Dressing the City: An Alternative Fashion Institute @ Çubuklu Assist. Prof. Dr. Ozan Avcı
Dressing the City aims to focus on the relations between body, space and time through spatial design of an alternative fashion institute at Çubuklu. The three mentioned keywords - body, space, time - will be discussed so as to search for new architectures. During this research process the interconnections between fashion design and architecture will be studied both in an ontological and epistemological manner. The studio aims to expand the keywords as following: Body: The body does not merely refer to the human body, the organic one, but also emphasizes the inorganic one. The body can be anything, thus it becomes problematique. Organic/inorganic, material/immaterial, actual/virtual, physical/metaphysical, with organs/without organs, etc... All the states of body will be discussed in the context of space, time and architecture . Space: The concept of space is generally linked with the concept of void. Broadly speaking, the architectural space is considered as a building or a construction. Then, the space is considered as the object. From a wider perspective the space can also be the subject. The shift between the object and the subject triggers new definitions of space. Like for the body, space an also be organic/inorganic, material/immaterial, actual/virtual, physical/metaphysical, with organs/without organs, etc... besides public, semi-public and private.
Time: Time is a relative concept. Past, present and future folds and unfolds itself through experience. The bodily experience nestles space, time and body. The tension between dichotomies such as organic/inorganic, material/immaterial, old/new, etc... activates the memory and the experience of the present merges with the past ones and reflects ideas, thought that have not yet come to pass. In this context, students are asked to question the concepts of space, time, body and their intertwined relations and reflect their sophisticated research on their architectural design. To find some alternatives for a fashion institute is the main goal of the studio. In order to find out alternatives, students should start with understanding the structure of existing fashion institutes. Consumption and production processes will be deciphered so as to propose a new program for an alternative fashion institute. The institute will take place at Çubuklu where there are seventeen abandoned gas tanks, old industrial artifacts on the Bosphorus. The site has various borders such as the border between the land and the water, the industrial/manmade and nature, and the old and the new... All of these dichotomies will enrich the design process and trigger creativity and imagination. Both the ontology and epistemology of architecture will be discussed together with the new technological, material and representational developments so as to create a new atmosphere through poetics of space.
Readings:
Further Readings:
● Skin+Bones: Parallel Practices in Fashion and Architecture, exhibition guidebook, 2008 ● Another Space: Textile Spaces, edited by Nicola Louise Markhus and Marte Danielsen Jølbo, Copenhagen, 2013 ● VITAL VOGUE – a biosocial perspective on fashion, Otto Von Busch, New York: Self Passage 2018 ● Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys, Kate Fletcher, Routledge, 2014 ● Dressing The Body: Silhouettes and Fashion 1550-2015 catalogue, edited by Silvia Ventosa, Barcelona Design Museum, Barcelona, 2017 ● Skin: Surface, Substance + Design, Ellen Lupton, Princeton Architectural Press, New York, 2002 ● Manus X Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology, Andrew Bolton, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2016 ● Wearable Architectures / Architectural Cloths: The Interaction between Fashion Design and Architecture, Ozan Avcı, MITA-2015 “Architectural Design Research 21st Century” National Symposium, Özyeğin University Faculty of Architecture and Design, 2015 ● Moda Praksisi, Otto Von Busch, Yeni İnsan Yayınevi, 2017 ● Betonart, Tema: Beden, Konuk editör: Levent Şentürk, Sayı:35, 2012 ● Sürdürülebilir Moda, editör: Şölen Kipöz, Yeni İnsan Yayınevi, 2015
● The Poetics of Space, Gaston Bachelard, Beacon Press; Reprint edition (April 1, 1994) (© 1958) ● Matter and Memory, Henri Bergson, translated by W. Scott Palmer and Nancy Margaret Paul, Zone Books (NYC), 1990 (first published 1896). ● Questions of Perception: Phenomenology of Architecture, Steven Hall, Juhani Pallasmaa, Alberto Perez-Gomez, Architecture and Urbanism: Japan, 1994. ● Relationscapes: Movement, Art, Philosophy, Erin Manning, The MIT Press, 2012. ● Rethinking Architecture: A Reader in Cultural Theory, edited by Neil Leach, Routledge, 1997. ● The Eyes of the Skin: Architecture and Senses, Juhani Pallasmaa, John Wiley & Sons Ltd, 2005. ● The Imaginary: A phenomenological psychology of the imagination, Jean-Paul Sartre, translated by Jonathan Webber, Routledge, 2004 (first published 1940). ● The World of Perception, Maurice Merleau-Ponty, translated by Oliver Davis, Routledge, 2004 (first published 1948). ● Thinking Architecture, Peter Zumthor, translated by Maureen Oberli-Turner, Birkhaeuser Publishers for Architecture, 1999. ● 3D-Printed Body Architecture, edited by Neil Leach, Behnaz Farahi, AD Architectural Design Special Issue, November/December 2017, Volume 87, Issue 6 ● Future Details of Architecture, edited by Mark Garcia, AD Architectural Design Special Issue, July/August 2014, Volume 84, Issue 4. ● Drawing Architecture, edited by Neil Spiller, AD Architectural Design Special Issue, September/October 2013, Volume 83, Issue 5. ● Architecture Timed: Designing With Time in Mind, edited by: Karen S Franck, AD Architectural Design Special Issue, January/February 2016, Volume 86, Issue 1
intercept busra ebrar sayan
Fashion and Architecture are art and
1_scales of the space and body
design elements that have similar disciplines in different branches. In general, we see that both of them focus on the human body in design. Both use the dimensions of the human body to design a shell that surrounds or protects the body. These design branches define the limits of the body and reflect it to the environment with different materials. Designers can show their culture and social themes in their designs. These two disciplines use common concepts and design elements to serve human with different scales and materials.
2_how we shaped the world?
dressing the city The main fact that forms the surrounding artificial cover is viewpoint. What we see and imagine that what we need to reflect around. When the world existed it was natural, it had own shape and naked. Humanity discovered the world firstly, and according to their requirements, added objects and the changed the world. People can dress whatever they want and change easily. But the settlements that we create in the world don’t change so easily. Dressing the city like to a person is dressing the ten different fold clothes.
