occasionally goes to the nearby gym or watches movies at the cinema, and he also loves exploring the art galleries of Carrer d’Enric Granados to seek inspiration for his own works of art. “I’m not a very creative person,” he asserted, “but I am a wiz at copying images I like.” For example, on the wall separating the two bedrooms of the flat, Charles copied Robert Indiana’s iconic Pop Art image LOVE. “That’s probably my favourite thing in here,” he revealed.

“It’s not hard for me to start a painting, but rather to know when to stop.” Moving into the living room, the main focal point is a Mondrian replica on a white wall. Charles has perfectly recreated the Dutch painter’s grid of vertical and horizontal black lines filled with the primary colours. On opposing walls in the same room, Charles has

Charles displays his artwork throughout the apartment—both his own creations and reproductions

If you have made yourself an interesting home from home and would like to appear in our Place of My Own feature, please send an email to editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com.

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Abstract Expressionism influences set the tone for this Gràcia home

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hung two original pieces, which he created using normal household paint. “For these two, I painted what was relevant to me at the time,” he said. “It’s not hard for me to start a painting, but rather to know when to stop.” Charles entitled these two abstract paintings Be Careful What You Wish For and Afraid of the Dark. They match the black, white and red colour scheme of the living room and, together with the rest of the details throughout the apartment, complete the Fifties Abstract Expressionist style Charles envisioned for the decor. Right before he began to decorate the apartment, Charles went to the MOMA (Museum of Modern Art) in New York City. “I think that’s where my inspiration for the design came from.” He took note of works by leading figures of the movement, such as Jackson Pollock and Willem de Kooning, and in turn fashioned a space that allows for spontaneous creative acts to take place. For instance, when he felt he needed a peaceful image to wake up to, he went to work painting a blurred landscape of yellows, tans and soft blacks. “Our family home in London is more gothic gloom,” he continued, “so I wanted this place to be on the other end of the spectrum.” With a Mr. Brainwash poster of the Queen of England hanging in the guest bedroom—in which Her Majesty is decked out in aviator sunglasses, a chunky silver chain around her neck and a fur shrug—there’s no doubt that he has achieved exactly what he was aiming for.

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Spotlight on Barceloneta

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Photo by William Rose

THE EVOLUTION OF BARCELONA’S BEACHFRONT BARRIO, FROM ITS FORMATION IN THE 15TH CENTURY TO THE PRESENT DAY. BY ARON PENCZU.

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Photo by William Rose

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Photo by William Rose

very day, more tourists crowd the beachfront promenade; every weekend their tide swells into a flood. Manteros at their trade play cat-andmouse with the police. Locals with weather-worn faces hunch over dominos, deaf to the seasonal hubbub, or strip off to swim in the sea. This is Barceloneta—the modest, residential winter barrio that transforms into the city’s playground come summer. If its idyllic Mediterranean seascape is its main asset, it’s also a façade. A stone’s throw from the lively beach hangouts lies a complex, disputed neighbourhood undergoing profound change. For some locals, the seafront’s redevelopment has brought only fear and worry. Short-term tourist lets place upward pressure on property prices and drive the gentrification and cultural shift heralded by surfing shops, bicycle rentals and smart cocktail bars. Grassroots protests in recent years have symbolised a deep-rooted conflict between residents and holidaymakers, although Barceloneta is hardly alone in that regard. The struggle to reconcile a rich culture and history with the imperatives of burgeoning tourism is symptomatic not only of Barcelona but of an entire class of modern cities. Barceloneta was created in the 15th century. Until then, its triangular contours contained mostly seawater; the barrio was born when the island of Maians, little more than a reef, was linked up with the rest of the city in the construction of Barcelona’s first port. Over the subsequent centuries, natural sand deposits and re-construction enlarged the peninsula, and a fisherman’s shantytown sprang up, inaugurating an association with seafood which continues to this day. Later, in the 18th century, a significant engineering project was undertaken to accommodate inhabitants of La Ribera displaced by the construction of the Citadel—a star-shaped fortress built by Philip V following the 1714 siege of Barcelona, in order to maintain control over a city in turmoil. This expanded version of Barceloneta remained

The bustling beachfront has transformed almost beyond recognition in the last 25 years

Walking tour 1. Carmen Amaya Fountain. Plaça de Brugada. Carmen Amaya was twice invited to dance at the White House, starred in Los Tarantos (1963), and has been called “the most extraordinary personality of all time in flamenco dance”. The tribute to the Somorrostro-born Romani dancer features two guitarists and three flamenco dancers. 2. Casa de la Barceloneta. Sant Carles 6. A museum loyal to its own barrio, established with the objective of preserving and disseminating Barceloneta’s culture. It hosts everything from temporary exhibitions of old photographs to contemporary art installations, talks and workshops. 3. Museu d’Història de Catalunya. Palau del Mar. Alongside restaurants, a rooftop bar, a bookshop and a new brewerybar, the red-brick Palau del Mar houses a museum dedicated to tracing Catalunya’s past from prehistory to today. Free on the last Tuesday of the month between October and June. 4. Església de Sant Miquel del Port. Sant Miquel 39. The Baroque church of Saint Michael dates back to the mid-18th century and was designed by Pedro Martín Cermeño, son of the neighbourhood’s principal architect. Famously built low enough for Ciutadella cannons to fire over. 5. Mercat de la Barceloneta. Plaça del Poeta Boscà. The award-winning building designed by MiAS Arquitectes in 2007 preserves the original 1884 structure and overlooks Barceloneta’s main square—Plaça del Poeta Boscà. Visit for fresh seafood, a terrace cortado or a menú del día.

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Photos by Aron Penczu

a largely working-class district that made its living from a modest fishing fleet. Eventually it would play host to a number of factories that gave it the industrial character it only recently shed, among them the important Maquinista Terrestre y Marítima, which fabricated all kinds of machinery and metalwork and once employed over 3,000 workers. During the Civil War, the area suffered extensive damage during the air raids carried out between 1937 and 1939 at the hands of Franco’s fascist allies—a horror that presaged what was to come elsewhere in Europe throughout World War II. Targets of military significance—the great Maquinista complex among them—were spared destruction by the Italian pilots, who targeted civilian areas and circumvented the air-raid alarm system with continuous bombing waves. Reconstruction was slow and irregular. The neighbourhood entered living memory in a precarious state. Sister Pilar García, a 93-year-old nun who has taught disadvantaged children here for over seven decades, recalls arriving in the city in 1944. “Barceloneta no era Barceloneta,” she said. “Today’s Barceloneta is another place altogether.” At the time, shantytowns, known as barracas, thronged the quarter’s perimeter, including the waterfront, and housed 20,000 people at their peak. The makeshift houses were frequently flooded by the sea. Despite lacking basic amenities, they formed self-contained districts with distinct histories and personalities; ‘Somorrostro’ was immortalised in Los Tarantos (1963), an Oscar-nominated film of flamenco dancers and gypsy singers. Today, the shantytown lives on as the name of one of the most frequented stretches of beach, over which Frank Gehry’s Peix d’Or sculpture presides. “In the barracas, there were families with 10 children,” Sister Pilar said. “The eldest couldn’t go to school because they stayed at home to watch the young ones while the mother continued to work and the father was fishing.” It was here, inside a small chapel, that the Daughters of Charity established a school and food bank—on whose site the much-expanded Obra Social Santa Lluisa de Marillac, a social integration programme, continues to operate. Though the poverty of the time is hard to imagine, Sister Pilar spoke about the neighbourly atmosphere with nostalgia. “People knew each other well and had a great deal to do with each other’s lives. Now all that’s changed.” Other long-time residents echo her views, evoking a bygone era when neighbours spent their weekends chatting outside on Barceloneta’s narrow streets and ground-floor doors were left open. Immigration was the first significant change of the last 50 years. Today, 35 percent of households surveyed in Barceloneta have at least one foreign national—almost twice the statistic for Barcelona as a whole. Traditional neighbourhood relationships, however, were probably fractured less by the influx of newcomers than the elimination of the artisanal jobs that had sustained them. One retired fisherman expressed his resentment at a long list of foreign intruders—South Americans, gypsies, the Chinese— whilst on the other hand Regina, a former professor of literature, called it “normal—a symptom of our time.” She believes that the fact that immigration is still relatively recent in Spain (largely post-Sixties) accounts for some of the continuing tension. The second great change came with the 1992 Summer Olympics. Its organisers set in motion several large-scale projects that would make a lasting imprint on the city. Though National Geographic has named it the top beach city in the world, before the Olympic-era transformation, Barceloneta’s dirty sand, unclean waters and cheap seaside bars were largely avoided. “For years, the beach at Barceloneta […] was unused,” wrote Colm Tóibín in Homage to Barcelona (1990). “Nobody in his right mind would go down there for a swim.” Sister Pilar also remembered it vividly, describing it as "a trash-heap.” In the run-up to the Olympics, the last of the shantytowns were cleared away, a promenade was built, palm trees replaced old-time xiringuitos (beach bars) made of rickety wood, and sand was imported from Egypt. The magnitude of this volte-face cannot be overstated. “Barcelona was a city with its back to the ocean,” said Regina. “Before the Olympics, it underwent many transformations—and the first was opening up to the sea.” The sculpture erected in honour of Barceloneta’s history and development,

Above: Barrio flags, signs protesting against tourism and residents' laundry sway in the breeze as people queue up outside the food bank below. Below: Sister Pilar García.

Fancy new neighbours Recent years have seen a huge transformation in the marina at Port Vell, overlooked by Barceloneta’s Passeig de Joan de Borbó. In 2010, the Marina Port Vell was sold to a group of Russian oligarchs. Rumours of shady deals surrounded this transaction, raising difficult questions for the local authorities involved. Nevertheless, the marina, which includes 162 moorings and a private members’ club (OneOcean Club), is now almost complete and has been dubbed as the new hub for superyachts in the Mediterranean. A similar project, known as the Marina Vela, is underway that will transform the other side of the port. This new marina will offer a total of 358 moorings—136 waterside and 222 dry dock—and will extend along the pier beyond the Hotel W. The impact of these transformations on Barceloneta remains to be seen. There will be more tourists, although positive economic and social benefits are questionable.

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English Summer Program Monday, June 27th - Friday, July 22nd

STUDENTS FROM

3-17

yEaRS OlD

MORNING PROGRAM: from 9.30am to 2pm ALL DAY PROGRAM: from 9.30 am to 5 pm* (*Lunch included)

• Classes and activities in English from Monday to Friday. • Art, sports, video, swimming. • Qualified native teachers. • Transportation included. American School of Barcelona | Jaume Balmes 7, 08950 | Esplugues de Llobregat Tel. 93 371 4016 | Email for more info. english@asbarcelona.com

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Homenatge a la Barceloneta by Rebecca Horn—also known as l’Estel Ferit (‘the Wounded Star’)—consists of four, large iron boxes piled up into a crooked tower, recalling the low-rise buildings of the 18th century, and the neighbourhood’s seafaring past. For some, it captures a charm dissipated by this drive for progress, though others contend that the romantic past it evokes never existed. The new seaside has its advantages. Few residents, grumble though they might, pass up the opportunity to catch the sun on its popular sands. The 30 hectares of beach are raked and 50,000 litres of waste are removed every night—a Sisyphean task that few appreciate. But the reconstruction also brought about a fringe economy almost entirely dependent on tourism. Many of the restaurants lining Passeig Joan de Borbó are expensive and low quality; the new beach bars cater to foreign tastes; hawkers flood the beach in summertime. “Barcelona is the Vegas of Europe,” claimed Enrique Valery, a 30-year-old Venezuelan who has been living here for about 18 months. Tourist numbers have rocketed in the last 25 years, rising from 1.7 million in 1990, to over eight million in 2015. But it’s not just quantity that is a concern, it’s also quality. Barcelona has developed a party reputation that attracts a certain kind of tourism not so compatible with residents. Locals fear Barceloneta is becoming a magnet for the inebriated antics that visitors rein in back home, something that has grabbed a lot of media attention—from the 2014 incident of three naked Italian tourists shopping in the neighbourhood, to the crackdown on illegal Airbnb apartments. Unlike some long-term residents, however, Valery doesn’t feel Barceloneta has lost its neighbourly appeal. “It’s a town within a city,” he said of the inner Barceloneta largely bypassed by touristic currents. “Everyone knows each other, everyone treats each other kind of like family,” he said as he pointed out the barrio’s flag hanging proudly from slender balconies overlooking Barceloneta’s central square, Plaça del Poeta Boscà. Luuk Mande, an affable 53-year-old Dutchman who runs Ké—a cheerful bar on Plaça del Poeta Boscà—also acknowledged the neighbourhood’s community vibe. “The funny thing is that Barceloneta hasn’t changed that much. For me it’s still a village.” He has lived here for almost 10 years, mostly above the bar, whose eclectic atmosphere attracts a diverse crowd. But Ké also seems to have been adopted by locals. “When I first opened the bar, I thought they would hate me because I’m different, but that’s not true,” he said. “A lot of Catalans like it because it’s a bit international.” He also played down the impact of tourism on Barceloneta. One might be forgiven for considering short-term lets as the third great shaker of Barceloneta, but Mande argues that minor carpings have been inflated by media attention to the detriment of the city’s economy. It’s certainly true that tourist lets have reduced in number. In the summer of 2014, officials responded to grassroots pressure by accosting tourists on the street and knocking on doors with requests for proof of residence. Flyers were plastered on buildings asking for suspected renters to be reported, and many residents have stories about exorbitant fines for those caught guilty. Valery, who works at Airbnb, estimated that the number of Barceloneta flats advertised on the website has since plunged by over 50

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Luuk Mande, owner of Ké bar on Plaça del Poeta Boscà

Local haunts There is many a tourist trap in Barceloneta, but look a little harder and the neighbourhood is home to many local favourites. Café de los Angelitos. Almirall Cervera 26. Where Barcelona’s piano-touting street band go to drink after work. Famous for its expert cocktails, live music and quality service. El Vaso de Oro. Balboa 6. This bustling, narrow bar is one of the best in the barrio for a beer and some posh tapas. Squeeze in along the bar and order the solomillo con foie. La Cova Fumada. Baluard 56. Barceloneta’s quintessential, family-run establishment. It serves Catalan fare, and it’s the birthplace of the ‘bomba’ (a deep-fried ball of mashed potato and pork), invented almost 50 years ago by the current owner’s grandmother. Bar Leo. Sant Carles 34. Plastered with old banknotes, hats, magazine pages and pictures of crooner Miguel ‘Bambino’ Jiménez, Bar Leo possesses an indescribable charm. More Barceloneta classics to try: El Cheriff. Ginebra 15. Salamanca. Almirall Cervera 34. Carballeira. Reina Cristina 3. Paco Alcalde. Almirall Aixada 12.

percent. Though there are still reports of early-morning house parties, Barceloneta seems to have quietened down somewhat. It remains a barrio of paradoxes, and it’s hard to say what the future holds. Despite its prime location, Barceloneta’s idiosyncratic, skinny-staircased flats forestall real gentrification. In 2015, the average cost of renting a property in Barceloneta was reportedly €16.3/m2 per month, considerably higher than the city average of €11.1, yet the average apartment rental price was just €602.6 compared to a city average of €734.9—a discrepancy accounted for by the typically diminutive size of the neighbourhood’s apartments, averaging at around 40m2, in comparison with 70.7m2 in Barcelona as a whole. As a result, many remain affordable to students, retirees and other demographics who might otherwise be at risk of being priced out. The 15,000 inhabitants crammed into Barceloneta’s narrow streets make it one of the most densely-populated neighbourhood in Barcelona, yet the residential character of its interior makes it generally quieter than the Barri Gòtic or the Born. If the Airbnb crisis has subsided for now, the easyJet generation will undoubtedly continue its annual invasion. To foreign eyes at least, however, Barceloneta retains a distinctive appeal. Grizzled men start drinking in its oblong bars at nine in the morning. Small holes-in-the-wall are still run by families: a mother cooks, a brother waits, a sister handles the bar. On summer afternoons, pensioners, eclectics, and the homeless collect in the central square, la Plaça del Poeta Boscà, while the younger generation play ping-pong and drink from beer cans. None of the people I spoke to planned to leave.

