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As I See It!
T
he season is so bright and beautiful and as summer sets in and we are bidding good bye to winter in India. I am sorrounded by fragrances – of blooming roses in the verdant gardens of Delhi, the subtle scent of kachnar, jasmine and the champa. The heady, pure whiff of alphonso mangoes makes the entire Konkan seem like a fragrant arena! It was interesting attending the recent conference by a media house where Thierry Wasser from one of the world’s top fragrance houses, Guerlain, Paris, broke a few myths in a candid chat on history of fragrances and some common notions on perfumes. He spoke of how fragrances had actually nothing to do with gender. It’s a personal choice and actually only marketing gimmicks had divided fragrances into Femme or Homme! A so-called spicy or woody fragrance could as easily be worn by a female as by a male! Guerlain is one of the great European houses that has constantly been inspired by what is India and Indian. Be it the iconic fragrance Shalimar, which takes its name from the famed Shalimar Gardens in Kashmir or the Samsara, which takes sandalwood at its core! Jasmine has always been an alltime favourite with brands, but most recently, fragrances in the Forest Essentials brand, which are so Indian, warm and cheerful like the colours of India, have definitely intrigued me, as has the mogra oil by Nyassa! Interestingly, the evolution of fine fragrances in the West happened to disguise bad body odour, whereas here, it was always an innate part of Indian tradition to offer fragrances in worship to the multiple Gods and Goddessses! Attars were sprayed to welcome guests on festive occasions and weddings! Women especially perfumed their hair to make them more desirable for the beloved! The subtleties have changed only slightly today. It’s absolutely essential to understand that a small bottle of a fine fragrance gives you a toehold into the realm of luxury, which otherwise would be out of bounds given the high price points of other products – be it couture or jewellery. Lastly, fragrances have an innate connect to your soul, they have the power of invigorating you and connecting you to the divine. Hence, go and find your wondrous waft!
Ritoo Jhha
Editor in Chief
Interestingly, the evolution of fragrances in the West happened to disguise bad body odour, whereas here, it was always an innate part of Indian tradition.
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editor’s letter
I
love that after I spend day with you, I can still smell your perfume on my clothes.” This timeless line from Rob Reiner’s 1989 classic When Harry Met Sally sums up the intangible but inherent power of aroma, its promise of intimacy and its latent sensuality. It’s the stuff that inspires dreams and imagination, and adds a certain nebulous magic to bare skin and bones. But that’s all in the realm of sensual triggers. In the real world, however, fragrances need to perform like any other lifestyle product. Apart from the pure art of creating olfactory seduction, there are the usual suspects of differentiation, marketing, branding, distribution and retailing to be considered. Our Fragrance Special focuses on the segment’s movements in India, with respect to both mass customers and premium/ luxury aficionados, and the clever positioning and distribution strategies brands are adopting to meet the right customer in the right environment. Meanwhile, the first half of fashion week season has just ended in India, throwing up once again new trends and ideas for beauty. Thumb through our Runway Report inside for crisp take-aways of the key hair and beauty innovations emerging from India’s most exciting ramp shows. Aside from our visual treats on beauty innovations and trends, our explorations of business matters, including retail – a subject I am particularly passionate about – are set to get deeper. Next month we will be studying the intricacies and intelligence of salon architecture and its necessary alignment with demographics and location traffic. Also, and as a result of popular demand, a richer focus on academics and training will also be evident in Beauty Launchpad India hereon. If this sounds all too ‘academic’ and pedantic, that’s because we believe in deep subject knowledge and firmly disagree with an outdated notion of beauty being only skin deep! Enjoy the issue!
Nupur Chakraborty Executive Editor
Editor In Chief & Publisher Ritoo Jhha EDITORIAL Executive Editor Nupur Chakraborty Assistant Editors Jhumur Nandi, Vandana Thakur, Isha Gakhar Senior Features Writer Sohani Dogra ART Consulting Art Director Kadambari Misra Designer Amal Mourya Consulting Designer Kaustubh MEDIA & EVENTS Assistant General Manager (East & South India) Kaushik Karmakar (West India) Vinita Masurkar Senior Manager Abhishek Gourav Manager (North India) Subrata Mohanty Sr. Manager F&A Ajay B Jangid Administrative Executive Vikas Upadhyay Advisor G Ramachandran Legal & Corporate Affairs Atul Jha (Manu Law Associates) Finance & HR Consultant Sarwar Raza (Legislegal) Advisor - Marketing & PR (West India) Bharti Shevale Assistant Manager - Circulation & Subscription Sarvesh Singh Beauté Espace Media Pvt Ltd New Delhi | 1500 B&C, Devika Tower, Nehru Place, New Delhi 110 019, India. Tel: +91 11 4132 4044/45/49 Mumbai | 332, Aruna Chamber, Tardeo Opp. AC market, Mumbai 400034, India Kolkata | Cl 216, Sector 2, Salt Lake City, Kolkata 700 091, India Chandigarh | SCO 47, 1st Floor, Sector 26, Madhya Marg, Chandigarh 160 019, India www.beauteespace.net | www.hairdesignertv.in
Publisher/CEO Deborah Carver Vice President/CFO Mindy Rosiejka Executive Editor Amy Dodds Associate Publisher Danielle Timsit Beauty Launchpad India is printed and published by Ritoo Jhha on behalf of Beauté Espace Media Pvt Ltd. Printed at Thomson Press (India) Pvt Ltd, 18-35 Delhi Mathura Road, Faridabad, Haryana.121007 and published at 1500 B&C, Devika Tower, Nehru Place, New Delhi- 110019 Copyright © 2012 by Creative Age Communications, Inc. All rights reserved. Beauty Launchpad® is a registered trademark of Creative Age Communications, Inc. 7628 Densmore Avenue Van Nuys, CA 91406-2042. The trademarks, trade dress and copyrighted contents of Beauty Launchpad® are used by Beaute Espace Media Pvt. Ltd. pursuant to license.
