Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 229

FEBRUARY 2016 Nº 229

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FREE AS A BIRD? BARCELONA’S PARROT POPULATION

15 MINUTE CULTURE FIX BITE-SIZED SHOWS FROM MICROCULTURA

SWEET TALK TRADITIONAL CONFECTIONERS AT WORK

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MUSIC

FASHION

RESTAURANT REVIEWS

A PLACE OF MY OWN

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contents

METROPOLITAN contributors

{ISSUE 229} FEBRUARY 2016 RegulaRs 06 08 10 33 34 36 49 50

New in Town In the City A Place of My Own Fashion Travel Food & Drink Coaching Column Interview

FeatuRes 12 RePORt: tHe CRaFt BeeR ReVOlutION Suzie Docherty takes a look at what’s brewing on the city’s thriving craft beer scene.

18 BaRCelONa’s PaRROt POPulatION The city’s trees host seven species of parrot, and a population of over 10,000.

29 CultuRe FIX 15-minute shows from Microcultura.

30 tHe sWeet taste OF tRaDItION Behind the scenes at the city’s oldest sweet shops.

34 CaVa COuNtRY Take a trip to the home of Spain’s favourite sparkling wine.

WHat’s ON 20 22 24 26

Music Art Misc.

Pullout Calendar

DIReCtORIes 41 43 44 49

Food & Drink Health & Beauty Business Jobs

Publisher The Noise Lab S.L. Managing Director Andrea Moreno Consulting Editor Esther Jones Editor Carol Moran Art Director Aisling Quigley Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell Editorial Assistants Rosalind Bond, Eimear Corrigan, Rachel Huffman, Christina McKeon Frutuoso Design Assistant Melissa Fry, Jessica Goring Contributors Jeff Brodsky, Suzie Docherty, Miquel Hudin, Melissa Leighty, Sam Mednick, Toni Rocamora, Tori Sparks, Sam Zucker Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial: editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com General: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com Carrer Duc 6, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486 www.barcelona-metropolitan.com The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited. Depósito legal: B35159-96

Rosalind Bond Originally from Oxfordshire, UK, Rosie studied French and Spanish at the University of Manchester, which gave her the opportunity to live abroad, first in Paris and then Buenos Aires. She loved the experience so much that when she finished her degree she decided to move again, this time to Barcelona. She loves exploring the city and discovering hidden places, something writing for Metropolitan helps her to do. She balances writing with teaching English and her latest hobby, swing dance.

JEFF BRODSKY Dividing his time between two titans of architecture like Barcelona and Chicago isn’t something Jeff takes for granted. When not writing, he works as a translator and English teacher.

He arrived in Barcelona in 2013 via an admittedly indirect route, living in Arizona, Seville, Amsterdam, North Carolina and Madrid. Despite not having stepped foot in Seville for over five years, he still speaks Spanish with an Andalusian accent. Jeff’s writing has been published in newspapers and magazines in America and Europe.

Suzie Docherty Originally from Glasgow, Scotland, Suzie arrived in Barcelona three years ago, having spent the previous 12 months swanning around Southeast Asia, researching and creating city guides about some of her favourite destinations. Now permanently based in the city and working as an editor and freelance writer, she can’t imagine living anywhere other than Barcelona, an evereclectic place that captivates creativity and indulges her love of music, film and most importantly, food.

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IN THE CITY

new IN TOWN

TRADITION WITH A TWIST

SECRETS DEL MEDITERRANI. PASSEIG DE SANT JOAN 28.

This new shop-restaurant in the Born experiments with traditional products in new combinations. It’s a place to enjoy a range of tapas from across Spain, or to buy traditional Mediterranean products with a twist. From pasteles de carne to creative empanadillas de hojaldre, a gastronomic treat is in store whether you choose to eat in or purchase the products to go. The space was designed by Barcelona studio Dröm Living, who wanted to create “a new Mecca for Barcelona foodies,” explained interior designers Laura and Mireia.

The interior walls of this former bakery have been removed to bring in more natural light, whilst the restoration of old ceiling beams and the original mosaic-tiled floor reflects the overall philosophy of the shop: reinventing the old to make something new and improved.

There’s even an authentic fishing boat as you enter the shop, creating a maritime atmosphere where old and new come together and a passion for Mediterranean food is constant throughout. www. facebook.com/SecretsdelMediterrani

MAKE YOURSELF AT HOME

PARKING PIZZA. LONDRES 98.

Marcos Armenteras and his partner Berta Bernat didn’t want to open a restaurant, and their unpretentious pizza bar is explicitly not that. The idea is that you could be eating at a friend’s house. This concept has driven all their business decisions, from the decor to the food. Everything is done in the way that they would do it at home. The pizzas are, therefore, not from Naples or Rome, but simple and homemade, using high-quality ingredients and flavour combinations that the couple enjoy for dinner. The space itself could be a garage off someone’s house, an idea that inspired the name ‘Parking Pizza’, and the high ceilings and walls have an industrial look, with retro features adding to the general feeling of factory-chic. The five long, scrubbed wooden tables are shared between all of the diners and the seats are actually upside-down cardboard boxes, helping to create an atmosphere of chilling in a friend’s garage sharing some pizza and beers. The owners hope to attract an openminded clientele to enjoy a place that they’ve poured their hearts and souls into. www.parkingpizza.com

GRAPE ESCAPES

WWW.WINESTYLETRAVEL.COM City life can leave little time to relax and appreciate the finer things in life. This Barcelona-based tour company seeks to make life less stressful by combining food and wine with travel. The company was founded by Barcelona-natives Glòria Vallès and Raul Gassol, who share a passion for gourmet food and exquisite wine.

Winestyle organises tailor-made trips, operating with travel agency Tarannà Viajes con Sentido, who are renowned for their efforts in sustainability, having won ‘Best Provider of Responsible Excursions’ at the Premis de Turisme Responsable de Catalunya 2013. From trips within Spain, including La Rioja, Penedès and Priorat, to more international adventures in South Africa, the USA, South America and Asia, a focus on culture, wellness, architecture and sustainability is what makes Winestyle trips dynamic and unique. They ensure your food and wine experience respects both the environment and the farmers that produce the products.

5 ALTERNATIVE PLANS FOR VALENTINE’S DAY KEEP THEM IN THE DARK Take your partner out for a sensual and strangely cathartic experience.

Eating unknown food in complete blackness makes the other four senses much more important and sensitive, and you’ll notice how easily they are misled by your vision, while the experience of being served by blind waiters will make you see disability in a different light.

Dans Le Noir. Passeig Picasso 10. barcelona.danslenoir.com SPICE IT UP Forget the chocolate and roses and indulge in some seductive eroticism instead at El Molino’s Cabaret Experience. This show celebrates the best of cabaret with male and female performers bringing the audience ‘impossible stunts and unlimited imagination’. It’s on until February 22nd, and the special Pack Cabaret for €50 gets you two tickets and a bottle of cava to enjoy during the show. www.elmolinobcn.com

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BACK TO BACCHUS

BACANAL. SEPÚLVEDA 164.

The Bacanales or Bacchanalia were Roman festivals held in honour of Bacchus the Greco-Roman god of wine, involving copious amounts of food and drink. Quite a promising source of inspiration for one of Eixample’s newest additions, Bacanal, which covers almost every base—cafe, bar, restaurant and exhibition space.

Local artists are invited to display their work free of charge on the tall white-washed walls of the light-filled space, framed by concrete columns and high ceilings. The recycled wooden window frames allow natural light to flood in, ensuring you get to enjoy your El Magnifico coffee whilst basking in the Barcelona sun. Brunch and Brinner (breakfast and dinner) are on the menu, which contains creative vegetarian options along with a vast selection of cocktails, beers and wine. Co-owner, Israel, assures that the portions are generous, which is surprising as the prices are affordable, and there is plenty of space for those with babies, buggies, bikes and dogs. Bacanal is only getting started, but it feels as though it will soon be one of Sant Antoni’s most bustling hubs. www.facebook.com/bacanal.bcn

COME DI(N)E WITH ME A night of terrifying strangeness awaits at La Posada Maldita, a themed dining experience catering to those with a morbid sense of fun. Throughout the night you’ll meet a host of haunting characters, such as the Butcher, who makes a living from tearing apart human flesh and serving it to his diners. La Posada Maldita. Avinguda de la Flor de Maig 57, Cerdanyola del Vallès.

FIGHT FOR FUN Avoid any lovers’ tiffs by venting your frustrations in an energetic game of paintball or lasertag. You get to spray him/her with paint or zap them with a laser and still hug afterwards. Play Point is located in central Barcelona and offers games for between two and 20 players. Comte Borrell 88. play-point.es.

TWO FOR TANGO Tango—it’s the the ultimate dance of simmering passion and sensuality. So get in touch with your passionate sides and take a private class together at Desbande Tango, then enjoy a date night at one of the school’s Milonga evenings. Mare de Déu dels Desemparats 5. www.barnatango.com

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IN THE CITY

streetlife



TUSET

BLING BLING Tuset 8. www.blingblingbcn.com Claiming to be ‘the most exclusive club in town’, Bling Bling has a main dance floor—bedazzled with red, purple and gold and engulfed in Top 40 singles—along with VIP sections and a separate dance area that plays Latin pop and hip hop, where the fancy, privileged clientele loosen up a bit.

 THE SUTTON CLUB Tuset 13. www.thesuttonclub.com This super chic nightclub is not for everybody, as they point out in their promotional material: ‘We are not strange, we are dramatically different’.

But if you’re looking for a night out with the cool crowd, this is the place for you. The club’s floor space of 1,500 square metres is equipped with the latest lighting and sound technology, in order to house the best parties and events.

METROPOLITAN PEOPLE MIGUEL, 31, UNIVERSITY LECTURER

I like San Miguel as it’s an established brand. My favourite place to go drinking is Poble Sec because it’s where I have the best memories with my friends.

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



We go uptown this month for a night on the tiles of the short but lively Carrer de Tuset.

GATSBY Tuset 19. gatsbybarcelona.com Gatsby, the newcomer on this street’s happening scene, belongs on a list of clandestine, speakeasy, so-muchmore-than-dinner establishments. Its entrance is hidden within an obscure, tacky mall, but once inside the black and gold doors, the glitz and glamour of a Twenties-style cabaret embraces you. As you eat and drink in areas of bold Art Deco-inspired geometric shapes and strong colours, you will be entertained right and left by interactive performers that change every 15 minutes. So, why not treat yourself to a night of zest? After all, ‘A little party never killed nobody’, as their slogan suggests.

LA BOLSA Tuset 17.

At La Bolsa, beer prices fluctuate like share prices on the stock exchange. Depending on who’s drinking what and how much of it they’re drinking, the price of a beer can skyrocket or plummet. Daniela and Sara, both 23 from Portugal, came in for pre-drinks after a friend suggested it to them. “It’s a place everyone on Erasmus has to try at least once,” said Daniela. “But actually we found that there are a lot of locals that come here, too,” added Sara.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE BEER AND WHERE’S YOUR FAVOURITE PLACE TO DRINK IT IN THE CITY?

LAURA, 44, ACCOUNTANT

I don’t actually like beer that much! But with friends, I love enjoying a drink around Las Ramblas—the hustle and bustle of people and always finding new, hidden places on the side streets.

ROBERTO, 30, ANTIQUE BUYER AND SELLER

Budweiser is the best, but while I’m in Barcelona, I’ve been enjoying Barcino beer a lot.

For me, anywhere near La Sagrada Familia is a great place for the view and atmosphere.

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 AJOBLANCO Tuset 20. www.ajoblancorestaurant.com Fusing contemporary design with a carefree, yet elegant spirit, this year-old restaurant is a perfect addition to Tuset. Ajoblanco’s attentive team offers a modern Mediterranean menu with explosive flavours, accompanied by spectacular cocktails and an extensive Spanish wine list. To keep up with the street’s night-time buzz, they also present live music every Wednesday, and DJ sessions every Thursday, Friday and Saturday.



HOT BAR Tuset 20.

This bar changes things up on Tuset.

Playing music that makes you want to dance like nobody’s watching and offering drinks at reasonable prices for the area, they strive for a more downto-earth atmosphere. “A mix of people come here,” said Patricia, one of Hot’s weekend bartenders. “They’re all looking for a party, and we give it to them.”

The biggest draw for partygoers is the shots bar in the back, where they can play a variety of games to try to win free chupitos. Spin a wheel, landing on €3, 2x1 or FREE! Draw a card higher than the bartender’s and your shot is free. Or roll the dice to see how much to pay for your shot. Good luck!



THE NOBUKO Tuset 36. nobuko.es Upbeat dance music and sophisticated design set the tone for this swanky sushi restaurant that turns into a cocktail bar at midnight. The exceptional uramakis, tasty hot rolls and mochi with perfect elasticity, make up for the average service, and as the night goes on, you can join the stylishly dressed crowd in ordering bottle service or XXL mojitos. Chilled shots on the house and free passes to the nearby clubs end a night at The Nobuko.

LINDA, 22,

PASTRY CHEF

My favourite beer is Punk IPA because I love its fresh tropical taste and slight bitter hints. There’s no better place to drink it than at Brewdog in Eixample.

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IN THE CITY

A place of My OWn

An arch t Bénédict between room and

BÉNÉDICTE, OWNER OF MESA BONITA, USES HER FAMILY’S RENOVATED SANTS APARTMENT AS A LIVING SPACE AND CREATIVE WORKSHOP. TEXT BY RACHEL HUFFMAN. PHOTOS BY MELISSA FRY.

O

riginally from Normandy, France, Bénédicte Bodard lived in Los Angeles for 18 years before moving to Barcelona. In L.A., she worked as a wardrobe stylist for films, television and commercials, but said that after so many years surrounded by the rich and famous she was ready to get back to reality. Plus her American husband, Robin, had more work in Europe than in the States.

“We were travelling so much for his job, we were becoming a family circus,” Bénédicte joked, “and with the birth of our daughter, hotel rooms were feeling smaller and smaller.”

Bénédicte and her family relocated in 2001, and found their first apartment in the Eixample. At the time, the real estate market was booming. Every block seemed to include a giant cement container piled high with debris from apartment renovations, and Bénédicte found her next calling. She began dumpster diving for Modernista hydraulic floor tiles, an essential design characteristic of the city’s past that was being devalued and discarded.

A typical square tile weighs two kilogrammes. Bénédicte was finding them by the hundreds and hauling them home with her. Today, she estimates there are nearly 10,000 tiles with over 1,000 different patterns in her workshop. Her workshop, or her cave as she lovingly calls it, is underneath her family’s current apartment in Sants and used to be a soap factory until the Fifties. With crumbling brick walls and plenty of dust, it’s “where the dirty work happens”. When Bénédicte discovers new tiles, she has to chisel up to three inches of chunky, hardened cement from the backs by hand, restore the fronts and return them to their natural beauty. “It’s harsh work,” she admitted. “It’s not easy.” And she certainly can’t maintain a manicure.

After the tiles are cleaned up, Bénédicte uses them in tables of all sizes, nightstands, frames and plant stands, and more recently her clients have requested her tiles for detailing in their apartments. People want them for backsplashes and around fireplace mantels. She had one woman who wanted a single row of tiles to mark the threshold of her room. “With just a few tiles you can give so much character to a space,” she said, and Bénédicte

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never lets clients leave with a pattern or product that she doesn’t believe fits their needs perfectly. “These aren’t just some mass-produced trinkets they’re buying, but a part of Barcelona. I want them to always look at their tiles with admiration.” And so her company, Mesa Bonita, was born.

About three years after moving to Barcelona and starting her own business, Bénédicte, along with Robin, started looking for a new place to buy. “I must have looked at hundreds of apartments,” said Bénédicte. “They went from bad to worse.” One ordeal stands out in her mind. She went to look at an old butcher shop in Gràcia, which hadn’t been properly cleaned. “I asked if it came with the smell,” she laughed. Finally, their real estate agent asked if they would consider looking in Sants. “The first thing I thought was, ‘but it’s so ugly’.” However, one day the couple was grabbing lunch in the neighbourhood and saw a for sale sign on a very nice, old building. During their first visit to the available principal apartment, they looked at each other and just knew they could do something wonderful with the space.

They hadn’t intended to buy a fixer-upper, but for some reason this apartment felt right, and the spacious terrace, which gets tons of sunlight, sealed the deal. Robin had remodelled a place before in his home state of Oregon, but it was Bénédicte’s first experience. And what an experience it was. “First of all, I can assure you, the apartment looked nothing like what you see today,” she emphasised. The main difference is the back of the apartment.

