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BURN, BABY BURN
OLD MEETS NEW
UNDER THE INFLUENCE
Las Fallas in Valencia
The Gothic Quarter comes alive
Foreign artists inspired by Barcelona
MUSIC
FASHION
RESTAURANT REVIEWS
A PLACE OF MY OWN
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METROPOLITAN contributors
contents {ISSUE 230} MARCH 2016
RegulaRs 06 08 10 33 34 36 49 50
New in Town In the City A Place of My Own Fashion Travel Food & Drink Coaching Column Interview
FeatuRes 12 RePORt: tHe BaRCelONa BRaND Esther Jones takes a look at the phenomenal success of the city’s brand. 18 BaRRI gÒtIC aWaKeNs A breath of fresh air is blowing through the city’s oldest streets. 29 ROaD tO lesBOs Barcelona lends a hand in the biggest refugee crisis since World War Two. 30 CReatIVe VIBes Foreign artists who have found inspiration in the city. 34 las Fallas Valencia’s festival of fire takes place this month.
WHat’s ON 20 22 24 26
Music Art Misc. Pullout Calendar
DIReCtORIes 41 43 44 49
Melissa Fry Born and raised on the outskirts of London, Melissa is midway through her degree in Graphic Design at Kingston University in London. Currently living and working in Barcelona, she is inspired by exploring and understanding different cultures, meeting new people and working in a city with such a rich culture. Melissa loves learning new disciplines and discovering places, and she tries to expose herself to as many creative avenues as possible. While in Barcelona, she is also studying Spanish.
Clare Sheppard Clare graduated from University College Dublin with a degree in English and Italian and a Master’s degree in European Studies. Having lived in Italy, she moved to Barcelona in 2009 where she feels lucky to be able to dedicate much of her time to wordy pursuits: writing, translating, proofreading and teaching. She has previously contributed to Art Slant.
Food & Drink Health & Beauty Business Jobs
Melissa Rossi
Publisher The Noise Lab S.L. Managing Director Andrea Moreno Consulting Editor Esther Jones Editor Carol Moran Art Director Aisling Quigley Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell Editorial Assistants Rosalind Bond, Eimear Corrigan, Rachel Huffman, Christina McKeon Frutuoso, George Rexstrew Design Assistant Melissa Fry Contributors Miquel Hudin, Esther Jones, Sam Mednick, Toni Rocamora, Melissa Rossi, Clare Sheppard, Sam Zucker Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial: editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com General: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com Carrer Duc 6, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486 www.barcelona-metropolitan.com The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited. Depósito legal: B35159-96
Former nightlife columnist for Seattle Weekly and European travel columnist for National Geographic Traveler, Melissa Rossi is the author of 12 books, including the biography Courtney Love: Queen of Noise (1996) and a series about geopolitics. Living in seven countries since 2008, she keeps shoring up here. “Wherever I am—Chiang Mai, Mumbai, Manhattan, Brussels, Seattle, Portland, Paris—I wander the Barri Gòtic in my mind,” she said. “I dream about it constantly.” The barrio is also the setting for her comedic novel-in-progress, Ghostwriting with Camus.
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IN THE CITY
new
SEEDS OF CHANGE
IN TOWN
FASHION PER UOMO
LA DOLCE VITA MODA HOMBRE. MÒNEC 13. From pharmacy to fashion, it was a brave career change that brought Luca Caprera to open this clothing boutique for men in the Barri Gòtic last September. Caprera has only lived in Barcelona since last April, yet in just five months, he has managed to single-handedly open this luxury, multi-brand store that offers Italian clothing to the cosmopolites of Barcelona. Having worked as a pharmacist for eight years, Caprera now manages his store on Carrer d’En Mònec, a perfect location with a chic, artisan atmosphere that reflects the store’s overall philosophy. His plan is to return to Italy two or three times a year to source clothing and accessories—many of which are handmade—for the boutique. The coming season’s selection has already been sourced all the way from Milan and Florence. With no Spanish brands in store, the focus remains entirely on limited pieces that will turn heads thanks to their Italian sophistication. “Whether the client is dressing for a special occasion or he is simply a stylish individual looking for great quality, everyday pieces, I make sure that every visitor to the store receives personal attention, spending as much time as necessary with each client, one-to-one,” Caprera assured. www.facebook.com/ladolcevitamodahombre.es
BALANCING ACT
ALKALINE. ENTENÇA 62. Barcelona native Richard Glezmar opened his restaurant Alkaline seven months ago, but the research and thought that has gone into this project stretches back much further. The son of patisserie owners, Glezmar has been involved in the food industry since a young age and has extensive experience in hospitality, having worked in hotels around the world. Alkaline’s owner not only brings his culinary expertise to this new project, but also his scientific knowledge. After finishing school, Glezmar worked for a swimming pool company, analysing water pH, which led him to an interest in the pH of food and the work of Dr. Otto Warburg (1883-1970). Warburg discovered that while healthy cells are alkaline, cancerous cells are acidic, and it is therefore important to balance the acidic food we eat with alkaline food. The recipes, which the owner invents himself along with the help of his chef, are the result of many years of experience and research in different fields. Glezmar is guided by six aspects that he believes all diners look for in a good restaurant: good food, good service, speed, economy, the ‘wow’ factor and health. One dish in particular, the green salmon, certainly accomplishes the wow factor, as do other unusual flavour combinations, such as avocado, mint and aloe vera ice cream. The concept is also represented in the drink selection, with a range of ecological wine, superfood-containing beers (including the world’s first aloe vera beer), and, of course, alkaline water.
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SEEDS. VILLARROEL 204. Quick, healthy, homemade food to takeaway is not easily found in Barcelona. It is, however, in high demand. One entrepreneurial hub which has cottoned on to the gap in the market is Seeds, located in the Eixample, on the corner where Villarroel meets Londres. Space in the small premises is maximised to showcase a varied selection of home-cooked dishes and sweet treats, buffet-style. The fresh buffet is filled with delicious food, bursting with homemade goodness, including traditional meat and fish dishes along with some great vegetarian options. The focus is on the use of organic ingredients, avoiding the usual fats and salts often associated with takeaway food. They serve salads of a different calibre, using healthy ingredients such as quinoa and chickpeas, to ensure a high nutrient level. For mains, you can choose from a selection of stuffed baked potatoes, aubergines, courgettes and empanadas. The range of desserts varies, but if you’re lucky you’ll get to try their delicious brownies. Seeds offers creative dishes with original flavour combinations, and the menu changes each day. So, ditch your cheese sarnies and treat yourself to a feast. www.facebook.com/seedstakeaway
5 WAYS TO GET ACTIVE THIS SPRING CLIMBING IN MONTJUÏC Try your hand at rock climbing in the safety of the Climbat climbing centre at La Foixarda on Montjuïc. Start with Climbat 1, a series of three one-hour classes for beginners, which costs €59. www.climbat.com ARCHERY Learn the ancient art of archery at the Club Arc Montjuïc. The 10-hour introductory course consists of five two-hour classes and costs €180. Once you’ve completed the course, you can apply for club membership. www.arcmontjuic.cat SKATEBOARDING Ever looked at the kids by the MACBA and wished you could skateboard? Longschool is on hand to help, whatever your skill level. Classes take place in Parc del Fòrum and prices range from €20 for group classes to €35 for individual sessions. www.thelongschool.com
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IN SEASON
EL MERCADER DE L’EIXAMPLE. MALLORCA 239. “I am not a fan of the copy-and-paste generation,” admitted economistturned-restauranteur, Claudio Hoyos. He loathes the mass production of food, which often leaves consumers clueless about where it comes from. For Hoyos, the traceability of all products is key, and his recently opened restaurant, El Mercader, uses only organic, seasonal and local produce. Uniquely, the menu also mentions the provider of each product, and diners may ask to see proof of any product’s source. But why all the fuss about locally sourced products? “It makes for better food,” said Hoyos. “People are not idiots; you can’t cheat them with foods containing high levels of preservatives and additives, which is inevitable if you use products that have been flown or shipped in.” With his own allotment in Parc de Collserola, it’s clear that Hoyos pours his heart and soul into advocating the Slow Food philosophy throughout the restaurant. It has the seal of approval from the ‘Kilometre 0’ campaign, it is certified by the Slow Food Association and he even chose the location due to its proximity to his home. If you’re looking for great quality platillos of traditional Catalan cuisine, you need look no further than the corner where Passatge de Mercader meets Carrer de Mallorca to find this endearing little gem.
BEACH FIT BARCELONA Summer’s not so far away, so if you care about your beach body, get in shape with Beach Fit Barcelona. Classes cost €8 each, or pay €40 per month and attend all the classes you want (7am and 8am on weekdays, 9am and 10.30am on Saturdays). www.beachfit.bcn PING PONG IN THE PARKS There are more than 100 ping pong tables in the city’s parks, free for anyone to use. Buy some rackets and balls at Decathlon for less than €10 and you’ll have hours of fun at your fingertips.
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IN THE CITY
streetlife
DOCTOR DOU
ALELUYA Dr. Dou 16. aleluyashop.tumblr.com As a high fashion concept store, Aleluya sells chic, greyscale apparel for men and women. A lot of items in the store—hooded cardigans, long coats, knitted tees, bomber jackets—are unisex wear. If you’re striving for a cool, monochrome closet, this is where you should be shopping.
METROPOLITAN PEOPLE
AMIGOS SKATE SHOP Dr. Dou 16. amigoskateshop.com From boards to shoes, flat-brimmed hats to custom shirts designed only for Amigos, this shop sells everything a skater needs. Having moved to its current location about a year ago from the Barri Gòtic, they maintained their slogan, ‘From downtown Barcelona to amigos all over the world’. “I come from a long line of businessmen, and I love skateboarding,” said owner Julio, originally from Venezuela. “Amigos Skate Shop combines the two: my legacy and my personal passion.”
A drop of the Eixample in the heart of the Raval, this is the sleek side of the downtown neighbourhood.
BARCELONA REYKJAVIK Dr. Dou 12. www.barcelonareykjavik.com Established in Barcelona in 2005, this bakery now has four locations around the city. Their popularity has a lot to do with their recipe: 100 percent sourdough, 100 percent long fermentation, 100 percent organic ingredients. So whether you order a snacksized spelt bread ball or sink your teeth into a fluffy muffin, you won’t be disappointed. Amsterdam native Wendeline chose this bakery over others in the neighbourhood because of how inviting it looks from the street. “Once I was inside, I knew I had made a good choice,” she said. “Up close, all their products look authentic, and the incredible smells coming from the kitchen entice you to try everything.”
CAROLINA BLUE Dr. Dou 11. www.carolinabluedeco.com Although this store won’t blow your mind with its creativity, it does offer some nice, earthy home decorations, such as wiry chandeliers, linen pillows, crocheted lampshades, and plant holders in a variety of shapes and styles. There are also a few personal items, including purses, light sweaters and delicate jewellery.
WHAT SYMBOLISES BARCELONA BEST FOR YOU?
KOBITA, 24,
PAULA, 20, STUDENT, BARCELONA
YAGO, 21,
Partying till the early hours of the morning. The glitz and glamour of a soirée by the beach is what I love most about the city.
For me, it has to be a walk down Las Ramblas. It’s brimming with people of so many nationalities all year round. It’s this multiculturalidad that makes the city stand out.
I’m from Barcelona and, for me, eating delicious tapas with a cerveza by the beach symbolises the city perfectly.
STUDENT, BANGLADESH
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FASHION INTERN, BARCELONA
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EBRA NATURAL Dr. Dou 13. www.futonbarcelona.com Ebra Natural specialises in natural products designed for a perfect night’s sleep. Their handmade mattresses are the secret to a healthy rest; choose between 100 percent cotton or wool, and use the plush mattresses as a bed or futon. The bases and frames are made of different types of solid wood, and tatamis—mats used as floor coverings in traditional Japanesestyle rooms—are also available to compliment your mattress design.
m kery
LASER BARCELONA Dr. Dou 2. laser-bcn.com Laser Barcelona has been around for five years. They began selling their fashion goods online and in other stores until their following was big enough to open a flagship store in the Raval less than two years ago. The brand was founded by a local couple; Justo designs everything, including the distinctive patches on their hats and shirts that say ‘DIY Attitude’, and Raquel runs the store, taking care of sales, media, etc. “It’s a lot of work for just the two of us,” said Raquel, “but we don’t mind.” Her striking photographs also decorate the store and portray their clientele modelling Laser gear in iconic Barcelona spots. The couple and their brand fit in perfectly with this trendy area.
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DOSTRECE Carme 40 (corner of Dr. Dou and Carme). www.dostrece.es Come and sit at a simple wooden table to savour DosTrece’s ever-changing menú del día or a standard brunch of pancakes and eggs. They also have a variety of vegan options, from pear oat scones and carrot muffins, to breakfast nachos and French toast. You can keep the fun going all night, too, with their tasty cocktails and impromptu house parties.
FELIX, 29, PHOTOGRAPHER, VALENCIA The Museu del Disseny symbolises Barcelona in a building: its architecture and its ideas reflect the overall spirit and vision of the city.
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IN THE CITY
A place of MY OWN
MOTHER AND DAUGHTER, JULIE AND ELLA STEPHENSON, LIVE IN THE BUZZING HEART OF THE CITY, JUST ABOVE THE TREE TOPS OF PLAÇA REIAL. TEXT BY RACHEL HUFFMAN. PHOTOS BY MELISSA FRY.
S
ome people would hate living in one of the most popular plaças of Barcelona, hearing loud tourists, cerveza men and accordion music from their apartment at all hours of the day and night. Brazilian acrobats performing outside your window once is a treat, but seeing them four times a day could become disconcerting. However, Julie Stephenson, cofounder of homeless charity, Esperança, and her 17-year-old daughter, Ella, consider themselves lucky to live in a flat directly off Plaça Reial. They’re city girls, having lived on Carders before gradually moving into their current place last autumn, and couldn’t see themselves anywhere outside the centre. “I wouldn’t be living here if it wasn’t for Ella, though,” Julie explained. The flat technically belongs to Ella’s father. In the past, he rented it out, but when the last contract finished, he offered it to Ella. She hadn’t seen the apartment since she was 10, but after visiting, she was sure it was where she wanted to live. “So it’s really Ella’s apartment, and I’m just crashing.” When you first enter the flat, the airy, high-ceilinged rooms are a pleasant surprise. As you continue to walk around, you realise the layout is basically one giant circle, with everything revolving around the light well in the middle. “In the past, this place was actually an 11-room pensión,” said Julie. It’s hard to imagine how that would have worked looking at the wide open spaces of the flat today. First, there’s the wonderfully roomy kitchen. “I like having a kitchen that people can also sit in and hang out,” said Julie. “Cooks like to be sociable, too.” This leads into the elongated dining/living room, which stretches across the entire front of the apartment. Three sets of floor-to-ceiling windows provide views of the square below, perfect for people-watching. “It was still warm when we moved in,” said Julie, “so we would sit on the balcony and enjoy the gorgeous views as much as possible.” With room to move about and a table that seats 16, this area comes in handy for hosting events. From dinner parties to fondue nights to big Sunday brunches, the pair always seem to be planning something fun at the flat. Every Christmas, Julie has a girls’ night out with her friends and, this year, they used her flat for pre-drinks. “Everyone was so comfortable,
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laughing and enjoying themselves inside, we almost didn’t want to leave.” Ella and her friends also use the flat to get ready before they go out, and they often end up coming back here at the end of the night. “My two best friends always spend the night at my place,” said Ella. When you live in the middle of Barcelona’s best nightspots, you’re clearly destined to have house guests come the weekend. But Ella assures us it’s a lot of fun. Although the flat came mostly furnished, their personalities still shine through in the decoration and in some signature pieces. The most noticeable addition to the living room is a rocking horse that Ella received for her first birthday from her uncle. It’s a sentimental piece that they could never get rid of. The piano, two colourful abstract paintings and a psychedelic floor lamp are also personal touches. Plus two chunky trunks—one of dark wood and the other painted to resemble playing cards—that Julie found a long time ago at secondhand shops. The cosiest part of the flat is the small nook at the back, where the girls have recreated the living room from their previous flat. Full of soft cushions and blankets, mother and daughter can chill there together and watch TV on their projector. “In fact, when it’s just the two of us, we rarely use the main living room,” Julie admitted. From there, you can access the bedrooms. Ella uses two of them for a mixture of sleep and study. “I love how spacious the apartment is, but I need a place where I can shut myself off from everything,” she said.
