Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 205

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February 2014 Nº 205 Free

PLUS New in town What’s on this month Restaurant reviews

Barcelona Buskers Life for the city’s street musicians

THE DRASSANES REVISITED Recent excavations unearth some surprises

ZEN IN THE KITCHEN

All in a day’s work for Ciutat Vella’s chefs

A day in Tarragona

Explore this rich Roman heritage by the sea

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Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Andrea Moreno Editor Esther Jones

FEBRUARY 2014 26

Art Director Aisling Callinan Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell, Adriana Soto and Daniel Whitehead

Regulars 06 10 11 21 34 50

Editorial Assistants Amanda Astramowicz, Mick ter Reehorst

In the City On the Cover Recipe Culture Food & Drink Interview

Design Assistant Marina Dimova Sales Assistant Sena Çakiroglu Contributors Jay Collins, Xavier Macias, Tori Sparks, Marius Stankiewicz, Daniel Whitehead and Sam Zucker Cover image Aimee McLachlan Photographers Aimee McLachlan

What’s on 12 14 16 18

Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial: editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com. General: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com.

February Calendar Music Art Best of the Rest

Depósito legal: B35159-96 The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

Features

22 Busking in Barcelona Metropolitan talks to some of the city’s street musicians.

Ciutat 7 2ª-4ª, 08002 Barcelona.

26 Discovering the past

Tel. 93 451 4486

Unexpected finds at the Maritime Museum have led to a reevaluation of the area’s history.

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

30 A passion for cooking Three chefs in Ciutat Vella share their kitchen secrets.

32 Tarragona Take a day to explore this port city with its rich Roman heritage.

Directories Food & Drink Business Shopping Jobs

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contributors

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TORI SPARKS

AMANDA ASTRAMOWICZ

XAVIER MACIAS

Tori is a professional musician living in Barcelona. She and her band have released four albums, recorded in Nashville, and are working on the fifth, which will be the first to recorded here in Barcelona. Tori has been writing for Metropolitan for a year and a half, mostly on topics dealing with society, culture, art and music. She enjoys working with Metropolitan because it gets her head out of ‘touring mode’, and allows her the opportunity to meet fascinating people she might otherwise never come across.

Work and study has allowed Amanda to explore many countries in Europe, Asia and America. Amanda’s love for travel, music, art and warm weather eventually brought her to Spain two years ago after completing her studies in English Literature and Journalism at the University of Toronto. First to the Balearic Islands teaching English in primary and secondary school classrooms, and then to Madrid the following year. She currently lives in Barcelona gaining experience as an assistant editor at Metropolitan, while working as a tutor, art teacher and DJ by night.

Xavier Macias was born in Catalunya but grew up in Montreal, Canada, later moving to Toronto where he lived for many years. He has degrees in engineering and journalism. He and his wife, with two young daughters, spent three years living aboard a small sailboat while sailing in the US and the Bahamian islands. He’s worked as an engineer, librarian, editor, sailmaker and freelance writer and translator. Since 2006 he and his family have been living in Vilassar de Dalt so that they can walk the dog in the mountain and still have a view of the sea.

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gastrobar & restaurant

New Restaurant & Gastrobar meeting point for the cosmopolitan people of Barcelona. Gastrobar (prices between €10-€20 per person), open all day with tapas cooked on the spot. Brunch menu available from 12pm to 5pm. Enjoy the finest classic cocktails in Barcelona (€6 to €9) from 7pm. Restaurant with Grill from 1pm-4pm and 8pm-12.30am where the best meat in the city is authentically prepared. Cuts include Black Angus from Santa Fe, Argentina and Nebraska.

Balmes 127, Barcelona Tel. 93 451 5048 www.milorestaurant.com

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06 IN THE CITY

IN TOWN fashion food  Tailored to the folks living and working in the Eixample, Vintage offers designer cocktails and top-notch cuisine, described by their chef as “classical Mediterranean with a Japanese twist”. Hip and inviting, the owners are keen to promote Vintage as a place to just hang out and enjoy life: hence their slogan: life & food. Open from first thing in the morning, they offer fresh fruit juices and homemade jams to start the day. At lunchtime you can enjoy one of Barcelona’s more creative midday menús, with dishes such as bluefin tuna burgers with seaweed and Japanese mayonnaise. For dinner they serve works of art on a plate— try their sea bass with seasonal asparagus, celery mousseline, olive oil caviar and beurre blanc. At night, the lights go down and the music turns up—at the weekends it doesn’t stop until 3am. Vintage Aribau 179 www.restaurantvintage.es

a new concept  Chilean-born designer Jaime Beriestain recently opened the doors to his latest venture, a concept store and café-restaurant in the heart of the Eixample. Set in over 500 square metres, Beriestain wanted to bring together his passions for fine design and hospitality. In the store you’ll find restored vintage furniture, flowers, candles, international books, fragrances, hand created rugs and art pieces. The caférestaurant offers traditional cuisine as well as their own creative dishes. The kitchen is open daily from 8.30am to 11pm for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Evenings offer a wide selection of gin and tonics and live DJ sessions. Jaime Beriestain Restaurante Concept Store Pau Claris 167 www.beriestain.com

fixie-ing your bike  Is your bike in need of some TLC? Newly-opened Bicious is the Raval’s latest addition to the city’s bicycle scene. The industrial-looking workshop offers colourful fixed-gear bikes, bright orange saddles and eye-catching bamboo frames. Bicious aims for an interesting fusion of biking, coffee and the occasional art exhibition. They sell, repair and customise bikes and brew up a great coffee (free if you ask for it). So shoot the breeze with other customers and artists while the staff doctors away on your two-wheeler. Bicious, Lluna 3 www.bicious.com

BARCELONA’S BEST

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ROMANTIC SPOTS

1  PARC DEL LABERINT D’HORTA

It’s Valentine’s Day this month so reconnect with the city’s romantic side.

 PARC DEL MIRADOR DEL MIGDIA

This neoclassical garden oozes romance. Pretend you’re from days gone by and lose yourselves in the high geometric hedges of the maze. Pg. dels Castanyers 1

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Enjoy one of the city’s best views, then take a stroll around Montjuïc’s castle and gardens. End the day over a glass of wine, watching the sun go down at La Caseta restaurant. Montjuïc

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IN THE CITY 07

members only 

West-London private members’ club and regular hang-out spot of Prince Harry and chums, is the latest addition to Barcelona’s club scene. With venues in London, Hong Kong and now the Catalan capital, Boujis has become a notorious nocturnal playground for international A-listers and the superrich. Situated alongside some of the city’s most exclusive bars and clubs in the Sant Gervasi area, Boujis Barcelona is a worthy contender, with restaurant, cocktail bar and club, all under the same roof. The London branch comes with a pricey annual membership fee, which Barcelona is yet to introduce. So, there’s no time like the present to party like GaGa without selling a kidney. Boujis, Tuset 3 www.boujisbcn.com

original version  Things just keep getting better for Barcelona’s cinema goers. Hot on the trail of the new Zumzeig Cine Bistro in Sants and the renovated Boliche on Diagonal, comes Balmes Multicines in Sant Gervasi. The high-tech original version multiplex is owned by Grup Balaña— proprietors of several cinemas and theatres in the city­. With 12 salas, all equipped for 3D films, and a total capacity of over 1600 people, it’s now the biggest VO cinema in Barcelona. Despite the doom and gloom of the past few years, the demand for original version and cine d’auteur happily shows no signs of abating. Balmes Multicines, Balmes 422-424 www.grupbalana.com

3  PLAÇA SANT FELIP NERI

With its decadent feel, this small square is one of the Barri Gótic’s most peaceful corners. Sit under the shade of the trees by the centre fountain and feel like you’re far away from the masses.

4  ALAIRE TERRACE BAR

Overlooking La Pedrera and the Sagrada Familia, this classy rooftop terrace offers fine cocktails, a variety of tapas. Relax with your lover to the sounds of jazz, bossa nova and boleros. Hotel Condes, Passeig de Gràcia 73, 8th floor

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08 IN THE CITY

el barómetro Twenty cinemas in Barcelona have joined the “Cinema on Wednesdays” initiative, offering cheaper tickets every Wednesday until April 15th. The Montjuïc Magic Fountain will be back in business from February 7th after a month of maintenance work. Shows are scheduled on Fridays and Saturdays, every half hour, between 7pm and 8.30pm until April 30th. Barcelona registered its lowest ever number of traffic-accident fatalities in 2013, with a 26 percent reduction since 2012. The Mobile World Congress, taking place between February 24th and 27th, will provide 7,220 jobs and leave around €365m in the city. More bad news for Barcelona’s bookshops. The city has already said goodbye to Canuda, Platón and Roquer, and on January 31st it bid adéu to Excellence. Specialised in business and self-help books Excellence had suffered a 30 percent drop in sales since the beginning of the recession. People are still leaving Barcelona in search of greener pastures elsewhere. The number of foreigners living in the Barcelona region decreased by 2.53 percent between 2012 and 2013.

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STRIP & DIP It’s high season for calçots, so make sure you don’t miss out on this tasty Catalan ritual.

O

riginally developed in Valls in Tarragona 100 years ago, the juicy calçot is eaten all over Catalunya during the winter season. These sweet white onions are planted during the autumn and, as they grow, more soil is layered around the stems. This results in the sprouting of several shoots that grow to resemble small leeks. Harvest starts in November and continues until April, with high season falling between January and March. The finest way to enjoy this deliciously mild onion is as the locals do: at a calçotada with plenty of friends, wine and often some hearty meat as a second course. More than just a barbecue, the calçotada is a ritual. They usually take place in merenderos--public barbecues in the countryside. The calçots are grilled directly over a large flame for about five minutes each side until they turn black on the outside. Then they are wrapped in newspaper and served on curved terracotta roof tiles. Eating calçots requires a certain skill and bibs are a must. To perform the task correctly, if not elegantly, hold the onion upright with one hand gripping the centre of the green leaves at the top: then pull down on the bulb with your other hand. The dirty leaves peel off, leaving you with a clean, white calçot to dip into the salvtixtada (or salsa de calçots). Salvitxada is very similar to Romesco sauce but has a thicker, creamier consistency. The key ingredients are tomatoes, onions, almonds and garlic, but there are as many variations as there are towns in Catalunya. If you don’t get the chance to attend a grand calçotada, you can always head to a rural masía or any of the places listed on the right:

METROPOLITAN PEOPLE LINDSEY Journalist, USA

A: When I just moved to Barcelona, I went on the classic motorcycle-tourdate with a Spanish guy. Romantic and cliché. But I loved it!

SAN SALVADOR A 25-minute drive from the city, this masía has been preparing hearty Catalan food for three generations Sant Salvador s/n, Montaña, Vilassar de Dalt www.calsenyor.com/restaurant-sant-salvador CAN MANEL Located in Sants, this restaurant is dedicated exclusively to grilled meats, snails and calçots. Galileu 85 www.canmanel.es CAN PUNYETES Specialising in grilled food, their concise menu offers great Catalan classics at a good price. Located uptown. Mariá Cubi 189 www.canpunyetes.com CAN CARBONELL Located in Collserola, you can reach this typical Catalan masía in just 15 minutes from the city centre. Specialised in calçots. Carretera de la Muntanya s/n www.cancarbonell.com CAN XURRADES Besides their special Menú de calçotada, this restaurant is known for its 100 percent ecologically-raised Iberian “Kobe” Beef. Gran de Gràcia 57 www.canxurrades.com

Q. WHAT WAS YOUR MOST MEMORABLE DATE? JOSHUA Paralegal, Spain

A: My then-girlfriend planned to come over from Paris and then we would road-trip back. I bought her a plane ticket, rented a car and booked a hotel.She never showed and ignored my messages. Tragic right?

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IN THE CITY 09

RECIPE

CALÇOTS WITH SALVITXADA (serves 4) Impress your friends by serving them calçots with homemade salvitxada. All the better if you have a barbecue, but if not, the oven will do just fine. Chef Cándido Cid from Barcelona Cooking school (www.barcelonacooking.net) shares his favourite way to prepare this seasonal Catalan favourite. (Serves four).

CALÇOTS 24 calçots To prepare the calçots, take off any rough outer leaves, trim the green stems and cut off the very tip of the base (be careful not to cut off too much or the calçot will fall apart). Wash the calçots thoroughly then lay them side-by-side in an oven tray. Drizzle some olive oil over them and season with salt. Bake in the oven at min 220º for about 15 minutes or until the skins have darkened.

SALTVITXADA Ingredients: 3 dried sweet red peppers 2 onions 3 tomatoes A bulb of garlic 30 gr. hazelnuts

30 gr. almonds A cup of oil A slice of stale bread 2/3 tbsp of sherry vinegar Salt to taste

Halve the onions and garlic bulbs and place on a baking tray. Drizzle with oil, season with salt, then cover with foil and bake in the oven at 180º for 30-40 minutes. At the same time, on another tray, halve the tomatoes, drizzle with oil, season with salt and bake for 30-40 minutes uncovered. Soak the dried peppers in warm water for 10 minutes, then extract the flesh by scraping out the skin inside with a knife. Toast the almonds, hazelnuts and the bread in the oven or in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Then, mix all the ingredients together in a bowl and blend them, adding a little oil and vinegar at a time until you have a smooth paste. Salt to taste.

JI-EUN Student, South Korea

A: Three years ago, my exboyfriend, who was a soldier away on training, sent me lots of chocolate and candy on Valentine’s Day. I never felt so loved!

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HARVEY Promoter, United Kingdom

A: I took a girl on a date on a boat on the sea once. We ran out of petrol and had to row back to shore for four hours…

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10 THIS MONTH

ON THE COVER

Photographer Aimee McLachlan www.aimeemclachlan.com I was born in Liverpool, England and started travelling when I was 18, taking advantage of my summer holidays from university to explore new countries. My passion for photography followed soon afterwards. When I was 21 I moved to London and got a job working for an advertising company. In my spare time, I studied fashion photography at London College of Fashion, and began to seek freelance work within the London fashion industry. In 2011, I travelled to South America and then held an exhibition in my home city of my wildlife and travel shots from my trip. I have now been living in Barcelona for a year, and am still busy discovering everything the city has to offer. Barcelona is an exciting, vibrant and international city. I never miss any of the festivals in the city I always avoid walking down La Rambla on hot summer days. View. The panoramic views of the city and the sea from Bunker del Carmel are really worth the climb up there. Building. Casa Batlló. It might be a tourist trap, but it really reminds me of when I first came to Barcelona as a child. inspiration. Palau Robert does some excellent art and photography exhibitions which are really worth visiting and are free. place to go with friends. My favourite place to go with friends is Reset Bar, on Neu de Sant Cugat in the Born. It’s got a lovely, friendly atmosphere and a great range of international beers. On my to-do list: Visit some of the countryside around the city. the cover. I took this photo at the Jardines de les Tres Xemeneies. The park is one of the few in Barcelona to offer a space where street artists can express their work. I feel there is a real passion for art in Barcelona, and this is one of the things which first drew me to the city.