If you have made yourself an interesting home from home and would like to appear in our Place of My Own feature, please send an email to editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com.

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An arch that Bénédicte exposed between the living room and library

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What is now an open concept, with the kitchen, dining room, living room and library all flowing into one another, used to be five closed off rooms. Walls covered two of the high structural arches that Bénédicte’s plans exposed, and there was minimal natural light making its way through the thick, textured, yellowish glass in the doors leading to the terrace.

Remodelling an apartment is never easy, but what Bénédicte had to deal with was particularly difficult. With every step they took, a serious issue raised its head. Initially, they got “screwed” by the people who sold them the apartment. Then they found out their plans threatened the structural integrity of the building, constructed in 1898. At the time, Robin was also in hospital, unable to move. And to top it all off, the neighbours were less than helpful and, on occasion, showed their annoyance at the work being done. “The whole process was really quite painful,” admitted Bénédicte. Eventually everything was completed—if not exactly how they wanted—and they achieved a social environment where they have been living happily for 10 years now. “I think I’m so proud of what we have now because of everything we went through,” she said.

The couple often organises events at their apartment—cooking classes or dinners—and every year Bénédicte holds a Christmas market where she invites artists to show their work and usually has a chef cook for everyone in attendance. “We’ve gotten so many people some years that we’ve unfortunately had to turn some away.” But the main function of the apartment is as a showroom for Bénédicte’s tiles.

Beautiful tiled products line the walls of the hallway and living room, no two alike. Framed tiles spread across the dining room table and kitchen countertops. It’s hard to notice any other decorations in the vicinity. This is where Bénédicte picks her clients’ brains to uncover their true purpose for her tiles, before she ever takes them to the cave. “It would be too overwhelming for them to start there,” she said. Whether you believe it or not, Bénédicte has every tile’s pattern memorised, and once she understands what a client needs, she can lead them downstairs, directly to the stack they desire.

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Brewing it for themselves

THE GLOBAL CRAFT BEER REVOLUTION HAS WELL AND TRULY LANDED IN BARCELONA, CREATING A BURGEONING SCENE FOR ARTISAN BREWERS AND THE LOCAL GIANTS ALIKE. TEXT BY SUZIE DOHERTY.

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f you happen to be walking through the streets of Poblenou at just the right moment, you might catch a whiff of a distinctive smell as it wafts through the air. Familiar yet initially indefinable to most, it takes a while to place the satisfying scent of malt and hops. It’s an aroma that Barcelona residents are becoming more and more accustomed to, given that craft brewing has rapidly developed into a big business in Barcelona. Yes, it’s hip to like hops nowadays and craft beer bars, brew houses and breweries are opening at a staggering rate, not just across the city, but across the entire country.

Edge Brewing is just one of the latest exponents of artisan ales and craft beers in Barcelona, having put the city firmly on the map by winning RateBeer’s highly coveted ‘Top New Brewer in the World’ title in 2014.

Taking many of its cues from the US, where the craft beer business is booming, at Edge and numerous other city-based brewers, American influence flows, quite literally, through the beer, with hops sourced directly from the States. From their relatively modest, yet expertly equipped factory in Poblenou, both the aforementioned scent and an ever-increasing volume of quality beer are emerging.

“Barcelona is at a great crossroads and it’s exciting to be part of something that’s developing, rather than fully formed,” offered Robin Barden, Beer Ambassador for Edge. “That award attracted a lot of attention, not only to us as a company, but to craft brewing and beer in Barcelona as a whole, which is great as it’s a place that maybe people never thought about in terms of brewing ability before.”

Indeed, it feels like everyone currently involved in craft brewing here is getting to play a founding role in shaping the scene, rather than just fitting in. Over the past six years, plentiful options for sampling artisan amber nectar have popped up citywide and, from bars to breweries, an increasing number of people in Barcelona are choosing to make beer their career. But this phenomenon isn’t restricted to the Catalan capital, with brewing on the rise throughout Europe. According to the most recent figures published

by The Brewers of Europe association, the number of breweries across

Photo by Melissa Fry.

EUROPE is home to an estimated

80 DIFFERENT Photo by Melissa Fry.

beer styles and over 40,000 BEER brands

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the continent has almost doubled since 2008, with 700 new additions in 2014 alone. As stated in Cerveceros de España’s latest annual report, Spain was Europe’s fourth largest producer of beer in 2014, behind Germany, the United Kingdom and Poland respectively, producing an impressive 33,620 million hectolitres of the stuff—an increase of 2.8 percent on the previous year. What’s more, 90 percent of the beer consumed in Spain is made nationally, proving that there’s plenty to keep the beer lover’s palate happy close to home.

By the end of 2014, it was reported that there were 332 active breweries operating in the country, of which 314 fall into the category of ‘microbrewery’; a figure that has risen over 1000 percent from a mere 27 since 2009. Barcelona province has the largest concentration of these microbreweries, with 38 at last count, but this has undoubtedly increased since the most recent reports were published. So why the sudden interest?

One factor could be that Barcelona’s existing drinking culture lends itself particularly well to the scene, which is more about sampling small-sized tipples than pouring back pints. In fact, in terms of per capita consumption of beer, Spain comes in at 25th in Europe, a modest position when you consider the volume the country produces.

RAISING THE BAR Despite this fairly rapid ascent, craft brewing is still a relatively young industry here. Of course, the sector has been represented on a small scale for several decades. Draft institutions and brewers, such as La Cervesera Artesana, Llúpols i Llevats, L’Ambicus, La Cerveteca, and Cervecería Jazz, have been just a few of the local pioneers, along with the late Steve Huxley, who, originallly from Liverpool, is somewhat of a local industry legend, often credited for Catalunya’s recent craft beer revolution. Off the back of these trailblazers, a new slew of brew pub and brewers is emerging. Brands and establishments such as Mingus, Homo Sibaris, Chivuo’s, Barcelona Beer Company, Black Lab, Garage, and BierCaB—also a RateBeer award winner for Best Beer Bar in Spain—are just a handful of places that have set up shop in recent years. And, an influx of successful international artisan labels have also begun to make their mark on the map. Big brands, such as Brewdog and Mikkeller, have added to the liquid landscape in the past year, making their home in an area Barden affectionately dubs ‘Bierxample’, located above Gran Via, just west of Universitat.

"BEER, BEFORE THIS NEW WAVE, WAS PERHAPS BEING ENJOYED WITHOUT MUCH THOUGHT, WHEREAS CRAFT BEER HAS A FOCUS ON FLAVOUR." It is, however, still a little landscape, and it should come as no surprise to most that Spain’s six main breweries, which include Mahou San Miguel, Heineken España and Estrella Damm, account for almost 90 percent of the market in terms of beer production. In fact, the general consensus is that craft brewing’s share doesn’t surpass one percent.

Yet, despite its small stake in the industry, craft beer has slipped into the popular psyche here in Barcelona. It could be something to do with the current popularity of artisan goods and obsession with production transparency. People are becoming pickier about the provenance of their produce and are less willing to accept whatever they’re given. “If you’ve been living in a city where only two options have been available and then you suddenly have a huge choice, it stands to reason you’re going to at least explore those options and demand more,” Barden suggested. “Beer, before this new wave, was perhaps being enjoyed without much thought, whereas craft beer has a focus on flavour. Now we have a very diverse, inquisitive public who want a variety of options—they want to discover what beer has to offer and know more about it.” Matt Boder of Black Lab, the city’s first

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CRAFT BEER

YINGREDIENTSY





 

BARLEY

HOPS

YEAST

WATER

YTHE BASIC BREWING PROCESSY Time in the mash tun 3 hours

MASH

Time in the kettle 3 hours

BOIL

MASH TUN

KETTLE

1

2

FERMENT

Fermentation takes 10 days

FERMENTATION

3

CONDITION

Conditioning takes 15 days

CONDITIONING

4

Y T H E B E E R I N D U ST RY I N E U RO P E Y 6517 breweries operating 2 million jobs

1% of European employment

38.43 billion litres produced in 2014 8 billion litres exported Source: The Brewers of Europe Report 2015

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brewhouse and kitchen, concurred: “It’s also vital to see the equipment and ingredients as much as possible in a brewpub, because you’re connecting the public with the process. Even without having to ask, people understand a little about how their beer is made and what we do, which is important.”

CRAFT APPEAL So what about the big commercial brands? With the public thirsty for more options, even Barcelona’s biggest brewers don’t appear to be immune to the craft beer revolution, adopting at least the appearance of a more artisan approach in their beer making and PR. They, too, boast an ‘open door’ factory policy, designed to show the public their brewing method, and since 2008, Estrella Damm has launched a number of ‘special edition’ cervezas, many of which have the packaging and veneer of a craft offering. Moritz, as somewhat of a middleman between the big boys and the young craft crew, also now sells fresh, unpasteurised beer from its open factory space on Ronda de Sant Antoni.

In Barden’s opinion, this latter part can only be a good thing. “I’d always assumed that Moritz wouldn’t sell the unpasteurised stuff as it draws attention to the pasteurisation of their regular beer, but it’s great if they are.” He continued, “I think they probably would like to be associated with craft beer, as our type of brewing has the ‘cool factor’ that they maybe want to be linked to. It would be more interesting if you could actually see people brewing at Moritz, but in general, I think that move is to be applauded.”

Of course, in this ever-expanding market, branding is key to all of Barcelona’s breweries, big or small. From Estrella Damm emphasising their local identity and sponsoring almost every festival in town, to newbies highlighting their grain to glass, homebrew aesthetic, each uses their own unique selling point to try and attract attention. So where do brands such as city newcomers, yet craft veterans, Brewdog lie? Big enough to rapidly expand worldwide yet still trying to be true to the punk/alternative ethos they fervently promote, it begs the question—at what point does craft beer stop being a craft? Their added advantage has perhaps been in their marketing, which has been at least partially responsible for propelling the brand from a small set-up to a global sensation. But for Alex Rivera of Brewdog, good marketing is nothing without good beer. “Some people seem to think that successful marketing is there to mask a mediocre product,” he mused, “But you can be handsome and clever at the same time, can’t you?”

GOING MAINSTREAM In many fields, a move into the mainstream and increase in popularity can signify the death of a core fan base, and it’s interesting to see how this applies to craft brewing. Whilst quantity regulations laid out by the Brewer’s Association in the United States provides a clear definition of a microbrewery, and therefore craft beer, no such classification currently exists in Spain or Catalunya. Nor does this exist in Scotland, where Brewdog began and are still based. Rivero is dismissive of the relevance of quantity in this context. “I think that being larger can give greater assurance that the brewed product is consistently good. In places where the market is still small, many breweries will be able to operate manually, but if you take the US as an example, microbreweries can produce 10 times more than us and still be considered ‘craft’. It just depends to what extent you can continue giving priority to quality.” He continued, “It’s also about the spirit and personal way of doing things, this is what truly defines something as a craft.”

Photos from Edge Brewing

THE KEY, IT SEEMS, IS BRINGING QUALITY BEER TO THE MASSES, WHETHER ON A city-wide or global scale.

CRAFT BEER BAR CRAWL. Black Lab Brewhouse & Kitchen. Plaça Pau Vila 1. www.blacklab.es Garage Beer Co. Consell de Cent 261. garagebeer.co Brewdog. Casanova 69. www.brewdog.com BierCab. Muntaner 55. biercab.com Belchica. Villarroel 60.

Cervecería Jazz. Margarit 43. www.cerveceriajazz.com La Cerveteca. Gignàs 25. www.lacerveteca.com Ale&Hop. Basses de Sant Pere 10. www.aleandhop.com Mikkeller. València 202. mikkeller.dk Chivuo’s. Torrent de l'Olla 175. www.chivuos.com La Cervesera Artesana. Sant Agustí 14. www.lacervesera.net Lambicus. Tamarit 107.

Kælderkold. Cardenal Casañas 7.

La Resistència. Viladomat 107.

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BierCaB

Photos by Melissa Fry.

This opinion is echoed by members of the community in Barcelona, who are adamant that if the process and passion is there, and quality is strictly monitored, it definitely constitutes a craft beer. According to Boder, “Becoming a more industrial or automated process doesn’t mean that the beer no longer qualifies as a craft product, it just depends on the philosophy of the company.”

The key, it seems, is bringing quality beer to the masses, whether on a city-wide or global scale. This notion of solidarity within the scene and exploration of new flavours is perfectly summed up in the annual Barcelona Beer Festival, a gathering which brings together brews from across Catalunya, the continent and beyond. Along with July’s Poblenou Craft Beer Festival, and other smaller-scale gatherings, this festival celebrates Barcelona’s increased interest in craft brewing and the extensive variety of brews now being produced in the local area.

Now in its fifth edition, the BBF returns to the Museu Marítim de Barcelona next month, with 60 taps and around 300 different beers on rotation. Mikel Rius i Vicente, one of the four organisers of the Barcelona Beer Festival, feels that the event has been at least partially responsible for the city’s current scene. “We’ve spent many years saying that craft beer was going to take off here, and it’s clear there’s been an exponential growth. I think we’ve added our grain of sand to the mix and helped put Barcelona on the international brewing map. But like so many others, we’re just another player in this exciting revolution.” If ever there were figures to back up the official data from Cerveceros de España regarding the country’s increased interest in craft brewing, it would be those of the BBF, who have sold out each and every edition to date. “We couldn’t accommodate any more people”, said Vicente. “The first year we welcomed 10,000 people, then 20,000 came along to the second festival, and for each of the last three years, some 30,000 people have been in attendance. Given the demand and the increased quality, we’re working to try and increase our capacity for 2017.” Which is a good thing since it’s not just residents they need to cater for. In 2015, 21 percent of attendees came from overseas, of whom 43 percent travelled here specifically for the festival.

WILL IT ALL END IN BIERS? The disparity between the sales figures would imply that the biggest challenge facing the craft brewing industry comes from the established mainstream labels. But is this really the case? In fact, with so many new artisan options opening up, isn’t it possible that the market could become saturated with too much craft competition?

It’s a tricky one. Whilst the cultivation of new brands and tipples is actively encouraged here, the niche appeal of craft brew pubs could be somewhat in contradiction to the vast array of choice being offered. Elements such as food and special events are being relied on by some to set themselves apart. After all, craft brewing’s entry into the mainstream means that even the most generic of establishments often offer affordable artisan options.

“It used to be that if you wanted to get a good beer, you would cross the city just to get to one of the few craft bars,” considered Barden, “But now, great beer is much closer”. Perhaps there can be too much of a good thing, but for now, at least, it seems there’s room for everyone, with a community spirit prevailing over competitiveness. “I just see it as contributing to not only a growing field, but an increasingly diverse universe,” stated Barden.

“We all just have to differentiate ourselves a little bit.”

And there’s plenty in the pipeline for the future. More international brands are set to open up in the city this year, whilst Edge are planning for new collaborations and a heightened local presence, given that most of their beer is currently exported. Black Lab are also looking into the possibility of distilling spirits in their bar-come-factory, as well as incorporating local ingredients and techniques, such as brewing in local wine barrels to infuse the flavour onto the beer. And as hops begins to be cultivated on a small scale in Catalunya, there’ll no doubt be a few batches of beer with a distinctly different flavour coming to the city’s bars sometime soon.

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Birds of a feather A rose-ringed parakeet spotted in the Parc de la Ciutadella. It has been tagged by scientists who are studying movement of the parrots in the city. Photo by Abel Julien.

A SHORT INTRODUCTION TO BARCELONA’S TROPICAL PARROTS. TEXT BY JEFF BRODSKY.

I

f you keep in mind the hardship they face, you are more likely to empathise with them. So, despite the fact that a discarded seed from a date palm had just been rudely dropped square on the top of my head by one of these invasive foreigners, whose only apology was a teasing cackle before flying away to a nearby hackberry tree, I forgave. Then, I took shelter under the awning of a nearby kiosk.

Mothers are separated from daughters, fathers from sons. Some are smuggled in, others arrive within the limits of the law. Ripped from their homelands, often of warmer climes, many come as captives to be sold off for the private entertainment of the more well-heeled. Perhaps the luckiest are destined to escape almost immediately upon arrival at Barcelona–El Prat Airport or from the container ships at the port. The less fortunate, though, die after years in captivity.