The view of Plaça Reial from the front living room.
If you have made yourself an interesting home from home and would like to appear in our Place of My Own feature, please send an email to editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com.
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Top left: Ella astride her 16-year-old rocking horse. Above: The girls’ snug TV room.
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“That’s what these rooms are for.” The master suite is Julie’s, and it flows back around to the sights and sounds of the square. “The best thing is that I can drink my coffee in bed and still see the tops of the palm trees out there,” she said with a smile. The bedrooms are all equipped with double-pane windows, but that doesn’t mean the girls sleep in a silent oasis. “I honestly can’t believe how noisy it is,” Julie said. “It’s really quite incredible.” Ella agreed the noise is hard to handle, but she countered, “If that’s the only con of a beautiful apartment like this, you get used to it.” And they both really love everything else about the neighbourhood. “This area gives me a real sense of community,” said Ella. “When I walk down the street, I always see familiar faces. The shop owners or locals walking their dogs. It’s nice.” She also enjoys a chat with the men selling beer. “They don’t hassle me like they do the tourists,” she explained. “I like talking to them, and I know they have my back if I become a target for any robbers in the vicinity.” For Julie, it’s all about her routes. When she’s out walking their dog, Lula, she tends to drop by the same places, such as Penny Banger, which her friend owns, the new Federal Café in the Barri Gòtic, or somewhere in Plaça de George Orwell. It’s strange for them to think about ever leaving this place, the apartment and maybe even Barcelona. Their situation seems so perfect, but Ella is going to finish school soon. She hasn’t decided where she wants to go to university, but England—where she was born—is an option. “I would miss my friends so much if I left, not to mention the Barcelona vibe and way of living,” she said. “I have lived here since I was three, so for me it would mean leaving my home, not just this amazing apartment.” Julie, on the other hand, is just going to miss living with her daughter. “Sometimes it’s like having a large, messy roommate rather than a child,” Julie joked, reflecting on all their years shared under the same roof. And then on a more serious note, “Everyone who knows me knows I’m going to miss Ella very much when she leaves home. But it’s inevitable. That’s life.”
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A Sense of Place
T
THE BARCELONA BRAND HAS GLOBAL APPEAL, BUT IT ISN'T ALWAYS EASY AT THE TOP. TEXT BY ESTHER JONES.
ell someone you live in Barcelona and invariably their eyes light up. Maybe they’re thinking of a lazy evening beer on a terrace by the beach or a gentle stroll through the old streets of the Barri Gòtic. Or perhaps it’s just the easy going, creative vibe of this little city that seems to offer so much—from cuisine to beaches, architecture to football—that makes it a place that everyone loves. Any multinational would envy the power of the Barcelona brand. Yet, just a quarter of a century ago, the city was an unlikely holiday or business destination. So, how did the Catalan capital manage to become one of the world’s favourite cities? And is there a downside to such international pulling power? Cities inspire us. Paris makes us think of romance, Tokyo, technology and Las Vegas, pure indulgence. And, in a hyper-connected world of global business and easy travel, the ability to stand out is essential. Cities are competing with each other for tourists, talent, investment and international events, all of which create jobs and fill the city coffers. They need to be able to communicate what makes them unique and attractive to potential visitors, residents and investors. And that’s where place branding comes in. Towns and cities around the world are using place branding to define and communicate their unique qualities. Barcelona makes it look easy but it isn’t. According to a study by place branding consultancy K629, based on a database of 5,000 place brands, 86 percent of brands fail within the first year.
THE BRAND NEEDS TO UNITE ALL THE CITY’S STAKEHOLDERS, FROM THE LOCAL GOVERNMENT TO BUSINESSES, AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, THE RESIDENTS THEMSELVES. Experts agree that a successful city brand has to be truthful and an accurate reflection of the city’s authentic personality and assets. It isn’t an advertising campaign. According to place branding guru Bill Baker, author of Destination Branding for Small Cities (2007), the mistake is to apply the same criteria to a place that an advertising agency might apply to a product. City branding is far more complex. “A city brand must stand the test of time, public debate, political scrutiny, media questions, and the analysis of marketing partners and residents,” said Baker. The brand needs to unite all the city’s stakeholders, from the local government to businesses, and most importantly, the residents themselves. A successful brand resonates with the locals and inspires civic pride. Furthermore, a city’s policies must be consistent with its brand. So, if the branding focuses on being a place to do business, the city has to be business-friendly. If it’s about being a party city, then permits and regulations for bars and clubs will be a key factor in its success. According to the The Guardian's City Brand Barometer, Barcelona is
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the world’s sixth most powerful city brand after Los Angeles, New York, London, Paris and Seoul. Not bad at all for a city of 1.7 million people that, just 25 years ago, for all its world-class architecture and enviable location, was a post-industrial city with little international appeal. And the Catalan capital consistently makes the top 10 in a plethora of global rankings, from lifestyle to foreign investment and innovation (see below). So how did the Barcelona brand reach such heights in such a short space of time? The city already had the key ingredients that make it so popular today: spectacular Modernista architecture, the atmospheric little streets of the Barri Gòtic, a world-class football team and an unbeatable location on the Mediterranean. Equally important was its strong sense of identity and desire for innovation and progress. But, perhaps the main secret of its branding success lay in the way the city used the outstanding transformation it went through to host the 1992 Olympics. Barcelona has a long history of using big events and its own urban renewal for getting its story out there. In 1888, it hosted the Universal Exposition, choosing the slogan ‘Paris of the South’ to accompany the urban development underway, which included the building of the Ciutadella park and the Arc de Triomf. In 1908, the 'Society for the Attraction of Foreigners' was launched to actively promote tourism by way of an information office and the publishing of leaflets and articles. The city had another chance to show off its urban metamorphosis when it hosted the 1929 Universal Exposition. Preparations included the building of El Prat airport, the development of Plaça de Catalunya and extensive investment in the city’s infrastructure. In the years between the two Expos, Antoni Gaudí, Lluís Domènech i Montaner and Josep Puig i Cadafalch, among others, had made their indelible mark on the city by way of their Modernista architecture, with the construction of buildings such as Casa Amatller, La Pedrera, Casa Batlló and the Palau de la Música. Barcelona had a lot to show the world.
7 AWARDS
1st
Cushman & Wakefield European Cities Monitor Quality of life for employees, 2011
6th
6th
Global Brand Survey (The Guardian Cities), 2014
City Reputation Institute, 2015
12th
8th
Global CIties Investment Monitor (KPMG), 2014
European City Attractiveness for Investors (EY), 2015
EUROPEAN CAPITAL OF INNOVATION, 2014
GLOBAL SMART CITY (Juniper Research), 2015
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7 BARCELONA
8 THE CITY in numbers from 1994 - 2013
HOTELS 1994 2013
146
INTERNATIONAL TRAVELLERS AT THE AIRPORT 1994 2013
365
4.2 million
CONGRESSES AND CONVENTIONS 1994 2013
703
25 million
CRUISE SHIP PASSENGERS 1994 2013
2039
173,000
2.6 million
TOURISTS 1994 2013
2.6 million
7.5 million
Jump forward 65 years and the Olympic Games became another defining moment for the city, as it used the event to regenerate areas and create new infrastructures. These would have a lasting impact. Old factories and wasteland made way for six kilometres of beach and gleaming new buildings, such as the MACBA, L'Illa, Maremagnum and the Hotel Arts, which gave the city a new air of modernity. Montjuïc was transformed into a lush, green centre for leisure and sports, and the last of the shantytowns, which had sprung up with the influx of workers from other parts of Spain during the mid-20th century, were removed. The success of the Olympics was no fluke. The city knew what it wanted to achieve. In 1988 the Ajuntament developed the city's first Strategic Plan (Pla Estratègic Metropolità Barcelona), taking advantage of Barcelona's nomination as host of the Olympic Games. The Plan’s purpose was to identify and promote strategies for the city’s future development using the Olympics regeneration, and to ensure the participation of local organisations and the promotion of public and private initiatives. Neighbourhood and grassroots associations already had a strong voice in city life, and they played a key role in the Olympic planning. It was a chance to showcase Barcelona’s finest assets to the world and civic pride had never been stronger. By the mid-to-late Nineties, and helped by the advent of low-cost airlines, the Olympic effect began to show results as the city started gaining a reputation as a weekend leisure destination and an ideal location for business meetings. The Barcelona brand was taking shape. The Strategic Plan is revised every few years and its purpose is 'to identify the Metropolitan area’s needs and potential in the medium term and to create the best conditions possible for the future'. Vital to the plan’s success
is involvement of the city’s key entities. Taking part in the plan are workers’ associations, business organisations, the city council, industry groups and the University of Barcelona. The 2015 Strategic Plan looks ahead to 2025, and reevaluates the city’s challenges and opportunities in the context of the recent economic crisis and new opportunities in Europe. Cooperation between the public and private sectors was part of the Barcelona Olympics model and the city has continued to follow this strategy, actively encouraging participation in the city’s future. The building of the Poblenou @22 district is an example of this model, which combines urban planning with private investment from companies establishing themselves in the area. In 2014, Barcelona City Council launched Barcelona Open Challenge which invites businesses and entrepreneurs to give solutions to problems, from bicycle theft to social isolation. The city’s smart city website encourages individuals and companies to put forward their ideas for apps that can help the lives of residents and visitors.
ILLEGAL RENTAL APARTMENTS ARE FREQUENTLY BLAMED FOR THE RISE IN THE LOW-COST TOURISM, ENCOURAGING BARCELONA’S REPUTATION AS A PARTY CITY WITH AN ‘ANYTHING GOES’ ATMOSPHERE. As a result of the city’s international success, tourism, which accounted for less than two percent of the city's pre-Olympic GDP, is now worth 12.5 percent. Barcelona's airport handled 2.9 million passengers in 1991; last year that figure had risen to 21 million. International consultancy firm EY ranked Barcelona as the 8th most attractive European city for investors, and around 12 percent of property sold in 2015 was bought by foreigners. In addition, Barcelona is number one in Europe for business conferences and, on paper at least, it seems that Barcelona is achieving the impossible: pleasing all people, all of the time. It isn’t all plain sailing though, and behind the numbers there is some disgruntlement. The sheer number of visitors in the city centre has caused tensions to rise, particularly in those neighbourhoods which receive the most visitors, namely Ciutat Vella and the Barceloneta. The shopping antics of three naked Italian men in the Barceloneta in 2014 resulted in demonstrations by local residents. Illegal rental apartments are frequently blamed for the rise in the low-cost tourism based around the city centre, encouraging Barcelona’s reputation as a party city with an ‘anything goes’ atmosphere. The Ajuntament has since reacted with a heavy hand to keep things in line, banning organised bar crawls and outlawing unlicensed apartments, but some say it has been slow to anticipate the problems. For many local residents the overflowing streets are changing the personality of the city, the very charm that attracted tourists in the first place. The risk, they say, is that Barcelona becomes like Venice, long since resigned to be a year-round open-air museum. Tourists are, of course, disappointed by the long queues for the Sagrada Familia and the Bus Turístic, and the jampacked streets in the old town, but they keep on coming. So, while successful branding needs to be based on the city’s authentic character and assets, and policies need to be in line with this branding, is there a risk that the branding itself will start to drive the policies and change the city’s character, particularly if one group of stakeholders is seen as more valuable than another? Is it possible to meet the needs of residents, tourists and business visitors without favouring one group? In the 2010 Ciutat Vella Pla d’Usos (the official regulation of city space), a temporary ban was imposed to halt the building of hotels and strict regulations for new bar and restaurant permits were introduced. The goal was to control tourist-related activity in the city’s smallest and most
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OPINIONS dense district and to achieve some kind of harmony between residents and visitors. In 2013, much to the fury of local residents and businesses, the plan was changed and, among other things, this ban was lifted. Ten restaurant and bar zones were introduced and the maximum density of tourist establishments, introduced in 2010, was done away with. However, in June 2015, soon after entering office, new mayor, Ada Colau, reintroduced the hotel and tourist apartment ban, this time stopping projects in their tracks throughout the city. She was quickly labelled the ‘anti-tourist’ mayor, but Colau insisted that the idea was to ‘take a snapshot of the situation’ and allow local government time to elaborate a sustainable tourist model for the future. She argued that this was vital for residents and for the success of the tourist industry. “More and more tourists are disappointed when they visit Barcelona because in the centre they find a theme park.” And it would be hard to find anyone in the city who didn’t agree that the present model, fruit of Barcelona’s phenomenal branding success, needs some rethinking.
THE REALITY IS THAT THE BARCELONA BRAND INSPIRES TEMPTING VISIONS OF A RELAXED MEDITERRANEAN LIFESTYLE, BUT WHEN IT COMES TO SERIOUS BUSINESS, THE CITY JUST DOESN’T HAVE THE SAME CLOUT. Ada Colau has every intention of continuing the participative process by involving residents in the planning of the city’s future, and €450,000 has been earmarked for public engagement in the Plan d’Actuació Municipal 2016-2019 (a road map that plans the city hall’s finances for the four-year mandate). Every district of the city will hold around 100 mini debates of between 10 and 25 people in order to collect opinions, suggestions and ideas from the city’s residents. Another pending issue is the branding of Barcelona as a business destination. The city hosts a huge amount of conferences and business events and is making waves in the startup world—2015 was a record year for startups in Catalunya, with financing rounds raising over €260 million. Foreign investment in the region is at an all-time high. According to Foment del Treball’s ‘Report of the Economic Situation’, Catalunya attracted almost €2 billion during the first half of 2015, an increase of 281.2 percent compared to the same period the previous year. Yet, professional opportunities are still thin on the ground and moving to Barcelona from other countries often involves a cut in salary and responsibilities or setting up your own business. The reality is that the Barcelona brand inspires tempting visions of a relaxed Mediterranean lifestyle, but when it comes to serious business, the city just doesn’t have the same clout. The branding of Barcelona as a business city is the main preoccupation of Barcelona Global, which was launched in 2008. This independent, non-profit association aims to help Barcelona develop economic activity by attracting and engaging international skilled professionals. The association has set up a number of innovative tools, including events to welcome new international professionals and an annual survey to pinpoint the key areas in which Barcelona needs to improve. So what lies ahead for Barcelona as it weighs up the positive and negative effects of its global branding success story? It seems likely that the Barcelona brand will try to steer away from the low-cost party crowd while continuing to establish itself as a serious city for investment and business. Inevitably, different interest groups will continue to have conflicting agendas and it will be up to the local government to tread a delicate path as it tries to keep all stakeholders on board. For while economic growth is vital to this city, it is likely to be short lived unless it is based on a reality that everyone buys into.
WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THE BARCELONA BRAND? CLAIRE NIELSEN
TOURIST
NORTH CAROLINA, USA
Barcelona has absolutely lived up to my expectations. We expected an old city with windy streets and that's exactly what we've found. We also anticipated a cosmopolitan and multicultural atmosphere and this is definitely true of Barcelona.
ROHIT GADKAR NEW YORK CITY, USA
FOREIGN RESIDENT
I think Barcelona undeniably has a great reputation among foreigners, as they've done a good job marketing themselves as a 'cool' city. As a resident, I tend to agree with the veracity of that image, but when you live here, you become so absorbed in your day-to-day life and don't get to enjoy all those things as much. In addition, tourists are not mingling with the locals so I think they get the impression that the city is more cosmopolitan than it really is; although, in the six years I’ve been here, the city has become quite a bit more cosmopolitan. Overall, I think Barcelona's brand is relatively accurate with reality, as long as you have time to enjoy all that the city has to offer. Living somewhere is always different to visiting, no matter which city it is.
MIGUEL ÁNGEL VILLOSLADA,
LOCAL RESIDENT
BARCELONA
The brand has been a huge success, and as a local I have seen a radical change for the better, but I believe that the city needs to renew its branding model in order to create a more sustainable situation. An in-depth analysis from different angles is required, not just in terms of urbanism and business, but with a focus on social factors and how the different players—residents, tourists and stakeholders—are affected by it.
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A new dawn RECENTLY OPENED BUSINESSES BREATHE NEW LIFE INTO THE CITY’S OLDEST STREETS. TEXT BY MELISSA ROSSI.
