Irish Beauty Spring/Summer 2024 Issue 145

Personalised Membership Portal

Your very own personalised membership portal where you can climb from blue to beyond and earn points and rewards along the way. A safe place where you can check your insurance details and documentation and it is here you can utilise our ‘Find the Nearest’ marketing tools as well.

Publisher

Dave Horton dave@irishbeauty.ie

Editorial

Melissa Dennis melissa@irishbeauty.ie Design

Darren Hassett darren@irishbeauty.ie

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Shaun Peaty shaun@irishbeauty.ie +44 1789 336888 +44 7837 206218

Marketing

Amelia Black amelia@irishbeauty.ie

Ella Figgitt ella@irishbeauty.ie

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AIT Membership & Insurance

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From the Editor

After a little while away, I’m delighted that Irish Beauty magazine is back in print, bringing you the latest new product and treatment reveals, in-depth feature and business advice. Published in partnership with membership and insurance provider AIT,Irish Beauty remains a trusted voice for beauty and nail professionals with the aim of supporting you to be the best professional you can be. We’re publishing this issue to coincide with the return of Professional Beauty & Hair which we’re very proud is run in partnership with Irish Beauty. The only trade event of its kind taking place this year, it’s set to be a huge date in the beauty industry calendar and we’re looking forward to seeing you there. Come and visit the AIT and Irish Beauty team on stand A17, where existing and new members can claim a host of membership benefits including your free AIT Goody Bag!

It can be lonely running a beauty business but making connections can be a game changer for your mental health and career success. Attending trade events offers a fabulous opportunity to network with peers, establish business contacts and build your support network. Take a look at Business Mentor Katie Godfrey’s advice on the importance of business friendships in her article on page 26.

Continuing the self-care theme, we understand how much working in a busy salon or mobile business can take out of you. You’ve not only chosen to dedicate yourself to enhancing clients’ appearance but also their feelings of wellbeing, selfesteem and confidence. But who cares for you?

With this in mind, we’re working with experts to share their advice on how you, as a beauty professional, can best deal with demanding work schedules, stress, fatigue and mental strain.

For our first installment, we call on the expertise of Rebecca Attle, a Nutritional Therapist who tells us how consuming the right food and drink can help you to power through a busy salon day; see page 66.

Look after your body and mind and you’ll find even more satisfaction and reward from your vocation. Take a look at www.irishbeauty.ie for more self-care support over the coming months.

Best wishes

Melissa Dennis, Editor

Industry News

Alfaparf Milano celebrates mentoring programme graduates

Ten talented and creative hairdressers have graduated from a 12-month long mentoring programme taking place in Alfaparf Milano Professional academies in Ireland, the UK and Italy.

Members of the Alfaparf Milano Professional Architects of Design (AOD) team celebrated the completion of the programme with a recent photoshoot at the Alfaparf Milano Academy in London. They included Wayne Chartley, Pont Smith, Ben Newby, Michael Paraliki, Maria Haberlin, Triona Hollian, Grace Marie Bardon, Jolene McCarthy, Gillian Woods and Lynsey Cleland.

The programme’s cohort was mentored by national and international stylists including Paul Stafford (Northern Ireland), Alan Keville (Ireland), Alessandro Fratini (Italy), Richard Ashforth (UK), Alan Austin Smith (UK), Ramiro Mata (Spain), Oni Quadrino and Emanuele Vona (Italy), and Piero Gentile (UK).

Xpert Professional: www.xpertprofessional.ie

Sweet Squared launches online CND education programme

CND’s distributor for Ireland, Sweet Squared, has revealed a new CND™ Online Certification Programme created to make training more accessible.

The programme comprises individual 60-minute classes covering CND Brisa™ and Liquid and Powder Systems, Shellac™ and Plexigel™.

Classes will be delivered online with in-depth insights and practical techniques to enable you to expand your knowledge and elevate your treatments.

Participants will gain access to exclusive CND™ promotions and upon completion of the course, will receive a window sticker to highlight your certification.

Sweet Squared: www.sweetsquared.com

The Alfaparf Milano Professional AOD Team with David Donnellan (far right) on behalf of Alfaparf Milano Professional and Piero Gentile (far left) Technical Educator for Alfaparf Milano Professional.

epres™ names global stylists as new brand advocates

epres™ has introduced a new Global Ambassador Program, welcoming a roster of celebrity stylists from across the globe.

The brand, available from Sweet Squared Ltd, offers salon professionals and clients epres™ bond repair treatments, including a salonexclusive one-step solution to re-bond hair structures during chemical services.

The new epres™ Global Ambassador Program now welcomes Bradley Leake, Liz Jung, Reece Walker, Justyne Mann, Barbara Thompson, Tia Lambourn, Liam Robinson, Mathide Heather, Jason Anthony, Imogen Rose, Charlotte Rowley, Helena Lily and Jaye Edwards as brand advocates. They will share tips on using epres™ Bond Repair products for professionals in the salon and consumers at home.

Sweet

Squared:www.sweetsquared.com

Phorest hosts 8th global Salon Owners Summit

Earlier this year around 600 delegates from across the globe gathered in Dublin as Phorest Salon Software hosted its 8th annual Salon Owners Summit in partnership with colour management software brand Vish.

Dedicated to the hair, beauty and medi-aesthetic industries, the two-day event brought together a diverse group of speakers, including Founder of WAH Nails Sharmadean Reid, MBE, to discuss the latest trends and opportunities.

In addition, delegates attended workshops covering Social Media, Phorest Software Development, Medi-Aesthetics Software Developments, the Art of Getting Things Done, Salon Sustainability Solutions and Tipping Legislation Insights.

Phorest founder and CEO Ronan Perceval comments:

“The Salon Owners Summit represents everything we are truly passionate about at Phorest and reinforces why I fell in love with this industry 20 years ago. To have our customers, partners, and industry speakers in one room, celebrating, sharing, and networking together is electric.”

Phorest Salon Owners Summit: www.salonownersummit.com

Perma Jewel achieves AIT Accreditation

Brought to you by the team behind Inverness Ear Piercing, we’re delighted to confirm that training in Perma Jewel is now AIT Accredited.

Permanent jewellery enables you to offer an additional service in your salon, with personalised pieces that reflect clients’ individuality and life milestones. Chains in a variety of styles and metals (Sterling Silver, 14ct Gold Filled, 9ct, 14ct, 18ct Gold) are welded and permanently affixed, with optional add-on charms and connectors creating an individual and distinctive piece of jewellery for clients to treasure.

During your AIT Accredited training, you’ll learn how to use welding tools included within the kit and be subsequently supported through building a successful Perma Jewel business.

Perma Jewel: www.permajewel.co.uk

Armani announces Hiromi Ueda in Global MUA role

Hiromi Ueda has been named as the Global Makeup Artist at Armani, succeeding Linda Cantello who has left the role after 15 years.

Hiromi has acted as guest makeup artist at the Armani Privé couture and Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani shows and recent marketing campaigns.

Born in Osaka, Japan, Hiromi Ueda studied in the UK before beginning her journey as an MUA at Westminster College in London. She gained experience assisting Alex Box, Diane Kendal and Petros Petrohilos.

Commenting on Instagram, Hiromi Ueda says:

“I am absolutely thrilled to be joining Armani Beauty as the Global Makeup Artist. I am fully committed to contribute positively to the Armani team, giving my utmost dedication, as well as using my creativity to support this new chapter in the evolution of Armani Beauty.”

Licenced to L’Oréal, Armani Beauty’s colour collection was created in collaboration with MUA Pat McGrath.

Armani Beauty: www.armani.com

Ukrainian therapists turn to CACI

More than two years since the Russian invasion of Ukraine and the devastation seen across much of the country, Ukrainian beauty businesses are treating the effects of stress on clients’ skin.

Hanna Bezyk (pictured), who owns The Beauty Agency in Kyiv, uses CACI devices to deliver her treatments and feels that ensuring her CACI clients feel good is of utmost importance, despite appointment changes due to air raids. In addition to lifting and toning the muscles, CACI treatments can also assist with targeting specific skin concerns and skin rejuvenation.

She says:

“Of course - it is difficult to work in such a difficult time, but if you help people to be beautiful and healthy, it is usually followed by grateful clients.

“Nowadays, many women have problems due to a high-stress factor and chronic lack of sleep. We are noticing clients coming in with conditions, such as acne, rosacea, and sensitive skin.”

CACI: www.cacibeauty.com

Dibi Milano partners with London flagship clinic

Dibi Milano, available from Xpert Professional, has revealed a flagship clinic partnership with Dr L’Art Aesthetic Clinic in London.

The clinic is run by leading aesthetic physician Dr Dianni Dai, who has also joined Dibi Milano’s Medical Advisory Board and been appointed as a Key Opinion Leader for the brand.

Thomas Klein, Sales Director for Dibi Milano, comments:

“We are thrilled to be in partnership with Dr Dianni and to be part of such an incredible state-of-the-art facility, dedicated to revolutionising, aesthetics, skincare and wellness. As the first flagship for Dibi Milano, our collaboration aims to redefine standards and set new benchmarks in the industry. With Dr Dianni’s incredible experience and passion for aesthetics coupled with Dr L’Art, her new sanctuary of beauty and rejuvenation, we are excited to watch our brands grow together over the coming years.”

Dibi Milano / Xpert Professional: www.xpertprofessional.ie

Get creative with temporary Jagua body art

Did you know that your AIT Full Therapist Membership covers Jagua Tattoos?

Similar in appearance to a Henna Tattoo, Jagua Tattoos are temporary body art using an ink created from the juice of the Jagua Fruit and Xanthan Gum. With a blue/ black colour, Jagua ‘ink’ will stain the skin for 10 – 14 days.

Adding Jagua Tattoos to your membership and insurance is subject to achieving a nationally recognised or AIT Accredited qualification, following all normal procedures and safety protocols including client consultation and patch testing as well as notifying the AIT team of your recent qualification.

Cork spa launches Salt Room wellbeing package

The sumptuous Bellevue Spa at The Montenotte in Cork has introduced a ‘Salt & Serenity’ mid-week package.