3_the rotation of ferry between çubuklu and sitinye
is one of the important regions in the Bosphorus that is home to many history from past to present and attracts attention with its nature and structures. There are many varieties of plants and trees surrounding the groves. it features historic mansions, birdhouses in the groves. We can see the value given to the environment in these time. 6_density of green areas
4_near the istinye çubuklu ferry port
Çubuklu
5_to approach the site
being on bosphorus It is possible to reach this region with its border in the Bosphorus. People on the seaside are still fishing since the past. it is possible to visit the coastline and groves and watch the bosphorus. Through to its historical areas and landscape, it leaves a green and natural silhouette in the bosphorus.
7_understand the surfaces of the site in two dimensons
8_usage ideas of gas tanks
Ontology of the Gas Tanks 1.Industrial cast iron products 2.The effect of gas tanks from the exterior, cylindrical mass from the inside, gloomy and empty spaces 3.There have different transitions between the gas tanks such as stairs or small gates.
10_collage of alternative fashion institue ideas 9_usage ideas of gas tanks
Alternative means being able to look at a different point of view and be open to innovation. Be able to change the system that has standardized specific education and specific people receiving this training. To think and reflect innovative. It has been an alternative to serve humanity without harming the environment and living things in today.
11_first transition between usage and production ideas
alternative fashion institute
12_first design ideas
1 examples 1. aspen art museum shigeru ban - walls 2. kiefer technic showroom ernst-giselbrecht - facade system 3. polytechnique learning centre sou fujimoto - transitions, openness
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13_design ideas about transitions
One of my first design ideas was to provide connections between gas tanks with transparent closed bridges. I was thinking to produce plants among the gas tanks and to take the entrance from a point close to the sea. So people could easily access here.
14_circulation within the model
to produce open cinematographic spaces where everyone can see each other while working and also produce different kinds of plants for use in making paint.
fashion show in the institute I wanted to create a transformation in same places at different times in different jobs.
15_process of fashion show
If Rei Kurokawa did the fashion show here, she could prepare for the fashion show in the gas tank, which was normally used as a laboratory. Clothes could be exhibited here at the end of the process.
16_atmosphere of space
create a space to produce the plant for -produce the fabric dye -produce parfume create boundaries that define the institute at different for -concern -open space -catwalk create a huge database mediatheque and library for -researchers -students -artists -anyone who wants to work here
16_relationship between space and plants
about program
17_plans in design process 18_atmospheric section
by creating closed and open passage spaces in the design, to ensure circulation and to enable people to use as working environment. to constitue an open courtyard at the entrance to create a multifunctional venue where concerts and fashion shows and lessons are handled.
2.opennes from middle for: -library -students -offices 3.open space for -special plant production garden 4.close space for -filming studios -mediatheque
20_configuration units
functions 1.open space 2.cafeteria 3.laboratory 4.library 5.ateiler 6.mediatheque and camera studios
7.library 8.computer laboratory 9.open garden 10.sewing workshop 11.studio 12.studio 13. office
21_ transition between gas tanks
19_usage typology of gas tanks
1.glazing from sides for -atelier space -cafeteria -laboratory
24_ plant production space in the gas tank
23_levels of producing plant
typology of using plant produced and at which level the institute is located
22_typology of plants
25_ atmospheric tour in the institute 26_ plantatiton diagram
there are spaces and connections that different from each other, but look like a whole as atmospheric
28_ section that show the atmosphere of institute
25_ plan that show the circulation and usage spaces
25_ site plan
30_ section view from the sea
29_ plan that show the circulation and usage spaces
31_ perspective detail model
system details
explore the institue to describe the circulation, atmosphere connections, relationships, functions and sensations combined with plans, sections, perspectives and pattern drawing. different events can be seen in mobility while traveling, while the students who study at the same time, designers who prepared for the show, people playing the instrument, or people who produce perfumes in the plant world is an important fact of design.
32_ cinematographic expression with pattern drawing
1_not perceive the topography
(un)folded zeynep yĂźksel
2_bring together city and fashion
Alternative Fashion Institute Before considering the fashion institute, it should be deducted as the most fundamentally about the human body and space. One of the most important reasons of fashion is the human body. The body interacts with the space. the body moves, and the whole movement defines the space. The body has a position, boundaries and form within the space. The concept of time depends on body and space. As time goes on, as the body moves, the space is named as lived space becomes lived space, because there is personal experience in it. The concept of experience is related to the concepts of remembering and feeling.
Bring together city and fashion. the main idea of the project ‘’don’t see passing through’’ In the alternative fashion institute, fashion does not form only weareble material. Fashion include the human attitude, body, form and mobility/movement so the alternative fashion institute should include academic experimental work/pratice.
This allows inter-space permeability, which changes human movements, emotions, and behaviors.
Çubuklu Çubuklu is a Bosphorus village in the Beykoz district on the Anatolian side of the Istanbul. Bosphorus village are established in the valleys. Çubuklu remained between the high heels. Çubuklu has long maintained it’s landscape and gardens.Then the ferry service began in the Bosphorus, this situation caused the population increase in çubuklu. (https://wikipedia.org/wiki/Çubuklu,_Beykoz)
3_features of the project area
Çubuklu has different qualities, being on the edge of the Bosphorus and being industrialized.
Çubuklu Pattern Drawing Reduce the three-dimensional object to two dimensions. Line thicknesses, depending on the front and back of the object, used in architecture.
This method is used in fashion. pattern drawing allows you to see all the details at the same time in a two-dimensional plane and provides effective space usage.
4_pattern drawing isohips by line thicknesses
be 17cm. The text body should be aligned left.