Principis D’Ataülf 10
PA S S E IG D E CO L OM
T
he glowing lantern offered the first clue that something was up in the Barri Gòtic. It was hanging from a tree before the Roman wall, illuminating a square that before had seemed dark and uninviting. The second clue, two streets away, was a wall of artfully angled white pails, with golden loaves lining a rack beyond. The third clue was a mysterious sign hanging on a shadowed street—one side blank, the letter ‘B’ painted in white on the other—and an intoxicating aroma seeping out from under closed wooden doors. More clues appeared: vintage floral wallpaper here, fringed Victorian lamp there, and everywhere the serpentine streets echoed with sounds of construction. The Barri Gòtic, after a long nap, was waking up. Or as Carla Trevessat—coowner, waitress and de facto designer of cocktail bar Carlos and Matilda—put it, “The Gothic Quarter is on fire—it’s like something new opens daily.”
B
Palma de Sant Just
Carlos and Matilda (aka C&M) Baixada de Viladecols 6
VIA LAIETANA
CARLOS AND MATILDA (AKA C&M) Killer cocktails in chill-out bohemia “I love candles,” Carla said, as the tea lights glistened on four tables in Plaça dels Traginers. “They’re subtle, but they speak to the subconscious.” Inside the corner nook—formerly Can Fly—she lit more candles, held within antique cut-crystal holders, as I surveyed the hanging copper lamps, vintage mirrors along tiled walls, weathered wood stools, and the overall glowing charm that compels passersby to peek inside. If the alluring decor pulls them in, the ‘culinary cocktails’ created with homemade mixers are the reason they stay. C&M’s co-owner, Londoner Mathew Perovetz, crafts drinks with care, be they Moscow Mules (vodka, lime and zesty ginger beer), Scorpions (rum, cognac, OJ and almond syrup), Cava Cocktails (bubbly dressed up with vanilla bitters and chartreuse), or any of the 10 signature drinks that change monthly. “Cocktails are supposed to be fun,” he said. “You shouldn’t have to go to a hotel bar where the bartender wears a bowtie and white gloves to find a good one.” He aims to make the best cocktails around and, judging by the coterie of fans perched at his bar, he’s succeeding. Hint: Intimate and low-key inside, C&M’s candle-lit terrace entices, too. Baixada de Viladecols 6.
Photos by Verena Galias
Photo by Melissa Fry
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ant Just
PRINCIPIS Organic food and exquisite bread at great prices Mireia Alegre designs websites, while Jorge Ferré is an industrial designer for trendy hotels. One day, the couple found themselves running all over town in order to find all the items on an organic food shopping list, and they realised the Barri Gòtic needed an affordable, one-stop organic store. “We had to go to Sant Antoni, then Santa Caterina, then Ciutadella, another store uptown and, even then, many things weren’t organic,” said Mireia. “Jorge suggested we open our own organic food store so we could find everything we needed in one place.” Renting a former artist’s studio, Jorge created eyecatching displays, starting with the wall of tilted pails, while Mireia sourced locally-made products from small producers. The results: hand-shaped loaves of chewy bread, flavour-packed olive oil, ‘birds’ nests’ of artisanal pasta, farm-fresh eggs, and heirloom grains like kamut—all organic, from the wine and yoghurt to miso and umeboshi, and the seasonal produce featuring antique varieties, such as brown apples. Hint: Deliveries are received on Tuesdays and Thursdays, bread sells out quickly, so call to reserve a loaf. D’Ataülf 10. Tel. 93 011 8838.
Photos by Melissa Fry
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Photos by Martin Marco
Photo by Melissa Fry
B All-natural alchemy for skin Enter through the wooden doors of B and inside it looks like a medieval apothecary: brown glass bottles lining antique cabinets, bunches of plants hanging from beams, and, behind flasks of petalinfused liquids, a man pours something from a thin tube into a copper bowl—like some modern alchemist. In this unusual skincare store, the homemade products are concocted from plant oils (almond, linseed, Japanese rice bran) mixed with infusions of bark, seeds and medicinal plants, all of which are entirely natural. The show stealer: custom-made skin creams formulated before your eyes. “I wanted to find ways to rejuvenate and protect skin naturally, so I travelled all over,” said owner Andreas Messaris, as he pressed a glass slide to my chin to assess skin health. After uncovering secrets from South America to Asia, interviewing herbalists, and drawing upon years of experimentation, he opened B to pass on lost knowledge. “I want people to become curious about herbs and about their skin.” After examining mine, he concluded that I was lacking in protein and Vitamin E, and began concocting my very own moisturiser. A flurry of flasks, vials and drops later—all whipped up in a copper bowl—he handed over the luscious face cream. “This information shouldn’t be a secret,” he added. “People can make skincare at home easily, at little expense.” When customers return for their second cream, he teaches them how to make their own. Hint: Call ahead for appointments. Palma de Sant Just. Tel. 93 515 6307.
MORE NEW ADDITIONS BAR LA MAISON With floral wallpaper, a doll collection and homely furniture, the former location of Bar Andú has been sweetly girled up. Lures: Affordable cocktails, smooth wines and bar snacks, from salmon salads to cheese fondues. Correu Vell 3. THE MINT A vast two-storey space with wood furnishings, The Mint, like sister bars Rubi and Limehouse, serves up tasty mojitos and G&Ts made from flavoured gins. Passeig d’Isabel II 4. ZURITO Sit at the meandering bar of this tiny tile-wrapped eatery and dig into ceviche, plump steamed mussels or tuna tartare, washed down by reasonably-priced wine. Llauder 6. EL FRUITER DEL GOTIC Fresh-pressed juices, a wide variety of tomatoes, wild mushrooms and exotic items, such as black garlic, are draws to this greengrocer. Plaça Regomir 2.
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WHAT’S ON
MUSIC CONCERT LISTINGS 1st. Marching Church Freedonia. Lleialtat 6. 2nd. Caravan Palace BARTS. Paral·lel 62. 2nd. Daefheaven Mykur Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 2nd. Adrian Belew Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 3rd. The Eagles of Death Metal Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 3rd. Festival Millenni 2016 - Bremen Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 4th. Kodaline Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 4th. Half Moon Run Aidan Knight Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 6th. Tori Sparks Teatre Lluïsos D’horta. Feliu i Codina 7. 7th. Halsey Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 8th. Johnny Hallyday Gran Teatre Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.
HIGH HOPES
KODALINE. SALA BIKINI. DIAGONAL 547. MARCH 4TH. From community centre battles of the bands to Europe, America and beyond, it has been over 10 years since Kodaline (originally 21 Demands) started their journey to international fame. Their first jaunt into stardom was during You’re a Star (the Irish version of The X Factor), launching them into the public eye in their native land. Their 2011 name change seems to have been a turning point for the Dublin-born foursome. Their first album as Kodaline, A Perfect World (2013), sold an unexpected 350,000 copies, with songs such as ‘All I Want’ becoming hits overnight thanks to YouTube. It wasn’t long before the quartet were back in the studio recording their second album, Coming Up For Air (2015), which they managed to put together in just eight weeks. With help from producer Jacknife Lee, who has previously worked with Snow Patrol, R.E.M. and Taylor Swift, the lads have produced another spectacular record full of unforgettable, powerful lyrics and, this time, some interesting sounds created through experimentation with synths, sharpies and even half-filled Coca-Cola cans. For any avid fans out there, do not fear, this is simply a sign of progression and refinement, and the classic Kodaline sound is still present in their new album. It’s probably the last chance to see these guys in as intimate a setting as Sala Bikini, so don’t miss out. www.bikinibcn.com
9th. Maceo Parker L’Auditori. Lepant 150. 11th. Tricky Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 11th. Jesse Malin LA2.arq. Legalitat 60. 12th. Vanesa Martín Sant Jordi Club. Pierre de Coubertin 6. 13th. The Algorithm Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 17th. The Vaccines Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 19th. The Wave Pictures Antiga Fàbrica Estrella Damm. Rosselló 515. 20th. Enter Shikari Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 21st. Lee ‘Scratch’ Perry Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 25th. International Dub Gathering 2016 Finca Mas Brassò. Vilassar de Mar. 28th. Holydrug Couple Freedonia. Lleialtat 6.
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RETRO BEATS
CARAVAN PALACE. BARTS. PARAL·LEL 62. MARCH 2ND. Electro swing might not be a genre you come across every day, but it should certainly be present in all of our music collections. A mixture of Twenties jazz sounds and electro beats, it’s impossible to stand still with this music filling your eardrums. Parisian group Caravan Palace, composed of seven members, have got the electro swing thing down to a T, adding an element of Parisian chic to their jazzy, retro sound. Their latest album, Robot (2015), experiments with some slower electronic beats. While songs such as ‘Comics’ contain slightly more aggressive vocals that are reminiscent of Karen O (Yeah Yeah Yeahs), others, including ‘Lone Digger’, stick to their signature fast-paced, electronic sound. Electro swing is a fast-growing genre, with similar groups, such as Irish ensemble Kormac’s Big Band, making waves across the music scene. Caravan Palace create music guaranteed to put a spring in your step, and their upcoming show will get you sliding round the dancefloor like a good old-fashioned flapper.
FOR MORE MUSIC EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM
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PLAYING IT FORWARD
THE EAGLES OF DEATH METAL. SALA APOLO. NOU DE LA RAMBLA 113. MARCH 3RD. After the tragic events of November 13th at the Bataclan Theatre in Paris, The Eagles of Death Metal became a household name overnight, but sadly for the wrong reasons. Understandably, they cancelled the rest of their 2015 tour, but they have now rescheduled the remaining dates and are determined to finish the tour under the new name of ‘The Nos Amis Tour’ (The Our Friends Tour), in honour of those who lost their lives. So, who exactly are the Eagles of Death Metal? Well, it all started back in 1998. In an attempt to describe Polish band Vander, Josh Homme, frontman of Queens of the Stone Age, coined the phrase ‘the eagles of death metal’, and so the band name was born. Do not be confused by the name, however, as their style is in fact a unique brand of blues-rock, with a bit of screechy guitar, rolling drums and lots of snare. The combination of Homme (drums) and the controversial character that is Jesse Hughes (vocals, guitar) creates a bluesy monster of temptation and sin that makes you want to drink, dance and smash some glasses. Previous collaborators with the band include Dave Grohl and Jack Black, which might give you a better idea of their sound. In a recent NME interview, the duo described their newest album, Zipper Down (2015), as a combination of Antonio Banderas in Interview With The Vampire (1994) with Brad Pitt in Thelma and Louise (1991). The chance to witness that image through sound is sure to be an experience you won’t forget. www.sala-apolo.com
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WHAT’S ON
ART
AGAINST THE GRAIN
OPENINGS MNAC Antonio Gallardo Ballart’s Collection. This collection takes the viewer through the transition from Romanesque art to the Renaissance period, featuring works by some of the most famous Gothic Catalan painters, including Serra, Borrassà and Martorell. Until May 29th. Palau Nacional. Parc de Montjuïc. MUSEU PICASSO Latest Donations and Acquisitions. A presentation of selected works and documents that have joined the museum’s collection in recent years. One of the highlights is the David Douglas Duncan Collection, which includes a number of rare photographs of Picasso himself. Until May 15th. Montcada 15-23. CCCB Visit the Mirador. One of the city’s most popular cultural institutions, the CCCB, opens its doors, or rather its roof space, for one day each month to give visitors the chance to visit the rare viewing point on the fifth floor. March 6th. Montalegre 5. CLOSINGS MUSEU DEL DISSENY Distinction. A century of fashion photography. This exhibition illustrates the relevance and influence of fashion photography through the last century as it has evolved into an en vogue art form itself. Until March 27th. Plaça de les Glòries Catalanes 37. LA CAPELLA Visceral Blue. An artistic project that explores the idea of ‘feeling blue’ and how the human psyche associates emotion with colour. Until March 23rd. Hospital 56. ÀNGELS BARCELONA Jorge Ribalta: 1888. This exhibition explores the notion that the city and photography are inseparable from the ideas of modernisation and the modern age. Until March 11th. Pintor Fortuny 27. MNAC Xavier Gosé (1876-1915). An exhibition of works by one of Catalunya’s most revered 20th-century artists, coinciding with the centenary of his death. Until March 20th. Palau Nacional. Parc de Montjuïc. PRIVATE STUDIO Temple of the Last Arc. Dublin-born artist Mark Redden invites you into his private studio to view his latest exhibition, inspired by nature, symbolism and architecture. Until March 10th. Espronceda 326.
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DIRECT FROM WASHINGTON
GESTOS ICONOCLASTAS, IMÁGENES HETERODOXAS. CAIXAFORUM. FRANCESC FERRER I GUÀRDIA 6-8. MARCH 4TH-JUNE 5TH. This project attempts to deconstruct and demystify contemporary art in relation to religious iconography. It is the second project to be displayed this year at the CaixaForum as part of the gallery’s ‘Comisart’ programme, which aims to encourage young curators to gain professional experience. This project, entitled Iconoclastic gestures, Heterodox images, is by the Spanish artist Carlos Martín. Originally from Granada, Martín’s chosen collection of photographs and paintings brings together works that undermine the status of traditional icons and established figures of authority, both in the political and religious sphere. The ambivalence in iconoclastic pieces of art—images which attack political or religious beliefs—is what fascinates Martín, and the chosen pieces focus on the conflicts between traditional religious icons and the contemporary art that comments on them. His selected works unveil the hidden reverence and fascination that many of us have for shocking images, as well as the symbols that the western world have grown to blindly idolise. A visit to this exhibition takes the viewer right up to the fine line where artistic licence meets heresy.
IMPRESIONISTAS Y MODERNOS. CAIXAFORUM. FRANCESC FERRER I GUÀRDIA 6-8. MARCH 11TH-JUNE 19TH. A rare treat comes to the CaixaForum this month when part of the Phillips Collection, considered one of the best collections of modern art in the US, arrives in Barcelona. The collection’s founder, Duncan Phillips (1866-1966), had a tenacious interest in art. He wrote extensively on the subject, nurtured strong relationships with artists as both patron and collector, presented numerous exhibitions and, in 1921, opened America’s first modern art museum, the Phillips Memorial Art Gallery in Washington (later renamed the Phillips Collection). He directed the museum for the rest of his life, with the objective of encouraging visitors to appreciate new, challenging forms of artistic expression. This exhibition, Impresionistas y Modernos, which opens on March 11th at the CaixaForum, is an exploration of 200 years of art history. Divided into six sections, the exhibition takes us on a journey from Romanticism to Abstract Expressionism, via some of the most influential names in each movement, including Manet, Courbet, Sisley, Van Gogh, Degas, Picasso, Modigliani, Kandinsky, Pollock and Rothko, among others.
FOR MORE ART EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM
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MAKING AFRICA
A CONTINENT OF CONTEMPORARY DESIGN. CCCB. MONTALEGRE 5. MARCH 23RD-AUGUST 28TH. This wide-reaching exhibition aims to cast a fresh light on contemporary design in Africa. It showcases the work of over 120 artists and designers who express their ideas through different media, including sculpture, furniture, photography, architecture and animation art, among others. The exhibition focuses on art and design as a medium that both accompanies and drives political and economic change in the continent. It pays particular attention to the widespread use of mobile phones as a tool that has drastically changed both the everyday lives of normal Africans, as well as the work of artists and designers. Such devices create a platform for communication and information exchange that previously didn’t exist, allowing African designers and artists to represent and interpret their continent from a different perspective. Making Africa also casts a glance back at the artists of the postcolonial era; Sixties photographers, such as Seydou Keita and Malick SidibÊ, whose work went beyond wars and catastrophes, to reveal a continent that demonstrated growing self-confidence, something that has influenced the younger generation. www.cccb.org
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WHAT’S ON
MISC. FOOD FOR THOUGHT
DINNERS THAT MATTER. VARIOUS RESTAURANTS. MARCH 10TH. Help out your local community while indulging in a delicious meal at one of several restaurants participating in ‘Dinners that Matter’, a charity event that sees affiliated restaurants donating 25 percent of their profits for the night to a local social project. In 2015, the project involved 20 restaurants and raised €22,000; this year, organisers are hoping to increase that number to 40 restaurants. The variety is wide and aims to appeal to all tastes, from traditional dishes with a higher price tag to straightforward bites in a fun bar atmosphere. Dinners that Matter takes place four times throughout the year, and the profits from each event go to a different charity. The proceeds from the March 10th event will go to ASPASIM, a charity that works with people with severe disabilities. Visit dinnersthatmatter.org for a full list of participating restaurants.
