BEAUTY FASHION www.beautyfashion.com
DECEMBER 2011
速
Discover the true essence of fine fragrance with the Robert Piguet collection.
Emma Watson
The new feminine fragrance
Catch my heart at facebook.com/lancome
DECEMBER 2011 • VOLUME 95 • NUMBER 12
BEAUTY
BEAUTY FASHION www.beautyfashion.com
DECEMBER 2011
®
FASHION
®
Discover the true essence
On the cover:
of fine fragrance with the Robert Piguet collection.
Across the world, Gucci is synonymous with Italian craftsmanship and fashion authority. Over the past ninety years the Florentine House has come to symbolize tradition and innovation with timeless yet contemporary designs. Within this collection of fragrances, the Gucci woman expresses all facets of her personality: the mademoiselle with Flora by Gucci, the accomplished, empowered woman of Gucci by Gucci, or the distinctively provocative Gucci Guilty heroine. While the Gucci man may be a seductive partner in crime (Gucci Guilty Pour Homme), a polished contemporary gentleman (Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme), or a playful suitor (Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme Sport).
AT-COUNTER 20
A Walk On The Line Side . . . With Coty Prestige Beauty Fashion Joined Robert Taylor And His Team To Branch In New York City And New Jersey
36
GANT Fragrance Goes Global
THEBEAUTYBIZ 10
The Beauty Flash
16
Industry Ear
37
Moving Forward With Clinique At CEW Women In Beauty Series
39
The Fragrance Foundation’s 2011 State Of The Industry
43
Scent Trekkers’ Odyssey In Manhattan
55
Exploring The World Of Scent
FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS 47
Memo From Italy -Simona Barello
56
Notes From Paris -Sarah Colton
20
37
© 2011 BY BEAUTY FASHION. No reproduction of material contained herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.
DECEMBER 2011 • VOLUME 95 • NUMBER 12
BEAUTY
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FASHION
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REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS 44
Capitol Chic -Bernadette Lacy
45
Houston Counterpoints -Mary Sit
46
Atlanta Peach -Toni M. Lublin
THEPARTYSCENE 33
39
On The Avenue
THELATESTLAUNCHES 26
Beauty Fashion’s Hot Picks For The Holidays
35
Skincare Standouts
38
Shades Of Beauty
40
Holiday Gift Sets Part IV
41
Scentsory Perceptions
42
For Men Only
44
EVERYMONTH 8
Editorial
10
ComingUp
14
Calendar
WWW.LAPRAIRIE.COM Š 2012 LA PRAIRIE INC.
THE ADVANCED MARINE BIOLOGY COLLECTION immerse your skin in the rejuvenating power of the sea
especially for you Complimentary Advanced Marine Biology Collection samples are waiting for you at the La Prairie counter. Discover more at www.laprairieadvancedmarinebiology.com
EDiTORiAL
LET THE HOLIDAY SEASON ROCK So far . . . so good. With Black Friday behind us, it now looks like we have started down the road to, shall I say, a cautiously optimistic holiday season? It appears that there is a wide range of newness in the prestige fragrance arena to drive the heartiest of shoppers─with the mega celebrities driving that newness. This says to me that rising waters raise all boats. The soothsayers at this year’s Fragrance Foundation State of the Industry luncheon echoed this optimistic but cautious theme. It’s all about foot traffic, which in turn is about consumer confidence. If the last minute shopping that so defines our category rings true again this year, it is a splendid omen that this year’s stockings will be overflowing with good tidings. Fingers crossed and Happy Holidays to you and yours.
George Ledes President and CEO
DECEMBER 2011 /
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CLARINS SKIN SPA AT BLOOMINGDALE’S 59TH STREET
Bloomingdale’s Francine Klein and Michael Gould (r.) with Clarins’ Philip Shearer and Jonathan Zrihen inside the Clarins Skin Spa
The ribbon was cut on the new Clarins Skin Spa and installation at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street on October 31. Luminaries, including Jonathan Zrihen, President of Clarins Groupe North America and Michael Gould, Chairman of Bloomingdale’s, gathered to toast the new space. “The Skin Spa is a key ingredient in crafting a complete Clarins experience for customers,” explained Mr. Zrihen. “We are continually innovating our products and treatments to maintain the brand’s reputation as a skincare authority.” Mr. Gould affirmed that this Clarins bay “sets an example for the rest of the store. It focuses on the customer and takes them to another level.” “Thank you, Michael. Our partnership with Bloomingdale’s is based on support and trust,” Mr. Zrihen declared. He also thanked “our fantastic Clarins team, which has established the Clarins Skin Spa at Bloomingdale’s.” “The most significant concept driving a brand in-store is service,” noted Howard Kreitzman, Senior Vice President, DMM. “Clarins has elevated service in the store to new heights.” Mr. Kreitzman explained that the customer at Clarins’ installation will have different experiences every month. “There will be seasonal events as well. The design of the space is bright and inviting. It’s also easier for the Beauty Consultants to work at-counter.” He informed that the Discovery Table at Clarins’ installation “is a creative idea that allows customers and Beauty Consultants to interact in a different way with products. It also provides a way for the customers to interact with each other as they discover Clarins (UK) Ltd’s Robin Vincent Clarins’ products on the table.” with Mr. Zrihen
GIVENCHY’S ANGE OU DÉMON LE SECRET ELIXIR AT L&T Givenchy’s Ange ou Démon Le Secret Elixir was launched at a special event at Lord & Taylor’s flagship store on November 9. “We’re very pleased to celebrate Givenchy Ange ou Démon Le Secret Elixir at Lord & Taylor tonight,” declared Nicholas Munafo, US President of LVMH Fragrance Brands. “We were so fortunate that our face, Uma Thurman, was available to be here with us. The response and excitement for this event and the fragrance are truly amazing.”
JANUARY
A Walk On The Line Side With Bliss Bliss’ Mike Indursky
Silvia Galfo Lancôme
Rochelle Bloom
Nathalie Kristo L’Oréal Paris
CEW’s Women in Beauty Series
The Fragrance Foundation’s panel on “The Celebrity Fragrance Balance Sheet”
LVMH Fragrance Brands’ Nicholas Munafo and Jessica Barlow (r.) with Uma Thurman, the face of the campaign for Givenchy’s new Ange ou Démon Le Secret Elixir
Ms. Barlow and Ms. Thurman (2nd r.) with Givenchy’s Olivier Duval and Dorothée Boeuf-Hennequin
BF DECEMBER 2011 /
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VILLAIN. THE FRAGRANCE FOR HIM AND HER
CONTRIBUTING editors&columnists CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Italy Simona Barello simona.barello@gmail.com Fax: +39-06-59887673
Marc Rosen marc@mra-nyc.com
France Sarah Colton sarahcolton@sarahcolton.com Fax: 011-331-45885386
UK Lorraine Wilson-Morris lorraine@esprit-magazine.co.uk
Australia Andrea Ferrari andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au
Brazil Fernanda Bonifacio mfmbonifacio@hotmail.com
Germany Heide Kuhn-Winkler info@hkw-pressoffice.de Fax: 011-49-621-400-6065
Spain Julia Rossi juliarossi@hotmail.es
REGIONAL COLUMNISTS
Seattle, WA Mary Elizabeth Cronin tel.: (206) 284-8998 mecronin@mecronin.com
Atlanta, GA Toni M. Lublin tel.: (404) 874-6998 toni_lublin@yahoo.com
San Francisco, CA Raphaella Barkley tel.: (775) 849-7724 raphaellabrescia@msn.com
Colorado Hilary Martin tel.: (303) 499-6244 fax: (303) 499-6245 winedunce@gmail.com
Raleigh, NC Bridgette A. Lacy tel.: (919) 872-4234 bridgettelacy@att.net
Boston, MA Brittany Jasnoff tel.: (617) 262-9700 bjasnoff@hotmail.com
Chicago, IL Lisa D. Lenoir tel.: (773) 643-0238 lenol66@aol.com
Dallas/Fort Worth, TX Normita Joven tel.: (214) 504-6157 normita.beautyfashion@gmail.com
Washington, DC Bernadette Lacy tel.: (571) 451-4187 bernie368@gmail.com
Houston, TX Mary Sit tel./fax: (713) 973-6798 maryesit@gmail.com
Richmond, VA Emily Kirkpatrick eskirkpatrick@gmail.com
Los Angeles to La Jolla, CA Lynn D. Ludlam tel.: (760) 295-6999 lynndludlam@aol.com
BEAUTY FASHION
®
PUBLISHER AND EDITOR
212-840-8800 ext. 241
ext. 245
GEORGE LEDES
ext. 225
ext. 248
ADELAIDE P. FARAH
SENIOR PRODUCTS EDITOR
ext. 252
LINDSEY E. ADAMS
JENNIFER DRUCKER
jdrucker@cosmeticworld.com
PHOTOGRAPHER
ladams@beautyfashion.com
www.beautyfashion.com www.cosmeticworld.com
HOWARD BIEGEL
hbiegel@cosmeticworld.com
ART DIRECTOR
afarah@beautyfashion.com
DEBRA DAVIS
ddavis@beautyfashion.com
DIRECTORY EDITOR
gledes@cosmeticworld.com
SENIOR RETAIL EDITOR
ext. 224
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
jledes@beautyfashion.com
PRESIDENT AND CEO
ext. 234
JOHN G. LEDES
ERIC MICHELSON
EXECUTIVE OFFICE 16 E. 40th Street Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 Telephone: 212-840-8800 Fax: 212-840-7246
BEAUTY FASHION EVENTS CALENDAR SUBJECT (A) Awards (B) Benefit (E) Retail Event (I) Product Intro
(M) (P) (R) (S) (T)
Meeting Press Trip Reception Seminar Trade Show
ADMISSION DETAIL (IO) Invitation Only (TA) Tickets Available * Phone numbers provided are for further information.
DECEMBER 1
Fragrance Foundation The Celebrity Balance Sheet: Is It a Win-Win for Everyone? Panel Discussion with Dior’s Terry Darland, The NPD Group’s Karen Grant, Macy’s Linda Levy, Elizabeth Arden’s Ron Rolleston and Firmenich’s Theo Spilka Time-Life Building • NYC 5:30 PM Members Only (S) (212) 725-2755 www.fragrance.org
DECEMBER 3
CIBS 64th Annual Holiday Ball Marriott Marquis • NYC 7:00 PM (TA) www.cibsonline.com
DECEMBER 7 - 9
ScentWorld 2011 Gansevoort Hotel • Miami Beach FL (T) www.scentmarketing.org/scent-world-expo
DECEMBER 9
Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty of Giving Luncheon Waldorf-Astoria • NYC 11:00 AM (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
DECEMBER 14
CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM (M) www.cibsonline.com
2012 JANUARY 31
Fragrance Foundation Hot Off the Press Annual Business Review NYC 8:00 AM Breakfast (S) (TA) (212) 725-2755 www.fragrance.org
FEBRUARY 8
Cosmetic Executive Women Young Executive Committee’s Cocktails & Connections: Speed Networking FIT • NYC 6:30 PM (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
FEBRUARY 9
James E. Marshall OCD Foundation Beyond Beauty Dinner Honoring Maesa Group’s Jill Belasco, Kaplow’s Liz Kaplow and Scent Marketing Institute’s Caroline Pieper-Vogt Union League Club • NYC 6:00 PM (B) (TA) (608) 845-3664
FEBRUARY 16
ICMAD Technical/Regulatory Forum Balboa Bay Club • Newport Beach CA (M) (847) 991-4499 www.icmad.org Cosmetic Executive Women Newsmaker Forum with Ulta’s Chuck Ruben Harmonie Club • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (S) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
FEBRUARY 20 - 23
Beauty & Wellness Exchange Montage • Laguna Beach CA (T) (203) 202-2576 www.exchangeevents.com/beauty
FEBRUARY 22 - 24
Personal Care Products Council Annual Meeting Ritz-Carlton • Naples FL (M) (202) 331-1770 www.personalcarecouncil.org DECEMBER 2011 /
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FEBRUARY 25 - 26
The Makeup Show California Market Center • Los Angeles CA (T) (TA) (212) 242-1213 www.themakeupshow.com
MARCH 7
Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty Awards Product Demonstration Metropolitan Pavilion • NYC 6:00 PM (R) (IO) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
MARCH 9 - 11
Beauty International Dusseldorf Germany (T) (312) 781-5185 www.mdna.com
MARCH 9 - 12
Cosmoprof Bologna Bologna Italy (T) www.cosmoprof.com
MARCH 13
March of Dimes Beauty Ball Honoring HSN’s Mindy Grossman and Fairchild’s Gina Sanders Cipriani 42nd Street • NYC 6:00 PM (B) (TA) (212) 353-1143 jcarlo@marchofdimes.com
APRIL 3 - 4
Luxe Pack Shanghai Shanghai Intl Convention Center Shanghai China (T) www.luxepack.com
APRIL 26
ICMAD FDA Cosmetic Regulations Workshop NYC 9:00 AM (TA) (847) 991-4499 www.icmad.org
awless has many faces Inspired by mystery, intrigue and romance, Laura’s new Moonlight Collection illuminates your natural beauty with seductive tones of sultry garnet, dramatic violet and sparkling neutrals.
lauramercier.com
THEBEAUTYBIZ
Shiseido Co., Ltd has established Shiseido Kozmetik Anonim Şirketi, located in Istanbul, as a joint venture with major Turkish cosmetics import and sales distributor Vesco Kosmetik Ürünleri Paz. ve Tic. Ltd. Sti. Operations of the new company will commence from January 2012.