But, for nearly all the escapees the ending is a happy one. Seven species of parrot are thriving right here in urban Barcelona—the highest number of parrot species in any European city. “We don’t think temperature is a factor,” said Abel Julien of the Institut Català d’Ornitologia, who has studied birds in Catalunya for more than 30 years and works as a nature tour guide. “They will stay in their colonised environments provided there is enough food for them throughout the year.”

First spotted in the city in 1975, their numbers were estimated at a mere 50, but with a vertiginous growth rate, there are now thought to be more than 10,000 parrots living in the Barcelona Metropolitan area.

Among the species in Barcelona are monk parrots, named thus for the

hood-like markings on their crown and nape of bright-green and grey feathers. At less than 30 centimetres in length, they are considered tiny for a parrot. Larger than the monks—think parrot-on-pirate-shoulder size— rose-ringed parakeets have powder-blue napes, tropical-green breasts and flesh-coloured or scarlet bills.

Like the monk and rose-ringed parakeets, nanday parakeets are mainly bright-green, but their faces, foreheads and beaks are masked in ebony as if they have been receiving a mud treatment at a health spa. From the top of their pale-pink talons to their lower thighs the nandays’ feathers are bellpepper red, endowing them with the illusion of wearing a pair of Eighties legwarmers.

“The rose-ringed parrots are harder to find, but you can spot them in the Parc de la Ciutadella and in the garden of the Barcelona Zoo,” explained Julien. “These birds like avenues with plane trees,” such as the big, white-and beige-barked trees ubiquitous in Barcelona—similar to the North American sycamore—with maple-like leaves. All seven of the species, however, can be seen everywhere. “They favour public parks and can be abundant and noisy,” said Julien. Keep an eye out for them in the gardens of Palau Reial de Pedralbes and the Parc de Cervantes on Avinguda Diagonal.

The city’s natural environment and human gleanings are a veritable smorgasbord for them: sweet, meaty hackberries are the bird’s caviar, the bark of eucalyptus trees their roughage; although they don’t abstain from bread crumbs or popcorn, and many backyard bird feeders serve as sites for effortless snacks. All parrots in Barcelona use their bills like a pair of shears to cut their food. If you observe them closely, you can see them employ their black leathery tongues to position their fare, gently and quickly patting it like a reluctant bather might test the water’s temperature with a pinky toe.

But how did these parrots get here from their tropical, South American homeland?

Well, firstly, Barcelona isn’t the only foreign home these birds have adopted. Since around 50 years ago, when they started being exported to

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Mitred parakeet.

Photo by Ramón Moller Jensen.

Fatigued pet owners, however, are not the only people unenamoured of the parrots. “The data available on the economic impacts on agriculture is scarce and mostly anecdotal, but they do seem to have a harmful effect on orchards around Barcelona,” said Dr. Vall-llosera Camps. Farmers in the Baix Llobregat complain about the parrots eating their corn and sunflower crops. And monk parakeets in particular, the only species in Barcelona that builds its own nests, have ruffled a few feathers. They like to construct their elaborate twig-nests around heating-emitting transformers atop utility poles, which can cause power outages and fires.

The peregrine falcon, a natural predator of the parrot, was reintroduced into Barcelona in 1999. “There are seven well-established pairs of the falcons,” said Julien. “That of the Sagrada Familia captures monk parakeets regularly.”

According to a 2013 Spanish law, the ‘possession, transportation and commercial trafficking of [monk parakeets] is prohibited’. “They can be hunted during the hunting season.” Julien continued. “However, during the rest of the year, they are protected just like any other bird and can only be killed if a special permit is requested. This permit will only be issued if some sort of damage can be demonstrated.”

After the unapologetic bombardment of the cast-off date palm seed, I considered looking into the feasibility of obtaining said permit, but opted instead to collect a pebble from the ground nearby and contemplated throwing the small stone in the parrot’s direction. However, as I took a deep breath in preparation, my target flew away into the azure sky. Neither the puzzled stares of passersby nor the quizzical expression of the man in the kiosk made me feel the deserved humiliation. Rather, it was the thought that I inhumanely treated a living being that hadn’t wanted to exchange its country for my adopted one in the first place.

SPOT THE SPECIES America, Western Europe and Russia, tropical parrots have been taking refuge between cornice brackets, nudging themselves beneath bay windows, poking under chimney cowls and swooping down abandoned smokestacks in Chicago, London, Brooklyn, Texas, Oregon and Paris.

The romantic, swashbuckling theory is that the parrots escaped from shipping crates at the airport or port. No ornithologist believes they flew here on their own. “The most common pathway of introduction of parrot species,” said Dr. Vall-llosera Camps, a Catalan researcher at the University of Adelaide, “is the pet trade.” Julien and his colleagues agree, calling the hitherto captive birds ‘escapees’, probably released from balconies and patios out into the Barcelona skyline by weary pet owners who had had enough of rasping screeches, cleaning cages and buying birdseed.

MONK PARAKEET (Myiopsitta monachus) • • • • • •

ROSE-RINGED PARAKEETS (Psittacula krameri) • •

Monk parakeet.

Photo by Ramón Moller Jensen.

Hood-like markings on their crown and nape of grey and bright-green plumage Less than 30 centimetres in length, considered tiny for a parrot.

Silver-blue flight feathers and greyish-white breast plumes Sociable species, usually occurs in large, noisy flocks of around 30 to 50 individuals Groups roost together at night Makes large, multi chambered twig-made nests

•

Powder-blue napes, tropical-green breasts and scarlet to flesh-colored bills Adult females’ neck rings are either nonexistent or of a shadowy, insipid grey Mature males range from deep red to black, like a choker

NANDAY PARAKEET (Aratinga nenday) • • • •

Bright-green Black faces, foreheads and beaks From the top of their pale-pink talons to their lower thighs feathers band bell-pepper red Also known as the black-hooded parakeet or nanday conure

• USEFUL RESOURCES www.birdwatchingbarcelona.com www.barcelonabirdingpoint.com/en www.birdinginspain.com

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WHAT’S ON

MUSIC 1st. Jacco Gardner Marula Café. Escudellers 49.

5th. The Maccabees Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

3rd. Kataklysm Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

3rd. Francky Goes To Point-à-Pitre Ateneu de Nou Barris. Portlligat 11-15.

4th. Joan Miquel Oliver Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

5th. Ellie Goulding Sant Jordi Club. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

5th. The Maccabees Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

6th. Burning Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

6th. Wolf Alice Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

8th. Parkway Drive Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

10th. The Tallest Man On Earth Barts. Paral·lel 62.

12th. Núria Graham and Germà Aire Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

PROVING THEMSELVES

THE MACCABEES. SALA APOLO. NOU DE LA RAMBLA 113. FEBRUARY 5TH. The Maccabees have been from London to Brighton and back, changing cities as their lives and music developed. The progression of their musical style can be seen in each new album they release, from the youthful simplicity of Colour it in (2007) to the more mature sounds of Wall of Arms (2009), filled with reflections on life, family and friends. Despite some criticism, their 2012 album, Given to the Wild, showed that the London lads had experimented with different sounds, but somehow still managed to keep the beauty and simplicity that is the Maccabees in songs such as ‘Ayla’. It’s full of emotion but has that same classic signature sound, showing the pure musical talent of the group. Now back in their native London, they have recorded their latest album, Marks to prove it (2015), in their Elephant and Castle studio. It’s not exactly the most serene setting to record an album, which seems to show through in the new electronic sounds created by the band. This time it’s even more raw, and a little angrier. It’s a long way from singing about wave machines, but it’s a strong album, guaranteed to fill Apolo with noise. www.sala-apolo.com

12th. Machine Head Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

13th. Marc Almond Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

13th. Tote King Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

19th. Glen Hansard Barts. Paral·lel 62.

20th. Antonio José Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

22nd. The Vintage Caravan Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

25th. Cola Jet Set Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

25th. Symphony X Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

26th. Birdie Steptoe Kasal de Joves Roquetes. Vidal i Guasch 16.

27th. Simple Plan Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

27th. Eduardo de la Calle Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

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STILL RAMBLING

GLEN HANSARD. BARTS. PARAL·LEL 62. FEBRUARY 19TH. Despite his notoriety for his performance in the Oscar-winning film, Once, along with his musical work as the frontman for The Frames, Glen Hansard manages to somehow keep a low profile. Having spent Christmas helping out local homeless charities in Dublin with his annual Christmas busk, he has also been busy writing, producing and touring, and recently received a Grammy nomination in the Best Folk Album category for his latest album, Didn’t He Ramble (2015). This spring will see Hansard and his band travel all over Europe, taking to the stage of Barcelona’s BARTS theatre as part of the city’s annual Mil·lenni Festival. As his second solo album, the lyrics show a new side to Hansard—less romance and more wisdom—that seem to be more of a reflection on the past. With prayer-like words of support, Hansard sings us through his life experiences, focusing on encapsulating specific feelings. His sound has become a bit more country, mixed with bluegrass and folk.

One thing Hansard has not changed is his ability to play a great live show. Constantly gigging around Ireland in intimate settings, he is well used to performing, guaranteeing that his show in BARTS will be a great session. www.festival-millenni.com FOR MORE MUSIC EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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N.COM

HIGHLIGHT

BIRD SONG

NÚRIA GRAHAM. SALA APOLO. NOU DE LA RAMBLA 113. FEBRUARY 12TH. Hailing from Catalunya’s medieval town of Vic, and of Irish descendants, Nuria Graham’s interesting roots and polyglot abilities are not the only impressive things about this young singer-songwriter: her music is magnificent. Melodies and lyrics seem to pour naturally out of her, like water from a spring. Having studied music from a young age, her refined skills can be heard in both her guitar and piano playing. Her instrumental talents are accompanied by her strikingly soulful voice, whose melange of accents give an extra dimension reminiscent of singers such as Damien Dempsey. In a recent interview with Indiespot, she stressed how it is difficult to define her music, rejecting comparisons to folk musicians. She could be compared to the sound of Norah Jones, but with more bite, and a bit darker. Having nurtured her talents from a young age, Graham was finally spotted whilst performing at a concert in La Jazz Cafe in Vic, and the rest is history. She has since supported huge acts, such as St. Vincent in Apollo, and appeared at Primavera Sound 2015, and she recently released her latest album, Bird Eyes (2015), produced by Primavera sound’s label, El Segell del Primavera. Despite disliking references to her age, there is an astonishing maturity to her lyrics—in songs such as ‘Dark Past’, for example—a sign of her awareness and ability to write muisc that will resonate with listeners of all ages. This February, Núria Graham is no longer the support act, as she takes to the stage of Apolo to headline her own show.

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WHAT’S ON

ART OPENINGS ARTS SANTA MÒNICA Black Tulip. To kick-off the 2016/17 cycle entitled ‘Xarxa Xande’, this exhibition reflects on what it is that makes an object cease to be an object and become a work of art. February 4th-March 10th. La Rambla 7.

Real Time. In a world where time often means money, curator Pau Waelder brings together contemporary art pieces that explore the relativity of time and our constant concern of belonging to the present. Until March 10th. La Rambla 7.

LAST CHANCE MACBA Carlos Bunga. Capella. For his intervention at the Capella MACBA, Portuguese artist Carlos Bunga takes inspiration from the origins of the building and its surroundings, to explore the use of urban space today through the use of everyday materials. Until February 7th.

Plaça dels Àngels 1.

LA VIRREINA Catalonia in Venice. Singularity.

Perception, the desires that drive mankind and the ultimate fear of technology taking over the human race inspired this project

by Catalan director and film producer Albert Serra. Until February 14th. La Rambla 99.

HARD TO WATCH

XCÈNTRIC. CCCB. MONTALEGRE 5. FEBRUARY 4TH, 11TH, 14TH, 18TH, 21ST, 28TH. Feeling up for a challenge? Xcèntric is the annual cinema cycle at the CCCB, and it goes beyond simply screening films. The common thread through all the films selected is that they are difficult to watch. This month, there will be six sessions of film screenings, beginning on the 4th with La voluptuosidad del mirar, three short-length silent films by James Herbert, who became famous for his videography work with the band R.E.M. These three films, Apalachee, Three and Silk, all use the technique of rephotography—a process that involves the photographing of nude bodies, the rephotographing of these images’ film and the subsequent product of the two, captured and layered. The cycle closes on the 28th with Spaces between the images. The films of Daïchi Saïto, which employs photochemical techniques whereby ultraviolet light is used to capture raw, multilayered images on screen. Colour, light and form are three vital areas on which Saïto’s filmography focuses, taking nature and natural landscape as a starting point. The two examples given above indicate the innovation and individuality that this series of films encapsulates, bringing a whole new artistic level to modern cinematography. www.cccb.org/xcentric

MNAC Undamaged. Still Lifes from the Spanish Golden Age. Nineteen paintings from the 17th century, when Spanish literature and art were at their finest. Works by Pedro de Camprobín and Juan de Arellano feature in this exhibition. Until February 28th.

Palau Nacional. Parc de Montjüic.

LA PEDRERA Modernisme. Art, Workshops, Industries.

The legacy of the Modernisme period is evident throughout the architecture in the Eixample district of the city, and this exhibition highlights the different crafts from this period, including hydraulic floor tiles from Bénédicte Bodard’s collection (more of which are shown in this month’s Place of My Own on page 10). Until February 7th. Provença 261.

FUNDACIÓ FOTO COLECTANIA Cara a cara. Come face-to-face with the inquisitive works of over 48 Spanish and Portuguese photographers who explore expression and the body. Until February 13th. Julián Romea 6.

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A TURNING POINT

1888. ÀNGELS BARCELONA. PINTOR FORTUNY 27. FEBRUARY 2ND-MARCH 11TH. Jorge Ribalta (Barcelona 1963), photographer, cultural activist and art critic, presents this photographic exhibition at Ángels Barcelona. The title of the exhibition, 1888, refers to the year of both the Universal Exhibition in Barcelona and the birth of the Kodak. The Universal Exhibition symbolised the climax of the urban modernisation processes that had been happening throughout the second half of the 19th century, and the invention of the Kodak allowed for a wider distribution of less-expensive cameras. Until that moment cameras had been the reserve of artists and the elite, so in this way photography, and therefore the representation of the city, started its journey of democratisation, which continues today with the widespread distribution of images on the internet. This project explores the notion that the city and photography are inseparable from the ideas of modernisation and the modern age. angelsbarcelona.com FOR MORE ART EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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HIGHLIGHT

THE LAST WORD

PIXELATED WORDS. ARTS SANTA MÒNICA. LA RAMBLA 7.

UNTIL APRIL 10TH. Words, spoken or written, are powerful tools that have the ability to create and destroy. From the Genesis creation story to a court judge giving sentence, words are both containers of important meanings and are contained within something beyond themselves: a voice, a pen and paper, a typed book or, in today’s digital age, computers. The latter presents a new kind of literature in the 21st century—digital literature. From emails to blogs to apps to eBooks specifically and exclusively produced to be read on digital devices, there exists a whole world of words that are never designed, programmed or created to be printed. In a world of smart phones, laptops and even smart watches, this exhibition takes a look at how we consume all the digital texts that we face in our lives and how our minds interact with them, through the use of touchscreen and other devices, to which we often don’t give a second thought.

Gone are the days of telegrams and writing letters. Even phone calls are a less popular form of communication nowadays; welcome to the age of SMS, email and digital literature. The exhibition is curated by Laura Borràs and Giovanna di Rosario, both international specialists from the Hermeneia digital group at the University of Barcelona. artssantamonica.gencat.cat

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WHAT’S ON

MISC. TWO TAKES ON A TRAGEDY

OTELLO. GRAN TEATRE DEL LICEU. LA RAMBLA 51-59. FEBRUARY 1ST-7TH. This classic opera almost didn’t see the light of day. After completing and premiering his opera Aida in 1871, Giuseppe Verdi felt it was about time he took early retirement and put an end to his career as a composer. Luckily, many of the people surrounding Verdi at the time, including Italian editor and musician Giulio Ricordi, quickly realised that this would be a waste of both time and profits, and set about finding some convincing inspiration that would capture Verdi’s attention and encourage him to go back to what he did best. Thanks to Ricordi’s powers of persuasion, Verdi’s take on the Shakespeare classic, Othello, made it to the stage in 1887 and has been capturing and inspiring audiences ever since. This month it comes to the stage of the Gran Teatre del Liceu, with the original libretto by Arrigo Boito.