SHORT SUBJECTS
18TH MECAL FESTIVAL INTERNACIONAL DE CURTMETRATGES I ANIMACIÓ. VARIOUS LOCATIONS. MARCH 10TH-APRIL 3RD. Are you a film fanatic? Mecal, the International Short Film and Animation Festival of Barcelona, celebrates its 18th edition this year as it screens over 350 short films from 38 different countries. Running from March 10th until April 3rd, audience members can vote to help decide the winning titles from each of the four competing categories: international, documentary, animation and oblique. Considered one of the most prestigious festivals of its kind in Europe, winners from each category are automatically longlisted for a Goya Award—the Spanish Oscars. The festival also offers visitors the unique opportunity to learn from industry professionals by providing a series of workshops and masterclasses, including sessions on animation, crowdfunding and audiovisual. The event—which recognises inspiring, inventive and distinctive filmmaking—will take place at selected venues across the city, such as the CCCB, the MACBA and the Centre Arts Santa Mònica. www.mecalbcn.org
GOOSEBUMPS GUARANTEED
WRITTEN ON SKIN. GRAN TEATRE DEL LICEU. LA RAMBLA 51-59. MARCH 16TH. Written on Skin is a three-part opera by British composer George Benjamin and librettist Martin Crimp. Having premiered at the Aix-en-Provence Festival in 2012, the story retells a 13th-century southern French ballad. The Protector—a ruthless landowner—commissions the Boy to celebrate his life and the achievements of his family in an extravagant illuminated book. As the Boy painstakingly creates his manuscript, he attracts the attentions of the Protector’s much younger wife, Agnès. His imagery empowers her and she begins to reject her role as the childish property of her husband. The Protector’s angry dismay at his wife’s increasing independence leads to a compelling, yet gruesome finale. On March 16th, Benjamin returns to conducting responsibilities at the Gran Teatre del Liceu for the show’s debut performance in Spain. His score promises richly expressive vocal lines and delicately lucid instrumental colouring, used to compliment collaborator Crimp’s dramatic text, which ultimately guarantees a high degree of theatrical tension running throughout. Awarded five stars by both The Guardian and The Telegraph for its 2013 run at the Royal Opera House in London, the original English-speaking cast from this contemporary and much-acclaimed opera now come to Barcelona to tell a love story etched in blood. www.liceubarcelona.cat
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CHINESE WHISPERS
SHEN YUN. GRAN TEATRE DEL LICEU. LAS RAMBLAS 51-59. MARCH 17TH AND 18TH. Meaning ‘the beauty of divine beings dancing’, Shen Yun is the world’s biggest and most esteemed classical Chinese dance and music company. Founded in New York in 2006, it brings the rigorous, athletic art form of Chinese dance to the stage, accompanied by a live symphony orchestra. Ablaze with stunning, colourful costumes and an animated backdrop, the group performs story-based dances that transport you back to the Middle Kingdom—through the Ancient Chinese civilisation with all its uplifting legends and inspired modern heroic tales. But behind this vibrant spectacle lies a darker, more deliberate meaning. The company’s publicity emphasises that ‘Shen Yun cannot be seen in China today, where traditional culture has been nearly lost’. Their aim is to revive 5,000 years of Chinese culture, which has been suppressed since the beginning of the Communist era. The company’s founders are practitioners of Falun Gong, which is a moral, spiritual practice centred on ‘Truthfulness, Compassion and Forbearance’. Seen as heretical and a threat to the atheist beliefs of the Chinese Communist Party, Shen Yun’s performances continually seek to bring the culturally rich history and divine legends of China to an international audience, determined to share such a treasure with the world and to defy the heavy censorship imposed in China today. www.shenyunperformingarts.org/barcelona
FOR MORE EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM
2/24/16 11:14 AM
RUN ALL NIGHT
MIDNIGHT MUSIC RUN. BARCELONA CITY CENTRE. MARCH 11TH. Friday night and the lights are low...No, it’s not another ABBA tribute, although the endorphins and momentum of the Midnight Music Run will get you in the mood for dancing on Friday 11th. The Midnight Runners are a group of fitness enthusiasts who are bringing their moonlit madness to Barcelona. The aim is simple: to combine a road race with music-based workouts, allowing you to get fit and explore the city like never before. Based in London, this organisation has taken its Midnight Music Runs international, visiting Edinburgh, Switzerland, and even as far away as Sydney, Australia. This month, they’re inviting you to explore the city’s streets on a nocturnal, 10 kilometre run. The course will pass by famous sights and include frequent breaks along the way. Don’t, however, be fooled by the word ‘breaks’—you won’t be enjoying an orange segment and a sit down. These intervals are designed to introduce exercises from a wide range of disciplines, such as circuit training and pilates, adding a dynamic element to the run. All this is accompanied by body-pumping music that will spur you on to the finish line. This event is free, and the fun continues post-run as you can party with fellow participants after midnight. So get ready, get set...run!
Photos by Tanya Raab
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10 DINNERS THAT MATTER Dine out tonight in a participating restaurant, and part of your bill will be donated to the Fundació
SUITE FESTIVAL This month, three artists perform. Johnny Hallyday (8th), Antonio Orozco (12th) & Emir
GÖTTERDÄMMERUNG Wagner’s last of four music dramas, ‘The Twilight of the Gods’. Various times. Gran Teatre del
MUTEK [ES] A programme of audiovisual pieces by local group Afloat and the international show Trialogue. 8.30pm. BARTS. Paral·lel 62.
OPIUM SPRINGFEST A three-night festival of international dance music and artists. Last year’s edition starred Nicky Romero. Opium Barcelona. Marítim Barceloneta 34. 3rd-5th.
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THURSDAY
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CARAVAN PALACE An unlikely combination of electro and swing makes this French band stand out from the crowd. 9pm. BARTS. Paral·lel 62.
WE SPOKE This Anglo-Swiss group don’t perform from a conventional score. 8.30pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.
WHEN THE STONES SPEAK An archaeological exhibition exploring prehistoric structures, monuments and burial chambers. Museu d'Arqueologia. Pg de Santa Madrona 39-41. Until 28th.
CABARET MALDITO The Circus of Horrors presents a provocative, lustful show. Various times. Passeig de Joan de Borbó. Until 13th.
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TUESDAY
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MELODY GARDOT (21st)
MONDAY
THE BIG COMEDY EVENT (4th)
WHAT'S ON MARCH 2016
GUINNESS LAUGHTER LOUNGE: JOHN COLLEARY A pre-Paddy’s Day event to get you giggling. 10.30pm. The
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WOMEN ONLY Five interwoven stories about women in prison during the Civil War. 9pm. Teatre-Auditori Sant Cugat. Plaça de Victòria dels Àngels 1.
BIG COMEDY March madness from Barcelona Improv Group, a tour de force of improvised genius. 8.30pm. Tinta Roja. Creu dels Molers 17.
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FRIDAY
VOOOOX! A concert for kids with four singers taking the audience through different times and spaces. Various times. L’Auditori. Lepant 150. 6th & 12th.
13 CAMBUYÓN A percussive and urban dance performance nominated for a Bessies in 2015. Various times.
12 JAMES BAY See the singer-songwriter whose famous hit, ‘Hold Back The River’, has gone platinum. 9.30pm.
INTERNATIONAL OPEN MIC Clowns, poets, contortionists and more at this talent show that’s sure to make for a fun fiesta. 8pm. Almazen. Guifré 9.
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SUNDAY
BARCELONA BEER FESTIVAL The fifth edition of this three-day beer extravaganza, with over 300 craft beers and more. Museu Marítim de Barcelona. 4th-6th.
OAFRICA CHARITY CONCERT Live music, food and drink in aid of the charity organisation 'Keeping Children in Families'. 6pm. OneOcean Club. Moll de la Barceloneta 1.
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SATURDAY
www.barcelona-metropolitan.com
For more information visit our website
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2/24/16 11:49 AM
BLUES JAM SESSION Led by Hernan “El Chino” Senra. 10.30pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.
LATEST DONATIONS AND ACQUISITIONS A selection of works and documents that have joined the collection in recent years. Museu Picasso. Montcada 15-23. Until May 15th.
EASTER MONDAY
FOLLOW THE THREAD As a seamstress for Balenciaga who had a special bond with the city of Barcelona, this exhibition delves into Pilar Ayarza’s world of high fashion. Fundació Setba. Plaça Reial 2. Until April 23rd.
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JOHN COLLEARY (11th)
SAPUCAY Movement and image combine in this performance that tells the story of three fearless sisters. 9pm. Hiroshima Theatre. Vila i Vilà 67. Cent 286. 30th & 31st.
XAVIER COLL The guitar maestro performs a range of pieces, including works by L de Narváez. 9pm. Basilica Santa Maria del Pi. Pl. del Pi 7.
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FESTIVAL CLAN The popular TV characters from Los Lunnis bring the fun at this interactive fiesta. Various times. BARTS. Paral·lel 62. 22nd-28th.
EVERY PHOTOGRAPH IS AN ENIGMA Exhibition curated by French photography historian, Michel Frizot. Foto Colectania. Julián Romea 6. Opens March 4th.
ACTION! Discover all the wonderful curiosities of Gaudí's masterpiece in this fun theatrical visit. Casa Batlló. Passeig de Gràcia 43.
MELODY GARDOT The Grammy-nominated singer from Philadelphia gives a soulful performance as part of the Mil·leni Festival. 9pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.
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TOMMY EMMANUEL The Grammy-nominated Australian guitarist brings his world famous ‘fingerstyle’ playing to Barcelona. 9pm. BARTS. Paral·lel 62.
ÓPERA EN PALACIO Opera meets flamenco at this marvellous venue, reflecting the show's beauty and grace.11pm. Espai Barroc. Montcada 20.
VALER BARNA SABADUS AND CONCERTO KÖLN British newspaper The Guardian described this Romanian countertenor as “formidable". 8.30pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.
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TOMMY EMMANUEL (16th)
SHEN YUN Ancient Chinese legends come to life with technological innovation. 9pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59. 17th & 18th.
THE VACCINES The indie-rock band from West London claimed their recent album, English Graffiti (2015), is ‘genre defining’. 9pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.
WRITTEN ON SKIN An opera based on a 12thcentury legend, with a gruesome ending. 8pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.
SIR JOHN ELIOT GARDINER The Monteverdi Choir perform a mesmerising rendition of Bach’s 'St Matthew’s Passion'. 8.30pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.
MECAL It’s the 18th edition of this short and animation film festival. Various times and venues. March 10th-April 3rd.
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BEER FESTIVAL (4th-6th)
SER Inspired by the circus, this project aims to capture identity in transformation. Casa Elizalde. València 302. Until April 11th.
SCOTTISH SYMPHONY A programme of music performed by Orquestra de Cambra de Munic. 8.30pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.
CABARET MALDITO (until 13th)
DINNERS THAT MATTER Dine out tonight in a participating restaurant, and part of your bill will be donated to the Fundació ASPASIM. dinnersthatmatter.org
SUITE FESTIVAL This month, three artists perform. Johnny Hallyday (8th), Antonio Orozco (12th) & Emir Kusturica (21st). 9pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.
GÖTTERDÄMMERUNG Wagner’s last of four music dramas, ‘The Twilight of the Gods’. Various times. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59. 3rd, 7th, 11th, 14th & 19th. ALTERED REALITIES An exhibition of paintings based on subconsciousness in dreamlike scenes. Casa Elizalde. València 302. Opens March 8th.
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PINTAMÚSICA A children's workshop that combines music and painting, inspired by the work of Joan Miró. Various times. CCCB. Montalegre 5. 5th, 12th, 13th, 19th & 20th.
20 ENTER SHIKARI Often singing political lyrics, these rockers are going to make sure their voices are heard. 9.30pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. BRUNCH ELECTRONIK Piknic Electronik's little brother returns to liven up Sunday afternoons. 12pm. Poble Espanyol. 6th & 20th.
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MINI FESTIVAL It’s the 21st edition of this music festival that celebrates independent talent into the early hours of the morning. 5pm. La Capsa. Pare Andreu de Palma 5.
19 VANESA MARTÍN This Spanish pop-rock singer has a wide fan base in both Spain and Latin America. 9pm. Sant Jordi Club. Passeig Olímpic 5-7. GRUPO COMPAY SEGUNDO A concert for the late, great musician who composed the legendary ‘Chan Chan’ track on the Buena Vista Social Club album. 9pm. BARTS. Paral·lel 62.
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MIDNIGHT MUSIC RUN The London Midnight Runners take their epic music-based workout to Barcelona. 10pm. Barcelona city centre.
18 MARION HARPER The 19-year-old singer presents her debut album, Cotton Candy (2015). 11.30pm. Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 73 REASONS TO LEAVE YOU Laugh, smile and cry at this Catalan musical as it reevaluates the definition of ‘happily ever after'. 9pm. Teatre-Auditori Sant Cugat. Plaça de Victòria dels Àngels 1.
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THE VACCINES (17th)
VIA CRUCIS The Stations of the Cross depicting Jesus Christ on the day of his crucifixion. 8pm. Santa Maria del Remei. Plaça de la Concòrdia 1.
GOOD FRIDAY
RAMÓN LSD A Spanish comedy stand-up show exploring 100 ways to be an idiot in Barcelona. 6.30pm. Cafe-Teatre Llantiol. Riereta 7.
THE BIG COMEDY EVENT
BRYAN ADAMS The Grammy-award winner brings his Canadian rock to Barcelona. 9.30pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.
WINE TASTING COURSE Improve your wine knowledge with this one-day wine tasting course. 9.30am. Bruc 136. www. winecoursesbcn.com
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CLASSICAL MUSIC AT MEAM Fine art and classical music come together for a sophisticated night at the museum. 5pm. MEAM. Barra de Ferro 5.
BIG MAMA MONTSE & TOTA An unlikely pairing of musicians brings the best of jazz to Barcelona's off-the-radar jazz scene. 10.30pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.
CAMBUYÓN A percussive and urban dance performance nominated for a Bessies in 2015. Various times. BARTS. Paral·lel 62. 11th-13th.
JAMES BAY See the singer-songwriter whose famous hit, ‘Hold Back The River’, has gone platinum. 9.30pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.
GUINNESS LAUGHTER LOUNGE: JOHN COLLEARY A pre-Paddy’s Day event to get you giggling. 10.30pm. The Shamrock bar. Tallers 72.
GIAN MARCO This musician has gained the hat-trick of music by winning the Latin Grammy for 'Best SingerSongwriter' three times. 8pm. Sant Jordi Club. Pg Olímpic 5-7.