The Estée Lauder Companies’ William Lauder and Veronique Gabai-Pinsky (r.) with Tory Burch
Aramis and Designer Fragrances, a division of The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. and Tory Burch LLC announced the signing of a multi-year agreement for the exclusive worldwide license of the Tory Burch fragrance business. This partnership marks Tory Burch’s first foray into the beauty industry.
Macy’s, Inc. unveiled a multiyear renovation at its flagship Herald Square location in New York City with work to begin in spring 2012. The company is investing approximately $400 million in capital in the project over the next four years. Additional selling space will be added to allow for expanded assortments and upgraded presentations in key merchandise categories. The Beauty International Düsseldorf trade fair will be held from March 9–11 in Düsseldorf, Germany. The fair will host 1,250 exhibitors and 50,000 attendees. Bordering the Atlantic Ocean on the prestigious Casablanca Corniche coast, Morocco Mall, a joint project carried out by AKSAL and Al Jedaie Groups, opens on December 5. Merging retail, leisure and cuisine, Morocco Mall offers visitors a unique “retailtainment” experience within 753,500 sq. ft. of commercial space. Estée Lauder has launched the brand’s official YouTube channel, Your Source for Expert Beauty Advice, with original videos showcasing Creative Makeup Director Tom Pecheux and global Spokesmodels Hilary Rhoda, Constance Jablonski, Liu Wen, Joan Smalls, Carolyn Murphy and Elizabeth Hurley. Perfumania Holdings, Inc. and Parlux Fragrances, Inc. have extended their Mutual Confidentiality Agreement, which allows the companies to proceed with discussions and customary due diligence regarding possible business combinations, through December 2, 2012.
Coty Prestige has signed an agreement with MG Icon LLC, a joint venture between Madonna, Guy Oseary and Iconix Brand Group, Inc., to launch Madonna’s first fragrance. The fragrance, Truth or Dare by Madonna, will debut exclusively at Macy’s in April 2012 in the United States, with global distribution beginning in May. Rochelle Bloom, President of The Fragrance Foundation, has announced her retirement when her contract ends at the end of the year. Ms. Bloom has held her role at the Foundation for the past 9 years. International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. announced the opening of their new state-of-the-art flavor and fragrance facility in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. The new site houses creative and applications labs as well as sales and marketing offices. The Personal Care Products Council has partnered with SAI Global to create a voluntary, customized supplier training and assessment program designed to verify cosmetic and personal care products manufacturers and suppliers operate in accordance with Good Manufacturing Practices that promote manufacturing quality excellence. The L’ORÉAL-UNESCO For Women in Science partnership has named the 5 women Scientists from around the world who will receive the 2012 L’ORÉAL-UNESCO Awards in Life Sciences. The 2012 Laureate for North America is Professor Bonnie Bassler, Howard Hughes Medical Institute Principal Investigator, Department of Molecular Biology at Princeton University. She was selected for her work in understanding chemical communication between bacteria and opening up new doors for treating infections. Lippe Taylor announced Jessica Goldberg DiPietro has assumed the position of Managing Director. Ms. DiPietro, previously Lippe Taylor’s Executive Vice President, Beauty, will expand her role to help manage day-to-day agency operations and growth opportunities. Mane USA announced the hiring of Ellen Molner as Principal Perfumer, VP Artistic Direction, at its New York City Creative Studio. Ms. Molner has previously held the position of VP Pefumer at IFF and Givaudan.
Coty Prestige has signed an agreement with Actress/Model Elisa Sednaoui to be the face of the new Roberto Cavalli fragrance for woman, to be revealed in February 2012.
DECEMBER 2011 /
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
INDUSTRY EAR
Cover FX has named Sharon Collier as CEO, effective January 1. Most recently, Ms. Collier was President and CEO of Laura Mercier Cosmetics and Skincare, RéVive Skincare and a member of the Board of Directors of Gurwitch Products.
Make up: Perfect Touch Radiance N°12, Touche Eclat N°6, Crème de Blush N°3, Ombre Solo N°1, Dessin du Regard N°1, Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils N°1, Rouge Pur Couture N°5
www.yslbeautyus.com EXCLUSIVE BEAUTY SECRETS OF THE WORLD’S TOP MAKEUP ARTISTS TOUCHE ÉCLAT illuminates and highlights the complexion with the perfect balance of coverage and radiance. We have your perfect shade – find it on yslbeautyus.com
Antoinette Hamilton has been promoted to Assistant Vice President of Diversity and Inclusion at L’Oréal USA. In her role, Ms. Hamilton will continue to spearhead strategic diversity initiatives which impact L’Oréal USA’s workforce, workplace and marketplace. Effective immediately, The Benchmarking Company has changed its name to The Beauty Company. As of October 31, Pacific World Corporation merged with The W.E. Bassett Company, creating the fifth largest cosmetics company and second largest nail care company by sales in food, drug, and mass retailers nationwide. The merger with The W.E. Bassett Company completes a series of four acquisitions/ mergers aimed to broaden Pacific World’s global scope. On October 12 at the Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s in NYC, the Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Association welcomed 23 new members to the group. New members include William Childs, Nancy Coffey, Brooke Coleman, Michael Patrick Curtis, Lesley Gadomski, Steven Gallo, Leslie Gurland, Mark Hasslebach, Joseph Hornstein, Bruno LeBault, Luis Lora, Warren McKinny, Heather Miele, Jennifer Nicosia, Parand Salmassin, Sheila Serbicki, Jimmy Silberman, Stephane Stanton-Brand, George Swatek III, Megan Yang, Thomas Barry, Daryl Briefer, Thomas Byrne and Tara Chacho. Women in Flavor & Fragrance Commerce (WFFC) has continued its support of Bottomless Closet, hosting two clothing drives this year and making a monetary donation, along with contributions to Susan G. Komen for the Cure, the Red Cross and the Food Allergy and Anaphylaxis Network. WFFC also directed proceeds from a charity dinner in September to the Averett University Autism Education Initiatives. The life-changing work of Young Women’s Leadership Network makes the dream of a college education for students in East Harlem a reality. Donations are now being accepted. Visit ywln. org for more information.
The 2012 edition of Luxe Pack Shanghai will take place from March 28 to 29, at the Shanghai International Convention Center.
Just the Numbers
In the first nine months of 2011, Givaudan recorded sales of CHF2,971 million, an increase of 4.7% in local currencies and a decline of 9.5% in Swiss francs compared to the previous year. Inter Parfums, Inc. announced that net sales for the third quarter of 2011 were approximately $171.7 million, a 42% increase from $120.9 million in the third quarter of 2010. For the fiscal year that ended on June 30, Procter & Gamble delivered organic sales growth of 4.0%, core earnings per share growth of 8.0% and increased the quarterly dividend by 9.0%. International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. reported third quarter 2011 revenue of $714 million, 6% higher than the prior year period. Avon Products, Inc. reported third-quarter 2011 total revenue of $2.8 billion, 6% higher than that of third-quarter 2010. Avon’s Beauty sales increased 8% year over year, with gains in all categories; fragrance, color, personal care, and skincare grew 12%, 9%, 6%, and 2%, respectively. For the quarter ended September 30, Elizabeth Arden, Inc. reported net sales of $303.5 million, an increase of 6.6%, as compared to the first quarter of the prior fiscal year. This 16th edition of Cosmoprof Asia, held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre from November 9-11, hosted 1,780 exhibitors and over 48,500 visitors-up 8% from 2010. According to research conducted by The NPD Group, Inc., during the first 10 months of 2011, total prestige fragrance dollar sales in U.S. department stores were $1.7 billion, a doubledigit gain of 10%, compared to the same time last year. Units grew 6% with close to 30 million units sold.
Glamour’s 2011 “Women of the Year” include Tory Burch, Laura Bush and daughters Barbara and Jenna, Jennifer Lopez, Lea Michele, Arianna Huffington and Gabrielle Giffords. Steve Cohn, Editor in Chief, Media Industry Newsletter
MIN’S Monthly Boxscores Source: Media Industry Newsletter <<>> 2011. Title Allure
NOVEMBER 2011
NOVEMBER 2010
% of Diff.
YTD 2011
YTD 2010
% of Diff.
97.10
81.87
18.60
1,071.49
1,053.81
1.68
Cosmopolitan
114.08
118.32
-3.58
1,333.33
1,362.58
-2.15
Elle
210.05
206.28
1.83
2,101.89
2,078.34
1.13
Glamour
100.49
132.79
-24.32
1,349.18
1,448.09
-6.83
Harper’s Bazaar
157.68
188.46
-16.33
1,466.25
1,591.33
-7.86
InStyle
200.28
197.18
1.57
2,259.04
2,240.83
0.81
Lucky
112.63
124.22
-9.33
1,003.38
1,071.87
-6.39
Marie Claire
144.22
119.25
20.94
1,282.25
1,209.62
6.00
Vogue
186.81
152.84
22.23
2,307.75
2,099.79
9.90
93.09
91.88
1.32
980.59
936.46
4.71
W
DECEMBER 2011 /
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AT-COUNTER
A Walk On The Line Side...With
COTY PRESTIGE Beauty Fashion Joined Robert Taylor And His Team To Branch In New York City And New Jersey
Coty Prestige’s Robert Taylor, Senior Vice President Specialty Stores invited Beauty Fashion to branch at specialty stores in New York City and at the Short Hills Mall in New Jersey to celebrate the launches of several fragrances this fall.
8:30 A.M. Coty Prestige New York City, New York Before beginning the store tour, Beauty Fashion met with Coty Prestige executives at their corporate office in Manhattan. Mr. Taylor explained how the fragrances are presented in-store is dependent on “the work of a collective group of individuals here, both in marketing or sales. The philosophy of our company is ‘faster, further, freer.’ To be faster, go further, and think more freely. We lead by these values. We all collectively meet our goals, whether it’s a short-term or a long-term project.” He describes Coty Prestige as an “aggressive organization that is moving forward, whether it’s establishing our core brands from Calvin Klein to the ultra-prestige group as well as getting into the skincare and color business. We have a collective interest in moving forward and becoming first and foremost in the industry. We have one of the most powerful and unique brand portfolios in the industry.” Coty Prestige’s Robert Taylor “With such a broad portfolio,” Coty Prestige’s Ava Huang, Senior Vice President, Marketing, explained, “we look for where we see the most growth opportunities and what sort of stage the different brands are in their product life cycle. We manage in those terms because ultimately, it’s a business, and we’re looking for overall macro-growth. There are certain brands, such as Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta that are Coty Prestige’s Ava Huang DECEMBER 2011 /
clearly smaller but have established Designers. We will incubate and/or nurture them for the long-term, so they can become classic or iconic brands within the fragrance category.” “We have large brands such as Calvin Klein, which has already transcended time in terms of the portfolio from its development in the 90s—the Eternity, Obsession and ck one years. How we continue to build on them while evolving the Euphoria franchise is very important to us.” “Celebrities play a very different role within our portfolio,” Ms. Huang continued. “They have their moments in the spotlight, and it is up to us to decide how best to capture that moment and whether it is possible to bring back that moment yet a second time.” She maintains that Coty’s motto, ‘faster, further, freer,’ “allows us to be very entrepreneurial and nimble, which is a great part of our success. We Coty Prestige’s Doreen LaSala-Coll have been able to build a very robust fragrance business and become leaders in the industry. There are also other areas that present tremendous opportunities for us, such as color cosmetics and skincare with Philosophy.” “The largest responsibility for my group is to take all of these prestige brands and raise their level,” Mr. Taylor shared. “We have Calvin Klein, which is basically a department store business and all of the ultraprestige Designer brands that the company keeps launching with many more on the table down the road. The specialty store business is very time-consuming and intensive, but it is Coty Prestige’s Alicia Case very successful for Coty Prestige.” “PUIG and most importantly Prada [within that portfolio] is a very big part of the ultra-prestige business. Prada
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a t
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A Walk On The Line Side...With COTY PRESTIGE is about 60% of PUIG’s business,” he declared. “We target; we focus. We launched three brands this fall, which is a challenge. Each brand has its own identity, and each Designer has their own expectations, but we are smart about it and pace the business. It’s a company with multiple facets.” PUIG US’ Beth Carr, Vice President, Market Development, treats each brand differently in her portfolio. “Paco Rabanne is very different from Prada, which is very different from Carolina Herrera.” “We have two major launches going on right now—Prada Candy and Paco Rabanne’s One Million and Lady Million, and I am very fortunate to be working with the Coty Prestige PUIG US’ Beth Carr team. They have done a spectacular job of bringing Prada Candy to life at-counter. Their specialty store team really knows how to nurture a brand and how to launch. Prada Candy launched #1 at Neiman Marcus and remains at that rank. We launched #1 at Nordstrom, and the numbers there as well as at Bloomingdale’s have been incredible. Prada Candy has a great program, great juice and great packaging,” Ms. Carr declared, “but without a great team like Coty Prestige behind it, you’re sunk.” She noted that Paco Rabanne’s Million master brand was introduced at Sephora a year ago and in August/September to Macy’s. “One Million and Lady Million are so animated at-counter. One Million is in the top ten at Macy’s.”