TOP 10 MOST EXPENSIVE NEIGHBOURHOODS

RENT (€/m2)

AVERAGE SIZE (m2)

La Barceloneta

16.33

Sarrià

14.54

La Vila Olímpica del Poblenou

14.29

Pedralbes

14.15

119

Les Tres Torres

13.97

106

Sant Gervasi - La Bonanova

12.82

Sant Gervasi - Galvany

12.73

100

Sant Pere, Santa Caterina i la Ribera

12.70

Diagonal Mar i el Front Marítim del Poblenou

12.49

El Putxet i el Farró

12.33

77 Source: www.elperiodico.com

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A BACKSTAGE LOOK AT BARCELONA’S ENGLISH THEATRE SCENE. By GeorGe rexSTrew. THE MAIN PLAYERS Escapade Theatre Company

Jocular Theatre Company

Speciality: Dark and thought-provoking theatre with a dose of British humour. Past productions: Alice In Wonderland, Metamorphosis and The Government Inspector. Look out for: 1984 and the Pantomime. www.escapadetheatre.es

Speciality: Mostly comedy, but varies from large-scale musicals to intimate plays. Past productions: The Pillowman, Little Shop of Horrors and The 39 Steps. Look out for: Nick Payne’s Constellations (Autumn 2016). www.joculartheatre.com

Having trained at the prestigious London Drama Centre, artistic director Sue Flack has worked extensively with the BBC, ITV and Channel 4 as both an actress and a presenter. With a particular passion for physical theatre, she co-founded Escapade Theatre Company in London in 1987. However, a strong desire to travel and learn a language saw her move to Barcelona three years later, and an initial six-month stint turned into a permanent stay. “Once you get here, it’s quite difficult to go back,” said Flack. With nine shows under their belt, Escapade have established themselves as one of the city’s leading English theatre companies. Their repertoire runs far and wide, but the central theme of all shows is ‘exposing the pitiful state of humankind’. So whether it’s a cutting criticism of the British class system in Decadence, or a black comedy about old age in Dinner For One, Flack’s productions are dark yet illlluminating.

After graduating with a degree in Maths from New York’s Binghamton University, Joshua Zamrycki felt like doing something a little different, so he decided to move to Spain. Like Flack, his short-term Spanish residency became long-term, and he now describes himself as “happily stuck here”. Zamrycki first became involved in Barcelona’s English theatre scene after spotting a casting call in a 1998 issue of Metropolitan. He founded Jocular Theatre Company in 2003 because he wanted to do something fun. “Nobody was staging the deliciously dark comedies that I really enjoy, so I decided to do them myself.” Seventeen shows later, Zamrycki has well and truly run the theatrical gamut, and remains the company’s director, producer, lighting designer and sound engineer.

Photo by Richard Hadley.

hether it’s the appeal of a Shakespeare soliloquy, a rousing musical number or simply tucking into a miniature pot of icecream at the interval, there’s nothing quite like a good trip to the theatre. From revamped classics and original writing to improvised comedy players and education facilitators, there’s plenty to see on Barcelona’s English theatre circuit. This month, we go behind the scenes to speak with some of its biggest characters.

Jocular Theatre Company’s 2014 production of The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee.

THEATRE IN EDUCATION Theatre in Education (TIE) uses interactive theatre and drama practices to help aid the educational process. Common characteristics include an important moral message, a small cast and some audience interaction. While Escapade Theatre Company is more artistically fulfilling for director Sue Flack, she also manages IPA Productions—a theatre-ineducation company that promotes Englishlanguage learning across Spain. Since 1997, IPA have performed over 4,000 plays for more than 150,000 students. IPA Productions www.ipaproductions.com Blue Mango Theatre www.bluemangotheatre.com Look Out! Theatre Company www.lookoutcompany.com The Tale Teller www.thetaleteller.com

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Photo by Richard Hadley.

Raising the Curtain

BEHIND THE SCENES

Speciality: Short, thematic and originallywritten productions. Past productions: Bonkers, Sex and Death. Look out for: Shame (see p.24). www.projectbtheatre.com

Despite the city’s huge English-speaking community, the main issue for Barcelona’s theatremakers is the inevitable struggle to attract audience members. “You have to be realistic,” explained Jocular’s Zamrycki, who typically stages two productions a year. “It’s expensive to put on a show, especially having to rent theatres.” So how can this problem be resolved? “It depends on the priorities and ambition of the theatre company. There’s an enormous market out there, but I don’t want to put the enjoyment that I get from this in jeopardy by making audience numbers the primary focus.” In the past, professional Catalan theatres have been notoriously reluctant to accommodate English-language productions. However, improved relations with the local theatre circuit has offered a potential breakthrough in filling empty seats, with benefits including wider publicity and production assistance. Escapade’s 2015 production of Diary of a Scoundrel in Teatre Versus was so well-received that the run was extended by a week. “The venue were suddenly much more enthusiastic after seeing our success,” said Flack, who is particularly determined to reach out to locals. “We chose Alice In Wonderland as our latest show because it is a universal story, and we even projected Catalan subtitles to make it as accessible as possible.” “If you’re an actor who wants to be on Broadway or the West End, you’re not going to be living in Barcelona,” said Zamrycki. “So if you live here and you love theatre, then any chance to perform is a gift.” That’s not to say that the talent pool is dry, though. Whilst some actors in Barcelona teach English alongside in order to survive, there are many other offstage performing opportunities, including work in voiceovers, commercials and dubbing. For directors, however, casting a show can prove problematic. “Many shows cater to a specific cast,” said Jocular’s founder. “And with many actors coming and going, it’s sometimes a roll of the dice.” Zamrycki never pre-casts his shows, however, despite casting a number of “repeat offenders” over the years, and auditions are open to anyone, from locals and foreign residents to year abroad students. “Whether it’s professional theatre companies or groups who simply want to have fun, Barcelona’s English theatre scene is driven by English-speaking people who take an interest in drama and get together to put on plays,” explained Flack. And it’s as simple as that. BIG’s Levin describes the English theatre circuit as a “community”, a notion echoed by his peers at Jocular and Escapade. “It’s a support network— we always try to share our calendars and attend each other’s shows,” revealed Levin. So is there scope for this community to continue growing? With its theatremakers as ambitious as ever, alongside the increasing exposure to a wider audience, it certainly seems that way.

Tremayne Theatre Company Speciality: New writing that covers a slew of themes. Past productions: Madness Sweet Madness and Marie’s Crisis Café. Look out for: Agent P and Thelma and Louise—and Karen. www.tremaynetheatre.com Photo by Richard Hadley.

Barcelona Improv Group (BIG) Speciality: Improvised comedy. Past productions: BIG Leap and BIG’s Murder Mystery. Look out for: The real Housewives of Barcelona (June), BIG’s Season Finale (July) and weekly workshops. www.barcelonaimprovgroup.com

Photo by Olivier Valiente.

y’s 2014 Annual ng Bee.

ProjectB Theatre

Hailing from a little corner of the Rocky Mountains, Noah Levin was first introduced to improv while playing drama games at summer camp. After majoring in theatre some years later at the University of California, he went backpacking through Europe. Levin loved Barcelona so much that he returned shortly afterwards for an intended six-week spell, but he’s still here nearly five years later. Levin’s role at Barcelona Improv Group ranges from co-director and teacher to accountant and social media manager. The 11-person troupe perform monthly comedy shows at Poble Sec’s Tinta Roja theatre and run weekly Sunday workshops, which are open to everyone. “Improv is such a transferrable skill,” said Levin. “The two most basic rules are to listen and react, which has become something of a lost art in this modern Facebook era.”

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PERFORMING ARTS FESTIVALS Here’s how to get involved in some of this year’s most exciting theatre festivals...

GREC FESTIVAL What is it? An international theatre, dance, music and circus festival. Founded: 1976. When: July 1st-31st. Where: Various theatres in Barcelona, including Teatre Grec, Teatre Lliure and Mercat de les Flors. What to expect: Over 100 shows, including an outdoor Shakespeare performance. lameva.barcelona.cat/grec FIRA DE TÀRREGA What is it? A street theatre festival. Founded: 1981. When: September 8th-11th. Where: Tàrrega, Lleida. What to expect: A catalogue of unique theatrical styles and performances, and a lot of time spent outdoors! www.firatarrega.cat TEMPORADA ALTA What is it? A performing arts festival showcasing both fresh talent and major international acts. Founded: 1992. When: September to November. Where: Girona and Salt. What to expect: An award-winning adaptation of Sarah Kane’s 4.48 Psychosis. www.temporada-alta.net THE BIG IF What is it? An improvised comedy and theatre festival. Founded: 2013. When: November 2nd-5th. Where: The Centre Artesà Tradicionarius in Gràcia, Barcelona. What to expect: Workshops and performances from a worldwide community of improvisers. www.barcelonaimprovfestival.com

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WHAT’S ON

MUSIC CONCERT LISTINGS 1st-5th. Primavera Sound Festival 2016 Parc del Fòrum. Plaça del Fòrum 1. 2nd. Haken Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 3rd. Manuel Lombo. BARTS. Paral·lel 62. 5th. Il Divo Auditori Fòrum. Plaça del Fòrum 1. 10th. 5 Seconds of Summer Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7. 11th. We Are Scientists Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 11th. The Cranberries Jardins de Pedralbes. Diagonal 686. 16th-18th. Sónar Fira Gran Via & Fira Montjuïc. 18th. Simian Mobile Disco Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 18th. Kevin Saunderson Up & Down. Dr. Marañón 17.

BURN OUT OR FADE AWAY?

NEIL YOUNG. POBLE ESPANYOL. FRANCESC FERRER I GUARDIA 13. JUNE 20TH. This June, Poble Espanyol will be taking a break from its usual DJ-filled lineup to welcome Canadian folk legend Neil Young, promoting his latest album, The Monsanto Years (2015), which broaches topics such as environmental issues and the plight of the farmer in today’s capitalist society. Despite bad reviews following his 2013 European tour, which accused Young of being self-indulgent, playing long guitar jams and few classic tunes, he’s back—this time accompanied by California-based rock band Promise of the Real, whose lineup includes Lukas and Micah Nelson, sons of country legend Willie Nelson. The North American leg of the ‘Rebel Content Tour’ saw Young and his entourage play old classics including ‘Alabama’, ‘Old Man’ and ‘Harvest Moon’, as well as some covers. It’s hard to predict what Young has up his sleeve, but with tickets priced between €80 and €290 it will hopefully be more crowd-pleasing than his last tour.

19th. Cor Infantil de l’Orfeó Català Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 19th. Walk Off The Earth Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 19th. Chris Brown Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7. 20th. Neil Young + Promise of the Real Poble Espanyol. Francesc Ferrer i Guardia 13. 21st. The London Souls Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 22nd. Matt Simons Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 22nd. Pentatonix Sant Jordi Club. Passeig Olímpic 5-7. 24th. Little Mix Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 26th. The Lumineers Jardins de Pedralbes. Diagonal 686. 28th. El Gusto Es Nuestro Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7. 29th. Tom Jones Jardins de Pedralbes. Diagonal 686. 30th. Jeremih Club Catwalk. Ramón Trias Fargas 2-4.

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LATINO LOVERS

IL DIVO. AUDITORI FÒRUM. PLAÇA DEL FÒRUM 1. JUNE 5TH. Following the release of their seventh studio album, Il Divo are coming to Barcelona’s Auditori del Fòrum with their unique brand of classical crossover music (a mix of classical, pop, latin and opera). As if their good looks weren’t enough, the multilingual quartet, hailing from the US, Switzerland, Spain and France, sing only in Spanish on their latest album, moving away from their usual choice of Italian and English. Entitled Amor & Pasión (2015), it is filled with some seriously suave Spanish, Cuban and Mexican sounds, along with some Julio Iglesias and Gloria Estefan covers. www.ccib.es

FOR MORE MUSIC EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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SOUND EXPERIMENT

WE ARE SCIENTISTS. RAZZMATAZZ. PAMPLONA 88. JUNE 11TH. Formed in California, this Brooklyn-based indie band have mainly found success in the UK, with their electro-pop style appealing more to British ears than those of their fellow Americans. With the release of their new album, Helter Seltzer (2016), Keith Murray (vocals) and Chris Cain (bass) come to Razzmatazz this June, as one of a select few European dates. The tour so far has been filled with bespoke stage sets, new and old tunes, and the energetic presence that the duo are known for. The new album boasts some brilliant new hits bound to be included in many a summer playlist. www.salarazzmatazz.com

MIXING IT UP

LITTLE MIX. RAZZMATAZZ. PAMPLONA 88. JUNE 24TH. Pop tunes, sequined costumes and Spice Girls covers—no, it’s not another Barcelona hen party—it’s The X Factor winners Little Mix. Following Il Divo, Barcelona is in for a second helping of Simon Cowell’s creations, albeit aimed at a slightly different audience. Considered one of the UK’s leading girl groups, pop sensations Little Mix will take to the stage at Razzmatazz to remind us why they won The X Factor and to give fans a chance to hear live renditions from their best-selling album, Get Weird (2015). Despite criticism and constant press comparison to Girls Aloud, Little Mix have managed to hold their own, with their latest album hitting the number one spot in Ireland and number two in the UK. Get Weird contains their usual catchy melodies, but this time the band have mixed it up a little, experimenting with hip-hop beats and trap influences. Fans are set for a truly pop-filled night, with a bit of weirdness thrown in for good measure. www.salarazzmatazz.com

N.COM

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WHAT’S ON

ART OPENINGS FUNDACIÓ ANTONI TÀPIES Harun Farocki. Empathy This exhibition brings together the films and art installations of German filmmaker, artist and activist, Harun Farocki. It focuses on his militant films of the Sixties and explores the notion of empathy in the world of capitalism. Opening June 2nd. Aragó 255. MUSEU PICASSO Ceramics at the Museu Picasso In collaboration with the 47th Congress of the International Ceramic Society, which takes place in Barcelona in September, this exhibition showcases photographs of ceramic works by Picasso. Opening June 23rd. Montcada 15-23. MACBA MACBA Collection 2016 Hinting at what artistic lines of inquiry lie ahead in the coming year, MACBA reveals the latest new additions to its permanent collection. Opening June 18th. Plaça dels Àngels 1. LAST CHANCE

RELIGIOUS REBIRTH

EL DIVINO MORALES. MNAC. PALAU NACIONAL. JUNE 17TH-SEPTEMBER 25TH. The rebirth of Christianity during the Renaissance was materialised through religious institutions, described in literature and immortalised by painting. For the 16thcentury Spanish painter, Luis de Morales, painting was the medium with which he encapsulated the spiritual feelings during the Counter-Reformation’s religious revamp. He was known as ‘El Divino Morales’ (‘the divine Morales’) due to his devotional paintings that served as altarpieces and religious artworks for churches, monasteries and palaces. His work demonstrates realism with meticulous attention to detail, which itself reflects the religious enthusiasm during the period. This collection of 54 paintings, which includes Morales’s most famous piece, Virgin of the Bird (1546), are displayed at the MNAC and are united by their melancholic scenes. Taking inspiration from the work of Leonardo da Vinci, the paintings lack background scenery and focus on the detailed portraits of key religious figures. They also reveal an insight into 16th-century Renaissance religious iconography that is both emotionally charged and hauntingly revitalising. www.museunacional.cat

LA CAPELLA Background Immunity In a world where material wealth and progress are at the forefront of society, La Capella’s latest exhibition explores how possessions, technology and worth interact. Until June 12th. Hospital 56. MACBA I Will Fear No Evil Expect skateboards made from skin and animal organs hanging amongst bicycles at this exhibition, which features the works of multimedia artist José Antonio HernándezDiez. Until June 26th. Plaça dels Àngels 1. CAIXAFORUM Iconoclastic gestures. Heterodox images Politics and religion are at the centre of this CaixaForum exhibition, which attempts to deconstruct and demystify contemporary art in relation to religious iconography. Until June 5th. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8. Impresionistas y modernos Modern masterpieces from the Phillips Collection guide the viewer through 200 years of art history, from Romanticism to Abstract Expressionism. Until June 19th. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8. LAS ARENAS The Art of the Brick The world’s largest display of Lego art comes to Barcelona, as visionary creative Nathan Sawaya presents his unique exhibition. Until June 12th. Gran Via de Les Corts Catalanes 373-385.