In parallel, the Liceu is also showing Gioachino Rossini’s earlier version of Otello (February 3rd and 6th), which was first performed in 1816. Rossini’s version differs quite dramatically from both the original Shakespeare play and Verdi’s version—it is set in Venice (rather than Cyprus) and Jago’s role is less decisive. Don’t miss this unique opportunity to contrast both versions in the same season. www.liceubarcelona. cat

DANGEROUS DRIVING

TRIAL INDOOR BARCELONA. PALAU SANT JORDI. PASSEIG OLÍMPIC 5-7. FEBRUARY 7TH. The big event on every motorcyclist’s calendar, El trial indoor de Barcelona, celebrates its 39th anniversary at the Palau Sant Jordi this month. The event, the first ever indoor motorcycle competition, was created in 1978 by Jaime Alguersuari, the editorial director of Solo Moto magazine, who had the vision of bringing the sport of professional motorcycling, and its most famous protagonists, to its Spanish fans. Some things have changed since 1978—the event is now much bigger and entrance costs €15 (in 1978 it was free), but the trial’s central goal, to bring world-class motorcycle riders directly to their fans, hasn’t. Toni Bou is top of the list, with an impressive 18 world titles at both indoor and open air events. Other stars set to appear are: Adam Raga and Albert Cabstany, second and third place in the world, respectively, in 2015; and Spanish riders Jeroni Farjardo and Jaime Busto.

Guaranteed to provide a visual spectacle and adrenaline-fuelled feats of motorcycle skill, this promises to be a thrilling experience for aficionados and novices alike. trialendurobcn.com

HORROR SHOW

CIRCO DE LOS HORRORES-CABARET MALDITO. PORT VELL. FEBRUARY 3RDMARCH 13TH. Join the creatures of the underworld and descend into the pit of sin that is the Circus of Horrors, a twisted circus performance that has Lucifer himself as the master of ceremonies. This performance of contemporary circus, cutting-edge theatre and wild cabaret celebrates all that is lustful and licentious with a touch of dark humour to lighten the mood. With a gothic cathedral as its unnerving setting, soaring operatic music accompanies stomachflipping trapeze acts, stunning displays of human strength and sensuous dance performances. Torturous-looking contraptions aid performances as the artists bend themselves into inhuman shapes while bondage-esque costumes add to the sinful atmosphere. www. circodeloshorrores.com/Cabaret/en

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BRIGHT LIGHTS

LLUM BCN. CIUTAT VELLA. FEBRUARY 11TH-14TH. In honour of Barcelona’s co-patron saint, February 12th has been declared a local holiday this year to mark the Festes de Santa Eulália. Santa Eulália was a 13-year-old martyr who was sentenced to 13 tortures by the Roman emperor Diocletian, and today she is often referred to as the children’s saint as well as the city’s co-patron. A day of street celebrations and parades is in store, including the La processó de les Laies, a parade of giant statues that begins in Plaça Sant Josep Oriol at 7pm, a correfoc (fire run)—both adult and children’s versions—and musicians and dancers filling every nook and cranny of the Gothic quarter. The visual treats, however, are not limited to one day; Santa Eulalia coincides with the annual four-day festival of illuminations, Llum BCN, which will transform Ciutat Vella into a dazzling beacon of light for its fifth edition. Last year’s celebrations included three different routes around the city—Mar, Catedral and Rambla—and this year promises to be just as dazzling, lighting up many of the city’s most prominent buildings with colour, music and optical illusions. santaeulalia.bcn.cat/llumbcn

FOR MORE EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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STRIKE A POSE

080 BARCELONA FASHION WEEK. CASA LLOTJA DE MAR. FEBRUARY 1ST-5TH. It’s the 17th edition of this biannual event, which brings Catalan designers and budding fashionistas of the city together for a week of style, runways and a sneak peek into what trends are going to be big this autumn/winter. Local designers and up-and-coming brands showcase their latest collections alongside the well-established giants, such as Mango, who boast fashion royalty, models Cara Delevingne and Kate Moss, as the faces of their current collection. Barcelona Fashion Week is the platform from which Catalan designers can launch themselves to international success, following in the footsteps of Custo Dalmau, for example, who will be presenting his collection on the runways of Fashion Weeks around the world shortly after 080. This event will take place in the elegant Casa Llotja de Mar, once the meeting place of 18th-century merchants. With the runway shows also featuring in fashion publications, such as Vogue Espaùa, this is the event a la mode not to miss. www.080barcelonafashion.cat

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THE WINERY DOGS The LA rock group bring their world tour to Barcelona with their new album, Hot Streak.

080 BARCELONA FASHION WEEK Models take to the catwalk with a preview of the autumn/winter collections. Casa Lllotja de Mar. Passeig d’Isabel II. 1st-5th.

PARKWAY DRIVE The Australian band bring their latest album, Ire, to Barcelona as part of their European tour. 9pm.

TONIGHT ALIVE Their third album, Limitless, will be released this March. Ahead of this, they’re rocking the stage with new material. 9pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

1888: JORGE RIBALTA Exhibition exploring the relationship between the city and photography in the modern age. Àngels Barcelona. Pintor Fortuny 27. Until March 11th.

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KATAKLYSM The Canadian death-metal rockers present new material from their latest album, Of Ghosts And Gods (2015). 7pm. Razzmatazz.

Pamplona 88.

OZOM A magic show presenting some of the greatest illusions and tricks of all time. Various times.

Teatre Condal. Paral·lel 91. Until 21st.

BENJAMIN ALARD Bach’s Partitas performed by the musical successor of the great Gustav Leonhardt. 8.30pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 1st & 2nd.

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WEDNESDAY

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TUESDAY

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MONDAY

U.K. SUBS This year marks the 40th anniversary of this legendary punk band. 9pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la

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JOAN MIQUEL OLIVER This Catalan singer performs as part of the Banc Sabadell 17th Mil·leni Festival. 9pm. Sala Apolo.

Nou de la Rambla 113.

OTELLO Giuseppe Verdi’s 1887 operatic take on Shakespeare’s classic tragedy. Various times. Gran Teatre del Liceu. Las Ramblas 51-59. 1st, 4th, 5th, 7th.

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THURSDAY

WOLF ALICE This alternative-indie band from London have recently been nominated for a Grammy. 9.30pm.

Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

EL CONCIERTO DE ARANJUEZ I LA 3ª DE BEETHOVEN Lorenzo Viotti conducts an evening of classical music.

9pm. Teatre-Auditori Sant Cugat.

Plaça de Victòria del Ángels 1.

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SATURDAY

VISIT THE MIRADOR For one day each month, the CCCB allows access to the fifth floor and its stunning view of the city. 11am. CCCB. Montalegre 5.

TRIAL INDOOR BARCELONA Now in its 39th edition, this indoor motorbike event returns for extreme fun. 5pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

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SUNDAY

14 13 12 CLASSIC THE WIZARD OF OZ DÍA DE SANTA IBERIA This show celebrates the A musical that the whole family success of 20th-century Spanish can enjoy in this Catalan adaptamusicians, singers and dancers. tion. 12.30pm. Teatro Poliorama.

EULÀLIA

HUSBANDS AND WIVES A Spanish adaptation of the 1992 comedy-drama written and directed by Woody Allen. 9pm.

Teatre-Auditori Sant Cugat. Plaça de Victòria del Ángels 1.

ELLIE GOULDING The ‘Starry Eyed’ singer comes to Barcelona with her Delirium Tour. 9pm. Sant Jordi Club.

Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

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FRIDAY

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

For more information visit our website

FEBRUARY 2016

WHAT'S ON

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THE WINERY DOGS The LA rock group bring their world tour to Barcelona with their new album, Hot Streak.

7.30pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

PARKWAY DRIVE The Australian band bring their latest album, Ire, to Barcelona as part of their European tour. 9pm.

Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

WOLF ALICE

BRYAN ADAMS The Grammy-award winner brings his Canadian rock to Barcelona. 9.30pm. Palau Sant Jordi.

Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

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DALÍ. MASTER OF METAMORPHOSES An exhibition of Dalí's work, featuring six of his fashion designs.

Mayoral Galería d’Art. Consell de Cent 286. Until February 29th.

CLASSICAL MUSIC AT MEAM Uniting fine art and classical music, this museum visit is followed by an evening concert. 5pm.

MEAM. Barra de Ferro 5.

SIMPLE PLAN The French-Canadian rockers bring their Taking One For The Team tour to town. 8.30pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

WINE TASTING COURSE Improve your wine knowledge with this one-day wine tasting course. 9.30am. Bruc 136. www. winecoursesbcn.com

VICTORS AND VANQUISHED An exhibition exploring the effects of the Spanish Civil War on Catalan culture. Memorial Democràtic Institution. Peu de la Creu 4. Until February 26th.

ROOFTOP TEA Afternoon Tea on a secret rooftop terrace in the centre of Barcelona. 3pm. www.trip4real. com.

¿CUÁL ES MI NOMBRE? Lights, music and imagination at this theatre-dance workshop for kids. 12pm & 5.30pm. Sat! Teatre.

Neopàtria 54.

GÖTTERDÄMMERUNG Wagner’s last of four music dramas, ‘The Twilight of the Gods’, promises to be a powerful performance. 5pm. Gran Teatre del liceu. Las Ramblas 51-59.

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THE GOSPEL VIU CHOIR This choir's motto is ‘gospel without borders’. 7pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

ART STRIKES BACK This is the first exhibition at this gallery, and irony forms a common thread throughout the works. Fundació Gaspar. Montcada 25. Until March 28th.

COLA JET SET The band members are from Barcelona and their music combines folk sound with pop beats. 8pm.

Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113

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ART STRIKES BACK!

PETRUSHKA: MUSIC FOR BALLET Stravinsky's music composed for ballet burlesque is performed with a modern masterpiece by F. Tichelli. 6pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.

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HALF MARATHON The second largest running event in Barcelona, the Mitja Marató de Barcelona. Registration deadline: February 7th.

14th, 21st & 28th.

GUILLEM TELL An adaptation of Rossini’s comedy opera. 12pm. TeatreAuditori Sant Cugat. Plaça de Victòria del Ángels 1.

MARC ALMOND This synthpop singer and musician has sold over 30 million records worldwide. 8pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

lau de la Música 4-6. 13th & 21st.

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GREG DULLI The lead singer from rock band The Afghan Whigs, brings his solo tour to Barcelona. 9pm.

BARTS. Paral·lel 62.

LANG LANG This Chinese pianist brings an evening of Mozart and Beethoven with the Orquesta Sinfónica de Barcelona. 8.30pm. L’Auditori.

Lepant 150.

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THE BIG BET SWING BAND & SAX ATTACK Chino and his band are back for another night of swing. 11pm.

Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

MALANDAIN BALLET BIARRITZ The ballet school that premiered at the Royal Opera of Versailles.

9pm. Teatre-Auditori Sant Cugat.

Plaça de Victòria del Ángels 1.

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MACHINE HEAD Formed in 1991, this American heavy metal band bring their sounds from California to Barcelona. 7pm. Razzmatazz.

Pamplona 88.

14 13 12 CLASSIC THE WIZARD OF OZ DÍA DE SANTA IBERIA This show celebrates the A musical that the whole family success of 20th-century Spanish can enjoy in this Catalan adaptamusicians, singers and dancers. tion. 12.30pm. Teatro Poliorama.

EULÀLIA 8.30pm. Palau de la Música. PaRambla dels Estudis 115. 7th,

MIRA FESTIVAL

BARCELONA GUITAR FESTIVAL A range of guitar styles, come together for this festival. Various times. February 18th-May 3rd.

Plaça Villa de Madrid.

BLACK TULIP An architectural exhibition that allows its artists to adopt an anonymous identity. Arts Santa Mònica. Las Ramblas 7. February 4th- March 10th.

THE VINTAGE CARAVAN This Nordic psychedelic rock band are provocative, young, wild and free. 8pm. Sala Apolo.

Nou de la Rambla 113.

TRIFONOV This young pianist is famous for losing one of his baby teeth during his first concert performance in 1999. 8.30pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

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LA PIEDRA OSCURA A play by Alberto Conejero that tells the life story of Rafael Rodríguez Rapún, a close friend of Federico García Lorca. Plaça de Margarida Xirgu 1. 17th-28th.

PIXELATED WORDS This intriguing exhibition explores the power of words in the digital age. Arts Santa Mònica.

January 28th-March 10th.

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MOZART FOR THE LITTLE ONES Six musicians with various instruments introduce a younger audience to Mozart’s music.

Various times. L’Auditori. Lepant 150. 14th-21st.

ESMUC ENSEMBLE The ESMUC and Sampler Sèries bring you contemporary music with avant-garde influence.

8.30pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.

ELLIE GOULDING

DISNEY ON ICE The magic of Disney is transported onto ice for a spectacular show. Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7. 18th-21st.

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X AMBASSADORS Their debut album, VHS, was released last June and one of their most famous hits is ‘Unconsolable’. 9pm. Sala Bikini.

Diagonal 547.

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CABARET MALDITO The Circus of Horrors returns with their provocative show.

8.30pm. Various times and dates.

Passeig de Joan de Borbó. Until March 13th.

JOHANNES MOSER This critically acclaimed GermanCanadian cellist makes his debut in Barcelona. 8.30pm. L’Auditori.

Lepant 150.

U.K. SUBS This year marks the 40th anniversary of this legendary punk band. 9pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

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ORQUESTRA GULBENKIAN Nikolai Lugansky gives a standout solo performance as part of an evening of music composed

by Saariaho and Stravinsky.

8.30pm. Palau de la Música.

Palau de la Músic 4-6.

JORDI SAVALL

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CULTURE

Fifteen-minute culture fix

La pell a tires

SHORT ATTENTION SPAN? MICROCULTURA IS A NEW CULTURAL CONCEPT IN THE CITY THAT BREAKS PERFORMANCES DOWN INTO bite-sized chunks. TEXT BY TORI SPARKS.

"THE AUDIENCE IS SO CLOSE TO THE PERFORMERS THAT THEY ARE NOT SIMPLY OBSERVING, BUT ACTUALLY LIVING, EXPERIENCING AND DISCOVERING THE SHOW AS IT UNFOLDS." “It took forever to find a venue that fitted our needs—we needed at least four separate spaces where performances could happen simultaneously,” Sagués said. After much searching, they settled on the restaurant Zarko (Comte d'Urgell 280), where they transformed the basement, kitchen and bathrooms into tiny micro-venues. Soon after, they were introduced to Bruno Valls, who is a member of the performance group, Marionetistas Nomadas. He took control of programming the Microcultura shows and expanded the concept further by reaching out to his contacts in the worlds of

puppetry, mime, circus, and performance art.

So, why Microcultura? According to Sagués, the experience is much more intense when compared to a traditional theatre or dance event.

The audience is so close to the performers—the smallest performance space so far measured just ten square metres—that they are not simply observing, but “actually living, experiencing and discovering the show as it unfolds,” explained Sagués. Performances only last 15 minutes, which allows the public to sample many different events in one evening.

Audience members can purchase a ticket to just one micro-show for €3.95, or buy a discounted pack that includes entrance to between two and six shows, a drink and a programme with a list of showtimes. As each performance is repeated up to six times throughout the evening, showgoers can create their own performance itinerary.

Microcultura presented 51 individual shows in 2015. The most successful categories to date are dance and theatre, specifically the shows Puta Hostelería, Cheers, and Twins. All were performances created specifically for Microcultura, and later went on to longer stints in festivals and other venues.

Events for the 2016 season are yet to be announced, as Larrull, Valls, and Sagués will spend the first part of the year focusing on the development of the Microservicios aspect of Microcultura—a concept that won the 2015 CREC Award, a cultural grant funded by local brewers, Moritz. Microservicios are made-toorder private mini-events, where actors put on a show in a company’s office or in a space of their choice, such as a restaurant or bar. “We bring culture to the audience instead of the other way around,” Sagués explained. “We think that it is unique to be able to offer an experience like this to your employees or clients. It is an entertaining, unconventional way of being a force for cultural exchange and discussion in Barcelona. We hope that the idea will really catch on this year.”

Stay tuned for the 2016 season at www. microcultura.es. And, if you have an idea for your own Microcultura performance, you can also pitch it via the website.

WK

Puta hosteleria

Misterio buffo

Photos courtesy of Microcultura.