Ontology of the Gas Tanks 1-Industrial building as the material, cast iron 2-The character of the gas tank varies according to the be inside and outside. 3-The effect of gas tanks on the outside, massive Inside the gas tank, light and empty 4-Exiting the stairs of the tank, experience extroverted and landscape oriented. interior of the gas tank, introspective feelings
5_imagined interior of the gas tank
5-No mezzanine, not fragmented space. cylindrical continuous space
Process of Creating Space
8_underground and aboveground in technical drawing
The situation of creating space in the underground and aboveground was examined. needed places were determined. The relationship of these places with each other and the topography was considered.
Being There How is being in the project? How is the project perceived from human scale? The project Äąn harmony with the topography?
8_human scale and perception
The model and human scale study to understand the answer to these questions.
Initial Ideas of Folding The first design ideas consisted of the idea of folding the project around itself. in this case, different materials were used together to create experiential differences. Tube transition systems with different opacities that allow passage between gas tanks were considered. In this way the project remained independent of the site. these folding situations must be in harmony with the terrain.
6_identify with the site
In order to harmonize the folding situation with the terrain, after the experiments, the creating space under the ground were considered.
Folding Perception The idea of creating space by folding. How should the structure be folded and perceived from the outside? The design idea of creating spaces that can walk on the project and the integration of these spaces with the landscape.
7_imagination of folding situations
hange of spatial experiences of people according to their folding situations.
Some of the gas tanks were considered as the spaces of experience. these experiences were divided into some categories; dark, light, shadow. Create these effects, triangular openings were created in the gas tanks in a way that would fit into the narrative form of the project.
7_triangular spacing and human scale
Experiential Space: Gas Tanks
Folding Idea In order to describe the integration of the project with the terrain, underground spaces were created. The interior of the gas tanks has become certain areas of experience, such as darkness, light, shadow. There are video fashion shows in these gas tanks. At the same time as the places under the ground are formed, the idea of creating landscape areas that can be walked on topography. Transparency is created in some of the underground spaces. this is how people can see what is going on at the lower elevation.
8_with human experiences and uses
Also, it is envisaged about the noise structure that provides the connection between the silos.
12_circulation and exterior atmosphere
9_usage diagram
Alternative Fashion InstÄątute idea and Program
10_understanding the atmosphere
Being There
How to feel the folded in the interior and exterior ?
11_interior atmosphere
the folded walls inside the building define new spaces in the interior. Suspend the gas tank and provide light inside.
Pattern Drawing of the Unfolded
13_transform the 3d to 2d
1-bring the triangles to a one dimensional plane. 2-enumarate triangles from side to side 3-determine the location of the building on the land and sort of the elevations. 4-open the gas tank and show the pilotis it has.
1_triangulation system
Create the Triangle
Building Envelope and Structure
14_roof and floor layers
Walkable roof layers and underground part of the building
the hint
mass expression
emre taha yÄąldÄąz
‘rust and dust’
When we think about the alternative institue and dressing the city topics carefully, we will realize some truths.To illustrate, for me alternative fashion institue is finding a way out from the things that cames to our mind. And create something that rises people from their ordinary life, make them hold their breath at the space you imagined for them.For me, that’s the essence of creating something alternative. It is something beyond functionality. The atmosphere must snatch all the ties of users with outer things, and pull them inside to join the process of this working machine of alternative institue. With this, the machine will work healthfully.
Dressing the city can be defined like this: The day that the humankind overcame living as a struggle for survival, he looked at everything with a different eye.The things that he wears for survive, turns into things he wears for looking beatiful or looking good or even for Showing his personality. After that he started to dress his environment. At every stitch she scored he added character to the naked place. Just like an animal marking it’s territory, he started to change his environment by dressing it.
From a differet aspect, our clothes provide a space to our body with protection fro atmospheric conditions and external effects while covering it up.Therefore, we can describe this shell as the smallest living unit.Just like almost any other thing, we can change how this shell cover up our body or maybe how our body give shape to itAt this point, we call Fashion to this lithness.
The day humankind overcame living as a struggle for survive, he looked everything with a different eye.The things that he wears to survive turns into things that he wears for being prettirer or showing his personalty and character off.Afer that he started to dress his environment.At every stich he scored he added character to the naked place.Just like a wild animal that marks it’s territory, human being also start to mark areas with this kind of dressing by giving a piece of his character all the time.
Çubuklu is located at the Anatolian side of İstanbul.At the North side of it there is Paşabahçe.When we look at the south, there is Kanlıca.Because of the unique fauna and flora it was a hunting zoune of Ottoman Sultans.Today, due to it2s highly valued location at Bosphorus , it is a well known place for all residents of Istanbul.Beside of weekend makers, there is permanent middle-high and high class social structure at the context.Beside of offering high oppotyunities at transportation, it still preserves it’S natural pattern partially.With the combination of middle range housingsi high range corporate and individual housings, there is soe industrial parts.The most significant one is the fuel tanks just stands near the ferry port.We can see that there is a mixture of industrial and natural patterns thereThey are just standing to be dressed.
To understand the essence of the contet and the behaviour of structure, its relationship with the environment and searching for the details how our last product wrap its space up ı decided to start examining and trying the same principles on my own body.I construct a shell to my feet that will provide a space for them.First try was standing on an idea of freeform structures that fills the gap and tightens the tings that located inside.So Icalled this prototype project ‘’Cocoon’’.Cocoon is a project that gives a custom spatial space to it’s user by the technique used in productio process. When wrpping it’s users foot, it becomes a single, no-joint piece that is completely in contrast with general human anathomy. With it’s simplicity in rounded shape, production technique and material, Cocoon’s aim was becoming a single piece with it’s user and flow with the movement. To achieve these Istarted with smallsketches of my foot to understand the behaviour of curves, and any other free form shape.
site plan
Working Principle Diagrams
First approach to Çubuklu
befor the evolution
. The for those. My first approach was cutting the fuel tanks with a rectangular plate that will go around the tanks and do not touch them.The power of this idea was placing something quite opposite with the tanks and the context directly to the middle of everything.
Zoom out Process
ignition
After the first approach there is a zoom out process for me personally.At this step I tried to attribute logical meanings to this facilities need by using the context and seperate the areas by needs.With this step my singular structure became something seperated.