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AN UNDEVELOPED TALENT

VIVIAN MAIER, IN HER OWN HANDS. FOTO COLECTÀNIA. JULIÁN ROMEA 6. JUNE 6TH-SEPTEMBER 11TH. John Maloof didn’t know the treasures he was to find when, in 2007, he purchased a storage unit that had defaulted on its payments. The unit was crammed with undeveloped film belonging to Vivian Maier, an enigmatic photographer born in New York in 1926, whose photographs of street scenes capture the essence of 20th-century America. Maier moved to Chicago in 1956 to work as a nanny. She had her own bathroom, which she converted into a dark room to develop her prints. However, when the children grew up, she had to move on. As she moved from family to family, she was forced to abandon developing her work and her collection of undeveloped film began to pile up. During later life she became destitute, and was living on the streets until the grown-up children of a family she had worked for bought her a flat. She died in 2009 without ever seeing her insightful and thought-provoking images developed. Opening on June 6th, Foto Colectània will exhibit 100 of her photographs. www.colectania.es

FOR MORE ART EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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HUB OF INNOVATION

BARCELONA DESIGN WEEK & FADFEST. DISSENY HUB BARCELONA. PLAÇA DE LES GLÒRIES CATALANES 37-38. JUNE 2ND-12TH. This month, there are plenty of opportunities to delve into the world of design, as Barcelona Design Week and FADfest take place in and around the Disseny Hub Barcelona. Celebrating its 11th edition this year, BDW invites professionals, creative businesses and members of the public to learn about all the latest design trends from June 2nd-12th. There are over 70 activities on offer, including workshops, exhibitions, talks, debates, tours, competitions and networking events. Speakers include WeTransfer’s creative director, Laszlito Kovacs, as well as New York Times journalist Alice Rawsthorn. www.barcelonadesignweek.com Aiming to cement Barcelona’s international position as a world capital of design and innovation, FADfest runs parallel to BDW from June 6th12th. Fostering Arts and Design (FAD) is a non-profit association that promotes design and architecture across Spain’s economical, cultural and social spheres. Their annual festival, FADfest, aims to bring design closer to the people. Last year’s activities included a workshop on smartphone sketching and a talk on IKEA classicism, while this year’s programme features a ‘Best Design of the Year’ exhibition. www.fadfest.cat

SCRATCHING THE SURFACE

156 ENGRAVINGS. MUSEU PICASSO. MONTCADA 15-23. UNTIL SEPTEMBER 4TH. Towards the end of his life, Picasso returned to the practice of engraving on metal and, from 1963 to 1972, he created a total of 520 works using this method. These works can be split into two groups, the second of which is currently on display at the Picasso Museum. Created between October 1968 and March 1972, the engravings explore the theme of eroticism, showing scenes of a fun, joyful and idle world, yet with an undercurrent of frustrated desire. Picasso makes abundant references to masters of the art world in these works, alluding to Rembrandt, Velázquez, Goya, Ingres, Delacroix, Manet and, in particular, Degas.

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WHAT’S ON

MISC. SHAME ON YOU!

SHAME. LA TINTA ROJA. CREU DELS MOLERS 17. JUNE 11TH-19TH. The ProjectB Theatre group aim to entertain, enrich and educate through thematic theatrical productions, providing alternative perspectives on the world we live in. Working alongside New York’s Love Yourself Project—an organisation promoting selfesteem and self-acceptance—this month’s production, Shame, offers six short plays exploring all things shameful about society. “There is a lot to be said about this particular theme, and our interpretations range from light-hearted to thought-provoking to downright naughty,” revealed ProjectB’s Dan Jacobs. The company celebrate their fifth anniversary this year, and all their shows are original productions, with previous titles including Bonkers, Sex and Death. “We enjoy engaging in themes that make people think by challenging the norm and reflecting on issues facing the everyday world,” explained Jacobs. Shame runs from June 11th-19th at Poble Sec’s intimate Tinta Roja theatre, with a preview performance in Sitges on June 4th. www.projectbtheatre.com

SPICE UP YOUR LIFE

BURLESQUE FESTIVAL BARCELONA. EL MOLINO. VILA I VILÀ 99. JUNE 1ST-12TH. Burlesque originally existed as a theatrical form based on comedy, and has only adopted its signature erotic tone over the last century. Today, it is risqué, decadent and entertaining, and Barcelona’s Burlesque Festival has become one of the top events of its kind since its inception six years ago. With its intimate proscenium-arch stage and seductive swathes of red, Poble Sec’s El Molino is the perfect setting to welcome a special troupe of performers for some naughty fun from June 1st-12th. Hosted by the glamorous Merche Mar, this year’s festival will be headlined by Italian sensation Miss Scarlett Martini, who has been ranked as one of the top burlesque performers in Europe, and also starred in the 2012 film, Burlesque Assassins. With raunchy routines and extravagant costumes guaranteed, indulge in an evening of seductive eroticism. www.elmolinobcn.com

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SNAP HAPPY

UTOPIA PHOTO MARKET. UTOPIA 126. CRISTÓBAL DE MOURA 126. JUNE 10TH-12TH. In our modern age of Instagram and Snapchat, the value of good oldfashioned photography is starting to fade, but this market, which acts as a kind of pop-up gallery, is bringing it back. Whether you’re a pro or a novice behind the lens, the Utopia Photo Market allows you to feed your curiosity and step into the captivating world of photography. You can buy photographs directly from a select group of high-profile photographers who will be selling their works at the market, including the Catalan winner of the 2012 World Press Photo contest, Samuel Aranda. The event hosts various activities, including the opportunity to have your digital portrait created by the iconic Spanish artist and designer, Javier Mariscal, whose body of work ranges from Barcelona’s Gambrinus sculpture, to set design for Big Brother and Oscar-nominated film, Chico and Rita (2010). There will also be a handson workshop, led by Wet Plate Studio, looking at how analogue cameras work and the 19th-century collodion process. Photo auctions, exchanges and plenty more surprises are to be expected. Places are limited for some activities, so keep an eye on the website for the latest updates. www.utopiaphotomarket.com

ORGANIC SOUNDS

BONA NIT BARCELONA. POBLE ESPANYOL. FRANCESC FERRER I GUARDIA 13. JUNE 11TH. Barcelona’s most eco-friendly festival returns to Poble Espanyol for its fourth edition. The festival combines healthy, organic food, a market of fair-trade, local products, a chilled ambience and a lively lineup guaranteed to get everyone up and dancing. This year, the oneday festival is headlined by British pop singer-songwriter Mika, who released his fourth studio album, No Place in Heaven, in June 2015. It has been described as a drastic shift in his musical style, leaning towards a more mature sound that takes its inspiration from Sixties pop music. Molotov Jukebox, whose lead singer, Natalia Tena, played Nymphadora Tonks in the Harry Potter film series and Osha in Game of Thrones, also bring their jazzy, gypsy sounds to the festival. The night will be rounded off with the hip-hop, breakbeat tunes of Two Smoking Fellaz. Acció, Brika and Caloncho are also set to perform. Tickets range from €30 to €45. www.bonanitbarcelona.es

FOR MORE EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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DESTRUCTION DERBY

MONSTER JAM. ESTADI OLÍMPIC LLUÍS COMPANYS. PASSEIG OLÍMPIC 15-17. JUNE 4TH. Imagine trying to jump a four-tonne truck 30 feet in the air, land gracefully and possibly crush a couple of cars in the process. This kind of controlled chaos takes a lot of skill, and drivers have to know their trucks inside out, with a healthy respect for the 1,500 or so horsepower that lurks within the beast. Monster Jam is the world’s largest monster truck tour, offering up some of the sport’s biggest names. Originating in the USA, these four-wheeled monsters cross the Atlantic on June 4th for an evening of racing, freestyle and pit partying at Montjuïc’s Olympic Stadium. This month’s lineup includes the raging El Toro, the devilish El Diablo and an engine-powered version of everyone’s favourite mystery-solving canine, Scooby-Doo. Friends and families alike can enjoy thrilling races and recordbreaking stunts, as well as the pit party, which gives spectators the chance to meet the drivers and see the trucks up close and personal. www.monsterjam.es

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PURCELL: THE FAIRY QUEEN Purcell’s opera inspired by Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream. 8.30pm. L’Auditori.

WAR, EXILE AND FREEDOM OF SPEECH A lecture led by Iraqi-born film director Hassam Blasim. 6.30pm.

080 FASHION WEEK (26TH-1ST)

TUE SDAY

MOND AY

TASTE ALL THOSE (11TH & 12TH)

PRIMAVERA SOUND Barcelona’s hottest music festival kicks off the summer season. Parc del Fòrum. Plaça del Fòrum 1. Until 4th.

I CAPULETI E I MONTECCHI The romantic love story as told in Bellini’s gripping opera. 8pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.

AN EVENING WITH DON DELILLO An opportunity to listen to one of the greatest post-modernist writers of English-language novels.

Diagonal 547.

BARCELONA DESIGN WEEK With the slogan ‘design is future’, over 70 activities bring design and business together this week. Disseny Hub. Plaça de les Glòries Catalanes 37. Until 12th.

VI BARCELONA BURLESQUE FESTIVAL Lady Molino leads the sixth edition of this erotic festival, which brings us plenty of seduction. El Molino. Vila i Vilà 99. Until 12th.

T HURSDAY

WED NE SDAY

POWERADE BARCELONA Take part in this bike race that covers over 700 kilometres from Barcelona to San Sebastián.

THE BOY MARKET In collaboration with Barcelona City FM Radio, this market sells men’s and unisex clothing. 12pm.

TASTE ALL THOSE Seasonal produce is the focus at the summer edition of this market. Universitat de Barcelona.

IL DIVO This multi-national male quartet have pioneered the modern genre of operatic pop. 10pm. Auditori Fòrum. Parc del Fòrum.

MONSTER JAM Expect racing and freestyling at this monster truck sporting event. 6pm. Estadi Olímpic Lluís Companys. Passeig Olímpic 17-19. MOTOGP CATALUNYA The world championships of motorbike racing come to Montmeló. Circuit de BarcelonaCatalunya. Camí Mas Moreneta. Until 5th.

MEDIEVAL ARCHERY An archery competiiton that involves historical dress-up and re-enactments. 9am. Castell de Montjuïc.

SUN DAY

LES MILLS LIVE Reebok and Les Mills team up to bring you a fitness party that’s touring the world. 10.30am. Sant Jordi Club. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

SAT URDAY

LOOP FAIR A collective project that showcases video art and its impact on cinema. Various locations. Until 4th.

FRIDAY

WHAT'S ON JUNE 2016

WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT OUR WEBSITE

Photo by Germán Parga

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15 GUIRI BUSINESS DRINKS Networking event aimed at foreign residents. 7pm. Quinto Quinta. Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 373. ROZALÉN The singer-songwriter is joined by a band that plays the accordion and ukulele. 9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

ZAKK WYLDE The former guitarist for Ozzy Osbourne brings his pioneering heavy metal sound to Barcelona. 9pm. Paral·lel 62. BARTS.

FESTIVAL JARDIN PEDRABLES From The Lumineers to Joan Baez, this open-air music festival boasts an impressive lineup. Various dates. Jardin de Pedralbes. Diagonal 686. Until July 16th.

EL GUSTO ES NUESTRO The Spanish Nineties group reform for a 20th-anniversary tour. 9pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

PRIDE BARCELONA From foam parties to Holi parades, the celebration of the LGBT community is bigger than ever. Barcelona City Centre. Until July 9th.

080 BARCELONA FASHION WEEK Embrace your inner fashionista at the city’s most stylish event of the season. INEFC. Estadi 12-22. Until July 1st.

CULTURNAUTES 2016 A series of workshops that offer a ‘laboratory of creation’ for children, in association with the Making Africa exhibition. CCCB. Montalegre 5. Until July 29th.

VN-BCN 2016 An ecological wine festival for professionals. 12pm. Museu Marítim. Av. de les Drassanes.

THE LONDON SOULS This New York duo’s unique sound reinterprets classic rock. 9pm. Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547.

NEIL YOUNG + PROMISE OF THE REAL The Canadian singer and American rock band join forces to perform material from their latest album. 9pm. Poble Espanyol. Francesc Ferrer i Guardia 13.

DONA NO REEDUCABLE A Catalan monologue by Stefano Massini, based on the assassination of a Russian journalist. Teatre Lliure. Plaça de Margarida Xirgu 1. 15th-22nd.

VIDA FESTIVAL (30TH-3RD)

JOSÉ LUIS PERALES Lyrics of love are found throughout this Spanish singersongwriter’s music. 9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

BEST DESIGN OF THE YEAR All projects exhibited have been presented prizes by FAD. Museu del Disseny. Plaça de les Glòries Catalanes 37. Until October 30th.

FADFEST This festival celebrates industrial, graphic and interior design, architecture, fashion and crafts. Various locations. Until 12th.

TOM JONES It’s not unusual to want to see the Welsh superstar perform live. 10pm. Jardins Palau Reial Pedralbes. Diagonal 686.

ELS QUATRE GATS Chinese shadow drawings are added to the museum’s collection of caricatures. MNAC. Parc de Montjuïc. Until October 31st.