Scientifically proven to benefit the respiratory system and skin, the hotel’s Salt Room features in excess of 1,400 salt bricks imported directly from the Himalayas in Pakistan. The salt-infused air promotes relaxation and rejuvenation thanks to the room’s therapeutic ambiance.

The Salt & Serenity Package is a 100-minute retreat to alleviate stress and promote holistic well-being. Guests can enjoy a 40-minute treatment in the Salt Room where they sip on herbal tea whilst their body absorbs therapeutic natural minerals. This is followed by a 60-minute Urban Destress Massage using soothing techniques that promote deep relaxation, ease tension and restore balance. The Montenotte: www.themontenottehotel.com

Complement your treatments with retail

We know that not everything you retail to your clients will be a skin, nail or body care product. Sometimes you may wish to offer wellbeing items that complement your treatments and we’re happy to confirm that these are usually covered under the Product Liability cover of your AIT Membership and insurance. In some cases due to new products and an ever changing landscape within the wellbeing industry they need further investigation.

We were recently contacted by a Complementary Therapy Member offering Reiki and Indian Head Massage at a holistic fayre who wanted to retail Affirmation Cards that they had created to support clients’ wellbeing journey. We were delighted to confirm that their AIT membership did in fact cover the retail of these cards, which aim to reduce stress, boost selfconfidence and promote a positive mindset.

AIT members should check their policy wording for full details of what is covered under Product Liability and contact the AIT team if further clarification is required.

OSMO Educator named Irish Hair Council President

Debbie O’Keefe Crinnion has been named President of the Irish Hair Council for 2024/25.

Owner of Montana Blu Hairdressing Academy in Fermoy, Co. Cork and OSMO’s Head of Education for Ireland and Northern Ireland, Debbie previously acted as Vice President supporting Mary Duffy in her role of President for 2023/24.

Debbie opened her first salon in 2017 and has worked in the hair sector for 25 years. She has a passion for supporting learners, describing herself as a facilitator rather than educator.

The Irish Hair Council supports 3,000 hair salon businesses in Ireland, offering advice on employment, apprenticeships and training as well as lobbying government on related issues.

Irish Hair Council: www.hairdressingcouncil.ie

Harpar Grace strengthen global team

Laila Asid has joined Harpar Grace International (HGI) as PRO Global Sales Recruit for their Déesse PRO brand to support international expansion. Products include the PRO by Déesse PRO hard shell format LED light therapy device.

Commenting on the appointment, Alana Chalmers, CEO of HGI, says:

“Laila, a certified medical professional, joins us with a wealth of global sales, strategy, and operational experience of over 20 years and has a track record of spearheading rapid sales expansion and delivering profitable outcomes in over 50 countries. Laila’s market experience with particular reference to cultivating distributor, spa and professional channel relationships and growth aligns with our trajectory and vision for Déesse PRO, our flagship wellness technology brand, in the year ahead.”

Harpar Grace International (HGI): www.harpargrace.com

Wednesday star joins Lancôme

Joy Sunday has been named as a new Global Ambassador for cosmetics brand Lancôme.

The Nigerian-American actress, producer and director has most recently portrayed Bianca Barclay in Netflix’s Wednesday.

Commenting on her new role, Joy Sunday says: “Lancôme has always been a brand that I have admired for its commitment to empowering women and inspiring us to be the best versions of ourselves. I believe these values are crucial in today’s world, and I am proud to represent and collaborate with a brand that shares my beliefs.”

Francoise Lehmann, Lancôme Global Brand President, adds:

“We are honoured to welcome Joy to the Lancôme family. Her exceptional talent, unwavering passion, and fresh and young energy are truly inspiring.”

Lancôme: www.lancome.ie

Revlon appoints new Global Brand Ambassador

Madelyn Cline has been named as the new face of Revlon. As Global Brand Ambassador, the 26-year-old actor will feature across the brand’s full marketing mix including global campaigns and on in-store displays.

Commenting on her latest role, Madelyn Cline says:

“I love makeup and it’s been a dream of mine to partner with a brand as iconic as Revlon. I couldn’t be more excited to join the ranks of Ashley Graham, Megan Thee Stallion, and all of the amazing Global Brand Ambassadors who came before them.”

Martine Williamson, Chief Marketing Officer at Revlon, adds:

“At Revlon, we strive to create a more liberated beauty that embodies independence, confidence, and inspiration. Whether it’s through her on-screen roles or in her everyday life, Madelyn personifies our mission of living boldly in everything she does. Her confidence and focus on self-love make her an incredible role model for young adults. With a natural affinity for beauty, Madelyn is the perfect fit for a Revlon Global Ambassador, and we’re overjoyed to welcome her to our family.”

Revlon: www.revlon.com

Lash Dolls Academy to mentor future Educators

AIT Accredited Lash Doll’s Beauty Academy has launched a bespoke Train the Trainer course tailored exclusively for beauty professionals.

Taking place in Ratoath, Co. Meath, the programme is run by Lash Doll’s founder Karen Grehan, who shares her expertise as an Educator and business owner, mentoring participants with knowledge gained over years of experience.

Course content will cover the role of an Educator, what is required to run a training course, teaching methods and techniques, evaluation of students and giving feedback, creating a training manual and lesson plans and how to get accredited.

Pre-requisites are 12+ months’ experience in the treatment you wish to teach, and be fully qualified with an accredited certificate in each treatment prior to training. The course is accredited by AIT.

Lash Doll’s Beauty Academy: www.lashdolls.ie

Wicklow Body Painter

Steals the Show!

Irish Beauty winner Danielle Fitzgerald triumphs at London competition.

Last May, Irish Beauty and AIT were delighted to organise the Irish Beauty Makeup Competition held in partnership with Professional Beauty & Hair, and were thrilled to crown Danielle Fitzgerald (@misfitz_ MUA) as overall winner. Ten months later, Danielle travelled to London as part of her prize to compete in the Professional Beauty Makeup Competition, and guess what, she only went and won!

Danielle, a tutor at Carlow Institute of Further Education and Training (@carlowinstitute_makeup), competed in the Body Painting category with the theme of Natural Elements. We were delighted to catch up with her in London to celebrate her win and find out how she consistently achieves success…

Tell us about the inspiration behind your design

“Our theme for this competition was The Elements. Initially I thought of the usual things like Fire, Wind, Earth and Water and how to represent them, but I always develop my idea several times to try and have something different from my competitors.

“I ended up settling on the idea of glass blowing as this needs all the elements to be achieved. Being from Waterford, I had to represent my County.

“I wanted my costume design to look like holographic glass or when you see a prism of glass and light shining through it with the beautiful rainbow effect it causes.”

What are the stages in formulating a design and how long does it take?

“It takes several weeks to formulate the idea; I find it’s like exercise, the more you do it the faster you get at figuring it out.

“I usually start with a lot of research, which leads me down the road of discovery until “I finally have a feeling for what I want it to be.

“Next, I will do a body chart and figure out placement and colours. Using my mannequin torso, I practice and figure out the layout based on my body chart. Most of the time I hate [the design] at this point and go back to the drawing board and rejig it a bit. This is where you can lose faith a bit but it’s all part of the process.

“All the way through this process I work on the costume and prosthetics, which like the body paint, changes as I go, and tend to inspire each other until

“Turning my model into a Goddess is always my goal. Whatever the theme is I always seem to end up there, regal and powerful. If I can make them feel confident to walk around in my paint and costume, I have done a

“Depending on the competition, you get a different amount of time to paint. For this look it was four hours, which sounds like a lot but it goes by in a second. So when I am

planning for a competition with this much time I have to be realistic about what I can achieve.

“I like to make headpieces, capes, shoes and different accessories, so if I am doing all of these things in one look, I make sure they tie in with the paint the whole way through the planning.

“The fabric in the cape was pivotal in the colour palette of the paint, so sometimes as I said before, the costume influences the theme.

“As I am researching, I save pictures all the way through, building a mood board which by the time it is competition time, I can cut out and stick all my ideas together. This is a really important step because it lets the judges see into your mind and helps them understand your plan”.

What are your favourite products that are always in your kit bag?

“My top favourite products are:

1. DFX Essential Pale Green

2. Mehron Metallic Gold and Mixing Solution

3. Kryolan Fixing Spray

“My favourite thing to have in my bag is my Kabuki brushes, these are so important to get a beautiful blend and ombre effect in your paint. These can be inexpensive Kabuki brushes and having several in your kit is the ideal set up.”

What advice would you give to makeup artists hoping to compete in the future?

“My advice is simple, if you are nervous about competing then work hard on everything that you can do before you even get to competition day. Get all the small points you can, for example make sure your costume idea is strong, that you have read the rules and have everything perfect, a consultation card, you’re wearing black, have neat hair and makeup, bottles labelled etc; all these points add up, so read the rules!

“Plan out your look and when you’re practicing, have a list of times (for each section) and where you need to be at certain points. If your model is eager to help they could let you know if you are running behind and need to speed up.”

What’s next for you professionally?

“I am competing again at the end of March in Liverpool and then in Dublin again at the Professional Beauty and Hair Show. In September I am competing in the online competition for the World Bodypainting Competition in Austria; I am hoping to go there next year in person to compete.

“I will continue to teach in my dream job where I hope that I inspire students to take a chance and bodypaint.”

Read more about Danielle and see how she created her winning design online at www.irishbeauty.ie

Mac

IInternationally acclaimed James Mac (@jmac_mua), past winner of the Irish Beauty Makeup Competition, held his first gallery exhibition Makeup X Art recently, a special showcase of his creations and collaborations to demonstrate unconventional ways to connect with makeup.

Irish Beauty was delighted to be invited to celebrate James’ success at the launch evening at The Morley Gallery, attended by a host of industry names.

Since making his name as runner up on BBC/ Netflix’s series Glow Up Season 2, James has exploded onto the scene as one of the most creative and innovative makeup artists of his generation. Such was the impression he made, he was subsequently invited to guest judge RTÉ’s Glow Up Ireland.

Makeup X Art sponsored by MAC Cosmetics showcased 17 makeup looks telling a multitude of stories including an insight into James’ personal story which he describes as “a queer, Irish person living with Tourette’s syndrome.”