Post Zoom out Process
metmorphosis
Consequences of the zooming out step evolved the structure something more curvy and seperated.It Äąs consisting from a main curved body with small tunnels and huge foots that steps outside the fuel tank space and go down to under soil.
HINT process
product of evolution
At this process I realized the fuel tanks are etremely unique and special to touch.It was very easy to harm them and taking the spirit and atmosphere of the context to nothing.So I decided to place external structures.These structures I creates has a coplete different language than the fuel tanks. They do not have any curves.They are sharp.They are straight.They are faulted.They are huge.By this these structures are domianting the area.
As I mentioned the cocoon’s purpose and help earlier, I prefer to examine the sewing marks of the environment to understand the context better.Therefore I drawed the patterns of the topography and 2 of the fuel tanks.This drawing will ease the struggle of clutch.After these steps I designed the landscape part.
At the manmade topography landscape ı created ı try to create natural axes and squares.For example at the middle of the main route that is located just between the two ‘hınt’ can be descrbe the heart of the facility.When I was working to create a square my biggest struggle was avoiding to call an empty space a square. With the sitting elements at the middle, the ramps, stairs between artificial topography and the usage of restaurants are giving a life to this place To support the open air runway design and the campus life at the facility, there are some routes, axes and squares.To increase the power of this squares the ground level usage and the routes that canalizes peple to the area is vital.Therefore increasing the usage of the ground level with sitting topography, restaurants or walkigng paths will give life to the open space and make it a real square.Taking these into consideration the squares at ‘HINT’ are quite different than a empty place called ‘’square’’.In -HINT- the space itself lives with the users.
T5
pattern of the hınt
T5
details of library part
One of my main purpose was preserving the fuel tanks with minimum change.For me the uniqueness of the area is almost completely based on these metal cylindirs. By following this path, Äą prefered not to open average windows or openings to them.It is obvious that this move might take to atmosphere somewhere dark and looks like a dungeon but for me it was vitally important that the atmosphere of interior should give the feeling of being in a fuel tank.Therefore Äą placed endo skeletons for minimum appearance change to carry the inside elements.
Projectt -HINT- is simply consisting from three additional structures and it’s surrounding fuel tanks. Together, they are working just like a facility or campus in this case.Even the studios are wide and free planned without any column or visible bounaries, they still have bordesrs while keeping their feature to allow the space be ‘multitaskable’.According with this boundary and space issues I also created an artificial
topography inside the -HINT-’s.With the help of this multi-level floor usage (each level is 33.3cm height) we can see that different spaces at different levels may have an hierarchy (just like the student working area and offices at hint1) and chance to serve different purposed jobs.This artificial topography also includes storage rooms, photography studio with a dark room, toilets and fitting rooms under of it.To sum up, hınts onthology are quite different then their environment .Unlike the fuel tanks their onthology is sharp and rigid.This situation also continue at the topography inside and the landscape part of the proect.
ntologicl contrast
Overall aspect
images of circulation
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images of hybrid area
irregular
1_Collage
furkan enes apaydÄąn
2_Site Picture
We are asked to design an alternative fashion enstitute at Cubuklu. Our site includes three typed, seventeen abandonned gas tank right next to forest and Cubuklu-Istınye ferry line. That area is end of a walkingline.
Cubuklu It has been used as a settlement area throughout history due to its fresh water source in Çubuklu. The Ottoman pashas used the green areas as summer houses and these areas are now preserved as chorus and kasr. It is used for commercial purposes because it is in the Bosphorus and is home to many factories. Rod has a lot of socialization and draws attention in this regard. These are: Çubuklu 29, Çubuklu Hayal Kahvesi, Hidiv Kasri, İBB Beykoz Social Facilities.
Bosphorus The state of being watched and the Watcher: When it comes to the bosphorus, it is often the visual, silhouette and observation form. The project area that located on the shore of the Bosphorus has a very strong relationship with that. When approaching to the area from the sea, the gas tanks that are in the position of being watched turn into the viewer position when you came site and this change is continuous.
3_View from top of tanks
Gas tanks are bended thin metal sheets and they do not have any carrier feature. To carry roof it has a thin middle pillar and ribbed beams. There is no light inside and there isn’t any enterence. They are fully closed.
4_Program Collage
Beeing Alternative The institute, which is located on the shore of Cubuklu, aims to develop a new approach to fashion design by enabling fashion and technology, fashion designers and engineers to work together. In doing so, it not only organizes courses and fashion shows but also hosts academic studies. It explores new materials that will be used in design, develops new sewing techniques and aims to bring these ideas to an advanced level by combining the ideas of technology companies with fashion design with the name owearable technology.
5_Collage
Dresing the City The fashion industry is a sector that surrounds, covers and dresses the human body. There is always an innovative approach in this sector as well as from the past. We, as architects, have the same oncerns with fashion designers, and if they wear the human body, they dress the world and the city in our structures. If fashion designers see and examine the human body, we examine the project areas and design them accordingly.
6_Program Diagram
Program At the design studio we had a meeting with a fashion designer and we visit Istanbul Fashion Institute. After these I prepared a program diagram. I wanted to show relationships between spaces with line types and I showed space needs with text sizes. According to diagram exhibition must be related with all spaces but storage is more private. Library is at the front and has no walls so it is public etc.
Hodologic Space and Trajektory Atilla YĂźcel:Walking; changes the atmosphere and atmosphere. Rem Koolhaas: Design of Embassy of Netherlands. This idea and project aims to rule atmosphere of spaces. Point is giving different atmospheres as possible as to user in single project. In my project I tried to combine these two idea and wanted to change relationship between watcher and watched. I believed that combine and changing would make stronger the relationship.
To achive this ideas i linked gas tanks with catwalks and wrapped their arround with glass panels. At the show time spaces will turn into watcher areas also I designed large opening at the outside to give space to watchers.