P

atricia Sagués founded Barcelona Microcultura in the summer of 2012. She was inspired by a dinner conversation with a Madrid-based actress friend who had just launched a project called 'Microteatro'. Excited at the idea of starting a similar organisation in Barcelona, Sagués proposed the idea of putting on shows in a ‘micro’ format to friend and fellow creative entrepreneur, Xavi Larrull. They decided that, rather than just focusing on theatre, they would name the project ‘Microcultura’ and expand its scope to include dance and opera.

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Sweet talk

I

n Barcelona, two things go without saying: this city is constantly evolving and its population has an insatiable sweet tooth. As trends and technology from abroad continue to influence Catalan culture, it is increasingly rare to find shops whose owners have upheld past traditions and still offer the handmade products that have been lovingly crafted for generations. When food is made by hand there is an intangible quality to the finished product; every bite tastes soulful and that little bit better. Come with me as we explore the basements, workshops and warehouses of three local businesses that make one treat that never goes out of style: sweets.

LA COLMENA Even in the face of modernisation and soaring expenses, the Pastisseria La Colmena has stuck to its roots. In Barcelona, there is a dwindling number of shops that still sell ‘old-fashioned’ sweets, and among them, La Colmena is the oldest. Originally called ‘Ca l’Abella’, the shop was founded in 1849, just across the street from where it currently stands in Plaça de l’Àngel. The name change occurred in 1872, and after being sold several times, La Colmena was eventually purchased in 1927 by the current owner’s grandfather, Francesc Roig Manubens. Now, Josep Maria Roig and his son, Toni Roig, run the business in keeping with family tradition. Of all the products they make (of which there are many), the most famous by far are the caramelos—hard-boiled sweets made from natural sugar, flavourings and nothing else. La Colmena is recognised as having the longest continuous tradition of making caramelos in Spain.

Last year, when the city’s decades-old controlled rent agreement for historic businesses expired, La Colmena’s monthly rent soared from €1500 to €7500 more or less overnight. They are in a prime location that many developers are eager to snatch up, but the Roig family isn’t selling. “Many of the businesses affected by this rent increase are still alive because my father and a lawyer filed a legal claim with the city council,” explained Roig, smiling coyly. “Until the legal matter is resolved, these businesses get to stay where they are.” In years past, the shop used to crank out many times the current volume of caramelos. “When I was young,” recalled Roig, a man with at

DISCOVERING THE ARTISANAL PROCESS ALIVE AND WELL IN THE TRADITIONAL SWEET SHOPS OF BARCELONA. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY SAM ZUCKER

The Roig family have been making their signature caramelos since 1927.

least a few decades behind him, “there would be dozens of people working down here.” Our conversation took place in La Colmena’s subterranean pastry kitchen, while Roig churned out batch after batch alongside three pastry chefs in the far corner, dipping endless quantities of biscuits in chocolate and whipping up tray after tray of teetering meringues.

Toni begins the caramelo process with the confidence of a man that could do this in his sleep. He boils down plain sugar, adds the flavour essence (be it natural honey, rosemary extract or any of the dozen flavours they use), then pours the golden amber onto a steel table in a simple square mold. As we talk, he periodically presses the hot sugar with his bare fingers to test the hardness. When it has just set, Roig begins to mark out the caramelos by hand, each measuring two centimetres squared. He uses an ancient, multiblade roller and moves quickly and with steady focus, talking all the while.

Once the squares are formed, he breaks them with gloved hands into an old wire-bottomed basket, shaking the contents to smooth any sharp edges, before dumping them into beat-up tin boxes where they will await their wrapping. “We wrap every single sweet by hand,” Roig told me. “We have been approached by people from Germany asking to import our caramelos, but in our current situation we just can’t increase production.” The ladies upstairs wrap the sweets when the shop is quiet, but there is too much work as it is. “Practically no one makes caramelos like this any more,” he continued, “because it’s just not cost effective.”

PAPABUBBLE Papabubble, a tiny store and workshop housed in a former tin factory along Carrer Ample, is the perfect place to see artisanal candy-making skills in action. Though it was actually founded in 2004, Papabubble has the feel of a place that has been there forever. In the last 12 years, the business has grown from just this one shop in the Gothic neighbourhood, to more than 40 international stores, from Asia and the Middle East to Europe, the USA and Latin America. CEO Alejandro Siniawski explained the Papabubble approach as a “manual process where the soul of the product lies in the candy maker’s hands. It’s a process which involves all five human senses,” he told me.

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In the back of their attractive shop (a former part of the Palau Sessa Larrard, built from 1772–1778 by the architect and designer Josep Rivas I Margarit), veteran candy makers perform the most dangerous step of the entire process, melting down kilogrammes of white sugar in large pots, mixing in the flavouring, then carefully pouring the molten mass onto a large marble workbench, and working it over with spatulas and gloved hands. When a soft, colourful lump is formed, it is ready to be folded, pulled, stretched and rolled into multiple layers to form the signature hard candies for which Papabubble is rightfully renowned.

Any time of day, you can find this little shop full of curious onlookers as the Papabubble team works with deft hands, quickly creating their intricate candy ‘beads’ on a heated table that keeps the sugar pliable enough to be stretched from a massive log into a slender rod no wider than my little finger. This process is all about skill, knowledge and muscle memory, and the long-time candy-makers fly through their work with ease. The second Barcelona location of Papabubble is in Sarrià, where the shop doubles as the ‘Papabubble Academy’, a training centre where employees from around the globe are sent to hone their technique. Though not part of the ‘old business’ club, Papabubble has upheld the artisan standard even while becoming an international sensation and marketing success.

REGALIZ EBRO While Papabubble and La Colmena are widely known in Barcelona (and beyond), it seems that Regaliz Ebro and their little liquorice shop, Tot Pegadolça, located on a tiny street in the top corner of the Born, have flown well under the radar. Owner Xavier Busqué has been making traditional Catalan pegadolça (liquorice, regaliz in Spanish) for over 30 years, bringing the business founded by his grandfather Isidro in the Thirties into the modern era. For nearly a century, Regaliz Ebro has been selling a variety of artisanal liquorice products to wholesale clients, but it wasn’t until two years ago that Busqué got the idea to open up a little retail counter at the entrance to his workshop just off Plaça de Sant Pere. “People started knocking on the door asking about the liquorice, so I wanted a way to offer it directly to [the consumer],” he explained.

Busqué tells me that liquorice like his was first produced in the early 1900s because sugar was expensive, and liquorice root extract was cheaper and contains a powerful natural sweetener. Throughout Europe (notably in England, France and Italy), sweets made from this strong-tasting root quickly gained popularity. It is important to note (especially for my fellow Americans and younger generations, who probably grew up calling sweet, red Twizzlers ‘liquorice’), that eating real, unadulterated pegadolça is like a

Founded in 2004, Papabubble upholds the artisan standard while becoming an international success.

The eye-watering liquorice at Regaliz Ebro is said to be a good cure for the common cold.

smack in the face. The bitter-sweet flavour shocks your tongue and instantly clears your sinuses, leaving most first-time samplers wide-eyed in surprise.

In addition to the traditional flavour, Busqué prepares liquorice candies infused with other botanicals including eucalyptus, violet, mint and anise.

Decades ago, Regaliz Ebro supplied a local school with a huge amount of liquorice barretes—pencil-sized rods of liquorice candy that teachers would commonly hand out to students as a reward for good academic performance. Busqué admits that his traditional liquorice appeals much more to the palate of the older generations, while the younger crowd enjoys the milder, sweeter products like the chewy botons or the candy-coated liquorice nibs, known as gragees.

Beyond his old-fashioned shop with its general store vibe, you enter into a small room stacked high with box after box of liquorice and big, fivekilogramme blocks of pure liquorice root extract, rock-hard and as black as tar. To begin the candy-making process, Busqué uses a steam-heated chamber to melt the blocks of extract. When he opened the melter, an eye-watering, intensely-aromatic cloud literally set me on my heels. I moved in cautiously for a second peek, and this time slowly inhaled the potent liquorice vapors, noting the distinct eucalyptus essence he had added to the batch. Once the extract is melted, it is mixed with sugar for sweetness and starch as a binder. The cooled, pliable amalgame is then passed through a press that extrudes thin, shiny sheets of liquorice candy onto a little conveyer belt. At the end of the belt, different dies set in a roller cut the candy into the desired shape, such as circles, triangles or rods. While most people eat pegadolça as a sweet treat, many swear by this classic, medicinaltasting product throughout the winter as a sure-fire cure to the common cough and congestions.

It goes without saying, but I’ll say it anyway: support local businesses!

Barcelona is slowly, but surely, losing the types of establishments that make it unique, as one antique storefront after another falls to the developer’s wrecking ball, only to be replaced by something generic. The legacy of the city depends on the support of its residents (and the government), so visit these shops for great gifts, timeless treats, cold remedies or a fascinating peek into the past, and to do your part to keep Barcelona’s sweet artisanal traditions alive and well.

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FASHION

in style

WITH THE FRESH WINTER WEATHER THIS MONTH, DIG OUT YOUR THICKEST THREADS AND WOOLLY WARMERS, BEFORE WE HEAD TOWARDS SPRING.

Name: Hyunsik Lee Age: 34 From: South Korea Profession: Architect Shirt: Uniglo Jeans: Top Ten Shoes: Converse

Name: Katrin Age: 21 From: Germany Profession: Student Jumper: Vintage Bag: Asos Shoes: Vagabond

Name: Marta Age: 34 From: Spain Profession: Civil Engineer Jacket: Motel Skirt: American Apparel Jumper: H&M

GET THE LOOK ZARA CAPE €29.99

LEVI’S SHIRT €96 H&M BLACK SKIRT €14.99

MANGO JUMPER €14.99 AMERICAN APPAREL BEANIE €22

VANS €59.95

MANGO SCARF €8.99

AMERICAN APPAREL CARRER D’AVINYÓ 7. ZARA PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA 16. MANGO PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA 36. H&M PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA 9.

VANS CALLE PORTAFERRISSA 28.

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TRAVEL

Life in a bubble

Seventy-five percent of Catalunya’s bubbly is produced in the Penedès region.

SLEEPING Cava & Hotel Mastinell. Vilafranca del Penedés. www.hotelmastinell.com The innovative structure of this award-winning hotel takes its inspiration from the cava bottle form. With 12 exclusive guestrooms overlooking the vineyards or the cellar through unique bubble-like windows, the hotel offers wine tastings and seasonal, market-fresh gastronomy, as well as vinotherapy spa treatments.

Bed & Breakfast Wine and Cooking. Pla del Penedès. bnbwinecooking.com The owners of this charming bed and breakfast help visitors get to know local food and wine through cooking classes and wine tastings. Each room is decorated in soothing neutrals and comes equipped with Apple TV. Can Bonastre. Masquefa. www.canbonastre.com This luxury resort in the heart of wine country offers views of Montserrat and the surrounding vineyards, a well-equipped spa offering both vino- and cavatherapy treatments, and a large wine cellar.

EATING Cèntric Gastro-Bar. Vilafranca del Penedès. www.centricgastrobar.es A good local tapas bar with specialities like croquettes with mushrooms and foie, canalones and smoked sardines on toasted bread.

El Cigró d’Or. Vilafranca del Penedès. www.elcigrodor.com Chef Oriol Llavina continues to surprise and please guests with his take on marketfresh creative cuisine offered by the plate and also as a tasting menu.

Mirador de les Caves. Els Casots. www.calblay.com This restaurant combines countryside food with spectacular views of the surrounding vineyards, and specialises in grilled meats and traditional Catalan cuisine.

Cal Blay Viniticinc. Sant Sadurní d’Anoia. www.calblay.com Located in a Modernista wine cellar, Cal Blay Vinitcinc offers local, seasonal cuisine and an excellent wine list.

Cal Xim. Sant Pau d’Ordal Cal Xim is the place to get hearty, traditional Catalan food at its best, specialising in grilled meats and artichokes.

GOT SOMETHING TO CELEBRATE? DELVE INTO CAVA COUNTRY AND DISCOVER THE SOURCE OF SPAIN’S FAVOURITE SPARKLING WINE. TEXT

BY MELISSA LEIGHTY.

J

ust an hour’s drive south from Barcelona are rolling hills and verdant fields, laced with trellises and the gnarled old vines of some of the best vineyards in the world. With a history that reaches back to Roman times, viticulture in Catalunya is a rich part of the region’s fabric and a worthy discovery for the curious oenophile. While its wines may make their mark, more significant are the region’s cavas, the Catalans’ take on champagne, hailing from the region of Penedès. Not only is this area bursting with cava cellars open to inquisitive visitors but it also offers local gastronomic and cultural highlights, as well as some beautiful landscapes.

While cava is produced in eight different regions throughout Spain, 95 percent of production takes place in Catalunya. The region is home to 10 D.O.s, or Designations of Origin, of which Penedès is the most cava-focused, producing 75 percent of Catalunya’s bubbly.

It is said that cava was introduced into the region in 1872 by Josep Raventós, who produced the first bottles of sparkling wine using the ‘Méthode Champenoise’—otherwise known as the Traditional Method—which he brought back to Spain from his travels through the Champagne region of France.

Cava is Catalan for cave, and refers to the cool dark cellars where cava is fermented. Like its French counterpart, Champagne, cava can be white or rosé and displays seven different levels of sweetness, depending on the amount of added sugar, ranging from sweet and semi-dry, to brut nature, the driest of them all, which has no added sugar. The subtle differences in taste between cava and champagne are determined, in part, by the types of grapes used and the terroir which gives each its own particular flavour profile. In Spain, cava is made from Macabeu, Parellada and Xarel·lo grapes, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha or Monastrell grapes added in to create the

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rosé version. It is a relatively short but labour intensive process, with each bottle hand turned during the fermentation period.

The best way to learn about cava is to head down to cava country and visit a cellar or two, where you can learn how cava is created and enjoy a tasting session. Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, considered the birthplace of cava, is a great place to start. There are a number of excellent cellars there, including the world-renowned Freixenet and Codorníu. While February can be brisk and the vines barren, it is also calçot season, and there is no better place to enjoy this local and wellloved onion than in the countryside restaurants of Penedès. Early spring brings rain, but with it vines covered in an explosion of downy white blossoms, signaling a new start and a new harvest ahead.

If you have time to make a day of it, enjoy the fresh air and the beautiful views on foot by picking up one of the many walking routes or hiking trails through the region. Sant Sadurní d’Anoia offers a network of marked trails with posted distances that take walkers right through the heart of cava country, giving a close-up view of the vines. You can pick up a map at the local tourism office and pick your route according to distance and difficulty. Easier routes can be done on foot, bicycle or even horseback, while the more intensive hiking trails found beyond the valley of Sant Sadurní itself will require a sturdy pair of boots. Bicycles can be rented through certain wine cellars like Codorníu and Bodegas Eudald Massana Noya, or tours can be arranged through independent operators such as Orange Monkey Tours (www.orangemonkeytours.com) or El Moli Tours (www.elmolitours.com). The local tourism website for the region, Enoturisme Penedès (www.enoturismepenedes.cat), is an excellent place to start trip planning and offers a wide variety of experiences, from wine and food pairings to grape stomping, which can be booked directly through the website.

RECOMMENDED CELLAR VISITS Large Cellars

These are the granddaddies of the cava world and offer a great introduction to the origins of the drink, the cava-making process and the history of the region.

Codorníu. Founded: 1551.

The Codorníu cellars are an impressive example of Modernista architecture designed by Josep Puig i Cadafalch at the end of the 19th century. The cellars were declared a National Historic Artistic Monument in 1976, and a visit here involves a memorable train ride through a vast network of underground tunnels, where the cava is stored.

What to try: Anna de Codorníu.

Freixenet. Founded: 1861.

The second largest sparkling wine producer in Spain, Freixenet now has more than 21 wineries across four continents. It remains 100% family owned.

What to try: Elyssia Gran Cuvée, winner of the CINVE 2015 Gold medal.

Boutique Cellars.

Although the bigger houses have the name, the smaller cava cellars can offer a more intimate learning experience for the cava novice. Here are a few boutique cava cellars worth a stop.

Segura Viudas. Founded 1954.

Segura Viudas is committed to keeping its production in harmony with its natural surroundings. They offer themed tours dedicated to the animal and bird life of the vineyards, the use of wild plants for medicinal purposes, and the fish of the Bitlles River.

What to try: Reserva Heredad PN, heralded the Best Spanish Sparkling Wine at the 2015 Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships.

Cavas Nadal. Founded 1510.

The land at Cavas Nadal was once used as an airfield during the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939.) Then owner, Ramon Nadal Giró, decided to reorient production from brandy to sparkling wines after the war and the first bottle of Nadal cava was born in 1943.