10:00 A.M. Saks Fifth Avenue New York City, New York
Coty Prestige’s Nicholas Truhan, Marilyn Couris, Ms. Case, Jeannette Pinto and Ms. LaSala-Coll
thrilled by the Chloé business as well as the very exciting Prada Candy and Bottega Veneta.” Mr. Taylor is very pleased by the performance of this [flagship] store. “The overall renovation of the floor is absolutely spectacular, and Saks has been very good to us in terms of real estate. We have probably one of the most outstanding teams of core Beauty Advisors
in this area.” Coty Prestige’s Doreen LaSala-Coll, Regional Vice President Specialty Stores agreed, adding, “One of our initiatives is to make sure all of our Beauty Advisors are certified by The Fragrance Foundation. This certification is an educational program that also builds upon their confidence. We’re very proud to Mr. Taylor (r.) and Beauty Fashion’s currently have all of our Saks Beauty Advi- George Ledes sors certified. We will be rolling this program out to all our BA’s in the NY Metro area since we have seen the success of the Saks team.”
10:30 A.M. Bloomingdale’s 59th Street
Saks Fifth Avenue’s Wendy Gottfried and Ondine Lamstein with Ms. LaSala-Coll, Mr. Taylor and Ms. Case at the Love, Chloé display
Saks Fifth Avenue’s Wendy Gottfried, Vice President/ DMM declared that Saks has been the exclusive launch partner for the Chloé fragrances for many years. “We are DECEMBER 2011 /
Mr. Taylor, Ms. LaSala-Coll and Ms. Case (r.) with Bloomingdale’s Yamile Narcisse and Melissa Berger
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HYDRATE PRIME ENHANCE M AT TIFY PROTECT BEFORE
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A Walk On The Line Side...With COTY PRESTIGE “The team at 59th Street usually meets or exceeds their visual week goals. Mercedes is the driving force behind the team, always challenging them using pre-sell, their knowledge of the brand, and of course, knowledge of the Bloomingdale’s customer.”
11:00 A.M. Lord & Taylor
Ms. Berger, Ms. Case, Mr. Taylor, Ms. LaSala-Coll and Bloomingdale’s Yarden Maoz at the Bottega Veneta visual
Ms. Narcisse, Bloomingdale’s Cheryl Russo, Coty Prestige’s Mercedes Vallejos and Ms. Case
Ms. LaSala-Coll praised the performance of Coty Prestige’s Business Manager at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street, Mercedes Vallejos, who manages 10 Beauty Advisors. “Mercedes has just had three consecutive launch weeks with Prada Candy, Balenciaga Paris L’Essence and Bottega Veneta.”
Ms. Vallejos reports to Mr. Taylor on the three consecutive Coty Prestige launches.
Mr. Taylor and Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore highlight the Bottega Veneta display.
Ms. Zinn-Moore, Coty Prestige’s Christine Aidiniou and Patricia Bologna with Lord & Taylor’s Beth Ravalico join Ms. Couris and Ms. Case.
Ms. Aidiniou and Ms. LaSalaColl point out the arches displaying Balenciaga Paris L’Essence in the caseline.
Balenciaga Paris’ L’Essence in Bloomingdale’s 59th Street’s window
Mr. Taylor declared “Coty Prestige’s real estate here at Lord & Taylor on the main aisle is probably one of the best presentations in the country. In this store, the team has had triple digit increases in the last six to seven months, and I’m so proud of them.” Ms. LaSala-Coll pointed out that Patricia Bologna, (Continued on page 48)
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SGD North America - 900 Third Avenue - New York - Tel: 1 212 753 4200
THELATESTLAUNCHES
Beauty Fashion’s HOT PICKS For The Holidays
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1 Reb’l Fleur by Rihanna 3.4 oz., $59.00 2 Douglas Hannant de Robert Piguet Parfums 3.4 oz., $120.00
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3 Judith Leiber Night 2.5 oz., $175.00
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4 VINCE CAMUTO Eau de Parfum 3.4 oz., $78.00
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5 Beyoncé Pulse 3.4 oz., $59.00 6 Angel Eau de Toilette by Thierry Mugler 2.7 oz., $97.00 7 Taylor Swift Wonderstruck 3.4 oz., $59.50
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8 Marc Jacobs Oh, Lola! 3.4 oz., $88.00 9 Givenchy Ange ou Démon Le Secret Elixir 3.4 oz., $99.00 10 Estée Lauder Sensuous Nude 3.4 oz., $90.00
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11 BCBGMAXAZRIA Fragrance 3.4 oz., $75.00 12 Betsey Johnson Too Too 3.4 oz., $82.00 13 Lady Million by Paco Rabanne 2.7 oz., $88.00
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14 Tom Ford Violet Blonde 50 ml, $100.00
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THE SPIRIT OF FEMININITY
INTRODUCING
ESPRIT D’OSC AR EAU DE PARFUM
WWW.OSCARDELARENTA.COM
Beauty Fashion’s HOT PICKS For The Holidays
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1 Dior J’adore Eau de Toilette 3.4 oz., $90.00 8
2 Oscar de la Renta live in love 3.4 oz., $98.00
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3 Kenzo Flower Tag 3.4 oz., $83.00
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4 ELIE SAAB Le Parfum 3 oz., $120.00 5 CHANEL No19 Poudré 3.4 oz., $115.00 6 SOMEDAY by Justin Bieber 3.4 oz., $55.00
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7 Versace Yellow Diamond 3.4 oz., $88.00
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8 Lancôme Trésor Midnight Rose 2.5 oz., $75.00 5
9 Fan di Fendi 75 ml, $92.00
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10 Snooki by Nicole Polizzi 3.3 oz., $45.00 11 Burberry Body 2.8 oz., $95.00 12 Especially Escada 1.7 oz., $62.00 13 Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum 2.5 oz., $130.00 6
14 Balenciaga Paris L’Essence 2.5 oz., $130.00 15 Prada Candy 2.7 oz., $108.00
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Beauty Fashion’s HOT PICKS For The Holidays
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1 Clinique Chubby Stick Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm $15.00 2 Lancôme Hypnôse Doll Lashes $25.00
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3 tarte Amazonian clay 12-hour blush $25.00 3
4 CHANEL Rouge Coco Shine $32.00 5 Dermablend Professional Brushes $22.00-40.00 6 Dior Deluxe Holiday Palette $77.00
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7 NP Set Eyelash $10.00 8 Sally Hansen Salon Effects Real Nail Polish Strips $9.99 9 Tom Ford Beauty Lip Color $48.00
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10 M·A·C Dazzlesphere! Smoky Berry Ornament $32.50
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11 La Prairie Cellular Luxe Lip Colour $40.00 12 Laura Mercier Baked Eye Colour Palette 15 $48.00 13 Guerlain Rouge G de Guerlain Lipcolor $47.00 14 CHANEL Recourbe Cils De CHANEL Precision Eyelash Curler $34.00 15 bliss fabulips instant lip plumper $22.00
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16 Clé de Peau Beauté Extra Rich Lipstick $60.00 17 Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Shadow Pencil $20.00
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18 L’Oréal Paris Extra-Intense Carbon Black Eyeliner $8.95
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9 1 1 CHANEL Sublimage La Crème 1.7 oz., $390.00 2 Bath & Body Works® Be Enchanted™ Body Lotion 8 oz., $11.00 2
3 La Prairie Advanced Marine Biology Revitalizing Emulsion FACE · EYES · NECK 3 1.7 oz., $135.00
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4 Jurlique Enriching Body Cream 5.2 oz., $35.00 5 Estée Lauder Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator 12 1.7 oz., $85.00 6 Shiseido Replenishing Body Cream 200 ml, $72.00 7 Orlane Thermo Lift Firming Care 50 ml, $250.00 8 Lancôme Visionnaire [LR 2412 4%] Advanced Skin Corrector 1 oz., $84.00
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9 Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare™ Alpha Beta® Glow Pads 10 Towelettes, $18.00
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10 Clé de Peau Beauté Intensive Eye Contour Cream 15 ml, $250.00 11 Tom Ford Beauty Purifying Crème Cleanser 5 oz., $60.00
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12 fresh Seaberry Exfoliating Soap 7 oz., $16.50 6
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13 philosophy the gingerbread man shampoo, shower gel & bubble bath 16 oz., $16.00 14 bliss triple oxygen instant energizing cleansing foam 5 oz., $28.00 15 Hydroxatone® Hydrolyze® Advanced Under Eye Formula .5 oz., $80.00
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16 RéVive Intensité Crème Lustre SPF 30 2 oz., $375.00 ™
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17 Clarisonic® Mia™ Sonic Skin Cleansing System $119.00
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Beauty Fashion’s HOT PICKS For The Holidays
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1 An Original Penguin by Munsingwear 3.4 oz., $65.00 2 CHANEL Bleu de CHANEL After Shave Balm 3 oz., $50.00
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3 Guess Seductive Homme 3.4 oz., $65.00 4 Anthony Logistics For Men Holiday Body Cleansing Gel 32 oz., $35.00 5 Gilette Fusion ProSeries Thermal Face Scrub 3.3 oz., $7.99
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6 AHAVA Time To Energize Soothing After-Shave Moisturizer 1.7 oz., $30.00
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7 Giorgio Armani Armani Code Sport 2.5 oz., $73.00
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8 Paco Rabanne 1 Million 3.4 oz., $75.00 5
9 Victorinox Swiss Unlimited Snow Power Eau de Toilette 1 oz., $55.00
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10 Calvin Klein ck one shock for him 3.4 oz., $50.00
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11 Miracle Skin Transformer Men SPF20 $48.00 12 Art of Shaving Full Size Kit, 4 Elements of The Perfect Shave® $100.00 13 KAPLAN MD Skincare Daily Moisture SPF 30 Concentrate 1.7 oz., $185.00
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14 Ralph Lauren Big Pony Collection for Men Fragrance Coffret Set 15 $45.00 15 Jack Black RxSeries DIY Power Peel Multi-Acid Resurfacing Pads $38.00 9
16 GANT fragrance for men 3.4 oz., $89.50 16 DECEMBER 2011 /
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BF
THE NEW EAU DE TOILETTE
Eva Mendes
Best wishes to all of our partners for a fantastic holiday season and a prosperous new year. We thank you for sharing our dreams.
Download the application on your mobile device.