A graduate of Dublin City University with a degree in Multimedia Studies, James majored in photography and visual communications, lending itself to his current work. He honed his makeup artistry skills at VanityX Make-up Academy in Dublin.

Glow Up

SUCCESS

curates first creative showcase

Prior to his success on Glow Up in 2020, James won the creative student category at the Irish Beauty Makeup Competition 2018 and in the same year was first runner-up in the Irish Body Painting Championships student category.

As a senior professional makeup artist now based in London, he has worked on runway looks for global brands including L’Oreal Paris and MAC Cosmetics, collaborated with the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier and Mugler, and boasts an enviable celebrity client list.

Makeup Artist

James Mac

celebrates unconventional connections with makeup.

What’s next for James following the success of his inaugural exhibition? He is currently hosting masterclasses for YSL Beauty UK, demonstrating techniques at global industry events and is Senior Head of Creative – Editorial Artistry at Aliya Baig Academy of Makeup in Hyderabad, India. Going forward he aims to build a freelance career outside of social media, focussing on training, celebrity clientele, fashion, editorial and creative transformations.

James

James Mac

“James has

James Mac

exploded onto the scene as one of the most creative and innovative makeup artists of his generation”

James Mac

Makeup Artist James Mac Inerney celebrates the opening of Makeup X Art with parents Tony and Bernie MacInerney.

Images reproduced by kind permission of James Mac.

Accreditation

AIT Accreditation is a simple, low cost and extremely efficient way to step out of the crowd and show your potential students that you are approved, endorsed and eligible to offer, on completion of your courses, AIT membership and insurance packages to them.

AIT Accreditation isn’t just a logo, or a membership, it allows you to instil confidence and provide guidance to your potential students that they can get insurance with AIT. Once insured your students can continue practicing on the public with the new skills they have learnt.

A successful application would allow you access to the use of our accreditation logo, insurance for your students, as well as loads of membership benefits to becoming an AIT Accredited member.

To complete the Accreditation process go to: www.aitireland.com or call +44 1789 773 573

The beauty of

Business Friendships

It can be lonely being in business but making connections can be a game changer for you and your business, says Katie Godfrey.

RRight now everyone is craving connection. After the last few years of the C word, being careful and slowly built back up, people are ready more than ever to get out again.

Our businesses are starting to get back to the normal highs and clients are loving the experience of being back in the salon. I don’t know about you, but a lot of our clients after Covid narrowed their treatments down. If they used to have two or three treatments, they came back to just having one treatment. But this is changing drastically, and clients are having several treatments again, which means business is on the up!

However it’s not just clients wanting connection again, it’s us business owners. We are starting to see the exhibitions getting busier again, networking opportunities, events taking place and retreats being planned. In January I hosted my first ever business retreat in Marrakesh. This was a retreat for those that are part of my 12-month mastermind. We had the most incredible three days

learning, being inspired and having a load of fun. But what did everyone love the most? The connection and the chat between each other with someone that “just gets it” and making those friendships.

It’s lonely being in business, sometimes I think even more so in the beauty, hair and aesthetic space. Friends, family and teams don’t understand our day-to-day; the stresses of running a business, trying to get clients through the door and the worry about evergrowing overheads.

So can you imagine being surrounded with people just like you. Also, the buzz and motivation everyone had when they got home to grow their business and put everything they learnt into action. It was powerful.

If currently you are not spending time with other professionals or do not have a network to bounce off, I highly recommend you do something to change this. It’s a game changer for you personally and to keep you strong in business.

Where can you get that in-person connection?

1. Join a membership

There are many memberships out there you can join. This helps you be part of a whole community that can support you daily, plus learn. I started my membership during Covid and its still going strong today. Some businesses joined the first day we launched and are still members today. People have had support when they feel like they are alone and it’s a safe space to offload.

2. Go to networking events

There are local breakfast meet ups everywhere, where you can connect with other businesses in the area. These are good to gain clients into your business through referrals and build up your local network.

3. Go to industry exhibitions

It’s an opportunity to keep up to date with industry trends but also you can network with brands and meet up with those you have built relationships with online.

4. Book onto an event!

You really get that in-person connection and buzz when you go to an industry event. Last year I spoke at many events and each one I attended was fabulous. A day of learning to go away and implement into your business, having chats and building relationships with likeminded people, and we can’t forget the content you can get for your socials too. I’m hosting a live event on 28th April called Marketing Made Easy sponsored by Phorest Software. I would love to see you there!

Doing things like the above can feel scary and out of your comfort zone, but giving yourself a little push to do just one thing will make a big difference to the connection you feel as well as pushing your business. Give it ago

“Friends and family don’t understand our stresses of running a business, getting clients through the door and the worry about evergrowing overheads.”

Katie Godfrey is a Business Strategist and Mentor, and CEO of KG Professional. www.katiegodfrey.co.uk www.kgbusinessmentor.teachable.com

What’s New in Beauty

Sustainable gifts for grooming care

Ecohomme has revealed new Shave and Beard Kits, ideal for salons and barbershops to retail. There are two kits to choose from featuring handmade and organic products: the EcoHomme Skincare & Shave Kit and the EcoHomme Beard Box.

The Skincare & Shave Kit contains Organic Pillow Mist, Botanical Shave and Cleansing Oil, Organic Face Moisturiser & Aftershave Balm and a sustainably-sourced Bamboo Razor.

The EcoHomme Beard Box includes Organic Beard and Moustache Oil, Organic Beard Balm and Moustache Wax with Irish Beeswax, Organic Pillow Spray and a sustainably-sourced Beard Comb. Both are presented in recyclable

He-Shi launches latest evolution in Express Liquid Tan

Irish tan brand He-Shi has launched the latest evolution in its Express Liquid Tan to deliver an even richer deeper tan.

He-Shi Dark Express Liquid Tan has an instant colour guide so you can be sure all areas are covered with a deep tan developing. Rich in antioxidants and free of parabens and alchohol, the 94% natural formulation drenches skin in hydration to ensure a long-lasting result which fades naturally over 7-10 days.

Hilary McMurray, He-Shi Founder, says:

“Express Liquid Tan remains a hero product all over the island of Ireland, 20 years on. Introducing our second version to commemorate our 20th year is yet another remarkable milestone in our enduring legacy.”

4BeautyGroup: www.4beautygroup.com/he-shi

Lyma develops professional skin rejuvenating laser

Home beauty device Lyma Laser is set to enter the professional sector with the launch of the Lyma Laser Pro.

Developed by WellTech™, the original Lyma Laser launched in 2020 as the first clinic-grade laser cleared for use at home. Although designed to be used by consumers, since its launch, the device has been adopted by professionals in salons and clinics.

With this in mind, the company has re-engineered its laser technology to create a professional device.

The Lyma Laser Pro is three times more powerful than the home system, offering a continuous and ultra-diffused 1450mW laser. It has a larger treatment area of 33cm2 (compared to 8.5cm2 on the original model) with deeply biostimulating (808nm) laser technology that penetrates to a depth of up to 10cm. This means that skin can be remodelled from the base layer without causing pain or cell damage.

Treatments possible range from facials to neck sagging, scarring, cellulite and combatting ‘bingo wings’.

Lyma: www.lyma.life

Treat ageing, acne & wellbeing with new light therapy mask

Déesse PRO have launched the first medical-grade LED mask to feature near-infrared 1070nm wavelength technology to treat the effects of ageing and acne whilst also addressing clients’ wellbeing.

An FDA-cleared Class II Medical device, the Déesse PRO EOS-X is designed in the UK and precision-engineered in Korea.

Five clinically-proven wavelengths of blue, green, red, near-infrared and 1070nm light biostimulate on multiple levels. It has two medical modes for treating ageing and acneic skins. In addition, there are three skin-focused treatment modes to target hyperpigmentation, photoageing, rosacea, PIH and post-procedure recovery. A new contoured neck attachment integrates blue light for targeting ageing and problematic skin.

What’s more, two wellness treatment modes address conditions including disrupted sleep, low-level anxiety, depleted energy, adrenal fatigue, serotonin deficiency and circadian rhythm health.

Harpar Grace International (HGI): www.harpargrace.com

Caflon reveal new summer crystal piercing studs

Caflon Ear Piercing has introduced two new collections of crystal 4mm 24ct gold plated ear piercing studs.

Launching in time for summer, the six new colours of bezel set crystal studs come in a choice of Crystal Tropics (pictured) or Crystal Opals in packs of four of each colour. Crystal Tropics includes Bermuda Blue Tropics, Vitrail Light Tropics and Fuchsia Tropics. The Crystal Opals collection features Rose Crystal Opal, Light Sapphire Crystal Opal and White Crystal Opal.

Captial Hair & Beauty: www.capitalhairandbeauty.ie

Dermalogica reveals new two-phase peel to tackle dark spots

Dermalogica has launched Melanopro Peel System to reduce hyperpigmentation in less than six weeks.

This two-phase, clinical-strength peel visibly counteracts environmental skin damage including the appearance of hyperpigmentation such as melasma and sun spots whilst smoothing the skin’s texture to reveal a brighter complexion.

Suitable for all skin tones, treatment begins in the salon with an application of Day One Peeling Masque for an intense exfoliation, left on the skin for two to seven hours and removed by the client at home.

This is followed with an application of Dermalogica Continuous Resurfacing Cream two to three times a day for up to six weeks to stimulate continuous exfoliation.

During the six-week treatment period, skin can be soothed and hydrated by using Dermalogica UltraCalming Mist which eases any redness or sensitivity.

Dermalogica’s Melanopro Peel System can be used alone or as part of a professional skin treatment plan combining Laser, IPL, microneedling or dermaplaning.

Dermalogica: https://pro.dermalogica.co.uk

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Balance skin with Éminence’s probiotic cleanser

Éminence Organic Skincare has introduced Clear Skin Probiotic Cleanser to balance and treat oily and/or acne prone skin.