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THIS MONTH 11

NINE to FIVE

Mila Nikolova JOB: FREELANCE Social media marketER AGE: 29 FROM: BULGARIA LIVED IN Barcelona: FOUR YEARS WHAT I DO I started my own company, Sociaw, two years ago. Since then, I’ve worked with a lot of startups and big brands. I’m currently working with a new organisation called I AM MONO. They donate ten percent of the income from the t-shirts they produce to groups related to the prevention and treatment of eating disorders. They also have a website and an online shop. I’m responsible for their social media—the Facebook and Instagram accounts. We’re going to hold an event in Barcelona in the next few months. Sociaw works with a few companies, including Meliá Hotels and start-ups GetApp, Zyncro, Easypromos, Hall St and Natural Machines. I’m in charge of the Facebook, Twitter and Google+ accounts for Sol Hotels, and we also do sporadic campaigns such as contests for other brands. A couple of years ago we did a big project for TRYP Hotels for the opening of their new hotel in New York. I coordinated the Facebook campaign for the opening. We tripled the number of fans in three weeks from 7,000 – 21,000. I was in charge of setting up the application for the contest, the advertisements, and the social media communication around it. MY WORKING DAY I work from home most of the time and I have a network of graphic designers, other social media professionals, web developers, and programmers. The idea was to have a cloud-based agency, so we never needed a physical office. We all work online – we’re all over the place, not only in Spain but also abroad. MY ADVICE As we all know, Spain in general is not an easy market right now, but I do think that there is an opportunity for certain industries, and the internet industry is one of them. Barcelona is becoming a hub for startup companies with low budgets, eliminating the office space. www.facebook.com/sociaw Do you have an interesting job? Tell us about it. Email: editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com

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12 culture

CALENDAR FEBRUARY 2014

CLASSICAL MUSIC

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2

Sports

Palau de la Música Catalana Palau de la Música 4-6

casa elizalde València 302

The Chamber Choir of the Palau de la Música performs works by contemporary, multi-disciplinary Spanish artist and composer, Carles Santos.

 Everyone has to see FC Barce-

Peter Schimdt performs Suites by Bach and Britten for violin.

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FILM filmoteca de catalunya Salvador Seguí 1

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restaurante alba granados Enrique Granados 34

 Join the Business Lunch at its

monthly lunchtime networking. Go to www.thebizlunch.com to reserve your place.

NETWORKING

MUSIC

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TWO MARKETS Carder 12

Fundació Joan Miró Parc de Montjuïc

 Great live flamenco music and dance every Friday night at Jazz Sí Club.

Music, song and poetry in the Cabaret Patufet, a colourful show for children by Samfaina de Colors.

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MUSIC

 Join us for the monthly Guiri Business Drink, sponsored by Metropolitan. A relaxed way to meet new people...and the first drink is on us!

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MUSEU DE LA MOTO Palla 10

 Don't miss this quirky collection of original vehicle prototypes that never made it to mass production.

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children

Jazz Sí Club Requesens 2

CINco jotas Las Arenas, Gran Via 373-375

EXHIBITION

this edition of the twice-monthly second-hand market. It's on from 4pm til 9pm, but get there early for the best bargains.

as percussion and instruments in a performance that combines poetry, song, drama and humour.

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★ PHOTOGRAPHY

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Palau de la Virreina La Rambla 99

 Check out A Cop d'Ull, an exhibition of old and contemporary photographs of Barcelona before it ends in March. You'll see the city from a new perspective.

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 It's vintage-clothes-only for

 Fátima Miranda uses her voice

flamenco

VINTAGE MARKET

centre cultural del born Plaça Comercial 12

 Screening of Kind Hearts and Coronets, Robert Hamer's 1949 portrait of Louis d'Ascoyne Mazzini, an artistocrat-turned-murderer.

NETWORKING

lona play at least once. This might be a great opportunity as the Blaugranas play Valencia CF.

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CLASSICAL MUSIC

Camp nou Aristides Maillol 12

21

22

dance

palau de la Música Palau de la Música 4-6

macba Plaça Àngels 1

 Greek singer Nana Mouskouri is back on stage to celebrate her 79th birthday with her Happy Birthday Tour.

 Contemporary dancer, Iris

MUSIC TEATRE BARTS Av. Paral.lel 62

Helzinger invites the public to Breve Ensayo Sobre la Nada, a performance that only aims to live the present moment.

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 Experimental American singersongwriter Bill Callahan will take the stage at BARTS with his latest work; the acclaimed Dream River.

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culture 13

For more information visit our website www.barcelona-metropolitan.com and follow us on Facebook and Twitter BCNMetropolitan

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5

DANCE mercat de les flors Lleida 59

 Dance company Mal Pelo presents L’esperança de vida d’una llebre, a reflection on time and memory. (Until the 9th).

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CHILDREN gran teatre del liceu La Rambla 51-59

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 It's the last chance to catch this adaptation of Mozart's The Magic Flute for children.

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dance parc de la ciutadella

 Try out your moves in the park´s bandstand with other Barcelona Lindy-dancers. Lindy al Parc is organised by BCN Swing. Find more details of the group at www. bcnswing.org

CLASSICal MUSIC

MUSIC Sala Apolo La Rambla 113

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 One of the top bands to watch right now. British band, Savages bring their indie rock to Barcelona.

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L'Auditori Lepant 150

 Last night to see Josep Pons

conduct the Gran Teatre del Liceu's Orquestra Simfònica performing Bruckner's "Romàntica" Fourth Symphony in l'Auditori.

MUSIC LA Pedrera Provença 261-265

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 Enjoy a tasty supper in beautiful

surroundings accompanied by the dulcet tones of Brazilian singer Luna Cohen.

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children palau sant jordi Passeig Olímpic 5-7

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 Give the kids a treat and take them to Disney on Ice, with all their favourite Disney princesses... (Until March 2nd)

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14 culture

0 editor’s pick

Blues it up

Blues Sessions. Every Friday until March 28th, 6pm. MEAM. Barra de Ferro 5. www.lahoradelblues.com. Every Friday in February and March, the Museo Europeo de Arte Moderno (MEAM) will host afternoon blues sessions organised by La Hora del Blues, Barcelona’s legendary blues radio show. Local and international acts will blues things up in the beautiful Renaissance-style Palau Gomis. In February, L’Armónica Blues Summit will feature a new talented duo every Friday, accompanied by Oscar Rabadán and Julio Lobos with their superb guitar and piano playing. Included in the €11 ticket price is a visit to the museum, so you can listen to great blues and watch modern figurative art, all with a drink in hand.

strumming and picking

Guitar Festival Barcelona. February 20th til May 20th. www.theproject.es. One of the city’s most iconic festivals, the Guitar Festival Barcelona celebrates its 25th anniversary this year. Over the last quarter of a century the festival has welcomed top local and international guitar players and bands and more recently the organisers have made a concerted effort to appeal to a young, urban audience with more indie and rock acts. In fact, much of the event’s pulling power lies in the wide range of genres that it showcases, from Spanish guitar to hard rock and just about everything in between. Opening the festival on February 20th in Teatre BARTS is London-based indie band Fanfarlo, followed by Spanish singer Rosario who presents her new album in the Palau de la Música on March 5th. Other highlights of this year’s festival include UK old-timers The Stranglers on April 1st at Teatre BARTS, Spanish singer Luz Casal at the Palau de la Música on March 20th and UK-based group Crystal Fighters who will bring their unique brand of alternative guitar-based dance music to Sant Jordi Club on May 15th. Closing the festival on May 20th will be Argentine Andrés Calamaro at Razzmatazz.

Independent music festival

Minifestival. February 22nd, 7pm. Espai Jove Les Basses. Teide 20. www.minifestival.net. Barcelona’s own independent music festival, aptly named Minifestival, is returning for its 19th edition this month. With more acts every year, this small festival is gradually turning into one of Barcelona’s quality music events. This year, three UK-based ensembles will indie-rock the stage: Drugstore, The Electric Soft Parade and Nick Garrie. Besides that, up-and-coming Spanish bands like The Yellow Melodies and Band à Part will gear up their best tunes. Don’t miss this eclectic and raving parade of great independent music. Tickets are only €10. Plus, there’s a free concert at FNAC Diagonal on February 15th.

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HARD ROCK SESSIONS

The Spiks. February 13th, 10pm. Hard Rock Cafe. Pl. Catalunya 21. Every Thursday night the Hard Rock Cafe offers free concerts by up-and-coming local bands. Metropolitan has teamed up with them to sponsor a different act each month. This month we’re bringing you The Spiks, a Barcelona-based band originally from the UK. This four-piece have just released their first album, Jumping The Fence. Expect the sounds of 60’s British rock, Britpop and garage rock with hints of psychedelic rock. You can read an online interview with The Spiks at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

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culture 15

7TH. NGUZUNGUZU Pronounced “en-goo-zoo-en-goo-zoo”, this duo cover an eclectic kaleidoscope of sounds with a mix of dance, R&B and bass music. Razzmatazz. Almogàvers 122. 7TH. UTE LEMPER The German singer is back in Barcelona with her new show Forever: The Love Poems of Pablo Neruda Palau de la Música, Palau de la Música, 4-6, 8th. JAMES ARTHur Winner of the 2012 edition of UK TV talent show The X-Factor, Arthur is now touring for his 2013 debut album. His singles always fly up the UK charts. Bikini. Déu i Mata 105. 12th. TORI SPARKS Our very own Tori Sparks will take the stage with her blend of folk, rock and blues. Don’t miss her for her often humorous live shows and unconventional lyrics. B Hotel. Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 389-391. 13th. BEADY EYE The men from Oasis (except for Noel) have been playing the European festivals for a few years now and Liam Gallagher always surprises on stage. Great Britrock. Razzmatazz. Almogàvers 122. 15th. KAISER CHIEFS One of the world’s biggest indie rock acts, this British quintet will definitely get the crowd screaming Ruby back to them. They will probably play some tunes from their new album, which is set for a March release. Palau Sant Jordi. Pg. Olimpic 5-7. 19TH. MAARTEN SWAN VS MELOU Dutch singer-songwriter Maarten Swan takes the stage with Annie Goodchild. Helioglobal. Ramón y Cajal 80

presents

20th. BACKSTREET BOYS The boys are back in Barcelona. The rejuvenated boy wonders will perform their oldies and songs from their 2013 album In a World Like This. Palau Sant Jordi. Pg. Olimpic 5-7. 21st. BOMBAY BICYCLE CLUB The British indie group will bring songs from their upcoming February album to Barcelona. Don’t miss their fantastic guitar sound. Bikini. Déu i Mata 105. 26th. THE ORIGINAL WAILERS Al Anderson and his fellow reggae-ites are mostly known for their work with Bob Marley, but their own songs are just as good to chill out to and carry on the One Love message. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 26th - March 1st. SKRILLEX The eccentric American bass-dropper will take over Barcelona for four days with his booming dubstep. 26th: Moog. 27th: Razzmatazz. Almogàvers 122. 28th: Sala BeCool. Pl. Joan Llongueras 5. 1st: Ker Club 28th. ThE WANTED The successful English-Irish boy band will perform their dance-pop in the Razzmatazz. Be sure to bring your dancing shoes in order to walk like Rihanna. Razzmatazz. Almogàvers 122.

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16 culture

0 editor’s pick

Overdose on art www.circuitartcontemporani.cat.

For the first time, the Barcelona Art Association unites 37 cultural spaces, committed to promoting and defending emerging contemporary artists, by designing a circuit around the city. Two and a half metre poles designed by Josep M. Civit can be spotted scattered around the city, topped by a light blue or pink ‘pill’. The pink identifies galleries and the blue pinpoints museums, foundations and art centres. These posts are interactive and fully equipped with QR codes for smart phones that take you to the circuit map and programme online. Published guides can be found at information points around the city. Barcelona is the first major metropolis in the world to introduce such an initiative. Get your dose.

Homage to Victor Mira

Galería Ignacio de Lassaletta. Until late February. Eude. Until March 15th. N2 Galería. Until late February. A decade after his tragic death at the age of 54, Víctor Mira’s work is gracing gallery walls in honour of his numerous contributions to the worlds of art, literature and theatre. Mira was a pure and radical artist full of expression. He was known as a physical and mental traveller, on a constant journey for inner truth. His works reflect his personal vision of the world, often fraught with pessimism or ferocious irony, and with a constant presence of symbols and allegories about death. Three galleries in Barcelona are collaborating to showcase the talents of this self-taught painter, engraver, sculptor, and writer. The homage also commemorates his title as best artist of the Feria de ARCO in 2003.

ON THE EDGE

Entorn 1900. Until May 17th. Arxiu Fotogràfic de Barcelona. Pl. Pons i Clerch 2. www.bcn.cat/arxiufotografic. This photographic exhibition takes us out to the mountains that marked the outskirts of Barcelona at a time when the city was growing with the annexation of the towns and villages along its borders. Entorn 1900 allows us to explore the pathways of Collserola, reaching from Pedralbes at one end to the mountains of Horta at the other, passing through the Putxet and Carmel hills along the way. The photographs are exhibited in chronological order, spanning the turn of the nineteenth century into the twentieth century, a period in which photography had already developed, with multiple techniques being used by both professional and amateur photographers.

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culture 17

OPENING THIS MONTH MACBA Grup R, Motor of Modernity. Retracing the ideas and works of this group of architects whose actions contributed to the consolidation of a vernacular form of modern aesthetics under the Franco regime. February 6th - June 24th. Antoni Abad, Megaphone.net/2004-2014. Four of these projects were conducted by blind people with impaired mobility, using telephones with GPS to photograph and publish the obstacles and architectural barriers found in the street. February 18th – June 24th. Plaça dels Àngels 1. N2 Galeria Btoy, Multitudes. Barcelona’s dynamic street art duo has been filling the influential Catalan street art scene with their retro fantasy worlds for years. From February 6th. Enric Granados 61. 3 PUNTS GALERIA Juan Carlos Nadal. Nadal explores spatial possibilities through his powerful graphics, based on wide patches of colour that form solid constructions. February 12th – March 22nd. Enric Granados 21. FUNDACIÓ SUÑOL Nada Se Detiene. A collection of creations from 1915 to 2008 that look at the interaction between concepts such as body, identity, landscape and city. February 12th – May 3rd. Passeig de Gràcia 98. MISCELANEA Agente Morillas. Home is where the heart is, and I’m living in the forest. A personal project of illustrations in which reality and fiction merge into a fantasy story with autobiographical overtones. February 19th – March 9th. Guardia 10.