DREAM MACHINE
Experience the world of Thierry Mugler on www.mugler.com
BEYOND FRAGRANCE
Feel extraordinary
Photographer: Thierry Mugler
Eva Mendes
THEPARTYSCENE
Luminaries Spotlighted P&G Prestige’s Don Loftus with The Estée Lauder Companies’ Caroline Geerlings and Nancy Feetham
Lord & Taylor’s Brendan Hoffman, People StyleWatch’s Susan Kaufman, Buckingham Capital Management’s Daniel Schwarzwalder and Laurence Leeds
Saks Fifth Avenue’s Steve Sadove and Karin Sadove
Givaudan’s Rodrigo Flores-Roux with CHANEL’s Joyce Green
CHANEL’s Stephen Bogunia and Elizabeth Mankin
IFF’s Lorenzo Cavallaro with Avon’s Eileen Higgins
IFF’s Nicolas Mirzayantz with FGI’s Margaret Hayes
FEED Projects’ Lauren Bush Lauren and David Lauren
Oscar de la Renta with Oscar de la Renta’s Alex Bolen
Give Back Brands’ Noreen Dodge with Arcade Marketing’s Larry Berman
Lord & Taylor’s Barbara ZinnMoore, LVMH Fragrance Brands’ Nicholas Munafo and Jessica Barlow (r.) with W’s Jane Larkworthy
Elizabeth Arden’s Art Spiro (2nd l.) with Givaudan’s Lauren Bitet, Geraldine Nicolai and Kathy Torelli
The Fashion Group International (FGI) drew the glitterati to their annual Night of Stars on October 27 to honor The Luminaries, those women and men who have made a significant impact on design and culture. The Luminaries who received awards were Superstars: Saks Fifth Avenue’s CEO Steve Sadove and President Ronald Frasch presented by Oscar de la Renta; Fashion: Raf Simons for Jil Sander presented by Cathy Horyn, Kate and Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte presented by Edward Enninful and Giambattista Valli presented by Jessica Biel; Beauty: François Nars presented by Isabella Rossellini; Architecture:
Mr. Leeds and Mr. Schwarzwalder (r.) with Saks Fifth Avenue’s Ronald Frasch
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THEPARTYSCENE
on the avenue
on the avenue Ms. Bloom, Givaudan’s Kate Oscar de la Renta’s Greene with Michelle de Bourbon LVMH’s Terry and Jean Hoehn Darland, Lisa Zimmerman (r.) Hawkins and with Firmenich’s Linda Maiocco Theo Spilka
Arcade Marketing’s Diane Crecca and Debra Leipman-Yale (r.) with The Estée Lauder Companies’ Joe Cook
Mr. Rosen with SGD’s Shéhérazade Chamlou and Peter Acerra
Saks Fifth Avenue’s Deborah Walters François Nars with Allure’s with Christian Dior’s Pamela Baxter Linda Wells
Givaudan’s Rose Eckert, Kate Greene and Cathy Torelli
Mr. Spilka with Brioni’s Jason Basmajian
Marc Rosen Associates’ Kevin Marshall (c.) with KX Associates’ Annik Klein and Elaine Hamnett
Nars Cosmetics’ Louis Desazars (c.) with Ms. Larkworthy and Vogue’s Sarah Brown
Givaudan’s Rodrigo Flores-Roux (c.) Mr. Rosen with Macy’s Linda Levy with Inter Parfums’ Sioux Saunders and Givaudan’s Cos Policastro and Kristin Spinn
Arthur Gensler presented by Cindy Allen; Corporate Leadership: Andrew Rosen presented by Sally Singer; Fashion Provocateur: Daphne Guinness presented by Valerie Steele; Humanitarian: Lauren Bush Lauren presented by David Lauren; Board of Directors Legend: Wanda Ferragamo and Lord & Taylor Fashion Oracle: Amar’e Stoudemire presented by Brendan Hoffman
Doubles Club in Manhattan was the scene of a reception to celebrate Marc Rosen’s new book that is all about glamour. On November 2, Mr. Rosen held a book signing for Glamour Icons, and the beauty industry’s elite popped in to congratulate the Author.
Rosen Launches Glamour Icons
Glamour’s Women Of The Year Glamour’s Jason Wagenheim and Cindi Leive (r.) with L’Oréal Paris’ Karen Fondu join Jenna Bush Hager, Laura Bush and Barbara Bush.
Arlene Dahl, Marc Rosen and The Fragrance Foundation’s Rochelle Bloom
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THELATESTLAUNCHES
Beauty Fashion has taken note of two new additions in the skincare arena for their innovative formulas and unique product offerings that work to restore younger looking skin.
RADICAL SOLUTION Born out of a no-nonsense “it is my time and I intend to make the most of it” attitude, Radical Skincare was founded by Liz and Rachel Edlich, daughters of leading Plastic Surgeon and skin healing specialist, Dr. Richard F. Edlich MD., Ph.D. Radical Skincare is comprised of ground-breaking antioxidant and age-erasing formulas that help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, repair and hydrate the epidermal layer of skin, neutralize free radicals and promote healthy skin cells and collagen growth. The Radical Skincare line has been clinically proven to contain the highest antioxidant-potency available in a skincare product, due to the brand’s proprietary Trylacel™ technology. A breakthrough in suspension technology, Trylacel™ works to retain the efficacy of the ingredients to deliver maximum benefits and results. Each product contains multiple antioxidants, including resveratrol, acai berry, grapeseed extract, green tea and coffee berry extract, to address the many types of free radicals and reactive oxygen species found in the skin. Each product is free of all parabens and has been designed for all skin types, including sensitive skin. The berrybronze color of the products reveals their true potency. Just as natural fruits with the highest antioxidant values are red, blue, or purple, the products in this line maintain their potency as well as their natural coloring. Radical Skincare suspends antioxidants in airless bottles to keep the creams and serums fresh, powerful, and to protect the antioxidant rich, highly active ingredients. The airless containers enable the products to have an indefinite shelf life. The Radical Skincare line consists of 75 ml Hydrating Cleanser, 30 ml Peptide Infused Antioxidant Serum, 30 ml Youth Infusion Age Defying Serum, 50 ml Restorative Moisture, 15 ml Eye Revive Cream, 30 ml Firming Neck Gel and Age-Defying Exfoliating Pads. The products range in price from $65.00 to $170.00 and are available at Barneys New York, barneys.com and radicalskincare.com. The Radical Skincare product range
QUEST FOR RADIANCE Tom Ford believes that a truly beautiful face begins with skin that appears energized, clear and radiant. It is with this philosophy, and his personal passion for advanced skincare treatments, that led him to design a focused range of treatments that fuse a deeply luxurious, sensory experience with high-performing active formulas. Tom Ford Beauty introduces two proprietary complexes that incorporate energizing and detoxifying agents from the naturally derived traditions of East and West, as well as from the laboratories of contemporary science. SKUs from the Tom Ford Beauty skincare collection The TOM FORD PURIFYING COMPLEX, found in the collection’s cleansers, frees skin of dulling and damaging toxins by combining a European plant extract with Chinese herbs to promote purification and reduce irritating environmental pollutants. The TOM FORD INFUSING COMPLEX, found in the treatments and primer, infuses skin with a potent combination of specially selected nutrients that help skin stimulate its natural repair mechanisms. By helping skin cells replenish their natural energy, it fundamentally rejuvenates the complexion, making skin look and feel brighter and fresher. The Tom Ford Beauty line of skincare products consists of 150 ml Purifying Gelée Cleanser, 150 ml Purifying Crème Cleanser, 50 ml Intensive Infusion Daily Moisturizer, 50 ml Intensive Infusion Ultra Rich Moisturizer, 30 ml Intensive Infusion Concentrate Extreme, 15 ml Intensive Infusion Eye Treatment, 150 ml Makeup Remover and 30 ml Illuminating Protective Primer SPF 12. The collection ranges in price from $45.00 to $250.00 and is available at Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Tom Ford boutiques. BF DECEMBER 2011 /
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THELATESTLAUNCHES
SKINCARE STANDOUTS
ANT, a lifestyle brand offering a full range of clothing for men, women and children, accessories and home furnishings, has now introduced the GANT fragrance for men. Developed by Robertet’s Perfumers Pierre Wulff and Jérôme Epinette, it is presented in a flacon designed by Pierre Dinand. According to David Arbuthnot, CEO of GANT USA, GANT fragrance for men launched globally November 1 at 250 GANT stores. Prior to November 1, GANT fragrance for men was launched a few days earlier at the Fifth Avenue store without any promotions. “We put out the fragrance on the floor and within two hours, we had sold 10 bottles. First-week sales at the store out-performed our forecast, and we have placed significant reorders in anticipation of holiday sales,” Mr. Arbuthnot noted. “ Th e m e s s a g e o f t h e G A N T fragrance for men engages the customer from our outside windows and at the moment they enter the store where the scent is on display. Fragrance is also in the air because we have room sprays on both of our floors.” Mr. Arbuthnot said that GANT The window at GANT’s New York flagship store on Fifth Avenue where GANT fragrance uses merchandising tricks to engage for men is displayed along with the the customer. “Our beautiful adver- GANT fragrance for men is showcased advertising visual at the entrance to the Fifth Avenue store. tising imagery is placed near the entrance of the store, and a fragrance tray, lit from within, provides visual cues. We have room sprays on and around our fixtures, carpeting and in the changing rooms. We also spray GANT fragrance for men in our shopping bags and on tissue paper, so there is a sensory cue as well.” Mr. Arbuthnot disclosed that GANT has general, in-store guidelines for its retail teams. “We allow local personalization store-specific but very much in line with the GANT image, which is authentic American sportswear.” GANT’s Bob Andrews, Creative Director, wanted to express the company’s nautical heritage through the GANT fragrance for men’s bottle and its in-store presentation. “The bottle, inspired by old wicker baskets on fishing boats, has been dyed through the glass instead of spraying blue color on the surface. It is topped with a Bakelite cap that has a nice touch when you open the bottle. We wanted to go with the best in the fragrance and bottle for GANT fragrance for men, because we are a company known for our quality in fashion and home furnishings.” Mr. Andrews created all of the promotional campaign and in-store presentation for GANT fragrance for men. “At GANT’s David Arbuthnot with Robertet’s Jérôme Epinette and Pierre Wulff at the GANT fragrance for men’s fragrance tray lit our GANT stores, we want to blend an American brand from within with a European touch. We want to bring customers into (Continued on page 55) DECEMBER 2011 /
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AT-COUNTER
AT-COUNTER
GANT FRAGRANCE GOES GLOBAL G
THEBEAUTYBIZ
IQUE AT CEW
WOMEN IN BEAUTY SERIES
O
n October 27, Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) hosted a Women in Beauty Series event presenting three key players from Clinique at the Harmonie Club in New York City. The discussion featured Agnes Landau, Senior Vice President of Global Marketing; Janet Pardo, Senior Vice President of Product Development Worldwide and Lynne Greene, Global Brand President of Clinique, Origins and Ojon, providing insight into the ways in which the company adheres to its core DNA while advancing into the future. Clinique’s roots as the first Dermatologist-developed brand began in 1968. A pioneering concept from the Carlotta Jacobson with Clinique’s Janet Pardo, Lynne Greene and outset, Clinique has since evolved with the changing CEW’s Agnes Landau skincare and beauty landscape without interfering with its heritage or brand equity. “It is not about recreating the brand, it’s modernizing the feeling of what the brand has always been to the consumer,” stated Ms. Greene. “Each member of the team has respect for the history of Clinique and that generates a great trust we have with each other as well as with the consumer.” Ms. Pardo added, “Instinct plays a huge role in everything that we do. We know immediately if a new concept is a Clinique idea and when it is not.” The panelists noted that innovation within the brand isn’t always simple. “Remarkable innovation and white space ideas are generally controversial because they’re unfamiliar,” said Ms. Greene. She shared the story of Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector’s inception and the wavering need for a product of its kind. “Consumers don’t know that their problems can be solved. We can give solutions to problems that they never thought possible.” She stated that success with innovation is about “being in the right place, at the right time and inspiring the consumer to connect with it.” Approximately 60% of Clinique’s business is done outside of North America, and reaching consumers in varying geographical locations requires extensive research. “We do a lot of consumer research, but while research says one thing, evidence says another. It’s important to listen to what the consumer tells you and what she doesn’t,” said Ms. Landau. “We must learn about the nuances of each culture. We see ourselves as cultural anthropologists.”
Clinique’s Tony Teri, Laura Manuele and Mike LaMalfa
mark.’s Ralph Vestblom, Marissa Orlando-Elmer, Micki Nam and Gail Boyé
(Continued on page 52) DECEMBER 2011 /
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
MOVING FORWARD WITH
THELATESTLAUNCHES ESTLA AUNCHES
SHADES OF BEAUTY Rimmel London’s Lasting Finish Lipstick by Kate Moss
LONDON CALLING
Kate Moss’ bold, Supermodel style has been captured in a collection of lipsticks presented by Rimmel London. In honor of Ms. Moss’ ten years as the face of the brand, Rimmel London has introduced Lasting Finish Lipstick by Kate Moss. Housed in a matte black bullet, reflecting Ms. Moss’ signature style, each lipstick contains natural moisturizers that deliver a rich, creamy texture that stays put. Vitamins C and E provide essential, antioxidant protection while a black diamond pigment complex works to create an enhanced, radiant color. The Lasting Finish Lipstick by Kate Moss collection includes 5 fashion-forward shades for the price of $5.49 each. They are available at mass market retailers and drugstores nationwide.
HOLIDAY CHEER
Bringing heat to the chilliest time of the year, M·A·C Cosmetics’ Ice Parade collection includes 3 variations of Eyeshadow x6. Each palette includes 6 shades of eyeshadow that are contained in snow globeinspired compacts. They are priced at $38.00 each. The collection also includes 2 options of the Iced Delights Lip Bag, $38.00; 3 options of the Iced Delights Nail & Lip Bag, $36.00 and 3 options of the Iced Delights Eye Bag, $45.00. M·A·C Cosmetics’ Glitter and Ice collection includes 3 shades of Paint Pots, 6 shades of Mineralize Eye Shadow, 2 shades of Beauty Powder, 3 shades of Nail Lacquer, 1 set of Lash 7, 6 shades of Lipstick, 6 shades of Dazzleglass, 6 shades of Technakohl Liner and 1 shade of SKUs from the Dazzlesphere! collection from M·A·C Cosmetics Opulash Mascara. The collection is priced between $15.00-24.00. The Dazzlesphere! collection features kits of cosmetics festively packaged in clear ornaments. The collection includes the Mini Nail Lacquer Kit for the price of $25.50 and 3 variants each of the Crushed Metallic Pigment Kits and Mini Gloss Kits, $32.50. New products in the Viva Glam collection are also offered for the holiday. The Viva Glam Melt Your Heart Lip Bag, featuring 2 shades of Lipstick, is available for $36.00. The Viva Glam Kids Helping Kids Tree Teddy Holiday Ornament, with silver teddy bear and Lipglass, is priced at $18.00. All proceeds from the Viva Glam line goes directly toward the M·A·C AIDS Fund, which benefits women, men and children affected by HIV/AIDS. The latest products are available now at all M·A·C Cosmetics locations and maccosmetics.com.
