Tahoe 2

White snow + clear skies = adventure in wonderland

BY CHUCK BARNEY

It’s funny how a majestic Lake Tahoe vista, all lathered in snow, can bring out vastly different desires in different people.

The adrenaline junkie lays eyes on the powdery terrain and instantly yearns to rip through it at a frantic pace on a pair of skis, or aboard a snarling snowmobile. Meanwhile, the more laid-back type prefers to position the whitecapped peaks as a dreamy backdrop while sipping hot chocolate and listening to live music — or curling up with a book — in front of a robust fire.

Such is the all-encompassing allure of Tahoe. There are few places on earth that can match its spectacular scenery while simultaneously seducing a wide array of visitors — from adventure-seekers and nature-lovers to gamblers and club-hoppers, artists and lovers.

And yet, the overall sensory effect that everyone experiences is typically the same: All that stress brought on by workplace demands and big-city hassles begins to magically melt away as you immerse yourself in the rarefied atmosphere of this winter wonderland.

Yes, go ahead and inhale ever so deeply. As Mark Twain once insisted, “To breathe the same air as the angels, you must go to Tahoe.”

Mr. Clemens was obviously onto something.

Of course, the sapphire jewel at the center of it all is that vast body of water straddling the California-Nevada border — that great, big, beautiful, impossibly blue, crystal-clear lake. So mesmerizing. So mysterious. Members of the Washoe Tribe, the region’s first settlers, had to know from the very start that just one look is all it takes to fall under its powerful spell.

But why visit in February? Because even though spring is just around the corner, the slopes usually (knock on wood) are still coated with plenty of white stuff. Just an idea, but doesn’t a Valentine’s Day sunset dinner cruise across the lake and into gorgeous Emerald Bay sound pretty amazing right about now?

This alpine paradise has two distinctive faces: the north side, where the crowds are smaller, the pace is slower and plenty of blue bloods roam; and the south side, where the energy is vibrant and they don’t roll up the sidewalks at sundown. It’s yet another example of how Tahoe caters to disparate personalities.

Both areas combine to offer incredible skiing and snowboarding opportunities. More than a dozen resorts are spread out over 22,000 acres teeming with limitless moguls, jaw-dropping cliffs and breath-taking views of Big Blue.

Page 11: With Lake Tahoe as a backdrop, a skier kicks up some powder at Heavenly Mountain Resort in South Lake Tahoe.

At left: Tahoe is a winter wonderland for more than skiers. Sledding is another option that entertains the whole family.

The ski areas around Tahoe typically receive 400 inches of snow each winter when not plagued by drought conditions. And whether you’re a beginner or a pro, there are plenty of options to find your bliss while frolicking in the pristine snow.

Of course, if hurtling down a frigid mountain with the wind in your face isn’t your idea of primo fun, you can move indoors and try for a very different kind of thrill at the black jack table. If you play your cards right, you’ll go home with a much fatter wallet.

But if it’s snow you truly want and aren’t a skier or snowboarder, rest assured that there are other ways to enjoy the flakes. A horsedrawn sleigh ride, for example, makes for a leisurely, family-friendly alternative. And there’s snowshoeing, or tobogganing, or cross-country skiing.

Among the more exhilarating endeavors is a snowmobile tour of the Sierra’s fir-lined high country -- one geared toward your ability level and conducted at moderate speeds along smooth, machine-groomed trails. It’s a fun, high-octane way to get your motor running and appease your wilderness spirit at the same time.

Then again, if all you feel like doing is tossing a snowball around or building a snowman, there’s that, too. As you do, just make sure to take time to savor your surroundings and suck in some of that incredible angel’s air.