LAST CHANCE FUNDACIÓ JOAN MIRÓ Before the Horizon. An anachronistic gathering of painted and photographed horizons with an occasional foray into sculpture, installation and land art. Until February 16th. Parc de Montjuïc, s/n. GALERIA CONTRAST Ka Cho Fu Getsu, Flower, Bird, Wind, Moon. A Japanese biologist’s view of life on earth through the beauty of nature. Until February 22nd. Consell de Cent 281. FOUSION GALLERY Juan José Surace, Esa extraña compañía. An ironic and surreal look at some challenging topics: Death, religion, power, sexuality and bad manners. Surace’s universe is governed by a thoughtful and dark sense of humour. Until February 28th. Carassa 4, Principal 2da.

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18 culture

0 editor’s pick

CARNIVAL TIME

February 27th til March 5th. Sitges is the place to head for carnival. The town welcomes over 300,000 revellers to its colourful celebrations. Festivities kick off on Thursday 27th with the arrival of the exuberant carnival king, Carnestoltes, a loud advocate of all things fun and sinful. He leads the parades until his demise on March 5th (Ash Wednesday). The main parades are the Rua de la Disbauxa (Debauchery Parade) on Sunday, March 2nd and the Rua de l’Extermini (Extermination Parade) on Tuesday, March 4th, when the town bids a sad farewell to the king. Carnival in Barcelona is a more low key event, with each neighbourhood in charge of its own celebrations. Markets and civic centres organise events for children, parades and masked balls. The biggest city parade is held on Parallel on Friday, March 3rd, and brings together about 2,000 participants and 60 floats.

THE SOUND OF SILENCE

The Quiet Volume.February 10th-15th. Biblioteca Nacional de Catalunya. Carrer de l’Hospital 56. www.mercatflors.cat. The Quiet Volume, co-created by Ant Hampton and Tim Etchells is a selfgenerating show for two people in which the only actors are the two participants themselves. Originally commissioned as part of itinerant festival, Parallel Cities, the show has visited many libraries around the globe. The Quiet Volume explores the particular tension common to all libraries worldwide; a combination of silence and concentration where different reading experiences unfold and where our imaginations run riot. The two participants sit side by side and receive instructions in the form of both written words and whispered words through headphones. They find themselves burrowing an unlikely path through a pile of books and entering the strange magic at the heart of the reading experience. The show is in Castillian and takes place at the Biblioteca Nacional de Catalunya and if you’d like to experience it for yourself, tickets can be reserved at the Mercat de les Flors website (see above).

FREE FOR ALL

GratiFeria. February 28th. 11am-3pm. Parc de la Ciutadella. www.grati-feria.com. One man’s trash is another man’s treasure, so they say. And that is just the point of the GratiFeria. The term was coined in Argentina in 2010 when Ariel Rodrígues Bosio set up the first ever GratiFeria as a way to promote collaborative consumption, reduce waste and ensure that no one goes without. The idea spread rapidly across the globe and reached Barcelona in 2012. You can bring along anything that you no longer want or use such as clothes, shoes, appliances and books. And, you can help yourself to anything that you see and need. Unlike an exchange market, there’s no obligation to bring anything at all. The GratiFeria takes place on the last Sunday of every month.

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MINI MOZART

Ma, Me, Mi...Mozart. February 8th, 9th, 15th, 16th. L’Auditori. Lepant 150. www.auditori.cat. Finally, a concert you can take your child to and not worry about them disturbing anyone. Ma, Me, Mi...Mozart introduces Mozart’s music to children from the age of two. Twenty-one short pieces by the composer are interpreted by a range of instruments, including voice, accordion, clarinet, violin and flugelhorn. To keep the young audience involved with the music, the arrangements introduce many different rhythms, harmonies and styles. Eye-catching costumes and stage set, and engaging musicians ensure that the concert is lively enough to keep the interest of even the most restless child.

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culture 19

STILL DOING THE TIME WARP

The Rocky Horror Picture Show 7th anniversary. March 1st, 7pm. Music Hall. Rambla de Catalunya 2-4. www.musichall.es. Seven years ago, the Rocky Horror Picture Show Unofficial Fan Club organised its first screening of the 1975 cult classic in Barcelona’s Music Hall. Despite torrential rain, the room quickly filled with people decked in wigs, boas and fishnets and armed with water pistols. Cue lots of singing, dancing, shouting and general mayhem, and a regular event at the Music Hall was born. To celebrate their seventh anniversary there’s a double bill on March 1st, starting with surreal comedy, Top Secret at 7pm and followed by The Rocky Horror Picture Show at 9pm. Rocky Horror “virgins” shouldn’t worry as there are actors on hand to liven things up and show you the ropes. Just don’t forget your balloon, rice, gloves and toilet roll: the fan club website www.rhps.es tells you exactly how to dress and what to bring.

trust & betrayal

Harket (Protocolo). Until February 16th. La Seca Espai Brossa. Flassaders 40. www.laseca.cat. Welcome to the world of multidisciplinary transmedia. Dance, humour, music, theatre, design and videomapping are used to explore the themes of trust and betrayal in Harket (Protocolo) by Juan Pablo Medina. Cristina Harket (Cristina Fernández) is a young research volunteer, and is investigating the chances of surviving in a bunker with only the help of an artificial intelligence system. Something goes awry and the bunker doors close, trapping Cristina inside. The short experiment turns into two years. The performance takes a look at our intense need to create close bonds even with non-humans. Spectators are invited to share their experiences through the performance’s blog and social networks.

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1/23/14 12:09:05 PM


GUIRI BUSINESS DRINK February 2014 Networking 19th February

Metropolitan presents this month’s business networking event

of 6000 + members

For more information and to RSVP please visit www.GuiriBusiness.com

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CULTURE 21

Stories worth telling Robin Willis provides a platform for foreign residents at Xpat Stories. By Tori Sparks.

Next Xpat Stories: February 21st, 9pm Espai d’Arte Puntoaparte, Calandries 10 www.puntoaparte.eu/ Theme: From here to over there.

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A

nyone who has ever flown the nest to live in a far-off land has a coming-of-age story. Those terrible moments that, over time, morph into hilarious anecdotes. The adventures for newcomers to Barcelona are often shot through with similar ironies, as American television commercial director Robin Willis noticed. He created Xpat Stories, a series of live performances that has been running for well over a year. Robin is originally from Portland, Oregon. He brought his family to Barcelona over 12 years ago when he was invited by a Spanish production company to collaborate on projects in Europe. “We found ourselves zipping around between the USA, Canada, Germany and Spain, doing spots for clients like Coca Cola, Movistar, Delta Airlines and ESPN.” The jetlag and demanding schedule soon wore on his young daughter and it seemed a better idea to base themselves somewhere on this side of this Atlantic. They were torn between Munich and Barcelona. The deciding factor was the gigantic apartment in the Eixample that the Spanish producers at Zindara offered to the Willis family, free of charge. “I used to call it King Juan Carlos’ apartment,¨ he laughs. Three months later the relationship with Zindara soured when the company decided that the family should pay for the flat. “The price was astronomical, and we were still paying the mortgage on our place in LA—which we’d left to try out this little European experiment,” Robin says. “But then they came up with this great idea. They would take care of my way-pastdue directing fees by paying for the rent! What a train wreck.” Robin and his family found a new production company and a new place to live. “This one with only one bathroom, and a much smaller terrace,” he says wryly. Robin points out that this is exactly the type of stories that people tell at his events. He offers the disclaimer that, “this does not reflect how I feel about Spain, Catalunya,

my lovely local friends, my pals at the mercado, my next door neighbours. I love it here with all of my heart, but I’ve been here long enough to see beyond the jamón and the Mediterranean weather.” Robin says that it struck him as important to bring together the foreigners in the local community to share their experiences. The project is very casera—his recording studio is located in his kitchen, and the live performances take place in small bars and arts centres in the Raval. Robin rarely insists on a theme, he just keeps his eyes open for those with a story to tell. He did experience some controversy with his most recent show. He suggested a theme involving romantic/sexual relationships between people from different cultures, as told from the female perspective. “The idea came from listening to expat women complain about relationships with Spanish men. Many of the stories I was hearing were really funny. There is obviously a tragic component as well, but mostly there was a touching human quality that I reacted to and could relate to. I thought it would be good entertainment.” The night turned out to be more complicated than he expected. “Love. Sex. That field is so littered with land mines that we seem to keep happily stepping on... The evening troubled me in a pretty deep way. I mean the whole gender/sexuality/cultural stereotypes/long term/short term hook up subtext was really eye-opening.” He also received some blacklash from women who viewed the topic as sexist or exploitative. He says that the next show, in February, will have a non-gender-specific theme about Spanish people who have made the move to the US and their experiences on the other side of the Atlantic. He comments that it’s tough to make this kind of project work, especially in Barcelona where there is so much competition for the public’s attention, time and money. But, when he hears the stories both live and as a podcast, he feels that it’s still worth doing.

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22 FEATURE

Stanislav “Stanis” Voytsehovskyy has been playing on the underground for four years.

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FEATURE 23

BARCELONA

BUSKING An irritation to some and a welcome distraction to others, buskers are very much a part of the city’s cultural landscape. Text and photos by Marius Stankiewicz.

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lthough contortionists, snake charmers and barrel organ players have long been forgotten in the world of public performance, street entertainment still thrives today. Whether it is for selfexpression, self-preservation, or just for the love of the craft, buskers—a word which comes from buscar in Spanish, meaning to seek or to wander—are a colourful lot of artists who add their unique brushstroke to a city’s portrait. In Barcelona, of all the things that can be taken in on foot— Gaudí’s legacy, Catalan Modernisme, the Gothic quarter, living statues and caricaturists on La Rambla—also to be admired are the transit musicians who twang, harmonise or serenade, wherever permitted, to any strolling flâneur or rubbernecking tourist. I’ve always been fascinated by transit musicians and what makes them tick, so I took to the streets not only to show my appreciation but to get to know a few of them. Twenty-one-year-old Karolina, from Poland, is a music student at the Barcelona conservatory. Her dream is to be a classical violinist and to be able to master Prokofiev and Sibelius. “It is my passion.” Karolina says, “I’ve been playing the violin since I was seven years old.” When asked about her favourite spot and her motivation to play in the subways, Karolina answers frankly: “Plaça Catalunya is the best place, in my opinion. I play in the underpass strictly to sustain myself as a student. In one hour, I could make, on average, sixty euros.” Xavi Rodellino Pérez, a “subterranean” musician in his forties, commutes fifty kilometres every day to play his favourite folk musicians, such as Cat Stevens and Bob Dylan. Playing the guitar and harmonica from an early age, it wasn’t until hearing Pink Floyd’s Wish You Were Here that he was inspired to showcase his own musical talents. “My motivation is the music,” he says. “With music, I found my way in life, dedicating myself to my instrument. I don’t write songs and it’s always been a great frustration that I couldn’t put more effort into writing, because of work and other things. Of course, playing in the subways also helps me earn a bit more than my normal salary.” Regarding his moments of glory, the best thing that has ever happened to Xavi was not only the €20 gratuity that he once received— still nothing like the €100 tip his musician friend brags about—but that his playing once moved a commuter to tears. The money means much less to him than the emotional response.

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It’s a nightmarish underpass for commuters but Passeig de Gràcia is Xavi’s favourite spot to play. And surely after hearing him sing “Fire and Rain” by James Taylor it is no wonder why he gets excited at this particular venue. Xavi’s soft melodic voice resonates well through the passage’s long and vestibular corridor, a kind of perfect acoustic that not only naturally amplifies his voice but makes the commuter’s transfer a little more bearable.

The best thing that has ever happened to Xavi was not the €20 gratuity that he once received but that his playing moved a commuter to tears.

But not all commuters regard the musicians in such a sentimental light, especially those musicians who play in the wagons. Sabrina, 22, a student of philosophy at UB said, “It is difficult to escape them when it’s too loud or if it’s an irritating playback.” Misunderstood in many parts of the world, buskers are a cultural phenomenon who will always be as much despised as they are appreciated. The old stereotype of the homeless alcoholic, or never-dogood vagrant has never quite been shaken off. With that in mind, the city has stepped in not only to broaden the public’s consciousness but to show that these talented artists deserve respect. They are as much a part of Barcelona’s art culture as Gaudí and the Catalan artists who grace the walls of the city’s museums. Twelve years ago, Transports Metropolitans de Barcelona (TMB) and the Ajuntament, in collaboration with AMUC (Associación de Músicos de la Calle), came together to establish rules and regulations regarding playing in the subways. The TMB describes the project as

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24 FEATURE

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“pioneer” and holds an annual street music festival over several days in the Autumn. Since the regulations were introduced, 600 musicians have been given licences that allow them to play legally at one of 38 points in the subways. To obtain the licence they must pass a “suitability” audition. According to the TMB, the aim of the programme is to regulate performances and to ensure that they are “compatible with the normal development of the metro’s services.” Besides the metro, there are 23 locations in Ciutat Vella where busking is allowed. Access is strictly regulated and musicians must first apply for an annual permit. Many buskers and their supporters, however, believe the regulations are unconstitutional and a violation of “sidewalk democracy.” Every week in Barcelona, an average of three “illegal” musicians are fined by the Guàrdia Urbana. The fines are a minimum of €190 and the equipment is confiscated and sent to a warehouse. If the fine is not paid in due time, the instruments are then donated to music schools all over the city. At the last count there were 230 sanctioned instruments ranging from bongos to expensive violins. Stanislav (“Stanis”) Voytsehovskyy, originally from the Ukraine, is the Vice-President of AMUC, a cultural association with over 500 members. The association’s objectives are to ensure that there is order, justice and equality in playing the underground system. They also organise workshops, renew licenses, support musicians with their recording studio and give artists the opportunity to play at bigger venues. I was recently invited to one of their concerts at Centre Cívic La Sedeta and was blown away by the openness of the musicians, their professionalism and the quality of the acts: The Spotshines, Casi el Mejor Trio de tu Vida, and of course, the headliner, Stanis’s own band, Banda Mutant.

Every week in Barcelona, an average of three “illegal” musicians are fined by the GuArdia Urbana.

Stanis has been living in Barcelona for 15 years and has been playing in the underground for the last four. I spoke to the tall, bearded Slav who reminded me of a biker in an outlaw motorcycle club. At Verdaguer, late in the night, while he was plugging in his electric guitar, I asked him about his story. “I came to Barcelona because, like many others, I was looking for a new life. I finished electrical engineering and worked at a factory. It was a company here in Barcelona manufacturing electrical devices, but being the last one in through the door, when the crisis hit, I was the first one out. So, I started playing on the streets. My first street stage was the Arc de Triomf.” In the middle of the interview we were interrupted by another musician, a Paraguayan man, whom Stanis had never met before. “You play blues? Hendrix?” he asked. “Not really,” replied Stanis, “mostly the Rolling Stones, the Beatles, the Who.” The brief exchange acknowledged their common struggle, and the man then started singing “Knocking on Heaven’s Door” into Stanis’ microphone. Stanis happily joined the impromptu session with a few

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chords until the unknown musician stopped and turned to him. “I haven’t been playing too much myself. Too many police reprimanding musicians,” he said. The exchange between Stanis and the Paraguayan man shows how a public area can easily be converted into a platform for creative artists. AMUC and other grassroots community organisations recognise the need for street artists to be able to keep on with their craft as well

Xavi Rodellino Pérez commuetes to the city every day to play on the metro.

as to have a place where they can connect, grow and develop, individually or in groups. There’s also a relationship between the artist and the wider community. It’s a complex relationship in which the right for self-expression and freedom to play anywhere is not necessarily embraced by all. And here is where, in Barcelona, the Ajuntament and TMB attempt to walk a fine line to keep everyone happy. Should musicians be able to strike up wherever they want? Does it matter how good they are? Or, is freedom a vital imperative for the growth of young individuals, and communities? Whatever your personal take might be, street musicians are an undeniably vibrant part of the cityscape. With organisations such as AMUC advocating for them and Barcelona’s status as an international tourist magnet, our commutes will be accompanied by music for a long time yet to come. So, don’t just toss a few coppers into an upturned fedora, but reach your hand out, introduce yourself, and eliminate that seemingly impersonal barrier separating them from the rest of society. You’re not paying for their silence, after all.