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2/24/16 10:38 AM
Connecting Communities
“
BARCELONA COMES TOGETHER IN EUROPE’S GREATEST REFUGEE CRISIS SINCE WORLD WAR TWO. BY SAM MEDNICK
CalAid Barcelona volunteers Sam Mednick, Anna Oje, Sandy Reay and Hettie Daniel (left to right)
They have no humanity,” said Nassir Maser, slumping into a plastic chair, as he explained what brought him to Pikpa; one of several refugee camps on the Greek island of Lesbos. “I saw smugglers beat women and children on the way over,” he sighed. “They’re awful people.” A makeshift refuge for the island’s most vulnerable arrivals, Pikpa takes in women, children, injured people and ‘sea-break’ victims—those who’ve lost loved ones during the perilous crossing from Turkey. Maser came to the camp to support his sister, who two weeks earlier had watched two of her sons, as well as her husband, fall overboard and drown, leaving her alone with her 10-year-old daughter and baby. He hadn’t planned on making the journey this soon, but when he got the call he came as soon as he could. “It was too dangerous to bring my family by sea,” he said, explaining that he left his three daughters and wife back in Iraq. “I wasn’t afraid because I was alone and I can swim, but if you have your family with you, it must be terrifying.” Maser plans on sending for them once he’s settled, hopefully in Ireland. Maser’s story is all too common, especially amongst those staying at Pikpa. During the worst ‘sea-break peak’ in 2015, the camp housed over 50 families, all of whom had lost people during the extremely cold and dangerous three-hour journey from Turkey’s shores. Pikpa, which used to be a summer camp for disabled children, now stands as testament to the good will of humanity. Started by a team of locals in 2012, the camp is run entirely by volunteers from all over the world. With the capacity to house around 200 people, Pikpa is somewhat of an oasis on an island that has now become the receiving centre for hundreds of thousands of Syrian, Iraqi and Afghan refugees, escaping the brutal realities of their homelands. It’s unique to Lesbos in that it focuses on longer-term stays with an emphasis on sustainability. “There is more of a community feel here,” said Sandy Reay, CalAid Barcelona’s person on the ground. “Pikpa attracts the right people and I feel
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like the kind of volunteers that need to be here are drawn in.” Volunteers like Sandy Reay—Barcelona business owner, successful producer and long-time humanitarian, who chose Pikpa as her partner in Lesbos, and who recently donated a large shipment of aid, for which she received contributions from people all across Spain. A British native and Catalan resident of 10 years, Reay’s no stranger when it comes to humanitarian work. Having run her own charities in South Africa, the 42-year-old said it was time to do something about the refugee crisis. “Like so many people, I knew that there’d been a lot going on over the years. And after seeing pictures of dead kids and dead bodies, I said to myself, ‘Right [we] definitely have to do something because this is insane’.” Four months later, in December 2015, she had arranged for a 35-tonne, 45-foot-long container, filled with 350 boxes of clothing, hygiene products, tools and materials, to be donated to Pikpa Camp and distributed around the island. Having partnered with CalAid UK (www.calaid.co.uk), a grassroots organisation based in England, Reay created and spearheaded the newly formed CalAid Barcelona and, together with three other volunteers, flew to Lesbos in order to receive, organise and distribute the shipment. “The response from the city and around the country was amazing,” said Reay, recalling how CalAid Barcelona raised €4,500 in less than a month and how donations trickled in from as far away as Cádiz. With over 100 people contacting her daily
during the first week, Reay said she initially had to use her own office to store everything until she could find another space. Now, the container that took a country to put together, sits at the edge of Pikpa and is being used as a storage space for clothes and other items. The short-term goal is to add another container and turn them both into a rooftop terrace for the camp’s residents to enjoy; an idea that has been well received. “I’m so grateful to people who have left their own families and kids to come and help us,” said Maser as he admires the new container. And when it comes to help, Reay sees this as only the beginning. She is currently making trips back and forth between Barcelona and Lesbos, helping to raise money for a dome, which will be used at Pikpa for workshops and trainings. She has also helped to organise a group of volunteers to assist with a warehouse on the island, and she’s partnered with the World Wide Tribe (www.theworldwidetribe. com), a grassroots organisation with projects around the world who have taken an interest in Pikpa. The aim, said Reay, is to continue fostering relationships with Pikpa and other camps on the island in order to make things as sustainable and efficient as possible. “This whole experience, especially being here, it changes you in the sense that you think differently about things,” she reflected. “It puts things into perspective and makes me want to continue even more. Before I came out [to Lesbos], I was thinking, ‘Oh maybe this might be it, I’ll wrap it up.’ Having been here, I realise that it’s only the beginning. I couldn’t stop now."
HOW TO GET INVOLVED Pikpa: www.lesvossolidarity.org Refugees Aid: www.refugeesaid.eu World Wide Tribe: www.theworldwidetribe.com If you want to volunteer in Lesbos, you can find everything you need to know about it here: www.lesvosvolunteers.com/volunteering There are several projects on the go in Pikpa and around the island. You can donate to a specific initiative or in general. For more information contact Sandy: sandyreay@mac.com
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Under the
INFLUENCE FOREIGN ARTISTS INSPIRED BY BARCELONA. TEXT BY CLARE SHEPPARD.
I
Sally Marks
t’s the start of the 20th century and masterly minds amble along the city’s shadowy passages. They emerge from colour-drenched studios of stroked canvases, inked papers and clayed aprons to convene in Els Quatre Cats and bellow thoughts on their day’s enterprise. This is the Barcelona of the Modernista movement, where ideas that collide in public squares and cafes are turned into lasting monuments in private workshops. Skip forward less than half a century and Franco’s militia usurp the streets, prohibiting dissenting ideas and vernacular freedom. Great minds retreat to their homes and dare in hushed tones to think, to create. In 1975, when democracy gives the streets back to the people, private doors slowly begin to open and creation once again spills forth, its flow constant and consistent—the strength of the torrent encouraged by the dammed-up impulses. Soon, word of Barcelona as a vibrant artistic hub spreads and the names on the canon of Catalan artistry begin to include not only natives, but
others with strange, foreign names, including Tóibín, Enard, Scully and Yamamoto. Is it the liberal aftermath of repressive political tides that has led to Barcelona attracting scores of foreign creative artists? Or perhaps its attractive geographical positioning, its suave profile, its confident swagger? What is it about Barcelona— described by Joan Maragall as ‘boastful, treacherous and vulgar’—that leads it to be the great enchantress for so many creatives past and present? I spoke to some foreign artists living in Barcelona to find out what the draw is. OUTDOOR LIVING Irish writer, Colm Tóibín, came to Barcelona on the eve of Franco’s death when “the public realm was intolerable and indoor space was rich.” During his three-year stint in the city, Tóibín witnessed the fervent reoccupation of the public space: parties, protests, sardana dancing and the Catalan language. In fact, Tóibín was enjoying the early democratisation of the country so much that he had to leave in order to write, but
the lingering memory of Barcelona and regular visits to the area have informed some of his seminal work, including his early novels Homage to Barcelona (1990) and The South (1990). The dynamic occupation of the urban space has also left its impression on the artists I interviewed. Mina Hamada, an American-born, Japaneseraised artist, said of her first encounter with the city, “There were so many people on the street chatting, walking, sunbathing, doing nothing— but people were outside.” Sally Marks, an English artist living in Barcelona, initially arrived in 1992 as an art student and, like Hamada, was struck by the murmur of life outdoors. “My initial impressions were smells of pan cigarettes and sounds of gas bottle deliveries, of people being outside, not inside,” said Marks. MEDITERRANEAN LIGHT Tóibín has referred to the city of Barcelona and the colours of the Mediterranean as “pure excitement”. The unique light and colours warming the cityscape have also attracted my interviewees. “There are such amazing shafts of light creating pyramids on Gothic streets,” observes Marks. “The light of Barcelona has influenced my work; coming across surprising corners where you are suddenly blinded.”
¨Harunohi¨, Acrylic on canvas 100×81cm 2015. Mina Hamada
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Marks stresses that her art, however, is not observational, but “reacting to where I am in some sense because it’s connected to a feeling, a feeling that can reappear anywhere”. The attraction and importance of the particular light of Barcelona is also remarked on by English photographer Danny Fernandez. “The city has a beautiful quality of light flowing through it, making it an ideal location for photographers,” said Fernandez. It seems that there is a deep connection between the vibrant Barcelona, as perceived by Hamada, and her joyous, exuberant work, “Here in Barcelona I found the colours of happiness. Whilst immersed in sun, a good atmosphere and the overall freedom of the city, many colours come to my creations.” Marks
Danny Fernandez
of the ocean was the other side of the world.” It was in Barcelona where Iriarte learned the leatherwork trade and, not least because of the city’s appeal to foreigners, her designer leather goods grew to an international level.
Judy Kaufmann
ROOTED IN THE LOCAL In an article for El País, the late renowned art critic Robert Hughes commented that “all great art is rooted in the local”. German illustrator, Judy Kaufmann, affirmed that it is this sense of the local that she has found in Barcelona which has influenced her work. “When I came to Barcelona, I started drawing a lot of small cities and neighbourhoods. I suppose it was the first time, at 23 years old, that I felt I belonged to a community; a place where you know your neighbours and, in a subconscious way, I was drawing buildings, cars, animals and playgrounds.” Buenos Aires native and designer Carolina Iriarte also credits the familiarity of Barcelona with having played a part in her setting up base here. “Coming from a very large city, where I had to get around on trains and buses, Barcelona seemed small and easy. Getting around mainly on foot and bicycle through the Born, the Barri Gòtic and the Raval gives me the impression of living on a theatre set.” Barcelona’s cosmopolitanism was also a huge draw for Iriarte. “When I first arrived in 2004, I was fascinated that there were people from everywhere. It made me feel that the other side
THE TOURIST PLAGUE As history shows, the changing tides of city policy and the success of its self-promotion can undermine some of the features upon which that success was built, having a drastic effect on creative endeavour. In recent years, artists—such as internationally acclaimed Irish painter Sean Scully—have bemoaned the ‘tourist plague’ that has engulfed Barcelona as detrimental to the city’s unique identity. After just five years in Barcelona, Fernandez has also noticed the negative influence of tourism on the city. “The replacement of old family-run cafes, bars and shops with generic and ugly souvenir shops is very saddening. I think Barcelona is losing its identity.” This claim is reiterated by Kaufmann, “I don’t know by how much the number of
visitors to the city has increased in recent years, but sometimes it’s ridiculous.” Change, however, is embraced by Iriarte and Hamada. For Iriarte, Barcelona’s dynamism makes it “a very stimulating place to live and work,” while Hamada is positively resolute about the city’s evolution. “It may be that Barcelona is changing, but I’m also changing together with the city. My work is progressing and I try to improve it, just as people in Barcelona want to improve the city. I hope we can go along the same path.” We can only hope that these great creative minds will not, once again, be driven from the public domain—this time by the perceived tyranny of tourism. They may find it uncongenial, but I doubt many will be willing to abandon the light, the colour and the vibrancy, which still embellish the cityscape and have proven such an attraction for them. Nor will they fail to find and establish, away from tourist haunts perhaps, a sense of rootedness, of the local and familiar which informs so much of who they are and what they do.
MORE INFO. MINA HAMADA was born in Louisiana and grew up in Tokyo, studying Design and Illustration at the Sokei Academy of Fine Art & Design. As an artist, she specialises in painting, illustration and murals. Colour, rhythm and improvisation characterise the work of this Japanese artist, who has lived in Barcelona since 2009. www. cargocollective.com/minahamada JUDY KAUFMANN is a Barcelona-based illustrator who has attracted an international clientele, including Waitrose and Levi’s, through her fresh and colourful style. She also collaborates with the University of Barcelona as a creative instructor for marketing students. www.judykaufmann.com DANNY FERNANDEZ is a creative photographer based in Barcelona. Specialising in portrait, wedding and conceptual photography, his passion lies in “recording fleeting moments of raw emotion”. Currently, he has an exhibition at La Clandestina (Baixada de Viladecols 2), called ‘India: Through pictures and poems’. www. dannyfernandez.co.uk SALLY MARKS has been living in Barcelona sporadically since 2002. She takes a keen interest in art therapy, having worked on art projects uniting African refugees and Hong Kong residents. She currently volunteers at Art Solidari, where she delivers workshops. She will exhibit at Olivart Gallery next year. CAROLINA IRIARTE www.iriarteiriarte.com
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Name: Carmen Age: 25 From: Romania Profession: Student Blouse: Zara Hat: Vintage Shoes: Mango Jacket: Zara
Name: Miguel Age: 20 From: Spain Profession: Student Jumper: Urban Outfitters Trousers: Zara Jacket: Replay Shoes: Nike
Name: Anastasia Age: 24 From: Russia Profession: Makeup Artist Jacket: Vintage Jeans: H&M Shoes: Casanovas
GET THE LOOK URBAN OUTFITTERS JUMPER €19
ASOS BLAZER €45 LEVI’S JACKET €45
DOMINA GLASSES €135 ZARA HAT €22.95 CASANOVAS SHOES €90.50
NIKE TRAINERS €59
ZARA PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA 16. URBAN OUTFITTERS PLAÇA DE CATALUNYA 4. CASANOVA PROVENÇA 264. LEVIS CARRER DE LA CUCURULLA 2. NIKE LA RAMBLA 120.
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TRAVEL
Let it BURN A QUICK GUIDE TO VALENCIA’S MOST IMPORTANT ANNUAL FESTIVAL, LAS FALLAS. TEXT BY ROSALIND BOND.
V
alencia often gets short shrift from people who see it as Barcelona’s inferior neighbour. After all, why would someone want to visit Valencia when they have Barcelona on their doorstep? Luckily, the two million international visitors that this vibrant city receives each year seem to disagree. It was founded by the Romans in 138 BC and its name comes from the Latin for ‘valour’, therefore making its ancient centre an intriguing maze of narrow alleyways and a mishmash of buildings dating from Roman and Arabic times. Valencia has a population of around 800,000, over 55,000 of which are students, and an energetic atmosphere that bubbles up in the bars and out onto the streets. A FESTIVAL OF FIRE
Each year from March 15th-19th, the whole of Valencia is set ablaze with a festival as mad as it is fun and as dangerous as it is impressive. Las Fallas is the main event in the Valencian calendar and revolves around the construction and eventual destruction of giant papier mâché effigies (ninots) depicting public figures and scenarios from the preceding year. The festival traces its origins back to 1497. Back then, carpenters would spend long hours in their workshops, and during the short winter days they would light oil lamps hung from wooden structures. With the arrival of the spring equinox, the lamps and their structures were no longer necessary, so in an act of celebration at the impending longer days, the whole lot
was set alight. The ritual was dedicated to Saint Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters, whose feast day falls on March 19th. From then on, people began designing structures that bore humourous similarities to characters from the neighbourhood and, in the 18th century, these structures became satirical gestures relating to well-known public figures and events. Today, Las Fallas are a highly coordinated event involving organising committees, known as comissions falleras, who work throughout the year to create both child and adult-themed ninots. La Plantà
Preparations go on throughout the year, and on March 5th the completed ninots are received at the modern ‘City of Arts and Sciences’ (Ciutat de les arts y les ciències) and displayed in the ‘Exposición del ninot’ until the 15th, giving visitors a chance to admire the works of art and vote for one of them to be pardoned from the flames. March 15th marks the official start of the festival and sees the closing of the exhibition. The giant statues are then set up at key points throughout the city to await their impending executions. This ceremony is known as La Plantà, and it takes place at 8am for the children’s ninots and later in the afternoon for the adult versions. La Mascletà
With the statues safely in place, La Mascletà can begin. Every day throughout the festival, fireworks are strung up in complex patterns and are set off at 2pm in each neighbourhood. The display ends with the terremoto (the earthquake), when hundreds of firecrackers explode simultaneously releasing multicoloured smoke. The main event is the municipal mascletà in the Plaça de l’Ajuntament, in which rival pyrotechnicians compete for the honour of providing the final display of the festival on March 19th. La Despertà
From March 16th-19th, each day starts at 8am with La Despertà (wake-up call). The beeping of your alarm clock will feel positively soothing after you have been woken up Valencia-style. Brass bands invade the neighbourhood and march through the streets accompanied by members of the festival committees, who beseige the sleeping barrio with firecrackers.
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L’Ofrena Floral
With all the explosions and excitement, it’s easy to forget the religious side to the celebration, which is embodied in L’Ofrena Floral (the floral offering). From 3.30pm until 1am on both the 17th and 18th, falleros (those belonging to a comissió fallera) from every corner of the region bring an offering of flowers to a giant structure depicting Valencia’s patron Virgin, Our Lady of the Forsaken. The falleros wear traditional costumes and dance to the music of their local bands as they wind their way through Carrer de Sant Vicent Màtir, Carrer de la Pau, Plaça de la Reina and, finally, Plaça de la Verge to gift their perfumed offering. As each group makes their contribution, the flowers are attached to the structure in the correct place, and the end result is a massive floral monument to the virgin. Las Verbenas
Night comes, and each committee organises a street party known as a verbena that welcomes both locals and visitors alike in a hedonistic celebration involving music, dancing and lots of drinking. Streets are illuminated for the occasion with artistic streetlight displays and often compete to be named the best decorated street; the Ruzafa district is especially attractive. Try agua de Valencia; a potent concoction of cava, orange juice, sugar and spirits invented in the Twenties. Each night during the festival, there is a staggering firework display along Passeig de l’Albereda near Pont de les Flors at 1.30am. It becomes more extravagant as the festival progresses, culminating on the Nit de Foc (March 18th) with a spectacle of pyrotechnic brilliance. This ‘fire night’ is traditionally the biggest party night and this year falls on a Friday, meaning there’s nothing to stop the fun.