With a cream-gel consistency, this clarifying cleanser is formulated with Éminence’s Biocomplex2™, a booster of antioxidants that restores skin radiance, vitality and strength. In addition, Cucumber juice tones and reduces the appearance of pores, yoghurt exfoliates thanks to its Lactic acid content, Sweet Almond Milk nourishes, Tea Tree essential oil treats breakouts and Willow Bark Extract acts as an astringent.

Through regular use, skin is calmed, the appearance of blemishes is reduced with skin purified and detoxified.

Éminence formulates products free of parabens, sodium lauryl sulphates, synthetic dyes, petrochemicals, phthalates, GMOs and triclosan.

Éminence Organic Skincare: www.eminence.ie

Bio-Therapeutic develop new microcurrent facial probe

Bio-Therapeutic has launched a new microcurrent device for facial toning and lifting.

The new bt-sculpt® PRO facial electrode probe delivers two channels and four pathways with the convenience of singlehanded use.

The bt-sculpt PRO probe connects to the bt-nano® or Bio-Ultimate® Platinum, in place of standard probes, both of which feature Suzuki Sequencing, a proprietary form of microcurrent that delivers frequency specific waveshapes over two channels.

Experts

in their field, Bio-Therapeutic’s True

Microcurrent is computer calibrated 1,024 times every second, to ensure optimum current delivery to the skin, overcoming common issue of variable conductivity of different facial zones due to oiliness, skin thickness and hydration levels.

Bio-Therapeutic: www.bio-therapeutic.online

Are your clients taking advantage of you?

Marie-Louise Coster explains how to set the right boundaries with clients.

IIt is very common when you work for yourself (as a sole trader, self employed in a business or a salon owner) to want to please your clients all of the time. After all the customer is always right, aren’t they?

No actually, they aren’t always right, and quite often they take liberties and we allow them to do so because we are afraid. We are afraid of upsetting the customer and are very conscious that we don’t want to lose them. But if they are taking advantage of you what is there to lose? They are taking the space that another client, who isn’t taking the mickey, could have.

Which is why we need to set clear boundaries on our working hours, when we are available to reply to messages and take calls and many other factors in our business.

Sacking a bad client

I remember a client I sacked very well. I sacked her because she was taking advantage of me. She had been coming to me off and on for many years, always quibbled about price, often asking for a discount. She had an operation which meant she couldn’t drive for a period of time, so she called and asked if I would do a home visit. I am not a mobile therapist but I wanted to accommodate her as best I could, it seemed only right.

She only lived 10 minutes from me so it all seemed reasonable. But of course the 10 minute journey isn’t just it, is it? I needed to add set up time, packing away time, time for her to faff with jobs she was doing in the house, driving home time etc. My one hour facial became almost two hours of my time, so besides the travel cost (which I didn’t charge her any extra for) there were added costs of lost revenue as, during that hour, I could have been doing another facial and earning €100.

This went on for a couple of years, each time her expecting more (helping her change the bedding, unpacking boxes for her, even assembling a lamp!) and then I discovered she was driving to a salon not far from me for a pedicure, all the while taking the mickey out of my good nature!

The day came when my car was off the road and I needed to move her appointment to earlier in the day when I would have access to my husband’s vehicle. She was very awkward about moving the time and even told me I should get a taxi to her! This was the final straw. I suggested that it would be better for everyone involved if she just found another salon to go to and we would leave it at that.

Setting firm boundaries

What I should have done, long before it got to this stage, is set firmer boundaries. Yes I am a sole trader. Yes of course I need regular and loyal clients so as I have a successful business and a wage coming in. But what I don’t need are ungrateful clients who take liberties.

You need to set your stall out from the outset and be firm about it. Only reply to calls and messages during your trading hours, not at 1pm on a Sunday when you are having lunch with your husband, or 8pm at night when you are putting the kids to bed. These are precious times and are not to be disrupted by a query that will wait until the morning. You have an email address and an answerphone, both will still be there the next day when you do read/listen and then reply. If the client wants you and your services they will wait until the morning.

“If the lines get blurred between client and friend, you open yourself up to people asking for discounts, special rates or even not paying.”

We are all far too accessible now with social media, email etc. and I am not sure it is a good thing. Back when I had a high street salon, we had a landline and after we closed for the day I had no idea whether anyone had called; the next day we would check the answerphone, reply to people and everyone was very accepting of that. Action an automated email reply and a greeting on your answerphone stating your hours of business and you will reply when you are next open.

Don’t blur the lines of relationships

The other thing you need to have boundaries over are client relationships and money. These are your clients, they are not your friends. Whilst you will be very fond of many of them, which is only natural, the lines should not be blurred between clients and friendships because this has a tendency to make things very messy. Keep a professional relationship at all times.

If the lines get blurred between client and friend, you open yourself up to the potential of people asking for discounts, special rates or even not paying because they are ‘a bit short this week’ and promising to pay you at a later date. You can’t run a business this way; keep your boundaries clear and stick to them.

Communicate, be clear, be firm, learn how to say “No” and always remember you are in charge. Never feel bad about doing what is best for you to ensure that you have strict working hours and clear personal hours to take care of yourself and your own wellbeing.

As we prep for a busy summer in the salon, it’s time to evaluate your waxing treatments, upgrade your kit and discover the very latest wax formulations that will elevate your services this season.

SummerSmooth

Hive® are launching a new premium hot wax that can be used over large or small treatment areas.

Hive® Vanilla & Black Pomegranate Hot Wax pellets has increased strength and plasticity and rich texture that can be spread thinly. This texture enables easy and comfortable removal in one step without breakage or the need for wax strips.

The Rosin-free formulation has a sophisticated and relaxing Vanilla and Black Pomegranate fragrance to elevate your wax treatments to a premium service.

Hive of Beauty Ltd: www.hiveofbeauty.co.uk

“I have seen a big increase in students learning male waxing skills from eyebrow waxing, using wax to tidy and sharpen beard lines, nostril waxing, napes of necks as well as more traditional back and chest waxing”

Lisa Stone, Salon System Educator

There’s lots of developments from Waxperts this season, with the introduction of a new College Wax in Hot Wax and Strip Wax formulations, developed exclusively for colleges and educators to use during training. This coincides with the launch of Waxperts’ new education programme being rolled out this year. Waxperts College Hot Wax comes in 5kg bags to be as cost effective as possible.

The product joins the brand’s extensive waxing collection which includes Original Hot Wax (pictured) for effective hair removal as short as 1mm on the face, underarm and intimate areas.

Waxperts: www.waxperts.ie

Lycon offer a full range of Hot Wax, Strip Wax and Lycojet formulations created from high quality resins, natural ingredients and aromatherapy oils.

Ideal for summer, Lycon’s So Berry Delicious Strip Wax has a delicious fresh strawberry fragrance and shimmers thanks to Micro Mica, adding a sense of luxury to a waxing treatment. The wax glides onto skin super thinly making it very economical and leaves no sticky residue during fast and gentle removal using waxing strips.

It comes in a heater-friendly 800ml jar for ease of use.

“Differentiate yourself from other businesses and create a unique selling proposition that sets you apart. This can help you attract new clients who are willing to pay a premium for quality services.”

Lycon

–

Developed for intimate waxing treatments, Oritree® Optimum Hot Wax is a gentle formulation that remains extremely pliable to enable fast and effective hair removal. Pure Beeswax provides a natural and effective base, helping the product to adhere to hairs as short as 2mm without sticking to the skin. This provides a more comfortable experience for clients.

In addition to being suitable for use in bikini wax treatments, this hot wax is also ideal for facial waxing as well as treatments on larger areas of the body.

This wax’s pellet form enables you to decant just what you need to ensure less wastage, and there’s no wax strips needed keeping costs down further.

Hive of Beauty Ltd: www.hiveofbeauty.co.uk

Waxing

“You will see clients asking for a slight twist to the traditional ‘Brazilian’ wax with the simply ‘runway strip’ being replaced with fun shapes and designs”Lisa Stone, Salon System Educator

wax:one is a premium Rosin-free wax enriched with skinnourishing ingredients that soothe and rejuvenate the skin whilst effectively removing hair with minimal pain.

wax:one Strip Wax is ideal for larger areas such as legs, arms and chest waxing, leaving no sticky residue on the skin when removed with wax strips.

Additionally, with a super thin consistency, wax:one Hot Wax has a low working temperature making it ideal for hair removal on sensitive skin and more delicate areas.

Both have a gender-neutral Grapefruit and Kiwi scent.

Sweet Squared: www.sweetsquared.com

Harley Hot Wax is formulated using the highest quality organic beeswax from Africa where bees feast on natural nectar and pollen in environments free from harmful chemicals to ensure purity, consistency and high performance.

This natural approach to ingredients honours the environment, the bees and ultimately the end product. By choosing to source its wax from Africa, Harley Waxing not only ensures superior quality but also supports ethical and sustainable beekeeping practices. Additional ingredients include pine tree resin and essential oils.

Harley Hot Wax is suitable for removing hair as short as 1mm from smaller more sensitive areas of the body. It has a low melt temperature, is removed without the need for waxing strips and does not leave a sticky residue. Fragrances include Aloe, Lavendar, Chocolate and Summer Fruits. Harley Waxing: www.harleywax.ie

For technicians who are passionate about delivering brilliant brow treatments, Beautiful Brows’ Easy Glide Wax has been crafted to provide a rich, smooth wax that glides seamlessly onto the delicate skin around the brow area.

Enriched with Passionfruit, BB’s Easy Glide Wax grips to even the shortest hairs, making waxing treatments precise and thorough. It can be spread thinly for easy application and enhanced client comfort and has a vibrant pink colour and fruity fragrance.

Beautiful Brows & Lashes: www.beautifulbrowsandlashes.com

“When you invest in high-quality waxing products you can provide services that are faster, more efficient and more effective. This can help you serve more clients in less time, increasing your overall productivity and profitability” –

Lycon

Salon System Multiflex wax is formulated with synthetic resins making this suitable for vegan clients.

With a low temperature melting point, the wax shrink wraps the hair as opposed to sticking to the hair and skin. The strong grip this creates enables multi-directional removal without the need for waxing strips so you can work easier and quicker.

The wax’s enhanced flexibility reduces snapping and hair breakage for a more comfortable experience.