CHIC COLLECTION
Tom Ford introduces his first color collection, an edited wardrobe of sumptuous colors that makes Mr. Ford’s signature look—sensual eyes, bold cheeks and lacquered lips— achievable with minimum effort and maximum effectiveness. Tom Ford Beauty lip offerings include Lip Color in 18 shades for $48.00; Ultra Shine Lip Gloss in 10 shades, $45.00 and a Lip Lacquer, $30.00. A selection of illuminating and sculpting products is offered to perfect the complexion and enhance facial features. The collection includes 10 shades of Traceless Foundation Stick, 8 shades of Illuminating Highlight Pen, 2 intensities of Shade and Illuminate, 4 shades of Translucent Finishing Powder, 6 shades of buildable Cheek Color, Illuminating Powder and Traceless Foundation SPF 15. They are priced from $52.00 to $78.00. For the eyes, the line includes 10 Eye Quads, 6 shades of Eye Defining Pencil, 4 sculpting shades of Brow Sculptor, Noir Absolute for Eyes and Extreme Mascara. The products are priced from $35.00 to $75.00. Nail Lacquer is offered in 16 shades, priced at $30.00 each. A selection of products Makeup brushes for the face, eyes, cheeks and lips are available in 12 styles. These tools from the Tom Ford combine white horse hair, super goat hair and synthetic fibers according to the specific needs of Beauty color range each color product and work in harmony with the formulas to make a professional-looking face easy to achieve. The brushes range in price from $45.00 to $110.00. The Tom Ford Beauty color collection is available at Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Tom Ford boutiques. BF D E C E M BE BER 2011 /
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
2011 STATE OF THE INDUSTRY
O
n November 17, The Fragrance Foundation hosted its annual State of the Industry luncheon at the Harvard Club in New York City. Each year, industry experts weigh in on the current economic environment, its effect on the personal care market and forecast what’s to come. The speakers at this year’s event included Wendy Liebmann, Founder, CEO and Chief Shopper for WSL Strategic Retail; Carrie Mellage, Director of Consumer Products for Kline & Company; Lynn Franco, Director of the Consumer Research Center for The Conference Board and Michael Edwards, Author of Fragrances of the World. This year, the overall US personal care market surpassed pre-recession levels, which Kline & Company expected to come in at WSL Strategic Retail’s Wendy Liebmann and Kline & Company’s Carrie Mellage join The Conference Board’s Lynn Franco and Michael Edwards of Fragrances of the World. $56 billion dollars in sales for 2011. While Ms. Mellage partially credited the sales boost to a stronger stock market, robust launch activity and consumers growing tired of being frugal, she attributed key growth to a record number of foreign tourists, up 13% to prior year, seeking luxury brands and attracted to the weak US dollar. The increasing use of the Internet and mobile apps, allowing consumers to shop more conscientiously, additionally factored into the rise in sales. Ms. Liebmann also acknowledged the smarter shopper, noting a complete shift in the consumer mindset. “The fears from the recession aren’t going away, but there is an extraordinary resilience in the mind of the American shopper,” she said. “The consumer has accepted her new reality and is learning to be smarter about her money.” She recognized that consumers have a larger skill set for wiser purchasing than they did even 12 months ago, stating that technology is driving business forward. Data from WSL Strategic Retail found that 47% of shoppers use their mobile phones while shopping in-store. Consumers reported using their smartphones to compare prices, send photos to their friends for their approval, upload coupons as well as search for product information and customer reviews.
Palm Beach Beauté’s Paul Smith with Ted Boccuzzi of Advanced Distribution Systems
Pochet’s Gerald Walle with Rochelle Bloom of The Fragrance Foundation
Robertet’s Jennifer Powderly with Alison Chaneski of Givaudan
(Continued on page 53) DECEMBER 2011 /
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
THE FRAGRANCE F O U N D AT I O N ’ S
Part IV
H liday Gift Sets
THELATESTLAUNCHES
Style meets beauty with this holiday gift set. Choose from three metallic cosmetics bags embossed with the Michael Kors pattern and filled with limitededition Estée Lauder products. Each set priced at $39.50 with any Estée Lauder fragrance purchase. DKNY Golden Delicious Travel Exclusive Holiday Set
For the price of $57.00, the DKNY Golden Delicious Holiday Set includes a 50 ml Eau de Parfum Spray and a 100 ml Body Lotion. It is available worldwide in Travel Retailing. Tommy Girl by Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl Essentials
Exclusively offered in Travel Retailing, this
gift box contains a 100 ml Eau de Cologne, 50 ml Body Lotion and 50 ml Body Wash of the Tommy Girl fragrance. It is priced at $51.50. CLARINS FRAGRANCE GROUP Azzaro Chrome Legacy Gift Set
This holiday, indulge him with this collection that includes a 1.7 oz. Eau de Toilette Spray, 1.7 oz. After Shave Lotion and 2.7 oz. Deodorant Stick. Presented in a metallic silver gift box, the set is valued at $97.00 and retails for $62.00.
Caviar Illuminating Cream opens up to house the full-sized White Caviar Illuminating Système, including a 50 ml White Caviar Illuminating Cream, 30 ml White Caviar Illuminating Serum and 15 ml White Caviar Illuminating Eye Serum, as well as complementary deluxe travel samples. This set is priced $950.00.
LAURA MERCIER Exclusive Day to Night Neutrals Set
LA PRAIRIE Irresistible Caviar
For the price of $195.00, receive a 30 ml Skin Caviar Luxe Cream jar that is beautifully wrapped in a velvet, cobalt box and topped with a silver bow. Luminous White Caviar Collection A larger than life-size replica of the White
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For the price of $125.00, this cosmetic bag contains a 1 oz. Mini Foundation Primer, Lip Glace, a full-size Full Blown Volume Mascara, 3-well charger equipped with shades for the eyes and cheeks, Mini Eye Pencil and brushes for application. M·A·C Festive Frost Face Kit This double-layer
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compact with a snow globe decoration contains an eyeshadow quad, Seasonal Appeal Blush, Lipglass in Join the Party, Lipstick in Mellowarm and three brushes. Priced at $49.50, it is available exclusively at Nordstrom.
NARS COSMETICS Hanamichi KabukiInspired Eyeshadow Palette
This eyeshadow palette features 3 shades that evoke the hues found in Kabuki Theater and includes a mini Kabuki Eye Brush. It is priced at $65.00. Mie Kabuki Mini Soft Touch Shadow Pencil Coffret
Just like its namesake, Mie Kabuki—which references a moment of high emotion culminating in an extremely dramatic pose—6 miniature Soft Touch Shadows create bold looks. The set is priced at $55.00. BF
THELATESTLAUNCHES
THE ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES Estée Lauder by Michael Kors
Sparkle Plenty Versace Yellow Diamond is a new luxury fragrance by Versace. This floral, fruity, woody scent is the newest inspiration from Donatella Versace, who wanted customers to have another piece from the couture house of Versace. The fragrance’s head includes citron from Diamante, pear sorbet, bergamot and neroli. Its heart of nymphea, freesia, orange blossom and mimosa is based on a dry-out of amber wood, palo santo and musk. The essential lines of Versace Yellow Diamond’s flacon have precisely placed facets to maximize the color and brilliance of the juice. The faceted crystal cap is Versace Yellow Diamond is Donatella Versace’s newest jewel. cut as a real diamond to create games of light. The carton, ranging from pale to vivid yellow, is imprinted with the characteristic Baroque Versace decoration and a sparkling blue logo. Versace Yellow Diamond comes in a 1 oz. Eau de Toilette Spray for $50.00; 1.7 oz., $67.00 and 3.4 oz., $88.00. The collection also includes a 6.7 oz. The advertisBody Lotion for $42.00. The line is available now at Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s, ing campaign shot by Mario Dillard’s, Lord & Taylor, Nordstrom and Sephora nationwide. Testino and The fragrance will be promoted by an advertising campaign shot in Paris by starring Mario Testino with the creative direction of Ms. Versace. It stars Australian top Abbey Lee Kershaw Model Abbey Lee Kershaw. The TV commercial plays with an investigation concerning a very precious jewel. It features a handsome man who takes a yellow diamond out of a briefcase. While staring at its crystals, he sees an unexpected secret, the reflections of a goddess-like woman dancing harmoniously. The man is satisfied and closes the deal. It is implied that the solution is enclosed in the perfume.
Sharing The Secret
Ange ou Démon Le Secret Elixir by Givenchy
The secret is out. Givenchy offers a new, olfactory interpretation of Ange ou Démon Le Secret—Ange ou Démon Le Secret Elixir. The facets between light and shade are enriched with new reflections in this scent. The luminous notes of this Eau de Parfum take on a deeply sensual opulence. An advertising visual for Ange ou Démon Le Secret Elixir was shot by Mario Testino and is built around Uma Thurman, ultrafeminine in an Haute Couture white dress by Riccardo Tisci. Ms. Thurman appeared at the launch of the fragrance at Lord & Taylor. See our coverage in this issue’s Beauty Flash.
The advertising campaign for Ange ou Démon Le Secret Elixir starring Uma Thurman
Scent From The Jersey Shore Snooki by Nicole Polizzi expresses the Snooki style in every spritz.
A splash of Snooki by Nicole Polizzi envelops the customer in a new, fruity gourmand. Ms. Polizzi, the Jersey Shore star, was involved in every phase of her namesake fragrance. She incorporated her signature style in everything from the bold animal print patterns and spike details on the bottle to the fragrant mixture of her scent.
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The graphics on the packaging are inspired by Nicole Polizzi’s signature style.
THELATES THELATESTLAUNCHES
Scentsory Perceptions
THELATESTLAUNCHES
New male-centric skincare and scents
ENERGY LEVEL AHAVA Dead Sea Laboratories has relaunched its skincare line for men as Time to Energize. This collection is powered by Osmotor™, the balanced concentrate of active Dead Sea minerals as well as the G Force blend of gingko, ginger root and ginseng. The product range of face and body care products are unique to the metabolism of a man’s skin and produce an energetic, revitalizing effect that echoes AHAVA’s new corporate tagline, “my skin reborn.” Dr. Ze’evi Maor, AHAVA’s Vice President of Product Development, informed, “They are now all free of parabens and SLS.” AHAVA’s Time to Energize range including the newest The Time to Energize range includes Age-Control Moisturizing formula—Age-Control Moisturizing Cream SPF 15. Cream SPF 15 in 50 ml for $32.00; Soothing After-Shave Moisturizer in 50 ml, $30.00; Exfoliating Cleansing Gel in 100 ml, $19.00; Foam-Free Shave in 200 ml, $19.00 and Mineral Hand Cream in 100 ml, $20.00. AHAVA’s Time to Energize collection is available at ahavaus.com and fine retailers nationwide. Beauté Prestige International offers L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Eau de Toilette Concentrée in holiday limited-edition golden finery.
GOLD RUSH
L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Eau de Toilette Concentrée is wrapped in absolute gold. The juice presented in this holiday limited-edition was formulated by Firmenich’s Perfumer, Olivier Cresp. Its top note of candied apricot is blended with lotus, a Miyake signature keynote. The middle note of jasmine and lily of the valley is based on amber and woody notes. L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Gold Absolute comes in a 3.3 oz. Eau de Toilette Concentrée for $79.00 and is available now at Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s and Macy’s.
LIP SERVICE Jack Black has introduced the Balm Squad Lip Quad with two new flavors, Shea Butter & Vitamin E and Mango & Mandarin, which are added to Natural Mint & Shea Butter as well as Lemon & Chamomile. The limited-edition quad, available exclusively for the holidays, is priced at $25.00 and valued at $30.00. It is now at Blue Mercury and Beauty Bar Cosmetics stores.
Jack Black’s Balm Squad Lip Quad has an SPF 25.
MODERN ART Eau Monumentale by Thirdman can be splashed or sprayed liberally.