readers' How about something on men? We men now spend a fair amount of time – and money – in salons and spas! Some cool ideas on men’s grooming would add great value to us and also to your magazine, I feel. – Samar Saluja, New Delhi
The March issue cover was great. Congratulations for reinventing the shy Indian bride!
LETTERS
Just saw a copy of Beauty Launchpad India. The magazine looks really great! You guys are doing a fantastic job. Kepp it up! – Meher Castelino, Mumbai My wife once bought a lipstick from a leading brand, which turned out to be a fake product. Aside from the monetary loss, there are also serious fears about safety. Customers need to be advised on counterfeiting and how to check for genuine products, expiry dates, etc. – Aseem Singhvi, Mumbai
– Rakhee Singh, Ludhiana
February uary 2013 ` 100
HAIR & NOW! Our stunning
gallery of tress innovation
nude gallery
INVESTING IN A SALON?
gurus champion the big beauty trend of spring summer ‘13
Here’s what you need to know!
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DESIGN the inside story of an outstanding perfumery
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Looking good has become an important feature of modern life. But feeling good inside is equally, if not more, important. Would be great if Beauty Launchpad could also include some articles on good health as a long term route to natural beauty. – Simran Oberoi, Mumbai Recently came across Beauty Launchpad in a magazine store here. Really like the format, content and imagery. Congratulations! – Kunal Basu, Bengaluru
IN THIS ISSUE Collections 56
Portfolio 62
Sassoon Academy showcases muses inspired from the '20s, '40s and '60s The Obvious Collection by David Kinigson of davidKspace salon and academy, Florida
NAIL Finger Tips 59
Take inspiration from these artistic collections across leading labels
BODY Body Beautiful 66
42
Cover Feature
Spring muse Prachi Desai imbues the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s freshest looks
REGULARS
News Now 20 First Look 29
Tool Talk 46 Events Calendar 68
Recent updates from the world of beauty A look at the latest launches in hair, skin and nails New tools in the trade Beauty events happening across the globe
HAIR & BEAUTY Runway Report 50
Beauty trends from Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week and LakmĂŠ Fashion Week to watch
Academics 60
The newest treatments and spas on the grooming landscape CII's seminar on skill development touches a chord
SPECIAL SECTION
THE INDIA FRAGRANCE STORY Cover Story 02
History, journey and the multi-dimensional evolution of fragrance consumption in India
Store of the Month 18
Speciality retailer IRIS Aroma Boutique, Bengaluru
Icons 22
Spotlight 26
Celebrated bespoke perfumer Francis Kurkdjian shares his story K V Sridhar and Elena Vosnaki pick the most unforgettable perfume messages ever created
COVER LOOK: Dress by Falguni & Shane Peacock; Earrings and Cuff by Memore; Prices on Request
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CONTRIBUTORS
april 2013
K V SRIDHAR aka 'POPS'
From humble beginnings as a Bollywood film billboard painter to the Chief Creative Officer, India Subcontinent of Leo Burnett, Pops has seen it all! Widely respected as a creative leader in Indian advertising. Pops has won more than a bounty of international metals, including 22 Cannes lions and a Grand Global at NYF, over 230 international recognitions and over 500 Indian awards. Under his creative leadership, Leo Burnett India went on to win agency of the year in the Leo Burnett global network, twice. In 2008, he was recognised by the United Nations for his contributions made against gender bias in media and advertising. In 2009, Pops was honoured with the New York Festival's Creative Achievement Award and in 2010 he was cited with the 2010 creative of the year (Indian Subcontinent) award by Campaign Asia-Pacific’s Agency of the Year awards.