Available in Tea Tree, Berrylicious and Tutti Fruiti fragrances, this ultra pliable wax is ideal for intimate waxing.

Salon System: www.salonsystem.com

Depilève are taking waxing back to its Brazilian origins with the launch of multi-directional Brasilia wax, formulated with Amazonian ingredients including calming Buruti Oil.

Depilève Brasilia Wax is formulated with Bio-based Plant Resin and the highest ever concentration of Pure Beeswax. This gives this flexible wax a unique elasticity, allowing it to be spread over entire sections of the body at a low temperate and then removed in one go without breaking. This wax is ideal for salons who only wish to work with a single wax product as it can be used on all skin and hair types and on all areas of the body. There’s also a range of Depilève pre- and postwaxing products to retail.

Beauty Wholesale Ltd: www.beautywholesale.ie

AIT

Aromawax offers a range of strip and hot waxes formulated to help you deliver a flawless waxing service.

Majority of the brand’s wax products are formulated with pure essential oils and natural rosins from pine trees and free from parabens. No matter which area you’re waxing, the range comprises gentle waxes for sensitive skin to powerful options for coarse hair.

Formulations include Lavendar, Tea Tree, Moroccan Gold and Warm Honee.

Flair Hair & Beauty Supplies: www.flair.ie

Cococera Wax is dermatologically tested to suit all hair types whether that be short, long or coarse on male and female clients thanks to the vacuum application technique.

The wax dries quickly aiding in speeding up your waxing treatments enabling you to fit in more treatments per day. Clients also get longer out of their waxing treatments, as Cococera removes hairs under the skin surface.

Following treatment there is no sticky residue and very little redness on the skin enabling your clients to go about their day including wearing makeup, going to the gym and applying deodorant.

Therapists receive free ongoing training once they have their Cococera Waxing qualification.

NSI Hair Nail and Beauty: www.nailandbeauty.ie

AIT

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What’s New in Nails

Bring on the Happy Vibes for Summer nails

Light Elegance have launched their Summer ’24 collection of gel polishes, hard gels and glitter gels inspired by the iconic care-free vibes of the ‘60s.

The Light Elegance Happy Vibes collection features six crème shades of P+ Gel Polish and Buttercream hard gel and a further six glitter P+ Glitter Gel Polish and LE Glitter Gel shades.

With a bright, vivid palette, the collection features blues, yellows, oranges, pinks, purples and greens.

Light Elegance: www.lightelegance.co.uk

Blooming gorgeous launch from Artistic Nail Design

Artistic Nail Design has revealed its spring colour launches with the Lucid Blooms Collection.

It feature six new vibrant shades that draw inspiration from seasonal blooms, including soft pastels and bold statement-making hues. The collection comprises Oh, So Vague!, a soft pink pearl; Don’t Wake Me Up, a sage green crème; Trance The Night Away, a purple shimmer; It Was All A Dream, a light metallic pink; Reality Check, a peachy nude shimmer; and Walking On Cloud 9, a blue crème.

Colours are available in Artistic Nail Design’s Colour Gloss Soak Off Gel Polish and Colour Revolution Reactive Nail Lacquer formulations.

In addition, new for the season are Striper Gels to create intricate lines, accents and details, and two new Flash Glitter gel polish shades with light-activated technology.

Sweet Squared: www.sweetsquared.com

Sweet Squared has launched a new 30-day risk free trial of CND™ Plexigel to enable you to try the professional builder gel range with confidence.

The CND™ Plexigel collection comprises five classic shades that can be used to lengthen, shape, build and protect nails delivering over three weeks of wear.

There are two ‘Try Me’ kit options to choose from, one for natural nails and one created for use with enhancements. In addition, free online education is offered to ensure you get the most out of your trial, plus you’ll receive €36 off your next CND™ Plexigel purchase.

Sweet Squared: www.sweetsquared.com

Bexy Glow reveals new Cover Acrylic additions

British nail brand Bexy Glow has launched new Cover Acrylic Powders in Coloured and Glitter formulations designed to suit all levels of skills from beginners to experienced nail techs.

The brand was founded by nail technicians Becky Willet and Paige Chohan in 2022. “Our aim is to inspire technicians to take chances and dare to do something new or different with their nail sets,” explains Becky.

Formulations are self-levelling, smooth and HEMA-free.

The Bexy Glow collection comprises plain colour and shimmer shades, Perfect Prep nail dehydrator, Perfect Bond acid-free nail primer and Perfect Gloss non-wipe top coat along with essentials including tips, brushes and files.

Bexy Glow: www.bexyglow.com

OPI launch 42 new Infinite Shine shades

OPI has introduced 42 new colours available exclusively in its Infinite Shine formulation of long-wear nail polish. This brings the Infinite Shine collection to 70 shades including 24 iconic OPI hues and four existing Infinite Shine shades.

In addition, Infinite Shine now has an improved vegan formulation providing up to 11 days of wear. Products are now packaged in a new bottle with a dark chrome cap and clean design.

Applying like a polish but giving the shine of a gel manicure, OPI Infinite Shine is chip- and scratch-resistant creating a high-shine plumping effect on the nail. For fast colour changes, it removes easily like a traditional nail polish.

The complete collection comprises crèmes, sheers, shimmers, glitters and metallics in a vast array of colours including Stunstoppable, a metallic bronze; No Chips on My Shoulder, a navy blue crème; and Good Redputation, a pearly red.

Hennessy Hair & Beauty Supplies: www.hennessyhb.ie

Get the look of a Glitterbels Rock Chick!

Glitterbels has launched its latest collection of Gel Polish shades swapping pop princess for punk princess!

Glitterbels Rock Chick Collection comprises six new shades that take inspiration from leather jackets, ripped jeans and studded belts to help clients amp up their looks this summer and leave them feeling like a rock star!

Colours include Break The Rules, a grungy green; Ripped Jeans, a ripped denim blue; Stage Lights, a dazzling dark shade; Fan Girl, a hot pink glitter; End of the Show, a confetti-type glitter, and Girly Goth, inspired by Glitterbels’ founder Annabel Maginnis who has a girly vibe with a gothic streak!

ADVANCING THE STATE OF THE NAIL INDUSTRY

CND™ is the nail industry’s most innovative and trusted brand and has led the way in professional nail care for over 40 years.

WHY CHOOSE CND™?

Researched, developed, and formulated in the U.S.A

Advancing the industry with award-winning products

The resource for innovation and the safest nail services

The industry-leading advocate for the role of nail care

World-class education

Vegan and Cruelty Free

A look at the leading lights in Builder Gel products

VVersatility, reliability and ease of use have secured Builder Gels as staple products in nail techs’ kits in recent times. Whether strengthing natural nails, adding length when overlayed with tips, or sculpting using forms, Builder Gels enable you to quickly deliver a range of services to all of your nail clients.

BUILT TO LAST

Plus, with a wide range of cover colours available, Builder Gels can be worn on their own for a nude finish or used underneath coloured gel polish. Cured under UV or LED lamps, these adaptable products deliver a hardwearing and long-lasting finish that is sure to secure repeat custom.

When introducing a new treatment, it’s important to undertake appropriate training. Choose an AIT Accredited Training Provider and you can easily add your new Builder Gel services to your AIT insurance and membership for no extra cost.

Be sure to describe your Builder Gel services accurately

When a product becomes popular it’s common for leading brand names to be used to describe it; think ‘Hoover’, ‘Google’ or even ‘Onesie’. There’s a term for this: genericide. However, using a trademarked brand name as an umbrella term to cover similar products or services is infringement of intellectual property law and could lead to a fine or even prison.

When it comes to advertising your Builder Gel treatments, it’s important you’re aware which brands have trademarked their product names. For example, BIAB™ and Builder in a Bottle™ are trademarked, therefore, unless you are offering Builder Gel treatments using The Gelbottle Inc.’s BIAB™ products, you must not promote your services as Builder in a Bottle or BIAB.

NSAI (National Standards Authority of Ireland) may intervene if descriptions of services you are offering are not accurate or you are infringing someone else’s intellectual property which could lead to prosecution. You must not misrepresent any of your services, for example, you advertise a branded treatment but are using products from another source.

Speak to your product supplier to check the correct terminology to use when marketing your Builder Gel services to avoid any issues.

Gelish® Structure Brush-On Builder is a crystal clear builder gel applied from the bottle.

Self-levelling, it can be used to extend nails using forms or tips, applied under gel polish and nail lacquer as an overlay to natural nails, and layered to build curvaceous, strong nails. It has a cruelty-free and 15-Free formulation.

Bubble-free and boasting a 30-second LED cure, this builder gel promises 21+ days of wear with easy soak off removal.

Creative Academy: www.creativeacademy.ie

Magpie has recently launched BUILDIT™, a HEMA free builder gel formulated to enable you to create hard wearing manicures. This new builder gel adds extra strength to support or repair natural nails and can also be used to extend nails using tips or forms.

Self-levelling and applied from a bottle without the need for a base, Build It cures in 60 seconds, and comes in Clear and a wide selection of cover shades.

Manufactured in the UK, this gel is free of HEMA, IBOA, IBOMA and DI-HEMA.

NSI Hair Nail and Beauty: www.nailandbeauty.ie AIT

OPI Diamond Gel is a three-in-one multiuse builder gel applied from a pot. It can be overlayed onto natural nails to add strength and used to build and sculpt for added weightless length.

Available in Clear as well as a range of OPI’s nudes, whites and pinks, it is applied over Diamond Gel Base for maximum adhesion to the natural nail and finished with an application of Diamond Gel Top for a brilliant shine and protective barrier.

OPI Diamond Gel in Clear can also be used to encapsulate glitters, crystals and embellishments.

Hennessy Hair & Beauty: www.hennessyhb.ie

The Manicure Company has launched a brand new HEMA-free builder gel, Zero Builder Gel™ In A Bottle.

Available in eight shades, the new hypoallergenic formulation isn’t just HEMA-free but also free from DiHEMA, HPMA, TPO and IBOA.

This self-levelling durable builder gel formula applies with ease, self-levels and cures in 60 seconds to create strong and durable nail enhancements that last at least three weeks on natural nails.