7_Rem Koolhaas Netherlands Embassy Berlin
In fashion institude I wanted to offer very different experience. I totally changed the fashion show mind. In my institute there won’t be single atmosphere and watchers will be different atmospheres. Model will walk one atmosphere to another. Model will experience all of atmostheres. Some of watchers will be at open air some of them will be in the gas tanks. Some will watch from high some will from low eventually they will experience different atmospheres.
10_Collage on site Picture
We continued mass tries with collages.
Result: With this work I decided to do something transparent between gas tanks but at somewhere gas tanks are so close to each other so instead of designing space between tanks I decided to design links between tanks and
11_1/500 Model
To show the idea of linking tanks I made a 1/500 model. While I was working on it I discover I can control atmosphere with cracked and messy transparent panels. While walking this mess will change atmosphere too.
12_1/200 model
I tried that idea in 1/200 model
Process
8_1/2000 Site Model
We begun project with 1/2000 scaled site model. All of group members modeled given pieces and at the end we joined pieces. With this work we got a chance to see IstÄąnye, Cubuklu and Bosphorus together.
9_Digital mass tries
After that model we started to produce digital mass models.
13_Pattern Drawing
We draw a pattern drawing.
13_Master Plan
Final Works
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coiled fashion institute
1_coiled fashion institute
buse kılıç
2_istinye’s part model
We modeled İstinye- Çubuklu direction at 1/2000 scale, In this way, we were able to observe the extension between the two coastlines, the occupancy and the gap of the areas, the differences in the elevation.
3_the location of çubuklu on the bosphorus
Çubuklu It is a Bosphorus village located in the district of Beykoz on the Anatolian side of Istanbul. Çubuklu placed between Paşabahçe and Kanlıca, and its neighbor on the other side of the Bosphorus is İstinye. There was no settlement here during the Middle Ages. Then, with the factories such as leather, glass, candle, etc., which started to be opened in the 19th century, the industrial history of Çubuklu was formed. With this industrialization, the settlements began in Çubuklu.
First of all, I tried to express the slopes in different planes with different shades.The places where the colors become dark indicate the elevation. With the help of different slopes and silos in the area, it was thought to spread to the area.
If needed, there can be 1 or 2 coloumns on a page, but still the same dimensions (6cm width) The front page should include the name of the project, the name of the student and a powerful image that explains the design project best within the dimensions 12,5cmx12,5cm. The title of the project should be Arial Bold 21pt. and should be located as it is shown on the front page. The name of the student should be Arial 12pt. and should be located just under the title.
4_area recognition
Field Analysis
5_fashion design and architecture
Fashion design and architecture have functional similarities. The primary aim of both is to create a unique design for the user. They create ideas by referring to human dimensions in designs. In order to be able to exhibit and use both, three-dimensional designs are needed. And different materials are needed to express designs. In fashion; fabric, rope etc. , in architecture; concrete, wood etc.
Dressing the city? If we think of city limits as human bodies; we observe that people tend to dress their bodies according to social and cultural structure. In some cities, there are nudity or more coverings due to climatic conditions. This situation like open spaces or the filled volumes created in city planning. In my opinion, dressing the city should change in line with cultural conditions or climatic conditions.
Alternative fashion institute? In the alternative fashion institute provide the educate about the past, present and future of fashion and everyone should access to this information easily. The institute should include many functionalities from product design to sales. The user or designer should be able to follow the design process, production stage, display and marketing of the designed product. The person trained in the alternative fashion institute shouldn't see and learn only design or production, also they should learn the process from design to delivery to the customer.
6_two-dimensional expression of topography
Topography Pattern We know that two-dimensional fabric in clothes has become three-dimensional as a result of folding and cutting in different ways. The cut and fold places as a result of the determination of the pattern gives information about the three dimensions of the garment. In this project, we tried to take the topography of our field from 3 dimensions to 2 dimensions.
And we have discovered that we can detect three dimensions as a result of the pattern drawing without planar drawings such as the plan and section. About my own pattern; I have expressed slopes taking many cross sections at the same intervals. I tried to explain that these gradients came together to form the texture.
In this collage, I aimed to explain that the fashion show can be performed in silos and clothes can be exhibited after the fasion show.
7_collages
I aimed to show that the design that I will make with this collage can be noticeable around the area. In this design, I thought maybe I could also extend with the podium to the sea.
8_options
I started with two different options. The purpose of these two different options was to influence the silo in a different way. In the first option, I aimed to cover the silo and in the second, aimed to rise by not touching the silo.
9_search for space between the silos
I aimed to develop the concept of wrapping the silos as a result of the option suggestions. Because I thought it was actually like dressing the silos, and I worked on it. I tried to show the connections between silos with collages.
10_karl lagerfeld's fashion show concept
By examining a designer's concept shows, we designed a podium area that could fit our own project space. Karl Lagerfeld showcases natural environment concepts (forest, sea) in fashion shows. I wanted to design a podium on the sea because of the potential and naturalness of the landscape in a location on the edge of the Bosphorus.
11_plans
As a result of project area and space studies, I have dimensioned my spaces. I aimed to reflect the exhibition concept in the transition between the spaces.
12_section perspective
hyaloid
merve yalçınkaya
We are establishing an alternative fashion institute in the field of gas tanks in Çubuklu. First I searched the history of Çubuklu. Then I decided on the alternative to the fashion institute. I also got the pattern out of the area. I studied the structure of gas tanks. I decided how I imagined an institute with collages and diagrams. I continued working on models, plans, sections.
History of Çubuklu
Beykoz was a convenient place with its beauty, quietness and greenery until the 19th century. It started industrializing after compensation. The industry of materials such as paper, leather, broadcloth, candle and glass started. Beykoz Leather and Shoe Factory is one of the oldest factories. Atatürk was founded in 1935 by the will of Turkey to meet the needs of the glass. Beykoz is very conserved. (Beykoz, Mihrimah Sultan, Cemile Sultan, Kuzguncuk, Otağtepe etc.) Today it is possible to get to Çubuklu by boat. Çubuklu coast is quite long and has Çubuklu 29, Hayal Kahvesi and Beykoz Sosyal Tesisleri. There is a beach walk area.