What to try: Salvatge Rosé Brut 2012.

Can Ràfols dels Caus. Founded: 1979.

The cellar is carved out of the limestone Garraf Massif and is completely integrated into the landscape. It is built on different levels so that the wines can be decanted by gravity.

What to try: White Cava Gran Reserva.

The Cava & Hotel Mastinell takes its inspiration from the cava bottle form.

Parés Baltà. Founded: 1790.

Parés Baltà is an organic operation using grapes from five estates surrounding the winery. The winemaking itself is in the hands of the wives of owners Joan and Josep Cusiné Carol. Maria Elena Jimenez and Marta Casas are winemakers and oenologists who bring their expertise to this family-run business.

GETTING THERE

Photos courtesy of Hotel Mastinell.

BY CAR: Take the AP-7 to Sant Sadurní d’Anoia (exit 27), where many cava cellars are located.

Just a few minutes beyond Sant Sadurní is Vilafranca del Penedès (exit 28 or 29).

BY TRAIN: From Barcelona Sants or Barcelona Plaça Catalunya, take the Renfe train (Line 4). It is a 45-minute ride to Sant Sadurní, and 50 minutes to Vilafranca del Penedès.

BY BUS: Codorníu offers a new bus service that runs between Barcelona and the cellars, leaving at 9am with five return trips running between 1.40pm and 7.30pm.

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

CÉLERI

MORE INFO. Passatge de Marimon 5 www.tribuwoki.com/en/restaurante/celeri Tel. 93 252 9594 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-Midnight Price per person (including wine) €50 ✪✪✪

CHEF XAVIER PELLICER PUTS SEASONAL CATALAN VEGETABLES CENTRE STAGE. BY SAM ZUCKER.

X

avier Pellicer, the iconic former chef of Michelinstarred Can Fabes and ABaC, and the man behind the popular, paella-centric Barraca restaurant in the Barceloneta, has recently ventured into the realm of ‘healthy cooking’. His newest restaurant, Céleri, is tucked away in the basement of the Woki Organic Market along the quiet Passatge Marimón, just above Diagonal. Those familiar with the Woki Market concept know that it is part gourmet shop, part casual eatery, with a wide array of foods available, from sandwiches and soups to Asian stir-frys. Upon entering the Passatge Marimón location, head downstairs to the more upscale Céleri, with its minimalist tables, dramatic lighting, glossy black accents, open kitchen and textured walls of exposed brick.

Chef Pellicer himself greeted us at the host’s stand just moments after we arrived, an auspicious sign that this isn’t just another popular restaurant with an absentee celebrity chef at its helm. We were seated quickly, and though the service was efficient and the server knowledgeable, the entire evening felt a bit rushed. Everything from the explanation of the specials to the presentation of the subsequent procession of vegetablecentric dishes was done in an almost breathless fashion. Our waiter, back waiters, cooks and Chef Pellicer all took turns delivering food to our table, quickly announcing the dish before hurrying back to the kitchen.

The wine list at Céleri has a decent variety of mostly organic wines, with bottles starting at €16. Our waiter wisely recommended the Blanc de Costador 2014 from Tarragona, an unusual blend of Marsanne, Roussanne and Grenache blanc grapes that was pleasantly surprising.

Slightly creamy and not overly acidic, this medium-bodied Catalan white paired excellently with the variety of our dishes and cost around €24.

The structure of the menu at Céleri is what initially piqued my interest in what I might have otherwise considered to be just another trendy restaurant. Atypical of most menus, the star of nearly every plate here is not the protein, but one of the many seasonal vegetables found in the markets of Barcelona. Each vegetable is lovingly prepared in three distinct ways—one vegan, one vegetarian (usually alongside eggs or dairy) and one with either meat or fish. While in many cases the three varieties were quite similar with just some minor additions, I admire the dedication to pleasing the palate of a non-meat eater.

The meal began with a small plate of light, crispy Indian poppadoms, followed by a couple of artfully plated starters. The hummus at Céleri is made with lentils, garnished with sesame seeds and pomegranate, and served with tasty Sardinian flat bread. Though the texture and

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✪ NOT WORTH THE TRIP

✪✪ COULD IMPROVE

presentation of the hummus were both excellent, the expected tahini flavour wasn’t really present. Maybe that was a conscious choice, but I was left feeling that the hummus could have used another dimension, or maybe just a little more richness from a good glug of olive oil. The other starter we ordered turned out to be one of my favourite dishes of the evening—a fascinating plate of roasted cabbage wedges served cold with pickled radishes, tender onions, edible flowers, green onion oil, mustard oil, and a sprinkling of dust made by pulverising the crispy outer leaves of the cabbage. I enjoyed this dish not only for the solid technique on display, but also for the honest preservation of the flavour and texture of the cabbage itself. The pickles added a pleasant acidity and sweetness and the few drops of mustard oil were reminiscent of a subtle wasabi.

Eaten in one bite, this was the most delightful mouthful of the night.

After the starters, several main dishes arrived in a random order, including vibrant roasted pumpkin with spicy wild arugula, couscous with tiny bits of cauliflower, pickled onions and delicious sugared pine nuts, creamy potato ‘macaria’ with green beans, chanterelle mushrooms and meatballs, and sweet potato gnocchi with a table-side pour of pork jus, a dusting of crispy, minced pig’s feet, and a parmesan tuille. Of all the mains, the patatas macaria con judias tiernas, setas y albondiguillas was my favourite (though I think that the meatballs were the least interesting part of the dish and would have happily foregone them). The couscous was a light, refreshing dish with great seasoning that did appear to fall into the ‘healthy’ category, though such designations were starting to seem more like buzzwords than true descriptors as we moved through the meal. There were a few meat-centric dishes that I would be excited to try on a subsequent visit (namely the tandoor-spiced pork ribs with quince and confit shallots, and the confit organic chicken thigh with ganxet beans, cod tripe, wild spinach and mushrooms).

As is common when dining out on the upper end of the casual spectrum, the food often risks being underwhelming or over-hyped, and I’d say that, for the most part, Céleri avoided these pitfalls. One recommendation I would offer however, would be to price all the dishes the same (the vegan and vegetarian dishes cost less and are for the most part quite simple) and add extra elements to the vegetable-only plates, making them truly special. I often find that at this price range it’s easy to be disappointed, so be aware that this isn’t a restaurant where you go to dine on a budget. The plates are small and there are many to choose from, so I would recommend shelling out a little extra money, ordering a few extra dishes, and leaving with a full belly and a full understanding of this Catalan fine-dining veteran’s latest vision.

✪✪✪ GOOD

✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD

✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED

1/26/16 11:52 AM

Recipe CASSOLETA DE CARXOFES AMB MUSCLOS Aesthetically, it’s beautiful. The Ancient Greeks and Romans considered it a delicacy and an aphrodisiac. It’s versatile; it can be eaten raw, baked, grilled, boiled, steamed or fried. It’s healthy; it has the highest known antioxidant capacity in the plant world, helping digestion and reducing cholesterol levels. But for the uninitiated, this seasonal, multi-leafed bauble-shaped vegetable can be mind-boggling—where do you start? This artichoke stew with mussels is a good, hearty plate for the beginner.

Season: Winter/spring Difficulty: Easy Preparation time: 40 minutes INGREDIENTS 6 artichokes 3 medium potatoes 1 onion 4 garlic cloves

1 kg mussels 1 glass white wine Fresh parsley Oil, salt and pepper

METHOD 1. Clean the mussels. Put them in a saucepan over a mediumhigh heat, and add a glass of dry white wine and a glass of water. Cover and let it boil for about three minutes, until the mussels open. Turn off the heat and leave them to cool.

Reserve the stock and remove the mussels from their shells.

2. Peel and chop the onion. Heat a little oil in a pan and add the onion. When the onion begins to change colour, add the garlic cloves, finely chopped, and a pinch of salt.

3. Prepare the artichokes. Remove the tough leaves, trim the ends so that only the light-coloured part remains and split them into four pieces. Put them in a bowl with water and lemon to prevent them from turning black.

4. When the onion is soft, drain the artichokes and add them to the pan.

5. Peel and dice the potatoes and season with salt and pepper.

Add to the pan and let everything cook for five minutes.

6. Add a glass of white wine and bring to the boil. Pour in the mussel stock and cook until the artichokes and potatoes are al dente, approximately 10 minutes.

7. Add the mussels and a handful of parsley. Turn off the heat and stand for a couple of minutes. Serve hot. If it is a little dry, add more mussel stock.

CHEF’S TIPS • The recipe can also be made with squid, cuttlefish, shrimp, clams or cod.

• Five minutes before turning off the heat, you can add a mortar picada for extra flavour. This is a garlic paste made in the pestle and mortar: Crush four cloves of garlic and a pinch of salt. Add a dozen almonds and a piece of toasted bread. Mix together to form a paste. Add a few tablespoons of sauce from the stew and mix.

• Boil up the leftover artichoke leaves to make stock, which acts as an excellent cleanser. Let it cool and make a healthy iced artichoke tea.

Visit www.ambdosfogons.com for more traditional Catalan recipes.

Toni Rocamora is the head chef of a big family and lover of all gastronomy-related sports, such as snail hunting, mushroom hunting and market shopping. Toni was born in Oliana, a small town in the foothills of the Pyrenees, and inherited his passion for cooking from his mother, famous for her traditional family recipes.

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QUICK BITES

MAISON PUYVALIN BRINGING A LITTLE FRENCH VILLAGE CHARM TO DOWNTOWN BARCELONA. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY SAM ZUCKER.

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f you live in Barcelona and have never been to Toulouse, do yourself a favour and add this nearby French neighbour to the top of your weekend travel list for 2016. My first experience with the ‘Capital of Cassoulet’ was this winter, and I fell instantly in love with the food-loving culture of this lively city in the Midi-Pyrénées region.

Though Toulouse is only a four-hour drive north of Barcelona, I now have a far easier local alternative when I’m yearning to fulfill my cravings for rich foie gras with rustic jams, stinky cheeses, and crusty French bread— Maison Puyvalin. This little shop, selling all things French and only items of pristine quality, quietly opened its doors on Carrer de Trafalgar in May 2015.

Vincent Thouvenin, who runs Maison Puyvalin along with his girlfriend, Marion Puyobro, hails from Toulouse, where he earned a master’s degree in Wine before moving to Barcelona three years ago. Thouvenin’s goal was to bring the incredible products of a typical French village to the Barcelona table,

Tastings

and though you can easily find French goods throughout the city, nowhere else in town (or the world, for that matter) will you find this particular selection of artisanal products. “We are importing from many producers who have never before sold outside of their local village markets,” Thouvenin explained with excitement.

“We don’t stock any products that you would find in the ‘typical’ supermarket in France.”

I adore the foie gras, cassoulet (a traditional bean, pork, and duck casserole from the French Pyrenees similar to an Asturian fabada), powerful Rhône Valley Syrah, and elegant Alsacian Riesling, but my true guilty pleasure from across the border has always been le fromage.

Thouvenin buys only Protected Designation of Origin cheeses (similar to the Spanish Denominación de Origen), mainly from purveyors in Paris. The pungent offering in his prominent display case changes frequently and nearly all regions of France are represented, from the Rhône-Alps with its oozy, raw cow’s milk cheese Saint-Marcellin (my favourite), to the ash-laden, Burgundian Morbier and the rich, luscious, and creamy Camembert of Normandy.

Depending on the day, you may have your pick of up to 30 cheeses, ranging greatly in style and waiting eagerly to be spread on the fresh, crusty baguettes that Thouvenin bakes daily inhouse (he buys uncooked bread and croissant dough from artisan bakers in Perpignan). Along with the cheese, multiple saucissons (dry-cured sausages) are typically on display, imported from the famous charcuterie region of L’Aubrac.

The cheese and charcuterie case isn’t the only impressive feature of Maison Puyvlain— they also boast wines from every major French region (and cider from Brittany), with bottles ranging from €5 to €160. A huge and dizzying variety of foie gras terrines, pâtés and whole lobes

in Sauterne, line the shop walls, along with ready-to-eat cassoulet in large glass jars, Provençal oils, fancy chocolates, myriad fruit preserves, purées, spreads, and more.

Twice a month, Thouvenin and Puyobro organise public tasting events that typically cost around €7 and include a glass of wine of your choice, plus an assortment of French tapas, charcuterie, and cheeses (check their Facebook page or sign up to their newsletter for details).

They sell prepared cheese boards in two sizes and will even host private wine and cheese tastings right in the store, upon request. I can’t pass this place without stopping in to buy a cheese or two, and although my refrigerator has now developed a perpetual, goaty stench, I have no regrets.

MORE INFO. Trafalgar 23 Tel. 93 010 5914 www.maisonpuyvalin.com Mon-Sat 10.30am-9pm

Miquel Hudin is a sommelier originally from California but now based in Barcelona. He founded the Vinologue series of wine books (www.vinologue.com).

WINE AND CHOCOLATE From its Roman origins, to Chaucer’s 18th-century England, to the modern-day commercialised affair, St. Valentine’s Day is a celebration of love in many countries around the world that invariably comes accompanied by dinner, wine and for some reason, chocolate.

Chocolate is one of those things that pairs badly with most wines.

Sure, you can go with the Friends adage of ‘Custard, good, beef good, what’s the problem?’, but if you’ve tried pairing it in the past, you’ve probably found that chocolate and white or red wine get pretty scratchy with one another. There are, however, some quite excellent alternatives, although they are probably not the first wines you would think of, despite being traditional in Catalunya.

NV Vinyes dels Aspres - Vi de Panses NV This is a dessert wine from Empordà. Yes, it’s sweet, but let me emphasise that it’s extremely elegant, vinified using dried grapes with no alcohol added via the mutage process that the French use in the

production of Vin Doux Naturel. Made from 100 percent Grenache, it carries balanced sugar as well as acidity and is wonderful with very dark chocolate. Almond and hazelnut aromas lend a nuttiness to the wine, which, combined with light floral notes, make for one delicious bottle. €20 Arrels del Priorat - Arrels 30 Anys This is a traditional, oxidised wine from southern Catalunya called, vi ranci. Meaning ’rancid wine’, the name sounds horrible in English, but the wines of this style are more akin to a Catalan cognac than anything else. This particular wine, the product of a collaboration between René Barbier of Clos Mogador and Jaume Balaguer of Gratallops, is best paired with lighter chocolates. Also made with 100 percent Grenache, it has apricot, fig, and quince aromas. The hit of acidity at the front of the palate gives way to untold depth, as well as notes of toasted almonds and walnuts. €30

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12/16/15 2:09 PM

NEFW &D

FOOD DRINK

& IN

Bar D9 BAR 4 POBLENOU Whether you are an Erasmus student, a football fanatic or a music lover, D9 Bar has at least one night a week for you.

Fully equipped with a terrace, D9 offers a wide range of tapas, beers, cocktails and shots for every night of the week.

American Day on Wednesdays, Erasmus Parties on Thursdays, and music themed parties on Friday and Saturday. There is always something for everyone.

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

under 20 | 20-30 | 30-40 | over 40  food&drink visit our online directory

Pallars 122, 08016 Tel. 93 309 9202 I www.denou.bar Open Sun-Thurs 6pm-2.30am Fri-Sat 6pm-3am

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking Mexican MALPASO4EIXAMPLE

FONDA ESPAÑA4 BARRI GÒTIC

This recently opened restaurant offers traditional Mexican cuisine.

For starters, don’t miss the excellent house nachos, served with cheese, pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream, or ‘Vuelve la Vida’, a seafood ceviche with avocado, tomato and lime. Star main dishes include the Arrachera, a grilled US prime hanger steak served with baked vegetables, and the Atún Moctezuma, pan-seared tuna battered in Mexican spices, served with pico de gallo, avocado and mint sauce. Mexican brunch is available at the weekend.

Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room that was originally designed and decorated

by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements.

Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that is a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins.

Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat, from 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun, from 1pm-4pm, Closed Sun evening.

Girona 59, 08009 Tel. 93 461 3060 Mon-Thur 8am-12am Fri-Sat 8am-3pm, Sun 9.30am-12am

Ice Cream MANNA GELATS 4 BARRI GÒTIC

BLACKLAB BREWERY4 BARCELONETA

Homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico.

Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the best products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with market-bought products, boasting exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalized attention.