The Manicure Company: www.themanicurecompany.com

CND™ Plexigel Color Builder technology promises at least three weeks of strength, length and shape without causing damage to the natural nail.

This gel creates natural-looking, thin and light enhancements, and can also be used to repair chips, cracks and splits.

Brushed on from the bottle and self-levelling, there’s a comprehensive collection of cover shades to suit all clients’ skin tones.

The CND™ Plexigel system includes a Bonder, Shaper brush-on gel enhancement, Builder and Protector Top Coat.

Sweet Squared is offering a new 30-day risk-free trial with a choice of two ‘Try Me’ kit options suitable for both natural nail and enhancement techs.

Sweet Squared: www.sweetsquared.com

Crystal Nails Xtreme Superior Builder Gel can be overlayed onto natural nails to strengthen as well used with forms for sculpting and with tips for extending nail length.

It can also be used for refills with stronger coverage.

This hard gel cures under Crystal Nails UV / LED lamps and buffs off for removal.

Xtreme Superior is available in a number of shades including Natural Pink, Cover Pink, Milky Rose and Clear in 15ml or 50ml pots.

Crystal Nails: www.crystalnails.ie

The Gel Bottle Inc. have launched five new shades in their HEMA-free BIAB™ collection.

The brand’s HEMA-free BIAB™ (Builder in a Bottle™) formulation initially launched last year with six shades along with HEMA-Free Bond Base and Glow Top. The formulation can strengthen natural nails and deliver three to four weeks’ wear time.

New colours include Bon Bon, a creamy pink; Rose, a baby pink; Meringue, a white perfect for French tips; Bebe, a sweet pink; and Choux, a cool mauve. These join existing shades Au Lait, a milky-white; Ballet, a milky pink; Tulle, a silky nude; Merc, a pretty pink; Fleur, a pale pink; and Jolie, a sheet light pink.

Products are available individually and as HEMA-Free Kits for TGB Academy BIAB™ courses.

The Gel Bottle Inc: www.thegelbottle.ie

Available in eight shades, Gellux Builder Gels add strength and length to natural nails, can be used for gel overlays and to sculpt with forms or over tips.

This formulation of base and builder in a single bottle enables quick and easy application for building, extending and strengthening nails for up to 21 days.

Following application, nails can be left with just Gellux Builder Gel for a natural look or Gellux gel polish can be applied over for a more colourful finish.

Salon System: www.salonsystem.com

HONA has launched its third PureBuild™ Collection, adding 10 new hypoallergenic, HEMA-Free bottled builder gel shades.

With a Built-In Primer and Base, the product promises impeccable adhesion, and offers durability whilst enabling you to craft elegant enhancements that last.

The new colours range from elegant nudes to subtle shimmers catering to diverse client preferences and styles.

HONA: www.homeofnailart.com

Artistic Brush-On Builder enables you to brush on length and overlay onto natural nails.

This soak-off builder gel has a self-levelling, bubble-free formulation that creates lightweight, strong and durable nails that last up to 21 days.

It has a cruelty-free, vegan and 15-Free formula and crystal clear colour. Following application you can add a colour layer of Artistic Colour Gloss if your client desires.

Sweet Squared: www.sweetsquared.com

Sweet Squared: www.sweetsquared.com

By using Purple Professional Builder Gel, you can add extra strength and durability to clients nails while still being able to keep their natural appearance.

In addition, this Biphasic self levelling builder gel also offers protection against external factors such as chemicals or extreme temperatures which can cause normal nails to become weak and brittle.

Flair Hair & Beauty Supplies: www.flair.ie

Glitterbels HEMA Free Builder-bel Gel creates strong yet flexible nail enhancements and is compatible with soak-off and hard gels as well as acrylic enhancements and natural nails.

The formulation is HEMA-free, vegan and cruelty-free, and is easily applied with or without a bonding agent. It soaks off without any damage to the natural nail bed.

It comes in a choice of 60 different shades so there really is something to suit all of your clients.

Glitterbels: www.glitterbels.com

“Everyone’s skin reacts differently, some will have very little changes and some will have huge changes to their skin.”

Clare O’ Hanlon, Boost Beauty.

Working with clients’ skin, you’ll notice the visible changes that perimenopause can bring to a woman, placing you in an ideal position to help rebuild their sense of self.

NNavigating through the stages of growing older can have a severe effect on a woman.

Perimenopause, the transition into menopause, brings with it a host of changes caused by shifts in oestrogen, progesterone and testosterone levels as a woman ages.

ChallengingChanges

You may personally have experience of perimenopause, but for some beauty therapists tackling perimenopausal symptoms may be new for you. In the salon you have a perfect opportunity to support female clients through what can be a challenging time physically, mentally and emotionally.

“Perimenopause is the time in a woman’s life when menstrual cycles transition to lengthen or shorten before they ultimately end,” explains Clare O’ Hanlon, Co-Director of Boost Beauty (boostbeauty.ie).

“This natural process involves ovulation becoming erratic and periods may become irregular because of the main female hormone - oestrogen. Women typically experience hot flushes, night sweats, sleep problems, mood changes,decreases in fertility and skin changes. The falling oestrogen will affect the skin’s ability to retain ceramides, fatty acids that help the skin to lock in moisture and protect the skin barrier.

“Yet, everyone’s skin reacts differently, some will have very little changes and some will have huge changes to their skin.”

“There are three types of skin ageing: biochemical ageing, photo-ageing, and hormonal ageing,” explains Claire Kenny of Sunaura Distribution Ltd. “Biochemical ageing is the natural body process whereby cell structure gradually weakens as we get older. Photo-ageing is additional damage that can occur because of lifestyle and/or external factors such as smoking, sun damage, stress, lack of sleep or pollution. The majority of anti-ageing skincare products only treat one or both of these.”

“Approaching the topic of perimenopausal symptoms and their effects on skin, hair, and nails with a client requires empathy, sensitivity and a client-centred approach,” says skin specialist Georgina East (sknfluence.co.uk), who offers her advice on client consultations and perimenopause.

• Create a warm and welcoming environment where the client feels comfortable discussing personal concerns.

• Assure your client that perimenopausal changes in skin, hair, and nails are natural and that they are not alone in experiencing these transitions.

• Validate your client’s feelings and acknowledge the impact these changes may have on their self-esteem and confidence.

• Encourage your client to pay attention to their body and notice physical and emotional changes. Suggest keeping a journal to track symptoms and identify patterns.

• Explore treatment options and strategies to address specific concerns, offering recommendations for skin, hair and nail products and practices.

• Empower your client to take an active role in managing their symptoms and self-care routines.

• Check in regularly to answer any questions and provide additional support.

Claire continues: “Hormonal ageing is where a change in the hormone levels speeds up skin ageing, primarily because of a drop in oestrogen levels. This increases the breakdown of collagen fibre, slows down cell renewal and reduces the moisture-holding capacity of the skin.”

For some women, this transition may begin in their 30s although majority will start to experience perimenopause from the age of 40 to 44 years lasting on average four years. This time in a woman’s life is often misunderstood and sometimes the term ‘menopausal’ is used derogatively to explain why they are feeling or behaving in a certain way. In fact, a woman only reaches menopause 12 months after her last menstrual period.

Perimenopause is not an illness but a stage in life, but it can be extremely debilitating and disorientating. You are in the perfect position to help rebuild clients confidence and discuss their concerns sensitively and openly.

“As professional[s], we…can often find ourselves recognising the visual effects of perimenopause,” comments Marie Nieuwoudt, Group Education Manager at Cloud Nine (cloudninehair.com).

“Understanding and education is key. By ensuring that all aspects of the menopausal journey are present and regularly discussed throughout the education of your team, it simply becomes a part of salon/spa culture. Giving both the professional and the client the confidence to have an open conversation and dispel any stigma.”

Marie recommends that salon teams are educated on recognising the signs of symptoms of perimenopause, menopause and post menopause, treatment recommendations and benefits and record keeping, logging all client outcomes for a more personalisedsalon experience.

In the salon, use your knowledge to create a bespoke treatment programme and homecare that will deliver effective results. “An important point to make is some women experiencing perimenopausal skin issues may have an array of different skin conditions on the skin at the same time,” says Clare O’Hanlan. “For example, hormonal acne and ageing skin. It is important to zone the face and neck and treat each individual area with with different ingredients/products.

Know your hormones...

• Oestrogen helps to stimulate the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid helping to promote firmness, plumpness, elasticity and hydration levels in the skin. In addition, oestrogen helps to minimise inflammation, boosts wound healing and protects against sun damage. This hormone also plays a key role in keratin production, important for good hair and nail health.

• Progesterone supports oestrogen and stimulates the production of sebum/oil in the glands of the skin. Too little progesterone and skin becomes dry and sensitive, however if the body produces too much of this hormone, there can be a build-up leading to breakouts.

• Similar to progesterone, Testosterone activates the sebaceous glands to produce oil and also impacts hair follicles affecting hair growth, hair shedding and filament size.

“If the client has hormonal breakouts on the chin, and ageing/dry skin on the forehead and cheeks, I recommend different products on those areas to really tackle the individual concern. This will aid in treating the concerns with the correct ingredients/products specifically and have effective results.”

The effects of hormone levels

“As our oestrogen levels start to drop in perimenopause, so too does our body water content, which leads to dehydration,” adds Margo Marrone, Pharmacist, Homeopath and co-founder of The Organic Pharmacy (theorganicpharmacy. com). “Not only can this leave our hair and nails brittle, but it also leaves our skin looking and feeling dry.”

In addition, decreasing oestrogen is linked to a drop in collagen and elastin levels, reducing elasticity and plumpness.

Introducing formulations to preserve and restore the skin barrier function is vital. “For the typical client whose skin becomes dry and thinning, it is important to add ceramides to the skincare routine,” says Clare O’ Hanlon. “Ceramides contribute to the regulation and layout of the stratum corneum’s lipid layers, which is the key to the formation of the skin barrier, protecting it from exogenous factors. They moisturise and rejuvenate the skin and improve its elasticity.”