VIDA FESTIVAL In a woodland setting, the lineup of this festival includes Wilco and UMO. La Masia d’en Cabanyes. Vilanova i la Geltrú. Until July 3rd.

TOP GIRLS This British play by feminist Caryl Churchill is translated into Catalan. 8.30pm. Teatre Akademia. Buenos Aires 47. Until July 17th.

MATT SIMONS This singer-songwriter plays saxophone and includes jazz undertones in his pop-rock sound. 9pm. Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547.

Join in the celebrations, bonfires and fireworks to celebrate Saint John’s Eve and the summer solstice. 6pm. Various locations.

SANT JOAN

SÓNAR There’s something for everyone at this electronic and advanced music festival. Fira Gran Via & Fira Montjuic. 16th-18th.

EL DIVINO MORALES These paintings by Luis de Morales demonstrate 16thcentury religious iconography. MNAC. Parc de Montjuïc. Until September 25th.

TOM JONES (29TH)

LA CERAMICA An exhibition in collaboration with the 47th Congress of the International Ceramic Society. Museu Picasso. Montcada 15-23. Until October 23rd.

PENTATONIX With over 10 million online subscribers and two Grammys to their name, this a cappella group are set to impress. 9pm. Sant Jordi Club. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

AN EVENING WITH DON DELILLO An opportunity to listen to one of the greatest post-modernist writers of English-language novels. 7pm. CCCB. Montalegre 5.

PURCELL: THE FAIRY QUEEN Purcell’s opera inspired by Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream. 8.30pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.

WAR, EXILE AND FREEDOM OF SPEECH A lecture led by Iraqi-born film director Hassam Blasim. 6.30pm. CCCB. Montalegre 5.

ALL BY MYSELF A theatre-dance performance that questions the importance we place on money and material things. 9pm. Hiroshima Theatre. 24th-26th.

LITTLE MIX The X Factor winners have three platinum albums to their name. 9pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

SECRETSUNDAZE London’s infamous Sunday daytime party comes to Barcelona to coincide with Sónar. 2pm. Parc del Fòrum. Plaça del Fòrum 1.

NOCHES DE VERANO A unique opportunity to enjoy La Pedrera by night with live jazz performances. 8.30pm. La Pedrera. Provença 261-265.

BARCELONA IMPROV GROUP Based on audience suggestions, The Real Housewives of Barcelona promises a night of hilarity. 8.30pm. La Tinta Roja. Creu dels Molers 17.

POWERADE BARCELONA Take part in this bike race that covers over 700 kilometres from Barcelona to San Sebastián. 10th-12th.

SON DE LA RAMBLA Authentic Cuban music from this eight-piece band. 11pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

ATREYU Expect loud, head-banging beats as this American metalcore quintet up the ante. 9.30pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

PENTATONIX (22ND)

FULL MOON PARTY A night-time party on the beach with music, dancing and bonfire celebrations. 11pm. Platja de la Mar Bella. Litoral 104.

MINIGREC It’s the prelude to the international theatre, dance and music festival, El Grec. 6pm. Teatre Grec. Passatge Martras 29.

CHRIS BROWN Turn up the music as the American R&B sensation and Grammy award-winner comes to Barcelona. 9pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

LA BOHÈME An opera by Puccini which centres on youth, love and tragedy in Paris. Gran Teatre del Liceu. Las Ramblas 51-59. Various dates.

POETRY SLAM 2016 Discover the latest national and international talents on the urban poetry scene. 8pm. CCCB. Montalegre 5. THE SMARTPHONE ORCHESTRA Everyone’s smartphone becomes an instrument at this collaborative performance. 3.45pm. Fira Montjuïc. Av. Reina Maria Cristina.

UTOPIA PHOTO MARKET A photo market with stalls, activities and photobooths. 12pm. Utopía 126. Cristóbal de Moura 126. 10th-12th.

TASTE ALL THOSE Seasonal produce is the focus at the summer edition of this market. Universitat de Barcelona. Balmes/Gran Via. 11th & 12th

WE ARE SCIENTISTS This indie duo recently released their fifth studio album, Helter Seltzer (2016). 1am. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

THE BOY MARKET In collaboration with Barcelona City FM Radio, this market sells men’s and unisex clothing. 12pm. Corretger5 Gallery. Corretger 5.

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Child-friendly HANGOUTS

PARENTING IS CHILD'S PLAY AT THESE FAMILY-ORIENTED PLACES.

aving a social life with young children in tow can be a daunting task. Luckily, Barcelona is home to lots of places that strive to keep their younger clients happy too. And, while the kids get toys, high-chairs and their own play space, you get a chance to sit back, eat some tasty food and relax. IDEAL (Poblenou) Marià Aguiló 99 This narrow cafe with fresh, inviting decor is located on one of Poblenou’s most familyfriendly streets. During the day, it’s popular with parents enjoying some downtime while the little ones play with toys or let off some steam in the patio at the back. Staff are friendly and they serve up organic food, with several gluten-free options available. The weekday €8 vegetarian menu is posted on their Facebook page. CAFE GODOT (Gràcia) Sant Domènec 19 www.cafegodot.com Stylish but informal, this child-friendly bistrot on Sant Domenec serves brunch, lunch and dinner. Tuck into your eggs Benedict or jam and scones while the kids play in the cheerful children’s corner equipped with toys and a blackboard. Great service, quality produce and some original touches on the menu make this a family favourite. FAMILY ROOM (Les Corts) Joan Gamper 13 www.familyroomcafe.com Owner, Mar, wanted to create a space where every member of the family feels at home. And this lovely space, with its creative eye for pretty details, exudes a healthy, relaxed vibe. Kids get

their own corner with a little playhouse, giant blackboard and lots of toys. The menu offers salads, torrades (Catalan toast with tasty toppings) and a few special dishes all made with quality local produce. BAR DEL CONVENT (Born) Comerç 36/Plaça de l'Acadèmia www.bardelconvent.com This spacious, easygoing cafe is housed in the former Sant Agustí convent. The best thing about a stop here is the amount of space available for energetic children. There's a play corner inside and a huge, enclosed patio outside. Outdoor seating means you can have your coffee or lunch al fresco while keeping an eye on the little ones. The cafe is self-service and offers simple, healthy food.

Family Room

PUDDING (Eixample) Pau Claris 90 You know this place is going to be fun as soon as you walk through the door. Upstairs, Pudding has a lovely fairground feel to it, with red-andwhite striped ceiling fabric, twinkly lights and bright, comfy furniture. Venture down the stairs at the back and you’ll find giant painted mushrooms, a huge table, mismatched coloured chairs and dangling chandeliers. Settle in, order your coffee and let the kids run and play. CONTACACAU (Eixample) Londres 70 www.contacacau.com A 'family concept store', Contacacau will let you eat in peace while the younger members of the family play in the well-equipped kids’ zone. Located near Plaça de Francesc Macià, this bright and spacious place offers healthy Catalan cuisine, plus not-so-healthy but downright delicious Italian ice-cream. Perfect for keeping mum and dad happy.

Pudding

Contacacau

FAMILY RESOURCES IN BARCELONA kidsinbarcelona.com (English) mammaproof.com (Spanish) facebook.com/MamAmigasBarcelona (English) Meetup.com has several groups for parents

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ANIMAL

magic

ANIMAL INSTINCTS ARE PROVING USEFUL IN MANY FIELDS, AS COLLABORATION WITH HUMANS MOVES INTO A NEW ERA. BY LOUISE JOHNSON. Photo courtesy of CTAC

rom work and transport to recreation and companionship, animals have contributed so much to our lives over the centuries, and indeed since the beginning of mankind. In recent years, new kinds of animal assistance have been explored, and Barcelona is taking an active role in promoting these developments.

MAN’S BEST FRIEND Fifteen years ago, Eva Domenec’s life changed in many ways when her daughter, Monica, was born with a rare genetic disorder, Prader-Willi syndrome—a condition characterised by various physical, mental and behavioural problems, including an urge to eat too much. One of the most unexpected changes came when she noticed how well Monica responded to contact with the family’s pet dogs, who boosted her confidence and helped her to exercise more. “We thought the relationship was so amazing that it could be used to help other people,” explained Domenec, director of the Dog-Assisted Therapy Centre (or Centre de Teràpies Assistides amb Cans—CTAC). With her daughter’s positive experience fresh in their minds, Domenec, together with Francesc Ristol, CEO of CTAC, started using their dogs in therapy sessions. They worked alongside a range of health experts, including nurses, psychologists, psychiatrists and physiotherapists, at the hospital of Sant Joan de Deu to develop the idea further. “Dogs add a new dimension to the patient’s treatment,” said Domenec. “They encourage social activity—it’s magical how it works.” Animal-assisted therapy (AAT) is a relatively new field that uses animals to improve a patient’s social, emotional or cognitive functioning, and is used to treat many conditions, including autism, attention deficit disorder (ADD), depression and physical disability. Domenec, who was studying medicine before Monica was born, exudes passion for her work. Today, as well as carrying out dog-assisted

therapy, she trains dogs (Golden Labradors and King Charles Spaniels are often the most receptive breeds) and new dog handlers, and has written a book on the subject, Animal Assisted Therapy: Techniques and Exercices for Dog Assisted Interventions (2012). In addition, the CTAC trains and provides home visits to assistance dogs (e.g. hearing and guide dogs), and it runs a year-long Master’s programme accredited by the University of Barcelona. “Our daughter has given us a lot of things, including love and tears,” said Domenec. “But she has also opened our eyes to animal-assisted therapy, which has helped improve her health dramatically, and given me a new direction in life.” ALPHA DOG Dogs are put to work in a totally different way through a unique course at the Universitat Autònoma de Barcelona (UAB). The Graduate Diploma in ‘Canine Unit Instruction: Assistance Dogs’ trains students to work with their fourlegged friends, not only in the therapeutic field, but also in cutting-edge areas such as search, security and biodetection. The latter refers to dogs sniffing out disease, pests and bacteria (and even bed bugs), thanks to their incredible sense of smell. Marga Macias Masana, coordinator of the course, has been working with dogs for over 30 years. One of her early commissions was to be in charge of the security dogs at the Barcelona Olympics in 1992. The first part of the UAB course involves intensive hands-on learning to become a dog

trainer. Then, after a period of general study, students specialise in a chosen area, such as therapy or explosives and security. Students come from diverse backgrounds (the course counts vets, lawyers and sportsmen among its alumni), but they all share a desire to change lives. Masana’s love of dogs and her enthusiasm for expanding their use into challenging new environments is evident: “The world is changing and it’s important to identify the various environments in which dogs can assist us,” she said. HORSE POWER Plodding along on horseback may seem like a passive activity, but there is actually a lot more to it. The unique rhythm of the horse has been used in recent years to help people with a wide range of conditions, from cerebral palsy and brain damage to Down’s Syndrome and autism. It is

Monica with the family dog, Kiwi

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believed that horses can also help those with psychological problems, such as addiction and depression. Physiotherapist Sara Andres works at the Centre d’Equitació Poni Club Catalunya—a beautiful riding school situated in the Collserola Natural Park. Andres is the school’s hippotherapist. Hippotherapy literally means ‘treatment with the help of the horse’, which comes from the Greek word ‘hippo’, meaning horse, and it refers to therapy that utilises equine movement. Although horses have assisted humans in many ways for thousands of years, this specific method began in Germany in the Sixties. The main idea behind hippotherapy is that, as the horse rocks and sways, the rider works parts of their body they don’t normally use. In turn, their mobility, balance, muscle tone and strength is improved, which directly benefits their quality of life. Whilst learning to ride and having fun are welcome benefits of hippotherapy, its main aim is to make the rider more independent in their daily life. When used to help mental problems, it is thought that hippotherapy stimulates an area

of the brain important for mood control. Andres recalled a couple of success stories, including a 10-year-old girl, who came from a troubled family background and had suffered physical abuse from her father. After her sessions at the riding school, her psychiatrist saw a marked improvement in her state of mind, and shortly after she was taken off antidepressants. Also struggling was a threeyear-old boy, who was refusing to talk and used his finger to point when he wanted something. On horseback, he was forbidden to point and had to find another way to communicate. After about three months he started to talk, and went from strength to strength thereafter. “The movement of the horse can help with speech stimulation,” revealed Andres. “Horses can motivate us. They can help us to be more positive.” Every week, the Poni Club’s riding instructor Dani Sala and his colleagues teach children with special needs how to ride. A unique bond is often formed between the child and the horse, and Sala believes that children often make quicker progress than they would through more conventional therapy methods.

“The success, the failures, the frustrations of horse riding—they can teach us all about life and how to deal with it,” Sala affirmed. The biophilia hypothesis, presented by American biologist Edward O. Wilson in 1984, suggests that there is an instinctive bond between human beings and other living organisms, which stems from the idea that, for thousands of years, human survival depended on signals from animals to indicate safety or threat. It is thought that if we see animals in a peaceful state, they can trigger feelings of safety, security and wellbeing. AAT takes advantage of this bond and is gaining popularity as well as acceptance in the medical field. One may question, however, whether it is any more beneficial than traditional therapy methods. “There is evidence supporting AAT’s benefits, but it still needs more research,” admitted Domenec. “Unfortunately, this will take money, and the animal-assisted therapy field is currently quite small.” However, with rising demand and a growing variety of applications, Domenec and other advocates stress that AAT is here to stay.

You scratch my back, I’ll scratch yours.

Physical and psychological illnesses are treated at Collserola’s Centre d’Equitació Poni Club Catalunya

Animals assist us in many ways, but what can we do for them? Meet cat behaviourist Jordi Ferres, also known as the ‘Cat Whisperer’, who has spent the last 12 years helping problematic cats. No two days are ever the same, but correct use of the litter tray is the most common reason for a consultation. Cat fights, shyness and stress from being kept indoors 24/7 also feature high on the list. Ferres originally worked with big cats in the UK and South Africa, often entering the animals’ enclosures in order to study their body language at close range. He then applied that knowledge to domestic cats back home in Catalunya. He has gone on to solve many cat behavioural problems, and has made frequent media appearances. A breakthrough can leave owners emotional. “I’ve seen people cry with happiness. Maybe they’ve never been able to stroke their cat and they’ve felt so sad about it, never receiving love,” Ferres said. “Cats are amazing,” he added. “Each cat teaches me something new.”

MORE INFO www.ctac.cat www.uab.cat www.poniclubcatalunya.com www.educadordegats.cat Dogs are taking on challenging new roles with the International Detector Dogs Team (IDDT)

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ADVERTISING FEATURE

How do we prepare our kids for the 21st century?

et’s take a deep breath and face facts. We live in extraordinary times, and providing children with the tools to succeed in today’s fast-paced society is becoming harder than ever. Schools do a ﬁne job on the academic side, but what about preparation for life outside the classroom? At DEC Camp, teaching secondary skills for your kids is our primary objective, and we provide quality training in a fun yet educational environment.