The relationship with Çubuklu-Bosphorus
The Bosphorus connect the Black Sea to the open seas. Therefore, it has an important place in terms of its geopolitical position. It divides
the continent of Europe and Asia into two. There are many destinations from Europe and Asia. The two continents are interconnected by bridges. The two continents are closer to each other in some places, while some places are further away.
Pattern of Area We tried to express the area as a whole when we were making the pattern drawing. For instance, I covered the area with a cloth and cut it off from the necessary places, or in some places, I got a dart.
Institute of fashion design We have associated fashion design with architecture at first. Why not use the materials that are used in architecture, in fashion design? I set out with that question. Concrete, wood, steel. In addition to these, there is clothing production. There are also clothes made with 3D printers. The meeting of technology and architecture with fashion design.
First Collage
Second Collage
Production, design, seminar, podium is a combination. Concrete, wood and fabric is investigated and production is started. In addition to these researches, there is also a large library.
I showed you that there are production and podium in the foreground here. I emphasize that the seminar, design, photo shoots are more introverted, in the background.
Gas Tanks
Gas Tank Inside Collage Experiments
Gas tanks are cylindrical and made of metal. There is a thin column in the middle of the gas tanks. They are also ribbed and rusty. I use the inside and outside of gas tanks. Some areas in the program are introverted. In these areas, I'm positioned into gas tanks.
I tried what would be a life in gas tanks. One has a warehouse, the other has a library, and the other has a production area.
Program Diagram
tasarım
seminer toplantı salonu üretim
I tried to show that everything was connected. I painted areas that are more functional to each other in ambiguous ways.
öğretmen odaları
araştırma
kütüphane üretim prova odaları
çizim teknikleri
program eğitimi
mutfak
eğitim
dinlenme yeri
makine kullanımı üretim kalıp çıkarma yönetici odaları tasarım
teachers
manager
üretim
marketing and sales
production
kitchenette
design
seminar fitting hall room
assembly hall photography
design
drawing machine program
pattern drawing production design
search library
production
design
production
First Proposal It represents an area formed by individual elements under a whole. There is a passage that takes people into this unity. While they see the life inside, they also shorten their ways.
Second Proposal It shows a unity under a single shell. It is positioned between all the gas tanks connected to each other. The bridge from one point to the other provides the transition to the other side.
Model Experiment I'm positioned inside and inside the gas tanks. I connected the inward and outward areas with a thin bridge. This bridge is also used as a podium. Transparency is at the forefront of this institution.
Collage In Model These collages shows the life on the podium. Spectators coming to the watch are on gas tanks. The podium connecting the gas tanks is lower than the viewers. Some of the gas tanks are used for backstage preparations.
Victor and Rolf First, we chose a fashion designer. If we had designed a fashion show at the institute, how would the spaces occur? In fact, the fashion designer has helped to look through the eyes, exhibiting the products he produces, making the design way of design.
Model Outside is a library that can be used by everyone and the exhibition space is under the six. There is a space between the gas tanks and inside the main training area. Other gas tanks have a computer laboratory, sewing workshop and seminar room. The bridge between the gas tanks is actually used as a podium from time to time.
Library After getting off the ferry, there is a library that everyone can easily reach and use.
Library and Backstage To look at gas tanks through the library. In fact, the institute I designed is introverted. That's why it's in the gas tanks.
Multifunctional The exhibition space is used underneath the institute. It also allows students to see their own clothes at all times.
Podium The podium actually acts as a bridge. It connects more than one gas tank.
Detail We have determined the critical part of our structure. I showed this with a cross-sectional perspective.
Landscape Walkways, ramps, inside the gas tanks, I have shown the floor differences in the floors of these places.
Landscape I showed the difference between the institute and the silos used in the floor.
Last There is a fashion design institute with multiple functions. As the silos are closed inside, the access roads are particularly open.
1 steel truss 2 steel beam 3 concrete 4 steel reinforcement 5 steel I-beam 6 steel column 7 steel column 8 column base 9 flooring 10 screed 11 sound insulation 12 concrete
hybrid fashion design institute
1_project render
burak รถzcan
3_concept images
2_site map
History of Çubuklu
Concept Idea
Çubuklu stands between the high hills and has lots of green areas nonetheless Location of Çubuklu has industrial identity. It has relationship between industry and fashion that makes it productive area. There are also some sort of places located in çubuklu such as çubuklu 29, paşabahçe, hayal kahvesi.
As a conclusion of my alternative fashion institute describe, I imagine to bring new, modern idea into old, analog system because we are living in technology age, information [enformasyon] age. We have to adapt ourself to modern age hence we shall combine those styles and design hybrid one. In design process, imaginary is foremost thing. Then crafting and labor comes. What if we mix them with digital world. 3D printers are most common technological tools so far and we can use them in fashion to design or producting. Also we can use digital media to create augmented spatiality or reality. With it, we do not need any spatial elements because we already have spatial elements. In design process we may use the digital then product it with hybrid system which consist
Alternative has several meanings. For me the right choice is that relating to activities which depart from or challenge traditional norms. If we talk about alternative fashion institute. I shall ask questions like how can I improve the standart fashion institute without change it's own ontology. Which disciplines could be added to evolve it.
Ontologies of Gas Tanks There are 17 industrial gas tanks taking place in site. They also have their own ontology. They are not consisting from a cylinder they consist with memory which express us it's history and usage that means they are locating as memory and transfer the conditions of past to present. They are massive, concave and functional.
4_concept collage
6__Idea of site collage
The relationship between fashion and architecture is not seperated. Both are based on structure, shape and prettying up basic necessities -clothes and shelter-. The relationship between fashion and architects is less discussed. For me dressing the city is similar with fashion such as dressing the body. Dresses are prevent us from external effects with their own unique form. They have structure to carry itself or make us carry it. Architecture is also same thing, we are designing structures to live inside it, that structure prevent us from external conditions and we want them pretty just like dresses.