MUST SEE, MUST DO A round-up of what to see and do in Valencia 1. MERCAT CENTRAL Situated in the Plaça del Mercat, this ornate art nouveau structure built in 1928 houses one of Europe’s oldest fresh produce markets. 2. LA LLOTJA DE LA SEDA Opposite the Mercat Central is Valencia’s former silk exchange, a gothic building resembling a medieval castle that was completed in 1548. A demonstration of Valencia’s key role in the silk trade and its mercantile prowess. 3. TORRES DE SERRANO Completed in 1398, the Torres dels Serrans are one of 12 former city gates of which only the Torres dels Serrans and the Torres de Quart survive. The towers represent the Valencian gothic style and are among only a few remnants of the defensive city wall. 4. PLAÇA DE LA VERGE The Plaça de la Verge has been a central part of public life since the Roman times when it was the forum and it continues to be an important public space. The majestic square houses three of Valencia’s most iconic buildings: the Basilica de la Virgen de los Desamparados, the cathedral and the Palau de la Generalitat. 5. PLAÇA DE L’AJUNTAMENT The resplendent, neoclassical City Hall (Ajuntament) building and the Central Post Office dominate the Plaça de l’Ajuntament. In the centre a lavish fountain sprays majestically, illuminated by colourful lights at night. 6. CITY OF ARTS AND SCIENCES The Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències is a giant UFOlike building that touched down in 1998. Designed by architects Santiago Calatrava and Félix Candela, this avant-garde structure is one of Europe’s most modern and cutting-edge centres and is dedicated to cultural and scientific exhibitions. 7. RIVERBED GARDEN From the city centre, the Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències can be reached via a walk along the former riverbed of the river Turia. After a catastrophic flood in 1957, the river was rerouted and the riverbed redesigned to create an innovative urban green space that winds its way through the city. The adventure playground in the shape of a giant reclining Gulliver is popular with kids.
La Cremà
As the five-day festival continues, the intensity is cranked up as we hurtle towards the explosive climax. At 7pm on March 19th, the cabalgata del fuego (procession of fire) snakes through the city starting on Carrer de Russafa and finishing at the Porta de la Mar. Fire embodies the spirit of the festival and the procession brings together traditions from around the world that have fire at their core. This is a noisy parade involving music, costumes, street performances and, of course, gunpowder. The procession winds its way menacingly through the streets as the moment approaches for the ninots to face their fate. Shortly before midnight, the statues are sacrificed to the flames in a ceremony called La Cremà (the burning). The streetlights are turned off, the fire brigade is on hand and, having been stuffed full of fireworks, the structures are set ablaze. The noise is a pounding cacophony that strikes you to the core. Your ears will be ringing, the smell of smoke will linger in your nostrils for days after, and on the morning after the La Cremà you’ll understand the ‘valour’ part of the name Valencia; you need a strong nerve to survive the night in this city.
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8. ORXATA Valencia is the home of orxata, a milky drink made from tiger nuts and accompanied by fartons—sponge fingers that can be dipped in the orxata. Orxaterias are easy to find throughout Valencia and are a delicious way to refuel during a day’s partying. 9. PAELLA VALENCIANA Authentic paella valenciana doesn’t contain seafood; it is made with chicken, rabbit, snails (these are often optional) and vegetables. While in the birthplace of Spain’s national dish, head to La Utielana (Plaça Picadero Dos Aguas 3) and try it for yourself. For good seafood, skip the seafront restaurants and head to the old fisherman’s quarter, Carrer José Benlliure and the surrounding streets are full of good tapas restaurants including Casa Montaña, one of the oldest restaurants in Valencia. GETTING THERE BY CAR: 3.5-4 hours BY TRAIN: from Barcelona Sants to Valencia Joaquin Sorolla. 3-4 hours. BY BUS: from Estació d’Autobusos de Barcelona Nord to Valencia Bus Station. 4 hours 40 minutes. EATING AND DRINKING Carrer dels Cavallars: Lively street with bars and restaurants Plaça del Negret: Quaint square for a coffee or beer Carrer José Benlliure: Seafood in the old fisherman’s quarter
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RESTAURANT REVIEW
CAFÈ GODOT MEDITERRANEAN FARE SERVED DAY AND NIGHT IN THE HEART OF GRÀCIA. BY SAM ZUCKER.
A
fter enjoying perhaps the best ever duck confit and lentils with dijon mustard and spinach, I was looking for any excuse to head back to Cafè Godot in Gràcia to sample this modern Mediterranean restaurant’s daytime offerings. Located just off the busy Plaça de la Vila de Gràcia, the restaurant couldn’t be more central. Day and night, the dining room is always bustling and serves as an equally ideal place for Saturday brunches, weekday lunches and romantic evening meals (first date potential, I’d say). I have mixed feelings about the Broadway-esque marquee posters tacked to the walls and announcing popular menu items, and it did seem a bit dark inside for 3pm on a sunny Saturday afternoon; but one thing is for certain—the food is absolutely top notch. There are several diverse menus at Cafè Godot, and the food here traverses many borders, with clear Spanish, Catalan, Italian, French, Asian, Middle Eastern and North African influences running throughout. However, this isn’t to say that the menu felt disjointed in any way. On the contrary, the style and presentation of the dishes, in accordance with the whole ‘New Mediterranean’ vibe, are well thought out and executed, and they successfully meet the standards of mass appeal. We arrived for brunch, but I wasn’t in the mood for eggs. Being a veteran short-order breakfast cook myself, I rarely order eggs at restaurants. Instead, I was unexpectedly drawn to a favourite from my American upbringing: the Chicken Club Sandwich. The chatty women to the right of us were happily downing a tray of briny French oysters with ginger vinaigrette, while the couple to the left were lingering over a salad of cured duck breast with haricot verts and confit tomatoes. Meanwhile, I really wanted only one thing: tender grilled chicken
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✪ NOT WORTH THE TRIP
slathered with mayonnaise, topped with bacon, avocado and cheese, and stacked high between crispy sourdough bread. The sandwiches come with your choice of chips or the house ‘dijon’ salad, and, like a good boy, I ordered my club with a side of greens. However, I must have been giving off some seriously strong wishful thinking, because the waiter soon returned to the table with my sandwich and a heap of golden, fried potatoes. I had definitely asked for the salad, but in the end I was given exactly what my nostalgic heart (and stomach) truly desired. No harm, no foul. Being a person who often fears that restaurant portions may not be substantial enough to curb my hearty appetite—and being a writer, I like to have as much material to work with as possible—I double ordered. My club sandwich, therefore, came paired with a hefty plate of steak tartare, and this one was safely on the classic side, with a mild kick of mustard, plump caper berries and crispy Sardinian flatbread for spreading. I thoroughly enjoyed Cafè Godot’s version, though I would have welcomed the option to ramp the flavour up a notch to meet my preferred level of seasoning and spice. While I alternated between jaw-stretching bites of my ample club sandwich and spoonfuls of supple raw beef fillet, across the table my dining companion contemplated the impeccable texture of her broccoli quiche. So simple, yet so satisfying, a well-made quiche is a thing of beauty. Nestled in a butter-rich, flaky pastry shell, the velvety consistency of the eggs and cream with Gruyère cheese was divine—a technically-perfect custard that would make any chef proud. Served with a little mound of salad, Cafè Godot’s quiche is a great not-toofilling-but-deliciously-satisfying kind of meal. There are many classic and creative cocktails on offer and they make for tasty bookends to your meal, either as palate-opening aperitivos, ✪✪ COULD IMPROVE
✪✪✪ GOOD
or as leisurely digestivos (which is more recommended than finishing with a coffee, which was bitter and stale, begging for a packet or two of sugar before being downed with a grimace). It’s common in Barcelona that even superb restaurants seem to forget that coffee actually matters and many serve up some pretty rancid brew, so I won’t hold it against them, though I hope it improves. Cafè Godot is the kind of place that leaves you feeling like you’ve found a friend. With plenty of variety and variation, from their brunch and lunch menus to their bar snacks, cocktails and evening à la carte dishes, I was left wanting to come back at every time of day and taste my way through the kitchen’s repertoire. There are many restaurants in this busy neighbourhood, but I would happily choose to wait for a table at Cafè Godot over its local rivals. There seems to be a little something for everyone on this well-planned menu, so if you’ve been looking for a special spot for your next cena de amigos, this may be the one.
MORE INFO. Sant Domènec 19. Tel. 93 368 2036 Sun-Thurs 10am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am ✪✪✪✪
✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD
✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED
2/24/16 11:16 AM
Recipe BUNYOLS Originally introduced to Catalunya by the Sephardic Jews in the Middle Ages, bunyols have traditionally sweetened the days of people who have given up their favourite foods for Lent. There are two types of these tasty deep-fried dough balls: bunyols de l’Empordà and bunyols de vent. Bunyols de l’Empordà are characterised by a less-rounded hole in the middle. bunyols de vent, on the other hand, have a round shape and are not usually filled, although they can be bought with cream or chocolate in the middle. This recipe is for bunyols de vent. Preparation time: 60 minutes Season: Winter/spring INGREDIENTS 75g flour 200ml of milk 60g butter 4 eggs Zest of 1/2 lemon Anís (anise-flavoured liqueur) Salt Sunflower oil Sugar METHOD 1. Put the milk in a saucepan with the butter and a pinch of salt. 2. When the butter has melted and the milk is boiling, add the flour without removing from the heat. 3. Stir until it makes a dough that does not stick to the edges of the pan. 4. Place the dough in a large bowl, add the eggs one at a time and stir until smooth. 5. Add half a glass of Anís and the lemon zest. 6. Mix together until the dough is very smooth, then cover it with a towel and let it rest for half an hour. 7. Divide the dough into small portions and roll them into balls. 8. Put plenty of oil in a pan and heat. When the oil is hot, add the dough balls and fry. 9. Once fried, place them on kitchen paper to absorb the excess oil. 10. Finally, put them on a plate and sprinkle with sugar. When they are cold, add some extra sugar and serve. CHEF’S TIPS • Instead of sugar, you can also use honey. • The bunyols can be filled with cream or chocolate.
Visit www.ambdosfogons.com for more traditional Catalan recipes. Toni Rocamora is the head chef of a big family and lover of all gastronomy-related sports, such as snail hunting, mushroom hunting and market shopping. Toni was born in Oliana, a small town in the foothills of the Pyrenees, and inherited his passion for cooking from his mother, famous for her traditional family recipes.
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QUICK BITES
LA ESQUINA
A QUIET CORNER IN THE CITY CENTRE THAT INVITES YOU TO SLOW DOWN AND SAVOUR THE MOMENT. BY SAM ZUCKER.
J
ust when you thought you had to venture outside of the city centre to track down the latest and greatest of Barcelona’s soulful, healthy cooking and coffee geekery, London chef Alan Stewart arrived on the scene. Together with longtime friend and coffee connoisseur Louis Gill and his team of food and design professionals, chef Stewart has lifted an otherwise all-toogeneric city corner to new heights of modern, homely comfort. The tagline of La Esquina is ‘Kitchen & Coffee’, and they take both elements very seriously without unnecessary formality. “This isn’t just a café or a restaurant. This is like being in my home,” Stewart explained. When creating the aesthetic of this high-ceilinged space, Stewart and the rest of his team put the decor in the hands of graphic designer Emilio Lekuona and photographer Elena López Lamadrid, rather than interior designers. The gorgeous space is meant to be photographed and, with natural light streaming in through expansive windows and rows of hearty glassware behind the coffee station, the dreamy snapshots of your afternoon brunch practically take themselves. Situated just one block from La Rambla and Plaça de Catalunya, La Esquina is really one of the only restaurants of its kind in the area, serving fresh, creative food and top-notch, locally roasted coffee. Before moving to Barcelona, Louis Gill was running Noble Espresso, a business that began as a mobile coffee cart outside King’s Cross railway station in London. Eventually, this little operation was recognised as crafting one of the best cups of coffee in all of London, launching them into a hospitality events service, which saw them pull espresso shots by the thousand for the likes of Google, Nike, Facebook and Uber.
Tastings
On a recent visit, as I sop up the last streak of velvety hollandaise sauce with the homemade biscuit of my classic Eggs Benedict, chef Stewart outlined his food philosophy in the simplest terms. “We don’t do much fried food,” he explained. “Instead, we focus on having lots of vegetables, grains and legumes. We make as many things from scratch as possible. Basically, our motto is that we do it here and to the best of our ability.” Though La Esquina has rapidly gained fame for its well-rounded brunch menu of irresistible offerings—pancakes with pear, apple and caramel; poached egg with avocado, goat’s cheese and dill; house-smoked salmon toast with butter; Kedgeree (an Indian-style dish of rice, apple, flaked fish, curry, parsley and egg, which is popular in the UK) and Bloody Mary cocktails made with chilli-infused sherry wine— the weekday lunch menu and evening dining options are equally interesting. Those who have already popped into this inviting corner spot have discovered that it is perfect for a wide array of occasions, from the afternoon coffee and email catch-up to a boozy Sunday brunch or leisurely weekday lunch. The La Esquina team comes from all walks of life, but together they bring a unified passion and liveliness to their work, and it shows.
MORE INFO.
Bergara 2. Tel. 93 768 7242 Mon-Wed 9am-8pm, Thurs-Fri 9am-1am, Sat 10am-1am, Sun 10am-6pm. www.laesquinabarcelona.com
Miquel Hudin is a sommelier originally from California but now based in Barcelona. He founded the Vinologue series of wine books (www.vinologue.com).
SOLIDARITY IN WINE In recent springtimes, local wineries have taken to creating ‘wines for a good cause’, with the premise being quite simple: buy the wine and the proceeds go to charity. I have had the chance to taste many of these wines and, not only are they for a good cause, but they are also worth your euros. MASROIG VI SOLIDARI 2013 This is produced in the cellars of El Masroig in DO Montsant. They are labelled with various illustrations by children from 21 different schools and this year the funds raised go to support treatment of childhood cancer. Whilst it isn’t clear which specific cellar has produced the wine, the general blend is comprised of Grenache, Carignan and Syrah, which are all excellent grapes from the region. This particular
bottle held rich red fruits as well as a touch of currant and dark prune. Overall medium acidity, medium body. New vintage available starting at the end of May. €12 MICROSCOPI 2014 This wine was started by enologist and cellar owner Irene Alemany in DO Penedès to fund the purchase of a specific microscope at her local hospital. The first vintage worked so well that she decided to continue making the wine, with the proceeds going to breast cancer research. This vintage holds bell pepper and roasted vegetable notes along with dark fruits. Smooth and even in the mouth with a medium plus body and medium acidity, alongside pepper notes that drift in to the finish. Now available. €9
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NEFW &D
FOOD DRINK
& IN
Bar D9 BAR 4 POBLENOU Whether you are an Erasmus student, a football fanatic or a music lover, D9 Bar has at least one night a week for you. Fully equipped with a terrace, D9 offers a wide range of tapas, beers, cocktails and shots for every night of the week. American Day on Wednesdays, Erasmus Parties on Thursdays, and music themed parties on Friday and Saturday. There is always something for everyone.
DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS
under 20 | 20-30 | 30-40 | over 40 food&drink visit our online directory
Pallars 122, 08016 Tel. 93 309 9202 I www.denou.bar Open Sun-Thurs 6pm-2.30am Fri-Sat 6pm-3am
www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking Mexican MALPASO4EIXAMPLE
BAR DOS BILLARES 4 RAVAL
This recently opened restaurant offers traditional Mexican cuisine. For starters, don’t miss the excellent house nachos, served with cheese, pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream, or ‘Vuelve la Vida’, a seafood ceviche with avocado, tomato and lime. Star main dishes include the Arrachera, a grilled US prime hanger steak served with baked vegetables, and the Atún Moctezuma, pan-seared tuna battered in Mexican spices, served with pico de gallo, avocado and mint sauce. Mexican brunch is available at the weekend.
This well-kept secret is located in the basement of Casa Camper Hotel where jazz, culture and billiard lovers can relax and enjoy an exclusive cocktail. This Club offers a program of cultural and music events for the most creative public. Ideal for escaping the crowds or take your business clients.
Girona 59, 08009 Tel. 93 461 3060 Mon-Thur 8am-12am Fri-Sat 8am-3pm, Sun 9.30am-12am
Elisabets 11 Tel. 93 342 6280 www. club.casacamper.com
NEFW &D IN
Ice Cream MANNA GELATS 4 BARRI GÒTIC
BLACKLAB BREWERY4 BARCELONETA
Homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico. Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the best products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with market-bought products, boasting exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalized attention.
The newly opened BlackLab Brewery offers customers a new experience in Barcelona––a place where you can come with friends and family, and enjoy a unique pint of craft beer, made just two metres from where you’re sitting. BlackLab’s food is a culinary journey from China all the way to New York. You’ll find dumplings and bahn mi, mussels fresh from the fish market, ramen, cheesecake, portobello mushrooms, and more. New 1 hour beer tour every Sunday at 5pm. Tastings 4 beers for €12. Quote Metropolitan to receive a free Blacklab bag.