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From Eastern Europe to Barcelona, we’ve been organising educational innovation camps for almost 10 years, and have hosted over 5,000 campers in that time. This year, we’re coming to Vilar Rural de Cardona, which oﬀers breathtaking views of the medieval Castle of Cardona. Facilities include comfortable rooms that sleep 4-6 children, a swimming pool, a football pitch, modern classrooms and even a subterranean salt-mine! For us at DEC Camp, summer camp is much more than a day at the beach or a quest in the city. It presents a unique opportunity to change the world in a short amount of time: to instill conﬁdence, to promote a sense of community and to pursue great ideas in a fun and educational environment. This year, kids of all nationalities will interact with one another, with activities ranging from

At DEC Camp, we create a feeling of community, self-belief and motivation, where “I can’t do this” is transformed into “I want to try this”.

wakeboarding, paddle-surfing and playing football on kayaks, to visiting Cadaques to learn about surrealism, taking English and Spanish lessons, star-gazing under the night sky, clapping along to the rhythm at a Flamenco show, learning how to make paella, taking cool selfies at Montserrat and practising their padel skills. The camp is led entirely in English by trained and qualified staff,

and our diverse programme is sure to leave all campers feeling fulfilled and inspired. All our lessons and activities are structured around the 4C framework—critical thinking, collaboration, communication and creativity—skills that are required to succeed in the 21st century. For example, at DEC Camp, campers don’t just play football, but learn how to cooperate and think outside the box through football. The activity is an instrument in achieving the ultimate goal: to develop skills. It’s a subtle yet significant difference. We change the terrain (uphill football), the scope (not goals, but touches) and the format (3 teams, 4 goalposts). As the saying goes, in order to be successful, you have to discover something you love doing. We certainly have, and we can help our campers to do the same—to experience it, to live it, to be inspired. We love what we do and we’re good at it. Your kids, our campers, will love it too.

Find out more at www.dec.camp

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FASHION

in style

LOOSE-FITTING FLORALS IN BRIGHT COLOURS ARE SHAPING UP TO BE A FASHION MUST-HAVE THIS SUMMER.

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ZARA FLORAL SHIRT €29.95 MANGO FRINGE BAG €5

H&M PALAZZO TROUSERS €14

G-STAR RAW JEANS €99.95

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ESPADRILLES SHOES €168

H&M PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA 9. ZARA PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA 16. G STAR RAW PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA 44. MANGO PORTAL DE L’ÀNGEL 7. ESPADRILLES BARCELONA AVINYÓ 7.

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TRAVEL

Côte Vermeille y Perpignan

Argèles-sur-mer

f Ultrera Castle Massanes Tower

Collioure Fort Saint Elme

Port Vendres

Madeloc Tower

Banyuls-sur-mer

Cerbère

ThiS SMALL coRNER of fRANcE cARRiES pLENTY of cATALAN SpiRiT. BY ROSALIND BOND.

lanning to take a trip up the coast this summer? If you venture north beyond the Costa Brava, you’ll stumble upon the Côte Vermeille (Vermillion Coast). This often overlooked corner of France historically belonged to Catalunya until the 1659 Treaty of the Pyrenees, when Northern Catalunya, which roughly corresponds to the French département of Pyrénées-Orientales, was ceded to the French. But the Catalan spirit lives on—Catalan is spoken by many, the sardana (Catalunya’s national dance) is performed with zeal and the local cuisine has a decidedly Catalan flavour. Often described as the Côte d’Azur without the hefty price tag, this 20-kilometre stretch of coastline boasts its own wine appellation, watersports, nature reserves and a lively artistic past. It is where the Pyrenees meet the glittering Mediterranean, creating pebbly coves and cliffs that offer spectacular views along the craggy coastline. Collioure

CERBÈRE

BANYULS-SUR-MER

With its colourful centre-ville buildings and quaint seafront painted in pastel shades, this picturesque village is the first stop after leaving Spain. The waterfront promenade is lined with cafés and restaurants and leads onto a small, shingly beach.

Banyuls-sur-Mer has grown up around fishing, viticulture and smuggling. The salmon-hued buildings village boasts an award-winning beach and a quaint, rambling old quartier, le Cap d’Osne, rustic and charming with its winding, narrow streets. Among its ancient buildings is the Église Saint-Jean de la Rectorie.

Highlights Cap Cerbère. The rocky headland of Cap Cerbère offers a clifftop viewing point that boasts breathtaking sea views, and is also home to ‘the lighthouse at the end of the world’. Belitres Pass. At the end of the Spanish Civil War, 500,000 refugees flooded over the border via the nearby Belitres Pass. Today, a monument featuring a photo exhibition of the refugees, taken by French-Colombian artist Manuel Moros, stands on the crest of the pass. Former passport control and customs kiosks also stand nearby, eerie and abandoned since the 1995 Schengen Agreement. Dolmens. Evidence of the region’s prehistory can be witnessed in the three dolmens (tombs constructed of two or more upright stones, capped with a large, flat horizontal capstone) situated in the hills behind the village at Coll de la Farella, Coll de les Portes and Coma Estepera. Réserve Naturelle Marine de CerbèreBanyuls-sur-Mer. This marine reserve is popular for snorkelling and diving due to the huge variety of fish that thrive in its protected habitat.

Highlights GR10. The 866-kilometre GR10 hiking trail runs the length of the Pyrenees from Banyuls to Hendaye. The route is marked by red and white stripes painted onto trees and rocks, and can be completed in about 52 days. There are places to stay along most of the route, though it’s also possible to attempt smaller sections. Jardin Méditerranéen du Mas de la Serre. This three-hectare reserve sits above the town and aims to exhibit all the flora found within France’s Pyrénées-Orientales region. La Salette. The small, white La Salette church, constructed in 1863, lies 200 metres above Banyuls and is worth a visit if only for the panoramic village, sea and mountain views. Massane Forest. The 336-hectare Massane forest became a nature reserve in 1973 and is a prime example of an untouched forest ecosystem. A range of scientific observations are undertaken in the forest, whilst trails invite visitors to lose themselves in this protected den of tranquility.

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poRT VENDRES Port Vendres has a deep and rocky natural harbour which led King Louis XIV to order his architect, Vauban, to turn the town into a naval port. Today, the only remnant of Vauban’s defensive structures is the town’s clock tower. With an economy based on fishing, Port Vendres has a wealth of fish and seafood restaurants, as well as a bustling Saturday market. Highlights Paulilles. About three kilometres south of Port Vendres lies the Paulilles Recreational Park, a sweeping bay where exotic vegetation thrives within a former dynamite factory. Since the factory closed in 1984, the site has been returned to nature and visitors can now immerse themselves in its restored natural beauty, as well as its industrial history. Watersports. Port Vendres is a hub for watersports, with scuba diving, windsurfing and sea kayaking all popular activities. The tourist office (Quai François Joly 1) offers information on how to get involved.

coLLioURE The jewel in the crown of this stretch of coastline is, without a doubt, Collioure, where a delightful, chic old town lies alongside pebbly beaches, a waterfront castle and a medieval windmill.

FACTFILE GETTING THERE Train: Barcelona Sants - Cerbère (2 hours 30 minutes). Connect in Cerbère for Banyuls, Port Vendres, Collioure and Argèles. WHERE TO STAY Château Valmy (Argèles) Add a touch of class to your trip with a stay at the elegant Valmy Castle. www.chateau-valmy.com Hôtel-Restaurant les Templiers (Collioure) Located in the pedestrianised streets of Collioure, this is a fascinating bar, art museum and hotel where Matisse and Derain used to hang out. www.hotel-templiers.com Belvédère du Rayon Vert (Cerbère) Between 1928 and 1932, this Art Deco hotel was constructed to cater for passengers travelling between France and Spain, who had to change trains in Cerbère. After the Spanish Civil War, however, the borders were closed and the hotel fell into decline. Today, this crumbling, boatinspired building evokes a sense of its former grandeur, and part of it has been converted into holiday apartments. Call +33 4 68 88 41 54 or visit the tourist office (Avenue Général de Gaulle 23) to make a reservation. Camping For a range of different campsites, visit www.campingfrance.com FESTIVALS Les Déferlantes Sud de France. Big names descend on Argèles at this music festival held at Parc de Valmy. This year, The Chemical Brothers, Elton John, The Offspring and Bloc Party will be performing, among others, from July 7th-10th. Tickets range from €45.60 to €155.50. Fête de Mailly. A 30-metre marble obelisk, dating from 1780, stands on the quayside of Port Vendres. Every September, the Fête de Mailly commemorates the obelisk’s construction in an intriguing cultural festival that includes a fancy dress parade, a re-enactment of the placing of the first stone and sardanas dancing, among other things.

ARGÈLES-SUR-MER Argèles possesses the longest and sandiest stretch of beach on the Côte Vermeille, and a stroll along the seafront promenade is an ideal way to enjoy some gentle exercise. The beach here is rather touristy, although those looking to relax can head to the protected Le Racou beach nearby. Highlights Bois des Pins. This 19th-century forest contains over 8,000 pine trees that overlook the sea and is a great spot for a stroll with a view. Parc Municipal de Valmy. Located three kilometres south of Argèles, this 19th-century fairytale castle has been converted into a hotel, although the grounds are run by the council and provide a charming setting for picnics. Canyoning Park. To the north of Argèles, this adventure park is housed in an abandoned quarry and specialises in zip-lining, tobogganing and waterfall jumping. Le Sentier Littoral. This clifftop, coastal route starts at Le Racou beach in Argèles and leads to Banyuls, via Collioure. The whole walk takes approximately four hours.

Photo by Jean-Luc Kubiak

Highlights Royal Castle. Perched on the edge of the harbour, seemingly carved out of the rocky coastline is the Château Royale, built in 672 AD. Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges. Located on the other side of the harbour, this glowing-pink church, with its iconic lighthouse-bell tower, was painted several times by Matisse. Left to right: The Roofs of collioure (1905) by henri Matisse, the village of cerbère, hotel Belvédère du Rayon Vert

ART Fauvism Collioure is the birthplace of Fauvism, a movement that came into existence when Henri Matisse and André Derain visited Collioure in 1905 and produced 242 paintings, drawings and sculptures of the colourful town between them. Collioure’s labyrinth of hilly streets are dotted with reproductions of Fauvist canvasses along a route called the Chemin de Fauvism. Aristide Maillol Aristide Maillol (1861-1944) was a painter, printmaker and sculptor from Banyuls-sur-Mer, most famous for his sculptures of female nudes. Visit his former home, the Musée Maillol, and spot his work dotted throughout Banyuls: ‘The Recumbent Girl’ (1921) is on the Avenue du Fontaulé, ‘Ile de France sans bras’ (1925) is on the beach and a war memorial is located behind the Hôtel de Ville. Charles Rennie Mackintosh The Scottish architect, designer and water colourist Charles Rennie Mackintosh (1868-1928) spent two years of his life painting Port Vendres. A route around the port shows reproductions of his works from the spot he painted them, and a small museum in the Jardin du Dôme explores the time Mackintosh spent in the town through his paintings, photographs and videos. WINE Both Banyuls and Collioure boast their own wine appellation. Banyuls’ famous sweet red and the dry, full-bodied red, white and rosé wines of Collioure can be experienced at La Grande Cave de Terres des Templiers in Banyuls-sur-Mer with a guided tour and tasting session. HISTORY For many centuries, the Côte Vermeille had to defend itself from possible enemy attacks. Fort Saint-Elme, the Madeloc and Massane Towers and the Ultrera Castle ruins are all remnants of this former defensive network. Today, they offer spectacular views across the Roussillon plain.

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

Platerets LITTLE PLATES WITH BIG FLAVOUR IN THE HEART OF GRÀCIA. BY SAM ZUCKER.

y favourite restaurants are ones like Platerets where, though casual in nature, they take flavour so seriously that you have to stop and think about the layers of bold seasoning and spice after each exploratory mouthful. I found the mix of Catalan comfort food and panMediterranean dishes at Platerets intriguing, though the token injection of Asian cuisine, such as the salmon in ponzu sauce and tempura squid, was a bit predictable. That said, one of my favourite dishes of the night was the salty and sweet, fall-off-the-bone braised Ral d’Avinyó pork ribs with a sticky glaze of honey and soy sauce. Everything at Platerets is meant to be shared, and there are plenty of options to please any palate. Quiet on a Wednesday night at around 8pm, the minimalistic dining room quickly filled to capacity. By 9pm, the kitchen was humming, sending little plate after plate out to local couples, clusters of friends, a few tourists and large families who gathered happily around ✪ NOT WORTH THE TRIP

✪✪ COULD IMPROVE

several tables by the bar. I took my seat by the door, with a wall of hefty mason jars full of homemade pickled vegetables behind me, and was met by the smiling owner and manager, Ikerne Ibañez, herself.

Although there is a hint of Basque on the menu, the main theme here is decidedly Catalan. Ibañez hails from the Basque town of Getxo, and she created the Platerets concept along with Catalan chef, Eva Pujol, and her friend, Montse Roma. Although there is a hint of Basque Country on the menu at Platerets (namely the gildas, a typical Basque skewer of olives, anchovies, and pickled guindilla peppers that appear on their vermut menu), the main theme here is decidedly Catalan. I began with a serving of silky morro de bacallà (cod snout), cut into cubes and topped with ✪✪✪ GOOD

Recipe RED PEPPER TORTILLA

For me, early summer heralds the start of the outdoor eating season: long and lazy lunches in the sun, picnics in the park, sand and surf at the beach. For that, you need food that’s easily transportable and that can be eaten with one hand. This is my take on the traditional Spanish tortilla, making use of the sun-ripened Mediterranean vegetables that are so good at this time of year. It is also a very good way of using up leftovers. The potatoes keep it fairly solid, making it easy to cut into chunks, and I find making it the day before yields the tastiest results.

✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD

Kalamata olive vinaigrette and a savoury, sugarlaced tomato marmalade. The texture of the fish was excellent, and the delicately-perched edible flower garnish added an attractive pop of colour. Paired with a glass of La Charla—a crisp, grassy Verdejo wine from the region of Rueda—I thoroughly enjoyed this introduction to Platerets. The curried chicken croquette came highly recommended, and it really was exceptional; crispy on the outside, rich and creamy in the middle, with a hint of curry that was earthy and pungent without being spicy. I have to say, however, that I am so tired of food being served on little black sheets of slate that, if I never see another of these grease-smeared serving trays again, it will be too soon. Give me a nice white plate any day. I was just sopping up the remaining pools of tasty olive vinaigrette from my cod dish with a bit of insanely crisp pa de vidre amb tomaquet (glass bread with tomato) when my main dishes arrived. Presented in a red, cast iron casserole dish, the hearty stew of peas and beans from

✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED

INGREDIENTS • 6 medium sized potatoes, pre-cooked • 3 red peppers, quartered and roasted • 1 large onion, quartered and roasted • 6 eggs • 50g crumbled goat’s cheese • Olive oil • Salt and pepper METHOD 1. Slice all of the vegetables into 1-2cm pieces. 2. Warm a good glug of olive oil in a non-stick frying pan, ideally with a heatproof handle that you can put in the oven (a 26cm, old-fashioned paella pan is perfect for the job). 3. Add the vegetables, stir and

4. 5. 6.

8. 9.

warm through. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs together and season well with salt and pepper. Make sure the vegetables are evenly distributed, then pour over the eggs. Sprinkle over the goat’s cheese and cook over a low heat until the eggs start to set at the edges (about 5 minutes). Transfer to a heated grill and cook until the eggs are set all the way through (about 5 minutes). Remove from the grill and leave to cool before cutting into wedges. Eat straight from a napkin—a smear of aioli on top is optional (but very, very good).