Get Out The Snowmoblie

1 Lake Tahoe Adventures

If you’re itching to get out in the powdery terrain, but don’t ski or snowboard, one of your best options is a guided snowmobile tour. This company’s tours explore beautiful Hope Valley, about 20 miles from South Lake Tahoe and 15 miles from Markleeville. (Riders are taken there via shuttle buses.) Groomed trails deliver riders across streams, through backcountry woods and meadows. Most trips last two hours or more. Ask about their lunch/dinner group tours and the moonlight tours. The latter are conducted when conditions are right. Details: 1300 Apache Ave., South Lake Tahoe; www.laketahoeadventures.com.

2 Zephyr Cove Snowmobiling Tours

These two-hour treks, which depart from the Zephyr Cove Resort, ascend to more than 9,000 feet above sea level, feature more than 45 miles of trails and offer jaw-dropping views of the lake. It’s a great choice for visitors staying close to the Stateline casinos. Group tours are available for up to 180 riders. The Ultimate Experience tour allows you to “fully customize” your adventu--re. Complimentary shuttle transportation to and from hotels is provided.

Details: Children 15 and younger ride free (when accompanied by an adult) on specified days. 760 Highway 50, Zephyr Cove; www.zephyrcove.com.

Tahoe’s mountains offer ideal terrain for snowmobiling, like these groomed trails in Hope Valley.

3 Lake Tahoe Snowmobiling Tours

Better bring your camera along. This company, which claims to have the largest fleet of newer snowmobiles on Lake Tahoe’s North Shore, takes its riders up to the top of Mount Watson (elevation: 8,200 feet), where they’re treated to fantastic views of Lake Tahoe, as well as the major ski resorts in the area, including Northstar, Squaw Valley and Alpine Meadows Ski Resort.

Details: Tours depart twice daily and cater to all ages and ability levels. Highway 267, just south of the Northstar ski area entrance; www.laketahoesnowmobiling.com.

Aerial Ridesdont Miss

1 Heavenly Mountain Gondola

An eight-passenger cabin carries you from an elevation of 6,360 feet to over 9,100 feet. Midway up the 2.4-mile ride is an observation deck with gorgeous views of Lake Tahoe, Carson Valley and Desolation Wilderness. The deck includes a cafe and picnic tables. You can continue up to Tamarack Lodge.

Details: 4080 Lake Tahoe Blvd., South Lake Tahoe; www.skiheavenly.com.

2 Squaw Valley Aerial Tram

On this 10-minute ride, passengers climb 2,000 vertical feet. At the top is High Camp, and spectacular scenery. Weather permitting, High Camp offers an ice-skating rink and Olympic Museum with 1960 memorabilia.

Details: 1990 Squaw Peak Road, Olympic Valley; www.squawalpine.com.

Emerald Bay, an iconic tourist attraction, lies under blue skies near South Lake Tahoe.

Emerald Bay

If you can imagine the shoreline of Lake Tahoe as a glittery necklace, Emerald Bay would be its most radiant jewel. No first-time trip to the area is complete without spending some time around this gorgeous body of water situated on the western edge of Tahoe’s most southern point. You can cruise into it — and around tiny Fannette Island — aboard the paddlewheeler M.S. Dixie II. Or you can drive along it on one of the most awesome stretches of curvy Highway 89, the road that takes you around the lake. (Check ahead for winter road closures.)

Either way, it’s time well-spent. Drivers should stop at the Inspiration Point Vista which towers 600 feet above the shoreline. Just don’t forget to bring your camera because this is the most photographed piece of scenery in all of Tahoe.

Other sights to see in the area include Eagle Falls, just up the road, and Vikingsholm. One quick warning: Parking is often in high demand around Emerald Bay, so it’s best to get there early or avoid weekends and holidays.

In 1969, Emerald Bay was recognized as a National Natural Landmark by the federal Department of the Interior. In 1994, California State Parks included the surrounding water of the bay as part of the park, making Emerald Bay one of the first underwater parks of its kind in the state.

Details: Emerald Bay State Park, 138 Emerald Bay Road, South Lake Tahoe; www.parks. ca.gov.