Ban ys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312
NEW BEER TOUR
Palau de Mar, Plaça Pau Vila 1, 08039 Tel. 93 22 18 360 hola@blacklab.es www.blacklab.es
Indian / Tandoori SURYA 4EIXAMPLE Surya Barcelona is an Indian restaurant that invites you to travel all the way to the streets of Mumbai, rich with colour, smell and exotic flavors. They offer a cosy and relaxed place where you feel at home, where you can drink, read a magazine, connect to the Internet, work and try out some of their delicious dishes. After dinner you can relax with cocktails and enjoy their in-house DJs from “The House Party” collective with “Deep Fridays” and Saturday night Funky new disco. Pau Claris 92 | Consell de Cent 236, 08011 Tel. 93 667 8760 www.suryabarcelona.com
FONDA ESPAÑA4 BARRI GÒTIC Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room that was originally designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements. Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that is a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins. Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat, from 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun, from 1pm-4pm, Closed Sun evening.
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BRITTA´S NORDIC DELI 4 BONAVISTA 29
BE MY BAGEL 4GRÀCIA Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed.
Britta’s Nordic deli is the first and only Scandinavian deli in Barcelona. Here you’ll get the most delicious sandwiches and “smørrebrød” in town. Moreover they offer all kinds of specialties to take away from a wide charcuterie like smoked and marinated wild salmon, hot smoked salmon, marinated herrings, homemade salads, smoked deer, organic cheeses, Danish seaweed “caviar” and a lot more. Tel. 93 461 7362 www.brittas.es Opening hours 11.30am-3.30pm, 5.00pm-9.00pm, Mon 5pm-9pm, Sat 11.30am-3.30am
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Delivery ONLINE RESTAURANT & DELIVERY 4POBLENOU
Foodies Barcelona is an online restaurant that prepares wholesome and fresh meals, and delivers to the office. Whether you want a healthy lunch for a meeting or daily catering, they’ve got you covered. Order online or contact them for a menu.
Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) Metro Fontana and Gràcia Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm
S ant Joan de Malta 131, Tel. 93 266 4271 www.foodiesbarcelona.es
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Bar KAIZEN AFTERWORK4POBLE NOU
CAFE MENSSANA CIUTAT VELLA At Menssana, creative and healthy cuisine are combined with gracious and knowledgeable service. There is something for everyone, with vegan and vegetarian options created using flavors from around the globe. They also offer a carefully selected range of local wines and beers, as well as smoothies and fresh juices. Their aim is to nourish your body and mind with delicious meals served in a vibrant and friendly atmosphere.
Sardenya 48, 08005 Tel. 93 624 3505
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TAP DE SURO 4 EIXAMPLE Tap de Suro is an intimate place dedicated entirely to the world of wine. Here you can experience delicious Mediterranean meals accompanied with their authentic wine collection. They offer a diverse menu of Catalan wines and cavas, ranging from local Spanish grapes to the best international wines. They also provide a sales service in which they can advise you in finding the perfect flavour for every occasion.
Mallorca 202, 08008 Tel. 93 461 4853 info@tapdesuro.com
LOIDI RESTAURANT4 EIXAMPLE
Do you work close to 22@ and feel like relaxing after work? Come to Kaizen Afterwork and enjoy premium cocktails and tasty snacks. Great vibe and great music. Bring this ad and get 15% off a gin and tonic. Castella 1 Tel. 93 676 0761 / 636 092 221 facebook.com/kaizenafterwork | info@kaizenafterwork.com
Vegetarian/Vegan ZAATAR (VEGETARIAN)4EIXAMPLE Experience delicious, creative vegan and vegetarian dining with the finest, fresh organic ingredients. Zaatar innovates with locally sourced fusion cuisine. The imaginative and healthy menu is complemented by freshly squeezed juices. They are truly passionate about food while maintaining focus on sustainability and conscious living. Lunch menu under €10. Paris 200 | Metro Diagonal | Tel. 654 926 601 | Mon-Sat 12pm-12am
GOVINDA (VEGETARIAN)4BARRI GÒTIC Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, nonalcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 www.govinda.es | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm
AMALTEA4EIXAMPLE
A warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Menu of the day 10.70, night and weekend menu 15.50. Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | www.restauranteamaltea.com Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm, Closed Sun
Loidi is a contemporary bistro, in which Martin Berasategui makes his cuisine accessible to everybody. Cuisine prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients and presented with imagination that recalls and pays homage to the celebrated Basque chef’s traditional roots and origins. The menu features various dining options with dishes that change on a weekly basis. The restaurant is a very contemporary, warm and comfortable space frequented by a local and professional clientele. Head chef: Jordi Asensio. Maitre d’: Oscar Fernández.
HAPPY DAY VEGETARIANO 4EIXAMPLE Located in the centre of town, this vegetarian-vegan restaurant, Happy Day Vegetariano, offers a variety of fresh salads, soups and dishes. And there is a large assortment of fresh home-baked cakes to choose from, including carrot, pear and orange, and carob. These vegetarian and vegan cakes are produced using brown sugar and organic wholemeal flour. At Happy Day Vegetariano, they believe that if you take care of your health and eat the right food, your well-being and mood will improve. Come to the Happy Day and make the animals, yourself and the world happier!
Mallorca 248-250, 08008 Tel. 93 492 9292 Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm, 8pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-3.30pm, Closed Sun evening.
Pau Claris 143 (Between Valencia and Aragon) Tel. 93 171 7081 www.happydayvegetariano.com/en
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HEALTH &BEAUTY
Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR
Doctor for Adults
DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS
Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine. Also a member of IAMAT.
To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at
www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Doctors Barcelona - DOCTOR Is the top medical group in Barcelona. They are committed to provide a first-rate level of care and attention. They are experienced, trained and equipped to diagnose and treat most acute or chronic medical problems and injuries. Available 24 hours including weekends and holidays. A 30 minutes arrival time to your destination is guaranteed. Their convenient visit fee is refundable by most insurance companies. All Specialists and best Hospitals available.
M. 689 327 144 info@doctorsbarcelona.com www.doctorsbarcelona.com
Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians
Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia
Dr Bassas - DErMATology The Javier Bassas Dermatology Centre is a well-renowned dermatology and surgical centre equipped with the latest technologies. The medical team, led by Dr. Javier Bassas Bresca, consists of Surgical Dermatology and Venereology specialists with vast clinical and surgical experience.Their goal is to provide specialised, rigorous, efficient and accessible care in Surgical Dermatology and Venereology, with the highest quality and ethical standards. Diagnosing and treating skin diseases is their priority, as well as offering the latest advances in dermoaesthetics. Consulta Balmes 24 1º1 T. 93 412 6602. Teknon, Marquesa de Vilallonga nº 12. Consulta nº 34 1ª 08017 T. 93 290 6434
Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR English doctor in Barcelona, Dr Steven Joseph, is a member of The Royal College of General Practitioners and The Royal College of Psychiatrists. He offers a wide range of medical care including family medicine, sexual health, mental health and access to all specialists and tests. Physiotherapy and chiropractic services are available. googol Medical Center provides comprehensive healthcare in a relaxed, friendly and discreet environment. Dr Joseph is happy to take your enquiries directly. Gran Via Carles III 37-39, 08028 M. 662 291 191 www.englishdoctorbarcelona.com
ServiDigest - HEALTH ServiDigest has more than 40 years experience working for your health and are pioneers in colorectal cancer prevention. Nowadays, colorectal cancer is one of the most common cancers and the prevention is the best treatment. The cure for colorectal cancer depends on preventative measures and its early diagnosis. Detecting symptoms at earlier stages is the key to a good outcome. However, if it is discovered at an advanced stage, it has a five-year survival rate. They have two important digestive screening programmes: the Colorectal Prevention Programme and the Digestive Cancer Prevention Programme. ServiDigest. Thinking of people. Fostering prevention. Medical and Surgical Center ServiDigest
Balmes 334, 08006 T. 93 415 3464/93 545 0990 uad@servidigest.com www.servidigest.com
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Dr. J. E Batista - UROLOGIST Dr. Jose E Batista is a specialist in Urology who trained in the UK and the USA. Together with his team (Uroclinica Barcelona) he covers all the fields of Urology, with special interest in prostatic diseases, laser surgery, bed wetting (enuresis) and urinary incontinence. The team has worked at Centro Médico Teknon since 1996 and also includes specialists in pediatric urology and English speaking physiotherapists for pelvic floor disorders. Vilana 12, Office 24, Consult. Marquesa, C M Teknon T. 93 390 6940 Valencia 247, Barcelona Central Office. T. 93 390 671 info.urologia@gmail.com www.teknon.es/web/batista
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Cognitive Hypnotherapist & Coach - THERAPIST Jessica Boston is a certified Cognitive Hypnotherapist based in the centre of Barcelona. In a nutshell, Cognitive Hypnotherapy works by redefining your unconscious perspective and guiding you towards what you really want, quickly and permanently. get in touch today for your complimentary consultation and to find out how it could change any aspect of your life, because nothing has to be the way it’s always been.
- HoT yogA They have two centres in Barcelona with over 50 classes a week in and options for children. Ideal solution for back pain, stress, weight loss and other problems. More than 18 years experience. International Staff. reader offer: 25€ for 10 days of unlimited yoga.
Bikram Yoga
READER OFFER
YogaconGracia - yogA An enchanted neighborhood studio and community space with 2 locations in the heart of gracia. Founded in 2004, you will find a friendly, international vibe in the gorgeous loft-style studios. ycg has offerings for everyone, from Hatha, Sivananda, Kundalini, Jivamukti (a fast-paced vinyasa) to Pre-Natal, Mum and Baby and yoga classes in English.
M. 660 514 795 Metro: Diagonal/Provenca hello@jessicaboston.com www.jessicaboston.com
FREE CONSULTATION
Hestia - PSyCHoTHErAPy
www.yogacongracia.com
€15 OFF
Hestía International Psychotherapy Centre has become a reference in the city, due to its’ high quality multidisciplinary and multilingual profile.Their professional team works with individuals, couples and families through a variety of services and approaches to therapy and personal development. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, german, Portuguese, greek, Polish, Swedish, russian and Catalan. The first consultation is free. Diagonal 343, 2º 3ª Metro: Verdaguer (L5) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es
20% DISCOUNT
www.barcelonaNEST.com
Born Chiropractic - CHIROPRACTOR oliver Dawson is a specialist in Chiropractic and Applied Kinesiology who focuses on the direct relationship between spinal structures and health. The spine is a gateway to better health, and by liberating the nervous system from obstruction we function better on all levels. The result is a freer body, less pain and more vitality. let Born Quiropractic turn your power on! Call today and be sure to check the radio interview on their website.
FREE HEALTH TALK
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Sombrerers 27, Principal T. 93 268 3070 M. 622 772 623 oliver@bornquiro.com www.bornquiro.com
Pilates Las Ramblas - PILATES Doina, a UK trained and qualified Physiotherapist offers both physiotherapy sessions treating musculoskeletal ailments and classes in Therapeutic and Wellness Pilates to maintain strength and flexibility for wellbeing and injury prevention.Doina has recently added Nordic Walking to her repertoire. Adding a cardiovascular element; Nordic Walking takes Pilates outside! M. 610 712 947 doina@pilateslasramblas.com www.pilateslasramblas.com NUTrITIoNIST
SPEAKINg THErAPISTS
NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS
Yogashala BCN - yogA yogashala BCN in downtown Barcelona is ideal for those who want to practise yoga in a cool, relaxed space. Here you can take a break from daily life to reconnect, breathe, and devote time to your own personal pursuit of happiness. Whether you want to get started or want to deepen your practice, yogashala can help you on the path you choose. T. 93 518 2627 Girona 38, ppal 2 info@yogashalabcn.com www.yogashalabcn.com
Matt Green - PErSoNAl TrAINEr AND
NEST - NETWorK oF ENglISH The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, german, Italian and greek. For detailed information, please visit their website.
Pau Claris 97, PRAL, 08009, T. 93 302 5130 Caravel•la la Niña 18, 08017, T. 93 205 0281 www.bikramyoga.es
Achieve your lifestyle goals with Matt green’s personal training and nutrition classes. Build and tone muscle, improve core strength and lose weight. H.I.T, functional and core training, nutrition and healthy cooking advice. Plus new private gym facilities. FREE TRIAL
Avenida Josep Tarradellas 101, 08029 M. 667 349 680 matt@chef-fitness.com
IAN GIBBS - LIFE COACH
FREE CONSULTATION
If you’re feeling a bit dissatisfied with your life, then maybe you should try talking to a life coach. Ian can help you regain control, balance and confidence to get you back on track to success and happiness. you’ve nothing to lose except your current dissatisfaction. Call now to arrange a free 1 hour consultation M. 605 801 802 ian.coaching@gmail.com www.iangibbs.es
Living Mindfully - MINDFUlNESS CoUrSES Do you want to improve your mood, have better relationships, focus, decrease stress and anxiety and find long term peace of mind? learn Mindfulness in central Barcelona. Taught by an English psychotherapist and Mindfulness teacher in the MBSr format. info@livingmindfully.es www.livingmindfully.es
Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST The pharmacy is open 365 days a year + home delivery service.The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. Av. Diagonal 478, T. 93 416 1270 www.farmaciaserra.com Open 9am-10pm
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Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST
Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic DENTIST Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona and Terrassa provides excellent oral care in an Englishspeaking environment. Dr Nancy Pancko, an American dentist trained at Columbia University in New york, is an American Board-certified orthodontist. Dr Javier Sanz is an American Boardcertified periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university. Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care
New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, a team consisting of their first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 35 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, german, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.
NEW ADDRESS Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Metro: L-5 Salida Rocafort/Rosselló Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com
Platinum Provider
Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 T. 93 246 9043 Metro: Clot (L1, L2) www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm
Orthoestetic - DENTIST
Dr. Boj - DENTIST
The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their dentists experience allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients. Dr. Holguin is a specialist in orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults, and dental aesthetics. She is certified by the Invisalign system.
Dr. Boj and his team offer specialised, comprehensive pediatric dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. laser dentistry and invisible orthodontics are available. Dr. Boj also lectures about all treatments related to these age groups. He studied at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of rochester, Ny, USA. Fast and friendly service in an Englishspeaking, international environment.
Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 Metro: Verdaguer (L4 ,L5) www.orthoestetic.es www.ortoesteticbcn.es info@orthoestetic.es
Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org
Clínica Ed·dent - DENTIST
Dr. Alistair Gallagher DENTIST
This husband and wife dentist team from the Gothic Quarter have an important announcement to make to all English-speaking residents with toothaches. laws in Spain are different for dentists, meaning you need to be careful when choosing a practice. Visit their Facebook page and read their advice; “3 Things you Have To Know Before going to The Dentist in Spain”. Alternatively, visit them at their centrally-located clinic where they can offer you help with whatever dental problems you have.
Dental Clinic Gótico
FREE REJUVENATING ROSEHIP MASK
Diagonal 281 Metro: Sagrada Família (L5) Monumental (L2) T. 93 265 8070 M. 607 332 335 info@thebritishdentalclinic.com www.thebritishdentalclinic.com
Ample 22, Metro: Barceloneta, Drassanes T. 93 007 5616 M. 651 155 320 Facebook.com/eddentclinicadental
Heaven - MASSAgE
The Vital Touch - MASSAgE What is Japanese Facelifting Massage? Japanese facelifting Massage uses a sequence of massage techniques which act as a natural face lift with no need for surgery, helping make you look and feel younger. This combination of techniques helps improve the complexion, remove toxins from the face, prevent & remove facial wrinkles, reduce & release any muscle tension in the face and jaw. Face lift Massage is to help prolong natural, true health & beauty, and to prevent disease. Makes you feel fantastic. Special discounted packs! M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com
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The British Dental Clinic has a patientfriendly philosophy that combines aesthetics, youthful appearances, and a commitment to total oral health. Conveniently located in Barcelona, they offer orthodontics including Fast Braces and Inman Aligner, implants, cosmetic dentistry, whitening and general family dentistry. Their talented, conscientious and friendly staff will help ensure that you comfortably receive the healthy and beautiful smile that you deserve.
• ready to feel fantastic for spring? • Time to say ‘Adiós’ to muscular tension and stress? • Interested in organic, 100% fresh, products based on Ayurveda, Chinese medicine, and European herbal ‘pharmacy’? Let American-trained massage therapist Carrie lewis draw on 15 years of experience and training to soothe you with deep therapeutic massage in conveniently located studios or in your home!