Shelley Martin, owner of Skinician (skinician.com) agrees on the importance of moisture content within the skin during this period. “Hydration is crucial during menopause, with a focus on products featuring hyaluronic acid,” she says. “Equally vital is sun protection, as UVA exposure accelerates ageing and harms fragile blood capillaries.”

as overactivity of tyrosinase leads to the overproduction of melanin,” advises Clare.

She continues: “For hyperpigmentation/melasma, we find chemical peels very effective along with tyrosinase inhibiting products, ingredients commonly found excellent in chemical peels are tranexamic acid, phytic acid, gallic acid, glycolic acid and azelaic acid.”

“By ensuring all aspects of the menopausal journey are present and regularly discussed throughout the education of your team, it simply becomes a part of salon/spa culture,”Marie Nieuwoudt, Cloud Nine.

Without the use of an SPF product as Shelley recommends, exposure to the sun combined with hormonal changes can cause patches of brown pigmentation, or melasma. “With melasma, it is important to recommend tyrosinase inhibitors,

“To combat photo-ageing, the additional of Phyto-oestrogens to cosmetic products is really helpful,” advises Claire Kenny. “Phyto-oestrogens are ingredients that can help to reduce the effects of hormonal ageing on the skin. These are not plant hormones but have a similar chemical structure to oestrogen and they have been scientifically proven to tighten the skin and stimulate cell activity, reducing the effects of a lack of natural oestrogen. They work with the skin’s own oestrogen receptors to compensate for the lack of natural oestrogen, without disrupting the body’s hormonal balance.”

“With the reduction of progesterone, inflammation may also arise on the skin as redness, itchiness, spotty and prone to rashes,” says Clare O’ Hanlon. “Testosterone levels are likely to rise which may result in cystic acne. In most cases adult acne is caused by hormonal imbalances where the body produces too much androgen (male sex hormones) as well as the appearance of facial hair.

“For acne, salicylic peels are often effective because salicylic acid works by preventing the development of future breakouts of acne by unclogging pores, another acid called succinic acid is more gentle and directly kills the acne causing bacteria.

“For rosacea, acne rosacea and acneic perimenopausal skin, azelaic acid has high anti-inflammatory effects treating visible rosacea symptoms such as redness, swelling and has antibacterial effects to treat inflamed acne. It works by killing the bacteria that infects the pores and decreases production of keratin.”

Have a look at our round-up of products to help tackle your clients’ perimenopausal skin concerns…

Created specifically for sensitive skin, such as that caused by perimenopause, the Elave Rejuvenating Skin Collection combats the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and leaves the skin smoother and brighter.

The collection comprises Elave Rejuvenating Cleansing Treatment formulated with 12% glycolic acid arginine complex to gently exfoliate the face and stimulate collagen synthesis. In addition, Elave Daily Skin Defence SPF45 enriched with zinc, vitamin B5 and vitamin E to nourish skin and repair environmental skin damage whilst offering high UVA and UVB protection.

Elave Sensitive Skincare: www.elaveskincare.com

Juliette Armand Ceramide Serum and Hydra Repairing Cream enhance perimenopausal skin’s natural regeneration.

Ceramide Serum (pictured) enhances the skin’s texture thanks to ceramides resulting from bacterial fermentation, improving skin imperfections and the appearance of wrinkles.

In addition, Hydra Repairing Cream is also formulated with ceramides (HCl fat soluble and 3B water soluble) which regulate the stratum corneum’s lipids, strengthening the skin barrier. Bifidus bacteria and milk proteins stimulate the skin’s enzyme system and repair damage to skin cell DNA whilst Matrixyl 3000 oligopeptide stimulates collagen and fibronectin synthesis.

Storyderm Skincare’s Resens Red collection is formulated for flushed, red, itchy skin with broken capillaries.

The collection comprises Resens Red Aqua foaming cleanser featuring Damask rose flower water which includes polyphenols, flavonoids and vitamins to soothe the skin and protect against harmful external aggressors.

Resens Red Cream improves the appearance of telangiectasia, sensitive and irritated red skin. Black ginger extract contains a large amount of polyphenols and Arginine to prevent skin inflammation and photoageing caused by ultraviolet rays, whist its strong antioxidant action strengthens capillaries and improves cell immunity.

Beauty Boost: www.boostbeauty.ie

Dermalogica Pro-Collagen Banking Serum helps tackle the signs of ageing by ‘banking’ existing collagen. Tests showed the product is 94% more effective in preserving skin’s collagen compared to untreated skin.

Formulated with the brand’s Pro-Collagen Preservation Complex of Collagen Amino Acids and Carnosine Dipeptide, the serum supresses the first signs of visible ageing as well as addresses existing fine lines and wrinkles. Jojoba Ester and Polyglutamic acid nourish and plump for a firmer appearance, Indigo extract and Arginine PCA restore skin radiance and Pink Carnation flower extract improves softness and resilience.

Dermalogica: https://pro.dermalogica.co.uk

To tackle perimenopausal acne, Clarol Silver & Birch Exfoliation Wash is formulated with antiinflammatory Birch Bark extract that contains natural equivalents of Salicylic acid and methyl salicylate to gently exfoliate the skin and remove dead skin cells. In addition, Pumice stone and Rice Bran provide gentle manual exfoliation.

Boost effectiveness with Clarol Silver Serum, formulated with a targeted micronized silver ingredient that directly feeds good skin bacteria while repelling bad skin bacteria. This can quickly and effectively address the tendency towards bacterial imbalance in perimenopausal skin to help reduce acne and redness.

Clarol: www.clarol.co.uk

For clients adapting their skin regimes to address perimenopausal acne, The Organic Pharmacy’s Peppermint Facial Wash gently but intensely cleanses and balances skin thanks to Eucalyptus, Tea Tree, Peppermint and Lavender. The addition of Manuka Face Cream every morning to the face, neck and decollete delivers antibacterial properties with skin calming ingredients of Manuka, Lavendar, Echinacea and Cedarwood.

The Organic Pharmacy: www.theorganicpharmacy.com

Reduce sensitive skin’s reactivity to other skincare products, cosmetics and SPF products with Kalme Undercoat that contains de-sensitising ingredient. Follow this with Kalme TeQ Serum, a super hydrating and skin repairing prebiotic serum containing extracts of Blue Agave, pure plant-based Squalane and an anti-redness ingredient derived from capers. The serum maximum skin hydration and skin repair of red, dry, spotty and sensitive perimenopausal skin.

Kalme: www.kalme.co.uk

Collagen Shots from supplement brand Rejuvenated stimulates collagen synthesis, strengthens connective tissue and improves vascular health, which in turn boosts blood flow and hydrates the skin. A synergistic blend of 10,000 mg of hydrolysed marine collagen, antioxidants, vitamins and hyaluronic acid contribute towards the appearance of smoother, firmer and plumper skin whilst supporting hair and nail growth.

Collagen Shots are formulated with 100% traceable and ethically sourced ingredients, backed by clinical studies.

Rejuvenated: www.rejuvenated.com

Skinician’s range includes a number of products suitable for treatment of perimenopause-related concerns. This includes Retinol Powerbalm Level 1 formulated with pure 0.1% Retinol and peptides making it a good choice for anyone new to retinol treatments.

Created to be applied at night, it resurfaces and replenishes whilst clients sleep; Dermapep™ and potent peptides stimulate collagen, elastin and Hyaluronic acid delivering a refined skin texture and a healthy looking glow.

Skinician: www.skinician.com

Beautiful Brows & Lashes offer a number of products that can help women experiencing thinning of lashes and brows. To fill patchy, thinning brows, the brand’s Brow Powder Kits deliver sweatproof, waterproof, smudge-proof long-lasting colour. To boost hair growth,

Beautiful Brows Duo Lash & Brow Boost Serum strengthens, thickens and multiplies brow and lash hair, whilst Lash & Brow Toxx is enriched with biotin, keratin and castor oil to condition hairs and keep them strong and shiny.

Beautiful Brows & Lashes: www.beautifulbrowsandlashes.com

Created specifically for menopausal skin, Eve Taylor London’s Overnight Clarifying Complex tackles hormonal breakouts and post-breakout redness whilst slowing the visible signs of ageing by treating open pores, lines, wrinkles and uneven skin tone.

Nourishing ingredients include Niacinamide, Sodium PCA and Tea Tree Oil plus Argan Oil which is rich in Vitamin E essential fatty acids, Soya Oil for skin softness and Sunflower Oil rich in Linoleic Acid to deeply nourish and calm irritation.

Eve Taylor Ireland: www.evetaylor.ie

Mila d’Opiz Phyto de Luxe Lip & Eye Booster relaxes facial muscles and reduces the appearance of wrinkles around the eye area, thanks to Sichuan Pepper which causes a tingle effect on the skin whilst the product gets to work.

This is the latest launch in the Phyto de Luxe line, formulated with the brand’s unique Phyto 4.8 Complex containing phyto-oestrogens from eight different plants.

In addition, Densorphin™ shown to significantly increase the density and elasticity of the skin, stimulates endorphins and the hormone DHEA, giving the skin a more youthful look and feel. It also contains Caffeine to tighten and oxygenate the skin.

For retail, it is packaged in a tube with metal applicator, used to sweep the product along the upper and lower lip and under eye area. A professional size for salon use is due to be introduced.

Sunaura Distribution: www.sunaura.ie

AFuelling Your Success

In our industry we dedicate ourselves to making others look and feel great, but who looks after you? In the first part of this new series Nutritional Therapist Rebecca Attle offers her expert advice on fuelling your body so that you ‘look’ and ‘feel’ the part when you’re strapped for time.

AAre you working long hours with back to back appointments leaving little time for lunch? Is the only time you get for a break in between taking payment from one client and cleaning down for the next?

Working in the hair and beauty industry is hard, both physically and mentally, not to mention the exposure to a wide range of toxins (particularly the case for nail technicians/hairdressers). If you feel like you have less energy than before, you often feel tired, you have a penchant for sweet treats and / or are suffering from indigestion and bloating after meals, then the food that you eat along with how you eat it has a key role to play.

How can you make sure that you are fuelling your body with what it needs to allow you to function optimally both at work and at play?