MORE INFORMATION Associación de Músicos de la Calle (AMUC) Tel. 93 310 3732 / 660 674 656 www.amuc.galeon.com The AMUC website has a list of the current regulations regarding playing on the metro and in open public spaces. Licences to play in a public space in Ciutat Vella are managed at the Centre Cívic Convent Sant Agustí. Details on how to apply can be found at: www.bcn.cat/centrecivicsantagusti

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26

FEATURE

REASSESSING HISTORY Recent excavations at the Maritime Museum have cast a new light on the building’s past and uncovered more of the city’s Roman heritage. By Xavier Macia.

The recent archeological and archival investigations have forced a reevaluation of the building and its site.

French and Spanish troops take the city after a year-long siege.

War of Independence against Spain

1705-1714

11 Sep 1714

Siege of Barcelona by Don Juan José of Austria ends the Catalan rebellion

1652

Catalan revolt against Spanish monarchy begins in Barcelona.

1640

Barcelona’s Jewish community massacred in anti-Jewish pogroms

1391

Corts Catalanes or Catalan Parliament established

Construction of Cathedral begins

1347-50

1357

Barcelona’s city government, the Consell de Cent, is established.

Barcelona becomes one of the most important Mediterranean ports.

1000-1200

1274

Count Borrell II achieves independence for Catalunya.

The majority of the still-existing structure dates from the late 16th and early 17th centuries. Although Barcelona lacked a proper port, a spit of land, where Barceloneta is today, provided ships a measure of protection from north winds. Unfortunately this also led to erosion of the beach in front of the Drassanes and as a result the medieval building was demolished and a new one built partly on the same lo-

Wilfred the Hairy (Guifré el Pilós), Count of Ripoll, unifies the Catalan counties and establishes the House of Barcelona.

The Franks under Louis the Pious take Barcelona.

801

880

The Moors invade Spain and capture Barcelona.

711

The Visigoths enter Spain and capture Barcelona.

The Romans capture the area around the future Barcelona.

27BC-AD14

415

The Carthaginians settle in the area

250BC

TIMELINE OF EVENTS IN BARCELONA 26-28. Maritime museumpdf.indd 2

as to encompass the Drassanes. For decades, history books and tourist guides have touted the Drassanes as one of Europe’s most important examples of industrial Gothic architecture, but the recent archeological and archival investigations have forced a reevaluation of the building and its site. Instead of being a Gothic structure from the 13th century, most of the actual building is now considered to have been built later “in the Gothic style.”

988

H

istory is a matter of sifting through often incomplete data and interpreting it in order to reach a conclusion. Sometimes new evidence comes to light and what was once dogma must be rethought and reinterpreted. This process has occurred with Barcelona’s Drassanes Reials, or the Royal Shipyards, over the course of two years of excavations. Located at the end of La Rambla near the Columbus monument and housing the Museu Marítim, the Drassanes is one of the city’s most emblematic buildings. Over the centuries, the building has served as military barracks, arsenal, munitions factory and even as part of the city’s perimeter wall. It was transferred to the Generalitat in 1936 with the intention of establishing a maritime museum, but the Civil War interfered with these plans and the Museu Marítim didn’t open its doors until 1941. The Drassanes was constructed to build, repair and store ships for the Crown of Aragon. Archival evidence suggests there was a shipyard on the present site prior to the 13th century. But, the current structure was built during the reign of Pere el Gran, between 1282 and 1285. It consisted of a series of long, covered bays under which ships could be assembled or repaired and was located just to the west of the city and outside of the city walls that roughly followed the line of the presentday La Rambla. The Drassanes was built on the beach so that ships could be easily launched or recovered and, in the winter, was used to store the ships of the King’s fleet because Barcelona lacked a proper harbour. As the fleet grew during the 14th and early 15th centuries, the shipyard was expanded and the city walls were also expanded so

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Jose Biel © Museu Marítim de Barcelona

FEATURE 27

Jose Biel © Museu Marítim de Barcelona Olympic Games held in Barcelona

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1992

First democratic general elections since 1936, and first local elections, won in Barcelona by Socialists.

1977-8

Franco dies on November 20th. King Juan Carlos oversees moves towards a restoration of democracy.

1975

Local economy begins to revive as tourism and foreign investment enter Spain.

1959-1960

1939 Barcelona falls to Franco’s troops

26th January

Spanish Civil War

1936-9

Second Spanish Republic proclaimed: Catalunya is given autonomy, with a restored Generalitat under Francesc Macià.

1931

Second Universal Exhibition is held on Montjuïc. The Plaça d’Espanya, Palau Nacional and Poble Espanyol are all built.

Military dictatorship of Primo de Rivera suppresses unions and Catalan freedom.

1923-30

1929

General strikes and riots in the city; buildings destroyed by anarchists

1901-1909

Universal Exhibition hosted in Barcelona

1888

September Revolution, against Queen Isabel II, begins six years of agitation.

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1868-73

Beginning of cotton trade with the Americas and the start of the city’s textile industry

1814

1715-16

Catalan institutions abolished. A fortress, La Ciutadella, is built in La Ribera district

cation but further inland. The recent archeological excavations have revealed the foundations of the piers of the older structure. The new Drassanes was also built in the Gothic style and this is what had confused historians: a building in the Gothic style but built later. Presumably, the original structure was found to be functional and when the new Drassanes was built, the same architectural style was used. This has explained some discrepancies that arose from the study of old documents. For example, how the Drassanes was depicted in Anton van der Wyngaerde’s well-known 1563 image of Barcelona had raised doubts about the painting’s accuracy. But research and excavations have shown that Wyngaerde’s image likely depicts the older building and not the present-day structure. The larger Drassanes also implied advances in the art of ship building between the 13th and 15th centuries. By the 15th century ships were getting bigger. Among the ships built here was the Real which served as Don Juan of Austria’s flagship during the pivotal battle of Lepanto in 1571 between Islamic and Christian forces. At the time, the Real was the largest galley in the world. In the 1970s the Maritime Museum built a full-size replica of

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28

FEATURE

Anton van der Wyngaerde’s 1563 image of Barcelona

the ship and it occupies one of the Drassanes central naves. It is the Maritime Museum’s showcase exhibit and the only piece not removed during the archeological and restoration work. The work has also added to our knowledge of Barcelona of two millennia ago. The archeological excavations under the building revealed a large Roman necropolis. The graves of more than one hundred individuals dating from the first and sixth centuries grant new insights into the Barcelona waterfront under the Romans. One important conclusion is that the land on which the building was obviously dry and some distance from the shore during the Roman era—the dead would not have been buried on an unstable beach. Another conclusion that can be drawn from the presence of the burial ground is that there was probably a road following the shoreline, as Roman cemeteries often lined the roads leading to the gates of a city. So, it’s likely that the Drassanes is situated on or near one of the old gates into Barcino, as the city was known under the Romans. A familiar example of the Roman custom of placing graves to line a roadway, are the Roman graves visible in the Plaça de la Vila de Madrid in the Barri Gotic. Also uncovered during the excavations were the remains of a mausoleum which will remain visible to museum visitors. This latest restoration work is the last phase of an ongoing project that began over 25 years ago. Excavations on the site and the restoration of the building began in 2010 and ended in 2012. The building itself has been upgraded with new heating and ventilation systems, an insulated roof and a new library and classroom spaces. The museum’s permanent exhibits were moved into storage during the work and the museum was reopened to the public in 2012 with temporary exhibitions only. It is expected that the museum’s permanent exhibits will be back on display later this year. We suggest you go and take a look.

MORE INFORMATION Museu Marítim Avda. de les Drassanes, s/n Every day: 10am-8pm (entrance until 7.30pm). After 3pm on Sundays, entrance is free. www.mmb.cat

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The archeological excavations under the building revealed a large Roman necropolis.

Jose Biel © Museu Marítim de Barcelona

>>

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30 FEATURE

A PASSION

FOR THE KITCHEN

Chefs in the Barri GOtic take it all in their stride. Text and photos by Tori Sparks.

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he Barri Gótic is packed with restaurants catering to all tastes and budgets, and is also one of the most historic and touristic neighbourhoods in Spain. Before talking to some of the chefs who are in charge of these kitchens, I was expecting to hear horror stories on par with reality television—about the stress of the frenetic rhythm, the gruelling hours on their feet, and the hassle of dealing with rude clients. Surprisingly, three different chefs from three different kinds of restaurant were all uniformly laid back, as they lovingly described the day-to-day details of their jobs. JESÚS ORTEGA MARIN AT CLEMEN’S Jesús Ortega Marin is the chef at Clemen’s, a bar that has been located in the back of the Boquería since 1976. It’s a magical corner of the market that offers heaped plates of savoury tapas and vermut, served on sparkling jet-black countertops. Over 200 people may come through on an average day and everyone is personally greeted by the owner, Albert, and his wife and son. Chef Jesús has to keep up with this flow of clientele from 7am until 4pm, six days a week. “You can buy €900 worth of seafood and still run out before the end of a busy day,” he says. “Sounds crazy, but it’s true.” Jesús has been working in the hospitality and food industry for 35 years, starting out as a planchista in 1978 in a Frankfurter shop on Carrer Sant Pau. “It’s a question of practice,” he says. “Like anything, you get better with time, and after enough experience you can adapt to almost any situation.” He says that in spite of the hectic turnover rate at Clemen’s, the trick is to never forget to respect the dish you’re making. “Don’t be in a hurry. If you rush the base, for example the sofrito—the red peppers, onions, tomatoes, spices—the food will not come out right. You have to know your environment and how to control the elements within it, so that you can produce the best flavours possible.” He says that the goal at the bar is to make good-quality, tasty dishes that leave every customer happy. “The psychology of the restaurant business trains you to deal with a customer who orders a tapa in the same way as a big party with a hefty bill. You never know whether that guy who just wanted a coffee might come back and bring a bunch of friends. It’s important to remember that you’re not only the chef, you’re a part of a complicated business machine.”

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In spite of the long hours, Jesús says that his job has never felt like a job. “It doesn’t feel like work, I’m never looking at my watch. To work in this business, especially at a place with as much movement as Clemen’s, you really have to love it.” LEONARDO DORADO CAMPOS AT LA PALMERA Right around the corner from Clemen’s is the historic La Palmera, tucked away on Carrer Jerusalem. Leonardo Dorado Campos is the head chef as well as the owner, and he prides himself on serving traditional Catalan cuisine from morning till night. The walls are adorned with blue tiles and farm implements, and the bright lights show off spotless white table cloths. The smiling staff serves up hearty, homemade food and jugs of house wine at a good price. Around 2pm, you’ll find a rotation of regulars mixed with tourists who have hunted the place down after reading rave reviews on the internet. Leonardo’s foray into the cooking world started at the age of 15, when he left his native Galicia and moved to Madrid. He started learning to cook in Madrid, adding to the baking experience he already had from his parents. After two years he moved to Barcelona, finished school, and decided to settle down permanently in the Catalan capital. He worked in restaurants, cooked for private parties in masías, followed older cooks around as they shopped for mushrooms, veggies and spices, and picked other chefs’ brains when they invited him over for dinner. When he was 23 years old, he opened his first business. “Two things were clear to me,” says Leonardo seriously. “I didn’t want to work for someone else and, I didn’t want to be mediocre.” He remembers covering the outsides of cookbooks in paper so that no one would be able to tell what he was reading on his morning and evening commutes in the metro or bus. Thirty-two years ago, Leonardo and his team took over La Palmera,

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FEATURE 31 which had been a point of reference for high-end Catalan cooking in the city. “We kept the name, and we tried to preserve the same kind of dishes. The difference is that we’ve geared our menus more towards average folks.” Leonardo does it all. “I buy the food, I cook it, I sell it, and I come out from behind the scenes to greet the customers. If you want to do anything well, you have to dedicate yourself to it. But if you love what you do, it really doesn’t seem like work. And if you put love into the dishes you make, people can tell.”

course, the base style is Spanish cooking… well, because I can’t help it. I’m Andaluz, and my mother was a good cook!” But their food is influenced by their multinational staff. Sergio says he likes to have his employees try things, asking how their mother might have changed the recipe. Sergio doesn’t do the shopping but he does roam the markets himself, looking for ideas. “For example, taking a traditional recipe like cannelloni, and making it vegetarian—maybe using beets instead of meat—and inviting friends to come and try it out, that’s exciting. After the dinner you go sit with them, and see what the reactions were. The

“Everyone is welcome in my house and it’s my job to make sure that they go away happy, once or a hundred times.” He says that the trick to maintaining the quality of a restaurant for so many years is quite basic. “Make dishes that are a little more complicated than a mamá at home would have time to prepare, but simple enough that coming in to eat doesn’t have to be a black-tie affair. That’s giving people a reason to come to your restaurant,” he says as he waves adéu to a couple of regulars. “You also need to specialise in a few things, and to know what appeals to your clientele. For example, foreigners always want paella, so we make sure we make a great paella.” For the locals, he prepares typical dishes like escudella, garbanzos, and butifara negra y blanca. Leonardo says that it’s also important to use seasonal vegetables and fruits. That way the menu is naturally changing, and it keeps the food consistent with the outside world. And, most importantly, says Leonardo firmly, “when you eat at La Palmera, you’re in my house. Everyone is welcome in my house and it’s my job to make sure that they go away happy, once or a hundred times.” SERGIO SANCHEZ-MONTIJANO AT PLA Yet another chef who shares this philosophy is Sergio SanchezMontijano. He is head chef at Pla, a small, romantic restaurant on tiny Carrer Bellafila that serves up artful cuisine. Originally from Jaen, Sergio felt the urge to travel from a very young age. In San Sebastian, London and the south of England, he studied under chefs who had already made an international reputation for themselves. “I wasn’t just studying the profession, but the culture of cooking as well,” he says. Sergio made his way back to Spain, finally arriving in Barcelona. He heard that the owner at Pla was looking for a head chef. “I came, had dinner, and saw a little of the way of thinking they promote in the kitchen, and then did several interviews here.” He says they only reached an agreement after having spoken carefully about their respective visions for the restaurant and the menu. “You can’t work in a place where the philosophy doesn’t match with yours.” he says. “Cooking is an art, after all, and the cook must be given autonomy while still respecting the needs of the place where he works.” The culinary goal at Pla is to be constantly changing. “There are lots of places that make great traditional food in Barcelona, but that’s not the goal here. I always try to be innovative,” Sergio says. “Though of

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Chef Sergio Sanchez Montijano of Restaurant Pla.

more feedback you get, the more you can improve.” Like Leonardo at La Palmera and Jesús at Clemen’s, he admits that he works longs hours, but “it doesn’t feel like work. I’m happy and comfortable here.” Echoing the words of both Jesús and Campos, he says: “You really can’t be a great chef if you don’t love what you do. I absolutely love it.” I asked him: “You know, I’ve interviewed three chefs from three very different restaurants, and each of you is very zen. Don’t you ever get stressed?” Smiling kindly at the question of an obvious novice, Sergio patiently replies: “The stress of the kitchen comes from working in a situation where there are many elements that you can’t control. I’ve been in those situations too, but when you make sure that you control your environment, you’ve prepared for the day in advance, and you trust your team, it’s not stressful. That reality television drama is really wasted energy that could be spent preparing a good meal. It makes sense, doesn’t it?”