Eaux by Thirdman present a trio of scents that are refreshing and invigorating yet minimal olfactive compositions. Each juice, high in refreshing citrus essences, is meant to be applied liberally. They are for both men and women. The collection of Eaux by Thirdman includes Eau Monumentale, Eau Moderne and Eau Profonde. Each formulation is created around one iconic ingredient chosen for its naturally stimulating and beautiful character. The three scents are presented in the Thirdman minimal, utilitarian glass cylinder with a removable natural spray or ‘splash-on’ stopper for a variety of applications. The flacons are placed in powder-blue boxes. The Eaux by Thirdman come in a 50 ml size for $75.00; 250 ml, $150.00 and 500 ml, $250.00. They are available at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. BF DECEMBER 2011 /
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THELATESTLAUNCHES
FOR MEN ONLY
THEBEAUTYBIZ
ragrant points of distribution in New York City were destinations of the Sniffapalooza group’s Fall Ball. Fragrance aficionados spent October 22 and 23 sniffing and sampling in uptown and downtown Manhattan. The group began their two-day odyssey at Bergdorf Goodman where fragrances presented included CHANEL, Palm Beach Beauté’s Judith Leiber Night, Balenciaga Paris, Bottega Veneta, Tom Ford Violet Blonde and A Dozen Roses. The Sniffapaloozas breakfasted while sniffing the super-luxe scents.
IFF’s Anahita Mekanik holds one of the Thirdman Eau de Colognes in Bergdorf Goodman’s fragrance department.
The Musmanno Group’s Elizabeth Musmanno with A Dozen Roses’ Lynn Emmolo at Bergdorf Goodman
Palm Beach Beauté’s Sandra Lang and Joan Strubbe showcase Judith Leiber Night.
Bergdorf Goodman’s Diana Yasnis with Ms. Strubbe
Bergdorf Goodman’s Bill Brobston with Sniffapalooza’s Karen Dubin
Bergdorf Goodman’s Maddi Marlowe and Joanna Weglich
After shopping at Bergdorf’s, the group headed over to Manhattan’s Opia restaurant where speakers shared their interpretations of scent. Robert Piguet Parfums’ Speakers included M.J. Rose, Author Nicola Nichols of The Book of Lost Fragrances, the displays Douglas Founders of The Fragrance Club Hannant de Robert Piguet at (thefragranceclub.com) and Miriam Henri Bendel. Driot on Technique Indiscrête. Visits to Henri Bendel, Krigler Perfumery in The Plaza and Bond No. 9 on Madison Bond No. 9’s Donna Winsell, Mark Vincent Avenue and 61 st Street concluded and Jennifer Colón Saturday’s itinerary. Sunday was devoted to scent-spotting in downtown New York City. The day began at the Soho Grand Hotel where the Sniffapalooza group experienced Navigations Through Scent, a Master Class presented by Molton Brown. The group then moved on to Le Labo and MiN NY before lunch at Barolo where speakers introduced their new fragrances. (Continued on page 56)
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SCENT TREKKERS’ ODYSSEY IN MANHATTAN
REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS
Beauty, More Than Skin Deep The L’Oréal Women in Science Fellowship Luncheon was recently held at the Russell Senate Office Building in Washington, DC. The program honors women scientists pursuing their post-doctoral degrees and helps to further their research with a $60,000 grant. L’Oréal teamed up with the American Association of Advancement of Science (AAAS) to select five fellows this year out of a pool of more than 200 applicants. This program is especially important to help raise awareness for the lack of women in the fields of science and math. “It is an honor to recognize women in a field dominated by men,” noted Congressman Rush Holt during the ceremony.
Dr. Tijana Ivanovic is examining why viruses wreak so much destruction. By creating a custom Total Internal Reflection Fluorescence microscope, Dr. Ivanovic studies how individual virus particles fuse with the cells they invade. She is working to discover if viruses can be attacked during the most vulnerable stage of the fusion process. Dr. R. Blythe Towal is working to understand how biological systems gather information to help build better robots. This research will focus on how humans gather visual information and perceive the world by studying their eye movements in response to their real life surroundings. This information will be used to develop algorithms so robots can gather data more efficiently for humans. With over 100 attendees and noted dignitaries such as Senator Kay Bailey Hutchinson and Congresswoman Eddie Bernice Johnson, the memorable event emphasized the great contribution of women in science and math.
Wonderstruck Taylor Swift, Wonderful For Fans Taylor Swift shared her magic once again with fans on October 13. Ms. Swift launched her debut fragrance Wonderstruck Taylor Swift, partnering with Elizabeth Arden, at Macy’s/Herald Square in New York City. The launch was streamed live on Ms. Swift’s Facebook page and at ten select Macy’s stores throughout the United States, including Macy’s/Tysons Corner in McLean, Virginia.
The 2011 L’Oréal Women in Science Fellowship honorees with Frédéric Rozé of L’Oréal USA
This year’s honorees: Dr. Trish Andrews conducts research that involves combining organic chromophores, or color molecules, that surround human beings with optoelectronic material, or quantum dots, to develop solar cells that will effortlessly collect light and transfer it to electricity. Dr. Karlin Bark works on Haptic Feedback that is used with certain stroke victims to retrain their motor pathways and lost function in the upper body and arms. Dr. Bark utilizes rehabilitation exercises, usually delivered through a therapist, to create a low-cost electronic program patients can do from home. Dr. Sasha Devore strives to help a damaged brain find a new way of working. This involves the study of large ensembles of neurons in behaving animals that form feedback pathways to sensory areas. It is anticipated that this information will lead to improved therapeutic interventions to help people with brain injuries regain what they thought to be forever lost. DECEMBER 2011 /
At a live stream of the Taylor Swift PA at Macy’s/Herald Square, candy and makeovers celebrated the launch of Wonderstruck Taylor Swift at Macy’s/Tysons Corner in Virginia.
Macy’s/Tysons Corner turned this event into a fantasy for fans with makeovers from Elizabeth Arden, a Taylor Swift-inspired candy bar, photo booth, DJ, refreshments and manicures. Customers who purchased the magical package of Wonderstruck also received a branded shopping bag and a copy of a limited-edition, autographed Wonderstruck commemorative ad. BF
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CAPITOLCHIC
by Bernadette Lacy
REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS
HOUSTONCOUNTERPOINTS
On a recent fall evening, customers at the Palais Royal at Meyerland Plaza were greeted with beautiful calla lilies, a table full of gift bags, a jazz band and waiters offering bite-sized brownies, wine and water. This was the “Grand Reveal,” a party to unveil and celebrate the 50 year-old store’s first renovation in half a century. Ceilings were lifted, lights added, a marble floor installed and the cosmetics department was upgraded to a modern, bright and inviting place to shop.
Stage Stores’ Jon Gunnerson, Christine Johnston (c.), Sandy Hoodwin (2nd r.) and Andy Hall (r.) with Give Back Brands’ Mark Falthzik, Nancy Winograd and Debbie Murtha
Stage Stores’ Joan Bolingbroke and Steven Hunter (r.) with Coty Prestige’s Massoomeh Mullen and Dominic Pisani with Ms. Johnston and Mr. Hall
“It is a great opportunity to showcase our skills to our customer and vendor communities,” said Andy Hall, President and CEO of Stage Stores, parent company of Palais Royal. “There is a lot of fun and excitement, with free gifts, prizes, a fashion show and more. Oh, and of course, value. We always provide value.” Mr. Hall expects the renovation will increase traffic significantly to not only cosmetics, but also to shoes, juniors, accessories and sportswear. “Overall, we expect to see double-digit increases for the store.”
Along with the renovated space, Palais Royal w e l c o m e d t wo n e w additions to the cosmetics department with Estée Lauder and Clinique. “They are the most requested brands from our current custom- Parlux Fragrances’ Lynn Robinson, ers, and they will bring Bryan Shaw and Pam Christian show in a new customer to off the latest products. Meyerland,” said Christine Johnston, Senior Vice President and General Merchandise Manager of Cosmetics/Fragrances for Stage Stores. “Customers respond to newness, animation and Estée Lauder’s Bernard Ciszewski (2nd value. Estée Lauder and l.) with Stage Stores’ Jackie Hubert, Ms. Johnston and Mr. Hall Clinique will certainly deliver with unique product innovations, strategies and services that our customers desire.” Another exciting feature in the cosmetics department is the Beauty Bar, recently expanded with new brands and updated with lighting. The two assisted, self-select gondolas have been experiencing double-digit growth. “With our success in Beauty Bar, we branched out and added a Beauty Bar Express fixture near our number-one register in all of our 800-plus doors,” said Ms. Johnston. Expanded square footage in the cosmetics department now allows room for toiletries, and men’s fragrances are now displayed in their own exclusive space. “We are filling an underserved consumer in small-market America by offering quality, well-recognized cosmetics brands. This is consistent with our vision for the entire store,” said Ms. Johnston. “As a company, we operate with a lot of heart, which really resonates with our small-town consumer base.” We are proud of our Columnist Mary Sit for completing the Tour de Pink bicycle race, which supports breast cancer awareness with the Pink Ribbons Project. The race took place on September 17 in Houston beginning at Prairie View A & M University.
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REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS
by Mary Sit
REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS
Taylor Swift Releases Wonderstruck
During the event, attendees were photographed next to a life-size Taylor Swift ad and were given a framed, keepsake photo to remember the night. Those who purchased $113.00 or more of Wonderstruck received an autographed picture of Ms. Swift. Based on the success of her music career thus far, having sold over 20 million albums and 34.3 million singles worldwide since March 2011, it is anticipated that the launch of Wonderstruck will be a top-selling scent.
The Oprah Effect The Taylor Swift Wonderstruck team at Macy’s/Lenox Square
Taylor Swift, the multi-talented Singer/Songwriter, has recently expanded her dossier by entering into the celebrity fragrance market. Ms. Swift launched Wonderstruck with a personal appearance at Macy’s/Herald Square in New York City on October 13, while loyal fans flocked to Macy’s stores across the country to see her live-streamed PA. At the Macy’s/Lenox Square store in Atlanta, 150 fans gathered to enjoy the event. To create an even more enticing evening, makeovers by Elizabeth Arden, feather hair applications from Regis Salons, glitter tatElizabeth Arden’s Nakita Martin and toos, popcorn and cotton Biance Neagoie candy were offered to customers. “It’s really amazing how Taylor Swift appeals to all ages, from 6- to 60-year-olds,” said Nakita Martin, Fragrance Representative for Elizabeth Arden.
Macy’s/Lenox Square’s Lisa Sagneri (2nd r.) with Elizabeth Arden’s Gena Lavign, Lisa Barranca and Heather Lynch DECEMBER 2011 /
The line to attend the Oprah Winfrey event, “O, You!” at the Georgia World Congress Center in Atlanta, snaked around the building on October 15. The attendees were excited to see Ms. Winfrey, and came from as far as California for the day-long event. Ms. Winfrey and her associates, which included Gayle King, Lisa Ling, Suze Orman, Dr. Mehmet Oz, Bob Greene, Martha Beck, Nate Berkus, Donna Brazile, Peter Walsh and Eve La Rue, offered formal seminars throughout the day. The highlight was a special session with Ms. Winfrey, who inspired the attendees with a candid discussion of her own personal journey and the next chapter in her life.
Oprah Winfrey (c.) joins the speakers of the “O, You!” event including Suze Orman (6thr.), Mehmet Oz (3rd l.), Gayle King (5th l.) and Nate Berkus (6th l.).
Over a dozen sponsors, including L’Oréal Paris, helped support the event. Celebrating the 40th anniversary of its iconic phrase “Because You’re Worth It,” L’Oréal Paris had over two dozen stations offering hair and makeup touch-ups. A beauty bar, which offered free samples, was also a huge success. After makeovers, guests were able to purchase products at the pop-up L’Oréal Paris boutique. Whether renewed positive vibes came from the makeovers or from the seminars, it was an insightful day in which attendees learned about, as Ms. Winfrey often says, “living your best life.” BF 46
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REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS
ATLANTA PEACH
by Toni M. Lublin
FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS
FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS
MEMO FROM
ITALY
by Simona Barello
Be it Fëdor Dostoevsky at The Literary Café in St. Petersburg, Franz Kafka at Café Louvre in Prague, Simone de Beauvoir at Café Flore in Paris or Ernest Hemingway at Caffé Greco in Rome, the figure of novelists writing in urban spaces has become part of our contemporary imagery. The writer represents the quintessence of creativity, and that’s what inspired Romano Ricci for the launch of Romantina, his latest creation for Juliette Has a Gun. On SepRomantina from Juliette Has tember 12, Mr. Ricci presented a Gun the fragrance in Milan and its accompanying “olfactory novel,” laid out as a book recalling the publications of the famous French publishing house of Gallimard. The creator explains in the preface that “Romantina is a modern novel, as light as a chance encounter at a café corner in Rome.” The novel is dedicated “To the memory of this instant.” It’s the first floral fragrance in the Juliette Has a Gun gamut and depicts a love story for Juliette, whose strong personality comes forth through a woody touch of patchouli, emerging from the gentleness of white flowers.
Juliette Has a Gun’s Romano Ricci presents his new fragrance, Romantina. DECEMBER 2011 /
Mr. Ricci speaks with attendees about his latest scent.
Christophe Cervasel Co-Founder of Atelier Cologne, also presented his collection of fragrances that have been carefully imagined and blended by his maison for different people and for various occasions. From Orange Sanguine, created by Ralf Schwieger for social butterflies, to Cécile Hua’s Grand Néroli for young women on their first date to Jérôme Epinette’s Trèfle Pur for gamblers in need of luck—all of the fragrances are highly evocative. Vegetal soap bars are also available in sophisticated handmade packages with a leather strap.