5_Gas Tanks
Fashion and Architecture
9_Project in Site
7_Pattern Drawing
We are trying to draw pattern of the çubuklu. Why we did? Because we make the site superficial and degrading the site into 2D. It gives sensual impression and reflect the behavior of space.
What is Alternative? Alternative has several meanings. For me the right choice is that relating to activities which depart from or challenge traditional norms. If we talk about alternative fashion institute. We shall ask questions like how can I improve the standart fashion institute without change it's own ontology. Which disciplines could be added to evolve it. Determining the problems and try to upgrade it.
Dressing the City: Aim of Project Digi-Blob is trying to be alternative fashion design institute. While doing this, it discuss about how to be alternative of fashion? Which concepts should it include and how relation between architecture and fashion together. Trying to express about body, space, architecture and fashion. Both of two disciplines has aim to design for human. Fashion design aims to dressing the body while architecture trying to design the space that surrounds the body. Concepts in design process are same on each other. With technologies of those concepts make the final product. They benefit from each other with their own concepts. Digi-Blob taken place as HYBRID SYSTEM which include both digital and traditional technologies of fashion.
8_Inside of Gas Tank Collage
10_Proposals Models
Pattern Drawing
12_isometric view
11_program diagram
Before design process, tried to make some program diagrams which following my main ideas, to shaping my ideal form of project and trying to connections between specific spaces and how should they be. While doing this, have to consider about project site and other factors which taken place in site. Those factors such as gas tanks, industrial buildings, çubuklu 29 are allow me to designing my project. There is a huge space near ferry scaffold, I need to use the space effective way. Because crowd are flowing away from ferry into district. Should have welcoming them into my project building. I decided to start with ferry scaffolding while doing this I should not forgot my main keyword which is “body without organs”. That will lead me to design specific project. And take place the fashion design institute into it.
Designing Project Following my keywords such as “body without organs” and “alternative -digital- fashion design institute” allow me to design digital producted, particle, independent from gas tanks but has relationship with those. Gas tanks have stable soul, to oppose it, designing dynamic one make the project more powerful within design idea. Designing organic-digital producted components make the project oppose to stable, metal made gas tanks.
13_inital render of digi-blob
Idea of Program
Initial Illustrative Images
14_illustrative images
After illustrating some section perspectives to understanding system detail and develop it if it is not proper for the project.
Site Plan
I design “digi-blobs� which are digital made, organic blobs and connect them with a bridge which also connecting to gas tanks is made with mesh-media to increase the effect of augmented reality.
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15_Section Perspective
16_Site Plan
After some decisions, I decided to apart slab from the cladding material and connect it directly core. So it affect like slab floating inside the cladding.
17_+9.00 Plan
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18_+20.00 Plan
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19_Sections
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19_Renders
socio-industry
1_towards the Bosphorus
zülfüye yıldız
Fashion Design and Architecture
Dressing the City
4_cocky eek
Fashion design and architecture have similarities in the context of structural strategies and tectonics. Concepts related to fashion design such as wrapping, pleating, draping, folding, weaving and so on . The information can also be converted into architectural design information. In a similar structure and construction of architecture information, cantilever system details, residence, public or private also concepts such as being in fashion design can be used. These interdisciplinary transformations enrich the design process for both design areas.
5_yokohama international port
6_fingerprint of topography
Fashion designers create second skin for human body. Dresses are appropriate topography of body and some other contextual things. Architects create second skin for city. Buildings are related each other like piece of clothes. Architects think relations between topography of city and other artificial situations. They can use same methods and materials.
3_vitruvius
2_le corbusier
Fashion design and architecture deal with space for body but different scales. Both are based on human proportions, mathematics, and geometry to design protective layers. When the body is said, it can be human and animal body as an organic entity or any object or machine as an inorganic existence. The relationship between body and space has a multi-layered structure. Architects and fashion designers make standardizations for human body. But it depends regionally.
7_istinye-çubuklu
History of Çubuklu
8_route
Çubuklu is one of the lucky places in the Bosphorus in terms of green areas. There was no settlement in this region during the Middle Ages. Church, monastery rooms, guest house and hospital were built in 5. century. There are some cisterns dating from the Byzantine period. During the Ottoman era, Çubuklu was one of the farmhouses of palace.In fact, the slopes made the building construction difficult. By the end of the 19.century it protected its identity of green. With the ease of transportation, the settlement increased. The social activities started at day life.
9_stratification of project site
On the project site, there are 17 abondoned gas tanks that have industrial identity. Although tanks have an industrial view, the nature also dominates the whole area. What is the ontology of project site?
10_memory
The project site has industrial and natural potential and memory inside.
11_close circle 12_topography
The project site covered with nature as sea and greenery. Sea is an important factor to transportation. To be on Bosphorus is a big advantage for the project.
Alternative Fashion Institute Fashion encompasses the current most popular items of clothing and shoes, styles of dressing and wearing, hair, and even trends in appearance and behaviour. Fashion industry is based on more consumption. Colours and patterns change from season to season.
13_activities
What is alternative fashion institute? It is based on production instead of consumption. How? Institute can try to convert old clothes to new forms. Someone who doesn’t want to wear clothes more,brings them and change characters of them.
The alternative fashion institute has different types of spaces and users. The spaces allow people and students to meet. Idea of bringing together public library and fashion institute is give a chance to meetings. Circulation areas are also places for books. So everywhere is a place for reading.
14_inward-oriented
The gas tanks are closed and inward-oriented. I searched that how can connect each of them. The level differences make some sequences.
16_behind the textile
15_in relations
To be inside and outside of the tanks create different situations.
17_ground level relations
On top of the tanks, there is beautiful view of Bosphorus.This view is different from the ground level.
18_bosphorus
The ground level is more public space. I suppose to make more lively activities there such as concerts, dancing shows, exhibitions.
19_runway 20_distribution
Before the runway, there is long preparation. At that time, the organization of institute is most important thing. Crowd of people can control professionally.