ADDRESSES Bar Clemen’s: La Rambla 91. Tel. 93 317 1084 La Palmera: Carrer Jersusalem 30. Tel. 93 301 4291 Pla: Carrer Bellafila 5. Tel. 93 412 6552 www.restaurantpla.cat

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32 TRAVEL

A day in Tarragona An hour south of Barcelona, this port city has a fascinating history to explore. By Jay Collins

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ust 82 kilometres south of Barcelona lies Tarragona, a port city with a rich history that dates back over 2,000 years. Until recently, the city’s Roman heritage was barely afforded a mention in the guide books and little was done to upkeep the ruins or attract tourists. Then, in the Nineties, the council invested in a major renovation of its old town and, in the year 2000, Tarragona was declared a Unesco World Heritage site. The site that Tarragona occupies today, on hills overlooking the Mediterranean, was first settled by Iberian tribes and then later by the Carthaginians, whose empire reached up from North Africa. The Roman army arrived in 218BC and, after the Punic Wars against the Carthaginians, set up a garrison in what they called Tarraco. Over the next 200 years, Tarraco was a key part of the Roman empire, and the entire Iberian peninsula was conquered from this base. From 26BC to 25BC the emperor Augustus made the city his home: the road systems were overhauled and the amphitheatre built. It was filled with monuments, even becoming capital for a brief period. In the first and second centuries AD the city underwent its greatest period of growth. With the arrival of the Visigoths some 500 years later, the city’s power slowly declined and disintegrated. Tarragona is a winning destination for a day trip: most of the city’s main sites and monuments are within easy walking distance from each other.

1. Roman aqueduct If you travel to Tarragona by car, you’ll see the impressive Roman Les Ferreres aqueduct, (known locally as Pont del Diable), to the north side of the AP-7 motorway. Standing at 27 metres high and measuring 220 metres long, this remarkable feat of engineering supplied water to the city from the Francolí river. For some outstanding views take a stroll along the top of the aqueduct. To reach the aqueduct from the city centre, take a bus number 5 or 85.

2. Roman amphitheatre If you arrive by train, your first stop will be the Roman amphitheatre, a short walk from the station. Carved out of the rocky hillside, with the Mediterranean sea as its backdrop, the amphitheatre would have held up to 15,000 spectators at one time, generally gathered to see gladiator fights or public executions. The ruins are heavily eroded, but intact enough to appreci-

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ate their architecture and construction. In the year 259AD, the Bishop Fructuoso and his deacons Augurio and Eulogio were burned alive within the confines of the amphitheatre, and in the early sixth century, a Visigoth basilica was built on the site to honour these martyrs. This building was eventually replaced by the medieval Santa Maria del Miracle church, remains of which can still be seen.

3. The walls Carrying on towards the old city you’ll soon come to the Roman wall. The fortified wall around the city of Tarraco was built in the second century BC. It was originally some 3,500 metres long and stretched all the way to the sea. Just 1,100 metres of the wall remain, running along the perimetre of the city’s old quarter. The best-preserved sections with their original entrances to the city can be seen on the Passeig Arqueològic. You can walk along

the grassy promenade on top of the wall.

4. The forum Before visiting the forum, take a stop at Plaça del Pallol to look at the model of the city in its Roman heyday. With an image in your mind of how things once were, it’s an easier task to navigate the ruins. The provincial forum and Roman Circus were built in the second half of the first century AD and, covering an area of seven and a half hectares, was the largest complex of its kind in the Roman world. The Provincial forum was built around two terraced squares. The upper square was surrounded by a portico, some of which can be seen in the cathedral’s cloister. At one end stood a large hall, the cella, a temple of the imperial cult. Built by the Emperor Domitian for chariot races, Tarragona’s Roman circus is among the best conserved in the world. Much of the original structure now lays beneath 19th-century buildings, but the eastern side can be visited. Within the circus is a massive tower from the first century BC, that was altered during the Middle Ages to serve as a royal palace. Unfortunately, much of Tarraco’s local forum, which would have been the hub of daily life, was destroyed in the 19th century as a result of urban expansion. One section that did survive reveals the back of the capital city’s temple and several homes.

5. Cathedral of Santa Maria Perched on the highest point of the hill, the cathedral of Santa Maria dates back to the 12th century and houses Tarragona’s richest collection of medieval art. The soaring

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TRAVEL 33

entrance and rose-coloured window of its façade have become emblematic of the city. Construction of the cathedral began in 1170 and ended in the 14th century. Initially conceived in the Romanesque style, it ended as a transitional Gothic cathedral. The cloister is well worth a close visit and the sculpture work represents one of the finest surviving examples of Catalan Romanesque art.

6. Casc antic and El Call The old quarter of Tarragona, built on top of Roman remains is a pretty maze of narrow streets and squares. The Call was home to Tarragona’s Jewish community and was separated from the rest of the city, with its own exit through the city wall. It is known that there was a synagogue, baths and a school, but little survives today. There are just a handful of streets to explore.

WEEKEND ESCAPE LA GARRIGA Just a 25-minute train ride from Passeig de Gràcia, Gran Hotel Balneario Blancafort makes for the perfect escape from the city. Located in the quaint town of La Garriga, this four-star thermal spa hotel has much to offer in terms of the perfect pampering get-away. Surrounded by rolling green countryside, this town has been famous for the therapeutic properties of its spring waters since the Bronze Age. Dating back to 1840, the hotel (back then known as “The Baths Establishment” or simply “The Establishment” by locals) boasts 155 guest rooms and suites, with indoor and outdoor restaurants, breakfast room and piano lounge. The 3000-square-metre Thermal Centre offers Templarium and Natatorium treatments in mineral waters, therapeutic Vichy, Kneipp and Sensation showers and an exclusive Oriental zone, where visitors can indulge in a wide selection of massages from Bali, Thailand and more. Other facilities include the skin care and beauty centre, a state-of-the-art fitness suite and two outdoor pools complete with water jets and jacuzzis.

7. Museum of Archaeology Inside the old quarter, in Plaça del Rei, the National Archeological Museum of Tarragona is housed in an elegant building behind the circus and holds marble and bronze sculptures, a number of stunning mosaics and other artifacts including scultures, inscriptions, mosaics and pottery. Visitors can view a segment of the original Roman wall in the basement.

Getting there Depending on the day and time there are two to three trains a day from Barcelona Sants. The journey takes about an hour and 20 minutes and costs €8.05 each way. The AVE takes just over 30 minutes and costs from €38.

METROPOLITAN OFFER Stuck for ideas for Valentine’s Day? Blancafort is currently offering the following package for Metropolitan readers this February:      

One night in a deluxe room Breakfast buffet Dinner (Valentine’s menu including drinks) Exclusive bath for two with champagne Free access to Thermal Spa and outdoor pools Welcome drink

Price €269 for two people. For more information, visit www.balnearioblancafort.com or call 93 860 5600

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34 RESTAURANT REVIEW

Ramen-Ya Hiro Warm up a winter evening with a hearty ramen soup at this Japanese kitchen. Photos and text by Sam Zucker.

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Carrer Girona 164 Lunch 1.30pm-3.30pm (€10.50 menu) Dinner 8.30pm-11.30pm Monday-Saturday €15 average ✪✪✪✪

NOT WORTH THE TRIP COULD IMPROVE ✪✪✪ GOOD ✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD ✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED ✪

✪✪

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he afternoon had turned into evening as we walked down Carrer Girona after a day in some plaça in Gràcia, enjoying beer and the change of scenery with a visiting friend, when I stumbled upon Ramen-Ya Hiro. The name was familiar, as I had just read a brief description of the tiny ramen bar on a hip Barcelona food blog, and judging from the groups of young people in skinny jeans and scarves waiting outside for a table, it must be good. Everyone was peering through the windows of the brightly-lit noodle shop, a welcoming beacon on an otherwise dark street. A delicious surprise on a quiet Thursday night north of Diagonal. We waited outside while those before us, one by one, wedged themselves into open seats, my hunger and anticipation building as I perused the relatively straight-forward, ‘build your own noodle bowl’ menu. Finally two spots opened up at the low bar, giving us a front-row view of the equally small kitchen and the giant pot of simmering, meaty broth that could practically double as a hot tub. Ramen-Ya Hiro is a ‘japanese kitchen’, with no sushi in sight. The star is ramen soup, and not the kind that keeps starving university students barely alive for €1.35 a packet. Chef Hiroki Yoshiyuki, formerly of popular Barcelona restaurant TempuraYa, opened his own Japanese hotspot in the fall of 2012, helping to fill a gap in the growing international food scene of Barcelona. He makes the noodles fresh each

night with the pasta machine he purchased in Japan, serving up to 150 people per night in his dining room of little more than 20 seats. Ramen is something people specialise in and obsess over. It’s food of the common

RAMEN IS SOMETHING PEOPLE SPECIALISE IN AND OBSESS OVER. IT’S FOOD OF THE COMMON MAN TURNED COOL man turned cool. Working-class street food that has exploded onto the radar of people who are looking for lots of flavour without the fuss. Just look at the drive and incredible success of Korean-American chef and entrepreneur David Chang with his Momofuku Noodle Bar and Restaurant Group in New York City (now in Toronto and Sydney as well). When tender pork meets starchy noodles, velvety egg yolks and ‘umamibombs’ like soy sauce and miso, an addictive, deeply pleasing dining experience is likely in store. The big, rich, aromatic noodle soups at Ramen-Ya Hiro are incredibly filling, and

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RESTAURANT REVIEW 35 the tight quarters of the dining room had nearly all the patrons present holding their giant, steaming bowls close, smiling and slurping happily; sniffing and sweating as the winter chill melted away with each bite. We began our meal with a bowl of house-made kimchi and a couple of bottles of Kirin Ichiban, a pale Japanese lager that is honestly nothing to write home about despite the cool logo. That being said, it is refreshing, and very easy to drink. If your goal is downing as many bottles as possible in some sort of noodle eating/beer chugging competition followed by karaoke, this is a perfect choice. So first of all, kimchi is not Japanese but Korean, though I wasn’t about to cry foul. I really love the funky, spicy, fermented radish and cabbage that my Korean school mates used to make in their dorm rooms. It would stink up the hallways but make those who got a taste quite happy indeed. However, this kimchi was not what I was hoping for. Maybe they were rushing the process, or catering to the cautious local palette, but this dish was not spicy at all, despite the servers’ warning, and lacked all but the faintest hint of that essential fermented flavour. While Korean kimchi ranges from very fresh and crunchy to down-right noxious depending on the aging, I found this one wholly disappointing and pretty uninteresting. After the kimchi, our noodles—and more beer—arrived, steaming and beautiful with the classic garnishes of spiral fish cake, nori seaweed, slow-cooked egg, and juicy roasted pork. The soups come in several varieties: shōyu (soy sauce-spicked), miso flavoured (both with a base of chicken and pork broth for €7.50 each) and seafood. Additional garnishes are purchased from the sidebar menu, including extra pork, corn, poached egg, stewed bamboo, soy bean sprouts, nori, butter (the last being recommended only as a rich companion to the miso), from between 50 cents and €2 each. In addition to noodles, Ramen-Ya Hiro offers Japanese specialities like Cha-shu-don (a bowl of glutenous rice with braised pork belly and scallions) and Onigiri (hand-held triangles of rice with Japanese prunes, kombu seaweed, or pork belly) as well as crowd favorites like steamed edamame and gyoza dumplings (with a pork, shitake mushroom and cabbage filling). Dessert at Ramen-Ya Hiro is light and flavourful as well, with dishes such as sesame flan and fresh mochi (chewy, rice flour cakes) offering a nice, hintingly-sweet end to the meal. Unlike the increasingly popular Vietnamese pho soup, ramen doesn’t have the bright herb palette or the spicy chili kick. Ramen is more subtle, and though I enjoy pho very much, judging from what I have tried in Barcelona, I recommend braving the lines at Ramen-Ya Hiro instead to get your noodle soup fix this winter.

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Authentic Mexican Restaurant located in the heart of the Eixample Esquerra where you can enjoy the most typical Mexican dishes and first-class service in a unique environment. The restaurant is tastefully decorated and furnished to make you feel like you’re in a Mexican hacienda. You can also enjoy our cocktail menu and the best Margaritas in town in our lounge/bar area as well as taking advantage of our weekly promotions. We recommend our nachos con pastor, our ceviches, exquisite tacos and meats.

Calle Mallorca 188

|

Tel. 93 127 1051

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www.elalebrijebarcelona.com

Check our Facebook page ElAlebrijeBarcelona for daily promotions.

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36 QUICK BITES

Bismilla Kebabish Excellent quality and fast service make Bismilla one of Barcelona’s best kebab restaurants. Photo and text by Sam Zucker.

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hough it may not be what one might expect to be craving when living in a food city like Barcelona, hot, delicious kebabs are something that keep the local masses fed (not to mention the hoards of skateboarders that congregate around Barcelona’s ‘kebab ground-zero’— Carrer de Joaquín Costa). Joaquín Costa is a pumping artery of refreshing life-blood through the heart of the ever-evolving Raval neighbourhood. Among the street’s dive bars, modernist landmarks, exotic fresh-markets, hidden restaurants, vintage shops and eclectic venues, the hip youth of Barcelona mingle happily with the barri’s vibrant immigrant community. The well-known street is working-class by day and trend-setting by night, with bold graffiti as the backdrop; shouting neighbours and skateboard wheels on concrete its soundtrack. However, one thing that brings the starkly contrastingly denizens of the upper-Raval together is the hands-down consensus that kebabs are delicious and that the best come from Bismilla Kebabish—a 100 percent Halal, Turkish and Pakistani restaurant that boasts over a decade of success. It is instantly apparent that the place is good when it is packed with people, while

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employees of nearly identical businesses on either side are languishing in boredom, with tired faces that mirror the sadly-wilting lettuce awaiting the next naïve diner. At Bismilla, the quality is excellent and the service is nearly always fast and fierce, though the peak-hour wait is sometimes a test of fortitude. The first step to getting your hands on a steaming chicken kebab is navigating the queue—less of an organised line and more of a hungry crowd, milling around the service counter, wordlessly trying to figure out who has yet to order and hoping with all their hearts that the kebab being wrapped is theirs.