The newly opened BlackLab Brewery offers customers a new experience in Barcelona––a place where you can come with friends and family, and enjoy a unique pint of craft beer, made just two metres from where you’re sitting.

BlackLab’s food is a culinary journey from China all the way to New York. You’ll find dumplings and bahn mi, mussels fresh from the fish market, ramen, cheesecake, portobello mushrooms, and more.

New 1 hour beer tour every Sunday at 5pm. Tastings 4 beers for €12. Quote Metropolitan to receive a free Blacklab bag.

Ban ys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312

Indian / Tandoori

NEW BEER TOUR

Palau de Mar, Plaça Pau Vila 1, 08039 Tel. 93 22 18 360 hola@blacklab.es www.blacklab.es

Bagel SURYA 4EIXAMPLE

BE MY BAGEL 4GRÀCIA

Surya Barcelona is an Indian restaurant that invites you to travel all the way to the streets of Mumbai, rich with colour, smell and exotic flavors. They offer a cosy and relaxed place where you feel at home, where you can drink, read a magazine, connect to the Internet, work and try out some of their delicious dishes.

Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them.

They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed.

After dinner you can relax with cocktails and enjoy their in-house DJs from “The House Party” collective with “Deep Fridays” and Saturday night Funky new disco.

Pau Claris 92 | Consell de Cent 236, 08011 Tel. 93 667 8760 www.suryabarcelona.com

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) Metro Fontana and Gràcia Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm

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Bistronomia

Mediterranean MALGAM 4 EIXAMPLE

FULLA D’OSTRA 4 EIXAMPLE

Malgam is located in one of the busiest areas of Barcelona, and offers a varied selection of food, from signature tapas, to traditional, Mediterranean-inspired dishes, all made using seasonal produce.

The contemporary-style restaurant is divided into three different spaces, adapting to the different needs that result from its long business hours, covering early breakfasts, lunch, a la carte dinners, and a cocktail bar with a DJ on weekends.

Bistronomia Fulla d’Ostra is a restaurant neighbouring the Mercat Galvany. Our Chilean chef, Marcelo Gonzalez, prepares delicious gourmet dishes made with fresh products. The exclusive decorator, Lazaro Rosa Violan, has transformed this small bistro into a charming place, and with the capacity for just eighteen guests, it is both intimate and romantic.

Amigó 39, 08021 Tel. 93 200 8393 hola@fulladotra.com www.fulladostra.com

Aribau 113, 08036 Tel. 93 452 3673 Every day 8am-3pm

GOVINDA (VEGETARIAN)4BARRI GÒTIC

TAP DE SURO 4 EIXAMPLE

Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation in vegetarian Indian cuisine.

The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, nonalcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus.

Tap de Suro is an intimate place dedicated entirely to the world of wine.

Here you can experience delicious Mediterranean meals accompanied with their authentic wine collection. They offer a diverse menu of Catalan wines and cavas, ranging from local Spanish grapes to the best international wines.

They also provide a sales service in which they can advise you in finding the perfect flavour for every occasion.

Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 www.govinda.es | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm

AMALTEA4EIXAMPLE

A warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings.

The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Menu of the day 10.70, night and weekend menu 15.50.

Mallorca 202, 08008 Tel. 93 461 4853 info@tapdesuro.com

Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | www.restauranteamaltea.com Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm, Closed Sun

Bar JAMÓN EXPERIENCE 4 BARRI GÒTIC Come and discover everything you’ve ever wanted to know about jamón ibérico. Enjoy an engaging interactive experience with an audiovisual tour in 8 languages that culminates with a tasting of 6 different kinds of jamones (reserve, ibérico, Guijuelo, Extremadura, Valle de los Pedroches and Huelva) hand cut by a master slicer and paired with a glass of cava, wine or beer. A unique experience you’ll treasure forever!

Opens every day from 11.30am to 8pm.

Rambla de les Flors 88-94 (in front of Mercat Boquería) Tel. 93 002 8474 www.jamonexperience.com

LOIDI RESTAURANT4 EIXAMPLE

KAIZEN AFTERWORK4POBLE NOU Do you work close to 22@ and feel like relaxing after work? Come to Kaizen Afterwork and enjoy premium cocktails and tasty snacks.

Great vibe and great music. Bring this ad and get 15% off a gin and tonic.

Castella 1 Tel. 93 676 0761 / 636 092 221 facebook.com/kaizenafterwork | info@kaizenafterwork.com

Vegetarian/Vegan ZAATAR (VEGETARIAN)4EIXAMPLE Experience delicious, creative vegan and vegetarian dining with the finest, fresh organic ingredients. Zaatar innovates with locally sourced fusion cuisine. The imaginative and healthy menu is complemented by freshly squeezed juices. They are truly passionate about food while maintaining focus on sustainability and conscious living. Lunch menu under €10.

Paris 200 | Metro Diagonal | Tel. 654 926 601 | Mon-Sat 12pm-12am

Loidi is a contemporary bistro, in which Martin Berasategui makes his cuisine accessible to everybody. Cuisine prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients and presented with imagination that recalls and pays homage to the celebrated Basque chef’s traditional roots and origins. The menu features various dining options with dishes that change on a weekly basis.

The restaurant is a very contemporary, warm and comfortable space frequented by a local and professional clientele.

Head chef: Jordi Asensio. Maitre d’: Oscar Fernández.

HAPPY DAY VEGETARIANO 4EIXAMPLE Located in the centre of town, this vegetarian-vegan restaurant, Happy Day Vegetariano, offers a variety of fresh salads, soups and dishes. And there is a large assortment of fresh home-baked cakes to choose from, including carrot, pear and orange, and carob. These vegetarian and vegan cakes are produced using brown sugar and organic wholemeal flour. At Happy Day Vegetariano, they believe that if you take care of your health and eat the right food, your well-being and mood will improve. Come to the Happy Day and make the animals, yourself and the world happier!

Mallorca 248-250, 08008 Tel. 93 492 9292 Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm, 8pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-3.30pm, Closed Sun evening.

Pau Claris 143 (Between Valencia and Aragon) Tel. 93 171 7081 www.happydayvegetariano.com/en

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HEALTH &BEAUTY

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Doctor for Adults

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults.

A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Also a member of IAMAT.

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Doctors Barcelona - DOCTOR Is the top medical group in Barcelona.

They are committed to provide a first-rate level of care and attention.

They are experienced, trained and equipped to diagnose and treat most acute or chronic medical problems and injuries. Available 24 hours including weekends and holidays. A 30 minutes arrival time to your destination is guaranteed. Their convenient visit fee is refundable by most insurance companies. All Specialists and best Hospitals available.

M. 689 327 144 info@doctorsbarcelona.com www.doctorsbarcelona.com

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

Dr Bassas - DErMATology The Javier Bassas Dermatology Centre is a well-renowned dermatology and surgical centre equipped with the latest technologies. The medical team, led by Dr. Javier Bassas Bresca, consists of Surgical Dermatology and Venereology specialists with vast clinical and surgical experience.Their goal is to provide specialised, rigorous, efficient and accessible care in Surgical Dermatology and Venereology, with the highest quality and ethical standards.

Diagnosing and treating skin diseases is their priority, as well as offering the latest advances in dermoaesthetics.

Consulta Balmes 24 1º1 T. 93 412 6602.

Teknon, Marquesa de Vilallonga nº 12. Consulta nº 34 1ª 08017 T. 93 290 6434

Dr Rajaram Govindarajan M.D. - DOCTOR Dr govindarajan believes that if you are not happy, you cannot be healthy.

He offers the Ayurveda Diet and Mind-Body Integrative Therapy to help with a vast range of health problems including: psychosomatic diseases (cardiovascular, migraine), digestive problems (acid reflux, ulcers, bloating), obesity and addictions (smoking, alcohol), complimentary therapies to strengthen the immune system for cancer patients as well as coaching and meditation for happy living and personal growth. Private insurance accepted.

Pelayo 12, Principal M M. 666 763 348 50773rjk@comb.cat www.menteycuerpo.org

ServiDigest - HEALTH ServiDigest has more than 40 years experience working for your health and are pioneers in colorectal cancer prevention. Nowadays, colorectal cancer is one of the most common cancers and the prevention is the best treatment. The cure for colorectal cancer depends on preventative measures and its early diagnosis.

Detecting symptoms at earlier stages is the key to a good outcome. However, if it is discovered at an advanced stage, it has a five-year survival rate. They have two important digestive screening programmes: the Colorectal Prevention Programme and the Digestive Cancer Prevention Programme.

ServiDigest. Thinking of people. Fostering prevention.

Medical and Surgical Center ServiDigest

Balmes 334, 08006 T. 93 415 3464/93 545 0990 uad@servidigest.com www.servidigest.com

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Dr. J. E Batista - UROLOGIST Dr. Jose E Batista is a specialist in Urology who trained in the UK and the USA. Together with his team (Uroclinica Barcelona) he covers all the fields of Urology, with special interest in prostatic diseases, laser surgery, bed wetting (enuresis) and urinary incontinence. The team has worked at Centro Médico Teknon since 1996 and also includes specialists in pediatric urology and English speaking physiotherapists for pelvic floor disorders.

Vilana 12, Office 24, Consult. Marquesa, C M Teknon T. 93 390 6940 Valencia 247, Barcelona Central Office.

T. 93 390 671 info.urologia@gmail.com www.teknon.es/web/batista

1/25/16 2:37 PM

Born Chiropractic - CHIROPRACTOR

Cognitive Hypnotherapist & Coach - THERAPIST

oliver Dawson is a specialist in Chiropractic and Applied Kinesiology who focuses on the direct relationship between spinal structures and health.

The spine is a gateway to better health, and by liberating the nervous system from obstruction we function better on all levels. The result is a freer body, less pain and more vitality. let Born Quiropractic turn your power on! Call today and be sure to check the radio interview on their website.

Jessica Boston is a certified Cognitive Hypnotherapist based in the centre of Barcelona. In a nutshell, Cognitive Hypnotherapy works by redefining your unconscious perspective and guiding you towards what you really want, quickly and permanently. get in touch today for your complimentary consultation and to find out how it could change any aspect of your life, because nothing has to be the way it’s always been.

FREE HEALTH TALK

Sombrerers 27, Principal T. 93 268 3070 M. 622 772 623 oliver@bornquiro.com www.bornquiro.com

M. 660 514 795 Metro: Diagonal/Provenca hello@jessicaboston.com www.jessicaboston.com

FREE CONSULTATION

Hestia - PSyCHoTHErAPy

Matt Green - PErSoNAl TrAINEr AND NUTrITIoNIST

Hestía International Psychotherapy Centre has become a reference in the city, due to its’ high quality multidisciplinary and multilingual profile.Their professional team works with individuals, couples and families through a variety of services and approaches to therapy and personal development. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, german, Portuguese, greek, Polish, Swedish, russian and Catalan.

The first consultation is free.

Achieve your lifestyle goals with Matt green’s personal training and nutrition classes. Build and tone muscle, improve core strength and lose weight. H.I.T, functional and core training, nutrition and healthy cooking advice.

Plus new private gym facilities.

FREE TRIAL

Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST The pharmacy is open 365 days a year + home delivery service.The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need.

They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics.

Diagonal 343, 2º 3ª Metro: Verdaguer (L5) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

NEST - NETWorK oF ENglISH SPEAKINg THErAPISTS

NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS

The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, german, Italian and greek.

For detailed information, please visit their website. www.barcelonaNEST.com

Av. Diagonal 478, T. 93 416 1270 www.farmaciaserra.com Open 9am-10pm

English Doctor Dr. Steven Joseph - Doctor General Practice Mental Health MB, MRCGP, MRCPsych.

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR Established in 2005, googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care with access to all medical specialties and tests.

Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro Les Corts Mon-Sat M. 662 291 191 www.englishdoctorbarcelona.com

IAN GIBBS - LIFE COACH

FREE CONSULTATION

If you’re feeling a bit dissatisfied with your life, then maybe you should try talking to a life coach.

Ian can help you regain control, balance and confidence to get you back on track to success and happiness. you’ve nothing to lose except your current dissatisfaction. Call now to arrange a free 1 hour consultation M. 605 801 802 ian.coaching@gmail.com www.iangibbs.es

Wapa’m - HAIRDRESSER

Living Mindfully - MINDFUlNESS CoUrSES

Wapa’m is a salon that offers hairdressing and spa services, using Aveda products with organic ingredients. It is different and unique, designed to create a complete health and well-being experience: look good, feel good. A team of stylists, colour specialists and beauty therapists make your visit unforgettable, connecting personality with style as well as a comprehensive and unique wellness concept.

Do you want to improve your mood, have better relationships, focus, decrease stress and anxiety and find long term peace of mind? learn Mindfulness in central Barcelona. Taught by an English psychotherapist and Mindfulness teacher in the MBSr format.

Girona 152 Metro: L5 L4 T. 93 459 2559 www.wapam.es

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Avenida Josep Tarradellas 101, 08029 M. 667 349 680 matt@chef-fitness.com

info@livingmindfully.es www.livingmindfully.es

20% DISCOUNT

Pilates Las Ramblas - PILATES Doina, a UK trained and qualified Physiotherapist offers both physiotherapy sessions treating musculoskeletal ailments and classes in Therapeutic and Wellness Pilates to maintain strength and flexibility for wellbeing and injury prevention.Doina has recently added Nordic Walking to her repertoire. Adding a cardiovascular element; Nordic Walking takes Pilates outside!

M. 610 712 947 doina@pilateslasramblas.com www.pilateslasramblas.com

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Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic DENTIST Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona and Terrassa provides excellent oral care in an Englishspeaking environment. Dr Nancy Pancko, an American dentist trained at Columbia University in New york, is an American Board-certified orthodontist.

Dr Javier Sanz is an American Boardcertified periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university.

Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care

New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, a team consisting of their first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 35 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, german, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

NEW ADDRESS Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Metro: L-5 Salida Rocafort/Rosselló Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

Platinum Provider

Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 T. 93 246 9043 Metro: Clot (L1, L2) www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm

Orthoestetic - DENTIST

Dr. Boj - DENTIST

The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their dentists experience allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients.

Dr. Holguin is a specialist in orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults, and dental aesthetics. She is certified by the Invisalign system.

Dr. Boj and his team offer specialised, comprehensive pediatric dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. laser dentistry and invisible orthodontics are available.

Dr. Boj also lectures about all treatments related to these age groups. He studied at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of rochester, Ny, USA. Fast and friendly service in an Englishspeaking, international environment.

Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 Metro: Verdaguer (L4 ,L5) www.orthoestetic.es www.ortoesteticbcn.es info@orthoestetic.es

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

Clínica Ed·dent - DENTIST

Dr. Alistair Gallagher DENTIST

This husband and wife dentist team from the Gothic Quarter have an important announcement to make to all English-speaking residents with toothaches. laws in Spain are different for dentists, meaning you need to be careful when choosing a practice.

Visit their Facebook page and read their advice; “3 Things you Have To Know Before going to The Dentist in Spain”. Alternatively, visit them at their centrally-located clinic where they can offer you help with whatever dental problems you have.

Dental Clinic Gótico

FREE REJUVENATING ROSEHIP MASK

Diagonal 281 Metro: Sagrada Família (L5) Monumental (L2) T. 93 265 8070 M. 607 332 335 info@thebritishdentalclinic.com www.thebritishdentalclinic.com

Ample 22, Metro: Barceloneta, Drassanes T. 93 007 5616 M. 651 155 320 Facebook.com/eddentclinicadental

Heaven - MASSAgE

The Vital Touch - MASSAgE What is Japanese Facelifting Massage? Japanese facelifting Massage uses a sequence of massage techniques which act as a natural face lift with no need for surgery, helping make you look and feel younger. This combination of techniques helps improve the complexion, remove toxins from the face, prevent & remove facial wrinkles, reduce & release any muscle tension in the face and jaw.

Face lift Massage is to help prolong natural, true health & beauty, and to prevent disease. Makes you feel fantastic. Special discounted packs!

M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com

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The British Dental Clinic has a patientfriendly philosophy that combines aesthetics, youthful appearances, and a commitment to total oral health.

Conveniently located in Barcelona, they offer orthodontics including Fast Braces and Inman Aligner, implants, cosmetic dentistry, whitening and general family dentistry. Their talented, conscientious and friendly staff will help ensure that you comfortably receive the healthy and beautiful smile that you deserve.

• ready to feel fantastic for spring?

• Time to say ‘Adiós’ to muscular tension and stress?