23_connecting gas tanks
22_hoover
21_3
24_layers
25_site plan
26_programme
28_circulation
27_socializing
30_meetings
29_transformer
31_details
32_juxtaposition
The pattern drawing of project gives a chance to think different way. All of the three dimensional spaces come together with that drawing. Different kind of surfaces overlap. To se the spaces overlapped on top of each other is a different experience as a designer. Also it is a sensible way to understand the character of the places. We can observe the situations where the places come together. The intersection point of lines in different characters is like a node.
32_follow
The main entrance is from the tube that is positioned towards the Bosphorus. This tube transfers us from the ground to one of the gas tanks that provides circulation. The ramp inside this tank leads us to the other connecting tubes. There are two types of tubes in the structure. The ďŹ rst type tube provides passages between tanks and the other one allows for touristic trips. The touristic tube gives the opportunity to observe other places. In this way,we can observe the design, transformation, sewing and pattern ateliers and walk around the tanks.
The area between the existing building and silos is designed for eating, drinking and socializing. The building , positioned towards the Bosphorus, assembles people like a broom in the system. This building is the place for big meetings such as runway.
loading...
1_first proposal collage
resul emre kaba
Architecture & Fashion Design
Çubuklu
Can we call fashion design a subset of architecture? Why not? While these two disciplines are designing space for people, fashion design is only a small scale of architecture. There is quite a beautiful relationship between fashion and architecture. These two disciplines are able to make reference to each other and apply similar methods in their designs.In the large set; there are terms such as coloumns, beams, cantilivers etc. which are terms of architecture, in the subset there are design process tools such as drawings, collages, models etc.
Çubuklu is located on the anatolian side of istanbul. since the 5th century, various societies have been settled in the çubuklu and in the ottoman period it was famous for its gardens. The name of Çubuklu comes from the sticks of those gardens. Today, çubuklu is one of the places where various productions are made. Çubuklu can be reached by ferry from İstinye. At the same time, this pier is directly in front of the project site. The project area covers a large area including 17 gas tanks.being in the bosphorus is very important for the silhouette. The slope of the project site shows this silhouette even further. one of the biggest advantages of being in the bosphorus is the excellent view. Having a concrete walkway on the Bosphorus increases the publicity of the project site.
4_çubuklu
3_kengo kuma design
2_issey miyake design
As an example, the designs of Issey Miyake, a fashion designer, and the designs of Kengo Kuma, who is an architect, are similar in form to each other, although the scale is very different.Plating, which is a method of fashion, is dressed in the structure with the design of kengo kuma and gives reference to fashion.
Dressing the City
5_sohei nishino istanbul
Dressing is a second skin that we need since our existence in order to live in the climate where people live and reflect their culture. Dressing the city is a bit the opposite. because, while dressing the city, an existing skin is replaced by another skin . While topography replace with parks, concrete structures, streets and squares, this reveals cultural differences as in humans. As Sohei Nishino depicts cities with small paper pieces, architects dress the topography in small pieces and the city becomes an another structure.
6_iris van herpen 3d printed deisgns
Alternative Fashion Institute The fashion institute is an institution providing fashion education. In addition to fashion education, the alternative fashion institute is an institution which aims to bring new materials and new techniques to the fashion within the framework of fashion and architecture. In this context, this institute aims to approach fashion with a new perspective and to design wearable clothes in daily life with these new techniques and materials. This institute aims to organize a temporary fashion-architecture biennial once a year to show the relationship of fashion with architecture, and to dress existing gas tanks with new techniques and materials.
7_pattern drawing of çubuklu
Pattern Drawing of Çubuklu How can topoghraphy, an architectural element, be described by a pattern that is a tool of fashion design? Fashion design uses some techniques just like architecture while trying to present their design in 2 dimensions. These two disciplines are very similar in these aspects.We, as architects, turn it into two dimensions to describe the three-dimensional object we have designed. But we don't have to use the same tools to do this.
What I learned in this process was that there are many ways to reduce it to 2 dimensions. The pattern drawing helped me to handle my design in a different way. While drawing the pattern, I aimed to think of the current project area as a mold and to cover a fabric on it. in the drawing of this pattern , a skeleton of the topoghraphy was formed and a fabric was dressed after that the fabric folded from the appropriate points and sewed.
8_first proposal collage 9_relations with gas tanks 10_storyboard of a design idea
When I went to the project area in this collage, I tried to tell the first thing that came to my mind. There are 17 gas tanks in the project area and can be easily monitored from anywhere. This led me to show the gas tanks. the fabrics that were dressed in gas tanks were to draw attention to the consept. then this idea evokes a biennial here. I wanted to draw attention to the location of the area by bringing the sea closer to the project area. because this is a very busy place and I thought it would be important in design.
17_timber grid atmospheric collages
16_timber grid detail trial
15_1/500 model
14_visualization of ‘loading’
13_section from design process
12_notation drawing for design
11_hussain chalayan’s catwalk at institute
'Loading' is a fashion institute which located on the bank of the bosphorus in Çubuklu. consists of a timber gridal system, transforms this institute into an alternative fashion institute, allowing different settlements throughout the year.the crane in the project help to cover the gas tanks with different materials for the biennial which is realized once a year by forming a whole together with the structure while at the same time creating new places by changing the places of the structural elements in the gridal system. As a result of the notation made after the cranes were placed at the stage of the project, the grid system around the gas tanks was formed.
While the entrance floor of the project consists of public spaces, it aims to increase usability and at the same time, this entrance floor can be converted into a space by means of cranes and opened to use as gallery and foyer area.The grid system does not touch the gas tanks at any point while it provides circulation with transmit people to same level of the gas tanks. 'loading' is an institute of 250 students, but also offers studio facilities for different fashion designers.
18_loading
17_loading
19_perspective section
20_pattern drawing of ‘loading’
While drawing this, I thought of opening the structure on the current plan. but since the project was composed of a grid system, the opening of the grid was a complicated drawing. I thought to open the colon beams somewhere else and add them to the drawing. I opened the mass of the project where it is, and I determined the places where the grid system will come.
21_ground plan of ‘loading’
22_first floor plan
24_ second floor plan
23_b - b’ section
26_interior renderings
25_system detail model