FREE REFLEXOLOGY TREATMENT WITH ORGANIC PRODUCTS
M. 639 533 523 carrielewisbcn@gmail.com facebook.com/heavenbarcelona www.HeavenlyEco-Boutique.com
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BUSINESS SERVICES
GOBAI Group is a property project management firm specialising in technical projects and the legalisation of activities and facilities in and around Barcelona. They are experts in sourcing commercial premises and coordinating renovation work and licensing with the local authorities. They provide clients with local knowledge and expertise. M. 615 345 627 info@gobaigroup.com www.gobaigroup.com
Javiertranslates - TRANSLATOR
DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS
To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at
www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Sánchez Molina LEGAL PRACTICE The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.
Translation services in various languages made by freelance translators according to your needs. Professionalism and confidentiality guaranteed. Don’t let the language get in the way between your company and the Spanish/Catalan market. M. 637 704 550 info@javiertranslates.com www.javiertranslates.com Open 8am-7pm
Fuente Fradera - LAwyERS Based in Barcelona, Fuente Fradera Lawyers is a rapidly growing law firm which covers areas of law including: real estate, commercial law and labour law. Their services are available for businesses, entrepreneurs and private consultations. As legal advisers, they offer a highly efficient, quality service which generates valuable customer confidence in their work. They speak English, French, German and Russian.
Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com
Gran Vía Corts Catalanes T. 93 317 5219 joseramon@fuentefradera.com www.fuentefradera.com
Spain Accounting-
BCN Seguros - INSURANCE
TAX & BUSINESS SERVICES Qualified UK accountant with 30 years experience in Spain offers: • tax services for freelance “autónomos” and small SLs • income tax returns for employees and non-residents • practical advice on setting up a business in Spain • registration of “autónomos” and company incorporation (SL) • personalised advice on your tax obligations in Spain • fast, reliable email service Contact David Cook on M.678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com
Coccinelle - HOME SERVICES Do you need a nanny, housekeeper or chauffeur? Coccinelle specialises in providing highly-skilled, experienced domestic staff in Barcelona and the surrounding areas. Due to their expertise and rigorous selection methods, they are able to provide seasoned professionals for both permanent or temporary positions to suit your needs. you can arrange everything now from the comfort of your own home! Call them today and quote Metropolitan free consultation.
T. 93 125 8626 info@coccinelle.es www.coccinelle.es
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GOBAI Group - PROPERTy SOLUTIONS
Local Barcelona Insurance Agency providing complete personal and business insurance services. (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.) we offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical! Advice given in Spanish, English and German.
M. 636 465 010 rainerhobrack@gmail.com www.bcnseguros.es
Mac in Barcelona COMPUTERS Stéphane Clément is an Apple technician and consultant with over fifteen years of experience. Anna Piqué, a native from Barcelona, assists Stéphane with her business and communication background. Their focus is on providing good service and installations with clear communicative skills and personal advice. The aim is to solve your computer troubles and teach you how to improve your daily use of your Mac and its various accessories, giving you an opportunity for a more pleasant and safer computer experience. MOB / Bailen 11, Bajos, 08010 M. 608 994 599 info@macinbarcelona.com www.macinbarcelona.com
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FREN
Mrs.Q design studio -
Geo Mac - COMPUTERS
GRAPHIC DESIGN
GRAPHIC DESIGN STUDIO
46-48 Business MAR 2016.indd 44 NT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS
George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.
Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services.Contact Mrs.Q for their competitive business packages which includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as flyers, posters and brochures. They specialises in bespoke invitations. Visit their Etsy page to see examples for their work www.etsy.com/shop/ MrsQdesignstudio.
M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com Instagram #mrsqdesignstudio
M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com
Fábrica de Flyers - BUSINESS
Barcelona Women’s Network - BUSINESS
Fábrica de Flyers brings the successful concept of high class printing and design to Barcelona at competitive prices and provides a quality service to match. Eight years of experience on the German market made them one of the leading printing agencies, with clients all over Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Fábrica de Flyers is not an advertisment agency, but the best partner to create your publicity!
Pujades 74-80, 3º 7ª, 08005 T. 93 485 6422 info@fabricadeflyers.com www.fabricadeflyers.com
Supported charities 2014 - 2016
• Barcelona’s premier network for international women • Over 200 members from 30+ countries. • As a social club that supports local charities and offers a business network, activities include social gatherings, cultural outings, volunteer opportunities, and business seminars. we help women thrive and feel at home in Barcelona.
membership@bcnwomensnetwork.com
president@bcnwomensnetwork.com www.bcnwomensnetwork.com
La Luna Shipping -
Barcelona Office -
LOGISTICS
SERVICED OFFICE SPACE Barcelona Office is a street-level premises by the Gothic Cathedral. In contrast to many coworking spaces, they focus on long-term professionals and companies who need a disturbance-free space with their own desk and storage facilities, along with their own key for 24 hour, seven days a week access. The space is open-plan and fully furnished. They provide: desk, chair, under-desk cabinet, shelving, fiber optic wireless internet connection, laser printers, photocopy, scanner, shared meeting area with sofa and 40 inch television for presentations. M. 677 738 860 info@barcelonaoffice.com www.barcelonaoffice.com
we offer a complete service to efficiently manage any kind of transport. Anywhere in the world, from a overnight courier service, to an airfreight or seafreight shipment to the other side of the world. we are specialist managing personal effects shipments, small “boxed” removals from Barcelona to Europe, UK, USA, Australia, New Zealand. Don’t look further, LA LUNA shipping is your one stop shop for your transport and logistics needs in Barcelona. T. 93 220 1715 info@laluna.coop www.laluna.coop facebook.com/ somos.lalunashipping
Garment Printing - BUSINESS Garment Printing is a printing company based in Barcelona and the UK. They offer printed clothing with personalised logos for fashion brands, staff uniforms and promotional clothing. Printed promotional products, such as flyers, business cards, printed pens, and banners are also available—anything you could want customised with a logo! whether you’re a business or an individual, we can help you fulfil your branding and printing needs. Contact them today.
Comte d’Urgell 28 T. 93 393 8194 www.garmentprinting.es
CIBERVIRREINA - COMPUTER SERVICE Open until 11 PM every day of the week, they can repair your computer in 24/48 hours using well-tested procedures. Repairing software and hardware failures, saving your personal files and returning your computer fully operative. In addition to having internet access they do printing, copying and binding jobs. D'Astúries 78 (Plaça de la Virreina, Gràcia). Metro L3 (Fontana) or L4 (Joanic) T. 93 368 5770 serviciocliente@cibervirreina.com
NATACHA ELMIR - PHOTOGRAPHER Canadian photographer Natacha Elmir is known for her fine art style of photography. She can transform your baby shoot, family portrait or wedding event into a timeless piece of art while keeping a very natural feel. Natacha’s service also includes headshots, album covers, events, fashion and food photography. M. 600 803 661 natachaelmir@gmail.com wwww.natachaelmir.com
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NIE Barcelona
- BUSINESS
NIE Barcelona is a service that helps foreigners resolve all the paperwork needed for living and working in Barcelona. Their main focus is on helping to secure the NIE for EU and NON-EU citizens in a fast and efficient way. They can also help with other administrative procedures, such as social security numbers, empadronamiento, autónomo set up, and change of driving license or car registration.
M. 603 209 403 info@niebarcelona.com www.niebarcelona.com
Act Habitat - ARCHITECTS
BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL
we can help… Create your perfect living or work space Get the most out of your investment Acheive a healthy and sustainable environment Deal with paperwork and permits Manage the building works and costs Choose the best firm for the job Coordinate with the neighbours Get in touch, we’d love to hear from you! Avinyó 6, 1º 2ª, 08002 T. 93 318 7121 info@act-habitat.com www.act-habitat.com
Corsa - DRIVING SCHOOL
Mark offers honest, transparent, efficient, English/Spanish/Swedish speaking handyman services. He can help you hang a mirror, paint a room, install reverse osmosis, hang blinds or curtains, do home repairs, assemble Ikea furniture and he can even fix up your place so you can get your “fianza” back from your landlord. Hourly rates. Real time updates.
Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn everything you need to know about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!
La Dolce Vita ITALIAN FASHION This new shop located in Born has exclusive Italian fashion (items of design, comfort, elegance and quality, made in Italy). They can offer advice on how to dress according to your figure and the occasion, highlighting your strengths to help you choose the most suitable clothes.
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Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com
Handyman - HOME SERVICES
M. 645 691 475 mark@handymanbarcelona.com www.handymanbarcelona.com Facebook handymanbarcelona74
FEBRUARY SALES - 50% OFF CERTAIN ITEMS
BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from 4 - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday. The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience. They also offer specialised summer programs, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.
D’en Monec 13 T. 93 518 4773 Metro: Urquinaona (L1 & L4) Facebook ladolcevitamodahombre Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm
Ask for the special Metropolitan reader offers
Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324 www.corsa.cat/en/courses www.facebook.es/autoescuelacorsa
BCN WINDOWS HOME IMPROVEMENTS Do you have a cold or noisy flat? High heating bills? Then BCN windows can help! They can double glaze your traditional wooden windows and doors without changing the way they look. Their unique system offers noise reduction, energy saving comfort and is environmentally friendly. Visit their website for more information; it even shows you how to price your own windows. Call Michael on 619 908 642 and quote ‘Metropolitan’ for a free consultation.
M. 619 908 642 www.bcnwindows.es
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COACHING COLUMN
JOB
DIRECTORY To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS
www.classifieds.barcelona-metropolitan.com
SAM SAYS...
Sam Mednick is a professional life and executive coach based in Barcelona (www. blueprintcoaching.ca). A Canadian native, she’s been living in the city for eight years, working with companies as well as individuals focusing on transitions, communication, leadership training, time management and productivity, as well as emotional intelligence development. For more coaching tips, tune into her Podcast: blueprintcoaching.podomatic.com
THIS MONTH: PAPERLESS BUT NOT POWERLESS Dear Sam, I’m embarking on my sixth year living in Barcelona and I’m still struggling with visa issues. Until now, I’ve managed to find part-time jobs teaching English, handing out flyers, doing event promotions, bar tending, waitressing (under the table)—you name it, I’ve done it. It was fine at the beginning, but now that I want to set up a life here, I’d like a stable job with a steady income. I’ve found a way to get a visa, but it’s probably going to take another year until it’s sorted. In the meantime, I’m going a little crazy with these odd jobs and don’t want to wait a year to start making more money. I know you can’t speed up the visa process, but any thoughts as to how I can make a good living even if I’m not yet legal, would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for your help. Illegal Alien
Hi Illegal Alien, Welcome to the expat club—the one where you often don’t feel like a real person living in this city and where you’re constantly trying to convince a local to marry you. It’s not easy and I know some people who have been here for 10 years and are still not legal. So, the fact that you have a ‘visa in progress’ is a huge feat and, once that comes to fruition, it’ll undoubtedly change your experience. That said, I understand your frustrations and there are definitely things you can do to improve the situation until you become legal. Work for a company based in another country One thing that many people do is work for a company based in a country where they are legal. It might seem counter-intuitive to look for work outside of Spain, but today, living in such a mobile world, we can work from anywhere. Many companies have offices in Barcelona or employees based here. If there’s an organisation you’re interested in working for, ask if they have an office here. If they don’t have one and you’re feeling bold, ask if you can set one up. Barcelona is fast becoming the hub for start-ups and tech companies as well as other industries (humanitarian work and NGOs), and many organisations might be keen to jump on the bandwagon. Start your own business This will enable you to combine something you care about and earn an income. It’s not as much of a sure-bet as working for an established business, but it allows you to register somewhere where you are legal and can pay taxes, while giving yourself a chance to create a stable income stream and do something you’re passionate about, rather than ‘bits and pieces’ around the city. Have a look at December’s column if you want a few tips about starting your own business. Talk to friends Something else you can do, which is often quite helpful, is to talk to friends who have their own businesses or have been in the city for a while. The key to this city is knowing people and you never know what helpful information and insights you might be able to gather from your network. Most importantly, hang in there! The solution is within reach so, in the meantime, take the opportunity to get as many of your ducks in a row as possible. Reach out to companies in Barcelona who are open to hiring you once you are legal. Foster relationships and create connections with those who you might want to work with once you have that ever-so-handy and powerful little plastic card!
To share your thoughts on this column or ask Sam a question, email sam@ blueprintcoaching.ca, or write to Metropolitan at editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com
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INTERVIEW
Justin Doellman 31, PROFESSIONAL BASKETBALL PLAYER, USA TEXT BY RACHEL HUFFMAN.
obviously we speak English at home, so now she’ll be learning her third language. During her first week at that school I asked how everything was going, with the teachers speaking Catalan and everything. She brushed it off, saying ‘It’s pretty similar to Spanish. It’s not a problem’. And I think that’s just great. I feel like both my kids are being raised in a truly special way, totally different to what their childhoods would have been like in the States. Barcelona is also the perfect place to train for my second favourite pursuit: triathlons. The outdoors is one of my passions, and when you combine three sports into one and compete outside, it’s a lot of fun for me. About six years ago, I was watching the World Championships in Hawaii and became fascinated with the sport. The mental strength it takes to get through a race, to reach the finish line, is incredible. One summer, my wife and I decided to try one together. I was definitely one of the biggest guys out there, but it worked out well, and I’ve been hooked ever since. We each have a couple of friends who will join us in a race if they’re available, and that’s when the real competition starts. I admit my competitive nature isn’t confined to the basketball court. There’s a little trash talking that happens and things like that. But it’s all in good humour. I try to do one or two triathlons each summer, you know, just to stay in shape. Being out on the open road, swimming laps in the open water— the whole regimen to prepare for a triathlon gives my mind a break from basketball. It helps me recharge my batteries and come back fresh for the next season.
By Ben Rowdon
SCOOP
I was born in Cincinnati, but grew up in Union, Kentucky, just over the Ohio River, where my mother’s from. Living out in a small town, I had a pretty normal childhood. My father inspired me to start playing basketball. He grew up with it and continued playing through college for the Northern Kentucky University team. He put the ball in my hands, and I’ve been playing ever since. It was intimidating to move to Europe to pursue a career in basketball. I didn’t know what to expect. I had never been to Europe, but coming out of college, after playing for the university team—the Xavier Musketeers—for four years, my wife and I considered it as an option. We decided to come over here, make a little bit of money and some memories that would really stand out. Back in 2007, I did the NBA pre-draft camp. Unfortunately, I didn’t get drafted, so instead of giving up on the game, we committed to moving abroad. I have no regrets. Being in new countries, stepping outside my comfort zone, the whole experience has taught me a lot about myself. Plus, learning about different cultures has been fun for both me and my wife. My professional career started in France. I played there for three years, then bounced around Spain. I was in Alicante and Manresa, and then Valencia for two seasons, before signing with FC Barcelona Lassa as a power forward in July 2014. Barcelona is the Mecca. It’s the top club in Europe, the cream of the crop. And there are expectations that come along with that. We’re expected to win. Basketball is like every sport in that you will have losses here and there, but at the same time, we have to get better and better as a team and continue to prove ourselves. At the end of the day, hopefully we will have a championship title under our belts. Playing basketball in the States versus Europe is different when it comes to system and structure. When I played in college, the game was a little more fast-paced—getting up and down the court, pressuring the player with the ball and things like that—whilst in the NBA, it’s a lot of one-on-one, making for a very slow game. Here in Europe, it’s more technical and team-oriented and I think this system, which is not centred around one or two star individuals, fits my game better. But don’t get me wrong, that doesn’t mean I’ll ever rule out the option of playing for the NBA. I have a nickname that has followed me to Barcelona: Captain America. Back in Manresa years ago, my teammates were giving me a hard time. They wanted me to do something exciting after I dunked. This was around the time the movie Captain America came out. So one game, I went up for a dunk, landed back on the court and turned around to salute the audience. I guess I picked a pretty customary American gesture because they immediately started calling me ‘Captain America’. The name stuck with me through Valencia to here. I still salute after every dunk I make because the fans really seem to enjoy it, along with my teammates. The city of Barcelona itself is definitely starting to feel like home. We’ve carved out a nice little niche in our community. We’re involved in a local church that’s close to where we live in Eixample. My daughter is going to school, a Catalan school in fact. She already speaks Spanish, and
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