Atelier Cologne’s Christophe Cervasel showcases his latest scents.
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A Walk On The Line Side...With COTY PRESTIGE (continued from page 24) 2:30 P.M. Neiman Marcus Short Hills, New Jersey
Ms. LaSala-Coll, Ms. Huang, Coty Prestige’s Françoise Mariez and Mr. Taylor
Lord & Taylor’s David Clements with Ms. Zinn-Moore, Ms. LaSala-Coll and Mr. Taylor
Coty Prestige’s Retail Manager, has been instrumental in the growth at Lord &Taylor NYC. “She has been working very closely with the team, including training them on all brands, showing them how to maximize their business with pre-sell for all major events and keeping them focused on our key brands. In particular, take Balenciaga, one of our most luxurious designer houses; look at the beautiful presentation here in the caseline.” Ms. LaSalaColl highlights the arches that are featured consistently in every one of Balenciaga Paris’ caselines. “The arches showcase the fragrance bottles in a way that relates back to the heritage of the designer and the fashion house. It is actually inspired by the historic fashion showroom address at 10 avenue George V.” Barbara Zinn-Moore, Senior Vice President/GMM for Fragrances and Cosmetics, affirmed “Our Coty Prestige business and partnership could not be better. They are terrific partners, and we truly love to do business with them.” Sharing launch news of Coty Prestige’s fragrances at Lord & Taylor, Ms. Zinn-Moore reported, “We are very excited that Prada Candy hit in November. It has been the #1 brand since it came in.”
Ms. LaSala-Coll, Mr. Taylor, Ms. Case and Coty Prestige’s Christina (Tina) Armetta at the holiday display in Short Hills Mall
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Ms. LaSala-Coll, Neiman Marcus’ Jonathan Espiritu, Lisa Duffy and Bunny Johnson with Mr. Taylor, Ms. Case and Ms. Armetta
Ms. Case, Coty Prestige’s Corrine Degrazio, Jean-Steals-Payne, Linda Zielke, Sandye Eveillord, Mr. Espiritu and Ms. Armetta at the Prada Candy display
Ms. LaSala-Coll explained, “Specialty Stores here at Coty Prestige consist of Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Lord & Taylor, Barneys New York and Henri Bendel.” She disclosed that Coty Prestige has three Market Managers across the country—East, West and Central. “Our Retail Managers report directly to them. In addition to driving retail, the Retail Managers conduct all of the trainings for our brands in Coty Prestige, as well as, for PUIG US. Leah Dean, Manager of Education and Retail Sales Development for PUIG US, assists the Retail Managers with training of the teams in-store.” 48
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Coty Prestige’s Alicia Case, Market Manager, East Coast, added, “Along with providing trainings in each door for all of the stores in the Specialty Division, they must drive retail, hire the in-store support and negotiate events. They are the driving force out in the stores. They have a tremendous job, and they execute it perfectly.” Ms. Case had special praise for Coty Prestige’s Retail Manager, Christina (Tina) Armetta, “who does a fantastic job in the Short Hills Mall where she is responsible for four doors—Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale’s. The four doors have very different needs, and she keeps it all in balance.”
Ms. Huang maintains, “Coty Prestige represents the DNA of each of our Designer brands and positions them in the best possible space and location within each retailer. That drives aspiration and ultimately, a consumer purchase.”
3:30 P.M. Bloomingdale’s
3:00 P.M. Saks Fifth Avenue
Mr. Taylor and Ms. Huang with Saks Fifth Avenue’s Gary Blender
Ms. Case and Ms. Armetta (2nd r.) with Bloomingdale’s Judi Nicolich (rear), Debi Mantinelli, Alicia Fong, Sheri Barraco, Margaret Fiore and Coty Prestige’s Mary Toto
Ms. LaSala-Coll, Ms. Armetta, Ms. Toto and Ms. Case at the display for Bottega Veneta’s gift set and GWP Mr. Blender, Saks Fifth Avenue’s Danielle Selip, Ms. LaSala-Coll and Mr. Taylor
Ms. LaSala-Coll, Ms. Case, Ms. Armetta and Coty Prestige’s Elaine Shapiro with Saks’ Stephen Ratigan and Ms. Selip at the Love, Chloé display
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“Coty Prestige has learned to reach out and educate our customers,” Mr. Taylor reported. “In many of our stores, our Retail Managers bring consumers together and hold educational seminars to give the history and background of a brand and its fragrances. They make the customers feel comfortable with scents’ ingredients. It really works to a very strong benefit for us, because the customers feel a partnership in the same way they would with color and treatment.” “We have charity festivals that work very well,” he continued. “We do special programs to build client loyalty, like mailings to our best customers to preview a new brand before it launches. We have the CRM program, our loyalty club, which is a big part of building the business and bringing back the romance to fragrance.” BF
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on the avenue (continued from page 34)
Glamour held the 21st edition of its Women Of The Year (WOTY) Awards on November 7 at Carnegie Hall in New York City. Cindi Leive, Editor in Chief, stated that the winners of this award all share a common approach to achieving greatness. “Each woman visualizes her success, expresses her emotions and knows that you don’t need to be a president or a princess to make a difference in the world.” The night was filled with tears, cheers and laughter as this year’s honorees accepted their awards. The 2011 WOTY include: Jennifer Lopez, Esraa Abdel Fattah, Chelsea Handler, Tory Burch, Gabrielle Giffords, Arianna Huffington, Lea Michele, Withelma “T” Ortiz-Macy, Gloria Steinem, Cindy Sherman and Laura Bush with her daughters, Barbara Bush and Jenna Bush Hager.
Pop Your Cork Adds An Element Of Sweetness
Edelman, Paige Murray of Sephora, Alexis Rodriguez of Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, Judy Sage of Teen Vogue and Jody Weiss of Cosmetics Peacekeeper Cause-Metics that focused on effectively maintaining business relationships.
30 Years Of Shape Shape magazine celebrated its 30 th anniversary at the IAC Building in New York City on October 26 with a night packed with cocktails, hors d’oeuvres and a surprise musical performance by JoJo. The evening’s guest of honor, Jane Fonda, was Dr. Mehmet Oz and Shape’s presented with Shape’s Tara Kraft Lifetime Achievement Award by the magazine’s November cover stars, Dr. Mehmet Oz and his wife Lisa.
Natural Beauty
Richart USA’s Benjamin Auzimour, Takasago’s Patricia Choux and Best Cellars’ Joshua Wesson with City Winery’s Andres Barrera, Mane’s Vincent Kuczinski and Terry Molnar of The Fragrance Foundation
The Fragrance Foundation’s Associate Board hosted the latest edition of its Pop Your Cork series at City Winery in New York City on October 18. The evening featured a four-course tasting menu prepared by the restaurant’s Executive Chef, Andres Barrera, with the sweet addition of chocolate into its customary pairing of fragrance, food and wine. Fragrance accords were developed specially for the evening by Patricia Choux of Takasago and Vincent Kuczinski of Mane.
On October 19, Natural Health held a cocktail reception honoring the recipients of the 7th annual Natural Health Beauty Awards at the Gramercy Park Hotel in New York City. This year, 582 products were Natural Health’s Peg Moline and submitted and voted on by Melissa Foss 1,300 Natural Health readers online for the final selection of 25 winners.
Leipman-Yale’s Career Path
CEW’s Young Executives Decode Business Relationships Edelman’s Theresa McDonnell, Sephora’s Paige Murray and Alexis Rodriguez of Bobbi Brown Cosmetics join Teen Vogue’s Judy Sage and Jody Weiss of Cosmetics Peacekeeper Cause-Metics.
On November 2, Cosmetic Executive Women hosted a Young Executive Cocktails and Connections event at the Union Square Ballroom in New York City. The evening featured a conversation with Theresa McDonnell of DECEMBER 2011 /
Arcade Marketing’s Debra Leipman-Yale with The Fragrance Foundation’s Rochelle Bloom
Ms. Leipman-Yale (c.) with The Fragrance Foundation’s Mary Ellen Lapsansky and Terry Molnar
The Fragrance Foundation’s Insiders’ Breakfast was held on November 3 at Manhattan’s Laboratory Institute of Merchandising. It featured Arcade Marketing’s President Debra Leipman-Yale who spoke to members about how she developed her career and what led to her current position.
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TF At BG
Tom Ford with Tom Ford Beauty’s Caroline Geerlings and The Estée Lauder Companies’ John Demsey
LGFB Workshop T h e To m F o r d Beauty cosmetics collection was launched at N e w York City’s Bergdorf Goodman on November 1 in the Women’s Store on the Beauty Level.
Bar At Sephora Bar Refaeli holds her photo.
ICMAD’s Young Designer Winners
Ms. Refaeli greets a customer and his son.
Ms. Refaeli (5th r.) with the Cast Members at Sephora Fifth Avenue
Ms. Refaeli (c.) with P&G Prestige’s Dominick Gigante and Gina Bodino
The Personal Care Products Council Foundation and Style for Hire, CoFounded by Stacy London, launched a new personal Cancer patients Ebony O’Neal, Nicky Edrich (3rd r.) and Tracy Pantahos (r.) join Stacy London styling component and LGFB’s Louanne Roark with Carmindy. into Look Good… Feel Better (LGFB) workshops. Ms. London, with Makeup Artist Carmindy and Hair Stylist Linda Whitehurst, offer tips in a live streaming of a “virtual” workshop via the LGFB Web site.
Especially Escada launched exclusively at Sephora, and the new fragrance from the House of Escada was celebrated on October 20 at Sephora Fifth Avenue. Supermodel Bar Refaeli greeted customers and signed her head shot.
Three students studying package design were the winners of the Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers & D i s t r i b u t o r s Bare Escentuals’ Leslie Blodgett and ICMAD’s A s s o c i a t i o n Pamela Busiek congratulate Young Designer (ICMAD) Young winners Irina Shvarts, Chad Lowe and Cheuk Lau. Designers competition. The winners were feted at a dinner in Manhattan’s 24 5th Avenue. The keynote speaker was Bare Escentuals’ Executive Chairman, Leslie Blodgett.
Self Awards LOFT’s Deborah Cavanagh, Self’s Laura McEwen and L’Oréal Paris’ Nashelly Messsina, Nathalie Kristo and Kristen Comings (r.) with Jennifer Hudson
Happy 40th Birthday Maybelline New York celebrated the 40 th birthday of Great Lash mascara and the debut of PMc Magazine at Manhattan’s Dream D ow n t ow n H o t e l ’s PH-D Rooftop Lounge.
The 4th annual Women Doing Good Awards were hosted by Self’s Editor-in-Chief Lucy Danzinger and Vice President/ Publisher Laura McEwen at the IAC Building in New York City on September 14. L’Oréal Paris presented the event.
Avon Awards Gala
PMc Magazine’s Patrick McMullan and Maybelline New York’s Spokesmodel Jessica White with Phillip Bloch
For Its Own BeneFit The BeneFit Boutique SoHo, which opened on September 27, is the flagship store for the brand. Crystal Renn with BeneFit’s Maggie Ford Danielson at the opening party for the new BeneFit Boutique SoHo DECEMBER 2011 /
Ashley Greene, Natasha Bedingfield, Fergie and Delta Goodrem on the red carpet at the Avon gala
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On November 2, the Avon Foundation for Women Global Voices for Change Awards gala was held at Manhattan’s Marriot Marquis. The event, honoring global champions working to end breast cancer and domestic violence, raised more than $2.3 million. BF
MOVING FORWARD WITH CLINIQUE AT CEW WOMEN IN BEAUTY SERIES (continued from page 37)
Shape’s Diane Newman with Ms. Jacobson
141 Cosmetics’ Dennis Tracz and Elizabeth Maxwell with Virginia Bonofiglio of FIT
ENV Consulting’s Elaine Gizler with Hautelook’s Paula Scandone and Jessica Nguyen
Givaudan’s Karen Flinn and Cosimo Policastro with The Estée Lauder Companies’ Karyn Khoury
While addressing the specific concerns and needs of one culture, many new products have gone on to become worldwide successes. Ms. Landau noted that the launch of Age Defense BB Cream SPF 30, a merger of makeup with treatment benefits, was originally created for the Asian market but has since become a global sensation. The panel agreed that innovation must stem from all components of the company—from product launches to customer service. Clinique’s newlyestablished ‘Service As You Like It’ approach allows Beauty Consultants to know when their assistance is needed, changing the traditional dialogue between customers and Consultants. The discussion concluded with a reference to the late Steve Jobs, CoFounder of Apple Inc. Ms. Greene stated that Mr. Jobs’ familiar words of wisdom, “Stay hungry, stay foolish,” have guided the Clinique team to strive for success and maintain the company’s position as a worldwide leader in product innovation.