AKSHATA HONAWAR
The young hairstylist and the mastermind of our cover look, Akshata Honawar was inspired by her beautician mother, Rukmini Honawar, and decided to enter the industry at the age of 13. After intense training with the likes of Vidal Sassoon, SAKS International and Toni & Guy, she became the Creative Director of Runah Salon and L’Oréal Professionnel Dream Team Member. She is responsible for the artistic act for the Colour Trophy, and is also one of the youngest members shortlisted from India for the Haute Coiffure Française (HCF).
SAURABH MULEY
Within three years of his professional journey, Saurabh has become one of the finest photographers in the trade. Trained under the guidance of a genius photographer, Suresh Natarajan, his work is always unconventional. Saurabh's expertise lies in producing extraordinary beauty and hair images, and his work can be seen in the eminent magazines and beauty commercials. With his lenses, he aesthetically captures the drop-dead gorgeous Prachi Desai for this month's cover.
ELENA VOSNAKI
Elena Vosnaki is a historian and perfume writer and a senior editor at Fragrantica. com, the internet's most popular webzine on fragrance. She is the founder and editor of Perfume Shrine, one of the most respected independent online publications on perfume containing fragrance reviews, industry interviews, essays on raw materials and perfume history. Her writing proficiency was formally recognised at the Fifi Awards for Editorial Excellence in 2009 and in 2012. She is fragrance consulting for luxury and artisanal brands and currently writing a book on scent.
Global *
news now QUICK UPDATES ON WHAT’S BEEN HAPPENING IN THE WORLD OF BEAUTY | BY JHUMUR NANDI |
Cosmoprof Bologna 2013 registers record participation
1
Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna closed its 2013 edition with record-breaking figures: 193,842 visitors (14 per cent increase), including 48,823 from abroad (22 per cent rise). The event was held at Bologna Fair Centre, Bologna, Italy from March 8 to 11, 2013. It drew 2,390 exhibitors, including 1,500 non-Italian and 24 national collectives with new entries from Japan, India, Indonesia, Pakistan and Colombia. India, participated for the first time, bought 494 square metres of space and had 21 exhibitors. Perfumery displayed a trend towards
strong, spicy and sweet fragrances, with 40 exhibitors from the Middle East, while 20,000 0 square metres was dedicated to professional beauty. Green products were particularly in fashion, with an entire pavilion dedicated to the sector. Within Cosmoprof there was a new location for Cosmopack, an exhibition area dedicated to packaging, machinery
and contract production. This formula proved to be very popular and drew visitors’ attention to a production supply chain where the Made in Italy brand has been playing a leading role.
Dry shampoos growing in EU markets: Mintel
2
According to new research from Mintel Beauty & Personal Care on the dry shampoo market, a shower is no longer necessary when it’s time to suds up your hair. Mintel’s Global New Products Database (GNPD) found that in 2008, dry shampoo introductions accounted for just 1 per cent of global shampoo launch activity but by 2012 the segment captured 3 per cent of category NPD and 2013 is on track to surpass 2012 levels. Although availability of dry shampoos is widely accessible, consumer uptake remains relatively
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beauty launchpad | 04.13
low. A meager 16 per cent of US adults report some usage of a dry shampoo in the last year. Across the Big 5 European markets (UK, Spain, France, Germany and Italy), usage is relatively similar to that of the US, but peaks in the UK, where nearly a quarter (23%) of women are engaged in the segment. Nearly one in five (17%) women in
the UK use dry shampoo when they don’t have time to wash their hair.
In brief * PCHi 2013 witnesses huge increase in visitors
3
The Personal Care and Home Care Ingredients (PCHi) 2013 show, which was held from March 13 to 15 at Guangzhou Poly World Trade Center in Shanghai, provided an effective business platform for domestic and international ingredient suppliers. The three-day event hosted several conferences, such as the Technology sessions usually comprised of three separate sub-themes: New Technology & Innovations, and two current topics, which vary from year to year according
to industry trends. A Regulatory summit provides updates on regulatory affairs that are crucial to conducting business in China. Followed by marketing trends session focused on marketing trends, challenges and opportunities for the personal care and homecare industry in China and Asia Pacific. There was also a chemist and formulator professional workshop including full-day presentations by PCHi exhibitors to introduce their newest products and technologies.
Henkel launches SYOSS in Indonesia
4
Henkel Beauty Care Indonesia launched its latest retail brand, SYOSS hair beauty products, in Indonesia at a stylish event held at The Cone Fx, Jalan Jendral Sudirman, Pintu Satu Senayan, Jakarta. SYOSS boasts an array of hair care product lines such as Repair Intensive Care, designed to repair damaged hair; Moisture Intensive Care, designed for dry and coarse hair; and Anti-Dandruff Control, for those with dandruff problems. The
hair-styling line also promises to give consumers a professional feel, with products such as Strong Hold and Straight & Shinehair wax and jelly, and Curl Control whip and jelly.