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Photos by Sam Zucker.

Llavaneres with black sausage was delectable. A puff of steam escaped from the hefty crock as I lifted the lid, revealing a bed of soft, sweet green peas and baby broad beans inside, simmered in vegetable stock with a rich and tangy garnish of blood pudding and a few vibrant leaves of fresh mint. As a pairing, Ibañez wisely recommended a glass of Sembro, a Tempranillo wine from the Ribera del Duero. Though the wine paired well with the stew, it truly sang when tasted after the succulent pork ribs served in a rich, mouth-watering sauce of honey and soy. Extremely tender and cooked to perfection, the pork was given a necessary textural contrast by the crunchy curls of fried root vegetables that served as a garnish. I imagine that, if I had come to eat at Platerets with a group of five or six people, we could have easily ordered the entire menu and had a proper feast (I recommend this wholeheartedly), but having eaten solo on this visit, my handful of dishes sufficed quite nicely. All that was left to do after I wiped my plate clean of tantalising, pork-infused sauce was to dig into a homemade pot of tiramisu. I really enjoy tiramisu and, though I thought that this one was quite good, it did not have the decadent, custardy zabaglione base I was hoping for, and the overabundance of cocoa powder on the top needed to be thoroughly stirred in after I nearly aspirated the lot, cutting the night short with a violent, chocolate-flavoured coughing fit. Paired with the tiramisu was a wine that I found quite enjoyable. Well, it wasn’t a wine at all. It was an ‘ice cider’—an alcoholic cider from Asturias called Valverán 20 Manzanas that is sweet due to the freezing of the apple must, resulting in a halted fermentation and plenty of residual sugar. More than a small glass of this viscous elixir would surely end in a brutal hangover, but for a final touch of sweetness at the end of the meal, it was perfection.

MORE INFO. Milà i Fontanals 29. Tel. 93 463 6585. www.platerets.com Tues-Thurs 12pm-4pm & 7.30pm-11pm. Fri-Sat 12pm-4pm & 7.30pm-12.30am. Closed Sun-Mon ✪✪✪✪

in season: JUNE

What to watch out for this month at the market: Sweet bell peppers, aubergines and courgettes Tara Stevens is a food writer and cook who splits her time between Barcelona and her little cooking school in the Fez Medina. Passionate about Spanish and Moroccan cuisine, she takes traditional recipes and gives them a modern makeover using local and seasonal ingredients. Follow Tara on Instagram @courtyardkitchenfez and Twitter @taralstevens.

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QUICK BITES

Photos by Sam Zucker.

EN APARTÉ

A FRENCH CAFE FOR ANY TIME OF DAY. BY SAM ZUCKER.

ere in Catalunya, France is actually closer than you think. However, even though the border is easily within a couple of hour’s drive of Barcelona, French residents here have made it their duty to bring their country’s greatest treasure, la cuisine, with them. French dining might bring to mind whiteclothed tables in Michelin-starred temples of gastronomy, yet those who have experienced the endearing charm of southern French villages, cafes and bistros know that some of the most memorable dishes are the most sublimely simple of them all. At En Aparté, in the quaint and quiet Plaça de Sant Pere just steps into the Born from the Arc de Triomf, delicacies from north of the border are in abundance. Crusty baguettes with a hunk of sharp comté cheese and a smear of dijon mustard, perfectly-scrambled eggs (soft and creamy, in the French style) with delicate asparagus tips and crispy bacon, and rich pork

Tastings

rillettes with tart cornichons (pickled cucumbers), are just a few of the delicious things I crave whenever I take a seat at one of En Aparté’s vintage tables. Filled with natural light by day and animated voices by night, this busy cafe now feels like my second home. A morning coffee with fresh and chewy canelés or custardy pain aux raisins; a bottle of French wine with friends; a wellcooked midday menú del día for lunch; an afterwork apéritif; or a late night cocktail—they all have their precious place in my day. It would be impossible to count the hours I have spent here, typing away at my laptop whilst absentmindedly working the foot pedal of one of the antique sewing machines that now serve as tables. The decor of En Aparté is eclectic and full of recycled and repurposed bits of antiquity, from old lamps and wash basins to ancient coffee grinders and tarnished mirrors. The energy level here ebbs and flows throughout the day, reaching a crescendo at lunch time and just after working hours. With a large offering

of warming teas, an impressive all-French wine list, tasty sandwiches of French cheeses and charcuterie available all day, a large selection of satisfying French ‘tapas’, salads and desserts, a prix fixe lunch menu during the week and an excellent brunch on the weekend, En Aparté fits perfectly into the daily rhythm of life in the neighbourhood.

MORE INFO. Lluís el Piadós 2 Tel. 93 269 1335 www.enaparte.es Menú del día €11.90 Mon-Thurs 10am-1.30am Fri-Sat 10am-2am Sun 10am-12.30am

Miquel Hudin is a sommelier originally from California but now based in Barcelona. He founded the Vinologue series of wine books (www.vinologue.com).

A NEW CLASSIC

So, Clàssic Penedès was created as a more stringent and distinct sparkling wine. For starters, all wines must be made from organic grapes—this is the first sparkling wine designation in the world to introduce this requirement. The minimum ageing time is also 15 months, as opposed to the nine-month requirement of the DO Cava. Most importantly, all of the grapes must be from the DO Penedès region, whilst cava producers can source grapes from various regions all over Spain. In a tasting session at the DO’s headquarters, I came across the following two wines that showed different sides to this new designation.

ALBET I NOYA - BRUT 21 2012 Pale straw in colour. Notes of the lees, white blossoms and white pear. Light red apple notes in the body, medium-plus body, medium acidity and finish. Holds a great deal of singular character. €16

CLOS LENTISCUS - BLANC DE BLANCS 2012 A natural wine producer that uses the honey from their own beehives for the liqueur de tirage. Made from 100 percent Malvasia. Pale lemon in colour. Honey, white blossoms, fresh lemon zest, melon, medium-plus acidity, bright and lively. €17

When it comes to raising a glass in Catalunya, there are plenty of bubbles to choose from, with not one, but two sparkling wine designations in the region. We’re all familiar with the most famous one, DO Cava, but since 2013 a lesser-known appellation has existed— Clàssic Penedès—which represents sparkling wines originating from the DO Penedès area. The new designation was created because a number of producers in the multi-regional DO Cava grew dissatisfied with the industrialisation of the appellation, and wanted to differentiate products coming from the Penedès region.

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ADVERTISING FEATURE

GRAPE

escapes IN BARCELONA

Enoturisme Penedès

ith four DOs (Designation

horse and carriage.

from the Pansa Blanca (Xarel·lo) grape

emblematic works by leading Catalan Art

of Origin) in the province

A wide variety of local accommodation

variety. Quality, not quantity, in this

Nouveau architects.

alone,

is available to suit all tastes and budgets,

DO—there may be only eight cellars,

Don’t miss: Sant Sadurní d’Anoia is known

there’s no need to travel far to explore

from rustic country guesthouses to

but they produce high quality wines.

as the ‘Cava capital’ and is home to the

vineyards and taste great wines. Whether

boutique hotels. And for the perfect

Indeed, traditionally, the whites of Alella

delightfully sensorial Cava Interpretation

you’re a wine expert or a total beginner,

grape

vinotherapy—

were known as the wines of the Catalan

Centre, housed in a former distillery

enotourism is a wonderful way to learn

beauty treatments that use grapes for

bourgeoisie. Don’t miss: A visit to the Teià

dating from 1814.

about the local winemaking processes

their micronutrients and anti-ageing

Tourist Reception Centre, set alongside

For anyone who enjoys good wine

and discover the hills and valleys of this

properties.

the ancient Roman winery of Vallmora.

and beautiful landscapes, a trip to the

FOUR DOs, FOUR DIFFERENT WORLDS

DO Pla de Bages: Mountain landscapes

must and the Barcelona Provincial Council

DO Penedès: Catalunya’s largest DO

The

promotes wine tourism as a new way of

Covering a long strip of land between

between the mountains of Montserrat,

the sea and the mountains, halfway

Castelltallat, Sant Llorenç del Munt

between Barcelona and Tarragona, the

i l’Obac and the massif of Montcau.

For more information, visit

inﬂuence of sun and sea breezes makes

The most common grape variety here

www.barcelonaismuchmore.com

this area a privileged setting for wine

is Picapoll, which gives its wines their

Or follow them on:

production, and one of the most ancient

distinctive personality. There are 12

Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Pinterest

winemaking regions in Europe. Xarel·lo

wineries in this DO, and you can also learn

and Youtube (@bcnmoltmés)

is the grape variety that is best adapted

about traditional buildings constructed

THE WORLD OF WINE:

to the region’s land and climate and thus

close to the vines.

A NEW KIND OF TOURISM

the one most commonly found here.

Viniculture has a long tradition in

Don’t miss: The VINSEUM, housed in a

DO Cava: Bubbles for any party

Catalunya. Each winery is unique and,

converted medieval palace in in Vilafranca

The DO Cava is a multi-region DO,

whether it’s a family home, a Catalan

del Penedès.

although 95 percent of all cava is

Barcelona

escape,

try

countryside surrounding Barcelona is a

lovely area.

Josep Cano/Diputació de Barcelona

Pla

Bages

stretches

holidaymaking.

produced in the Penedès region. Here,

Art Nouveau landmark or the work of a famous architect, the main estate building

DO Alella: Sea-view vines

the winery buildings are key, as their

bears the hallmark of its personality. The

The inﬂuence of the sea is a determining

underground tunnels are the resting

wine produced is inﬂuenced by numerous

factor in the colour and bouquet of

place for millions of bottles of cava.

factors, including the vineyard’s history,

Alella’s whites, also produced mainly

What’s more, some of these buildings are

production processes, soil, vine and

Gonzalo Sanguinetti/Diputació de Barcelona

climate, which collectively reﬂect each cellar’s unique character. Many cellars oﬀer variouswine-related activities, from dramatised tours to tasting sessions and masterclasses in culinary pairing. There are also plenty of opportunities to relax and enjoy the great outdoors, wandering lush trails amidst the vineyards by foot, Segway or in a

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NEFW &D

FOOD DRINK

& IN

Bar D9 BAR4 POBLENOU Whether you are an Erasmus student, a football fanatic or a music lover, D9 Bar has at least one night a week for you. Equipped with a terrace, D9 offers a wide range of tapas, beers, cocktails and shots for every night of the week. With American Day on Wednesdays, Erasmus parties on Thursdays and music-themed parties on Fridays and Saturdays, there is always something for everyone.

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

under 20 | 20-30 | 30-40 | over 40  food&drink visit our online directory

Pallars 122, 08016 Tel. 93 309 9202 I www.denou.bar Sun-Thurs 6pm-2.30am Fri-Sat 6pm-3am

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking

CHICKEN SHOP & DIRTY BURGER 4BARRI GÒTIC

BAR DOS BILLARES4 RAVAL

Roast chicken and burgers – is there anything more appealing? This recently opened restaurant serves both! Their chicken from the Empordà region is marinated and cooked over coals by Chef Iñaki Moreno. They have some amazing Burgers on the Menu, with vegan and gluten free options too. Don’t forget to try their craft beers and cocktails! DJ sessions every Friday from 8pm onwards.

This well-kept secret is located in the basement of Casa Camper Hotel, where jazz, culture and billiard lovers can relax and enjoy an exclusive cocktail. This club offers a programme of cultural and music events for the most creative public. It is the ideal space for escaping the crowds or hosting business clients.

Duc de Medinacelli 2, 08002 Tel. 93 220 47009 christian@chickenshop.com Mon-Fri 1pm-12am and Sat 12pm-12am Sun 12pm-11am www.chickenshop.com, www.eatdirtyburger.com

Elisabets 11 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 6280 Tues-Thurs 4pm-12am Fri-Sat 4pm-2am www.club.casacamper.com

LOIDI RESTAURANT4 EIXAMPLE

BLACKLAB BREWERY4 BARCELONETA

Loidi is a contemporary bistro, in which Martin Berasategui makes his cuisine accessible to everybody. Prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients, his cuisine is presented with an imagination that recalls and pays homage to the celebrated Basque chef’s traditional roots and origins. The menu features various dining options with dishes that change on a weekly basis. The restaurant is a very contemporary, warm and comfortable space frequented by a local and professional clientele. Head chef: Jordi Asensio. Maître d’: Oscar Fernández. Mallorca 248-250, 08008 Tel. 93 492 9292 Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-3.30pm

The recently opened BlackLab Brewery offers customers a new experience in Barcelona––a place to enjoy a unique pint of craft beer, made just two metres away from where you’re sitting. BlackLab’s food is a culinary journey from China all the way to New York. You’ll find dumplings and bahn mi, mussels fresh from the fish market, ramen, cheesecake, portobello mushrooms, and more. New 1 hour beer tour every Sunday at 5pm. Tastings of 4 beers for €12. Quote ‘Metropolitan’ to receive a free BlackLab bag.

NEW BEER TOUR

Palau de Mar, Plaça Pau Vila 1, 08039 Tel. 93 22 18 360 hola@blacklab.es www.blacklab.es

Indian / Tandoori IMPRFCTO BAR4 SANT ANTONI

SURYA4EIXAMPLE Surya Barcelona is an Indian restaurant that invites you to travel all the way to the streets of Mumbai, rich in colour, smell and exotic flavours. They offer a cosy and relaxed space where you can feel at home, drink, read a magazine, connect to the Internet and work, all while sampling some of their delicious dishes. After dinner you can relax with cocktails and enjoy their in-house DJs, from their The House Party collective on “Deep Fridays”, to Saturday night’s “Funky New Disco”.

Pau Claris 92 | Consell de Cent 236, 08011 Tel. 93 667 8760 www.suryabarcelona.com Mon-Sun 10am-3am

Located in the trendy Sant Antoni area, close to Barcelona’s famous clubs like Apolo and Plataforma, this bar has an intriguing interior, funny waiters and quality Belgian beers and specialities at a great price. It’s the ideal place to watch football with friends while pouring your own beers to avoid queueing!

MONDAY´S 5 BEERS €5

Parallel 104 Bj 2, 08015 Tel. 93 222 9801

KAIZEN AFTERWORK4POBLE NOU Do you work close to 22@ and feel like relaxing after work? Come to Kaizen Afterwork and enjoy premium cocktails and tasty snacks. With great vibes and great music, bring this ad and you’ll get 15% off a gin and tonic. Castella 1 | Tel. 93 676 0761 / 636 092 221 Tues-Thurs 6pm-2.30am, Fri-Sat 6pm-3am, Sun 6pm-2.30am, Mon closed facebook.com/kaizenafterwork | info@kaizenafterwork.com

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FONDA ESPAÑA4 BARRI GÒTIC

MANNÀ GELATS4 BARRI GÒTIC

Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room, designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements. Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well-known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that are a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins.

Mannà Gelats offers homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico. Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the finest products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with market-bought products, and boast a range of exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalised attention.