EYE’s Mary McCarty with Sean John Fragrances’ Diana Espino and Kim-Van Dang of KVD NYC
Givaudan’s Jason Kakoyiannis and Martha Basanta
Macy’s Nancy Schmidt with Chrysallis’ Jill Scalamandre
Clinique’s Eileen Keenaghan with Origins Beth Spruance and Jane Lauder
Cosmopolitan’s Karen Deutsch, Donna Kalajian Lagani and Sue Katzen
Nordstrom’s Debbi Hartley-Triesch with M·A·C’s Nick Gavrelis and Jennifer Balbier
DECEMBER 2011 /
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BF
THE FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION’S 2011 STATE OF THE INDUSTRY (continued from page 39)
Despite a multitude of apps providing instantaneous access to information, Mr. Edwards said that consumers still experience confusion when purchasing fragrances. He revealed that in 2011, there were 1,200 additions to the fragrance market, compared to just 76 new launches in 1991. With this hearty number of introductions, he stated that there is no doubt uncertainty exists for the average consumer. It is only further confounded by the various—and largely inconsistent—terminologies used to describe scent. Mr. Edwards proposed that retailers must unite together to create a common language that will educate customers and help them discover, and purchase, their ideal fragrance.
Coty’s Ruth Sutcliffe (2nd l.) with Arcade Marketing’s Eric Dalbo, Debra LeipmanYale and Larry Berman
Symrise’s Jessica Wolf with Mark Knitowski of Victoria’s Secret Beauty
Arcade Marketing’s David Teets with Coty’s Laurie Welsh, Givaudan’s Rose Eckert and Ms. Sutcliffe
IFF’s Julianne Pruett and Lorenzo Cavallaro (r.) with Dana Kline of Fusion Brands
SGD’s Peter Acerra and Schéhérazade Chamlou with Art Spiro of Elizabeth Arden
Gaia One’s Elizabeth Gaynes and Nick Graham (r.) with Cosimo Policastro of Givaudan
While there has been an uptick in the personal care market, unemployment rates and general financial insecurity do not lend themselves well for consumer spending, affirmed Ms. Franco. The current economic environment continues to suppress consumer confidence, and looking ahead, she remained apprehensive. As consumers are dipping into their savings for purchasing the necessities, little room is left for discretionary spending. “We see low confidence levels with consumers. With affordable luxuries in the fragrance and beauty categories, there is a clash between desire and ability to spend.” However, she acknowledged, “incentives and creative discounting will get consumers in-store and online to purchasing. Customers will spend extra if they’re enticed.” BF DECEMBER 2011 /
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Scentsory Perceptions
(continued from page 41)
The sweet and quince flower and The h playful, l f l flirty, fl d sexy juice opens on a top note off chilled h ll d lychee, l h fl d kiwi. k h middle ddl note of pink cupcake accord, white jasmine flower and beach flower blends to a base of woods, seaside driftwood and sugared musk. The fragrance comes in a 3.3 oz. size for $45.00 and is now available at Perfumania, perfumania.com and on HSN.
Fragrant Beadwork Lisa Hoffman, Founder of Lisa Hoffman Beauty, has incorporated her concept of around-the-clock scent in her newest creation, scent-infused jewelry featuring her fine fragrances. The Fragrance Jewelry collection includes earrings, pendants and bracelets, and each has a round charm that encases spherical wood beads. Their proprietary delivery system slowly releases perfume as the beads are exposed to air. A pair of Victorian-era earrings given to Lisa by her husband inspired the round charm that hangs from each piece of jewelry. The 14-karat gold, rose Lisa Hoffman Beauty Fragrance Jewelry gold, plated sterling silver and bronze filigreed charms (depending on the offers the only scents you can take off. scent held within) snap open to receive the eco-friendly, fragrance wood bead delivery system. The beads are made in the US with Lisa Hoffman Beauty fragrances and fine wood flour from organic conifer trees grown in sustainable and replenished tree farms and forests. Their round structure, combined with a proprietary scenting method, maximizes scent retention and delivers maximum levels of fragrance. After the fragrance is depleted—from one to two weeks—the charm is opened to be refilled with a new cache of beads. Each piece of jewelry comes with a jar containing Eco-friendly enough scented beads for six refills, which equal a bottle of fragrance. fragrance wood Ms. Hoffman offers five fragrances in strengths that range bead delivery system to fill the cases from Morning, Daytime, Evening and Bedtime. The scents are of each piece of the Lisa Hoffman Beauty Fragrance Jewelry collection Tuscan Fig, Tunisian Neroli, Japanese Agarwood, French Clary Sage and Madagascar Orchid. Customers can select these fragrances in presentations of Bracelets, Necklaces or Earrings, which are each priced at $65.00. The Lisa Hoffman Bath and Body line features products scented with Madagascar Orchid or Japanese Agarwood. The Japanese Agarwood collection includes 2.5 oz. and 8 oz. sizes of Body Wash at $16.00 and $28.00 respectively as well as 2.5 oz. and 8 oz. sizes of Body Lotion at $16.00 and $34.00 respectively. Madagascar Orchid Moisturizing Body Cleanse in 2.5 oz. or 8 oz. are $16.00 and $30.00 respectively along with Body Butter in 2.5 oz. and 8 oz. at $16.00 and $36.00 respectively. Lisa Hoffman, Founder of The Lisa Hoffman Beauty Fragrance Jewelry will be available in February on HSN and now Lisa Hoffman Beauty at lisahoffmanbeauty.com along with the Bath and Body line.
Architecture Of Scent Carlos Huber, an international Architect specializing in the design of commercial spaces, pursued his love of perfumery with the development of the Arquiste collection. Mr. Huber worked with Givaudan Perfumers Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Yann Vasnier to formulate the six scents in the Arquiste line. The Arquiste collection consists of Fleur de Louis, a woody floral; Infanta en flor, a floral, The Arquiste collection of fragrances Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Yann musky amber; Anima Dulcis, a Baroque Givaudan’s Vasnier (r.) with Arquiste’s Carlos Huber gourmand; Aleksandr, an ambery leather; L’Etrog, a citrus chypre and flor y canto, an opulent white floral. According to Mr. Huber, the fragrances “transport us to another place in time.” Arquiste scents range in price from $165.00 to $175.00 and are now at Barneys New York stores and at The Webster in Miami, Florida. BF DECEMBER 2011 /
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WORLD OF SCENT
(continued from page 36)
the DNA of our company—the nautical world of GANT.” Mr. Wulff commented on the extremely professional people he worked with at GANT in the development of the fragrance. “After meeting with Susannah [Wendt, Director of Licensing at GANT AB], in Stockholm about the idea of a GANT fragrance, I brought it back to Jérôme with whom I worked on the juice.”
Junenoire Mitchell
THEBEAUTYBIZ
THEBEAUTYBIZ
EXPLORING THE
GANT FRAGRANCE GOES GLOBAL
IFF’s Arnaud Montet, Le Labo’s Fabrice Penot, ICONOfly’s Olivia Bransbourg and Columbia University’s Dr. Stuart Firestein discuss the mysteries of fragrance with W’s Jane Larkworthy.
I
GANT’s Regent Street window in London features GANT fragrance for men.
“We based this signature fragrance of GANT on the history of the brand. It suggests sailing yachts, with the freshness of the ocean in its marine notes as well as the combination of dark and light woods and a suede accord.” “I also had the pleasure of working with Pierre The GANT flagship store in Stockholm presents [Dinand] again, GANT fragrance for men. whom I have known since I was 17 years old. Everything has been so easy,” he continued, “and 18 months after our first discussions about the fragrance, it is here in-store. GANT has done a fantastic job.” BF
DECEMBER 2011 /
nternational Flavors & Fragrances (IFF), in partnership with French Institute Alliance Française, held a panel discussion entitled “The Power of Fragrance” on November 10 in New York City. The sold-out event explored the ways in which the sense of smell affects how we perceive the world and the cultural impacts of scent. The panel was moderated by Jane Larkworthy, Beauty Director of W, and featured Olivia Bransbourg, Founder of ICONOfly; Dr. Stuart Firestein, Chair of Columbia University’s Department of Biological Sciences; Fabrice Penot, Co-Founder of Le Labo and Arnaud Montet, Global Director of Consumer Science at IFF. Though human beings all smell in the same way, perception of scent is cultural. “We all receive the same information, but as soon as scent enters the nose, it becomes an individual experience,” said Mr. Montet. Panelists agreed that a preference for scent is largely based on past experiences. A video with interviews from various members of the fragrance industry, created by Ms. Bransbourg, revealed that one third of the participants were partial to scents associated with their mothers. The speakers affirmed that selecting a fragrance is a highly individual task, but viewpoints on the way consumers should decide on a personal scent varied. “Fragrance today is an identity. It is about ‘Who am I? Who do I want to be?’” stated Mr. Montet. “A fragrance is an introduction to someone’s personality and not only the actual scent, but also the marketing surrounding a fragrance.” Mr. Penot had a differing standpoint, asserting consumers must disregard marketing campaigns entirely and trust their intuition when choosing a perfume. While panelists were in agreement that scent subconsciously plays a large role in attraction and finding a mate, Dr. Firestein presented a negative side to scent when he stated that odors people perceive as “off” are often difficult to overlook. “Could you learn to love a scent that you detest?” asked Ms. Larkworthy. Much to the amusement of the audience, Dr. Firestein quipped, “There would have to be a big reward.” BF
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FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS
PARIS by Sarah Colton
For The Ultra-Glam Stars Of The Night For those whose imaginations soar during the evening hours, Guerlain’s ephemeral Holiday 2011 makeup collection, Belle de Nuit, promises high altitude, perhaps even heroic, drama after nightfall. The collection is inspired by the Guerlain fragrance Vol de Nuit, created in 1933—two years after Antoine de SaintExupéry, Aviator, Writer, and c l o s e f r i e n d o f Ja c q u e s Guerlain, published his novel of the same name. Heads will also be watching the night skies this holiday season as the latest heavenly body from Thierry Mugler flashes across the horizon bringing with it Angel Eau de Toilette. It is housed in a flacon shaped as a comet following closely in the path of a star. Brilliant!
SCENT TREKKERS’ ODYSSEY IN MANHATTAN (continued from page 43)
Sunday was devoted to scent-spotting in downtown New York City. The day began at the Soho Grand Hotel where the Sniffapalooza group experienced Navigations Through Scent, a Master Class presented by Molton Brown. The group then moved on to Le Labo and MiN NY before lunch at Barolo where speakers introduced their new fragrances.
Firmenich’s Jennifer Clancy with Ms. Adams and Sephora’s Allison Slater
Guerlain introduces Vol de Nuit Perfumed Shimmer Powder for Face, Body and Hair.
Arquiste’s Carlos Huber (c.) with Givaudan’s Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Yann Vasnier
Firmenich’s Amanda Lingham, Wendy Patel, Marisha McEwan, Caroline Lumpp and Ms. Clancy at The Sensorium™
Angel Eau de Toilette by Thierry Mugler
A Walk On The Wild Side Talk about pulling out all the marketing stops, the Azzaro Decibel fragrance from Clarins Fragrance Group comes complete with a microphone shaped bottle and ‘speaker bag’ to pack a mega-hertz punch. It didn’t last 10 minutes out of the box before it Hold Your Horses’ Florence danced out of my office on Villeminot with the Azzaro the shoulder of Florence Decibel ‘speaker bag’ Villeminot, drummer and singer of the Franco-American indie rock group Hold Your Horses. Thanks for the tip-off, Julian Casablancas [of The Strokes, who fronts the fragrance campaign], all of Paris is now rockin’! BF
Carlos Huber, along with Givaudan’s Perfumers Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Yann Vasnier, who developed Arquiste fragrances, told the story of their collaboration and the inspiration for the scents. The Sniffapaloozas also learned about The Sensorium™ before visiting the installation on West 14th Street. After a walk on Bleecker Street for stops at Diptyque and NARS, the group’s final destination was The Sensorium™. Firmenich, which developed The Sensorium™, partnered with Sephora to bring this project to consumers. “Firmenich and Sephora wanted to engage the consumer with The Sensorium™. We wanted to get them excited about the stories behind scent,” declared Sephora’s Allison Slater, Vice President of Retail Marketing. “The Sensorium ™ showcases the art of perfumery.” BF
BEAUTY FASHION (ISSN00057487) is published monthly by Beauty Fashion 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 U.S.A. (212) 840-8800. Fax: (212) 840-7246. Subscription: Domestic $25.00 a year. Foreign: Canada and Mexico $50.00: Air Mail-Europe and all other countries $175.00. Single copy price: $5.00 except directory issues which are $10.00. Periodical postage paid at New York and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address change to Beauty Fashion 16 East 40th Street Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 U.S.A PUBLISHER CONFIDENTIALITY POLICY The subscription lists of this publication are maintained on a confidential basis. Beauty Fashion has never marketed, sold or otherwise distributed, its subscription lists for any commercial or other purpose.
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FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS
NOTES FROM
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