Symrise acquires American fragrance manufacturer
5
Symrise has acquired the global fragrance business of the Belmay Group, an international developer and manufacturer of fragrances and perfume oils. The acquisition strengthens Symrise’s business globally, it also adds specific value to the company’s growing presence in North America, which is Belmay’s core market. The companies have agreed to keep the purchase price confidential. Belmay’s CEO, Ted Kesten, will
Bulgari ropes in Eric Bana for new fragrance
Luxury brand Bulgari has roped in film and television actor Eric Bana for the launch of its new men’s fragrance, Bulgari Man Extreme. The fragrance, which is slated for the March launch, has been created by Firmenich’s Alberto Morillas. The new scent will be inspired by Roman emperors and ‘a modern hero of great stature’.
Inter Parfums SA reports 349 pc hike
Paris-based leading fragrance manufacturer and distributor Inter Parfums SA has reported a rise of 349 per cent in its net profits for the year 2012, with an increase in its net income at €135.9 million for the 12 months ended December 31. Operating Profits also witnessed an increase of 360 per cent to €212.8 million, excluding the Burberry license discontinuation where in the operating income rose by 23 per cent.
Shiseido awarded World's Most Ethical Companies designation
Shiseido Co Ltd has been selected and awarded the 2013 World’s Most Ethical Companies designation for the second consecutive year. The announcement was made by the Ethisphere Institute, a US-based international think-tank dedicated to advocating best practices in business..
continue to own his company known as Scent 2 Market, a design, development and supply chain management company in the air care segment. Symrise and Scent 2 Market have also entered into an exclusive supply agreement. In accordance with that agreement, S2M will work closely with Symrise to satisfy its fragrance compound needs. beauty launchpad | 04.13
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Global *
news now
Ashland announces Skin’s Ecology, an initiative for probiotic effects
HBA 2013 to unveil tailored fragrance pavilion
6
Ashland Care Specialties, a business unit of Ashland Specialty Ingredients, has announced Skin’s Ecology, an initiative in support of new products that help normalise microflora on the surface of skin. The skin’s natural probiotic defenses are supported by antimicrobial peptides and are essential in the skin’s ongoing fight against undesirable microorganisms. Ashland will show how a biofunctional ingredient based on flax seed may be used to support cathelicidin and ß-defensin antimicrobial peptides, an important class of biological peptides necessary to maintain a proper ecosystem balance on skin. “Probiotics are consumed by millions of people every day to help balance the body’s inner microflora. Likewise, it may be possible to enhance the natural microbiome and biochemical shield on the surface of skin with a topical cream containing Lipigenine™ biofunctional,” said Justine Cotton, marketing manager, skin care biofunctionals, Ashland Care Specialties. “Inspiration for our biofunctional derived from flax seed comes from the process pertaining to skin’s own lipid production in the stratum corneum, which goes beyond a physical barrier function to include a biochemical shield against the proliferation of undesirable microorganisms.”
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beauty launchpad | 04.13
7
HBA Global Expo and Conference is launching an HBA Global Juried Pavilion – ‘Splash! on Fragrance’ – to present the latest fragrances, candles, and scented consumer goods. The new pavilion will be launched at the event scheduled on June 18-20, 2013 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York. This curated area on the exhibit floor will feature the latest finished goods in the fragrance market including perfumes, colognes, aromatherapy products, and home scents. Fragrance-
related offerings such as candles, scent diffusers, fragrance oils, personal care products, and other product offerings using scent in innovative ways will also be considered. Participation in Splash! on Fragrance is limited and acceptance is based on jury review. The jury will include press, bloggers, retailers, brand experts and entrepreneurs who have demonstrated a passion and commitment to mentoring and supporting independent and emergent talent within the fragrance industry.
Sumitomo forms cosmetic ingredients business in Brazil
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Sumitomo Corporation, Sumitomo Corporation of America and Sumitomo Corporation do Brasil SA have entered an agreement to form a joint cosmetic ingredient distribution business with a leading major supplier of cosmetic ingredients and pet supplies in Brazil, Cosmotec Especialidades Químicas Ltda. Cosmotec will spin off its cosmetic ingredient distribution business into a separate company, in which Sumitomo Corporation Group will be an investor. “We are looking forward to collaborating with the Sumitomo Corporation Group and Presperse in expanding our cosmetic
business globally by utilising our extensive networks and established infrastructures in the Brazil and South America market,” said Luciano Fagliari, President and CEO, Cosmotec. “We will continue our prosperous relationships with our existing suppliers, and basic policies while enhancing our global reach, and service to customers in Brazil.” Luciano Fagliari will remain as CEO of the new company. Sumitomo Corporation will work closely with Presperse and Cosmotec and leverage new global procurement capabilities with the goal of expanding their business throughout South America and further developing the cosmetic and personal care market.