• Interested in organic, 100% fresh, products based on Ayurveda, Chinese medicine, and European herbal ‘pharmacy’?

Let American-trained massage therapist Carrie lewis draw on 15 years of experience and training to soothe you with deep therapeutic massage in conveniently located studios or in your home!

FREE REFLEXOLOGY TREATMENT WITH ORGANIC PRODUCTS

M. 639 533 523 carrielewisbcn@gmail.com facebook.com/heavenbarcelona www.HeavenlyEco-Boutique.com

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BUSINESS SERVICES

GOBAI Group is a property project management firm specialising in technical projects and the legalisation of activities and facilities in and around Barcelona. They are experts in sourcing commercial premises and coordinating renovation work and licensing with the local authorities. They provide clients with local knowledge and expertise.

M. 615 345 627 info@gobaigroup.com www.gobaigroup.com

Javiertranslates - TRANSLATOR

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Sánchez Molina LEGAL PRACTICE The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French.

They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Translation services in various languages made by freelance translators according to your needs.

Professionalism and confidentiality guaranteed. Don’t let the language get in the way between your company and the Spanish/Catalan market.

M. 637 704 550 info@javiertranslates.com www.javiertranslates.com Open 8am-7pm

Fuente Fradera - LAwyERS Based in Barcelona, Fuente Fradera Lawyers is a rapidly growing law firm which covers areas of law including: real estate, commercial law and labour law. Their services are available for businesses, entrepreneurs and private consultations. As legal advisers, they offer a highly efficient, quality service which generates valuable customer confidence in their work. They speak English, French, German and Russian.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

Gran Vía Corts Catalanes T. 93 317 5219 joseramon@fuentefradera.com www.fuentefradera.com

Spain Accounting-

BCN Seguros - INSURANCE

TAX & BUSINESS SERVICES Qualified UK accountant with 30 years experience in Spain offers: • tax services for freelance “autónomos” and small SLs • income tax returns for employees and non-residents • practical advice on setting up a business in Spain • registration of “autónomos” and company incorporation (SL) • personalised advice on your tax obligations in Spain • fast, reliable email service

Local Barcelona Insurance Agency providing complete personal and business insurance services. (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.) we offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical!

Advice given in Spanish, English and German.

Contact David Cook on M.678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com

M. 636 465 010 rainerhobrack@gmail.com www.bcnseguros.es

ZEST Architecture -

Mac in Barcelona -

ENGLISH SPEAKING ARCHITECTS ZEST is a team of English, Dutch and Catalan architects, specialized in the design and building of high quality homes and offices. Their elegant, innovative house designs are widely published. ZEST takes care of everything from start to finish: - House plans and specifications, - Building licenses - Overseeing building work and budget - Turnkey projects possible Call now for a FREE consultation T. 93 218 6622 www.zestarchitecture.com

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GOBAI Group - PROPERTy SOLUTIONS

COMPUTERS Stéphane Clément is an Apple technician and consultant with over fifteen years of experience.

Anna Piqué, a native from Barcelona, assists Stéphane with her business and communication background.

Their focus is on providing good service and installations with clear communicative skills and personal advice. The aim is to solve your computer troubles and teach you how to improve your daily use of your Mac and its various accessories, giving you an opportunity for a more pleasant and safer computer experience.

MOB / Bailen 11, Bajos, 08010 M. 608 994 599 info@macinbarcelona.com www.macinbarcelona.com

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FREN

Mrs.Q design studio -

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS

GRAPHIC DESIGN

GRAPHIC DESIGN STUDIO

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George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years.

Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services.Contact Mrs.Q for their competitive business packages which includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as flyers, posters and brochures. They specialises in bespoke invitations.

Visit their Etsy page to see examples for their work www.etsy.com/shop/ MrsQdesignstudio.

M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com Instagram #mrsqdesignstudio

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

Fábrica de Flyers - BUSINESS

Barcelona Women’s Network - BUSINESS

Fábrica de Flyers brings the successful concept of high class printing and design to Barcelona at competitive prices and provides a quality service to match. Eight years of experience on the German market made them one of the leading printing agencies, with clients all over Germany, Austria and Switzerland.

Fábrica de Flyers is not an advertisment agency, but the best partner to create your publicity!

Pujades 74-80, 3º 7ª, 08005 T. 93 485 6422 info@fabricadeflyers.com www.fabricadeflyers.com

Supported charities 2014 - 2016

• Barcelona’s premier network for international women • Over 200 members from 30+ countries.

• As a social club that supports local charities and offers a business network, activities include social gatherings, cultural outings, volunteer opportunities, and business seminars. we help women thrive and feel at home in Barcelona.

membership@bcnwomensnetwork.com

president@bcnwomensnetwork.com www.bcnwomensnetwork.com

La Luna Shipping -

BARCELONA OFFICE -

LOGISTICS

SERVICED OFFICE SPACE Barcelona Office is a street-level premises by the Gothic Cathedral. In contrast to many coworking spaces, they focus on long-term professionals and companies who need a disturbance-free space with their own desk and storage facilities, along with their own key for 24 hour, seven days a week access.

The space is open-plan and fully furnished. They provide: desk, chair, under-desk cabinet, shelving, fiber optic wireless internet connection, laser printers, photocopy, scanner, shared meeting area with sofa and 40 inch television for presentations.

M. 677 738 860 info@barcelonaoffice.com www.barcelonaoffice.com

we offer a complete service to efficiently manage any kind of transport. Anywhere in the world, from a overnight courier service, to an airfreight or seafreight shipment to the other side of the world. we are specialist managing personal effects shipments, small “boxed” removals from Barcelona to Europe, UK, USA, Australia, New Zealand. Don’t look further, LA LUNA shipping is your one stop shop for your transport and logistics needs in Barcelona.

T. 93 220 1715 info@laluna.coop www.laluna.coop facebook.com/ somos.lalunashipping

Garment Printing - BUSINESS Garment Printing is a printing company based in Barcelona and the UK. They offer printed clothing with personalised logos for fashion brands, staff uniforms and promotional clothing. Printed promotional products, such as flyers, business cards, printed pens, and banners are also available—anything you could want customised with a logo! whether you’re a business or an individual, we can help you fulfil your branding and printing needs. Contact them today.

Comte d’Urgell 28 T. 93 393 8194 www.garmentprinting.es

FELISA COWORK - COwORKING SPACE Felisa Cowork is a welcoming, charming and professional space in the centre of Barcelona. A place to boost your productivity in creative surroundings, among like-minded people. They offer free drinks, organic fruit, energetic breakfasts and back massages.

Open 24h. Visit their website for more details on the services they provide.

T. 93 539 0588 M. 601 111 292 hola@felisacowork.com www.felisacowork.com

VISIT OUR ONLINE BUSINESS DIRECTORY www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

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Easi-Sat - TELEVISION SERVICE Specialists in satellite TV, HD, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reliability throughout Catalunya for many years. Their professional team provides satellite television from across Europe, including Dutch, French, Italian and Russian, at unbeatable prices. IPTV for Uk terrestrial channels and French tv via internet.

(See our website for details). BEIN sports and many more available. Follow them on Facebook-Easisat and Twitter ´@PaulDuval15´.

T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 enquiries@easisat.net www.easisat.net

Act Habitat - ARCHITECTS

BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL

we can help…

Create your perfect living or work space Get the most out of your investment Acheive a healthy and sustainable environment Deal with paperwork and permits Manage the building works and costs Choose the best firm for the job Coordinate with the neighbours Get in touch, we’d love to hear from you!

Avinyó 6, 1º 2ª, 08002 T. 93 318 7121 info@act-habitat.com www.act-habitat.com

Corsa - DRIVING SCHOOL

Mark offers honest, transparent, efficient, English/Spanish/Swedish speaking handyman services. He can help you hang a mirror, paint a room, install reverse osmosis, hang blinds or curtains, do home repairs, assemble Ikea furniture and he can even fix up your place so you can get your “fianza” back from your landlord.

Hourly rates. Real time updates.

Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn everything you need to know about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

La Dolce Vita ITALIAN FASHION This new shop located in Born has exclusive Italian fashion (items of design, comfort, elegance and quality, made in Italy). They can offer advice on how to dress according to your figure and the occasion, highlighting your strengths to help you choose the most suitable clothes.

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Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

Handyman - HOME SERVICES

M. 645 691 475 mark@handymanbarcelona.com www.handymanbarcelona.com Facebook handymanbarcelona74

FEBRUARY SALES - 50% OFF CERTAIN ITEMS

BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from 4 - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday.

The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience.

They also offer specialised summer programs, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.

D’en Monec 13 T. 93 518 4773 Metro: Urquinaona (L1 & L4) Facebook ladolcevitamodahombre Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

Ask for the special Metropolitan reader offers

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324 www.corsa.cat/en/courses www.facebook.es/autoescuelacorsa

BCN WINDOWS HOME IMPROVEMENTS Do you have a cold or noisy flat? High heating bills? Then BCN Windows can help! They can double glaze your traditional wooden windows and doors without changing the way they look. Their unique system offers noise reduction, energy saving comfort and is environmentally friendly. Visit their website for more information; it even shows you how to price your own windows. Call Michael on 619 908 642 and quote ‘Metropolitan’ for a free consultation.

M. 619 908 642 www.bcnwindows.es

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COACHING COLUMN

JOB

DIRECTORY To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS

www.classifieds.barcelona-metropolitan.com

SAM SAYS...

Sam Mednick is a professional life and executive coach based in Barcelona (www. blueprintcoaching.ca). A Canadian native, she’s been living in the city for eight years working with companies as well as individuals focusing on transitions, communication, leadership training, time management and productivity, as well as emotional intelligence development.

For more coaching tips, tune into her Podcast: blueprintcoaching.podomatic.com

THIS MONTH: SHEDDING THE GUILT Dear Sam, I’m originally from the States, yet I’ve lived abroad most of my life. I’ve spent the last two decades in Barcelona and I adore everything about it. I married a Catalan and we now have two kids and live in a beautiful house just outside of Alella. All in all, I’ve never once questioned my decision to move here, until now.

Recently, I can’t seem to shake this feeling of guilt that seeps in every time I see or speak to my parents back home. Although they’re in good shape and quite ‘young’ for their age (in their seventies) I know that time is ticking. Every visit gets harder and I’m starting to question the decision I made so many years ago. Am I a bad son?

Should I move back and spend their remaining years with them? Any advice would be welcome as I’m quite torn at the moment.

Thanks in advance!

Guilt Ridden

Hi Guilt Ridden, This is a hard one and it’s a predicament that most of us struggle with at some point in our ‘expat careers’. When we’re younger we can look at our parents and think that they’re going to live forever. As they get older, however, something of a reality check sinks in, one that can often force us to re-evaluate our lives and the choices we’re making.

Last year I made a point of spending a month in Toronto with my family, instead of the usual seven to ten days. It was only an extra few weeks, but something about it made me feel more at ease, as I had started feeling the same way you do—that time will eventually run out.

The answer to your question is a very personal one and ultimately only you know what will give you peace of mind. The key, however, is knowing what you need in order to come to a place where you can be at ease with your decision.

One of the best ways to do this is to have a very real conversation with yourself.

Coaching is all about questions, so here are a few that will hopefully shed light on what’s important to you, where you’re currently at and what you need in order to live as guilt-free as possible.

Is this a case of should or want? As you explore this, I’d challenge you to remove all ‘shoulds’ from the equation. There are too many moments in life when we adhere to things that we think are expected of us rather than what we actually want to do. When you ask the question: ‘Should I move back and be with them for their remaining years?’, make sure you’re clear on what is motivating your decisions.

What is the source of your guilt? Is this self-inflicted? For example, did your parents say something to trigger this or did a specific incident occur? The more you’re able to understand where it’s coming from, the better you’ll be able to act on it and diffuse the feeling.

What’s important to you at this stage in your life? Once you figure this out, it’ll be easier to navigate hard decisions. If being surrounded by family is on the list, then that tells you something. If quality of life and furthering your career is the goal, then that might propel you in another direction. This is a hard one to answer for most of us, as it’s not something we always take the time to think about. To make it easier, I sometimes ask people to write down their truths— things they know to be true in their lives at the current moment. This often helps to break it down in terms of what’s important.

What will it take for you to be at peace with this? Remember, it’s not always so black and white. The answer might not be whether to stay or to go, it might be somewhere in the middle. It could be a lifestyle adjustment, like making more trips home, or a small daily change such as calling more often. Ask yourself what you need in order to be OK with this and then take action on your decisions.

To share your thoughts on this column or ask Sam a question, email sam@ blueprintcoaching.ca, or write to Metropolitan at editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com

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INTERVIEW

Paul Conde 35, CONSULTANT, MEXICO TEXT AND PHOTO BY RACHEL HUFFMAN.

I think that one of the hardest things for expats is knowing how and where to connect with people—to join the community on a social level.

Depending on the city, this next step can be easy or more difficult. For example, my first experience as an expat was in Madrid, where I felt really welcome. I remember a commercial on TV that I simply loved, it said, ‘If you come to Madrid, you are from Madrid’. Plus I was young, in my early twenties, and the people there took me in, showing me places around the city and inviting me out with them. I was lucky. On the other hand, when I moved to Barcelona I was in my early thirties, at a different stage in my life. I had my job. I had my girlfriend. It was harder to step outside those already established comforts and extend my social network to include new acquaintances from here.

The best advice I can give to a newcomer is to come to an event with no expectations and a big smile. In InterNations there are no strangers, only friends we haven’t met yet. In fact, I met one of my closest friends at an InterNations event.

I think Barcelona is the place to be. It’s part of this romantic notion of coming to Europe and living in a beautiful city that has everything to offer. Barcelona is not too big, not too small, surrounded by the sea and the mountains, and full of sunlight. And more specifically, if you ask an expat why they chose this city as their new home abroad, I usually get the answer, ‘Why not?’

By Ben Rowdon

SCOOP

I’m Mexican, with Cuban and Spanish ancestry. I don’t go back to Mexico that often. In fact, this past Christmas was the first time I went home in four years. I have fond memories of my childhood, though.

In 2003, I quit the job I had in Mexico and moved to Madrid to study a master’s degree in Management of Information Systems and Communication. Jobs kept me in Madrid, on and off, for five years. In between, I lived in the UK for two years and Paris for one.

Love brought me to Barcelona in 2011. My girlfriend at the time, who I met in Madrid, landed a very good job at a pharmaceutical company here, and we moved, just like that. Although we are not together anymore, I’m very happy I ended up in Barcelona. The quality of life in the city cannot be beaten. I have never considered leaving.

I volunteer as an InterNations Ambassador. I earn a living as a consultant, that’s technically my career, while my work with InterNations is my passion. Founded in 2007, by Malte Zeeck, Philipp von Plato and Christian Leifeld, InterNations is the largest global network of expats, with representatives in 390 cities worldwide and 1.9 million members to date.

I discovered the organisation for the first time after I came to Barcelona, and I immediately wanted to get involved.

I really support the philosophy behind InterNations. The focus is on helping expats feel at home abroad, meet people and find information about their new and unfamiliar environment. I have started from scratch many times in my life. I have had to find jobs in foreign cities, make new friends, set up the internet in my apartment and figure out where to buy certain necessities. In fact, when I first moved to Madrid, I even fell for an online scam when reserving an apartment before I arrived. I turned up at the apartment and nobody opened the door. A neighbour told me I had not been the only one, so I took a taxi to the nearest hotel. I see InterNations as a safe harbour for people in similar situations.

As an InterNations Ambassador, I welcome new members to the Barcelona community. Every day, I answer emails from expats asking about the city—if the rent they are being charged is fair, how the healthcare system works, what’s the best neighbourhood to go to for a drink on a Thursday night and so on. InterNations provides an amazing resource for newbies, answering their personal queries and offering support in a place where they don’t know anyone else.

There are four ambassadors in town. Between us, we organise and host events exclusively for InterNations members at some of the best venues in town. I think the best part of event organising is when all the work is done, it’s happening, and I am able to relax and enjoy the moment.

Our events range from casual meet and greets for newcomers to themed nights at local bars. We organise nights out to listen to live jazz, as well as dinners, wine tastings and hikes in and around Barcelona. In the past, we’ve hosted Catalan cooking workshops and arranged specialised tours, like last month’s tour of the fishing port and market. There is also a more serious side to InterNations. We invite our members to business presentations by Barcelona CEOs and networking events, and hold regular book reviews.

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