Banys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312 Sun-Thurs 11am-10pm Fri-Sat 11am-11pm www.mannagelats.wordpress.com

Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun 1pm-4pm

BRITTA’S NORDIC DELI4GRÀCIA

CAFÉ MENSSANA4 CIUTAT VELLA At Menssana, a creative and healthy cuisine is combined with gracious and knowledgeable service. There is something for everyone, with vegan and vegetarian options created using flavours from across the globe. They also offer a carefully selected range of local wines and beers, as well as smoothies and fresh juices. Their aim is to nourish your body and mind with delicious meals, served in a vibrant and friendly atmosphere.

Britta’s Nordic Deli is the first and only Scandinavian deli in Barcelona. Here you’ll find the most delicious sandwiches and smørrebrød in town. Moreover, they offer all kinds of specialities to take away from a wide charcuterie, including smoked and marinated wild salmon, hot smoked salmon, marinated herring, homemade salads, smoked deer, organic cheeses, Danish seaweed caviar and a lot more. Bonavista 29 | Tel. 93 461 7362 | Mon 5-9pm, Tues-Fri 11.30am-3.30pm and 5pm-9pm, Sat 11.30am-3.30pm, Sun closed | www.brittas.es

Delivery FOODIES BARCELONA4POBLENOU Foodies Barcelona is an online restaurant that prepares wholesome and fresh meals, delivering to your office, business or party. Whether you want a healthy lunch for a meeting or daily catering, they’ve got you covered. Order online or contact them for a menu.

Sardenya 48, 08005 Tel. 93 624 3505 Mon-Sat 9am-12am Sun 9am-6pm www.facebook.com/menssanabarcelona

Sant Joan de Malta 131 | Tel. 93 266 4271 Mon-Fri 8am-11am | www.foodiesbarcelona.es

Vegetarian/Vegan TAP DE SURO4 EIXAMPLE Tap de Suro is an intimate place dedicated entirely to the world of wine. Here you can experience delicious Mediterranean meals accompanied with an authentic wine collection. They offer a diverse menu of Catalan wines and cavas, ranging from local Spanish grapes to the best international wines. They also provide a sales service in which they can advise you in finding the perfect flavour for every occasion.

Mallorca 202, 08008 Tel. 93 461 4853 info@tapdesuro.com Mon-Sat 12pm-5pm and 7pm-11.30pm Sun closed www.tapdesuro.com

BE MY BAGEL4GRÀCIA Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. Offering an extensive range of bagels and cakes—from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed.

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) | Metro Fontana or Gràcia Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm Sat 10am-2.30pm and 6pm-10pm Sun 10.30am-2pm www.bemybagel.es

GOVINDA (VEGETARIAN)4BARRI GÒTIC Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation with its vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features thalis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, non-alcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 Tues-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11.30pm, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm | www.govinda.es

AMALTEA4EIXAMPLE

A warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with homemade puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Their menu of the day costs 10.70, while their night and weekend menus cost 15.50. Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun closed | www.restauranteamaltea.com

HAPPY DAY VEGETARIANO4 EIXAMPLE Located in the centre of town, this vegetarian-vegan restaurant, Happy Day Vegetariano, offers a variety of fresh salads, soups and dishes. There is also a large assortment of fresh home-baked cakes to choose from, including carrot, pear, orange and carob. These vegetarian and vegan cakes are produced using brown sugar and organic wholemeal flour. At Happy Day Vegetariano, they believe that if you take care of your health and eat the right food, your well-being and mood will improve. Come to the Happy Day and make the animals, yourself and the world happier! çPau Claris 143 (between Valencia and Aragón) Tel. 93 171 7081 Mon-Sat 1pm-5pm, Sun closed www.happydayvegetariano.com/en

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HEALTH &BEAUTY

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Doctor for Adults

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine. She is also a member of IAMAT.

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Doctors Barcelona - DOCTOR Doctors Barcelona is the top medical group in Barcelona. They are committed to providing a first-rate level of care and attention. They are experienced, trained and equipped to diagnose and treat the most acute or chronic medical problems and injuries. Available 24 hours including weekends and holidays. A 30-minute arrival time to your destination is guaranteed. Their visit fee is refundable by most insurance companies. All doctors are specialists and, using their services, the best hospitals are available.

M. 689 327 144 info@doctorsbarcelona.com www.doctorsbarcelona.com

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

Dr Bassas - DErMATology The Javier Bassas Dermatology Centre is a well-renowned dermatology and surgical centre equipped with the latest technology. The medical team, led by Dr. Javier Bassas Bresca, consists of Surgical Dermatology and Venereology specialists with vast clinical and surgical experience. Their goal is to provide specialised, rigorous, efficient and accessible care in Surgical Dermatology and Venereology, with the highest quality and ethical standards. Diagnosing and treating skin diseases is their priority, as well as offering the latest advances in dermoaesthetics. Consulta Balmes 24 1º1 T. 93 412 6602. Teknon, Marquesa de Vilallonga nº 12. Consulta nº 34 1ª 08017 T. 93 290 6434 www.drbassas.com

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR An English doctor in Barcelona, Dr Steven Joseph is a member of The Royal College of General Practitioners and The Royal College of Psychiatrists. He offers a wide range of medical care, including family medicine, sexual health, mental health and access to all specialists and tests. Physiotherapy and chiropractic services are also available. googol Medical Center provides comprehensive healthcare in a relaxed, friendly and discreet environment. Dr Joseph is happy to take your enquiries directly. Gran Via Carles III 37-39, 08028 M. 662 291 191 www.englishdoctorbarcelona.com

ServiDigest - HEALTH ServiDigest have more than 40 years’ experience working for your health and are pioneers in colorectal cancer prevention. Nowadays, colorectal cancer is one of the most common cancers and prevention is the best treatment. The cure for colorectal cancer depends on preventative measures and its early diagnosis. Detecting symptoms at earlier stages is the key to a good outcome. However, if it is discovered at an advanced stage, it has a five-year survival rate. They have two important digestive screening programmes: the Colorectal Prevention Programme and the Digestive Cancer Prevention Programme.

ServiDigest. Thinking of people. Fostering prevention. Medical and Surgical Center ServiDigest

Balmes 334, 08006 T. 93 415 3464/93 545 0990 Mon-Fri 9am-2pm and 4pm-9pm Sat 9am-2pm, Sun closed uad@servidigest.com www.servidigest.com

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Dr. J. E Batista - UROLOGIST Dr. Jose E Batista is a specialist in Urology who trained in the UK and the USA. Together with his team (Uroclinica Barcelona), he covers all the fields of Urology, with special interest in prostatic diseases, laser surgery, bed wetting (enuresis) and urinary incontinence. The team has worked at Centro Médico Teknon since 1996 and also offers specialists in pediatric urology, as well as English speaking physiotherapists for pelvic floor disorders. Vilana 12, Office 24, Consult. Marquesa, C M Teknon T. 93 390 6940 Valencia 247, Barcelona Central Office T. 93 390 671 info.urologia@gmail.com www.teknon.es/web/batista

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Orthoestetic - DENTIST

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their dentists experience allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients. Dr. Holguin is a specialist in orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults, and dental aesthetics. She is certified by the Invisalign system.

New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, this team consisting of first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 35 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, german, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan. Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Metro: Rocafort/Rosselló (L5) Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005 Mon, Weds, Thurs 3.30pm-8.30pm Tues and Fri 9.30am-2pm susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

Platinum Provider

Dr. Boj - DENTIST

Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 Metro: Verdaguer (L4 ,L5) www.orthoestetic.es www.ortoesteticbcn.es info@orthoestetic.es

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic DENTIST

Dr. Boj and his team offer specialised, comprehensive pediatric dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. laser dentistry and invisible orthodontics are available. Dr. Boj also lectures on all treatments related to these age groups. He studied at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of rochester, Ny, USA. This is a fast and friendly service in an English-speaking, international environment.

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona and Terrassa provides excellent oral care in an Englishspeaking environment. Dr Nancy Pancko, an American dentist trained at Columbia University in New york, is an American Board-certified orthodontist. Dr Javier Sanz is an American Boardcertified periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university. Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care. Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 T. 93 246 9043 Metro: Clot (L1, L2) www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

Bikram Yoga - HoT yogA

READER OFFER

Bikram yoga have two centres in Barcelona with over 50 classes a week and options for children. Providing the ideal solution for back pain, stress, weight loss and other problems, they offer international staff and more than 18 years’ experience. reader offer: €25 for 10 days of unlimited yoga. Pau Claris 97, PRAL, 08009, T. 93 302 5130 Caravel•la la Niña 18, 08017, T. 93 205 0281 www.bikramyoga.es

YogaconGracia - yogA An enchanting neighbourhood studio and community space with two locations in the heart of gràcia. Founded in 2004, you will find a friendly, international vibe in the gorgeous loft-style studios. ycg has something for everyone, from Hatha, Sivananda, Kundalini, Jivamukti (a fast-paced vinyasa) to English, pre-natal and Mum and Baby yoga classes.. Dentistsalut - DENTIST For 15 years Dentisalut has offered the latest in dental care, with up-to-date techniques, materials and technology. Two strategically situated clinics and a team of highly trained dentists directed by Dr. Juan Carlos Torres, an expert in implants and oral surgery. Quality treatments at reasonable price and emergency dental care at weekends. English, French, Catalan and Spanish spoken. Dentisalut Sants T. 93 315 8557 / M. 619 064 753 Creu Coberta 54 Metro: Hostafrancs (L1) y Plaza España (L3) Dentisalut Nou Barris Pl. Garrigó 18 Metro: Fabra y Puig (L1) y Virrey Amat (L5) T. 93 408 5197 / M. 647 789 390 Emergencies: 639 868 374 www.dentisalut.com www.facebook.com/Dentisalut/

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www.yogacongracia.com

FREE REJUVENATING ROSEHIP MASK

The Vital Touch - MASSAgE What is Japanese Facelifting Massage? Japanese Facelifting Massage uses a sequence of massage techniques which act as a natural face lift with no need for surgery, helping make you look and feel younger. This combination of techniques helps improve the complexion, remove toxins from the face, prevent and remove facial wrinkles, reduce and release any muscle tension in the face and jaw. Facelift Massage is to help prolong natural, true health and beauty, and to prevent disease. It makes you feel fantastic. Special discounted packs! M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com

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Symmetry Pilates- PILATES

Uby Muñoz, Lic.Ac. - ACUPUNCTUrE

Premium Pilates - NoT ‘get in, get knackered, get out!’ Unlike other forms of exercise, Pilates is targeted at those parts of the body where either correction – too long huddled over a computer for example – or strength is needed, as well as building up a strong core. People who do Pilates know it’s all about quality not quantity, so the benefit is felt after only a few sessions. So, sign up at this swanky new city-centre studio (yoga & physio also available) and enjoy a complimentary massage.

Trained in England, Uby has experience successfully treating a wide range of health problems including: allergies, arthritis, chronic pain, migraines, headaches, IBS, infertility, IVF, insomnia, back pain, menopause, stress and anxiety. Uby specialises in natural fertility treatments and women’s health. uby@bcnwellwoman.com www.bcnwellwoman.com Casp 80, 1-3, 08010 T. 622 720 499

Enric Granados 111 (entlo 2º) T. 93 531 3620 M. 637 693 073 info@symmetry.cat www.symmetry.cat

IAN GIBBS - LIFE COACH

FREE CONSULTATION

Jessica Boston

Matt Green - PErSoNAl TrAINEr AND

CogNITIVE HyPNoTHErAPIST & COACH Jessica Boston is a certified Cognitive Hypnotherapist based in the centre of Barcelona. Cognitive Hypnotherapy works to redefine your subconscious perspective and guide you towards what you really want, making positive change quickly and permanently to any kind of issue. Why not get in touch for your complimentary consultation to find out how it could change any aspect of your life, because nothing has to be the way it’s always been.

FREE TRIAL

KineMez offers personalised physical therapy in gràcia/Sant gervasi. They specialise in postural reeducation using the Mézières method, for the treatment of sciatica, discal herniation, scoliosis, back pain, temporomandibular disorders, patellofemoral pain, womens health and sports injuries. T. 93 201 6513 Guillem Tell 40 Entlo.2ª kinemez@kinemez.com www.kinemez.com

NEST - NETWorK oF ENglISH

Jonathan Hooker - PSyCHoTHErAPIST

SPEAKINg THErAPISTS

FREE CONSULTATION

Hestía - PSyCHoTHErAPy Hestía International Psychotherapy Centre has become a reference in the city, due to its high quality multidisciplinary and multilingual profile. Their professional team works with individuals, couples and families through a variety of services and approaches to therapy and personal development. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, german, Portuguese, greek, Polish, Swedish, russian and Catalan. The first consultation is free. Diagonal 343, 2º 3ª Metro: Verdaguer (L5) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

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Jonathan specialises in helping people to deal with change. This may be aspects of their life they would like to change or unexpected changes that they are dealing with. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he helps people to improve their relationships and make sense of their lives. M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, german, Italian and greek. For detailed information, please visit their website. www.barcelonaNEST.com

NUTrITIoNIST Achieve your lifestyle goals with Matt green’s personal training and nutrition classes. Build and tone muscle, improve core strength and lose weight. His services also include H.I.T, functional and core training, nutrition and healthy cooking advice. Plus new private gym facilities. Av. Josep Tarradellas 101, 08029 M. 667 349 680 mateus_verde@hotmail.com

KINEMEZ - PHySIoTHErAPy CENTrE

M. 660 514 795 Metro: Diagonal/Provenca www.jessicaboston.com hello@jessicaboston.com

NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS

If you’re feeling a bit dissatisfied with your life, then maybe you should try talking to a life coach. Ian can help you regain control, balance and confidence to get you back on track to success and happiness. you’ve nothing to lose except your current dissatisfaction. Call now to arrange a free 1-hour consultation M. 605 801 802 ian.coaching@gmail.com www.iangibbs.es

First visit: 50% discount

Oliver Dawson - BorN CHrIoPrACTIC oliver Dawson is a chiropractor who focuses on the direct relationship between spinal structures and health. Through specific spinal realignment and structural correction, better neurological connections are established throughout the nervous system. The result is less pain, more vitality and better health. Call today. Sombrerers 27, Principal T. 93 268 3070 M. 622 772 623 oliver@bornquiro.com www.bornquiro.com Living Mindfully - MINDFUlNESS CoUrSES Do you want to improve your mood, have better relationships, focus, decrease stress and anxiety and find long term peace of mind? learn Mindfulness is in central Barcelona, taught by an English psychotherapist and Mindfulness teacher in the MBSr format. info@livingmindfully.es www.livingmindfully.es

Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and offers a home delivery service. The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. Av. Diagonal 478 T. 93 416 1270 9am-10pm www.farmaciaserra.com

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BUSINESS SERVICES DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Sánchez Molina LEGAL PRACTICE The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Garment Printing is a printing company based in Barcelona and the UK. They offer printed clothing with personalised logos for fashion brands, staff uniforms and promotional clothing. Printed promotional products, such as flyers, business cards, printed pens, and banners are also available—anything you could want customised with a logo! whether you’re a business or an individual, we can help you fulfil your branding and printing needs. Contact them today.