THE FIRST STEP TO GETTING YOUR HANDS ON A STEAMING CHICKEN KEBAB IS NAVIGATING THE QUEUE Of the chicken and beef kebabs (which are referred to here as shawarma, an Arabic word for the Turkish döner kebab, both meaning “turning”, a reference to the rotating spit-roaster), the former is by far the star; a quickly dwindling skewer of slowcooked chicken breasts and thighs that is shaved ceaselessly by the fast-moving counter crew. The tender meat is given a final sear on the plancha grill before being heaped onto fresh-baked flatbread, hot out of the tandoor oven that helps make this restaurant unique. If you have ever used a tandoor oven you know that it is hot. Really hot. Like nearly 500ºC. And to cook the flat bread (naan),

the deft tandoor chef uses his hands (with the help of a cloth pad called a gaddi) to slap the dough to the inner wall of the vertical clay oven, creating deliciously chewy, yet crackling disks of flat bread (and probably burning off what is left of his arm hair in the process). The naan is retrieved from the tandoor oven with a long hook and sent down the line; the tasty vehicle for one of the hundreds of shawarmas sold on any given afternoon. ‘The Works’ includes lettuce, cabbage, onion, cucumber and yogurt sauce, with the tangy chili condiment coming highly recommended. However, the tandoor oven isn’t only for making bread. The menu at Bismilla also features serval tandoori dishes, including the succulent Chicken Tikka—tender chicken breast marinated in yogurt and a proprietary tandoori masala spice blend that lends a reddish-pink hugh to the final product. The chicken is skewered on long rods and roasted vertically inside the searing hot tandoor oven, garnering a slight but pleasant char. Each platter is served with fluffy rice (or chips) and crisp salad. In addition, Urdu specialities like curried chicken, beef meatballs, and falafel round out the affordable menu. The seating is ample, but at the busiest times of day your best bet may be to order your shawarma to go and join the dozens of other outdoor diners around the corner, drinking cheap beer and dribbling sauce down their chins. Enjoy your meal while watching the skateboard clan throw themselves repeatedly to the ground, cursing the heavens in search of the perfect trick at Barcelona’s famous ‘MACBA Skatespot’ (it’s actually a museum of contemporary art too, lest we forget). So, be careful of stains, watchful of flying skateboards, and bring plenty of napkins.

Carrer de Joaquín Costa 22 €3.50-€5

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Find everything you need here!

In our online directory of English-speaking businesses in Barcelona

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/directory

main pages FEB 2014.indd 2

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FOOD & DRINK 39

FOOD&DRINK

For more in food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking Discount for Metropolitan reaDers.

NEFW &D IN

bagel

bar bIerFeST TAverN4saGraDa FamILIa This cosy traditional pub has a fantastic range of draft and bottled beers as well as wide selection of G&T’s. They have large TVs and it’s the perfect place to watch the match with friends. If you study at UAB join them on Facebook for more info on their regular language Intercambio nights. Av. Gaudi 81 | Metro Guinardó , Sagrada Familia T. 993 480 157 | www.bierfest.es | www.facebook.com/bierfest-barcelona

bollocKS bAr4barrI GÒTIC The quintessential rock bar in downtown Barcelona. Covered in posters and graffiti from top to bottom, the bar has the air of an abandoned subway station where daily riffs and whiskey bring together all those who carry rock & roll in their blood.

YeS We bAGel Take it easy on weekends. YES WE BAGEL delivers fresh hand rolled bagels on Saturday mornings. Do you miss having Bagels for breakfast or brunch? Make your order online before 6pm on Friday afternoons and they will be at your door first thing Saturday mornings. Choose from Plain, Sesame, Everything, Onion and Cinnamon Raisin. They also arrange events and offer office service. Don’t hesitate to get in touch.

Ample 46 | Metro Jaume I | Every day 7pm-3am M. 663 710 095 | www.bollocksbcn.com

Order at www.yeswebagel.com or call 626 990 713

MANcheSTer bAr4barrI GÒTIC

be MY bAGel 4GrÀCIa

Manchester Bar brings together friends and music fans to enjoy great tunes from the Eighties and Nineties. From Joy Division to Placebo to The Smiths and all the way through to the Happy Mondays, Manchester Bar has it all. A must-visit place for anyone who knows and loves their music!

Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed.

Milans 5 | Metro Jaume I | Every day 7pm-3am M. 627 733 081 | www.manchesterbar.com

SUGAr bAr4barrI GÒTIC Located in the back streets of Plaça Reial this small bar is renowned for its huge personality and fun vibe. The friendly bar staff dish out great mojitos that don’t cost a mint. Good tune selections, Happy Hour until 11pm and great mingling opportunities make Sugar a sweet spot. Rauric 21 | Metro Liceu I Opens at 8pm

ANDÚ4barrI GÒTIC Andú offers an escape from Barcelona’s mayhem, without sacrificing the fun. The cool music and relaxed vibe draws a diverse and bohemian crowd making it a warm and spirited bar full of animated locals enjoying a great wine list and classic Spanish tapas, buritos, tacos and cocktails. Correo Viejo I Metro Jaume 1 I M. 646 553 930 Mon-Sun 6pm-2.30am

bAr 324barrI GÒTIC This bar is one of best kept secrets in the Gothic area, you’re guaranteed a friendly reception from their staff and their fantastic mixture of customers & friends.They have a great list of cocktails, beers and even a bar menu. Their laid back tunes will be setting the mood every night – so you’ll want to come back again and again. Ample 32 | Tel. 93 268 4826 | www.bar32barcelona.com

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€ under 20 | €€ 20-30 | €€€ 30-40 | €€€€ over 40 RV Reservation Advised

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm

7SINS bAr ANd loUNGe 4EIXAMPLE E If you’re looking for a friendly and good value place to get a bite to eat, 7Sins is the place you’re looking for! The menu has a vast selection of dishes to share as well as a large choice of gourmet 100% beef burgers. After your meal there’s an elegant lounge with Chesterfield sofas and impressive decor, ideal for having a drink or cocktail. 7Sins also has a terrace where you can enjoy a meal or a drink outdoors. You can see their full menu at www.7sinsbar.com

Muntaner 7 | Metro Universitat Tel. 93 453 6445 | www.7sinsbar.com Mon-Sun 1pm till late | RV

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40 FOOD & DRINK burger cAFÈ MANdAcArÚ4Poble Sec

PIM PAM bUrGer4born

The irresistible food, fantastic wine list and the beautiful interior make Cafè Mandacarú a unique space, equally suitable for a coffee, a glass of wine or delightful tapas. You can also enjoy a lovely cocktail or liquor in a welcoming atmosphere, and be happily surprised to listen to the best musicians in concert every week.

Here quality is of the utmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are also available and are all prepared on the premises.

Magalhães 35 | Metro Poble Sec or Paral·lel | Near Plaça del Sortidor | Tel. 93 441 4017 www.cafemandacaru.com | Wed-Sun from 6.30pm

Indian beMbÍ4InDIan CULInarY

Experience authentic Indian cuisine in modern and sophisticated surroundings. Their dishes are created with passion by their head chef who has more than 10 years of experience in the best restaurants in both India and London. If you’re vegetarian, then you will love their exciting flavours and aromas.

Sabateret 4, Born I Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 I burger@pimpamplats.com Calle Bigai 1, Bonanova, 08022 I Tel. 93 211 5606 www.pimpamburger.com I Every day 1pm-12am

Consell de Cent 377, 08009 I Metro Girona (L4, yellow) I T. 93 502 4952 M. 645 257 701

KeIK 4sarrIÀ / sanT GerVasI

SITAr4PobLenoU

International fusion dishes, plus a big variety of salads. Everything is made fresh and with top quality ingredients. Save space for their wonderful cakes and desserts - eat in or take away. On Saturdays and Sundays they offer brunch from 10am til 12.45pm, including eggs benedict, French toast and granola. Open every day of the year.

Situated in the heart of the fashionable Rambla de Poblenou, this cool, modern Indian restaurant offers the most exquisite variety of Indian cuisine you’ll find in Barcelona. They want to provide the best recipes, inherited from their ancestors, using the same fresh and seasonal ingredients, the same spices, the same touch and the same aroma, to create that mouth-wateringly unique and authentic flavour.

Rambla de Poblenou 101, 08005 T. 93 603 5909 | www.restaurantesitar.com Open Mon-Sun 12pm-12am

Doctor Fleming 21 | Tel. 93 414 5536 | www.keik.es

Indian / Pakistani

café PlATÓ cAFÉ4Les CorTs

NIce SPIce4PobLenoU

This is an innovative restaurant that is open from 8am, serving breakfasts, lunchtime menús and a delicious range of tapas. This is the ideal place for meeting friends after work. This fun and original theme restaurant will make you feel as though you were on a film set. They also offer spectacular brunches every Saturday.

Specialists in Tandoori. Typical halaal cuisine with high quality dishes. See the chefs prepare and cook your food which is all made with fresh ingredients. Boasting a Bollywood musical ambience, Nice Spice is an excellent choice for traditional Indian food in Barcelona.

Pujades 207 | Metro Poblenou T. 93 308 9548 www.restaurantenicespice.com Wed-Mon 12pm-4pm, 8pm to 12am

Gandesa 6 | Metro Maria Cristina Tel. 93 250 2626

Indian / Tandoori

Food & drink JAN 2014.indd 46

cArroT cAFe4 PobLenoU

MAdNoo FoodS4 PobLenoU

The ultimate sandwich place in one of the fastest-growing districts of Barcelona@22. They offer a great selection of sandwiches served on more than 11 types of artisan bread. In addition to their premium hamburgers, beef, turkey and lamb halal, you will find an extensive menu in an inviting location. Without a doubt, Carrot Cafe is the place of excellence for sandwiches in Barcelona.

Need to spice up your life? Try this new Tandoori restaurant in Poblenou. Authentic Punjabi cuisine made with the freshest ingredients. Madnoo Foods, situated in the @22 district, offers a unique dining experience. Serving contemporary Indian dishes, they blend delicate flavours and light textures and use the very finest ingredients. Free delivery. 10 percent discount on take away.

Tànger 22 I Metro Bogatell Tel. 93 309 3375 I Mon-Fri 9am-11pm, Sat 8am-midnight www.carrotcafe.es

Sancho de Avila 167-171 I Tel. 93 172 8131 Metro Glòries / Poblenou I Tram Glòries Every day 11am-11pm

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FOOD & DRINK 41 Argentine

Japanese doble zeroo4born/ maresme

9REINAS 4EIXAMPLE

This contemporary and cosmopolitan Japanese restaurant uses all the secrets and art of exotic cuisines to create an exquisitely refined dining experience. Their tapas are a creative and harmonious fusion of flavours and textures and their innovative and transformational approach to sushi will prove almost impossible to resist. €

Argentine reastaurant Nueve Reinas has quickly become a favourite for discerning meat-eaters. Renowned for its excellent quality and value 9Reinas is specialised in meats from all over the world. The exquisite Argentina-inspired decoration offers an intimate and welcoming space where every visitor feels like a guest. The restaurant has two floors and a private room which can host parties of up to nine people.

Doble ZerOO Born, Jaume Giralt 53 Tel. 93 315 1744 Tomoe by Doble ZerOO, Sant Delfí 11 Tel. 93 211 9869 (Take away) Doble ZerOO Maresme, Buenos Aires 22, El Masnou Tel. 93 555 8599 (Take away)

Valencia 267 | Tel. 93 272 4766 | www.nuevereinas.com/en

Juice bar

Mediterranean SANO4SANTS

MAGNOLIA 4 BARRI GÒTIC

Sano juice offers a healthy alternative choice with smoothies and juices, homemade bagels, paninis, wraps, tasty lunch menu for 10.45 and now brunch. Their food and smoothies are made to order with fresh ingredients, no extra sugar, offering the best quality. Sano Cuina (Sants) specialises in brunch and Sano Buenos Aires in take-away salads, wraps and drinks. Eat better. Feel better.

Mediterranean

In the heart of the Gothic quarter, Magnolia offers exquisite signature cuisine from chef Gianni Fusco at affordable prices. With its warm and loungy interior, it is the place of choice at any time of the day. During the week, breakfast and lunch menus attract big crowds thanks to their great quality and reasonable prices. In the afternoon, clients can choose from a variety of tapas or enjoy mojitos for just 3.50. Breakfast from 2.70, Lunch from 9. Dinner menu 17.95 (Sun-Thurs) 25 (Fri-Sat) Ciutat 5 | Metro Jaume I | 93 304 2376 | 691 504 942 noche@magnoliabarcelona.com | www.magnoliabarcelona.com | www.facebook.com/magnolia.rna Mon-Thurs 9am-1am, Fri 9am-3am, Sat 1pm-3am, Sun 1pm-1am

Creu Coberta 50 | Metro Espanya | Tel. 93 327 8272 Buenos Aires 44 | Cerca de la Plaça Francesc Macià Tel. 93 217 8115

Thai

Peruvian mochica4eixample e

Thai gracia4GRÀCIA

This magnificent Peruvian restaurant specialising in fish and seafood is located in the heart of Barcelona, just a few streets away from Plaza España. The menu offers a delicious variety of plates for any time of the day, each prepared with authentic Peruvian ingredients, bringing the true taste of Peru across the Atlantic. Their famous Pisco Sour cocktails won’t keep you away either! €

Expect authentic ingredients all imported from Thailand and cooked by experienced Thai chefs. The Pad Thai and green and yellow curries have excellent subtle flavours. Simply delicious! The special tasting menu for 21 is a huge hit and allows you to try all the exotic dishes Thai Gracia has to offer. An affordable 12 menú del día is available during the week. The warm hospitality and attention to detail to every dish at Thai Gracia will keep you coming back for more.

Gran Vía de les Corts Catalanes 487 I Metro Rocafort exit Calabria I Bus lines 9, 50, 56 Tel. 93 325 7110 I rexamochicasl@gmail.com www.restaurantemochicabcn.es I Mon-Sun 12pm-12am

Organic

Vietnamese amaltea4EIXAMPLE E

Visit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant, where a warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Menu of the day 10.70, night and weekend menu 15.30. Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | www.amalteaygovinda.com Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm, Closed Sun

Govinda (VEGETARIAN) 4BARRI GÒTIC

Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, nonalcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus.

Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 www.amalteaygovinda.com | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm

Food & drink JAN 2014.indd 47

Còrsega 381 | Metro Verdaguer / Girona Tel. 93 459 3591 | www.restaurante-thai-gracia.com Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV

Main dish take away €5.95

la vietnamita 4 GRÀCIA/BORN La Vietnamita is a Vietnamese street food-inspired restaurant in the heart of Gràcia. This month, they open a second restaurant in Born next to the Chocolate Museum and old market. They serve light and nutritious dishes such as traditional Pho soup, savoury rice noodles like Bun Bo, and a variation of fresh Vietnamese rolls and appetisers. All of their dishes have a vegetarian version and they aim to work with local or organic products and fresh ingredients while maintaining reasonable prices. Main dish take away 5.95. Torrent de l’Olla 78 | Tel. 93 518 1803 Comercio 17 | www.lavietnamita.com

1/23/14 1:51:06 PM


42 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

HEALTH

BUSINESS

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS.

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Dr. Alistair Gallagher -

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic -

DENTIST

DENTIST Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona and Terrassa provides excellent oral care in an English-speaking environment. Dr Nancy Pancko, an american dentist trained at Columbia University in New york, is an american Board-certified orthodontist. Dr Javier Sanz is an American Board-certified periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university. Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care

The British Dental Clinic has a patientfriendly philosophy that combines aesthetics, youthful appearances, and a commitment to total oral health. Conveniently located in Barcelona, they offer orthodontics including Fast Braces and Inman aligner, implants, cosmetic dentistry, whitening and general family dentistry. Their talented, conscientious and friendly staff will help ensure that you comfortably receive the healthy and beautiful smile that you deserve. Diagonal 281 Metro: Sagrada Família (L5) Monumental (L2) T. 93 265 8070 M. 607 332 335 info@thebritishdentalclinic.com www.thebritishdentalclinic.com

Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 T. 93 246 9043 Metro: Clot (L1, L2) www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm

Dr. Boj - DENTIST Dr. Boj and his team provide specialised comprehensive pediatric dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Dr. Boj also lectures about all treatments related to these age groups, including laser dentistry.

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

PropDental - DENTIST Clinicas Propdental · Specialists in same-day implants and teeth · Cost of a dental implant: 450 · Titanium root · Dental veneers without cutting the tooth · orthodontic treatments · First visit free. Call 93 491 4914.

Sants 151, 08028 T. 93 934 485 www.propdental.es

MP 40-47 feb 2014.indd 44

Abaden Dental Group - DENTIST advanced Dentistry in Barcelona. Methodology: a primary distinctive at abaden is the high value we place on group clinical consultation. During our 28 years of business our dentists across all specialities meet together regularly to collaborate and review patient cases. This group’s clinical case consultation system is a proven method that guarantees accurate patient diagnostics and higher quality service. Procedures: Implantology (single, multiple or full teeth recovery), aesthetics, orthodontics and general dentistry Languages: English, russian, French and Portuguese.

Abaden Diagonal - Agustina Saragossa 9-11 (08017) Abaden Sants - Marques de Sentmenat 82 (08029) Abaden Vall d’Hebron - Arenys 89-93 (08035) T. 90 064 9162 (Toll-Free for national calls) Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat 10am-7pm www.dentistsbarcelona.com

1/23/14 2:37:13 PM


HEALTH

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST For all your dental needs, a team consisting of their first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 30 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

Rosselló 95, local, 08029 Metro: Hospital Clínic (L5) Entença (L5) T. 93 322 9114 Fax. 93 322 0220 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

FREE CONSULTATION

Hestia - PSYCHOTHERAPY The Hestia International Centre of Psychotherapy has become a reference in the city. The professional team works with individuals, couples and families through psychotherapy, coaching, counselling, clinical hypnosis, art therapy, NLP and EMDR. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, and Catalan. The first consultation is free.

NEST - Network of English Speaking Therapists The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, German, Italian and Greek. For detailed information, please visit their website. www.barcelonaNEST.com

Jonathan Lane Hooker -

Psychotherapist

Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people. Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.

Passeig Sant Joan 180 Pral 2a Metro: Joanic (L4) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

Nick Cross - PSYCHOLOGIST /

Dan Sanchez - Counselling

Nick Cross is a registered psychologist, specialising in psychotherapy. Psychotherapy can help you with the causes of distress and unhappiness and it provides treatment for anxiety, fears, relationship difficulties, depression, problems adjusting, loss and trauma.

Dan Sanchez is a UK qualified, native English speaking registered member of the British Association for Counselling and Psychotherapy. He has extensive experience working with a wide range of issues both in the UK and Spain. If you are experiencing difficulties in your life, counselling and psychotherapy may be able to help you. Practices located in Sitges and Barcelona.

M. 644 193 825 ncross@copc.es

M. 679 071 669 www.sitgescounselling.com

PSYCHOTHERAPIST

Bianca Kruk - THERAPIST Bianca Kruk at Ganesha Healing is a certified therapist in: Naturopathy, Jin Shin Jyutsu, Ear Acupuncture and Quantum Kinesis. She is a member of the Asociación de Profesionales de las Terapias Naturales. Treats: Physical and emotional rebalancing, Pain and stress relief, anxiety, depression, Chronic and acute conditions, Nutritional advice, pregnancy discomforts. All ages welcome! To find out more visit the web or call Bianca directly. Dutch, English, German, Italian and Spanish spoken. T. 65 439 3629 ganeshahealing@gmail.com www.ganeshahealing.wix.com/engl

MP 40-47 feb 2014.indd 45

BUSINESS DIRECTORY 43

and Psychotherapy

Clínica Masculina Europea -

MEDICAL CENTER

Clínica Masculina Europea is one of the most pioneering medical centers at a national level. The most common sexual dysfunctions treated are: Erectile dysfunction, Early Ejaculation, Penile Curvature, Perturbation of sexual desire. Urologic problems: Prostate Symptoms, Fimosis, Vasectomy.

Valencia 281 Entlo. 2º, 08009 T. 93 219 3060 info@clinica-masculina.com www.clinica-masculina.com

1/23/14 2:37:14 PM


44 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

HEALTH · BUSINESS SERVICES

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Doctor for Adults

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

English Doctor Dr. Steven Joseph - Doctor General Practice Mental Health MB, MRCGP, MRCPsych.

Dr. Steven Joseph4DOCTOR Established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care with access to all medical specialties and tests. Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 | Metro Les Corts Mon-Sat | M. 662 291 191 www.googolmedicalcentre.com

Rosàngela Bertran4SUCCESS COACH Meet Rosàngela Bertran, polyglot PhD, a brilliant Success Coach that uses the Emotional Freedom Technique. Help yourself to happiness and success. For everybody that wants to create a life of success. Have a complimentary free 30-minute consultation. M. 676 216 995 | www.rosabertran.com rosabertrancat@gmail.com

Pharmacy Serra Mandri -

Krishinda Powers Duff

The helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this wellknown Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and also offers a home delivery service.

Krishinda is a fully-qualified and trained British midwife offering home birth and home dilatation services. She also provides antenatal and postnatal care and support to mothers and babies for six weeks after birth. She is supported in her practice by a team of Spanish but British-trained midwives and alternative health care professionals as well as a breast feeding consultant/Doula. Midwife means ‘to be with woman’.

Bsc Hons - Midwife

CHEMIST

Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemist T. 93 416 1270 Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm

€15 OFF

Marenostrum Centre de Salut familiar

Fontanella 16 Principal, 08010 M. 665 143 437 krishinda@gmail.com

Tania Spearman -

Víctor Sánchez Vaqué -

Make acupuncture your first choice, not your last resort! Tania is offering all Metropolitan readers a 15 discount on first appointments with this voucher. Acupuncture treats many conditions from pain, stress and depression to infertility and more. Call now to make your appointment or to see if acupuncture is right for you. Tania is a UK university trained acupuncturist with her own clinic in the centre of Barcelona. English, Spanish and German spoken.

As a business lawyer and legal consultant, Víctor Sánchez Vaqué offers legal advice and assistance to foreign and local companies and individuals in contracting, licensing, negotiation, investment projects and other legal areas of business in different sectors.

acupuncture

Enric Granados 133, 4-1 bis 08008 M. 644 322 161 info@taniaspearman.com www.taniaspearman.com

BUSINESS LAWYER

Víctor Sánchez Vaqué

M. 616 233 333 vsanchez@icab.cat

Sánchez Molina -

LEGAL PRACTICE

Visit our online BUSINESS DIRECTORY www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

MP 40-47 feb 2014.indd 44

The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

1/23/14 2:37:23 PM


BUSINESS SERVICES · SCHOOLS

BUSINESS DIRECTORY 45

BeVoip - Voip telephony provider •

Low-cost calls worldwide

Cheaper than skype

Fully managed 24 hour service

Call centre services

Per second billing

PBX installations

Receive calls on PC, mobile, landline, tablet

T. 93 220 1764 info@bevoip.com www.bevoip.com

Spain Accounting -

Tax AND Accounting services

10% OFF BUSINESS PACKAGES Mrs.Q design studio - GRAPHIC DESIGN

Qualified UK accountant with 25 years’ experience in Spain offers: · Tax services for freelance ‘autónomos’ & companies · Income tax returns for employees & non-residents · Registration of ‘autónomos’ & company incorporation (SL) · Practical advice on setting up a business in Spain · Fast, reliable email service

Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services from branding to graphic design, web design, ceramics, photography and bespoke invitations. Whether you have a new concept in mind that you want to see brought to life or need assistance rebranding your company, contact Mrs.Q design studio. At Mrs.Q design studio they love to design creative, engaging brand identities that help their clients flourish. They will help you bring some of your personality to your brand and use their knowledge of colour, passion for typography and creative flair to create an identity that engages your customers. They specialise in bespoke wedding invitations, tailor-made to suit the style of your wedding. Match your wedding invitations with save the dates, menus, place cards and thank you cards to create a polished look. They are now offering wedding stationery packages.

Call David Cook 678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com

M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com

BCN L.I.P. LANGUAGE SCHOOL

Coral - spanish teacher

BCN L.I.P. Languages is a small school with a warm and welcoming atmosphere in Barcelona’s old town. They offer both intensive and extensive courses and it’s the perfect place to ensure success in your language immersion. The centre is equipped with the most advanced facilities to enable you to succeed in your chosen language.

Reach a Spanish level that best fits your time, interests and needs! Try Coral’s personalised courses using interesting and effective methods that make learning easy. She will come to your home or business and provide the material. All levels; private or small groups (up to 3). 60-min class €25; 90-min class €35. If you need classes via SKYPE, she can also offer online lessons. She is a native, experienced and highly-qualified teacher.

T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

MP 40-47 feb 2014.indd 45

GRAPHIC DESIGN STUDIO

M. 676 249 744 coral@coralprada.com

Bcn Windows home improvements If your flat is noisy or you suffer from cold drafts then BCN Windows can help. They can double glaze your traditional wooden windows and doors without changing the way they look. Their unique system is both cost effective and attractive. Have a look at their website for more information; it even shows you how to price your own windows. Call Michael on 619 908 642 and quote ‘Metropolitan’ for a free quote.

M. 619 908 642 www.bcnwindows.es

1/23/14 2:37:25 PM


46 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

BUSINESS SERVICES · BEAUTY

Fifty Soluciones -

Beauty Planet

· Cleaning and domestic services. · For companies and private homes. · over 10 years of experience. · Licensed and insured. · Competitive prices . · Excellent service. · all kinds of cleaning jobs.

Leave behind your daily routine and prepare for a range of sensational treatments at Beauty Planet. They offer each client a completely customised service, including aesthetic advice from their experts. Beauty Planet hair and beauty in Barcelona has a team of hair professionals to ensure you receive the highest quality, comprehensive service.

Travessera de Gracia 50, 08021 T. 93 200 3075 Fax. 93 100 1435 info@fiftysoluciones.es www.fiftysoluciones.es

Diputació 197, 08011 T. 93 512 2360 info@beautyplanetbcn.com www.beautyplanetbcn.com

CLEaNING SErVICES

HAIR CUT €15 + HOT SHAVE €25

BCN Cuts - BarBEr ShoP

haIr aND BEaUTy

10% OFF

The Vital Touch - MaSSaGE The Vital Touch Massage clinic helps you relax, energise, re-balance and improve your health and lifestyle with a therapeutic, holistic full-body massage. - Enjoy a winter massage wrapped in hot towels, breathing in the essence of warm oils on your skin! - helps relieve tension, reduce stress, detoxify your body and boost your self-esteem. - We also visit offices and events around Barcelona helping stressed executives to relax and re-energise in their working day.

Directly from Boston to Gràcia comes BCN Cuts Barber Shop to offer you time to relax surrounded in a welcoming environment. with a drink in hand and jazz music playing in the background, you can have a hair cut or try their hot lather shave the classic way. BCN Cuts is a traditional barber shop with a contemporary atmosphere. you will keep coming back for the excellent service.

Gran de Gràcia 223 T. 93 611 1813 bcncuts@gmail.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com

Wishing you a Happy New Year

Easi-Sat - TELEVISIoN SErVICE

BritSat - TELEVISIoN SErVICE

Specialists in satellite TV, hD, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reliability throughout Catalunya for many years. our professional team provides satellite television from across Europe, including Dutch, French, Italian and russian, at unbeatable prices. Unmatched for quality materials, installation and after-sales service. we have solutions for loss of Uk channels, with or without a dish. Please visit our new website for all the information regarding the changes. New IPTV packages including all UK freesat channels, Al Jazeera sports 1-10, and many more.

BritSat offer the best TV packages from the Uk, Ireland and much of Europe, including russia. They have been installing satellite TV in Catalunya for 15 years and have an excellent reputation for quality, reliability, price and aftersales service. * Sky cards with or without a Uk address * all the latest Sky hD equipment * Sound systems and multi-screen viewing Freesat services will almost certainly be lost to this region of Spain by the middle of summer and BritSat have the solutions. * They supply and install all the latest internet-based TV systems * No internet? No problem, they are the official installers of the market leading Tooway Satellite internet system * Extensive channel list from the Uk and Ireland.

For our personal, efficient and friendly service, call the specialists. Follow us on Facebook/Easisat and Twitter ‘@PaulDuval15’ New IPTV packages including all UK freesat channels, Al Jazeera sports 1-10, and many more. Book now for your free demo. T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 enquiries@easisat.net www.easisat.net

MP 40-47 feb 2014.indd 46

M. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com

1/23/14 2:37:29 PM


DIRECTORY 47

SHOPPING For more shopping visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/shopping

AMANTIS

BATEAU LUNE

Torrent de L’olla 145 · M: Fontana · T. 93 501 0641 · www.amantis.net

Plaça Virreina 7, 08012 · T. 93 218 6907 · www.bateaulune.com · info@bateaulune.com www.facebook.com/bateaulune

Situated in the heart of Gracia, amantis is a new erotic haven where you’ll find thousands of reasons to not get out of bed. Offering a large variety of erotic toys, oils and lubricants, erotic shoes, condoms, books and DVDs, amantis has something for every gender and sexuality. Soon to offer workshops and activities.