The gold standard is of course bringing in your own food from home. Food brought in from home is more cost effective and less processed but yes, it does take more time to plan and prep and yes, it is a pain, but it is so worth it.

Whether you’re bringing your food in or relying on the local shop, the most important thing is to make sure that you’re balancing out your blood sugar levels. Put simply, when you eat carbohydrates it releases glucose (sugar) into your bloodstream. A hormone called insulin then allows the glucose to enter the cells in your body giving you energy.

If this is all nicely balanced, you have good energy throughout the day, but if you have big spikes and big lows in blood sugar levels (imagine a roller coaster) then your energy, mood and concentration can be all over the place.

steps to achieve balanced blood sugars

If you can commit to applying the following three steps, you will, in a short period of time, not only ‘look the part’ but also ‘feel the part’. Your energy levels will increase, the mid-morning / post lunch slump will be a thing of the past and your brain will no longer feel like treacle:

1

. Swap white versions of bread, pasta, rice, etc (carbohydrates) for wholemeal/wholegrain varieties.

2

. Make sure you always combine these carbohydrates with a good quality protein (meat, eggs, fish, nuts, seeds, beans and pulses, tofu) for all meals including snacks.

3

. Ditch the fizzy drinks including the diet sodas. They may have zero calories but they mess up your gut and keep you craving sweet things.

How you eat

If, like so many of us, you’re bolting your food down whilst scrolling, this will inevitably leave you with a bout of indigestion and bloating. Your body needs to be relaxed when you eat to be able to fully digest and absorb all of the nutrients from your food. Bringing your food in from home means that you can save time going to the shop and spend that time on how you eat:

• 10 deep breaths before starting.

• Chewing every mouthful of food before putting the next one in.

• Avoiding phones/TVs which can trigger your nervous system.

Here are some healthy lunch ideas:

Leftovers from the night before in a food flask.

Salad jars - add the dressing at the bottom so it doesn’t make

Homemade soups - add some lentils/beans for extra protein.

Healthy snacks such as sliced peppers, apple, cucumber, celery with some nut butter, crushed avocado, hummus (beware of the garlic!) are great for nibbling on when cleaning in between clients; rotate each day to increase variety and diversity.

Homemade smoothie that you can keep in the fridge and have a sip on throughout the day. Making it with water instead of milk/milk alternative will help it to stay fresher and adding nuts, avocado and a clean protein powder will also help you feel fuller.

• Opt for protein bars with as few ingredients in them as possible.

• Always include lots of antioxidant-rich foods along with a good quality antioxidant supplement to help mop up the toxins.

Rebecca Attle is a Nutritional Therapist at Empowered to Nourish and Founder of the Acne 360º Recovery Solution. She specialises in helping women in their 30s and 40s get rid of acne once and for all. Scan the QR Code to download her free guide Glow From the Inside Out: 3 Clear Skin Rituals for Acne-Free Skin in Your 30s & 40s.

A solid foundation

Encourage clients to adopt a healthy scalp regimen to help them achieve their hair goals.

CCaring for the skin on our scalp is often an overlooked area of skin and hair care. Clients experiencing redness, itching, dry and flaky scalps can be common and despite a rising interest in this area, these are conditions that many may not consider a priority when it comes to self-care.

Just as skin specialists are concerned about the health of the skin barrier on the face and body, professionals should also be aware of promoting the well-being of the skin on the scalp.

“Like your skin, your scalp needs key moisture and oils, pH balance, cleanliness, circulation and protection to keep it healthy and well-treated. You must keep all these elements in balance to improve the condition of the scalp,” says Alice Dawkins, Hair Expert at Milk + Blush (www.milkandblush.com).

“Encouraging clients to incorporate a thorough scalp treatment into their daily routine can help strengthen their roots and promote growth, as well as reduce flaking and the build-up of dead skin cells.”

“The scalp… is home to trillions of microorganisms that include bacteria, fungi and viruses and for our hair to really thrive it is important that we keep our scalp microbiome balanced and in harmony,” explains Samantha Stewart MIT, Consultant Trichologist and Hair Gain Ambassador (www.hairgainnow.com).

“However, most people don’t pay that much attention to their scalps! Just think, you never hear any-one saying, ‘I’m washing my scalp tonight’ and while there has been a little more buzz around scalp care of late, how often do you hear someone say they are doing a ‘scalp facial’? The focus has always been on hair and skin care.”

The most common scalp concerns present themselves as flaking skin, inflammation and itchiness. “For many, this is linked to the wrong product choice, method of washing or simply not washing their hair and scalp enough,” says Samantha Stewart MIT. “If [clients] are suffering from a chronic scalp condition this will require specialist treatment but for some, their mild scalp issues can be corrected simply by using products designed specifically with the scalp in mind and adapting to a better shampooing regime.”

Establishing a healthy scalp routine

Encouraging clients to adopt a hair and scalp cleansing routine that supports good scalp health is vital. Samantha Stewart MIT explains:

“When shampooing we must make sure the shampoo is worked throughout the scalp using the pads of the fingers, not the nails as this could damage the scalp. Repeat the same action when rinsing to make sure all the shampoo is removed from the scalp. It is important when choosing a product that we look at scalp-friendly ingredients that don’t clog the follicles, as this can increase inflammation and upset the scalps microbiome. I use and recommend the Hair Gain Scalp Foam as it supports the scalp topically by helping to maintain its moisture balance.”

“With regards to scalp health I think one of the main reasons people are noticing improvements in their hair is not using too many products especially products that aren’t necessary for what their trying to achieve as this can lead to excess build up,” adds Jonathan Andrew, Fudge Professional (uk.fudgeprofessional.com) Global Brand Ambassador.

Samantha Stewart MIT agrees, saying: “Only apply products that are indicated for the scalp. Many people work conditioner into the scalp but most conditioners and masks are formulated for the hair only. The Hair Gain Hair Mask is designed specifically to sooth and hydrate the scalp and will not unbalance the microbiome.”

In addition to inflammation and itchiness caused by improper product usage, there are of course chronical medical conditions that will require professional diagnosis by a Trichologist but can be managed to support scalp health. Directing clients to their GP should be the first step.

“Most people don’t pay that much attention to their scalps! Just think, you never hear anyone saying, ‘I’m washing my scalp tonight”

- Samantha Stewart MIT, Consultant Trichologist.

Scalp conditions that may require intervention from a Trichologist include:

Psoriasis: An autoimmune condition where an increase in the production of skin cells causes a build-up of dead skin cells resulting in Psoriatic plaques.

Seborrheic Eczema: Caused by a reaction to the yeast Malassezia Globosa, the skin becomes inflamed and itchy with secretions.

Irritant Contact Dermatitis: This is an immediate reaction to a product applied to the skin, such as bleach or detergent.

Allergic Contact Dermatitis: This is a delayed reaction to an allergen such as hair dye, highlighting the importance of patch testing ahead of any salon tint treatment.

Neurodermatitis (lichen simplex):

This presents as a very itchy eczema patch, usually at the nape of the neck, that becomes worse through continued rubbing or scratching.

Once a condition is determined, continued home care is essential to maintain the health of the scalp, as Alice Dawkins advises:

“While cleansing sets the foundation, guide your peers and clients to explore the world of scalp masks, exfoliants, and serums.

“These treatments can address a range of issues, from excessive oil production to dandruff. However, try not to overcomplicate regimens - addressing specific, evident issues is key.”

Just as we are concerned about the health of the skin barrier on the face and body, you should also be aware of promoting the well-being of the skin on the scalp.

Renowned for its advanced skin treatments, Heaven Skincare has introduced new hair care products to its Collagen Collection to address the natural reduction in collagen production as we age.

Infused with natural marine collagen and Hyaluronic acid to support and hydrate the scalp, the new Shampoo and Conditioner cleanse away dead skin cells from the scalp that block hair follicles and prevent new hair growth whilst also improving hair thickness and reducing breakage and damage.

Heaven Skincare: www.heavenskincare.com

Revitalash Volume Enhancing Foam adds body and volume to fine, thinning hair and aids conditioning of the scalp thanks to a proprietary BioPeptin Complex® of peptides, biotin and Panthenol. This also helps condition and strengthen hair while improving hair elasticity to defend against breakage and brittleness.

Harpar Grace International: www.harpargrace.com

Act+Acre is the world’s first Cold Processed® hair wellness brand that focuses on the scalp. Their range of plant-based products has been created using a patented Cold Processed® technique that avoids traditional heat-based production which can lessen the potency of nutrients in seed oils.

Developed by Irish Trichologist Helen Reavey, Act+Acres’ range comprises products to address scalp build-up, dry and itchy scalps, oily scalps, thinning hair, styling and a new collection specifically for curly hair.

Act+Acre: www.actandacre.com

Hair Gain Scalp Foam deeply penetrates without leaving any residue to revitalise the scalp. It features the brand’s AnaGainTM technology derived from organic pea shoots and also includes caffein, biotin, betaine and phytantriol.

Due to its foam consistency, the product doesn’t clog hair follicles but instead deeply penetrates the hair cortex and stimulates the hair follicles to enhance hair density and reduce shedding.

Hair Gain: www.hairgainnow.com

Monpure has developed a range of results-driven formulas to tackle hair l oss and thinning by enhancing scalp health. “We believe that scalp care should be part of our daily skincare regimens and aim to make this easier and more accessible than ever,” says Natanel Bigger, Founder of Monpure.

The collection includes shampoos, conditioners, serums, masks and scrubs formulated with skin-kind ingredients including Vegan Silk Peptides, botanicals, Retinol and Lactic acid.

Monpure: www.monpure.com

Alterna has introduced a Renewing Scalp Care line comprising a collection of clinically tested vegan formulas applied using massage techniques for a sensorial experience.

Products are formulated using Sweet Almond oil, White Charcoal, Sea Salt, Peppermint, Tea Tree oil, and Hemp Seed oil to leave the scalp feeling refreshed and moisturised.

The collection includes Scrub-to-Foam scalp exfoliator, Hemp Leave-On Treatment to calm and soothe the scalp, and Peppermint Leave-On Treatment to moisturise and invigorate.

Alterna Europe: www.alternahaircare.com

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