Comte d’Urgell 28 T. 93 393 8194 www.garmentprinting.es

Fuente Fradera - LAwyERS Based in Barcelona, Fuente Fradera Lawyers is a rapidly growing law firm which covers areas of law including: real estate, commercial law and labour law. Their services are available for businesses, entrepreneurs and private consultations. As legal advisers, they offer a highly efficient, quality service which generates valuable customer confidence in their work. They speak English, French, German and Russian.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

Gran Vía Corts Catalanes T. 93 317 5219 joseramon@fuentefradera.com www.fuentefradera.com

Spain Accounting-

BCN Seguros - INSURANCE

TAX & BUSINESS SERVICES Qualified UK accountant with 30 years experience in Spain offers: • tax services for freelance “autónomos” and small SLs • income tax returns for employees and non-residents • practical advice on setting up a business in Spain • registration of “autónomos” and company incorporation (SL) • personalised advice on your tax obligations in Spain • fast, reliable email service

Local Barcelona Insurance Agency providing complete personal and business insurance services. (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.) we offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical! Advice given in Spanish, English and German.

Contact David Cook on M.678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com

M. 636 465 010 rainerhobrack@gmail.com www.bcnseguros.es

Coccinelle - HOME SERVICES

Mac in Barcelona -

Do you need a nanny, housekeeper or chauffeur? Coccinelle specialises in providing highly-skilled, experienced domestic staff in Barcelona and the surrounding areas. Due to their expertise and rigorous selection methods, they are able to provide seasoned professionals for both permanent or temporary positions to suit your needs. you can arrange everything now from the comfort of your own home! Call them today and quote Metropolitan free consultation.

T. 93 125 8626 info@coccinelle.es www.coccinelle.es

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Garment Printing - BUSINESS

COMPUTERS Stéphane Clément is an Apple technician and consultant with over fifteen years of experience. Anna Piqué, a native from Barcelona, assists Stéphane with her business and communication background. Their focus is on providing good service and installations with clear communicative skills and personal advice. The aim is to solve your computer troubles and teach you how to improve your daily use of your Mac and its various accessories, giving you an opportunity for a more pleasant and safer computer experience. MOB / Bailen 11, Bajos, 08010 M. 608 994 599 info@macinbarcelona.com www.macinbarcelona.com

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FREN

Mrs.Q design studio

8 GRAPHIC DESIGN INVITATION DESIGN BRANDING | ADVERTSING POSTERS | FLYERS | MENUS

Ibex Insurance Services Limited

Mrs.Q design studio GRAPHIC DESIGN

Ibex have been in operation since 2000 and have grown to be one of the largest insurance providers for the expatriate community in Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar, they can insure your car, motorbike, home, pet, health, holiday home, boat, travel, business and provide funeral plans and more.

Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services.Contact Mrs.Q for their competitive business packages which includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as flyers, posters and brochures. They specialises in bespoke invitations. Visit their Etsy page to see examples for their work www.etsy.com/shop/ MrsQdesignstudio.

900 102 527 www.ibexinsure.com

Natacha Elmir - PHOTOGRAPHER Canadian photographer Natacha Elmir is known for her fine art style of photography. She can transform your baby shoot, family portrait or wedding event into a timeless piece of art while keeping a very natural feel. Natacha’s service also includes headshots, album covers, events, fashion and food photography.

M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com Instagram #mrsqdesignstudio

M. 600 803 661 natachaelmir@gmail.com wwww.natachaelmir.com

Fábrica de Flyers - BUSINESS

Home Orden

Fábrica de Flyers brings the successful concept of high class printing and design to Barcelona at competitive prices and provides a quality service to match. Eight years of experience on the German market made them one of the leading printing agencies, with clients all over Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Fábrica de Flyers is not an advertisment agency, but the best partner to create your publicity!

Frustrated with the mess in your home? Have no time? Don’t know where to start? Moving soon? Just moved in? My goal is to help you get your place in order and implement strategies to stay organised. we can work side by side or I can work alone, for a one off project or over a longer period according to your needs.

Pujades 74-80, 3º 7ª, 08005 T. 93 485 6422 info@fabricadeflyers.com www.fabricadeflyers.com

FIRST CONSULATAION FREE

Step Up With V - PERSONAL BRANDING A combined coaching and consulting service for professionals and entrepreneurs who need to define and communicate their brand identity and purpose. Connect with your audience, find your market position and increase your visibility and business opportunities! CALL FOR A FREE CONSULATAION

Supported charities 2014 - 2016

membership@bcnwomensnetwork.com

Complete internet services for companies and individuals. Put your business online with a wonderful website and professional emails. They build your social profiles, optimise your web pages for Google and make professional blogs to be managed directly by you. CALL FOR A FREE CONSULATAION

637 005 656 hola@lawebdelborn.com www.lawebdelborn.com

Javiertranslates - TRANSLATOR Translation services in various languages made by freelance translators according to your needs. Professionalism and confidentiality guaranteed. Don’t let the language get in the way between your company and the Spanish/Catalan market.

president@bcnwomensnetwork.com www.bcnwomensnetwork.com

M. 637 704 550 info@javiertranslates.com www.javiertranslates.com Open 8am-7pm

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS

CIBERVIRREINA - COMPUTER SERVICE

George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

FELISA COWORK - COWORKING SPACE

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

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M. 600 803 661 natachaelmir@gmail.com wwww.natachaelmir.com

La Web Del Born - wEB DESIGN STUDIO

Barcelona Women’s Network - BUSINESS • Barcelona’s premier network for international women • Over 200 members from 30+ countries. • As a social club that supports local charities and offers a business network, activities include social gatherings, cultural outings, volunteer opportunities, and business seminars. we help women thrive and feel at home in Barcelona.

M. 625 204 328 stephanie@homeorden.com

Open until 11pm every day of the week, they can repair your computer in 24/48 hours using well-tested procedures. Repairing software and hardware failures, saving your personal files and returning your computer fully operative. In addition to having internet access they do printing, copying and binding jobs. D'Astúries 78 (Plaça de la Virreina, Gràcia). Metro L3 (Fontana) or L4 (Joanic) T. 93 368 5770 serviciocliente@cibervirreina.com

Felisa Cowork is a welcoming, charming and professional space in the centre of Barcelona. A place to boost your productivity in creative surroundings, among like-minded people. They offer free drinks, organic fruit, energetic breakfasts and back massages. Open 24h. Visit their website for more details on the services they provide. T. 93 539 0588 M. 601 111 292 hola@felisacowork.com www.felisacowork.com

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NIE Barcelona

Corsa International

- BUSINESS

- DRIVING SCHOOL NIE Barcelona is a service that helps foreigners resolve all the paperwork needed for living and working in Barcelona. Their main focus is on helping to secure the NIE for EU and NON-EU citizens in a fast and efficient way. They can also help with other administrative procedures, such as social security numbers, empadronamiento, autónomo set up, and change of driving license or car registration.

Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324

M. 603 209 403 info@niebarcelona.com www.niebarcelona.com

international@autoescuelacorsa.com

www.autoescuelacorsa.com www.facebook.com/CorsaInternational/

Act Habitat - ARCHITECTS

La Luna Shipping -

we can help…

we offer a complete service to efficiently manage any kind of transport. Anywhere in the world, from a overnight courier service, to an airfreight or seafreight shipment to the other side of the world. we are specialist managing personal effects shipments, small “boxed” removals from Barcelona to Europe, UK, USA, Australia, New Zealand. Don’t look further, LA LUNA shipping is your one stop shop for your transport and logistics needs in Barcelona.

LOGISTICS

Create your perfect living or work space Get the most out of your investment Acheive a healthy and sustainable environment Deal with paperwork and permits Manage the building works and costs Choose the best firm for the job Coordinate with the neighbours Get in touch, we’d love to hear from you!

T. 93 220 1715 info@laluna.coop www.laluna.coop facebook.com/ somos.lalunashipping

Avinyó 6, 1º 2ª, 08002 T. 93 318 7121 info@act-habitat.com www.act-habitat.com

Handyman - HOME SERVICES Mark offers honest, transparent, efficient, English/Spanish/Swedish speaking handyman services. He can help you hang a mirror, paint a room, install reverse osmosis, hang blinds or curtains, do home repairs, assemble Ikea furniture and he can even fix up your place so you can get your “fianza” back from your landlord. Hourly rates. Real time updates.

M. 645 691 475 mark@handymanbarcelona.com www.handymanbarcelona.com Facebook handymanbarcelona74

La Dolce Vita ITALIAN FASHION This new shop located in Born has exclusive Italian fashion (items of design, comfort, elegance and quality, made in Italy). They can offer advice on how to dress according to your figure and the occasion, highlighting your strengths to help you choose the most suitable clothes.

Ronda de Sant Pere 54 T. 93 518 4773 Metro: Urquinaona (L1 & L4) Arc de Triomf (L1) Facebook ladolcevitamodahombre Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

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BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from 4 - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday. The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience. They also offer specialised summer programmes, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.

Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

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JOB

DIRECTORY To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS

www.classifieds.barcelona-metropolitan.com

COACHING COLUMN SAM SAYS... DON’T FORGET THE BIGGER PICTURE Hi Sam, I used to make lists all the time, and even made lists for my lists, categorising everything into A-B-C. This has helped me to feel stable and give me a clearer sense of direction.

I am wondering, however, if I’m exerting too much mental effort in doing this kind of activity and missing out on other potential opportunities in life. How can I raise my awareness and see other possibilities for things that haven’t made my ‘A-B-C’ cut? Thank you, ‘A ’ Woman P.S. Your column is an ‘A ’.

Dear ‘A’ Woman, Firstly, thank you so much for the ‘A’. I get the feeling that you’re a hard marker, so I appreciate the high standing. As someone who sounds like a ‘Type A’ (lists for lists is a dead giveaway), your ability to thrive off order and structure is a fabulous gift. It can, however, blindside you if it prevents you from seeing other potentially positive opportunities. As human beings, we love to categorise and put things into nicely wrapped, easy-to-understand and simple-to-explain ‘boxes’. People and situations that we can’t ‘classify’ tend to scare us. They’re unpredictable and we often end up questioning ourselves when encountering someone or something that we can’t define. When I initially read your question, the first thing that came to mind was the phrase, ‘can’t see the wood for the trees’. This usually refers to when someone is unable to understand a situation because they’re paying too much attention to specific details. When we focus on putting everyone and everything in its place, what happens is that we miss out on the bigger picture—it sounds like you’ve already picked up on this, which is the first step. The challenge is now figuring out how to keep this sense of comfort and security while shifting where you invest your ‘mental energies’. What will it take for you to push the envelope, break out of your ‘list’ comfort zone and make sure you’re not limiting yourself? Over the next few weeks, I challenge you to try the following: 1. Venture off course. Make a conscious effort to say ‘yes’ to an activity or an endeavour you would normally avoid. 2. Take a step back and create ‘forced perspective’. Take 30-60 seconds after making your next list or crafting a judgment and ask yourself: Is there anything I can add to this? Is this in line with my bigger picture? 3. Create new habits. For one whole week, replace the habit of categorising things and people with something else. The best way to create a new habit is by replacing it with another; not scrapping the old one altogether. What could you do instead of your lists? Perhaps something that might help create awareness, yet still allow you to feel at ease, such as exercise or a creative activity.

Sam Mednick is a professional life and executive coach based in Barcelona (www. blueprintcoaching.ca). A Canadian native, she’s been living in the city for eight years, working with companies as well as individuals, focusing on transitions, communication, leadership training, time management and productivity, as well as emotional intelligence development. For more coaching tips, tune into her podcast (blueprintcoaching.podomatic. com), or to ask Sam a question, email sam@blueprintcoaching.ca or editorial@ barcelona-metropolitan.com.

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INTERVIEW

Suzanne Wales

We get a lot of people on the tours with a special interest in design. From architecture and design students, to couples who care about beautiful buildings and photographers who want to get one-of-a-kind shots for their portfolios. There are never more than four people per tour, so there’s always room to alter the itinerary to suit. Our design tours steer clear of the city centre. We walk mostly around the Eixample. My favourite spot there is Nani Marquina’s shop. She’s an artisan rug maker and her work is astounding. Her showroom on Diagonal used to be a garage—you can see the ramps that once led down to the lower parking spaces—and all her beautiful work is hung on the walls like it would be in an upscale carpet bazaar. We often go to the Raval, as well, where we focus on urbanism. Great changes have taken place in that neighbourhood since the early Nineties, when it became the model of gentrification that Barcelona is now so famous for. I think it’s still really interesting—it’s probably my favourite barrio at the moment. And finally, we sometimes head to Poblenou for art and new architecture. I don’t know the area as well as I should, but I can see exciting things happening there. What really attracts me is the contrast between old and new. You might see a crumbling 19th-century house next to a cutting-edge office building. It’s an incredibly funky collage that allows you to read its history en la calle.

By Ben Rowdon

SCOOP

I grew up in the suburbs of Melbourne, which I considered pretty culturally desolate back then. Luckily, my father was a fan of classical music, opera, ballet and art, and dragged us to exhibitions and shows whenever he could. I studied fashion and design at university, but never finished my degree. Instead, I took a job at a big fashion house. I was involved in the fashion scene for quite some time, but had an in-between period where I was very anti-establishment and went to far north Queensland to be a hippie. When I came back, I worked in fashion again, but by then I saw it all as a bit superficial. I lived in New York and London before coming to Barcelona. I had always been particularly fascinated with Gaudí. I had books on architecture in which he appeared as this wacky architect out to change the face of Barcelona, and I wanted to see his work for myself. So I got my teaching degree in London, came here to teach English and just stayed. I moved here during the build up to the 1992 Olympic Games. Many local architects and designers were employed to revamp the city, and I couldn’t imagine being anywhere more exciting. Since the mid-Nineties I’ve earned a living from writing. I first transitioned into the field by working as a correspondent for The European, which was the only pan-European newspaper ever to be published. I wrote a lot for them, focusing mainly on Barcelona culture, fashion and design. I also wrote for Metropolitan and worked in Italy for Benetton’s COLORS Magazine. My career grew from these early experiences. Out of everything I’ve written, I think the social impact stories stand out most in my mind. I wrote one story on a huge squat that existed here, which was full of immigrants who didn’t have access to residency permits. Together they forged this mini-city, set up in old military barracks in Sant Andreu—in one corner you had the Romanians, in another were the Ghanaians. It was like a mini United Nations. They were eventually evicted, but for a time it felt like a utopian society where it didn’t matter so much that they were living in poverty. I enjoy writing iconic architecture stories. I’ve done stories on Walden 7 (Ricardo Bofill’s apartment building), and on the social housing highrises in Bellvitge. Residential projects often fly under the radar, but I like covering them because they have a human side to their story. I think Barcelona is particularly good for civil architecture. The fact that a lot of these buildings are funded publicly, rather than privately, humanises their intent. I believe architecture shapes a city, but I’m actually more passionate about design. I currently give design tours with a partner, Brian Gallagher, and two independent art curators. I started something similar for a tour provider, but they weren’t very popular. When people come to Barcelona for only a few days, they want to see Gaudí’s architecture and eat. That’s the reality. I knew there was a market for what I was trying to do, though, so Brian and I took matters into our own hands.

Photo by Yan Pekar.

WRITER, AUSTRALIA. BY RACHEL HUFFMAN.

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