Bateau Lune is a traditional toy shop for kids where you can find a large variety of traditional toys including; wooden bicycles, trains, also micro scooters, also kites and outdoor games and many more rare and original toys. Go visit them today and get ideas for special occasions such as birthday presents and Christmas gifts. Check out their free activities for children twice a month on the Virreina square in Gràcia!

OJALA!

Ciutat 14 · T. 93 601 1830 · www.ojala.es · Mon-Sat 10am-8,30pm

OJALA! is the fashion brand by Paloma Del Pozo, hailed as one of today’s most original and creative Spanish designers. Her new Barcelona boutique is located on a charming street in the Gothic quarter, only 50 metres from the Plaça Sant Jaume. Del Pozo designs joyful, colourful and elegant quality garments that will make any women stand out in a crowd.

EL MUNDO DE HAMACAS

CABOCLO HAND MADE SHOES

Ever thought of spending your mid-day rest in a comfy, restful hammock, rather than on the old living room couch? You can find this friendly hammock heaven just 25m off La Rambla (close to the Columbus statue) in the historical centre of Ciutat Vella. El Auténtico Mundo de Hamacas offers high quality hammocks in different sizes and styles, suitable for all.

Hand made by the best artisans from the north of Brazil, the Caboclo team defines themselves as an Eco & Social company. Each sandal and shoe is made with chrome free leather, and uses recycled tyres to form the sole. Visit them just steps from the city hall and look over their unique and elegant styles that compliment an easy going lifestyle. Don’t miss the sustainable decoration!

BCN PAINTING ROUTE

PARRUP

Carrer de Lledó 17 · T. 93 319 9178 bcnpaintingroute@outlook.es · www.facebook.com/BCNPaintingRoute

Banys Nous 20 · www.parrup.com www.facebook.com/ParrupBarcelona

New gallery in the heart of the Gothic quarter showcasing oil paintings on canvas and other works of art. High quality paintings starting from just 40 The perfect place to find the perfect painting of Barcelona.

PARRUP brings together the best from local designers, carefully selected unique pieces, limited edition products and finely crafted clothes, jewellery, art and furniture.Why PARRUP? Because they love talented people. Because they want to showcase what they can offer. Because they believe in the local economy and production transparency. Because they don’t believe in the ‘made in Asia’ business. Nothing more but nothing less.

24 KILATES

MICROGESTIO

Located in the Born shopping area, this exclusive streetwear store has become internationally renowned thanks to its exciting design collaborations with many famous brands like New Balance, Stussy, Reebok, Lacoste, Puma, Asics, Nike, Saucony, Adidas, New Era and more. Definitely worth a look.

Need help with your Mac? Want to buy an iPad? Microgestió supplies everything a Mac user needs, including service and repairs, classes on how to use different programs, useful tutorials, and the latest new products on the market. You can count on Microgestió for all of your Mac needs... and a friendly, professional service!

ARTSHOP

FURTIVO SKATEBOARDING

Sitges 7 · T. 93 676 2311 · www.facebook.com/Artshopbcn

www.furtivoskateboarding.com

Located close to Plaça Catalunya, the Artshop has a full range of artist supplies and a small family gallery. If you need a simple watercolour set or any other specialist items, they can be bought or ordered for you at the shop.

Furtivo Skateboarding is an online skateboarding shop with selected products of premium brands, offering hi-end skateboarding products. Pro-Models represent 80 percent of their stock. You can find: Plan B, Flip, Blind, Cliché, Darkstar, Enjoi, Element, BLVD, Toy Machine, Foundation and many more. They deliver world wide in 24 to 48 hours. Register now to take advantage of their offers and promotions.

Josep Anselm Clave 3 (Drassanes) · Mon-Sat 10.30am-2pm, 4pm-8pm · T. 93 317 5115 · www.mundodehamacas.es

Comerç 29 · T. 93 268 8437 · www.24-kts.com

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Baixada de la Llibreteria 8 · T. 93 317 2929 www.caboclobrasil.com

València 87/89 · T. 93 454 1001 · info@microgestio.es www.microgestio.com

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48 DIRECTORY

JOBS To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS www.classiďŹ eds.barcelona-metropolitan.com For the latest jobs for English speakers in Barcelona, follow us on Twitter @bcnmetropolitan

WOULD YOU LIKE TO WORK AS A MODEL? We are looking for new models & actors for 2014. We are interested in candidates of all types and ages. You can drop by our offices from Monday to Friday: 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-18:00 Email your cv to : jma@modelos.net Visit our website: www.modelos.net Dolors Masferrer i Bosch, 20-22, entlo, 08028

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DIRECTORY 49

CLASSIFIEDS Hundreds more ads on our website www.barcelona-metropolitan.com For sale, for rent, personals, job vacancies, job search, classes and more. ROOMS FOR RENT Small room in Sagrada Familia The room is small, furnished and has an interior window. Price is €250 + gastos (elect, gas, water & wifi) + one month of deposit. The room is available now. We are searching for clean and responsible people to share our apartment. The building location is perfect for students or employees; it has a doorman and is one minute away from metros, bus station, bicing, markets, gym, library, McDonald, KFC, Burger King and Sagrada Familia the church Contact Elio 662 960 985 (whatsapp if needed) Double Room Singles/Couples The apartment is 80m2 and is located 5 minutes walk from the Glories Plaza, near the 22@ district, the major hub of business and technological innovation of Barcelona. Nearby is a shopping center with cinemas, supermarkets, restaurants, bars and the train station Renfe-Clot, from where you can to the Costa Brava’s beaches. The street flat is very quiet and you will never have trouble sleeping. Price is €400, including all bills + monthly cleaning. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Rooms to let I have three rooms to let within a 3rd floor apartment in Gràcia. Prices range from €425-€500 per month. All bills are included, water, electricity, internet and a cleaner twice a week. 2 month minimum stay. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Room for rent (girl, non-smoking). Pretty flat, in front of the metro. (Yellow line - Via Júlia) €250 including bills. Call: 634 185 483/ 638 176 190 Room for a girl, with bookshelf, table, big closet. Excellent area, by Montjuïc (2 min from Magic Fountain). Clean, calm building with good neighbours. In the flat we have a kitchen with all utilities. The bathroom is shared with only with one other person. Clean and nice atmosphere. We need one person (non-smoker). €260, costs included, (security deposit €200). Send Whatsapp to Liene y Ivan – 644 255 416 Room for rent 8 minutes from Sants station. Rent per day, €25, per week €170 or per month €300. Exterior, internet, bathroom, kitchen. For more details please contact me. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). I have a rooms available in my flat on Gran Via, Exiample, below Sagrada

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Familia and less than 1000m from the Mediterranean sea and Port Olympic. The room has a 140x200 size bed, storage, table etc. bedlinen and towels included. Fully-equipped kitchen, living room, bathroom with bathtub/ shower, washing machine. Internet. Beautiful flat with authentic details, original brick floor. The flat has a good relaxed atmosphere, a great place to stay short-term or live long-term. At the moment we are two girls living here. We are working and the flat is very quiet. It is not a “party-flat”, it’s a place for living in and feeling good. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Bright double room with very comfortable bed (135cm) & balcony in a two-bedroom flat in a quiet pasaje in the heart of the Eixample, close to all public transport. Renting from now until end of March to share with an easygoing, sporty, hardworking 40-something woman and two lovable cats. Ample living space, big kitchen & beautiful sunny patio/deck. €450/ month with utilities & wifi included. For further information & photos, please send me an email. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). APARTMENTS TO RENT €550 Flat in central BCN We rent a 60sqm fully-furnished flat in central Barcelona, in Barri de Sant Antoni (metro L2), very near Universitat and Catalunya (L1). It is in a quiet street with trees called Princep de Viana. The flat has two bedrooms: a very large one with a balcony and a smaller one which fits a double bed, a wardrobe, a desk and a bookcase. The kitchen and bathroom were recently renovated and the electrics are new too. It is on the second floor, no lift. We are looking for long term tenants. Flat rented by owner. Legal contract, deposit required. Monthly rent is €550. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). 3-bedroom furnished in Poble Nou A sunny 4th floor furnished apartment with 3 bedrooms,one bathroom and a balcony. No elevator. One bedroom is a double room and the other 2 are single. The apartment is located 2 blocks from Glories shopping center and a 15 minute walk to the beach. Transportation nearby include the tram and the metro stops Glories (L1: red line) and Clot (L1: Red and L2: Purple lines). 750€/month One month deposit. Photos upon request. (rented directly by owner, so no agency fees) (Contact via our online Classifieds section).

Apartment in Plaza España Nice furnished apartment in Plaza España, two rooms with built in wardrobes, two bathrooms, modern kitchen, parquet, nice views from balcony to street, sunny. Pictures upon request. 950€/month plus bills. xindecesar@gmail.com Comfortable studio-flat for one or two people. Situated in the heart of Barcelona. Just beside Santa Maria del Mar, it’s very near the Picasso Museum, ‘Barri Gotic’ area, the Cathedral and 5 minutes from Barceloneta beach. Available from December 16th from €30 per night, kitchen, bathroom, WiFi. Contact on +34 627 273 347 or +34 619 580 562 Beautiful apartment in Born. Available January 2-May 24, 800 month. Ending date flexible. It has 2 bedrooms (double and single),living room, dining room, fully equipped kitchen. Large bathroom with tub/ shower and balcony. Top floor corner flat of 70 sq meters with views of the Santa Maria Del Mar church. Access to the roof terrace. Original and cork tile floors. Fully furnished. Look up Facebook page Sunny Borne Sublet for the album of photos. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Studio for rent, furnished. 40 square metres, silent. Kitchen: cooker, oven, refrigerator, cabinets. Living room of 20 square metres. Bedroom. Renovated bathroom, washer and dryer. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). OFFICE 65 sqm interior studio-office Gràcia: Baro Barre 12. Metro Vallcarca. Call 693 726 111 Office for health professional. Well located, in Passeig de la Bonanova, near many schools. Preferably health professional related to children (psychologist, speech therapist, dietician...). Only €300/month. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). FOR SALE Elliptical exercise bike We are moving into a new place where we don’t have enough space for an elliptical exercise bike Bollinger that we bought a while ago (and barely used). It’s in perfect condition and has a distance/heart rate/pulse monitor. Price €120. For more information 652

672 466 (call or whatsapp) Dishwasher Zanussi We are selling dishwasher Zanussi Temple Line Model Number ZDF2020. We bought it a year ago – but it is used only 6 months, as we moved to a new flat where there was no space for it. It is very silent and it is like new. We are selling it for €160 – the price in the store is €300. For more information 652 672 466 (call or whatsapp). Dinning table and chairs Beech dining table extends to 3 meters and 6 chairs. Was over 1,000 euros new. Now €220. Please email for photos. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Luxury Double Bed King size, luxury double bed with leather headest and surround. Size 225 x 175 wide, Special mattress, extremely comfortable. Cost over €1,500, must sell - €250. Tel Paul 663801325 Website for Sale Up and running website for sale €9000! Contact dave@primeromano. com www.primeromano.com LANGUAGE EXCHANGE Italian/Spanish for English. Buongiorno! Would you like to improve your italian or spanish? Would you like to help me to improve my english? Call me or write to me and we can organize weekly meetings just for a capuccino and nice chats together. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). My Spanish for your English. I am 35, a guy from Barcelona. I need to improve my English in exchange for my Spanish. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). SEEKING A young black boy seeks lover I am a black english young boy and I’m hoping to meet some one beautiful like you. I believe in simplicity, hononetsy and humility. I hope to meet you soon. (emmanuelsarfo@gmail.com or 632 012 504) Interesting, unusual man Fit, stylish, guapo, free-thinking artist/engineer 52 invites a shapely, bright-witted, n/s lady who’s seeking a soulmate/playmate to make swift contact. Thank you. (Contact via our online Classifieds section).

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50 BACK PAGE

Erin Purtle 36, Australian

OWNER of ONA Quiropractica ve your range of movement, your resistance to stress, help you sleep better, and generally give you more energy. The most interesting thing about chiropractic in Spain is that it has never been legally recognised. Seven years ago a group of chiropractors, myself included, tried to make it legal here. We were told that the only way we could pass a law is if we could get students graduating from a Spanish university with a chiropractic de-

It’s so nice to be able to walk to work, do my shopping in the market nearby and generally feel like a local. gree, which was, at that time, non-existent. The first decisions were made at a large seminar in Mallorca. We received funding from several contributors and put that money towards education consultants, which helped us get into the Universitat de Pompeu Fabra here in Barcelona. The Barcelo-

na College of Chiropractic now has around 183 students, the first 50 are due to graduate on July 4th this year. Barcelona is seen as a kind of Mecca for chiropractors in Spain. Raising the money to create this course, we hosted a lot of seminars here in the city. This brought a lot of chiropractors here, who met more people and so on. I live in Gràcia and have been here since I arrived in Barcelona. I think that makes a big difference to my life. It’s so nice to be able to walk to work, do my shopping in the market nearby and generally feel like a local. I fill my spare time with many things, whether it’s a weekend away or simply enjoying the odd vermut in the area. My beautiful Jack Russell, Tula, takes up a lot of my time. I have no intention of returning to Australia in the future. I have so much going on here and I feel that I have already achieved a lot. For the moment I’m happy taking each day as it comes and enjoying my work and life at a steady pace.

ONA Quiropractica, Carrer del Torrent de l’Olla 100. Tel. 93 219 7321 Interview by Daniel Whitehead. Photo by Amanda Astramowicz

By Ben Rowdon

scoop

I’m originally from Mulwala in New South Wales, Australia. After studying chiropractic in Melbourne, I lived and worked in London for two years, then came to Barcelona where I have been for ten years now. My first job in Spain was at a chiropractor in Sabadell. I worked there for three years before opening my own practice on a small street in Gràcia. It was just a small local but I was really surprised at how quickly it grew, which I think was down to the location itself. Gràcia has an amazing sense of community, so word quickly spread. Opening up the practice was a little scary. It took me two or three years to become fluent in Spanish, so it wasn’t as complicated as it could have been. After five years I moved ONA Quiropractica to Torrent de l’Olla, going from just a small 40-squaremetre space to 180 square metres. Ona means “wave” in Catalan, and “good” in Basque. I’ve always really liked the word. Our clients are probably 95 percent Spanish, a small percentage are foreigners. The attitudes we receive towards our work are amazing. People here are really open minded towards the idea of chiropractic. Everyone comes in with the same 24 vertebrae and sacrum but every spine is different, depending on their lifestyle and what they have been through. We really try to understand the story and help the person through that process. The spine and nervous system are essential for good health and wellbeing. Treatment can really impro-

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